Jeweller July 2012 Issue

the

Jeweller July 2012

With input from the British Jewellers’ Association

£7.50

The Voice of The Industry

Silver jewellery – hot on the heels of gold Ethical diamonds update • New NAG services

Would you like to comment?

Call us on 0207 405 0009 or visit www.thmarch.co.uk

T.H. March are Chartered Insurance Brokers – what does this mean to our clients?

In the Spring of 2011, T.H. March & Co. Limited were awarded the prestigious status of corporate Chartered Insurance Brokers. What does this mean for our clients ?

Quite simply it is a recognition of the high standards of professionalism we demonstrate and the exceptional service we deliver to our clients.

This is achieved by T.H. March having a high number of suitably qualified people at all levels throughout the company. This is supported by an extensive employee professional development programme, to meet both our business and regulatory requirements and the expectations of our clients.

By having all of the above verified by the Chartered Insurance Institute, the world’s leading professional body for insurance and financial services, you can rest assured that the advice you receive is of the highest quality and based on your own carefully researched needs.

Furthermore, when you talk to us, you can have the confidence that the person you speak to, knows about your policy and is competent to provide the right level of professional advice.

As one of less than 100 insurance brokers nationwide to achieve this sought after accreditation, we are rightly proud of the achievement and the fantastic level of effort and commitment our staff have put into looking after the needs of all our clients, large or small.

T.H. March – Chartered Insurance Brokers, a title you can trust.

Neil McFarlane ACII Chartered Insurance Broker Managing Director

Celebrating 125 years in business in 2012

Contents & Contacts |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

J U L Y

1 2

At your service

35

Introducing two new service providers for NAG members

Get set... Go for Silver

42

Due to the high price of gold, silver jewellery is now

Communiqué

4

Editor’s Letter

7

Industry News

8

NAG News

14

Member of the Month

16

Education & Training

18

IRV Review

20

BJA News

22

Jeweller Picks

28

Security

32

Improving Your Website

36

Simon Says

38

BJA Feature

41

Opinion: John Henn

54

Insurance

56

Notebook

62

Display Cabinet

64

The Last Word

66

becoming a more serious competitor, says Belinda Morris.

Diamonds – what on earth is happening?

52

Greg Valerio looks into the continuing politics that surround diamonds and the confusion that is ensuing.

Part two of this feature follows next month.

Antique Jewellery

58 The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

In ‘Greeks bearing gifts’ Amy Oliver delves into the

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

cultural significance of jewellery of Ancient Greece.

The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris

Cover Image In conjunction with Tresor Paris (UK) PLC 7 Greville Street, Hatton Garden London EC1 8PQ Tel: 020 3355 4030 Email: info@tresorparis.com www.tresorparis.com

Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk BJA Marketing & PR Manager: Lindsey Straughton lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7613 4445 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian@jewellers-online.org Publishing Enquiries/ Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Mary Brittain, John Henn, Miles Hoare, Amy Oliver, Greg Valerio

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.

The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

NAG CEO Michael Hoare asks whether newly-funded ‘town teams’ will be effective, is concerned about regeneration schemes for the East End, explains why we should be aware of local development plans and applauds the employment record of jewellery retailers.

P… P… Pick up a Portas A few weeks ago the Government announced the 12 town centres that will receive a slice of a £1.2 million budget, hereafter known as Portas Pilots. As you may recall we discussed these at our council meeting back in March this year (you can find a full report at http://nag-blog.org) and I’ve subsequently been looking at the same issue with Skillsmart At the moment it’s confirmed that town centres like Bedford to Wolverhampton will get a share of the budget to oil the wheels of the ‘town team’ groups, established to find innovative ways to re-generate the high street. I have to say it doesn’t seem a lot of money to reverse a process that has been on-going for more than a decade, but at least the will to change is there. The Local Government Minister, Grant Shapps, has also announced that there will be a second tranche of 15 recipients, and the lessons learned will be applied to these. All well and good but if, as I’ve said before, no strategic thought is given to planning – particularly sensitive out-of-town developments – then all their work might be in vain.

I have yet to hear of any NAG members who were part of a successful bid, but

4 The Jeweller July 2012

please let me know if you are on your local town centre team.

Out with the old With shop vacancy rates at a record high of 14.6 per cent, and unemployment among the 16-24 age groups standing at 22 per cent, the retail sector could do with a shot in the arm. With the Olympic village landing in its midst like a flying saucer the London borough of Newham has had more than a shot in the arm – it’s had something of an overdose of new shops and buildings.

I recently had the chance to hear from the head of Economic Development for Newham, Jane Sherwood, precisely how they plan to redevelop swathes of the East End including the Royal Docks and Canning Town. It all looked very high tech, with foreign capital funding acres of glass, steel and concrete. I hope it works because the East End needs it after generations of under investment. But I hope they don’t polish away the soul of the place. I’m not being misty eyed here, I’m thinking about sustainability.

If these developments are to last they’ve got to be built on solid cultural foundations otherwise what’s left once the foreign capital has taken its profit and gone? I’m sure it’s

tempting to sweep away the old buildings and start again; but I can’t help recalling that there were those who wanted to raze Covent Garden Market and make a fresh start. Thank goodness they didn’t, because now it’s a retail honey pot. But what makes it such are the old buildings, and the ‘heritage’, that’s what!

In development-speak, what’s planned for Newham is ‘convergence’; in other words the equalisation of standards of living across London’s population. I understand the aim, but the very word has a deadening quality to it that suggests submission to bureaucracy and targets; which is not something the East End is famed for.

Planning for success The Government published its National Planning Policy Framework (NPPF) back in March after a great deal of debate and not a little controversy over how ‘sustainability’ should be defined in the context of planning.

Proof of whether the new NPPF really will protect special places for ever, for everyone, will only come with time. What is quite clear is that those with an interest in influencing future developments in their area should pay special attention to local development plans.

Comment | Put simply a development plan is an aspect of town and country planning in the UK comprising a set of documents that set out the local authority’s policies and proposals for the development and use of land in its area. This guides and informs day-to-day decisions as to whether or not planning permission should be granted, under the system known as development control. In order to ensure that these decisions are rational and consistent, they must be considered against the development plan adopted by the authority, after public consultation and having proper regard for other material factors.

Legislation requires that decisions made should be in accordance with the development plan unless material considerations indicate otherwise. Although development plans do not have to be rigidly adhered to, they provide a firm basis for rational and consistent planning decisions.

Get Britain working Since we started our bi-annual Business Confidence Survey in February 2010 our results have shown remarkable consistency in certain areas. Expectations for employment have remained the same over the life of the study with more than 60 per cent of respondents always expressing the view that staff levels will remain the same. Perhaps this reflects the flexibility of the retail workforce, the fact that jewellers acted swiftly to trim numbers at the beginning of the recession, or the reality that a jeweller cannot operate safely below a base number of staff. Whatever the reason, the sector appears to be out of kilter with the rest of the economy.

Of a working population of about 30 million, there are 9.36 million working age people who are economically inactive for various reasons, of which 1.6 million are on Job Seekers Allowance. Tragically, almost one million are young people. There are a variety of measures in place to try and reduce this number, including: Work Clubs, sharing experience to help job searches; Work Together, volunteering to develop work skills; Work Experience, whereby the New Youth Contract guarantees a place for 16-24 year olds; Work Academies, possibly under groups of employers; and for the potential selfemployed, the New Enterprise Allowance.

But to return to my implied question, why has employment been stable in our sector? I think part of the answer lies in the fact that we have a well-trained and loyal workforce with highly developed skills and enlightened employers who have invested in training through their trade association. Initiatives notwithstanding, the programs offered by the NAG have for 65 years passed what I consider to be the acid test; business people have had a hand in their making and have been prepared to pay for them with their own money.

In this issue Simon Rainer describes the shortcomings of training within the manufacturing sector over the last decade; thankfully the same sorry story does not apply to retailers as our numbers show only too well. With approaching 1,000 annual registrations on our two JET courses alone, not to mention management investing in their own training via the EDF, the last few years have seen healthy activity. But we are not complacent, having continued to develop our offering, and talks about apprenticeship schemes are well advanced.

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“We feel the knowledge of trade and public has grown to accept silver as an established precious metal which can compete with gold in its own right.”

By the time you read this, excitement over London 2012 will be reaching fever pitch – well, from a media point of view if not among the populace – and Jubilee fervour will have taken a comfortable (less frenetic) hold over the country. I hope that in some way the whole joyful ballyhoo has had a positive effect on your business and will continue to do so throughout the coming weeks. Do gather your thoughts on this as we’ll be asking questions later – opinions will be canvassed in the near future.

As summers go, it got off to a good start (if you disregard the weather, which I’m inclined to do) thanks to The Jewellery Show London and Treasure. The former, an inaugural two-day event in a very swish home – Somerset House – had a cheerful, optimistic buzz about it,

Page 42

with visitors and exhibitors alike remarking on the top-notch glamour of it all. How much hard business was done hasn’t been recorded – to date at least – but new friends and contacts were made… which is always a good thing.

It’s also been a good summer, so far, for a couple of gents on Jersey who (after decades of searching) finally struck around £10 million worth of Celtic silver coins. They’re a bit corroded at the moment (the coins, not the gents), but after a spot of TLC and a dab of Duraglit (other, more appropriate, cleaners are available) they should make for a very bright, shiny and significant hoard. Which links, rather lamely I’ll admit, to this issue’s main feature… a report on silver jewellery (p42). While the cost of the precious metal has been a bit up and down since the beginning of the year (and thankfully more down than up recently) silver is proving to be something of a godsend given the price of gold…

“…the mining and manufacturing countries are dependent on the consumer perception of the diamond as a worthwhile and untainted product.”

Also in this issue we welcome Pravin Prattni who has just taken up his role as NAG chairman – a report of the 2012 AGM (held, rather amazingly, at Lords) appears in our news section (p14). Pravin is also the subject of Last Word this month (p66), so if you would like a handy heads-up on the much-esteemed gentleman, now’s your chance. And remember, if you fancy getting a load off your chest via our back page (or the Opinion page perhaps) you only have to ask.

Have a warm, sunny and prosperous summer and roll-on IJL!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 52

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

WB Group acquires Gecko Jewellery B The Creative Jewellery Group, the parent company of the Domino, Weston Beamor and Advalorem brands, has announced the acquisition of Gecko Jewellery.

In recent years WB The Creative Jewellery Group has established itself as a major European manufacturing and design house in the bespoke, 18ct gold and platinum precious jewellery arena. Gecko Jewellery meanwhile enjoys a formidable status as a leading force in branded, fashion silver and gold jewellery and has a reputation for service which scooped it the ‘Supplier of the Year Award’ in the UK Jewellery Awards in 2010.

It is particularly well-known for its ‘Elements’ and ‘Fiorelli’ collections for women, its ‘Fred

W

Bennett’ range for men and its ‘D for Diamond’ jewellery for children.

“We see the addition of Gecko to the WB Group as being a significant step towards being able to offer jewellery retailers across Europe a complete solution to their jewellery needs. Gecko, like the WB Group, has built its business by providing great design, innovation and service and we believe there is real synergy between our companies.

Bringing them together will undoubtedly provide tremendous new opportunities for both businesses and for their customers,” says the Group’s joint chairman Patrick Fuller.

Barry Bennett and Kate Carling the founders of Gecko, along with their fellow

owner Mark Stimson, will remain with the business during the hand-over period and it is WB The Creative Jewellery Group’s intention that the company will continue to trade as a separate entity with its current management and staff. Andrew Morton, who is managing director of all the companies within WB The Creative Jewellery Group, will also become MD of Gecko Jewellery.

Bringing Gecko within WB The Creative Jewellery Group’s umbrella will make the Group a major force in the marketplace. With a total staff of around 160 and a combined turnover in excess of £32 million it is believed that it is now one of the largest and most significant jewellery businesses in the UK

Assay fights online fakes he Edinburgh Assay Office chose The Jewellery Show London to launch the world’s first consumer online assurance scheme for the jewellery industry – Assay Assured. Retailers already signed up to Assay Assured include: Links of London, Ortak, Monica Vinader and Clogau Gold. As the oldest form of consumer protection the move marks a significant moment in its history as the hallmark goes digital.

Over the last five years the online sale of fake and counterfeit jewellery has seen a sharp rise with scam sites and rogue traders on auction sites springing up faster than they can be closed down. One prominent UK jewellery brand reported successfully removing £200m of fake jewellery from sale in just 12 months. The launch of Assay Assured means that online jewellery retailers, from big brands to small independents, can prove they are accredited, adhering to a strict code of conduct centred around compliance with the Hallmarking Act and backed by the authority of the Edinburgh Assay Office.

In March 2012 UK online retail sales rose to £5.8 billion (Source: IMRG) but while more and more people shop online, trust remains one of the biggest barriers to trade with shoppers far more likely to buy from sites they know and trust rather than small independent sites or auction sites.

The Assay Assured scheme will be underpinned by a strict code of conduct for online jewellery sales, in compliance with the Hallmarking Act and also covering the sale of counterfeit branded jewellery. Before accrediting a site Assay Assured will first carry out an audit of the online retailer and its website. Only if they meet the requirements will they be asked to sign up to Assay Assured jewellery retailer’s agreement. The agreement will authorise the retailer to carry the Assay Assured jewellery retailer logo on its website. The logo will link directly to a unique secure certificate, which will confirm its authenticity. Within the certificate the consumer will be able to link to a consumer focused landing page giving details about the scheme and UK hallmarking. Consumers will be encouraged to report any queries on the code of conduct to the retailer, but then report to Assay Assured if the issue isn’t resolved.

T

8 The Jeweller July 2012

Silversmith collaborates with Aston Martin ondon silversmith Grant Macdonald has launched ‘Silver by Aston Martin’ a luxury silver and giftware collection inspired by the iconic style philosophy of the car brand.

The result is a range of handcrafted contemporary pieces such as a sterling silver flute with intricate crosshatching detail on the stem, inspired by carbon fibre, as used in the Aston Martin One-77 chassis.

Grant Macdonald, operating from one of the largest workshops in London, was the first silversmiths to win the Queen's Award for Export and has been crafting obets d’art and regalia for over 40 years, primarily for the Middle East market and the City of London livery companies.

L

Industry News |

Queen visits EW Payne

S N I P P E T S

amily-owned jewellers EW Payne played host to The Queen when she visited Bromley as part of her preparation for the Diamond Jubilee. The shop, which was established in 1899, was invited to present a gift to Her Majesty on behalf of Bromley Businesses – a Limited Edition Halcyon Day carriage clock was chosen; number 60, to represent her Diamond Jubilee. The Queen joined MD Alastair Collier and 50 of EW Payne’s VIP customers at a lunch reception to mark the occasion.

As another of the companies which has traded in the borough for many years (in this case 65 years) HS Walsh, suppliers of tools, materials and equipment, was invited to join the royal party in the Queen’s Gardens in Bromley, where Her Majesty planted a commemorative tree.

With just over a month to go until the Cornerstone London to Paris bike ride, organiser (and co-founder of the Sowetobased project) jeweller Paul Spurgeon has been generating support from the jewellery industry. Sponsorship raised from the ride, which commences on 15th August, will go towards much-needed funds for Cornerstone.

If you would like to take part or sponsor the riders, contact Paul on: info@paulspurgeon.co.uk

F

RJC update he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that over the past month the following companies have achieved certification by meeting the ethical, social and environmental standards required: Accurist Watches, Girard-Perrageaux, JeanRichard, Marjan Diamonds, Cambour SAS, Sheetal Manufacturing and Goldlake IP. The Swiss refiner Metalor Technologies has achieved certification against the new RJC Chain of Custody Standard.

The RJC has also announced that it is to collaborate with non-profit organisation Solidaridad on activities that support their shared goal of ensuring better, more transparent and accountable practices throughout the gold supply chain. This includes joining forces to encourage broader participation in RJC by companies in the Global South.

A key focus will be Solidaridad’s new pilot project that uses RJC’s Code of Practices and Chain of Custody standard as tools for improving practices at industrial gold mines. In addition, the collaboration aims to develop case studies, stakeholder presentations and evaluations that can strengthen uptake and impact of the RJC standards.

T

Diamonds for Thomas Sabo erman fashion jewellery brand Thomas Sabo has launched its first diamond jewellery collection – Sweet Diamonds. In a departure from the bolder, street-style pieces associated with the label, the new line is particularly delicate and feminine with each piece adorned with a small diamond and a hint of yellow gold.

The charm continues to be a key element of the collection – allowing customers to create their own looks – with motifs including hearts, flowers, snowflakes, star fish, crosses and keys all in sterling silver with 585 14ct yellow gold. The diamonds are Kimberley certificated round brilliants. The range is complemented by speciallydesigned pacakging – a heart-shaped box with a bow, plus satin pouch.

G

Cornerstone Paris bike ride

Maurice Lacroix sponsors diver In conjunction with the launch this summer of its first sports watch, the Pontos S, Swiss watch brand Maurice Lacroix is sponsoring free diver Sebastien Murat as he attempts the world record in his sport. The campaign was shot in the south of France with the diver, who becomes the brand ambassador for the model.

CIBJO cautionary warning CIBJO advises caution to anyone considering booking a place at a forthcoming billed conference in Shanghai. Organised by Shanghai-based Broaders, the ‘Asia Diamond Trading & Investment Summit 2012’ (25th-26th October, 2012) will be at the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Shanghai, Pudong. In a promotional prospectus which invites participants to book early in order to obtain a discount, Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO’s president, is listed as a speaker.

CIBJO has no information about the event/ organiser, but can confirm that Dr Cavalieri was never approached to be a speaker and his name is being removed.

Summer campus at GIA After an extra five-day Diamond Grading Lab class early this month, the GIA is offering further classes for summer. This will include Coloured Stone Grading (28th-30th August) and Pearl Grading (31st August). For student workroom hours and pricing or to enrol, email: gialondon@gia.edu or call the GIA on: 020 7813 4321

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Johnsons Jewellers marks major anniversary his year Warwickshire family jewellery business Johnson Jewellers celebrates its 115th anniversary with a number of events, including an in-store launch party last month and culminating in a black tie charity ball this November. Although five generations have been trading at the heart of the community in Nuneaton

T

since just before the turn of the 20th century, in fact the history of Johnsons stretches back to the 1860s, when Henry Johnson began trading as a watchmaker in Lutterworth. Sharing his knowledge and artisan skills with his son Harold, Henry began a family tradition that has continued to this day.

Future looks bright for Jewellery Quarter he Birmingham Jewellery Quarter’s business community has approved proposals for its own Business Improvement District (BID), after a large number of people voted in favour of the initiative. A BID is defined as a precise geographical area within which businesses invest collectively in local improvements and additional services.

Over 600 local businesses were asked to vote to support the initiative, which will see companies with premises with a rateable value of £10,000 and above pay an annual levy of two per cent to fund additional investment for the benefit of the whole area. The BID received an encouraging 45 per cent turnout of voters, with 80 per cent of those businesses voting ‘yes’. It is estimated that the BID levy will bring in an estimated £2million over its five-year lifespan and could be expected to lever in a similar amount from other resources.

The Jewellery Quarter BID was promoted by the Jewellery Quarter Development Trust, in partnership with Birmingham City Council.

Michael Allchin, CEO of Birmingham’s Assay Office, said: “The Assay Office has been at the heart of the Jewellery Quarter for 240 years and is a strong supporter of the BID. We believe it will help to attract new investment to re-energise the Quarter while retaining its unique heritage and world-class specialist skills. The 80 per cent vote in favour is immensely encouraging and marks the beginning of a very positive new era for the Jewellery Quarter.”

T

10 The Jeweller July 2012

New look to Houlden Group Annual Meeting his year saw a major transformation for the Houlden Group’s summer annual management & buying event, which was held last month in Horsted, East Sussex.

Around 90 suppliers exhibited over two floors in defined areas – fine jewellery, gems & diamonds, designers, branded/ fashion jewellery, gold jewellery, silver jewellery, pearls, watches, services and gift lines. The change enabled members to interact closely with suppliers at both a social and professional level. Feedback was good with members saying the event had been positive and buoyant.

One new aspect was the ‘Supplier Stadium Selling’ where invited suppliers were given the opportunity to ‘pitch’ their product to members. JSN Jewellery launched Canada Star Diamonds of Excellence, a new eco-certified diamond brand exclusively for Houlden members.

Other pitches were provided by Fossil with its portfolio of fashion watches, Domino, Bulova and Tivon.

T

HRH chooses Alexis Dove ork by British jewellery designer Alexis Dove has been picked by muliple jewellers Goldsmiths and by HRH The Prince of Wales to represent ‘The Best of British’. Selected Goldsmiths branches will feature Dove's pieces, as part of an initiative to promote design talent on the high street which launched last month and runs until the end of the year. (Other names in the line-up include Daisy Knights, Sonya Bennett and Bobby White). Meanwhile the Highgrove Estate has selected her jewellery for its shops in Tetbury, on the estate itself and online.

“Highgrove were looking for pieces that perfectly complemented the look of Highgrove Gardens and the Prince of Wales’ personal interest in nature,” says Dove whose jewellery collections are quintessentially English and inspired by nature.

W

Industry News |

Winner sees design brought to life indy Neave, the winner of Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery’s inaugural design competition has had one of her winning designs brought to life by the company’s goldsmiths and gets to keep the finished ring as part of her prize. The second-year student at University for the Creative Arts, won Kelsall’s first-ever bespoke jewellery design competition in March. The competition involved students being briefed to design a ring by an actress posing as a customer via YouTube – a first in the UK – in order to replicate as authentically as possible the process of designing bespoke jewellery in response to a brief.

As part of her prize Neave has also started a paid internship at Kelsall's studio/workshop where she will have the opportunity to learn first-hand about bespoke jewellery. The winning ring is 9ct yellow gold set in the rub over style with three pink-red ruby cabochons and also features three small ‘leaves’ of gold. “Lindy was a deserving winner; it was clear she had not only listened to the brief, but had also looked at the fictional customer’s build and style which resulted in her designing something that would appeal to her," said Kelsall. “This is at the core of good bespoke jewellery design”.

L

News from the Yorkshire Centre ollowing the AGM earlier this year, Mark Hepworth of Robert Openshaw, Cleckheaton, was elected as president of the Yorkshire Centre and has outlined his plans for the forthcoming two years. Hepworth’s first duty was to present the Hanson Rose Bowl to Robert Ogden, from Ogden of Harrogate.

The Hanson Rose Bowl, was first awarded in 1961 and was presented by the, then, West Riding branches of the NAG and the British Horological Institute. Originally it was awarded for the horology courses taken at the then Hanson Technical Institute in Bradford – which is now the Bradford Metropolitan University.

Following the closure of the horology courses the bowl was re-engraved and awarded to the Yorkshire area jewellery student who had gained the highest marks in the Preliminary examinations of what was the ‘Retail Jewellers Diploma’. The NAG’s Yorkshire Centre Committee, re-introduced this trophy for the 2004 examinations – and it is now awarded to the Yorkshire Centre candidate with the highest mark attained for the Professional Jewellers Diploma examinations, run by the NAG. Previous winners of this trophy are: Sarah Mawdsley of Hoppers, Darlington (2004); Fiona McCullough of Barbara Cattle, York (2005); Alex Johnson of Philip Stoner, Shipley (2006); Kelly Taylor of Barbara Cattle, York (2007); Sherry Loughlin of Beaverbrooks, White Rose Centre, Leeds (2008); Christopher Jackson of NG Bolton, Guiseley (2009) and Darren Lowis of Smith Bros, Rotherham (2010).

F

S N I P P E T S Treasure prize for Lestie Lee Young jewellery designer Lestie Lee, whose work has been featured in our pages as ‘a name to watch‘ won the award for Designer of the Year at Treasure last month. Her delicate, ultra-feminine, handmade pieces caught the attention of the organisers, who will give the designer a stand for free at next year’s event.

Assay Office improves website As part of its continuing commitment to customers, the London Assay Office has improved its website. All the information needed on hallmarking and other services is now much easier to access, while the Useful Downloads section has been enhanced so that advice and guidance can be printed off at a click of a button. Also on the site are informative case studies and new sections dedicated to the Assay Office’s other services such as punchmaking, laser marking and its fully accredited, independent laboratory. www.assayofficelondon.co.uk Better news from the High Street The CBI says that retailers reported a further improvement in the growth of sales volumes and orders in the year to June, although sales remained below the levels expected for the time of year. According to the CBI’s Distributive Trades Survey covering the first two weeks in June, 58 per cent of retailers reported improved sales volumes, although weak consumer confidence is still putting a brake on spending across the retail sector.

Clogau sponsors polo team Clogau has announced a three-year headline sponsorship package with the Wales Polo Team and Association. The UK governing body of Polo, the Hurlingham Polo Association, recently agreed to officially recognise the team and the formation of the Welsh Polo Association. The Prince of Wales has agreed to be the Patron of both for an initial three years.

The Voice of the Industry 11

| Industry News

QEST award for silversmiths

S N I P P E T S

wo silversmiths were presented with Queen Elizabeth Scholarships by HRH the Duke of Gloucester at an awards ceremony last month. Hazel Thorn, a jeweller and silversmith from Moray in Scotland, was presented with her £10,000 QEST award, which she will use to study for a Masters of Art in Jewellery and Silversmithing at the Edinburgh College of Art. Anthony Griffin, a diamond mounter and goldsmith from Surrey was awarded £15,000 to attend Alexandre Sidorov’s Diamond Optical Setting course in Antwerp.

The Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust (QEST) was endowed by the Royal Warrant Holders Association to advance education in modern and traditional crafts and trades in the UK. Scholarships of up to £15,000 are open to men and women of all ages and are awarded twice a year.

Hazel (22) has developed mixed metal processes for both constructing and casting vessels. Both these areas of her work have been awarded prizes by the Company of Goldsmiths. Anthony has been creating fine jewellery in platinum and gold, incorporating precious gemstones and diamonds, for the past 16 years. He has been selected to exhibit within the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Fair.

Jerry Witcomb joins Mastermelt

T

Theo Fennell’s busy summer ondon luxury jeweller Theo Fennell has had a full diary lately. On 26th June the store hosted its annual awards at the Royal College of Art, with prizes awarded to graduating students from Goldsmithing, Silversmithing and Metalwork and Jewellery. As well as cash prizes and a hand-crafted silver dish designed by Fennell, students will see their winning designs showcased in the flagship Fulham Road store.

On the same evening Theo Fennell teamed up with UK winemakers Nyetimber to provide a Diamond Reception for guests at a charity wine tasting event in aid of Starlight Children’s Foundation at the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea. Guests were invited to pledge for a glass of sparkling wine, each containing a crystal and, for one lucky winner, a diamond, to be transformed into a necklace, donated by Theo Fennell. Finally, this month sees the opening of a Theo Fennell shop in the historic Burlington Arcade, which has recently undergone a major restoration. The two-floor ‘micro-concept’ store has been created by design consultancy GP Studio and has been designed to be a ‘story-telling’ space for the jeweller. The environment will allow one-off pieces to be shown and the stories behind them demonstrated.

L

Former Brown & Newirth production manager Jerry Witcomb has joined friend and ex-colleague Gary Williams at Presman Mastermelt. Witcomb will use his extensive knowledge of production and precious metal reclamation to add value to the company’s customers both large and small.

Presman is the oldest ‘trade only’ scrap buying counter in the UK, while parent company Mastermelt Ltd specialises in precious metal reclamation in jewellery and other industries across the globe.

Argentium appoints distributor Argentium International Limited, the company behind the highly tarnish-resistant silver (which is also purer and brighter than sterling silver), has appointed Allied Gold as official distributor in the UK, to further strengthen its international network of suppliers and manufacturers. Jerry Abraham, MD of Allied Gold, which will provide Argentium grain, sheet and wire products, remarked, “We are extremely excited to be partners with Argentium International and see unique opportunities with vast potential for Argentium silver. We have used [it] within our own operation for several years and find the material has truly exceptional properties. We believe it to be unbeatable in terms of appearance and performance and our company is perfectly placed to service the growing demand. The UK is the ‘birthplace’ of Argentium silver and we therefore feel privileged to be in a position to assist in nurturing the growth of this great brand.” Visit: www.argentiumsilver.com Gemworld design ‘corner’

Thor & Wistle opens ewellery designers Kamilla Thorsen, of Dynasty, and Rachel Entwistle have collaborated to open a jewellery concept store in the heart of Shoreditch in London.

Having exhibited at various shows together, shared a studio for two years and rented a pop-up shop in 2011, the pair recognised that their two brands would work together as well as be right for the east London area that they were working in.

They explain that the shop is “a labour of love, designed with their inspirations in mind – curiosities, entomology and museums.” They both have an eye for the rare and unusual and have sourced and salvaged antiques, as well as creating bespoke pieces of furniture with upcycling in mind. The shop will also serve as a studio and a space for special customer events.

J

12 The Jeweller July 2012

Gemworld Munich is establishing a Young Designer’s Corner at the forthcoming show (26th - 28th October, 2012) and is asking current students and graduates from European jewellery design schools who received their diploma after 1st May 2009, to apply for a place. From the written applications received by 31st August – together with images of jewellery, CV and certificate of enrolment – the 15 best candidates will be selected. The best three designers will win prizes worth over €6,000. For details visit: www.gemworldmunich.com

| NAG News

Marking another innings for the NAG ords – the ‘Home of Cricket’ played host to the NAG’s 118th AGM last month. All the major players – members, board and council – arrived at the J.P. Morgan media suite for an early pre-match tea before taking their places for the chairman’s inaugural address.

First batsman Nicholas Major took to the crease to welcome attendees and to pay his respects to members, especially those lost this year. We then waved goodbye to Michael Ferraro, who is stepping down from his post at THMarch and Nicholas Major himself, who will remain on the NAG board but no longer as captain. “I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my time with the NAG and I hope you will all agree that I’ve always tried to do what was right for the Association,” he said, before reading the order of business that voted Pravin Pattni as new chairman.

The shuffling of positions took over proceedings as the current board reaffirmed

L

the roles for the future: Andrew Hinds joins the team as vice-chairman and Major commented on how Hind’s position as director of F. Hinds means the NAG now has a cross-section of independent and multiples sitting on the board, giving the Association greater scope in working with both types of organisation in the future. The present voting members then had their chance to vote in favour or against proposals set out in six motions presented by the board.

All were voted in unanimously and so concluded the business part of the day.

After luncheon in the Thomas Lord suite attendees were treated to a speech by Paralympic medal winner, Mike Brace. In this Olympic year – and at Lord’s – it was especially fitting to hear from a guest speaker who has done so much to champion sport for the disabled and who witnessed London’s winning bid announcement as part

of the team. Brace, who was blinded by a firework aged 10, set out – both in life and in his speech – to challenge assumptions about blindness and disability. Sport has provided him with what he termed “a safe environment” in which he could set himself personal challenges. Winning was important, as was gaining self-esteem, but more so was the idea of challenging stereotypes.

Brace’s speech provided an optimistic end to the day – sending guests home with a sense that if they really put their mind and effort to something, they can and will achieve it. A great lesson for all given these turbulent times. And it’s with this thought that the NAG continues to work – inspired by the experiences of others and bound by the interests of all its members.

NAG Challenge Trophy eputy chairman Frank Wood reports: For me, the Trophy day started early at Fulford Golf Club, laying out the score cards and NAG golf balls ready for the players. The night before had seen me drop off tee boards, sponsor lists, personalised menus, tombola prizes, competition prizes and champagne.

Now all I needed to concentrate on was the hard part… playing the golf!

After registration, a bacon butty and a short ‘briefing’ on the course, the day commenced.

There was furious activity on the first tee as

D

14 The Jeweller July 2012

the groups began to drive off. 18 holes later my group arrived back at the clubhouse for a fantastic afternoon tea, while I collected score cards from the finishing groups.

Although Fulford is a superb course, renowned for hosting the Benson & Hedges matches of the ’60s and ’70s with Tony Jacklin, Berhard Langer and the like, it is not an easy one; it needs concentration and will punish those who take it lightly. The scores varied from three points to a winning score of 34 points (playing to a handicap would give you a score of 36 points).

There were prizes for various sections but the main prize, the NAG Challenge Trophy, was won by Murray Thomson, a guest of Mike Hughes, the then chairman of the BJA. Every year the golfers playing for this trophy are very generous, and well over £2,000 has been raised for the Centenary Trust charity which promotes education within the

jewellery trade. The NAG is very grateful to all sponsors of the event, particularly the main sponsors, Branson Retail Systems, Clarity & Success and Laurence R Watson.

If you would like to be kept informed of all of the jewellery trade golf days email me at: golf@braithwaitesjewellers.com and your name will be added to the 150 other golfers on the database. You will be advised of the dates and venues (including the International which, in 2013, will be held in Ireland). Most of the competitions are open to the whole of the jewellery trade and their guests.

NAG News |

Carl Fabergé a private collection Shirley Mitchell FIRV recently attended the IRV’s private viewing of the latest Fabergé exhibition hosted by Wartski and sent us the following impression of her visit. artski’s staff and directors are so knowledgeable and passionate about their subjects that they draw you into an era where the finest craftsmen worked with such precision and detail to create the most amazing, lifelike sculptures, objects d’art and jewellery – all highly sought after and given as presents to those who had everything.

Since the 1970s Wartski has assisted a private English collector to source pieces for his remarkable collection, including a

W

chalcedony study of a duckling with his quizzical expression and gold feet. The collector mentions in the catalogue that he learnt to buy only those pieces he loved or “could not do without” and, therefore, has amassed one of the finest private collections in the UK, outside of the Royal Collection, and we were very honoured to see it. In fact, this was the first time the collector had seen his entire collection on display in one place and we were astounded to learn that he remembers every single piece, where he bought it and how much it cost and with a collection of over 250 pieces this is a sign of a true collector.

Kieran McCarthy, a director at Wartski, lectures on Fabergé and you can understand why – he is fascinating to listen to and has the ability to take you back to the time when members of the aristocracy developed their passion for these fine pieces. After our talk we had the opportunity to peruse at our leisure and Kieran was available to answer our questions.

NAG and IJL renew sponsorship agreement yreeta Tranfield, event director at International Jewellery London, and Michael Hoare, NAG CEO, sat down at NAG HQ in Luke Street last month to renew their sponsorship agreement. “The NAG has been one of the principle sponsors of IJL for over 20 years and we are delighted to seal our continued support,” said Hoare. “Personally I’ve been attending the show for over a decade and it just gets better every year; while some of the other European shows are bigger, design-wise IJL is streets ahead.” This year the NAG will be taking part in seminars, competitions and events throughout the duration of the September show and welcoming members old and new to its stand to talk about the wide range of services on offer – including training and management development. Between now and then there will be further announcements about exciting member benefits that are well advanced in the planning but yet to come on-stream.

S

A private collection care of Wartski, London

We then signed a visitor’s book and left a few words about our favourite piece for the collector to keep after the exhibition. Many of us were torn as to which was our favourite; for me, it has to be the little Petit Point brooch with its finely hand-pierced platinum canvas and array of specially cut gemstone ‘stitches’. Or perhaps it should be the tiny gold bonbonnière in the form of a coal scuttle with its rich strawberry red enamel over a beautifully hand-engraved gold base.

New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications David Jones (Goldsmith & Jeweller), Preston, Lancs

Affiliate Applications Sue Trewin, Hemel Hempstead Neve Jewels Ltd, Hatton Garden

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on tel: (029) 2081 3615.

New Member Applicants David L Goodson PJDip PJValDip FGA DGA, David Lloyd, Ludlow.

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

NAG Member of the Month This issue Amy Oliver speaks to Jon Weston of J J Rudell & Co which this year celebrates six decades of NAG membership.

J J Rudell is a very respected company.

When and how did the business begin?

We opened in Wolverhampton on Valentine’s Day in 1938. Mr Justin Rudell started the business with an investment of £1,000.

I still have the paperwork detailing his original stock inventory and the floor plan of the building dating back to the early 1930s – the showroom was only a sixth of the size of the one we have today! In those days we mainly traded in leather goods and added diamonds to our portfolio in the ’50s, starting with just a handful of rings. We soon established a reputation for quality and great value; the evolution process snowballed from there.

How has the business evolved over the past 60 years since joining the NAG? It has expanded considerably. Mr Justin’s son Tony Rudell, who sadly passed away last year, pioneered the expansions at Wolverhampton and in 1986 he opened our second showroom in Harborne, Birmingham. The NAG has been a very valuable tool, helping us to keep up with industry changes. Our team is better trained as a result of our association, in fact we probably boast one of the largest number of qualified NAG staff in the UK – most hold the Jewellers Diploma and many have continued to become FGAs and DGAs. You pride yourselves on excellent customer service; what makes yours stand out from that of your competitors?

I think it’s a great combination of very high standards and a friendly, knowledgeable team who genuinely enjoy looking after our discerning clientele. We take great pride in being the client’s choice when it comes to sharing their joyous occasion. We have many extra WOW factors to offer which make their visit even more pleasant – such as enjoying a drink of their choice (perhaps champagne, tea or coffee) while they browse or purchase. We firmly believe that it’s the TNTs (tiny noticeable things) that makes us stand out from the crowd.

16 The Jeweller July 2012

Another important aspect to our service is our belief that “you should do what you say you will do.” It’s very important to any business today and it’s even better to exceed your client’s expectations.

Michael Johnson – ex-footballer for Birmingham City, Derby County and Notts County – has been announced as the ambassador for J J Rudell in 2012; what does this entail and why does a jewellery business need an ambassador?

Michael is a newcomer to Rudells and as an ambassador he will mainly be involved with networking opportunities and helping to raise the company profile. With the endorsement of a local celebrity our aim is to further expand our client base and we will be working very closely with Michael who has been referred to as ‘Mr Birmingham City’, to achieve this. He’s a great local footballing legend and he will bring a high profile celebrity presence at our events planned for this year. He’s been Tweeting like crazy about us since our association began, along with Facebook activity. We have great ambitions to increase our market share in the business; Michael’s affiliation will help us accomplish this.

You hold many exhibitions and jewellery evenings at your two premises. What’s on the horizon?

We have several events planned between now and Christmas. We have two evening events scheduled for July to celebrate the refurbishment of our Wolverhampton showroom, which is due for completion

very soon, so most of our energies are being focused on this at present. It’s a huge job because apart from a new roof we have changed all the window structures, re-furbished the outside decoration, created new signage and we are totally changing the interior layout. These are very exciting times for us and there are some great opportunities out there.

And finally – what was the funniest situation you ever found yourself in with a customer?

There have been many over the years but the one situation that stands out the most is this… A gentleman client many years ago, when Gucci had just launched the ‘G’ watch, knew that his wife had left a deposit on one intending to collect it closer to Christmas. In the meantime he came in and paid the balance for her as an extra festive surprise. You can guess what happened next… When the lady came in Christmas week with her husband to collect a ring repair from me, I was praying she would not mention the watch, but sure enough she said: “Oh! I’ll take the watch with me now to wear over Christmas” and promptly produced her cheque book. The look on her husband’s face was a picture as he watched her write the cheque out. He was squirming in his seat for a few minutes keeping the conversation going about random things of no relevance, and of course I hadn’t got the watch to show to her. After what seemed an eternity, he confessed his intention to surprise her. She was so touched by his gesture and laughed about what she would have done to both him and me if he hadn’t told her! She kept saying to her husband “I wondered why you had gone into ‘ramble mode’”.

We still laugh about that one every time we get together.

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, please write in and tell us why! Send an email to: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org

STAINLESS STEEL & LEATHER

The Voice of the Industry 17

| NAG News: Education & Training

Latest Bransom Award winner announced his month we celebrate the winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award – Sarah Lumb of Pravins in Brent Cross, North London. In conjunction with Bransom Retail Systems, each month the NAG‘s Education Department enters all JET 1 assignments into a competition for ‘best project’. The award gives students the chance to be rewarded with a trip to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of their certificate at our annual student award ceremony. Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’

T

Diploma. From all the assignments received in May, Sarah‘s was the one that most impressed the external examiner.

“I am so very pleased that Sarah has won this JET 1 Bransom Award as her work was well thought out, very well presented and on time,” said Mary Garland, Sarah‘s tutor.

“She has taken her course very seriously and her assignments were a pleasure to mark. I look forward to being her tutor for JET 2 of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma Course.” The project moderator was also very complimentary about Sarah‘s project and explained why it was chosen above all others: “Sarah has produced an outstanding piece of course work for this final JET 1 assignment. It was clear she had paid great

attention to gathering all the relevant information on diamonds that was needed for such an excellent answer. The inclusion of the accepted international diamond grades, with a full explanation given to each, established the quality of this piece of JET 1 assignment work. She also made use of a variety of sources – the Learning Resources, Cally Hall’s Gemstones text book, IGI website and material from her employer’s staff training manual. Another very worthy winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Award for excellence.”

“I was shocked to have won… amazed, I didn’t think I’d get it!” said Sarah. “I was working as a sales assistant at Pravins for about a year or so before I took the course and I’ve since been promoted to supervisor.

I love jewellery, it’s a real passion of mine, so I thoroughly enjoyed the course. Firstly, it gave me a chance to learn loads of things I wouldn’t have done otherwise. Not only were the assignments interesting, but clicking around on the internet or looking through books I picked up lots of new bits of information that I would never have seen before. In that way I really started to build upon the knowledge I’d learnt in store. However, more importantly, it’s given me the confidence in my knowledge and increased my abilities as a sales person.

I’m so glad I had the opportunity to take the course, and would recommend it to anyone looking to prepare themselves for a career in the jewellery industry.”

The education department would like to congratulate Sarah on her extremely hard work, and wish her continued success in her work and future studies.

For more information on the JET courses, go to: www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1).

For information on Bransom please visit: www.bransom.co.uk

2011 Greenough Trophy winner revisited ver the years the NAG’S JET programme has, in one form or another, contributed greatly to the collective wealth of our members. Whether you’ve been a student of the JET course, or an employer who has used our courses to train your staff,

O

18 The Jeweller July 2012

or perhaps employed someone with the JET qualifications after their name, you will understand the importance of the JET brand.

This month we’ve revisited ex-student and Greenough Trophy winner, Abigail Stradling to see how she’s been faring since.

Abigail started the JET course in 2009 and in 2011 won the Greenough Trophy as the highest scoring JET 2 student. She told us then how important the JET course became in really getting her used to the customer related side of the business: “I’d done a

NAG News: Education & Training | jewellery and silversmithing course at university, so I was already well-versed in design and craft, but less so the business side. Of course we’d looked into this in our degree, but really it wasn’t emphasised too much. I’d just started as a manager so I thought it would be really useful in pushing me further. My employer encouraged me to take JET 1 and it all started there,”she said.

“A lot of JET 1 was about confidence building,” she now says. “I know a lot of exstudents say this, but it really is. JET 1 gives you an all-round confidence in both your product knowledge and sales ability. I found it served as a back-up for all types of enquiries and covered aspects of the trade that my degree didn’t touch upon – things like watches and hallmarking.

“I was given the opportunity to do JET 2 when I moved to Allum & Sidaway’s Salisbury branch. In all honesty, I probably would’ve done it anyway – but I just hadn’t had the chance,” she explains. “JET 2 was more practical than the theoretical knowledge picked up in JET 1, and really pushes you in the more technical aspects. As well as giving me confidence and knowledge, it is an industry-wide recognised qualification. It was a lot of hard work, but a great experience.

I would unhesitatingly recommend JET to anyone looking to become more confident in their job.”

As one of 2011’s ‘Kickstarter’ designers Abigail also runs her own jewellery design

Abigail Stradling receiving the Greenough Trophy from Patrick Fuller, the then president of the NAG, at the Diploma Awards ceremony held at Goldsmith’s Hall in March 2011

company and is beginning to get recognition for her jewellery. “However, there’s still a lot to do,” she says. “I’ve got a number of exciting exhibitions coming up this summer so it’s going to be a busy one.” Her work can

be seen at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park’s summer showcase until the 2nd of September, at Oxford’s ‘Art in Action’ from July 19th and also at this year’s IJL. For more information visit: www.abigailstradling.co.uk

DOES YOUR BUSINESS HAVE THE SKILLS TO DEVELOP AND GROW? The N.A.G.’s new Business Development Diploma (JETPro) will equip you with all the knowledge required to develop a complete and implementable business plan. This will make a real difference to your business and to your bottom line.

Modules include: Market Awareness Managing Financial Variables Customer Management

JETPro contains a balanced range of management and business development subjects from which you JHU LP[OLY ºWPJR HUK TP_» VY NL[ TH_PT\T ILULÄ[ by taking the full suite of modules. This course is suitable for everyone concerned in managing a jewellery business. Can you afford to miss out?

JETPro

Maximising a Team’s Potential Professional Operations Management Promoting your Business

It’s your business. Realise its potential. Contact the NAG now on: tel: 020 7613 4445 #1 or email jet@jewellers-online.org or visit www.jewellers-online.org The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG

The Voice of the Industry 19

| NAG News: IRV Review IRV Forum – nominations received

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

E

V

I

E

W

IRV forum and David Wilkins award 2012 – nominations received Following our call in April’s issue of The Jeweller for nominations for this year’s David Wilkins Award the IRV has received 20 nominations for seven individuals. he Board of Directors of the NAG may award the David Wilkins Trophy if an individual has demonstrated outstanding skill, dedication or service in respect of jewellery appraisal and valuation. This award is made on an annual basis. The nominees are: Eric Emms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by HonMIRV Alan Hodgkinson FGA David John Harrold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Steven Jordan FIRV PJDip FNAG FGA DGA Jonathan Lambert . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Rosamond Clayton FIRV FGA DGA Jonathan Lambert . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Adrian Smith MIRV PJDip FGA Shirley Mitchell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by David Fromming FIRV PJDip FNAG FGA DGA Shirley Mitchell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Kerry Gregory FGA DGA Shirley Mitchell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Michael Inkpen FIRV FGA Shirley Mitchell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Sue Pennington FIRV PJValDip FNAG FGA DGA Shirley Mitchell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Adrian Smith MIRV PJDip FGA Shirley Mitchell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Jon Tabard, J T Snuggs, Banstead.

Barry Sullivan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Heather McPherson FIRV FGA Geoff Whitefield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Alan Johns FIRV FBHI Geoff Whitefield . . . . . Nominated by Shirley Mitchell FIRV PJValDip PJGemDip PJManDip FNAG DGA Geoff Whitefield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Sue Pennington FIRV PJValDip FNAG FGA DGA Geoff Whitefield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Terence J Watts FIRV FGA Phil Withington . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Carla Goodfellow, SafeGuard, Birmingham Phil Withington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by D Kalandra, Goldsmiths, Darlington Phil Withington. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Miss W Simpson, Ernest Jones, Aberdeen Phil Withington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nominated by Vivienne Price, Aurum Group, Gateshead Phil Withington. . . . . . Nominated by Helen D White, Aurum Group, Newcastle-upon-Tyne

e are delighted to report that there are three IRV candidates who are standing for the vacancy which becomes available on the IRV Forum in September (at the NAG’s IRV Loughborough Conference) when MIRV Geoff Whitefield stands down in rotation after serving on the Forum for three years. They are: Barry Sullivan FIRV MAE A Ewen Taylor FIRV PJDip FGA DGA Geoff Whitefield FIRV PJDip PJGemDip FNAG A ballot will take place during the Conference over the weekend of Saturday 22nd to Monday 24th September, when IRV delegates will be invited to vote for the candidate of their choice.

W

T

Michael Inkpen receiving the Award last year (with Jonathan Lambert and Margaret Wilkins)

20 The Jeweller July 2012

The winner will be announced at the 2012 NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuer Loughborough Conference taking place from Saturday 22 to Monday 24 September. A brochure and booking form for the Conference is now available. If you would like a copy – it is automatically sent to all IRVs and delegates who attended the 2010 and 2011 conferences – please contact Sandra Page at: irv@jewellers-online.org or telephone her on: 029 2081 3615.

Geoff Whitefield, who is standing for re-election to the IRV Forum, with Jonathan Lambert, IRV chairman at the 2009 Conference

The Institute extends an invitation to all IRVs to put their name forward to attend an IRV Forum meeting as an invited observer to find out what goes on and what being an IRV Forum Elected Member involves.

The Forum addresses many issues relating to valuations – taking into consideration the valuers, their role within the Institute (and the Institute’s role in their day-to-day business as a valuer), relationships with the insurance companies and, of course, the public. The subjects covered are many and varied, from creating guidelines for IRVs and promoting the Institute and its Members/Fellows to the public, to looking into ways to boost a valuer’s business, not to mention providing education for new valuers and ongoing training for the longstanding valuer.

Contact Sandra at irv@jewellers-online.org or telephone 029 2081 3615 for the dates of forthcoming meetings. The Forum usually meets in late January/early February, mid March, early May, July/August and late October/early November.

| BJA News The Ayes have it! Members of the BJA take a vote at the 125th Anniversary AGM.

Something old, something new...

The Jewellery Show at Somerset House saw the BJA elect a new chairman and stage a stunning exhibition of historical products to celebrate its 125th Anniversary. The show also provided a successful sales platform for many of its member firms.

The BJA’s 125th AGM The BJA's 125th AGM, which was staged on 12th June, 2012 at The Jewellery Show London, saw Gary Williams, head of the Jewellery Division at Pressman Mastermelt, elected as the Association’s new chairman.

He replaces Michael Hughes of JewelCast who has stepped down after the statutory two years in this honorary position.

Williams has been involved in the jewellery industry for many years and prior to taking up his current role at Pressman was a director of the award-winning bridal jewellery manufacturer Brown and Newirth, which he built to become a major force in the market-

22 The Jeweller July 2012

place with a work force of over 100 people.

He has a strong understanding of British manufacturing which he supports avidly.

Speaking about his election Williams said: “I believe that our focus as an Association must be on our members themselves and on making sure that we are offering them the things they want and the support they need in these extremely tough times. There are so many issues currently affecting our industry and the BJA must continually adapt to ensure that its services are of relevance.”

An area of particular interest for Williams has always been security and one of his first

tasks on joining the National Committee was to work with the National Association of Goldsmiths and other interested parties to make the SaferGems security initiative available to members.

“BJA membership is at an all time high and new companies are being attracted by our effective industry representation and leadership, particularly in the areas of ethical trading, security, training and apprenticeships.

I intend to visit our membership throughout the UK and by talking to them, want to ensure that they additionally understand the benefits the BJA provides to help develop their businesses and also saving them money,” he commented.

Jason Holt (left) and Gary Williams, the new vice chairman and chairman of the BJA

BJA News |

Sarah Jordan

Harriet Kelsall

Ben Roberts

Other new faces Also elected to the National Committee of the BJA at the meeting was Jason Holt who became the Association’s new vice chairman.

Holt is a director of the Hatton Garden gemstone company Holts and is also the founder of Holts Academy, the highly successful industry training institution also based in Hatton Garden. Holt was appointed by the Government earlier this year to head an employerled review that will look for ways to boost the creation and take-up of apprenticeships among small businesses.

The designer jeweller Sarah Jordan was elected as a full member of the National Committee while Harriet Kelsall, founder of Harriet Kelsall Jewellery (which is currently the only small jewellery manufacturing company within the BJA to be accredited by the Responsible Jewellery Council) and Ben Roberts, managing director of Clogau Gold were both co-opted to the Committee.

John Benjamin’s romp through jewellery history Fans of the BBC’s Antique Road John Benjamin Show will already be familiar with speaking at the guest speaker at the BJA’s the BJA’s AGM 125th anniversary AGM – John Benjamin FGA DGA. Benjamin who has been one of the resident experts on the Road Show for sometime was previously the International Director of Jewellery at Phillips Auction House. He now runs his own independent jewellery consultancy while also appearing on TV and writing and lecturing on a range of jewellery topics.

To celebrate the Association’s 125 years supporting the jewellery trade Benjamin treated his audience to a light-hearted and highly entertaining romp through jewellery trends and fashions in the decades since 1880 – starting with Queen Victoria’s mourning jewellery and ending with his prediction for the current decade in which he believes that jewellery with an ethic, Indian feel will become all the rage.

“John is a highly professional and amusing speaker and we were very lucky that he could join us for our anniversary AGM. We have had tremendous feedback on his talk from all those who attended and it was the perfect complement to our own anniversary exhibition as many of the topics to which he alluded were covered in our own timeline,” says the Association’s Lindsey Straughton.

The Voice of the Industry 23

Ask not what we can do for you but what together we can do for the benefit of all. . .

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS is the largest and most active trade association in the Jewellery industry.

Representing retailers within this sector for well over 100 years, we work together with our members to promote the highest level of ethical, professional practice in the UK Jewellery sector through ‘Education’, ‘Representation’ and ‘Communication’.

Today the potential and pitfalls of the jewellery industry are as complex as they are challenging and as the industry’s major trade association, the NAG is committed to providing our members with the necessary tools and information to ensure their businesses are best equipped to take advantage of the challenges ahead.

Indeed we are, and have been, at the forefront of many industry matters – either contesting, debating or discussing the key issues that effect our members and the industry as a whole; whether it’s ‘The Kimberley Process’, ‘FairTrade Gold’, ‘CIBJO’, ‘Ethical Jewellery’ or ‘Action for Market Towns’ to name a few, the views of our membership are always well represented at the ‘top table’.

Plus, more recently, the NAG has developed member initatives such as ‘Safergems’ (in conjunction with TH March to improve the fight against crime), the ‘Executive Development Forum’ (a member forum committed to sharing ideas and improving sales) and the ‘Institute of Registered Valuers’ (setting standards for professional valuers). Add the NAG’s industry renowned JET I & 2 Education and Training online courses to the list, as well as publishing its very own magazine The Jeweller, and it is clear to see the NAG is proactively involved in all aspects of the trade.

The NAG is your voice and your trade association for the UK Jewellery industry – collectively and together we can work to achieve a better industry for everyone.

If you would like to find out what working together can achieve for the benefit of all, please call Amy Oliver on 020 7613 4445 and find out about the different membership schemes available to retailers, manufacturers and designers.

Education • Representation • Communication www.jewellers-online.org

BJA News |

Kickstart designers chosen for IJL 2012 mid fierce competition 10 designers have been chosen for KickStart 2012.

The initiative provides an excellent way for retailers and buyers to find out about outstanding designers exhibiting for the first time at International Jewellery London.

Imogen Belfield, Mandana Oskoui, Clarice Price Thomas, Flavie Michou, Lestie Lee, Myia Bonner, Quarter Angel, Ros Millar, De Anna Kiernan and Annaloucah Fine Jewellery.

“It is such a pleasure to be able to help select and mentor such talented emerging designer makers. This joint IJL/BJA initiative has gone from strength to strength and this year’s chosen candidates look very promising,” stated Lindsey Straughton, BJA marketing manager. ”IJL organised a lovely VIP launch at the Goldsmiths Centre for the first time to allow these newcomers to meet a few IJL Diamond Club members in advance of the exhibition. This was good pre-show preparation and a stimulating experience.”

“KickStart provides a fantastic commercial launch pad for 10 of the best new designers in the UK jewellery industry. Their jewellery is of an extremely high standard in terms of both quality and originality. The Design Gallery at IJL provides a unique and intimate setting for the industry to meet the designers and see their stunning work on the KickStart stand,” commented IJL’s event director Sam Willoughby.

One KickStarter who has already received acclaim with her innovative style and has won the IJL Editor’s Choice Award 2012 for technical excellence is Clarice Price Thomas.

A

Commemorative BJA desk stand Erica Sharpe with Richard Aldroyd

Her pieces combine her interests in machinery, movements, mechanisms and antiques, with an elegant design philosophy.

Her debut collection ‘Time’ is heavily inspired by the unseen inside of clocks and watches.

“I am really excited to have been selected to exhibit as part of this year’s KickStart at IJL,” commented Price Thomas. For my business, Clarice Price Thomas (left) with Aldyth Crowther

I feel it will be an important step to showcase my work at such an incredible show with the support of the other KickStarters,” Jessica Neil from Quarter Angel received attention at the VIP launch – amid Jubilee fever – for her London scenes. The designer uses processes including photoetching on to matt silver with oxidised detail, evident in her ‘Skyline’ collection inspired by the magnificent views of London seen from Hampstead Heath.

Over 240 BJA members have already signed up for the show which takes place on 2nd-5th September 2012 and will receive an impressive member discount.

For further sales information please contact Michael Heywood on 020 8271 2144.

eweller Erica Sharpe presented the new BJA chairman, Gary Williams of Pressman Mastermelts with a handmade silver desk accessory during the BJA AGM last month.

Somerset-based Sharpe won the competition to create a commemorative 125 year desk accessory with her unicorn pen stand cleverly incorporating the numbers one, two and five. The award was sponsored by Cookson Precious Metals which generously donated half a kilo of silver for her to use to actually create the piece. In addition Sharpe was awarded £750 towards the cost of a stand in June at The Jewellery Show London at Somerset House which proved to be an exciting and profitable experience for the jewellery designer.

J

A triumphant day of BJA golf hanks to all the James supporters and Bralee sponsors of the BJA Golf day during which members and their guests enjoyed sunny rounds of golf as well as tips from the Pro. Sponsors included Primassure, Annodata, T H March and Pressman Mastermelts. James Bralee of Annodata, a BJA service provider specialising in the tailor-made packages for the supply of photocopying machines, printers and peripherals, won the singles 18 hole competition with an excellent score!

T

The Voice of the Industry 25

| BJA News

Anniversary Exhibition draws the crowds he BJA’s Anniversary Exhibition, which traced a time-line from 1880 to the present day, was extremely well-received by visitors to The Jewellery Show London where it was on display.

The exhibition showcased 29 different member companies – one for each decade up to the Millennium and one for each year thereafter. All of the companies featured – with just one exception – are still in business today and indeed several of them were exhibiting during Jewellery Week. CW Sellors and Deakin & Francis, both of which pre-date the BJA by some 100 years, had stands at The Jewellery Show London while D A Soley (a mere stripling having been set up in 1901) took part in The Goldsmiths’ Pavillion exhibition also at Somerset House.

One of the stars of the show was undoubtedly a travelling salesman’s kit from the 1940s comprising a huge array of jewellery findings sewn onto red velvet pads supplied by the Liverpool findings company Clarke Manufacturing.

Another popular contribution was a pattern book from the 1900s supplied by the Birmingham manufacturer Deakin & Francis.

This book, which is now crumbling with age, had visitors marvelling over its fine, hand-

T

drawn jewellery designs and the extremely modest prices – mainly in shillings – detailed alongside each piece.

The jet jewellery necklace supplied by C W Sellors under its W Hamond brand so impressed the team from Adorn London – the cool fashion website and blog – with its timeless quality which they felt would not make it out of place on the catwalks of today – that they were moved to Tweet its virtues direct from the show to their many followers among the world’s fashionistas.

A travelling salesman’s stock of findings from the 1940s lent by Clarke Manufacturing

26 The Jeweller July 2012

Flamboyant jewellery from 1950s made by Alabaster and Wilson and lent by Connard & Son Ltd of Southport

Journalists from The Lady magazine also made a special visit to see the exhibition and were particularly taken with some coloured stone brooches from the 1950s made by Alabaster and Wilson and lent to the BJA by Connard & Son Ltd of Southport.

Nor was it simply the old that provoked interest, with visitors finding many of the iconic pieces chosen to represent the years from 2000 – 2012 equally fascinating. Each item was carefully selected to represent something significant from that particular year. For example John Moore’s anodised aluminium and silver necklace, earring and bangle suite made in 2008 was picked as an early adopter of mixed metal hallmarking, while Jon Dibben’s eye-catching rare green tourmaline ring was chosen to represent 2011 when it became one of the very first jewels to be created in Fairtrade and Fairmined gold.

“There is no doubt that the exhibition – while it obviously cannot pretend to be a full history of jewellery and silverware production – did portray some of the important trends that have taken place over the past 125 years. It also demonstrated the huge diversity of product that has always been produced by our member firms with not only fabulous jewellery but also silverware, pewter, enamelled badges, findings, rapid prototypes, spoons, a knife, a trophy, celebrity jewellery and a stunning clock all on display,” says the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton.

The exhibition was extensively photographed during The Jewellery Show London and a short film – which will be posted on the BJA’s website in due course – is now in production. Members of the Association will automatically be sent a link to this once it is ready for viewing. All member companies will also be sent a catalogue of the exhibition so they can see for themselves the tremendous skill and craftsmanship of their fellow members.

the

Jeweller picks...

KAT & BEE

BABETTE WASSERMAN

SWAROVSKI

Rock and baroque come together for Swarovski’s latest collection – titled ‘Kingdom of Jewels’.

The result is an eclectic blend of heritage and modernity with touches of medieval, eastern and even Shakespearean influences. Colours of the faceted stones are rich and flamboyant while details in the pieces include lacework, embroidery, settings and a mix of different colour metals. www.swarovski.com

ABC Brazil is the title of Kat&Bee’s latest collection, which sees the London label’s signature gothic skull fused with gems such as amethyst, along with coloured beads and entwined in sterling silver or 14ct goldfilled wire. This year pendant necklaces and hoop earrings have been added to the line. www.katandbee.co.uk

Picking up on the catwalk trend for ’20sinspired gowns, as well as the Great Gatsby film, Wasserman has introduced deco styles for 2012. Simple black and white pieces, such as these black obsidian hoop earrings with CZ detail really epitomise the period’s look. Other pieces include a tassel necklace, ‘Bullet’ necklace in white agate and black obsidian and black agate band rings, as well as the classic silver lariat scarf necklace. www.babette-wasserman.com

POLLY WALES

Highlighting our favourites of the just-launched jewellery collections for high summer and autumn, plus a crop of fresh new names to look out for.

After studying fine art sculpture, Polly Wales followed her passion for jewellery and re-trained at the Royal College of Art; the two come together in her one-of-a-kind pieces which combine traditional casting and carving techniques. Gemstones such as rubies and sapphires are cast directly into gold so that rings resemble natural gemencrusted forms. The unorthodox approach has become the designer’s signature style. www.pollywales.com

MOLLY B COUTURE

Erica Illingworth, founder of children’s jewellery label Molly Brown, has launched a new jewellery brand – Molly B Couture – aimed at women. Officially launched during Jewellery Week last month, the line comprises clean-lined pieces, exemplified by these sterling silver ‘Innes’ pendants featuring insets of mother of pearl. Other collections in the new line include Molly B's Signature Bows chain necklaces which come in 9ct gold set with diamonds, as well as in silver and Love Knot necklaces. www.mollybrownlondon.com

JULIA BURNESS

FABERGÉ

Iconic jewellery house Fabergé has launched a range of cufflinks inspired by the some of the classic Fabergé themes and pieces from the early 20th century. These round gold links with inset diamond swirls echo the rococco mood, but with a contemporary twist, while other styles mimic the celebrated gem-set ribbed cigarette cases or the famous egg shape. www.faberge.com

CORALIA

Colour and the shape of stones are the two guiding elements of Coralia Leet’s jewellery collections. The Nicaragua-born designer sources gemstones – such as ruby quartz, chalcedony and citrine – from Brazil and Turkey and combines them with 22ct vermeil gold plate for earrings, necklaces and bracelets. The Riviera and Mykonos have provided inspiration for her latest collection. www.coralialeets.com

Vancouver-based jewellery designers Danielle Wilmore and Wade Papin created the Pyrrha collection after coming across a box of 19th century wax seals – their desire was to give a life and permanence to the fragile objects. “Rather than make our jewellery perfect, we like to show the maker’s hand; we celebrate the original cracks in the waxes,” they say. The talismanic pieces – pendants, rings, bracelets and earrings – are cast in silver, bronze or recycled 14ct gold. www.pyrrha.com

Using lost-wax casting, together with pieces of lace found in vintage clothes markets, Julia Burness has created her sterling silver Lost Lace collection. Trained in silversmithing and jewellery design at Sir John Cass in London, and now working from a studio in Hatton Garden, Julia aims to source environmentally and where possible uses recycled silver, as well as gold from artisanal and Fairtrade gold mines. www.juliaburnessjewellery.com

PYRRA

SALIMA HUGHES

Hatton Garden-based jeweller Salima Hughes (who is also a classically-trained musician) has combined her two passions to create jewellery inspired by musical manuscripts.

Each gemstone or diamond rests where a note would lie on the script. Her current collection, using pink and orange sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines, are based on the classic Ava Maria. For a more personal touch Salima creates bespoke pieces, with stones placed on gold or platinum bands, forming the notes and chords of the chosen melody. www.salimahughes.com

The World’s Number One Fine Jewellery Event Halls 3B & 3C • Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre 21 – 25 September 2012

September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

A world-class signature of style Aaron Basha Angela Buchwald Jewelry Annamaria Cammilli Gioielli Srl Antonini Artinian Co Ltd / Sartoro Atasay AUTORE B. Klein Jewelry GmbH Bapalal Keshavlal Baraka’ Bastian GmbH & Co KG Bayco Gem Corporation Blue River / Jewel Decor Charles Krypell Christian Bernard Group Christopher Designs Inc Ciaravolo Crivelli Effy Eris Jewellery Etho - Lithos

Euro Pearls / Yoko London Ltd Fabjewels Pvt Ltd Fraleoni Gioielli Garaude Paris Gembros Jewelry Co Ltd Graziella Group Spa Grimoldi Milano SAS Hellmuth, Gert GmbH Hodel (Switzerland) AG House of Baguettes NY Inc Italian Design Srl Jewelmer International Corporation Jorge Revilla Kuwayama Corporation La Reina Legend Jewelry Co Ltd (MCO) Lili Jewelry Louis Fiessler & Co GmbH Magerit Miiori Mine To Mine Private Collection

Nouvelle Bague Firenze Palmiero Jewellery Design Pippo Perez Pranda Group Pranda Jewelry Public Co Ltd Ramon RCM Srl Roberto Bravo Samra Jewellery Co (L L C) Shenzhen SYM Jewellery Co Ltd Stefan Hafner Sutra Jewels Inc The Fifth Season Thien Po Ltd Tokyo Kiho Co Ltd TTF Jewelry Valente Milano Vilmas GmbH Yvel Zancan Spa Information as of 11 June 2012

3VKERMWIV 9&1 %WME 0XH * 'LMRE 6IWSYVGIW &YMPHMRK ,EVFSYV 6SEH ;ERGLEM ,SRK /SRK 8IP *E\

8S I\LMFMX TPIEWI GSRXEGX 7EPIW (ITEVXQIRX .I[IPPIV] *EMVW 9&1 %WME 8IP *E\ )QEMP WEPIWNKJ LO$YFQ GSQ

*SV JYVXLIV HIXEMPW TPIEWI ZMWMX SYV [IFWMXI

[[[ .I[IPPIV]2IX%WME GSQ

WORLD’S NUMBER ONE The

Fine Jewellery Event

September

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

19 - 23 September 2012 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging

21 - 25 September 2012 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Fine Finished Jewellery

UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : (852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677 Fax : (852) 3749 7319 Email : salesjgf-hk@ubm.com

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

| Security

Snatch & Run

Michael Hoare presents his regular roundup of the latest security news and SaferGems updates. ou’d think these days that it might be a rather amateurish attempt at a robbery – but the snatch and run method is still being practiced by many thieves. This month we’ve seen a huge rise in the number of people being hit by robbers entering their premises, asking to see an item before snatching it and running from the store. The problem for the jeweller is there is very little they can do once the thief has made it out the door.

We’ve had two similar cases in the North West this month, with one diamond engagement ring and two valuable bracelets having been snatched from the jeweller’s very hands. Both suspects acted in a similar way – describing a piece of jewellery for a girlfriend, before disappearing to make a phone call and returning to make the snatch.

Y

Ask for their name and call the company to see if it all checks out. It may seem time consuming – but if there’s any niggle of doubt, it might prove more costly not to.

Now, it may seem like I’m teaching you to suck eggs, but sometimes jewellers may not realise that these kinds of burglaries are very simple and becoming more frequent. We never want to raise suspicions among our members – but vigilance can never be a bad thing. Luckily with SaferGems at our disposal we can hopefully warn any members of any suspicious individuals in the area – and what to do if you come across them.

The great tax swindle There’s a number of different scams floating around at the moment; in last month’s issue we reported on a Manchester jeweller who was robbed at gunpoint after being visited by two men claiming to be from Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs. The jeweller in question was robbed of £10,000

32 The Jeweller July 2012

worth of goods and severely traumatised by the incident. Along with the police, SaferGems circulated an alert to members informing them of the incident. Shortly after, a member in a nearby area contacted SaferGems to describe how they had received a phone call from someone claiming to be from HMRC, who would visit the store the next day. Liaising with the police and the jeweller in question, SaferGems aided police in preventing an attack by providing an increased police presence at the jewellers store that day.

It’s a harrowing story – and one that, unfortunately, happens all too often in this industry. The confidence trick is always a great weapon for the criminal. If they can find some way to instantly gain your trust you’re left vulnerable to attack. It’s very easy to be caught off-guard, and especially to assume officials are who they say they are.

However, there are a few simple things that can be done to avoid becoming a victim.

If you suspect someone is not who they say they are you can put them off, stall them, or if they give you a company name or official title – check their details. Ask for their name and call the company to see if it all checks out. It may seem time consuming – but if there’s any niggle of doubt, it might prove more costly not to.

On the bright side…

In the interests of balance and the feel-good factor, SaferGems has a number of good news stories to report. Over the past month a number of cases that SaferGems has assisted in have led to arrests or convictions.

A serial jewellery thief from the West Midlands was jailed for 32 months at Mold Crown Court on Friday 18th May 2012 after he admitted to eight jewellery snatches totalling over £25,000. Meanwhile three people were sentenced at York Crown Court on Tuesday 8th May 2012, for a robbery which took place at Rosh Jewellers on Huntriss Row, Scarborough in December 2010. The gang stole approximately

£50,000 worth of jewellery, which included a gold and diamond bracelet, gold earrings, necklaces, watches and diamond rings – injuring a 58 year-old man in the process.

We also saw convictions for the four men involved in a case stretching back as far as 2001. It’s evident that violent crime against jewellers is on the increase; but we’re also seeing a stronger fight back against this kind of crime. With more shared knowledge and a greater understanding of how criminals work jewellers are able to protect themselves against crime – and alert the police to anyone who may be involved.

Conference With two key sponsors already signed up, the structure of NAG’s October Retail Security Conference is really beginning to take shape and we will soon have details of the event available for those readers anxious to confirm the date in their diary. For the record it takes place on Tuesday the 16th October and we plan to bring you an engaging day of presentations and activities that will whet your security taste buds.

By the way, if you still haven’t logged on to SaferGems – what are you waiting for? Go to www.safergems.org or email: amyoliver@jewellers-online to activate your registration and start receiving alerts right away. Don’t delay – do it today!

w w w. s a f e r g e m s . o r g . u k

s! d with ZERO failure e il fo s e ri e b b ro ry e FIFTEEN UK jewell

gg Fog Bandit is the fastest and highest density security fogging system on the market, designed to protect an entire room in just a few seconds gg Delivers 28 cubic metres of fog per second gg Reduces visibility to just 25cm and lingers for up to an hour gg Projects the fog 6 metres in the ďŹ rst 2 seconds alone

For more information contact us

0844 5577 870

or visit www.bandituk.co.uk

gg Up to 25 activations from one cartridge means no engineer call-out or top up costs after each activation gg Exceptionally low running costs gg Leaves NO residue gg 5 Year Fog Bandit Warranty for peace of mind

FOR LIVE CCTV FOOTAGE VISIT OUR WEBSITE

The Voice of the Industry 33

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERS’ DIPLOMA

BOOST STAFF CONFIDENCE AND IMPROVE SALES The Professional Jewellers’ Diploma is packed with information on effective selling designed [V IVVZ[ WYVÄ[ HUK IYPUN YLWLH[ I\ZPULZZ Get all the practical skills that a jeweller needs in two bite-sized online assessment chunks (known as JET 1 and JET 2

As well as product knowledge and selling skills, customer service, hallmarking, gemstones, metals (gold, platinum, palladium and silver) the programmes also cover: JET 1 Online: New designers, personal development, rings, silverware and gifts.

JET 2 Online: Alternative shopping, JVUZ\TLY JVUÄKLUJL KPZWSH` OPZ[VY` VM QL^LSSLY` [OL QL^LSSLY HUK [OL SH^ ZLJ\YP[` ZLY]PJLZ HUK YLWHPYZ ]HS\H[PVUZ

Invest in staff training and get ahead of the competition by contacting the NAG now on: tel: 020 7613 4445 #1 or email jet@jewellers-online.org or visit www.jewellers-online.org The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG

NAG Services |

At your service Among the many benefits that NAG membership offers members is the preferential access to relevant service providers. We strive constantly to find new such suppliers and here we outline two of them… Look out in future issues for details of more.

Why leasing might be the best option Are you still able to get finance for your business? If it's proving a problem, does this mean that you have stopped updating your equipment and technology. If you have bitten the bullet to make sure that your security or EPOS system is up to scratch, are your equipment suppliers offering you competitive and flexible finance terms?

In partnering with Clear Asset Finance the NAG is able to offer competitive leasing and finance facilities to our members. Clear AF is a credible equipment finance broker with over 80 years of asset finance experience, providing business

Building customer relationships Today, it is a broadly accepted fact in the commercial world that the cost of acquiring new customers far exceeds the cost of retaining existing ones. The benefits of retaining and developing relationships with customers as opposed to other marketing methods are also widely promoted.

Through an effective approach to customer relationship management a retailer can: • increase sales by identifying and responding to customer needs • increase profitability by identifying and nurturing best customers • reduce costs through effective and targeted communications • increase sales through cross-selling opportunities • maximise footfall by driving customers to your store at the appropriate time • reduce costs by attracting new customers through referrals or by identifying profitable customers

finance through the UK’s leading finance companies. It also has a large pre-approved supplier network of all types of business equipment from CCTV to reprographics, computer hardware and software, telecoms, EPOS, franking machines and many more.

In addition Clear AF is making available special rates to NAG members. The advantages of leasing are: • update your equipment anytime.

With Clear's rental facility retailers can benefit from the latest equipment today. Plus, at any time it is possible to update or add-on equipment without penalty. Changes can be made through a simple contract revision, often without any increase in the rental.

• keep your cash in your business.

Rental means that a business’s capital

With over 40 years experience developing and managing award winning customer programmes, LaSer UK works with businesses across a variety of market sectors: retail, insurance, travel and leisure.

Through its systems and services, LaSer UK is experienced in determining how best to identify, connect and engage with your customers. It’s about realising the value of a business through customer insight.

Via a flexible platform particularly effective in the retail environment retailers can: • identify their customers (enrol them to a scheme and present them with a token that they can present at the POS each time they buy).

• connect with their customers (deliver a range of hard benefits such as reward vouchers and discounts and soft benefits such as preview events) • collect customer data • transform data to insight (identify valuable customers and understand where

•

•

is conserved. With Clear’s rental facility you benefit from the latest equipment under the security of rental payments known also as constant cost. You can use your capital for the core areas of your business and attain higher returns than purchasing equipment. enjoy tax relief on your total rentals.

Clear can provide a lease rental option that helps spread the cost of your new solution over its useful working lifetime.

This allows you to relate day to day benefits with the day to day costs; while potentially making notable savings over the term of the agreement as the total rentals repayable are 100 per cent tax allowable. keep control of your equipment from start to finish.

Has your supplier insisted you upgrade your equipment because your lease has come to the end? With Clear you will always be in control of your equipment, and if you want to have continued use of the equipment at the end of the primary lease period, you can for a small nominal fee.

For more information or a financial quote email: info@clearaf.co.uk or call the company on tel: 01277 239932

to focus efforts to increase their value) understand and measure the effectiveness of communication activity, offers and campaigns The use of loyalty programmes by consumers is increasing as they continue to expect retailers to deliver ever-greater value in exchange for their business, but this is just one of the ways to engage with customers.

LaSer, a specialist in managing, processing and interpreting data will transform the data you have into meaningful, actionable insight or unlock the potential of the customer data you currently hold.

LaSer is offering free data/CRM audit to NAG members and a discount of 25 per cent on its standard rates for services. For details email: newclientenquiries@laseruk.com, call 0121 712 9092 or visit: www.laseruk.com •

The Voice of the Industry 35

| Feature

Could your website be letting you down?

Research shows that consumers walk away from bad websites – don’t let that happen to you, says Richard Stevenson of 1&1 internet (www.1and1.co.uk) he majority of UK businesses now recognise that a web presence is essential for effective sales, marketing and customer communication. While jewellers will always be most concerned with the quality of their work and standard of their service, no company these days can afford to neglect their business development.

In fact, thanks to the surge in the popularity of smartphones, a growing number of Britons are now even browsing the web while on the move. Nowadays it is easy to instantly research a jeweller online just from spotting their jewellery shop on the street. However, the latest research shows that too many small business websites are falling behind the times.

A recent study by 1&1 Internet finds that a total of 46 per cent of consumers have cancelled plans to spend with a small business after finding a poor quality website. 1&1’s ‘2011 Digital High Street Audit’ – a study of nearly 2,000 UK adults, reveals that 37 per cent have walked away completely while a further nine per cent have opted to spend less as a direct result.

The data shows worryingly low levels of consumer satisfaction with the small business websites available to them. The risk to retailers from providing a bad online experience is clear – 49 per cent of consumers believe that a bad website makes a worse impact than a business having no website at all.

It is clear that many small business websites have not evolved as they should have in recent years – and among their numbers are likely to be a few jewellers. One third of consumers surveyed believe that in general, the small business websites they use are “tired” and “unimpressive”, and 41 per cent frequently find errors such as typos or broken URLs.

T

36 The Jeweller July 2012

Many consumers feel that a lot of small business websites today are unattractive and often do not perform well. How well does your own website measure up?

Given all of this, it is unsurprising that a further study of 480 UK small firms with a website finds that 50 per cent have never asked their customers for feedback about their website. However, many owners are aware that they have problems with their online presence. Sixty-six per cent of companies surveyed admit that they struggle to maintain an attractive website, with the most common pain-point being the sourcing of fresh content (38 per cent). Thirty per cent have been “reluctant” or “embarrassed” to recommend their website to their customers at least once because they knew of faults.

Significantly, many British consumers are keen to help business owners create a more satisfying online experience. Given the facility for providing feedback, 33 per cent of website users would provide a review or recommendation for improving a small business website. Hence, all types of companies, whether they be an accountant or a jeweller, should add a feedback form Sample websites created with 1and1 software

to their website, or set up an email address for collecting valuable user-comments.

UK businesses can be reassured that investments made to improve their websites can positively impact their bottom line.

The research shows that keeping an ugly or badly functioning website online can comprise a risk to your revenue and development. Consumers have ever higher expectations, and it is essential that every company website inspires confidence.

Tools to give a head start Today there are website packages aimed specifically at helping small businesses launch a compelling and effective website in minutes. In particular, there are packages from around £10 per month that provide a choice of industry-specific templates and content, such as those for jewellers. The packages are designed to be used by any level of computer user and include everything that a jeweller needs to launch online.

An industry-specific website package will come with a jewellery-themed template and related pre-filled texts and images.

Within such packages, there will be tools for social media and mobile functionality, and features like feedback forms, relevant image library and location, news and weather content, as well as shop functionality.

No enterprise can afford the loss of image and sales revenue that a poorly presented or broken website can lead to.

Every jewellery business would be wise to ensure that their website grows and improves, even modestly, each and every month. Most often, it is not the ‘wow factor’ that wins out, it is the consistent and effective who are rewarded on today’s Web.

| BJA Feature

Simon says!

Never has the need for a co-ordinated UK jewellery industry training structure been greater, says BJA CEO Simon Rainer. he recent announcement that the jewellery sector is to benefit from a new investment through the extension of the National Skills Academy for Creative & Cultural is very welcome news. It can be argued that the jewellery industry has lost more than a decade in having an effective training support programme and it is worth having a look at the reasons why.

T

If we go back to the 1980s, retailers bought predominantly from UK manufacturers. In turn, this perpetuated the need for efficient production techniques and the demand for skilled craftsmen. Recruitment of young people into jewellery manufacturing was widespread and supported by government initiatives such as the Youth Training Scheme and the efforts of the Manpower Services Commission.

Additionally, the educational sector played its part offering both FE and HE courses for those wishing to pursue a career in the UK jewellery sector.

In the 1990s the UK jewellery industry experienced a period of exceptional growth fuelled in part by the emergence of Far Eastern manufacturers. While jewellery sales rose, the unintended consequence

38 The Jeweller July 2012

was that UK jewellery manufacturers found themselves to be uncompetitive – both in the use of new technology and production techniques.

At the same time UK retailers were increasingly sourcing from overseas with the net result that UK manufacturing went into serious decline. Unfortunately this curtailed the demand for the perpetuation of traditional jewellery skills with the consequence that many companies ceased their training and recruitment programmes.

And while the UK jewellery manufacturing industry was slumping, the UK educational establishment changed its emphasis to a more academic bent – fueled by the rise in new universities and the allure of a new generation of fee-paying students. Suddenly the access to vocational jewellery skills training previously supplied by the likes of City and Guilds became more remote.

As jobs in the jewellery industry became harder to find, the new breed of HE-trained jewellery students looked to self-employment as a means to start out in the industry and this gave rise to the ‘designer maker’, supported at that time by the Enterprise Allowance Scheme that provided funding for start up businesses.

It was not until our current economic downturn that the value of traditional skills became apparent. The industry slowly realised that they needed to work together to become a united and effective trading force. Post 2007, we are paying the price for neglect and lack of investment in training and today we are almost at a standing start to reinvigorate the jewellery skill sector.

Back in 1998 the BJA, working alongside Birmingham Assay Office and The Goldsmith’s Company, realised the potential threat in the diminution in traditional jewellery skills training and so was born JAITC – The Jewellery and Allied Industries Training Council.

However JAITC was hampered in its good intent by the lack of accreditation available to vocational skills training and, while it had developed NVQ’s levels two and three, was not able to provide industry access.

The common perception at that time and up until 18 months ago was that educational provision was the tail wagging the dog.

What was really needed was to get back to solid vocational training.

And with the news that the UK jewellery industry is going to benefit from the extension of the NSA Creative & Cultural into the jewellery sector we now have the

Post 2007, we are paying the price for neglect and lack of investment in training and today we are almost at a standing start to reinvigorate the jewellery skill sector.

Before the decline in the UK economy in 2007, this new dynamic within the jewellery industry appeared to be working well and the market experienced a steady flow of innovative designs serving high value niche markets. However the gap between this new supply sector and the more traditional skills was widening. And while conditions were good, the industry ignored the need for the continuance of vocational traditional skills training.

foundation for industry-driven training that will encourage hand skills, technical skills and business skills – and of course accredited NVQ apprenticeship programmes.

Already the BJA has been in contact with many of its members to ascertain needs.

The demand for a structured apprenticeship programme has been extremely encouraging.

What the involvement with the NSA now allows us to do is to adopt additional training programmes identified by industry.

Pfli gXike\i `e gi\Z`flj d\kXc% Kiljk k_\ \og\ikj% N\ Xi\ k_\ gif]\jj`feXcj n_\e `k Zfd\j kf Xcc k_`e^j gi\Z`flj d\kXc# ]ifd jZiXg ^fc[ k_ifl^_ kf `em\jkd\ek Ylcc`fe% N`k_ ), p\Xij \og\i`\eZ\ pfl ZXe i\jk Xjjli\[ k_Xk n`k_ 9<;I8 $ pflËi\ `e jX]\ _Xe[j%

9<;I8 >dY? ./ =iXeZ`j Jki\\k ;lYc`e /

G_fe\1 " *,* ' ( .'. //0* =Xo1 " *,* ' ( .'. /00. <$DX`c1 `e]f7Y\[iX%`\

nnn%Y\[iX%`\

Clarity in asset finance AZVh^c\ ndjg VhhZih bV`Zh iZX]cdad\n VcY di]Zg Zfj^ebZci bdgZ V[[dgYVWaZ [dg ndjg XdbeVcn# :kZc ^[ ndj ]VkZ hj[ÒX^Zci XVe^iVa gZhdjgXZh! ^i XVc d[iZc WZ bdgZ WZcZÒX^Va id aZVhZ# 8aZVg 6; ]VkZ dkZg -% nZVgh d[ VhhZi ÒcVcXZ ZmeZg^ZcXZ VcY VgZ cdl ldg`^c\ ^c Xdc_jcXi^dc i]Z C6< VcY ^ih bZbWZgh id d[[Zg VcY egdk^YZ Vc VaiZgcVi^kZ ÒcVcXZ hdaji^dch Vi kZgn XdbeZi^i^kZ gViZh ^c dgYZg i]Vi i]Z g^\]i ^ckZhibZci XVc ZchjgZ ndjg Wjh^cZhh Xdci^cjZh id \gdl ^c i]ZhZ Y^[ÒXjai VcY]VgY i^bZh# I]Z WZcZÒih d[ VhhZi ÒcVcXZ aZVh^c\ ^cXajYZ/

“Clear’s approach to finance meant a quick decision on finance for a much needed asset to allow our business to move forward with plans.”

Ifh[WZ j^[ Yeiji Ä EVn^c\ XVh] djig^\]i [dg XVe^iVa VhhZih XVc WZ V h^\c^ÒXVci YgV^c dc ndjg XdbeVcnÉh ldg`^c\ XVe^iVa# L^i] VhhZi ÒcVcXZ ndj l^aa ZVhZ ndjg XVh] Ódl i]gdj\] gZ\jaVg eVnbZcih dkZg Vc V\gZZY eZg^dY# ?cfhel[ h[jkhd ed _dl[ijc[dj Ä EVn^c\ dkZg i^bZ Vaadlh ndj id eVn Vh ndj jhZ! hd ndj VX]^ZkZ V [VhiZg gZijgc i]Vc ^[ ndj eVn je [gdci# <b[n_Xb[ fWoc[dj efj_edi Ä EVn bdci]an! fjVgiZgan! hZb^"VccjVaan dg VccjVaan Wn Y^gZXi YZW^i! hiVcY^c\ dgYZg dg ^ckd^XZ# 9edi[hl[ meha_d] YWf_jWb Ä 8Vh] gZbV^ch `^c\ ^c Vaa ZXdcdb^X XdcY^i^dch# EgZhZgk^c\ ndjg ldg`^c\ XVe^iVa l^aa ZcVWaZ ndj id ^ckZhi ^c i]^c\h i]Vi egdk^YZ ndj l^i] V \gZViZg gZijgc i]Vc ejgX]Vh^c\ Zfj^ebZci# ;Wio kf]hWZ[i Ä AZVh^c\ eaVch ZcVWaZ ndj id \Zi i]Z iZX]cdad\n ndj cZZY cdl l]^aZ dei^dch l^aa egdiZXi ndj [gdb Zfj^ebZci WZXdb^c\ dWhdaZiZ# JejWb iebkj_ed ÓdWdY_d] Ä LZ XVc Vahd ^cXajYZ hd[ilVgZ! ^chiVaaVi^dc VcY di]Zg hZgk^XZh ^c i]Z VggVc\ZbZci# <Wij Yh[Z_j Z[Y_i_edi Ä 8gZY^i YZX^h^dch XVc WZ bVYZ l^i]^c V [Zl ]djgh VcY YdXjbZciVi^dc ZbV^aZY [dg ndjg h^\cVijgZ hd ndj XVc fj^X`an WZ jh^c\ i]Z cZl Zfj^ebZci ndj cZZY# JWn [\ÓY_[dj Ä AZVh^c\ eVnbZcih bVn WZ d[[hZi V\V^chi iVmVWaZ egdÒih# Ndj h]djaY ]dlZkZg X]ZX` i]^h edh^i^dc l^i] ndjg VXXdjciVci#

Get in touch See how we can help call 01277 239932 or visit clearaf.co.uk

BJA Feature |

BJA at the Jewellery Show London ver 50 BJA members were exhibiting at this event and feedback was overwhelmingly positive with exhibitors and attendees alike praising the venue and the quantity and quality of the visitors who attended.

There was a real buzz throughout the show and Michael Evers, UK director of operations at the worldwide diamond company Windiam, the only diamond dealer at the event, was certainly enthusiastic: “This exhibition has managed to bring back a wow factor to jewellery shows. It is a great location to show luxury products and had high quality goods and high quality people,” he said.

Another exhibitor Suzanne Adams of London Road Jewellery agreed. “We’ve been busy all the time talking to people and we’ve seen some really good retailers. The show has a lovely atmosphere. The history of the place suits a third generation business like ours. It feels more like an exhibition than a trade show,” she said.

O

This 18ct rose and white gold asymmetric pendant is from the ‘Couture’ collection by Alfred Terry which was making its first trade show appearance for some years. The pendant features 79pts of HSi diamonds and has a trade price of £918. www.alfredterry.co.uk

Designer jeweller Rachel Galley has created a nifty new range of watches featuring removable/interchangeable charms. The six styles can be worn plain or with charms from her charm bracelet collection. RRPs range from £145 for a silver-overlay watch with the mother-of-pearl face to £210 for a gold-overlay watch with a Swarovski crystal face. Silver charms cost from £35-£45. Prices for gold charms are available on request. www.rachelgalley.com The ‘Precious Lace’ collection from Jessica Flinn is available in sterling silver or goldplated silver and comprises two sizes of pendant, a collar necklace and three different styles of cuff. RRPs range from £45 to £99. www.jessicaflinn.co.uk

The show provided some excellent business for cufflink manufacturer Deakin & Francis.

Popular choices among buyers were the company’s silver Bumble Bee, a 18ct gold Mohican Skull (complete with hair!) and a blue and yellow vitreous-enamel design. RRPs are £245, £4,590 and £189 respectively. www.deakinandfrancis.co.uk

New at The Jewellery Show London were three ‘bugs’ which are latest addition to London Road’s popular ‘Kew’ Collection.

RRPs are £295 for the bumble bee, £350 for the dragonfly and £375 for the butterfly. www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk

Glam Rock Watches, which are something of a phenomenon in their native USA, are now being exclusively distributed in the UK and Ireland by IBB London. ‘South Beach’ (pictured) has a 40ml case with a calf/ crocodile grain strap and a choice of three interchangeable case covers in gold, rose gold and silver finishes. www.ibblondon.com

The Voice of the Industry 41

Bastian Inverun

Ortak

Get set... Go for ‘Going for gold’ might be the sporting sentiment of the moment, but from a jewellery aspect, there’s nothing second-rate about silver… it has still got its shine, as Belinda Morris discovers. o, is it true that ‘silver is the new gold’?

Well, no, not really – no more than black is the new navy or Catherine is the new Diana. However, with the price of gold showing no real signs of falling any time soon (or certainly not significantly) silver jewellery is continuing to enjoy its extended moment in the spotlight.

It’s actually a question of taste and fashion as well as pragmatism. The price of gold may be leading some (retailers and consumers) to rethink silver as something precious, but at the same time trends such as the bead and charm phenomenon and increasing rise in and awareness of jewellery designer talent (all of which makes full use of silver) has had an impact.

S

42 The Jeweller July 2012

Kit Heath

“We feel the knowledge of trade and public has grown to accept silver as an established precious metal which can compete with gold in its own right,” says Carole Stock of Lily & Lotty. Charles Vickers, UK sales agent for Lapponia would go a step further: “Many jewellers have almost dispensed with gold jewellery and have invested heavily in branded silver collections,” he says (while adding that the Finnish company has, conversely, noticed an increase in its UK sales of 18ct gold last year).

The operative word in his observation (apart from ‘silver’) is ‘brand’ and quite clearly the strength and influence of globallyrecognised names cannot be underestimated

Georg Jensen

when it comes to discussing the rise in popularity of silver. Big players like Georg Jensen, Baccarat, Breuning, Thomas Sabo, Lapponia, Troll Beads and, of course, Pandora, have contributed greatly to this shift in perception.

It probably should be acknowledged that all of this represents something of a turnaround. Until fairly recently jewellery in anything other than gold or platinum was a no-no for many traditional retailers; but that attitude is no longer prevalent. A new generation of design-led boutiques has a different, unfettered perspective on the market – an outlook that encompasses new concepts as well as style directions. Added to which, there’s nothing like a gloomy financial

Feature |

Breuning

There are probably as many angles on the gold versus silver debate as there are brands.

“It would seem natural for the customer to move to silver as an alternative,” says Bob Rontaler of Goldmajor. “Price does play its part with the consumer. As the gold price has risen, so many manufacturers are reducing gold production and increasing silver and now there’s more competition in a very tight market.” At Pranda it’s been noticed that with jewellery shops buying gold from their customers, the knock-on effect is that those consumers are now looking for new jewellery… in silver, giving them “creative designs at affordable prices”.

“Many jewellers have almost dispensed with gold jewellery and have invested heavily in branded silver collections…” outlook to force a buyer’s hand, and certain brands were in the right place at the right time to ease the fiscal strain. “Silver has become very popular over the last few years and Thomas Sabo has helped to push that trend,” says its UK MD Harald Winzer.

Indeed, for some of the aforementioned brands, the preciousness of silver was never in doubt. “The consumers are looking for authentic stories and authentic brands,” says Annamette Moesgaard, global communications and PR manager of Georg Jensen.

“Our experience is that they are in for the real thing – quality, design and craftsmanship and a credible and authentic story behind the product and the brand. For us

Deci

this is perfect as these are our key values.

Our offering to the consumer is more than just a quick buy,” she adds. “Silver jewellery makes up the majority of our business,” explains Peter Andersen of Pandora UK. “Although it has also become more competitive, we pride ourselves on being innovative and creative in our designs, seeking to provide a universe of hand-finished, high-quality jewellery at commercially attractive price points.”

Sarah Strong, sales manager at Breuning, which launched its sterling silver collection last September, notes that “the older consumer, who could have purchased gold, is now more willing to spend on a branded silver design that they fall in love with.” And there’s the thing – it might once have been an economy-driven move to start stocking silver jewellery collections, but today it’s just as likely that the designs themselves are driving sales. “We are still finding new customers everyday and we’re grateful for and proud of this,” says Ti Sento UK sales manager Judith Lockwood. “This is because Ti Sento is silver, well-manufactured, wellpriced and on-trend.”

Lily & Lotty

“For many customers with a budget it’s more about what you can get for your money than choice of metal,” adds Barry Bennett of Gecko. “Consumer spending has not increased with the gold price, so many consumers – unaware of that price – are purchasing silver instead of gold.”

So Jewellery

The Voice of the Industry 43

| Feature

Pranda

“The high price of gold is definitely making silver jewellery more attractive and these are often the customers who buy the larger silver pieces instead of spending their money on gold,” adds Alexis Dove. “I think this is also a great opportunity for designers to interest new customers to their jewellery.”

It’s a thought that’s echoed by Daisy Knights: “I think the price difference between silver and gold is so considerable that it’s a completely different sort of customer buying silver now,” she says.

Which sort of leads to the fact that not everyone holds the view that gold prices

Thomas Sabo

The designer view Jewellery designers who sell directly to the consumer, as well as to the trade, clearly have a very particular perspective on the market. “Our customers covet the look of luxury gold but at the silver price – because of the financial climate they’re more cautious with their purchases,” says Dan Dower of Dower & Hall. “Our silver collections continue to be our best sellers, but more recently we’ve done incredibly well with vermeil pieces.”

Dessy Toslova from Deci jewellery has noticed the same reaction. “Many clients can no longer afford to buy gold so easily so they have switched to buying gold-plated silver items and buying more often,” she says. She also feels that the move to silver has created a shift in the consumer mindset as to how and why they buy jewellery. “I see customers buying more often and more fun pieces,” she explains. “Equally this has affected how they buy gold pieces – less often yet now they might spend more than before on something bigger, bolder and more classic that will stand the test of time.”

prefer the colour and lustre of silver so they are not concerned with the price of gold jewellery.” British designer Rachel Galley agrees. “I think there is always a market for silver jewellery no matter the price of gold or silver,” she says. “Silver is a commodity – now more than ever – so people are investing in it in the way they used to invest in gold. Everyone has their own skin tone, style and preference as to the colour of the metal.”

Fope

should inevitably affect silver sales. Zoe Urmacher, sales director of Fable Trading which distributes Troll Beads in the UK, believes that a customer wants either gold or silver and would not necessarily buy the one because of the rise in price of the other.

It’s a view also held by Moesgaard: “The market segments are very different and relate very much to regional traditions,” she says. As Stock remarks: “Many consumers

Sheila Fleet

The price of silver

Sian Bostwick

44 The Jeweller July 2012

Having said all of the above, it is not as though silver has been immune to the vagaries of pricing. The figures might not have been quite so eye-watering as those of gold, but the cost of silver over the past year or so has set hearts a-flutter – and not in a good way. Clearly the global brands has enabled them to cushion the blow, but in general price is a tricky area.

“The last year or so has proved quite tough with periods of instability and large silver

| Feature

Sho Fine Jewellery

price fluctuations,” says Erica Illingworth, founder and MD of Molly Brown and the recently launched Molly B Couture.

“Widespread economic uncertainty is unhelpful and with the crisis in Europe, the currency fluctuations against the dollar (in which silver is generally priced) continue to make managing price risk difficult and expensive.” Dan Dower agrees. “I’d say the situation is still volatile and consequently it’s hard to plan with any certainty – there’s still a lot of speculation of the price rising,” he says.

Debling

46 The Jeweller July 2012

CW Sellors

“As the gold price has risen, so many manufacturers are reducing gold production and increasing silver and now there’s more competition in a very tight market…”

Whatever happens in the future, thankfully the upward trend has abated somewhat recently. “After the dizzying heights of last April when silver nearly topped $50/oz it has been up and down – thankfully with an emphasis on the down,” says Emma Finney of So Jewellery. “In recent months it has continued to fall but remains on a bumpy road, keeping us all on our toes when it comes to prime buying times.” Whether one feels upbeat or gloomy about the situation, there’s a sense of resignation in the air. “The silver price still remains very high when compared with past years,” adds Vickers.

“I think the trade has accepted now that there is no going back to how it was – manufacturers and retailers alike have adjusted their business models, based on current prices.”

Rachel Galley

Feature | Designing to fit Needless to say, for many companies the rising price of metals has necessitated some judicious tweaking of designs. “With the combination of the flux in silver price and tough economic times, price is a critical element of the design process more than ever,” says Hepsie Binns of Kit Heath.

“It’s our job to ensure customers receive the best value for their money, which also includes versatility of design and confidence in the quality.”

Pandora

As Clare Goodall, head of design at Ortak points out, the price of metal will always affect jewellery design. “We see this as a challenge,” she says. “While it is obvious we need to produce lighter pieces, we strive to improve the design and never compromise on quality. Also, more imaginative design – such as mixed metal pieces, selective gold plating, enamel and cut stone – helps to compensate for the fact that gold is out of budget for many people.”

Lalique

It is interesting (and heartening) that a constructive spin can be put on a trying situation. “When times are tough and the price of materials is high, then companies and designers get creative,” says Lockwood.

“We look at this as a positive time. At Ti Sento we always try to introduce new creative elements each season, regardless of the times.” In that vein, the latest Bastian Inverun collection is also as comprehensively trend-driven as ever, with current themes such as mixed metals, pops of colour, cutout detailing, fringes of chain and textured looks all in the mix.

At Dower & Hall the feeling is that the more delicate pieces being designed now are becoming more popular as a growing trend.

“We have seen our customers’ perception of what is precious altered to the new ‘reality’ – delicate and fine is once again how they expect jewellery to be,” explains Dower. For designer Alexis Dove, whose work has tended to be on the larger side, price rises have led to a change in tactic.

“I still make the larger pendants, cuffs and necklaces, but they’re often ‘hero’ pieces and I find that I am designing more smaller items in the same ranges to give my customers more choice,” she says.

Alexis Dove

Silver trends • • • • • • • Bastian Inverun

• • Trollbeads

• • • • •

smaller, more delicate pieces cut-out and ‘lace’ designs woven, textured, twisted, beaten mixed plated for different colours gold highlights chain fringes set with coloured stones, glass, resin, enamel… set with small white diamonds forms from nature – flora and fauna, sea and landscape romantic stories and symbols – hearts, stars, roses, love-knots… vintage inspiration black stones with silver for monochrome look ancient world inspiration, including crosses and spears highlights of yellow or rose gold

The Voice of the Industry 47

| Feature

“I think the price difference between silver and gold is so considerable that it's a completely different sort of customer buying silver now.”

Baccarat

Other young designers, like Rachel Galley and Daisy Knights, along with brands like Gecko, have also had to create lighter and smaller pieces – without compromising on design – to keep entry price points at a realistic level.

There are however alternative angles on this subject. For instance, the fact that silver prices have been falling slightly of late, has encouraged Hot Diamonds to look towards more classic silver and diamond collections with less focus on gemstones. And at Lily & Lotty recent stability of prices has led to some

bolder designs for the coming season. “We find retailers like the mix of smaller and larger pieces giving a broader price range,” says Stock. While for brands like Baccarat and Lalique, bold dynamic looks are maintained thanks to show-stopping nuggets of crystal for their statement silver pieces.

For Dessy Tslova the high price of gold may have led to lighter gold pieces, but she has given herself free reign to use more metal on her silver pieces and therefore not compromising on design, as she sees it.

“People are happy to spend a lot of money

Fiorelli

Silver statistics • Strong silver investment in 2011 paved the way to a record annual average silver price, in a year that was marked by steep price volatility. At $35.12 in that year, the price was more than double the annual average price achieved in 2009 ($14.67).

• Total silver fabrication demand stood at 876.6 million ounces (MOZ) in 2011, which was down by 1.5% but still reaching its second highest level since 2000. Jewellery demand slipped to 159.8 MOZ, which was as a result of volatile prices and a weak global economic backdrop.

• Silver mine production rose by a modest 1.4%, with Mexico being the world’s largest silver producing country in 2011, followed by Peru, China, Australia and Chile.

• In 2011 scrap supply rose by 256.7MOZ driven by healthy gains in jewellery and silverware recycling on higher prices.

(The Silver Institute – the worldwide association of miners, refiners, fabricators and manufacturers)

Sarah Jordan

48 The Jeweller July 2012

• The number of silver items hallmarked by the four UK assay offices year to date: Jan to May 2011: 2,431,635 Jan to May 2012: 1,721,415 • This represents a 29% decrease in volume year on year.

• The first quarter was 35.9% down • Taking a month at a time can be misleading – as can be seen, the decline slowed in May. Figures against 2011 by month: Jan: -50.9% Feb: -24.1% March: -23.9% April: -21.5% May: -9.6 % “The exemption weight is 7.78 grams, which is relatively heavy. Our expectation is that the underweight articles, which don’t need hallmarking won’t have seen such a big decrease. The rise in silver prices has definitely encouraged people to take a bit of weight out so they can still hit the same price points and also avoid having to hallmark it if possible.“ Marion Wilson, marketing director, The Birmingham Assay Office

CONTACT: +44 (0) 20 77 20 97 25 UK@THOMASSABO.COM

WWW.THOMASSABO.COM

| Feature heavy, large and bold designs “to catch the eye and stand out in the window“ – while keeping prices competitive. At Georg Jensen raw material price plays a bigger role now in product development, which means the price issue forms part of the designer’s brief. “This should not be something that has a negative influence on the design, but should be seen as a natural parameter,“ says Moesgaard.

Ethical silver?

Compared to gold and diamonds, the issue of ‘ethical’ silver is rarely raised – either among trade or consumers. Which isn’t to

Dower & Hall

Ti Sento

on silver jewellery as long as the design justifies the price and the piece looks different to the usual jewellery made in the far east,” she says. While Fope is finding a growing interest in its new silver with palladium alloy among women who love the iconic meshlook Twin designs but also want to buy it in more everyday, less expensive versions than the original gold. The line has now grown to include earrings, rings and necklaces.

Then there are those who refuse to let price affect their original ethos. “The Lapponia designers have maintained their commitment to bold and striking designs for which they’ve won much acclaim over five decades,” says Vickers. Similarly, Breuning – also with the advantage of having its own factory – has made a point of keeping some

“People are happy to spend a lot of money on silver jewellery as long as the design justifies the price and the piece looks different”

Lapponia

50 The Jeweller July 2012

Mirpuri

say that no-one cares – many manufacturers and designers state that they insist that their own suppliers comply with the various standards set by the industry in general.

Having recently switched its collection to Argentium, which is completely recycled silver, Kit Heath is, says Hepsie Binns, acknowledging that this is “an important purchasing criteria for some retailers and consumers“. However the area is still a little woolly and while consumer interest in ethical jewellery is growing, it is not, as yet, being applied to silver and there are no industrywide rules to follow.

Ethical jeweller Greg Valerio admits that there’s not much to report on the subject… but it’s coming. “One hundred per cent recycled is the best option. What we do need is an ISO standard over the process and this will be coming out of our recommendations to the industry from the ethics working group at the IJL in September,“ he explains. When this does happen, it can only add to the appeal of silver and the sense that it has its own story – just like gold – and is engaging with the customer.

www.bastian-inverun.com

German design since 1974

bastian GmbH & Co. KG 路 Phone: +49 (0)421 33 85 - 555 路 E-Mail: info@bastian-inverun.com

Come and experience our new Collections Fall/Winter 2012: www.bastian-group.com

WWW.MARC-O-POLO.COM

Diamonds – what on earth is happening?

In this two-part feature, Greg Valerio looks at diamonds and unravels some of what he sees as the endemic confusion that exists around the politics of the stones. am always very aware that this is a deeply uncomfortable subject for most jewellers, who feel ill equipped to deal with consumer questions around conflict diamonds. The complexity of the problem is embedded in the international politics of the diamond trade, the structural relationships between the principle parties – the World Diamond Council (WDC), the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS), the Civil Society Organisations and nation states – how they all interact to govern the flow of ‘rough diamonds’ and the differing expectations that all the parties have in regards to what the KPCS should be achieving. The WDC, established in 2000, is the body responsible for overseeing and implementing the Inter Governmental Process for the export and import of rough diamonds. The KPCS was established as the customs procedure to control the flow of rough diamonds from one state to another. Only states that were deemed free from conflict were given permission to export their diamonds.

The deficit that has contributed to the recent erosion of the credibility in the KPCS

I

52 The Jeweller July 2012

stems from the lack of agreement within the KPCS criteria regarding human rights issues and how this definition is outworked.

The member countries cannot agree on human rights in general (i.e. China and America) never mind the question of whether they should be included into what some consider to be a purely ‘customs procedure’.

Can a diamond mined and exported from a country with systemic human rights violations be classified as a blood diamond?

ers is a well documented reality, yet these stones are called ‘conflict free’. Morality says they are conflict, the politics of money says they are not. This early mistake in the KPCS foundation created the ambiguity that has in turn been exploited by less principled actors in the diamond supply chain.

In truth, when the KPCS was established, the founders were dealing with a situation where diamonds were being used by rebel armies to overthrow legitimate governments.

They never envisaged a situation where an actual government would be perpetrating the human rights violations, as in the case of Zimbabwe. The recent imprisonment of Charles Taylor by the International Criminal Court in The Hague for his part in the diamond wars in Sierra Leone, reminds us that the conflict diamonds story is never far from the headlines.

Equally the lack of a permanent secretariat has only compounded the inertia; as the WDC and KPCS have become a reactionary fire-fighting agency, rather than a pro-active weapon against corruption, human rights violations. They simply did not have the capacity to fulfil their principal mandate of protecting the diamond supply chain from blood diamonds.

In the global economy of diamonds, the disconnect between the source of our stones and the trigger to purchase for the consumer has inadvertently allowed this problem to develop as the market narrative is never about source issues, it is always about emotion and aspiration. And no one aspires to be a human rights abuser or wants to be seen to sanction it. This current disconnect exposes the entire diamond supply chain to the chill winds of devaluation through negative human rights stories.

When the KPCS was established, the founders were dealing with a situation where diamonds were being used by rebel armies to overthrow legitimate governments. They never envisaged a situation where an actual government would be perpetrating the human rights violations…

Some countries say yes, others say no.

The case of Zimbabwean police and private security forces employed by state-owned mining companies in Marange, arresting, beating, torturing and killing small-scale min-

The current inertia within the WDC and KPCS, and the destructive arguments between the consuming countries (western) and the source and manufacturing countries (Africa, India, China) is an exercise in abstract

Ethical Jeweller | futility, when viewed through the lens of market forces.

The hard facts demonstrate that you cannot divorce source from end consumer. They all work on the same economic continuem.

Two hundred million carats are mined every year, of which 50 per cent goes industrial at

upon the WDC to impress upon its members that if the diamonds lose their inherent value through negative human rights stories, they will have no business.

The vulnerability of diamonds to negative messages is enshrined in the veracity of its economic structure. In my opinion the historic

The historic diamond brand narrative that ‘a diamond is a girl’s best friend’ and ‘ a diamond is forever’ is no longer strong enough to maintain the mirage that everything is rosy in the diamond garden. three dollars per carat, the rest to gem at an average of $50 a carat. In fact the true measure is that 90 per cent of the global value of diamonds is carried in less than 10 per cent of the production, all of which is gem value and exclusively brought by consumers. This short exercise in numbers proves the mining and manufacturing countries are dependent on the consumer perception of the diamond as a worthwhile and untainted product. It is incumbent

diamond brand narrative that ‘a diamond is a girl’s best friend’ and ‘ a diamond is forever’ is no longer strong enough to maintain the mirage that everything is rosy in the diamond garden.

In my second article I will examine the positive words emerging from the recent WDC KPCS meeting in Vicenza and ask ‘Is the Kimberley process going to rediscover its ‘mojo’, or continue to play politics with the future of our industry?

Greg Valerio is founder of CRED Jewellery, the UK’s leading Fair Trade Jewellery company, the architect of Fairtrade Fairmined Gold and co-founder of Fair Jewellery Action, a human rights and environmental network of jewellers in over seven countries. http://www.hrw.org/news/2011/08/30/ zimbabwe-rampant-abuses-marangediamond-fields Figures taken from the recent Ethical Roundtable discussions on Diamonds hosted by the NAG and BJA in London on 16th March 2012.

The Voice of the Industry 53

| Opinion: John Henn

CIBJO 2012

Reports on gold-buying regulations across Europe and a startling insight into glass-filled ruby were among the highlights of this year’s CIBJO Congress for John Henn. t was inevitable, having been driven from the airport by Fangio’s grandson whose spatial awareness genes were missing, that we would be returning late to our hotel on day one to be greeted with a spectacular pile up on the Autostrada. We sat south of Vicenza for two hours while the carnage was cleared and the would-be Schumachers strolled around wondering what had gone wrong. We had just left the Mille Miglia on its route through the city – 300-plus fabulous classic cars, including supercharged Bentleys, Ferraris, Bugattis and Alfa Romeos. The excitement of seeing one after the other driving through the streets had probably fuelled their testosterone which resulted in the loss that night of one young life.

some of which we already do and some which seem almost unworkable.

The reason is that if we can put something like this in place the Government may leave us alone. In other countries gold buying was a source of untraceable cash on such a scale that something had to be done. Retailers like us, in Italy for instance, cannot sell the gold until 10 days have elapsed from the purchase – in France and Switzerland it is 30 days! People selling gold must provide photo ID that has to be recorded in a book, which is open to viewing by the police at any time. No cash shall be paid to anybody over the value of €50 in France. The police are now finding and prosecuting gangs that visit numbers of stores in a region selling goods.

Image courtesy of GIA

I

On to CIBJO though and the highlight of the Congress for me was understanding the way other European and worldwide governments regulate the ‘buying in’ of gold in their countries and how relaxed we are in the UK. Everyone will have read the recommendations of the ‘Gold Standard’ (May issue p62) and, while lots of us have signed up to it because it is the right thing to do, questions are being asked as to why we should take all these precautions,

54 The Jeweller July 2012

The 30 day rule is littered all over the world including most states in the USA, resulting in only the companies who can finance the holding of such scrap taking a stronger position in the market.

Our Gold Standard was born in the south east of England, out of the sale of stolen metals on the rather larger physical scale – railway tracks, church roofs, etc and after the dust has settled and maybe by the time you read this, it will be sympathetically adjusted

to accommodate us a little more kindly. Make no mistake, this has the support of the Association of Chief Police Officers, and Trading Standards, so it won’t be watered down – far from it. By appearing to be better at what we do, when this is rolled out nationwide, those that don’t want to join will lose the public support leaving the playing field open to those of us who do represent the more honest among the nation.

We also learnt other fascinating facts. Glass filled ruby coming on the market is more glass than ruby. When the glass is removed there is nothing more than a pile of red corundum granules left – watch out for cheap rubies, you have been warned. Also that the gemstone of the Beijing Olympics, a red feldspar, was reportedly natural, but the amount distributed at the time exponentially exceeded the world’s available stock. The Responsible Jewellery Council has launched its voluntary chain of custody programme for gold and platinum, audited by third parties.

Metalor has become the first company to be certified under the new scheme. Plus, remember the Dodd Frank Act from the USA I talked about last year in Porto, well it has been gaining momentum. This is an Act that affects some 6,000 public companies in the USA who make products we use every day using tin, tantalum, tungsten and gold in their manufacture. They will have to prove that their raw materials didn’t originate from the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Whether this is good or bad for the people of the Congo is questionable, but one thing for sure is that the leopard is not about to change its spots – so expect some price increases in US-based technology hardware in 2013. On the other hand South Africa has started to manufacture 5ct gold jewellery, which is a quality you are unlikely to see here anytime soon.

Finally, spare a thought for the road builders in Sri Lanka, who were finishing building a new highway in the south of the country when, just as they were knocking off one Friday afternoon, someone unbeknown to them found a sapphire in amongst the cleared rock. The photo here shows the road after the weekend. There is now a happy farmer after the authorities have divided the area into around 50 mining plots, which were auctioned in late February this year. The road builders had to start all over again…

The Executive Development Forum.

Feel the benefits!

What’s it all about?

Simple!

You have the jewellery knowledge so we concentrate on business development and improvement. Always bearing in mind the special nature of the sector and that each business is unique.

We share, we learn, we improve and we realise real business improvement.

Why not you?

The EDF members are keen to improve their businesses and they do!

Just like you they have challenges, skills, management issues and limited time to cover the multitude of tasks in running a jewellers. But most of all they are determined to win!

Why don’t you join them and share in their success?

WIIFM! That inevitable question – What’s in it for me?

Well for a start you are losing the isolation many independents feel; you are part of a supportive community.

You can benchmark your performance against the best. You are exposed to specialists and services specific to your type of business.

You gain a massive amount of information and a range of diverse opinions which stimulate business improvement.

EDF

,_LJ\[P]L +L]LSVWTLU[ -VY\T

So what…

Look, we could go on for hours extolling the virtues of the EDF and still not answer that one question that you want to ask. So we won’t.

But that doesn’t answer your burning question. So pick up the phone and talk to Amanda on 020 7613 4445 who will give you all the information you need.

| Insurance Matters

125 years of cover If experience equates to expertise then TH March is your company. The leading insurance broker this year celebrates a milestone 125 years in the business. he long established broker has been a favourite of the jewellery trade since Tommy March, the son of a diamond merchant, set the company up in 1887.

Seeing a gap in the market, Tommy decided that he could make more money from selling insurance than jewellery and in the years following its set up, TH March became a recognisable name to the jewellery trade.

From the outset the main focus of the business was covering jewellery trade risks and early on it was the leading broker in the industry, regularly promoting its services in trade magazines including Watchmaker Jeweller, Silversmith and Optician.

By 1906, Tommy had established links with the NAG and TH March became the Association’s official insurance broker, marking the start of the (to date) 106 year relationship. Tommy set up a Block Policy for the NAG’s rapidly growing membership.

Within the first year, the NAG partnership proved a success as TH March insured the stocks of 29 jewellers for figures of £10,000 or more – then a substantial sum – and the company provided cover for members in cities across the UK. To this day, as the official NAG brokers, TH March arranges Block Polices for the vast majority of members. All of the first Block Polices were underwritten at Lloyd’s and this too is a connection which has been maintained over the years.

T

After a decade of success TH March became a limited company in 1911 and Tommy was joined by Frederick Ferraro, who two years later became company secretary. In 1920 Tommy March passed away and Ferraro continued to expand the business but it was not until Tommy’s widow died in 1947 that he gained control of the company.

Post war, a crime wave hit the country and a new criminal class emerged which saw jewellers as an easy target. Those retailers at the time, despite the efforts of TH March, were ill-prepared to combat this crime wave and soon enough they began to see big losses. Roger Ferraro and Ron Mumford, TH March MD at the time, did everything they could to foster security. Mumford became a founding member of the Association of Burglar Insurance Surveyors for which he raised awareness to jewellers by highlighting their poor security efforts. These steps received a positive response from jewellers and led TH March to setting up regional offices throughout the country.

The company has come a long way from its small beginnings. In 1907 the premiums paid to Tommy March amounted to £6,410 and in 1960 the total income of the company was £60,000 and there were 14 staff. By last year with 98 staff, the turnover had risen to a figure nearing £30m. Today,

TH March is able to offer a raft of insurance policies with jewellers block polices still at the core of what it does. TH March is still proud to be the appointed broker to the NAG as well as to the Giftware Association and the British Jewellers Association. In 2011, having satisfied rigorous criteria relating to professionalism, capability and ethics, TH March achieved the prestigious status of Chartered Insurance Broker; the industry’s gold standard award.

Some landmark changes at TH March this year have included the launch of a specialised Jewellery Designer Makers insurance policy, the retirement of MD Michael Ferraro after 40 years and the promotion of long term employee and former sales and marketing director, Neil McFarlane, who has taken over the reins as Managing Director.

To find out more about the services offered

by TH March visit: www.thmarch.co.uk

Don’t miss out on our bumper IJL preview issue!

A complete roundup of all the news and events from the show including the latest collections, plus all your regular favourites.

Hurry! For editorial contributions contact editor Belinda Morris at: bmorris@colony.co.uk For advertising opportunities call Ian Francis on 020 7613 4445 or email him at: ian@jewellers-online.org

56 The Jeweller July 2012

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

September ODL courses now enrolling Want to study gemmology on your own terms?

Study our courses from your own home or workplace. You will receive an instrument kit, a selection of stones, comprehensive course notes and access to your online study group*.

Gemmology Foundation 6 August 2012 – January 2013 (Fast track) 10 September 2012 – June 2013 Course fee: £1,820 £2,150 (including UK lab class) Dates:

Gemmology Diploma Dates: 3 September 2012 – June 2013 Course fee: £2,050 £2,650 (including UK lab class)

If you are a NAG Member quote NAG2012 when booking. For more information visit our website at www.gem-a.com or email education@gem-a.com *Access to a computer and internet connection essential.

Understanding gems The Gemmological Association of Great Britain 27 Greville Street (Saffron Hill entrance), London EC1N 8TN tel: +44 (0)20 7404 3334 fax: +44 (0)20 7404 8843 email: information@gem-a.com web: www.gem-a.com UK Registered Charity No. 1109555

| Antique Jewellery

Antique JEWELLERY Greeks bearing gifts As we enter the first month of the 2012 Olympic Games, it seems fitting to look at the cultural significance of jewellery in Ancient Greece.

Surprisingly, unlike the modern games where athletes are awarded gold, silver and bronze medals, the Ancient Greeks simply gave out wreaths made of olive branches to the winners. Second and third place didn’t count – everyone else was just a loser! By Amy Oliver.

The Materials Ancient Greek jewellery from the Minoan/ Mycenaean Era (3000-1450 BC) through to the Hellenistic period (375-27 BC) was dominated by gold. Sheet metal was most commonly used to prevent the waste associated with casting, with wax or sand poured into tubular jewellery to prevent misshaping. Filigree, granulation and spiralling

Jewellery on chryselephantine statue of Artemis, Delphi Museum, Greece

58 The Jeweller July 2012

techniques were first used after 2000 BC and were used to great effect, particularly on earrings, pendants, necklaces and bracelets.

Gold was not the only metal used within the industry – however, it was the dominant metal as there were many natural gold deposits both on mainland Greece and on the Greek islands. Gold was mined in Arcadia, parts of Macedonia and Thrace and

on the islands of Thalos, Crete, Sifnos and Skiros and could also be obtained from neighbouring Eastern Europe and Asia Minor through trade. The only time in which the production of gold jewellery and objects diminished in Ancient Greece was during the Dark Age (1,100-900 BC), when the Mycenaean civilisation collapsed.

Bronze, silver, alloys and even lead were also used to make jewellery. The latter was often used to create small metal plaques depicting figures, while bronze and silver jewellery took the same form as that of the gold jewellery. Gemstones – such as chalcedony, jasper, agate, emerald, sardonyx, cornelian, amber and pearl – were used to embellish designs. However, jewels weren’t as popular in Ancient Greece as they were in other Mediterranean and Asian cultures.

Recurring motifs The motifs of Ancient Greek jewellery vary with each age. During the Minoan and Mycenaean period, floral depictions were common, but marine motifs (especially fish and dolphins) were a defining design – which is hardly surprising given that the Minoan civilisation developed on the island of Crete in the Mediterranean Sea and the sea would have played an important role in everyday life providing food, work and trade for the people.

On mainland Greece during the Archaic and Classical periods, blossoms and flowers such the lotus, lily and palm leaf were particular favourites for women’s jewellery.

Many of these floral motifs have religious connotations – for example, the rose or rosette represented Aphrodite, the goddess of love and sex while conversely the lily signified innocence and chastity and is most closely associated with Hera, queen of the gods. Seeds and fruits, especially the pomegranate, were common decorative motifs for women’s jewellery as they represented fertility and fecundity. These would have been most apt to give to a young bride as a wedding gift, or to a mother upon the birth of a child. Rather confusingly however, the pomegranate was also seen as ‘the fruit of death’, thanks to the story of Persephone, who was abducted

by Hades, the god-king of the underworld, and became the queen of the underworld after eating seven pomegranate seeds while in the Shades (the underworld).

Antique Jewellery |

Example of the ‘Herakles Knot’ in jewellery, from the Ukraine, 300 BC

From the 4th century BC onwards one of the most pervading and common designs was the ‘Heraklian Knot’ or ‘Love Knot’.

It was a symbol of marriage and given to wives and brides to represent strength in union. These knots started out as knots on bridal clothing that the groom would untie, but soon the tradition became symbolic and immortalised in jewellery. Pendants and earring representing amphorae (storage jars for water, wine and oil) were popular for brides as they represented the domestic life of the soon-to-be wife.

Animal motifs were very popular too, particularly those associated with strength like lions and bulls; agricultural animals such as goats, rams and deer, and marine animals – all of these represented the food sources

Social Standing So, who wore all this ornate jewellery? Well, it wasn’t an everyday thing. The kind of jewellery I’ve described would only have been worn on special occasions such as religious festivals, weddings, funerals and games and only by the highest ranking types as they were the only ones who could afford it. The more ornate, the more wealthy and powerful you were. Simple.

From the 4th century BC onwards, jewellery was also worn mostly by women.

Much like some people’s perception in the recent past, lots of jewellery on a man was seen as effeminate and unmanly (sorry guys), therefore the jewellery represented the social standing of the woman’s husband or father and family as well as that of the

Lots of jewellery on a man was seen as effeminate and unmanly, therefore the jewellery represented the social standing of the woman’s husband or father and family as well as that of the woman herself. and working life of the Greeks. Some animals represented certain gods and goddesses: the eagle was the symbol of Zeus, the peacock the symbol of Hera and so on.

Mythological creatures were also popular: griffins, sphinxes, the python, sirens etc.

Later in the 3rd century pendant earrings and necklaces with the images of doves, or the gods Eros (god of desire) and Nike (goddess of strength, speed and victory) were also jewellery-chest must-haves.

woman herself. Females in Ancient Greece, barring those from Sparta, had few rights.

They could not own property (there are some exceptions, but property usually passed down the male line), had no political sway and were always in the guardianship of a man. Higher status women didn’t actually leave their houses much at all – they had servants to shop for them, and were not allowed to be outside without a male escort.

Necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets (two at a time) would all be worn on special occasions, but the main adornment for a wealthy Greek woman could be found on her head. Hairstyles and the ornamentations that went with them defined your social standing: all Greek women wore their hair long, and the wealthier you were, the more complex your hairstyle. Hair was curled, waved and preened into conical shapes, then decorated with gold and silver ribbons, pins and tiaras set with gems such as emeralds, garnets, cornelian, banded agates, sardonyx, chalcedony and crystal.

The lower levels of society may have worn jewellery, but it would have been less ornate or made of lower-value metals.

Who made all these adornments? Well, jewellery manufacturing in Ancient Greece was generally a family trade, passed from father to son. The jewellers were often short sighted (a family trait) due to the fine and intricate craftsmanship without the use of a lens. They would have been highly regarded artisans and tradesman (the middling sort), and had their own workshops at home.

Religion “Khrysos (gold) is a child of Zeus; neither moth nor rust devoureth it, but the mind of man is devoured by this supreme possession.”

Pindar, 5th century BC. The second half of these musings by the great Greek poet Pindar (522–443 BC) still holds true today. However, rather than see the obsession with gold as a human failing, then it was seen to be caused by the gold itself working on the human mind. It’s important to realise when looking at ancient cultures that religion and its practices were much more a part of everyday life for the ancients than for us. There were gods, goddesses, spirits and daemons for almost every aspect of human life; from the Oak wreath, Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum, 4th century BC

The Voice of the Industry 59

| Antique Jewellery block-printed writing on them – supposedly ‘magical text’. These amulets would have been kept on the person as a protection from evil spirits or bad fortune. They would have also been dedicated to a god or goddess. A fantastic example from the 6th century BC is a golden amulet tablet with a magical invocation to the god Apollo (no-one knows what for though!).

It wasn’t just people wearing the jewellery.

As in Mesopotamia, the Greeks also put jewellery, such as necklaces, earrings, bracelets and wreathed headdresses of gold, on statues of the gods and goddesses, particularly chryselephantine statues (statues made of gold and ivory on a wooden frame).

The statue of Artemis from the temple at Delphi is a brilliant example of this practice – she has a necklace with embossed spirals and wave patterns and beautiful rosetteshaped earrings of gold sheet.

Macedonian funeral wreath, 4th century BC

Jewellery was frequently dedicated at temples, shrines and sanctuaries… Not above a bit of bribery, the worshippers would have hoped that the more valuable the offering, the more favourably the god would look upon them. obvious such as Ares the god of war, to minor and much more specific deities like Lyssa, the spirit of rabies in animals! Khrysos is the spirit or daemon of gold – not a god, but more the embodiment and personification of gold itself.

As mentioned, jewellery in Ancient Greece could represent wealth and social standing within the community, which is why jewellery was frequently dedicated at temples, shrines and sanctuaries by people

Stunning example of Greek goldsmithing skill and animal motifs with double-headed snake design, 5th-4th century BC

60 The Jeweller July 2012

wanting either to thank a god for helping them, or praying to a god to help them now.

Not above a bit of bribery, the worshippers would have hoped that the more valuable the offering, the more favourably the god would look upon them.

We can learn a lot about the Ancient Greek culture from the type of jewellery that was pledged. A good example of jewellery dedications was found in Athens at the site of the Temple of Asklepios, the Greek god of healing. His shrine (called the Askepieion) was built on the southern slopes of the Acropolis in about 420 BC, and excavated by the Greek Archaeological Service from 1875 to 1876.

Unsurprisingly most of the jewellery was dedicated by women and much of it took the form of small pieces of bronze, gold, and silver stamped into the shape of body parts – eyes, ears, a leg, a hand, and even what appears to be a vulva. These pieces, while being valuable, would also have helped the god focus on a specific health problem the person was having.

Other types of jewellery with religious connotations are amulets. These were often small rectangular tablets with inscribed or

Athenian gold granulation diadem with eagle of Zeus, 7th century, National Archaeological Museum of Athens

Jewellery and the afterlife A lot of jewellery from this period in history has come from tombs. It seems that the Ancient Greeks, among many other ancient cultures, believed that wealth could be taken with you into the afterlife. While much of the jewellery recovered from tombs appears to have been pieces worn during the lifetime of the deceased, there is also evidence of pieces being made specifically for the burial.

In Athens, the tomb of a wealthy woman contained an elaborate set of gold looped earrings from which hung highly decorated golden pomegranates – the infamous, apposite and aforementioned ‘Fruit of Death’.

~

For Sale ~ Stock Control and Accounting Software For Retail, Manufacturing and Wholesale Jewellers

Streamline your Processes and Reduce Administration Improve Customer Service and Increase Productivity Attract More Business and Manage Growth ´(QFRUH -HZHOOHUV LV WKH FRPSOHWH SDFNDJH IRU WKH -HZHOOHU\ LQGXVWU\ µ

High quality jewellery display cabinets Wall display, free standing units, tall wall cabinets, window box style display and serving counters.

Finished in white walnut and brushed chrome, all with interior low voltage cool lighting. Units are as new and cost approx £36,000. No reasonable offer refused. Ideal for re-fit or new boutique style shop.

Call Chris on 02920 231244 or email: chris@christophergeorgejewellers.co.uk

´7KH LQIRUPDWLRQ WKDW \RX FDQ JHW RXW RI WKH V\VWHP DW WKH SXVK RI D EXWWRQ LV IDQWDVWLFµ

Contact us to find out more or arrange a demo 01403 259551 www.anagramsystems.co.uk Providing Software Solutions Since 1980

Don’t let your dead stock Rest In Peace… …exchange it for a new wedding ring collection!

Don’t let your dead stock just ‘Rest In Peace’ – use it to help purchase one of Palmun’s exciting new wedding ring collections today.

Get better than scrap value for your dead stock Freshen up your wedding ring collection Select from our gents and ladies wedding rings in 9k gold, 18k gold, platinum and palladium Try a programme of half and full eternity rings Complete the range with our best-selling sparkle collection For more information about this great offer or to arrange an appointment, please contact our sales team on 020 7511 9091 or 077 8780 5599.

· · · · ·

Palmun Limited, G15 Waterfront Studios, 1 Dock Road, London E16 1AG T: 020 7511 9091 • F: 020 7511 9594 E: sales@palmun.com • www.palmun.com

The Voice of the Industry 61

| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago by Anne Richter & Bruce Carpenter (£70, Thames & Hudson on behalf of Editions Didier Millet) A huge and weighty tome, this book features more than 700 pieces of gold tribal, ethnic and courtly body adornment of the various islands and communities throughout Indonesia, that have been made available by the Mandala Foundation. The history of gold jewellery of the area is covered, as is the mythology, symbolism and significance of the various forms, shapes and motifs –

each island or community being different from another. Detailed captions accompany the clear colour photos of pieces – from earrings and pendants, to amulets, bangles and cuffs – which demonstrate the very many jewellery-making techniques (granulation, filigree, cut-work, weaving, plaiting…) of the islands’ craftsmen over the centuries.

Inspirational.

Sales & Exhibitions

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

July Current-27th October: Pop! Design. Culture.

Fashion, Fashion & Textile Museum, London Celebrating the impact of music, art and celebrity on 20th century fashion – from rock ’n’ roll to punk. www.ftmlondon.org

July 20th-23rd: New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show, Metropolitan Pavilion, NY Dealers from Europe as well as the US showing top brands as well as pieces from all periods. Trade and consumer. www.newyorkantiquejewelryand watchshow.com

13th July-21st October: Catherine the Great, National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh.

An exploration of Catherine’s reign through her collections of art and jewellery. www.nms.ac.uk Cameo ring of Catherine The Great, from The State Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg

Diamond Street: The Hidden World of Hatton Garden, by Rachel Lichtenstein (£20, Hamish Hamilton) The second in a trilogy of London street books (On Brick Lane came first, a study of Portobello Road will follow) this thorough unveiling of Hatton Garden should surely be required reading for anyone in the jewellery industry. The author is not only

August 2nd-3rd: Australian Opal Exhibition, Queensland Opals and opal jewellery. www.austopalexpo.co.au 16th-23rd: Ireland Jewellery Showcase, Cork, Dublin & Belfast Three two-day events bringing together highend jewellery manufacturers, wholesalers and associated technology and service suppliers. www.irelandjewelleryshowcase.com 23rd-27th: India International Jewellery Show, Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai Gems and jewellery. www.iijs.org

62 The Jeweller July 2012

an archivist of London streets, writer, curator and artist, she’s also connected to this community on a personal level. Her grandfather traded there before the War, her parents have a jewellery business on the street (which her husband now runs) and various aunts and uncles have worked there; it’s a place she has always known. While moving beyond the immediate street into Farringdon, Clerkenwell and Holborn, she follows the ancient perimeter of the original estate and with the help of goldsmiths, artists, geologists and… sewer flushers, explores the history of the quarter. Thanks to family ties, Lichtenstein’s behind-the-scenes access means that ancient burial sites, forgotten palaces, underground vaults as well as diamond workshops are all explored in this multilayered portrait.

September 2nd-5th: International Jewellery London, Earl’s Court, London Established jewellery manufacturers together with new young design talent, plus gemstones, jewellery services and trend seminars. www.jewellerylondon.com 8th-12th: VicenzaOro Fall, Fiera di Vicenza, Italy An international exhibition presenting gold and platinum jewellery, costume jewellery and gemstones. www.choicevent.it 19th-23rd: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, AsiaWorld Expo, Lantau Over 3,400 exhibitors from 46 countries. http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com 23rd-25th: Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn, SECC, Glasgow Now a three-day show, a range of exhibitors across the jewellery and gift sectors, from Scotland and beyond. www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

Target the industry’s key decision makers with The Jeweller magazine!

As the ‘Voice of the Industry’ The Jeweller magazine

Additionally, editorial contributions from respected

is the only trade title that enjoys the support of

people in the industry, a controlled distribution to

both UK trade associations, the National Association

NAG and BJA members, the targeting of influential

of Goldsmiths (NAG) and the British Jewellers’

industry decision makers and a competitive rate card

Association (BJA). This authoritative publication,

are all factors that keep The Jeweller one step ahead

produced by the NAG, has a 4,000+ strong circulation

of its rivals and ensure a cost-effective vehicle

with a readership of over 17,000. Published ten

for advertisers.

times a year the magazine has a broad appeal across

The Jeweller is the only

the industry for retailers, suppliers, manufacturers

publication that you need to

and designer makers with news and comments

target the people that you

from both associations.

want to do business with.

To advertise in the magazine contact sales director Ian Francis on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: ian@jewellers-online.org For subscriptions call Amanda White at the NAG on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: thejewellersubs@jewellers-online.org

T

H

E

J

E

W

E

L

L

E

R

C

L

A

S

S

I

F

I

E

D

D I S P L AY C A B I N E T Amber Jewellery

Amber Jewellery

Carrier Bags

Computer Systems

Diamonds & Gemstones

Diamond Jewellery

Special Approval Enquiries Diamond Jewellery All Styles Leslie Donn Ltd 454 Bury Old Road, Prestwich, Manchester M25 1NL

Tel: 0161 773 0000 www.donnsjewellery.co.uk

Diamond Setters

Display Illumination

Engravers Machine Engraving available on request NAG Prize Winners

Specialist lighting manufacturer with over 20 years’ experience in the illumination of jewellery, counter and showcase displays.

• Design of bespoke lighting systems is our speciality • Experienced design team work closely to compliment and showcase retailer’s products, branding and displays.

• Wide range of LED Lighting systems available to enhance silver, gold or diamonds.

For more details call our sales team on tel: 0161 207 3355 or visit our new website at: www.display-lighting.com

Traditional hand engraving service at its best.

Competitive price structure with fast delivery and turnaround.

Pearls

Pearl Restringing

•

Gemstones

MASTERS Hand Engravers 07768 893474 info@mastersengravers.co.uk www.mastersengravers.co.uk

AGARS

(est. 1946)

• The complete restringing service

to the trade for over 60 years.

• All types of pearl & bead necklets repaired. Full insurance.

• Experience, quality and service at reasonable prices. Free quotes.

Contact Liz at Agars: 185 Wiston Road, Brighton BN2 5PT Tel/Fax 01273 245787 Email: agarspearls@gmail.com

T

H

E

J

E

W

E

L

L

E

R

C

L

A

S

S

I

F

I

E

D

D I S P L AY C A B I N E T Pearls

Pearl Restringing

Personalised Jewellery

Insignia Jewellery • Initial rings • Nameplates • Cufflinks • Tie pins

Take a look at our website to see our current offers! www.rawpearls.com Tel: 01460 281496 Member of the BJA

SPECIALIST RESTRINGING SERVICE

The oldest ‘Trade Only’ Counter (est. 1945)

Jewellery Scrap Buyers

21 pendants Plus much more!

40 years trade expertise Fully insured References available

tel:

Specialists in Personalised Jewellery 19 Highfield Road, London NW11 9LS Tel: 020 8455 8525 Fax: 020 8455 8992 Email: insigniajewellery@yahoo.co.uk

0844 801 9939

enquiries@ldrestringing.co.uk www.ldrestringing.co.uk

Precious Metal Reclamation

PRESMAN MASTERMELT

• 16, 18 &

Property To Let

Repair Services

La Sella Resort – Denia Spain Enjoy a fantastic holiday on the Costa Blanca Golf • Tennis • Horse Riding • Spa Modern 3 bedroom townhouse for hire throughout the year on the splendid 'La Sella Golf' complex, close to the coastal towns of Denia and Javea.

For more details visit www.golf-lasella.co.uk or call Toni Steele 07534 892124

Try our Free Post service Lemel & Workshop Waste Processing Integrity Transparency & Efficiency (What more do you want?)

For daily scrap prices or more info 020 7400 3400 / mastermelts.co.uk

At BQ Watches we can make it look brand NEW

We now specialise in the repair and refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Call now for a FREE Quotation

020 8731 2563

www.bqwatches.com

56 Hatton Garden, Mon-Fri 9.00am-4.00pm

Ring Mounts / Bespoke Jewellery

Sales Agents required

Shopfitting

Experienced Sales Agents All areas of England •

No 1 for Silver and Q range of Pearls and Pearl jewellery Please send your CV and details of current ranges carried to:

•

hattonmetals@yahoo.co.uk

Shopfitting NICHOLAS INTERIORS Ltd Fine Retail Solutions

T

H

Free initial survey and design to your requirements Prices to suit every budget Quality manufacturing in our own workshop Display units available for hire

tel: 0151 924 1352 email: info@nicholasinteriors.co.uk web: www.nicholasinteriors.co.uk

E

J

E

W

E

L

L

E

R

D I S P L AY CABINET

• • • •

bqw rolex specialist

Is your Rolex watch bracelet stretched and worn?

C l e a r, u n c l u t t e r e d d e s i g n One uniform size One great value price Volume discounts available Free ad design service

Only £85 per insertion!

To learn more or to make a booking in the Jeweller display Cabinet email Neil Oakford at:

neil@jewellers-online.org

Wedding Rings

| Regular

The

Last Word At the NAG’s AGM last month, Pravin Pattni was officially declared the new chairman of the Association. So it’s only fitting that we give the owner of Minar Jewellers in London the Last Word.

Personal Profile Born in Kenya, Pattni came to England in 1974 and started his business from scratch. The first shop was converted from a Gregg’s bakery to a jewellers using most of the bakery’s fixtures – a carpenter converted them into ‘jewellery counters’. After passing his FGA and DGA in 1982/3 Pattni expanded into the diamond business. He joined the NAG in 1998, first becoming a council member and then joining the Board. He served on the Valuations Committee and then became the vice chairman of the Board of Directors.

Pattni is also the Deputy Chair of the Tooting Business Network and has two shops in Tooting which he runs with his brother Mukesh Pattni.

Who has been the biggest influence on your life?

There are two people – my mother who was a true role model for hard work and discipline and my primary school teacher who said: “To succeed you have to work hard.”

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others?

Calm, friendly and reliable. I don’t know if others agree!

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over?

I would take four holidays every year – I only ever take one, maximum two To what do you attribute your success?

Having a vision, setting a goal and slowly and surely working towards that goal.

If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be?

It is a fascinating industry where you never get bored because of the creativity. If I could wave

66 The Jeweller July 2012

a magic wand I would make it very difficult for unscrupulous jewellers to operate.

What was the last film you saw at the cinema?

Slum Dog Millionaire – the movie was brilliant and I enjoyed the portrayal of the change in the fortunes of a poor boy from the Mumbai slums.

Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!) Why? I just carry the bags – this is an ideal question for my wife.

Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Goa. You are miles away from the daily chores and lying on the beach I can relax and sleep with the sound of the waves in the background.

Tell us something not many people know about you…

I was in the first hockey XI team at school, was the head prefect of 900 students and won the doubles table tennis championship in my place of birth in Kenya.

If not the jewellery industry, what might your alternative career have been?

I wanted to be a scientist or a doctor, but after the sudden death of my father there was no-one to take care of his jewellery business in Kenya. In hindsight it was a blessing in disguise – I have loved every minute of working within this fabulous industry.

Do you Tweet?

Not that I am aware of!

What is your chosen form of exercise?

I try and go to the gym three times a week Quick Fire • Red or white wine? Red • Diamonds or coloured stones?

Diamonds • White or yellow metal?

White metal • TV or radio? Radio • Jewellery on men? Yes or no?

Yes • Delegator or control freak?

When I’m not controlling, I delegate • Beatles or Rolling Stones?

Beatles • Paperback or e-reader?

Paperback

inspired by arctic beauty

BERING SLI M TITANIUM F lat T it anium- C ase and scr atch re sist ant S apphire C r y st al, M ultifunc tion, Ste el M e sh B and, 3-ye ar inter national w ar r ant y

ÂŁ 159,-

Highly Commended Fashion Watch of the year in:

N A KAL MK 9L AFL=JF9LAG F9 D B = O = D D = JQ DG F <G F *% - K = HL= E : = J * ()* KL9 F < > )+) G F L@ = : G M D = N9 J< or contact BERING Time Ltd: T: 07938705688 / hlm@beringtime.com for more info.