Jeweller June 2012

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Jeweller June 2012

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The Voice of The Industry

With input from the British Jewellers’ Association

Watches and Security special issue The increasing strength of classic and luxury timepieces All the latest innovations in security and updates on SaferGems Jewellery Week 2012 highlights and the latest news from the NAG

T.H. March were established in 1887 and are the foremost brokers for the jewellery trade – we have been helping clients insure their valued possessions for 125 years.

Whatever your needs we have the expertise to ďŹ nd the policy that gives you the conďŹ dence and peace of mind that you are properly protected. Ask us, we are here to help.

Would you like to comment?

Call us on 0207 405 0009 or visit www.thmarch.co.uk

Celebrating 125 years in business in 2012 125YofE/05/12

Contents & Contacts |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

J U N E

How Time Flies

1 2

26

A focussed offer that includes a good selection of ladies’ models, is the key to healthy watch sales,

Communiqué

4

Editor’s Letter

7

Industry News

8

NAG News

14

Member of the Month

16

Education & Training

19

IRV Review

20

BJA News

23

Brand Profile

37

Opinion: Nicholas Major

48

Antique Jewellery

58

Notebook

62

Display Cabinet

64

The Last Word

66

reports Belinda Morris

Jeweller Picks – watches

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Highlighting a selection of fashion brands and on-trend styling

Jewellery Week 2012

42

A preview of four key events of the Week, including The Jewellery Show London

Crime – working together to squash it

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Updates on SaferGems and fogging device successes, the NAG’s new Security Conference, industry advice

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

to jewellers, plus news and views

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris

Cover Image In conjunction with Maurice Lacroix Henrik Fisker wearing his Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde To become a stockist email: sabine.wittmann@mauricelacroix.de www.mauricelacroix.com

Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk BJA Marketing & PR Manager: Lindsey Straughton lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7613 4445 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian@jewellers-online.org Publishing Enquiries/ Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Miles Hoare, Nicholas Major, Amy Oliver, Stacy Simpson, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.

The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

Following his rude awakening while at the CIBJO Conference in Vicenza, Italy, CEO Michael Hoare outlines the social media inroads and new developments that the NAG has made over the past few months…

All shook up As I write these notes I am in Vicenza, Italy, with John Henn, attending the CIBJO Congress that is running alongside the Fiera Di Vicenza. To say that the last few days have been eventful would be an understatement; both in terms of the knowledge acquired, the events attended, and the decisions made. Not only do I now know more about tourmaline than is really good for me, after an intensive workshop where five eminent speakers analysed its colour spectrum, its distribution throughout the world, its chemical composition, and its detailed nomenclature, I have also witnessed another natural, but less attractive phenomenon. Ironically, the first nearly soothed me to sleep, while the latter most definitely woke me up – with a start! At 4am on Sunday 20th May to be precise. That was when an earthquake measuring 5.1 on the Richter scale struck about 22 kilometres north of Bologna, killing at least two people, and destroying many homes and historic buildings. Being too far from the epicentre to suffer any damage my hotel just took a shaking, but I now appreciate a quite different meaning to the question ‘Did the earth move for you?’

4 The Jeweller June 2012

Full reports of the CIBJO proceedings and the Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Awards that took place at the Fiera will appear in next month's issue of The Jeweller and will be online before you read these notes. Meanwhile I move on to Paris and the Annual General Meeting of the Responsible Jewellery Council, where the main concern will be finding a successor for Matt Runcie, who is about to commence his last term as chairman.

It’s good to Talk Since you are reading these words you must already be aware of The Jeweller magazine, which is published by the NAG nearly every month, supplemented by n:gauge, our online newsletter covering legal and technical issues. Chances are you probably also get the

have had cause to look at the NAG Institute of Registered Valuers or SaferGems websites from time to time.

Back in 2010 we thought it would also be a good idea to set up Facebook groups for members and students to share the good news about the Association and its training activities. The student group was an instant success, but frankly the members’ one languished in the doldrums; perhaps telling us something about the penetration of Facebook within different age profiles!

Anyway, in the intervening years we have heard more and more about social media; with all its proponents singing the praises of this wonder medium as a ‘free’ marketing resource. We remained sceptical – about the free bit anyway – and I have frequently bored anyone who was willing to listen with

We set to at the end of last year to get our ducks in a row.

As a result we now have a redesigned and revitalised student Facebook group [and] a new NAG Facebook page… odd e-bulletin promoting NAG events, plus you will all be familiar with the NAG website which, once you get past the member login, is a treasure trove of information. Others will

my argument that while the mechanisms are free, it’s the content that costs. Because unless you are a gifted writer – and few are – you need somebody to help you create

Comment | interesting, stimulating and rewarding content. Unless, that is, your objective is to bore readers into submission!

However, as a trade association our task is to build communities of interest behind the various issues we tackle – be that representation, education, security, or valuations – and so we had to add social media to our portfolio to complement all the ‘traditional’ media I mentioned before. So, after some deep thinking, and having investigated all the possible options, we set to at the end of last year to get our ducks in a row. As a result we now have a redesigned and revitalised student Facebook group; a new NAG Facebook page – having scrapped the old group; an NAG LinkedIn group, which is open to all comers who stick to the rules; an NAG blog space at http://nag-blog.org; and an NAG You Tube ‘TV Channel’. The Executive Development Forum (EDF) has its own As a trade association LinkedIn group, moderated our task is to build

by Mike McGraw, and an communities of interest NAG – IRV LinkedIn group, moderated by Sandra Page, behind the various which is shortly to appear Most of the above – with issues we tackle – the exception of EDF and be that representation, IRV – are interlinked and cascade headlines into education, security, Twitter. We’ve also taken the trouble to populate (as or valuation nobody wants to be first at any party) areas such as the blog with on-going stories and comment that we hope will stimulate debate. But why have we gone to all this bother? Partly because we believe there has to be something more than just making money – although that’s important – to stimulate interaction between existing members; to generate interest in upcoming issues and events before they happen; to attract a wider age and interest profile; and lastly, to engage people in the important debates that affect our industry, but are clouded by all the ballyhoo that surrounds aspirational merchandise.

Have we succeeded? Only time will tell! Social media is a must for a trade association, but it’s not free! Will it replace magazines like this one? I doubt it; as I believe the relationship with the reader is entirely different. One is an instant gratification ‘snack’, the other takes time to consume, like a light meal, and could be regarded as more sustaining. However, like food, it’s not a choice of ‘either/or’; variety and getting the right nutrition at the right time is key to a balanced diet. I hope you’ll choose something appetising from our menu, and will join in the debate.

Along the way, we’ve learned some lessons, met some pretty knowledgeable people, and we’ve got a few ‘top tips’ which we would be willing to share if you think social media is the way to go for your business.

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“In a storm do you build trenches or windmills?

I think the UK retailers know they will benefit from building windmills.”

It’s June. It’s Summer.

If this was a glossy fashion magazine that you had in your hands we’d be debating the comparable merits of Jackie O versus aviator sunglasses. or we’d be advising on suitable SPFs for your fortnight in the sun. As it’s The Jeweller, if it’s June we must be talking about ‘security’.

In fact we talk security, in one form or another, in every issue of the year – it’s a subject that wont go away and so can’t be ignored. As ever though, this month we devote extra pages to the topic – covering the obvious concerns, such as violent robbery, and the less obvious ones, such as deviant behaviour in the workforce.

And despite the seemingly endless media coverage of attacks on jewellers, it’s not all depressing news – the industry is fighting back. Year on year the NAG’s SaferGems initiative is proving itself to be a very effective weapon in in the fight against crime. Our Spotlight on Security on p50 reports on some recent and very welcome successes.

Another regular June feature is our focus on the watch market. Besides the fact that timepieces continue to be healthy sellers – particularly those with a strong heritage or gravitas behind them – there’s also a growing demand for, and supply of, more choice in ladies’

Page 26 “…research shows that workplace crimes associated with employee dishonesty will increase during the current economic downturn

models. And what’s wanted is more than just a pretty face.

So, finally… gorgeousness in spades is pretty much guaranteed during Jewellery Week which is just days away now. If you haven’t planned it already, book yourself out of the shop for a couple of days and get yourself down to the Capital for the various events. Before you go, turn to p42 for a preview of some of the week’s highlights. If you snooze you lose…

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 50

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| Industry News

Platinum market back into surplus ross platinum demand grew by two per cent in 2011 to 8.1 million ounces, with growth in every sector excluding investment.

In its ‘Platinum 2012’ report issued last month, Johnson Matthey Precious Metal Marketing announced that supplies increased to a four year high of 6.28 million ounces, while recycling increased to 2.05 million ounces. As a result the platinum market swung into oversupply of 430,000 ounces.

Led by China and Japan, gross platinum jewellery demand last year rose by two per cent, but growth also came from India, where the demand increased rapidly from a low base. In the second half of 2011, when platinum prices dropped and gold began to trade at a premium to platinum, there was a surge of buying by Chinese manufacturers, raising gross platinum demand. Downward movement in the platinum price helped

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improve margins for manufacturers and partly offset rising labour costs and tight credit, making it more attractive to produce platinum jewellery.

Supported by the bridal sector, platinum purchasing by the trade in Europe remained solid at 175,000 ounces. While consumer confidence remained low in many parts of Europe and spending on jewellery items generally decreased, purchases of platinum in the bridal sector remained resilient and lower prices in the fourth quarter encouraged some consumers to ‘trade up’ from white gold to platinum for wedding and engagement rings. European luxury brands continued to do very well in the high end of the market, boosting demand for platinum used in the manufacture of jewellery and watches.

By contrast, the demand for palladium jewellery fell in 2011 due to higher prices.

Purchasing of palladium by the global jewellery industry declined by 15 per cent and, says Johnson Matthey, palladium continued to suffer from a lack of positioning in the key Chinese market. Manufacturers in Europe moved to lower piece weight and lower fineness alloys to meet retail price points, therefore lowering palladium purchasing by the trade. Palladium continues to be popular in men’s wedding bands where it is offered as an alternative to white gold. It is expected that demand for palladium will remain firm in Europe in 2012.

J Fischer and Sohn

Heresy Jewels unveiled

Retail reaction to Queen’s Speech

ctress Emilia Fox was among guests who attended the launch of Heresy Jewellery Design in Bristol last month. Founded by certified gemmologist Matthew Morrell following five years of ‘research, training and planning’ Heresy aims to offer ‘a fresh approach’ to commisioning and customising fine jewellery.

“The gem and jewellery industry has traditionally been shrouded in secrecy. And the public have all-too-often been misinformed about important characteristics of their intended purchases,” he explains. “This can make buying jewellery a daunting prospect. I believe designing jewellery should be an enjoyable journey and a bit of an adventure too! I want to be a guide making it simple, informative and fun.”

Where the option exists, Heresy will offer materials sourced from suppliers who share Morrell’s ethical concerns. Before retraining as a gemmologist with HRD Antwerp, Morrell worked in journalism, public relations and corporate social responsibility. Between 2007 and 2011 he travelled extensively in Asia, north Africa and the Middle East visiting mining areas/ cutting centres and researching different cultural approaches to jewellery design and manufacture. Heresy offers a search service for rare and unusual gemstones, and antique pieces. The former are supplied with certificates from leading laboratories (GRS/Gubelin, Switzerland) and its diamonds are certified under the Kimberley Process.

K retailers were distinctly underwhelmed by the Queen’s Speech last month.

“In 2011 retailers were involved in negotiating a string of responsibility deals, were affected by changes to employment legislation and had to prepare for the implications of increased localism,” stated Stephen Robertson, director general of the British Retail Consortium.

“I find it ironic that a government that pre-election promised to cut the burden of red tape on business has introduced the possibility of even more red tape,” adds Michael Hoare, CEO of the NAG. “I recall our pre-election hustings meeting at which the only thing all three parties agreed on was the need to reduce legislation, yet I see no evidence of the promised sunset clauses and one-in-one-out policies. Robertson agrees: “For retail to contribute effectively to economic growth we need the Government to show considerably more restraint when it comes to red tape. Sadly the Queen’s Speech suggests there’s little sign of the leopard changing its spots.”

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Jewel thief convicted man has been found guilty of an armed robbery on NAG member Thurlow Champness jewellers in Bury St Edmonds. During the attack in February 2011, the gang of four men armed with sledgehammers were challenged by a 71-year old man who grabbed their bag of jewellery. The three other men are due to be sentenced at a later date. For more convictionrelated good news turn to our Security feature on p50.

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Industry News |

S N I P P E T S GIA turns digital page All the peer-reviewed research on diamonds, coloured stones and pearls presented in the Gemological Institute of America’s quarterly journal Gems & Gemology (G&G), is now available on the iPad. The new G&G app complements the journal with enhanced digital content and is downloadable for free on iTunes. The launch of this digital version makes G&G’s research accessible to a broader audience.

A ruby record

MBE for jeweller usband and wife team John Ayton and Annoushka Ducas were awarded MBEs last month for their services to the British jewellery industry. The fine jewellery company, Annoushka, was launched in 2009 and as well as concessions in stores such as Harrods and Selfridges has one boutique in Knightsbridge, with another opening in London’s South Molton Street next month.

Previously entrepreneur Ayton and designer Ducas were best known for having co-founded Links of London which grew into a global luxury brand before being sold to Folli Follie in 2006. They left the company the following year. After leaving Links, Ayton invested in the start-up business Bremont Watch Company, later becoming its chairman. He is also director of Walpole, the organisation aimed at serving and promoting British luxury brands, which also mentors and nurtures emerging talent.

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Gold marks on bonded gold banned he British Hallmarking Council has banned stand-alone gold marks on bonded gold. Ever increasing gold prices are driving significant changes in the UK fine jewellery trade, one such trend being the introduction of bonded gold and an increase in gold plated and rolled gold products coming to market. Bonded gold items are produced with a thick layer of gold alloy bonded on to a base metal or sterling silver core. The resulting article is only about 10 per cent gold alloy by weight on average, but could be easily mistaken as an all-gold item by the consumer or the retailer.

Such products have been introduced from the US where there are clear regulations for marking and describing them. However, the descriptor ‘bonded gold’ is not specifically permitted by the 1973 Hallmarking Act, which did not envisage the development of the process at the time it was drafted. Advice has been sought from the British Hallmarking Council (BHC) by Trading Standards Authorities about the use of the term ‘bonded gold’ and as to the correct way to mark such items. Official guidance has now been issued, based on the existing provisions covering rolled gold and plated gold in the 1973 Hallmarking Act. The BHC’s view is that no enforcement action should be taken in respect of the use of the term ‘bonded gold’. The BHC further stipulates that, assuming the core is 925 i.e. sterling silver, the article should carry a full silver hallmark, or a 925 stamp if it is under the hallmarking exemption weight for silver of 7.78 grams. Bonded gold on a base metal core cannot be hallmarked. No stand-alone gold fineness marks will be permitted on bonded gold articles, because they are potentially confusing and misleading to UK consumers. For full details visit: www.theassayoffice.co.uk/bonded_gold

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A 32.08 carats cushion-shaped Burmese ruby and diamond ring by Chaumet was the top lot at last month’s ‘Jewels for Hope’ sale held by Christie’s Geneva. It sold for US$6,742,4000, setting a new world record for any ruby sold at auction. The collection of Mrs Lily Safra, realised a total of US$37.9, the full proceeds going to 32 charitable institutions. Two days later Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale, also in Geneva achieved a total of US$72,264,493.

RJC update The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that over the past month the following companies have achieved certification by meeting the ethical, social and environmental standards required: Elegant Collection, Hari Krishna Exports Private Ltd and Premier Gem Corp. which brings the total to 170 certified companies. In addition Metalor USA Refining is the first refiner and company in the Council’s membership to be certified against the new RJC Chain of Custody Standard. This certification complements Metalor’s achievement last year as the first refiner to receive certification.

Bespoke diamond for Mayfair Vania Leles, who previously worked as a fine jewellery and diamond expert for Graff on Bond Street, De Beers and Sotheby’s, has brought her own brand, VanLeles Diamonds to London. The new office, close to Harrods and Harvey Nichols will allow Leles to showcase her first diamond jewellery collection Timeless Grace as well as offer a personal service to bespoke clients.

The former fashion model gained her qualifications as a gemmologist at the GIA.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

New watch repair service launched ark Sutcliffe, previously managing director of DESCO Luxury UK has launched Swiss Watch Repair, having seen a gap in the market for a service aimed at retailers and distributors of Swiss watch brands. “We were often approached at DESCO by smaller distributers asking if we could help them with their watch repairs. As a subsidiary of Maurice Lacroix, we were unable to do this, so when Maurice Lacroix moved its European operation to Germany, it seemed a logical step for the staff to now work independently, winning work from some of these brands,” he explained.

Renowned for their accuracy and reliability as well as beauty, Swiss watches can nevertheless require a repair sometimes and all great watches benefit from an overhaul at some point in order to keep oils smooth and water resistance intact. “However the expert skills and services required for these are often in short supply,” says Sutcliffe.

“A fully-equipped watch studio is expensive to fit, takes up valuable space and requires considerable expertise. Most Swiss brands specify the equipment that an official service centre should have, which can mean an investment of over £50,000 in machinery and tools alone.

Add to that the required stock of parts for each brand and we can see why many retailers and distributors of watch brands would prefer the option of subcontracting this work,” he adds.

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Goldsmiths’ appointment he Goldsmiths’ Company has a new Prime Warden – Lord Sutherland of Houndwood. One of the country’s preeminent philosophers of religion Stewart Sutherland (71) has enjoyed a long and distinguished career in academia. In recognition of his commitment to education he received a Knighthood in 1994 and was subsequently invested with the Order of the Thistle in 2003. Lord Sutherland joined the Goldsmiths’ Company in 1987, was elected to the Livery in 1991 and to the Court of Assistants in 2000 and has been a long serving member of the Company’s Education Committee.

Lord Sutherland said: “I am looking forward to my year as Prime Warden. We live in challenging times which makes the Company’s educational and charitable initiatives even more pertinent. In addition the Company’s commitment and responsibility towards its trade and industry remain at its core, as has been demonstrated by the considerable investment in the new Goldsmiths Centre which was officially opened in April. While demanding, this is nonetheless an exciting time to be Prime Warden of such an august and proactive Company.”

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Van Cleef & Arpels in China OCA the Museum of Contemporary Art in Shanghai is playing host to ‘Van Cleef & Arpels, Timeless Beauty’, a heritage exhibition, which will be shown until 15th July 2012. Spanning over 100 years of history, the exhibition will show jewellery, watches, and precious accessories, as well as archive drawings and documents from the place Vendôme Maison. For the first time in China, more than 370 pieces gathered from the Maison’s Collection and from private French and International owners will be on display.

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10 The Jeweller June 2012

S N I P P E T S Crown Jewels auctioned No, not the real ones silly…! Just a replica of the Imperial State Crown, which has been created in Diamonique

by QVC and will be auctioned to raise money for Breast Cancer Care in October.

The ultimate accessory for any fashion queen features 2,276 simulated diamond stones set in silver. The piece is valued at £10,528. The real Imperial State Crown is an exact replica of an earlier model made for Queen Victoria.

Jubilee commemorative bars Cookson Gold is celebrating the Jubilee with limited edition precious metal bars. The 5gm hallmarked bars struck in solid silver or 9ct yellow gold have been created especially for the occasion and are available exclusively to Cookson customers. Each comes in a presentation box.

Cornerstone goes live Cornerstone, the jewellery brand/project created by designer Paul Spurgeon in collaboration with Soweto-based jewellery maker Nqobile Nkosi has launched a website.

Designed and constructed by a young web designer, also in Soweto, the site explains the ethos behind Cornerstone and showcases the full collection. www.cornerstonedesigns.co.za Members for Hallmarking Council The Secretary of State for Business, Innovation and Skills is seeking four new members to join the British Hallmarking Council.

Applications are open to anyone with the relevant skills and experience to assist the BHC. The new members will serve for a term of three years, starting from 1st January, 2013. There are two vacancies for members with experience in the precious metal trade or manufacturing, either from the bespoke or mass produced jewellery market or from retailing, and two for persons either with consumer expertise, or independents with relevant experience. The closing date for applications is Monday 25 June 2012.

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| Industry News

New creative director appointed at Rox lasgow-based jewellery retailer Rox has appointed scottish designer Marc Ross as creative director for the store. The new position will see the 27 year old, who trained with Vivienne Westwood, taking responsibility for all creative aspects of the business, ranging from branding and visual concepts to the design and development of the Rox Silver collection. Ross has also designed a new bespoke uniform for Rox’s 60 sales consultants: a dress with a strong focus on silhouette and with a neckline structured to allow necklaces to be modeled for customers. “Marc’s talents transfer incredibly well into the jewellery industry and we believe that he has the potential to create collections as beautiful and diverse as talented jewellery artisans like Shaun Leane and Theo Fennell,” said Kyron Keogh, MD of Rox which has four branches in Scotland.

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Torgoen partners RAF atch brand Torgoen Swiss has formed a partnership with the Royal Air Force Typhoon 2012 Display Team as its official watch supplier. All members of the flying squad will wear a limited edition T16302 chronograph made to commemorate the partnership.

“Torgoen Swiss was created as an aviation brand, so this tie-up with the RAF Typhoon Display Team is a perfect fit for us and the fearless attitude of the pilots embodies the brand’s Nothing’s Impossible strapline,” says Peter Carmichael of Since 1853 Ltd, official UK distributor for the brand.

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First collection for diamond setter fter working at the bench for the past 25 years, diamond setter Jamie Coulston has launched his own jewellery collection and brand name. Beau Diamond (named for his daughter and for the shape of his designs) the line now includes an as-yet one-off special piece created to celebrate the Jubilee.

Created in sterling silver the statement cocktail ring is set with around 300 CZ stones. The main collection (a favourite of singer Pixie Lott) includes platinum-plated silver and CZ earrings, rings and pendants, all featuring the diamond silhouette. For futher details visit: www.beaudiamond.com

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S N I P P E T S IJL jumps to it IJL’s UK sales executive Michael Heywood has announced he will be doing a charity sky dive just before this year’s event opens.

He is taking on the brave challenge to raise money for Retail Trust, the only charity that looks after the needs of all three million people working in retail, and the children’s charity Together for Short Lives. The sky dive is taking place on 25th August, ahead of IJL 2012 which runs from 2nd-5th September at Earls Court 2.

Jubilee Wedding Salon To celebrate the Diamond Jubilee, as well as the company’s own 60th anniversary, Burlington Arcade jeweller Richard Ogden has transformed its Ring Room into a Wedding Salon for visitors to the Arcade.

The one-stop bridal venue will showcase faux gem tiaras by Andrew Prince as well as Richard Ogden’s own engagement rings and wedding bands. Also in the salon will be wedding gowns and accessories, Penhaligon fragrances, sparkling wines and wedding cakes. The redecorated Salon will be open from 6th - 9th June.

Award for Beaverbrooks Scottish branches of Beaverbrooks have been named number one Medium/Large Workplace in Scotland at this year’s Scotland’s Best Workplaces Awards, which took place in April. The awards recognise outstanding businesses where staff ‘give their personal best and work together as a team in an environment of trust’.

Beaverbrooks was commended for its longstanding work with charity, as well as cultivating a management pool by regularly promoting employees and rewarding customer-facing staff with monthly, quarterly and annual bonuses.

Conflict diamonds discussion

JeDeCo opens in OXO Tower

embers of the World Diamond Council, which met at the Fiera di Vicenza last month, reaffirmed the diamond and jewellery industry’s commitment to eliminating the trade in conflict diamonds, and agreed that the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme should evolve to reflect changes that have taken place since the KPCS was first launched in 2003.

In particular, the WDC supported any discussions to widen the conflict diamonds’ definition in the Core Documents of the KPCS, beyond the current definition which limits its scope to diamonds that finance civil conflict. The meeting affirmed a proposal that conflict diamonds should cover “diamond-related violence in rough diamond producing and trading areas.”

JeDeCo has won the bid for a prime retail showroom and studio space in London’s OXO Tower. Ten eponymous jewellery collections from emerging as well as established designers, were unveiled to the public on 1st June. Among those sharing the space are Anna Loucah, JeDeCo founder Cindy Dennis Mangan and Annika Burman.

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12 The Jeweller June 2012

| NAG News

Fourth annual EDF Conference ast month saw what can only be described as a ‘gaggle’ of Executive Development Forum members descend on the rain-soaked City of Oxford for the fourth annual EDF Oxford Congress. Orchestrated by Mike McGraw of Development Initiatives the event brought together the EDF groups, who work together throughout the year, for a day of lectures at the city’s Saïd Business School. This year’s lectures focused on staff motivation and training; using PR to enhance your brand profile and how jewellers can get the best from digital media marketing.

After Mike’s introduction, the first speaker of the day was Heiko Figge. Now with more than 25 years experience in the hotel industry, Figge became MD of Thistle and Guoman Hotels after 10 years with the company. He enlightened our delegates on how he’d risen to such a height – before divulging the techniques he currently employs to keep staff trained and motivated.

First he touched on the online rating systems that have seen a great change in the way the hotelier runs a business. He explained the importance of good ratings and how keeping staff happy and welltrained is a key part of this. Figge’s techniques focus on micro-managing the habits of his staff, while also providing mini-training breaks throughout the day, enabling the company to keep most of the staff motivated to provide a great level of service. Delegates learned how Figge uses a ‘daily habit’ chart to keep staff focused on particular

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days and how staff are entitled to at least 15 minutes of training per-day – even if they don’t realise they’re training. Figge tied this all into the mantra ‘because good isn’t good enough’.

Our second speaker, Claire Jones from Bottle PR, had an altogether different message. Less about keeping staff sweet, Jones talked about how to handle journalists in order to get your story printed in the right place, at the right time. She focused primarily on how to view your PR strategy in a simple and logical way – what do you want to achieve, and how are you going to get there? She outlined the importance of having case studies, breaking stories, and making yourself available. By doing this Jones gave delegates an idea of how a simple PR strategy can be achievable.

During this process delegates discussed the importance of local media sources and how best to tap into them. Jones gave some final tips linking these to previous work Bottle

PR had done – and explained exactly how it went about achieving its results.

Post-lunch we heard the final speaker of the day – Luke Smith from Croud Digital Marketing. A relatively young business, Croud assists companies with their social media and digital marketing outlets; helping them to make more of their online presence. The argument being that an online presence isn’t enough on its own – it’s what you do with that presence that counts. With a quick presentation about the use of Google Analytics, Adwords campaigns, how to use SEO and how to use social media, Smith hit on a number of key topics that jewellers are aiming to get to grips with. As a number of EDFers are more traditional high-street jewellers, it was an eye-opening talk – some are either still sceptical or have been more wary about how to approach the subject.

All in all, the day gave some important insights into what jewellers are doing right – and how they can do better in some areas.

Many delegates went away buzzing with ideas to implement in their business, which was a great sign that the NAG’s event was a definite success. We’d like to thank all our speakers, and, of course, Mike McGraw, for making the 2012 Oxford Congress so inspiring.

To find out more about what delegates really think you can find an EDF 2012 update on our blog: nag-blog.org Or you can find their comments on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/user/JewellersOnline Miles Hoare

NAG Seminar Programme 2012 – Summer update Advanced selling course

– 2 days Date and location to be confirmed Here is another chance to attend this very successful sales course facilitated by Virada Training. Benefitting all levels of sales people and focusing on real sales situations, this two-day course will inspire, inform and help delegates make the most of every selling opportunity.

Feedback from delegates: “Interesting, informative, inspirational – the

14 The Jeweller June 2012

day flew by. Run it more often!”

“Very informative, interesting and quite amazing!”

“Very useful. Well worth the investment” NAG Members: £495 + VAT (£594) Non NAG Members: £550 + VAT (£660)

Gold buying and precious metal testing – 1 day London, 13th July and 12th Sept 2012 The subject of this new seminar is the identification of jewellery metals for purchase

or secured lending and will help retailers to fully understand and identify metals used in both precious and non-precious jewellery.

Topics under scrutiny will be: the gold fix and bullion process; the three steps to jewellery metal identification using acids and alternative methods of testing and awareness of the legal requirements when buying gold from the public.

The new Gold Standard – the voluntary code of conduct for the face-to-face purchase of second-hand precious metals

NAG News | and jewellery, which is supported by the NAG, will also be covered.

NAG Members: £222: + VAT (£266.40) Non NAG Members: £245 + VAT (£294)

Selling to Chinese customers – 1 day Location: London, 19th July 2012

Chinese customers already account for about 30 per cent of the luxury goods market in Britain. Are you making the most of this sales opportunity? This one day course will be an insight into cultural differences and expectations. Your team will learn how to provide the best possible service and maximise sales to Chinese customers by creating the right buying experience.

the identification of diamonds together with treatments, clarity, colour and many other aspects of diamond knowledge and a look at corporate social responsibility issues.

Feedback from delegates: “The seminar was highly practical with plenty of diamonds for us to look at. Eric managed to provide sufficient information to keep us interested and able to gain an insight into the technical aspects of diamond grading” “Really good. I learned a lot and it has given me more confidence” “A good investment to promote sales.

I would highly recommend it” NAG Members: £402.00 + VAT (£482.40) Non NAG Members: £442.00 + VAT (£530.40)

Diamonds & diamond grading

Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications Edward Cox (Goldsmith), Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Carr Diamonds Ltd, London Simon Marks, London Silver Tree Jewellery Co. Ltd, Lancaster

Alumni Applications – Associate Damian John Miles, Okehampton, Devon

NAG’s Annual General Meeting

Another opportunity to attend a JETPro Taster Day Location: London, 27th June 2012 With the retail sector undergoing one of the most important transformations ever, jewellers are reassessing their management skills. The NAG now has a modular management development course, presented

by Mike McGraw, which promises to provide the necessary skills to take advantage of any future developments.

Feedback from delegates: “Excellent presentation. Explained things clearly and precisely” “Great. Very informative” “Brilliant” NAG Members: £300 + VAT (£360) Non NAG Members: £330.00 + VAT (£396)

– 2 days Location: London,16th & 17th Oct 2012 Presented by Eric Emms, the leading authority on diamond grading, this practical seminar is presented specifically from the retailers’ viewpoint. Included in the two-day course is

New Member Applications

Aimed at business owners and senior staff, the course is modular, based on assignments and you can pick and mix which modules are right for you.

But don’t take our word for it. The NAG is arranging a further taster day where you can evaluate whether JETPro is for you and your staff. Not only is it a low cost way of starting the next phase of your management’s development but you will take many great ideas from the day.

NAG Members: £35.00 + VAT Non NAG Members: £47.00 + VAT For more information on seminars and courses please contact Amanda White at the NAG: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

here is still time to book your place to attend the NAG’s most prestigious event of the year – the AGM and Luncheon. This year the event will be held at the worldrenowned Lord’s Cricket Ground on the Tuesday 26th June.

The cost of the day is £55 + VAT (£66.00) which includes a three course luncheon and refreshments. There will be an additional cost of £11 per person for those who may be interested in taking a 45 minute guided tour of the Lord’s Cricket Ground.

We will also be joined by guest speaker Mike Brace, a sporting hero who was blinded by a firework at a young age but did not let this prevent him from pursuing his passion for sport. Mike’s main sporting achievements include completing two London marathons, two ski marathons in Norway and Switzerland and, definitely the most tiring, the Devizes to Westminster Canoe race – over 125 miles!

Please note that the invitation is open to all NAG members so please join us for what is guaranteed to be a fantastic day!

For more information or to book your place at this year’s Annual Luncheon, please contact Ritu Verma on: 020 7613 4445 or email: ritu@jewellers-online.org

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The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

NAG Member of the Month In this issue’s Member of the Month, Amy Oliver speaks to Jason Allum of Allum & Sidaway. This successful family-run business is celebrating its 70th anniversary – it opened in Shaftsbury in 1942 – as well as its 60th year as a member of the NAG. Congratulations on your 70th anniversary!

What form have your celebrations taken and are there more to come?

Opening our flagship store in Ringwood to invited guests was a wonderful start to celebrating our 70th anniversary. It has created a template for future refurbishments and acquisitions. We have an exhibition planned for July when we are expecting around 600 guests who will tour a country house filled with our jewellery collections, while enjoying summer cocktails, canapés

You are now the fourth generation of the Allum family to manage the business; would you like the family tradition to continue?

Nothing would make me happier than to see Allum & Sidaway continue under the Allum name, although the last line in our family is my fifteen year old son, Jack.

Jack will have to choose his own route and decide for himself where his career takes him, as long as he is happy then that is all that matters.

Many of your staff have undertaken JET courses with the NAG and won academic awards for their achievements. How important do you think education is for the success of a business?

Educating our staff is paramount in the success of Allum & Sidaway. All of our staff undertake the JET course run by the NAG, and it is lovely to see so many A and A* grades coming back. Abigail Stradling won the Greenough Trophy in 2011 which was a very proud moment for both her and Allum & Sidaway. But training doesn’t stop there, we have created our own customer focused training day called ‘See

and some fabulous entertainment. We will also be holding 70th anniversary celebration weekends in a further three of our stores later in the year. Our staff will also be joining in by raising money for the Dorset & Somerset Air Ambulance with a 70 mile endurance bike race!

The business started life as a watch and clock repair shop under your great-grandfather; when did the focus switch to retailing jewellery?

My great-grandfather repaired watches and clocks in his garden shed, but it wasn’t until my grandfather Peter Allum joined him in 1952 and invested his life savings of £27 that the jewellery shop in Shaftesbury opened.

16 The Jeweller June 2012

the Difference’ which concentrates on exceeding customers’ expectations when it comes to service!

I always ask our Member of the Month to share an anecdote about a memorable customer – does one spring to mind?

My story takes me back about 16 years. Mrs Tattersall must have been one of our oldest and scattiest customers who would happily have a conversation with herself while I listened! On this particular day Mrs Tattersall entered the shop with her cute Yorkshire terrier in tow, we all sat down at a desk and she reminded me of her age periodically.

Then a rancid smell came over me, and all I could think as my best pen rolled off the edge of the desk was that poor Mrs Tattersall had had an unfortunate accident!

It wasn’t until Mrs Tattersall had left that I discovered her delightful Yorkie had left a present for me… and my pen protruded like a rocket from said present.

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, please write in and tell us why! Send an email to: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org

Sparkling Dreams

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERS’ DIPLOMA

BOOST STAFF CONFIDENCE AND IMPROVE SALES The Professional Jewellers’ Diploma is packed with information on effective selling designed [V IVVZ[ WYVÄ[ HUK IYPUN YLWLH[ I\ZPULZZ Get all the practical skills that a jeweller needs in two bite-sized online assessment chunks (known as JET 1 and JET 2

As well as product knowledge and selling skills, customer service, hallmarking, gemstones, metals (gold, platinum, palladium and silver) the programmes also cover: JET 1 Online: New designers, personal development, rings, silverware and gifts.

JET 2 Online: Alternative shopping, JVUZ\TLY JVUÄKLUJL KPZWSH` OPZ[VY` VM QL^LSSLY` [OL QL^LSSLY HUK [OL SH^ ZLJ\YP[` ZLY]PJLZ HUK YLWHPYZ ]HS\H[PVUZ

Invest in staff training and get ahead of the competition by contacting the NAG now on: tel: 020 7613 4445 #1 or email jet@jewellers-online.org or visit www.jewellers-online.org The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG

NAG News: Education & Training |

April’s Bransom Award winner announced

his issue we celebrate the winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award for April 2012. Held in conjunction with the team at Bransom Retail Systems, each month the NAG’s education department enters all the JET 1 assignments into a competition to arrive at the ‘best project’. The award, judged by the external examiners, gives students the opportunity to be rewarded with a trip to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of their certificate at our annual student award ceremony. Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma.

From the assignments received for the month of April, the top honour is handed to Ryan Mayers of F. Hinds in Cwmbran, Gwent – so congratulations to him! It wasn’t just the moderator who considered Ryan to be a worthy winner – his tutor, Michelle McCormick, is also full of praise. “Ryan has been a fabulous student throughout his JET 1 course.

All of his assignments have been submitted to the highest standard – and early too!” she said. “He has researched all of the project subjects at great depth. The content of his work demonstrates that he has exceptional selling and customer care knowledge.”

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To understand why Ryan’s assignment in particular had been singled out this month, we spoke to the project moderator: “The piece of JET 1 work sent in by Ryan for the final assignment can only be described as outstanding!” they said. “There is clear evidence of attention to detail and a positive attitude to selling skills. The sound comments given to the customer in the final part of his project demonstrate an ability to turn theoretical knowledge into practice.

Competition was tight for the award – there were six other serious contenders – but Ryan’s script definitely had the edge over

the others. He’s undoubtedly a worthy winner of the April JET 1 Bransom Award.”

When The Jeweller asked Ryan how it felt to be announced as this month’s top student, he, in common with all previous recipients, acknowledged that it was satisfying to get the recognition and to know all the hard work was paying off. “I’ve been in the jewellery trade for about a year and I’m currently training to be a manager,” he explained. “Taking JET 1 was the first step in gradually getting to where I need to be.

Having been out of education for a few years, I was slow to start with – but as I got more into the course I really started to enjoy the experience. All the assignments were really enjoyable, the final one in particular.

The online platform was really easy to use, and the tutors were great. I’d post up my work and within two days I’d have my grades back. It was made even better by the fact that it really helped me get into the subject matter, and now it’s done I feel a bit lost without it! I would definitely recommend JET 1 to anyone in a similar position. It gives you lots of information you might not already know – and it really boosts confidence on the sales floor.”

The education department would like to congratulate Ryan on his extremely hard work, and wish him continued success in his work and future studies.

For more information on the JET courses visit: www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1).

For information on Bransom go to: www.bransom.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 19

| NAG News: IRV Review

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

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A gem of an event north of the border IRV Co-ordinator Sandra Page reports on her first time at the Scottish Gemmological Association's annual Perth Conference am ashamed to say that this is the first time I have attended the Perth Conference – boy, have I been missing out! Anyone with a passion for gems, who regularly attends Loughborough but has somehow missed this off their schedule, should really give serious thought to attending in future. This event attracts delegates from all over the world.

It began with an evening presentation from Dr Liz Goring, a craft advisor to the Scottish Arts Council. Her talk ‘Suffragette Jewellery’ demonstrated her passion for the jewellery and history of this early 20th Century period. Saturday morning started with a ‘A Review of Pearls’ from Prof. Henry Hänni, a retired director of the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute. His special research on the subject proved invaluable as he was able to talk about the latest research/issues facing the pearl industry today. He also allowed delegates to inspect his unique collection of ‘halved’ pearls.

Following Dr Jack Ogden’s report on the latest developments at the Gem-A, Prof.

Godrey Fitton professor of Igneous Petrology at Edinburgh University spoke about ‘Geodynamics and Gems – or Why we won’t find rubies on Venus’. He was able to explain how the creation and make-up of our planet has played a part in the creation of gemstones including particular reference to rubies which, without our salty oceans, would not exist.

Later Maggie Campbell Pedersen talked about ivory and covered not only the long history of carving this emotive material but also mentioned the many different sources, alternatives and/or fakes around and how

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20 The Jeweller June 2012

Prof. Henry Hänni

to identify them. The day’s final presentation was from Dr Ulrich Henn, MD of the German Gemmological Association whose talk ‘Colour Modification of Quartz and Fire Opal’ took at look at the methods of colour treatment available today.

For those delegates still thirsty for more Darko Sturman, Curator Emeritus of the Royal Ontario Museum offered a session on how to teach gemmology. Arguably, the highlight of the day, however, was the evening’s Ceilidh. The Scots’ passion for dancing proved to be highly contagious!

The next day Richard Slater gave a talk on the variety of jewellery and gemstones he has come across as an auctioneer. He also touched on market values which was an added bonus for the valuer delegates.

Prof. Hänni’s second presentation was on gems for investment, a controversial subject because gemstones are a portable form of wealth and may seem attractive in times of falling confidence in the financial market, but there are many risks involved, as investors have discovered.

Fellow Conference-goer Shirley Mitchell FIRV attended some of the workshops during the event. “I chose to join Antoinette Matlins’ class, ‘Simple tools are NOT obsolete in gemmology’, because as an independent valuer travelling to my trade/private clients, the ‘simple tools’ are essential,” she explained.

“Antoinette started by explaining how the dark-field loupe could be used to identify fracture filling in diamonds far more quickly and easily than just the loupe. So it made sense that if fracture filling in diamond was easier to see, then seeing the flash in a glass-filled ruby would be too. The newer methods of glass filling ‘hybrid’ rubies can be difficult to detect in mounted jewellery and with good material becoming scarcer, they are becoming more prevalent today.

I have used my dark-field loupe for a lot of things but after Antoinette’s class I am sure I will be using it for many more,” she added.

“We also looked at UV and how that can separate tanzanite from its simulants and other stones. Antoinette is a wonderful teacher and so passionate about the subject. My second workshop was with the acclaimed Alan Hodgkinson on ‘Unusual Gems’. Alan has been practicing gemmology for 55 years and in that time has amassed an extraordinary number of weird and wacky gemstones,” Shirley explained. “We were given various gemstones with crib sheets as to what we may find – 50 in total and only two hours to see them all! So many gemstones to study and test – we were in gemmology heaven. We looked at natural versus synthetic, rough versus faceted, inclusions, lustre, polariscope stones, and all under the superb teaching of the great man himself – what could be better than that?

Roll on next year!”

Next year’s Conference is in May in Peebles (not Perth). To register your interest email membership@scotgem.co.uk Dr Ulrich Henn

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BJA News |

It’s goodbye from me can hardly believe that it is two years since I first donned the ‘gong’ – the rather splendid badge of office that comes with the job of being BJA chairman – and that I am now at the end of my time in office.

It has been a real roller coaster ride but one I have enjoyed enormously and one which I leave feeling quietly confident that I have achieved, if not all, then very many of the aims I set out for myself – and for the Association at large – when I made my inaugural speech in 2010.

At that time the Association was in a state of flux and my first task was to appoint a new chief executive – Simon Rainer.

Simon and I were new boys together and we immediately formed a strong working partnership. Simon was quick to grasp the necessity I had identified of creating a more business-like BJA and of building a more sustainable business model for the Association, thus ensuring that it is not entirely dependent upon membership subscriptions.

In the past two years we have not only achieved a more solid financial footing but have also broadened the Association’s remit and increased the range of services it offers. I know that our work in the fields of security, ethics and training in particular

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has been especially well received.

Another priority was to forge closer links across the many strands of the industry and I’m pleased to say that our work Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA with other trade associations and industry bodies including the Responsible Jewellery Council, The National Association of Goldsmiths and more latterly London’s Diamond Bourse has also grown and strengthened.

As all good business people know ‘succession planning’ must be a key element in any strategic plan – and this is particularly true when one is in a managerial role that lasts just two years. I am delighted to say that my vice chairman, Gary Williams (who following formal election takes over from me on 12th June) and our nominated vice chairman Jason Holt, who will take over from Gary in 2014, have been fully involved in the metamorphosis that has taken place within the BJA in the past two years and are ready to build further on the excellent foundations we have already put in place over the next four, so ensuring an on-going clarity of purpose.

BJA launches brooch competition for Diamond Jubilee year o celebrate the Jubilee, the BJA has launched a prestigious competition to create a commemorative diamond brooch for the Queen. Devised by members of the BJA National Committee, a brief – ‘The Graceful Modernisation of the Monarchy’ – invites BJA members to send in their designs.

Designers are encouraged to be inspired by the Queen’s sixty year reign, through many formative and historically significant eras, and to bring a contemporary interpretation to a fine-jewellery brooch design that represents the elegance, grace and empathy with which the Queen has guided the nation and indeed the Commonwealth over that time.

In commemoration of the Diamond Jubilee and as part of the 125th anniversary

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celebrations of the BJA, pledges and donations have been and continue to be received from our generous members and we have an excellent ‘pot’ of materials from which the winning brooch can be manufactured. In addition to a selection of natural coloured diamonds, we have been pledged a red, yellow, green and lilac natural coloured diamond, the colours of four national flowers of the UK, which designers may consider using in their own representative fashion.

“The idea is that manufacture, mounting, setting and polishing is all undertaken by BJA member firms willing to put their skills to use and give their time to fashion this unique item,” said Lindsey Straughton, BJA

Any association which reaches its 125th Anniversary – especially with a record high in its membership numbers – must I believe be doing something right! To find out more about what has been done in the past year and what we have planned for the future I hope as many members as possible will join us for our special celebratory AGM at Somerset House during The Jewellery Show London.

The team has worked hard to compile an Anniversary Exhibition showcasing 26 fascinating pieces of jewellery, silverware, badges, trophies and objet d’art all created by member firms and spanning the 12 decades the BJA has been representing the industry, which will be on show to those who attend and for the two trade days during Jewellery Week. As this exhibition shows very clearly, our industry is still developing and moving forward and it has been a very great privilege to be involved in helping to ensure that its trade association does the same. Thanks must also go to the BJA team and to my hard-working fellow National Committee members. I couldn’t have done it without them.

I look forward to seeing you in London!

marketing manager.

“The brooch is to be made primarily in platinum and Lonmin has generously pledged up to 60 grammes. Other mines across the British Isles are giving some small quantity of rare English, Welsh, Scottish and Irish gold which may also be incorporated in the design.”

The brooch will be gifted to the Queen after being displayed at a BJA event at the House of Commons in November. The deadline for design entries is 3rd August 2012 and shortlisted designs will be shown and voted on via the website and at the BJA stand during IJL in September.

Download an entry form at www.bja.org.uk To pledge diamonds or production time contact the BJA on 0121 237 1110.

The Voice of the Industry 23

| BJA News The Cube, Birmingham

BJA Designer of the Year BJA member who has consistently produced the most commercially viable designs to raise the profile of British design.

Voted for by the BJA membership and general public.

BJA Retailer of the Year BJA member running either a bricks and mortar business or ecommerce platform.

Voted for by both the BJA membership and general public.

For a nomination form or to nominate online visit: www.bja.org.uk and click 125

Sponsorship opportunities

BJA Membership Awards announced o celebrate the BJA’s 125th Anniversary, we are organising a celebratory BJA membership awards programme, culminating in a prestigious black tie awards ceremony at the Jewellery Benevolent Ball in Birmingham on December 6th 2012. “Success of this inaugural awards programme will hopefully see this becoming a regular annual event,” said chief executive Simon Rainer.

The winner of each category will receive a commemorative trophy designed by jeweller Erica Sharpe, who recently took the first prize for her design of a commemorative silver desk accessory for the BJA. This will be in addition to universal industry recognition for their great achievement!

Category winners and those shortlisted will also be provided with new BJA commemorative logos.

Nominations are invited from all BJA members who can either nominate themselves or another BJA member or a supplier of services to the BJA membership.

A separate form will be required for each nomination.

Members may only provide nominations for a maximum of two categories. All nominations need to be completed by 7th

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24 The Jeweller June 2012

September, 2012. An Awards panel will then judge each entry to arrive at a short list of four companies or individuals per category.

The shortlist will then appear on the BJA website and be open for voting by the membership. In two categories, voting will also be invited from companies and individuals outside of membership. Voting will close on 26th November, 2012.

Presman Mastermelts, a leading International recycler of precious metals servicing the jewellery and industrial sectors and incorporating the oldest ‘trade only’ scrap counter in the UK, has confirmed that it will sponsor a category at the BJA’s 2012 awards. “We are extremely delighted to support the BJA awards programme this year. As a long standing member of the BJA, we are fully behind the Association’s desire to recognise and reward the excellent achievements of its members,” said Gary Williams, Presman Mastermelts head of the Jewellery Division.

Other category sponsorship opportunities are available for the 125th Awards Programme. For further information contact Lindsey Straughton on 0121 237 1112 or email: lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk Indigo Hotel

The award categories are: BJA Member of the Year Individual or company that has helped most to promote the BJA during 2012. Voted for by the BJA membership.

BJA Supplier of the Year BJA member or a supplier of services to the BJA membership who has provided outstanding service during 2012. Voted for by the BJA membership.

BJA Industry Contributor of the Year BJA member that has done the most to contribute to the overall good of the industry – suggested areas include: ethical trading practices, training, new standards, initiatives etc. Voted for by the BJA membership.

For further details on the ‘Black and White Diamond Ball’ on 6th December as well as special rates that the BJA has negotiated for an overnight stay at the Indigo Hotel and Spa, incorporating Marco Pierre White’s restaurant in Birmingham’s latest iconic building The Cube, contact: gill.price@batf.uk.com

Cameron Diaz wearing Tag Heuer

“The luxury market – over £5,000 – is strong and growing,” agrees Daniel Ozel of Festina watches at Unique. “The customer base of this market still has money and they see it as an investment to buy a Swiss-made luxury brand. Customers who [normally] buy in the £500 to £2,000 price level have been hit most from the crisis – they’re trying to save money – so this market is suffering the most.”

“According to retailers the £500 to £2,000 market has seen the biggest hit in

While it’s been a challenging few years for many jewellery retailers, those with a strong watch offer seem to be weathering the storm, discovers Belinda Morris hey’re not a guaranteed cure-all for the fiscal woes that currently ail us, but it’s generally agreed that timepieces have definitely earned their keep – their place in the shop window – over the past half a decade or so. Must-have silver and charm brands notwithstanding, jewellery has been a hard sell for some as the economic downturn has taken hold. Watches on the other hand (no pun intended) have maintained pretty healthy sales throughout.

Not all watches though. Depending on who you talk to and where you draw the various lines, different price sectors within

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26 The Jeweller June 2012

the category are behaving differently. And while the general mood among retailers and suppliers is one of cautious and quiet optimism, it would probably be stretching things to say that we’re out of the woods.

Statistically the market is becoming polarised. “It would appear that the already challenging mid-luxury market is being further ignored by the consumer in favour of lower entry fashion/traditional watch brands or high end luxury Swiss brands,” says Jonathan Hedges, global product manager for watches and jewellery at GfK Retail & Technology.

Watch Feature | of years have actually presented opportunities for Accurist,” says sales and marketing director Philip Woolff. “While a number of entrypremium and designer brands appear to have struggled, we’ve enjoyed strong results throughout. People are seeking out trusted mainstream brands with a reputation for reliability, quality and real value. This has benefitted Accurist.”

Does this mean that fashion designer brands are losing their grip on the market?

Depends who you ask and of course it depends on the brand. The nature of fashion is that some names are strong one minute and off the radar the next. “There’s reasonable demand, but not just any brands and retailers are overwhelmed by choice now,” says Veritime’s Neil Duckworth. “The designs are

sales,” adds Mark Ryder of Steerwell. “Across the price points from £2,000 down, the feedback we get is that consumers are trading down to a lower price than they were two to three years ago. I see this trend continuing for at least this year, with people looking for the best value for money and something which offers them a unique purchase that will last.”

Henrik Leth Møller of new watch brand Bering Time agrees. “I believe that in times of crisis money will still be spent, but we, as consumers, are more critical and aware of what we spend our money on. We want ‘something’ for our money. At the high end that means quality and prestige and at the lower price points products have to offer value for money for the critical consumer.

Generally it is the mid-price segment that is suffering the most – from £400 to £1,000,” he adds.

All of which means that potentially, as well as challenges, there are opportunities for certain brands to shine. “The mid sector of the market has had a difficult time during the downturn, however, we finished the year with a healthy increase over 2010,” says Peter Lefevre, sales and marketing director for UK and Ireland at Maurice Lacroix. “As an independent company with strong financial backing, we feel there are great opportunities ahead, particularly as many of the bigger brands seem to be moving into a higher price point and rationalising their distribution.”

The power of the brand

Adrian McGillivray of Edox also feels that the distribution contraction policy of certain watch groups is fueling the desire among some UK retailers to actively seek fresh brands. “They’re looking for something new, exciting and different, featuring styles or manufacturing processes that offer a USP which will attract new clients,” he says.

“Brands with a clear message and a point of difference should benefit,” adds Derek Salter, UK brand director of Mondaine and Luminox, which both offer the reassurance of being Swiss and both with their own particular and distinctive image and features.

In addition of course there are also the established brands at the more affordable end of the spectrum that many consumers look for in uncertain times. “The past couple

important of course and the pricing is critical – the margin is now more important than ever for retailers,” he adds. “Strong brand names will continue to pull people into stores and TW Steel aims to be part of this with [impactive] advertising and promotions,” says Ryder.

Even though Paul Kustow, UK sales agent for MeisterSinger and Nomos Glashütte recognises that all but the very highest end watch brands have found trading a challenge, there are exceptions to the rule. “We have been fortunate that our entry level luxury brands have done well over the past year

The Voice of the Industry 27

| Watch Feature and continue to do so,” he says. “Maybe their uniqueness and the very good comparative values they offer are hitting the right spot with the retailers in these uncertain times.”

Uncertain times which may or may not be given a lift in this year of general celebration.

Retailers in the Capital and major cities and tourist destinations ought, at least, to reap some rewards over the next few months. As Joe Walsh, director of Laings of Glasgow points out, the strong watch performance being experienced across all of the company’s stores can be attributed to a large extent to the Chinese market – a huge growth area for them. “Overseas visitors are interested in the high end watches and these consumers are replacing any slowdown in the local market,” he explains. “I believe the key is attracting the tourism and travelling business they are improving, what take up has been due directly, or indirectly, the the Chinese tourist visiting the UK and taking advantage of the recently weak pound,” he says. “And as regards to turning the economic corner, this greatly depends on what happens in Europe over the next 12 to 18 months. The financial markets now require a period of stability and calm if we are to avoid any further tightening of the business belt.”

strong signs of growth in value sales; an indication that we have turned a corner.

This suggests that the downturn has had a negative impact on the lower end – the volume drivers – rather than the more medium to high-priced watches,” she adds.

Basel on a high

That prognosis aside, the general consensus is that the mood at BaselWorld earlier in the year was upbeat – from a supplier as well as a retailer perspective – and the knock-on effect is an optimistic atmosphere within the trade a whole. “It was perhaps the best Basel in 10 years,” enthuses Kirsten Crisford of Seiko. “Although times are tough our market seems to be robust and while the watch market as a whole is fractionally down in volume of watches bought, it is showing market.” Mark Toulson, head of watch buying at Aurum (Goldsmiths, Mappin & Webb and Watches of Switzerland) is also finding that certain brands are tailoring their offer to the requirements of the Chinese tourists, who, he says, favour classic, reasonablysized watches.

Speaking of the positive profit reports issued by the major upmarket brands McGillivray wonders just who is buying in greater numbers. “What is not clear is how their sales in the UK are performing, and, if

28 The Jeweller June 2012

Watch market statistics Comparing March 2010 - February 2011 with March 2011 - February 2012: • Watches over £1,000 have seen units grow by 0.64% but value has increased by 12.44% with a 11.73% rise in average selling price.

• Watches under £1,000 have seen units decline by 6.90% but value has increased by 3.07% with a 10.71% rise in average selling price.

• Watches between £5-800 have seen units decline by 10.9% and value has declined by 10.69% with a 0.23% rise in average selling price.

• Watches under £250 have seen units decline by 7.3% but value has increased by 2.24% with a 10.30% rise in average selling price.

Jonathan Hedges, Global Product Manager, Watches & Jewellery, GfK Retail & Technology

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“Consumers are willing to spend a little more on their purchases to get high quality and value for money – this is a positive for us.”

Simon Gilham of Zeon (who also enjoyed “the best Basel in a decade”) adds that the volume sector (sub £100) “remains testing for suppliers to achieve a desirable product as price points consumers are looking for. It is perhaps this sector that has brought the most challenges to maintain volume,” he says. “The right offer at the right price point will bring the consumers in and business is around if your offer is right.” In Gilham’s view the mid-sector (sub £500) has become the most important watch-buying market. “With 46 per cent of sales now being taken at this price point, it is attracting more brands and more competition, which is great for retailer and consumer alike. We are starting to move towards hopefully less volatile times,” he adds.

Key watch trends • • • • • • • • • • • • •

classic looks smaller dials and slimmer cases for men rose gold vintage styling ceramic still strong a broad colour palette – for dials, straps and details green coming through world timers military (particularly aviation) styling and functions mixed materials interesting styling – enamel, marquetry etc ‘boyfriend’ v. petite & feminine for women’s models chronographs for women

Having enjoyed an “outstanding” Basel, Leth Møller sensed that while UK retailers were buying carefully, they were, in common with agents and distributors – looking out for new products and brands. “They know they have to develop as retailers and constantly present their customers with the best and most interesting products; there’s still a lot of products to be bought and money to be made,” he says. The positive vibes that he felt during the show were sensed by most other exhibitors, including Salter. “The overall mood was up, we saw a lot of first time clients and although

there were fewer innovations at the show there was more of what the market needs – quality, clear value, long-term relevance and enduring product.”

His view is echoed by Ryder at Steerwell.

“At times it felt like a British wartime mentality, where we are all pulling together in tough economic times,” he says. “The vast majority of the UK was there in force and seemed to be spending, although the watch houses seemed to be conservative with the 2012 product and there was no talk of a must-buy item from buyers across the board.”

| Watch Feature for the boys, with an also-ran paragraph on women’s watches, there’s now call for a bit of a shift in the other direction. Not completely of course, but there’s a strong sense that many brands – particularly those traditional makers whose heritage has hitherto been of a more male-dominated nature – are taking more consideration of the steadily growing women’s market.

“As with the majority of Swiss manufacturers and producers, it is our view that we have been concentrating too much on the male market as more men become watch collectors,” admits McGillivray. “Women buy (or have purchased) watches which are either strictly functional or a jewellery piece with a time-keeping element. The market is open for a sensibly priced, feminine designed collection to cater for self-purchasing, decision-making women. Edox understands this and is currently producing collections to cater for this potential void in the market.”

“We are definitely trying to improve our offer to ladies as there really is a gap in the women’s market in the £700 to £2,500 price point,” says Lefevre. This year Maurice

Something for the girls There was however a category that appeared on the wish list of most buyers: timepieces for women. “The demand for ladies’ watches is soaring,” confirms Duckworth of Veritime which distributes Philip Watch as well as couture designer brands Christian Lacroix and Nina Ricci. “And they must be designed for women and not just scaled-down versions of men’s styles,” he adds.

Whereas once a feature on watches would have been weighted heavily towards toys

The market is open for a sensibly priced, feminine designed collection to cater for self-purchasing, decision-making women.

Which doesn’t simply mean a sprinkling of diamonds or crystals and a jaunty colour palette (though that too) but also a recognition that some female customers are taking watches as seriously as the men are… well, almost, and it’s a question of keeping them satisfied with the right products.

32 The Jeweller June 2012

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| Watch Feature Lacroix has relaunched the Miros line of elegant sports watches for men and women, including some chronograph models as well as simple three-handed diamond set styles.

At Bering, which set out to create a fifty-fifty split of male to female models, is now finding that its ladies’ watches accounts for nearer 60 per cent of sales. And far from being scaled-down men’s styles, they have been designed “from scratch, with focus on feeling and design,” says Leth Møller.

The jury is still out on whether women are seduced by form or function – i.e. complications and technology – but it’s tending to fall on the side of looks. “I still believe that we men are more ‘gadget freaks’ than women, who are more interested in form, colour and design,” says Leth Møller.

When it comes to fashion brands Veritime’s Duckworth agrees. “However, I believe that in the high end, many brands would benefit by offering mechanical versions of their ladies’ watches – not just quartz models” “Women do tend to buy more for style than complications,” explains Walsh at

get asked more and more for a mechanical watch that is suited to women – hopefully this is it!” says co-founder Nick English.

“I think there is a growing interest in the romanticism of wearing a mechanical watch and now ladies are starting to catch up [on this idea] with men. These watches are more than just a device for telling the time – they are a statement about who you are as a person. I think this market will only grow.”

Another British brand, Kennett, which launched in 2009, has introduced its first model for the female market. At 34mm, the Lady Savro Chronograph is a scaled-down version of the original Savro and features a rose gold 316 stainless steel case, with a Swarovski crystal-adorned mother of pearl dial. Each quarter this year Tom Kennett plans to bring out another ladies’ model including a version of the ceramic Altitude watch.

These [mechanical] watches are more than just a device for telling the time – they are a statement about who you are as a person.

Laings, “but I believe the more exclusive brands do need to develop their female product.” Aurum’s Toulson agrees that the watch as an accessory is a strong seller, but looks, increasingly, are not everything. “At the top end of the market, brands like Patek Philippe have introduced their first perpetual calendar for women – a recognition that women now have more of an interest in the technical aspect of watches, rather than simply the aesthetics,” he says.

Having been focused on the men’s market, this year marks the introduction of Bremont’s first watch designed to appeal to both sexes – the Solo 37mm. “We certainly

The watch market overview according to Euromonitor Sales of watches have been growing at a slower rate in recent years, a result of long-term demographic shifts and changes in patterns of timekeeping and exacerbated by the recent economic downturn. Although watches are more ‘functional’ than jewellery, the value of watches relative to their function is based almost entirely on their ‘luxury’ value, and in tough times the expense of a watch might be considered unnecessary and somewhat indulgent by most consumers.

Over the forecast period, value sales of watches are projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 2.3%, reaching more than £1.6 billion in 2014. This moderate growth is a result of the effects of the global recession that are expected to linger over the next several years. The watches subsector is, to some extent, similar to jewellery in that there is something of a lag in expenditure patterns, meaning that consumers are not expected to purchase new watches until they are more confident about their financial situations.

34 The Jeweller June 2012

There are also such developments at the more affordable end of the ‘power watch’ brand market – Citizen has noticed that women are interested in technical innovations and therefore is building on this demand, according to brand director Mark Robinson.

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| Watch Feature extent; appearance matters. As has been pointed out, the need for consistency and playing it a little safe has meant fewer dramatic developments for 2012, from a style as well as a technology point of view, but at the same time there is enthusiasm for certain trends to continue. While the fashion designer brands are cornering the market in explosions of colour, mixed materials, textures and unusual highlight details, the more serious/traditional end of the market is letting nuance (as well as the expected quality, precision and heritage) tell the story.

Large cases and dials are still around, but they are much less extreme than they have been in the past – there’s a feeling for neater, slimmer watches, particularly for men.

This in turn leads to a more retrospective look, with classic, simple dials and indexes as well as traditional straps and bracelets.

And at Bulova they are also experiencing a growing trend for technology in women’s watches. “We have seen an increase in demand for both our ladies Precisionist and Mechanical watches over the past 12 months,” says product marketing manager Liam McAllister, “but even though important to women, design and style are still the main reasons for purchase.”

On trend

Presumably even those whose main requirements of a timepiece are maximum precision and the most cutting-edge of innovations must care about looks to some

downturn or not, the scope for moving forward and for development in the watch market is there… in spades. As Leth Møller says: “In a storm do you build trenches or windmills? I think the UK retailers know they will benefit from building windmills.”

For ladies, conversely, the larger ‘boyfriend’ size watch is still popular, whether for classic styles or more meaty chronograph models, sporty styles and even quite masculine looks, such as Bell & Ross’s aviation timepieces, which come with slightly smaller cases and diamonds on the black ceramic for a more female touch. However, as a wardrobe of watches is increasingly desired – by women as well as men – so too are neater, petite, more truly feminine watches, as Royal London is finding.

So, whether from a choice of brands or choice of design point of view, financial

36 The Jeweller June 2012

Watch Feature |

Brand Profile BQ Watches Ian Shaffer, director of sales at BQ Watches describes the growing appeal of pre-owned timepieces “

ver the past five years the pre-owned high-end watch market has really taken off; the scale of the market has genuinely taken me by surprise.” Anyone who has passed the BQ Watch stand at a jewellery trade fair would have to agree that Ian Shaffer is right – there’s a lot of interest in old watches, and it’s probably getting stronger.

“I always knew there was a healthy market for pre-owned luxury watches, especially Rolex models, but since the financial crisis started to bite hard across the world, it has grown at an almost frightening pace,” he adds.

When Shaffer first started about seven years ago, he and his younger partners Spencer Dryer and Andrew Lazarus had just one phone and a shelf as their office. Now they employ around 10 permanent staff in the UK, plus a further six on a consultancy basis around Europe. Recently the company moved into a new, state-of-the-art showroom in Edgware, North London that comes complete with its own fully equipped workshop staffed by craftsmen who refurbish and repair watches.

“To give you some idea of the scale of the business we now have teams of experts constantly travelling to countries such as Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Cyprus, Portugal, Sweden, Holland and Finland. We have even established an office in Antwerp,” says Shaffer.

“Our buying teams are out of the country for about 45 weeks of the year, and still we struggle to purchase sufficient stock to cater for the demand. In the last year our turnover has increased by 40 per cent, compared to the previous 12 months, which was itself a record year. From that phone and shelf BQ Watches is now a multi-million pound turnover business – in less than a decade.

That’s how active this market is right now.”

So Shaffer probably isn’t living the quiet life that he imagined when he started. The

O

business was intended as a way to ease himself into retirement, after spending over 40 years in the jewellery and pawnbroking business. “I thought it was time to take things easy and enjoy my life-long hobby. Ever since I was a young child watches, especially quality brands have always fascinated me.

While my school friends were off playing, I would be fixing up, and selling-on broken timepieces,” he explains.

Perhaps unsurprisingly round 70 per cent of his business is for Rolex models – the most popular model being the Datejust in steel and gold, followed by the Submariner Date, the Yachtmaster then the GMT Master, all in steel. The remainder of interest is for Omega models followed closely by Breitling, Cartier, Patek Philippe and IWC. The company purchases watches in any condition from a wide range of sources – mainly the general public and specialist collectors – but recently it has been encouraging its trade customers and jewellers to consider buying in pre-owned watches as a means to improve their cash flow.

“By offering this additional service to their customers they can keep in contact with them and make some good financial returns,” he says. “As a former jewellery retailer I know it works. It doesn’t matter whether the watches are broken or not, we can restore them to original factory condition, and return them complete with a two year guarantee. They

don’t even have to know much about the watches. Our experts are on hand 24/7 to offer professional advice. However, if we quote a jeweller a price over the phone, email or Skype we will stick to that even if it turns out to be not what we thought it was.

The retailer can’t lose out.”

Added to this, if retailers buy from BQ and the watches don’t sell, BQ offer to buy them back at a minimum of 95 per cent of the purchase price. “But with the way the watch

market is right now, many retailers wishing to return stock purchased over a year ago could actually make a small profit. So they never need be stuck with stock they can’t sell,” he adds.

Clearly the financial crisis has impacted greatly on the pre-owned watch market.

“Although many people have not had the money available to buy new, they still want to invest in a quality jewellery item; they can do that with pre-owned watches,” says Shaffer. He explains that new Rolex prices, for example, have increased far more than the cost of second-hand models over the past few years. “In fact a pre-owned model can be retailed for around half the cost of a new model and as the styles have changed little over the years, they look the same.

Plus, many specialist collectors believe the older models are of superior quality and workmanship and are therefore the better bargain. And they are probably right in their thinking,” he adds.

“I should point out that pre-owned makes, especially Rolex, hold their value really well.

Savvy customers know this and I think that is a major reason why there has been so much interest in the past couple of years.”

The Voice of the Industry 37

the

Jeweller picks...

If you’re looking for watches pitched at the younger market or at those who have an eye for fashion brands and on-trend styling – at an accessible price – here’s a selection of the 2012 collections.

MICHELE

Luxury diamond watch brand Michele has launched the Serein collection, inspired by the curves and polished surfaces of granite river rocks. The elliptical case is adorned with 100 hand-set diamonds with circular patterns of of fine lines on the dial which features strong Roman indexes.

Tel: 08444 123 277

GUESS WATCHES

AVIO MILANO

MYKONOS (TIDE)

Since 1853 Ltd has launched four new watch brands into the UK. AVIO Milano, Boxer Milano, Montres De Luxe and Byblos are all Italian designed (by watch designer Fulvio Locci) and every single watch offers its own unique features and design. Combined with strong styling and superior build quality are either Swiss or Miyota movements. Features include 316L stainless steel cases, rubberised leather straps, PVD finishing, luminescent indexes and hands and many other features. RRP are from around £95 to £700. www.since1953ltd.co.uk

Funky styling and affordable prices are behind the success of Italian fashion accessory watch brand Mykonos, which is now being distributed in the UK through Tide. While there are models to suit a more formal or minimalist mood, the emphasis is on the contemporary and unusual, with LED styles as well as a watch that allows the wearer to attach his or her Facebook relationship status to the strap.

Tel: 0191 587 9835

An advanced plating process has been specially developed by Guess Watches to create a bold new look for its Fierce collection.

Created from a resin material with glitter detail the four animal print models (from bronze and gold tones through to silver/ gunmetal ‘snow leopard’) also feature a top ring of crystal accents. www.sequel-uk.com

TATEOSSIAN

The Skeleton Watch is one of four new lines added to Tateossian’s collection this year.

The exposed face reveals the intricate japanese movement. Most of the brand’s watches are unisex – particularly the case since the trend for women wearing bigger watches continues. Other strong sellers are all-black styles with fluorescent highlights and the ultra-slim Carbon model. www.tateossian.com

Kelly Rowland, worldwide ambassador for TW Steel, has launched her own CEO Tech special edition timepieces. The singer’s love of distinct styling, together with her favourite colours pink and blue, have created visually striking models, one featuring a mother of pearl dial with a zirconia baguette-set bezel, the other with sunray blue dial and blue CZ baguettes. Both models carry Kelly’s signature on the back case. www.twsteel.com

FOSSIL

Fossil’s A/W 2012 collection pays homage to the timeless classics of the past – the elegant silhouettes of the ’20s and ’30s; aviation and vintage workwear for a rugged, casual feel; mixed materials, including wood and black-on-black for an old-meetsnew look. Tel: 08444 123 277

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD (ZEON)

LINKS OF LONDON

KELLY ROWLAND AT TW STEEL

Although Links’ female customers still enjoy the oversized men’s models, there is also a growing demand for more feminine styles featuring stones. These Effervescence watches are new this year and have been designed to match the bracelets in Links’ jewellery collection – ideal for the stacking trend. For men, motorcar racing is the inspiration behind the new Chicane watch. www.linksoflondon.com

While this iconic designer brand is heavily weighted towards the female market, there is a growing demand for more gents’ styles.

However, this must be taken in the context that female customers are continuing to wear larger cased watches. Rose gold and ceramic are important elements of the new collection, as well as quirkier details such as tartan and the Union Jack.

Tel: 020 8208 1833

SWAROVSKI

This black faceted ceramic watch from the Piazza Grande collection is from Swarovski’s new men’s line of timepieces, the company having previously concentrated on women’s models. The use of crystal as well as faceting techniques, is obviously central to the ranges and together with masculine materials like metal, rubber and leather, allows many of the styles to be quite androgynous. www.swarvovski.com

A.B.ART

For men’s watches, big and bold are still strong sellers at a.b.art – the 44mm dial with a dark face being particularly key. For women, having a choice of colour is important, with the brighter shades such as orange, pink and purple being favourites. www.abart-uk.com

SIMON CARTER

Inspired by New York City’s ‘canyons of glass and concrete’ the new DKNY line uses grey to create a luxury, yet sporty, feel. For women the warm neutral is blended with gold, while for men black and white creates a more graphic look. Also for women is faux tortoiseshell, mixed with grey and clear stones for a feminine edge.

Tel: 08444 123 277

After almost a decade menswear designer Simon Carter has expanded his watch and jewellery collection to include ladies’ watches.

Taking inspiration from his design archive, the 2012 collection features classic, pareddown, almost masculine looks, housed in on-trend oversized cases. The watches are available with either chronograph or timeonly functions and come with stitched leather straps in black, chocolate or midnight blue.

Tel: 020 8683 4475

EMPORIO ARMANI

DKNY

New Retro is a modern interpretation of classics, with inspiration for the watches coming from vintage models: convex glass, vertical counters for chronographs and metal mesh straps for instance… Also important are two-tone looks: yellow gold and rose gold together with stainless steel.

Tel: 08444 123 277

RADLEY (PEERS HARDY GROUP)

This dedicated ladies’ brand offers a choice of larger ‘boyfriend’, sporty models, but its foundations are in the more delicate, vintage look. The British brand is also demonstrating the trend for mixed materials – such as plastic, stainless steel and aluminium, with rose gold being a strong favourite. www.peershardy.co.uk

| BJA Feature

The Jewellery Show London Introducing what promises to be the hottest launch event of the season: an exclusive two day trade-only exhibition will take place on 12th-13th June at one of London’s most iconic buildings – Somerset House. It’s a unique and inspiring location for what exhibitors and organisers alike hope will be an equally unique and inspiring first show.

Erica Sharpe Fine Jewellery

As a licence holder of Fairtrade and Fairmined gold, and specialist in commission work, Erica Sharpe will be showcasing her unique individual pieces which feature unusual gemstones and gold granulation work. She will also exhibit her beautiful and delicate ‘Stella’ collection, inspired by Alpine flowers and the stunning Kerensa collection which features precious metals and gemstones wrought with Cornish tin. Pictured is a Kerensa double wave and shore ring in 18ct yellow and white gold RRP £2,350 Tel: 01934 710448 www.ericasharpe.co.uk

Zarafa Designs

These unique faceted florite ‘Slice’ earrings are made in India completely by hand, ensuring that each pair is entirely individual.

The delicate, open settings showcase these beautiful blue-green stones, which are the perfect addition to a Summer wardrobe.

RRP £295. Tel: 020 7937 9735 www.pomegranate-london.co.uk

Perfection Jewellery Ltd

This bespoke collection is designed and handcrafted in silver at Zafara’s studio in Hemel Hempstead in limited editions with each piece being unique. Delivery is normally between two and three weeks from the time of order; all works are hallmarked at the London Assay Office and can be supplied in Zarafa Designs packaging if required. This is an Ammonite Collection collar made with fine silver discs, citrine CZ, triple chain on a tube clasp. RRP £286 Tel: 07947137571 www.zarafadesigns.com

42 The Jeweller June 2012

Pomegranate

The intimate and opulent surroundings will play host to a carefully selected collection of 90 of the leading UK and international designers, suppliers and brands. It should be an enticing mix of the most sought-after established names as well as exciting new talent. The timing of the show is no accident having been perfectly placed for the start of the busy Christmas 2012 and Spring 2013 trading periods. Here are some of the BJA members exhibiting…

With a minimal investment, jewellery retailers can become exclusive Perfection Bridal agents by stocking Perfection’s high quality rhodium-plated silver and CZ samples which will be priced up in the window as 18ct gold and diamond. The package includes a free display stand and a quantity of personalised flyers containing shop details to give away to customers. The company appoints only one agent for each area, so come early to avoid disappointment. Tel: 020 8519 5999 www.perfectionbridal.info

BJA Feature |

Rachel Galley

The ‘Diamond Globes’ are created to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee and follow on from Rachel Galley’s best selling range the ‘Memento Globe’. The luxurious 18ct gold pieces feature full pave around the entire spheres creating beautiful movement and light from the diamonds. From 0.8ct to over 4ct of diamonds these pieces are very special indeed. RRP From £2,500 Tel: 020 7242 4332 www.rachelgalley.com

Gemex

2011 UK Jewellery Award winner for best platinum bridal collection, Gemex, will be showcasing no fewer than 1,500 diamond set bridal wedding and engagement rings, all set with a minimum F/G VS grade. “Come to stand WS14 to see why the Raphael Collection

by Gemex is the leading bridal collection in the country,” says Lee Ruben. Rings RRP from £575 Tel: 020 7242 1080 www.theraphaelcollection.com

Clogau

Marking the 60th anniversary of the accession of Queen Elizabeth II to the throne, the commemorative 9ct yellow and rose gold Royal Jubilee pendant is inspired by the Crown Regalia and has been specially created by Clogau in association with Historic Royal Palaces, for 2012.

Containing a touch of rare Welsh gold, and adorned with seven diamonds, the Royal Jubilee pendant provides a beautifully handcrafted piece of fine jewellery to mark this special Royal occasion. RRP £840.

Tel: 0845 606 8877 www.clogau.co.uk

Outstanding Cufflink Designs Ltd

The integral design of the ‘Volte’ cufflink has evolved from an exploration of form and function. This three dimensional sculptural piece is a signature of Lee Graham’s distinctive creative style and the design won a silver award in the 2011 Goldsmiths Craft Council Competition. Shown here is a cufflink in sterling silver, with black ruthenium plating.

RRP £395 Tel: 07955 060 100 www.outstandingcufflinkdesigns.co.uk

Some interesting services can also be found at the Somerset House show:

Loose Gemstones – RM Shah

Solitaire Gemmological Laboratories

A selection of beautiful Zambian emeralds cut by artisans in Jaipur, India, from R M Shah’s collection of fine gemstones.

Tel: 020 7405 2162 www.rmshahltd.co.uk

Solitaire Gemmological Laboratories will be launching its full diamond report which aims to give a comprehensive overview of a diamond’s features and plots any inclusions on a clearly illustrated graphic of the diamond.

It will also identify any enhancements that have been made to a diamond’s clarity through laser drilling or fracture filling.

The diamond’s facets and dimensions are scanned using specialist hardware and are presented in a clear, concise and aesthetically

pleasing manner. Tel: 020 3176 4270 www.solitaire-labs.com

The Voice of the Industry 43

| BJA Feature Treasure aving quickly built up a reputation for introducing cutting edge designers to the design savvy consumer, the Treasure show has taken place in some interesting venues in the capital. From the Tower of London to the old flower market in Covent Garden and more recently Bloomsbury Square Holborn, the public has been treated to over 80 contemporary designer jewellers in one venue. This year it arrives at Somerset House from 14th-17th June, this time with more than 150 designers taking part!

“We are delighted that Treasure is now at such an iconic venue as Somerset House during 2012, and look forward to seeing the show continue to grow with both international designers and visitors, as well as continuing our support for emerging designers,” says Della Tinsley, the show director.

One of the major changes for 2012 has been the selection process both UK and international designers have participated in – jeweller Elizabeth Galton, jewellery retailer Nathalie Kabiri and Tinsley herself making up the panel. Galton has also edited the show and the exhibition will be split into seven main areas: Fashion Gallery; Design Gallery; Fine Jewellery Gallery; Emerge – New Jeweller Gallery; Essence – Ethical Jewellery Gallery; Waterside Studios and Boutiques for the larger companies.

H

“I work mainly with perspex and precious metals and am delighted this show will be focused on unusual design,” says Sarah.

The ‘Constellation’ cuff is a special edition as each one is unique. The surface is a matt frosted black and the Swarovski crystals are embedded so they shimmer and shine.

RRP £85. Tel: 07815 310 969 www.saraheytondesigns.co.uk

“I’m really looking forward to showcasing my new collections in the Essence Pavilion.

It’s a fantastic venue, renowned for its art and cultural connections, and with a history of some of the best jewellery shows around.” says Linnie who was one of the first licensees for Fairtrade Fairmined gold when it launched last year. Along with Fairtrade gold she works on 100 per cent recycled silver and responsibly sourced gemstones.

The quirkily named ‘jealous, much?’ ring in 100 per cent recycled silver with 18ct gold ‘eco-plating’. RRP £288. Tel: 07811 022560 www.linniemclarty.com

Fiona Hutchinson

Malcolm Morris

Malcolm Morris in the Design Gallery points out that “more and more people are interested in buying jewellery direct from the designer with information and details of how things are made, which makes it a much more enjoyable experience. As a designer maker I am often creating jewellery alone in my studio so Treasure provides me with a fantastic platform to meet the public, get important feedback and sell jewellery to people who will hopefully remember that personal contact.” Set of 3 oxidized silver rings with red enamel by Malcolm Morris.

RRP £630. Tel: 020 8521 4984 www.malcolm-morris.com

Sarah Eyton

The fairtrade jewellers CRED, as well as exhibiting many new collections, is curating Essence which will be showcasing ethical jewellers. “We have been working with MA design students at John Cass who are designing the space and creating ethical mens jewellery collections; the winner will have their pieces put into production to be sold through CRED,” explains Niki Clark. Cred’s Jubilee rings recycled silver with ethical gemstones from Brazil. RRP £200 each.

Tel: 01243 773588 www.credjewellery.com

Linnie McLarty

Cred

Fiona will show during Jewellery Week for the first time and can be found in the Emerge – New Jeweller Gallery. Being a qualified gemmologist has a strong influence on her work and gems are included in all her collections. Inspired by the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee her English Rose pendant is crafted in silver, each with a stamen inset with a coloured gem.

“These pieces are eye-catching yet easy to wear and no two pieces are ever the same. I am so pleased that TV presenter Clare Balding will be wearing one of these necklaces at Ascot this month”, she added. The ‘English Rose’ is available on a variety of necklaces including strings of freshwater pearls or gem stone beads in matching or complementary hues.

RRP £528. Tel: 07970 368800 www.fionahutchinson.co.uk

44 The Jeweller June 2012

| BJA Feature The Goldsmiths Company Pavilion unning from 13th-17th June, the Goldsmiths’ Company Pavilion, a contemporary jewellery summer selling exhibition, is set to be one of the highlights of the season as it will showcase 80 of the most exciting independent designer-makers in the UK. It will take place in the newly refurbished East Wing of Somerset House, a spectacular neo-classical building and one of London’s architectural gems – the perfect venue for a dazzling show of spectacular design-focused jewellery.

The Goldsmiths’ Company Pavilion is all about stunning cutting-edge creations with standout vibrant and colourful pieces. In addition to the excellent fine jewellers working in gold, silver and platinum – considered to be the signature of the Goldsmiths’ Company – visitors can expect to see jewellers making use of a range of supplementary materials including: Perspex, resin, Whitby jet, recycled materials and other surprising elements.

The event is designed to appeal to avid collectors from around the world, luxury fashion shoppers, art enthusiasts, jewellery obsessive’s, high-end design aficionados, tourists in London for the cultural season and anyone with an emotional (or business) connection to jewellery.

R

Tomasz Donocik

Tomasz is looking forward to the new show and comments that “this year’s venue, a landmark on the map of London, has the advantage of being strongly associated with London Fashion Week and the fashion scene”. Inspired by the paradox of the natural world the ‘Garden of Good & Evil’ has achieved international success in the fashion luxury market. Venus Fly Trap ring RRP £5,500. Tel: 07916 332036 www.tomaszdonocik.com

Amy Keeper

“I’m very excited to be taking part in Goldsmith’s Pavilion. Exhibiting with Goldsmith’s will be an absolute honour and Somerset House is one of my favourite places in London so it should be a lovely experience. I will be showing some new pieces to both of my collections,” says designer Amy Keeper. Her ‘Kiss’ bracelet made in sterling silver, photo-etched with images from vintage postcards and oxidised. RRP £370. Tel: 07989 744869 www.amykeeperewellery.co.uk

Day C

“I am so happy to have been selected to participate at this first time event for the Goldsmiths Company at this lovely location,” says designer and Old Church Street boutique owner Lilly Hastedt. Snowflake earrings RRP £5,800. 020 3055 0166 www.lillyhastedt.com

Daisy is debuting with the Goldsmiths’ Company and is thrilled to have been chosen: “I will be showing my wearable yet playful and meaningful designs to full effect at this show, especially my egg collection which has been revisited and refreshed,” explains designer Daisy Choi. 3cm half egg-shaped rose gold ring with south sea pearl RRP £375. Tel: 07919 272058 www.dayc.co.uk

46 The Jeweller June 2012

Lilly Hastedt

Josef Koppmann

“I am delighted to be able to take part for the first time at this show,” says Josef, designer and OXO Tower retailer. “The huge line-up of independent designer makers in the marvellous surroundings of Somerset House will most certainly capture the public imagination and ensure that this is a mustsee exhibition.” Silver and 24 carat gold ring with aquamarine RRP on request. Tel: 020 7928 6252 www.josefkoppmann.com

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The Voice of the Industry 47

| Opinion: Nicholas Major

Looking back at a Major achievement As NAG chairman Nicholas Major prepares to hand over his chain of office, we quiz him on his time on the top table and request a few words of wisdom on the jewellery industry today.

Had you held other posts within the NAG before becoming chairman?

Yes – I was on the Council first of all, then became a member of the Registered Valuers Committee, a director, RV chairman, then vice-chairman of the Association.

Has your shop been a member of the NAG since your father’s time and did he hold any particular roles in the Association?

Yes it was and also before that – in my grandfather’s day. Sadly neither of them held any particular roles in the Association but they were always staunch supporters and believers in good ethics, professionalism and high standards.

When you accepted the position what did you hope to bring to the role? What are the qualities required of a chairman?

I hoped to be able to at least maintain the high standards set by my predecessors. My key qualities are probably my enthusiasm, passion for the industry and loyalty. They have all assisted me to promote the NAG at every possible opportunity. I feel a chairman needs a good knowledge of our industry, be able to maintain confidentiality and be prepared to give total commitment. It is also a great help that when you come across something you do not know sufficiently enough about that you ‘know a man that does’!

Did you have any concerns about the time that being chairman might take up – taking you away from your day job?

I did, but having already experienced the position of chairman of the RV Committee, I was a little prepared for the challenges ahead. Fortunately I have received great support from my family, staff, fellow directors and all involved with the NAG – members

48 The Jeweller June 2012

and employees alike. I am very grateful to everyone for this support and allowing me the great privilege of being the chairman.

What would you say have been the highlights of the past two years?

I am delighted to say these have been too numerous to mention, but to name some: the annual dinners of the Retail Jewellers of Ireland and the Yorkshire Centre; the celebration of the London Assay Office; The Trial of the Pyx; Pewter Live; the NAG’s own Education Awards; the launch of the Diamond Jubilee Mark at Goldsmiths’ Hall; the opening of the Goldsmiths’ Centre and of course all of our own meetings.

The people I have met have been amazing.

I have been so fortunate in getting to know a multitude of famous, knowledgeable and interesting characters within our trade as well as many students and people starting their careers. To name drop, I have also had the great pleasure of meeting HRH Princess Alexandra, the Queen’s Remembrancer, the City’s Remembrancer and George Osborne!

Are there any actions left undone that you would have liked to have seen completed before you hand the chain of office over – either by you or by others?

There must always be something that needs to be done in any healthy organisation.

Although I will shortly no longer be chairman, I hope to still be actively involved with the work in progress and with any other forthcoming matters thus contributing wherever possible to the NAG. What are the main concerns that face jewellery retailers currently?

I think security must be one of the prime concerns and I hope as many members as

possible will attend our security conference meeting on 16th October in Watford which will cover this topic at great length and which promises to be a most important day none of us should miss. Others issues that matter greatly are: maintaining our high UK standards; education; the promotion of our IRV to both the insurance industry and the general public as well as trying to address the decline of the High Street. Mary Portas might have started this last job but I am convinced we need to promote some of the answers. Our last Council meeting held at the Goldsmiths’ Centre certainly stimulated us and gave us many ideas.

In 2004 Jonathan Lambert said that his theme for 2005 was “lifelong learning” – would you say you had a particular ‘theme’ or ‘message’ during your two years?

This I cannot answer in the singular as there are several issues that have been my 'theme'. I totally agree with Jonathan’s as the great thing about our trade is, as my father said to me, “you never stop learning”.

My 'war horses' are many, but to name a few I would say: championing the need to move with the times; promoting education and professionalism; encouraging younger members to join in and participate and finally, looking into how we can encompass those businesses that are not currently members so that we can represent our retail industry as a whole.

What advice would you pass on to your successor?

I have every confidence my successor, Pravin Pattni, will need no advice from me as he is more than qualified and capable.

However, I would always be delighted to assist at any time if required.

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WORKING TOGETHER TO SQUASH IT! While every month brings depressing news of raids on jewellery businesses, there have also been a number of recent crimefighting successes. Indeed, the NAG’s SaferGems initiative continues to thwart crime on a daily basis – along with other industry products and services all designed to help prevent crime. Our overview of security issues here is vital reading for any jeweller wishing to stamp down hard on crime.

Safergems Update HMRC imposters threaten store On Thursday 10th May 2012 a SaferGems alert was sent out following a robbery at a store in Rochdale, Greater Manchester.

Two men claiming to be from Her Majesty’s Revenue & Customs (HMRC) visited an Asian-owned jewellery store, stole £10,000 worth of goods and threatened the victims with a firearm.

Within five minutes of the alert going out, a SaferGems member in the Prestwich area of Manchester reported to SaferGems that he had that day received a telephone call from a person claiming to be from HMRC, who stated they were going to visit his store the following day. This information was passed directly to Greater Manchester Police which prevented a potentially serious incident occurring.

Estonian gang jailed It was gratifying to learn from a recent bulletin that an Estonian gang of eight who had carried out at least 150 armed robberies in Britain and Europe over a period of seven years, have been jailed for a total

50 The Jeweller June 2012

of 82 years. Berry’s in Leeds were targeted by the gang four times between 2005 and 2007, while jewellers in Manchester, Newcastle Upon Tyne, Chester and Wolverhampton were also victims of armed, daylight raids. In total they were estimated to have made more than £2million from 11 raids in Britain. The gang are thought to have recruited their members by getting them into debt through drugs.

Bolton armed robbers sentenced This April a team of armed robbers from the Bolton area appeared at Preston Crown Court for sentencing for their part in conspiring to commit three armed robberies in Burnley and Bolton between February and May 2011. All four were given significant prison terms. One target of the attacks was

Muzzafers’ Jewellers in Burnley which lost £30,000 of traditional Asian jewellery.

Back in early 2011 SaferGems circulated an alert to its members advising them to be on the lookout for two men and a child who were suspected of being involved in two incidents that took place in the centre of Farnham, Surrey. As a result of of intelligence collected and collated by SaferGems, one of the two suspects, Marco Kivec, pleaded guilty to two offences of theft, at jewellers in Hampshire and Surrey, while an older man, Puiu Horbas, was charged with jewelleryrelated offences dating back to 2009.

Giving a pat on the back for the SaferGems scheme, an officer in charge of this case said “Had it not been for the support received from jewellers, who read the SaferGems alerts, the three males would not have been detained and arrested… the speed of information being passed back to the officer in the case was very impressive.”

Successes

by Fog Bandit…

Despite the alarming – and very regular – reports of attacks on jewellers’ businesses, it’s not all bad news. Physical deterrents employed by a growing number of retailers is a sign that we’re fighting back. Fog Bandit, which has foiled 15 jeweller robberies in the last two years (with zero faults or injuries to staff) reports on two recent successes: In early August 2011, Sant Jewellers & Sons in Southampton was attacked by two raiders who smashed through the front entrance

Since 2009 SaferGems has assisted jewellers and the police in over 500 cases by providing effective communication, thus helping to prevent jewellery theft and burglary.

For more details or to join SaferGems call 0845 272 7802

Security Feature | Fog Bandit has foiled 15 jeweller robberies in the UK in the last two years. and targeted the jewellery cabinets. Almost immediately, the vigilant staff initiated the high speed security Fog Bandit device which in two seconds projected a six metre blanket of visually impenetrable, yet harmless, fog across the shop, screening the targeted display cabinets and forcing the raiders to turn and flee the shop, minimising the stock loss, shop damage and trauma to staff.

Ram Parkash Sunderdass & Sons Jewellers on The Broadway, Southall was saved from attack by Fog Bandit last September 2011 and the owner explained that “the voice warning announcer did a great job in quickly driving the raiders out of the shop, restricting the time and opportunity to target the jewellery and limiting our staff exposure to this frightening experience”.

“We applaud the staff during both of these incidents for acting promptly in initiating the Fog Bandit and forcing the raiders to leave their shops,” says sales director Neil Chrismas. “These are further examples of the clear deterrent message to the criminal fraternity that targeting jewellers who have a Fog Bandit system installed is a fruitless exercise and heightens the likelihood of being caught. We have now installed 15 shops along The Broadway in Southall, West London with the system.”

Visit: www.bandituk.co.uk

…and Smoke Screen Another loss prevention system, Concept’s Smoke Screen, can also report on a few thwarted raids on jewellers recently.

The thermally generated fog works by being confrontational, hiding goods and people and amplifying the robber’s biggest enemy … time.

Mahul Visram, proprietor of Ram Jewellers on Leicester’s Golden Mile, was the victim of a daylight raid in January: “I was attending customers at the far end of the business and we heard two large bangs.

I took a peep and I saw raiders smashing into the front door. We’ve had several incidents throughout the years, but this was the scariest one, because there were sledgehammers involved.”

Remaining calm he directed his staff and customers to safety. “We have a door entry system and the glass in the door is tough, but they still got inside,” he says.

Once everyone was at the back of the store, Visram activated the Smoke Screen.

“The smoke seemed to drive them away and that was it. It was all over in maybe 10 seconds. We just think that we had a lucky escape – the smoke prevented more damage being done.”

App designed by Facewatch with images supplied by the MET Police. The App has already been responsible for the identification of 29 people in trials held over the last two months.

The App will be available to users of all phones using BlackBerry, Apple (iphone and ipad) or Android technology and provides a selection of unidentified images of people the police would like to talk to within areas selected by distance from a postcode entered into the App by the user.

If an image is known to the viewer they have the opportunity to take action and confidentially send information directly to the police using the App. Facewatch id is now available to all police forces in the UK, a number of whom are lining up to sign up to it. Visit: www.facewatch.co.uk for more information.

Mobile payment security Precious metal theft is not exclusive to the UK – it’s a global phenomenon. Last month a Smoke Screen successfully stopped a daring raid on a jewellers in Hungary.

Two young men attempted a smash and grab in broad daylight on a busy main road in full view of shoppers. After breaking an external window with a rock and grasping at the jewellery on display, they fled, frightened off by the Smoke Screen installed inside the store.

To find out more information on the full range of products, from the entry level to the most powerful on the market, visit: www.smoke-screen.co.uk

ID criminals with Facewatch he Metropolitan Police is asking the London public for help in identifying thousands of images relating to low level crimes from across the Capital using a new App called Facewatch id. To help make identification extremely easy the images will be made available via a unique mobile phone

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With consumer demand for mobile payments increasing, SecureTrading, the UK’s leading independent payment processor has partnered with Delos Solutions to provide retailers with a secure and efficient method to take mobile payments securely even if there is no 3G coverage or network availability. The only requirement is that the retailer is equipped to provide the service.

SecureTrading is focused on enabling retailers to provide a seamless customer experience so that consumers can buy whenever, wherever, and by whatever means they choose. The flexibility of the system means that it can be configured to meet each retailer’s individual needs.

This enables retailers to adapt the system to reflect their own specific vision and sales strategy.

Critically, SecureTrading and the Delos Mobile Payment System integrate with existing EPoS, removing capital outlay costs and the need for printed till receipts while enhancing the customer experience. It is compatible with other CRM and marketing systems, allowing retailers to push their own fully branded promotions, messages, and loyalty mechanisms straight to the customer’s mobile phone, all of which is supported by SecureTrading’s fully integrated payment gateway. For more information, as well as tips on reducing the threat of online fraud, visit: www.securetrading.com

The Voice of the Industry 51

| Security Feature

Don’t let opportunity knock!

Both the UK and global economies have yielded some of the worst financial performance since World War ll. Research conducted by sociologists, criminologists, and economists shows that opportunistic crimes like theft and burglary increase during financial crises, warns Matthew Armstrong, business manager for GDIT HCM. hen people are experiencing serious economic hardship, opportunity crime seems to become more frequent. Complementary research conducted by economists also indicated that non-violent property crimes (eg burglary and theft) are more likely to increase during an economic downturn than violent crimes.

Three psychosocial theories of human behaviour support the notion that when employees experience a turbulent economic downturn, they are at greater risk of engaging in employee crime and deviance. Together these ideas give a very good picture of the impact the economy may have on employee crime and deviance.

(1) The Employee Risk Triangle Theory: a common-sense theory of employee theft and deviance. Three forces cause deviant behaviour, such as employee theft and counter-proNeed ductivity – need, opportunity and attitude. During an economic downturn the need for ‘on-the-job’ deviance for finanRisk cial gain is arguably higher. Retailers can minimise the opporOpportunity Attitude tunity through physical security features such as CCTV, but they most often overlook ’attitude’ – it is key to ensure you The Employee Risk Triangle are not recruiting staff with counterproductive attitudes.

(2) The Stress Facilitation Theory: employees definitely experience more stress during economic downturns. When more dishonest employees experience heightened job stress, they are more likely to think of stealing. Researchers have consistently documented that employees who endorse dishonest attitudes toward theft are reliably more likely to steal at work than job candidates and employees who endorse intolerant and punitive attitudes toward theft.

(3) The Social Disorder Theory: signs of disorder can lead to other broken social norms and resultant delinquent behaviours. When people see signs of disorder they are significantly more likely, on average, to violate social norms and rules themselves. Last year’s riots is an obvious example. However, the same psychology relates in a retail environment. If employees see others engaging in unacceptable behaviour they are more likely to do likewise.

Human resource professionals, risk managers, and loss control specialists are in unknown territory when it comes to anticipating how this historic economic downturn will impact their workforces. However, the research shows that workplace crimes associated with employee dishonesty will increase during the current economic downturn and employees who possess tolerant attitudes toward employee theft and dishonesty are significantly more likely to engage in such deviant behaviours themselves than workers with the opposite view.

Research suggests that on average one-third of all employees are at risk of engaging in some degree of on-the-job theft and counter productivity. These dishonest employees are more likely to commit on-the-job theft of cash, merchandise, and even time. In the digital age they also have access to a wide range of electronic corporate assets including online customer data, credit/debit card numbers, and corporate records.

While retailers must swiftly adapt to the pressures of a weak economy, they also need to ensure that the Employee Risk Triangle is managed. They also need to mitigate the adverse impact of economy-related distress among their staff. One risk management programme that fits across all three theoretical models is the ongoing use of pre-employment integrity tests to ensure that job candidates are properly screened for their attitudes toward job-related integrity and ethics. It would be one less thing to worry about…

W

52 The Jeweller June 2012

WORKING TOGETHER TO SQUASH IT!

Low cost surveillance abbakam is an online system for managing camera networks. A camera is attached to a router and a power source, pointed at a particular space and then the user can login to jabbakam.com to be up and running.

The system can be set up to alert users when it detects motion, so if something occurs when a shop is closed the proprietor will get an alert and can log in and view the footage immediately and report any crime to the police swiftly.

Jabbakam allows camera owners to build collaborative networks with neighbouring retailers, groups or organisations to create communities, all sharing a common responsibility. This system also allows users to view recorded footage remotely, on internet-connected PCs, laptops, smartphones or PDAs, with a secure platform that ensures only authorised network members can view the footage they have been given permission to view. Visit: www.jabbakam.com

J

A clever key system A testimonial by Stefan Leprowski, owner of Karol Marketing “When running your own business, security is obviously a prime consideration, but that doesn’t have to mean carrying around huge bunches of keys all the time. When I decided to install a Mul-T-Lock system in my home (to give us increased security after being featured on Grand Designs!) it seemed logical to have the same system installed across my office too, so I only ever need to carry one key!

“The advantage of this patented key system is that keys can’t be copied without proof of ownership, meaning that if you give a key to a friend or member of staff, you know that they are not getting copies made

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The Voice of the Industry 53

S E V E I H T T E L T ’ N T I DO H T I W Y A W A T GE “Concept Smoke Screen have revo lutionised our approach to daytime raids an d the results have been phenom enal.” - Aurum H oldings

Please quote CSSJM6 when replying to this advert

‘When the device goes off it absolu tely fills the shop you cannot see an ything. We have se en they are effectiv - Belgrave Neigh e.” bourhood Policin g Team

them away med to drive e se ke o sm “The ver in it. It was all o and that was k that we s. We just thin d n o c se 10 e ented mayb e smoke prev th , e p a sc e llers had a lucky - Ram Jewe .” e n o d g in e eb more damag

CAN’T SEE IT?

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Security Feature |

Security at night WORKING TOGETHER TO SQUASH IT!

without your knowledge. It is particularly important for jewellers, who have such valuable stock, to know exactly who has access to the premises. The interactive CLIQ system offers a perfect combination of a traditional key with an electromechanical locking system. It allows access authorisations to be controlled, individually programming each key and cylinder. Not only can you tell which member of staff has entered the premises and when, this ‘audit trail’ can also help catch a thief in the unfortunate event of a key getting into the wrong hands.

“If you have a member of staff who no longer works for you and fails to return their key, it can be easily cancelled through the computer, leaving your system just as secure as before.

“While I have the benefit of one key for home and work, a jeweller can exploit the possibilities of a Mul-T-Lock system still further and have it installed across all cabinets, stockrooms and showcases and master keyed to grant different levels of access.”

NAG/Retailer Security Conference nderscoring the importance of security issues to those in the jewellery industry, the NAG has announced a special NAG/ Retailer Security Conference, to take place on 16th October, 2012. Held at the Building Research Establishment in Watford, the inaugural event, which will be co-hosted by TH March and SaferGems, will comprise seminars from guest speakers, as well as information on security providers. For more details or to book a place contact Ian Francis at: ian@jewellers-online.co.uk

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Dr Steffan George, development director of the Master Locksmiths Association (MLA), underlines the key to out-of-hours security. ou may feel your shop is well protected against crime during the day – but what about overnight? In the light of last year’s riots and the continuing threat of break-in, it’s important that jewellers ensure that they are well set up in terms of out-of-hours security.

In reviewing the security you have in place to protect your stock and premises out-ofhours, I always recommend working from the outside in. As a first port of call, examine the location. It’s important to review the perimeter and access points to ensure that your shop is not at risk. On that note, ensure you remove any bins, ladders and delivery crates that could be used as tools to gain access via windows or to break down doors.

One of the most cost-effective ways to bolster your external security is to work alongside neighbouring businesses to pool funds and share resources. By joining forces you can divide the cost of having good quality locking systems and secure external doors, grilles or fences.

Lighting and CCTV can be installed throughout a row of shops so all outlets are protected.

CCTV and dusk-to-dawn lighting in particular can act as deterrents as well as monitoring aids, which in turn helps create a good reputation for the area.

When considering how to protect your premises at night, sensor lights will reveal any suspicious behaviour – and when used in conjunction with CCTV they can ensure that you have a record of all activity that has taken place outside your shop overnight. If you already have CCTV installed, it’s worth calling out an expert to ensure it’s fully serviced.

In terms of window security, consider whether you want to install roller shutters. Obviously protective grilles of this sort are the safest way to protect your stock and premises overnight.

However, many jewellers want to take advantage of window shoppers and to leave certain items lit and on display. If you decide to take this route, the key is to have reinforced glass installed to ensure you are adequately protected against attempted break-in.

It’s also particularly important to review the security of your doors. Ask a Master Locksmiths Association (MLA) vetted, inspected and qualified locksmith to come out and check that your current locks are adequate. They will be able to carry out a security audit at the same time, giving you overall peace of mind. The MLA has recently launched a new Diamond Standard for cylinder locks, working alongside its testing and accreditation subsidiary company Sold Secure. All locks which meet this standard are protected against the lock bypass methods which have been recently used by criminals to force entry.

It is also worth bearing in mind how many copies of the keys to your shop might be in circulation. The MLA recommend that you use a patented system whereby keys can’t be copied without proof of ownership, meaning that nobody can make copies of your keys without your knowledge and gain access with a key out-of-hours.

In the event that an intruder does manage to break in, it’s imperative that your alarm system is working correctly. When did you last change your alarm code? Could anyone have passed this information on? The more people know the code, the more compromised the system becomes. It’s worth getting a specialist in to test the alarm is in good working order.

Having stock that is beautiful and valuable is both a jeweller’s joy and their burden. You may want to maximise the opportunity to display stock out of hours, but if this strategy is adopted it must be backed up by storing the vast majority of valuable stock away in a safe overnight. Fortunately there are many excellent safe systems to choose from, but it’s important to ensure that you select a safe which meets the right cash and valuables ratings for your business. To make sure that you choose the right safe for your needs consider taking expert advice from an MLA-approved professional who will be able to ensure that it meets your insurance stipulations and recommend a company to provide third-party accreditation.

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About the MLA The MLA, a not-for-profit organisation, promotes standards of conduct, practice and materials within locksmithing. Visit www.locksmiths.co.uk for a list of approved MLA companies.

The Voice of the Industry 55

| Security Feature

Strategies for risk avoidance at work While no-one can say if and when an attack will happen, it is possible to do a great deal to prevent it, as Neil McFarlane of TH March insurance brokers explains.

General points of advice Always be aware of people hanging around and be suspicious of people in vehicles who could potentially be watching your premises. Look out for cars you’ve spotted previously, these could be possible robbers, checking out your shop.

Be alert for the unusual • People showing unreasonable interest in security or staff numbers • Pointless or ill thought-out enquiries • Groups of people who would not be expected to shop together • Persons asking to see high value items who seem unlikely to be able to purchase them • Nervous persons Always check the identity of noncustomer visitors such as alarm engineers and surveyors. Take the time to call the organisations they represent before allowing access.

Encourage your staff to think critically about weakness in security and to discuss these with management. Keeping a record

of suspicious people, events or vehicles and their registrations will really help and a service like SaferGems is excellent for this.

Your insurance broker is always on hand to answer any queries you may have.

Opening and closing procedures These are your most vulnerable times, so you need to be prepared; at least two members of staff should be involved, and the keys should be split as follows: • One member of staff should have a safe key or knowledge of the combination, the other should have the premises keys and alarm key/code • If a safe has more than one locking system, implement dual control dividing the keys/code and combinations between staff Make sure your entry and exit points are always via the most public entrance – the front of the premises is without question the best. It is worth considering time locks and time delay locks on safes and make sure opening and closing staff carry mobile personal attack alarms.

WORKING TOGETHER TO SQUASH IT!

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No one – even uniformed police or postmen – should be admitted unless they are particularly well-known to you and clearly seen as not being followed

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Offer to escort sales reps to and from their vehicles

56 The Jeweller June 2012

When opening the shop The person with the premises and alarm key/code should enter the premises, lock themselves in, disarm the alarm and check the entire premises to ensure that intruders are not lying in wait A prearranged sign should be made by the person on the premises to show the person outside that entry is safe.

The visual indicator should be changed frequently During this procedure the person with the safe key should be standing clear of the premises but in a position to observe as necessary If the prearranged signal is not given you should not investigate but should report the circumstances to the police Once the sign has been given, the second person and other members of

staff may be admitted to the premises During this time, care must be taken to ensure that they are not being followed into the premises. This should also include the first person watching them carefully during this time After entry, the door must be kept locked until dressing of the window has been completed.

No one – even uniformed police or postmen – should be admitted unless they are particularly wellknown to you and clearly seen as not being followed

At closing time • The opening procedure is reversed with the door being locked and no callers admitted until windows have been cleared and the safe relocked

Security Feature |

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The person with the safe key should then depart the building and remain at a distant vantage point until they see the other key holders leave the premises safely having set the alarm

While open for business • Window backs and internal showcases must have keys which cannot easily be duplicated or purchased from a hardware store. They should be carried by each member of staff, not hung on a convenient hook

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Window backs and internal showcases must be relocked immediately after an item of pad is removed Pads should not be passed to a customer for inspection; remove the article the customer wishes to inspect and place the pad out of reach under the counter while an item is discussed and avoid having more than one pad in reach at any one time Show high value goods as far away from the door as possible and preferably only one piece at a time. Be particularly

cautious when staff numbers are depleted e.g. lunchtime, illness or holidays. Stagger lunchtimes and use an electric lock in the entry door even if you do not normally do so Personal attack alarm buttons should be situated where they can be used unobtrusively and mobile personal attack alarms are recommended.

Avoid inspecting manufacturers’ ranges in the public area of the shop.

Offer to escort reps to their cars

Suspicious persons Most armed robbers do not allow time for you to act on suspicions, but if you are suspicious of persons in your shop: • Alert colleagues with a prearranged but innocuous phase • Depending on the number of staff available, one should move to the door to deter an unarmed snatch • Other staff should be alert for snatches, switches or pilferage • Use excuses to avoid showing high value items • Always consider notifying SaferGems

The Voice of the Industry 57

| Antique Jewellery

Antique JEWELLERY

in particular the ever-greedy Henry VIII; that same monarch’s dissolution of the monasteries, in which all the monastic silver was seized, and finally the Civil War itself, when desperate armies on both sides melted down any silver they could seize to help with their chronic lack of battle funds.

The situation was dire – very little silver remained, and the standing of silver craftsmen themselves was diminished. With long client lists of nobles and rich merchants keen to replenish their silver stocks and a poor supply of silver with which to work,

French Fancies Jo Young explores the huge contribution made by French Huguenot craftspeople to the history of British silver. hroughout history – most particularly, the history of Europe – significant events have been shaped largely through violence, oppression and conflict of one kind or another. Though it is, perhaps, depressing to think of it this way, it is through the consequent movement of people and reshaping of society that some of our most interesting political, social and even aesthetic ideas have been born.

This would certainly be true in the case of the Huguenots whose contributions to the gold and silversmithing around the world far outweigh in significance their size as a people.

The background The England that was left at the end of the brutal and bloody Civil War was one in which silver as a commodity was terribly scarce. This was caused by a number of the (aforementioned) conflicts and disruptive events in times gone by. The first of these was the enthusiastic looting of his violentlywon territories by William the Conqueror, in which a great deal of plate was melted down. Further depletion of the nation’s silver stock followed with the War of the Roses in the 15th Century; a series of compulsory loans made to Tudor and Stuart monarchs – Image courtesy of SJ Phillips

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George I silver cream jug by David Willaume, London c.1720

58 The Jeweller June 2012

De Lamerie kettle

many goldsmiths had resorted to cutting corners – the effect on their reputation was inevitable.

As the silver historian John Luddington put it, “how things would have turned out is anyone’s guess”. It was, as it turned out, thanks to one single political act – in France of all places – that the future of English silver was altered: and that act was the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685.

The Edict was a law created in April 1598 by the French King Henry IV. In what was then a Catholic country, the Edict gave permission for Protestant people – who were known as Huguenots and then estimated to number around 800,000 – to live and work in France. In essence, it was a wellintentioned attempt by the King to secure safe standing and some civil rights for this maligned group and to create social harmony between the Catholic majority and

the Huguenots. As well as a desire to end the long-running Wars of Religion, Henry IV was, in sentiment, sympathetic to the Protestant cause, as he himself was a former Protestant who had converted to Catholicism only as a means to secure his throne in 1593.

Crucially, the Edict gave the Huguenots permission to work in any field or for the state. It was the 1685 removal of this ‘right to work’ by Henry IV’s grandson Louis XIV (who felt threatened by the size of the Huguenot population) that triggered a mass exodus of Huguenot workers from French soil, including a significant number of highly-skilled goldsmiths. These Huguenot refugees fled for the most part to sympathetic Protestant states throughout Europe, including Russia, the Netherlands and Germany. Many left France for its near neighbour – Britain.

Huguenots in London

Pair of Queen Anne silver-gilt two handled bowls and covers by Pierre Platel, London, c. 1700

It was, as it turned out, thanks to one single political act – in France of all places – that the future of English silver was altered…

Image courtesy of SJ Phillips

At first, the Huguenot people who arrived in the English capital were not, it is fair to say, made to feel terribly welcome. Already stateless refugees, they found themselves on arrival in fierce competition with the native craftspeople in the impressive number of skilled trades in which they principally operated – including weaving,

Image courtesy of SJ Phillips

Antique Jewellery |

furniture-making and goldsmithing. Indeed, petitions were handed in to almost every public body in the city in protest at the ‘foreigners’ who, it was felt, undercut the wages paid to native workers. The goldsmiths were no exception, putting together at least two of their own petitions as the 17th Century drew to a close.

However, the Huguenots were exceptionally skilled and, it soon transpired, were able to breathe new creative life into the exhausted goldsmithing trade. Throughout much of the 18th century, their contribution was enormous, and Huguenot names – such as Pierre Harache, Paul Lamerie, Pierre Platel, and Lewis Mattayer – are among the most important in the silversmithing industry of the period.

Pierre Harache (1630 – 1712?)

Pair of Queen Anne silver-gilt candlesticks by Pierre Platel, London 1713

Born in Rouen in France, Harache was the first Huguenot goldsmith to be admitted to the Goldsmiths’ Company in 1682.

He came from a family of goldsmiths, who made a large collective contribution to English silversmithing over a period of nearly 100 years, but among whom he was the most famous name. Entered at the Goldsmith’s Hall as a largeworker (making candlesticks and hollowware), he established his business around the Charing Cross area, where he remained until his death at the turn of the century. His work is of a particularly high standard, typically featuring applied decoration and engraving, and he had a large and important client list.

The Voice of the Industry 59

| Antique Jewellery Pierre Platel (1664-1719) Born in 1664 in Lille to Huguenot parents, Pierre Platel fled France in 1685, firstly to Flanders and then onto England in 1688.

It is thought that he trained as a goldsmith before leaving France, but when he began working in England, having received the freedom of the Goldsmiths’ Company and registered his mark in 1699, he set up shop in Pall Mall. Producing domestic gold and silver work that was often elaborately decorated and ornamental, Platel became one of the leading goldsmiths working in the city, attracting an extremely wealthy and powerful clientele.

Though Lamerie’s work today fetches several times the value of that of his contemporaries it is suspected that he may have subcontracted some of his work to other – lesser? – craftsmen.

Image courtesy of SJ Phillips

George I silver cream jug by David Willaume, London c.1720

Paul de Lamerie (1688 - 1751) Paul de Lamerie, who has been quoted as being the 18th Century’s ‘greatest silversmith’, began his career apprenticed to Pierre Platel.

He worked for Platel from 1703 to 1711, later establishing his own workshop in 1713.

Unlike Platel, Paul de Lamerie was not French, but was born in Hertogenbosch, now the Netherlands, the son of a minor French nobleman who left his homeland following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes.

Lamerie’s early work followed the fashion of the time, and was quietly simple in style, but to modern collectors he is known mostly for his highly decorative Rococo work, which he produced from the 1730s onwards. The Rococo style, which was popular throughout Europe until eventually falling out of favour at the end of the 18th Century, is best described as ‘elaborate’, featuring scroll and figural decoration, typifying the excesses of mid-18th Century taste.

60 The Jeweller June 2012

Casters by Paul de Lamerie

Lamerie’s customers were a particularly wealthy, powerful and influential bunch, including Russian and English royalty as well as various English earls, dukes and viscounts. Interestingly, though Lamerie’s work today fetches several times the value of that of his contemporaries, some silver experts regard his work as being – on occasion – a little ordinary. He produced a particularly large body of work of varying quality and it is suspected that he may have subcontracted some of his work to other – lesser? – craftsmen.

French church doorframe in Soho commemorating the asylum granted to the Huguenots

by King Edward VI

Simon Pantin (1680 – 1728) Another son of a French Huguenot family, Pantin was the son of a goldsmith working in St James’s – where Lamerie had his workshop – who began his goldsmithing career apprenticed to Pierre Harache in 1694. Pantin received his own mark in 1701 and was naturalised in England in 1709. Interestingly, Pantin’s mark incorporated a picture of a peacock following the then French tradition of including symbols from a craftsman’s life or work in their maker’s mark: his workshop was then located in Peacock Street in Soho.

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Sales & Exhibitions

14th-17th: Treasure, Somerset House, London WC2 A platform for new and established jewellery talent, selected by industry insiders. Included will be the ethical area, Essence, as well as a new bridal section. www.treasureuk.com

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

June 1st June-28th July: Gold – Power & Allure, The Goldsmiths’ Company, London EC2 Exhibition celebrating and showing the working and use of gold in the UK over the past 4,500 years with around 400 gold items, from ancient to modern. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk 12th-14th: Pewter Live, Pewterers’ Hall, London EC2 Revolving around an annual design competition, this three day event showcases the work of up-and-coming as well as established designers working in pewter. www.pewterers.org.uk 13th-17th: The Goldsmiths’ Company Pavilion, Somerset House, London WC2 Part of London Jewellery Week, this show highlights the work of 80 vetted modern jewellers such as Nicholas James, Jon Dibben and Mark Soley. The area will be arranged by category. www.somersethouse.org.uk

Canterbury pendant on display at Gold – Power & Allure, The Goldsmiths’ Company

62 The Jeweller June 2012

Alexandre Reza by Vivienne Becker (£600, www.assouline.com) Hand-bound, printed on cotton paper and encased in a suede box, this limited edition tome presents over 100 rare pieces by one of Paris’ most exclusive jewellers, gemmologist Alexandre Reza. Over six decades the master artisan created fashion-

15th-17th: Cockpit Arts Open Studios, London WC1 & 22nd-24th: London SE8 A chance to shop from designer makers of jewellery, such as Ute Decker, Ruth Tomlinson and Tania Clarke Hall. www.cockpitarts.com 27th-30th: New Designers, Business Design Centre, Islington, London N1 Showing the work of the next generation of designers of jewellery, metalwork and glass.

‘One Year On’ showcases collections from selected designers who have graduated since 2011. www.newdesigners.com 30th-8th July (& 31st July-7th October): Diamonds: a Jubilee Celebration, Buckingham Palace A number of pieces shown in the new book The Queen’s Diamonds will be on display. www.royalcollection.org.uk

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs June 12th-13th: The Jewellery Show London, Somerset House, London WC2

A new, trend-driven buying event to showcase the best of international brands and leading British jewellery designers. www.thejewelleryshow.com 21st-24th: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, Hong Kong Convention Centre Around 1,500 exhibitors of jewellery and gemstones from 37 countries. visitafj-hk@ubm.com 30th-3rd July: Eclat de Mode – Bijorhca, Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, France A new date, earlier in the year, for this jewellery show of fashion, haute couture, designer and fine jewellery, as well as watches, accessories. www.bijorhca.com July 3rd-4th: Jovella 2012, Tel Aviv, Israel Around 200 exhibitors showing loose diamonds, gemset gold jewellery, silver jewellery and fashion jewellery – a fusion of East and West. www.jovella.co.il 8th-10th: Scoop International, Saatchi Gallery, London SW3 A mid-season premium womenswear exhibition including a number of jewellery designers including Nicholas King, Alex Monroe and Gillian Julius. www.scoop-international.com

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The

Last Word The subject of our Last Word feature this month is John Pyke, chairman of Birkenhead jewellers Wm Pyke & Sons and current president of the NAG. Personal Profile Having gained a law degree from Trinity, Cambridge, John joined the family business in 1964 – but not before training in Bradford, Leeds, Manchester and Geneva. A year later he qualified as a fellow of the Gemmological Association and became the managing director of Pykes in 1978, then in 2006 he was joined in that position by his daughter Eleanor Pyke. Until two years ago John was a sitting JP (he retired under the Age Rule) a position that he had held for 22 years.

Who has been the biggest influence on your life?

My wife (has to be!) Running a business could be a lonely occupation at times of difficult decisions. While my wife was not involved in it in any way, her common sense approach to problems together with her unwavering support and encouragement have been invaluable.

Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Winter – Courchevel 1850. Huge skiing area, sun (usually), mountain air and breathtaking scenery. Summer – Grand Cayman.

Great diving from the shore.

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others?

Fair-minded, meticulous (irritates people at times) and patient (I think some would disagree at times!)

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over?

Without the benefit of hindsight – nothing.

With that benefit I would have changed the focus of our capital expenditure.

66 The Jeweller June 2012

What was the last film you saw at the cinema?

‘Blood Diamond’ – I enjoyed it as a film, and it did not bring about the negative effect the industry feared.

To what do you attribute your success?

Hard work Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!) Why? Hong Kong. I really do not like shopping, but the Temple Street Market has some fascinating and inexpensive products.

Tell us something not many people know about you…

I stood as the Conservative candidate for Birkenhead in the first of the two 1968 General Elections. Also, I played rugby against London Welsh with JPR Williams.

If not the jewellery industry, what might your alternative career have been?

A barrister. When I attained my law degree, all those in the Cambridge law faculty who were considering careers as barristers were told that however good we might be, it would be a minimum of five years before we could make a living. This coincided with my father asking if I would give the jewellery business a try, as he foresaw a looming problem within the family business. Thus my decision which I have very rarely, and then only fleetingly, regretted! The irony was that only two years later, even poor barristers could make a good living!

Do you Tweet?

No What is your chosen form of exercise?

Skiing (since age 17) and scuba diving which I started doing on honeymoon 35 years ago.

Quick Fire • Red or white wine? Red • Diamonds or coloured stones?

Coloured stones • White or yellow metal? White metal • TV or radio? TV • Jewellery on men?

Just cufflinks, a ring and a watch • Delegator or control freak?

Control freak • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles (especially so as I live on Merseyside!)

• Paperback or e-reader?

Paperback

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