Jeweller September 2012 by Zest Europe

Jeweller the

Aug/Sept 2012

Showing Off Countdown to IJL 2012

Faking It The challenge set by synthetic diamonds

Future Trends Design directions for the year ahead

With input from the British Jewellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Association

ÂŁ7.50

The Voice of The Industry

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Jeweller

Contents & Contacts |

the

The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

A U G / S E P T

Future Trends

Three prediction houses offer their take on design directions for 2013

Show’s Promise

A preview of the events and launches at IJL next month, including the new KickStarters line-up

The Wolf at the Door

Gem-A’s Jack Ogden looks at the challenges presented by synthetic diamonds

The Height of Refinement

Communiqué

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

NAG News

Member of the Month

Education & Training

IRV Review

Show Report

BJA News

BJA Feature

Brand Profile

Legal

BJA Feature

Insurance

Ethical

Security

Antique Jewellery

Notebook

Display Cabinet

The Last Word

84 The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

Belinda Morris visits Buxton-based Capella to learn

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

about the feather in its refining cap

The National Association of Goldsmiths

Cover Image In conjunction with International Jewellery London 2nd - 5th September 2012 Earls Court 2, London wwwjewellerylondon.com

78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk BJA Marketing & PR Manager: Lindsey Straughton lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7613 4445 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian@jewellers-online.org Publishing Enquiries/ Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Mary Brittain, Miles Hoare, Mélina Leprince-Ringuet, Jack Ogden, Greg Valerio, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

Positive news on the more helpful lending institutions, creating safer neighbourhoods, investing in training through apprenticeships and the excitement that’s building for the Loughborough Conference, have all been front of Michael Hoare’s mind this month.

Engage first gear I had a period of political overdrive this month. Over two days I was firstly at a House of Commons breakfast with guest speaker Baroness Royall of Blaisdon, shadow leader of the Lords; not unexpectedly expressing some forthright views about the shortcomings of government support for small business. Later it was the Foreign and Commonwealth Office for discussions on the Kimberley Process, some feedback on the intermediate meeting held under the chairmanship of the USA, and some difficult questions about the future. The following morning it was a breakfast meeting with Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO, who later also proved an enthusiastic participant in our joint NAG/BJA Ethics Working Group, lending the support of the World Jewellery Confederation. Next up Portcullis House, the political anthill opposite the Houses of Parliament, for a seminar convened by Anne-Marie Morris MP, Conservative representative for the Newton Abbot constituency and chair of the All Party Parliamentary Micro Business Group. The discussion was the shortcomings of the major lending institutions and the alternatives that are emerging to service the needs of the business community.

4 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Remarkably, about 90 per cent of business lending still comes from the big banks, and most SME businesses don’t look beyond them. However, the requirement for banks to hold more capital to offset their liabilities is affecting their ability to lend, and participants felt that the ‘sound bite’ initiatives announced by government aren’t having an impact. Funding expansion is one thing, for many the real problem is not ‘new’ finance but ‘re-financing’ or maintaining existing funding, with banks calling in or re-structuring overdraft facilities. But adversity has been the mother of invention, and small businesses have turned to credit cards, bridging loans, asset finance, peer-to-peer lenders, and business angels for short term funds – sometimes on unfavourable terms. Reassuringly, commercial finance, unregulated by the FSA, has flourished in recent years and we heard from one association that represents 80 different accredited lenders including banks and businesses with innovative models like crowd funding that could assist. The clear message that emerged was that small businesses should not be deterred by their first ‘no’ from the bank but seek assistance to re-structure and represent their requirements. The result may be more positive than they expect!

Safer neighbourhoods I’ve heard innumerable speeches in my time, but you cannot fail to pay attention when your guest speaker begins, “My husband Garry was murdered in Warrington on 12th August 2007 when he went out barefoot to remonstrate with people vandalising my car. It was the start of my journey to the House of Lords as someone who could speak for victims, but also the start of a life sentence of regrets; a lifetime of ‘what if’ and ‘what might have been’. A gang of youths kicked him repeatedly in the head and are now serving time for murder.” Since Garry’s death, his widow has campaigned against the UK’s binge-drink culture, calling for better training for landlords and bar staff. In November 2008, our speaker, then known simply as Mrs Newlove, went on to set up Newlove Warrington – a communitybased charity with the aim of making the town a safer and better place to live. Her vision was to improve facilities and increase opportunities for the children in the community, through better education and the teaching of key life skills. The three campaign goals were to inspire people to lead more purposeful lives, to motivate them to enrich their lives and to provide opportunities for positive interaction with communities. In

Comment | May 2010 she was given a peerage in the Dissolution Honours list and became Rt. Honourable Baroness Helen Newlove, subsequently to work with the Department for Communities and Local Government as a champion for active safer communities. The occasion was the British Security Industry Association Annual Lunch and Sir Hugh Orde OBE QPM, awarded prizes to the G4S diversity team for their contribution to the community; Oliver Moody the apprentice installer of the year; Alan Duckworth of G4S who was slashed about the arms while preventing the theft of the cash cassette he was delivering; and David Holland who, while on his way to work, restrained a man who was intending to jump from a bridge. All civilian operatives despite current criticism of the private sector! Living lives at several steps removed from the brutalities faced by others, security can sometimes feel like an ‘intellectual’ exercise, but the reality is these people are the ones who actually have to face the robber – and do something about it! I don’t think anyone in the room would have failed to respond when the Baroness challenged “all present to help realise the dream of safer, healthier, and happier neighbourhoods.”

Apprentices on parade Over time we have had a number of requests from Members for information about apprenticeship schemes and how their business can get involved. In the past there have always been stumbling blocks, and although we always wanted to get involved we never felt satisfied that SMEs were properly catered for. For their part Members also felt nervous about the quality of trainees available and making a long term commitment. However the NAG is now working with the Retail Apprenticeship Training Agency Skillsmart to provide a solution. Our education and training manager, Victoria Wingate, got together with Skillsmart’s Neil Moss recently to thrash out the details of a new pilot scheme that will allay most jewellers’ concerns about engaging an apprentice for the first time. Initially we would like to hear from jewellers in Central London, Derbyshire, the North East, Manchester, South & West Yorkshire and the South West. If interested email: education@jewellers-online.org in the first instance. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

Longing for Loughborough Studying the Loughborough Conference brochure, I have to say that Sandra Page and the IRV have excelled themselves this time. Loughborough is a regular diary date for a loyal ‘hard core’ of jewellers and valuers, however this year the initiative reaches its 25th birthday and to mark the occasion, not only has the dinner gone all ‘black tie’ but the list of contributors has gone stratospheric with big names like Alastair Dickenson Eric Knowles, Grant Macdonald, and Robert Turner. I won’t list all the highlights of the event here as the brochure runs to ten pages of treats (email Sandra to request a copy at: irv@jewellers-online.org) but further details can be found in IRV Review on page 30. Please email: feedback@jewellers-online.org for further information about any of the issues discussed above.

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“Events where we meet the people behind the jewellery are so important for retailers like us who don’t stock big mainstream brands…”

I’ve never been much interested in watching sports on TV, but I have surprised even myself with how mesmerising I have found the efforts of Team GB (as well as those of the likes of Bolt of course). But while I’ve been studying form, power and technique (yes, really, I have) I’ve also found myself drawn to more personal details. Like jewellery. Well, it’s my job. Anyway, it’s fascinated me how many athletes, men as well as women, wear it… while they’re competing. And not just subtle little studs or a pinky ring, but long, dangly, chunky chains and pendants. They don’t even tuck them into their singlets before leaving the starting blocks. Great for the industry of course, but surely it must be a distraction or hindrance? Well, clearly not, or they wouldn’t wear them, I suppose. I must lay my hands on an athlete (any

Page 50

would do) to get the low-down. And while on the subject of The Games… how were they for you? Did they live up to the promise of the shopping bonanza as tourists and locals alike flocked to the key Olympic centres? Did you get shot (no pun intended) of those souvenir-type charms? Were sales of red, white and blue enamelled cufflinks on track (pun definitely intended)? I’d love to get your feedback on the summer of (Brit) love. Meanwhile we have 2013 to look towards and to get you in the mood for thinking ahead there’s our Future Trends feature (p44) and IJL Preview (p50). The former may seem,

Many jewellers buying diamonds probably still carry on as they have done for years, hoping that fate smiles on them…”

at first reading, esoteric, head-in-the-clouds stuff, but these predictions (if you pare away the fashion speak) have a funny way of coming good in due course – albeit in less extreme or idiosyncratic forms. As for our edited overview of what to expect at Earl’s Court at the forthcoming show – it simply goes to prove what talent there is out there and what a diverse and exciting body of work is being produced to whet the appetite. Roll on IJL. See you there!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

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| Industry News

No medals (yet) for summer sales figures he jury is still out on the question of whether the Olympic Games has had a positive effect on sales for jewellery retailers, but the KPMG/British Retail Consortium’s retail sales monitor for July 2012 suggests otherwise. UK retail sales values were up 0.1 per cent on a like-for-like basis from July 2011, when they were up 0.6% on a year ago. On a total basis, sales were up 2.0 per cent, against a 2.5 per cent rise in July 2011. Online (including mail-order and phone) sales of non-food items showed stronger growth, up 15.6 per cent against growth of 9.6 per cent last year. This marks the strongest growth this year. While a PR spokesperson at Links of London reported that its Westfield Stratford store “has been very busy and really enjoying the buzz and atmosphere” with “the Official

Jewellery Collection of London 2012… selling exceptionally well there as you might imagine” trade is less buoyant elsewhere in the area. “We’ve been enjoying the Olympics, but sales figures are down,” said Jayant Raniga of PureJewels in Green Street – a stone’s throw from the Olympic park. “Our customers felt that it was not worth coming into the area during the Olympics for fear of traffic and congestion. However, the roads have been quieter than normal and access has been even easier. So all the scaremongering actually frightened the customers away unnecessarily. Also, the added restrictions on parking in the area did not help,” he added. While Thomas Sabo noticed a rise in its figures compared to last year, the German brand with a shop in Westfield Stratford didn’t

Goldsmiths’ awards for New Designers ast month The Goldsmiths’ Company gave two awards at New Designers 2012, the annual showcase of work from Britain’s leading graduate designers representing the best in contemporary design. As well as presenting the two awards the Goldsmiths’ Company also sponsored the Jewellery and Precious Metalwork Zone at the event for the ninth consecutive year and had a stand in the centre of the Zone offering students information on the new Goldsmiths’ Centre with the facilities and opportunities it presents, as well as giving technology assistance and details on hallmarking requirements. The two awards were granted for excellence – one for jewellery and one for silver. The criterion for both the awards is to identify Marie excellence in design and craftsmanship. The winning pieces have Johnstone to show superlative design, originality and sales potential. Lorna Watson said: “There was a really strong show this year, with an encouraging mix of creativity, craftsmanship and commerciality. However Marie Johnstone of Duncan & Jordanstone College of Art & Design was singled out for the Jewellery Award because of her ability to demonstrate a sense of whimsy and playfulness in tandem with strong making skills.” Her collection, featuring humerous toy-like pieces, is entitled ‘Come to Your Senses’. The Silver prize went to Noeleen Logue of the National College of Art & Design in Dublin, whose work entitled ‘It’s What’s Inside that Counts’ consists of one off hand-raised sculptural forms using traditional silversmithing raising techniques. Past Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company Mr Grant Macdonald presented the winners with a prize of £1,500, made up of Noeleen Logue a cheque of £1,000 plus precious metal to the value of £500.

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perceive a “drastic Olympic effect”. “We’re satisfied with the figures of the last couple of weeks even though short notice changes of opening hours weren’t very helpful in boosting trade,” said UK MD Harald Winzer. “We expected a bit more from the Olympic trading but most of the people just go to the games or for food & drinks rather than focusing on shopping.” Commenting on the BRC report, director general Stephen Robertson said: “With only the opening couple of days of the Olympic Games covered by these statistics we’ll have to wait a while to assess the overall impact on retail sales. Let’s hope Team GB keeps on increasing its medal tally, bringing a feel good factor that helps consumer confidence.” However, at buying group CMJ’s Autumn Trade Event, held in Birmingham just as the Games were closing, the mood among members and suppliers was buoyant. It was generally felt that the mood of optimism in the country that the Olympics had engendered would surely have a positive effect on trade in the months to come.

Rox opens Edinburgh store uxury Scottish jewellery store Rox has announced it is opening its first boutique in Edinburgh, investing £1m to create a new 2,500 sq ft jewellery and watch destination and 12 new jobs. The latest, opening in the newly redeveloped Assembly Rooms Edinburgh on George Street, will be the jeweller’s fifth boutique to date and will follow in the footsteps of its flagship Argyll Arcade store which boasts an exclusive Möet sponsored champagne bar in its ‘Thrill Room’ which is frequented by celebrities, VIPs and sports stars. Award winning interior design business Graven Images, responsible for the award winning Missoni Hotel in Edinburgh, has been commissioned to lead the fit-out programme. Work will begin on-site in September with the new boutique expected to open towards the end of October in time for the Christmas shopping rush. Kyron Keogh, MD of ROX, said: “We have been looking for a great space in Edinburgh for quite some time now and we are excited to be opening in the Assembly Rooms.

Industry News |

Team changes at Weston Beamor eston Beamor, the Birmingham-based casting house and rapid-prototyping service, has changed its management team and employed a further member of staff. The appointments herald a programme of investment and expansion for the company which is part of the WB Creative Jewellery Group. Glen Day, who was previously production Ed Hole and Glen Day manager at the firm’s sister company Domino, has been promoted to become business manager with overall responsibility for the day-to-day management of the company. Day has worked in the jewellery industry for the past 27 years and prior to joining WB was employed by Gecko and Signet. Ed Hole, who was previously working as a CAD designer within Weston Beamor, has been promoted to become head of CAD and rapid prototyping and is tasked with developing further the range of jewellery production services offered by the company. Hole joined WB shortly after graduating from Loughborough University where he took a BA Hons degree in Industrial Design. Hole’s position in the five-strong CAD design team he now heads has been filled by Sarah Phillips who has joined the company from the Hatton Garden retailer Beverley Hills Group, where she previously created bespoke CAD designs for customers. Phillips has a had a glittering design career having won, among other awards, a Goldsmiths’ Company Design Bursary to support her studies at Sheffield Hallam University where she did a degree in Jewellery and Metalwork. “My task and that of my entire team is to ensure that we fully understand our customers’ needs and that we offer them the services they are looking for as quickly and efficiently as possible,” said Day. “We are already exploring ways in which our lead times can be improved and have embarked upon a programme of further investment in the latest production technologies. We will be showing our latest acquisition – a 3D scanner which we believe is the only one currently being used for jewellery production in the UK and which undoubtedly opens up a whole raft of new production possibilities to our customers – at IJL. This is just the start of an exciting period of development for the business,” he added.

MBO at Green + Benz ndependent contemporary retail jewellers, Green + Benz, has been sold to a management buy-out team, led by the company’s incumbent managing director Helen Dimmick, for an undisclosed sum. She will take a controlling stake in the business and is joined on the new board by the company’s current finance and operations director, Mark Williams and chairman of T.H. Baker, Alan Higgs. NAG member Green + Benz, which was founded in 1991 by Shane Green and Julie Benz in 1991, has four stores in Manchester, Sheffield and Chesterfield employing 31 staff, appointed Dimmock in October 2010. Previously she worked for The Company of Master Jewellers and Tiffany & Co. “Green + Benz is in excellent shape; the great relationship with our suppliers ensures we constantly anticipate retail trends and the dedication and loyalty of our staff is second-tonone. To lead the management buy-out of such a prestigious and well-respected retail jewellery business is a truly wonderful opportunity,” said Dimmock. “Of course we will not rest on our laurels, and plans are in place to increase the turnover of the business in the next five years with store developments, expanding product ranges and services and online technology all avenues that will be explored further,” she added.

S N I P P E T S Attempted burglary of Suffolk-based NAG member Police in Felixstowe, Suffolk are appealing for information in relation to an attempted burglary at NAG member Hill’s the Jewellers in Felixstowe. On 9th August a member of staff reported that their window had been smashed and two men had been seen running away from the shop. Both are described as being in their 20s, around 5’ 10” tall and both in padded Barbour-style jackets. Initial reports are that the window held in place and nothing has been stolen from the family-owned business. A hammer has been recovered from the scene. Expansion for Jeremy Hoye Brighton-based jewellery retailer and designer Jeremy Hoye has revealed that he plans to open 10 new stores around the UK and the expansion kicks off with a shop in Tunbridge Wells which will open before this Christmas. Arriving 18 years after Hoye opened his first shop, the design of the new one will adopt the rebranded Jeremy Hoye colours of black and gold – a revamped look “with a more grown-up feel” according to Hoye. Folli Follie joins CMJ The Folli Follie Group, which includes award-winning British jewellery brand Links of London, has become an approved supplier to the Company of Master Jewellers and launched its Autumn/ Winter 2012 collections exclusively at the CMJ Autumn Trade Event this month. Held in Birmingham, the Event was the CMJ’s largest to date with 100 exhibitors showcasing new lines in three buying halls, including Converse watches which joined earlier this year. Positive shopfitting figures A survey conducted by the Shop & Display Equipment Association has revealed that its members’ sales are increasing. Exactly 60 per cent of respondants registered an increase in sales – averaging 13 per cent – over the last six months, compared with the same period last year. Almost half were confident of increased sales for the next 12 months.

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| Industry News

Two awards in one night for NAG member amily jewellers Allum & Sidaway, with stores in Shaftesbury, Gillingham, Dorchester, Salisbury and Ringwood, has been presented with two awards recognising achievement in business on the same night. Management and staff were split in order to attend the two award ceremonies in late June as the NAG member scooped the South Wilts Business of the year award for best retailer, and the first Blackmore Vale Business of the Year award. The Blackmore Vale Business of the Year Award was presented to a business that has not only increased potential but has also had a positive impact on the economy as a whole. “The past year has presented great challenges to the business community but we have shown a positive year on year turnover which we believe can only be put down to our brands, performance, customer service and award winning staff,” said MD Jason Allum. “We are absolutely thrilled to receive these awards. We believe that we have reached a pinnacle of success through hard work, outstanding achievements, expansion of locations and an investment in beautiful designer jewellery collections. To be recognised by the Blackmore Vale and the South Wilts business community with these exceptional and prestigious awards during our 70th anniversary year is a wonderful accolade for our hard work and success”.

S N I P P E T S Team change at NAG Following the departure of Stacy Simpson – who has joined the IJL team as marketing executive – the NAG is pleased to announce the appointment of Charley Torr as marketing and communications officer. Torr joins the Association from the Total Jobs Group where she gained experience in events, PR and sales communication and support. Clogau achieves RJC certification The Responsible Jewellery Council has announced that Clogau Gold has just achieved certification by meeting the highest ethical, social and environmental standards established by the RJC’s Member Certification system. The company follows in the recent footsteps of newly certified Christian Dior Couture and luxury watch brand Hublot, plus 16 other gem and jewellery businesses. Jewellery conference line-up Gem A’s Jack Ogden, who will be talking about the Cheapside Hoard, is among an impressive line-up of guest speakers at the 7th Annual Conference of the Association for the Study of Jewelry & Related Arts in New York. For details of the subjects, speakers and the event itself which will be taking place on 7th October, 2012 visit: www.jewelryconference.com Rock Vault Dozen at LFW

Chamilia chooses Bransom ersonalised jewellery and accessories brand Chamilia has announced that it has chosen Bransom Retail Systems as its preferred partner. The agreed partnership deal between the two businesses involves collecting sales information from stockists using the Bransom system and compiling KPI statistics for Chamilia. For Chamilia stockists that do not currently use the Bransom EPoS System special introductory terms are on offer. Bransom’s exclusive bsmart-Links product, which is used by a growing number of jewellery suppliers to deliver product and price updates to their stockists, will be deployed to manage the automatic collection of sales statistics to help the brand understand the sell through success rate and help with the development of new products. Chris Garland, MD of Bransom said, “Chamilia are an extremely successful brand who are keen to work with their retailers to drive consumer sales. We are very excited to be chosen by Chamilia as their preferred partner and will work hard with their retailers to make this project a success; it is an excellent opportunity for Bransom clients to work with a major brand.”

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The British Fashion Council, in collaboration with the International Palladium Board, has announced the jewellery designers who have been asked to design a ring using up to one ounce of palladium. The rings will be shown in an exhibit as part of the BFC’s jewellery initiative Rock Vault during London Fashion Week this September. Among the designers are Alexandra Jefford, Hannah Martin, Hillier and Imogen Belfield. Jewellery line for Katie Price Model and TV presenter Katie Price launched her jewellery line, Day 22, at Moda at the NEC last month. The 60-piece range, designed with costume jewellery label Lemonade includes collections for men and children as well as for women.

| Industry News

F Hinds opens its 111th store in Bury ndependent family jewellers F Hinds has opened a new store in Mill Gate Shopping Centre, Bury, bringing its total of branches across England and Wales to 111. Bury is the company’s second store in the Manchester area with the other located at the Trafford Centre. The new F. Hinds’ 1,600 square foot store, adjacent to W H Smith, has five full length shop windows and a bright layout to showcase the extensive range of gold, platinum and silver, diamond and gemstone jewellery, Lladró porcelain and collectibles. In addition, this store aims to be a magnet for those who appreciate watches – 18 classic and designer brands will be available with Guess, DKNY, Fossil and Police watches and jewellery presented on a specially designed, high gloss black wood/white shelf display. The store also features environmentally friendly, energy efficient LED lighting throughout. “We believe this could be the first retail outlet to have LED lighting not only for the shop but also all the store rooms, staff rest rooms and even the emergency lighting”, comments Neil Hinds, F. Hinds’ property director. In addition to the new store, F Hinds has appointed Underwired, a specialist digital strategy agency, to build its online customer engagement programme. “We have a close relationship with many of the customers who use our shops and we want to be able to extend that to provide the same quality of service to them online,” explained Andrew Hinds. “Our outlook is long term and hard sell is an anathema, so we only want to be in touch if we have something relevant to offer our customers as individuals. We chose Underwired because their approach mirrors ours and because they are straightforward and focused on the simple things which matter the most.”

Edinburgh Assay Office launches eCommerce tool he Edinburgh Assay Office has launched a new eCommerce tool for independent jewellers and jewellery makers, allowing them to capitalise on the booming online retail market by creating a secure and stylish website in minutes. Designed specifically to meet the needs of small to medium sized enterprises, the new eCommerce package has been developed in collaboration with Powa, a leading global supplier of online trading solutions. Assay Master and CEO Scott Walter said: “Growth in online jewellery sales now out performs traditional retail sales growth by a considerable margin. Consumers in the UK spent £7.9bn online in the last five weeks of 2011. Unfortunately, the significant upfront costs of creating a secure eCommerce enabled website means that smaller, independent jewellers captured only a fraction of those sales. “The Assay Powa platform provides all of the tools necessary to create your own retail website quickly and easily, with no expert technical knowledge required and minimal upfront costs. The package includes domain name registration and email addresses, a website wizard to help create a fully customisable website in minutes and a website hosting service.” The new Assay Powa template includes inbuilt SEO (Search Engine Optimisation) tools and the ability to integrate with existing sites, blogs, social media feeds, direct mailing solutions and stock inventory systems. The platform also has the capability to handle international expansion for companies operating existing eCommerce sites.

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S N I P P E T S New brands for MDS MDS Consulting, headed by Mark Sutcliffe (who also runs Swiss Watch Repair) has announced that he has taken on three distribution brands: Australian stainless steel jewellery company Cudworth; Zurichbased SevenFriday watches and the Swiss-German Hanhart which makes precision watches and stop watches for aviators and racers.

Certified diamond price drop A Rapaport Research Report shows that certified polished diamond prices fell in July as trading continued to slow amid ‘weak economic sentiment’. Far East buyers have grown cautious and Indian suppliers are under pressure while liquidity remains tight. Buyers are avoiding large purchases while suppliers are adjusting to lower prices. Rough inventories are rising as polished trading volume declined and sightholders are refusing to buy high-priced De Beers rough diamonds. New appointment at TJH Dublin Irish distribution company TJH Ltd has appointed Robert Eden as sales manager (UK), to lead the Dublin-based company’s entry into the UK market. Eden, who has 15 years’ experience in the jewellery industry will be working with the designer fashion brand John Rocha as well the Eternal 9ct gold collection and the sterling silver Willow & Cream boutique brand. Tissot opens mountain boutique Swiss watch brand Tissort has opened its highest boutique in the world, by partnering with The Jungfrau Railway to open a shop at the mountain’s peak. Visitors reach the sleekly modern store by experiencing Swiss railway history at first hand.

| Industry News

Pandora Q2 profits and revenue fall he set of results released by Danish jewellery, bead and charm brand Pandora in its interim report for Q2 2012 have revealed that the Groups’s revenue has decreased by 9.5 per cent, falling from DKK 1,392m in Q2 2011 to DKK 1,260m for the same period this year. The decrease in Europe is put at 16.6 per cent. Major global expansion plans remain unchanged however. The reported numbers are in line with expectations says the company, and indicate that, as anticipated, figures were adversely affected by a stock balancing campaign that was launched early this year. In Q2 Pandora received returns of DKK 183m worth of discontinued products and replaced DKK 310. The report states that excluding the negative impact of the one-off stock balancing campaign 2012 revenue growth is expected to be in mid-single digits and gross margin in the mid 60s driven by the impact of commodities prices and a reduction in Pandora’s selling prices; and EBITDA margin in the mid 20s. The company’s revenue assumption is based on the expectation of around 200 new concept stores in 2012, with a particular focus in new markets. It expects to open at least 135 new concept stores and shop-in-shops in its key new markets (Italy, France, Russia and Asia) during the course of 2012. “Our operations continued to develop as expected during the quarter, even with a slightly better gross margin helped by a changed product mix,” commented Pandora CEO Bjorn Gulden. “The execution on the stock balancing campaign continued into Q2 2012 and was very well received by our retail partners across all our markets. Even though the stock balancing campaign, short-term, hurts our revenue, cost ratio and profitability in 2012, the campaign has proven to be the right action to help our retailers improve the quality of their stock.”

125th birthday for jewellery firm labaster & Wilson, one of Birmingham’s oldest jewellery firms is celebrating 125 years in business – a span of two jubilees. The company was founded by Arthur Alabaster and Thomas Wilson on Vyse Street in the same year as the BJA was founded as well as Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee celebrations. To commemorate the events of its anniversary year it has created a selection of specially designed jewellery, including a range of Diamond Jubilee inspired brooches and pendants and a Flame for the 2012 range of enamelled cufflinks. Over the last 125 years Alabaster & Wilson has manufactured high quality products for many of the UK’s leading jewellers and also exported across Europe, USA and Australia. It has also supplied exclusive pieces for the British Royal Family, the Sultan of Brunei, Roman Abramovich, Eric Clapton, the British Racing Drivers’ Club and Formula One drivers Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button. The firm is also the leading jewellery supplier to the horse racing world. “We’re in the process of growing our business aimed at public customers, which will include the launch of a new website very soon,” explained Stephen Alabaster, great grandson of co-founder Arthur Alabaster, who runs the business with his brother Paul and sister Wendy. In this matter the company received support and advice from accountancy firm Chantrey Vellacott DFK which has represented Alabaster & Wilson for the duration of the firm’s history.

14 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

S N I P P E T S New Sima Vaziry line at British Museum Jewellery designer Sima Vaziry has added to the core range of pieces sold at the British Museum’s shop by supplying a new range commissioned in support of the ‘Shakespeare: staging the world exhibition’. The items will be on display for the duration of the show (from now until 25th November, 2012). The pieces are modern interpretations of Tudor jewellery, using red and green gems combined with silver and 24ct gold plating. Decorative Arts jewellery at Bonhams Bonhams Los Angeles will be auctioning approximately 20 pieces of 20th Century Decorative Arts jewellery on 1st October 2012. Described as ‘wearable miniature sculptures’ and inspired by modernist architecture and design, the highly collectable pieces are from artists including Georg Jensen, Line Vautrin and Claude Lalanne. Estimates start at $600. WDC restructuring approved The newly elected World Diamond Council board of directors has given the green light to a proposal by WDC president Eli Izhakoff that a steering committee be established to look at the restructuring of the Council. Membership, financing and admin will be examined. The board also expressed strong support for the reform of the Kimberley Process and for an expanded definition for conflict diamonds. Assay Office request The Birmingham Assay Office has put out an ‘urgent’ call for Birmingham’s creative talent to design a new name plate for the entrance to its historic building. Designers are being given free reign with their ideas for the silver plaque which will replace the one stolen from the premises by metal thieves earlier this year. Local bullion dealer The Bullion Room has offered to manufacture the piece using silver and studded diamonds.

Portamento

Daydream your design The Portamento Collection is an exciting designer collection of rings which can be worn on their own, or stacked together. The luxury collection uses diamonds and black diamonds, as well as precious ruby, blue and pink sapphire and emerald, and semiprecious amethyst, set in white, rose and yellow gold.

0208 446 9020 I sales @alfredterry.com I www.alfredterry.com

Industry News |

Olympic torch honour for Beaverbrooks ark Adlestone, chairman of Beaverbrooks ran through Liverpool with the Olympic flame, having been chosen for the honour by the Games’ official timekeeper Omega. At a special event held at Beaverbrooks’ Omega Boutique in The Trafford Centre shortly after the relay, Adlestone presented a cheque for £1,000 to the East Lancashire Hospice, after hearing of one particular runner’s story. Before setting off on the 300m sprint, Adlestone met 16-year old Caitlin Jones who has a rare genetic disorder – Goldenhar Syndrome, symptoms of which include a hearing impairment, autism and a heart condition, as well as special educational needs and asthma. Caitlin also suffers from panic attacks when in crowds and therefore has had to work hard at managing her state. Despite this, the teenager has raised over £26,000 for cancer charities, having lost her father to the disease four years ago. Before his death he was nursed at the Hospice. “I was very drawn to Caitlin”, says Mark. “She has raised so much money and awareness and I really wanted Beaverbrooks to support her. Prior to us running, Caitlin was very anxious, so I told her that I would make a donation on the condition that she relax and enjoy her moment with the Olympic Flame, which she did and Caitlin was supported throughout the day by Denise Gee from the Hospice.” Following Mark’s Olympic experience, the torch was taken to Beaverbrooks’ office and to some of the stores, so team members could have a closer look and have their photos taken with it.

Beverley retailers join forces

S N I P P E T S New Assay Award The Sheffield Assay Office has worked alongside one of the city’s finest silversmiths to provide the first sterling prize for a new award to celebrate excellence in innovation within the hallmark industry. Carrs Silver created the Touchstone Award, a 12 inch silver dish worth £3,500, which was presented to inaugural winners Birmingham City Council by the British Hallmarking Council for its campaign in targeting unmarked goods within the city’s jewellery community. HM the Queen receives gift from Birmingham When The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee tour rolled into Birmingham, the Queen was given a silver bowl designed and made by the Jewellery Quarter-based silversmith Andrew Macgowan. The gift was presented on behalf of the citizens of the city by BBC presenter Kay Alexander, in her role as chairman of the Birmingham Assay Office. Big Ben moves to Zurich No, not really… it just looked that way when Mondaine, maker of the official Swiss Railway Watch, transformed the Zurich Station meeting point clock into a 10m high replica of the London landmark. The clock served as the rallying point for Swiss televised coverage of the London 2012 Olympics.

AG member Guest & Philip is among 33 independent retailers in the East Yorkshire market town of Beverley, who have got together to promote themselves. Last month the group launched a new website – www.independentbeverley.co.uk – designed to celebrate and promote the diverse range of shops in the town to both locals and visitors alike. As well as contact information and links to the websites of each business, the site features a ‘trail’ – a walking tour of the town to make sure that people are taken to the door of every participating retailer. The project has been funded by Amalia Booker, owner of giftware and furniture store Amanti, who is passionate about keeping independent retail alive in Beverley. Councillor David Elvidge, chairman of Beverley and Rural Community Partnership welcomes the arrival of the website. “The independent traders in Beverley are, I believe, the backbone of our local economy,” he said. “They are at the heart of our thriving community, indeed they are an integral part of our town’s unique character, something that attracts visitors from far and wide to shop within our town and visit us again and again. I wish them all continued success and would encourage everyone to support local independents. The retailers, who also include jewellery shops Figaro and Xen Jewellery, hope that other independent retailers around the country will find their initiative inspiring, “particularly those in towns that are suffering in the shadow of retail giants”. The move comes just before the Government’s announcement of another wave of Portas Pilots aimed at reviving the UK’s high streets. The 15 chosen locations include Ashford, Braintree, Morecombe and Tiverton.

The Voice of the Industry 17

| Industry News

Tresor Paris ‘Raw’ winners announced

ergus Feeney, the Royal Mint’s programme director for the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic medals went on air earlier this month to give DJ Chris Evans the low-down on the Mint’s work. Among the facts revealed: 4,700 medals were struck (any left over will be returned for refining), they are the biggest and heaviest ever made for the Games, the gold and silver medals weigh 412g and each one takes 10 hours to produce with 22 stages and the gold medals are made of silver and each gilded with around 6g of gold.

Kaanaanmaa celebrates Jubilee

ast month three students of Holts Academy in Hatton Garden were announced as the winners of Tresor Paris’ ‘Raw’ competition. In first place was Rebecca Boatfield who impressed the judges with her ‘original and current’ design incorporating pyramid forms. The second prize went to Amy Crockford, with Saima Husain scooping third. The competition was launched this Spring, the brief asking students to create an original design for the Tresor Paris collection, using the raw materials that the company favours. Boatfield’s design featured magnetite, stainless steel and black Tibetan cord and will now be included as a limited edition bracelet in the Tresor Paris collection. The Hatton Garden-based jewellery company was the recipient of the inaugural Marketing Campaign of the Year category at this year’s UK Jewellery Awards.

Royal London steps back in time ritish watch brand Royal London has found a new fanbase – members of the WWII re-enactment community. Produced by the Condor Group, Royal London was invited to exhibit at last month’s War & Peace Show at Paddock Wood, Kent and caused a stir with its faithfully rendered 1930s and ’40s style timepieces. Following the exposure at the show Royal London received further endorsement for its vintage replicas from the Dame Vera Lynn Trust for Children with Cerebral Palsy, with whom the company intends to collaborate on its next Vintage range. The company has already donated a percentage of sales made at War & Peace to the Trust. Speaking of the project, Royal London’s head of UK sales & marketing David Stokes said: “It’s in the very early stages of discussion but nonetheless an exciting project for the future and we’re really looking forward to working with such a wonderful and historic British charity”.

18 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Royal Mint talks medals with Chris Evans

okingham-based fine jewellery maker and NAG member Kaanaanmaa supported the town’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations by designing and donating a new piece of civic regalia for Wokingham Town Council, joining other items commemorating significant royal and national events. The hand-made piece, which is valued at £8,000, is an acorn pin in 18ct gold and set with 1ct of brilliant-cut diamonds, to be worn by the Mayor on official duties. When it is not being worn Kaanaanmaa have made a silver base of acorns, acorn cups and twigs for the pin to sit in to be on display. The pin reflects the Council’s crest and motto E glande quercus – ‘from the acorn, the oak’.

STAINLESS STEEL & LEATHER

The Voice of the Industry 19

| Industry News

Warrenders houses Olympic torch

urrey family jewellers Warrenders has had the honour of playing host to an official Olympic torch throughout the duration of the London Olympic and Paralympic Games. The torch went on display in its Sutton Store on 27th July. The torch is on loan at Warrenders from one of the three Sutton residents chosen as Olympic torchbearers, Lauren Sullivan. Lauren, who has achondroplasia, a form of dwarfism, was nominated to be a torchbearer for her inspirational sporting achievements. Through swimming she has been able to see beyond her disability and accomplish great triumphs. This year in the DSE Junior National

Disability Championships she won three gold medals, and her most recent success was breaking the minute on 50m freestyle to gain a qualifying time for the British Internationals competition. Lauren won the Sutton disabled sportsperson of the year award in July 2011, and is a Paralympic hopeful for 2016. Lauren is the sister of Warrenders sales assistant Kirsten Sullivan, who joined the team this May. The store will be donating £215; the cost of the torch, to Lauren’s chosen charity, the Dwarf Sports Association which enables equal opportunities for dwarves to compete fairly against one another in a variety of different sports.

Bucks jewellers to close fter 143 years in business, NAG member Bucks Jewellers of Hanley, Stoke on Trent is to close as the Buck family retires from the business. The store will close its doors for the final time on Christmas Eve this year. In the meantime, all stock is being reduced by up to 50 per cent. Established in 1869 by Arthur Frederick Buck, the store was managed latterly by Lauren Buck after her father, Philip, was diagnosed with cancer in 2009. In the 1960s FA Buck Jeweller’s became the first and only Rolex agent in Staffordshire and remained so until this year. In 2008 the store underwent a major refurbishment, transforming it from a dark, traditional shop into a contemporary showroom.

20 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Russian rough diamond auction held ussia’s largest diamond company, Alrosa, conducted its first-ever auction of large, rough diamonds last month. Held in New York the sale saw more than 80 per cent of the goods on offer sold. It featured 51 rough diamonds ranging from very fine to commercial quality, in sizes that ranged from 11 carats to almost 80 carats. The highlight of the by-invitation-only auction were two gem-quality rough diamonds weighing 57.47 and 79.65 carats respectively, which sold for several million US dollars each. The sale was the outcome of a series of talks initiated by the Diamond Manufacturers & Importers Association of America. The total sales sum of the auction and the identity of the buyers has not been revealed.

New features at Gemworld s well as the lure of 280 exhibitors from 32 countries who will be presenting gemstones and jewellery at Gemworld Munich (26th – 28th October, 2012), the German show will, this year, be playing host to the only International Colored Gemstones Association Pavilion in Europe. Organisers also anticipate that cutters from Idar-Oberstein and numerous providers from India, Thailand and Hong Kong will turn the event into the centre of the global diamond trade for two days. In addition there will also be a new Brazilian Pavilion with exhibitors bringing polished and unpolished stones straight from the mine.

To b e a s t o c k i s t w w w. m d s c o n s u l t i n g . w e b s . c o m Te l : + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 8 7 4 9 9 9 0 6 E m a i l : m a r k d a v i d s u t c l i f f e @ y a h o o . c o . u k

| NAG News

Countdown to IJL ith September just around the corner, the industry set to experience some of the best trade events of the year, starting, of course, with International Jewellery London. We’re not just saying this because of the longstanding relationship between the NAG and London’s premier trade show – but because IJL has an enviable reputation for a quality event. Over four days from the 2nd of September IJL will provide the perfect chance for retailers looking to buy for Christmas and the coming year, while also delivering an ideal opportunity to catch an impactive runway show, listen to an inspiring seminar, or discover an up and coming young designer. This is a sentiment backed up by IJL’s event director, Sam Willoughby. “The show is already seen as an essential buying event

in the calendar for top retailers and buyers, across London, the UK and internationally. Amazing designers and brands choose IJL as the time to launch their new collections and it provides an optimum opportunity to source with the busy Christmas period approaching, but also with 2013 in mind,” she said. “Retailers find they can keep ahead by visiting IJL, in terms of both new designs and latest trends. With exciting new features, initiatives and names, this year’s show is set to be outstanding.” We’re especially looking forward to the BJA’s KickStart. It’s a positive initiative that gives 10 promising designers the chance to showcase their work and allows retailers and manufacturers to pick out their potential stars of the future. As always, we’re also excited about the Inspiration Theatre, which never fails to impress with its packed programme of informative lectures. Once again the NAG is proud to announce that its Ethical Working Party seminar will be taking place on 4th September at 15.15 in the Inspiration Theatre. And for members who are looking for new wares the selection of high quality, design-led jewellery showcased at IJL is unrivalled in the UK. This year promises to be packed with more star brands and

designers such as Jessica de Lotz and Andrew Geoghegan – while also hosting the first IJL Watch Trail with brands like Storm, Since 1853 and BQ. As proud sponsors, the Luke Street team will be out in force promoting the benefits of the Association and discussing jewellers’ issues face-to-face. The NAG will also be hosting a Summer Drinks Reception on Monday 3rd September in the Victoria Room from 2.15pm-3.15pm so please join us and meet the team, our CEO and the new chairman Pravin Pattni. You can find us on the day at Stand I109 OR for more information about the NAG at IJL visit our blog at: nag-blog.org To find out how you can attend IJL visit: www.jewellerylondon.com or call them on: 020 8271 2144.

Security conference sponsors confirmed hose of you who read Michael Hoare’s weekly digest The Week That Was on the new NAG blog, will be aware that we’re currently working hard on preparations for the NAG’s first Retailer Security Conference. The event, which is scheduled to take place on 16th October at BRE (Building Research Establishment) Watford, will play host to a number of informative talks, live demonstrations and networking sessions surrounding the issues jewellers face when it comes to crime. As with any luxury, high-value industry, jewellers deal with crime frequently – and we only have to look back to the tragic death of Peter Avis in January this year to be reminded how important security is for the retail jeweller. But we know too well that

22 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

half the battle is finding what protection you need and then sifting through the many suppliers out there (and there’s a lot!) to find what best suits your circumstances. This is where the security conference comes in. Firstly, we want jewellers to become better informed about the risks they face and secondly, we want them to be able to find cost-effective solutions to their security issues. With this is in mind, we’ve already enlisted a number of sponsors from the security industry to help run the day. Our headline sponsor is SmartWater Technology which delivers customised crime reduction strategies. Working with the major players in the security industry SmartWater consults many large companies on how to plan their business in a secure way. The conference

will provide a unique insight into the SmartWater approach – and will hopefully encourage jewellers to think about using some of these techniques in their business. We’re also proud to announce we have speakers from fogging company Bandit, a live demonstration sponsored by Romag and exhibitions from Insafe International and Checkpoint Systems. All in all it promises to be an exciting and informative day – so we’re really looking forward to it. And if all that wasn’t enough to whet your appetite, this event is free to all NAG members. Yes, FREE! So if you’re interested in coming along, please contact Ritu Verma on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: ritu@jewellers-online.org for more information.

NAG News |

New chairman celebrates UK Jewellery award winners ast month saw the great and the good of the UK Jewellery industry descend on the Grosvenor House Hotel in London for the Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards. Among those attendees was our very own chairman Pravin Pattni who joined some 600 key industry players in celebrating the personal and professional business excellences of the last year. To his and our delight, Pattni was able to witness several NAG members take home top prizes. In almost all of the award categories NAG members were nominees and many of them subsequently left with top honours, as radio and TV star Lauren Laverne announced this year’s winners. Overall six member stores picked up prizes in the fifteen categories that were contested throughout the evening. These winners included: • Tresor Paris – Marketing Campaign of the Year • Rox – Independent Retailer of the Year • Clogau – Jewellery Brand of the Year • Steffan’s – Jewellery E-tailor of the Year • Beaverbrooks – Retail Employer of the Year And Kirstie Rennie from the Glasgow branch of Fraser Hart, who took home the Retail Star of the Year award. “There was a really good feel at the evening. It was a great celebration and a good opportunity to network within the trade,” commented Prattni. “It was delightful to meet with friends from the industry, and especially to see so many of our members rewarded for their hard work. I look forward to doing it all again next year!” The NAG would like to congratulate all members who walked away with a prize – an indication of their outstanding work, passion, and dedication over the past year. It’s this kind of excellence in the field that has enabled the NAG to endure for many years. Thank you, and long may it continue!

New NAG website under development ast year saw both the flagship JET 1 and JET 2 courses take on a new edge, as we launched our online learning environment – enabling students from across the globe to take these industry-leading courses. In keeping with this digital streamlining programme the NAG is introducing a new website for all things knowledge-related. The new education website is currently being developed and will be launched later this year. The site comes as part of a total revamp of the NAG’s digital space which we began in April with a number of new social media channels and our blog (yes, another plug!). It’s taken a little while for the NAG to get this far, and as we’re constantly extolling the virtues of new technology and evolution in business so it’s time to be taking heed of our own words. We’re really looking forward to the new education website and all further possible developments in our online sphere. Here at Luke Street we’ve seen a sneak preview – and think it looks fabulous!

New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications David Jones (Goldsmith & Jeweller), Preston, Lancs Clogau – Jewellery Brand of the Year

Beaverbrooks – Retail Employer of the Year

Affiliate Applications Sue Trewin, Hemel Hempstead

Win a luxury IJL experience

Neve Jewels Ltd, Hatton Garden

f you haven’t already heard, now is your your last chance to join the NAG/IJL giveaway. This year the Association is offering two people the chance to enjoy a luxury IJL experience, courtesy of event organisers Reed Exhibitions. What is a luxury experience you may ask? Well, that’s a closely guarded secret for now. All will be revealed once the winner is announced. So for your chance to enter simply visit the NAG Blog at: nag-blog.org or contact Ritu at Luke Street for further details on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: ritu@jewellers-online.org

IRV Applications

If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on tel: (029) 2081 3615.

New Member Applicants David L Goodson PJDip PJValDip FGA DGA, David Lloyd, Ludlow

The Voice of the Industry 23

| NAG News

NAG Member of the Month Amy Oliver speaks to Andrea Maude of Maude’s The Jewellers in Boston, Lincolnshire. Set up in 1976, the shop has become one of the most highly regarded jewellery businesses in the county. The company recently won a customer service award for local businesses; what made you stand out from the other nominees and how did the team at Maude’s feel about winning the award? We firmly believe that one of the most impressive aspects of our business, and one that helped us to stand out amongst the other candidates for the award, is our attitude and respect towards both our colleagues and customers. For us, every day at work is a new chance to share our love of jewellery with the public. Winning the award only confirmed our commitment to the community and we are so proud of our achievement. You sell quite a few different jewellery brands, but with so many names out there nowadays it must be difficult to choose between them. What criteria do you look for when picking those to stock? Choosing the right brands for our customers is incredibly important to us. We regularly attend various exhibitions like IJL and Spring Fair at the NEC to ensure that we are always up to date with the latest designs and brands. We believe one of the best ways to choose is to involve all of our team at Maude’s so that we are all a part of the brands that we sell. In terms of criteria, we look for innovative design, styles that will suit an array of tastes and pieces that

combine fashion and quality. And we do not underestimate packaging and point of sale when judging a brand either! The latter are very important to customers when buying gifts, so we take this very seriously. We have recently taken on the brand ‘Lily & Lotty’. They supply beautiful packaging and displays, which have attracted a lot of positive attention from our customers. One of the brands you are currently selling is the ‘Help for Heroes’ collection by Claus Sheelke for Aagaard. Have you found this range to be popular, and do customers have a different attitude toward this kind of charitable jewellery? The ‘Help for Heroes’ collection continually proves to be a popular brand, both for its style credentials and for the amazing charity that it supports. The designs are attractive and appealing to both men and women with the variety of clasps available. We also find that the customers particularly love the story that is behind the making of the bracelets – a story based on bravery and camaraderie. And there is most certainly a different attitude towards charitable jewellery. With this brand in particular, the charity in question is close to many of our customers’ hearts as many seem to know somebody – be it a friend or family member – who is involved in some way. The fact that the ‘Help for Heroes’ collection now donates 10 per cent of every sale to the charity is an extra incentive to buy. Currently, what would you say was your best selling brand and why do you think this is? As our largest range is Aagaard this has, for a while, been our best selling brand. We feel it incorporates the idea of ‘affordable luxury’ for both men and women, with necklaces and bracelets that customers can build themselves and collect for occasions. Aagaard are constantly expanding and updating their collections too, making it quite addictive for jewellery fanatics!

24 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Recently though, we have taken on the Coeur de Lion range, which is certainly proving to be just as popular. The eye-popping colours, tactile materials and the fact that they look just as good off as they do on means that they have been flying off of our shelves, with people buying sets at a time! The government is currently trying to help new businesses start up during this tough economic climate. As a thriving and long standing jewellery business, what advice would you give to those entrepreneurs looking to start up in the retail jewellery trade? I would say, without doubt, that if you want a jewellery business to be successful, you need absolute commitment. Like any good business, sacrifices may be necessary but if you put in every effort you will enjoy the results. A positive outlook is important too, as well as an active relationship with the community; if you treat your customers well, they will come back again and again. And make sure you have a bit of fun too – no one likes a dull window display, so get creative! For Mothers’ Day for example, we filled our windows with vintage tea cups, French fancies and bunting! Everybody loved it. And finally, could you supply us with your favourite customer anecdote? When we first launched Aagaard’s ‘Lovelinks’ at Maude’s, a valued customer of ours was unsure about them and reluctant to purchase a bracelet, believing they ‘weren’t for her’. Regardless of this, her husband treated her to one and within weeks she was already well on her way to achieving completion. Years on, this lady now has 15 bracelets and counting, as well as rings, earrings, and necklaces too. All Maude’s the Jeweller’s can say is “Told you so!” If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, please write in and tell us why! Send an email to: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org.

NAG RETAIL SECURITY CONFERENCE TUESDAY 16TH OCTOBER @ BUILDING RESEARCH ESTABLISHMENT, WATFORD THEME: ‘LOSS PREVENTION’ HOSTED BY THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS IN CONJUNCTION WITH TH MARCH

HEADLINE SPONSOR:

Confused about what security equipment is best for YOUR business? The choice and technological advances make it difﬁcult to decide. However, some basic standards apply to safes, glass, and alarms that cannot be ignored. That’s why we are working with T H March to let put these standards to the test. The theme is loss prevention and, with some graphic practical demonstrations, we’ll be having a ‘smashing’ time, so don’t get left out. Book now – it’s free!

MEMBERSHIP BENEFIT: Free to all NAG members! £35+VAT for NON-NAG members

CONTACT THE NAG ON: Email: nag@jewellers-online.org Tel: 020 7613 4445 Web: www.jewellers-online.org

TOPICS ON THE AGENDA: Facades & Glazing, Safe Standards, SaferGems, Alarm Transmission, Fogging Systems and Forensic Marking EXHIBITORS INCLUDE: SmartWater Technology Bandit UK Romag Ltd InSafe International Ltd Checkpoint Systems PLUS live Product Demonstrations

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERS’ DIPLOMA

BOOST STAFF CONFIDENCE AND IMPROVE SALES The Professional Jewellers’ Diploma is packed with information on effective selling designed [V IVVZ[ WYVÄ[ HUK IYPUN YLWLH[ I\ZPULZZ Get all the practical skills that a jeweller needs in two bite-sized online assessment chunks (known as JET 1 and JET 2

As well as product knowledge and selling skills, customer service, hallmarking, gemstones, metals (gold, platinum, palladium and silver) the programmes also cover: JET 1 Online: New designers, personal development, rings, silverware and gifts. JET 2 Online: Alternative shopping, JVUZ\TLY JVUÄKLUJL KPZWSH` OPZ[VY` VM QL^LSSLY` [OL QL^LSSLY HUK [OL SH^ ZLJ\YP[` ZLY]PJLZ HUK YLWHPYZ ]HS\H[PVUZ

Invest in staff training and get ahead of the competition by contacting the NAG now on: tel: 020 7613 4445 #1 or email jet@jewellers-online.org or visit www.jewellers-online.org The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG

NAG News: Education & Training |

How to gain that competitive edge e’re aware of sounding like a broken record when it comes to seminars. But honestly, it doesn’t really bother us that much. Why? Well because the NAG is always sounding the horn of new knowledge and for ever encouraging its members to take on some supplementary training to boost their skills portfolio. It’s nothing new, and nothing you probably won’t hear repeated across the pages of The Jeweller in the months and years to come. Of course, as we’re running the courses we’re going to say “Yes, education is good” – but perhaps it does beg the question – “What can an NAG seminar really do for me?” Well it depends on what you are looking for. The NAG has a range of seminars from Eric Emms’ Diamond Grading workshop to Virada Training’s ‘Selling to Chinese Customers’ course. What you require will depend on your unique positioning in both a local and national market. However, whether you are a part of a multiple business, or going

it alone, the one thing an NAG seminar can really provide is a competitive edge. Just ask yourself: do my competitors have the cultural skills to convert sales? Can they distinguish and grade diamonds with a rigorous method developed over 30 years experience? Do they or their staff have the advanced selling skills to push those high-value products? If the answer is ‘No’, or ‘I don’t know’ – then shouldn’t you be making the most of an opportunity to gain that extra yard? We think it would be foolish not to. To this end, the NAG’s seminars are designed to give jewellers new techniques and insights that can really boost knowledge, brand awareness, practical skills and most of all, increase those all-important sales. These one and two-day courses include: • Gold Buying and Precious Metal Testing Seminar – London: 12th September • Essential Display Seminar – London: 4th October

• Eric Emms Diamonds & Diamond Grading Seminar – London: 16th & 17th October • Selling to Chinese Customers (dates TBC) • Advanced Selling Course (dates TBC) All our courses are hosted by professionals, and all take place in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. We have received 97 per cent positive feedback on our seminar programme, and hope we can continue to increase this figure with the range and quality we provide. If any of these titles spark your interest, contact Amanda White on 020 7613 4445 or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org for further details.

JET tutorial dates t’s that nail-biting time of year again when many of our students will be facing their final exams for the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (JET 1 & JET 2), or the Professional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma. While sitting any exam is a daunting task for most, we’re trying to make those top marks as attainable as possible with another round of tutorials.

The dates are as follows: JET 1 Tutorials London – 18th September Glasgow – 18th September Birmingham – 19th September Leeds – 21st September Stockport – 26th September JET 2 Tutorials Jersey – 12th September London – 20th & 27th September Stockport – 20th September Glasgow – 24th September Birmingham – 27th September Leeds – 28th September Gemstone Course Tutorials London – 9th, 10th & 11th October Tutorials take place in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, and it’s a great opportunity to

meet your tutor and fellow students before the final exam. Previous students who have taken a tutorial say it really helps with their confidence before the exams and it is also proven to increase your chances of reaching those top marks. For more information on booking your place, contact the education department on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: jet@jewellers-online.org Autumn Exam Dates 2012 JET 2: 24th October Gemstone: 23rd October (Practical) 24th October (Theory) Exam entry forms will be posted to students in August. The deadline for exam entries is 14th September.

The Voice of the Industry 27

| NAG News: Education & Training

June Bransom Award winner

his month we celebrate the achievements of Ashley Nye of Ernest Jones in Bromley who has been declared the June 2012 winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award. Held in conjunction with the team at Bransom Retail Systems, each month the education department enters all JET 1 assignments into a competition for ‘best project’. Selected by the external examiners, the award gives students the chance to be rewarded with a trip to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of their certificate at our annual student award ceremony. Those who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. From assignments received this month, Ashley’s was the one that stood out from the bag of entries in the opinion of the project moderator. Congratulations to him from us and also from his tutor Eddie Stanley, who said: “Ashley has produced some outstanding answers to each piece of JET 1 online course assignment work. Every answer has been well-researched, facts gathered and then marshalled into a very good answer. All his work received the top grade”. When we asked the project moderators as to why they selected Ashley’s project they

28 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

commented: “There were six other very strong candidates for the JET 1 Bransom Monthly Award during the month of June. Ashley’s project was creative, well researched, presented in a very readable manner and supported by a list of references for each main point included in the answer. It is clear this work had been produced with first-hand knowledge of diamond product as well as a mature, well-developed customer care skills base.”

“It is great to be rewarded,” said Ashley on hearing of the prize. “I didn’t know much about it at first, but once I read up on it I realised it was quite an honour to get the recognition. “I’d been working in the jewellery industry about two and a half years before I began studying for JET 1. I thought I already had a good knowledge of my products and how to sell to customers – but the JET course made me realise there was so much more to learn. After I started doing the course I felt more comfortable and natural around customers, because I was confident in my knowledge. It really helped put me at ease because I wasn’t constantly thinking about what I was doing. I particularly enjoyed the last assignment about diamonds, and it’s given me a more in-depth awareness, showing me different aspects of the trade. Overall the course was great, and I would recommend it to anyone else in my position. I’d definitely consider another JET course in the future. Ashley finally wanted to thank his tutor for being so prompt and helpful, and his store manager Vicky for supporting him through the course. For more information on the JET courses, go to: www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom please visit: www.bransom.co.uk

| NAG News: IRV Review

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

Celebrating 25 years of professional valuing standards Come and join us in celebrating the NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers’ Silver Jubilee at the Loughborough Conference, says Sandra Page he Association is extremely proud of the achievements of the NAG’s IRV whose objective is to provide the public with a professional valuation service through its dedicated, qualified and experienced Members and Fellows. The achievements of what was the NAG Registered Valuer Scheme (re-launched as the Institute in 2008) have been many over the years. Thankfully the one-liner valuations are much rarer than they used to be – although it is shocking to realise that there are some people in the trade who still offer their customers pieces of paper with little information (and often handwritten!) and have the audacity to call them valuations! The Institute is doing its best to promote to the public what they should expect when they ask for a valuation and making them aware that if they use an IRV they will receive detailed professional documentation. Not only is the public now taking this on

30 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

board, the insurance companies are also recognising the specialist service that their clients will receive if they use an IRV. However, without the support of its MIRVs and FIRVs the Institute would not exist so this special anniversary will be celebrated at our annual conference in Loughborough this September when an amazing 30 guest speakers will join with delegates to share their knowledge and experience of our magnificent trade. The Conference, running from 22nd to 24th September, includes the very popular Workshop Sessions on Saturday afternoon, all of Sunday, and Monday morning. There’s a record 21 to choose from this year – from Peter Buckie, David Callaghan, Rosamond Clayton, Steve Collins, Claire Mitchell of the Gem-A, Chris Simpson and Paula Grenney from the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, Kerry Gregory, Peter Hering, Alan Hodgkinson, Kate Hopley, Tracy Jukes,

Heather McPherson, Shirley Mitchell, Craig O’Donnell, Pravin Pattni, James Riley, Richard Taylor, Thom Underwood & Michael Inkpen of Quantum Leap, Geoff Whitefield & John Watson, Stephen Whittaker and Naomi Wilson. With the main theme for this year’s conference being ‘celebrating 25 years of professional jewellery valuing’ the guest speakers are Alastair Dickenson (of BBC1’s Antiques Roadshow), David Evans (past Deputy Warden of The Goldsmiths’ Company), Steve Kennedy (The Gem & Pearl Laboratory Ltd), Eric Knowles (also BBC1’s Antiques Roadshow), Grant Macdonald (the renowned silversmith) and Robert Turner (former Queen’s Remembrancer). On the Saturday night of the conference there is a Gala Dinner Dance (black tie and evening dress this year, because it’s a special occasion) during which we shall announce the winner of the David Wilkins Award and present certificates to those Members of the Institute who have become Fellows. The conference will also have the following exhibitors taking part: Bransom Retail Systems, Fellows, the Gem-A, the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, T H March & Co Ltd, Quantum Leap and SafeGuard/AnchorCert. The Conference Package Fee starts at the exceptional price of £425 for NAG/IRV members and £525 for non-NAG members (plus VAT). If you’re a member of another trade organisation, and four other members from the same body want to attend, you can do so at the NAG member rate. We also offer a 10 per cent discount for the third (and fourth, etc) delegate if a company wants three or more staff to attend. (Please note all the Lodge Bedrooms have been taken.) Full details on the whole programme are contained in the brochure which is available upon request from Sandra Page, the Conference Organiser. Email Sandra at: irv@jewellers-online.org.

Foto: Henn of London Ltd.

October 26 - 28, 2012 Where the global industry meets the European market! Join one of Europe's most important gem and jewellery exhibitions in autumn. Get in contact with industry leaders and new clients from one of the biggest jewellery markets worldwide. The Gemworld Munich is part of the Munich Show â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the leading show for rough stones and minerals in Europe. For more information visit www.gemworldmunich.com and stay updated with the monthly newsletter.

www.gemworldmunich.com To watch the 2012 preview clip, simply scan the QR-Code!

n n! e- tio th o lin mo 15 On pro er b et m ck te Ti Sep m fro

Meet the international Gemworld in Munich !

| Feature

Show Report: Bijorhca at Eclat de Mode, Paris Bijorhca’s early date gets an uncertain reaction says Mélina Leprince-Ringuet hile the early summer date for The Jewellery Show London was generally well-received by exhibitors and visitors alike, the jury is still out as far as the recent Bijorhca at Eclat de Mode, Paris is concerned. Usually held in September, the event was brought forward to the end of June/early July with the aim of extending the exhibitors’ sales period, according to Richard Martin, the artistic director of the show.

Earring by Satellite

However, a straw poll among the ‘precious jewellery’ stands at the show revealed that the event was “quiet because large French jewellery houses preferred instead to work with designers during Paris Haute Couture week”. Many exhibitors expressed the view that the show should return to its autumn date. However, those visitors who did make the trip to the Porte de Versailles found an interesting cross-section of jewellery styles on show – from the rather classic and reserved French designers and brands, to the more exuberant and unusual offerings from foreign exhibitors, of which there were a number. Those looking for new talent would have found a cluster of smaller, niche brands, many of whom were responding

32 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

to the high price of gold by creating more delicate pieces. Alternatively they were working with other materials. Both Brazilian Olendzki and Giancarlo Cirasia of Italy noticed the market tendency this season was silver rather than gold, with Cirasia observing that English buyers seemed “greatly interested in Italian jewellery taste as they appreciated the colourful tones” which characterised his pieces. Rio de Janeiro-based Olendzki takes its inspiration from the strong fashion buzz of the city and in particular the childhood of the designers Eda and Nina. They also include traditional Brazilian customs shown as scenes made in gold or silver and rare wood. For instance the Lapa necklace represents a well known neighbourhood in Rio famous for its traditional dances and music. Finally, endangered flowers are sculpted with such a fine technique that the jewel’s appearance is close to reality as seen in an orchid bracelet. In terms of buying patterns noticed at Bijorhca, it all boils down to a bipolar tendency that balances itself out on an

Bangle by Olendzki

Necklace by J’ll Pearl

international level. On one hand the delicate minimalist jewellery was targeted by those who are struggling with the economic crisis – which more or less means the Europeans. While on the other, the maximalist, statement jewellery appealed to those who are not suffering from fiscal restraints – namely the Russians.

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Ask not what we can do for you but what together we can do for the benefit of all. . .

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS is the largest and most active trade association in the Jewellery industry. Representing retailers within this sector for well over 100 years, we work together with our members to promote the highest level of ethical, professional practice in the UK Jewellery sector through ‘Education’, ‘Representation’ and ‘Communication’. Today the potential and pitfalls of the jewellery industry are as complex as they are challenging and as the industry’s major trade association, the NAG is committed to providing our members with the necessary tools and information to ensure their businesses are best equipped to take advantage of the challenges ahead. Indeed we are, and have been, at the forefront of many industry matters – either contesting, debating or discussing the key issues that effect our members and the industry as a whole; whether it’s ‘The Kimberley Process’, ‘FairTrade Gold’, ‘CIBJO’, ‘Ethical Jewellery’ or ‘Action for Market Towns’ to name a few, the views of our membership are always well represented at the ‘top table’. Plus, more recently, the NAG has developed member initatives such as ‘Safergems’ (in conjunction with TH March to improve the fight against crime), the ‘Executive Development Forum’ (a member forum committed to sharing ideas and improving sales) and the ‘Institute of Registered Valuers’ (setting standards for professional valuers). Add the NAG’s industry renowned JET I & 2 Education and Training online courses to the list, as well as publishing its very own magazine The Jeweller, and it is clear to see the NAG is proactively involved in all aspects of the trade. The NAG is your voice and your trade association for the UK Jewellery industry – collectively and together we can work to achieve a better industry for everyone. If you would like to find out what working together can achieve for the benefit of all, please call Amy Oliver on 020 7613 4445 and find out about the different membership schemes available to retailers, manufacturers and designers.

Education • Representation • Communication www.jewellers-online.org

BJA News |

Simon says! BJA CEO Simon Rainer looks ahead to the BJA’s presence at the forthcoming IJL show and reveals a new service for its members. his year, the BJA celebrates its 125th anniversary and as part of the year long commemorative programme, at IJL we will be launching our new anniversary video depicting a flavour of BJA members’ work over the years. Supporting the video will be a timeline exhibition depicting the change in jewellery designs and technology over the years. We will also be displaying the Jubilee Brooch Award finalists for votes from UK residents. The BJA prides itself on the work undertaken with the UK’s jewellery designer community – not only including training and mentoring, it incorporates helping young designers understand the importance of exhibiting their work. In this respect we are proud of our association with IJL organisers Reed Exhibitions which enables us to bring to you an excellent posse of aspiring design talent on the KickStarters stand at the exhibition. Please look out for BJA members at the show – they will be displaying our 125 logo cards on their stands. These companies will have signed a code of ethics relating to good business practises and many are also signing up to the recently launched Gold Standard. If you would like to discuss any of our 75 membership services and benefits, apprenticeships and training or BJA project please visit our stand (J120) where the team will be pleased to offer help and advice.

BJA Awards There is still time to register your application for the BJA awards programme – a celebration of the excellent contribution that BJA members make to the UK jewellery industry. The award categories are: • BJA Member of the Year: Individual or company that has helped most to promote the BJA during 2012. • BJA Supplier of the Year: BJA member or a supplier of services to the BJA membership who has provided outstanding service during 2012. • BJA Industry Contributor of the Year: BJA member that has done the most to contribute to the overall good of the industry – suggested areas include: ethical trading practices, training, new standards, initiatives etc. • BJA Designer of the Year: BJA member who has consistently produced the most commercially viable designs to raise the profile of British design. • BJA Retailer of the Year: BJA member running either a bricks and mortar business or ecommerce platform The Awards will culminate in a prestigious ceremony in Birmingham on 6th December 2012 and more information on the Benevolent Society Ball can be found at:

www.bja.org.uk/awardsball Details of the various sponsorship packages for the BJA awards can be found at: www.bja.org.uk/sponsors

New service provider – Annodata Through Annodata’s association with leading business partners such as Canon, Toshiba, Ricoh and Kyocera, it is able to offer up to 30 per cent savings on your existing photocopying, printers and peripheral expenditure (subject to your current situation). For BJA members, Annodata will arrange a site visit and conduct a free audit of your company’s current photocopier stock and review your annual spend. In a most recent case study, Annodata saved a BJA member £3,000 per year! Benefits include: • a national service • termination existing agreements to reduce annual hire payments • an all inclusive package including machines, toners service, call outs, and maintenance parts/labour • flexible finance packages to suit all budgets • a wide range of equipment – ranging form a small ink jet printer to high volume print devices. For further information visit: www.bja.org.uk

The Voice of the Industry 35

| BJA News

Finalists announced for BJA Diamond Jubilee Competition he BJA is pleased to announce the finalists of its Diamond Jubilee Competition, which was launched back in June this year. Having received 30 high quality entries for a fine-jewellery brooch design, the judges narrowed it down to six finalists. The judging is now open to the UK jewellery trade and public, inviting them to choose their favourite. The finalists are: • Andrew Everest Fine Jewellery – The Queen’s Firework Brooch • Gwyneth Harris Fine Jewellery – Garland of Four British National Flowers and Six Commonwealth Bangles • Harriet Bedford – The Floral Time Capsule • Ivonna Poplanska – The Eternal Dove • Kasun London – The Queen Bee • Lynsey Pluck Jewellery – Leading Light

Designers were inspired by the Queen’s 60 year reign, through the many formative and historically significant eras Her Majesty has guided the nation and indeed the Commonwealth over that time.

Gwyneth Harris

“The generosity of the trade is shining through to help us mark this occasion with a quality statement piece,” commented Straughton. “It is such an honour for these six designers and fitting that a public vote will choose the winner. The BJA is encouraging not only its membership and the whole trade to vote, but is appealing to a broader national audience to participate.” Ivonna Poplanska

Andrew Everest

Alongside BJA marketing manager Lindsey Straughton judges included Ruth Donaldson from Platinum Guild International, Helen Dimmick from Green + Benz, Rachael Taylor from Professional Jeweller and representing the BJA National Committee, Vanessa Burkitt from Catherine Jones, Sarah Jordan and Cindy Dennis Mangan. The judges commented that many of the entries had taken the theme – The Graceful Modernisation of the Monarchy – and produced very diverse yet interesting designs.

Pledges and donations have been and continue to be received from our generous member firms and we have an excellent ‘pot’ of materials from which the winning brooch can be manufactured. Lonmin has generously pledged up to 60g of platinum and other mines across the British Isles are

Shortlisted designs are now available to view and be voted on via the BJA website and at the BJA stand during IJL (2nd-5th September). The winner will be announced at lunchtime on the last day of the show. The brooch will be gifted to the Queen after being displayed at a BJA event at the House of Commons in late November To vote visit: www.bja.org.uk/Jubileevote or visit the BJA stand no. J120 at IJL.

Harriet Bedford

Kasun London

donating small quantities of rare English Scottish, Irish and some Welsh gold, which may also be incorporated in to the design. Diamonds, both white and coloured, have been pledged and monetary donations are still coming in to help cover the cost of some additional diamonds.

36 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Lynsey Pluck

| BJA Feature

COLOUR

me beautiful he BJA’s newly elected chairman Gary Williams, is particularly keen to understand the views and needs of its very diverse membership by visiting as many of them as he can during his tenure. One of the first in his sights is RE Morrish, a family jewellery business situated in the heart of Birmingham’s renowned Jewellery Quarter, which specialises in antique, Victorian and vintage styles, but also contemporary, Celtic, gents, Masonic, gem set, diamond set and solid patterns. When Williams asked the company’s MD and founder Bob Morrish how he first got involved in the jewellery business, he was surprised to learn that the jeweller started out on his own at the tender age of 18. Today Morrish’s love of coloured stones and his proximity to dealers and setters in the quarter has enabled him to build a clientele

who appreciate British made quality with a fast turnaround. Bob will be one of the judges of the prestigious F Hinds competition for both student and trade entries and his company will make up the winning designs. Established in 1964, RE Morrish is still very much a family concern with his wife Anne (a partner in the business) and daughter Rachel working alongside him (as well as the occasional help from Max, a very young

There are very many BJA members creating inspirational designs using coloured gemstones as their focal point. Here we highlight just a few of them, including a little inside information on fine jewellers RE Morrish.

Andrew Geoghegan Andrew’s aim with the Reflect range was to create a ring in which the stone is set slightly lower than in conventional rings and in this way one must look down into the setting. By creating this ‘space’ or ‘hollow’ in which light is reflected from diamond to zircon there is a feeling of peering into a pool of light, colour and reflections! Raspberry Zircon and diamonds RRP: From £3700 www.andrewgeoghegan.com

RRP: £1,000-£3,000

grandson). An active member of the BJA, when he was asked which of its services he appreciated the most Morrish highlighted the extremely useful Confidential Credit Letter – which gives members a heads up on bad payers – as well as the discounted carnets which are made available to the BJA via Birmingham Chamber of Commerce. “We in the jewellery industry can get carried away with the glitz, glamour and high-profile branding of it all and in doing so are in danger of losing sight of the backbone of the trade,” said Williams after his visit. “RE Morrish and its ilk proves that this important hard core of British jewellery designers and manufacturers, without the aid of huge marketing budgets, is very much alive, well and kicking.” RE Morrish will be exhibiting at this year’s IJL on stand I90. Visit: www.remorrish.com

Something to say about the BJA? Email Gary Williams at: chairman@bja.org.uk

38 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

International Gemstones As one of the largest suppliers of rubies, sapphires and natural coloured diamonds in the UK, International Gemstones has put its customers’ needs at the centre of the business by carrying a range of better quality rubies and sapphires – from very small calibrated rounds, to very large single stones. For more information visit: www.thegembank.com

Gecko The new Elements Gold 2013 collection introduces a myriad of stones in an array of beautiful colours from the subtle opalescence of moonstone to rich opaque turquoise. This Peridot set showcases the luminescent beauty of olive cabouchon stones, embraced by a delicate ring of diamond pave RRP from £96 www.geckojewellery.com

| BJA Feature

Tomassa These exotic pieces from the Firefly Evenings collection feature an array of colourful cabouchon gemstones including amethyst and peridot. The contrasting colours sit pronounced among 85 brilliant cut diamonds and 18ct yellow gold creating individual swirls of light. RRP £1,500 www.tomassa.com

Muru Muru’s Monaco collection, in sterling silver or gold vermeil, features coloured stones with chequerboard cuts including a variety of icecream coloured stones that complement the trend for muted pastel tones this season. Gemstones include blue jade, amazonite, rose quartz and purple jade. RRP £36-£120 www.murujewellery.com

Rodney Rayner Ltd Rodney Rayner has won the award for Best Design in Colour at the COUTURE Awards in Las Vegas four out of the 10 times he has been a finalist! This year the Via Roma collection caught the judges’ and buyers’ eyes. The ring is made in 18ct. rose gold and set with white and champagne diamonds and yellow and orange sapphires, with individually cut centre stones of smoky quartz and citrines. RRP £10,920.00 www.rodneyrayner.com

Holts Jewellery Making a luxurious statement is this deep purple amethyst cocktail ring in 18 carat yellow gold setting. RRP: £520.00 www.holtsgems.com

Superfit This CliQ® Caribe cocktail ring with a matte cabouchon chalcedony in 18K yellow gold features Superfit® shank technology for a custom and comfortable fit. RRP £4,365: www.superfitinc.co.uk

40 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Babette Wasserman This sterling silver, gold plated Glitter Starlight ring is hand-set with Swarovski crystals, in Greige, Montana, Olivine, Cyclamen Opal & Crystal Bronze. It is also available in sterling silver, rhodium plated with crystals in, Silk, Crystal Golden Shadow, Light Smoked Topaz, Antique Pink & Greige. RRP: £360.00 vwww.babette-wasserman.com

H.Chalfen This show stopping ring has a main draw of a rich 5.96ct octagon cut yellow sapphire set within 182 smaller diamonds totalling 0.69cts. An unusual trellis-inspired design would capture anyone’s attention. RRP £12,500 www.chalfen.co.uk

Alfred Terry Ltd This 18ct white gold ruby and diamond ring is fast becoming a best seller at Alfred Terry. Featured as part of the Jubilee Collection it features 0.19ct H SI quality diamonds and a 7mm round ruby. Also available in sapphire and emerald at RRP: £1,450 www.alfredterry.com

www.bastian-group.com

German design since 1974

bastian GmbH & Co. KG · Phone: +49 (0)421 33 85 - 555 · E-Mail: info@bastian-inverun.com

Come and experience true German Design: IJL 2012 | Earls Court | 2 – 5 September | Savor Silver Booth G 160

WWW.MARC-O-POLO.COM

| Feature

Brand Profile G McKenzie As it launches another new brand, there’s more to silver jewellery business G McKenzie than you might imagine, as Belinda Morris finds out. hen Poonam Agarwalla moved from India to the UK and then started selling jewellery from a suitcase 25 years ago, it’s unlikely that she envisaged a time when her fledgling business would be showcasing its wares from one of the largest stands at a major trade fair. Even when she started to supply the high street fashion chain Oasis with costume jewellery for all its branches, she probably didn’t imagine such a future scenario, given that she was still operating from home at that point in time. However, from just such an acorn has grown the oak tree that is G McKenzie, an umbrella business encompassing some of the best-known silver jewellery brands in the UK. From out of that suitcase emerged a silver trade catalogue (no minimum orders or re-orders) allowing retailers – whether jewellers, gift shops or fashion boutiques – to apply their own branding and prices to hand-picked lines. And in the course of time that much-utilised catalogue paved the way for G McKenzie’s own brands. As he gallops through a potted history of the company, ticking off the familiar names as he goes, sales and marketing director

Precious Virtue

42 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Steve Austin (who is also the in-house graphic designer) admits that many people are unaware of just how much there is to G McKenzie. Exactly how far the north London-based business has come in 25 years is exemplified by its six key brands – but there are three collections in particular which, according to Austin, provide the main focus: Virtue Rings, White Ice and the recently introduced Virtue Exquisite. He and the team are particularly excited about the latter, and with good reason – it’s quite a departure from the G McKenzie norm. A preview of the line at The Jewellery Show in Birmingham at the beginning of this year, followed by a full collection unveiling at the new sister show at Somerset House, London in June, was so successful that Austin was prompted to sign up to the Harrogate trade fair after a gap of 15 years or so. It seems that jewellery retailers have taken rather well to the new look. As with all G McKenzie jewellery, the new Virtue Exquisite line is made from sterling silver, but then, creating a real point of difference, the pieces – primarily bangles and bracelets – are plated in rose, yellow or chocolate gold or black or standard rhodium. Add to this the fact that the pieces are all made in Italy (rather than the Far East) and naturally the prices are elevated some way beyond the G McKenzie standard… but not scarily so. “Trade prices are between £7 and £120 – so from £25 at retail for the very fine pieces, which is pretty fair for jewellery that has no base metal,” says Austin. Particularly appealing are the popcorn bangles studded with CZ – a wristful in all the plated colourways offer affordable glamour (well, more affordable than pure gold and diamonds anyway) that has, in my view, a chic subtlety rather than obvious glitz

Virtue Exquisite

about it. While the rigid bangles are closed smartly with a very sturdy magnetic clasp, the fluid, snake-like bracelets fasten with lobster clasps, and roll-on stretch bangles feature pretty diamond-cut silver beads. Add to this roll-call open-ended bangles, disc-theme pendants, chain lariats and necklaces and chain drop earrings – plus free, understated white and gold packaging with every product – and it’s not difficult to understand why jewellers are clamouring for the line. You’d have to be quick though

Virtue Rings

because as with all G McKenzie brands, sales are on a first-come-first-served basis; exclusivity is given to jewellers within their towns or within a certain radius of cities. Not to be outdone by the new kid on the block, the White Ice collection – which first appeared 11 years ago – is bigger than ever this year with 40 new lines having been added to the offer. “We wanted to freshen things up a little for 2012 with new pieces like the ‘Tree of Life’ design and a design that I describe as having a neutron look,” explains Austin, “We’ve also tweaked the packaging to make it more environmentally-friendly.”

As always, every piece of hallmarked sterling silver White Ice jewellery contains at least one brilliant cut diamond. Four years ago G McKenzie introduced the Virtue range, starting – understandably enough – with beads in sterling silver, 9ct gold and decorated with gemstones, crystal, CZ, enamel and glass. From there the line developed further to incorporate the now very popular stacking rings. “For 2012 we’ve added 25 new rings,” says Austin, “but we’ve not discontinued any previous ones, so

However, from just such an acorn has grown the oak tree that is G McKenzie, an umbrella business encompassing some of the best-known silver jewellery brands in the UK. we have a total of around 150 styles now.” This includes the rather more special, made-to-order 18ct gold and diamond stack rings, with variations that encompass black and pink sapphire and ruby and a choice of rose, yellow and white gold. A natural progression from the collectible beads is the range of drops that came next. Hanging from plaited Italian leather cords in a range of colours, the delicate pieces are silver or gold plated, with, occasionally, highlights of crystal, marcasite, freshwater pearls, CZ or coloured stones. Then, to create big statement pieces (but without the big statement price tag) the Virtue Exquisite

White Ice

company added Precious by Virtue. “With the rising price of silver we decided to use gemstones, with silver fixings,” explains Austin. Which leaves the likes of amethyst, citrine, agates, lapis, cornelian, sodalite and tiger’s eye to create the colourful drama, with the palette outlined in the colourarranged catalogue. Highlighting the bold departure is the accompanying packaging – a striking black and magenta combination. As is the case with all of the different collections, the company likes to make things as easy as possible for its retail customers. Besides the complimentary packaging (which is

a very important element of these largely gift-oriented brands) and the secureyet-customer-friendly ring display boxes, point of sale material comes as standard. For instance, as well as posters reproduced to a desired size and with the retailers own logo, the handy little catalogues for each of the six labels are made available to jewellers for their own customers to pore over. The nature of much of G McKenzie’s jewellery is such that it creates a desire to collect and this way the customer can choose her next piece straight from the page. (Thoughtfully the images are near enough life size and the styles captioned with recommended retail prices.) After the first minimum order (£400 in the case of White Ice and Exquisite for instance) a call to G McKenzie’s north London office and said item, if in stock, is despatched the next day – no minimum order required.

The Voice of the Industry 43

Future OPULENT & BAROQUE Dolce & Gabbana

Stylesight Sharon Graubard, responsible for trend analysis at Stylesight explains that there are three definite future directions for jewellery: One direction is opulent and over-thetop, with inspirations from art movements from the Italian Renaissance and French Baroque and Rococo eras, to 1930s Deco and 1940s Surrealism. These use yellow or pink gold, lots of filigree, giant stones and flower shapes, as well as some cameos, Dali-esque eyes and bejeweled lips, a la Lanvin’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection..

FLOWERS Michael van der Ham

One of the highlights of the seminar programme at IJL next month – and one that is always well-attended year after year – is the talk on up-and-coming jewellery trends. Once again leading trend forecasting agency Stylesight will be revealing its take on the important developments to expect for 2013 and here, along with further design direction insights from Swarovski’s Gem Visions and fashion intelligence gatherer WGSN, is a taster of things to come…

44 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Another is raw and elemental, almost ancient in feel, but with a punk edge. Here we see blackened or hammered metals, heavy chains, raw crystals, and pyramid shaped gems. There is a tribal warrior feeling in breastplates, wide cuffs and big, statement-making rings. Gothic crosses re-emerge as well. The third direction is clean and modern, with clean-brushed metals, sleek shapes, and modernist artisanal techniques that suggest the sculptural designs of the 1960s and 1970s, but the effect is not retro – it is timeless and elegant.

Trends We will be seeing more pale stones – particularly opals, but also white topaz, rock crystal, quartz and chalcedony. Coloured gemstones like topaz and tourmaline are often mixed or set with precious stones, especially diamonds. The classic jewel tones return, particularly combinations of pinks, violets and reds, or greens and blues. Yellow, brown and amber tones are beautiful for autumnal looks. Both faceted cuts and cabochon stones are key, along with sliced effects and carved or incised stones. Inspiration from nature gets more dramatic and gutsy, with insects and winged creatures, all kinds of flowers including curvy lily shapes, birds and starbursts. Animals come into jewellery, with snakes continuing to be strong, as well as lions and gargoyles. Pearls are used in new ways; they can be set in sleek, modernist ways, mixed with raw stones, used in clusters, and in mixed colours. We are also seeing ancient materials like woolly mammoth ivory, petrified wood, buffalo horn and lava, used in contemporary luxe ways. Metals are worked into swinging tassels and flexible mesh, bringing grace and fabric-like sensuality to yellow or rose gold, platinum, titanium and rhodium.

SWAROVSKI GEM VISIONS Presented by jewellery writer and consultant Vivienne Becker, Gem Vision’s trends for 2013 comprised five key themes: Origin: In meditative mood, this gentle, quiet, low-colour look encapsulates the luxury of comfort and serenity through a style of modern minimalism, expressing the quest for inner balance, harmony and life in the slow lane. The pale palette is inspired by ‘Northern hues’ – the colours of stone and natural earth-tone dyes. Cuts are sensual and generous or raw and rough-hewn.

RAW ELEMENTAL Chanel

There is a tribal warrior feeling in breastplates, wide cuffs and big, statement-making rings…

ORIGIN Jenny Lee

Goddess: Celebrating modern ‘womanity’ – powerful, sensual and exotic, travelling the Silk Route, from Byzantium to India, paying homage to the goddesses of near-Asia,

CLEAN & MODERN John Rocha

GODDESS Sho Fine Jewellery

The Voice of the Industry 45

Future Trends

new materials and processes, generating a radical visionary space-age style, between science, design, astronomy and mathematics. Clean pastels are balanced here by fresh sharp tones for geometric cut stones. For 2013 Swarovski Gems™ launches Zirconia Fancy Diamond Cuts, the third in a trilogy of innovations conceived as part of the Pure Brilliance concept. There are five different fancy cuts, each capturing the perfection of the diamond and each of the five – Square Princess, Marquise Diamond, Pear Diamond, Oval Diamond and Baguette Princess – combines cutting technology with its own personality.

TAKE TIME Stephen Webster

encompassing the growing Arabic and Ottoman Orientalist influences on contemporary design. The palette shows a focus on deep and rich green and amber tones for cabouchon, sculpted and engraved stones. Take Time: Tinged with the last vestiges of nostalgia for a faded elegance, for the leisured lifestyle of a lost era, its savoir vivre and its savoir faire, this trend rediscovers family heritage, through a style characterised by a dark, poetic melancholy and a sense of the sacred. Colours include charcoal, smoky greys, carbon blue, deep purple and ghostly white. Toxic Attraction: The fast-growing wealth, power and influence of Asia nurtures this extreme style of modern Asian fusion glamour, passionate and audacious, inspired by traditional costume, balanced between attraction and repulsion. Vibrant, fruity colours plus blood red, shocking pink and intense jade green speak of danger and sensuality. Outer space: A contemporary space Odyssey, pushing boundaries through new technology and augmented reality, exploring

46 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

A contemporary space Odyssey… generating a radical visionary space-age style, between science, design, astronomy and mathematics.

TOXIC Tomasz Donocik

OUTER SPACE Harry Hornby

Future Trends

EVERYDAY HEIRLOOMS Katie Hillier

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Idiomaticâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; exemplified: a photo taken of a passer-by on the street wearing jewellery and clothing perfectly demonstrating the trend

Idiomatic celebrates the uniqueness of regional cultures and of the communities that shape them. Pieces in this trend bring to life the customs, symbols and style of particular regions and the cultures in a progressive, rather than overly sentimental way. In particular we look at the culture and traditions of Eastern Europe from Bulgaria and the Ukraine to the Baltic states of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. The highly

WGSN Accessories editor Jacqui Ma has identified three key jewellery trends for the next season: Wonderlab, The Everyday Heirlooms and Idiomatic. WonderLab creates a pathway through the jungle of modern science and technology. It lets us into a secret visual world that once was fantasy but is now real. Products

WONDERLAB Chorera Pasionae

48 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Everyday Heirlooms looks at everything that makes reality today; the new and the not so new, the jarringly ugly and the achingly beautiful.

have an infectious beauty, where materials determine form and experimentation has unexpected results. Elements are put under the microscope revealing ornate patterns and structures unseen to the naked eye. Everyday Heirlooms looks at everything that makes reality today; the new and the not so new, the jarringly ugly and the achingly beautiful. It is all about looking at the world with a new appreciation of that which we previously may have cast aside. By mixing the past with the present and the beautiful with the mundane, a new perception of reality is formed. In this trend materials are clean and honest and pieces are utilitarian and simple with minimal embellishment.

IDIOMATIC Folkish earrings

personal occasion pieces mix together hard and soft elements and materials and processes local to particular regions. This trend is about honed craft born out of tradition and history.

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The Voice of the Industry 49

Showâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Promise

IJL, the luxury showcase of the latest jewellery designs and developments, is set to shine as it brings the best in the industry together next month. Image: Lara Bohinc palladium jewellery

IJL Preview | ndoubtedly a key date in the buying calendar, International Jewellery London (Earl’s Court, 2nd-5th September) promises to really pack a punch this year. With more new exhibitors than ever before (129+), and top brands and designers returning, the event will provide the perfect chance to see the most talked about new and established contemporary and classic jewellery collections from leading British and international designers and manufacturers.

Iconic brands and hot new designers The 2012 show will open with a new luxurious look and feel, with everything from fine jewellery to the latest fashion ranges. Visitors can stroll down the Boulevard, studded with star brands and designers such as Fei Liu Fine Jewellery, Richard Hans Becker and Heinz Mayer. Stuart Moore will return this year on his own stand on the Boulevard following his successful debut in 2011. As always, regular catwalk shows will add to the glamour of it all. A new Watch Trail around the show will highlight watch brands, as well as jewellery companies with watch lines. Brands include Bering Time Ltd, Since 1853 (Torgoen Swiss and Revue Thommen), Festina, Erhard Junghans, Storm and BQ Watches (Rolex, Cartier, Breitling, Omega and Patek Phillipe). New to the UK and being launched at IJL by Unique Jewelry is the Candino Swiss watch brand (E129). Peter Carmichael, business development director of Since 1853, said: “We’re delighted to be exhibiting at IJL for the third year in a row and will be showing at least five watch brands never seen before. Combined with the launch of the new ‘Watch Trail’ it promises to be a fantastic show. We have been building and developing our business plans around the IJL show this year and we’re now counting down the days until it opens!” Among the many product destinations, the Design Gallery and Designer Brands areas are particularly set to impress, creating an intimate setting for buyers and retailers to talk to designers and see their new launches. Dinny Hall, whose fan-base includes Kate Winslet, Samantha Cameron and Alexa Chung, will be showcasing for the very first time. She joins a line up including Amara, Rachel Galley, Sho Fine Jewellery, Deakin & Francis, Andrew Geoghegan and Babette Wasserman.

Perennially popular with buyers and press people are the Bright Young Gems and KickStart stands at the show, as these initiatives identify a selection of the hottest new designers in their infancy. The former have been selected by a panel of leading fashion and jewellery editors who have tipped them for success, while the KickStart designers have been handpicked by the IJL team and the British Jewellers’ Association. “We love the fact that IJL is continuing to support and encourage new designers – they are the life blood of our industry and keep our customer offering fresh and interesting,” says Val Trotter, director of Pebbles. “Events where we meet the people behind the jewellery are so important for retailers like us who don’t stock big mainstream brands; our customers really appreciate the fact that we can tell the story of the designer – it makes the purchase so much more personal and therefore more meaningful.” A sure sign that KickStarter, as a concept, works is when designers return to the show under their own steam a year or two later. Sian Bostwick, now in her third year at IJL and Mirpuri (a 2011 Kickstarter) are cases in point.

Hero Metals IJL will be a celebration of metals this year. One of the show highlights will be the Platinum Experience hosted by Platinum Guild International (PGI). For the first time ever PGI is presenting an exhibition which showcases the unique heritage of platinum. Through interactive technology the exhibition tells the story of the qualities of this luxury metal. The Platinum Trail will also reveal some of the best in platinum jewellery – for instance Sarah Jordan’s Lonmin Design Innovation Award-winning pieces along with her two new designer collections. (C71) Not to be outdone the International Palladium Board will present a seminar on the future of palladium before meeting visitors on its own stand to talk about the strengths of the metal. To add weight to the argument, the stand will demonstrate the various designer collaborations that the Palladium Board has undertaken recently. These include two collections by Lara Bohinc, a fine jewellery line with diamonds and South Sea pearls, inspired by architectural structures and her Collision Collection using black onyx. Another collaboration on display

Elements Gold

The Voice of the Industry 51

MaĂŽtre Horloger â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Les Genevez depuis 1884 For further information please contact Ferndale UK Limited on tel: 01403 790902 www.edox.ch

IJL Preview | Best from around the world As ever, national pavilions provide the chance for IJL visitors to see some of the best international jewellery talent. Among others, the Netherlands will be represented for the first time this year with the Dutch Design Pavilion. A must-see at the show, the collective will showcase high quality, unique handmade gold and silver jewellery. Silver Willow

And that’s not all folks… is with students from Central Saint Martin’s with winning and finalists’ designs. Added to this the Silver Promotion Service is sponsoring the Inspiration Theatre, which will be hosting a range of seminars and, of course, a dazzling array of designer brands such as Nada G, Imogen Belfield and Alfred Terry will also showcase collections featuring gold jewellery.

Seminar highlights Finding time to fit it all in might be an issue, but as ever IJL has an impressive range of trade-related seminars taking place, with industry gurus and experts providing tips and tools to maximise revenues, save costs and generate ideas to set you apart from your competitors. The busy programme can be viewed online before the event so that you can plan ahead. Highlights include: • Callum Watt, aka Maketh-The-Man, discusses the future of blogging • PureJewels’ brand manager Jayant Raniga and his industry panel debate ‘Brand or Retailer?’ • Top insights from The Retail Champion, Clare Rayner • A Thomson Reuters expert on the gold survey and forecast for 2013 • The Great Debate • Martin Rapaport reports on the diamond market in his popular annual seminar • A look at upcoming trends from leading trend forecasting agency Stylesight • An evaluation of the current international jewellery markets, featuring the designer Fei Liu • The Silver Promotion Service looks at the silver market • Presentations by market experts at leading research company GfK See the full programme at: www.jewellerylondon.com/seminars

Visit Brown & Newirth (G61) to hear more about the £10,000 honeymoon competition that the maker of bespoke wedding and commitment rings is launching with selected retailers. Until December 31st this year customers purchasing a hand-made Brown & Newirth wedding ring can enter the prize draw to win a luxurious honeymoon at the Banyan Tree Seychelles Hotel. If you need to improve your product photography head to Mode360 (C109) which offers devices for online sellers who need to create standard pack shots, as well as 360° and full 3D animations of products. The reasonably inexpensive machines are efficient and simple to operate and fully controlled by a PC and now compatible with Macintosh systems as well as Windows. Those looking to add an exciting new dimension to their jewellery might be interested in Weston Beamor’s latest piece of high-tech equipment launching at IJL. The desk top 3D scanner, which is more usually found in the dental industry, creates a high resolution image file of the object. Once scanned the 3D replica can be manipulated in the CAD software. For example, the original can be mirrored to create a pair of cufflinks, or scaled in size to

Fiorelli Silver

make a pendant or charm. The resulting CAD model can then be used to create a perfect replica in either wax or resin using Weston Beamor’s rapid prototyping service. (G141) And when pacing the aisles becomes too much… take a seat. “Everything at IJL is designed to enhance the visitor experience. There are plenty of places around the show to network and relax, including around the stylish setting of the newly designed Boulevard Bar, IJL’s new networking space on the forecourt, the Garden Café and the Design Gallery Bar,” says event director Sam Willoughby.

An example of 3D design by Weston Beamor

The Voice of the Industry 53

| IJL Preview

KickStart

2012

The KickStart initiative is an IJL/BJA project to help mentor and show up-and-coming talent. This year’s carefully curated selection of KickStarters will once again bring inspirational design to the Design Quarter of the exhibition. “We are particularly impressed with this year’s KickStarters. Every single designer selected has shown not only fantastic creativity and skill but also, and importantly, a great commercial awareness,” says Val Trotter, director of jewellery retailer Pebbles. Here’s a preview of those names to watch.

FLAVIE MICHOU

Flavie developed her design skills in Parisian workshops, making pieces for brands such as Tiffany, Chanel and Cartier to name a few. Now from her London workshop she creates unique yet affordable collections. www.flavie-michou.com

MANDANA OSKOUI

Mandana’s work is inspired by formations, sequences and architectural forms found in minerals and rocks. Since graduating she has developed her organic style and will be launching a new collection at the show. www.mandanaoskoui.com

IMOGEN BELFIELD

DE ANNA KIERNAN

Through specialised hand carving techniques Imogen creates pieces in textured metals, with an organic twist and incorporating porcelain. Her collections are often embellished with clusters of nuggets, glinting green emeralds, ocean blue sapphires and luxuriant crimson rubies that sit deep in the natural crevices of gold, silver and bronze – all reminiscent of the precarious boulders of coastal landscapes. No stranger to IJL or publicity Imogen was selected for Bright Young Gems last year. www.imogenbelfield.com

De Anna trained as a goldsmith from the age of 17 prior to studying architecture at Central Saint Martins. Influenced by the clean lines of modernist architecture and drawing on the natural contours of the female body, her jewellery has a minimalist aesthetic with a focus on subtly framing the body. www.deannakiernan.co.uk

54 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

CLARICE PRICE THOMAS

Clarice’s jewellery combines her interests in machinery, movements, mechanisms and antiques with an elegant design philosophy. Her debut collection, ‘Time’, has been heavily inspired by the unseen world inside clocks and watches. Her innovative style has already won her awards this summer. www.claricepricethomas.com

| IJL Preview

QUARTER ANGEL ROS MILLAR

Ros Millar creates diverse ranges including her organically inspired gold and silver cuttlebone cast jewellery and her glamorously gothic looking ‘Black & Rose Growth’ collection. At IJL she will launch a new collection, ‘Meteor’, which will gleam with sparkling rose and white rhodium gold plate alongside champagne diamonds discreetly set and hidden within each piece. www.rosmillar.com

MYIA BONNER

A recent graduate of Middlesex University, Myia's delicate yet bold collections explore her interest in the traditions of diamonds. Myia reinterprets this most coveted stone and redesigns each cut to create her signature facet design. www.myiabonner.co.uk

LESTIE LEE

ANNALOUCAH FINE JEWELLERY

Lestie specialises in sterling silver and gold vermeil with coloured stones and precious stones and all her pieces are hand-made in London. Her instinctive relationship with natural materials helps her create these unique pieces. www.lestielee.com

Designer goldsmith Annaloucah creates fine jewellery, working with Fairtrade and recycled precious materials. She has participated in numerous high profile brand collaborations, and is now making her collections available to the trade for the first time, as she takes her brand in an exciting new direction. www.annaloucah.com

56 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Jessica Neil will be showing two distinct collections. Firstly the ‘Skyline’ collection, depicting iconic London views, either made in photo-etched silver with contrasting oxidised detail or made in Perspex, where the etching of this lightweight material is very effective at showing the intricate design details. Quarter Angel’s second and newer collection incorporates mixed metals with sparkly stones and feathers. www.quarterangel.com

The KickStart Trend Award This award was launched at the 2011 IJL show and KickStarter Claire English won the coveted prize – a year’s subscription to the innovative trend service Stylesight worth $8,500 USD. Nearly a year on, Claire English said: “I found Stylesight to be a marvellous way to interact with the web and do research. I will be bringing some mood boards created in Stylesight to IJL with me this year when I exhibit with my own stand. These two dimensional ‘visual mind maps’ will enrich and support understanding of what trends my new ‘Tooth & Claw’ collection feeds into. Jane Boddy, Stylesight’s director of Trend Forecasting, said: “At Stylesight, we genuinely feel that IJL is one of the most progressive platforms for jewellery designers to showcase their collections to the media and the industry as a whole. I can’t wait to sit on the panel for the 2012 award and see the innovative work from these exciting new designers on the KickStart stand.”

O R K N E Y

D E S I G N E R

J E W E L L E R Y

Swallows COLLECTION

Inspired by Swallows gracing our summer skies with their breathtaking speed and acrobatic performance

Designed and Made in Orkney, Scotland

COME AND SEE US AT IJL 2nd - 5th September 2012 Stand No. A69 Email: info@sheilafleet.com Tel: (01856) 861 203

www.sheilafleet.com

| IJL Preview

IJL Key Launches ALICE MENTER

Following her launch last year, Alice will be showcasing her best-selling pieces from her signature collection – industrial components reinterpreted as bold jewellery – in new colour options. She will also be unveiling her first foray into ring design. Stand C17

FESTINA AT UNIQUE JIANHUI

Following on from the great success of his ultralightweight wood ‘Next Pasmina’ necklaces, designer Jianhui has introduced two new versions of the concept. One is made of ropes of wool/silk while this chain style is made from fine thread-wrap chain links. Stand D1

58 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Shown here is one of the eight chronograph sports watches that have been launched to commemorate Festina’s appointment as official timekeeper of the Tour of Britain cycle race. Available in two versions: one with a stainless steel bracelet, the other with a rubber strap. Stand E129

IJL Preview |

BROWN & NEWIRTH

BYBLOS AT SINCE 1853

All Brown & Newirth handmade bridal and commitment rings are made in a range of 9ct, 14ct, 18ct, 22ct gold, palladium, platinum and assorted mixed metals. A choice of yellow, red, white or combination colours in numerous widths, weights and sizes is available. Stand G61

This bold and clever watch line by Italian fashion label Byblos (different colour straps revealed under the clear watch face) is one of several timepiece brands that Since 1853 will be showcasing, including Torgoen Swiss, Revue Thommen, Grovana, iTime, Milano and Boxer Milano. Stand J130

ALEXIS DOVE

JERSEY PEARL

‘Joli’ is a perky new approach to pearl jewellery, featuring a single freshwater pearl adorning a bow detail leather strap bracelet, which comes in a range of colours – from bright to muted. To be worn alone or stacked together for maximum impact. Stand G108

JANA REINHARDT

The new Curio range is inspired by cabinets of curiosities that were collected by 17th century explorers. Vintage keys, hearts, buttons, skulls and shells in combinations of silver and gold vermeil all feature, alongside Dove’s precious lines of wedding and engagement rings, pendants and earrings. Stand A61

This London-based, award-winning design duo – a husband and wife, both goldsmiths – is introducing ‘Little Miss Sunshine’, a collection combining whimsy with precious metal and stones for pieces that will become timeless keepsakes. Stand A19

PEARL & QUEENIE TIVON FINE JEWELLERY

As well as new designs in the Tanzanite Royale Collection, Tivon will be showing its new Couture Collection featuring larger gemstones and one-off creations. Shown here is an 18ct white gold fine diamond and rubelite ring from the Sunset Couture line. Stand i80

First time exhibitors design duo Becca Hulbert and Kathy Dyton, who work from a studio in Clerkenwell, London, will be showing two very new collections at IJL. Equestrian Treasures is inspired by ‘the beauty of horses… plus the luck and fortune they bring’ and The Love Story, a feminine line celebrating the power of love. Stand C44

The Voice of the Industry 59

| IJL Preview

GEMEX

AARGAARD

IKURIA

Award-winning Gemex will show its new range of Raphael platinum wedding ringfriendly engagement rings with F/G VS grade size set diamonds. The centre stones start from 0.33 carat, moving up to 0.50, 0.75 and 1.00 carat. However, the company which is well known for its free CADCAM and bespoke services, will be able to modify any of its designs to take any sized centre stone. Stand H38

Murano glass and Swarovski crystals in the Lovelinks line, men’s and ladies’ woven bracelets in a range of colours by From Soldier to Soldier and new charms and bracelets from Story, will all be on show at Aagaard. Stand F11

London-based emerging brand Ikuria (designed by Ikuko Kurahone) will be launching the Catch collection depicting a spider’s web ensnaring diamond morning dew. The necklaces and rings are available in sterling silver or 18ct rose gold set with 0.09 carat white diamonds. Stand C46

HOCKLEY MINT

New this year is Zt Precision Mounts – a project that has been a year in the making. The collection combines elegant, cuttingedge design with ‘time-proven wearability’ and strong, clean lines. Stand H118

KAMARA

BERING

Launched last year this range of crystal-based fashion jewellery includes new pieces featuring mother of pearl saints images with black as well as coloured detailing. Also in the range are stud earrings and rings. Distributed by Dan Jewellers. Stand i1

60 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

In support of the polar bear, Danish watch brand Bering, which launched in the UK last year, has developed three exclusive slim ceramic models as part of its Time to Care charity project. As well as gold, the limited edition watch also comes in a silver tone with either black or white ceramic. 100 per cent of the profit from the sale of these watches goes to the charity. Stand F131

increase your diamond sales now! as promoted and best selling line in 2011 & 2012 superb value 1 carat single stone ring

certificated diamonds astonishing value at well below current market prices

SEE US AT IJL ON STAND H81 H.W. Tankel (Scotland) Ltd, 33A Gordon Street, Glasgow G1 3PF Tel 0141 226 2200 â&#x20AC;˘ Fax 0141 221 3040 â&#x20AC;˘ Email: enquiries@tankel.co.uk www.tankel.co.uk

| IJL Preview

The Yoko collection, created specifically with the UK market in mind, allows retailers to sell premium South Sea and Tahitian jewellery at more affordable prices. Smaller south sea pearls and more subtle mounts still maintain the high standards of quality synonymous with the brand. New for IJL will be the new product display for the mid-range Takara collection, as well as new large round 11mm freshwater strands and Perlissimo, the sterling silver and cultured freshwater pearl line. Stand G41

MIRPURI

Launched at IJL last year Johnny Mirpuri’s sterling silver jewellery brand will include two new lines: Fuego, inspired by silouettes of hot and cool flames and Aguaceros (heavy showers in Spanish) – shown here. The latter comprises silver chains and faceted black onyx marquise stones, with chains of varying lengths either oxidised in graduated sections or with black Swarovski briolettes for a sparkling monochrome effect. Stand D41

SHO FINE JEWELLERY

EURO PEARLS

These Flora earrings are from the new Florabella collection, inspired by designer Sarah Ho’s memories of a flower-filled childhood when she moved from Macau to the UK. In silver or silver with 18ct rose gold vermeil the earrings are embellished with rhodolite, smoky quartz, white topaz and pink pearls. Stand E70

UNIQUE JEWELS

TANKEL

Colourful leather straps with clasps either in gold plate or stainless steel and occasionally adorned with freshwater pearls, are among the new pieces in the Unique Jewels line. Others are in sterling silver, using simple geometric forms to create three-dimensional designs. Stand E121

Longstanding connections with one of the world’s leading diamond producers allows Tankel – which is continuing to see an increasing demand for large stones – to offer ‘superb value at well below current market prices’. Shown here is one of two new patterns being introduced – a cushion cut 1.51 F VS2 0.34 pave. Stand H81

62 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

| IJL Preview

SO JEWELLERY

There will be over 200 contemporary silver jewellery designs from So this year. Each piece is coated with a rhodium finish and designs include silver set with brilliant-cut diamonds, freshwater pearls, amethyst, topaz and a collection of silver cufflinks sometimes set with mother of pearl or black onyx. Stand A81

German watch brand Junghans – established over 150 years ago – will be showing this Aerious Chronoscope model with its pilot watch characteristics. The sporty reinterpretation of the classic style features a black bezel and new dark dial design, as well as ergonomically-formed and distinctive stainless steel pushers. Stand H151

ANDREW GEOGHEGAN

JUNGHANS

This new Chocolate Box ring is a perfect example of the bold and beautiful cocktail rings in the AG collection – in different shades of green tourmaline it features a frame of diamonds. There’s also a version with red, purple and pink stones. Among other show-stoppers will be Andrew’s Facebook Ring (designed with his Facebook likers) and the Bridal collection. Stand A75

SONAL TALGERI-BHASKARAN

The designer behind Eastern Mystic jewellery is launching her own eponymous label at the show. The East-meets-West style that is also clear in her first brand, is now given an architectural slant, merging industrial form and Indian symbolism for bold handmade pieces. Stand C12

THE BRANCH

For 2013 the collection of rosewood jewellery has been further enhanced with coloured stones including dyed blue howlite, synthetic coral, blue quartz and cherry quartz, as well as silver and gold details. Key pieces include rounded bangles, pendants, earrings and statement necklaces. Stand B41

64 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

LUCY Q

Designer and silversmith Lucy Quartermaine will be presenting new pieces from her popular – and playful – Buttons collection at the show, including this striking Button Bangle in highly polished sterling silver. Other designs feature jigsaw pieces, drips, flowers and spiders. Stand C39

ELEMENTS 2013 COLLECTION

Come and see this fantastic collection over a glass of bubbly at Gecko’s IJL stand E31/F31 or contact Gecko’s Sales team now on T: 01376 532 000 or E: sales@geckojewellery.com T: 01376 532 000 F: 01376 532 001 E: sales@geckojewellery.com

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IJL Preview |

GECKO

As ever Gecko will be revealing the new trends from across its many ranges: new materials and textures from Fred Bennett; 60 new modern elegant designs using CZ and Swarovski Elements at Fiorelli Silver; organic pieces in rose, yellow and white gold, featuring diamond set butterflies from Elements Gold and a new personalised engraving range from D for Diamond. Stand E31

LONDON ROAD JEWELLERY

DOWER & HALL

Severine is one of a few new collections that will be unveiled by the design duo at IJL and features pave set black spinel encased in rose gold vermeil. The line includes dainty pendants, beaded or cord bracelets, ear droplets and these long curled earrings. Perfect for Christmas is the Silver Bells collection with silver open work bells as pendants or charms. Stand F89

MISSOMA

In addition to its latest Kew Bugs and Portobello Starry Nights collections, London Road will be showing its new Bloomsbury Tassels as well as the Portobello Vintage line. In rose and yellow gold, the line includes a diamond-set lattice pendant and earrings which reflect the wrought iron work found on the buildings in and around Portobello. The stars of the Starry Nights collection are rose cut diamond pavé-set moon pendant and star pendant with a rhodium plate finish. Stand G151

Following the success of its Maiya range, Missoma has extended the line to include a silver version in aqua chalcedony, lavender chalcedony and amethyst quartz. Also new will be the Talisman collection in amethyst quartz and pink tourmaline quartz with black onyx pave, as well as a capsule pavé collection in colourful sapphire shades on silver. Stand H18

DOMINO

First launched in 2008, Domino’s Rosabella Collection now comprises 82 pieces and IJL will see the unveiling of the updated, trendled line of earrings, pendants, neckwear and wristwear in 18ct white, yellow or rose gold. Cascading stones of graduating sizes and unusual setting styles are a key feature of the latest collection. Stand G141

HOLLER

Among the many names being shown on the three DMJ stands is the Los Angelesbased watch brand Holler – and this will be the first opportunity you will have to view them. Bold and different, the models include funky psychedelics in a wide range of vibrant colours. Stand F39

The Voice of the Industry 67

| IJL Preview

FEI LIU

Known for fusing his Eastern heritage with Eastern influences, Feiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inspiration for his latest collection is the jasmine flower. The line comprises pendants, rings and earrings in black or white mother of pearl accented with CZ and set in sterling silver. Stand G131

MOUNIR

Taking inspiration from the history of his ancestors Mounir is introducing the Phoenician Bangles which feature a variety of gemstones, cut in marquise, cushion and round shapes. Stand E48

MASTERCUT

Art Deco and the classic jewellery worn by Hollywood starlets of the 1930s provides the inspiration for Mastercutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Vintage collection. Complementing the rings are necklaces, earrings and versatile studs that can be worn with a pave bezel for extra evening sparkle. Stand i130

AMORE

Having supplied independent jewellers with gold jewellery for the past 15 years, Amore is now launching new branded Amore Argento Silver as well as Oro Gold collections. The modern designs are rhodium-plated set with gemstones and CZ and both collections are available with complementary packaging and window displays. Stand E149

Regular IJL exhibitor David Peterson is a specialist in carriage clocks, with a wide range in both quartz and eight-day mechanical variations. Models are in 24ct gold or chrome plate on solid brass, with the company offering onsite dial naming facilities. Stand i150

68 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

FARAH QURESHI

DAVID PETERSON CLOCKS

Farah will showcase a micro collection of rings incorporating stones such as blue moonstone matched with champagne diamonds, green peridot and pink tourmaline. Also showing is the Lady L collection with stones such as rose quartz, pink tourmaline, black diamonds. Stand B1

| IJL Preview

ALFRED TERRY

Launching at IJL is the 1909 Origins Collection – a range of 12 diamond rings in gold and platinum mounts – that celebrate the birth of the London mount maker. Also at the show will be the Portamento line of stacking rings using white and black diamonds, various coloured stones and set in white, rose and yellow gold as well as enamel in black, white, navy, pink or purple. Stand H109

KLESHNA

Luxe Glamour is one of two new collections to be unveiled by Kleshna at IJL this year. Shown here is the Art Deco architecture of New York-inspired Major Liberty necklace, featuring angular crystallised jet columns combined with Swarovski Element crystals and finished in sterling silver. Stand B39

ARABEL LEBRUSAN

Designer Arabel’s new Lace Collection features an intricate structure that offers a modern take on lace-making. In particular her inspiration derives from English Bedfordshire lace patterns and its history for this 14-piece line. Arguably most striking are the two-tone pieces in a mix of 18ct gold vermeil with either black rhodium vermeil or sterling silver. Stand D42

DINNY HALL SUSHILLA

The four cocktail rings in Sushilla’s Daisy collection will be shown in new colourways this year. The four faceted stones set alongside smaller stones are of contrasting hues and finished with a cluster of diamonds in the centre. Stand C11

NIKKI LISSONI

Showing along with other international names (such as Wize & Ope and Morellato) on the DMJ stand is designer Nikki Lissoni who creates jewellery in silver and rose and yellow gold plate, including these hand-finsihed coins which create interchangeable necklaces. Stand F49

70 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Showing at IJL for the first time, Dinny Hall will unveil some bold additions to her Almaz collection, which symbolises strength and endurance while maintaining a sensitivity to shape and form. Also new is the new Ying Yang collection – simple fluidity and elegance at its essence. Stand E78

| IJL Preview

NOMINATION

Paradiso is a new collection of ornate pendants, the signature piece of which depicts the gates of Paradise. Created in stainless steel and highlighted with Swarovski zirconia the Italian-made collection comprises necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Stand F121

MARTICK

A new modern Murano collection will be among the lines shown by Martick – including a vintage range of necklaces (in limited quantities). The other key theme is ‘woodland’ with forms including foxes, squirrels and swallows. Stand F1

MURU

At IJL Muru is launching over 20 new designs as part of its Talisman Collection. Featuring motifs from modern day life and ancient mythology each piece has a different meaning and comes with a gift card to explain its symbolism. Designs are available in sterling silver or gold vermeil. Stand E21

DECI

CW SELLORS

In hammered yellow gold Deci London’s handmade jewellery is inspired by Byzantine work and features engraved emeralds and warm garnets. Other collections are available in silver, black rhodium plated silver, vermeil and solid gold. Stand C15

Famed for specialising in British stones, CW Sellors will be launching its International Gemstones ranges including Hearts of Barbados, Crystal Caves of Druzy and Arizona turquoise. Shown here though is a new British stone for the portfolio – Preseli Bluestone, of which the inner circle of Stonehenge is composed. Stand G71

DIAMONFIRE

Just launched in the UK, Diamonfire offers an alternative to traditional diamond jewellery, inspired by the glamour of Hollywood greats. Its Zirconia stone (measured in carats) has amazing sparkle thanks to its 57-facet Ideal Cut (which was developed for diamonds) which is also certified according to the same quality and criteria as a diamond. Stand F78

72 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

MANU JEWELLERY

Offering high quality, hand-made short production runs, German jewellery brand Manu is known for its signature simple, contemporary forms in matte precious materials. These silver rings are in sterling silver with 22ct gold and set with gold blue topaz and green tourmaline stones. Stand F118

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T: 0113 3899710 E: gveurope@gemvision.com www.gemvision.com The Voice of the Industry 73

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Feature |

The wolf at the door Jack Ogden former Gem-A CEO considers the challenge of synthetic diamonds. t is said that they first started life as a peanut butter sandwich. Synthetic diamonds, that is – what some call lab-created diamonds and the obstinately obtuse call ‘cultured diamonds’. They are diamonds produced from the same raw material as diamonds, which is carbon – hence the peanut butter sandwich – and they have the same structure on an atomic level and essentially the same properties. The only significant difference is that synthetic diamonds are produced in a factory, not deep in the bowels of the earth over interminably long periods of time. Synthetic diamonds are thus a far cry from the CZs and moissanite that might be used to imitate or simulate diamond. Rationally speaking, synthetic diamonds are a remarkable product, their manufacture a truly great human achievement. But most of the conventional jewellery industry view them as a threat, and a threat they will remain until there are robust ways to separate them from the natural, or, as the more pragmatic might argue, until a cost differential between synthetic diamonds and anything other than

exceptional natural diamonds become unsustainable. Of course there is nothing wrong about marketing synthetic diamonds, just as long as the buyer is aware of exactly what they are getting. And therein lays the challenge – detection.

The prize Ever since the scientists worked out that diamond was just crystallised carbon, they have tried to replicate them. Back in 18th century France there was even a large prize offered for the first person to create a synthetic diamond. There were contenders but no winners; no winners that is until centuries passed, the prize was long forgotten, and the boffins at General Electric Company in America started playing around with peanut butter sandwiches or whatever carbon-based stuff they had hanging around in the lab, and made the first synthetic diamond. Nowadays synthetic diamonds are made in two ways. One process squeezes carbon at very high pressures and temperatures – in essence replicating what happens in nature – and

'How can you tell if it is natural? Photo copyright Gem-A.

the other process builds up diamonds by depositing layer upon layer of carbon atoms. The first are called HPHT diamonds (High Pressure, High Temperature), the others CVD diamonds (Chemical Vapour Deposition). Both types of synthetic diamond are now being produced and are entering the market.

The wolf Back in the 1950s one observer described the spectre of synthetic diamond hitting the jewellery trade as the wolf at the jeweller’s door. You should be able to hear him howling now. Synthetic diamonds weighing much more than about three quarters of a carat or so are still rare – for now – but smaller ones are

If you think your 40 years of diamond-dealing experience gives you some sort of sixth sense in spotting synthetics, you are deluding yourself. increasingly common, both loose and set. For example, the GIA in Hong Kong recently reported being sent ten undisclosed CVD diamonds all weighing around a third of a carat and in the F - H colour range. The GIA stated that their appearance was comparable to top-quality naturally-grown diamonds. The lab could detect them, but the average dealer would not be able to. In India, a huge centre for diamond cutting, a special committee has been established to help ‘stem the flow’ of undisclosed synthetic diamonds. One impetus for this was the submission of 600 undisclosed synthetic diamonds to a lab by an Indian company.

The Voice of the Industry 75

| Feature These are said to have ranged in size from 0.3 - 0.7 carats, were mostly of F to J colour and of VVS – VS clarity. In China the National Gemstone Testing Center issued a warning after jewellery set with undisclosed CVD diamonds each weighing about 0.4 carats was found, seemingly unknowingly set by the manufacturer. As this all shows, a well-equipped lab with suitably trained and experienced staff can detect synthetic diamonds but there is no

The sad truth is that you are now taking a gamble when you buy a diamond or diamond set jewellery without reliable justification to accept it as natural. There are not that many synthetics on the market yet so the odds are on your side that you probably won’t buy a synthetic diamond without knowing it, unless you are buying from crooks. But the odds are shortening all the time and now is the time to decide what assurances and supporting paperwork

If I was a cartoonist, I’d draw a jeweller dressed as Lord Nelson looking at a diamond with his loupe held to his blind, patch-covered eye saying ‘I see no synthetics’. simple, click-a-switch, detection method for the dealer and retailer to use. Assuming you have some training, there are some warning signs, but there is not a universal, foolproof test you can do in your shop or office, and there isn’t one on the horizon. If you think your 40 years of diamond-dealing experience gives you some sort of sixth sense in spotting synthetics, you are deluding yourself.

What now? Many jewellers buying diamonds probably still carry on as they have done for years, hoping that fate smiles on them or, perhaps in a few cases, being in blissful ignorance that there is a problem at all. If I was a cartoonist, I’d draw a jeweller dressed as Lord Nelson looking at a diamond with his loupe held to his blind, patch-covered eye saying ‘I see no synthetics’.

you want from your suppliers. Now is the time to decide what size a diamond has to be before you buy it only with a reputable lab report or at a price that reflects the expense you will incur getting the necessary reassurance that it is natural (and a moneyback guarantee if it is not). And the time to decide what training you or your staff need.

Testing times I don’t want to scare you, but the most logical advice I can give you is that you base your buying price for diamonds under a carat (for now), loose or in jewellery, on the assumption that they are synthetic and will cost money to test, unless you have robust enough reason to stake your reputation on them being natural. In practice that might be a bit harsh for now, but start getting used to the concept.

'The SSEF Diamond Spotter will help identify if a diamond is a type that may potentially be a CVD synthetic. Photo copyright SSEF.

The diamond testers used by the trade, even the latest and sophisticated Multi II shown here, will not identify synthetics. Photo Gem-A.

Can you simply trust your suppliers? That is up to you, and how much you can find out about the robustness of the processes they have set in place, but always remember that at the end of the day it is your reputation that is at stake. You don’t need me to list the names of the major labs that have the best reputation in spotting synthetics, but do be aware that not all of the smaller labs have the equipment or expertise to be fully effective in this area. So ask them about their procedures and read the small print carefully. When a lab says a diamond is natural (or not) it is merely an opinion; when you sell the stone and write or imply that it is natural you are guaranteeing that it is. There is a good rule of thumb here – always choose a lab that has a reputation as good as or better than yours. For more about Gem-A and the courses and seminars it offers on diamonds and other gems visit: ww.gem-a.com. Gem-A also operates a take-in service for GIA laboratory services relating to diamonds including grading, testing and batch testing.

76 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

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The Voice of the Industry 77

| Legal Jeweller employer is the first owner of the copyright. In the case of a commissioned work it is essential that the author assigns the copyright (and other rights) in the work to the commissioner in writing. Care must be taken in the event that a work is created by more than one author (known as ‘joint authorship’) as it will be necessary for all the authors to assign their rights in the work before ownership is fully transferred. Rights of re-sale and enforcement can also be conferred in a licence arrangement. The first question to ask is who created the design? If it was not the person selling it or their employee the purchaser needs to find out how the right to sell the design was obtained.

Copycats revisited The various rights that can arise from jewellery designs, as well as the issues to be considered when buying and selling jewellery, are always crucial. With IJL almost upon us, now is a particularly good time to keep them front of mind, says Sarah Hadland, (partner) and Nicholas Hardy (law graduate) of Boyes Turner rade exhibitions obviously provide the ideal opportunity for retailers to look for new designs that they think will appeal to their customers. If exclusivity is important, as it is for many premium retailers, in addition to purchasing stock, they may want to take an assignment of the rights in the design (usually copyright and Community Design right) from the owner. This will enable them to stop others from selling the work and provides a ‘guarantee’ to customers that they are buying a piece of jewellery which is not available elsewhere. The downside is that taking an assignment will increase the purchase price as the seller will need to be compensated for loss of future sales of its design. Simply buying the rights in a design or taking a licence or even just buying a certain number of pieces for resale should not be the end of the story. This is particularly important when purchasing from a person or

78 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

organisation that is not an established business partner or well known in the industry. Even though a work attracts copyright or design right it may still infringe rights in another work. It is therefore important to ask a few simple questions to help ensure, as far as possible, that products aren’t being bought that infringe the rights of a third party. Who owns the rights in the work? Without formal ownership of copyright in a work, or a suitable licence, a person cannot claim any rights over that work and therefore cannot bring a claim for infringement. Possession of the work does not equate to ownership of copyright in it. The author (or creator) of the work is normally considered the first owner of the copyright in the work, unless it has been created in the course of employment in which case the

Is the work original? If a work has been copied from or inspired by another work there is a risk that it has relied too much on the earlier work and has infringed copyright in it. A useful question to ask, therefore, is whether the work being bought has been inspired by any other work? If it has, if at all possible a comparison should be made of the two and, if the later relies too much on the earlier one, proceed with caution. Is the work still protected? The protection a work receives under copyright law does not last indefinitely. The duration of copyright in a work depends on the type of work in question. The length of protection of copyright in jewellery (as an artistic work) is 70 years from the end of the calendar year in which the author dies. This means that in practice, for most modern designs, the work is likely to still be protected by copyright. However, it may also attract other rights, which will have a shorter duration. For example, the Community Design right lasts for only three years after the work has been made available to the public. A purchaser therefore must be clear about what rights they are buying and whether these are valid for long enough to provide the desired exclusivity? This feature is provided for general guidance only and is not a substitute for taking specific legal advice on an individual basis. You can contact Sarah Hadland on 0118 952 7142, shadland@boyesturner.com or visit: www.boyesturner.com to learn more.

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| BJA Feature

Mixing with

The Jet Set 1880s jet necklace featured in the BJA exhibition

Hamond – which was acquired by CW Sellors, the Derbyshire-based jewellery retailing and manufacturing group, in 1997 – is something of a landmark in the picturesque Yorkshire seaside town of Whitby where it has stood on its imposing corner site at the base of the 190 steps up to the town’s ruined abbey for over 150 years. The shop, decked out in its signature racing green and gold and bedecked with verdant hanging baskets, has – like Whitby itself – an undoubted old-world charm; yet there is absolutely nothing old fashioned about this shop, the W Hamond brand or the jewellery it sells. CW Sellors has expanded and modernised the three storey building in which the shop is situated. This also houses a delightful contemporary-styled cafe which serves light meals throughout the day, and a tastefully decorated and well-equipped flat, sleeping eight people, which is available throughout the year for holiday lets. Also housed on the premises, behind a glass screen at one end of the shop, is a jewellery workshop where the company’s workshop manager, Becky Tucker, plies her skills, resizing rings and creating bespoke

Diamond, Whitby jet and yellow gold bracelet

80 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

W Hamond in Whitby has been selling jet jewellery since 1860 and the stunning antique piece it lent to The BJA for its 125th Anniversary Exhibition – which can be seen once again at IJL – caused a real stir. Mary Brittain went to Whitby to find out more. jewellery for customers while also sorting and polishing the ‘rough’ jet which is at the heart of the W Hamond brand. Jet is an intensely black natural gemstone formed from the fossilisation of the araucaria (or monkey puzzle) tree. It is now extremely rare and a twenty mile strip of coastline, either side of Whitby, is the only place in the whole of the UK where it can be found, although there are some inferior jet deposits elsewhere in the world particularly in Poland and Russia. During the Victorian era, when the Whitby jet industry was in its heyday and employing some 2,000 people, jet was heavily mined. Today however the ‘seam’ is protected because of concerns over coastal erosion and mining is strictly forbidden. Nor can jet be blasted or hacked from the cliffs. It is a truly finite source and one that relies upon a most unusual supply chain. “We rely on local beachcombers and occasionally farmers who find jet in their ditches to bring us supplies,” explains Chris Sellors, the company’s MD. In its raw state the gemstone resembles rather uninteresting grey/brown pebbles or slivers of slate. Looking for it on a local beach was, to my untutored eye, like looking for a needle in a haystack and even Becky, who works with jet all day long, says she has never found any! To test whether or not it’s the real thing you simply rub it across some sandpaper where true jet leaves a distinctive brown line. While most ‘finds’ are small pieces (around 2” across) which have been torn from the cliffs in storms and washed onto the beach, there is still the occasional major discovery. Thanks to a regular local supplier W Hamond is the proud possessor of a veritable jet tree trunk, a huge plank about six feet

Close up of a piece of ‘rough’ unpolished jet

long in which it is possible to see the remains of the tiny creatures that were trapped beneath the tree when it fell all those centuries ago. There are plans afoot, as yet unconfirmed, to make this stunning object the centre piece of a W Hamond garden – naturally complete with monkey puzzle trees – at the 2013 Chelsea Flower show. To reveal the black centre within jet’s rather unappealing exterior you need a diamondedged cutting wheel and plenty of water: a process made to look extremely easy in the skilled hands of Becky Tucker. Within seconds the glorious, shiny interior of the stone was revealed before a light polishing with ‘rouge’ brought an even greater depth and shine. “In the old days the jet polishers in Whitby were known as the ‘Red Demons’ because by the end of the day there were covered in red dust from the rouge,” explains Becky who,

View of the town of Whitby with the abbey on the cliff

after a couple of years with the company, has become so fascinated by jet and so knowledgeable about its history that she now gives regular talks on the topic. These talks are brought to life by W Hamond’s stunning selection of antique jet pieces – all of which are for sale and many of which date back to the early 1860s when, following the death of Prince Albert, mourning jewellery sales were at their height. These include some extremely sizeable necklaces featuring enormous beads and hand-carved decorations, as well as earrings, bracelets and bangles some with price tags of over £2,000.

Silver and jet bands

It is however the contemporary jet designs which really steal the show at W Hamond. The collection, which is ever-expanding, starts at around £159 for a ‘Cross Heart’ pendant set in silver and rises to over £8,000 for an eye-catching necklace in 18ct white gold with diamonds. Some pieces are minimalistic in their design featuring large stones and bold lines; others are much daintier and more

romantic and mix jet ‘Flowers’ and ‘Bubbles’ with diamonds and other gemstones. It would seem that jet has extremely widespread appeal. Shop manager Sally Robinson was particularly enthusiastic about the recent addition of dress and engagement rings into the range as these sell particularly well to couples visiting the town on holiday and looking for a romantic souvenir. At the other end of the customer spectrum are the many Goths who flock to Whitby each Halloween in celebration of the town’s close association with Bram Stoker’s novel ‘Dracula’ which took the abbey above the shop as its inspiration. At this time of the year W Hamond dons a huge exterior spider’s web (it wears snowflakes at Christmas) to get into the mood! It was this web which first caught the attention of the fashion designer, and darling of the red carpet, Scott Henshall. Henshall, who was holidaying in the Whitby area, saw it while already thinking about possible dress designs for the actress Donna Air to wear at the London premiere of The Amazing Spiderman. One thing led to another and after detailed discussions with Paul Barker, head jeweller at C W Sellors, an extraordinary piece of body jewellery featuring a couple of huge jet and silver spiders and a silver spider’s web, to be worn over a miniscule figure-hugging black dress, was created. It is a project which required real craftsmanship, vision and skill. Speaking about the piece Paul – who has been with the company since he was 16 and learnt all his skills on the job – very modestly comments: “It wasn’t really too different to the work we do on a day-to-day basis, taking a customer’s idea of what they want, providing them with

options and advice on how it will work and look and turning that image into a reality. This one just involved a lot more jet, diamonds and chain!” This commission was not the first time that W Hamond has crossed paths with the glitterati. The company’s building provided a perfect backdrop for the 2002 film Possession which features an antique Whitby Jet brooch, worn by the actress Gwyneth Paltrow, as part of its central story line. There was also huge excitement recently when comedian Adrian Edmondson visited the shop for the ITV programme Ade in Britain which looks at the story behind traditional British firms. The programme will be aired in the New Year. “We shall be exhibiting at IJL (Stand G79) this year and look forward to showing visitors our latest pieces and explaining to them this fascinating stone’s continuing and evolving sales potential,” says Chris Sellors.

Donna Air wearing the dress created for the premiere of The Amazing Spiderman

The Voice of the Industry 81

| Insurance Matters

Critical Cover for when disaster strikes Neil McFarlane, MD of TH March explains why Business Interruption Insurance is so important. t is a sad fact that high proportions of businesses affected by major damage, can go out of business within 12 months without adequate insurance. The reasons are not hard to understand – business depends on cash flow. A major fire, or flood, for example, will destroy or severely diminish cash flow until the business can recover. Recovery is not just about repairing the damage; it is also about recovering turnover. That recovery may have to cope with competitors who have taken advantage from your absence for the market to steal your customers, supposedly loyal customers, who may have no choice but to go elsewhere. Business Interruption Insurance replaces the gross profit for the business for the period that the business is suspended by an insured risk, which includes the recovery of customers phase. It is subject to a ‘maximum indemnity limit’, the maximum period of interruption for which the policy will provide cover. While even cover with a short maximum indemnity period is better than none, many businesses select dangerously short maximum indemnity periods, so you’ll need to consider some of the factors which may be involved in recovery from damage. Many of the following steps can be heavily delayed if damage is widespread, e.g. after a major flood or storm, because builders, architects and plumbers amongst others become overstretched:

a) Initially you may be unable to access the site until it or nearby properties are rendered safe b) Liaison periods with insurers, architects and builders to assess the damage c) Decision to repair, demolish and rebuild, or move permanently

82 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Demolition, if necessary, will involve: • Tenders and acceptance • Delays before work begins • Demolition Moving permanently will involve: • Search • Negotiation • Legal delays, possible change of use • Fitting out Major repairs or rebuilding may involve: • Architects and design work • Planning permission • Tenders Construction period and delays: • Before work begins • In finding specialist contractors e.g. for listed buildings, special features or equipment • Local regulations limiting deliveries of materials • Lack of on-site storage • A need for additional works to meet new building regulations • Shopfitting or fitting out of manufacturing facilities, availability of equipment Post construction recovery: • Build up of stock, especially if antique or unique • Recovery of customers Assessing accurately the maximum indemnity period needed by a business is a highly skilled process that usually needs input from local architects or surveyors. However, a few moments thought about some of the above stages in relation to other personal experiences shows that selecting just the minimum 12 month period is very unlikely to be adequate in the event of major damage. Some locations, for example in pedestrian access areas, narrow streets, or worst of all,

shopping centres can significantly extend the period. In some cases, shopping centres have taken up to four years to reopen fully after major damage. A common response by businessmen considering longer indemnity periods is that they would move to temporary accommodation if disaster struck. That can be a good solution, and in the right circumstances one that insurers will encourage, but how can you be sure in advance that suitable accommodation will be available if and when you need it? How will trading from a less prestigious location affect your turnover? You may have to sign a lease for more than 12 months on less attractive terms than you currently pay. Moving may be sensible, but if the location is poor the turnover may continue to be reduced beyond the maximum indemnity period. Extending your maximum indemnity period is likely to be less expensive than you might think. Doubling the indemnity period will not double the premium since the majority of interruptions will be of shorter duration. Business Interruption Insurance may seem extremely complex, but it is well worth discussing with your broker. It may just save your business.

Curteis ‘packages’

Moving with the times… urteis is a very different organisation in 2012 to the one it was 10 years ago. It’s still a craft-based manufacturer with over 30 years experience. What’s new though is the way in which it sees how it fits into the marketplace. The aim of brands is to dominate instore display, which is understandable. What retailers are starting to realise however is that permitting this approach is losing them sales with their regular sellers of chain, earrings and lockets for example, because they’re not being displayed to their full advantage. Curteis’ current campaign is targeted to ensure that customers realise what jewellers have to offer by getting these items back on display. It has two elements, Curteis Packages, which are neat physical displays, and the Curteis Instore campaign, which is entirely online of which more later. The ‘Packages’ include Curteis’ best-selling chain, modern hand-assembled lockets, on-trend high quality silver collection and its most popular earring styles. The company supplies a free POS display unit and free jewellery display blocks. Retailers can also personalise their POS unit to feature the shop name or logo. Ordering the Curteis Packages could not be simpler – simply choose from the packages available (chain, earrings, lockets or ‘fresh’) and telephone Curteis’ sales team on the freephone number: 0800 1956771.

To make the online ordering service faster and easier the website is currently being relaunched. A major attraction is still free postage, which is offered on all online orders. Instant, real-time information on prices, stock availability, delivery, order tracking and much more besides is easily accessible. In response to requests from customers, the company trialled the running of the website with recommended retail prices for

Instore selling campaign

a period last year. It worked extremely well for those who wanted retail priced products, and many items were sold using iPads in their shops. Problems arose when other website visitors imagined that these were the trade prices, and decided they were outrageously expensive! Curteis found itself being torn to shreds on jewellery forums, so sadly this service had to go! Curteis Instore is nothing more than the relaunched version. It can be accessed once visitors have logged on to: www.curteis.com

From there jewellers will be able to display recommended retail prices. The layout is being adapted to fit more devices. It currently works on PC, laptop and 10” tablet, such as the iPad. The new version being worked on, will be useable on 7” tablets and smartphones. It will work in portrait or landscape to suit whatever devices customers choose to work with. A new fibre optic link is being installed and page download time will be under a second for most users. Selling this way will instantly add thousands of products to a shop’s potential sales. In addition retailers will be able to view Curteis’ latest jewellery collections and let your Family charm locket

customers guide you through the trends without having to invest in stock. Also being launched in September is a brand new catalogue which also comes with a wall chart, featuring pendant chain and components. New collections for Autumn include a sterling silver contemporary family charm locket. The ball locket opens to reveal three circle photo frames, complete with frames to take pictures. The rear encasement houses a charm of your choice, including initial, heart, butterfly, star, rose and key charm. Noting that cufflinks are becoming more popular with a younger generation, Curteis is also introducing a brand new collection of 12 sterling silver cufflink designs. Styles include modern stone-set, blackened colour patterns and plain shapes. The existing cufflink range includes fun, novelty, corporate and formal styles, in 9ct gold and sterling silver and all come at excellent price points.

IJL 2012 STAND H141

Sterling silver cufflinks

Curteis Limited, Caia Lane, Ellesmere, Shropshire SY12 9EG Freephone: UK 0800 1956771 ROI: 1800 625163 International +44 1691 690071 info@curteis.com www.curteis.com

The Voice of the Industry 83

| Ethical Jeweller

The height of

Refinement Belinda Morris visits Buxton-based bullion dealer and precious metal refiner Capella and discovers that there’s ethical gold in them thar hills… hould you care to step out of the rear door of Capella’s workshop, you will look across at dramatic Derbyshire hills, a picturesque railway viaduct and, very close up, a field of toffee-coloured cows (no, I don’t know the breed, this is The Jeweller, not Farmers’ Weekly!). It’s an incongruous tableau, given that behind you is the expected scene of heavy machinery (‘mills’ as they are known) along with many and various forms of precious metals that are either waiting to be processed, in process or rolling off the production line. However, the bucolic idyll that provides the backdrop to this gold refining business is, I’d say, rather appropriate, underscoring as it does the principled ethos upon which Capella is run. One of only three such businesses in the UK, last year the company acquired a major feather in its cap by becoming the only Fairtrade and Fairmined gold refinery in the country (and one of just two in Europe).

84 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Admittedly this is still a pretty small part of the company’s business (“less than 0.1 per cent” according to sales director Kevin Bloor) but that’s hardly Capella’s fault. Ethical gold, from a global, never mind UK perspective, is very much in its infancy – as a concept as well as in a physical sense. There’s not much of it around to refine as yet. Nevertheless, the fact remains that the Buxton company has been through all the necessary (and lengthy) checks and is signed up (and pays handsomely for) the annual Flocert audits stipulated by the Fairtrade Foundation to ensure that when the Fairtrade Fairmined gold rush does take off, Capella will be the go-to refinery. “We can refine as much gold as they can throw at us,” says Bloor, “but we haven’t found the demand to be massive because basically there isn’t the supply of Fairtrade gold. In my opinion it was almost launched too soon. As the artisanal mines are producing it they are only managing

to sell to their own country – mainly to control cash flow. The export of it hasn’t really been sorted out yet. The whole thing really needs a relaunch.” Regardless of this, Bloor is certain that Fairtrade Fairmined accreditation is the way to go. “The extra cost of the gold might be a problem, but the difference it makes to the artisanal miners – who have the chance to make a proper living – makes it worth it,” he says. “And for Capella, it’s an extra service, another string to our bow if you like.” Of course, unless you’re being totally purist or pedantic about it, Capella already has that ethical bowstring. “Everything we make is 100 per cent recycled, so we’re just a step down from Fairtrade,” explains Bloor. Indeed, it was through Greg Valerio and ethical jewellers Cred, that the move towards accreditation came about. The company was supplying Cred with products and the subject of Fairtrade Fairmined came up. “We didn’t want to be seen as just jumping on the ethical bandwagon, but we could see that this move would open new doors for us. It was a progression and we would fill a niche in the market,” he adds. Valerio himself has no doubts about the wisdom of the refinery’s decision to go down the ethical route. “Capella have shown the way in the UK in supporting the Fairtrade gold process,” he says. “Knowing

Ethical Jeweller | we have a UK-based refinery that will respect the traceability requirements for Fairtrade Fairmined gold means we have a solid foundation on which to build a UK-wide Fairtrade gold revolution.” The fact that Capella is willing and able to comply with the Fairtrade stipulations, says much about the nature of the bullion dealer and refinery. “We class ourselves as a small and flexible set-up which can react quickly to customers’ needs,” says Bloor. “And when it comes to selling on recycled metals, whether it’s to the smallest companies – including students – wanting

to £40,000 a month.” Which is a lot of money by anyone’s standards. Nothing is thrown away. Rather touchingly there’s even a jar, sitting on a shelf, full of cheap, cheerful and random bits of plastic (mostly charms and beads of the not very desirable variety) that no-one has the heart to bin presumably. Capella is also obliging when it comes to how its customers – pawnbrokers, manufacturers, wholesalers and jewellers – are paid for their scrap. It might simply be cash, or frequently the 99.9 per cent refined silver or 99.99 per cent gold is returned as wire, casting grain, sheet or coiled strips of

“We didn’t want to be seen as just jumping on the ethical bandwagon, but we could see that this move would open new doors for us…” just a few grams, to the largest manufacturers, we don’t discriminate.” The recycling aspect doesn’t end there. An additional service – and one that’s increasingly being called upon these days – is diamond recovery. Once was the time when customers selling scrap precious metals, or sending it for refinement, didn’t expect to see any of their stones again – everything went into the melting pot. Times have changed though – there’s lots more pennies being counted – and Capella carefully removes (through its chemical and electrolytic processes) any stones from a heap of metal and returns them to the customer. “It definitely increases customers’ profits,” Bloor explains. “In the case of one particular large customer, the stone recovery amounts

could be anything from assayed bars and diamond-set jewellery to bench sweeps and residue). In which case Capella will note it and adjust things accordingly. “We’re very honest,” laughs Duncan Marshall, the factory manager. He also explains that because theirs is a small team, which has been working together for a long time, the possibility of making changes to methods of working is always there. In practice this could come down to tweaks in processes that make them more energy efficient, keeping factory overheads down and thus the business is cost-effective. Keeping prices competitive is a key goal. Between them the Capella team has more than 80 years’ experience in the business. Bloor and fellow director Roy Massey worked together at Auro Argento, which was then bought by Cooksons and the factory relocated to Birmingham. Unwilling to make that geographic move Bloor and Massey decided to set up their own business. “There was room in the market for a small company that could supply raw precious metal and materials to the trade,” Bloor says. Then, around six years ago, as the price of gold started to rise, Capella realised that it needed its own supply. “The cheapest thing to do was to buy scrap and refine it ourselves,” he explains. “And then the gold price really went through the roof!” Clearly this is a situation that shows scant signs of changing anytime soon – never has recycling seemed quite so attractive and pertinent, with the ethical feel-good factor thrown in for good measure.

varying widths – whatever a manufacturer or designer might require for jewellery production. And for investors Capella casts individual batches of silver or gold into bars (250gms to 5kgs for silver and 50gms to 1kg for gold) which are then assay-stamped. The Assay Office (Sheffield in this case) plays an important role in the whole refining process. While the staff at Capella have the means (and the expert eye) to check that scrap metal coming in is what the customer says it is (a desk-positioned X-ray machine does a double check), an assay report on a sample will verify the claim (or otherwise). Everything is very upfront and fair – in fact there are the odd occasions when a customer has underestimated the quality and therefore the value of his scrap (which

The Voice of the Industry 85

| Ethical Jeweller

Diamonds – what on earth is happening? In the second part of his feature on diamonds, Greg Valerio explains how a Kimberley Process reform agenda should offer clarity on the issue of tainted stones. n my earlier article (July 2012) I suggested that the raw economics of the diamond supply chain demonstrated that if there is a loss of consumer confidence in the product, due to a lack of Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) reform, a sizable chunk of the monetary value in the industry might suffer. This would have a knock effect right through the diamond supply chain, adversely affecting the diamond producing countries as well as the A list brands who rely on the brand value of the diamond retaining its consumer appeal. What is clear from the ongoing discussions is that we all want the KPCS to succeed. We want the diamond-producing nations of the world, mostly in Africa, to prosper. The wealth that diamonds can bring to benefit the majority as well as to enhance democracy and transparency – and also work towards the eradication of human rights abuses – is not insubstantial. The reform agenda for the KPCS is vital if we are to stop the erosion of its credibility.

86 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

The current Chair (America) is clear that the establishment of a permanent secretariat and the incorporation of human rights into the definitions of what constitutes a blood diamond is one that as jewellers we should be vocally supporting. However with India, China and Russia, as well as the African Diamond Producers Association (ADPA) the

rough and polished, coming into the EU and North America. This would require other measures being introduced to govern any protocols that would emerge, such as EU legislation. Yet to protect our industry from diamonds that are contributing to human rights abuses, this may be the price we have to pay. Additionally, if the KPCS fails to resolve its internal issues, we at least will have a much clearer idea of what needs to happen to clean up the industry. For example, goods manufactured in China will become tainted, as they may contain blood diamonds from Marange. The silver lining here is that, if you cannot trust Chinese-manufactured goods, you will need to manufacture in the UK. Not a bad move if you are a UK manufacturer and certainly a business opportunity. One thing is for sure – consumers will be made aware of the issues and Chinese-manufactured goods may come under pressure. We are not powerless to influence change. The NAG and BJA are active at the moment in exploring the options and choices available to us as an industry. Also they are fully engaged in the broad industry discussions on what the future will look like. In fact what has become clear is that there is a current lack of vision on what we want the UK diamond market to look like, and it is precisely this vacuum of critical leadership that presents us with the opportunity to shape the future and the NAG and BJA are forming that vision as I write. To conclude, I have a series of questions to the KPCS Chair I am waiting a reply on that I will publish on my blog www.gregvalerio.com and www.fairjewelry.org in due course, that I hope will be able to offer even more clarity on the diamond issue.

The NAG and BJA are active at the moment in exploring the options and choices available [and] are fully engaged in the broad industry discussions on what the future will look like. deadlock and mistrust seems entrenched as none of these parties sees any need to change the KPCS. What does this mean for those of us that sell diamonds in our jewellery? It would appear that unless there is a resolution to the impasse, we might be heading for what is being referred to as a KP+ system – a system that would require a higher level of due diligence and traceability on stones, both

I am optimistic that with clear leadership we can create a jewellery market that is not corrupted by diamonds tainted with human rights violations. Greg Valerio is the founder of CRED Jewellery, an architect of certified Fairtrade Gold and co-founder of Fair Jewellery action, a human rights and environmental network of jewellers across seven countries.

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The Voice of the Industry 87

| Security

Securely not Michael Hoare emphasises the tremendous achievements of SaferGems since its launch, and reminds that the NAG’s forthcoming Retail Security Conference will offer vital data on physical safeguards. ack in 2009 when we realised there was a need for something extra to give crime detection in the jewellery sector a boost, we little realised that some three years later we would be looking at such a resounding success. Nor did we realise that police numbers would be so badly strained by austerity measures. But here we are in 2012 with fewer police and little sign of crime diminishing. If anything the dramatic fluctuations in the price of gold has made it more attractive to the dishonest. While some of the private security firms are having a torrid time over the Olympics (and I have my own misgivings about the privatisation of this aspect of public service) I think we have to be realistic about the world we live in and acknowledge that SaferGems is one of the greatest benefits the NAG has initiated.

He was followed in by his mum and dad who were there to provide their innocent non-English speaking little cherub a bit of moral support, when our jeweller jumped up and shouted to security that he recognised mum from one of our alerts and that she was responsible for a jewellery theft this time last year. She was arrested by attending police officers and is now bouncing between various police forces across the North West & North East regions being interviewed for numerous jewellery thefts”. It is this kind of personal involvement that is at the root of SaferGems’ success, and of course the many interactions with front line officers that are too numerous to list here. But before I turn to other matters it is worth saying that we are noticing that members have a greater awareness of the threat of

I think we have to be realistic about the world we live in and acknowledge that SaferGems is one of the greatest benefits the NAG has initiated. The figures for January to June 2012 tend to bear this out. During that period 369 crimes and suspicious incidents were recorded by SaferGems (compared to 293 during the same time period in 2011); 79 alerts were circulated to industry (compared to 90 during the same time period in 2011); 60 alerts and analytical reports were provided to police (not recorded during 2011); this led directly to seven arrests and two convictions. As important, if not more so, we received 59 reports from members that our alerts had prevented crimes against them or others. It is these personal stories that make this work so rewarding. Take this recent anecdote that was related to me by one of our analysts. Apparently, “one of our members was in court a couple of weeks ago (for some unknown reason), when a Romanian man walked into court for a theft from a bookies.

88 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

distraction/sleight-of-hand offenders and as a result we appear to be reducing the number of incidents where items are stolen. We have advised that members always have a last look inside gift boxes, especially when ‘customers’ leave the shop to get money etcetera. There has also been an increase in the number of members reporting incidents of fraud where people are contacting jewellers over the telephone and attempting to purchase high value items with stolen credit cards. We have advised members that if they have any concerns regarding suspect transactions to contact their banks prior to completion. SaferGems website address: www.safergems.org.uk

Retail Security Conference So much for intelligence. Many jewellers are more than a little confused about what physical security equipment is best for their particular type of business. The range of choice, the constant updates and the continuous technological advances make the possibilities even more bewildering when it comes to deciding what suit fits. However, there are some fundamental issues surrounding the standards that apply to safes, glass and alarms that cannot be ignored when choosing security equipment, and that is why the NAG is working with its official insurance brokers T H March to bring you an opportunity to put these standards to the test. The theme of our conference is loss prevention, and the intention is to bring delegates an agenda that explores the theory behind security standards, and gives some graphic practical demonstrations. The event is being held at the Building Research Establishment (BRE) near Watford, which carries out research, consultancy and testing for the construction and built environment sectors. It is also a UKAS Accredited Testing Laboratory and its sister company, BRE Global is an independent approvals body offering certification of fire, security and sustainability products and services. Where better to put security products to the test? With SmartWater Technology and Bandit (UK) Ltd already confirmed as sponsors, and others waiting in the wings, we already have an excellent line up with slots on shop facades, safes, glazing, and alarms, with more to be confirmed. We are planning to pack a lot into the day and by making it free for members we’re expecting excellent attendance. A there is an upper ceiling on numbers because of the nature of the demonstrations involved I advise getting your name down early by contacting Ritu at: ritu@jewellers-online.org

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The Voice of the Industry 89

| Antique Jewellery

Antique JEWELLERY Després – the modern master Jo Young reflects on the life of the French jeweller Jean Després and his influence on modern design. ean Després is a curious character in the world of fine jewellery: one of the most exciting and celebrated designers of the 1920s and 1930s, he enjoyed a career that spanned most of his 91 year life, and yet his name is now not nearly as well known outside of jewellery collectors’ circles as the scale of his innovation perhaps merits.

Early life Jean Després began his life as the 19th century was reaching its end. He was, like so many famous names in the jewellery field, (more or less) born into the jewellery business. Born to Octave Després and his wife Maria Turlin in 1889 in Souvigny, the one year old Jean moved with his parents to the town of Avallon in 1890,

where Octave and Marie opened a shop selling jewellery and objets d’art that same year. In 1898, the year that Jean’s sister Yvonne was born, the family relocated again, this time to a building in the same town, 20 Place Vauban, where the family had their shop and home. So, having been raised above a jewellery store, Jean decided, as soon as the time came, to stay in the family trade. In 1903, when he was still just a young teen, he left Avallon for Paris, to take up an apprenticeship with a silversmith friend of his father’s. Quite how he found life in Le Marais (where the silversmith had his workshop) in turn of the century Paris, after what must have been a comparatively sleepy life in his small Burgundy town is interesting to ponder;

what is known, though, is that he showed great promise in his apprenticeship and a clear dedication to his art. The young man studied several evening courses after work, where he honed his drawing skills, and spent even more of his social time at the Bateau-Lavoire, a famed meeting place for artists, art dealers, writers and theatre folk. Here, Després met and befriended a quite startling list of famous names, including De Chiciro, Vlaminck, Modigliani and Signac, many of whom were an influence on his own burgeoning style. It must have been a very exciting time and place to be young and creative. (In fact, one of these artist acquaintances went on to become Jean Després’s closest friend: the celebrated Cubist artist Georges Braque. Given that Braque was a lifelong artistic rival of Pablo Picasso, it is a quite splendid irony that Després – who himself apparently disliked the Spanish painter and sculptor – became known as the ‘Picasso of silverware’).

The War Like many a fledgling talent at that time, Després found his career brought to an abrupt halt in 1914, at the outbreak of the First World War. He left his jewellery-making apprenticeship that same year, signing up to the infantry as part of a cycling unit (yes, really). He was at the time an accomplished cyclist, having won several races, so there was obvious appeal for the sporting young man; he was, however, later transferred to the air force, initially as a mechanic.

90 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Antique Jewellery | Again, like so many artists and designers before and after him, Després was greatly influenced by his part in the war. In his case, his role in the conflict had a very clear and visible influence on his later creative work; he was shifted from mechanic work to draughtsmanship as soon as his graphic drawing skills were recognised, and it was his experience of drawing the many components of aircraft engines that helped to shape the look and feel of much of his most celebrated jewellery.

Starting the business A second, more personal, tragic event conspired to shape the course of the designer’s life when, in 1919, his sister Yvonne died of the Spanish flu that swept Europe in the years immediately following the end of the war. Instead of returning then to his life in Paris, at the heart of the city’s artistic community, Després returned to Avallon to look after both his family and to work for his family business. He was, at this stage, still only 20. However, despite the stalling of his Paris plans, Després showed the same commitment and ambition in Avallon as he did in the capital. The following year, he opened a workshop of his own at the back of the store on Place

It was his experience of drawing the many components of aircraft engines that helped to shape the look and feel of much of his most celebrated jewellery. Vauban, where he began designing and making his own avant garde jewellery and silverware. He worked incredibly hard, producing reams of drawings for each of his proposed pieces of jewellery and silver.

The Machine Age Unlike some people at the time, one of Després’ great talents was in recognising the potential of the huge boom in industrialisation that the world was witnessing in the 1920s, rather than resenting it as a threat or fearing the rate and scale of change. Indeed, the creative world was ablaze with new ideas, post-war euphoria and a love of all things

new. Després’ enthusiasm for industrial style and design was immediately evident in his own work; his jewellery is determinedly geometric, architectural, mechanical-looking. Of course, he wasn’t alone – in the art world, the Fauvist and Cubist movements were founded on the principles of simplicity and geometry (the latter by, among others, the jeweller’s friend Braque). In 1918 in Paris, the Purist movement had been founded by Le Corbusier and Amédée Ozenfant to celebrate ‘rejection of ornament’ and a similar return to functional, pure design principles while Bauhaus was doing something similar in Germany.

The Voice of the Industry 91

| Antique Jewellery So, Després was in good company as far as some of his artistic ideas were concerned. What sets him apart as a designer and as a jeweller, I suppose, is the fact that he was so intensely interested in the real look and feel of machines; the nuts and bolts that were defining an age. He himself cited ’the science of mechanics’ as one of his influences, which, he said, “involves a wholly modern discipline based on precision, robustness and the rejection of anything useless or complicated”. Després contributed to all the major exhibitions – including the famous Exposition Internationale des Artes Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes. He realised, rather shrewdly, that as a designer working outside the somewhat incestuous, creative heart of Paris, he needed to establish himself through these shows. Showing characteristic ambitious determination, he exhibited at the Salons, putting his work firmly under the scrutinising noses of the fashion movers and shakers.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, given the ruthlessness of his design aesthetic, Després did not enjoy universal critical acclaim; in fact, he got a decidedly lukewarm reception when he began exhibiting under his own name from 1928. So controversial was his jewellery deemed to be, that the Salon d’Automne refused to even show it, calling it “too modern”. By 1930, Després had become increasingly involved with the Paris Salons – even having become a member of the Salon that had earlier dismissed him – and had more or less established his artistic reputation. It was at this same time that he began making jewellery inspired by his WW1 experiences of aviation draughtsmanship; in a move that was extremely radical in jewellery at the time, he literally depicted machine parts in his work, including bolts, rods and crankshafts.

92 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

Throughout the 1930s, when the world was plunged into economic depression and money was not flowing nearly as freely as it had during the Roaring Twenties, Després continued to churn out work at a rapid rate, exhibiting at all the major Parisian exhibitions. His work, however, took on a slightly less radical – more wearable – feel, yet still inspired by the machines of the age, specifically cars and aeroplanes. In 1938, the year after he met and married the artist Simone Delattre, Després exhibited at the Exposition des Arts Decoratifs in Brussels – effectively enjoying his first real international success – and the following year, firmly cementing his success, he was made a Chévalier de la Legion d’Honneur. Of course, in 1940 everything changed for Paris: German occupiers arrived in the city at the beginning of the summer, a move that affected, naturally, every aspect of life for all Parisians. Jewellers specifically were affected by the halting of the trade in gold and precious metals. The ever-determined Després, however, carried on regardless, making his jewellery from clients’ materials or when that option was not available, working in non-precious metals like bronze and copper. After the war and into the 1950s, he continued to work at the same steady rate as he had previously, adding more gold pieces

Vase showing Désprés’ mark on the base

to his jewellery mix, but by the 1960s he was choosing to work less and less in jewellery, focusing his attention instead on metalwork and objects, with the exception of private client pieces. Right up until the end of his career, though, he retained the ability to surprise. For example, in 1970, at the Salon d’Automne (the very one that had sniffily dismissed him as ‘too modern’ all those years before) he unveiled an entirely new range of jewellery that was decorated with uncut gemstones – then a rather unusual thing to do. He was 81 at the time. After his wife Simone died in 1973, Després began giving away his jewellery and work to the Musée des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, and some four years later he had become ill and ceased working for good. Always with a keen understanding of the importance of a professional reputation, Després asked for his workshop – which he had run through the vast majority of his life – to be closed in order that his name, his work and his style would remain ever his own. Like all the very best (I believe) jewellers, Després was first and foremost a designer and an artist (although he himself apparently hated the term artist, preferring ‘artisan’, with the sense of no-nonsense manual work that that title implies). His contribution to the world of early 20th Century design and aesthetics was not only significant in its own right, but was demonstrably influenced by – and part of – the artistic movements at the time. His work was very much of its time, but – in contrast to the safety of the kind of beautiful, ‘timeless’ jewellery we’re used to seeing and revering – it is hugely exciting in the way that it incorporated so much of the world in which Després lived. As his biographer Melissa Gabardi so eloquently puts it, “Després’ creations are works of architecture, often characterised by a surprising inventiveness that marks him out as one of the major figures in the history of modern jewellery. His objects inspired by Cubism, Futurism, industrial design and modern machinery are still on the cutting edge of technical experimentation, even now, fifty years after they first appeared”.

The Executive Development Forum. Feel the beneﬁts! What’s it all about? Simple! You have the jewellery knowledge so we concentrate on business development and improvement. Always bearing in mind the special nature of the sector and that each business is unique. We share, we learn, we improve and we realise real business improvement.

Why not you? The EDF members are keen to improve their businesses and they do! Just like you they have challenges, skills, management issues and limited time to cover the multitude of tasks in running a jewellers. But most of all they are determined to win! Why don’t you join them and share in their success?

WIIFM! That inevitable question – What’s in it for me? Well for a start you are losing the isolation many independents feel; you are part of a supportive community. You can benchmark your performance against the best. You are exposed to specialists and services speciﬁc to your type of business. You gain a massive amount of information and a range of diverse opinions which stimulate business improvement.

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| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see… Jewels in Spain: 1500 – 1800 by Priscilla E Muller (£58, Ediciones El Viso through ACC) First published 40 years ago, but only now available in English, this guide to jewels made in Spain and the New World during the reign of the Hapsburg and

Bourbon dynasties has been revised and updated by the author – including new colour images. She puts into historical context the work of Spain’s plateros – (silver and goldsmiths) who, in 1552 were officially recognized as artist-craftsmen (rather than merely trained workingmen). Thus inventiveness was awakened. Images of the jewellery, as well as of the works of artists such as Velazquez, illustrate this thorough and fascinating reference book.

Sales & Exhibitions

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

September Now until 16th Sept, 2012: A Sense of Place: New Jewellery from the Northern Lands. National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh An exhibition exploring the relationship contemporary jewellers from northern Europe have with their environment. www.nms.ac.uk

August 23rd-27th: India International Jewellery Show, Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai Over 800 exhibitors, from both India and elsewhere, offering gems and jewellery. www.iijs.org

20th-10th February, 2013: Van Cleef & Arpels: L’Art de la Haute Joaillerie, Les Art Décoratif, Paris Over 400 pieces by the renowned French jewellery house will be shown together with documents and drawings that trace the history of Van Cleef & Arpels as well as a chronology of its creations and technical inventions. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr 24th-30th & 2nd-7th October: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Goldsmiths Centre, London Annual two week event (closed on 1st Oct) showcasing the work of 180 contemporary jewelers and silversmiths. This year the Fair celebrates its 30th (pearl) anniversary. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

94 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

September 2nd-5th International Jewellery London, Earl’s Court, London Established jewellery manufacturers together with new young design talent, plus gemstones, jewellery services and trend seminars. See page 50 for full preview. www.jewellerylondon.com 2nd-5th: Autumn Fair: NEC Birmingham Fashion jewellery and accessories alongside gift and home sectors. www.autumnfair.com 8th-12th: VicenzaOro Fall, Fiera di Vicenza, Italy International exhibition for gold and platinum jewellery, costume jewellery, gemstones, equipment and accessories. www.choicevent.it 19th-23rd Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, AsiaWorld Expo, Lantau 3,400 exhibitors showing gems and jewellery. http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com

Fashion Jewellery: Catwalk and Couture by Maia Adams (£9.95, Laurence King) This is a mini edition of Adams’ original book which, arranged by designer, profiles 33 international fashion jewellers who combine traditional techniques and cutting edge methods to create their own, individual style of jewellery. Her choice of artists – whether fine jewellers or conceptual designers – encompasses those who push the boundaries at a time when fashion jewellery is riding the crest of a wave. It is not about ‘costume’ jewellery – which was designed to look ‘real’ – but about innovation and packing a punch.

23rd-25th: Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn, SECC, Glasgow A three-day show with a range of exhibitors across the jewellery and gift sectors. www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk October 2nd-10th: MideEast Watch & Jewellery Show, Sharjah, UAE For buyers with particular interest in gold and diamond watches and jewellery. www.mideastjewellery.com 5th-8th: Intergem, Intergem Messe, Idar-Oberstein, Germany Gems and gemstone-set jewellery. www.intergem.de 21st-24th: Dubai International Jewellery Week, Dubai World Trade Centre, UAE Global and regional manufacturers showing in three distinct shows. www.jewelleryshow.com 26th-28th: Gemworld Munich, Neue Messe, Munich, Germany Minerals, gems, jewellery and fossils. www.gemworldmunich.com 27th-29th: Euro Trophex, PTA, Amsterdam, Netherlands An exhibition of cups, trophies and awards. www.eurotrophex.com

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| Regular

The

Last Word The Last Word in our IJL issue goes to recently-married Judith Lockwood, IBB Amsterdam’s Country Manager UK, looking after popular brands Ti Sento Milano and Charming-by-Ti Sento Personal Profile Judith has been involved in the trade for 24 years – working with luxury brands such as Gucci and Cartier and bringing Hearts On Fire diamonds to the UK market. As an agent/distributor she and her business partner worked with brands and designers from all over the world, sourcing, designing, importing and hallmarking platinum, 24ct gold, Italian fashion precious jewellery and silver fashion jewellery. This led her, in 2008, to IBB Amsterdam and Ti Sento. Since then she has built a strategic distribution network through hand-picked UK retailers which helped to award the brand the accolade of ‘Jewellery Brand of the Year’ 2010 and 2011.

Who has been the biggest influence on your life? Personally – my mother was the biggest influence on me. She was a strong, kind, feisty Yorkshire woman. Business-wise it was my old and well-respected boss at Cartier, Phil Ryder. He taught me to meet and speak with everyone and to get out and about – “as you learn nothing sitting in the office”. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Anywhere private with its own pool and with the people I love. What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? Driven, determined and considerate. Others I hope might say – professional, respected and a team-player. If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? Having worked in the luxury watch industry, the diamond industry and the jewellery/fashion industry I see how separate they can all

98 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

What was the last film you saw at the cinema? Err… some matinee cartoon with my 12-year old step-daughter Liv and her cousins Rosy and Jed (9 and 7 respectively)! By the way Liv told Rosy when asked what I did for a living “Judith talks a lot and drinks champagne!” Hmph, I wish… Tell us something not many people know about you… I love motorbikes. I left Cartier to go to Honda UK. I ran a British Supersport and Superstock race team. I have ridden most UK and some European race-tracks on track days, and have toured Europe many times on a motorbike. Currently in retirement.

be. I would wish that we were all closer as we all have the same problems and aspirations, work with the same customers and can learn so much more from each other. Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? I would change nothing. I believe that what’s for you doesn’t go past you. To what do you attribute your success? Luck, hard-work, being in the right place at the right time and working with a fabulous team of people. If not the jewellery industry, what might your alternative career have been? I always wanted to own a cheese shop with a really nice delicatessen that serves coffee and great cakes. Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!) Why? I shop twice a year in a great ladies store in York. She throws me stuff. I try it on. And leave with a big bag of new things.

Do you Tweet? Not really. Been hacked into twice and only managed to tweet myself I think! What is your chosen form of exercise? Walking the dog and carrying sample cases. Quick Fire • Red or white wine? White • Diamonds or coloured stones? Diamonds • White or yellow metal? White metal • TV or radio? Radio • Jewellery on men? Yes or no? Not really – depends on the man • Delegator or control freak? Control freak • Beatles or Rolling Stones? The Stones • Paperback or e-reader? Paperback

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