Jeweller April 2011

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Jeweller April 2011

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Men’s jewellery under the spotlight NAG education award winners Opting for opal The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

The Voice of The Industry

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Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

A P R I L

1 1

Manpower

Communiqué

4

Editor’s Letter

7

Industry News

8

NAG News

14

Belinda Morris investigates the flourishing men’s

Member of the Month

16

jewellery market and discovers the amazing

BJA News

19

Jeweller Picks

22

Industry Update

25

BJA Simon Says

26

Legal Jeweller

28

BJA Cufflinks

37

Opinion: John Henn

38

Security Update

41

Antique Jewellery

44

Insurance Matters

48

IRV Review

51

Appointments

63

Display Cabinet

64

The Last Word

66

30

selection of styles that is out there

Opting for Opal

42

Mary Brittain speaks with BJA members regarding the opal market and the proliferation of synthetic look-alike stones

Reflections in the Rear-View Mirror

50

The Birmingham Assay Office’s Michael Allchin studies the past to plan for the future

NAG Education Awards 2011

52

The National Association of Goldsmiths once again The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members.

For further information about The Jeweller please visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

rewards students for their hard work, commitment and knowledge at the annual ‘Presentation of

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Awards’ held at the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall

The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street,

Cover Image Cover image in conjunction with Charming by Ti Sento Judith Wade – UK Sales Manager Tel: 07834 490060 www.charmingbytisento.com

London EC2A 4XG

CUBE Publishing Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7833 5500

Tel: 020 7613 4445

ian@cube-uk.com

www.jewellers-online.org

Art Director: Ben Page

Editor: Belinda Morris

ben@cube-uk.com

Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk

Publisher: Neil Oakford neil@cube-uk.com

BJA Marketing & PR Manager Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

Mary Britain, John Henn,

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Miles Hoare, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.

The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

Armed with the results of the first EDF business confidence survey of 2011, Michael Hoare considers how the mood has changed since last year and how jewellers may fare over the next 12 months.

A Peek into the Future? usiness confidence is a bit difficult to read these days, with conflicting reports coming from all quarters only serving to confuse the observer of the economic scene. But as the dust settles on the first three months of the year and we can at last look dispassionately at the preceding twelve months, we can begin to get things into perspective once again. Data reaching this office indicates that business for most middle ranking jewellers was acceptable last year. Yes they were hit by the weather around Christmas, which took the shine off one of the most productive seasons, but most of those backswings were corrected with the coming of the January sales. So, for example, December ended with yearon-year increases averaging just over seven per cent for EDF members when adjusted on a like-for-like basis, and January came in with welcome increases in excess of five per cent on the same basis. How much these turnover increases are attributable to the twin impacts of higher raw material prices and the hike in VAT is difficult to tell. But the message, it appears, is optimistic. However, with significant public sector contraction yet

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4 The Jeweller April 2011

to take a grip on the economy, can it remain so throughout the rest of the year?

To answer this question, and in preparation for a meeting at the Bank of England, we decided to re-run our simple six monthly online business confidence survey. We’ve done this three times now, having started in January 2010, repeating the exercise in August, and our latest edition went out in February 2011 and elicited a four per cent response. The results are interesting because, not only are they specific to jewellers as opposed to the wider economy, but they now measure the changing mood over a full year. The details will be published in

overall business confidence, higher, the same, or lower?’ the majority this time responded that it was roughly the same. But when comparing the results now with those obtained a year ago it is clear that there has been a dramatic percentage swing away from higher confidence, such that forty per cent of respondents now said they have lower confidence. An almost complete reversal of last year’s result! Similarly, those forecasting lower growth have jumped from 17 per cent in January 2010 to over 40 per cent in February 2011. Expectations of customer demand have fallen away since January 2010 and now the majority (52 per cent) continue to expect demand to be flat.

These factors put together have led to many businesses’ investment plans being put on hold.

The prospects for jobs in the sector however remain good, with the majority predicting that the numbers employed will remain constant, and concerns about skills shortages have eased slightly. Possibly this reflects the fact that any contraction in numbers has already taken place during the recession; thus reducing staff churn and stabilising around a core of trusted employees whose skills are a known quantity. The significant change in this area is that respondents acknowledge that wages

…there has been a dramatic percentage swing away from higher confidence, such that forty per cent of respondents now said they have lower confidence. n:gauge but for illustration here it is worth noting some of the trends that are beginning to emerge.

For instance, when asked the question ‘comparing your outlook for the next six months with the last six months, is your

cannot stagnate forever and accept that this might mean rises of up to two per cent.

While pay rises of this magnitude are below current inflation, 60 per cent of respondents said they expected to increase prices in the next six months. Equally, while six months

Comment | ago the vast majority said they were going to resist introducing January’s VAT rise in full, now in February 2011 65 per cent say they have implemented the rise at least in part. Surely both signs that the Bank of England is right to keep its eye on the inflation numbers, and perhaps reinforcement of its belief that it is largely down to ‘one off’ factors like VAT, and increases in commodity and raw material prices!

So can we learn from these crude indicators, and do they reflect the experience of other sectors of the UK economy? Anecdotally, the engineering sector is feeling much more confident; UK demand is increasing; employee numbers are on the up; and as a result the sector is experiencing some skills shortages. Similarly, While pay rises… confidence in the interior design sector has returned. But are below current in both cases while investment inflation, 60 per cent plans are improving, firms are trying to live within their own of respondents said financial means because of the they expected to lack of bank support, or support which comes at too high a cost. increase prices in In both cases cash-rich compathe next six months. nies are securing their supply chains by acquiring their principal suppliers. The banks are still not lending to finance expansion, even where a profitable business model is in place, and small firms are continuing to rely on credit card borrowings. The latter borne out by a greater than 20 per cent like-for-like growth in Visa use in January, with similar levels forecast for the remainder of the year.

In the housing market, while repossessions have tailed off somewhat, buy-to-let investors are replacing first time buyers – because mortgages are hard to get – but causing difficulties for employees moving to new areas. As predicted, the UK employment sector is largely stagnant, except for growth in temporary and interim workers. By contrast mainland Europe is reported to be much more positive, with employment rates running ahead of the economic cycle and ‘blue collar’ skill shortages emerging as a consequence.

So if there aren’t many bright spots at present, there are one or two glimmers. The only comparable trade that I encountered are the bridal wear retailers, who, like us, are on the discretionary spending end of the spectrum. After a good 2010 they find themselves coping with vast increases in raw-material costs, with the cotton price having doubled in one year. But if you really want to hear of a bad luck story, one only has to study the replacement window sector, which is looking at 50 per cent reductions in turnover attributed to fuel surcharges, increases in VAT, and the absence of finance via second mortgages. The expectation that when the money ran out people would ‘improve’ rather than ‘move’ has simply failed to happen! It almost makes you thankful to be a jeweller!

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month: “We portray a lifestyle,

Editor’s

Letter

and that gives a man the security he needs to wear the product. It’s something they are used to in all aspects of their life, it’s a tribal thing.”

o, will they, won’t they – go for something new rather than old this time? Are we bothered

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even? There’s never as much fuss made about the choice of wedding band as there is

about the engagement ring is there? Well, it generally sits quietly and unobtrusively alongside its showier sister, happy to play a supporting role in the glamour stakes.

But after the media hoo-ha (yes, me too, I know) over the choice of Diana’s old ring (which, if I were Kate, I’d stash in a safe after a week or two – too priceless to wear – and choose another, more ‘me’ one) questions now have to be asked about the band. Will it be Welsh gold as has become a royal tradition? Will it be something classically safe and timeless or will they redress the balance by choosing a contemporary style? Have they favoured a British designer? Who is it?! At the time of going to press it hasn’t been revealed, but we’ll

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find out soon enough.

What I also want to know, because it’s on my mind at this month, is whether Wills is going to receive a ring. I know so many men who don’t (won’t) wear one that I don’t regard it as a given. But, for the sake of future sales of men’s jewellery, I hope that he’s going for it. I also hope that he’s treated himself to a brand new pair of cufflinks – something with a bit of a twist to display his spirit of adventure when he shoots those cuffs later in the evening.

And, if I may be so bold, I’d like to think that under the dress shirt there might dangle something edgy-but-regal, like a black diamond orb pendant. It’s probably much too late now, but just in case he’s dithering over this bit, perhaps someone could point him in the direction of this issue’s feature on men’s jewellery for inspiration.

“In value terms 2010 was a record high year for gold in the UK. The steadily growing importance of 18ct confirms that it has a strong future"

I don’t think that you have to be a confirmed royalist to appreciate that the wedding at the end of this month is a ‘good thing’. It might or it might not spark a revival in the institution of marriage, but it will surely boost tourism and, for a day at least, restore flagging spirits in what might otherwise be considered rather worrying and doom-laden times. So, fetch the bunting from the attic and make the most of it I say.

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

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The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Trade initiative for London Jewellery Week ondon Jewellery Week has partnered with The Jewellery Show to offer a trade buyers’ day at Treasure, the contemporary jewellery exhibition at the heart of LJW. The day-long salon event will take place at Victoria House, in London’s Bloomsbury Square from 10am-6pm on 9th June and will be followed by a VIP reception.

The partnership aims to deliver LJW’s core objective of ‘supporting and enriching the UK jewellery trade and allied industries by introducing a June buying period that will directly benefit the bottom line of so many UK jewellers’. Research carried out by LJW demonstrates that a more formalised buying platform in June would be welcomed as a

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way of paralleling the ‘faster’ buying culture seen in the fashion industry. The Jewellery Show Salon at Treasure represents an initial step towards that goal but, say the organisers, the potential for growth is substantial.

“London Jewellery Week endeavours to support jewellers at every level – from mentoring and support for emerging jewellers, to the cultivation of new clientele for established jewellers,” explains Della Tinsley, managing director of LJW. “We’re thrilled to be partnering with the Jewellery Show… on this exciting expansion of LJW. I’m convinced the Jewellery Show Salon at Treasure will be hugely beneficial to jewellers and retail buyers alike.”

LJW window display competition ondon Jewellery Week is just around the corner and (just as with the more established London Fashion Week) retailers need not be based in the capital to get involved. To help build the excitement ahead of the event, The Jeweller – in collaboration with the NAG – is launching a nationwide competition to create the most eye-catching window display.

Whether it’s an entire window or a section of a window, we will be looking for a display that encapsulates the creativity and buzz of LJW. Photos of the entries should be sent to the editor of The Jeweller (bmorris@colony.co.uk) by 16th May 2011 – the best windows will be featured in our June issue. The winning entry will receive a pair of tickets to attend Salon at Treasure during LJW, including tickets to the VIP evening champagne reception.

Winners can also take advantage of a pair of tickets to visit the RHS Hampton Court Palace show (9th July 2011) reinforcing the NAG’s Grow Your Own campaign.

In case you feel that you need to brush up on your display skills, Judy Head of Head Creative Associates (020 7415 7005) offers a few tips for producing a stop-in-your-tracks window: • Focus on your customer: a window display of fine jewellery is there to attract business, to create a sale – please dont empty the safe into the window!

• Use colour: vivid spots of colour will draw attention to a collection or important piece and be remembered by those who stop to look at your display.

• Keep it simple – clutter creates confusion.

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Royal themes from Clogau Gold logau Gold has launched a number of Royal-themed collections to its Spring/Summer 2011 offering, complemented by a dedicated wedding campaign shot outside Westminster Abbey. The Kensington line is inspired by the gates of Kensington Palace, and features a textured filigree design of rose and yellow gold with diamonds. The Royal Roses collection features the Tea Rose crafted in rose gold set with diamonds. Other Royal collections include Lillibet – in celebration of The Queen’s 85th birthday this year – as well as an extension of the classic Windsor Collection of wedding rings in white, yellow or rose gold.

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8 The Jeweller April 2011

In addition to the partnership with The Jewellery Show, LJW 2011 will co-ordinate a range of activities to support the trade including: an emerging and recently launched jewellers’ showcase at JewelEast, the selling exhibition at Spitalfields’ Market; the promotion of jewellery-making courses to young people through Holts Academy in Hatton Garden; the championing of Fairtrade and Fairmined gold through Essence, the ethical jewellery pavilion at Treasure and a variety of collaborations across the jewellery world.

For more information on the various events visit: www.londonjewelleryweek.co.uk and www.treasureuk.com

British Silver Week dates The Pangolin gallery at Kings Cross in London is the venue for this year’s British Silver Week, which runs from 9th-13th May. Now in its fourth year the event, which has as its patron and sponsor The Goldsmiths’ Company, aims to showcase the best in contemporary silversmithing.

During the five-day ‘Festival of Silver’ at Pangolin visitors will be able to see a wide variety of work from British silversmiths, as well as watch demonstrations and listen to talks. The silver theme will continue throughout the summer with a number of jewellers and galleries around the UK hosting special events.

Visit the website at www.britishsilverweek for further details.

Industry News |

Budget opinion – Michael Hoare his was one of the most heavily trailed budgets of recent times. So much so that it was hard to get excited about its eventual contents. Given the gloomy economic landscape the Chancellor was left to announce any juicy titbits he could muster in order to inject some feelgood factor and garner some positive media coverage. One parliamentary sketch writer somewhat unkindly likened the budget to a meagre mid-week supper scraped together from scraps found at the back of the fridge. For me it was more a ‘jam tomorrow’ budget for business. Yes, there was the three year reduction in corporation tax, the loosening of planning regulations, and the cut in regulation. For consumers there was the increase in personal allowances, and the suspension of the fuel price escalator. For the wider economy there was potential stimulus from enterprise zones and the boost to new builds.

But for jewellers the elephants that still stalk the room are the VAT rise, the drop in consumer confidence engendered by imminent unemployment, and the squeeze on credit. Whether a penny off a litre of fuel and £45 extra per year in the back pocket will redress that balance is yet to be seen!

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Royal visit to Goldsmiths’ Hall RH The Prince of Wales accompanied by HRH The Duchess of Cornwall, visited Goldsmiths’ Hall on Wednesday 23rd February 2011 to meet apprentices, young silversmiths and jewellers, as well as Members of the Goldsmiths’ Company. One of the highlights of their visit was a demonstration on Hallmarking. The Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company, Mr Michael Galsworthy introduced Their Royal Highnesses to members of the Goldsmiths’ Company’s Assay Office including David Merry, head of Assay Office training, and two young Assay Office apprentices, Robert Grant and Robert Hinson, who explained and demonstrated the Hallmarking process.

Their Royal Highnesses were also shown the new Diamond Jubilee mark which is to be officially launched in July 2011 in celebration of HM The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012.

This special commemorative hallmark depicts a young Queen Elizabeth wearing an oversized crown in a diamond shaped surround. This optional mark will be available from all four UK Assay Offices in combination with a statutory hallmark from 1st July 2011.

His Royal Highness was then invited to strike the Leopard’s Head, the mark of the Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office onto a small sterling silver plate bearing a laser version of the Diamond Jubilee mark. This was then presented to him as a souvenir of his visit to Goldsmiths’ Hall.

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Care calls for Challenge participants he poverty-fighting charity Care is calling for teams across the fashion and retail sectors to sign up for a fund-raising foot, bike and canoe challenge to take place next month in Staffordshire. The marathon distance Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge will take place in scenic Cannock Chase on 21st May, with the aim of raising £60,000 to support Care’s work in 70 countries. Among the 18 teams that have signed up so far are Timberland and Joules Clothing. Apart from the forest track and river section of the course, the course will include a trail challenge on foot, with a few mystery challenges thrown in. There will also be a one hour bonus stage for the extra competitive and super fit. For more details call 020 7934 9470 or visit: www.carechallnge.org.uk/primesolutions

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S N I P P E T S Trollbeads to donate to tsunami victims Fable Trading Ltd, sole distributor of Trollbeads charm bead jewellery in the UK and Ireland, has announced a donation of 50p from the sale of each limited edition Trollbeads Kimono bead towards helping victims of the Japanese tsunami. It will donate monies raised to ShelterBox, a Cornish-based international disaster relief charity. Visit www.shelterbox.org for more information.

Trollbeads six new limited edition Japanese glass Kimono beads were launched on 4th March 2011 and Fable Trading has also guaranteed to donate retrospectively for all beads sold since the release, a total of £1500 to date.

WDC clarifies position on Marange diamonds Following a statement recently issued by Matthieu Yamba, chairman of the Kimberley Process permitting Zimbabwe to export rough diamond shipments from the two official concessions in the Marenge region, the World Diamond Council (WDC) is advising caution. While it “welcomes and applauds Mr. Yamba’s efforts to bring an end to the apparent impasse that currently exists regarding the status of production and stocks from Marange”, the WDC advises members of the international diamond industry to refrain from trading in and exporting goods from the region until the situation and the status of these goods becomes clearer.

IJL presents fine jewellery award The IJL Special Award in Fine Jewellery was presented to designer Stan Sommerford at the Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship & Design Awards 2011, for his George Pragnell Hummingbird Ring. The Awards ceremony took place last month at the iconic Goldsmiths’ Hall and IJL event director Sam Willoughby presented the award. The winning ring was made using 18ct white and red gold and set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies. The annual Awards are organised by the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council with the aim to recognise the best craftsmanship in the jewellery industry.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Pandora’s ‘royal’ beads andora has launched a limited edition wedding charm, which is hand finished in sterling silver with a blue spinel stone setting. The blue stone symbolises the blue sapphire of Catherine Middleton’s engagement ring while the engraved initials on the back are a reminder of the happy couple.

These exclusive charms are priced at £45 and are only available from April to October

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(2011) in all stockists nationwide, due to royal protocol.

PureJewels chooses designers oung jewellery designers Cara Tonkin and Anthony Roussel have been chosen as the second and third of six designers selected to create pieces for the PureJewels Platinum Heritage Collection 2011. They follow award-winning designer Sarah Ho, with the remaining three names to be announced over the next few weeks.

This is the second edition of the Collection that the Green Street jeweller has instigated, inspired by the story of the fine jewellery shop which traces its roots to India and Africa. The final collection will be launched at a special event to be held during London Jewellery Week.

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NAG golf tournament seeks players he NAG has organised a ‘Home International’ golf tournament, which takes place on the 9th of May 2011, at the world famous championship course, Fulford Golf Club in York.

England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales will take place in the competition which has no regulation that states players have to have roots within any country, only that they have a desire to play for that team. The event’s format will include a round of golf, and a putting competition, champagne reception, and dinner in the evening, during which the presentation to the winning country will be made. Golfers of all abilities, either gender, and any age are very welcome. For details contact Frank Wood at golf@braithwaitesjewellers.com

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CW Sellors unveils its new Royal charm

Topping out ceremony at Goldsmiths’ Centre

n celebration of the Royal Wedding CW Sellors has created a sterling silver wedding bell charm set with two British gemstones – Derbyshire Blue John and Whitby Jet. The waist of each pair of bells features and engraved C and W, with a wedding bow crossing over the bells on the reverse.

The charm has been designed to fit all charm bracelets.

ichael Galsworthy, the Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company, together with Martin Drury, chairman of the Board of Trustees of the Goldsmiths’ Centre, Peter Taylor, the Centre’s director designate, and other members of the Goldsmiths’ Company witnessed the ‘topping out’ ceremony at the new Goldsmiths’ Centre building in Clerkenwell last month. The Goldsmiths’ Centre represents the largest ever single investment by the Goldsmiths’ Company in support of the craft and industry. When finished it will comprise a multi-faceted amenity, and will be home to a new training and education facility.

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10 The Jeweller April 2011

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S N I P P E T S Charles Green project winner announced For the third year running students on the BA Jewellery and Silversmithing Design for Industry course at the School of Jewellery, Birmingham City University have participated in a design project established by Charles Green. At a champagne reception last month the competition’s prize was awarded to Annie Li for her geometric, flower-inspired pendant.

The brief, set as a real commission, was to create a bespoke pendant or earring set incorporating a selected gemstone donated by the jewellery company. Each student had a different stone to work with.

Pink diamond up for auction The highlight of Christie’s New York’s jewels sale this month is likely to be a 10.09 fancy purplish-pink diamond. The highly desirable cushion-cut stone is estimated to fetch between US$12,000,000-15,000,000 on 12th April. in the last 15 months, four pink diamonds have fetched more than US$1 million per carat at auction. A vivid pink 5 carat cushion-cut diamond sold for more than US$2.1 million at Christie’s Hong Kong in December 2009 – a record price for for any diamond sold at auction.

Rachel Galley/Honda union The Geneva Motor Show last month saw the unveiling of a collaboration between young jewellery designer Rachel Galley and Honda Europe which commissioned her to create a piece of jewellery inspired by the new sporty hybrid, the CR-Z. The result was a headpiece made from the car’s grille encrusted with thousands of crystals as is just the beginning of the joint venture, which could see a range of CR-Z-inspired fine jewellery launched later this year.

Rotary named as a 2011 Consumer Superbrand The fourth generation family-owned Swiss watch company Rotary has been named as a Consumer Superbrand of 2011 following independent market research carried out by the Superbrand organisation. Its annual league tables are based on the opinions of market experts, business professionals and thousands of British consumers.

Seven million reasons to use T.H. March’s Customer Insurance Solutions

As well as looking after the business insurance needs of our clients in the trade, many of our jewellers also introduce their own customers to us. This has resulted in T.H. March paying over £7 million to jewellers in commission, replacement jewellery and jewellery repairs over the last four years.

Two thousand retail jewellers earn commission on any introductions to us as well as benefitting from replacement jewellery sales and repairs following a claim. This keeps customers coming back and spending in their shops, increasing both turnover and customer loyalty. In today’s tough markets, you know how important this is.

To find out how you can benefit, call any of our six branches nationwide, or John Watson on 01822 855555.

You can also visit Your Customer’s Insurance at

www.thmarch.co.uk MIS/7MV1/22.03.11

| Industry News

Win a new e-commerce site

S N I P P E T S

nternational Jewellery London (IJL) has teamed up with internet marketing agency Adaptive to offer retailers or designers the opportunity to enter a prize draw to win the design of a new ecommerce site. A new winner will be announced for each month leading up to the show, with the final winner being announced at IJL (4th-7th September).

This initiative aims to provide a boost for all of the seven winning businesses, at a time when the retail environment is evolving and many consumers are purchasing products online or at least researching trends and products before shopping in-store. “Over the last decade, the internet’s share of consumer spending has risen consistently year on year, something that is unlikely to change in the foreseeable future,” comments Markus Goess-Saurau, director of marketing at Adaptive.

“All companies should be thinking about having a presence online and if you want some top tips on ecommerce, social media or marketing your brand online, come to IJL as we are genuinely committed to making sure our visitors and exhibitors develop their businesses as much as possible,” says IJL event manager Sam Willoughby. The prize draw can be entered via the IJL website: www.jewellerylondon.com/prizedraw.

Queen Victoria’s brooch for sale

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Report on metals in children’s jewellery he Precious Metals Commission of CIBJO, The World Jewellery Confederation, has released a special report which focuses on key international legislative proposals in relation to heavy metals and in particular nickel, cadmium and lead ratios in jewellery that will likely affect the industry – particularly those making and selling jewellery for children.

The report addresses regulation amendments that expand restrictions on cadmium in a number of applications including its usage in jewellery products. A draft is expected to be adopted in the first quarter of 2011 and once published in the Official Journal of the European Union, it will be enforced as early as July 2011.

In regards to nickel, changes proposed by the CEN Working Group to amend EN 1811 in the EU were passed by a majority. In addition to ‘pass’ and ‘fail,’ the new EU requirement will introduce a third category for testing, ‘no decision’. However, it is unclear what happens when there is a ‘no decision’ test result. Contact CIBJO for the full report.

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Glasgow jeweller receives AGTA award enowned Glagow gemmologist Alan Hodgkinson has been presented with the Leon Ritzler Memorial Honorary Member Award at a gala dinner during the recent Tuscon Gem and Mineral Fair. Bestowed by the board of directors of the American Gem Trade Association, the citation reads: “In AGTA chief executive, Doug Hucker; Alan Hodgkinson; Alice Keller, editor of Gems & grateful recognition of your enduring global Gemmology and director, Bear Williams vision, passion and dedication to the study of gemstones and gemology has truly made you a pioneer in our industry”. Hodgkinson, who has lectured at the Tuscon show for the past 20 years, was also given an Honorary Life membership of AGTA.

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Jewellery courses launched Birmingham City University has launched its programme of short courses at the School of Jewellery and Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre. Beginning on 27th June, 2011 the courses will include topics such as 3D scanning; exploring anodised aluminium; resin jewellery; silver chain-making; diamond awareness and diamond grading. To learn more call: 0121 248 4584

12 The Jeweller April 2011

A gold, enamel and garnet bodice brooch from 1830 that belonged to Queen Victoria was offered in the Jewellery Sale, which took place on 6th April at Bonhams Knightsbridge.

The finely detailed brooch is embellished with green and red enamel, set with cabochon garnets that suspend an elongated drop of a similar design. It was estimated to sell for £600 – 800 (the final selling price was not available as we went to press). The brooch originally belonged to Victoria, Duchess of Kent, who on her death in 1861 left her jewellery to her daughter, Queen Victoria, who subsequently gave the brooch to her third daughter Helena.

The reverse of the brooch is engraved with: “Belonged to dear Grandmamma V. From Mama V.R. to Helena 25th May 1870.”

Crystal collection goes on sale The entire collection of Count Alexander von Beregshasy, known as ‘The Count of Many Crystals’ and, until his death last year, one of the most flamboyant characters on the London fashion scene, is to be sold at auction in London next month. The sale at Rosebury’s Auctioneers in London includes a vast quantity of costume jewellery, much of it with Swarovski crystals and CZ and set in silver or white gold. The Count made jewellery for films and for actors and actresses to wear privately. He also made reproductions of state jewellery from Europe’s royal families as well as replicas of the most famous diamonds in the world such as the Koh I Noor. In addition to the modern pieces, the auction will include antique tiaras from the Count’s collection.

RJC’s sixth certified member The third largest fine jewellery retailer in the united states, Fred Meyer Jewelers and Littman Jewelers has achieved certification against the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the Responsible Jewellery Council’s Member Certification System. It is the first RJC retail member trading solely in the USA to do so.

| NAG News

Houlden Group meeting he NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare took the floor at the Houlden Group business meeting on 22nd February to update members on current initiatives and the interlocking links between the two organisations.

The meeting, which took place at London’s Great Connaught Rooms, was attended by approx 60 members of the buying group, and featured presentations by Barclaycard’s Amanda Atkins; Rebecca van Rooijen of Benchpeg and Jewellery Show director Julie Driscoll. Hoare reminded delegates of the strengths inherent in the Association’s sixtyfive years training history; the multilayered

communications strategies, including n:gauge and The Jeweller, employed to inform all members; and the work done on ethical trading and measures to keep them ahead of the curve both politically and economically.

He also stressed that all members of the NAG are beneficiaries of important initiatives such as the NAG Institute of Registered Valuers, which is setting new standards in valuation practice, and the SaferGems scheme that is a joint initiative with its official insurance brokers TH March. But Hoare took particular pains to emphasise the beneficial effects that flowed from the recently

established Executive Development Forum (EDF) for the Houlden Group. For five years NAG EDF participants have received tailored business development coaching, helping them focus on key business issues and performance indicators. The results have been exceptional, and having asked the Association to form a group comprised of Houlden members, the buying group was now the beneficiary of similar strategic thinking. The enduring message was, however, that services of buying groups and the responsibilities of the Association are complementary.

NAG Council and Forum

has relevance to the jewellery industry.

Fund-raising events are a key element of the charity and McDermott explained how employers can get involved and contribute financially. (www.retailtrust.org.uk).

Emphasising the importance of environment (as well as people) Chris Wade, CEO of the Association of Town Centre Management explained how businesses can interact with local policy makers to promote their towns – as highlighted by the Action for Market Towns initiative. The many challenges faced by these towns, not least of all car parking, out-of-town shopping and less-then-sympathetic local authorities, all came under discussion among the group.

The three presentations broadly followed the NAG’s ‘Grow Your Own’ theme for 2011 – maximising the return on key assets being a vital consideration in straightened times.

And providing tangible proof that we are serious about this message, the Council Meeting was followed later that day by the awards ceremony – celebrating the achievements of the latest ‘crop’ of graduates who will go on to be the future leaders of our sector. For the full story on the Awards, turn to page 52.

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Members of the Council and speakers: John McDermott (Retail Trust), Patrick Fuller (President), Chris Wade (Action For Market Towns), Nicholas Major (Chairman), Pravin Pattni (Deputy Chairman) and Leon Foster-Hill (Extending Working Lives).

he Terrace Gallery at the Museum of London played host to the first NAG Council and Forum Meeting of 2011, held on 10th March.

Following a decision to make the twice-yearly event open and accessible to all members of the Association, the well-attended formal meeting preceded three presentations on important topics, all aimed at offering attendees a better understanding of current thinking on matters that affect the jewellery industry and business as a whole. Following lunch, members were free to explore the Museum. Previous venues for the Council and Forum have included Fortnum’s, The Law Society and The Imperial War Museum.

In light of the recent changes to the law regarding retirement, diversity consultant Leon Foster-Hill discussed ‘Extending Working Lives’ and how the changes to the employment landscape affect business. He underlined

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14 The Jeweller April 2011

the relevant details of the policy which will see the removal of the default retirement age which mean that our ageing population will be staying at work for longer. The impact that this will have on jobs for young people was also discussed, with many comments and questions coming from the floor.

The second speaker of the morning was John McDermott, development director of Retail Trust, a charity specifically founded to help all those employed in the retail sector.

Once known at Cottage Homes, it was established over a century ago to provide retirement housing for clothing industry workers. Today its remit, McDermott explained, has widened to include all areas of retail and to also provide a free, confidential and independent helpline, seven days a week, for any retail employee in need. Critical incident support is one particular service offered that

Proposed study tour to Tucson 2012 The NAG is considering running another study tour to Tucson in 2012. If interested please contact IRV co-ordinator Sandra Page on tel: 029 2081 3615.

NAG News |

Round Table Discussion ollowing a highly successful first foray into round table discussions this year, the NAG is forging ahead with its programme of enlightening meetings at which members get to grips with issues of the day. In February a select group of members took a detailed look at the subject of succession planning, and the format raised so many interesting avenues of research (see report in March edition of The Jeweller) that the subject may be re-visited later in the year. For the time being however, the Association takes the subject of ‘Insider Crime’, sometimes euphemistically known as ‘shrinkage’, as its next subject in May. The date is yet to be finalised, but expert participants have already been lined up to provide guidance on the day and there will be strong demand for the limited number of places available.

NAG information manager, Faye Hadlow, who participated last time, and is now preparing guidance notes on succession planning, said of the events, “Our aim is to both stimulate and inform, while gaining a greater understanding of our members’ longer term business and development needs. The days are also informal and great fun, as they bring together some very diverse personalities”.

Look out for the next meeting date in the upcoming edition of n:gauge, or contact ritu@jewellers-online.org to reserve your place in advance.

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New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Harshita Deolia on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: harshita@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications Tulja Jewellers (Vijay/Paresh/Babulal Lodhia) Forest Gate, London Penny Farthing Jewellers (Stephen/Shaun Rogers) East Grinstead Equinox (Paul Marrington/Matthew Silver) Hoddesdon Saphira Jewellers (Douglas Bond/Denise Johnson) Cornwall Brazen Studios (Sarah Raffel) Glasgow Oswestry Goldsmiths (Annette Broderick/ Adam Tibbetts) Oswestry Satyan Jewellers (Kishorilal and Nalini Pala) Forest Gate, London The Jewellery Workshop (SOA) Ltd (Andrew and Susan Crowther) Stratford upon Avon Asquiths (John and Fiona Gray) Castleford

Affiliate Applications

Save the date: EDF Oxford Congress

Kumari-Doyle Jewellers (Isaac Kumari-Doyle) Co Tipperary, Ireland Chance Diamonds, (Ben Lauren), Polegate

he 16th June 2011 will see the third NAG Oxford Congress taking place at the Saïd Business School.

This unique event provides the opportunity for jewellery industry professionals to come together to share experience, generate ideas and hear from other industry experts about issues that affect all areas of business.

This year the emphasis will be on how we can use the internet and social media to market our businesses and communicate with our customers, as well as employment law in its ever-changing forms.

This really is a date not to be missed so put it in your diary! Further information to follow but if you can’t wait to get your name on the list contact Ritu Verma or Amanda White at the NAG on tel: 020 7613 4445, ritu@jewellers-online.org or amandaw@jewellers-online.org

Allied Applications

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Goldfinger Rings (Philip and Julie Gates) Hatton Wall

Alumni Applications Claudia Sarti, Glasgow Angela Karen O’Connell, Birmingham

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on tel: (029) 2081 3615.

New Member Applicants Sharon Lee PJDip PJGemDip PJValDip, Winsor Bishop Ltd, Norwich

Upgrading from Member to Fellow

Develop your teams creativity with the NAG’s Essential Display Seminar One day – Thursday 12th May / Thursday 6th October, NAG members £212 + VAT The Essential Display Seminar is for those people without formal training in display who would like to develop their creative skills in this direction Facilitated by jewellery marketing expert Judy Head the seminar covers: the theory of visual merchandising; how displays work; getting to know your business/ market/customer base; what your business’s unique selling points are; planning your display; promotional displays; Christmas, Valentine’s Day, engagement/wedding and practice – plan-create-produce. The seminar fee includes lunch and refreshments.

To book your place contact Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

Stephen E Hill MIRV PJDip FGA DGA, H Stain Ltd, London SW1

Grow with the EDF e-appraising business performance and management approach is an ongoing process. The Executive Development Forum can help ensure that all aspects of a business are working effectively and efficiently. Find out how to manage margins, costs and stock, in order to dramatically affect your profit and return; get the most out of your staff, and maximise sales.

Be part of this bespoke business initiative and join the EDF! For membership details call Amanda White on tel: 020 613 4445 or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

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The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

Member of the Month Harshita Deolia talks to Maureen Hooson, managing director of Mococo. What started out as a few jewellery parties soon blossomed into a well established business with four locations in Chester, Mold, Liverpool and Ruthin, and a new one to be opening soon in Tarporley, Cheshire.

Tell us a bit about the business…

How did it all start?

It all started about six years ago. I worked for Boodles for 22 years and I left with a view to doing something myself. I’d had fantastic training at Boodles, so I bought £250 worth of silver jewellery and started doing jewellery parties. They were really successful, so I went on to buy a shop in Ruthin, North Wales about four years ago. I was lucky that I never had to take out a loan – it was the savings from the jewellery that got me into a position where I could open up another shop in Mold. Then the third was in Chester, and a year later, another in Liverpool. My husband joined in during that time and he’s now such a huge part of the business that I couldn’t do this without him. At the end of May, we’ll have opened a fifth shop.

It’s been amazing for us!

What do you sell?

We mainly sell branded silver jewellery but we are looking into a range of diamond jewellery too. The brands we sell include Pandora, Thomas Sabo, Monica Vinader, Shaun Leane, Stephen Webster and some lovely crystal jewellery by Baccarat. We also

sell a range of Guess watches. We’ve had some fantastic news recently that we will also be stocking Links of London jewellery, so we’re really excited about that.

Is there a major seller that stands out?

Pandora is probably the big seller for us.

There’s such a huge interest in bead and charm bracelets at the moment; I don’t think we’ve seen its peak yet.

Do your four shops differ from one another in any way?

What we’ve tried to achieve when opening a new shop, or developing an existing one, is to keep the continuity of our style, so when you walk into a shop, you feel as though you are in a Mococo shop. We pride ourselves on customer service and this is consistent in all the shops. Each shop in its own way is really successful.

Where did the name Mococo come from?

Well when I started the business, it was originally going to be called Rococo and it was going to be a fashion and jewellery shop. When I saw on the internet that there were many companies already called Rococo

I thought about another name that I quite liked – Mocha. I don’t like the idea of using someone’s name as the jewellery shop, unless it’s a surname. Eventually I put Mocha and Rococo together and got Mococo.

I think it’s a nice cheery name!

You’ve recently enrolled some staff members onto our JET 1 course.

Do you encourage your staff to study?

Absolutely, we’re really passionate about training, and I told my staff it was completely voluntary. Boodles was fantastic for training – I learnt so much. I think when you get a qualification or complete a course, you feel like you have a career; it’s not just working in a shop. It’s great that we have so many members of staff doing it at the same time – they can help each other and keep each other going. It’s really exciting for them, and it’s for their own benefit.

Could you please share a story with our readers about memorable customers?

We took a phone order from an advert in The Sunday Times for a Shaun Leane Vertebrae Bracelet – quite a cutting edge design. The person wanted to come in and collect it in person so we anticipated a very trendy, young person. Actually, it turned out to be an elderly couple in their 80s from North Wales! They had taken the train, then a taxi, and finally made it into the shop.

It couldn’t have been more different to what we expected. They were such a lovely couple, so charming! They were holding hands and looking into each others’ eyes! The lady had had an operation on her spine and her husband had said she could have anything she wanted, and she chose that bracelet.

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month please email: harshita@jewellers-online.org

16 The Jeweller April 2011

Telephone + 44 (0)844 871 8454 www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk info@londonroadjewellery.co.uk

For further information â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tel: 01403 790902

BJA News |

Growing membership reflects FT journalist to speak at BJGF AGM tough new focus at BJA P

his is a tough climate in which to grow any business, yet I am delighted to be able to report that this is exactly what has happened at The BJA Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA during the past six months, since our new chief executive, Simon Rainer was appointed.

When I became chairman of the Association in 2010 I had a very clear idea of what I hoped to accomplish. Above all I wanted to increase the relevance of the Association to its members and believed this could best be achieved by getting to know their various needs, while making sure they are aware of the tangible benefits and services which membership provides.

My brief to Simon was simple. His task was to ensure that The BJA not only looked like a business and acted like a business, but that it also put the needs of its increasingly diverse membership right to the fore.

Much progress has been made. One of Simon’s first tasks was the implementation of a thorough research project on the wants of the membership. Their answers were revealing and paved the way for change.

We also looked inward and following an exhaustive strategy review in the autumn last year, amended our management reporting procedures so we can measure financial and

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membership targets on a month-to-month basis. Simple stuff perhaps, but it wasn’t being done before. Simon and his team have also worked hard to ensure that services, membership, income and expenditure targets are closely monitored.

I sincerely believe that the recent nine per cent growth in membership is testament to the fact that we have sharpened our act and both listened and responded to our membership. The first, of what I hope will be many, local forums for members took place in Brighton recently giving those who attended the opportunity to give us their feedback; discuss the issues of the day and hear at first hand about our work on their behalf.

Of equal importance has been our deepening and on-going cooperation with The National Association of Goldsmiths, particularly in the areas of security and on the global ethical debate. This close relationship is undoubtedly providing a more cohesive national policy and a stronger united voice for our industry.

They say that when the going gets tough, the tough get going and for The BJA, thanks to efforts of Simon and his team, this has most certainly been the case – and we’re not done yet.

Simon Rainer elected as CAENCOM president he BJA’s CEO Simon Rainer has been elected as the new president of the CIBJO Association Executive Networking Commission (CAENCOM), which met at the 2011 CIBJO Conference in Porto last month. CAENCOM was established in 2009 with the purpose of allowing the chief executives of jewellery associations that are members of CIBJO to communicate and pool resources, share knowledge and prevent the duplication of projects, procedures and investments, as well as to reduce costs.

“In our meeting we also identified areas where we can help each other, based on our experience, such as insuring the jewellery business, security, and skills training of team members in a variety of jewellery operations,” says Rainer. “Other areas we all need help with is the retention of membership, membership growth and the development and sharing of membership programmes. Fundamentally, it's about the relationship the associations have with their members, regarding the larger ethical debate, including the relationship with the Responsible Jewellery Council.”

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eter Marsh, manufacturing editor of The Financial Times will be the keynote speaker at the British Jewellery Giftware & Finishing Federation’s (BJGF) AGM which will take place at the NEC, Birmingham, on Thursday 23rd June 2011. Marsh will focus on ‘The future of UK manufacturing’ looking at the UK in relation to the world and explaining how the changes of the past few years might be making Britain a good place for manufacturing in the 21st century.

The meeting will also provide the chance to hear about the progress and achievements of the five trade associations which make up the Federation, including a presentation from the BJA. Members of The BJGF Federation receive one free ticket per company with further tickets available at £45.00 each + VAT. Contact Sara Augustus on 0121 236 2657 for further information.

Incredible response from members for BJA Mintel deal ollowing frequent requests posed to the BJA team for information on the UK jewellery industry, the Association has bought a Mintel package that will enable members to access past reports for free. The deal includes the September 2010 Mintel report Watches and Jewellery Retailing UK, normally worth £1,500 per copy per person.

This comprehensive 170 page report contains extremely useful market information, in addition to segmented product sector data.

“As market reports go we believe this is very comprehensive and members can also receive market information updates.

I believe all jewellery companies should be using intelligence to help with their own marketing plans; it’s encouraging that over 200 BJA members have signed up to receive this offer which we have bought into on their behalf,” comments Lindsey Straughton BJA marketing manager.

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The Voice of the Industry 19

| BJA News

Inhorgenta Award winner on British stand! ll the exhibiting UK designers were thrilled when Maya Selway won the contemporary design category in the first Inhorgenta Awards at this year’s show and interest in her pieces helped to boost visitors to the joint stand. Her oxidised silver piece Kishu Composition – “nothing lasts, nothing is finished and nothing is perfect” – was influenced by the Japanese philosophy of Wabi-Sabi. The judges included design professors, prestigious goldsmiths, international journalists and UK retailer Paul Henderson owner of Wave Contemporary Jewellery.

This year Hall C2 housed the highest number of UK designer jewellers ever and comments were very positive with regard to the interest in the work and the quality of buyers. Lindsey Straughton who visited the show and has been helping to promote UK companies and the BJA website LondonJewelleryExports.com commented: “The British are known for their originality of design and their craftsmanship is also highly praised at this show. It always amazes me when I ask exhibitors how the show is going, as they often reel off buyers from a number of European countries that they have seen; then buyers from further afield, and then mention an order or two from UK buyers who they have been wanting to supply for a while. For me that just proves how truly international this show has become.

“I was encouraged to hear very good news as the show drew to a close from three BJA member companies: the first had taken their first ever overseas orders after many years in business, the second had written their largest order ever and the third had added a new country to their growing list of sixteen countries that they now do business with – all via Inhorgenta. All in all, good news!”

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Doreth Jones – jewellery name to watch he first recipient of the Holts Academy ‘Rising Star for Graduating Designer’, sponsored by the BJA, is jewellery designer Doreth Jones. She started creating jewellery in 2004 and continued designing one-off pieces while undertaking adult education classes including those held at Holts Jewellery School. Lindsey Straughton commented, “Doreth is full of enthusiasm and talent; she has worked hard to follow her passion and I think her fashion background will help keep her fresh. I believe she is a name to watch in 2011.”

Based in London, Doreth continues to push the boundaries with experiments in both nonprecious materials such as wood and bone and precious metals like sterling silver and gold as well as rubies and diamonds. She enjoys making jewellery that is different and on-trend while still employing traditional jewellery-making techniques.

Interestingly she has already found success making jewellery for musicians such as Grace Jones, Erykah Badu and soul supremo Omar.

Today Doreth is producing ranges for wholesale and outsources part of her production to some of the city's best craftspeople. She has been gaining retail experience and absorbing consumer feedback on her jewellery while working and being stocked in the contempory Platform Gallery in Hatton Garden.

For further information email: dorethjones@live.co.uk

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20 The Jeweller April 2011

Annaloucah on the Oscar red carpet ewellery by Brighton-based BJA member Annaloucah was chosen by Livia Firth, wife of Oscar-winner Colin, to wear on the Academy Awards’ red carpet last month. As part of her ‘Green Carpet Challenge’ Livia chose to wear pieces created especially for her by collaboration between designer goldsmith Annaloucah and CRED Jewellery.

Now in its second year, the ‘Green Carpet Challenge’ which runs on Vogue.com was devised by Livia and journalist, Lucy Siegle in an effort to see if Livia could wear only ethically sourced fashion and jewellery while she accompanies her husband Colin Firth through the film industry awards season.

It was the story of the hardship and sacrifices made while mining for gold told by female Peruvian miner, Juana Pena Endova, at the launch of the Fairtrade Gold standard earlier this month, that inspired the designer to name these pieces ‘Juana’.

The design is inspired by Livia's own engagement ring. Anna used 18ct white gold along with diamonds from the Liqhobong Women Miners Cooperative in Lesotho to embellish 35 carats of traceable aquamarines from Lundazi, a community mine in Zambia.

This is the second time that Anna has been commissioned by Livia to make her Green Carpet jewels.

When Colin won his award for Best Actor at the Golden Globes back in January, Anna created for Livia an intricate two piece set, again handmade from entirely ethically sourced materials. Both sets of jewellery are to be auctioned at the end of March with all profits going to Oxfam.

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BJA members can now access The Jeweller magazine online using their membership number Visit www.thejewellermagazine.com

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Jeweller picks... ighlighting just a few prevalent trends gleaned from a jewellery show as immense and diverse as inhorgenta, Munich is nigh on impossible. From the very classic and understated to the boldly adventurous it was all there. But for those buyers seeking directional pointers there were certain forms, themes, motifs and materials that recurred – leaping from the stands to catch the eye: textural metals; matte and shiny together; mixes of materials; organic, asymmetric shapes; over-sized link chains; lattice, filigree and openwork; rose gold; petals and leaves; overlapping discs; bright, strong colour; gold or silver mesh and crochet and modern, architectural shapes.

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BASTION INVERUN

LUZ

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Created by Amsterdam-based designer Marike Hauser, the Luz collection uses, where possible, ethically extracted gold from the Ore Verde project in Colombia. Her handcrafted pieces are usually inspired by flowers and forms from nature… such as bubbles. As well as gold, she uses white gold and silver, sometimes in combination with diamonds, gemstones or pearls. www.atelierluz.nl

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CHARLOTTE

Colour and a diverse selection of gemstones are the key aspects of this diverse collection from the German Ehinger-Schwarz group (a family business, established in 1876). Enamel, ceramic, rock crystal, mother of pearl, onyx, lapis lazuli, amethyst and peridot are among the many materials that patriarch designer Wolf-Peter Schwarz employs for rings, cuffs, pendants and earrings. www.charlotte.de

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TENO

Stainless steel, black rubber and gold plate come together in this airy, chain link necklace from TeNo’s Endless collection. Made in Germany, the line – that also includes ‘partner’ rings, diamond-set pieces, watches, bead jewellery (for men as well as women) and masculine jewellery – combines traditional craftsmanship with very contemporary styling and details. www.TeNo.de

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A play on texture, colour and modern interpretations of ethnic and traditional designs and forms is clear in the various lines from bastian inverun this season. The almost moorish look of this rose goldplated and ruthium-plated silver pendant is one example in a collection that also encompasses satin matte silver tear drop, openwork pendants; hammered surface silver for pebble-like pieces and pearls set into architecturally curved rings and pendants. www.bastian-inverun.com

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TI SENTO

‘Water Drop’ is one of the sea-inspired styles from the new ‘Aqua’ collection for spring/summer 2011 by Ti Sento Milano.

Combining rhodium-plated sterling silver with a translucent lavender stone, this bold pendant is typical of the playful, vibrant and feminine feel that is the signature style of the brand. www.ibbamsterdam.com

LAPPONIA

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Alsace-based Christophe Burger, one of the five-strong international design team that creates the Lapponia collection has added these coiled silver earrings – Airie – to his popular ‘Circlestances’ line. Also new to his range is a pair of textured silver cufflinks inspired by road signs, called One Wayz. www.lapponia.com

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TEZER

While silver is a strong trend for German jewellery brand Tezer (stylised, lace-like floral forms and brushed surfaces being important), gold is still an object of desire for its customers and gold-plated pieces are an important element of the collection – as in this delicate baroque leaf design set, designed

by Sema Sezen. www.tezer-design.de

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GILD ATELIER

Using a combination of different high grade materials, Netherlands goldsmith Fraukje Teppema creates hand-made jewellery that is classic with a modern twist. Bold and textural in some cases, delicate and utterly feminine in others, the pieces are inspired by what she sees around her in Amsterdam, where her shop-cum-studio is based. www.gild-atelier.com

ANNETTE EHINGER

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Pforzheim-based jewellery designer Annette Ehinger creates very feminine jewellery that is given impact through her use of coloured gemstones – such as the citrine and topaz ones here. She cuts all the stones herself and while inspired by traditional cuts, she likes to create something new each time and no two stones emerge the same. The irregularity and natural beauty of the rough stone shines through. www.annette-ehinger.de

Target the key decision makers with The Jeweller!

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To advertise in the magazine contact Ian Francis at CUBE Publishing on tel: +44 (0) 20 7833 5500 or email: ian@cube-uk.com For subscriptions call Amanda White at the NAG on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: thejewellersubs@jewellers-online.org

Industry Update |

Katy Perry joins Thomas Sabo as the new face of the brand International lifestyle brand Thomas Sabo chose the occasion of inhorgenta, Munich to introduce its new ambassador – US pop star Katy Perry. Belinda Morris was there… t could hardly be described as an overnight success – Thomas Sabo, the brand, has been around since Thomas Sabo the man founded it in 1984 – but things have certainly come a long way in that time. It was just 11 years ago that the first ‘own’ shop was opened and 10 years since the company decided that it should be an international brand. And here we are now, in the Alte Borse, an imposing central Munich venue, waiting for the arrival of an ‘A’ list celebrity.

There’s a host of press folk from around the world; the obligatory bank of photographers and no shortage of fizz (to loosen investigative tongues). So far, so impressive. And when Ms Perry turns up (prettier in real life, pop fans may be interested to learn) she’s no monosyllabic muppet either; she’s witty, wellversed in the attributes of her new jewellery sponsors and has all the answers ready whether it’s about her grandmother’s jewellery or her favourite mascara.

Not only will she be appearing in the global ad campaigns for the three Thomas

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Sabo brands, from the charms to the timepieces, but she’ll be draped in the various pendant chains and glittering with the rings and earrings at her various official functions – the recent Grammy Awards in LA being the first prime example. It has to be said, whether you hold with the notion of celebrity being the ideal way to attract an audience to a ‘lifestyle’ brand, or whether you think it an irrelevance, perky popstrel Katy Perry, all glossy lips, long lashes, shiny hair and sleek limbs has been perfectly picked as the face of this particular label.

Leaving the serious business of studying the new collections for the fair (Thomas Sabo’s area was more a small village, complete with cinema, than a mere stand) the celebrations continued with an evening party.

If further proof was needed of this brand’s substance and significance, this big bash (entitled ‘Pop Now’) said it all. Around 1,500 guests, including retailers, celebrities and press – many flown in especially by Thomas Sabo – enjoyed an overflowing buffet and bar, as well as a riotous (and, it must be said, very good) live act courtesy of Jan Delay, who is, by all accounts, very famous on the German music scene.

Fun, funky, slick… it all rather sums up the Thomas Sabo ethos as demonstrated by the brand, that today comprises three distinct (but co-ordinating) lines: Sterling Silver, Charm Club and Watches – all designed by creative director Susanne Kolbli, who joined Sabo in the business in 1990. To keep abreast of the vagaries of fashion trends, Sterling Silver includes a ‘Seasonal’ line (this spring it’s all red hearts and lips), that sits alongside the unisex ‘Rebel at Heart’ collection. This, as the name might suggest, follows a rock theme – skulls, wings, crosses and, this year, a fleur de lys symbol are among

the iconic symbols picked out in glittering black zirconia stones and silver.

Charm Club is, of course, self-explanatory.

However, while it is aimed at anyone who has a passion for collecting, it’s not about beads. These are charms in the traditional sense: small, playful, detailed symbols that serve to describe a life and in particular a contemporary life. There are spiky heel shoes, mobile phones, ‘it’ bags, baseball boots – as well as the expected hearts, flowers and strawberries. While it was not premeditated, there is also a collection featuring glittering pearls, crowns and orbs – all very Royal Wedding!

…perky popstrel Katy Perry has been perfectly picked as the face of this particular label.

Last to be launched (in 2009) were the watches; some very obviously feminine and others, also called ‘Rebel at Heart’, that have a masculine ruggedness that hits the right note for (some) women too. ‘It Girl’ watches this season are all about hot, bright and intense colours, using materials like rubber and polycarbonate, as well as leather and stainless steel for straps. Black or white synthetic zirconia stones add a touch of modern sparkle. For him there’s more black of course, with a touch of neon as highlights.

Finally, just to underscore the lifestyle ethos of the brand, there is already a Thomas Sabo fragrance, Charm Rose, and another one planned for this summer… along with four or five more stand-alone shops in the UK alone. I feel another party coming on.

The Voice of the Industry 25

| BJA Feature

Simon says!

BJA CEO Simon Rainer discusses the issues of ‘ethical’ jewellery and the way forward for the UK industry righton was recently the venue for our first ever BJA members forum which brought together a good cross section of the membership to discuss the issues of the day. Of particular interest were the various opinions on what (for the purposes of this article) I shall refer to as the ‘ethical debate’.

Now the BJA is a very broad church and at the last count we represented well over 10,000 people involved in the UK jewellery supply chain. I could not expect all members to be totally unified in their opinion on any jewellery related subject, but what we can do as an association is to provide the pertinent information for members to make an informed decision.

The BJA has spent a considerable amount of time researching the issues surrounding the ethical debate and will shortly announce the formation of a joint working party with the National Association of Goldsmiths, to identify the issues and possible remedies.

Calling on experts in their given fields, we will initially be looking at the relationship with the Responsible Jewellery Council, frailties of the Kimberley Process; alternative sourcing routes for precious metals and stones and the introduction of Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold.

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Rough diamonds

Arising from many discussions I had at the recent Jewellery Show it is apparent that the industry is approaching this topic from many angles, with varying degrees of accuracy relating to information and opinions.

What is becoming very clear and which the Brighton forum highlighted was: where is the ethical debate going?

26 The Jeweller April 2011

So where do we start?

It is apparent that ethical trading means different things to different sectors of the industry. Many designer/makers are actively researching the issues and using ethically sourced materials. It is in this sector where awareness and action are at their highest.

Major retailers are embracing the ethical debate in order that they are seen, by their consumer base, to be trading with the highest propriety. Without decrying the fact that there are many importers, wholesalers and manufacturers who are ethically minded, they will probably be feeling the pressure exerted by the major retail chains to conform to regulatory ethical standards as currently illustrated by the Ethical Trading Initiative and Sedex Additionally, we must be aware of the power of the NGOs who are tasked with shaping opinion and in relation to the jewellery industry, have played a major part in the shaping of the Kimberley Process.

a transparent and accountable manner throughout the industry from mine to retail. Their commitment aims to reinforce consumer and stakeholder confidence in jewellery products.

The Council has developed the RJC certification system, which applies to all member businesses that contribute to the diamond and gold jewellery supply chain.

Under the RJC system, all Commercial Members of the RJC are required to be audited by accredited, third party auditors to verify their conformance with the RJC Code of Practices, and become certified under the RJC System.

For several months the BJA has been working to fully understand the workings of the RJC – this has included meetings with members who are currently going through the accreditation process and with RJC management.

In a growing climate of increasing ethical awareness in the UK jewellery industry

On one hand we have a sector of the industry that actively wants to become involved, on the other sectors being pulled into the debate as a business necessity.

So on one hand we have a sector of the industry that actively wants to become involved, on the other sectors being pulled into the debate as a business necessity.

As a positive move forward, I suggest that the industry fully understands how the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) works and the benefits it can bring to both passive and active participants in the ethical debate.

Set up in 2005 to promote responsible practices throughout the world diamond and gold industries, the RJC is an international not-for-profit organisation currently bringing together over 260 member companies across the worldwide jewellery supply chain. Its members are committed to promoting responsible ethical, human rights, social and environmental practices in

and a greater demand for corporate social responsibility, the RJC provides solutions to those companies wishing to get engaged and demonstrate a level of commercial propriety.

Currently (March 2011), there are 268 worldwide members, of which 33 are in the UK. Of this number, 14 companies are members of the BJA. As one who has spent countless hours debating the full spectrum of the ethical debate, I can only conclude that as an industry we need a starting point to implement new and more responsible trading initiatives that are universally recognised – the RJC is a good place to begin.

For further information please visit: www.responsiblejewellery.com

Junghans 150 Years Anniversary watch Meister Chronoscope 027 / 7122 Automatic, mechanical movement J880.1 with display for date and day, chronoscope with seconds stop.

Retail ÂŁ1340.00 For an appointment to retail please contact: Telephone: 01698 283388 Fax: 01698 285677 Email: jon.vincent@btconnect.com Distributor and service centre for Junghans in the UK and Eire

| Legal Jeweller

The Bribery Act 2010: Do you have a defence?

The implementation of the Bribery Act this summer requires companies to take responsibility in determining the origin of goods, or risk up to 10 years imprisonment and/or an unlimited fine. Amanda Cantwell, associate legal executive at Boyes Turner, shows you how to stay one step ahead. rappling with new laws is part and parcel of doing business. Understanding the Bribery Act is no exception. But, unlike other legislation, to avoid falling foul of this Act companies must be proactive and the jewellery industry is no exception. Sourcing minerals and metals is fundamental to the jewellery industry. However, the conviction of Rio Tinto executives in China last year, coupled with the value of precious gems and their ease of transport attracting criminal attention, highlights the industry’s vulnerability to bribery and corruption.

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the UK. Anyone performing services for, or on behalf of, the organisation is also caught regardless of their capacity – this could be an agent, employee, subsidiary or someone in the upward or downward supply chain including importers, designers, suppliers and customers.

The ambit of the Act is far reaching. The penalties for breach are severe; possible imprisonment and unlimited fines, not to mention damage to your brand reputation.

Is there a defence?

The only defence available to organisations is demonstrating there are ‘adequate procedures’ in place to prevent persons associated with it engaging in bribery.

So what constitutes ‘adequate procedures’?

The term is not defined but the Ministry of Justice (MoJ) is producing guidance, which we hope will give organisations a steer as to the types of procedures which will need to be in place.

Adequate procedures

Why the panic?

The Act creates four offences, including a new strict liability offence. A ‘commercial organisation’ is guilty of an offence if a person associated with it bribes someone to gain commercial advantage.

Because the definition of ‘commercial organisation’ is so wide, every type of UK business, trade or profession is caught by the Act, even if the activity takes place outside

28 The Jeweller April 2011

The MoJ guidance consists of six principles that organisations should consider. Particular emphasis is placed on risk assessments and due diligence. Key to a successful defence is knowing who you do business with and making sure that anyone associated with the organisation knows you have a zero rated anti-bribery policy.

Critical to implementing this is understanding what risks your organisation faces, so you should undertake regular and comprehensive risk assessments. While organisations are fairly used to this, particularly in relation to internal and financial controls, we now need to go one step further and assess both internal and external risks in relation to bribery generally.

Some practical pointers There is a pressing need for all organisations to review existing policies or create new ones which are clear, accessible and practical.

Many of you operate in territories which are considered high-risk, where bribery is commonplace. Use of agents, intermediaries and other third parties may expose your organisation to a greater risk of bribery, especially if associated persons are susceptible to underhand payments, such as facilitation payments, which are outlawed under the new Act. So, knowing who you are doing business with is crucial. Who are your suppliers and designers? Where do you get your raw materials from – are these countries in the high risk category? With price fluctuations in precious metals, how are you monitoring pricing mechanisms and payment terms?

Are your internal controls and procedures sophisticated enough to identify financial irregularities? The list is endless but keeping tabs on the supply chain is essential.

Thought should also be given to corporate hospitality – there is a fine line between what is and is not acceptable under the new Act so clear policies on the use of corporate hospitality should be put in place.

With the summer fast approaching and with the onus on the company to prove it has adequate procedures in place, how effective is your organisation’s anti-bribery programme?

Advice offered here is for general guidance only and is not a substitute for taking specific legal advice on an individual basis.

You can contact Amanda Cantwell at Boyes Turner on tel: 0118 952 7288, email: acantwell@boyesturner.com or visit: www.boyesturner.com

A distinctive and masculine collection, combining leather with oxidised silver for an adventurous look.

For further details please contact:

Pranda UK Ltd

Pranda UK Ltd

Tel: 020 8979 3896

Tel: 020 8979 3896

Email: prandabrands@pranda.co.uk

Email: prandabrands@pranda.co.uk

These days men can express themselves with more than just a status symbol timepiece and flash of bright suit lining… they can add a black diamond bangle or two. So, is the male jewellery market flourishing asks Belinda Morris?

Just J

MANPOWER ack in the olden days (ooh, about 1981) when I used to write about the men’s rag trade, I remember cross-questioning a bunch of truculent high street multiple buyers (all men) on the subject of colourful V-necks. French and Italian retailers were ordering them, I said, so why weren’t they?

Because British men wouldn’t buy them, they replied. How do you know, if you don’t show them any? Cue lots of hurrumphing about me being a mere hack, a female one at that, and what did I know? A season or so later and blokes were cavorting around in neon parachute silk shirts and leggings (in broad daylight)… which just goes to prove something or other.

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Goldmajor

30 The Jeweller April 2011

I’m reminded of all this, a lifetime later, when the question of men’s jewellery arises.

From my view – admittedly on the sideline of things – the male consumer might just be tempted into being a tad more adventurous… if only he was given the choice. As statements of personality watches are great of course, but they’re not jewellery, not really. And cufflinks are functional (as well as decorative) items, so don’t really count either – unless they’re on the flamboyant side. What I’m talking about is jewellery worn purely as an accessory – a pendant, bangle or extra ring or two.

Is today’s man in the street being offered a choice? Does he want it even?

Men’s Jewellery | Designer Stephen Webster, whose own men’s line is on the edgier side of things, is upbeat on the subject. “Nowadays the selection of men’s jewellery on offer is amazing.

Compared to even five years ago there is virtually something for everyone,” he says. “Despite the current economic climate the men’s jewellery market is buoyant. We in particular are compensating by offering a diversity of product; pieces that make a statement through their creative edge rather than simply bling and in these difficult times people tend to look for something a little bit out of the ordinary and that extra bit special.

We feel that these are reasons why our men’s sales are still strong,” he adds.

Unless we see a renaissance in the peacock male (last spotted circa 1973) the chances of men’s jewellery out-performing that of women’s are pretty slim, but it is a sector of the market that has grown over the last five years or so… and is continuing to get bigger. Storm, for instance, has seen a 30 per cent increase in sales over the last year and each season its range gets bigger.

Fred Bennett

“Nowadays the selection of men’s jewellery on offer is amazing… compared to even five years ago there is virtually something for everyone”

amounts of jewellery – whether these are fast-fashion pieces or fine jewellery. The market has to keep up to speed to ensure that the customers’ needs are met”, he adds.

After a fashion

Storm

“I started to specialise in men’s jewellery about six years ago and have seen a steady rise in demand since then,” says John Greed of John Greed jewellery in Lincoln, who sells on on-line as well as from his shop. “Men have always wanted jewellery but have often been unable to find what they want.

This is especially true in conventional high street shops,” he adds.

“The men’s jewellery market is absolutely expanding,” says James Sellors, who joined the family business, CW Sellors, a few years ago with the introduction of his Meteorite collection of cufflinks. “In today’s society it is becoming ever more acceptable and fashionable for men to wear increasing

Robert Tateossian, a jewellery designer and retailer who started out with a cufflink line, sees the movement as part of a wider interest in accessories in general. “They are

dressing up and being more experimental with fashion – for example wearing a suit with no tie to create a casual and comfy look that is still smart and then bringing in masculine leather or rough beaded bracelets to complete the look.

If men do wear a tie, they are accessorising it with a very short and narrow tie clip – generally they are more comfortable wearing jewellery than ever before,” he says.

Designer Iain Henderson, whose sales of men’s jewellery account for 70 per cent of his business, agrees. “The days have gone when men would wear only a wedding ring,”

Sonia Spencer

he says. “They are now buying rings for everyday wear and they are also wearing cufflinks, bangles and pendants. But we have found that you can’t go too fussy with your designs – there’s a balance to be had.”

It’s pretty much a given that we can thank footballers, musicians and the odd actor (all hail Johnny Depp) for this blossoming interest in self-adornment among men.

“Big influences are Beckham (obvious, but

Baldessarini

The Voice of the Industry 31

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| Men’s Jewellery Northampton, finds that although he is selling more men’s jewellery these days, much of it is to do with women buying for men. Men buying for themselves usually come in with their wives for reassurance.

He does, however, add that the likes of Justin Bieber are starting to give men the confidence to wear jewellery.

Regardless of confidence levels, it does come back to supply as well as demand.

“The fact that more men are wearing jewellery doesn’t mean they are getting more adventurous,” says Greed, “it’s just that they have found what they are looking for as availability increases.”

SHO

Shaun Leane

still a force), musicians like Kings of Leon and rappers like Kanye West and Pharrell who have merged gangster rap style with that preppy look,” says Matthew Hambly, former deputy style and lifestyle editor at FHM. “I do think that men are experimenting more – they want something vaguely gothic in tone to wear with their deep V-neck T-shirts and leather jackets. The All Saints effect is not to be underestimated,” he says, citing the hip high street fashion retailer.

“The increase in male grooming products and fashion stores shows that modern men seem to take more of an interest in their personal style, which may also have had an impact on the jewellery market,” adds Greed. And of course the influence of women – whether you like it or not – can’t be over-stated. Wes Suter, MD of Steffans in

Simon Carter

32 The Jeweller April 2011

Stephen Webster

So, perhaps it’s more to do with the jewellery retailer becoming bolder? “I think both retailers and consumers are being more adventurous,” says Simon Carter, who has just launched a men’s jewellery range to complement his existing watches and cufflinks. “Where in the past dog tags and ID bracelets dominated most branded ranges, now gothic skulls, crystal wings and beaded bracelets are commonplace.

“Shops still play it fairly safe, with the staple dog tag, cross and curb chain always hitting the top of the best seller list,” adds Barry Bennett of Gecko Jewellery, “but there is a definite move towards edgier jewellery with the rise in popularity of leather. This is combined with stainless steel or silver, threaded through beads, with magnetic catches and tribal details. We have also seen an increase in the popularity of skulls and charms.” Every launch of the men’s Fred Bennett line is expanded and altered with new core lines with a classic twist, as well as more individual, trend-led pieces that appeal to the more fashion savvy customer.

“Certainly, retailers are becoming more adventurous,” says Daniel Ozel of Unique.

“High end jewellers in particular, who two or three years ago maybe wouldn’t consider men’s jewellery or jewellery in stainless steel – which is what we use mostly for our men’s pieces. But there is a move from ‘bling bling’ to a more understated or urban look with leather.”

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| Men’s Jewellery The onyx backplate on his skull and crossbones double dog tag was so well received that he has been encouraged to add tiger’s eye, haematite and blue goldstone into the next line. The handcrafted pieces in silver or gold by Tateossian include gemstones, pearls, Swarovski crystals and fibre optic glass, although it should be pointed out that the Rare Stone Collection using 18ct gold is a line of cufflinks rather than ‘out-there‘ jewellery pieces.

“We like our pieces to have a very tactile feel, so we use leather, stones and various materials,” says Rajiv Agarwalla at Seven. “There seems to be a trend at the moment for using exotic sounding stones, which is definitely positive as long as it remained true to the original design ethos.

We have also moved towards offering a

CW Sellors

Material Gain Unsurprisingly, the key to success with men’s jewellery lies crucially in the choice of materials. “With 10 years experience producing full men’s collections we have learned a lot about what is likely to turn men on,” says Webster. “Men love manly materials.

“Shops still play it fairly safe with the staple dog tag, cross and curb chain always hitting the top of the best seller list”

carbon fibre, rubber and enamel. And while leather is Fred Bennett’s big seller, gemstones, wood inlay, silver, stainless steel, tiger’s eye and diamonds also make an appearance.

Aargaard’s men’s collection focusses primarily on stainless steel, rubber and leather with added touches of gold links, black and white ceramic and CZ stones.

At Simon Carter, a masculine effect is created with a mix of polished, gunmetal and antiqued finishes… as well as through the gothic and industrial influences.

Iain Henderson

For example flint, bloodstone or Spiderman jasper. We are always looking for new things to introduce. I swear if there was a stone called testosterone it would be a winner.”

It’s a formula that others have also cottoned on to. Unique combines steel with silver, gold and diamonds, titanium with platinum and then the more humble steel with leather,

34 The Jeweller April 2011

Seven

more innovative and design-led product – a more luxury look.”

While ultra sparkly stuff is considered just too feminine, customers of Shaun Leane clearly have a taste of adventure as the designer doesn’t shy away from using major stones like diamonds and rubies for his men’s jewellery – but mixing them with other materials like leather and enamel creates an edgier, more masculine feel. The use of black diamonds is also an obvious way to introduce subtle shimmer into men’s jewellery.

Aargaard

¯

| Men’s Jewellery Tips on selling jewellery to men “Most men’s shopping is goal-orientated so ask them directly what they want. When presenting them with jewellery, get them onto their safe, home turf as soon as possible.

Usually this means talking technical and then slipping in an ego-boosting metaphor – then the sale is yours! Ask any women, they’ll tell you how simple men are!”

John Greed of John Greed Jewellery, Lincoln “Men lack 3D jewellery imagination. They MUST see it on. So don’t ask if they want to try pieces you suggest, but get straight down to putting it on for them. The greatest resistance is to trying it on, so overcome/bypass any objections to this. The most common thing I hear from guys is ‘I didn’t think I was going to like that on, but… ‘from there they are like kids with new shoes. Just cut the ticket off because they’ll be wearing it home!”

Jon Quale, owner, Justice, Bath and Winchester “Men love watches; if you sell jewellery like you sell watches you’re made. Men also like things to match, so play on that”. Wes Suter, MD Steffans, Northampton

Tomasz Donacik

“I still think some men feel awkward walking into a jewellery shop looking for jewellery for themselves. They need to identify an area that is theirs and not have it mixed in with other jewellery on a shelf/cabinet.” Iain Henderson, Iain Henderson Designs

I wanna tell you a story…

“The other vital part [of reaching men] is the name,” continues Webster, whose own lines have been variously titled Rayman, Thorn, Heartbreaker, Aces High, London’s Calling and most recently No Regrets. “They have all provided stories, which seem to be the sort of thing that hooks a guy and keeps him coming back. Music, architecture, gambling… we portray a lifestyle, and that gives a man the security he needs to wear the product.

It’s something they are used to in all aspects of their life; it’s a tribal thing.”

Shaun Leane’s collections are inspired by organic forms, but while looking beautiful and fragile there are ‘hidden elements of strength and danger’ as in the thorn of a rose, tusks or vertebrae. The designs of the Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Victorian periods, as well as fashion and architecture are also important sources of inspiration for the designer.

Unique

36 The Jeweller April 2011

Tateossian

Sonja Spencer’s vintage sports car cufflinks; Thomasz Donacik’s pistol pendants and grouse head cufflinks; SHO’s playing card pieces; CW Sellors’ tyre tread FFWD designs; Goldmajor’s black lizard pendants and steel handcuff-inspired bangles; Simon Carter’s industrial motifs… they’re all safe in their masculinity. Also well within the comfort zone of most men is Iain Henderson’s source of inspiration; having a mechanic as a father meant that he was around cars and motorbikes all his life. “I have gained a lot of influences from moving parts in engines and the use of different materials

being used in conjunction with one another,” he explains.

Thus stainless steel and silver are mixed in one ring, with an engineering technique used to pin the metals together and the process has been repeated with 9ct and 18ct white, yellow and rose gold as well as palladium and platinum. Customers are free to pick and choose the metals, finishes, channels and diamonds that they want – or don’t want. “Male customers really enjoy this as it gets them involved in the design process,” he adds. “It works great with the male mind I set.” Tap into that and the deal’s done.

BJA Cufflinks |

OFF THE CUFF While double-cuff shirts continue to exist there will always be a need for cufflinks. They don’t have to be traditional though.

Here’s a selection from BJA members of contemporary styles to suit the modern suited and booted.

Josef Koppman

Nina Breddal

These luxurious cufflinks are hand made with dedicated, caring craftsmanship by Josef in his OXO Tower studio. The smooth, tactile finishes of the sterling silver offset the abstract textures of the 24ct gold revealing its lustre and building up the natural beauty of the Australian boulder opals. RRP: £1590 Tel: 020 7928 6252 www.josefkoppmann.com

These stunning ammonite cufflinks are solid sterling silver, available with a gold-plated, oxidised or polished finish. They are beautifully made and supplied ready boxed with a free polishing cloth. RRP: £125 Tel: 01932 340433 www.ninabreddal.com

Latham and Neave Latham and Neave produce minimalist, heavy cufflinks with a luxury feel. Their Dune styles are solid silver lozenges with the tactile, textured, cool rippled dune surface – they’re stand-out, minimal and classic with a twist. RRP: £80 Tel: 020 7354 2249 www.lathamandneve.co.uk

Hoxton London The Hoxton London range launched by IBB three years ago has now grown into a comprehensive selection of over 50 styles. The range is fully supported with a point of sale display which holds fifteen pairs, which are stylishly packaged with both inner and outer boxes and a branded carrier bag. These cufflinks can also be purchased as part of a Hoxton men’s range display.

The featured rectangular Sterling silver cufflinks are Rhodium plated for increased longevity and set with marcasite. RRP: £125 Tel: 020 7025 2500 or visit: www.hoxtonlondon.co.uk

Anika Burman

Mounir

Cufflinks are a new addition to the Demon collection by Annika Burman. A cheeky demon motif is positioned at an angle on the cuff. With a rough texture, the cufflinks also feature a curved nail design as a fastening. Available in 22ct gold vermeil or silver. RRP: gold £224 / silver: £114 Tel: 020 75033846 www.annikaburman.com

Mounir London has a new range of modern sterling silver and oxidised sterling silver cufflinks with a selection of perfectly cut and set gemstones: black onyx, prenite, smoky quartz and cognac quartz to name just a few.

Average price of cufflinks to complement any suit is £100 RRP. Tel: 020 8780 5373 www.mounir.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 37

| Opinion: John Henn “

here he goes again, swanning off to another foreign destination”, I hear you say. Well, for sure I am in Porto, just an Easyjet flight away from England, but the rain is falling – while you enjoy beautiful sunshine. Then the algae-infested swimming pool mysteriously empties, while a local dignitary drives us to within an inch of slitting our wrists at the opening ceremony. The regional government had subsidised the

T

One of the architects from the World Diamond Council tried to portray an improving situation within the Certification Scheme, but the harsh reality is the KP is being sucked into a black hole. Currently, dealers are being offered bags of rough diamonds routinely from non-approved sources and the really disappointing thing is some are buying them. The cities of the world’s dictatorships are thick with the

Postcard from Porto John Henn reports from the 2011 CIBJO Conference, held last month in Porto, Portugal. event to the tune of €70,000 so it seemed appropriate to let him continue on and on and on! I can understand why we may have had difficulties in the 17th Century getting on with the Portugese over the Spice Islands – if I had access to the ten pound cannons on the roof of this building I’d have had no qualms about firing them!

Don’t get any ideas UK government – they are expecting it to add five per cent to the gold price.

Corporate Social Responsibility, or CSR, are the words of the event. They have been around for a while but momentum is building. The big mining, manufacturing, and retailing companies – 260 in total – are already on the wagon as members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (www.responsiblejewellery.com). Don’t underestimate this, it is coming to a store near you. There is no question that you need to be aware. The NAG is a founder member so you are well-informed with your CEO being on the board, but you need to consider joining in your own right, because the nation will decide, probably without you even knowing that they were looking. It is the world of online reviews where the consumers’ decision will be made. If you need further confirmation look up ISO 26000 on Google and knock yourself out.

No CIBJO event would be complete without an update about the Kimberly Process.

38 The Jeweller April 2011

greed of the individual dealers who put their profits in front of their conscience. While the KP can only recommend to the offending authorities that they address these issues, they cannot apply any more direct pressure.

It is a voluntary scheme and should perhaps have a little more moral support form the UN in particular, who seem uninterested to act. This is a festering sore in the side of our industry and needs to be sorted before we lose control of it all together.

Let me tell you about The Wall Street Reform Act. In April this is going to be brought into law in the USA where, it seems, the desire to have a conscience has snagged the jewellery trade. In an attempt to restrict the minerals that may come from the Democratic Republic of Congo, manufacturers of everyday electronic products that use the minerals tin, tantalum, wolframite

and gold, must be able to verify the origin of the mineral. This will effect around 1,000 US public companies and is non-negotiable.

Imagine the problems that a refiner bringing material from all around the world will face to separate the sources of the material, and prove none of it came from the DRC! It is proposed, but not confirmed, to exclude gold already in circulation and recycled material. Don’t get any ideas UK government – they are expecting it to add five per cent to the gold price.

A little about Porto. You should come.

Last night, keen not to eat the same food as we had for lunch, dinner, and lunch the day before again, we went on a quest for fresh fish – an Atlantic fishing fleet is based less than five kms from here. Taking a taxi to a recommendation on the edge of the city, we identified that the place was shut as the taxi sped off. Finding our way back on a local bus and walking through the world heritage site that makes up the old town, we surprisingly found a lovely cafe on the waterfront, and had a great dinner, not a fish in sight. The people are friendly and once we had mastered a few polite phrases their faces lit up.

Two other items were confirmed: the installation of a centre of excellence in Antwerp where CSR among other things will be taught by CIBJO, all funded by the UN, and there are great fish to enjoy in Porto!

The last thing to say is that on the issue of illegally-sold diamonds England is safe for the moment, but the drums of client conscience are beating…

40 The Jeweller April 2011

Security Update |

Fighting back!

Long sentences, black eyes and more pensioners becoming ‘have-a-go heroes’… Michael Hoare reports on the ongoing fight against crime that targets the jewellery industry.

Frontline Reports

Latest Data

The latest monthly bulletin from SaferGems features reports of the sentencing of two robbers who attempted to steal jewellery from an antique shop in the aptly named Battle in East Sussex last year. The robbers, aged 21 and 31, got more than they bargained for when two lady assistants, aged 44 and 67, set about them with iron bars before members of the public intervened to detain one of the miscreants and police arrived. Now, I don’t condone violence, but there was some satisfaction to be had, not only from the six and seven year sentences handed down, but also from one of the ‘mug’ shots showing the ‘shiner’ that the redoubtable ladies had dished out!

Stories of ‘have-a-go’ heroes have abounded since Northampton’s indefatigable Mrs Timson hit the headlines in February, but they don’t all involve pensioners. One brave young man, believed to be in his twenties, was shown in the media chasing an alleged armed robber in Peterborough, knocking his gun from his hand and attempting to wrestle him to the ground. Nor was violence always used. One unidentified pensioner, believed to be in his seventies, relieved four alleged jewellery robbers in Bury St. Edmunds of their ill-gotten gains by the simple expedient of swiping their loot as they attempted to make off on two motorcycles.

SaferGems has been in operation for over eighteen months now, but with the close of 2010 we have the first full year of data in our possession, and it makes very interesting reading. For instance, of the 585 incidents reported to the scheme, we know that 106 were robberies according to police classification; that 40 involved the use of firearms; in 21 cases travelling salespeople were the targets; and that over £3 million worth of goods have been stolen. We also

Thames Valley, and Metropolitan Police heading the league tables for these particular offences. Fraud meanwhile remains relatively unreported with only 31 attempted offences on record.

However, the purpose of SaferGems is not simply to collect data, but to glean and circulate intelligence. The results this year have been remarkable, with more arrests, longer charge sheets, and more crime prevented as a result of our close co-operation with the police. With the budget cuts beginning to bite, it seems inevitable that the police will have to rely more heavily on intelligence gathered by the private sector; fully justifying T H March’s and NAG’s groundbreaking decision to establish the SaferGems initiative.

Romanians Arrested On Friday 14th January 2011 two thefts took place at jewellery premises in Southampton and Farnham, Surrey. As a result of a SaferGems alert circulation both were linked, and another offence in Bromley on the 12th February was identified. Furthermore, as the result of the SaferGems alert being seen by another jewellery shop owner in the Bromley area on the 24th February, a family of three Romanian males, aged 11, 34 and 44, were arrested having visited other jewellery premises. Following interviews with them on 25th February, two suspects have been jointly charged with all the offences identified to date (Southampton /Farnham and Bromley). They will be appearing at

The results this year have been remarkable, with more arrests, longer charge sheets, and more crime prevented as a result of our close co-operation with the police. know the most likely times for such an offence to take place, and that the West Midlands, Metropolitan, and Greater Manchester police areas were the hardest hit, closely followed by Thames Valley.

At least £3 million worth of stock was stolen during the 77 smash & grabs and aggravated burglaries that were reported to SaferGems; while commercial burglaries accounted for 59 reports, with over £2 million worth of goods stolen. On the other hand, 223 offences of theft were reported during the year. Over 100 involved distraction or sleight of hand techniques, with Kent,

South West Magistrates Court, Guildford, this month. Yet another example of SaferGems’ success. For more information, to register, or to make a report, call 0845 2727 802, fax 0845 2727 803, email: intel@safergems.org.uk or go to the website at: www.safergems.org.uk

w w w. s a f e r g e m s . o r g . u k

The Voice of the Industry 41

Image courtesy of The Opal People

Flooding in Australia, the emergence of Ethiopian opal and a proliferation of synthetic look-alike stones are all factors at play in today’s opal market. Mary Brittain spoke to some BJA members who work with this fascinating gem to find out more. “

e are totally in love with opal – all opal.

We work confidently with Australian opal and love cutting free-form shapes.

We have a strong following of customers collecting our designs, all of which are made with Australian opal mined by our supplier over thirty years ago – it is renowned for its stability,” says Chris Sellors of the Shropshire fine jewellery producer, C. W. Sellors.

Sellors, who had recently returned from the Tucson Gem Fair when we spoke, was particularly keen to emphasise the stability of the Australian opals with which his business works.

“Four years ago in Tucson I saw the appearance of rough opal from Ethiopia, which offers really exciting colours. However, I was warned that as beautiful as they are, these are not very stable; [but liable to] cracking and losing colour. To my amazement this year, the amount of Ethiopian opal now cut into cabochons and faceted on gem dealers’ booths, was extremely noticeable.

“The look and colour is quite distinctive and at the moment it is being offered at an astonishingly low price. I do hope this opal will stand the test of time as these wonderful stones will have a lot to offer jewellery designers and manufacturers for many years to come; keeping the opal story exciting and interesting. However buyers do need

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42 The Jeweller April 2011

to beware that Ethiopian opal has not been tried and tested in terms of the amount of time out of the mine nor in being set,” he adds.

Laura Pugh of The Opal People, agrees.

The company, which she runs in conjunction with her husband Lewi, is based in Walsden, Lancashire and is the UK’s leading specialist, opal cutter. It also provides custom-cutting services and will soon be running opal cutting/lapidary workshops to UK clients.

All the Australian opal the company offers is 100 per cent ethically sourced and bought, Australian opal pendant from C W Sellors

in the rough, directly from the mines of Australia which Lewi Pugh visits personally each year.

“Opals are most commonly found in Australia but they can also be found in Mexico, Peru, Honduras, USA, Brazil and Ethiopia. However most of the opal mined outside of Australia and Mexico is very unstable,” Laura Pugh explains.

So is it the instability of opal which has given it its unlucky connotations? “No, the stone is not that unstable, but some superstitious people believe it will bring you bad luck, especially if it not your birthstone and there are a lot of tales and legends as to why it is believed to be unlucky,” she says.

One theory is that because opal has the red of the ruby, the green of the emerald and blue of the sapphire all in one stone, the early merchants of the rubies, emeralds and sapphires did not want it to cannibalise their sales and thus spread rumours about opals being linked to famine, pestilence and death. But in fact, as Laura points out, there are also plenty of contrary legends which paint the opal as a talisman for luck and good fortune with Queen Victoria being a particular champion of the stone.

The extraordinary colours and internal ‘fire’ of the opal are certainly its major selling points. “A lot of people associate opals with the cheap, white stones found in £15 rings and are unaware that they come in a stunning range of colours,” says Laura.

In fact opals come in tones from milky white through grey, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, magenta, rose, pink, slate, olive, brown

BJA Feature | and black. Green opal is the most common with reds and black opals the most rare.

According to Laura, black opal, which is found in the Lightning Ridge Opal Mines in Australia, is becoming more and more sought after but unfortunately some of the mines where it is found are now closed following this winter’s devastating floods.

“The Australian floods have caused a huge amount of worry for the opal industry.

A lot of mines are flooded and the estimated time for the water to disperse is a year.

However, this could prove to be a blessing in disguise as the water can wash away surface dirt revealing previously unseen opal veins, but for now a lot of miners are going to suffer financially,” Pugh explains.

Nor is water the miners only problem.

As Lewi has discovered during his visits, many of the mines are so remote that they are not connected to the electricity grid and rely on diesel generators for their power, the costs of which have rocketed with the high price of oil. Their difficulties are compounded by the fluctuation of the Australian dollar against European and American currencies.

Fake opal is widespread and is very convincing when set into gold and silver.

“Many Australian miners are questioning whether it is financially worthwhile to carry on mining. In the 1960s, 85 per cent of the world’s opal came from the mines at Coober Pedy. Now there are less than 20 miners there and their average age is 65,” says Pugh who believes that the miners’ demise has been further exacerbated by the rise of the synthetic opal. “These are produced in the laboratory and unfortunately, to the untrained eye appear to offer the best of opal without the expensive price-tag,” he says.

Chris Sellors, who is also concerned about the burgeoning of synthetic stones, agrees. “Fake opal is widespread and is very convincing when set into gold and silver.

Worryingly it is now appearing on the second-hand market and it is extremely hard to distinguish at a glance in small and modest sizes. That said, most of it is set badly with large stones, looking far too good to be real, instantly giving it away,” he adds.

Another threat to quality opal sales is the burgeoning trade in doublets and triplets.

Taking care of opals – some tips for your customers • Opals are composed of silica gel and are thus softer and more fragile than most crystalline gems.

• Opals contain 3 to 20 per cent water and shouldn’t be allowed to freeze or dry out.

• In the case of solid opal, an occasional light rinsing in fresh water is recommended.

However, a doublet or triplet opal should never be put in water as this can cause permanent damage.

• Avoid plastic bags and dry storage conditions when storing opal. Soft cloth bags with padding are ideal. If storing a solid opal, take it out occasionally for a wipe with a damp cloth or a dip in fresh water.

• Use a soft dry cloth to clean opals.

• Opals shouldn’t be worn when doing household chores or gardening as they will scratch, nor should they be worn when taking something out of the oven.

• With care, opals may be enjoyed for many years to come.

As Pugh explains. “A doublet opal is not a solid opal – it is made of thin slices of fine quality opal (generally light opal) glued to a backing piece of black potch (or common opal), glass, jet or Queensland ironstone, making it resemble natural black opal or Queensland boulder opal. A triplet is basically a doublet, with a dome of quartz on top which effectively sandwiches the opal and protects it from damage. This is fine so long as those using the practice divulge this information to their clients and do not try to pass them off as quality stones.”

This being the case, it is increasingly important for those buying and selling opals to know and trust their supplier. “I believe the supply chain has got shorter; as a manufacturer you have to know your source getting back to the mine or as close to it as possible. Customers purchasing opal jewellery should not be shy to ask for this information and should pass it onto the end customer making the purchase more informed and interesting,” says Sellors.

The London designer-maker Maria Helena Spector agrees. Spector has recently started

visiting Peru to buy her opal direct from lapidaries who in turn buy rock directly from the mines. “Andean opal is very hard to find and to work with because it’s brittle. It’s also highly sought after by collectors, so two years ago when one of my lapidaries offered me a big rock of first grade quality I bought it and then we cut the beads together. A year later I bought another lot direct from a mine and cut that into the shape of fans and half moons,” she explains.

Using these stones Spector has created a collection which brings the opal right to the forefront of contemporary jewellery design.

She is not alone in her passion for the stone. 2011 is undoubtedly seeing a real renaissance in the popularity of the opal with a clutch of big-name designers including Ornella Iannuzzi and Josef Koffmann also opting for opal and using its spectacular properties to create a new generation of opal jewellery which is as exciting as it is different.

With thanks to The Opal People and Chris Sellors for their assistance with this article.

Andean opal, silver and rock crystal necklace by Maria Helena Spector

The Voice of the Industry 43

| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

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Antique JEWELLERY The Jewels of the Celts Jo Young looks at the rich tradition of jewellery-making among the Irish, Scottish and Welsh people, and explains how these proud nations’ best known and loved designs and traditions began.

Claddagh ring

Scotland In the never-never world of political correctness, we are all as one in this great nation of ours. We are told that we are not in the first instance English, say, or Scottish or Welsh, but that we belong to a broader and more inclusive collective – we are encouraged to identify ourselves as British before we affiliate ourselves to any other tribe or racial group.

In the real world, however, where people decide their loyalties according to emotions and not theories, many people feel themselves to belong to their own distinct nation

44 The Jeweller April 2011

before they ‘belong’ to the British Isles. This, my Caledonian friends tell me, is certainly true in Scotland, where the moniker ‘Briton’ can often stick in people’s throats; “When it comes to sport, we’re Scottish until we start winning, then we’re British”, said one – but that’s another tale.

As any archaeologist will tell you, jewellery can be incredibly revealing about a person, a tribe or a nation and how it sees itself – think of the extraordinary jewellery collections on display in the Victoria and Albert and British museums and the insight they give us

Luckenbooth brooch

into the lives and passions of ancient peoples.

And so it is in Scotland, where a number of jewellery traditions have been established, among them the Luckenbooth brooch.

Luckenbooth brooch This aesthetically rather lovely brooch design is, rather like the Irish Claddagh, comprised of a heart or two intertwined hearts, topped by a crown. They are generally made of silver and though mostly quite plain and unadorned, can also be found engraved or set with stones.

The name of this piece of jewellery comes from the ‘luckenbooths’ that could be found in Scottish cities; these were stalls or small silver and goldsmiths’ workshops where you could buy jewellery or trinkets. Dating back to the 15th Century, these were to be found around Edinburgh’s Royal Mile and were essentially Edinburgh’s first proper shops.

As retailing grew in social importance and became more sophisticated in the early 1800s, these stalls were demolished.

Again, rather like the Claddagh ring, the Luckenbooth brooch is a traditional love token, with a specifically Scottish provenance.

It too probably derives from the Roman Modern Celtic rings from Clogau Gold

Antique Jewellery | Fede tradition, and appeared first in Scotland in the 17th Century.

The brooch is, even today, often given as an engagement or wedding gift, but was traditionally also given to young babies in an almost talismanic gesture. Among a nation so historically afeared of witchcraft, it is perhaps no surprise that it was for a long time known as a ‘witch brooch’, and was used by superstitious families to protect children from the ‘evil eye’.

Being cheaper than gold – the strict preserve of the very wealthy – silver was and is the traditional material used for making these brooches, as it was used for most lucky charms. Though generally simple, some surviving antique Luckenbooth brooches are set with paste gems or semiprecious stones, and some have been engraved with personal messages, initials and dates.

Luckenbooth brooch

Fascinatingly – by virtue of its obscurity – the Luckenbooth brooch has appeared on the decorated clothing of the native people of North America, specifically the Iriquois.

It is thought that these silver brooches were used as a trading material during the early settling of the continent’s east coast.

To add further to the already rich history of the brooch, the Luckenbooth brooch was also said to have been given by Mary Queen of Scots to Lord Darnley, her husband, upon their marriage. Though theirs was hardly a relationship rich in romance – Mary herself being fairly heavily implicated in his murder – the brooch’s connection to this most thrilling era in Scottish regal history cannot help but add to its appeal.

It is worth noting, however, that much of what we think of as being ‘Celtic’ in design was reworked by the monks of Kells, Lindisfarne and Durrow – the scholars used these patterns to illuminate their famous illustrated works (The Books of Kells and Durrow now being housed in Dublin, the Lindisfarne Gospels in London’s British Library).

Rather like the Claddagh ring and the Luckenbooth brooch, Celtic jewellery holds a significance to the modern peoples of Ireland, Scotland and Wales, as it speaks to their pride in their countries and a time of historical creativity and importance.

The Claddagh Cover of The Book of Kells

Celtic History Throughout nations with a strong Celtic history you will find beautiful examples of Celtic-inspired jewellery still being made (see picture of Celtic-patterned wedding bands made using Welsh gold). In Ireland particularly, Celtic patterns are everywhere – it is barely possible to cross a street in central Dublin on a busy Saturday without tripping over someone selling silver Celtic-design rings, pendants, and even t-shirts.

Though the Celtic people were dominant in Western Europe for about a thousand years, their descendants can now generally be found in Ireland, the Scottish Highlands, parts of Wales and small pockets of England.

As the Celts operated oral traditions, theirs is a particularly difficult history to document, but it is known that they were largely nomadic warriors, merchants and traders. Very little indeed is known about them except at points where they came into contact with other cultures, such as the Greek and Romans, about whom more documentary evidence exists.

Perhaps because of the scarcity of information about the Celts, their jewellery is considered especially magical and rooted in significance. The jewellery is made using simple, natural motifs, repeated patterns – often startlingly complex – and the ‘knotwork’ for which Celtic art is best known, as well as incorporating elements of mythical creatures and Celtic ‘gods’. The Celts fashioned their jewellery from bronze, silver and gold, between 200BC and 500AD as these precious metals were discovered.

By far the best known piece of Irish jewellery is the Claddagh ring (fáinne Chladaigh), which is a finger ring depicting a heart being held by two hands on either side of it. Often, but not always, the heart is topped by a crown. According to tradition, the ring can be worn both as a sign of friendship and of romance, often being used as a wedding ring.

The simple ‘clasped’ heart design is meant to embody love, loyalty and true friendship, which are symbolised by each of the elements of the ring: the heart demonstrating love, the hands showing friendship and the crown included for loyalty.

The ring actually has its origins in a place called Claddagh, a former fishing village near Galway where the ring was first made.

Claddagh was one of the oldest settled fishing villages in Ireland, its existence having been recorded since the arrival of Christianity in the country in the 5th Century. It is thought that the ring was first designed and made here in the 17th Century, although the roots of this jewellery custom go significantly further back. The Claddagh was almost certainly based on a similar tradition dating from the late Roman period – that of the giving of Fede rings.

Claddagh ring shop sign

The Voice of the Industry 45

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| Antique Jewellery The name Fede comes from the Italian mani in fede, meaning ‘hands joined in faith/loyalty’. These rings were very similar to the later Claddagh ring, not only in symbolic purpose but in design; the fede ring was also cast in the form of two clasped hands, often also with a crown on top. During Roman times, the clasping of hands was a symbol of pledging marital vows – or plighting your troth – and were used frequently as love tokens and marriage rings throughout medieval and Renaissance Europe.

Claddagh itself operated as part of the busy fish trade right through the nineteenth century until the 1930s, when the village was apparently pulled down and replaced by new housing. The area still celebrates its role in the creation of the Claddagh tradition, however; Galway jeweller Thomas Dillon, which lays claim to being the original makers of the Claddagh Ring and also the oldest

is the way in which its uses are quite vague: it’s rare to find a piece of traditional piece of jewellery that can be worn as a sign of being great mates with someone as well as one that shows your married status. Perhaps because of this vagueness, a sort of wearers' ‘code’ has built up around the Claddagh ring, with the position and style of wear apparently carrying specific meaning. According to this unwritten code, when the ring is worn on the right ring finger with the heart pointing to the fingertip, the wearer is free and single, whereas if it is worn on the same finger with the ring turned the other way, the wearer is declaring themselves romantically involved. If it is worn on

the wedding finger, the ring can be taken as being a wedding or engagement band.

How accurate these rules are, and how reliable the code, is debatable. Many a heated beer garden debate has been held about how the Claddagh is ‘supposed’ to be worn – like many ‘rules’ of tradition, these appear to be subject to interpretation. As Claddagh ring historian Sean McMahon explains in his Story of the Claddagh Ring, there is surprisingly little that has been written about this highly symbolic piece of jewellery, and much of the folklore that we now associate with it was added on comparatively recently, with no I ‘slow growth from antiquity’.

Whittaker’s World Nil desperandum…

Men’s Claddagh ring from celtic-irish-jewelry.com

jewellers in Ireland, even operates a small Claddagh Ring Museum which tells the full story of the Claddagh tradition.

The giving of the Claddagh ring was only a marginal custom throughout the 18th Century and early 19th Century, becoming particularly popular in the mid-19th Century when Galway jewellers began marketing their version of the love token outside the local area. Its popularity spiked after 1849, when Queen Victoria was presented with a Claddagh Ring, and grew still further during the 20th Century by which time Claddagh rings could be bought all over the world.

Today the Claddagh ring carries, arguably, more significance than a simple wedding or engagement band. As well as a sign of affection between individuals, it has come to mean ‘Irishness’ in general, and is often worn to denote pride in a person’s Irish heritage – so much so, that the Claddagh is a popular tattoo design of choice among Irish people, alongside the evergreen four leaf clover.

What’s quite interesting about the Claddagh ring, as far as symbolic jewellery is concerned,

46 The Jeweller April 2011

On the day that government figures show that unemployment has risen again, Japan’s national bank has poured trillions of yen into their financial system to try to stave off monetary disaster as well as cope with natural and nuclear catastrophes, and the Libyan people continue to be terrorised by a despotic ruler, you might be forgiven for thinking all is not well in the world.

Yesterday I joined a throng of experts (in my case self-appointed) to assist in the vetting at the Antiques Fair for Everyone at the NEC – a fair with the most amazing cross selection of jewellery, paintings, clocks and watches, furniture and many other specialist items.

The pre-opening day is always one of tension as exhibitors get their stands and stock ready for a four day exhibition which will have cost thousands of pounds and they wonder if this investment will pay off. The general feeling was one of quiet confidence – they have (generally!) excellent and varied stock, they are experts in their chosen specialism and above all they have enthusiasm for their jobs.

The same seems to apply to the retail trade – while most wouldn’t want to admit that they are ‘doing well’ there is an acceptance that things ‘could be worse’. There is, perhaps, a recognition that we all have to work harder than a few years ago, but generally the feedback is that there are customers out there for nice quality, sensibly priced items which are sold to them by staff who have knowledge and a passion for their jobs.

Despite all the bad signs life goes on! It’s just different. Perhaps we should, as a nation, try to recognise more of the ’positives’ rather than the ‘negatives’. We have a lot to celebrate about the jewellery trade in the UK and I am sure that the more adaptable members of this great trade will still be here in ten years’ time wondering what all the ‘despair’ was about!

Stephen Whittaker is Managing Director at Fellows, Auctioneers and Valuers, based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. Tel: 0121 212 2131 or email: stephen@fellows.co.uk.

Fellows (Est. 1876)

Forthcoming Auctions

• Secondhand Jewellery & Watches – Thursday 7th April, Thursday 12th & 26th May • Antique & Modern Jewellery – Thursday 14th April • Wrist & Pocket Watches – Monday 18th April A catalogue is available at www.fellows.co.uk or by post.

Online bidding is available at www.the-saleroom.com/fellows For further information please call Heather Bailey on 0121 212 2131.

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The Voice of the Industry 47

| Insurance Matters

Robbery survival tips Following last month’s issue which outlined the necessary steps to take to ensure the fullest preparation for a robbery, Neil McFarlane, of leading jewellery insurance brokers T.H. March offers recommendations and top tips to use should a robbery occur at your premises.

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Put in bulky heavy stock such as silver and watches and low value jewellery if possible. It may satisfy the amateur Include pads and display cases if it helps fill the bag, but avoid high value pads and items unless instructed by the robber If you have a choice, select stock rather than customers’ goods. The former is usually easier to replace and does less damage to customer relationships Do not volunteer to put in extra stock or draw attention to high value displays

Remember details •

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• •

Types of raiders • •

Opportunist – new to this type of theft Professional – organised and sometimes ruthless • Unstable – unpredictable They are all dangerous: the opportunists may overreact because they are nervous; the professionals in order to achieve their objective, and the unstable are totally erratic and volatile.

Do not take risks •

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Avoid sudden movements and explain any overt actions you are about to make. An armed criminal can be unpredictable and/or ruthless Do not reach for pockets or handbags, or activate a hold-up alarm unless you are certain you can do so without being seen Do not ‘have a go’ – goods and cash can be replaced. Your safety

48 The Jeweller April 2011

•

and that of your colleagues and customers is paramount Do exactly as you are told

Do not become involved •

•

•

Avoid confrontational eye contact with the raider. Walk away from the immediate area, but only if there are barriers between you and the criminals If you are not directly involved keep away. Your intervention could make the raiders more nervous If you are out of sight, stay out of sight.

Dial 999 if you can without being overheard or overseen, and lock safes and any cupboards or drawers containing valuables

If ordered to fill a bag with stock •

Reduce the loss if you can, but remember that safety is more important

Make a mental note of the appearance of criminals, unless you are ordered to turn away, face the wall or lie on the floor. Height can often be judged by remembering where you are standing and noting a raider’s height against the background Even if the raider is masked, remember all you can about clothing, logos, shoes, jewellery, tattoos, accent and mannerisms Many raiders have their own peculiar methods during a robbery; study of the method may help the police identify the criminals Make a mental note of anything touched or left by raiders Note any accomplices outside or in a getaway vehicle

Opportunists may overreact because they are nervous, professionals in order to achieve their objective, and the unstable are totally erratic and volatile.

•

Note the direction of escape and make, model, colour and registration number of the getaway vehicle

Family owned insurance brokers T.H. March & Co Limited has been serving the jewellery industry since 1887. With offices around the UK, the company offers a wide range of insurance products including schemes for the customers of jewellers.

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| Industry Analysis

Reflections in the rear-view mirror Michael Allchin, chief executive of The Birmingham Assay Office, follows the advice of legendary investor Warren Buffett by ‘looking in the rear-view mirror’ to understand the recent past in order to plan for the future. Here he highlights the key points of his analysis.

he rising price of precious metals is old news, but with prices forecast to rise still further in 2011 it is still the most significant influence on the UK fine jewellery market.

The spiralling gold price and tight economic conditions have spawned a very public gold rush and in 2009, 59.4 tonnes of fine gold were scrapped in the UK, compared with 4.5 tonnes in 2005. By contrast only 32 tonnes were fabricated into new jewellery, against 60 tonnes in 2005. Figures for 2010 are still awaited but anecdotally scrap redemption appears to have peaked in the UK – although there are still large volumes coming through.

Gold jewellery is not a regular purchase and while shoppers become accustomed to the daily creeping inflation for food and fuel, the sudden huge increase in that special gift is a shock. As a result, hallmarking volumes for lightweight 9ct gold have collapsed from 23.7 million in 2001 to 4.2 million in 2010. Those lost customers may now be buying branded fashion jewellery, or lightweight silver, under the 7.78 gram hallmarking exemption weight, but they are not buying hallmarked silver as the volumes remain relatively steady at around 8 million.

Overall hallmarking volumes have dropped from 35 million in 2003 to less than 15 million in 2010, presenting a tough challenge for assay offices who all charge per unit.

But for retailers the picture is very different. Taking the weight of products processed by the UK assay offices and extrapolating the value of fine gold at the average market price for each year, an interesting pattern emerges. As the following chart

T

50 The Jeweller April 2011

shows, in value terms 2010 was a record high year for gold in the UK. The steadily growing importance of 18ct, (shown in gold) both in real terms and as a percentage of value, confirms that while significantly less articles are being purchased, 18ct has a strong future.

That is not to suggest that 18ct is an easy sell in 2011. Take an identical wedding ring made from the four white metals – platinum, palladium, white gold and silver. There is inevitably a difference in weight, due to the varying density of the metals. There is a big price differential too, but the significant feature is the absolute increase in price in the past ten years, as shown below. Small wonder that retailers are investing more and more in training, to equip their staff with the knowledge and confidence to continue to sell up to their customers.

Alongside a shifting product profile, customers are rapidly changing their shopping

habits. The importance of a good website is now accepted commercial practice but technology continues to move on. Shopping via mobile phones – ‘m commerce’ – is the latest driver. The major high street retailers are rapidly developing sophisticated apps so that their customers can access information and place orders wherever they are in the world. In the 18 weeks to 1st January 2011 Argos received one million orders via its app. Those who prefer to physically shop the high street are regularly using websites and apps to research, prepare and plan their retail therapy.

Revealing statistics tracking physical foot fall versus online visits clearly demonstrate this. As the snow fell in early December, decimating trips to bricks and mortar retailers, online visits were equally impacted. This was partly due to doubt that online purchases would arrive but also because there was less reason to visit the website as the stores were physically inaccessible. Only 3.2 per cent of visitors to a high street retailer’s website buy online. An unquantifiable remainder compare products and prices, and then visit the store while some are ‘just browsing’.

Meanwhile those potential customers are also engaging with commercial sites on Facebook and Twitter, with brands begging to be ‘liked’. Such campaigns are cleverly pitched, neatly infiltrating the consumer’s social life and personal time and driving loyalty and sales. Tesco clothing are crediting a Facebook campaign with £1.5 million of direct clothing sales.

Taking all that into consideration the old retail priorities still hold true. Companies such as New Look whose Christmas sales finished nine per cent down, despite attracting a high proportion of internet visits pre Christmas, and the continuing success of Primark, who resolutely do not have on-line store, demonstrates that understanding your customer and delivering the right product at the right price is still a basic necessity.

Perhaps the old adage is true – the more things change the more they stay the same – but understanding and preparing for those changes is vital. Remember Warren Buffet’s Noah’s rule: “Predicting rain doesn’t count, building arks does”. Pass me that plank…

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

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Asking the right questions The NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers has recently updated the Taking-in Procedure Form it recommends to all valuers. n the past, particularly when dealing with consumer disputes, the Institute has found that many of the problems brought to its attention might have been avoided if the right questions had been asked when the goods were taken in. For instance: had the item been valued before? When was it purchased? Was the item purchased secondhand? Was it bought from the internet or a shopping channel? Was it purchased abroad?

The form also asks if the customer has any previous documentation such as diamond reports, old valuations, receipts, Customs declaration, etc which will assist the valuer.

A new addition to the form also asks for details relating to the customer’s insurance policy, i.e. is it a ‘new for old’ policy?

I

The Institute has had experience of the public not openly declaring all material facts prior to valuations being carried out. It is now current practice to consider valuations null and void when all pertinent information is not forthcoming at the outset. Customers should also be aware that insurance companies also require to be informed of any material facts in order to avoid their insurance being invalidated.

However, it is important that the member of staff who takes the goods in is made aware of how vital it is to fill the form in correctly. We strongly recommend that all staff are shown how to complete it properly and taught how to explain to customers its purpose in order to enhance their understanding of the process

and your reputation for attention to detail.

Making note of the condition/damage of items prevents the customer from accusing you of chipping a stone, denting a bangle, etc when they collect the goods.

Use of a Taking-in Procedure Form of any kind is not compulsory but it is highly recommended by both the Institute and the Association. The use of such a form shows the customer that you are a professional and do not take on lightly the valuation of their jewellery. The disclaimer at the end also provides protection for the valuer; it prevents the difficult or embarrassing situation when a customer later brings to the valuer’s attention

It is now current practice to consider valuations null and void when all pertinent information is not forthcoming at the outset. vital information which could have affected the value placed on an item.

The form now comes in two formats – portrait or landscape – and each of the two pages includes explanatory notes and limiting conditions on the back. IRVs can download the forms from the IRVs’ area on the IRV website at www.jewelleryvaluers.org; non IRVs are welcome to contact Sandra Page via email at irv@jewellers-online.org for the documents.

Please note, when monitoring IRVs, the Institute requests a sample of their valuation work including their working notes and documents given to the customers. It will also ask for a copy of any taking-in procedure form used: it really is an important document.

The Voice of the Industry 51

L ATE ST

N E W S

F R O M

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E D U C ATI O N

D E PA RTM E NT

Historic night for NAG graduates The National Association of Goldsmiths once again had the great privilege to reward students for their hard work, commitment and knowledge at the annual Presentation of Awards, held at the Goldsmiths’ Hall, on the evening of Thursday 10th March.

There was no media frenzy, nor any emotional speeches – as witnessed at the BAFTAs, Golden Globes and Oscars – but students, friends, families and colleagues gave just as much glamour as the celebs. The prestigious NAG Awards certainly trumped any Hollywood event in the magnificent Livery Hall; followed by celebratory drinks in the ornate Drawing Room. he evening began with an address from Chairman of the Education Committee, Eleanor Pyke, who spoke briefly of the history of the NAG’s enduring relationship with Goldsmiths’ Hall describing the venue as an “important setting for the education department”. Pyke gave formal introductions for the Vice Chairman Pravin Pattni; Deputy Chairman Frank Woods; current Chairman Nicholas Major; and NAG President Patrick Fuller, while also praising “the incredible hard work of the students” and giving “a massive thanks to the education department and a round of applause for tutors, to recognise all their hard work”. These sentiments were echoed, by Major, who followed by introducing Patrick Fuller to present the awards.

Speaking with eloquence and passion, Fuller wanted to express how “important and exciting it is to be here celebrating the achievements” of our students, who he described as the “new ambassadors for the next generation of the industry”. Fuller spoke of a “buzz”: the buzz of the evening, of seeing

T

52 The Jeweller April 2011

everyone succeed, and also the buzz of making a sale, comparing the selling of sentimental items of jewellery to “selling memories”. He expressed how “having the trust of a client is essential, when selling highly sentimental pieces of jewellery, and you can ensure that trust by the work you’ve done to reach where you are today”.

One-by-one students from as far afield as the North of Scotland and Ireland came to the stage to collect their diplomas. The Awards included Management, Gemmology and Valuations as well as the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. Once again, the Greenough Trophy was awarded to the candidate with the overall highest marks in the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (JET 2) and the Gemstone Award, went to the highest achiever in the Professional

Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma examination.

JET 1 students were also praised for their outstanding projects, when Chris Garland of Bransom Retail Systems came to the stage to congratulate the winners of the Bransom JET 1 Project Award, which The Jeweller has been following over the past eight months.

As the main presentation came to a close, students and their guests were invited into the beautiful Drawing Room, for a celebratory drink. As one student described the event “I’ve travelled a little way to get here, but it was really worth it. The venue is amazing, and it’s really great to meet everyone for a final celebration”. And while store bosses bit their tongues, graduates piled out into the night to carry on with their very well deserved celebrations.

From all the staff at the education department, we’d again like to congratulate all our students on their successes and wish them luck in the future. If you are a recent graduate and wish to find out about our alumni services, if you have any questions post-graduation or you’re already chomping at the bit to get on with some more training, please keep in touch. We look forward to hearing from you.

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BQW 136 Burnt Oak Broadway, Edgware, Middlesex HA8 0BB T: 020 8731 2563 info@bqwatches.com

The Voice of the Industry 53

11 4th _ 7th SEPTEMBER EARLS COURT LONDON

Be dazzled • Be inspired • Be at IJL

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IJL is your opportunity to meet and network with over 9,000 jewellery focused buyers, 75% of which influence or have direct purchasing power.

Find out more top reasons to exhibit at IJL by visiting www.jewellerylondon.com/thejeweller

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Education + Training |

Trophy triumph for top students irst presented in 1946, the prestigious Greenough Trophy was once again awarded to the student who received the highest overall marks in the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma programme. After totting up all the marks, the award was presented to Abigail Stradling of Allum & Sidaway in Sailsbury – who received a distinction grade on the programme, and trumped her fellow students on the outstanding marks she achieved.

“I can’t really think straight at the moment, but I’m so pleased”, she said of her award. “It’s been a great night, and after winning this the celebrations will definitely continue. I’m just glad I don’t have work in the morning!”

When we caught up with Abigail later, we asked her what it really meant to win the award: “I’m surprised, pleased and proud.

It really was exciting to win; I couldn’t have been happier. I knew about the trophy from 2006 when I joined the trade, and I know how much of a prestigious prize it is to receive,” she says.

“I’ve been working with Allum & Sidaway, who put me up for the course under their

staff training policy. I’d already obtained a degree as a silversmith when I joined, so I thought I had a pretty good knowledge.

However, in taking the course, I found a number of gaps in my knowledge, and theories that aid the practicalities, that hadn’t been covered in my original training.

ach year, the NAG awards the top scoring Professional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma student with the Gemstone Award. This year’s award was won by Sarah Medhurst, of John Medhurst’s in Bedford, for her impressive results in the 2010 examinations.

“I’m absolutely shocked to have won. It’s a real surprise, but I’m so pleased,” Sarah told us after the presentation. She has been working in the family owned business for the past few years – and through working there has had a chance to take on the training which is one of many steps towards her ambitions of becoming a valuer.

“It’s given us all here a great boost,” she added. “A colleague is taking the JET 2 course through the company and this shows how their hard work can be recognised. My father has been in the trade for forty years, but never had the chance to do any professional training; he learned everything on the job.

However, he continues to encourage and support all the staff to gain the professional qualifications that will help us further our

careers and to assist in the day-to-day running of the showroom. The NAG training has given me the confidence to know how to serve customers best. It also aids in bringing new and better practices into sales, and customer care. The knowledge we learn on the course can be transferred to other workers when working on certain issues or in-store processes.”

F

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Abigail Stradling

Abigail Stradling with Patrick Fuller, NAG President

Sarah Medhurst Sarah Medhurst with NAG Chairman Nicholas Major and Patrick Fuller

Every assignment is set to test skills and knowledge. The information you gain, gives you real confidence in being a better sales person. I’m really grateful for Allum & Sidaway for putting me up for the course, and I can say, knowing what the course is like, that I would’ve taken it regardless.”

For the benefit of future JET 2 students, The Jeweller asked how Abigail had obtained such high grades. “I had the great advantage of having a ‘study buddy’,” she explains. “A colleague in a nearby Allum & Sidaway branch was taking the same course. We used to set each other exam questions, and help each other on issues or problems we were having with the material.

The two of us also attended a workshop hosted by Anne Bray, in Southampton. Anne went through some helpful practice papers and clarified some of the points we were unsure on. It was a really great help to our revision process. I would also like to say a huge thank you to everyone at Allum & Sidaway, and my tutor, Anne Bray for all their support,” she adds.

Sarah’s winning exam technique can be put simply down to hard work. “With the Gemstone Diploma you’re learning a lot of detailed facts, so you need to be constantly going over everything,’ she explained.

“Sometimes I’d take time away from the course material to read some of the extensive reading list provided by the NAG. It was a good study break, and allowed me to take in other relevant aspects that maybe I’d overlooked. The tutorials also really helped with this and Anthony Sibley, the tutor, gave me real confidence to be able to do the exam. I was nervous about it, and you never really know how you’ve done. So when I received my results I was over the moon.

“The training gives you more confidence in your own knowledge, and can fill in any gaps,” she added. I definitely recommend the NAG’s training to anyone looking to move up in the industry. For me, this is just the end of one period of study, as I’m currently taking the Management Diploma, and hope in the future to train in valuation.

The Voice of the Industry 55

| Education + Training

NAG President, Patrick Fuller presented the awards

Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (P.J. Dip) – Pass with Distinction Surname

Forename(s)

Town

Company

Greenough Trophy winner Stradling Abigail

Salisbury

Allum & Sidaway

Allen

Kelly Louise

Bloxwich

Signet

Ashton

Pamela Jane

Oldham

Mays Pawnbrokers & Jewellers

Boothroyd

Rachael Catherine

Wells

Studley’s

Bord

Gabriella

London

Michael Rose

Cole

Tracey

Blandford

Allum & Sidaway

Edwards

Emma

Stoke-on-Trent

New Market

Fuller

Natalie Ann

Bournemouth

Geo. A Payne

Gittings

Chloe Lucy Violet

Burntwood

Salloways

Lowis

Darren Anthony

Rotherham

Smith Brothers

McInerney

Jane

Dublin, Ireland

–

Moloney

Tamzin

Bath

E P Mallory

Motsonelidze

Nina

Dublin, Ireland

Weir & Sons

Noakes

Sally Anne

Bakewell

Green & Benz

Robinson

Nicola Dawn

Perranporth

Alan Johns

Ryder

Sally

Leeds

Beaverbrooks

Sinclair

Thomas James

Northampton

Michael Jones

Steed

Georgina

Nottingham

Chisholm Hunter

Street

Emma Kathryn

Ipswich

Riley & Riley

Willis

Pauline Ann

Carrickfergus

John H Lunn

Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (P.J. Dip) – Pass: Grade A Surname

Forename(s)

Town

Company

Atwell

Marina Denise

Bicester

Biagio

Aung Than

Hay Mar

London

Pravins

Bishop

Jennifer Leigh

Bedford

Baker Bros.

Brockway

Chantelle Helene

Poole

Mappin & Webb

Buck

Lauren Natasha

Stoke-on-Trent

F A Buck

Burgess

Victoria Louise

Norwich

Fraser Hart

Cassey

Emma

March

–

56 The Jeweller April 2011

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For more information contact us; 01403 259551 www.anagramsystems.co.uk

Tel: 07884 002312 www.bellechique.info

The Voice of the Industry 57

| Education + Training Education Chairman, Eleanor Pyke, makes her address

Nadine Woods and guests

Clarke

Christopher Robert

Congleton

Henry D Johnstone

Collings

Anna Erika

Aberdeen

R D Finnie

Cormack

Helen

Inverness

Colin Campbell

Croft

Stacey

Accrington

Lyons & Mountford

Farren

Lisa Evelyn Marie

Birmingham

Harvey & Thompson

Fulford

Amy Rose

Ludlow

David Benson

Goma Kouka

Rosemichelle

London

Harvey & Thompson

Knights

Andrea

Stanley

Goldsmiths

Koval

Natasha Grace

Ipswich

Riley & Riley

Layton

Janina Sarah

London

Marmalade

Lockett

Kerry Danielle

Coventry

Francis & Gaye

Macgregor

Amanda

Reading

Douglas Jacobs

Macleod

Sarah

Inverness

Colin Campbell

McMichael

Jocelyn Isobel

Huntingdon

Cellini Limited

Morgan

Gemma Rose

Fairford

Goldsmiths

Nacel-Matwiejczyk

Agnes

Oxford

Albemarle & Bond

Norman

Katherine Louise

Bath

E P Mallory

Pearson

Mandy Jane

York

Fraser Hart

Redfern

Angela Evelyn

Belfast

John H Lunn

Rippin

Helen Mary

Louth

-

Scarborough

Suzanne

March

-

Sheldon

Natalie Rachel

Chester

Waltons

Smith

Danielle

Chichester

Smith & Ralier

Smith

Lucinda McArthur

High Wycombe

Beaverbrooks

West

Kerry-Elizabeth

Gateshead

Goldsmiths

Wickers

Sophie

Beckenham

Swag

Williams

Mellissa Mandy

Porthcawl

RMA Williams

Wirdnam

Natalie Jane

Petersfield

Picketts & Pursers

Wyer

William Albert

Wilmslow

Mark Worthington

Professional Jewellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Diploma (P.J. Dip) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pass: Grade B Surname

Forename(s)

Town

Company

Albuery

Michelle

Worthing

A R Whibley

Anderson

Gayle

Dublin, Ireland

Pearl Perfect

Beaver

Kelly

Manchester

Albemarle & Bond

Bigger

Gavin

Belfast

John H Lunn

Bowles

Fiona Jane

Romsey

Parkhouse

Buckley

Claire Ellen

Felixstowe

Hills

Burke

Sharon Diane

Norwich

Fraser Hart

Carney

Emma

Reading

F Hinds

Carruthers

Therese

Dunstable

Morgan Huzzey

Clegg

Hannah Jennifer

Castlecaulfield

John H Lunn

58 The Jeweller April 2011

Education + Training | Collinson

Rachel

Wakefield

Beaverbrooks

Correya

Joanna Laura

Taunton

Carol Anne

Crank

Rachael Louise

Dukinfield

Fraser Hart

Crawford

Anne Marie

Bangor

Goldsmiths

Duncan

Melanie

Newtownabbey

Goldsmiths

Dunn

Victoria Georgina

Milton Keynes

Fraser Hart

Dunwell

Charlotte Louise

Beckenham

S Warrender

Edwards

Holly Megan

Watford

Beaverbrooks

Fitch

Lisa

Wootton

Baker Bros.

Fortune

Emma

Oxford

Reginald Davis

Giles-Morrison

Rachel

Lisburn

John H Lunn

Glover

Michelle

Radcliffe

Albemarle & Bond

Glue

Ingrid

Westbourne

Timothy Roe

Gourley

Claire

Belfast

McNeillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Hallas

Stevie-Marie

Wakefield

Beaverbrooks

Hampshire

Karen

Cranleigh

Amore

Heath

Brett

Lincoln

James Usher

Hewitt

Charlotte

Berkhamsted

Bailey & Sons

Hodalski

Christina Mary

Irvine

Harvey & Thompson

Humphreys

Laura Jane

Rochdale

Peter Jackson

Hurst

Samantha Louise

Wigan

G S Milton

Jaggard

Sarah Louise

Colchester

Farrens

Johnson

Janice

Doncaster

Cheque & Pawn

Keenan

Maeve Juliette Monica

Dublin, Ireland

Rockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of Stillorgan

Kirk

Zoe

Melton Mowbray

Pearce

Kumari-Doyle

Isaac

Thurles, Ireland

Kumari-Doyle Jewellers

Laws

Joanne Amanda

Driffield

Hugh Rice

JET 1 Project Award winners (left to right): Jana Novakova, Sarah Berkerey, Emily Roy and Christine Harnett, with Michael Hoare (left) and Chris Garland of Bransom (centre)

The Voice of the Industry 59

| Education + Training

The tutors: Anthony Sibley, Mark Houghton, Mary Garland, Michelle McCormick, Anne Bray and Eddie Stanley

Emma Street and Natasha Koval with guests

Leah

Hannah Charlotte

Bedford

Lemmon

Charlotte Johanna

Waterlooville

Fraser Hart Picketts & Pursers

Luter

Lucy Georgina

Taunton

Carol Anne

Maher

Curtis James

Bury

Harvey & Thompson

Marques

Silvia Regina Andrade

St Helier, Jersey

Rivoli

McGee

Margaret

Dublin, Ireland

–

McRae

Darcie

Falkirk

Harvey & Thompson

Metcalfe

Lisa

York

Fraser Hart

Michie

Victoria Jayne

Lancaster

Banks Lyon

Norwood

Mark

Chester

S S Milton

O’Connell

Angela Karen

Birmingham

–

O’Neill

Anya

Bournemouth

Parkhouse

Pierce

Jennifer

Blessington, Ireland

B J Fitzpatrick

Pouton

Annette

Whitley Bay

Albemarle & Bond

Pullen

Frances

Bath

LMG

Robinson

Kristin Edith

Accrington

Harvey & Thompson

Robson

Lisa Mary

York

Beaverbrooks

Rose

Stephanie

Cowden

William Major

Rowson

Caitlin Elizabeth

Pevensey

W Bruford

Russell

Lynne

Chigwell

Fish Bros.

Shapley

Sian

Aberdare

A Lea

Sheppard-McKay

Tracey Margaret

Swindon

Beaverbrooks

Simpson

Stewart Robert

Southampton

Parkhouse

Sutcliffe

Charlotte Anne

Norwich

Bradley Hatch

Talbot

Jodie Lee

Dewsbury

Albemarle & Bond

Teager

Hazel

Irvine

Harvey & Thompson

Townsend

Jennifer Claire

Tadcaster

Beaverbrooks

Walmsley

Helena Louise

Leicester

Aurum

Ward

Stacey Louise

Manchester

Mays Pawnbrokers & Jewellers

Watson

Karriann

Hartlepool

Albemarle & Bond

Wesolowski

Patricia Susana Melim

St Helier, Jersey

E J Gallichan

West

Mark James

East Grinstead

William Major

Widd

Celeste Storm

Southampton

Parkhouse

Williams

Alice Emma

Birmingham

R J Yeo

Woods

Nadine

Oxford

Albemarle & Bond

Wright

Fiona Elizabeth

Oldham

Herbert Brown

Wright

Gemma Leigh

Chislehurst

Hop’s Jewellers

60 The Jeweller April 2011

Education + Training | Professional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma (P.J. Gem. Dip) – Pass with Distinction Surname

Forename(s)

Town

Company

The Gemstone Award winner Medhurst Sarah Anne

Bedford

John Medhurst

Cuthbert

Sarah Krauss

Petersfield

Picketts & Pursers

Van Uden

Hetty

Halesworth

The Amber Shop

Professional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma (P.J. Gem. Dip) – Pass: Grade A Surname

Forename(s)

Town

Company

Bowles

Catherine Louise

Cheltenham

–

Cousins

Julian

Faversham

T & B Cousins

Jarvis

Demelza Holly

Plymouth

Fraser Hart

Kitching

Laura Jayne

Northampton

Michael Jones

O’Reilly

Nicola Jayne

Birmingham

Signet

Sawyer

Nicola Hester

Bristol

E P Mallory

Winski

Jacqueline Ann

Dunfermline

A J Winski

Professional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma (P.J. Gem. Dip) – Pass: Grade B Surname

Forename(s)

Town

Company

Braggins

Clare Louise

Banbury

Michael Jones

Davis

Russell Dominic

Hounslow

Bernstones

Donnelly

James Anthony

Coulsdon

S Warrender

Durrant

Gemma Louise

Felixstowe

Hills

Grant

Leigh Georgina

Rainham

Harvey & Thompson

Green

Gillian

Cheltenham

Promenade Antiques

Sally Ryder and Tracey Sheppard-McKay with guests

Christopher Clarke

The Voice of the Industry 61

| Education + Training

Gemma Durrant

Nunes

Sarah Jaggard and guests

Carla Patricia Dos Reis

St. Helier, Jersey

Rivoli

Phillips

Zoe

Nottingham

Onyx Goldsmiths

Turner

Neil David

Herne Bay

A Simmonds

Wilkins

Sarah

Finmere

Lumbers

Professional Jewellers’ Management Diploma (P.J. Man. Dip) – Pass Surname

Forename(s)

Town

Company

Debnarova

Martina

London

Pravins

Ellis

Laura Claire

Dronfield

Green & Benz

Harrington

Catherine Mary

Blackburn

Peter Jackson

Laing

Richard W N

Edinburgh

Laing

Marsden

Karen Helen

Cheshire

S S Milton

McLaughlin

George

Glasgow

Goldsmiths

Porter

Rex

Hook

A W Porter

Remmert

Daniel

Peterborough

Mallards

Scull

Owen Peter

Cardiff

Paul Gentile

Sproat

Susan Angela

Derby

Eatons

Tanser

Joanne Clare

Chesterfield

Green & Benz

White

Laura

Dorchester

Allum & Sidaway

Wright

Elizabeth Marie

Southwold

The Amber Shop

Professional Jewellers’ Valuation Diploma (P.J. Val. Dip) – Pass Surname

Forename(s)

Town

Company

Atkins

Marie Anna

Flitwick

Beverley Hills

Dupuy

David John

Dublin, Ireland

–

Lamm

Trine Susanne

Belgium

–

Lee

Sharon

Norwich

Winsor Bishop

McAllister

Elaine Mary

Basingstoke

The Jewel Box

Ward

Thomas Paul

Harlow

Rok’s Mfg Jewellers

Willmott

Karra Jane

Croydon

S Warrender

62 The Jeweller April 2011

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APPOINTMENTS Angelo Smith Manager required We are a very traditional family retail jeweller in a West Suffolk market town, established 1876.

We are seeking a full-time manager to work alongside the partners.

•

The successful applicant will have a proven track record within the jewellery profession, calling on all their experience to offer the highest standard of customer service, preferably with experience within the independant environment.

•

The generous salary is commensurate with experience and ability.

•

Moving/relocation/travelling costs will be considered for the right applicant.

RECRUITMENT Are you looking to recruit staff for retail, manufacturing, design, sales, jobbing, management, admin and finance?

Advertise your jewellery and watch vacancies in The Jeweller magazine Appointments section and on the Jeweller Recruitment online site (www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk) simultaneously at very competitive rates.

Call Ian Francis on tel: 020 7833 5500 or email him at: ian@cube-uk.com to book your recruitment advertising in The Jeweller magazine.

Please write in your own handwriting with CV to: Mr. J.C. Hume, Angelo Smith & Son, 4 North Street, Sudbury, Suffolk CO10 1RB

www.jewelleryjobs.com A selection of our current vacancies…

Retail

General

• Leading Bond Street jewellers require top class sales people with good and active client lists; languages an advantage – excellent salaries and benefits

• High end watch brand requires a watch brand manager based in the South East, must have experience at a senior level and used to dealing with key account clients and managing a small team.

Dynamic and enthusiastic, French speaking an advantage

• Chinese and Arabic speaking sales people required in Bond Street and Knightsbridge • Salesperson for leading jewellers – West London • Manager for leading jeweller in Surrey required • High end diamond sales people and management required in the West End of London • Gallery Manager wanted for a leading jeweller in Kent, previous experience required in high end jewellery and/or watches • Manager wanted for prestigious new boutique opening in Mayfair.

Must have West End experience and have an existing client base with good watch and fine jewellery experience. Must be proactive and able to build and maintain client relationships • Sales people and Assistant Managers/Manager Designates required throughout the country, particularly Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool, Chester, Birmingham, Glasgow, Edinburgh and the South East

• Customer Service Coordinators, Sales Administrators and After Sales Service Managers are currently being sought in London.

• Luxury watch brand seeking a Marketing Manager capable of handling, Marketing, Media planning and buying, PR and events.

French speaking an advantage but not essential • Essex Company needs an experienced setter; Yorkshire company needs a very experienced mounter • As always, qualified watchmakers, ideally Rolex-trained, required throughout the country

All enquiries treated in total confidence. For more information on national opportunities visit our website.

Contact Katie or Grant on tel: 01756 753 or e-mail: jobs@jackson-maine.com

JACKSON MAINE

The Recruitment Specialists to the Jewellery & Watch Industries

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For more details visit www.golf-lasella.co.uk or call Toni Steele 07534 892124

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D I S P L AY C A B I N E T Jewellery Manufacturers

Pearls

Pearls

Raw Pearls Limited Importers, manufacturers and suppliers of cultured pearls and pearl jewellery

Over 30 years specialising in pearls E: jpr@rawpearls.com T: 01460 281 496 W: www.rawpearls.com

Pearl Restringing

AGARS

Platinum

Precious Stones, Beads and Pearls

Repair Services

Shopfitting

(est. 1946)

• The complete restringing service

to the trade for over 60 years.

• Experience, quality and service

at reasonable prices.

• Full insurance. All urgent repairs by return.

Call David or Stephen at Agars Ltd Port Hall Mews, Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5PB Tel/fax: 01273 540330 Email: steveagar@hotmail.com

Repairs

Member of the British Jewellers’ Association

bqw rolex specialist

Is your Rolex watch bracelet stretched and worn?

At BQ Watches we can make it look brand NEW

We now specialise in the repair and refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Call now for a FREE Quotation

020 8731 2563

www.bqwatches.com Signage

Titanium Jewellery

Watch Distributors

| Regular

The

Last Word The subject of this month's Last Word inquisition is Kyron Keogh, co-owner of Glasgow-based fashion-led jewellers ROX. Personal Profile Having been a graduate surveyor and then a management consultant for a blue chip company, Kyron co-founded a software company which was sold in the dotcom boom. In 2002 he co-founded ROX with his business partner and long-time friend Grant Mitchell. Three more stores followed the initial Argyll Arcade shop, which recently underwent a £1million expansion to quadruple it in size. The award-winning business, which carries fine diamond jewellery as well as designer brands, employs 80 staff and is on course to turn over £9m this year.

How do you describe your personal style?

Up until not long ago, you would’ve rarely see me in anything other than suits. I’m quite laid back now – tailored jacket, crisp shirt and jeans. I am a massive fan of Nudie jeans.

What jewellery do you wear?

I wear a classic platinum wedding band and new Rolex GMT Master II. I love to travel and this watch allows me to read two different time zones simultaneously.

Where is your favourite holiday destination and why?

Mallorca is like a home away from home for me. I’ve been visiting every summer since I was born and, oddly, it’s where I met my business partner Grant – we were only 12 at the time!

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others?

I’d like to think others would describe me as being honest, hard working and dependable… other words that could potentially come up though are party-loving, risk-taking and a perfectionist.

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over?

I’m lucky to have had a great and varied career. However, in 1997 after I had been living in Hong Kong I was offered a job in Australia… I sometimes think that I should have taken it but who knows – if I had, maybe I wouldn’t be where I am now.

If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry what would it be?

Without a doubt I’d eliminate counterfeiting – it’s a drain on the industry and something that we all need to take action on.

To what do you attribute your success?

I’m a perfectionist by nature and when I set my sights on something, I’m relentless in making it happen. Success doesn’t just happen overnight, it takes time, vision,

66 The Jeweller April 2011

passion and persistence. You also need to have courage of conviction – Grant and I have built up a great business because we aren’t scared to take risks.

Do you Tweet?

I don’t tweet myself but you will occasionally find me on Facebook. We do however use both Twitter and Facebook to great success for ROX – it’s a great way to engage with our customers and to increase brand awareness.

Tell us something not many people know about you…

I play the drums.

Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!)?

Hong Kong – it’s an amazing city – the street style is out of this world.

If you hadn’t gone into the jewellery business, what career would you have chosen?

I’d have either continued building my career as a management consultant… or I would have been a rock star!

What’s your current bedside reading?

I’m reading Keith Richard’s autobiography Life which was a Christmas present from my brother – what a life that man has had!

Quick fire (no deliberating) • Red or white wine? Red • Football or cricket? (team?)

Neither, rugby!

• Diamonds or coloured stones?

Diamonds • White or yellow metal? White • TV or radio? Radio • Bentley or Roller? Roller • Delegator or control freak? Control freak • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Stones

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