The Jeweller October 2010 by Zest Europe

the

Jeweller October 2010

£6.50

Spotlight on diamonds Planning for Christmas – what’s hot for the festive season NAG celebrates online JET launch The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

The Voice of The Industry

Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

O C T

www.thejewellermagazine.com

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Christmas is Coming With just the whiff of mulled wine in the air, we bring you great tidings of a festive nature… I

Tis the Season

Jeweller Picks – for Christmas

Gift ideas for him, her and the kids I

Santa’s Silver

Perfect presents in British silver

Gemvision: CounterSketch

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

NAG News

Member of the Month

BJA News

Legal Jeweller

Security Update

Ethical Jeweller

Opinion: John Henn

Antique Jeweller

Insurance Matters

Notebook

IRV Review

Education & Training

Appointments

Display Cabinet

The Last Word

A closer look at the latest ‘design solution’ for retailers

Diamonds – still a girl’s best friend

Belinda Morris looks at the market trends and directions

Talking Diamonds

Tom Allen reports on a few not-quite last minute preparations retailers can make for Christmas I

Communiqué

The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For further information about The Jeweller please visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

Six diamond trade figures offer Mary Brittain their perspective on the industry

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG

In conjunction with 5C Group Email: mail@5c-group.com or contact Marlies Armstrong on tel: 07884 002312

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7833 5500

Tel: 020 7613 4445

ian@cube-uk.com

www.jewellers-online.org

Art Director: Ben Page

Editor: Belinda Morris

ben@cube-uk.com

Tel: 01692 538007

Cover Image

CUBE Publishing

bmorris@colony.co.uk

Publisher: Neil Oakford neil@cube-uk.com

BJA Marketing & PR Manager Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

Tom Allen, Mary Brittain,

Tel: 0121 237 1110

John Henn, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

Michael Hoare defends the position and relevance of the British Hallmarking Council, and wonders just how rosy the outlook is for the jewellery industry.

Last Quango in Paris he government has wasted no time in setting to work on waste and profligate spending of public money, and first in the firing line are quangos. And while they are at it they’re also having a go at excess red tape; applying sunset clauses to legislation that serves no useful purpose. You’ll remember that restricting red tape was one of the few things that all parties could agree on at our pre-election ‘hustings’ meeting. A laudable aim you might say – and normally you’d be right. But I was just a little irritated to find a letter from the National Measurement Office awaiting my return from a short holiday in mid August, politely requesting my response, by 1st September, to a consultation document on the future of the British Hallmarking Council. Not a lot of time to respond to a list of ten fairly fundamental questions and gather evidence to back your case. Even less if you consider that many of the stakeholders with a point of view would be on holiday. A swift phone call to the official undertaking the review reassured me that a short and pithy response was what was wanted, and so I got to work considering questions like: are the functions of the BHC still needed; are these functions business critical to the

4 The Jeweller October 2010

government; is the original need for the BHC still applicable; and what would happen if the functions ceased? Not only that but: must the public sector be responsible; must the public sector provide the function itself; and could they be contracted out? All good questions, I think you’ll agree – especially if your objective is cost cutting! And that’s the fundamental flaw in this whole review. The BHC is funded by the Assay Offices – not central government – and therefore no savings would result from its demise. Indeed, without the BHC, government would be faced with additional costs if it wished hallmarking to continue. Since the 1973 Act, the Council has monitored the standards and performance of all the Assay Offices in the UK while they apply consumer protection regulations that

excess of £4 billion to the UK economy would be seriously undermined. The trade is wary of the irregularities and deception that occurs in markets like America where fineness marking is not regulated by a central authority; and of the lack of credibility of hallmarking in numerous European countries where it is not overseen by a central authority. The UK hallmark is widely respected and adds cachet to British products, and the addition of a mark to palladium last year stimulated economic activity by adding to the credibility of a relatively underused precious metal. Furthermore, the hallmark is fundamental to the science of jewellery appraisal, the basis of ‘valuations’; and these in turn underpin the insurance industry. Some years ago the trade mounted a concerted campaign to prevent the current regulations from being radically altered by the European Directive and I believe many would consider the diminution of the regulations and their application an extremely retrograde step.

The Jury is still out! f newspaper reports of Mintel’s latest research into the state of the UK consumer market are to be believed, then the luxury sector has little to fear as the recession bites. While overseas travel, housing, and drinking in pubs and clubs appear to have taken a

I believe many would consider the diminution of the regulations and their application an extremely retrograde step. have their origins as far back as about 1300. The retail trade bases its entire business model on the assurances of fineness provided by hallmarking and without a rigorously applied testing and marking regime, a sector estimated to be worth in

tumble, spending on eating out, personal services, clothes and adornment are enjoying reasonable growth. That at least is the optimistic way of interpreting the results, which are after all retrospective, and these trends might so easily be reversed when the

Comment | October spending review begins to bite chunks off consumers’ disposable income. But for the time being Mintel’s results show that while consumers have curbed their thirst for pub crawls and exotic mini breaks, they are still prepared to spend on home entertainment and their appearance. But can this continue? We have recently repeated an online survey first completed in January, before the election campaign got into full swing. Rather than relying on the historic data as a predictor of future trends, our own research looks at levels of business confidence within the sector; reflects the expectations of business owners, and compares one six month period with another. So, with the coalition government in charge, and spending cuts expected in the autumn, what do NAG members think are the prospects for Christmas 2010? We asked respondents to answer ten simple yes / no style questions rating the prospects for the next six months against the last. The results will be published in full shortly. But looking at the interim responses, early indications are that the percentage of respondents exhibiting the ‘same’ level of business confidence, as in January, remains roughly the same at 40.5 per cent, against 41.4 per cent last time. However, there has been a shift of seven per cent away from those with ‘higher’ levels of confidence to those who now have ‘lower’ confidence. Expectations of growth over the next six months have fallen. In January 44.8 per cent of respondents expected higher growth; now only 29.7 per cent agree, while those forecasting lower growth have jumped from 17.2 to 37.8 per cent. Expectation of demand has fallen away since January and now the majority (54.1 per cent) expect it to be flat. On balance respondents expect employee numbers in their businesses to stay the same, although the number feeling this way has fallen slightly. On the pay front the number of businesses expecting not to increase pay has dropped, and the majority (64.9 per cent) expect pay rises in the next six months to be between 0-2 per cent. One of the most noticeable changes in outlook is demonstrated by respondents’ plans to invest in their businesses. On the face of it, plans to invest over the next six months have taken a severe downturn. In January 55 per cent thought they would maintain current levels of investment. Now 38 per cent think they will invest less. Those planning to invest more remain roughly similar, and this is probably due to re-fits and improvement programmes that are already in the pipeline. The jury is still out on the chances of improving margins through price rises. The prospects for increasing retail prices seem about as evenly balanced as they did in January, with 51 per cent expecting to increase prices, against 48 per cent who believe this to be less likely. In the wake of the budget we asked a supplementary ‘free text’ question, this time about implementing the VAT increase in January 2011. While roughly 14 per cent said they would take it on the chin and increase VAT to 20 per cent immediately, there were various shades of opinion about absorbing or phasing in the increase; one respondent pointing out that the cost of staff time and consumables involved in re-labelling stock items would be over £1,000. Clearly the effect on business may not just be depressed demand.

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“It is essential to start planning early; it would be foolish to go into the highest profit-andfootfall time of year without having a secure strategy.”

hristmas is coming! Yes, just 82 days to go – as we go to press – and here at Jeweller

Towers we’re decked out with tinsel and fairy lights, metaphorically-speaking at least.

Of course all good retailers will have been thinking about this most important of selling seasons for months now, but in this issue we ramp up the festive fever a notch or two with some last minute hints, tips and gift suggestions. Such as diamonds maybe? This month we highlight the trends and developments in the world of the ‘gem carbonaceous’ – including my particular objects of lust, fancy colour

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diamonds (well, a girl can dream). Another feature focusses on six renowned figures in the diamond trade who give very personal views of the industry from their unique perspectives – fascinating and insightful stuff. And lest we forget that there still exists – despite all efforts – a less than pure and glamorous side to the story of diamonds, ethical jeweller Greg Valerio offers an update and his opinions on the latest Kimberley Process/Zimbabwe diamonds situation. Meanwhile, bathing in the fast-fading residual glow of trade fairs like IJL and the Autumn Show, there must now be a mass girding of loins for the new season. Is the economy ‘steaming ahead’ as trumpeted by certain tabloids? Well, sweeping benefit cuts, falling

“The internet – a great resource when used judiciously – can have both a positive and negative effect on consumer knowledge of diamonds.”

disposable income and other austerity measures notwithstanding, my thoughts are: “Yay – we’re on the mend!” I may be living in La-La Land, but I like to think you can talk things up as well as down and so, if we believe that things are going to get better… then they will. Mr Bean’s bidding for us to spend rather than save sounds good to me. I hope that your customers are coming to the same conclusion. Right, just off shopping!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

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The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

High street sales grow for third month running

Responsible Jewellery Council announces first certified member he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that the French jewellery manufacturer, Gay Frères, is the first member to be certified against the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC’s Member Certification System. The certification results from a successful verification assessment conducted by STR, an international audit firm – the RJC’s first accredited auditor. “This important milestone builds on five years of sustained effort by the RJC’s members to create the independent third party RJC Member Certification System applicable from mine to retail,” says Matt Runci, RJC’s chairman. “I am pleased to report that other RJC Members are currently scheduling their verification assessments with the auditing firms that have been accredited by the RJC, such that Gay Frères will be joined by more Certified Members in coming months.” Founded in 1835, Gay Frères is wellknown as a manufacturer and supplier of major European jewellery brands, employing 300 people and producing 1000 jewellery pieces on a daily basis. “We are most proud to be the first RJC member to achieve this important certification and we encourage others within the industry to follow suit so that they too can evidence responsible business practices,” says director Claude Schlappi. “Many members have commenced the process towards certification and we look forward to announcing their achievements over the coming months,” adds Runci. The RJC’s membership now totals 250 and new commercial members have two years from date of application to achieve the mandatory RJC certification, which begins with an internal self-assessment, prior to an external audit.

ales on the high street were higher than a year ago in September, representing the third consecutive year-on-year increase and surpassing expectations, according to the latest CBI quarterly Distributive Trades Survey. Retailers expect another strong rise in sales next month. Sixty per cent of retailers surveyed said that the volume of sales rose during September, while 11 per cent said that it fell, giving a balance of +49 per cent. This was the highest balance since May 2004, and compares with an expected figure of +39 per cent last month. Sales volumes were also above average for the time of the year for the first time since June 2007. This increase was also reflected in the volume of orders placed upon suppliers, which rose strongly again on a year ago. Ian McCafferty, CBI Chief Economic Advisor, said: “High street sales have performed well again this month, with growth better than retailers predicted. The bank holiday weekend, combined with the tail-end of summer sales have resulted in a bumper period. Retailers expect sales growth to continue next month and, as we get closer to January, sales will be helped by households seeking to beat the VAT rise. However, weak prospects for take-home pay mean that consumer spending is likely to be fairly restrained in 2011.” Commenting on the result Michael Hoare, CEO of the NAG says: “Our research with members of the Executive Development Forum shows that they have experienced year-onyear growth of about 10% to the end of August. The last quarter will provide the acid test, with government spending cuts in the pipeline and uncertainty on the jobs front, these figures could be hard to maintain. Having said that, our business confidence survey, conducted in September, shows that jewellers are approaching the Christmas period in good heart.” Photo: Steve Harris

Acknowledgment for Braille jewellery graduate who is hoping to help blind and visually impaired people by fashioning distinctive jewellery embossed with Braille, has won a £2,000 second prize in an entrepreneurial competition. Jessica Flinn, writes the colour of her South Korean-influenced designs in Braille in a bid to help blind and visually impaired customers match the jewellery to their wardrobes. Jessica, a Sheffield Hallam metalwork and jewellery graduate, joined six other businesses at the University’s Enterprise Challenge awards dinner on 30th September, to compete for the £5,000 cash prize.

8 The Jeweller October 2010

‘Pensée’ ring by Gay Frères

Industry News |

Be CR savvy for commercial success says CIBJO report “

esponsible Luxury”, a new report launched today by CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, highlights that the luxury industry needs to satisfy consumers’ deeper social conscience to secure commercial success for the future. It argues that the global recession has forced luxury consumers to rethink the way they live and subsequently their values and beliefs are increasingly being reflected in purchasing decisions. They now demand that Corporate Responsibility is embedded in luxury business operations. According to report author Jonathan Kendall, president of CIBJO’s Marketing and Education Commission, the search for greater efficiency in businesses could result in CR initiatives being considered ‘non-essential’ elements to axe. His report argues that this is short-sighted because conscientious business practice is no longer simply an add-on and will ensure customer loyalty in the future. This is due to a deceleration in consumption during the recession, which has given people a chance to reflect on their inherent values and beliefs and expect more from a purchase than the product alone. According to a TIME Magazine poll in 2009, for instance, nearly 40 per cent of Americans purchased a product because they liked the social or political values of the company that produced it. The ‘Responsible Luxury’ report argues that as we go from recession to recovery, the aspirational luxury industry has the opportunity to lead on CR in the same way that it sets new trends. Savvy luxury brands will increasingly engage customers on a deeper level by ensuring excellence in product design, accessible supply chain information, and a celebration of craftsmanship as well as their ethical, social and environmental behaviour. This, in turn, will be closely linked to a company’s profits.

S N I P P E T S Forthcoming Gem-A events Gemmology and the Gem Market is the subject of the Gem-A Conference to be held on Sunday 7th November 2010 at the Hilton London Kensington. The programme will cover the latest treated, synthetic and simulated gems; gemstones from their origins to the present day; pricing structures and photomicrographic techniques. For details and tickets for the day-long event followed by dinner visit www.gem-a.com On Monday 8th November John Benjamin, jewellery consultant and ex-international director of jewellery at Phillips Fine Art Auctioneers, will give a seminar offering a thousand year tour of international jewellery design – From Medieval to Modernism. Love me, love my dog A trinket chain with dog tag detail, produced by jewellery designer Claudia Bradby for the charity Canine Partners, will be available to order from this autumn. The necklace created for the ‘Dogs, Rocks and Frocks’ event earlier in the year was such a success that Bradby decided to include it in her main collection, with 20 per cent of the £95 RRP going to the charity.

Chaos – now more than just theory JL last month provided the platform to launch Chaos, a new collection of silver and gold jewellery, using certified ethical and recycled precious metal. Two years in the making, Chaos combines the experience and expertise of three jewellery trade individuals – Dennis Allen, who has long experience of running jewellery companies; Jonathan Lambert who has his own fine jewellery store; and creative director Yasmine Moss. The idea for the new brand was sparked by Allen's attendance at an IJL Great Debate and after listening to a further seminar on recycling, he had “a eureka moment”. The World Gold Council calculates that about 25 per cent of gold used for jewellery each year is recycled – but mixed with newly mined gold. The same happens with silver. The trick, Allen realised, would be to keep reused gold and silver separate from new metals. He found a bullion company in America that took the enlightened decision not to buy any new gold and silver and to supply the certified recycled metals exclusively to Chaos. The first collection comprises thin strands of silver and gold in random layers (providing the inspiration for the brand’s name). All the collections incorporate silver with touches of gold and included in the line are pendants, earrings, bangles,rings and bracelets.

Bulova celebrates Accutron anniversary To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the launch of Accutron Spaceview 214, Bulova has launched a limited edition hand-crafted replica of the original in the UK. When it debuted on 25th October 1960, the revolutionary timepiece was the world’s first electronic watch without springs or an escapement; it was operated by an electronic tuning fork and instead of ticking it hummed.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

IJL 2010 success espite the obligatory tube strike (no trade show should be without one) organisers, exhibitors and visitors alike have reported positively on IJL 2010, with some companies booking space already for the 2011 event. And despite the odd glitch (such as the Bermuda Triangle that was Aisle D) the general response from those at the event was that the look and the feel of the show was spot-on. Pre-audited figures put the number of visitors to the show at 9,000 – close to last year's record-breaking total. “Many exhibitors have booked for next year as a result of the success of this year’s show, and we are already looking ahead so we can continue to develop and launch new features,” says event manager Sam Willoughby. Included among those who have re-booked are Domino, Gecko, Kit Heath, Shaun Leane, Fei Liu and Trollbeads. With the most comprehensive free-to-attend seminar programme of any jewellery trade show in the UK, the seminars at IJL were extremely popular again this year, and even more than ever to try and fit in – 48 in total! There was standing-room only at Stephen Webster’s characteristically irreverent talk on men’s jewellery, which took place at the Boulevard Bar. The Great Debate attracted crowds of industry figures keen to discuss ethical issues and how the jewellery trade can work together to bring about change and new commercial initiatives. The NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare, explained why he thinks the Great Debate, and the IJL show itself, are valuable for the trade: “Importantly, each year IJL tackles some of the key issues in the industry and the Great Debate is always fantastically interesting. IJL is a great place to find out about new trends and I think it is imperative that people come to it to keep up to date with what’s going on in the jewellery industry.”

Swarovski opens flagship store biquitous Austrian crystal brand Swarovski has ramped up its UK presence (55 stores, 32 concessions, 16 Premium Partner Boutiques… and counting) with the opening of its flagship store at 321 Oxford Street last month. It is one of seven existing stores (more openings are planned) that demonstrates the company’s new ‘Crystal Forest’ retail design concept, which highlights the creative possibilities of crystal and the brand's affinity with nature. The shop's facade incoroprates a myriad of stainless steel prisms, whose unfolding metal facets take on the lights and reflections from the street. Inside, the walls are textured with reflective white prisms, the faceted and multi-layered elements creating visual depth, while a modern lighting installation resembles a wave and is made from thousands of crystals hanging from the ceiling.

Jewellery link with museum collection nspired by objects in the University of Nottingham Museum, young jewellery designer Lina Peterson has created several pieces of imaginative pieces of contemporary jewellery, which will be on display at the Museum until 17th December. The work is part of a national project involving sixteen museums and each item took as its starting point an archaeological artefact, from the Palaeolithic age to the post Medieval period, excavated in the East Midlands. They reflect the everyday lives of people living in the area.

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S N I P P E T S Gold jeweller launches cash-loan service Midland’s-based jeweller Rex Johnson Online, which has been short-listed for a national pawnbroking award, has launched Rexchanges, a pawnbroking service to provide short-term cash loans of £10 to £100,000 against gold jewellery in a ‘quick, secure and hassle-free way.’ Customers can receive an expert valuation to receive a loan for a six-month period. “Unlike going to a bank for a loan, customers can get their cash quickly and easily without credit checks, set-up fees or redemption penalties,” says co-director David Johnson, who opened his first store in Coventry last year. Citizen to advertise on TV Citizen Watch UK is to advertise on television for the first time ever. Following several years of successful print campaigns, the company has decided to change its strategy this autumn/winter in order to make “a big splash this winter”. Starting on 10th November and running until 22nd December, the five ads, for the five different watches, will be themed around Citizen’s two sporting brand ambassadors: Padraig Harrington and Kim Clijsters Vivienne Westwood to launch watch range Zeon Ltd has signed a worldwide licensing agreement with iconic British fashion brand Vivienne Westwood to design, market and distribute a collection of watches under the Vivienne Westwood name. The first collection will be launched at Basel in march 2011. The line will consist of ladies’ and men’s watches to retail between £100 - £500. Edox sponsors World Rally Championships Swiss watch brand Edox continues its participation in lifestyle sports in November with its sponsorship of the World Rally Championships, the British stage of which will be held in Cardiff in November. Already the official timekeeping sponsor for the Class-1 World Offshore Power Boat Championships, Edox also sponsored this year’s British Powerboat Festival at Cowes in August.

Seven million reasons to use T.H. March’s Customer Insurance Solutions

As well as looking after the business insurance needs of our clients in the trade, many of our jewellers also introduce their own customers to us. This has resulted in T.H. March paying over £7 million to jewellers in commission, replacement jewellery and jewellery repairs over the last four years. Two thousand retail jewellers earn commission on any introductions to us as well as beneﬁtting from replacement jewellery sales and repairs following a claim. This keeps customers coming back and spending in their shops, increasing both turnover and customer loyalty. In today’s tough markets, you know how important this is.

To ﬁnd out how you can beneﬁt, call any of our six branches nationwide, or John Watson on 01822 855555. You can also visit Your Customer’s Insurance at

www.thmarch.co.uk MIS/7MV1/15.07.10

| Industry News

Andrew Geoghegan donates diamond ewellery designer Andrew Geoghegan has donated a diamond to help RHS Garden Harlow Carr, Harrogate celebrate its diamond anniversary. Home to some of the North’s most dazzling horticultural treasures, RHS Garden Harlow Carr is giving its November visitors a chance to find a £2,500 gem in its 60th anniversary Diamond Quest and Geoghegan has stepped in to provide the prize. Says Andrew Geoghegan, “We are really pleased to donate the prize. The diamond is a stunning ½ carat brilliant cut with a GIA certificate. The colour of the stone is G and the clarity is VS2 – a truly beautiful stone.” The Harrogate garden will give participants the chance to win the diamond by following clues positioned around the grounds. The person who marks the correct grid reference will take away the diamond!

Revolutionary watch launches esigned in Italy and made in Switzerland, the new Contagiri by Giuliano Mazzuoli has been four years in development, production planning, prototyping and patenting… and now launches in the UK through Argento Fine Products. The revolutionary timepiece features a hand that retrogrades after moving across an arc of 270º while pointing to numbers between 0 and 12 indicating the hour. On the side of the case is a stow-away lever that acts as a sort of gear shift to allow for the winding of the automatic movement and the setting of the time. One version of the Contagiri is in stainless steel and diamond-like carbon with a black rubber strap. The more precious version is in 19 carat rose gold and titanium.

Gothic glamour from Trollbeads ust in time for Halloween, Trollbeads’ Danish designer Soren Nielsen has introduced this limited edition (just 25 available throughout the UK and Ireland) Skeleton necklace. This highly unusual piece features a complete and intricate sterling silver skeleton with 18 carat gold decoration around its throat. The body is 14.5 cm long and is completely disjointed so that it dangles eccentrically around the neck. Trollbeads fans can mix other Trollbeads in amongst the Skeleton’s silver bones to create a truly individual bespoke look. Retailing at £995 the piece comes in its own special black box and is sold as a complete necklace, with 50cm sterling silver chain and plain lock.

BHI Counter Service course n collaboration with Cousins Materials, the British Horological Institute, and Epping Forest Horology Club, Horology Consulting is running a two-day training course to give retail staff the practical skills needed to be able to offer immediate customer service. Contact tutor Peter Tales on 07596 547686 for details of the course which runs on the 27th and 28th October.

12 The Jeweller October 2010

S N I P P E T S Assay Office ‘Fakes’ seminar The Assay Office London has announced that its Silver Fakes and Forgeries seminar will be held at Goldsmiths' Hall on Monday 22nd November. The keynote speaker will be Alastair Dickenson. leading antique silver dealer and advisor to the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow. During the seminar delegates will study the case of forger Peter AshleyRussell (sentenced in 2008) and will have the chance to examine and discuss some of his forgeries. Places are limited and by reservation only. Call 020 7606 8971 for further details. Birmingham gifts replica cross to the Pope Birmingham City Council commissioned silversmith Shona Marsh to create a replica of the ‘crumpled cross’ found among the Staffordshire Hoard, which was then presented to Pope Benedict during his visit to the city last month. Mark Watkins, a technologist from the Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre at Birmingham City University School of Jewellery unfolded the cross on screen using an artist’s impression. His images were made into patterns from which the gold-plated cross, hallmarked with the famous anchor town mark and set with garnets, was made. Jersey Pearl boosts its ethical credentials British jewellery brand Jersey Pearl, currently the only CarbonNeutral® brand in the world, has furthered its ethical credentials by giving financial backing to the Langwantan Hydro Power project which provides clean energy to the province of Guizhon, China. Jersey Pearl offsets its carbon footprint by funding such vital projects as this, which supplys electricity to the entire southern Chinese power grid. Taking regular trips to pearl farms, the company maintains strong relationships with the families that cultivate the pearls.

| NAG News

Spare the tears and prepare early for Christmas this year! he NAG’s stand at this year’s IJL, might well have seemed a little surreal with its Christmas theme. However, you would be mistaken to feel it’s too early to think about mince pies and garish hand-knitted jumpers, as the NAG has officially launched its ‘Christmas Is Too Late’ campaign. The launch was celebrated with the first Christmas tree of the year and an aptly festive raffle (pictured). It’s no myth that most retailers, in any sector, experience the majority of their business over the Christmas and New Year period. Yet how many of them consider the impact of the Christmas rush and whether

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their staff have the skills to handle it? Perhaps some retailers worry that their lack of knowledge in certain areas could lose their company potentially significant sales? The NAG’s Christmas campaign focuses on encouraging both business leaders and staff to consider seriously their skills provisions leading up to the Christmas period. We’re simply saying: be prepared. Think about staff training. Don’t leave it too late! As sales steadily increase, and shop-floor footfall grows, it is important to ensure that every sales opportunity is maximised. And there’s no better time to plan ahead than

the present. In just three months a member of staff can complete the JET 1 program. Studying runs alongside day-to-day work, so the knowledge can be instantly applied to the job. Those who have enrolled this September could complete in December, ready for Christmas and the New Year. Enrol for the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma now and get all the practical skills a retailer needs, including selling, hallmarking and much more. Contact the NAG Education Department by web: www.jewellers-online.org or by calling 020 7613 4445 extension 1.

A R Wo odward

Christopher George

ewellers J s le t t i h W

Beverley Hills

Peter Jenner

owell Charles H Woods Jewelle rs Jamieson & Carry 14 The Jeweller October 2010

Marmalade

NAG News |

JET 1 project award winner announced he NAG and Bransom have announced the recipient of August’s Bransom JET 1 Project Award. Anna Coppock of Payne & Son, Oxford will receive a certificate and be invited to the NAG’s prestigious Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall. “I’m a bit shocked to have received the award, but very proud,” says Coppock. “It’s so nice to be rewarded for something you’re doing well, and something you feel passionately about. The course helped me towards being more confident in my everyday role, and helped me gain a real grasp on an industry I’m excited to be a part of.” All JET 1 final assignments are automatically entered for the prize and this month’s winner was nominated by tutor Mary Garland. “I’m very happy that Anna has received this award,” she says. “All her assignments have been completed on or before the due dates to a very high standard – she has obviously worked very hard.” The moderator commented: “The project was of such an excellent standard because Anna had taken time to research her answer beyond the JET 1 module content. All illustrations were hand drawn and the detail accurate in every detail.” The final section of the Project was answered with a current retail approach to the situation and it was obvious this candidate had a sound knowledge of the service department and the variety of options that could be offered to a customer in these circumstances.” Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and will then be entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. For more information on the JET courses, go to www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom go to www.bransom.co.uk

New Member Applications To ensure that NAG members are aware of new membership applications within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Harshita Deolia on 020 7613 4445 or email: harshita@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications T W Willcox (Kenneth and Michelle Simpson) Alnwick D Cooley Jewellers (Daniel Cooley/Brenda Kearney) Northern Ireland Mococo (Maureen Hooson) Northop, Flintshire Bryants (Simon and Michelle Bryant) Clevedon Nath Jewellers (Baij and Anoop Nath) Wolverhampton Precious Metals Craft & Design Workshop (Sarah Kate and Gerrard Collins) Brierfield Exclusive Jewellery (Samuel Jonathan and Anna Marie New) Kemps of Bridgwater (Christine Elizabeth Hay) N & P Art Jewellery (Natalia Tomasovicova) Horsham Toulson Jones Jewellers (Paul Toulson/ R E W Jones) Kent Sarah Layton (Leanne, Lauren and David Holmes/ Gillian and Nigel Layton-Hill) Whalley Kairos Jewellery (Carol, Alison and Timothy Cheetham) Brampton

Make sure your customers know you’re a NAG member!

Affiliate Applications

s part of a promotional offer the NAG is to send out 100 Choosing your Jeweller leaflets – free to all members who request them. All we ask is that members cover the cost of postage and packaging. To receive your leaflets, please contact Amanda White on 020 7613 4445 or amandaw@jewellers-online.org

Indulgence (Nicholas John Isherwood) West Sussex

Discount Jewellery Centre (Francis Loughran) Bolton

Alumni Applications Yvonne McCormack, Ireland Amanda Jane Attwood, Offenham, Worcestershire

Payne & Son Ltd celebrate 100 years of NAG membership n Tuesday 17th August at the NAG Board Meeting held in the NAG offices at Luke Street, Michael Payne presented to the Board a solid silver steeple cup on behalf of Payne & Son, to commemorate 100 years of membership with the National Association of Goldsmiths. Michael Payne was elected onto the Board in June 2005 and quickly went on to become the Association's trusted Treasurer – a post that he still holds today. His contributions and commitments to the NAG have been priceless and both the Board and the Chief Executive were very grateful and honoured to accept the gift.

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on (029) 2081 3615.

New Member Applicants Elaine M McAllister PJDip PJGemDip PJValDip MA BA, Basingstoke.

Upgrading from Member to Fellow Nick Bailey MIRV, Prenton, Wirral Lesley Sinclair MIRV FGA DGA BA HRD, Bothwell, Glasgow A Ewen Taylor MIRV PJDip FGA DGA, Edinburgh

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

Member of the Month In this Member of the Month, Harshita Deolia talks to Anna Gatward, who is co-owner, with her sister Lisa, of W B Gatward & Son Ltd in Hitchin, one of the oldest jewellery businesses in the country. Now celebrating its 250th anniversary, the retailer has welcomed millions of customers over the years, many of whom have been different generations of the same family. to come up with a design using the ironwork as a base. They created a double-sided seat featuring watch wheels as the back, within a chapter ring showing the seven generations. The seat was duly presented on May Day and sits next to the clock which we presented to Hitchin to mark the Millennium. In November, a diamond party will be held at Brocket Hall. Our finale will be a black tie charity event for 300 at St. Mary’s Church in Hitchin, with a gourmet dinner, opera excerpts and my niece playing the harp. Old prints showing Gatwards as it was and photographs of the shop interior and exterior today

Tell us something about the business Gatwards was founded by James Gatward in 1760, so this is a big year for us as we are 250 years old. Originally the business was a watch and clockmakers, and my grandfather, Bradly Gatward, was the last member of the family who actually made clocks. My personal leaning is towards fine jewellery, but we still sell watches such as Omega, Ebel, Longines etc. What we really enjoy is finding that special piece for a customer – making sure that they leave with something that is really right for them. Customer satisfaction is very important to us and if we haven’t got exactly what someone wants, we will find it or have it made. We are now in our seventh generation and we often

16 The Jeweller October 2010

welcome customers that are second or even third generations of the same family. During World War II, we still had extensive workshops and to help with the war effort, the machinery was put to good use by making instrument parts for the aircraft industry. You have a lot of events going on this year to mark the special anniversary… As you can imagine it’s been a very busy year. I’ve written a book about the business and its history, and we have produced our own hallmark for special pieces to mark the anniversary. Throughout the year we have had particular promotions linked to competitions featuring different companies. At the moment we have one in conjunction with Euro Pearls – customers have to guess the number of loose pearls in a champagne glass and the winner receives a necklet. In the late 1800s John Gatward had two sons. One followed him into the jewellery business, the other set up as an ironmonger. We were contemplating giving a seat to the town to mark our anniversary when Hitchin Historical Society gave us two triangular pieces of iron with ‘Gatward Hitchin’ on them. We commissioned Arcangel, who created the Princess Diana Memorial in Kensington Palace,

What do you think James Gatward would say if he knew that the business had been going for so very many years? Haha! Well unfortunately I never met him! He’d probably be very proud that the small business he started all those years ago is still going strong. There can’t be many companies that have been going for 250 years through seven generations of the same family and I hope we can continue onwards and upwards. I feel it is important to maintain the integrity of the business and to carry on the tradition of personal service for which we are well known. Finally, could you share a story with our readers about memorable customers? My co-director, Jim Hunter, recalls one particularly priceless incident. A customer’s lover bought her a diamond ring. She subsequently returned it, requested a refund and asked for it to be returned to the window as her husband would come in later to buy it for her. Which is what he did, so she wound up with a ring she could wear all the time… and the cash. Nice one! If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, write and tell us why! Simply send an email to: harshita@jewellers-online.org

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| BJA News

BJA membership rises at buoyant IJL ven though times are hard, the optimism speaking to BJA members about their experiences at IJL 2010 was noticeable. The show certainly had a buzz and a bustle that Mike Hughes, we haven’t seen for a chairman of the BJA while and the feedback received from all areas of the trade has been extremely positive. I am delighted to say that it was also a good show for the BJA with a flurry of businesses, from all areas of the supply chain, joining us during the event. For our new chief executive, Simon Rainer, who took up his post just prior to IJL, it was something of a baptism by fire, although it provided him,

and indeed me, with the opportunity to meet the trade. By now some of you will have had the opportunity to give us further feedback in a telephone survey of members, but if you have something to add then both Simon and I would be happy to take your call. This is your Association and we want to make it work for you. Your feedback on the BJA and the services it provides is invaluable to Simon in taking the organisation forward, so do please keep your comments coming in.

Excellent kick-off for KickStarters ickstart, an area for promising and on-trend designer makers, provided a fertile seedbed for the ten companies that participated. The stand, which was sponsored by IJL and coordinated by the BJA was specifically created for those businesses that had not previously exhibited at the show. “This was a showcase for many of next season's ‘hot’ new looks, as identified in the trend forecasts at the fair, and indeed three participants gained a place in Professional Jewellers ‘Hot 100’ list. The stand certainly aroused considerable interest among buyers and all those taking part took orders, including some from overseas,” says the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton. A selection of jewellery from the KickStarters will be for sale to the public through Platform in Hatton Garden from 10th October, 2010.

18 The Jeweller October 2010

BJA Award at The Jewellery Show 2011 – Celebrating the Cuff on the Catwalk he cuff is currently the must-have piece of jewellery for women of all ages, so it is appropriate that the BJA’s long-established competition for design and production excellence, should celebrate it in all its guises. This year’s Award, generously sponsored by The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International Birmingham, is now open for entries with entry forms downloadable from the BJA website: www.bja.org.uk/award “We will be making a number of awards in two separate categories – precious cuffs and fashion cuffs,” explains Lindsey Straughton from the BJA. “But what we are looking for in both cases are bold and eye-catching pieces that really make a statement, as the winning designs will be widely featured on the Pandora-sponsored catwalk at The Jewellery Show.” As well as providing the winners with a tremendous PR opportunity, this competition also offers the winning businesses in each category a free feature page in The Jeweller and excellent trade press and internet coverage. The closing date for entries is Monday, 29th November, 2010.

BJA News |

Extra police for Jewellery Quarter hanks to the on-going efforts of the British Jewellers’ Association, the West Midlands Police force is to provide additional beat officers for Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter during the pre-Christmas period. The new policing regime has already begun and will continue until the New Year. Though this year to date the number of reported criminal incidents taking place in the Jewellery Quarter are comparable to last year figures, the BJA is aware of a rising number of membership alerts regarding personal safety and security. The Association therefore has been working closely with local member businesses, representatives of specialist insurance brokers and other interested parties in the area to insure that the police are aware of concerns.

“Both our chairman, Mike Hughes, and I are passionate about helping all the jewellery businesses locally to be safe, so we were absolutely delighted to hear about this increase in policing. We understand that the officers will be especially visible during those times when businesses are particularly vulnerable, such as opening and closing hours and peak posting times,” says BJA CEO, Simon Rainer. Discussions with the police continue and a further meeting is to be held shortly to discuss further ways in which safety in the area can be improved. “The BJA is all too aware of the need for more joined-up national thinking with regard to jewellery related crime and feel the excellent relationship we have created

Our diamond expert BJA National Committee member, Nick Kasler, has worked with diamonds for over thirty years. His expertise has been invaluable to the Association in helping its members to get to grips with various recent challenges. hen it comes to sales of diamond jewellery, London manufacturer Alfred Terry is never very far from the top of the UK retailers’ ‘best sellers’ list, regularly claiming either the number one or number two slot in Retail Jeweller magazine’s monthly ‘Barometer’ of top-performing brands. Alfred Terry buys and sells a great many diamonds and the man behind those stones is one of its directors – Nick Kasler. Kasler, who has been on the BJA’s National Committee for a number of years (and was set to become chairman in 2002, before the pressure of work forced him to decline), describes himself as ‘something of an old hand’ and says that he greatly enjoys the opportunity the BJA provides to ‘put something back’ into an industry that he loves. “When I first joined the National Committee it was rather an old boys’ network,” he says. “So one of my first concerns was to try and get a more pro-active group of

representatives together; to get some younger people and more women on board, as well as to try and create a broader church with craftsmen and silverware producers being invited to join. If you look at the breakdown of the committee today under the leadership of Mike Hughes, I think you’ll see we have definitely succeeded in this respect,” he adds Kasler was a key advisor to the BJA when the Kimberley Process was first mooted and was instrumental in helping the Association to devise appropriate certification, in compliance with the United Nations dictate, for use by members when buying and selling diamonds. Indeed, Alfred Terry was among the first UK companies to comply with Kimberley in this respect. For Kasler a key concern at present however is not diamonds, but safety, and he is passionate about using the combined weight of The BJA membership to try and

with West Midlands Police and their cooperation in this matter is an excellent starting point for further progress,” says Rainer.

get more joined-up thinking with regard to security issues. “Retail jewellers need to be more open minded about this whole subject. Reps walking into shops are so vulnerable. Most jewellers have a back entrance, or a service area and it would be so much better if they could organise for salespeople to enter their premises in that way, rather than coming into the open shop,” he says. He also believes there should be more sharing of information. “Forewarned is forearmed, but unfortunately the various police forces are not linked up and don’t share information, so if there have been a spate of car park thefts in Birmingham no-one knows until there is a similar spate in Manchester. “I believe the BJA has a major role to play here and we are working towards getting a team of people from across the industry round a table together with insurance brokers and police officers from around the country to transfer knowledge and really draw together information about past attacks and any patterns, so that we can share any information that may emerge.” For more information about the BJA and the services it provides to its members contact Lindsey Straughton on tel: 0121 237 1110, email her at: lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk or visit: www.bja.org.uk

The Voice of the Industry 19

Christmas party at Leblas

Tis the season Tom Allen looks at what separates the great from the good in the busiest trading period of the year. ast year the jewellery industry was cautiously optimistic in the run-up to Christmas. Having survived the worst of the recession, most businesses were out to recoup their losses during the busiest trading period of the year, kicking themselves into overdrive with revamped window displays, in-store events, and new brands. All the indicators point to a slow but steady Christmas in 2010, which may be heralded as a relief after the drama of the last two years. The footfall and spending may still be a way off 2007, but a steady climb is expected according to the experts at the Reuters Consumer and Retail Summit, which took place in London this June. As anyone who has worked in the industry during the October-January period could testify though, Christmas is never boring. Which is why it is recommended to begin setting out a strategy as soon as possible. According to Michael Hoare, CEO of the NAG: “It is essential to start planning early; it would be foolish to go into the highest profit-and-footfall time of year without having a secure strategy.” This requires a delicate balancing act between fine-tuning your overall plan and ensuring that you are flexible

20 The Jeweller October 2010

enough to react rapidly to sudden swings in consumer demand and behaviour, especially during the economic turbulence of the last two years. Many stores aren’t just planning ahead of time – they are beginning their Christmas marketing as early as possible in order to

Many stores are beginning their Christmas marketing as early as possible to take advantage of consumers spreading their spending take advantage of consumers spreading their spending, which many are liable to do this year in order to avoid the 2.5 per cent VAT price hike in January. Department store Selfridges, which stocks brands including Georg Jensen and Links of London, began promoting its Christmas ranges in August! While this might be a little premature, it is nevertheless wise to advertise your strengths well in advance so that your customers can pick a piece safe in the knowledge that you will gift wrap, deliver, or insure it.

London designer jewellery store Kabiri agrees with this, recommending advertising added value services around Christmas when there are greater numbers of shoppers in-store to see them. Gift wrapping is a good example; as well as saving time for your customers, a professionally gift wrapped piece of jewellery is a beautiful and admired present. James Boyd of jewellery brand Daisy, having launched four new ranges at IJL, hopes to pick up on this trend with a new range of packaging: “I wanted to make sure that, with Daisy becoming a brand in its own right, when it is given it really feels like something special. A lot of time and effort’s gone into the design of the bags, from the way the handles are attached to the way the satin ribbon is woven in…I want them to sit under the Christmas tree in the same way that [beauty brand] Jo Malone’s do.”

Christmas packaging by Daisy Jewellery

Christmas Feature | Going the extra mile Although many retailers are beginning their Christmas campaigns in October this year, others may wish to wait until the scent of the season is truly in the air and they can aim their promotion and decorations at consumers who will be on the lookout for Christmas deals and offers. Courier facilities and special insurance deals are two festive gestures that can win brownie points. While most retailers will naturally enjoy a higher footfall at Christmas, the most successful are those that go out of their way to attract numbers of customers above and beyond expectations. Kabiri uses mailing lists to remind customers about special dates, while Victoria Herd of independent Glasgow retailer ROX advises a friendly atmosphere and excellent customer service. Both promote new styles and brands that are being stocked at Christmas, and Giddings Design’s distinctive new pyramid display cases can do just that. Featuring 9mm anti-bandit glass and high security locks, they have seen success as both standalone shop-centre cases and storefront window displays.

The rules of attraction “Dynamic window displays will encourage people to come into the store,” adds Herd. “Something that will draw the eye and attract potential customers from across the street – or even from other stores!” “The name of the game is difference,” says Mark Giddings. “A poorly decorated window that has had no thought go into it is an insult to your customers.” Although monochrome ruled Bond Street last year, this year Judy Head of design and marketing company Head Creative Associates has revealed that bright colours such as hot pink and orange promise to be in fashion. “This year, vivid colours reflect optimism and the big bold displays show that the retailers have got their confidence back,” she says. Themed displays, particularly those that tell a story or reflect the current trend for fantasy figures and animals, have also made a return. These recommendations for uniqueness apply to displays as well as colours. The old standby of dusting fake snow around and framing the window with a couple of artificial trees just won’t do on today’s high street, where customers expect and desire

Pyramid display cabinet by Giddings Design

difference. Collaborations with local art colleges can yield terrific results – a starting idea might be sleighs made of balsa wood suspended from the top of your windows, or sitting at the bottom with the jewellery draped over them. Mark Giddings has more suggestions for displays: “Use interesting, unique ideas. Buy some buckets and shovels from B&Q, paint them white and lean them in your windows to make it look like you’ve been clearing snow. You could even use cheap polystyrene snowmen, but you need to be different with them: paint them all in unusual colours and put them on small mirrors to make it look like they’re on a frozen lake.” So, how to follow up a distinctive window? A recommendation from the professionals, is to keep the window theme going – so colours chosen to fit with the premises; if your windows and store are mainly white, for instance, jewel colours to accent would be a good investment. Everything in moderation, though; a refined touch is far preferable to splashing stars around and hoping for the best. “Christmas decorations won’t scare anyone off, but they need to be tastefully done,” says Jonathan Lambert, owner of Jonathan Lambert Fine Jewellers. Thought and planning must be put into a display to avoid driving customers into your competitor’s open arms. After all, the jewellery trade, more than almost any other, thrives on perceptions: making sure your customers see your store as a quality business is half the battle, and so your decorations should be in keeping with how you want your business to be seen – too much tinsel runs the risk of lowering your Christmas footfall – along with the tone.

A Christmassy atmosphere (whether it be music, decorations, scent, special outfits for the staff) can help to make customers relaxed and more willing to listen to a sales pitch, so it is important to ensure that your store makes the most of the festive spirit. This might simply consist of replacing your normal muzak with Christmas carols but, as with other aspects of this busy trading period, difference pays off. You might try tempting customers in with Christmas treats – mince pies and mulled wine served on the door, or offered as your staff romance the jewellery, can have great effects on a customer’s willingness to listen. Additionally this will fill your store with the smells of Christmas, drawing in even more people off the cold street! Most companies throw Christmas parties for their staff as a way of saying, ‘Thank you’ for the year’s work and this is the perfect time for retailers, too, to thank customers for their business. Nina Tukaj of London fine jewellery boutique Leblas, says, “We like to celebrate and treat our customers with special shopping events because this allows us to get to know them better. We are also able to learn the needs and wants of our customers, which allows us to better serve them with the right products and services.” There is no ‘best way’ to throw a party, but often local external catering companies are used to supply the food and drink. Many companies, such as Leblas and Dower & Hall, take a hands-on approach to their in-store events, have their staff serving the refreshments. “We organise everything ourselves, from food and drink to music and goodie bags,” says Diane Hall. Giant bauble by DZD

Get in the mood Of course there are plenty of ways to celebrate Christmas in-store without going overboard with decorations – ways that will draw customers in and keep them there, while making them feel relaxed and comfortable.

The Voice of the Industry 21

| Christmas Feature “We always try to offer an extra hook for our guests, such as a first preview of a new collection, a great discount or bag full of treats – our pearl-themed goodie bag was a real hit earlier this year.” Tukaj recommends holding Christmas events when customers will be in full shopping mode; this way your store becomes somewhere they can come to escape the Christmas rush, and it is the perfect time to promote added value services. “We offer gift wrapping services, shipping services and other product knowledge services making gift buying easy and confident,” she says.

Feather wreath by DZD

Taking precautions With the increased footfall these strategies will bring, it is important to be on the lookout for any potential problems that might arise: staff fatigue and shop security are common risks, with many retailers asking their staff to do overtime as Christmas gets closer. Victoria Archer of Kabiri recommends welltimed breaks during quiet times to keep morale high, and temporary staff can also alleviate the pressure somewhat. With untrained short-term staff serving on the shop floor at the busiest time of year, however, the potential for security risks is higher than ever. “We invest heavily in staff training to ensure that our teams, including our temporary Christmas staff, are fully aware of all security procedures,” adds Herd. “We also have security cameras in each store.” Richard Slack of Clive Ranger, with shops in South Wales and the west of England says: “We recently had an insurance review

22 The Jeweller October 2010

from TH March who recommended a few modifications, so we’re just doing that – and as far as staff goes we don’t mob half the shop at Christmas.” Meanwhile Kabiri is operating a closed door system after the robbery in its Marylebone shop earlier this year. Retailers will approach security issues from various angles but, in short, have welltrained staff who are familiar with procedures in the case of an emergency.

Christmas on-line It won’t just be bricks and mortar stores enjoying all the attention, though; the Internet is an increasingly popular way to shop for gifts, especially around Christmas, according to the IMRG/Capgemini eRetail Sales Index. To take an example, web sales were up 59 per cent at www.rox.co.uk last year compared to 2008. With the massive increase in traffic you are likely to see online, your website should be given the seasonal treatment just like your store. Quick links to popular items on a homepage and special offers should be welldisplayed, and stock management is vital; with bad communication between a store and its website, it would be easy to run out of popular items without customers being aware. To avoid this ROX updates its website on a daily basis with new products and imagery. Also, having a selection of easily accessible FAQs, will save time for both customers and

Dower & Hall Christmas window

Although monochrome ruled Bond Street last year, this year bright colours appear to be in fashion… staff. Dower & Hall has recently launched a Facebook page to help customers with just these sorts of issues. There is a wide spread of strategies being used this Christmas – from pushing different metals to combat the high gold price, to stop-you-in-your tracks window displays – but the general tone of the trade is expectant hopefulness as the country climbs its way out of the recession. The VAT price rise in January may well lead to a higher Christmas spend than initially predicted, and it is vital to be aware of how to capitalise on I the footfall that this will bring.

Hot retail tips forChristmas • “Men hate gift wrapping, so make sure this service is offered at point of sale.” Victoria Archer, Kabiri • “People want to see the whole branded look – that really helps a consumer get closer to the brand. Savvy retailers are stocking brands that are well-publicised, well-known, well-displayed and well-packaged.” James Boyd, Daisy • “Be different. Vinyls and window graphics are both cheap and eye-catching – for instance, footprint-shaped vinyls placed horizontally across the window to give the appearance of footsteps in the snow will bring curious people to your windows.” Mark Giddings, Giddings Design • “Diamonds, customer events, and in-store advertising worked well for us last year.” Nina Tukaj, Leblas • “The most important brand in the store is the shop itself, so make sure that all the services and special events that are happening in the store are well displayed too.” Judy Head, Head Creative Associates • “Our 12 days of Christmas email and store window campaign was a great hit last year and great fun to put together. We are looking forward to creating a new buzz this year!” Diane Hall, Dower & Hall

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Jeweller

picks... for Christmas

While it’s true that almost any item of jewellery could be considered as having Christmas gift potential, there are some pieces that seem tailor-made for the purpose and have underthe-tree written all over them. Whether for him, for her or for picky pre-teens, the editor selects a few festive favourites.

FRED BENNETT

This leather cord necklace with black cubic zirconia stones and oxidized finish, comes from the Utility collection in the Fred Bennett men’s line by Gecko. The range plays on tactile surfaces, contrasting finishes and new materials, with a variety of on trend designs available. Tel: 020 7534 3221

~ For Men ~

AAGAARD

Nothing pretty and delicate about the linked jewellery in Aagaard’s Men’s collection: stainless steel, rubber, leather and lots of black and silver ensure a robust, masculine look for these pieces, which can be worn in the form of wristbands or neckwear. Tel: +45 63 213 717

ALLUMER

Presented in a little matchbox box with the words ‘light up my life’, Allumer jewellery for men and women make ideal gifts. In 9ct gold and featuring tiny diamonds as well as cut-out details and messages (xxx, LOL etc) the charms hang from chains to form necklaces or bracelets. Tel: 07889 059030 L

CW SELLORS

The Meteorite Collection now includes a new style of cufflink, which complements the current range of pendants and bracelets. Because of the nature of this Siberian sourced stone, each pair is unique and the central material has been lightened through a special etching technique. The limited edition range comes with certification guaranteeing authenticity. Tel: 01335 346561

HOT DIAMONDS

Uncompromisingly rugged, masculine, laidback – the new men’s collection of jewellery by Hot Diamonds would make an inexpensive gift for the guy whose wardrobe is a symphony of black and grey (with maybe a touch of white) and likes his T-shirts to make a statement. Tel: 0118 975 3331

~ For Women ~ L

SO JEWELLERY

There's something enduringly appealing about the key motif (‘Unlock my heart’ – cheesy but it works!) and therefore the range of key pendants by So ought to hit the mark at Christmas. In rhodium-plated sterling silver there are five different designs – some with more bling detail than others. Tel: 020 8892 7000

YVETTE RIES

Luxury German jewellery brand Yvette Ries, is now back in the UK (handled by sales agency Elitor), with a collection of clean, modern pieces combining a variety of materials from silver and leather to pearls and crystals and silver and jade. Tel: 01462 416 361

LONDON ROAD

CHAMBERS & BEAU

The new London Road jewellery collection pays homage to the buzz and diversity of the capital – like these bold, domed pavé Bloomsbury Ball rings in blue topaz, tsavarite, garnets and amethysts. The Kew collection of pendants and rings is, by way of a contrast, a quieter affair with its delicate flower and leaf shapes in diamond and pearl embellished gold. Tel: 0844 871 454

‘We are Family’ is the new Christmas collection launched by personalised jewellery label Chambers & Beau. Made in sterling silver and accented with gold and diamonds, the line includes charm necklaces, bracelets, cufflinks, shirt collar stiffners and key rings. Each piece can be hand-stamped with names, dates or messages and gemstone colours can also be chosen. Tel: 07979 800 441

JULIE SANDLAU ACCURIST

‘Precious’ is one of five new sweet and sparkly charm watches created by Accurist. With a sterling silver bracelet with a mother-of-pearl dial, it makes an ideal evening accessory, as does 'sunflower' which features Swarovski crystals set into a two-tone watch. The beads are sold separately. www.accurist.co.uk

These earrings by Danish model-turned jewellery designer Julie Sandlau are so party perfect that they might have to be given before Christmas. In gold-plated silver with zirconia they’re from a collection of slightly retro inspired earrings on a hoopwith-a-difference theme. www.dmj.info

~ For Children ~

KLESHNA

Known for working with bright colours – whether it be Swarovski crystals, beads or elastic, British designer Kleshna Handel specialises in fun and vibrant jewellery that lends itself perfectly to gift-giving. From the affordable and collectable friendship bracelets with crystal charms to the bold Heart2Heart crystal necklaces on sterling silver, there’s something for all girlie tastes. Tel: 020 8401 6789

MOLLY BROWN

NOMINATION

The renowned composable bracelet by Nomination is available in a festive version – perfect for the difficult-to-please tween market, whether they're into glitz or the cute lifestyle motifs. With around 3,000 links to choose from there's got to be something to please the little darlings… Tel: 020 7225 3915

While the friendship bracelets in the new collections obviously have a hip, festival-chic attitude, the classic locket still has a place in any girl’s jewellery box says Molly Bown. New to the collection is the Lulu Locket, with its tiny star detail, which comes in small or large sizes, for girls of all ages. Tel: 0844 335 3923

KIT HEATH

The new Kids collection sees the introduction of a plethora of whimsical and colourful bracelets and necklaces, including enamel initials on chains, as well as candy stripes, spinning hearts, woodland creatures, hinged clover leaf motifs and butterflies. Tel: 01271 329123

BABY BELLA

Baby Bella children’s collection includes presents for all age groups and all price points, with bright enamelled items as well as pieces in high polished plain silver. This autumn the company has introduced a Baby Bella Bead range with plenty of colour and choice of styles to create a young bespoke bracelet or necklet. Tel: 01829 771333

JO FOR GIRLS

The epitome of sparkle for little girls, this pendant and matching earrings have been set in silver with crystals in Aurora Borealis tones, that change colour as the light catches them. They make a glitzy alternative to Jo for Girl’s festively themed collection of enamel and gold-plated silver beads with snowmen, robins and Christmas trees. Tel: 01887 820 760

www.kitheath.com Tel 01271 329123 Email sales@kitheath.com

| BJA Silver Picks for Christmas

Santa’s Silver Nothing combines luxury with function quite as perfectly as a fine British silver gift at Christmas. The pieces shown here have been chosen for their modern twist on a classical theme. Let the pictures do the talking…

This bellied silver wine coaster is spun in London by skilled craftsmen and the clean design highlights the British hallmark to the full. RRP: £125.00 Tel: 020 8943 3257 www.hersey.co.uk L

Tregawne

This sterling silver, hallmarked and lacquered pen is from a large selection by Waldmann KG. Pens are presented in luxury presentation boxes and come with a 10 year guarantee. RRP: £180 Tel: 01386 861800 www.tregawne.co.uk

Perfect for water or wine, the ‘Bubble’ jug by Francis Howard of Sheffield combines modern design with old-fashioned workmanship. RRP £750 Tel: 0114 249 3314 www.francishoward.co.uk

Hi-ball and Whisky Glasses from the ‘Dome’ collection have crystal bowls and push-fit silver bases. RRP: £260 a glass. Replacement crystal is available in case of accident. Tel: 01527 502513 www.martynpugh.co.uk

CW Sellors

CW Sellors has broadened its horizons by introducing a handmade limited edition range of hallmarked and engraved silver lids. These include product jars from Henderson’s Relish to Heinz tomato sauce. RRPs range from £49. Tel: 01335 346561 www.cwsellors.com

28 The Jeweller October 2010

This silver bookmark with statement hallmarks is an ideal Christmas gift which lends itself to personalisation for engraving by the retailer. A full catalogue is available on request. RRP £60 Tel: 020 7622 7212 silver@harrison-howson.com

Francis Howard

Martyn Pugh

Harrison Bros & Howson

MC Hersey

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| Legal Jeweller

The Pitfalls of Christmas For many Christmas is a time of great cheer but, in difficult economic times, the pressure on employers can mount even further over the festive period. There are increased chances of employees calling in sick or being stuck in the bad weather – some even find themselves being sued by staff over events that take place at the office Christmas party. However, with a few practical steps, employers can minimise their risk of legal exposure and avoid a litigation hangover in the New Year, says Barry Stanton, head of Employment Law at Boyes Turner. The Office Party Employers are likely to be vicariously liable for their employees’ actions which are ‘in the course of their employment’. This phrase includes work-based social events, even those off-site and outside working hours. To limit their liability, employers should:• Have clear and widely communicated policies on equal opportunities and harassment. Send copies of these to all staff prior to any event. • Make clear you will not tolerate any behaviour of a discriminatory nature or which undermines dignity, bullies or harasses. • Train managers and employees on equal opportunities – managers should also lead by example. • Have a dispute resolution policy which allows employees to raise concerns and deals with them swiftly. • Limit the amount of free alcohol available, or at least provide soft drinks and food. Be respectful of other employees who, for whatever reason, do not drink.

30 The Jeweller October 2010

A Christmas ‘sickie’ A day’s sick leave is often difficult to measure; however, employers can include in their sickness policy mechanisms for self assessment forms or return to work interviews. If an office party is mid-week, employers should remind staff they are expected to report for work the next day and have a policy of no sick pay if employees are off sick the day after (or just pay SSP). Suspicious absences may also lead to disciplinary action being taken, subject to the usual investigations. Bad Weather In general, provided the workplace is open and work is there to be done, employers do not have to pay staff who do not report for work because of bad weather or travel difficulties. However, much will depend on the type of contract the employee is employed under and how they are paid. To avoid uncertainty, plan ahead. Have contingency plans about travelling to work, arranging cover and manager/employee contact details. Include a deductions clause in the contract withholding pay from employees taking unauthorised absence. Without it, employers can only withhold monies in certain ways and could be sued to recover the sums withheld. If an employer suspects unauthorised absence this would be a disciplinary matter which should be handled fairly and reasonably through the disciplinary procedure. If the disruption is to the employee’s childcare arrangements, there are

statutory rules which allow employees to take time off (unpaid) to deal with an emergency situation or an ‘unexpected disruption’ to childcare. Employees exercising their right to take emergency leave must not be treated less favourably. However, ask employees to be prepared and consider alternative arrangements. Be careful what you wish for… On a lighter note, an employee claimed that he had been promised a substantial pay rise at an annual dinner. The Employment Appeal Tribunal concluded that, considering the environment in question, the manager would not have intended to enter into a legally-binding contract! Be Prepared Plan ahead and consider the issues which may affect your business at Christmas. Do you have contingency plans, have you thought about cover for travel disruption, have you updated your equality policies and notified these to employees, have you asked employees to think about their own travel/holiday plans? Being ahead of the game is important in preparing for the festive season and avoiding the pitfalls. And finally… enjoy! Advice offered here is for general guidance only and is not a substitute for taking specific legal advice on an individual basis. You can contact Barry Stanton at Boyes Turner on telephone: 0118 952 7288, email him at: bstanton@boyesturner.com, visit the company’s website at: www.boyesturner.com for further information.

The only trade title with the exclusive support of both the NAG and the BJA The Jeweller is the only trade title to enjoy the unrivalled support of both UK trade associations, the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) and the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA). This gives the publication a broader appeal right across the industry for all retailers, suppliers, manufacturers and designers. Editorial includes news and comment from both associations which reinforces The Jeweller’s position as the ‘Voice of the industry’. Now published ten times a year and with a controlled distribution to members of the NAG and BJA, the magazine targets influential industry decision makers. These factors, along with a competitive rate card all keep The Jeweller one step ahead of its rivals and ensure a cost-effective vehicle for advertisers. Contact Ian Francis at CUBE Publishing on 020 7833 5500 or email: ian@cube-uk.com to discuss how The Jeweller can raise your profile in a competitive marketplace. For subscriptions telephone Amanda White at the NAG on +44 (0) 7613 4445 or send an email to her at: thejewellersubs@jewellers-online.org

The Voice of the Industry 31

| Security Update

Better safe...

Don’t leave it until the festive season is upon us to think about security – review your procedures now, says Michael Hoare.

s the Christmas period approaches, thieves, distraction merchants, and violent robbers will be gearing up to take advantage of the crowds, darker nights and higher stock levels that assist them in their attempts to make a dishonest living. The run up to the festive season seems to get longer every year and preparations are well in hand for most retailers even as I write, so I make no apology for bringing up the subject of security once again. Indeed, now is just the time to review your security procedures in advance of the silly season. And by that I don’t just mean your physical security measures, but also the processes that you and your staff adopt to ward off attempts; behaviours that you adopt while a crime is in progress; and the dos and don’ts to remember after any incident. Time spent now in ‘rehearsal’ may be well spent if it ever comes to the real thing! The NAG’s council meeting, which will be held on 12th October at Fortnum and Masons in London, will offer an opportunity to get some hints and tips on reviewing your procedures from Mark Beale of the Metropolitan Police; a chance to brush up on some of the scams and modus operandi

32 The Jeweller October 2010

employed by minor criminals; and get an insight into where stolen goods end up.

Smash and grab robberies continue with offenders hitting stores to steal high value watches and armed robbery and distraction offences continue across the country. SaferGems Latest July saw 45 incidents and attacks reported to SaferGems and over 20 alerts circulated, bringing the numbers to 280 attacks and 50 suspicious incidents reported to date in 2010. That means that more than 480 reports have been taken since the initiative began back in June 2009. Clearly this means there is a significant body of intelligence available to the police and SaferGems members, and over 150 alerts have been issued to date. Not unexpectedly, some of the biggest and

most populated police areas are the worst affected by criminal activity, and our data shows that West Midlands Police is at the top of the leader board, with the Metropolitan Police and Thames Valley coming in second and third respectively. As more data is gathered trends begin to emerge that link individuals to specific types of crime. For instance smash and grab robberies continue with offenders hitting stores to steal high value watches including Rolex and Breitling brands and armed robbery and distraction offences continue across the country. In July West Yorkshire Police linked an armed robbery at a jewellery store in Bradford to two previous armed robberies in the area. Lincolnshire Police meanwhile were running an operation investigating a series of distraction offences across the force area with possible links to Birmingham and Leicester. SaferGems has recently assisted the Metropolitan Police in the recovery of an eternity ring and the subsequent arrest of a suspect, while there have been reports of sales representatives being followed or attacked in the West Midlands and Hertfordshire, which reinforces the desirability of co-operation across all branches of the jewellery sector. There has also been an increase in victims being targeted at their home addresses. The North East in particular is seeing a rise in dwelling burglaries whereby Asian gold is being stolen. Disturbingly, an elderly disabled woman and her jeweller son were followed from their business to their home address in Lancashire and robbed in what is believed to be a pre-planned attack. Reports that parcel delivery companies were refusing to service the jewellery quarter in Birmingham for fear of robbery were compounded by a cash-in-transit attack in July. Thankfully the situation has now been resolved

To report intelligence, suspicions, or incidents, contact SaferGems on 0845 272 7802 or visit: www.safergems.org.uk For further details of the NAG council meeting email: ritu@jewellers-online.org

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| Ethical Jeweller

Is Kimberley Dead? In the wake of recent directives on the issue of diamonds from Zimbabwe, Greg Valerio questions the role and clout of the Kimberley Process and asks where the jeweller goes from here. atching the recent media scrum surrounding the Charles Taylor war crimes proceedings in The Hague made me realise how fragile the public image of the jewellery industry is. Naomi Campbell, Mia Farrow, huge dirty-looking rocks, midnight visits to supermodels’ bedrooms, disgruntled ex agents, African dictators, civil wars, poverty and exploitation, made an intoxicating news cocktail that grabbed the headlines on a daily basis over July and August. Campbell’s appearance may well have added a well-needed touch of super model oxygen to the prosecution case, but it has not served the jewellery trade at all. While Campbell can seemingly be forgiven for mis-remembering, the jeweller is not afforded the same luxury. They have to deal with the fallout of the media’s renewed interest in the blood diamond story with their customers. The ease with which the story fast-tracked itself onto the front pages has been the most disturbing aspect of the story from the jeweller’s perspective. Yet despite the very serious nature of why Taylor is on trial, I cannot help thinking that this is a distraction from the real issues that are current and alive in the diamond industry. During the same weeks that Taylor’s trial was

34 The Jeweller October 2010

making news headlines, the Zimbabwe Government, the World Diamond Council, the Kimberley Process (KPCS) – the international diamond governance system designed to protect the world market from conflict or blood diamonds – and The International Diamond Manufacturers Association have all sanctioned and endorsed the export of rough diamonds from the Marange Region. Even the UK Diamond Office provided me with the following statement: “We are encouraged by the fact that all parties to the Kimberley Process, including civil society and the Government of Zimbabwe, were able to agree, at an emergency meeting in St Petersburg 14-15 July, on a work plan that allows Zimbabwe the possibility of making limited exports of rough diamonds from its Marange field’. Zimbabwe is now a country as rich in diamonds as it is in institutionalised human rights violations.

The Problem The problem stems from the vast wealth of diamonds discovered in the Marange region of eastern Zimbabwe in 2006. The ousting of the legal leaseholders, African Consolidated Resources, on the orders of the Zimbabwe

Government, catalysed the opportunistic migration of small-scale diamond miners to the region seeking an immediate alleviation of their desperate poverty through diamond digging. The African continent through the forcible and violent removal of approximately 35,000 small-scale miners from the site by the military, once again saw the shedding of blood over its diamond fields. The Zimbabwe military according to Human Rights Watch committed serious human rights abuses in the clearance of the site with one local miner saying of a massacre: “Soldiers in helicopters started firing live ammunition and tear gas at us. We all stopped digging and began to run toward the hills to hide. I noticed that there were many uniformed soldiers on foot pursuing us. From my syndicate, 14 miners were shot and killed that morning.” Once again Africa saw the shedding of blood over its diamond fields and as a result Zimbabwe was suspended from the Kimberley Process in November 2008 . Two questionable companies Mbada and Canadile were then given the mining leases to the Marange region. Grace Mugabe is reported as profiteering from the countries’ diamond fields in July of this year. All this adds up to a state of abject confusion, anarchy, human rights abuses, and political corruption. It is worth noting that Zanu-PF control the Army, the Police, the Justice Ministry and the Ministry for Mines. Before the Kimberley Process monitor arrived to investigate the Marange region in March 2010, Mugabe was on record in February and subsequently during the State opening of Parliament in July as saying, "No-one should doubt our resolve to sell our diamonds". On the 11th August the first sale of rough diamond officially sanctioned under the Kimberley Process took place and is estimated, according to the Minister for Mines, to be worth $250 million. The row now raging between the Finance Minister (MDC) and Minister for Mines (Zanu-PF) demonstrates the highly questionable destination for the proceeds of the diamond sale; with concerns being expressed they will finance the 2012 Zanu-PF election campaign. Is it fair to assume that such a rich deposit of rough diamond will be used by the few to enrich themselves and maintain power to the detriment of the many? I genuinely hope that I am wrong.

Ethical Jeweller | Zimbabwe has now been allowed to sell its diamonds to the world market under the auspices of the Kimberley Process. To be clear, there is a restriction on the sale and export of Zimbabwe diamonds from the Marange Region. However this has not stopped the media, diamond industry experts and many jewellers from reacting with a sense of outrage at the prospect of stones from such a highly questionable source entering the supply chain. I have been fortunate enough to be able to review the KPCS work plan for Zimbabwe drafted in November 2009, the document upon which the decision in July 2010 to allow the limited export of Marange stones was based. The Joint Work Plan on Zimbabwe aims to demilitarise the region, stop the endemic smuggling and institute a transparent reporting structure as some of its content highlighted below demonstrates: a) Phased withdrawal of military personnel. Action Ministry of Mines and Zimbabwe Military authorities b) Develop a cooperation strategy with Mozambique to restrict smuggling and urgently establish diamond-buying structures in the Marange diamond fields, allocated to small-scale miners. Action Ministry of Mines c) Reports to the KPCS Chair and WGM by end of 2009, and thereafter, quarterly: The Ministry of Mines will continuously inform the KPCS on developments on legal disputes over mineral rights and, as the case may be, adjust the work plan accordingly in consultation with the WGM. Action Ministry of Mines My conversation with one of the KPCS working group members highlighted the difficult position the group faced. As they explained, the consequences of maintaining the ban on Zimbabwe diamonds created in their opinion an even worse scenario that the limited sale would create.

Divided Diamonds The diamond industry, once united behind the Kimberley Process, is now divided about Zimbabwe being allowed to sell 900,000 carats given the systemic abuses of human rights associated with the Marange region. Despite the diamond establishment’s spin to prop up the credentials of the Kimberley Process, I haven’t spoken to a single jeweller who is happy about the situation. Indeed

the American based Rapaport Group has banned any of its members from handling stones from Zimbabwe. As recently as 22nd August, the UK’s largest buying group, the Company of Master Jewellers, has gone on record supporting the ban on Zimbabwe diamonds on account of the confusion they bring to the jewellery industry as a whole. To further compound the global consumer confusion surrounding the diamond supply chain, the Responsible Jewellery Council, a trade association established by the big jewellery brands, mining companies and dominated by the diamond industry, welcomed the export of rough stones from the Marange region. This seems counter intelligent given that its mission is ‘reinforcing confidence in the diamond and gold supply chain’. RJC welcoming the export of stones that are clearly marinated in human rights violations, child labour, exploitation, political corruption and the violent deaths of smallscale miners, seems to be working against its stated objectives. Naturally this support has led to a number of resignations from the association.

…physical traceability is the defining issue when it comes to ethical claims and considerations in the jewellery supply chain What our friends in the diamond industry seem to be forgetting is that there is no ‘business as usual’ anymore for diamonds. Human rights is an issue that transcends the worldview of the small minority group who have set themselves up as champions of the diamond value chain. What is abundantly clear however is that The Kimberley Process does not include institutionalised human rights violations as a reason for expulsion

from the system – a current loophole that has been expertly exploited by the Zimbabwe elite. Mugabe’s public and prolonged announcements that he would export Zimbabwe’s diamonds regardless of the Kimberley Process has demonstrated that the system itself, apart from being foundationally flawed, will cave-in when bullied. This is not a victory for Kimberley; it is rather a knock-out blow that has sent her into a coma.

In Conclusion The inability of the underfunded and malnourished Kimberley to stand on her founding principles of stopping the trade in diamonds that are fuelling conflicts, which the situation in Zimbabwe has demonstrated itself to be, renders the current incarnation of Kimberley as anaemic and anorexic. She can no longer be relied on to protect the industry from being explicitly linked to violence, conflict and human rights abuses. This leaves the jeweller with a chill wind blowing through his diamond pipeline. If we cannot trust Kimberley, whom can we trust? For jewellers and consumers the key question that must be asked now is: “Do your diamonds have mine-to-market traceability guaranteed?” As a jeweller I know that physical traceability is the defining issue when it comes to ethical claims and considerations in the jewellery supply chain. The jewellery trade and its loyal customers deserve better than the compromise being served currently by its Dickensian diamond masters. Is Kimberley dead? Only the doctors’ report at the end of September, when the Monitor reports what progress has been delivered on the ground in Marange, will we be able to conclude if she will recover from Zimbabwe’s abuse of her naivety and vulnerability. Should the bully succeed in killing her off I can only hope and pray her successor will have more backbone.

Greg Valerio, The Fair Trade Jeweller – www.blog.gregvalerio.com Sources http://www.hrw.org/en/news/2009/06/26/zimbabwe-end-repression-marangediamond-fields – 50% owned by Zimbabwe State Mineral Development Company http://www.zimbabwemetro.com/headline/grace-mugabe-fingered-in-diamonds-looting/ http://news.scotsman.com/world/Mugabe-vows-to-sell-Zimbabwe39s.6417655.jp http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/b275fe10-a58d-11df-a5b7-00144feabdc0.html http://www.ibtimes.com/articles/43752/20100816/american-group-bans-zimbabwe-smarange-diamonds.htm http://www.responsiblejewellery.com/news.html

The Voice of the Industry 35

London Road Jewellery makes its national debut Having successfully launched in twelve John Lewis stores last year, London Road Jewellery is turning to the UK’s independent jewellers this autumn. Is this a good time to be launching such a brand nationally? ccording to Ed Adams, managing director of a third-generation fine jewellery manufacturer, the company behind London Road: “The opportunity to launch the brand was sparked by the rising gold price of the last two years. In essence, there has been a void between branded silver jewellery and 18ct fine gem-set jewellery. We recognised this as an opportunity to create an affordably priced, inspirationally designed gold and coloured stone collection.” A top London-based branding agency, which works with leading fashion brands such as Matthew Williamson and Burberry, was recruited to help develop a cohesive concept for the brand, including bespoke, unique packaging and the website. The agency also produced a number of concepts, which included the name London Road Jewellery.

“As we have manufactured our jewellery in London Road for some seventy years, London Road Jewellery was the name that was most meaningful,” explains Suzanne Adams, Ed’s sister and a director of this family-run concern. “We also liked London Road because, creatively, the collections mirror the excitement, colour and diversity that is London. As a result, we named the six collections after some of the capital’s most recognised neighbourhoods – Bloomsbury,

36 The Jeweller October 2010

Burlington, Kew, Pimlico, Portobello and Primrose Hill.” London Road is a celebration of vibrant colour and elegant, contemporary design. Pendants, necklaces, rings and earrings in 18ct and 9ct gold with rose gold – a key trend at this year’s BaselWorld – featuring strongly. As well as the brightest diamonds, a wide range of unusual gemstones, including moonstone, multi-coloured pearls, prehnite and rutilated quartz embody the London Road hallmarks of colour, texture and shape. Presentation is an important part of the London Road offer, says Suzanne. “We use distinctive black packaging sporting the London Road gold foil logo and trimmed with eye-catching lipstick pink or lime green. Packaging, brochures and flexible point of sale material are supplied free. London Road is also supporting its stockists with local advertising for which there will be financial support.” Says Ed: “The core retail price range for London Road jewellery is from £200 to £500 RRP. There is virtually nothing out there at that price. As an honestly-priced product, London Road differs from many other brands in offering notable value for money. And, as there is no silver or gold-plate in the collection, we are not compromising the integrity of the brand.

“Our seventy years of experience as a manufacturer gives us a bigger storehouse of knowledge than most other makers. We have fantastically skilled pattern-makers with the knowledge to translate good designs into exciting, accessibly priced, durable and wearable jewellery. We are working to very tight margins, have identified attractive price points and produced our jewellery accordingly. We can be this flexible as our collections are made in our own workshops where twenty people are employed.”

“In future,” says Suzanne, “London Road will produce two new collections a year. We are concentrating on building the London Road name so that it becomes an internationally known and trusted jewellery brand, very keenly priced, that women love to wear. “We are delighted with the positive response and take-up of London Road to date. Retailers have understood our concept and thus offered stunning confirmation that our market-gap perceptions were spot on.” Following their success with John Lewis, Ed and Suzanne Adams now have high hopes of wooing and winning the independents. Their aim is to develop a long-term, two-way relationship with this very important group of retailers working together to put London Road on the map.

Telephone + 44 (0)844 871 8454 www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk info@londonroadjewellery.co.uk

| Opinion : John Henn

Customer Evenings: a Beginner’s Guide Before a demanding audience of EDFers, John Henn and fellow jeweller Simon Cupitt presented an introduction to hosting a customer event. ome of you out there in jewellery land have very well oiled wheels when it comes to after hours retailing and, if you happen to be one of those, please feel free to e-mail me some of our omissions, (jhenn@btconnect.com). Our intention, for the EDF meeting last month, was to create a guide for those first timers who might shy away from such an event for fear of the unknown. We rolled out a series of issues, each of which needs consideration before the event goes ahead. Firstly the product itself: is it a general store offering, a new brand, or design service? Secondly the potential client base – a mix of both established and new should be sought. Marketing companies will sell you precise lists of names and addresses of exactly the sort of people you would like to invite. Others will take your own data and clean out all the dead people; worth the fee alone in saved postage! For the record, if a customer hasn’t been in your store for three years, it is time to commit them to the deep… be tough. Among those present at the meeting, the experiences varied dramatically when it

38 The Jeweller October 2010

came to conversion from invite numbers to positive replies. Some of us would invite 300 people and received 80 acceptances; others would invite 3,000 and be delighted to receive 40. The common thread was that if clients are not invited too often they were more likely to come and purchase. The more clients you have the more events you need to accommodate them. More than one invite a year tends to turn them into social occasions which is not what you want when they’re drinking your Champagne! We looked at invites using the Post Office’s Business Reply service to avoid including a stamped addressed envelope. We should of course all be collecting e-mail addresses to reduce the paper trail to zero, but one thing at a time. Preferred timing slots are essential to manage the number of clients in the store at any one time – all our stores are different sizes. In some, four couples will be comfortable, in others 40. Overlapping one hour slots seemed to be enough time to view an in-store collection. Security must be accommodated – some city centre sites are quite intimidating places

after hours. Very smart licensed security can be hired for around £90 for five hours; blatant thugs for half the price! Food should be restricted to bite size – the last thing you want is food all over the stock and the carpet. Not essential to the success, but it may be available very inexpensively if sponsored by a nearby restaurant who might supply serving staff as well. This partnership angle is a gold mine; one member of our association has all his guests collected by an executive car chauffeuring service, which would appear to be very happy with the promotion opportunity given for practically nothing and the jeweller has his clients delivered to the store! For your customers there does of course have to be a carrot to an evening – above the drinks and the convivial atmosphere – and that’s the ‘D’ word. Discount is the most common draw, but it may be possible to provide added value a little less blatantly, and not give so much bottom line away. Suggestions on a post card please! Other areas we looked at were working with trade manufacturers, timing within the year, publicity, staff, and vouchers for future sales. Costs varied from £1000 to £9000. Generally after all events there is a very good feeling about what you have achieved; sales after closing time are a bonus, and nobody lost money. So if you have been on the edge of having a do, take the leap.

“There does of course have to be a carrot to an evening – above the drinks and the convivial atmosphere – and that’s the ‘D’ word.” ust to give you an update on the Zimbabwean’s Marange region export of two Kimberly Process-approved shipments of diamonds to China – these appear to have gone ahead. As I type, a KP review mission is considering further exports while visiting the region. Some brands are already drawing a line in the sand, stating they will not be buying these stones. While the press releases are very flowery, outlining that everybody is working so hard for the good of everybody else, I expect the majority will vote with their cheque books.

| Feature

Gemvision – CounterSketch Those of a Luddite or technophobic disposition, look away now – the world of computer wizardry for jewellers has just taken another giant leap forward. Review by Belinda Morris. ven for an industry as steeped in tradition and craftsmanship as ours is, the march of progress cannot be ignored and for many jewellery retailers CAD/CAM could be described as one of the most significant business-affirming advances of the past few years. And now Gemvision, one of the major players in this brave new world of jewellery creation, has raised the bar and broadened the scope of this technology several notches with the introduction of CounterSketch Studio. Described by Gemvision as a ‘bespoke design solution’, the new technology – a world’s first – is essentially a complete CAD/CAM design operation that works from a counter top, by combining computer knowhow from Gemvision with top notch fulfilment from US jewellery manufacturer Stuller. And even the borderline computer-illiterate (like me) would be forced to admit that the process is as user-friendly as it is impressive. Julia Gotrel of Martin Gotrel Jewellers in Chipping Campden is one early convert. “I was intrigued by the Matrix system that was being used in the workshop, but it

40 The Jeweller October 2010

was far too complex for me,” she explains. “So it was so refreshing and exciting to actually be in a position where I could design a ring using the library available with Countersketch. It’s a brilliant front of house tool – it enables a design to be tweaked and personalised within a few minutes and the function to also have your own margin included in your instant quote leaves no

The choices and permutations are as boundless as the creativity and imagination of the customer and salesperson. room for ‘guestimating’,” she adds. “And the quality of the completed piece is of a very high standard – with a choice of diamond qualities available, so you are able to meet most clients’ budgets.” Rosemary Robinson of Robinson Jewellers in Bangor, County Down has been using CounterSketch since April, having “waited

for about 20 years for something like this” to come along. “We have been manufacturing jewellery… well, forever,” she says, “but in the process, the one thing that is always difficult to get across is what the finished item will look like. Now, the rendered computer images are almost better than any photograph of the final piece would be.” And ease of use? “After the course, I was able to show the others in the shop how to use it in less than half an hour.” So, how does CounterSketch work? The process begins with a consultation with the customer to get a general idea of the ring wanted (other categories of jewellery are in the pipeline). A huge library of starting point virtual designs will help narrow down the choice and from that stage the ring can be customised, whether it’s in terms of the centre stone colour, the main metal colour, the centre stone shape and size, the profile of the shank, band width, how the stones are set… the choices and permutations are as boundless as the creativity and imagination of the customer and salesperson. And the whole procedure isn’t just easy – it’s fun. Once a design has been decided on – helped by a rotating 3D model on screen as well as the ring being placed on a moving, virtual hand, whose skin tone matches that of the customer – an instant live retail estimate to budget can be given and the order sent to Stuller. The hallmarked item is then sent to the customer in 14 days or less. Seemples! Not having to carry stock of such a vast range of styles is an obvious advantage to the retailer, but because it can help sales to have something solid to touch, Stuller provides seven CZ set rhodiumplated alloy prototype rings. Pioneers of CounterSketch are finding that customers are as enthusiastic about the system as they are. “They love the fact that they are a part of the creation of the ring,” says Robinson, “it’s a very strong perception.” She is also mindful of the future of the family firm. “Our youngest daughter Jenifer is now a part of the business and, while my husband Eric is at the bench making jewellery, it won’t always be the case,” she explains. “We have to think about how Jenifer will manage at that point. This is making our life easier.”

And while it’s tempting (and cosy) to concentrate on what’s happening in your own back yard (local competitors, customers, staff suppliers – there’s enough to think about) anyone who sells diamonds needs to keep an eye on the global markets too. “In terms of diamonds, it’s India and China that you’re competing with,” argued diamond trade consultant Martin Rapaport at a seminar given at IJL last month. “The wealth and demand is coming from the east… and the demand for diamonds is outgrowing supply – so the prices will go up,” he added. He’s not alone in his views. “Natural diamonds are a commodity, which are getting rarer… you can’t replace what’s come out of the hole,” says Ricky Krochmal of diamond cutting and polishing firm Krochmal & Lieber. “China and Russia are the new economies asking for diamonds, so prices will go up.” The feeling among both traders and retailers is that prices for polished diamonds are now back where they were pre-crisis, having dropped dramatically then plateaued through 2009. But it’s also evident that prices for rough have risen very sharply recently – out of kilter with polished. As it takes up to two years from mining the stone for its

DIAM NDS

Still a Girl’s Best Friend While coloured gemstones are currently finding favour with fickle fashionistas, the desire for diamonds is as enduring as a symbol of true love ought to be. Belinda Morris reports on the key issues, trends and directions of the market. ast month the Fine Jewellery Sale at Bonhams offered fairly convincing evidence (should it be needed) that the market for diamonds – at the top end of the scale certainly – is pretty buoyant. Perched at the apex of the top ten lots (most of which comprised diamonds and went for way above their estimates) was the highlight of the sale, a late art deco Asscher cut diamond ring. Weighing 6.82 carats, D colour and potentially flawless, it prompted a

42 The Jeweller October 2010

heated bidding war, in and out of the room, until the hammer came down on a hefty £322,000 – over double the ring’s original lower estimate. As we cautiously inch our way out of the financial mire and keep our fingers crossed for a brighter economic future, it seems that diamonds, while not completely immune to recessional ravages, have ridden out the past two or so difficult years with their global sales figures at a healthy level.

W&W Private Jewellers

ability to be sold at retail there will be a knock-on effect. ‘Buy now what you think you can sell’ is a general consensus.

Love makes the world go round… mostly And it’s definitely true to say that on the diamond front, what most manufacturers, designers and retailers are selling are engagement rings… in a white metal, set with

Main image courtesy of Boodles

Feature |

Chalfen

round brilliants. Unsurprisingly, the wedding market accounts for the majority of diamond sales, certainly in the UK, and the biggest demand from loved-up consumers is for the classic round shape diamond. Johnson puts the figure at around 70 per cent of retail sales globally. “Most rough diamond shapes are conducive to being cut that way – there’s less waste,” he adds. Such pragmatic concerns aside, the fact remains that round is the shape of choice. “It’s definitely the main shape that’s selling,” admits Krochmal, “but it’s probably got a lot to do with what retailers believe their customers will want. We’re also finding that more of them are open to buying slightly more included stones, as they’re working to a budget.” “Diamonds are still far and away the most popular choice for engagement rings,” says Howard Levine of Chalfen jewellery manufacturers, “and the most popular shape is still a round brilliant cut and we don’t expect that to change in the near future.” But he does note the cyclical changes that are occurring with fancy shapes: princess cuts are second favourites while emerald, Asscher and cushion have pushed out the recently popular marquise and pear cuts, he says. “Our tastes as a nation have become more conservative over the past 15 years and just as home decor has become more calm, so taste in jewellery has gone back to the classics,” observes Jonathan Lambert of the eponymous Sudbury jewellers, which

sells predominantly round and square cut solitaires. “And particularly when times are hard customers feel they will get more wear out of a classic piece,” he adds. “There’s no market for fancy shapes,” says John Henn of TA Henn in Wolverhampton. “If we get one back to re-sell we get no interest… except to re-cut it!” There are exceptions to this rule of course. Are diamonds the most important stone stone for an engagement ring? “By a country mile,” says Michael Wainwright, MD of Boodles. Round ones? “No, cushion – when they’re shown the shape customers like it; there are not many around. But square shapes are a lot less popular… I don’t know why,” he adds. And fine jewellers Dennis & Lavery are also bucking the trend. “In our bespoke and designer business we use fancy

Marquise, princess, oval and cushion catch the eye of couples who are after a more individual style or unique design.

Clogau Gold

shapes such as Asscher, marquise, princess, oval and cushion and these catch the eye of couples who are after a more individual style or unique design,” explains Cindy Dennis Mangan. And while round and princess account for most sales of Gemex’s Raphael Collection of diamond rings, the company offers six different cuts including the latest – a crisscross baguette which has added sparkle thanks to extra facets on the table. “The market in this country is extremely traditional, but people who see it love it,” says Lee Ruben, sales director, “and our Raphael cut – an Asscher without the corners – is also very popular; aesthetically it’s gorgeous!” Mixing cuts – like baguettes and rounds – in one ring is also finding favour with his retail customers.

Paul Spurgeon

Diamond Facts o o o o

The word diamond comes from the Greek word adamas meaning unconquerable Throughout history diamonds were thought to have magical powers Only one diamond in a million weighs one carat or more Diamonds are samples of the deepest part of the earth to which man has gained access o Auction numbers show that for every 112 Picassos offered, ONE blue diamond is sold o More than 250 tons of ore need to be crushed and processed to yield just one carat of rough gem-quality diamond

The Voice of the Industry 43

| Feature The MasterCut diamond is based on the traditional round brilliant – but with 32 more facets: a unique star is faceted into the culet which directs light through the crown and table. To the lay person it’s a subtle difference, but its added brilliance is a strong talking point. The stone has inspired two new collections of contemporary jewellery – pendants and earrings as well as rings – that showcase its configuration. For London-based W&W Private Jewellers the shape of a diamond will depend entirely on the design of the ring or piece of jewellery. “When it comes to colourless diamonds 5C Jewelry

people often come back to choosing a brilliant cut,” admits co-owner Richard Warrender, “after all it is the perfect cut.” But he adds that current trends have increased demand for oval, cushion and octagonal cuts. In Domino’s new ‘Flow’ collection the company is finding that there is strong demand for square princess cut stones. “Our range is designed to cover all options… but pear and emerald cut designs are also currently selling well,” says marketing director Andrew Sollitt, who also points out that while it’s taken a little while to really take off – in the UK at least – the trend for diamond set wedding bands has arrived. “It’s a relatively new phenomenon, but is now a big market for Domino,” he says. “Nowadays, when it comes to a wedding ring, people want something a little different from the traditional plain band,” explains Ken Jones, marketing manager of Clogau Gold. The ‘Am Byth’ (the Welsh word for ‘forever’) collection of rings, which includes diamonds has naturally proved a very useful as well as poetic way of saying “I love you” for many of its customers.

44 The Jeweller October 2010

Yves Frey

“The style of rings that ladies in particular choose for a wedding band is traditionally considered as an eternity ring – but this has been a huge growth area for us,” says Amber Saunders of Bien Rings. Barry Jacobs of Jacobs Jewellery in Hatton Gardenagrees, adding: “They are now at the height of fashion – complementing the engagement ring and ‘blinging it up’ on a smaller budget; it looks like more for your money.” For Levine at Chalfen the reason for this trend is that many people now want diamonds set into the channel of an engagement ring, “and the obvious choice of wedding band has to include diamonds

to match,” he says. London jeweller David Marshall has also noticed an upturn in the number of clients wanting diamond set wedding bands. “And over the last couple of years I have made some very impressive gents’ diamond set bands,” he adds, highlighting another growth area in the diamond market.

A question of colour While the wedding market and the shapes of stones might, on the whole, present a rather traditional overview of the diamond market stylistically-speaking, a major point of

Natural diamonds are a commodity, which are getting rarer… you can’t replace what’s come out of the hole.

Theo Fennell

raphael

THE

COLLECTION

The Finest Bridal & Eternity Rings F/G VS Quality Diamonds x Platinum x 18 Carat x Palladium 950

Est. 1967

DIAMOND MERCHANTS–MANUFACTURERS 32–34 Greville Street London EC1N 8TB Tel: 020 7242 1080 Fax: 020 7831 1080 E-mail: sales@gemex.biz Website: www.gemex.biz

| Feature difference comes courtesy of fancy colour diamonds. Just how relevant this sector of the jewellery business is depends on who you speak to of course. “There’s an interest there,” says Krochmal, “but as they’re less well known many jewellers are scared to put their foot into the market.” And cost aside, colour (particularly in the wedding market) is not necessarily as sought after as white/clear. “Most people are trying to achieve a clean look,” explains Vikram Santilal of Jeram Jewellers in London’s Green Street. 5C Jewelry

Nevertheless, diamonds that fall below Z on the colour scale are making their presence felt and for some suppliers and retailers they form the focus of the business. “They are my passion and my speciality as well,” says Yves Frey of Yves Frey Diamonds, “and of all fancy colours, yellows are the most popular – they are considered elegant and sophisticated and imbue the wearer with a certain glow. And nature gave us more yellow diamonds in large sizes.” Jeram

46 The Jeweller October 2010

CW Sellors

to one of the five senses?” Using the very differently configurated ‘ice flower’ cut, which has two culets, top and bottom, the new pieces will be accompanied by the tag ‘fancy a choc ice?’ Sure to prompt an aspirational emotion in those of a certain age… It might be argued that fancy colour diamonds – while scarily expensive in larger sizes – are encouraging women to buy jewellery for themselves. Generally speaking the colour aspect takes the stone away from the bridal arena and into the world of style

There’s the rub of course. While fancy colours are creeping into collections and consumer consciousness, price usually determines which colours in particular (unless colours are achieved through treatments). “Pink diamonds are always a drawcard for our clients, given their scarcity and desirability,” says Australian jeweller John Calleija who has a shop on Old Bond Street. And for Boodles, fancy pinks and yellows create an important point of difference in a number of their ranges. “Yellow diamonds are the heroes of our vintage engagement rings and are selling well,” says Wainwright.

Boodles

Customers’ knowledge has increased dramatically… they know that diamonds have a colour and a clarity grade, but a deeper understanding still seems elusive. “Colours like yellow, blues and pinks are all the rage… we’re mounting many more of them, for private customers as well as for retailers,” says Barry Jacobs. While at Dennis & Lavery, where fancy pink and yellow diamonds “have been popular for a long time” the past two years have seen male clients in particular “becoming fascinated by coloured diamonds in black and brown hues,” says Dennis Mangan. For jewellery designer Paul Spurgeon, who is shortly to launch a range called ‘Chocolat’, fancy colour diamonds are definitely an upand-coming market. “Especially chocolate – most people call them brown, but that’s a very unsexy word,” he says. “In conjunction with rose gold, what better way to connect

and even serious collecting. “One of our collections is created around coloured diamonds,” says Gert-Jan Beukenkamp of Antwerp-based 5c Jewelry. “The fact that you can mix, match and stack using different colours makes colour diamonds a fantastic ingredient for the high-end fashion jewellery market.” And Yve Frey’s ‘Les Mini Adorables’ collection of stackable rings featuring small, natural colour diamonds, certainly lend themselves to self-indulgence.

Black is back While some stone dealers and jewellers might be sniffy about them, given their low grade status and comparative abundance, black diamonds are also enjoying a spotlight Stephen Webster

Feature | men’s collections we have learned a lot about what is likely to turn men on,” he says. “The whole sparkly thing is too associated with women’s jewellery and just too pretentious for most guys. However, over the last couple of years we have seen a sharp rise in sales of pieces with black diamonds. Men love manly materials.”

Gemex

moment. “They’re an attractive look, especially when set with white diamonds for a monochrome look,” says Lambert, whose view is echoed by Eleanor Pyke, MD of Pykes the Jewellers in the North-West and director of NAG and the Houlden Group, who reports that black and white diamonds together are increasingly popular in jewellery lines other than engagement rings. Like men’s jewellery for instance. Tony Power of Cox & Power notes that while diamonds are now starting to appear in men’s jewellery, it tends to be the unconventional variety – like black diamonds – which are selling well, along with yellows, greens and blues. The addition of black, brown or colourless diamonds gives our men’s rings in heavyweight platinum the luxurious edge that our clients demand,” adds Dennis Mangan, “but they still exude masculinity.” And try telling über-hip jewellery designer Stephen Webster that black diamonds have no aesthetic value. His men’s collection would certainly lack some of its glam gothic appeal without the glossy black stones. “With 10 years experience producing full

Calleija

A little knowledge… One essential requisite for selling fancy colour diamonds (apart from a decent budget) is knowledge. While some aficionados and connoisseurs understand about their qualities, to most they’re a mystery that requires explanation. “Pink diamonds can be an unknown commodity to some clients, as they are so rare,” says Calleija. “Many people have never seen them before and don’t understand the special geological

David Marshall

Coloured Diamond Know-How The recently launched Fancy Color Diamond Book (see Notebook, p.60) offers these pointers plus this (abridged) guide to the origin of the colour in coloured diamonds: o Unlike white diamonds, fancy colour diamonds are graded by description which indicates the amount of colour saturation in the diamond, ie its intensity, from faint and very light to vivid, dark and deep o While this grading is standardised, the gems are often referred to by more ornate names like pumpkin orange and baby pink o With fancy colour diamonds, the value is determined first by colour and second by carat weight Yellow – the most popular and most commonly produced of all natural coloured diamonds, it is nitrogen molecules absorbing blue light, that make the diamond appear yellow Pink – Unlike other fancy colour diamonds, this colour is not due to foreign trace elements trapped inside the diamond’s structure, but light traveling along growth planes. Disturbances during the growth process create graining planes that bend light and produce a pink hue. Vivid pink diamonds continually break records on the rare occasions that they reach the markets. Red – Crystal lattice defects showing stress lamination during the diamond’s formation is the main cause of the red colour. Probably the most desired of the fancy colour diamonds with seven-figure price tickets to match. Green – caused by millions of years of natural radiation – which result in brown stains on the skin of the rough crystal. Leaving these stains intact when cut shows that the stone’s colour is natural rather than having undergone irradiation treatment to create an artificial colour. Blue – the presence of boron in the diamond’s crystal matrix creates the colour in these rare and expensive gems. Brown – a more abundant and therefore affordable stone, the hue of which is caused by a change in the diamond’s molecular structure. Light brown diamonds are often referred to as champagne. Black – these are opaque stones, the colour caused by criss-crossing fissures containing black deposits, and are the most affordable of all fancy colours. Many on the market are treated to create the high sheen – naturally-occuring black diamonds are rare.

The Voice of the Industry 47

| Feature conditions that create them – so it’s sometimes an educational process.” “There’s a lack of education and understanding about coloured diamonds,” adds Johnson. “Due to their rarity, availability and pricing structure they’re a different product [to white diamonds]. It takes knowledge

beautifully cut but utilising the best of the lower clarity grades has tapped into this shallower understanding.” Paul Spurgeon’s ‘D’ Flawless Collection offers customers platinum rings set with diamonds that are guaranteed to be D colour and of Flawless clarity (offering the

Krochmal & Lieber

and skill to sell them; to get customers to appreciate how special they are.” It all comes down to education which, from the GIA’s perspective, is the key to retailing with confidence – whatever you’re selling. And as consumers are increasingly able to gen up on diamonds in general, investing in your staff’s knowledge is more crucial than ever. “Customers’ knowledge of diamonds seems to have increased dramatically… at least superficially,” says Levine. “They seem to know that diamonds have a colour and a clarity grade, but a deeper understanding still seems elusive. Our ‘Candour’ range, being based purely on D colour diamonds,

diamonds. “A lot of the information out there can be contradictory and confusing,” says Julie Barry of Hearts on Fire Diamonds, which aims to take the fear out of the diamond-buying experience. “It would be a step to far to say most consumers are knowledgeable,” says Bien’s Saunders. “They still require the experience and advice from our retail jewellers.” Which pretty much echoes the view of many. “People are now hugely aware of colour, clarity and cut, but I know of quite a lot of cases where a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing and where people have bought stones from the internet and been very unhappy with what they’ve received,” says Marshall. And there’s also such a thing as too much knowledge. “A few spend too much time – before even seeing a stone – on assessing theoretical symmetry, polish and cut, tables, depth and girdle thickness, to name just a few,” says Yves Frey. “These parameters are important, but when they finally see the diamonds they go for the brilliance and the sparkle; they fall for the beauty – the proof is in the stone.”

Consumers [are] aware of ‘blood diamonds’, so it is vital that retailers are prepared to answer questions openly purity that the ring symbolises) but, because each diamond is no larger than 20 points, the diamond rings are eminently affordable for such perfection. The internet – a great resource when used judiciously – can have both a positive and negative effect on consumer knowledge of

Jacobs Jewellery

Ethical issues

Bien Rings

48 The Jeweller October 2010

Proof being a key word (linked as it is to transparency) when it comes to the question of ethical diamonds – a topic that is never out of the press, be it business or consumer. But are consumers really so concerned about where their diamonds are coming from? Opinion is divided about this… but only just. “It’s a massive issue, but

This image and ring below: Cox & Power

Hearts on Fire

Fancy colour diamonds – while scarily expensive in larger sizes – are encouraging women to buy jewellery for themselves. I don’t think they are half as concerned as we think they are,” says Johnson. “and I’m upset by this. Research has shown that most consumer concerns are based on price alone and this is not conducive to sales of an ethical provenance.” “Unfortunately we rarely get enquiries about a diamond’s origin, as often people are more involved with the thought of the finished product or a stone’s certificated properties,” confirms Warrender. “At W&W we are committed to an ethical product but acknowledge the limitations we operate Dennis & Lavery

50 The Jeweller October 2010

within. We try to set ourselves ethical goals and love the challenge of achieving them,” he adds. Christian Hallot, global brand ambassador at H.Stern, hits one nail on the head when he says that most customers of traditional jewellery companies wouldn’t ask about the origin of a stone because they would automatically assume that the retailer has taken care of such sensitive issues. “They are confident about our trading and they already know that we are following the rules of the Kimberley Process,” he explains. However, media coverage has made a growing number of consumers aware of such issues as ‘blood diamonds’, so it is vital that retailers and their staff are well-prepared to answer questions openly and honestly if and when they do come. And for some, they definitely do come. “Asian clients tend to be superstitious; we often find that they are very concerned about the sourcing of the product, especially when it represents the beginning of a new life,” says Santilal of Jeram Jewellers. It might also be argued that the onus is not on the public to question the origins of diamonds, but on the trade which must ensure that the only ones available to

buy are ethically sourced… but that’s a topic for another feature. “The brand diamond has been around for two thousand years and has had its ups and downs in terms of appeal, availability and reputation,” says Johnson. “But it’s a unique product and it has endured. I don’t see any drop in the ability for consumers to I enjoy diamonds.”

Calleija

Supplier Contacts 5c Jewelry: +32 3 231 04 53 Bien Rings: 01707 255 000 Chalfen: 020 7405 4062 Clogau: 01745 536176 Cox & Power: 020 7935 3530 CW Sellors: 01335 346561 David Marshall: 020 7269 9944 Dennis & Lavery: 0800 689 9048 Domino: 0121 236 4772 Gemex: 020 7242 1080 Hearts on Fire: www.heartsonfire.com Jacobs Jewellery: 020 7242 8524 Krochmal & Lieber: +32 3 233 21 69 MasterCut: 01788 540250 Paul Spurgeon: 01223 891181 Stephen Webster: 0845 539 1800 Yves Frey Diamonds: 020 7242 5511

The Voice of the Industry 51

| BJA Diamond Opinion

Talking Diamonds Does where you work in the supply chain have an effect on your perspective? Mary Brittain spoke to representatives of six very different diamond-centric businesses to find out. ne of the great strengths of the British Jewellers’ Association is its diversity. Its member companies are a microcosm of the industry it serves, so it wasn’t hard to find a cross section of people all of whom work with diamonds – but in different ways. I spoke to a dealer, a mounter, a setter, a designer-maker, a manufacturer and a retailer and their answers to the same four questions offer a snapshot of their working lives and experiences. I asked them:

Q1. What are the most significant changes you have seen in the diamond industry over recent years? Q2. What do you perceive to be the greatest threat to the industry at present? Q3. Conversely, what in your opinion is the greatest opportunity? Q4. What is your favourite diamond cut?

The Dealer Alex Bassalian is a partner in the London diamond dealing business, Bass Premier with associated offices in India and Israel. Alex, who is member of the BJA’s National Committee and of the London Diamond Bourse, studied computing and electronics before being drawn into the family business where he has worked successfully for nearly 30 years.

Q1. It has changed enormously. There used to be many one-man companies dealing in diamonds, but it is difficult for them now to survive. In the old days things were very unsophisticated, with small packets of diamonds being exchanged with a handshake. It’s different now, everything is highly sophisticated and computer-based. Q2. The biggest threat is profitability. Profit margins have really suffered recently and are still suffering. There is undoubtedly still a big demand for diamonds, especially in the UK, and this has been relatively unaffected by the recession, but despite the demand the actual margins are small and that makes life difficult. Security is another real issue in so far as anyone who has sales people on the road must be worried about them. Q3. The UK market is still expanding. Tastes are also changing and people seem to be wanting bigger diamonds, which is also good. The promotion of platinum jewellery has really helped the diamond market, people are going for better quality and showing better taste. Q4. My ultimate diamond would be pear shaped and would weigh three to four carats. Anything ‘D’ colour will do.

52 The Jeweller October 2010

The Mounter Ian Hall’s career began in 1983 as an apprentice to a firm near Birmingham. Various diamond mounting and new product development jobs in The Jewellery Quarter followed, before he set up his own business, ‘Lasting Impressions’ in 1999. From here he offers his award-winning diamond mounting skills (in March he won two ‘Senior’ Awards in the Goldsmiths’ annual Craft and Design Awards in London) to the trade and directly to the public. Q1. There have been huge changes in technology with laser welding, rapid prototyping and CAD systems making a real difference to how diamond jewellery is manufactured. Although CAD isn’t an answer to everything it is important to embrace new technology which sometimes helps keep production costs down. Another frightening change is diamond treatments such as HPHT, fracture filling, irradiation and laser drilling which cannot always be detected without expensive specialist equipment. Q2. Imports from the Far East are a threat as some customers are simply looking at price points not quality. We hand-select our diamonds and look at them with an experienced eye to ensure our customers are getting the best for their budget and can see before they buy. Although you can buy certificated stones on line, this is only an indication of the stone’s quality. It may look respectable on paper but visually be not so good. I think some online/TV companies are selling diamonds too cheaply and are devaluing the whole business. Q3. I can’t compete with imported goods in terms of price, so for me the greatest opportunity is the ability to discuss my customers’ requirements face-to-face. I try to encourage them to get involved throughout the creative process. I make my products unique with a better final finish on the metal so they stand out from the crowd. Q4. It would have to be something classic, perhaps a square emerald cut, 2 or 3 carats with VVS1 clarity, or better, excellent make, colourless and certified natural of course!

BJA Diamond Opinion | The Setter John Farley, who describes himself as ‘always being good with his hands’ came into the jewellery industry on leaving school in 1986 and learnt diamond setting at the bench. He set up his own business gemsetter.co.uk in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter in 1997 and currently offers an expert setting service to a number of big name diamond jewellery producers and for retailers both in Birmingham and throughout the UK. Q1. Perhaps the biggest change is that mass production has gone abroad. This has done me a favour because it means I’m now back to setting bespoke jewellery – the sort of large pieces I trained to set. These days I will probably set one significant piece a day rather than 200 lesser pieces all the same. I’m also being asked to set larger better quality stones. New technology has actually made my job easier because pieces that have been made using rapid prototyping are very exact which is important for setting and isn’t always the case if the piece has been made by a less-than top end mounter. The tools

The Designer Maker Andrew Geoghegan is a celebrated designermaker with a passion for diamonds. A past winner of the Lonmin Design Innovation Award, he has also been short-listed twice for the title ‘UK Designer of the Year’. He has been in business for 14 years selling mainly to retailers. Originally a tableware designer, he says he loves, ‘the microengineering aspect’ of stone setting. He also has the dubious distinction of once managing to flick a diamond through an open window, never to be seen again, when taking a short-course in diamond grading at the GIA in London! Q1. It has undoubtedly changed in quite a few ways. Firstly, there are a lot more imported goods coming into the UK especially from Hong Kong and Thailand and these are available at a far keener price point than I am ever going to be able to produce. For many of the public, their mindset at the moment is extremely price conscious and customers have a choice

available for me to use have also moved on, not always for the better, but I have just bought a new pendant drill which is far more precise and accurate with better speed control. Q2. This is literally a hands-on job so the biggest threat to me is a broken arm! Seriously though, things have been really difficult and it has been a hard, lean time but I am optimistic the industry will boom again. Some companies are now using technology to set diamonds, which I suppose is a threat, but it is very expensive and limited in its application so I think it will be sometime before it replaces what I do.

I can’t compete in terms of price so I must emphasise to people that exquisite design comes at a premium. Someone was joking with me the other day that at 40 I am probably the youngest diamond setter in the trade, which is good for me but not for the trade. The schools of

between relatively ‘expensive’ jewellery which is handmade by a designer or mass produced pieces. I can’t compete in terms of price so I must offer something which is immaculately made and emphasise to people that exquisite design comes at a premium. Another change is the huge increase in jewellery e-commerce sites all selling similar things and all slashing their prices. Q2. I think it is concerning that certain sites, which shall remain nameless, are now selling diamonds at almost trade prices. They may be offering what they term ‘brilliant’ and ‘incredible’ prices but they are in danger of

jewellery aren’t bringing people through and the skill base is really shrinking which must be a threat. Q3. The biggest opportunity for me is that I am one of a dying breed so hopefully my own personal skills will continue to be in demand for British companies making the sort of pieces that demand really top class diamond setting. I think there is also an opportunity for young people to train to take my place. Q4. Working with diamonds everyday I don’t really desire to own them but if I were to treat myself it would be something relatively small and perfect, say a 1ct round D flawless, either white or blue.

devaluing the very products they are selling. Buying an engagement ring is the most emotive of purchases and should not be reduced simply to cost. Q3. We can’t change what other companies are doing but one of the responses must be to provide absolutely flawless customer service. We need to remind the consumer that buying jewellery is not just about price but more about the integrity of the retailer/ designer and the quality of the product. Enthused and educated by the expertise of the retailer, the consumer should feel like they are entering into a lifelong relationship. The message is that whereas the internet is an incredible resource, the benefits of the face-to-face buying process with experts is invaluable. Q4. It has to be an Asscher cut which for me epitomises the art deco period. This cut has an understated elegance. It’s amazing how with just few facets it creates a Tardislike depth, which makes the stones appear far deeper than they actually are.

The Voice of the Industry 53

| BJA Diamond Opinion and that is having a knock on effect. In the global diamond market many of the smaller businesses have undoubtedly gone, and there are less players in the industry. If you don’t add value you won’t survive.

The Manufacturer Roger Chamberlain is managing director of the diamond jewellery producer, Sharman D Neill. Winners of the ‘Platinum Bridal Collection’ in 2010 and ‘Jewellery Supplier of the Year’ in 2007 in the UK jewellery Awards, the company has an excellent reputation for the design and quality of its products and for its unique ‘Diamond by Appointment’ website. The latter opens the door to many additional designs and provides instant stock information including features, benefits and delivery timescales. Q1. The advent of the Internet has had a huge impact and has created more vertical integration in the supply chain than in the past. There are now fewer stages for the diamond to pass through from the site holder to the end consumer. The structure of the industry has changed too with different product sectors performing differently. The engagement ring and the bridal market has held up well during the recession, because it is perceived as a necessity, whereas diamond jewellery has

The Retailer Eric Smith is a jewellery designer, manufacturer and retailer. A holder of the prestigious, global, De Beers ‘Diamonds International Award’, Eric produces high-quality diamond designs for retailers throughout the UK and for clientele in his own well-established shop in Glasgow. He and his wife, Yvonne, travel the world to bring high quality stones, pearls and outstanding diamonds from their source to Scotland, with many cuts being exclusive to their company. Q1. I have been very fortunate in my career in so far as in my youth I established great connections with De Beers and the Diamond Trading Company during their heyday in London and worked very closely with them in promoting my products. The DTC team created some wonderful marketing schemes which really fired consumers’ enthusiasm for diamonds. When they decided to pull out of the UK it was like watching a balloon deflate. I was OK because I’d learnt so much about marketing from them and continued to

54 The Jeweller October 2010

been affected to a greater extent. The average sale price has declined as a result of the recession and there is less profit to be made the whole way down the supply chain. This hasn’t been helped by high gold and platinum prices which have made all diamond jewellery more expensive and have helped drive consumers to a growing silver market where price points can be maintained. Q2. I don’t perceive there to be any major threat because people have always bought and will continue to buy diamonds. That said I think there is a certain lack of confidence in the economy in general and this means that businesses, at all levels of the supply chain, are more reluctant to invest in stock

Q3. People will always buy quality and this is a great plus from our point of view. As I see it our biggest opportunity is to continue creating unique designs that sell and which create an enduring passion in those who buy them. We’re a small company and we tend to shoot above our weight using technology to transact business, adding real value with a low overhead contribution. Our ‘Diamond by Appointment’ website gives retailers, who invest in a good representation of our stock, the ability to leverage our own comprehensive stockholding. This provides a really efficient partnership for us all to sell more. Q4. The first time I saw a parcel of around 100 carats of polished round brilliant cut diamonds I was smitten. That’s what got me into the trade. Mounted in a piece of jewellery the radiant cut is my favourite – aesthetically they just do something for me.

support my stockists with photography and so on to keep generating interest. However their withdrawal from the UK brought about great changes and has adversely affected smaller retailers who are not used to promoting their own jewellery. Another change has undoubtedly been the Internet. Consumers have access to a vast portfolio of information about diamonds but not everyone understands what they are reading. This means that suppliers and retailers need to work harder to educate their customers and makes diamond marketing a much more precise art. Q2. I’m not sure I believe there is a threat. Conflict diamonds is undoubtedly a serious topic but, in my opinion, the debate raised has been a good thing. It has made the industry more transparent and has spread profits more fairly along the supply chain. Q3. In a shaky financial world people are coming to realise that certain things are forever and a diamond is one of those things. Financial investments aren’t performing and people see good stones as a safe haven for

their money. Coloured diamonds have really escalated in value and I believe that there will be good sales to be had before the hike in VAT next year. Q4. It has to be a cushion cut. It’s the stone in my wife’s engagement ring and it has all the radiance and brilliance of a brilliant cut but a greater subtlety of shape. I’ll stick to white, E or F colour and a good clarity, but it must be beautifully cut; that’s what I does it for me.

BJA Profile |

The Voice of the Industry 55

| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

w i t h

F e l l o w s

S o n s

Antique JEWELLERY Worth its salt… Jo Young takes a brief look at the history of salt and the often extravagant silverware that has been created over the centuries to house this most precious of flavours. s condiments go, there have been few that have elicited quite such passion, excitement and fervour as salt. Even today’s consumer society, when we in Britain can get our hands on just about any consumable we fancy at an affordable price, salt remains an important and controversial foodstuff. Today, the presence (or more specifically, the quantity) of salt in our food is still a talking point, but for rather different reasons than in the past. Indeed, it is a major health issue: given the luxury of choice, we are all now urged to eat much less salt than we have been tending to guzzle down in the shape of pre-prepared, packaged, junk and snack foods. This modern take on salt consumption is, perhaps, somewhat ironic given that salt at the dinner table was at one time a mark of wealth, status and social standing, as we shall see.

Salt in the beginning Salt became entwined with status for the simple reason that – like most prized goods – it was both vital and hard to come by for much of history. From as early as the Bronze Age, the use of salt as a preservative helped to change human civilisation and altered how people lived. It was the discovery of salt’s preservative qualities that released people from their dependence on purely fresh seasonal foodstuffs, and enabled them to travel greater distances than they had previously. Because of its rarity, salt became a highly valuable trade item, which led to the development of what became known as salt roads or salt routes, such as the Via Salaria along the Adriatic coast in Italy, and the 100km long Old Salt Route, a medieval road through Germany. As well as being of high value to a number of ancient civilisations, including the Chinese

and Greeks, salt was precious to the Roman Empire; the roads carried salt hundreds of miles, in caravans of tens of thousands of camels, bearing the salt into marketplaces where it was often exchanged, in a particularly morally dubious trade, for slaves. Timbuktu in Mali, for example, was the site of a particularly huge salt and slave market. Naturally enough, this lucrative and vital business of moving salt around the globe helped to dictate the geography of modern city development: the location and the growth of many a major modern city was heavily influenced by the salt trade. In the UK, for example, Liverpool first came into being as a port for exporting the product of nearby Cheshire’s salt mines. It controlled the status and financial health of entire cities and empires, too. Poland, for example, was a vast, prosperous nation thanks to its salt mines, until it was superceded by the introduction of sea salt by neighbouring Germany.

Salt containers Should we be in any way sceptical of the important role salt has played, a quick glance at the artefacts made to house this precious commodity (in some cases, the sheer value and opulence of them) would put paid to any doubt. The rarity and importance of salt to past generations has meant that salt receptacles have tended to be larger and far more elaborate than simple function would dictate. Salts (a common term) were elaborate, highly decorative and made with great skill and craftsmanship, and became one of the most importance pieces of English plate.

Surviving salts The earliest pieces to survive in any notable quantity are the ‘covered’ salts of the late 15th Century, such as the Huntsman Salt, which belongs to All Souls College in Oxford. The Huntsman Salt is a rare piece, showing

Salts, Sterling Silver & Glass. Matthew Boulton & John Fothergill, Birmingham, 1777.

56 The Jeweller October 2010

All black and white images in this article courtesy of the Birmingham Assay Office

Antique Jewellery | about during the 17th Century, and it is really from this date onwards that the popularity of salts began their steady decline. They were still very much in production and use until the nineteenth century (often as revivals of earlier designs) but as salt became readily available and dining habits changed, the salt as it was once known died out, to become collectable only as an antique object.

Cellini Salt

Above images: two views of the famous Cellini Salt cellar

a standing figure with the salt receptacle itself – a rock crystal box with a hinged lid – balanced on top of his head. With a painted face and hands and standing at around 17 inches tall, it is a truly delightful piece of functional sculpture. Similarly, the beautifullynamed Monkey Salt, made in around 1500, is another surviving covered salt held at New College, Oxford. The ‘covered’ type of salt cellar remained popular right through the late 1400s, but by the middle of the sixteenth century, new types of salts were coming into fashion. The Renaissance saw the introduction of the new ‘pedestal’ or ‘drum’ type of salt. This tended to be embossed, and the cover surmounted by a standing, classical figure. These are extremely rare and don’t come to market often, and tend to vary in height from just a couple of inches to closer to 20 inches. There are a number of salts from this period worthy of mention, among them

the Vyvyan Salt, made in 1592 and held by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the unusual Gibbon Salt (1576), which takes the shape of a Classical temple. (As you may be realising, these items were not meant to be subtle). Bell Salts are perhaps especially interesting, as the ‘bell’ is really the only type of salt cellar design to be claimed as exclusively English. They first appeared in number in the last 1500s, and appear to have died out by 1620. Often plain, they are also found to be decorated with the strapwork, fruit and foliage typical of the period. Bell salts are usually found with three sections, two made for salt and a small caster above; the upper section has to be removed to get to the salt beneath. These elaborate ‘great’ salts were not always convenient, as you can imagine, and in later years, smaller receptacles – those designed to be placed beside the trencher or platter – became popular. These came

Without doubt one of the most celebrated salts ever is actually made of gold. The Cellini Salt – otherwise known as Saliera, from the Italian for salt – was made in 1543 for the French monarch, Frances I. Created by the Italian artist Benvenuto Cellini, it is a particularly fine example of elaborate, high Renaissance table sculpture. Made from enamelled gold, the piece depicts a man and a woman facing one another. The female figures is Ceres, a goddess of the earth, while the man is Neptune, and is of course representative of the sea. In a way, these allegorical figures are ideally suited to a salt cellar, as they symbolise the ‘meeting’ of sea and earth. Next to the male figure, there is a small bowl for holding the salt, which is made from gold, ivory and enamel. The Cellini salt cellar is highly prized among collectors for a couple of reasons. Firstly, the great age of the sculpture gives it value: it was produced during the Renaissance, a particularly creative and important period in art history. Secondly, frankly, the terribly high camp spectacular nature of the piece and the quality of workmanship involved mean that it is rated as a masterpiece of craftsmanship.

Salts, Sterling Silver & Glass. Matthew Boulton & John Fothergill, Birmingham, 1779.

The Voice of the Industry 57

| Antique Jewellery The story of the piece, as an interesting aside, does not end there. This 26cm salt cellar – having passed through a number of royal households – found its way to Austria, where it has lived in the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna since the mid-1800s. Valued in the tens of millions, the Cellini salt cellar was actually stolen from the museum in 2003. It was the biggest art theft in Austrian history, and that same year, a reward of €70,000 was offered by the museum for its safe return. The sculpture did, in fact, resurface; somewhat bizarrely, it was found buried in a lead container in the woods near Vienna (I promise I’m not making this up) in early 2006 and the thief handed a hefty custodial sentence.

Common people Interestingly, from the Middle Ages onwards, where you were seated in relation to the salt became worthy of mention, and the phrase ‘below the salt’ entered the language (along with other phrases still in use, such as being ‘worth your salt’, taking something ‘with a pinch of salt’ and being regarded as the ‘salt of the earth’). Though it sounds ridiculous to modern ears, like the similarly historically rooted phrase ‘beyond the pale’, the phrase ‘below the salt’ remains part of the lexicon today, clearly demonstrating through language the social importance of salt.

Salts, Sterling Silver & Glass. Joseph Willmore, John Yapp & John Woodward, Birmingham 1838

In the Middle Ages, nobility sat at ‘high table’ while their servants ate from lower trestle tables. The so-called ‘great’ salts were generally placed at the centre of the long, ‘high’ table, where only those of noble status were able to access it. To be seated below the salt as a diner meant that you were regarded as being of sufficiently inferior status to be seated at the less desirable end of the room, out of reach of this precious flavouring – the phrase, therefore, is used to describe someone thought to be a little bit, well, common. This phrase was already in use

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in the sixteenth century, as this Ben Jonson quotation illustrates: “His fashion is not to take knowledg of him that is beneath him in Cloaths. He never drinks below the salt.”

Collectability In today’s antiques market, salts are highly collectable pieces, not least because they are very usable items and are still (just about) relevant to today’s lifestyle. Barring the most ridiculously elaborate ‘show off’ pieces (salts that were the size of small bathtubs, in other words), these are antiques that are bought to be used and not stuck on a mantelpiece gathering dust. For that reason – and in the case of the earliest

Salts, Sterling Silver and Glass. Matthew Boulton & John Fothergill, Birmingham, 1773.

examples, for their rarity and silver value – they command often dizzying prices, but perhaps what is most exciting about salts from a collector’s point of view is their pure historical significance: they are the physical embodiment of a past age, when things such as salt and spices helped, in a very real I sense, to shape our world.

Whittaker’s World Ever onwards and upwards? As gold continues its seemingly inexorable upwards rise, one jeweller at the Loughborough Conference just laughed when I asked the question: “What is your percentage drop in gold sales?” “Gold sales?”, he said, “What gold sales?”. With the general public rushing to sell their gold, it’s a hard task to sell it (and make a profit) in the same market. Retailers therefore have to look for alternatives – small collectable pieces, items by well known makers (Paul Storr, Hester Bateman etc), and items with an unusual provenance (Ireland, small Scottish town hallmarks) seem to be fetching high prices. The attraction of quality jewellery shows there is plenty of money at the top of the market – our own experience shows that to sell into this market however you need to have the staff who can talk confidently and with authority to these sort of clients. But a shortage of good quality, ‘fresh to the market’, pre-owned jewellery for sale is pushing prices upwards. The secondary watch market continues to attract both trade and private buyers alike – the concept of selling a watch is already done for us by the major names who commit a fortune to promoting their brands. If you have the knowledge, this can be a highly productive market but be aware of the number of fakes and watches with significant alterations. One thing is for certain – the price of gold is going to continue to change all of our businesses in the near future. When it comes down, the traditional retail jewellery market may return, but in the meanwhile we are all having to look for alternatives revenue streams. Stephen Whittaker is MD of Fellows, auctioneers based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter.

Fellows (Est. 1876)

Forthcoming Auctions

• Secondhand Jewellery & Watches – Thursday 21st October, Thursday 4th and 18th November • Antique & Modern Jewellery – Thursday 14th October, Thursday 25th November • Silver, Plated Ware, Coins & Medals – Monday 29th November • Costume & Silver Jewellery & Novelties – Monday 29th November • Wrist & Pocket Watches – Monday 18th October A catalogue is available at www.fellows.co.uk or by post. Online bidding is available at www.the-saleroom.com/fellows For further information please call Heather Bailey on 0121 212 2131.

The Voice of the Industry 59

The wisdom of Business Interruption Insurance Don’t let a calamity turn into a catastrophe. Michael Ferraro, managing director of T.H. March explains how the correct cover can limit the loss caused by serious damage. t is a sad fact that a high proportion of companies without Business Interruption Insurance and are affected by major damage, can go out of business within 12 months. Business depends on cash flow. A major fire or flood will destroy or severely diminish cash flow until the business can recover. Recovery is not just about repairing the damage – it is also about recovering turnover. That recovery may have to cope with competitors who have taken advantage of your absence from the market to steal your customers who may be unable to wait for you to reopen. You may also find that some suppliers have switched allegiance. Business Interruption Insurance replaces the gross profit for the period that trading is suspended by an insured risk, which includes the recovery-of-customers phase. It is subject to a ‘maximum indemnity limit’, the maximum period of interruption for which the policy will provide cover. While cover with a short maximum indemnity period is better than none, many businesses select dangerously short maximum indemnity periods so it would be wise to consider some of the factors which may be involved in recovery from damage.

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Many of the following steps can be heavily delayed if damage is widespread, for instance after a major flood or storm, because builders, architects, plumbers etc. become over stretched: • Initially it may not be possible to access the site until it or nearby properties are rendered safe • Liaison periods with insurers, architects and builders to assess the damage • Decision to repair, demolish and rebuild, or move permanently Demolition, if necessary, will involve: • Tenders and acceptance • Delays before work begins • Demolition Moving permanently will involve: • Search • Negotiation • Legal delays, possible change of use • Fitting out Major repairs or rebuilding may involve: • Architects and design work • Planning permission • Tenders Construction period and delays: • Before work begins • In finding specialist contractors e.g. for

listed buildings, special features or equipment • Local regulations limiting deliveries of materials • Lack of on site storage • A need for additional works to meet new building regulations • Shop fitting or fitting out of manufacturing facilities, availability of equipment Post construction recovery: • Build up of stock, especially if antique or unique • Recovery of customers Assessing accurately the maximum indemnity period needed is a highly skilled process that usually involves local architects or surveyors. However, a few moments’ thought about some of the above stages shows that selecting just the minimum 12 month period is very unlikely to be adequate in the event of major damage. Some locations, for example in pedestrian access areas, narrow streets, or worst of all, shopping centres, can significantly extend the period. In some cases, shopping centres have taken up to four years to reopen fully after major damage. A common response by businessmen considering longer indemnity periods is that they would move to temporary accommodation if disaster struck. That can be an excellent solution, and in the right circumstances one that insurers will encourage, but can you be sure in advance that suitable accommodation will be available if and when you need it? How will trading from a less prestigious location affect your turnover? You may have to sign a lease for more than 12 months on less attractive terms than you currently pay. Moving may be sensible, but if the location is poor the turnover may continue to be reduced beyond the maximum indemnity period. Extending your maximum indemnity period is likely to be less expensive than you might think. Doubling the indemnity period will not double the premium since the majority of interruptions will be of shorter duration. Business Interruption Insurance cover may seem extremely complex, but it is well worth discussing with your broker. It may save your business. T H March & Co Limited is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority

Regular |

Notebook

century’s greatest costume jewellery designers (as well as some of the lesser known creators) and some of the celebrated wearers, Miller looks at the history of jewellery made from more humble materials. A beautiful and inspirational book.

Books

Fashion for Jewels by Carol Woolton (£25, Prestel) As the jewellery editor of British Vogue, Carol Woolton is as well-placed as anyone to observe the inextricable link between the worlds of fashion and jewellery. This lovely book explores how the trends in costume over the last century have become increasingly complemented by the styles of the chokers, pendants, earrings, bangles and beads created by the designers. From the demure twinset and pearls combo to ‘power pearls’ and from florals to fantasy, every conceivable jewellery/ fashion trend is explored. There are also profiles of designers and icons – from Coco Chanel to Princess Diana – as well as big jewellery brands.

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

The Fancy Color Diamond Book, by Eden Rachminov (US $225 + shipping, Diamond Odyssey) www.diamondodyssey.org As its price might suggest, this is no ordinary reference book – more a work of art, as well as a labour of love. And for anyone working with fancy colour diamonds it must surely be required reading. The author, the MD of Rachminov Diamonds 1891 and a third generation diamond trader calls it a “reference tool and guide for anyone with questions about fancy color diamonds, that begin with why, where, when, which and how”. Like: why are some diamonds coloured? Why is a fancy red the most desired colour? Why are brown

patches in a green diamond okay? Lavishly illustrated (with diagrams, drawings, tables and photographs) the book covers everything from how diamonds are made, to explaining cuts and shapes, to notes and illustrations on famous diamonds, from famous houses worn by famous women. It even comes with a handy, quick reference ‘cheat sheet’. Perfect. Costume Jewellery, by Judith Miller (£25, Octopus) The co-founder of the ubiquitous Miller’s Antiques Prices Guides, Judith Miller, loves costume jewellery precisely because ‘it doesn’t take itself too seriously’. But aside from the sense of humour often displayed, the sheer dazzling exuberance is reason enough to admire the pieces shown in this luscious book. Beside profiles on the 20th

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

Sales & Exhibitions

October 8th-11th: Jewelers International showcase (JIS), Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami, USA The largest independent jewellery trade show in the Americas. www.jisshow.com

October 1st-31st December: Treasures of Napoleon. Antwerp Diamond Museum This exhibition shows how Le Petit Corporel used decorative arts and diamond jewels to display his power and command loyalty. Email: info@diamant.provant.be

23rd-24th: Art Shopping, Carrousel de Louvre, Paris, France Antique jewellery, antique clocks, decorative arts, art glass and avante garde works of art are among the exhibits of this fair. www.salon-artshopping.com November 25th-28th: China International, Shanghai Exhibition Centre Gold, jewellery and gem fair. http://www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/Fairs/ Detail.html?id=978 26th-28th: Kara, Place Vendome, Paris Contemporary jewellery fair for trade and consumer. www.kara-expo.com

15th-17th: Islington Art & Design Fair, Candid Arts Trust Galleries, Angel Islington A chance to view and buy the work of contemporary jewellery, fashion and textile designers. Email: info@candidarts.com

contemporary jewellery designers exhibiting at this fair which has been running since 1981. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com 20th-21st: Design Show, St Georges Hall, Liverpool. Part of the city’s second annual Design Festival, the show will highlight work by around 60 creators of jewellery, accessories, fashion and decorative art. The earrings pictured below are by Sian Hughes. www.liverpooldesignfestival.com

15th-17th: Aura 2010, Grays Court, York Contemporary Jewellery Exhibition of UK designers such as Pamela Dickinson and Penny Davis plus guest jewellers from Amsterdam. www.auraexhibition.co.uk November 6th November - 8th January 2011, Dazzle, National Theatre foyer, London Recent graduates will be among the 80+

26th-28th: Desire, Guildhall, Winchester Mixed media jewellery and silversmithing show from new as well as established talent. www.desirefair.com

The Voice of the Industry 61

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

Grey Market Replacements and the Insurer The day-to-day business of an IRV includes post loss assessments – often for branded items like wristwatches. This issue, IRV Forum member Geoff Whitefield MIRV warns readers of some of the potential problems that can arise when the replacement is not obtained from an official agent. n a day of preferred supplier networks and replacement schemes, it may be surprising to learn that there are insurers and adjusters out there who still consider, and offer, cash settlements. It’s especially surprising given that the recent economic climate has caused many to look at ways of tightening their purse strings further.

When an item is lost of stolen, most policyholders will expect to be asked for evidence of ownership, proofs of purchase and/or value when claiming for these items. They are also likely to be asked to submit a quote for the replacement article. With all this rummaging around and time needed to sort through old paperwork and photographs

it is understandable why, in a busy world, people often resort to the internet. This is not always an easy option. Most of the official luxury brand sites, particularly for watches, do not publish prices. Policyholders (and the insurance companies’ claims handlers/adjusters) may therefore pass these over in favour of grey market dealer sites or those hosted overseas, unaware that they aren’t official agents. These grey market sites state price comparisons and effectively supply by mail order. They also show substantial discounts off the

Yet by being advertised as ‘unworn’ – a somewhat misleading term – it gives the potential purchaser the impression the article is new. official recommended retail prices usually set by the brand and far in excess of those offered by the average store. (I often wonder how much of this trade goes undetected by Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs!) Much of the product is discontinued, can have ‘after market attributes’ and in some instances is even pre-owned. Yet by being advertised as ‘unworn’ – a somewhat misleading term – it gives the potential buyer the impression that the article is new. In most scenarios the genuinely new product has already been ‘retailed’ once by the official agent, leaving the date blank on the guarantee. The purchaser does not realise that what they are actually buying is technically a second hand item with a

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warranty that is no longer valid as far as the brand is concerned. Some even state this on their official website – had the purchaser stayed on it long enough to find out. This could end up costing money to put right if there is a fault and cancel out the perceived saving of the original discounted cost. Many of these sites offer the item with their own back-up warranty; but would the policyholder want the hassle of sending it back if he had doubts about ever seeing it again? Insurers will validate the claim behind the scenes, checking the cost to them from the official agent – allowing for the discount available and excess if applicable. Even if the policy is on a ‘new-for-old’ basis (a term often misunderstood by the layperson), the insurer or adjuster may offer just cash, even if it has not been requested, if they see the grey market/internet quote is the most cost effective option. This leaves the policyholder with the task of purchasing the replacement from the grey markey/internet supplier. If the retailer is to stand a chance of protecting its brand presence and future sales, early dialogue and prompt follow-up can help defend why a more modest discount may in fact be the better value for money in the long term, instead of being left wondering why Mrs. X (or her insurer) never came back to replace the item originally sold to her a few years back.

Loughborough Conference 2010 his year’s Loughborough Conference took place just two weeks ago. It was highly encouraging to receive a great many more requests from people who wished to attend than last year – an excellent outcome bearing in mind the current economic climate. The programme of workshops and main presentations (covering such topics as valuation, gemmological and general traderelated issues), boasted such renowned speakers as Eric Emms, Alan Hodgkinson, David Callaghan and Alastair Dickenson – to name but a few. These, together with discussion sessions, plus of course, a chance to catch up with old friends and make new ones, proved once again that we are

Expert advice on a Victorian pendant n the August/September issue of The Jeweller, the IRV pages included some interesting correspondence involving a Victorian pendant. Further to the advice that the original enquirer received, a subsequent letter to the editor has thrown some additional light on the beautiful piece in question. Independent jewellery consultant John Benjamin FGA, DGA, previously international director of jewellery at Phillips Fine Art Auctioneers, offers the benefit of his many years’ experience. “The micro mosaic and 18 carat gold pendant discussed at some length in the last issue, is typical of Italian design in the 1850s and 1860s demonstrating an attractive and colourful commercial subject (birds amidst flowers) and good technical virtuosity. The most important feature is that none of the mosaic appears to be missing

(although the repairs on the back certainly will reduce value). Luigi Gallandt of the Piazza di Spagna was one of several establishments specialising in ‘archaeological’ jewellery who were active in Rome in the middle part of the 19th century. Probably their most accomplished and successful mosaicist was Antonio Roccheggiani who won a Second Class medal

providing valuers and jewellers with an event which they really appreciate and need. November’s IRV pages of The Jeweller will carry a full report on the Conference This year’s Conference was our 22nd (the 20th that has been held at Loughborough) and we’re confident that those who attended were buzzing with all that they gained from taking part. It really was an event not to be missed. Plans for 2011’s Conference are already well under way. The dates have now been fixed – Saturday 24th to Monday 26th September – and the event will be at the same venue – Loughborough University, Leicestershire – so make a note now.

at the Paris 1855 Exhibition. A fantastic black and white mosaic fringe necklace by Rocceggiani forms part of the Hull Grundy bequest at the British Museum. Micro mosaic jewellery is regularly sold by specialist dealers in Grays Antique Market, Davies Street, London while several shops in the Burlington Arcade also stock good examples. It is therefore not uncommon, although late 18th/early 19th century subjects are far more expensive than the mid to late 19th century examples due to the considerably smaller fragments of tesserae used. I would be very happy to assist any NAG colleague who requires help and advice with the identification and potential value of antique and secondhand jewellery. Unlike a dealer I act purely in an advisory capacity. I can be reached at www.johnbenjamin.co.uk or telephone 01296 615522.” John Benjamin, John C Benjamin Limited P O Box 7, Aylesbury, Bucks HP22 5WB

The Voice of the Industry 63

L ATE ST

N E W S

F R O M

TH E

E D U C ATI O N

D E PA RTM E NT However, for those who want to take just one of these modules, an individual topic can be studied over six weeks. Each module will conclude with an assessment of the taught material. The six modules to choose from consist of the following topics, essential for those seeking to improve their business skills: • Market Awareness The retail market environment, market strategy, positioning, business development process, competitive analysis.

Eleanor Pyke, Mark Adlestone, Victoria Wingate, Michael Hoare and Patrick Fuller at the launch of JET Pro

IJL hosts successful launch of JET Pro his year’s International Jewellery London saw the launch of the NAG’s new management-focused course: JET Pro. The NAG’s stand offered a champagne launch for visitors to celebrate the continuance of sixty-five years of high quality, industry recognised education. Victoria Wingate, education manager described the launch as “Fabulous! JET Pro has been extremely well received and we are very excited about it.” Eleanor Pyke, the NAG’s education chairman, who was also present, described the launch as “a triumph”, before going on to discuss the benefits of the new program: “JET Pro provides NAG members and their staff with the perfect vehicle for personal development programmes. It’s a really good, practical and cost-effective addition to the training and education portfolio currently offered by the NAG.” So what exactly is JET Pro, and how does it work? JET Pro is the NAG’s new business

64 The Jeweller October 2010

development program, aimed at those looking to expand on their knowledge of the retail jewellery industry. The program covers topics that would interest anyone looking to open their own jewellery business; make their current business more efficient and successful; as well as anyone seeking to expand their responsibilities, and take on more senior roles. Mike McGraw of Development Initiatives, who developed the course, describes it as “a modular mid-high level, distance learning course which covers all the main levers a retail jeweller needs to pull to have a sustainable and profitable business.” The modular structure means that students can either enrol on the Diploma program (all 6 modules) or enrol for specific modules individually to enhance skills in certain key areas. The entire package of modules can be completed in a year and students will then receive a Diploma at the end.

• Managing Financial Variables The key variables, making a true profit & return, cash flow management, assessing a businesses’ worth. • Customer Management Customers and their behaviour, product knowledge, selling professionally, customer service processes. • Maximising a Team’s Potential Employing the right people, performance measurement, individual’s measurement, staff communications, managing upwards. • Professional Operations Management Shop routines, merchandising & display, stock management, competitive edge. • Promoting Your Business Constructing a communications strategy, internal and external communications, internet retailing. Each module costs: NAG Members £340 + VAT, non members £455 + VAT The full diploma costs: NAG Members: £1750 + VAT, non members: £2275 + VAT For more information on JET Pro, you can visit our website: www.jewellers-online.org or contact the Education Department on 020 7613 4445 (option 1).

Education + Training |

NAG launches its first online courses at IJL “The slope-shouldered walk of the satchel-laden student, is a thing of the past. The manual is dead. We assign the tattered course folder to history. And henceforth we will all be ‘speccy’ four-eyes, hunched over computer screens. Long live the online course.” So announced CEO Michael Hoare, as the 2010 IJL saw the NAGs’ flagship courses, JET 1 & 2, turn digital. rowds had already gathered at a champagne reception to celebrate the NAG’s new business development diploma, JET Pro, and the champagne continued to flow as the education department invited visitors to see the unveiling of the new JET 1 & 2, online training environment. Students and industry leaders alike were encouraged to try out the new learning facility themselves, as a live presentation guided them through the new tool. “The launch was a great success,” said Victoria Wingate, manager of the education department. “Although these courses are online, the NAG is ensuring that all students will receive the same quality tuition, but in a way that is more suited to the way in which students want to learn. It’s just one of the ways the NAG is proving its continuing future commitment to education in the jewellery industry”.

Eddie Stanley, one of the course tutors, commented: “Increasingly tutors found participants on JET 1 & JET 2 were choosing to email rather than post their course work. The willingness of most students to work this way,” Stanley explains, “led to students receiving their marks and grades much quicker”. Not only does the new environment allow work to be distributed and collected more quickly, he notes how it also “eliminates the risk of course work being lost in the postal service, cuts down the costs for the students, and allows them a hassle- free way of submitting assignments and accessing learning materials”. “The progression from the old Distance Learning JET 1 & JET 2 to ELearning is a natural educational development that brings us into the 21st Century,” Stanley adds. “People still want to learn part-time, while they are in work, or busy with other responsibilities

Pictured with Nicholas Major and Victoria Wingate are (left) Sade Weston – first student to sign up to JET 1 online and Lyn Hanmore of Lynleys Jewellers in Eastbourne.

and it’s simply about making it easier for those people to do so.” He is keen to point out that the new system allows students “to strengthen the link with their personal tutor which in turn, allows the tutor to concentrate on their ‘coaching role’ rather than simply being an instructor.” The new service is comprised of three main areas: the personal profile, the learning area, and the resource area. Each area is structured to allow students to organise their studies and liase with tutors while also being able to access learning materials, test their knowledge and submit final assessments. In a change to previous years, all learning resources will be distributed in the learning area, and students will be able to access these at their leisure. As Stanley points out: “We will ensure we build upon the quality service of the past”. The courses will be available to study online from January 2011. For more information on JET Online, visit our website: www.jewellers-online.org or contact the Education Department on tel: 020 7613 4445 (option 1).

The Voice of the Industry 65

| Education + Training

Cake and champagne flow as the NAG celebrate 65 years of exam success he NAG offered cake and champagne to those visiting the NAG stand at IJL to celebrate sixty-five years of the quality education, and trusted support provided to retail jewellers across the UK. It was in 1945 that Mr. T. P Cuss launched the first correspondence learning courses for the jewellery industry. Sixty-five years later and enrolments for the NAG’s professional diplomas now regularly exceed 1,200 a year. In the meantime, over 27,000 education and training courses have been taken through the NAG in one form or another. In all this time, the NAG has remained one of, if not the most popular forms of gaining

affordable industry-recognised training, for staff members and business leaders alike. However, our sixty-fifth anniversary is less about looking backward, more about looking into the future. When it comes to training, our motto has not changed – we still believe that ‘service comes from knowledge’ and this means if we want to create the industry leaders of tomorrow, knowledge, education

Our training not only reflects this, but also takes into account the differences in the way in which people study and the way in which we provide training. and training is key. “Today, jewellers are contending with the internet, improved visual merchandising, higher customer expectations and an ever-changing population,” says NAG CEO Michael Hoare. “Our training not only reflects this, but also takes into account the differences in the way in which people study and the way in which we provide training. Although a celebration gives us time to reflect on what has been, it also gives us the opportunity to take stock, and move forward. After sixty-five years of providing training

66 The Jeweller October 2010

courses, we’ve not become complacent in our vision of what the industry requires. This coming year, the NAG is running the new JET Pro Business Development Diploma that focuses specifically on the up and coming talents in the industry. Not only is this new course being offered to more experienced staff members but now the flagship JET 1 & 2 courses are available online. The training

will not differ in its content and high quality tutition, but will change the way that students learn. It’s just one way in which the NAG is keeping up with current trends, providing training that is effective, up-todate, and vital for progression in the retail jewellery industry.” For more information about NAG training courses visit: www.jewellers-online.org or contact the Education Department on tel: 020 7613 4445 (option 1).

APPOINTMENTS Assistant Manager Hatton Garden We are an established fine jewellery manufacturer and retailer with an online presence. We specialise in high quality engagement, wedding and eternity rings with many designs created as bespoke pieces. A new position has arisen for an Assistant Manager to work in this small, growing Hatton Garden company. This full time position is responsible for managing online sales enquiries, client liaison, day-to-day production and stock management. You must be a confident written communicator with an experience of online and telephone communication. You must have the ability to independently put together quotes tailored to the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s requirements. You must have experience of managing computer and paper based stock systems. Accurate data entry skills are essential. You will be used to working on multiple projects in a busy sales and manufacturing environment. This is the ideal role for a highly motivated self-starter with proven management experience. We are looking for applicants who are educated to degree level or equivalent, and are highly computer literate. Although experience within the jewellery sector is an advantage, we welcome applicants who have relevant skills gained within another industry who demonstrate the motivation to work within the jewellery industry.

RECRUITMENT Are you looking to recruit staff for retail, manufacturing, design, sales, jobbing, management, admin and finance? Advertise your jewellery and watch vacancies in The Jeweller magazine Appointments section and on the Jeweller Recruitment online site (www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk) simultaneously at very competitive rates. Call Ian Francis on tel: 020 7833 5500 or email him at: ian@cube-uk.com to book your recruitment advertising in The Jeweller magazine.

Working week: Monday to Friday To apply for this role email: box103@jeweller-recruitment.co.uk with a CV and cover letter explaining how you meet the role requirements and your salary expectations. Competitive salary based on experience, plus bonus.

RENNIE&CO

Hertfordshire Horologists Ltd.

Sales Consultant We currently have a post for a full time, well presented, articulate Sales Consultant. The role will suit candidates with a proven track record of selling fine jewellery. As a specialist retailer of engagement, eternity and wedding rings within central London, applicants will be required to have an excellent knowledge of diamonds and enjoy the challenge of offering excellent customer service, within a competitive sales environment. Excellent remuneration package including bonus and commission.

Please send your CV and covering letter to: Rennie & Co Ltd, 105 Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8LY or email to: diamonds@rennieco.com

Established trade watch repair workshop requires fully trained/qualified watch technician Hertfordshire Horologists Ltd., based at Tring in Hertfordshire, are now recruiting for a Rolex or equivalent trained watch maker, with a proven record of high standards to work with a team of watchmakers in our excellent working environment. Five day week (no Saturdays), salary negotiable depending on experience. Please send your CV and covering letter to: herts.horologist@btconnect.com

D I S P L AY C A B I N E T Amber Jewellery

Business Opportunity Business opportunity with long established Winchester jewellers

Computer Systems

Owner wishing to semi/retire seeks merger or partnership. Suggestions and proposals welcome. The shop has a prominent corner position in the main shopping area of the town with multiple display windows, modern lighting and fittings. In addition there are a suite of self contained offices above the shop with a separate entrance. Suitable for workshops and admin or internet shopping base. The shop is held under a long lease at a favourable rent. Staff have been advised. Principals and serious enquiries only please.

Email: jcollinsspain@hotmail.com Phone: 0034 952 78 13 18 Fax: 0034 952 78 70 48

Diamond Dealer

VILLAMARTS LTD

The UK’s Leading Loose Diamond & Jewellery Wholesaler

We offer a complete and efficient service for all your wholesale diamond needs at the best prices. Visit www.villamarts.co.uk to find our daily updated stock list of certificated diamonds.

For a quick quote or to arrange a meeting call:

020 7417 0260 / 0261 32-34 Greville Street, London EC1N 8TB

Diamond Jewellery

Diamonds & Gemstones

Gemstones

Diamond Setters

For Sale Jewellery Studio for sale in the heart of Western Australia’s southwest. • Shows consistently strong growth every year since being established in 2002. • Stock consists of a high quality handmade range supplemented with selected suppliers. • Would suit manufacturing jeweller, husband/wife team. • Well positioned, lucrative business. • Owners looking to semi-retire. • Further information on enquiry. Contact Mary: baroque@westnet.com.au

D I S P L AY C A B I N E T Jewellery Manufacturers

Jewellery Repairs

Pearls & Gemstones

A-Line Jewellery • • • • • • • • •

Handmade jewellery All setting including channel, pavé etc. Repairs of all kinds Polishing, rhodium and black rhodium 18 carat and platinum ring mounts CAD and laser work undertaken Diamonds and coloured stones supplied Over 30 years experience Postal service

Ground Floor, 22 Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8BA Tel: 020 7405 7684 Email: info@a-linejewellery.co.uk

Pearl Restringing

AGARS

Platinum

Precious Stones, Beads and Pearls

Repair Services

Shopfitting

(est. 1946)

• The complete restringing service

to the trade for over 60 years. • Experience, quality and service

at reasonable prices. • Full insurance. All urgent repairs by return. Call David or Stephen at Agars Ltd Port Hall Mews, Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5PB Tel/fax: 01273 540330 Email: steveagar@hotmail.com

Repairs

Member of the British Jewellers’ Association

bqw rolex specialist

Is your Rolex watch braclet stretched and worn?

At BQ Watches we can make it look brand NEW

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C l e a r, u n c l u t t e r e d d e s i g n One uniform size One great value price Volume discounts available Free ad design service

Only £85 per insertion! Call Neil Oakford on 020 7833 500 or email: neil@cube-uk.com for further information and to make a booking in the Jeweller display Cabinet

| Regular

The

Last Word This month we throw a little light on Apollonius NootenBoom ll. Known to all as Apple, he is the name behind leading casting specialist Hean Studio. Personal Profile Having trained under his father, ‘an exceptionally talented man’, Apple has run the family business for 36 years. Over the years he held various positions within the BJGFF and the BJA and is the only caster accepted into the Institute of Professional Goldsmiths. He's in three livery companies: Goldsmiths, Clockmakers, and Carmen, as well as the Scottish equivalent, being a Hammerman of Glasgow. He has also invented various solutions to age old casting problems. How would you describe your personal style? Smart casual, but I do love to dress up for formal occasions, particularly livery banquets: white tie and tails, full Scottish evening wear with kilt, (I have my own registered tartan), and festooned in jewels. But at work – down-to-earth, get my hands dirty, involved in every process, idealist, and perfectionist. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Haven’t discovered that yet, but I would really love to visit Australia and go diving on the Great Barrier Reef… feed the sharks and play with the sea snakes.

If you could change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? A mandatory requirement for everyone involved in design and manufacturing to learn and get hands-on experience about all the crafts and technologies involved. Then I wouldn’t have to spend hours every day explaining to clients what they’re doing wrong and how it should have been done. Do you know the price of a pint of milk? I’ll get the butler to ask the cook.

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others. Inventive, innovative, perfectionist. Others? Loud, outrageous, annoying, probably, but there are many who also recognise my exceptional technical knowledge and skills. Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? Taken control of the company when it was much smaller. My siblings unfortunately gained control in 2000 and are an absolute nightmare.

70 The Jeweller October 2010

To what do you attribute your success? Innovation, invention, and always striving for perfection. Also, I love a challenge so during my career I have undertaken many bizarre and difficult projects. Such as the diamond set Platinum skull for Damian Hurst.

This has contributed greatly to expanding my understanding of the casting processes. But I also have a flair for properly understanding new technologies and correctly applying them to traditional processes. Tell us something not many people know about you… I had sex with a woman once… I think that proved a point. Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country) I hate shopping in the UK… but I do like to shop when abroad. If you hadn’t gone into the jewellery trade, what career would you have chosen? I originally trained as a furniture designer and cabinet maker. I’m very good at the traditional drawing board. So maybe architect. I designed the detail of the building, all the interior layouts and furniture, functions and services of the building Hean Studio works from, and I managed the entire build myself. Quick fire (no deliberating, straight off the top of your head please) • Red or white wine? Red • Football or cricket? (Team?) None – boring • Diamonds or coloured stones? Coloured stones • White or yellow metal? Yellow • TV or radio? Television • Bentley or Roller? Tut tut, a roller is something for flattening lawns. I presume you mean a Royce. Actually I have both. A 1963 Bentley S3 and a 1981 RR Corniche FHC. They have won all the rosettes for their respective classes, and I am now a concours judge for the Rolls Royce Enthusiast Club.

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