The Jeweller Magazine Dec 2012

Jeweller the

Nov/Dec 2012

With input from the British Jewellers’ Association

£7.50

The Voice of The Industry

The allure of gemstones • Exploring the gift market Latest trends in shop fitting and display

inspired by arctic beauty

W he n the p ure , co o l b e a ut y of t h e A rct ic i s b l e nd e d w i th the si m p l e e l e g a n ce of D a n is h d e s ig n , a n e w e ra d a w n s :

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as seen in:

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Jeweller

Contents & Contacts |

the

The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

N O V / D E C

12

Colour Supplement

Communiqué

4

Editor’s Letter

7

Industry News

8

NAG News

18

Member of the Month

20

IRV Review

22

Education & Training

28

BJA News

31

Simon Says

32

BJA Feature

34

The Jeweller Picks

40

Ethical Jeweller

43

Brand Profile: Bering

56

Insurance Matters

58

Feature: The Digital Conundrum

60

Opinion: Harriet Kelsall

78

Security

80

for your shop can make all the difference when

Antique Jewellery

84

competition gets hot.

Notebook

87

Display Cabinet

88

The Last Word

90

44

The allure of gemstones, of all varieties, colours and qualities is stronger now than ever. Belinda Morris treats herself to a closer look at the market.

Present & Correct

60

Are gift items – from silverware to clocks and pens – as popular as they ever were?

We take a look at this less talked-about sector.

When less is more

68

Mary Brittain discovers how an individual look

Retail Security Conference

80

Miles Hoare reports on a day of insightful talks and demonstrations aimed at helping jewellers

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

to stay safe.

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

The National Association of Goldsmiths

Cover Image In conjunction with Tresor Paris (UK) PLC 7 Greville Street, Hatton Garden London EC1 8PQ Tel: 020 3355 4030 Email: info@tresorparis.com www.tresorparis.com

78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk BJA Marketing & PR Manager: Lindsey Straughton lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7613 4445 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian@jewellers-online.org Publishing Enquiries/ Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Mary Brittain, Miles Hoare, Harriet Kelsall, Amy Oliver, Greg Valerio, Felix Velarde

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.

The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

As we approach the end of 2012, NAG CEO Michael Hoare welcomes the good economic news from the ONS, implores jewellers to stay safe over the festive period ahead and hints at exciting developments for 2013.

How was it for you?

As you read these notes you may be making your final approach to the Christmas season – adjusting the controls to ensure a soft landing and a profitable outcome. As I write the Office of National Statistics is revealing that the UK economy is emerging from recession – at least for the three months from July to September! Who knows whether the boost given by the Olympics and Paralympics will translate into a slow climb back to growth? Even if it does, we still have some way to go to repair the damage done by nine months of recession as we’re still below the levels of output achieved in 2008. So, economically it’s been a funny old year, but what of our members’ fortunes?

Twice a year for the last three years we have surveyed our members to test their business confidence. As I mentioned in October, this isn’t a survey that is subject to monstrous swings of the pendulum, but it does give us a useful indicator of the mood music. And I think it is fair to say that the mood is flat, with expectations of growth, demand, and increased profits bumping along the bottom of the graph. Compare that to the anonymous figures submitted by

4 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

the EDF groups and the picture is less uniform. Collectively the trend is solidly in positive figures, but averages tend to mask the positive and negative extremes; what is indisputable is that the winners are those who aren’t just lamenting the down turn in trade, but actually doing something about it.

Let’s hope that Christmas good cheer will help customers set aside their woes and get stuck into some serious spending!

Keep safe I don’t want to frighten you, but Christmas is also the time when the crooks come out to play. Later in this issue I’ve given a few statistics showing SaferGems’ results for the year so far, and I genuinely believe that we are beginning to get some traction. But there is still a long way to go before we can claim to have cracked crime. Compare our losses to those of what we used to consider the traditional robbery targets – almost twice as much as cash in transit for instance – and they stand as a stark reminder of how vulnerable we are.

Far be it from me to tell you how to do your job, but can I suggest that now might be a good time – getting staff involved – to run over your security procedures again

before the festivities are upon us! All the evidence suggests that no matter how sophisticated your procedures or physical security it all falls down if staff don’t comply either because they have been inadequately briefed, or because they don’t care, or because they are distracted. And as an extra thought, it is worth reminding staff with Facebook and other social media contacts to ‘think before they write’, as it is all too easy to compromise their own or your security with an innocent remark fuelled by Christmas good cheer.

A recent incident of violent robbers dressed in clown outfits, with comedy masks, t-shirts emblazoned with ‘Halloween Charity Fun Run’, and carrying a charity collecting bucket, are proof that criminals will stoop pretty low, and stop at nothing to get what they want. So please don’t be caught off guard this Christmas.

Gold standard When I read the results of the latest Business Confidence Survey I couldn’t help wondering if the ‘cash-for-gold’ bubble had developed a slow puncture; as about seventy per cent of the respondents said they were buying back less scrap gold this year than last. It would

Comment | be a pity if it had, as over-the-counter trade in precious metals has proved a useful addition to sales for many jewellers lately. Actually, given the vast amounts of gold jewellery in circulation and the price, I reckon there is still plenty of trade to be done. The important thing is that it’s legitimate and not laundering ill-gotten gains!

Back in the summer, and against a background of reckless metal thefts that damaged memorials, churches, and public works of art – not to mention brought many a rail journey to a shuddering halt – Surrey Police began to take an interest in the disposal of stolen gold.

We co-operated, keen to close a criminal loophole, and the result was a voluntary code of practice. Subsequent adoption by the Association of Chief Police Officers and the Trading Standards Institute has meant that other police forces have begun to take notice, with the Metropolitan Police and Hertfordshire constabulary but two of the forces now rolling out the code. Early teething problems that posed a problem for retailers have now been addressed too, which means added traction, and a level of protection for jewellers faced with bogus claims of ownership. The object of this exercise – to put the squeeze on criminals!

No rest until new year The last few weeks – since IJL in fact – have been extraordinarily busy for us all at Luke Street. Personally, I have been following a security thread starting with a national crime symposium in September; the London Jewellery Strategic Security Group; Banknote Watch; our regular police and SaferGems liaison meeting and culminating with our own Retail Security Conference at the Building Research Establishment in Watford, at which delegates appeared to enjoy the sight of glass being smashed, safes sawn in half, and spaces engulfed in smoke – so much so that this event will become a regular fixture in our timetable. You can watch a video of the event via our blog (http://nag-blog.org), but if this isn’t your cup of tea look out for our practical security seminars in the new year! My colleagues, meanwhile, have been concentrating on the continuing ethical debate; our links with the Independent Retail Confederation; refining the Gold Standard launched in June; and, of course the Loughborough Conference for jewellers and valuers, which enjoyed bumper celebrations marking twenty-five years.

So another year has almost run full circle. While you, cheered by the merry jingle of cash registers, will be harvesting the bounties of Christmas trade, we will be preparing the ground for next year’s growing season. Pruning, planning, and planting as we go; even if the economy is slow to grow, we’ve got a host of healthy saplings, in the form of new initiatives, to tend in the new year. Most of these can only be hinted at, but as we wave good bye to the BJA, who have shared these pages with us for the last couple of years, we look forward to welcoming a new collaborator. Plus we have exciting new developments in retail education and an even better benefits package to reveal in the new year. So stick with us if you share our fervour for jewellery retailing at its professional best!

Until the next time…

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“Coloured stones are very different from diamonds, as there is no real pricing or grading structure – which makes dealing in them very interesting and quite instinctive…”

As a magazine we’ve become so preoccupied with certain aspects of the retail jewellery world – watches, branded jewellery, ethical issues, security, the cost of precious metals etcetera – that there’s one area I believe we’ve rather neglected. It’s not been deliberate of course, but the section that could loosely come under the description of ‘gifts’ has been allowed to continue on its merry way unhindered by editorial scrutiny.

Well, we shall be putting that right in this issue with a look at what we’ve been missing in the way of writing instruments, silverware, clocks and all those aesthetically pleasing objects that can’t be described as either jewellery or watches. It’s just a toe in the water this time,

Page 44

but now that we’ve discovered their potential, they’ll be back…

Pretty much as coloured stones are back – not just because they’re my personal fancy, but because they’ve been growing rapidly in popularity over the past five years or so. The sheer variety is allure enough, and that’s before adding beauty, fascination and potential for profit as our in-depth feature on p44 illustrates. Also in this issue Jo Young tells the story of an unsung gemstone jewellery master, Suzanne Belperron, while Greg Valerio brings us up to date with how things stand on the issue of ethical coloured stones – there’s still some way to go.

Which is also how things stand on the targeting of the jewellery industry by criminals – it’s clearly a serious problem. We are, however, fighting back. With the SaferGems initiative firmly in place, the NAG’s first Retail Security Conference held this October was another

“By adding to their collections, jewellery retailers can compete with department stores – they are able to offer a one-stop shopping destination without losing the level of customer service…”

positive step in that direction (see p80 for a report on the action-packed day). Finally, from a new event to an established one – this year sees the 25th anniversary of the IRV Conference, which is as good an excuse for a party as any I know… so that’s what happened.

More on that particular weekend on p22.

Which just leaves me a little space to wish everyone a safe, prosperous and above all happy Christmas – see you all in 2013!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 60

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Extra features boost The Jewellery Show ew product areas and features, as well as the doubling in size of the ‘Design Quarter’ have provided a fillip for The Jewellery Show, which takes place at the NEC Birmingham on 3rd – 7th February, 2013. For the first time the event (which promises even more international exhibitors) will include a designated ‘Loose Gems’ area,

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Anja K Designs

plus a special ‘Retail Services’ section which will be devoted to companies providing such products as insurance, Point of Sale and CAD/CAM. The ‘Design Quarter’ – an important destination area for buyers looking to source inspirational and one-off collections from top designer makers and brands will double in size next year. New designers to the show for 2013 include Alex Monroe, Laura Gravestock, Cabinet Studios and Danila Tarcinale as well as several new European designers, who are showing in the UK for the first time including Eva Schreuder and Anja K Designs. The Houlden Group is once again supporting the ‘Design Quarter’ and is looking for new ‘Gems’ to form the ‘Designs of Excellence’ project for 2013.

Following its successful debut in February 2012, the ‘Time’ area will be back next year,

Jewellery School founder nominated for award essica Rose (25), the founder of London Jewellery School, has been chosen as a finalist in the 2012 NatWest everywoman Awards – the programme for championing female entrepreneurship. Rose is a finalist in the Artemis category for women running a business who are aged 25 and under.

Winners will be announced at a lunch ceremony on 5th December.

Aged just 21, Rose left her part time job and university course to fulfil her desire to set up her own business. Having developed a passion for jewellery this seemed a natural path. With very little experience, she embarked on an intensive course of training and began running monthly jewellerymaking courses from a community hall in South London. These were immediately oversubscribed so Rose invested all her

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8 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

savings and a bank loan to secure new premises in Clapham in 2009.

Disaster struck, however, as the venue was not fit for purpose, and Rose was unable to recoup her significant financial investment.

Having been estranged from her parents

as will the catwalk shows, which will see a new association with trend forecasting consultancy Adorn Insight. The Catwalk Café will also play host to a ‘very strong’ seminar programme, providing practical and essential advice to retailers.

since she was 19, she had no safety net to fall back on. Despite facing bankruptcy she refused to give up and, motivated by her commitment to her students and tutors, set up temporarily in Hatton Garden.

The location instantly added credibility, attracting new audiences and London Jewellery School is now the largest independent provider of amateur and professional courses in jewellery making, with 80 different classes taught across two studios by 25 professional tutors.

The school has trained over 5,000 students to date and offers classes suitable for all ages and abilities, with some students coming from as far afield as Africa and China.

Rose has established partnerships with organisations including Visit London, Time Out and Groupon and her turnover is almost £500,000 as a result. Her business acumen has led her to develop a Jewellery Business Distance Learning Course to support those starting out and in 2011 launched a LJS membership scheme. Future plans include national expansion in response to demand from cities around the UK.

Industry News |

New Birmingham Assay Office planned he Birmingham Assay Office has submitted a planning application for Project Gateway, its scheme to create a new bespoke building in the Jewellery Quarter. The scheme has been 18 months in the design pipeline to ensure that it addresses the needs of the Assay Office as a secure, flexible facility. The proposed new building will allow the business to continue to diversify and widen its range of services and initiatives, as well as providing a new home for the Assay Office’s heritage collection to make it more readily accessible to members of the public.

The 55,000 sq ft building, designed by Glazzard Architects, will occupy a landmark position at a key entrance to the Jewellery Quarter at Icknield Street and the designs for the high quality multi-use building have evolved in close co-operation with the planning department and conservation and local interest groups. The BAO has been located at its current premises in Newhall Street for 135 years.

CEO Michael Allchin, says: “This project is all about the future of The Assay Office. Our traditional hallmarking work needs a fit-for-purpose 21st Century facility and our other business activities are growing strongly. This move is essential. We need to be able to carry out our work more productively and so need modern and efficient space. Add to that built-in security, reduced operating costs and much better working conditions for all our team, then it becomes the only way forward. We are working closely with the City Council to progress our plans and are looking forward to opening our new building in 2014”.

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S N I P P E T S Platinum deficit in 2012 A substantial reduction in supplies, combined with lower volumes of recycling have moved the platinum market from surplus to deficit in 2012, according to Johnson Matthey’s Platinum 2012 Interim Review released on 13th November. Strikes and safety stoppages at South African mines have seen platinum production losses estimated to be at least 300,000 oz in the first three-quarters of 2012. The report also notes that demand for platinum in the jewellery sector is expected to reach a three-year high, driven largely by Hong Kong brands opening shops in mainland China.

Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair expands The fourth Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair, which will be held from 27th to 29th January 2013, has grown to incorporate 74 exhibitors. The organisers of the fair have reported that they have been receiving increasing numbers of requests from jewellery manufacturers and retailers worldwide who wish to be included in the list of invited companies to this by-invitation trade fair. Diamond buyers from North America, China, Russia, the Middle East and Europe are expected to attend.

Chamilia launches charity bead Bead and charm jewellery brand Chamilia has launched an exclusive ‘Make-A-Wish’ bead to be sold exclusively through H Samuel and Ernest Jones stores nationwide. For each of the £55 Swarovski crystal encrusted, sterling silver beads sold, Chamilia will donate £12 to the Make-A-Wish charity.

Georg Jensen bought by Investcorp he Danish-based leading luxury jewellery brand Georg Jensen has been acquired from Axcel Capital Partners by Middle Eastern investment house Investcorp for $140m.

The deal was expected to close within a fortnight of the announcement (on 5th November).

As part of the transaction, Investcorp has teamed up with David Chu, the luxury brand entrepreneur and founder of Nautica, who will join the company as chief creative director and co-chairman of the board. Also joining the board will be Guy Leymarie, former CEO of DeBeers, Cartier International and Dunhill.

Investcorp has had a reputation for building luxury brands (including Gucci and Tiffany) but has not made a luxury investment for two decades. The plan with Georg Jensen is to boost sales in the growing luxury markets of Asia – China in particular. The Scandinavian brand currently has 94 stores worldwide including a presence in Australia, Japan and Hong Kong.

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WDC goes mobile The World Diamond Council has expanded its reach to mobile phones and tablet computers, with the launch of both iPhone and iPad applications that mirror its WDC and DiamondFacts websites. The applications can be downloaded free of charge from the Apple Store. The WDC app is geared specifically for members of the Council and diamond and jewellery professionals, and provides news, background information, resource documents, photos and videos covering the activities of the WDC.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Young Designer Silversmith Award heshire-based silversmithing student Kate Earlam (26) has been announced as the winner of the Goldsmiths’ Company’s Young Designer Silversmith Award at a ceremony at the National Museums Scotland on 1st November. During the ceremony her winning piece, a silver fruit dish, was presented to Dr Gordon Rintoul, director of National Museums Scotland by the Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company, Lord Sutherland.

Earlam studied silversmithing at Liverpool Hope University and more recently completed a post-graduate course at Bishopsland. This year the designated instructing silversmith was Clive Burr. She therefore had the experience of working with Burr and his team Andrew Briggs, Paul Savage and Junko Adachi, in his workshop in the new Goldsmiths’ Centre in London’s Clerkenwell. The competition organised by the Goldsmiths’ Company, focuses on young silversmithing students at university in Britain today and is open to any student under 30 on a BA or Master’s degree course.

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Canadian Ice area opens in Goldsmiths K high street jewellers Goldsmiths has opened its first branded area for the ethical diamond collection Canadian Ice. The permanent shop in shop was launched within the store’s Westfield Stratford branch on 2nd November, with the aim of extending out to other stores in the future.

Speaking of the collaboration, Justin Stead, CEO of Aurum Holding commented: “Our relationship with Canadian Ice has proved extremely successful over the last year. To celebrate this success we are happy to be creating this exclusive shop in shop environment for our customer’s to enjoy the brand. It will also give them the opportunity to experience it’s collection in a dedicated environment that reflects Canadian Ice as a brand, and also celebrates its values and beauty.”

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Inhorgenta rebrands for 2013 he German exhibition Inhorgenta Munich, which celebrates its 40th anniversary next year, is ‘repositioning’ itself as a trade show for ‘Jewelry, Timepieces, Lifestyle.’

The new approach is being implemented in a variety of ways. The clear segmentation of the product range and exhibition halls which was initiated this year will continue; the trade show itself will be ‘given a more personal feel’ through content, events and design measures; and the areas of lifestyle and trends will be focused on more closely at the show. Klaus Dittrich, chairman and CEO of Messe München, explains: “It is our claim to develop the profile of Inhorgenta Munich permanently as a brand so that it acts as a mirror to the market in future too. We would like to position the show in the long term as a platform for trends in the mid- to high-price segment.”

The layout of Hall C2 – Contemporary Design – is also being reconfigured with the aim of strengthening the area and emphasising its particular characteristics.

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10 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

S N I P P E T S Jewellers attend Platinum Day Some 20 retailers from across the country attended a ‘Platinum Training Day’ staged

by Domino and Platinum Guild International at Domino’s HQ in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter last month. Attendees took a tour of the company’s high-tech manufacturing facility which included a demonstration of the casting process as well as a look at the firm’s rapid-prototyping facilities, its setting department and in-house Assay Office. “It changed my whole outlook on platinum and I now realise that we can offer it as a first rather than a last option,” said attendee Wendy Foote, director owner of Topsham Jewellers in Devon.

Diamond leaders address Zimbabwe conference The inaugural Zimbabwe Diamond Conference 2012 held at Victoria Falls earlier this month saw leaders from global diamond centres, including India, New York and Antwerp, deliver speeches to around 300 delegates. Keynote speaker on the second day was Abbey Chikhane, KP Monitor for Zimbabwe, who also served as the first chairman of the KP Certification Scheme.

Display Association relaunches website The Shop and Display Equipment Association is celebrating 65 years of serving the retail display industry with the launch of a new look website in acknowledgment of the huge shifts in retail design, thinking, style and approach. In an evolutionary, rather than revolutionary approach, shopdisplay.org has been updated and redesigned with a more streamlined homepage, simplified navigation menu and vibrant colouring.

Fakes & Forgeries seminar The Goldsmiths’ Company is holding a Fakes & Forgeries seminar on Monday 26th November, 2012 at Goldsmiths’ Hall, London. The Assay Office has one of the world’s largest collections of faked and forged silverware and jewellery and the day (from 9.30am to 3.45pm) will aim to arm attendees with the knowledge to help them spot such items. Guest speakers will be Susan Rumfitt and Alastair Dickenson.

| Industry News

Rox Edinburgh launches with celebrity party ward winning Scottish luxury jeweller ROX celebrated the opening of its new £1m flagship store in the Assembly Rooms on 23rd October with a star-studded party. Over 300 VIP guests attended the event which was hosted by singer/songwriter Labrinth (who performed three of his hit tracks), in association with luxury watch brand Raymond Weil.

The exclusive invite-only event introduced guests to ROX’s new boutique designed by Graven Images – the company behind the design of hip five star hotels Blythswood Square in Glasgow and Hotel Missoni in Edinburgh. The new boutique on George Street sprawls over 2,500sq ft including its decadent ‘Thrill Room’ and diamond lounge, which boasts its own Laurent-Perrier champagne bar.

The new boutique follows in the footsteps of ROX’s Argyll Arcade boutique in Glasgow, which has quickly become a favourite with celebrities, sport stars and VIPs alike since it was re-launched in autumn 2010 following a £1m expansion.

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CIBJO president presents Gem-A awards aetano Cavalieri, president of CIBJO, the World Jewellery Federation, gave an address at Gem-A’s 2012 Graduation Ceremony and Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall on Monday 5th November. Cavalieri joined Gem-A in celebrating the successes of students who have achieved eligibility for FGA and DGA status over the past year. His motivating talk included a report on how CIBJO and Gem-A are working with UK industry associations to increase corporate social responsibility – specifically through the NAG’s Ethics Working Party.

The evening’s proceedings were kicked off by recently-appointed Gem-A CEO James Riley, who expressed the truly international nature of the Association. James said: “Tonight we are joined by students from countries around the globe. It’s great to see that some of our students have come from as far as China, Japan and the USA to join in the celebrations on this special evening.” This sentiment was echoed by Gem-A president Harry Levy who added: “I sat where you are 40 years ago, so let’s hope that if I can make it to this point, one or more of you will eventually be up here one day!”

Student presentations were followed by awards honouring those who have made a special contribution to both the Association and the trade. Antoinette Matlins, Bear Williams, Richard Drucker and Gem-A’s James Riley were all made Fellows by Redemption, while Dr Tony Allnutt, Peter Dwyer-Hickey and Dr Roger Harding were made Honorary Lifetime Members of the Association. All were praised for their tireless work in research and teaching, and for innovations in the field.

In his speech Cavalieri told students: “Your passion for stones will become realised when you discover the stories behind these stones; the people who mine them, who cut them, and how they got there to begin with. These stories go hand-in-hand with the Ethical Standards and Corporate Social Responsibility that the industry is now setting. I look forward to watching you all serve the industry in this light, and in the way it deserves.”

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12 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

S N I P P E T S Van Peterson celebrates 30 years trading Chelsea jeweller Van Peterson Design is celebrating 30 years on Walton Street in Chelsea. Founded by husband and wife team Eric and Lin Van Peterson, the business began as a stall in London’s Camden Market, before developing – via an antique shop selling Art Nouveau and Art Deco ceramics and jewellery in Sloane Square – into the Walton Street shop and their own designed pieces. For the future the couple have plans to include a wholesale side to the business.

Clogau Christmas ad runs Friday 26th October saw the start of Clogau’s new nine-week pre-Christmas TV ad campaign, which aired initially on ITV Wales and extended to include ITV Granada in November. Filmed at the unique North Wales coastal resort of Portmeirion, and Blackrock Sands, the 40 second advert aims to expose the brand to a new audience as well as establish a fresh appeal to an existing audience using a newly adopted fairytales theme. A competition to win a piece of jewellery featured in the advert will be held online at www.clogau.co.uk and at approved Clogau retailer stores.

Things get hairy at Warrenders his November the Surrey family jewellers is supporting Prostate Cancer UK and the Institute of Cancer Research by taking part in ‘Movember’ the moustache-growing fund raising event that raises awareness for men’s health issues. Movember aims to change established habits and attitudes men have towards prostate and testicular cancer, educating men to the health risks they face.

Warrender staff members Simon and Richard Warrender, David Robb and Jim Donnelly have all committed to growing a moustache for the 30 days of November to help raise funds for the charity. Their moustache growing efforts will be recorded weekly on www.warrenders.co.uk and readers are invited to show their support for the cause via their registered fundraising web page: http://uk.movember.com/team/680473

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Industry News |

Pandora sponsors Girls Aloud tour anish jewellery brand Pandora is to be the official sponsor of the forthcoming tour for girl band Girls Aloud, The Hits Tour 2013, which will take place in February and March. As part of the partnership, each band member has designed her own charm bracelet, to reflect her personality and story.

The five different styles will be promoted nationwide across all Pandora stores.

The five piece band has supported the collaboration with visible product placement, each girl wearing her own bracelet in a photo shoot and in their music video for the new single ‘Something New’. Short films have been created in which they talk about their unforgettable moments throughout their lives. Some are evident in their bracelet designs, for example Cheryl Cole mentions her performance at The Queen’s Jubilee earlier this year and has appropriately picked the new sterling silver crown charm as the centre piece of her bracelet. These films will be played on the official Pandora website, www.pandora.net alongside the images of the girls, which is in addition to the bespoke point of sale that will be installed throughout stores.

Pandora will also offer its club members an opportunity to buy the Girls Aloud concert tickets 48 hours before general release, rewarding club loyalty and also enabling strong recruitment.

Any customers that sign up to Pandora Club during this period will automatically enter into a prize draw to meet and greet the girls and win a free bracelet of their choice.

President for Pandora Western Europe, Peter Andersen commented; “We are delighted to be working with Girls Aloud for their tour, for us they are the perfect band to support. They appeal to a wide family audience, most notably the female demographic which is key for us.

This celebrity partnership is the first of its kind for Pandora UK.”

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New look for Scotland’s Trade Fair cotland’s Trade Fair 2013 (20th – 22nd January) will take on a fresh look next year with a completely changed layout to make navigation round stands even easier for buyers. As the only gift trade show for the north of the UK it provides a platform for retailers to buy for the year ahead and attracts a good proportion of new and original exhibitors.

The new layout breaks the show into three sections – Home and Giftware on one side, Clothing, Jewellery and Accessories on the other and at the top is Scotland’s Speciality Food Show. Running right down the middle of the show is the Launch Gallery – a specially constructed area for innovative start-up businesses under two years old.

Jewellery is a key part of the show with a range of well-established companies and many new artisan ones. Prominent established exhibitors such as Ortak, Sheila Fleet, Scottish Sea Glass, Tartan Twist, Highland Gems and Rosa Red will be launching their 2013 ranges.

Innovative new jewellery companies under two years old include Carla Deeney jewellery and Mi sterling silver and gold jewellery.

Tartan Twist

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S N I P P E T S Tiger kidnap sees loss of €21m The Italian mafia was behind a diamond robbery worth Rs 150 crore (about €28m) in Antwerp in October. The target was Mumbai-based sightholder Kiran Gems, the wife of whose sales manager was kidnapped at gunpoint and placed under house arrest.

The robbers fitted cameras to the manager to record his movements. He was told to go to his office to get the stock of diamonds from the safe vault. After he handed over the diamonds his wife was released.

Tresor Paris activities Tresor Paris supported the 16th annual Breast Cancer Care Show at Grosvenor House in London last month. The brand sponsored the Heads and Tails Game which will gave guests the opportunity to win two of their diamond pieces – a white gold bracelet featuring micro set brilliant cut diamonds worth £1,199 and a diamond and rose gold bracelet with 1.8 carats worth of brilliant cut diamonds, micro set in 18 carat rose gold surrounded by agate and rose gold spheres, priced at £6,995. Also this autumn Tresor Paris sponsored the Best UK female category at this year’s MOBO Awards which was being held on November 13th.

RJC update The Responsible Jewellery Council has announced that the De Beers Group of Companies has achieved certification meeting the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC’s Member Certification system.

This follows ten further members who achieved certification in October, bringing the current total to 227 from a membership of just over 400. October also saw the appointment of James Courage (CEO of Platinum Guild International) as RJC chairman. He succeeds Dr. Matt Runci who retires at the end of this year.

Magpie supplies Houlden Group Magpie (Europe), manufacturer of GemTags and NAG member, has become an accredited supplier to members of the Houlden Group. The company manufactures its range of jewellery labels, tags and accessories from its own UK site.

The Voice of the Industry 15

| Industry News

TA Henn appointment for online growth ollowing the investment of £100k to update its Wolverhampton-based store, independent jewellers TA Henn has recruited a design and communications specialist to spearhead long-term online marketing plans.

John Wright, a former employee, has returned to the company following nearly a decade of international experience in the fields of design and marketing.

Supporting marketing director Magali Henn, Wright will implement plans to create a ‘cutting-edge’ website store to compete with market leaders in the online retail of luxury goods. Backed up by a rolling marketing campaign including social media sites Twitter ad Facebook, TA Henn is “continuing to invest in growth so that customers worldwide can benefit from the company’s long-standing reputation in the West Midlands in providing the highest quality products and customer care,” says Wright.

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Craft organisation seeks help he Hand Engravers Association of Great Britain says that it needs more help with its work.

It is seeking a volunteer (maybe someone from outside the craft) able to assist in: working with people who commission engravers; liaising with other organisations on issues such as training; involving more UK-wide engravers and making international connection.

The suitable candidate should like crafts, have management/business experience, have time to spend with the Association, be able to talk convincingly with craftsmen, experts, funders etc and live within easy reach of London. As a member of the Executive Committee, they would be expected to attend all or most of four executive meetings a year. For more details contact Jessica Turrell at: info@handengravers.co.uk

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Houlden and Platinum partnership he Houlden Group is to create a commercial opportunity for the winner of the 2013 Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship & Design Platinum Award. The winning piece in the Platinum Special Award category, which will be sponsored by PGI, will be guaranteed a route to retail through Houlden. The designs will be judged by a team of jewellery experts and consumer media representatives. The winner will be put into production by one of the UK’s leading platinum jewellery manufacturers and will be available exclusively from Houlden Group members. In order to bring fresh thinking and energy to the competition, the challenge to designers is to create an inspirational pendant design which will engage customers looking for a special gift or jewellery piece as a reminder of a special moment.

Ruth Donaldson of PGI UK commented, “We wanted to inject relevance and excitement into this category. Jewellery is an emotional purchase, and platinum’s unique and enduring qualities are perfect to inspire a design consumers will cherish. By pairing creativity with commercial sense, we hope to see an iconic pendant, its story and materials resonating with an audience looking for something special and lasting value. We know that Houlden members are passionate believers in fresh design, and the opportunity for designers is a fantastic one.”

The Special Platinum Award category is open now and the deadline for entries is 18th January 2013. Further information and the design brief is available from PGI’s website www.platinumguild.co.uk or from Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council.

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16 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

S N I P P E T S Diamond prices decline Political and economic uncertainties in the US resulted in the continued decline of diamond prices in October, along with quiet trading at the end of the month thanks to Hurricane Sandy which halted business in New York’s diamond market. China’s leadership transition has also brought additional uncertainty to that market.

The RapNet Diamond Index shows that 1ct certified diamond fells 1.8 per cent, however, the recently-released Rapaport Research report says that the mood among traders improved slightly in October, compared to the quiet third quarter period – spurred by the hope that the holiday season will raise trading volume.

Jagger’s girl is face of Vivienne Westwood jewellery Georgia May Jagger, daughter of Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall, was unveiled as the face of the ‘Gainsborough Collection’ by Vivienne Westwood. The fine jewellery line, made in palladium, made its debut during Paris Fashion Week and featured in the designer’s Gold Label collection for S/S 2013.

The ‘Gainsborough Collection’ takes inspiration from ‘Paper Jewellery’ which Westwood first introduced in 2000 and is a modern interpretation of the trompe l’oeil drawings, which featured on the originals.

The collection emphasises palladium’s qualities, reflecting its properties of lightness and strength through the intricate design and delicate craftsmanship of the jewellery.

The nine-piece collection consists of the couture necklace, tiara and earrings, detailed with diamonds and sapphires. A necklace, pendant, long and small earrings, ring and bracelet complete the collection.

| NAG News

Creative expert Judy Head delivers NAG Essential Display seminar his exciting and creative seminar took place at NAG HQ on 4th October and aimed to give attendees the skills to produce show stopping window displays. The seminar was delivered by Judy Head, a specialist in graphic design & illustration, marketing, brand development and visual merchandising. She led the way when she set up a regeneration project in Hatton Garden designed to ring fence jewellery and silverware manufacturing and the diamond industry in the area.

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Judy shows the attendees how to create a thoughtful window display

Judy’s courses are very hands-on and provide students with a tool box of skills that will enable them to achieve their practical goals. During the Essential Display seminar she guided the attendees through the Dos and Don’ts of displaying stock and focused on how to entice customers into a store.

“Retail jewellers still have a tendency to fill the windows by simply emptying the safe – often thinking about what they want to sell and not necessarily what their customers might want to buy,” she explained. “What your customers may really want to buy could range from a whole host of products or services such as valuations, repairs or even the re-modelling of an old piece of jewellery.

I believe that successful visual merchandising is not just a bit of cosmetic surgery but about ensuring the customer really knows what you – the professional jewellery retailer, often with generations of experience behind him and her – can do for them. It is up to the retailer to use their window displays to display this information more effectively.”

Diamonds and Diamond Grading seminar with Eric Emms eading UK authority on diamond grading Eric Emms delivered a two-day NAG Diamonds and Diamond Grading seminar in London last month – presented specifically from a retail jeweller’s perspective. Topics covered included: diamond identification and cut grade determination, treatments, clarity and colour grading, symmetry and proportions, carat weight estimation, current diamond economics, and corporate responsibility issues. During the seminar each delegate was provided with their own workspace and grading lamp so they could examine a range of diamond qualities, and a full set of comprehensive seminar notes.

Emms has been identifying and grading diamonds for 30 years and is well-known in the diamond and precious stone industry through his many years work at the Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain and the London Precious Stone Laboratory.

Karen Keen from Hester Clarke Fine Jewellers in Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire attended the seminar and said: “I really enjoyed the seminar, I feel now I have the confidence to colour grade and clarity grade diamonds. The seminar was well presented and in a stimulating fashion too, the subjects were covered thoroughly and overall the seminar taught me a lot.”

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We would love to know what other short courses and seminars you would find useful in the future. Whether sales and marketing, social media, mobile, websites, Google analytics, finance, valuation, business start up, HR – please let us know and we can make sure we offer the courses that you need to help your businesses grow.

Email us at: nag@jewellers-online.org

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Delegates gave warm comments when we asked them how useful the seminar was for them and their businesses: “Brilliant, I have learned so much. I would definitely recommend this course to others”; “A really Seminar attendees develop their creative display skills during practical sessions

enjoyable informative hands on course; it has definitely improved my display skills”, and “A stimulating, enjoyable and very informative day. We covered a broad range of subjects which kept me interested throughout. The handouts were a comprehensive guide of which will be very helpful back in the workplace for everyone to use”.

Johnson’s Bond style celebrations for 115th birthday s part of celebrations to mark its 115th anniversary, NAG member Johnson’s, based in Nuneaton, held a very glamorous event – an exclusive premier of the new James Bond film Skyfall. Guests enjoyed a pre-film buffet at a nearby restaurant and were welcomed to the premier with the customary red carpet. The evening was a truly black tie affair, with cinema-goers attired in apparel that 007 would approve of.

Libby Johnson, director of Johnsons said: “The Skyfall premier was such a fantastic evening. It has been another brilliant way to celebrate our 115th birthday in style and we were so pleased to welcome our guests to enjoy the evening with us.” The evening raised a total of £4000.00 for local Mary Anne Evans Hospice charity and was a great success, enjoyed by all.

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NAG News |

Social media seminar held in Brighton hands-on NAG Social Media seminar held in Brighton last month helped delegates gain practical experience of Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest, blogging and YouTube. The seminar was lead by Jackie Barrie of Silicon Beach Training, who specialises in facilitating workshops in social media, networking, copywriting and marketing skills.

“The course was packed full with lots of interesting examples and useful social media tips.

The course guide had an incredible amount of valuable information and featured numerous free sources of further information for businesses to explore going forwards,” said Charley Torr NAG marketing and communications officer, who attended.

David Fuller from WB The Creative Jewellery Group, another attendee, added: “It opened me up to new ideas and answered everything I wanted to ask about social media and how it could help business wise. The knowledge of each social media tool was excellent and we covered a lot in one day. Thank you very much!”

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Chisholm Hunter adds sparkle to Bluewater AG member, diamond merchant and jeweller Chisholm Hunter is the newest jewellery tenant to join Kent’s Bluewater Shopping Centre. The new flagship store opened on the ground floor on 31st of October, creating 14 full and part-time jobs. The new store is the 18th in the group and will stock watch brands including Rado, Ebel, Oris, Certina, TW Steel, DKNY, Michael Kors, Armani, Hugo Boss and ICE. Jewellery brands include Carat, Unique, Tresor Paris and TF Cufflinks. Its launch is part of a wider expansion programme which will see the business expand further in the next six months.

Tracey Brown, director of Chisholm Hunter, said: “We have always wanted a store in Bluewater which is Europe’s most exciting shopping destination and we are delighted we will have the doors open in time for the busy festive period.”

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New Member Applications The NAG social media seminar group at Silicon Beach Training in Brighton

NAG membership department steps back in time with Great War minutes he NAG Membership Department, as welling as looking to the future of the Association, is also looking to its past by transcribing the handwritten minutes of the NAG Council from just before and during World War One. The issues of the time within the jewellery industry make for fascinating reading, and are not a million miles away from some of the challenges we face today. The transcribed minutes will be available on request in the near future.

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Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Affiliate Applications Montblanc (UK) Ltd, Richmond, Surrey Denzil Skinner & Partners LLP, Edinburgh

Allied Applications Jewellery Solutions Ltd, Pinner, Middlesex

Alumni Applications Deborah Mazza-Newman, Rochester, Kent Emma Jane Fortune, Oxford

Miles Mann wins Family Business of the Year award loucester based bullion dealer and retail jeweller Miles Mann was one of the winners at the prestigious Gloucestershire Media Business Awards 2012. The NAG member scooped the Family Business of the Year award. Miles is the seventh generation of jewellers in his family which traces its history in the trade back to 1741. As well as the Gold Buying Centre business, the company operates five retail outlets in the South West.

“Our experience as retail jewellers enables us to fully understand our customer’s needs and helps them to maximise the potential of their gold buying business,” explained Miles.

“We are delighted to have won this award as recognition for the efforts we have made to develop the Gold Buying Centre brand.”

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Natalie Simcox, Harrogate, Yorkshire Kirsty Nicolson, Weymouth, Dorset

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these please contact Sandra Page on tel: (029) 2081 3615.

New Member Applicants Alessandro Borruso PJValDip FGA DGA, Bentley & Skinner (Bond Street Jwlrs) Ltd, London.

Upgrading from Member to Fellow Paul W Johnston PJDip FGA, Belfast.

Adrian S Smith PJDip FGA, Perth.

The Voice of the Industry 19

| NAG News

NAG Member of the Month In this issue’s Member of the Month, Amy Oliver speaks to Peter Wong of Wongs Jewellers in Liverpool, Merseyside.

The shop offers an extensive selection of designer and bespoke jewellery, with the added draw of a visible workshop in store.

This December you’ll celebrate 33 years in business; what was the motivation for setting up the shop?

My mother and father, Susan and Brian, established Wongs Jewellers in 1979 and our family business has been going strong ever since. Initially they set up as a small, out of sight workshop on Mathew Street; but really my parents wanted to create a local, welcoming jewellery business.

What was the biggest hurdle when the shop opened back in 1979, and does this differ from the challenges you face today?

Building successful relationships with our customers has been at the heart of our business since day one. However, as the years have gone by, the business has evolved and we have discovered new challenges.

Currently, the biggest challenge we face as an independent jeweller is keeping up with consumer trends and expectations.

Research into buying and visual merchandising is now more important than ever.

Customers expect elements of theatre when purchasing jewellery, and our new showroom has allowed us to transform the way we present our products. We also aim to seek out promising young designers and get ahead of the trends by attending industry showcases.

Many jewellery graduates have decided to start their own businesses due to the current economic climate; what advice would you give to them?

I believe that the opportunity to set up an innovative new brand is out there for creative and hard working graduates. I would recommend doing plenty of research around your business hopes, and put a plan together which details your business strategy for the next few years. Having a mentor in the jewellery trade or working with services such as Business Link can help you to do this.

Supplier contacts are also incredibly important and have a direct impact on the quality of the pieces you create. It is vital to research suppliers and build strong relationships with your contacts to ensure that you can work consistently with the best possible materials.

The upsurge in online shopping has been immense over the last few years; how important is your website to your business, and have you noticed more people buying from you online?

The rising prominence of online shopping is apparent, and developing the online aspect of Wongs Jewellers has been key for us in the last few years. Our own website, www.wongsjewellers.co.uk, was launched in

2010 and we have recently developed an online sales offering.

It is incredibly important to ensure that retailers keep their online presence up to date and make their website a valuable extension of the business. We have certainly noticed a surge in online purchases since launching the sales platform.

However, you just can’t beat viewing, holding and trying on pieces of fine jewellery in the showroom. For some of our services, such as our bespoke jewellery design offering, speaking with our talented designers and goldsmiths in the showroom is essential.

What are the best-selling products you stock at the moment and why do you think this is?

With Christmas coming up, we’ve seen a rise in sales of our silver fashion jewellery.

The price point is perfect for festive gifts and we have some wonderful collections available in store, including Ti Sento, Fei Liu, Missoma and Bastian Inverun.

We have also seen a rise in sales of engagement rings and interest in our bespoke ring design services, proving that Christmas is becoming a popular time to pop the question.

Finally, can you share a memorable customer anecdote with us?

A customer, while dropping in an item for repair, saw a necklace in our window and commented to her husband how beautiful it was. Unbeknown to the customer, her husband paid for the necklace and asked us to place it in the repair packet with the item for collection. Needless to say it came as a complete surprise to her and she burst into floods of tears!

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, write in and tell us why! Please send an email to: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org

20 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

STAINLESS STEEL & LEATHER

The Voice of the Industry 21

| NAG News: IRV Review

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The Big Birthday Bash With an anniversary to celebrate, the Loughborough Conference was always going to be a little more special this year. As there were so many top notch lectures to sit in on and workshops to participate in, we asked a handful of attendees to add to our overview of the milestone event, says Sandra Page. veryone has to have a first time and for The Jeweller’s editor Belinda Morris, this year it was her turn to be sporting a name badge with the tell-tale green ‘Loughborough virgin’ sticker. “I certainly chose the right moment to join the Conference, but birthday festivities aside, I can now see why everyone has always said that this is a weekend not to miss,” she says. “And while as a reporter viewing the industry from the fringes – rather than being a jeweller or experienced valuer – many of the workshop topics whizzed over my head somewhat, I found the whole experience fascinating and eye-opening.

“As an amateur gemstone lover I found Tracy Jukes’ overview of the last 25 years of

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Eric Knowles’ addresses the Conference

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the gem industry and the factors that have influenced prices, so enlightening,” she adds. “And the two workshops relating to auctions, by Stephen Whittaker and Naomi Wilson from Fellows, added a further insight into the industry that as an observer I found incredibly useful. Trying to decide which workshops to attend was extremely difficult – I wanted to experience them all! I can also say that it has been a long time since I have cried laughing during a lecture – but that was the unforeseen state I found myself in during Eric Knowles’ hilarious talk.”

With ‘silver’ being a key theme of the Conference, one of the many illustrious speakers – Alastair Dickenson – shocked his audience with endless fakes and forgeries in

his talk ‘Silver Guilt’. Having worked in silver for almost 40 years and being a member of the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow team for 20, he is pretty well-placed to comment on the tactics used (knowingly or unwittingly) by those selling antique silverware. Connecting to the internet from the lecture room to view a selection of pages from eBay (other online auction sites are available) Dickenson illustrated the very real dangers of buying antique silver without seeing it with your own eyes and the very real perils of believing everything you read on the internet.

The Silver Jubilee also provided an ideal opportunity to see just how many delegates have supported the Institute as well as the Conference from the beginning. A photo call gathered the 11 together (facing page): back row – left to right: Robert Bolton, Georgina Deer, Peter Buckie, J Louise Butterworth, Anne Gill and D John Sayer and front row – left to right: D John Harrold, Roy Huddlestone, Terence Watts, Chris Miles and Charles Perry.

We’re proud of the support IRVs give to this annual event. If you add up the number of Conferences attended by the 11 IRVs pictured alone the total comes to 192 years! (D John Harrold has been to all 22 Loughborough ones as well as the first two held at Earls Court back in 1988 and 1989.

Both Terence Watts and D John Sayer have been to 23 each!)

IRV Forum election Naturally the Conference is also the ideal time to carry out certain official IRV duties, the first being the election to the IRV Forum.

This year it was Geoff Whitefield FIRV PJDip PJGemDip FNAG’s turn to stand down from

NAG News: IRV Review | IRV monitoring exercise This important annual event takes place early in the year and at the Conference David Callaghan, on behalf of the panel of fellow markers (Peter Buckie and Michael Inkpen), reported to the delegates on the outcome of the exercise, particularly highlighting areas which appear to have been problematic for the IRVs involved in the 2012 exercise.

A copy of the marking panel’s written report (which appeared in the Delegate’s Folder) can also be found on the IRVs’ area of the IRV website. A copy is also available upon request.

There was also time during the Conference for delegates to visit the stands of the seven exhibitors who play such a key role in our industry: AnchorCert/SafeGuard, Bransom, Fellows, Gem-A, The Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, T H March and Quantum Leap.

Conference impressions

the Forum after serving for a term of three years. In accordance with the rules relating to election to the Forum, Geoff put himself forward for re-election for a further threeyear term (six being the maximum term anyone elected to the Forum can serve).

Barry Sullivan FIRV MAE and A Ewen Taylor FIRV PJDip FGA DGA also put themselves forward for election.

All IRVs present were invited to take part in a ballot and to vote for a candidate with the majority voting for Geoff, whose position will now continue until 2015.

Award ceremony After the black tie dinner on Saturday evening, it was time for the presentation of awards, kicking off with Fellowship IRV certificates handed out to those MIRVs who have achieved FIRV status since the last Conference. This year certificates were awarded to Patricia Negus, Andrée Richardson, Jacqueline Sanders, Adrian Smith, Antony Specterman and Geoff Whitefield. There are currently 41 FIRVs out of a membership of 227 IRVs. A highlight of the Conference is always the bestowing of the David Wilkins Award.

First introduced in 1994 in memory of the late David Wilkins, a founder of the NAG Registered Valuer Scheme, it is given to the individual who has demonstrated outstanding skill, dedication or service in respect of jewellery valuation and appraisal.

In the presence of David’s widow, Margaret, delegates rapturously congratulated Jonathan Lambert, the IRV chairman, on being presented with the Award. Jonathan, who has announced that he will be standing down as chairman next June, was clearly overcome with emotion at being chosen by his peers to receive this prestigious Award.

“It is a great honour to receive the David Wilkins Award, made even more special by the fact that the nominations come from the IRV membership. I am proud and humbled for my name to be engraved alongside those who have so richly deserved the award in the past and I hope to be able to continue to give back to the Institute from which I have gained so much,” commented Jonathan Along with Jonathan, nominees for the David Wilkins Award this year included: Eric Emms, D John Harrold, Shirley Mitchell, Barry Sullivan, Geoff Whitefield and Phil Withington.

The Loughborough Conference lived up to all expectations and with the 25th anniversary to celebrate this year it was a pleasure to be able to be part of that. Twenty-five years goes by very quickly and for some, many hours of dedication and hard work have taken place to develop and get to where we are today – from a mere National Association of Goldsmiths’ Registered Valuers Scheme to the NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers.

Adrian Smith receives his FIRV certificate from Jonathan Lambert

The Voice of the Industry 23

| NAG News: IRV Review Jonathan receives the David Wilkins Award from David’s widow Margaret

I joined the scheme in 1993, when I returned to the UK from Canada. This year was my 34th year in the jewellery industry and I have witnessed many changes! The challenges we face today are immense and business ideals change very rapidly.

The evolution of the Institute enters a new phase with the Certificate of Appraisal Theory (CAT) coming to fruition; this can only enhance the professional standing of the Institute.

Over the last 25 years the Loughborough Conference has witnessed many speakers and workshops. This year provided a wonderful combination of presentations which took us on an historical journey with the ‘Silver Pennies and the Pyx’ by Robert Turner and ‘Silver and the English’ by David Evans. The presentation by silversmith Grant MacDonald was a marvel and an inspiration to many – the sheer scale and opulence of some of the pieces commissioned being not only exotic but breathtakingly lavish and, of course, stunning.

After a thoroughly enjoyable Saturday evening catching up with old friends and colleagues and meeting new ones, Sunday was a quiet start for some. TV presenter Eric Knowles gave a very entertaining presentation which was executed with charm and flair that makes him such a joy to listen to, whether it be on the television, or as we were so fortunate to experience, in person.

The workshops were well organised and provided very interesting educational material, new concepts and wonderful images and items to examine. A late Saturday evening saw some of us trying to examine loose diamonds in Rosamond Clayton’s workshop – not shooting these

24 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

little beasties across the room and ‘focusing’ on examining proportions of cut, proved very somewhat challenging!

The Loughborough Conference I am sure will continue to grow and inspire those who attend. In this industry one can always learn and see something new and the much anticipated event always provides an excellent environment and ambience in which to be informed while sharing knowledge and experience.

Andrée Richardson BSC (Hons) FCGmA FIRV MAE

The murky world of the silver deceivers Steve Collins, the sales and business development manager for the London Assay Office, led an extremely interesting workshop titled ‘Curious and Spurious Silver’. I am sure that almost all of us know and love the hallmarks that we recognise daily in our work. Steve was there to reveal the dark arts that have plagued this trade for centuries – ‘if you can make it, you can fake it’ are simple words but perfectly true.

The Assay Office has altered sequences and changed details to fool the dodgers, so it is important to look up the hallmarks of the piece that is in front of you – if something is wrong you must try to find it.

Some of those that have swindled are plain lazy, others beg the question ‘why did they go to such enormous lengths?’ Spotting their work is vital.

Steve explained that change of use is not allowed without approval by the Assay Office – something I confess I had not thought too much about. That straight sided tankard that has been converted into a teapot is illegal (the Antique Plate Committee meet regularly to review pieces; a converted item needs approval, under ‘change of use’) as it was hallmarked as one thing and not as the other. If something is reassayed then of course it will have a current hallmark.

Steve highlighted some key points on silver.

Does the hallmark date match the style?

Clearly an Art Deco candlestick should not have a hallmark for 1780. So there is merit in learning the styles of the ages and the king or queen on the throne at the time etc.

Beware though, as there is so much to learn on the subject.

The X-ray of silver can reveal tricks that have been performed. The phrase ‘cut and shut’ comes to mind and Steve showed us a coffee pot that was part silver and part silver plate, a large patch had been grafted on to the silver… nice! It is worth saying that if the silver candelabrum is marked as being Paul Storr for example, one might wish to get a second opinion as faking his name has been done before and will be done again.

There are many illegal tankard conversions – like a massively oversize sugar dredger that we examined, that had once been something else entirely – weird sizes and proportions should raise alarm bells. Look for the impossible; a coffee jug made before we drank coffee for example. One interesting fact is that a small number of companies must have looked at our hallmarks and thought they look pretty and set about roughly copying them. One case is the US Gorham Manufacturing Co. They had some silver plated goods for a time with a series of marks that are worryingly close to our hallmarks. Check what you are looking at.

A number of known forgers faked a whole load of silver goods and some were ‘good’.

It could be that shops and country houses contain some of their wares. Today there are three compulsory marks: the Assay Office, the fineness and the maker/sponsor with the date now an option, but London almost always include this too. Clearly there are now legal European marks that you should know about and the October 2011 Hallmarking Guidance Notes booklet issued by the Hallmarking Council is the latest and best overview guide to the current picture.

Some of Steve’s examples showed transposing of hallmarks; taking from one Grant MacDonald delivering his inspiring lecture

| NAG News: IRV Review item and fitting to another. We also looked at forged punches and the reality that many pieces felt wrong because they were too heavy – very heavy plating on copper is out there so be aware.

Emblems and symbols were used traditionally because few people could read.

Look at the location of a hallmark – if the soup ladle is hallmarked in a very odd place you could have a forgery. Laser hallmarks are recent, so if you have an old item with laser hallmarks, something is wrong. Look for joins, seams, hairlines, colour changes.

The testing set you have been using for gold can be used for silver objects too.

And remember, the Assay Office is there to help and contact is easy.

Robert East

The magic of luminescence and lasers A stunning star shaped display of mobile red and green laser spots opened Richard Taylor’s thought-provoking workshop, following which attendees were introduced to the effects of ultra violet light upon a gin and tonic! The quinine (as a lumiphore) within the tonic caused a fluorescent effect. The reason for this effect however is more complex than first appears and the addition of salt to the drink had a surprising result. Fluorescence is not really just the result of a light source exciting an atom but also its effect on the group of molecules within which the lumiphore has a place.

This was later demonstrated using blue (448nm) and violet (405nm) lasers, which were used on an assortment of rubies.

There were variations in responses – with the use of the violet laser some rubies showing a marked reduction in their fluorescence. We know that iron will reduce or ‘quench’ fluorescence in ruby, therefore the laser identified which of the stones had a higher degree of iron in their composition, and that the degree with which a lumiphore can act is entirely due to its relationship with the surrounding atoms. Richard then went on to outline that there were more types of radiation with which stones may be analysed, pointing out that X-radiation was very efficient in this.

What can fluorescence/luminescence tell us? It can aid in identification of a stone. It can tell us its trace element chemistry, structural

26 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Anthony Specterman receives his FIRV certificate from Jonathan Lambert

defects and crystal lattice, its age (it extends further than radio carbon dating) and can record the pressure and temperature history of the mineral or gemstone’s formation. It can also be used in detecting heat treatments and origins and differentiating (synthetic or natural) gemstones.

As well as the practical demonstration of lasers there were words of caution. We have all heard of the misuse of lasers and how easy it is to be blinded by them. Richard was keen to emphasise the importance of safety when using lasers. With the aid of diagrams he showed the ‘anatomy’ of the human eye, explaining the importance of a tiny area responsible for the majority of normal vision. Damage to eyesight with a laser can easily occur and not always caused by direct light but often from reflected beams.

This is of particular significance when examining a gem – the nature of its faceting light will ‘sparkle’ off reflecting facets and from total internal reflections at indeterminate angles. Safety and careful handling is the mantra. There were four classes of laser and the lowest (class 1) is the best and safest for gemmology. The most intense lasers have more potential to do damage to eyes; a split second’s mistake could ruin 85 per cent of one’s vision. Richard emphasised there was no point in purchasing ‘military specification’ high power lasers and blinding oneself!

With the aid of two surprising brain-toeye-message tricking pictures there followed a lesson in subjectivity and how ‘perception of colour’ could over-ride the reality of

factual colour. A red and a green laser were shone upon the wall; the green looked much more intense although both lasers were of the same intensity. The human eye is apparently more sensitive to the green part of the visible spectrum and the greater sensitivity alone made the green laser appear more intense. Richard showed a fluorescent image taken of a brown diamond (Type II) excited by a 365nm laser. Structural slip planes in the diamond’s structure were enhanced and made much more visible.

We were then invited to watch the results as Richard shone assorted colours of laser pointers on gemstones in bags. There were distinctions to be seen between (Akoya) saltwater cultured pearls and freshwater cultured pearls. Other gems examined were natural rubies and rubies treated with glass as well as sapphires, topaz and moonstone.

Chelsea filters and the London dichroscope were also introduced widening the diagnostic scope into the directional properties of light in some gemstones.

Although laser effects on gemstones may appear to be a complex subject, it was cleverly and professionally demonstrated. At the close of the workshop, Richard asked everyone to help to assist in building up a database of effects seen when using lasers of different wavelengths. He would be interested to receive results seen within gemstones that gemmologists observe.

For guidance on the purchase of lasers email Richard Taylor: rpt5@st-andrews.as.uk or rpa.taylor@btconnect.com .

A Ewen Taylor

And now for something completely different…

If Saturday night was about gongs and formalities, Sunday evening was more about… colour. In honour of Brian Dunn (who had a bit of a thing for lairy shirts), who very sadly passed away last year, delegates wore their brightest and boldest attire for dinner. We think Brian would have enjoyed the spectacle even if he would surely have out-brazened them!

Roll-on Loughborough 2013!

Photography by Bransom’s Daren Daniels and Miles Hoare

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| NAG News: Education & Training

September Bransom Award winner In this issue we celebrate September’s winner of the Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award for 2012 – Siobhan Walsh of Goldsmiths in Newcastle Upon Tyne. From the assignments received Siobhan’s was chosen as the most worthy of the prize. ach month the education department enters all JET 1 Assignments into a competition – sponsored by Bransom Retail Systems – to find the ‘best project’. The prize is a trip to Goldsmiths’ Hall in London for the presentation of certificates at our annual award ceremony. Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma.

Siobhan’s tutor Michelle McCormick was unsurprised at her success: “Siobhan was punctual with her assignments, she researched all the subjects for them from many sources, and this provided informative and interesting coverage,” she explained. She understands the importance of developing a rapport with her customers and included this information in her assignments.”

E

When we asked the project moderator why Siobhan’s project stood out from the rest, they commented: “The final piece of JET 1 course assignment work from Siobhan has all the hallmarks of the high standards shown in her earlier pieces of course work.

It has been very carefully laid out to enable the reader to appreciate the depth of research, and the professional manner of presenting interesting facts in each section.

Practical selling skills were clearly displayed in the section dealing with communicating of information to a customer of the relevance and importance of diamond terminology and grading systems. The final section was particularly interesting because there were various viable options presented to the customer, who was seeking assistance on the three stone diamond ring.”

“I’ve only just recently started in the trade and where I work JET 1 is seen as the first

2013 – the year of the CAT his time last year we announced the outline for the IRV’s Certificate in Appraisal Theory (CAT). Following this year’s Loughborough Conference further developments in the CAT programme have been revealed. With places on the course currently being pre-booked, CAT seems set to become the new flagship educational programme in the study of valuation science.

So what is CAT? No, not a witch’s familiar but a modular programme of study in the science of valuing. The structure gives CAT a self-learning approach that teaches the basic theories, methodologies and good working practices needed to become a competent jewellery valuer. Some call it valuation science, but essentially it teaches the theory of how

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28 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

to value. And, in fact much that will be taught could almost be applied to valuing anything at all.

The CAT student will learn to understand and appreciate the basic approaches to determine value, the forces that create, diminish and/or influence value, as well as how to seek, find and interpret comparables.

The various components (or elements) of the written valuation will be fully explained, which will include how to write a skilful and succinct descriptive narrative to support the value conclusion determined.

As it stands, CAT is poised to become one of the key pre-requisites to becoming a member of the IRV and will be an important tool in assessing a valuer’s skills. The

step into the industry” says Siobhan. “I really enjoyed learning about the different gemstones, and all the different pieces I wouldn’t usually get to see in store. It really helped to reinforce the knowledge I’d gained in store, and to develop that. I would definitely recommend it to anyone else starting out in the jewellery business. I’m considering doing JET 2 and if it’s anything like JET 1, I’m certainly looking forward to it.”

The education department would like to congratulate Siobhan on her extremely hard work, and wish her continued success in her career and future studies.

For more information on the JET courses telephone 020 7613 4445 (option 1) or visit: www.jewellers-online.org For information on Bransom visit: www.bransom.co.uk

programme is suitable for anyone with a desire to learn best valuation practice and, as the course has no set-time restraints, students can study for CAT while gaining other Institute membership pre-requisites.

With a recent ‘dry-run’ completed and the final tweaks being made, the outlook for CAT is reportedly extremely positive. IRV chairman Jonathan Lambert commented: “Heather MacPhearson has really been the driving force behind the new CAT. She and the team have done a brilliant job so far. It’s great to see that we’ve already got 17 people signed up to take it before it’s even ready for launch and I think it’s going to be really well received by the industry.“ Following recent announcements places are filling up fast, so for more information on CAT and how to book your place, please contact IRV Co-ordinator Sandra Page at: irv@jewellers-online.org

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BJA News |

Craftsmen collaborate to create Queen’s brooch he Queen’s Diamond Jubilee brooch – a celebratory gift from the British jewellery industry to Her Majesty – is now under construction with a number of different companies working together to bring the prize-winning design by the postgraduate student Ivonna Poplanksa to reality. “It’s eyeopening,” says Poplanska. “As a designer, I’m used to operating exclusively within my niche. Seeing every step from my design to the finished product gives me a richer appreciation of our wonderful industry.”

‘The Eternal Dove‘ brooch, which is inspired by a dove in a sceptre made for the coronation of King Charles II, is being overseen for The BJA by Glen Day, business manager at the Birmingham casting house

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Richard Vinten and Ivonna Poplanksa

Weston Beamor. The company has already taken Ivonna’s original hand-painted design and – with the assistance of one of its CAD designers Richard Vinten – turned it into a 3D model which has been used to create rapid prototypes in resin of the frame of the brooch and those components which can be cast using the lost-wax method.

The resin prototype of the frame has now been passed to Ian Hall of the Devon company Lasting Impressions. Hall, who is a specialist mounter, will use this as a template from which to create the actual frame for the brooch by hand using platinum wire. Having the prototype ensures that all elements of the brooch are created absolutely to scale and will fit seamlessly together at the end of the manufacturing process. Hall will also fashion by hand some other parts of the design which will sit alongside the main platinum cast elements. These include highlight sections of the four flowers of the United Kingdom which are a main feature of the brooch and are to be created as appropriate in 18ct Welsh, Scottish, Irish or English gold.

Spring neckwear competition he 2013 BJA Award at The Jewellery Show Birmingham is open for entries.

This annual competition organised by the BJA and sponsored by The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International rewards British firms and individual designer makers producing cutting-edge jewellery to the highest standards.

This year short, statement neckwear designs are very much on trend and the Award is looking for the best of the best in both precious and non-precious materials.

“The judges will be looking for inspiring collars, chokers and chunky neckwear,” explained Lindsey Straughton BJA marketing manager. “Participating finalists will receive great PR prior to the event, catwalk acclaim and post event write ups in relevant press and the winners of the two award categories will also receive £500 towards

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TJSB stand cost in 2014,” she added.

The two categories are: • Precious metal: these can be in any precious metal and can be adorned with patterns, textures and/or real, or faux gemstones, pearls and other materials.

• Fashion pieces in non-precious materials: all materials, plastics, resins, woods, natural fibres and so on are acceptable.

Designs can be plain or decorated and those with real catwalk appeal will score highly.

The criteria for entry is as follows: • Only designer jewellers and jewellery companies registered and operating within the UK may enter. You do NOT have to be exhibiting at The Jewellery Show 2013 or be a member of the BJA to take part.

Once Hall has completed his work the frame and parts will be returned to Weston Beamor for setting by its expert diamond setter Stuart Shearer with over 300 white and coloured diamonds donated by the diamond dealers Windiam. WB will then draw together all elements of the brooch, using its sophisticated laser welding system, to fix them in place before returning it to Hall for him to hand fashion and affix the handmade pin and clasp. Finally the brooch will be hallmarked by Birmingham Assay Office with the Diamond Jubilee mark.

All those involved in the production process are giving their services free and everyone involved is hugely enthusiastic about the project in hand. “Creating jewellery for the Queen – it doesn’t get any better than that, does it?” says Glen Day at Weston Beamor, while Ian Hall who describes himself as passionate about British manufacturing and hallmarking agrees. “We had the bunting out at home and at work this summer and the moment I heard about this project I signed up to be involved,” he says.

The finished brooch will go on show at an invitation-only event at the House of Commons on 29th November and will be presented to Her Majesty shortly thereafter in a specially designed box by Claire Weldon of the Jewellers Box.

•

Entries must be designed by your company in the UK but the products can be produced overseas.

• Pieces do not necessarily need to have been created specifically for this competition however designs marketed prior to May 2012 are not eligible for entry. Designs must be received before 4th December for judging on 6th December.

• The jewellery must be fully functional and have commercial viability in accordance with its category.

• Winners must be prepared to lend their winning products for use in the catwalk shows at The Jewellery Show Birmingham 2013.

• Winners must be prepared to attend a prize-giving event to be held on Monday 4th February, 2013 at The Jewellery Show Birmingham.

To download an entry form visit the home page of: www.bja.org.uk The Voice of the Industry 31

| BJA Feature

Simon says!

One of the fundamental requirements in business is to embrace change, says BJA CEO Simon Rainer.

JA members, be they manufacturers or retailers, who are cognisant of this fact are those that are setting the pace for the rest of the industry to follow. Consequently, manufacturers who are investing in new technology and more often than not changing their business model and retailers who are prepared to make their windows more attractive by investing in new brands, are those that have proving to be the more successful.

And so it is with the BJA, as we now end our association with The Jeweller and move forward to produce a new format for communicating with the membership.

Next year will see the launch of a totally revamped Jewellery in Britain that will be full of BJA news, membership profiles and jewellery industry updates.

Our dynamic growth in membership is due in part to how we have changed our contact with the membership. Now it is our turn to embrace change by using the new technology available to us to communicate on a more regular and dynamic basis.

This year has seen a significant change in the industry. While commodity prices have continued to rise, our designer members have as always been excellent in working with alternative materials and designs to respond to the needs of the changing market place.

This really is the crux of embracing change.

Although we are all experiencing a tough trading climate, those that are succeeding have

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32 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

been prepared to work at looking at alternative ways of conducting business. If you look hard enough you will always see an opportunity.

And so to the BJA where our planning over the last year will see us being involved in several major projects for the benefit of the membership. Expect the culmination of our efforts to be communicated very soon!

In addition to our forward planning, this year the BJA has also had the great enjoyment of celebrating its 125th anniversary.

In 1887, the BJA defined its aims and objectives – which are still refreshingly relevant today – as follows: • To promote art and technical education • To secure uniformity of action in cases of failure • To watch legislation affecting the Trade • To secure prosecution of thieves and receivers • To assist in the development of foreign and colonial trade • To seek through Parliament or other competent authority the removal of all restrictions upon, or the support of all measures for the development of trade While at the time of writing we still have to experience our celebratory House of Commons reception, BJA member awards ceremony and presentation of The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Brooch, 2012 represents perhaps one of our busiest ever years.

Owing to the constraints of space let me share with you just a few of our highlights:

•

Introduction of The Gold Standard acting as a voluntary code to help traders buy gold and jewellery over the counter • Obtaining funding to provide business development training for BJA members • Liaison with central government to advise on potential changes to the Kimberley Process – particularly to support the inclusion of new human rights protocols.

• Increased work with CIBJO (The World Jewellery Confederation), including security initiatives, ethics and corporate social responsibility.

• Production of a commemorative 125th video which celebrated BJA members’ work over the years and supported by two special edition booklets.

• Work with Asian jewellers to improve security protocols and trading standards awareness • Improved and additional services negotiated on behalf of the membership, including free access to the annual Mintel Report • Introduction of members’ regional forums (with a full monthly programme already planned for 2013) • Jewellery skills apprenticeship programme – taking the very successful Holts Academy accredited model which will be shortly launched in the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter and then rolled out nationally • Introduction of the National Skills Academy for Jewellery – to provide education and training • Formation of the UK Watch committee – working to effect positive change for UK brand owners and distributors One of the BJA’s key objectives is to identify and provide added value to the membership. The need for change has been realised, discussed and is being acted upon.

2013 promises to be an exceptional year!

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| BJA Feature

Every vote counts The companies shortlisted in the BJA’s 125th Anniversary Awards have been announced and members of the industry are being asked to vote for those they feel most deserve to win these special accolades. Make sure you have your say. he Awards cover five categories (see

Voting will close on 26th November and

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Members’ Only section of the Association’s

below) but an additional award will be

website – www.bja.org.uk – the ‘BJA

the winners will be announced at The

made to the individual who has made

Designer of the Year’ Award, the ‘BJA

Benevolent Society Ball to be staged at the

the greatest personal contribution to the

Retailer of the Year’ and ‘BJA Supplier of the

Clarion Suite in Birmingham on the evening

work of the BJA and the industry at large in

Year’ are to be decided by a wider audience

of 6th December, 2012.

recent years.

with members of the trade and the general

Tickets to this event and a great Christmas

public also having the chance to vote on the

party cost £60 each and are available from

home page of the same website.

Gill Price on 0121 237 1138.

While two winners will be chosen solely by members of the BJA voting in the

BJA Designer of the Year

Sponsored by Pressman Mastermelts

statement jewellery. Her emphasis is always on buying and employing locally and keeping her business at the heart of the city she has made her home.

interesting projects, from commemorative brooches for individuals to an exclusive range for John Lewis that will be launched later this year. With wide appeal to all age groups and a keen commercial eye, we are very proud to see the popularity of our jewellery as a British brand and to have the recognition that we have today,” she says.

Linda Macdonald . . . . .

Jessica Flinn

Jessica Flinn . . . . . . . .

One of this year’s ‘Hot One Hundred’, the Sheffield designer Jessica Flinn is a rising star. A graduate of Sheffield Hallam University, she launched ‘Jessica Flinn Designs’ a year ago. Since then she has achieved a major deal with Argos, where her work is sold at 750 stores nationwide and via Argos TV. Some 30 independent outlets also stock her designs. This autumn sees the launch of two new collections, ‘Rare by Jessica’ and ‘Little Flinn’ – the latter created specifically for the young and young at heart. Jessica’s work combines the traditions of Sheffield’s historic steel industry with the latest design technology, producing intricately etched patterns to create dramatic

34 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Inspired by romance, Scottish designer Linda Macdonald has become one of the leading UK jewellery designers. Her company supplies many independent retailers across Britain and is a popular supplier to 25 John Lewis stores and its online shop. With more large multiples interested in carrying her work Linda is looking to grow the company further and to begin an export drive.

“Delivering a personal touch is very important to us. We have been asked to do many

Alexander Davis

Alexander Davis . . . . . .

Linda Macdonald

Alexander Davis is one of the most innovative and versatile jewellers in the UK. His work ranges from his ‘DNA pendant’, incorporating the wearer’s DNA, and his ‘Quark Super-Brooch’, based on explosions in the Large Hadron Collider, through to his ‘Limelight Ring’, depicting spotlights on the red carpets of the ’20s and ’30s. His pieces include vibrant colour and bold shapes and have a decadent sense of quality, using sumptuous gemstones. He has three main

BJA Feature | collections: ‘Dendritic’, ‘Dark Romance’ and ‘Deadly Nightshade’ as well as many bespoke pieces.

Davis recently launched the ‘Typhoon Palace’ range with Amber Atherton from MyFlashTrash. These pieces, based on temples in the jungle guarded by baboons, helped to bring ear cuffs back to the forefront of jewellery fashion. A dedicated craftsman Davis works from his boutique in Mayfair. He also makes jewellery for other jewellers and is a CAD consultant to the industry.

Babette Wasserman . . . .

Babette Wasserman’s luxurious sterling silver designs ooze individuality and style.

This year the company increased its sales by 20 per cent gaining 50 new clients in the

Supplier of the Year Bransom . . . . . . . . . . .

Bransom has been working with the jewellery trade for over 30 years and currently offers software and support to some 2,000 retail outlets countrywide which use its sophisticated EPOS tills. Support is available seven days a week and Bransom’s specialist knowledge and products ensure that retailers using its systems can generate customer loyalty and drive revenue. Recent product introductions include: a multi-site gift card module, live sales analyser, bsmart-links (these pass information from the supplier to the retailer), insurance at the point of sale and interest free credit with Pay4Later.

Customers also benefit from automated text and email reminders on orders, repairs, service and promotion. Add-on services include the managing of special orders, offering insurance and enabling retailers to upsell using integrated consumer finance or interest free credit.

Gecko . . . . . . . . .

Jewellery supplier Gecko offers customers a next-day delivery promise, 95 per cent+ order fulfilment, supermarket-style barcode scanning for accuracy, and a pledge to answer calls within three rings. This company embraces change

Babette Wasserman

Sponsored by NTR Metals

and actively looks for ways to help its customers. Last year it introduced 1,500 new lines, including lighter-weight and silver-plated jewellery to combat high metal prices. It also introduced extended credit and a cash-back scheme. Gecko factories are inspected for compliance with the Ethical Trading Initiative. Last year it sold four million items, yet its returns department has only one part-time employee. Gecko customers enjoy a wide range of greatselling, high-quality products supported by helpful marketing materials.

JewelCast . . . . . . . . . .

The Birmingham casting house JewelCast has been suggested by a customer who writes: Tresor Paris

UK, including a concession in Harrods.

Harvey Nichols also selected it to design a limited edition collection of characteristically English cufflinks, while Churches asked it to create a cufflink and jewellery collection for its stores worldwide. The company is expanding its international client base and is sold in leading department stores worldwide, including the Paris Gallery in Qatar, Bloomingdales USA and Isetan in Japan.

It was nominated as UKJA ‘Jewellery Brand of the Year’ in 2010, 2011 and 2012 and in 2012 was awarded The Company of Master Jewellers ‘Best Jewellery Collection’ and ‘Best Designer’ Awards. It was also ‘Editors Choice’ at IJL and gained the Houlden Group’s ‘Designs of Excellence’ award. It has enjoyed extensive press coverage and is worn by a celebrity clientele.

“From my first interaction with JewelCast they have stood head and shoulders over most. Not only in their faultless customer service, prompt and helpful communication, constant achievement of deadlines, demonstrated initiative with the focus on the customer, and prioritising work for me when I have a urgent timeframes, but also in their positive and friendly manner which is quite simply beyond expectation and means that every interaction with every single person on the JewelCast team is a pleasure. They really are a company that does that little bit extra and goes that little bit further to help you.”

Tresor Paris . . . . . . . . .

The global jewellery company Tresor Paris is a proficient and reputable supplier to the jewellery industry, well known for its personable and efficient standards of service, offering a no quibble one-year warranty on all pieces. Regional agents regularly visit stockists, giving support and guidance and introducing new collections, while regional visual merchandisers help ensure perfect showcasing. Tresor’s in-house customer services team and online ordering facility are always available. All stockists enjoy the support of a marketing team, who offer POS, graphics, brochures and a house magazine. The Tresor Paris bus is available for all stockists to drive sales to their specific stores.

The Voice of the Industry 35

| BJA Feature

BJA Retailer of the Year Johnny Rocket . . . . . . .

Johnny Rocket’s retail gallery in London showcases 45 of Britain's finest emerging jewellery talents. The names they have showcased read like a ‘Who’s Who’ of successful designers – Hannah Martin, Alexander Davis, Missoma, Tomasz Donocik, William Cheshire, Tatty Devine, Fei Leu, Tina Lilienthal, and many more had their first exposure in the gallery. All have gone on to win awards and to gain commercial success.

Johnny and Niall nurture and mentor their designers in an encouraging and realistic manner. Ask any of the many fabulous talents that have passed through their doors and you will hear nothing but praise. The shop’s employees are jewellery literate and passionate about the jewels on show while the chaps reinforce their presence in the trade by judging the Goldsmiths’ awards, UK Jewellery Awards, serving on the British Hallmarking Council and sharing their knowledge freely and willingly with customers and designers alike.

Sponsored by Tresor Paris

customer base in the past five years and a second retail boutique is in the pipeline.

In May this year Flawless was chosen over 20 other jewellers in the borough of Bromley to showcase its work in an exhibition for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations and the owners were presented to Her Majesty, thus cementing the businesses’ reputation as an established name in successful independent jewellery retailing.

Joshua James

Tomassa . . . . . . . . . . .

Flawless Jewellery . . . . .

Specialising in engagement and wedding rings, and handmade commissions, Flawless Jewellery is a family-run jewellers based in Chislehurst, Kent. With more than 20 years experience, the company prides itself on customer service, the quality of its work at affordable prices and everything it sells being handmade in-house. It has seen a five fold increase in its turnover and

Member of the Year Sarah Jordan . . . . . . . .

The designer Sarah Jordan, who is celebrating 25 years in business, is a great believer in and promoter of British design. As a member of the BJA’s national committee she has done much to bring members together and has also collaborated in writing the design brief for The Queen’s Brooch Competition which she promoted widely. In 2012 Sarah was a UKJA finalist, a Lonmin DIA winner and a PGI tri-set winner. Her stockists have increased by 15 per cent and she is now an official supplier to both the

36 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

the products its customers want. Its three sites: joshuajamesjewellery.co.uk, jjwedding rings.co.uk, and watchdepot.co.uk, sell a vast and increasing range of brands, with the emphasis on remaining ahead of current trends. The business has grown by 100 per cent every quarter since it launched and 130 per cent in the last year. Set up in June 2009, Joshua James now boasts a turnover of around £3.5 million with a projected growth of 106 per cent. It believes it has found a unique hybrid traditional/online model for success which it puts down to determination and passion for what it does.

This is a business that has a firm focus and remains committed to achieving its goals.

Joshua James . . . . . . . .

This year has seen the ‘big plan’ for Joshua James Jewellery coming together. In a short time the company has become a leading jewellery e-tailer with a showcase boutique store, three unique sites for specific target audiences, and a self-contained distribution centre, housing a team geared to delivering

Sponsored by Digital Office

Tomassa is a new luxury e-commerce jewellery house with a passion for beautiful objects, stylish presentation and impeccable service. As a brand Tomassa aims to combine its passion with a pioneering attitude. www.tomassa.com provides an experience that is lavish, exuberant and individual and the team is working hard to certify the website as the ultimate online destination for the modern jewellery buyer. Since launching in June 2012, Tomassa.com has achieved traction nationally and internationally, with customers spending on average more than £500 per transaction.

Tomassa has had extensive press coverage and has attracted attention from key influencers in the fashion world. Sarah Harris, Fashion Features Editor of Vogue UK has endorsed the company and will be featuring its designs in her November issue.

The company enjoys a celebrity following.

Sarah Jordan

Houlden Group and the CMJ. Recent investment in an eco-friendly studio, new branding, POS materials and a new website look set to grow her business further. She is also an avid fundraiser and charity supporter.

Birmingham Assay Office . . . . . . . .

BAO has done much during 2012 to promote the BJA in its activities. Its chairman Kay Alexander attended the BJA’s designer showcase exhibition in Beijing where BAO

The Voice of the Industry 37

BJA Feature | Member of the Year (cont.) loaned its fabulous Warwick Vase. Another loan of silverware was made to the BJA’s 125th anniversary exhibition. The organisations worked closely on a range of initiatives surrounding the regulation of scrap gold particularly for the Asian market. Assay Master Michael Allchin spoke about the BJA at the BATF GM in May and will speak again at the 125th Anniversary event at the House of Commons in November. BAO also works hard for the industry charity and for global jewellery bodies worldwide.

Etherial . . . . . . . . . . .

The Cypriot jewellery producer Etherial creates a range of art jewellery designed and made to the highest levels of craftsmanship and has celebrity clients worldwide. The company is the first jewellery producer in Cyprus to be accepted for BJA membership which has led to a great deal of favourable

Industry Contributor Birmingham Assay Office . . . . . . . .

Integrity, innovation, significant investment in high-tech equipment and experienced staff combine to create a centre of independent specialist expertise at the BAO. This expertise is used to offer relevant services, to champion high quality standards and contribute to the good reputation of the industry. BAO shares its expertise widely and works closely with other industry organisations. It offers focused training and does much to raise professional Harriet Kelsall

European publicity including TV and newspaper interviews and the publication by the Cyprus Government Post Office of a limited number of collectable stamps featuring the company’s logo. Etherial’s founder says it is his conviction that BJA membership offers an opportunity for professional growth and moreover guarantees, through the Association’s long-standing presence and expertise, the appreciation and prestige of any devoted follower.

Fei Lui

Fei Lui . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fei Lui is a prize winning jewellery designer born in China and trained in Birmingham who runs successful jewellery businesses in both England and Beijing. This year Lui has put his knowledge of China at the disposal of others in the UK industry and was instrumental in pioneering – in conjunction with the BJA and its export department and with funding from UKTI – a mutually beneficial scheme for British design and Chinese retail. The work of eight UK

Sponsored by Windiam Diamonds

standards serving on bodies such as CIBJO and promoting a new scrap Gold Standard.

As a member of the RJC it has strong ethical credentials, facilitating the launch of Fairtrade Gold and staging the ‘Great Debate’ at IJL. It is also a key driver and financial supporter of the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter Development Trust.

Fei Lui . . . . . . . . . . . .

In addition to his work with British designers in China (see Member of the Year above) Lui has continued to expand his silver, gold and platinum collections and to build his business. He has recently been appointed as a design consultant to the Platinum Guild International in China.

Harriet Kelsall . . . . . . .

Harriet Kelsall has been at the forefront of the ethical drive in the jewellery industry for the past 10 years. In 2011 she was one of the first people to launch certified Fairtrade gold and her company was the first UK independent to achieve full RJC certification, making it the first in the world to achieve both these feats. Her innovative ‘bespoke

jewellery designers was taken to the luxury department store ‘Shin Kong Place’ in Beijing to be showcased and sold in Lui’s in-store concession there, thus opening the door to a new consumer base for the British jewellery industry. jewellery for the High Street’ concept store in Cambridge won her a UK Jewellery Award in 2011. Kelsall was named ‘Everywoman in Retail Woman of the Year 2011’ for her work in encouraging women in retail careers. She mentors young entrepreneurs at the Peter Jones Academy and Doug Richard's School for Creative Start-ups. She also champions traditional hand-making/drawing skills alongside modern CAD techniques and in 2012 launched a ‘bespoke jewellery design’ competition. Her jewellery workshop runs an apprentice scheme.

Malca-Amit . . . . . . . . .

Malca-Amit UK Ltd offers discounted shipping and security services to all BJA members. It also provides advice on customs clearance, international trade shows, secure shipping and general security issues. With offices in 31 countries and over 40 years of industry experience, Malca-Amit is committed to an unsurpassed level of customer service, delivering peace of mind while its customers’ precious cargo is in transit. In 2012 MalcaAmit experienced its best year to date launching its special delivery service ‘MA Express’ via FedEx. This includes full liability on every shipment below $50,000 and takes advantage of the massive FedEx network and its speedy response tracking service.

The Voice of the Industry 39

Jeweller picks... the

Should you need last minute inspiration for Christmas gift ideas, any of the pieces here should pass muster… failing that, think ahead to Valentine’s Day (and not a heart in sight!).

CROW’S NEST

As 2013 will be the Chinese Year of the Snake why not be ready for it with Crow’s Nest’s ‘Jungle Fever’ snake ring? Daniel Belevich’s diamond-encrusted rhodiumdipped, white gold ring is formed from two snakes that twist around the wearer’s finger, their fangs wrapped around a blue topaz. www.crowsnestjewels.com

BABETTE WASSERMAN

DIDI

Falling effortlessly into this season’s fashion trend for opulent, rich colours is Babette Wasserman’s ring collection with it’s Baroque overtones. The Glitter Starlight rings, encrusted with Swarovski crystals and CZ stones are a perfect example. www.babbette-wasserman.com

Rough and Ready is the new gemstone Spring/Summer 2013 collection by Miamibased jewellery designer Didi Colley. This aquamarine nugget ring in vermeil is typical of the line that has been inspired by the colours of America’s eastern coast – lemon quartz, rose quartz, green amethyst, chrysophrase and lapis also feature. www.didicolley.com

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

From the new Holiday 2012 comes this new take on the ‘boyfriend’ style, the Trompe Henry – the name referring to the optical illusion created by detailing that appears to be 3D. The indexes, exposed stitching and case accents all appear as if they’ve been hand drawn with a pen. www.fossil.co.uk

LILY BLANCHE

Edinburgh-based Lily Blanche, which specialises in creating modern heirlooms, in silver or gold vermeil, has launched the Magical Collection of charm necklaces and bracelets, including this little pumpkin carriage (great for anyone looking for Prince Charming). Also marking moments in life are ‘love’ apples that open to reveal a tiny ring, ‘lucky’ oysters with a pearl inside and windmills for peace. www.lilyblanche.com

TATTY DEVINE

Perfect for this season’s gothic trend is Tatty Devine’s darkly glamorous 1920s style collection using teardrop-shaped haematite mirror gems. As well as this multi-strand necklace the line includes earrings, a collar-style necklace, head piece and ring. www.tattydevine.com

HOT DIAMONDS

These new Diamond Life bracelets made from Swarovski Elements’ crystal pearl have been designed to carry the new Diamond Moment charms in sterling silver. Each featuring a diamond, the charms, decorated with 18ct rose or yellow gold vermeil, include designs such as a 21st birthday key, a baby pin and a champagne cork. www.hotdiamonds.co.uk

FABEL DESIGN

This Leopard ring is from the new collection of cocktail rings created by London-based jewellery designer Sophie Chandler.

Available in three finishes – rose or yellow gold plate on brass or black rhodium on silver, it features eyes made from coloured crystals. Other styles in the collection include a Pyramid ring and Bamboo Horn ring. www.fabeldesign.com

CITIZEN

Introducing Citizen’s new Proximity watch which, through technological advances, allows the wearer to ‘stay connected’ through an iPhone 4s/5. Downloading the watch’s application activates the automatic date and time synchronisation features, which means the watch is kept to perfect time, no matter how often it moves to a different time zone. It can also alert the wearer to incoming emails and calls. Oh, and it’s also fuelled by light – any light. www.citizenwatch.co.uk

LAPPONIA

‘The Art of You’ is a new gold collection launched by Lapponia, with a new set being introduced every Autumn, each designed by a different artist. This bracelet is from the Amore collection created by Bjorn Weckstrom and features a blend of smooth and textured warm gold. UK sales agent Charles Vickers. Tel: 07836 607 238

Launched earlier this year, Erica Illingworth’s fine jewellery collection (which follows the children’s Molly B brand) comprises ultra feminine pieces in sterling silver and gold, adorned with pearls, diamonds and gemstones. The Love Knot collection, which includes this tassel necklace and also includes diamond set earrings, is also available in gold. www.mollybcouture.com

JUICY COUTURE

A real marriage of glamour and function, the new Marianne Luxe ring-watch by fashion brand Juicy Couture features four Swarovski baguette crystals marking 12 noon, three, six and nine, as well as 64 crystals around the dial. The band is made of adjustable stretch stainless steel.

Tel: 01428 664 700

ALLUMER

What began a few years back with simple little coloured bells on delicate ballchains has moved several paces on to include this rather fabulous Match Royale necklace created in yellow gold and featuring a diamond and a gemstone tip. It also comes in silver, gold plate and rhodium plate. www.allumer.co.uk

Designed specifically for women, the Fairlawn collection is the latest model from Bulova’s Precisionist range. A simple design aesthetic is combined with a classic look that features mother of pearl dials and blue metallic hands. It is available with or without hand set diamonds. www.bulova.com

FIROUZEH

MOLLY B COUTURE

BULOVA

Created from 18ct gold and utilising a variety of gemstones including turquoise, lapis and black onyx, Touran Reddaway’s pieces have an antique – even ancient – feel about them (Iranian and Byzantine culture provides inspiration). This season the mood – in tune with catwalk trends – has a romantic, folksy style. www.firouzeh.co.uk

Ethical Jeweller |

Gemstones – the forgotten discussion They may be timelessly beautiful, but there is also a dark side to coloured stones. Greg Valerio explains why this element of our industry has the power to scandalise as well as enrich us. uring last year’s ethical roundtable, hosted by the NAG and BJA, we failed to fulfil all of our objectives. Gold and diamonds took up all our time and despite our best intentions, sadly we ran out of time to look at the gemstone sector. They have always been the element within the trade that I love the best as they bring colour, versatility, dynamism and pure fun to the product.

The dark side however is still emerging.

Unlike their more prestigious cousins gold and diamonds, gemstones have not received the kind of ethical attention that they should have. The characteristics of the source of the gemstone supply chain are very different from those of other jewellery materials. The artisanal small-scale miners which dominate the coloured gemstones industry, with over 70 per cent of the material used by jewellers coming from this source. As has been outlined many times over the years in this ethical column, the small-scale miner is driven by the politics of daily bread (poverty) to earn a living and as such is the most vulnerable to exploitation, human rights abuses, violence and corruption. Also the complexity of the supply chain means it is almost impossible to trace stones back to the mine or community of origin.

Researching the dominant issues in the gemstone industry one turns up a list of the most unsavoury practices and issues, many of which I have witnessed first hand over the last 15 years: • child and indentured (slave) labour • enforced removals of indigenous peoples from ancestral lands • disreputable traders • deforestation and desertification • water pollution • conflicts with agriculturalists • extra-judicial killings • land grabs

D

• • •

health and safety of mine shafts political corruption lack of transparency and traceability in the supply chain Yet, silently, some of the most dynamic and entrepreneurial activity has begun to deliver a solution to some of the above: Natures Geometry has been demonstrating that the mining of Brazilian golden rutile quartz not only delivers stunning gemstones but it can also provide safe employment, an increased agricultural yield, reforestation and other associated businesses. www.naturesgeometry.com Ruby Fair has worked in Tanzania for over five years, and with its integrated approach to community relations, environmental management, water management and fair prices, it has demonstrated that you can successfully work as a business, alongside local communities and create a virtuous circle of well-being. It offers ruby, tanzanite, spinel and sapphire. www.rubyfair.com Columbia Gemhouse based in the USA has been pioneering direct relationships with gemstone miners since 1977. Offering a wide variety of gemstones to the market, including specials cuts it has a fully audited cutting and polishing house and has been tireless in the commitment to championing the improvements needed with small-scale gem miners. www.columbiagemhouse.com The Fairgems Process is a recent initiative coming from France. It, like all actors in our industry who espouse ethical concerns, has developed a traceability system that gives mine to market transparency. The Fairgems Process is currently being implemented in Sri Lanka and certifies the quality of coloured gemstones as well as the assurance that production meets sustainable development standards. www.fairgemsprocess.com

Illegal gemstone mining in Sri Lanka

Erongo Gems is a project based in the Erongo region of Namibia. Working with community-based small scale miners it is not only delivering good quality beryl, aquamarine, tourmaline and topaz rough to the market, it is investing in the training of grading, cutting and polishing for local people to create a legacy for Namibians. www.erongo.50megs.com These are just five businesses or projects that tick a number of crucial boxes when it comes to seeking out ethical supply chains for our jewellery. What is important about them all is that they offer transparency and traceability in their supply chains. Equally they all give a balance between the need for social transformation and environmental management. The beauty of these projects is they are also very relational – something that is very difficult to achieve with big companies. Small can be beautiful when it comes to gemstone mining if you blend the right ingredients together.

So for jewellers looking to improve their ethical performance, here are five initiatives worth exploring and building a relationship with. And do let us know how you get on.

As we seek to develop quantitative ethical improvements in our industry sharing information and stories of good practice help us all. The ethics working group of the NAG and BJA want to hear from any jeweller who is taking steps in developing supply chains that are mine to market traceable in gemstones. We need to understand the challenges faced in traceable gemstones and also build up a picture of how these challenges can be overcome.

Greg Valerio www.gregvalerio.com Founder of Fair Jewellery Action www.fairjewelry.org

The Voice of the Industry 43

| Feature

C W Sellors

Elements Gold

by Gecko

Not only bright and beautiful, but fashionable, unique and offering a point of difference and profit-boosting potential – Belinda Morris has no trouble putting the case for coloured stones. nless you are of the utterly pared down/ minimalist/monochrome persuasion it’s hard not to appreciate the allure and sheer beauty of coloured stones. Whether it’s one perfect Burmese ruby or a cluster of tonally harmonious gemstones, their aesthetic qualities are obvious. Some will love them more than others of course, but c’est la vie.

However, for one reason or another, their value – to the manufacturer, designer maker, jeweller and consumer – has reached a different level in recent times. They’re becoming more popular and, interestingly, more important. The double-edged sword that is the internet – and the educated public it has spawned – may impact on the diamond market, but as yet coloured stones have not come under such scrutiny.

U

London Road

44 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Feature | “Retailers and designers [of gemstone pieces] will not get customers coming into their shop telling them how much they want to pay for certain goods off a price list, because there isn’t one!” says Richard Haruni of thegembank.com. “Coloured stones are very different from diamonds, as there is no real pricing or grading structure – which makes dealing in them very interesting and quite instinctive,” adds Ed Adams of fine jewellery manufacturers EW Adams.

Haruni makes the point that because each stone is “pretty much unique and cannot directly be compared to another” the potential for designers, retailers and manufacturers to make more profit is much greater when compared to selling a white diamond. “Coloured stones offer the customer a unique and individual product, which can be dressed up or down. They just might need to work a little harder to sell them,” he adds.

“The great thing about gemstones is that the lay person can nearly always spot the difference between a fine coloured stone and a more commercial one. They speak for themselves and that makes selling them so much easier, as the end customer will fall in love with a gem for the same reasons we do!” adds Adams Maria Frantzi

German gem dealer Constantin Wild also points to the exclusive nature of gems to explain their current popularity. “Jewellery lovers know that they’re very rare and as the sources are not endless (some mines have carried to the end already) so coloured stones are more and more interesting as a kind of investment,” he explains. “People are looking for investment pieces,” adds Pia Tonna of Gemfields. “The luxury fine jewellers in the key destinations around the world, like Old Bond Street in London, have their windows full of colour, which is testament to the current tastes of luxury consumers.”

Rodgers & Rodgers Having said that, investing in coloured stones is a risky business, in the view of Peter Grumitt of gemstone dealer Apsara.

“True investment pieces are limited to very fine quality untreated stones at the top end of the market,” he says. “My advice to someone wishing to invest in jewellery would be to buy a piece you like and want to wear. If the value increases you have an added bonus.”

Wise words, particularly given the costs involved. “Prices are rising quite dramatically

“Quality independent jewellers are always keen to set themselves apart from multiples, and stocking fine and rare gem stones really helps them achieve this”

for some coloured stones like tourmalines,” Grumitt explains. “Demand for these stones in the Asian markets has had a massive effect on prices.” Haruni concurs with this: “The price for very fine gemstones in any category is going through the roof right now,” he says. “This is principally fuelled by Chinese buyers who want the biggest and best of everything… and the rest of the world cannot keep up with price hikes. This can be problematic when selling stones and replacing them.”

Look on the bright side though, as Adams is doing: “Fine quality coloured stones,

especially in larger sizes, are definitely increasing in price right now. Demand on supply will, I am sure, make fine coloured gems a very good long term investment.

With this in mind we are buying more of them than ever before,” he says. “Quality independent jewellers are always keen to set themselves apart from multiples, and stocking fine and rare gem stones really helps them achieve this. Colours always look great value compared to diamonds, and in many cases are much rarer. Also, with margins so tight on all diamond pieces, colour stones offer the retailer a much better margin,” he adds.

Sophie Harley

“A combination of fierce competition and ever-increasing diamond prices is creating more interest in coloured stones,” says Ariel Tivon of Tivon Fine Jewellery. “Consumers would rather buy exclusive and special designs without it breaking the bank permanently – often the case with diamond jewellery today.”

Robert Coin also cites the high price of gold and the “search for something new and special” for retailer awareness of coloured stone jewellery – “and it’s possible to get a very good quality and interesting stone, even if it’s not emerald or ruby,” he says.

Andrew Geoghan

The Voice of the Industry 45

| Feature It’s also about creating a USP says Dessy Tslova of Deci London: “Using coloured stones and finding new stones and cuts to differentiate themselves from their competitors has been the answer for many retailers,” she says. “And that in itself has been great as it’s brought to the forefront stones that until recently were largely left forgotten, unnoticed and unloved by jewellers and retailers alike.”

Pomegranate

Favourites So what are people buying? What are the stones of the moment? Some dealers and designers can be as fickle as the jewellerybuying public on this subjective topic, while others have their favourites. Wild has been smitten with the imperial topaz ever since his first visit to Brazil in 1986 (“fantastic reddishgold hues and that really special sparkle”); Grummitt’s eye has been caught by the “unique and beautiful” Mali garnet (ranging from yellow through to brownish-green and a rare chrome green); Adams loves black opals from Lightening Ridge, Australia (“all totally unique and really quite rare”) and “cannot resist a top quality, clean Colombian emerald – also quite rare”, and designer Ornella Iannuzzi is renowned for her use of opals (“for their magical change of colours”) although she also loves the deep greens of emeralds and tsavorites.

Designer Maria Frantzi, who is pretty sure she has never designed any piece of jewellery without incorporating a gemstone, has, she says, a special place in her heart for beryls, as well as labradorite (“an excellent stone for fractal pattern designs”). Suzanne Adams, creative director of London Road loves the play of colour and sparkle found in the labradorite beads she is using for their new Bloomsbury Tassel necklaces.

Tomasz Donocik

46 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

“The great thing about gemstones is that the lay person can nearly always spot the difference between a fine coloured stone and a more commercial one.”

Elisabeth Paradon, designer and owner of Italian bead-rich jewellery brand Ziio, favours chrysoprase above all others for “the deepness of intense green colour – unique and unmistakable”.

Tivon highlights rubelite tourmalines: “in the right shade and quality these stones have the most unbelievable richness – much like fine wines,” he says. While designer Milly Swire is also smitten with tourmalines, not only for “their intensity of colour, but also for how amazing they look in cabouchons and rough forms”.

“Initially I played it safe with rubies and sapphires, but of late I have gone crazy with as many delicious colours as possible,” says Andrew Geoghegan, a fairly recent convert to gemstones. “I wouldn’t say I have a favourite colour, it’s more that I fall for depths of colours in a certain range, such as cherry red fire opals or intensely orange mandarin garnets.” Meanwhile Sarah Ho of Sho Jewellery is drawn to anything pink – morganite, rhodolite and conch pearls all feature in her Sarah Ho Couture pieces.

Tslova, while declaring that all coloured stones are equal favourites “as they all have their own characteristics and beauty” will admit to loving carved stones a little more than all others. “The intricate carvings layered on top of the visible natural inclusions and combined with the natural colour of the stone makes them unique and much more special too me,” she says.

Unsurprisingly some designers are moved by particular stones as and when they come across them, while others can favour particular gems if they suit a fashion moment.

Sushilla Done is typically capricious. “My favourites vary – it could be pink tourmaline or watery green aquamarine,” she explains, “or my latest love which is astrophyllite which now features in the Tallulah collection and I was excited to come across a natural pale blue drusy on my last trip to India. “The random colours and variety of these stones are what really makes them stunning to use.”

Mounir

Rather than one particular stone, Dan Dower of Dower & Hall is inspired by the subtleties of colour within a wide range of gemstones, that allow him to build up the visual compositions that he loves – with focal stones as well as highlights and lowlights.

Sophie Harley, who began designing using coloured enamels, has more recently developed an interest in stones. “I’m really into clashing colours – pinks and greens together with purples, yellow and orange,” she explains. Designer Lestie Lee also loves

| Feature Gemstones – a retrospective A popular workshop at this year’s IRV Conference was given by gemstone expert Tracy Jukes of E-Jewel. Her 25 year timeline outlined events and factors that influenced gemstone value over the years. Here’s a summary: 1987 Specialist stones like Thai ruby, padparadscha sapphire and Australian sapphire hold their price or rise. The latter is £125 per ct then (the same today) 1989 Paraiba tourmaline from Brazil commercially exploited – first on the market, a ‘funny’ colour, is relatively cheap 1990 New leadership in Burma sees Bangkok market awash with Burmese ruby.

Result is the death of Thai ruby – seen as inferior. Production of tanzanite increases massively, mining is controlled and prices fall 1991 Rise of Madagascan tanzanite, looking virtually the same as Kenyan, although very slightly bluer 1992 Tuscon – once ‘trade-only’ show but now ‘no control and no disclosure of treatments – so buyer beware’ 1994 Brazilian emerald – totally different look (and price) to Colombian (whose supply is erratic) 1997 Fred Ward (Blue Planet Gems) court case in US, (sale of resin-filled emerald) causes 70% drop in emerald price; two years before recovery 1998 Madagascan Sapphire discovered – their beauty commands a premium.

US public discovers irradiation of blue topaz, so imports into US halted for a time. Coating more popular and (variously coloured) stones cheaper 1999 PermaSafe enhancement of Colombian emeralds launches: improved clarity, stronger, cheaper emeralds 2001 9/11. Alleged funding connection between al Qaeda and tanzanite floods US market with unwanted cheap stones. Bulk diffusion heat treatment to corundum introduced in Thailand to achieve padparadscha orange colour 2002 Tanzanite reprieve – named December birthstone to persuade Americans to trust/love it again 2003 First US embargo on Burmese rubies 2004 Lead glass-filled ruby first identified. Mozambique blue tourmaline appears (Brazilian dealers buy Mozambique rough and cut in Brazil to call it Brazilian).

Gems TV launches 2005 Lead glass ruby floods the market 2006 Underground mining begins at Itabera, Brazil – huge pocket of emeralds found.

Prices rise to £750 per ct.

2007 Ruby discovered in Winza, Tanzania – colour and clarity superb, prices extremely high. Rare, beautiful neon pink-red spinel found at Mahenge, Tanzania 2008 US amends/reinforces ban on Burmese ruby and jade – prices rise.

Lavender spinel found in Vietnam. Coated tanzanite hits market 2009 Kenyan colour change garnet discovered (aka alexandrite). Mozambique ruby from Montepuez mine arrives; quality poor so commands no premium.

Suggestion of heated spinel on market. Gemmologist Campbell Bridges (discoverer of tsavorite) murdered.

2010 Bangkok riots halt production of ruby and sapphire. Border between Thailand and Burma closes. Prices rise. Daily Mail feature on ‘blood rubies’. Brazilian emerald from Rochas appears – half price of Colombian.

2011 Tucson sees Ethiopean opal – cheaper than Australian. Pink tourmaline at all-time high due to Chinese market. Nomenclature for padparadscha sapphire standardised (colour rather than geographical origin important). Untreated yellow sapphire difficult to find.

2012 Huge price rise in Burmese ruby. Tanzania government introduces tanzanite certification to curb smuggling Future Fine quality coloured stones running out. Synthetics and simulants are options and there is less resistance to this at lower end of the market.

48 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Domino

unusual colour matches and contrasts and has a penchant for stones which naturally change colour, such as alexandrite and colour-change sapphire.

Sometimes though, head must rule heart in these matters. Taking, perhaps, a more pragmatic view, Rachel Galley recognises that her retail customers sometimes prefer to “buy safe” and will choose stones that consumers will generally find more unrestricting – such as black onyx. But this fits into her own preference for “dark and mysterious” stones like smoky quartz. The jade in her new ‘Venom’ range (a collaboration with interior designer Meg Matthews) is a bright bold exception this rule.

“I use coloured stones to enhance the design,” says Tomasz Donocik. “I love big vibrant gemstones – they have a character of their own and I tend to allow them to dictate the design to an extent. The ‘Phoenix Ring’ has a mandarin garnet and works perfectly to represent the bird of fire.” Like Galley, Donocik is finding that many jewellery retailers, while stocking a range of colours, are currently choosing subtle dark tones – labradorite and hematite for instance.

Sushilla

Elements Gold presents a stylish combination of best selling and vibrant new designs with the majority of SRP’s ranging from £50 to £400.

To make an appointment or place an order call us on 01376 532000 or email us at sales@geckojewellery.com T: 01376 532 000 F: 01376 532 001 E: sales@geckojewellery.com

Rare coloured gemstones For over five millennia the talismanic emerald has been sought after for its seductive beauty and treasured as an emblem of power and a symbol of hope. Today, emeralds are all the more precious when sourced from Gemfields, pioneers in the ethical and environmentallyresponsible mining of coloured gemstones.

Josephine wears Jooal Zambian Emerald Jewellery. For more information about our emeralds please contact us on +44 (0)20 7518 3400 or visit www.gemfields.co.uk

Image courtesy of the Goldsmiths' Company in association with Country & Town House magazine

Feature | Ornella Ianuzzi

Tivon

Something out of the ordinary The sourcing of gems, whether via visiting dealers or through travel, can obviously throw up a few new or unusual stones.

“We have some very striking stones such as Super Seven which is made up of amethyst, clear quartz, smoky quartz, cacoxenite, rutile, geothite and lepidocrocite combined,” explains Marcia Lanyon. “We try to buy unusual materials where we can for the simple reason that they look different, are a different shade or have a different quality to our usual stock. Unique and unusual items are always snapped up, particularly by the designer/makers.”

Italian jewellery company Milor’s Bronzallure line (a bronze-based alloy plated in 18ct rose gold, set with gemstones) regularly makes a feature of unusual stones.

Labradorite, grey quartz and drusy quartz are among the latest as are stones with a matt finish for an opaque surface. Four different beryls – aquamarine, morganite, heliodor and goshenite – feature in Sarah Ho Couture’s Aurora Suite (“I saw the stones and had to have them; the inspiration for the design came later”).

While South Africa-based jewellery brand Gepardissima clearly has a wealth of gem possibilities on its doorstep (and actively

“Colour is more often than not a decisive factor in a purchase – customers want to match stones to outfits, which is something that will affect all retailers” sources most stones locally) it also remains on the look out for unusual gems. The designer has recently included Australian mookaite, drawn by the variety of warm earthy colours and variety of patterns. The mix of ‘noble’ stones (diamonds, tanzanite and rubies) with gemstones increases the style possibilities for the brand.

In a similar way, Derbyshire-based CW Sellors, which specialises in British stones Blue John and Whitby jet, has been looking further afield recently – fossilized Elkhorn coral (sourced by Chris Sellors from Barbados), turquoise from Arizona and granite from the Seychelles. Recently the company has been mixing British gemstones

Lestie Lee

The Voice of the Industry 51

| Feature The retail view of coloured stones: “We have found in recent years that customers are often looking for different and unusual stones. Largely we will buy the stones loose and set them fairly classically to our own designs in gold or platinum. Occasionally we will buy from a designer or manufacturer if we believe the designs to be sufficiently appealing and the pieces fit into our existing range.”

Jeremy Pragnell, Pragnells, Stratford-Upon-Avon “Coloured stones are an important part of our stock – they’re a USP for us in our town as we carry the largest and finest selection. After ruby, sapphires and emeralds, aquamarine is our next best seller, then tanzanite – which I personally love, as do our clients. We have plans for a tanzanite-themed event during which our key suppliers will talk about their products, where they’re sourced and what’s special about them.

“We have ‘ambassadors’ in our shop who are specialists in one or more gemstones so that any questions can be answered. It’s their job to keep up with developments and any ethical issues. We plan to rotate this so that staff learn more about the stock selection and individually more about each stone. We also plan for each ambassador to give a short presentation to the rest of the staff about what they have learnt.”

Alastair Collier, EW Payne, Bromley and Sevenoaks “I am a gemmologist so I have always travelled looking for gemstones. I like my stones to have a story and my staff get behind this too. While the ‘big three’ are commercially safe, I specialise in large, loose tanzanite, which I love (as well as tsavorite garnet) for the depth of colour. I love the stories of how they were discovered and the fact that tanzanite may be a finite stone makes it all the more interesting to me and the customer. Apart from London Road jewellery I design the jewellery for our own sourced gemstones.”

Melanie Wakefield, Wakefields Jewellers, Horsham

with more precious ones, such as diamonds, “to lift the profile of the coloured stones, while offering customers something unique.”

Sometimes though excitement over new discoveries has to be tempered. “While we’re always fascinated by new and unusual stones we care more about delivering the best quality to our clients,” says Rachel Rodgers of Rodgers & Rodgers. “We will only introduce a new stone when we know we can guarantee the standard and consistency of the supply. This means that we often pass on using some of the stones available.”

Suzanne Adams adds that consumer confidence should not be over-estimated – “it can take a while for a new stone to become accepted in the market,” she says.

Milly Swire

52 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Thinking commercially Away from the more rarefied world of fine jewellery and designer collections, the more commercial sector of the market naturally keeps its eye on fashion trends and coloured stones provide the pivotal point for new seasonal lines. Gemstones have always featured in Gecko’s Elements Gold collections and in contrast to current favourite – turquoise set in yellow gold – are tonal combinations like shades of moonstone, London blue topaz and iolite, and garnet, pink tourmaline and pink sapphire. More unusual stones have crept in too – a pinky-red rubelite and Brazilian green-blue apatite. Gecko’s customers, apparently, are happy to experiment with new stones that follow colour trends.

At Domino, the Sassolini coloured stone range is regarded as providing an excellent entry point for fashion-forward younger buyers. A mix of gemstones and hydrothermal quartz creates a range that is “a wonderful starting place for those looking for precious jewellery for the first time,” says sales and marketing director Andrew Sollitt.

“It’s also easily within the price range of

Roberto Coin

self-purchasing businesswomen looking for something to match a particular outfit.”

Viewing gemstone jewellery as accessories to complement seasonal trends is a useful sales tool. Chris Land of Pomegranate, whose collections are informed by the colours, shapes and tactile qualities of gems, explains that a great deal of care goes into creating harmonious ranges. “Colour is more often than not a decisive factor in a purchase – customers want to match stones to outfits, which is something that will affect all retailers,” he explains.

Gepardissima

Treatments and ethics Something else that affects jewellers, manufacturers and gem dealers alike is the issue of treatments. Apsara’s Peter Grumitt outlines the situation: “The main problem with gem treatments is the lack of disclosure at point of sale. There are a huge array of treatments performed on many different types of gems – some more controversial than others.

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| Feature

Hattie Rickards

“I love big vibrant gemstones – they have a character of their own and I tend to allow them to dictate the design to an extent” “An ‘acceptable’ treatment could include heat-only on gems including rubies, sapphires, tanzanite etc. Treatments which have led to controversy generally include those where additives are used. These treatments could include fissure filling or artificial colouring with the diffusion of chemical additives.

Some treatments are permanent and require no special care. Others like glass filling are not stable or permanent and will deteriorate

Dower & Hall

54 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

over time. Glass filling remains a big problem in the trade as there are many of these stones being sold without proper disclosure,” he adds.

“There are a lot of what I call fake stones, you see them at shows, rubies for £30 per carat,” adds Richard Haruni. “They’re sold as treated rubies, but are really a lead/glass infused red stone. Not a ruby. My rule is if a stone seems too cheap, there is probably something wrong with it. My solution is to buy from someone you trust.” Trust (along with disclosure) – crucial in this business.

“The ‘fakers’ of this world are getting cleverer and cleverer. On a recent GIA stone course I was amazed on how real the inclusions within synthetic stones look!” says Geoghegan. “The stone suppliers I deal with are always one step ahead of the fakers which is one reason why I tend to do business with well known, reputable firms.

Stone-specific courses are an excellent way of learning about this subject – combine this with dealing with a reputable stone supplier and the formula is set for problem-free area of the market.”

The bottom line for all concerned is that if a stone has been treated in any way, this should be properly disclosed to the purchaser along with any information on any special care needed. It’s also fair to say, as some do, that ‘treatment’ needn’t be a dirty word. “I don't think treatments are wrong necessarily and in some cases they improve dramatically the end product and this is the reason I am very relaxed using doublets recently,” says Frantzi. “As long as we are aware of these treatments and we pass the information on to our clients.”

The other industry concern is that of ethical standards – again a matter of trust.

Many designers spoken to admit that they currently cannot be totally sure that all their stones are ‘ethical’. “I am very concerned about the ethical issues surrounding coloured gemstones but at this present time, there is not a water-tight certification system for stones,” explains Hattie Rickards, who was one of the first 20 companies to use Fairtrade Fairmined gold. “All the gems I use are sourced from a supplier with strong ethical and environmental policies and I have to be fully transparent with my clients that I cannot guarantee one hundred per cent traceable supply chain, but place my trust in the stone sourcing company.”

“We take ethical and environmental issues very seriously,” says Tonna of Gemfields.

“Natural gems are at the heart of our operation. Our focus – reliable and ethicallyproduced Zambian emeralds and amethysts and now, Mozambican rubies – uphold fair-trade practices while remaining in accordance with the highest level of environmental, social and safety standards. This mission holds true for every gemstone in our portfolio. Our mine to market strategy through transparent partnerships with leading coloured gemstones dealers and manufacturers allows us to guarantee the provenance of every gem: our promise to both the trade and the consumer.”

SHO Fine Jewellery

“An elegant business and creations must go hand in hand with standards,” says Harald Sitta, MD and owner of Gepardissima. “As we are a member of ‘Proudly South African’ we subscribe to fair labour practices and environmental standards. Our purveyors are tried and tested and we also ask them to adhere to standards. In general [we should conduct] a fair and balanced way of business.

Hunting only for the cheapest thing can have undesirable consequences – buying cheap can for many become expensive, and ultimately also for the buyer!

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| Feature

Brand Profile BERING Belinda Morris learns a little more about the watch brand that has seemingly risen without trace to become an understated horological sensation enrik Leth Møller is keen not to sound like he’s bragging, but, quite frankly, it’s difficult not to come across that way. Just a bit. And you could forgive him for feeling a little smug. Just over a year ago he introduced a completely unknown watch brand to the UK and today it has been sold into over 250 retailers. I’ll say that again – zero to 250 in less than 18 months. And that’s without the benefit of major national advertising and/or celebrity endorsement, which is pretty good going by anyone’s standards.

In a quiet way, the Danish-born Bering watch company has turned into something of a phenomenon and Leth Møller is, understandably, a happy man. Perhaps hindsight is informing his view, but he goes as far as to say that had Bering been a ready-established brand with a decent foothold in the UK market already, he would have been less interested in taking it on. “If it hadn’t been unknown I would probably

H

have said no when I was asked to become the UK director,” he insists. Clearly he’s a man who relishes a challenge.

“But coming from the jewellery industry,” (Leth Møller was previous with Spinning Jewellery) “I was very aware that I would have to work hard – nothing sells itself.”

Which makes Bering something of an anomaly, as it seems to be giving the lie to this commercial truism. “Retailers are telling us that in fact it does seem to be selling itself,” he says. It appears that in one or two cases it has had to, with some retailers being too busy to devote much time to the little collection they took a punt on and have left to defend for itself in a corner of the shop.

No problem. In contrast to many timepieces from the major watch houses (where the movement and technical details are key selling points requiring a significant level of knowledge on the part of the sales person) with Bering it’s (almost) all

The Bering story The idea for the watch brand came to Rene Kaerskov – a Danish businessman and adventurer – after he jumped out of a helicopter over the North Pole in 2008.

Overwhelmed by the cool, simple beauty of the white expanse of ice, he conceived a vision of a new watch brand that would be as pure and clear as the Arctic.

He persuaded his business partners of the concept and Bering was born soon after.

The name honours the Danish sailor Vitus Bering, who, in 1728, set sail for the almost unknown area of the Arctic Ocean, crossing the straits that would later bear his name.

56 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

about looks; it’s the design that attracts a customer’s eye and makes the sale.

And then there’s the price which, when coupled with the quality (hi-tech ceramic, scratchproof crystal, ultra lightweight titanium…) makes these watches a tempting proposition. Around 75 per cent of the collection retails between £100 and £200 – but their looks suggest something much higher.

Perhaps it’s the clean, minimal (typically Danish) design that wins people over. As consumers today increasingly buy into the idea of a ‘wardrobe’ of watches, Bering represents a complete change from the allsinging, all-dancing weighty timepieces.

Classic, simple designs with a nod to fashion are the brand’s hallmarks and in the short space of time that it has been around (it was launched in Europe barely three years ago) Bering’s DNA is clear to see right across the range of 240 or so models. According to one of Leth Møller’s retailers this consistency is unprecedented: “I have never been presented with a watch collection that was so harmonious”, was the verdict apparently.

All of which isn’t to say that the collection lacks innovation or the odd gadgety detail.

Bering has a chronograph style – as worn by Leth Møller on the day I meet him – which is one of the neatest, most unobtrusive chronographs I have ever seen. There’s also the world’s slimmest radio controlled watch in the world, with a separate second dial – super slim combined with ceramic being a Bering speciality.

Feature | Why would a brand that prides itself on its minimalist approach want, or need, to launch such an innovation? “It is a dilemma,” concedes Leth Møller. “We’re not about new designs and gadgets; we’re more about the classics. But having said that we did introduce 30 odd new designs into the collection at IJL. The fact is that you can always continue to evolve good designs; find new twists and tweaks and that is what Bering is doing. We always look at our sales stats for the best sellers though. Our task is not to sell in but to sell through – retailers need to have the best styles.”

Notwithstanding the occasional techy feature, the fact that the watch collection as a whole tends to be lacking in bells and whistles, underscores its original intention to appeal equally to men and women. If you were to apply a motorcar analogy to Bering, its average customer is less likely to be moved by horsepower, top speed and curb weight than, well, good looks and value really.

They’re not saying that women don’t care about the technical stuff (of course not!) but as it happens, 65 per cent of sales, in the UK at least, are for the ladies’ watches.

That statistic aside, Leth Møller admits that it’s

The Bering theme From the outset, Bering decided to focus on the production of super-slim hi-tech ceramic watches. It’s an exacting and time-consuming process – very fine ceramic powder is pressed into a mould, then, in a furnace at 1,600 degrees Celsius, the material is given its extreme density and hardness. After cooling, the hard material is cut, ground and polished.

For a matte effect the watchcase, bezel and links are sand-blasted and for a more high gloss finish they are hand-polished.

Since the launch of the first watches ‘simple elegance’ has been the key concept and to that end ceramic elements have been joined by stainless steel, titanium, mesh, carbon, mother of pearl, Swarovski crystals and diamonds.

Whatever the materials, the timepieces remain sleek and flat.

help to create the perception of higher value, heritage and an established ‘big brand’. “Why don’t I know about Bering?” might be the obvious consumer response to just a couple of towers and a cabinet in a retail setting.

“We’ve put a lot of investment into building local successes,” explains Leth Møller. “If a customer has space for it, we’ll take it with the free furniture, banners and so on. We train staff, support retailers with local advertising and competitions and dress cabinets and, with time, this will turn into national success.”

At the current rate it shouldn’t be a great deal of time though. “A year ago we were totally unknown and it’s gone from that to being the best selling brand in the store in some cases… pardon the brag,” he adds, “and it’s fantastic to have that confidence. My message? Come on board – this brand is working!”

quite difficult to analyse the Bering customer profile: they could be anywhere from 20 to 80 in age. “There’s a style for everyone, which is one of its strengths,” he says.

Another strength and, arguably, a reason for the company’s success, is that it was born fully-formed. There was no slow, creeping build-up but an arrival that was accompanied straight away by all the furniture, banners, marketing material and packaging (rather exclusive looking glass boxes) that

The Voice of the Industry 57

| Insurance Matters

Some-wear over the rainbow...

Jenny Partridge of TH March explains why the correct insurance for coloured gemstone jewellery can be so important. hanks, probably in no small part, to the ‘Kate Middleton Effect’ of recent times (as well as far reaching global politics, economic forces etc.) increasing numbers of red carpet celebrities are to be seen proudly showing off fashionable coloured stones in an amazing variety of settings. With burgeoning numbers of talented designers choosing to make use of the stunning diversity of gemstones available, consumer demand is increasing exponentially (and so is the need to make certain that they are properly insured!).

As my colleague John Watson mentioned in last month’s issue, for some women it is only diamonds that can be ‘a girl’s best friend’, but for others who seek something more flamboyant the lure of vibrant rainbow colours is proving to be increasingly irresistible.

Many of our clients at TH March are particularly interested in coloured stones and will own extremely valuable examples.

A natural Burmese ruby, exceptional grade Columbian emerald or a cornflower blue Ceylon sapphire, will be valuable not only because of rarity but also because of its inherent natural beauty.

In order to ensure that precious stones are correctly insured they will need a detailed valuation and if possible a Gemmological Laboratory Report.

Lab reports for diamonds and coloured stones are not generally required by insurers who are usually satisfied with a valuation.

However it can still be prudent for clients to request a report or for jewellers to offer one since this promotes transparency and will help to ensure that, in the event of a claim arising, replacement stones are as near in quality and value to the original as possible.

Not only does such a lab report give full detail as to colour, clarity, cut and carat weight, it also determines whether or not a stone is

T

58 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

natural, synthetic or treated. For instance it is common practice and acceptable to heat treat sapphires and rubies to improve their colour. Diamonds and other stones can be laser drilled to remove inclusions and fracture filled afterwards.

It is possible to miss treatments with the naked eye making a gem lab report advisable, not only to protect the jeweller but the client too. Disclosure of treatment is essential and consequently any valuations must specify any enhancements to a stone.

Setting and mountings clauses When jewellery is set with particularly valuable gemstones insurers often require the client to obtain an annual settings, clasps and mountings check from their jeweller. In the event of a claim clients will be asked to provide documentation to prove that such a check has been carried out. This process reassures the insurer that there is less risk of loss of stones and gives the owner peace of mind that their jewellery is in good condition.

At the same time it is also a chance for the jeweller to highlight any problems, clean the stones and engage with an existing customer who may have future purchases in mind.

Some jewellers already offer these services without insurer prompts.

Discerning individuals often choose to commission bespoke jewellery, using particular stones, unusual settings and mounts to create the perfect piece. Many jewellers have embraced the use of CAD combining modern technology with skilled craftsmanship, which further increases the availability of unique jewellery. Those who prefer antique jewellery or have inherited family pieces will likewise find themselves with jewellery that cannot easily be replaced on the high street. For instance a rare antique piece by designers such as Fabergé or Castellani may only be sourced through specialist retailers, dealers or auction houses.

Consumer demand is increasing exponentially (and so is the need to make certain that they are properly insured!).

Why is specialist insurance so important for bespoke or rare jewellery?

As specialist brokers to the jewellery trade we try wherever possible to work with insurers who are happy for clients to return to their UK jeweller in the event of a claim: This ensures that our clients can have confidence that the replacement item will be very similar to the original. This is because it is our policy to ask for a detailed insurance valuation for all specified jewellery from the beginning.

One of the main reasons private individuals contact TH March, often following a referral from their jeweller, is that they are worried about how they would repair or replace their precious jewellery in the event of a claim.

Although it may be possible to replace certain types of jewellery in a high street chain store, many of our private clients would find such a demand impossible.

Jenny Partridge is the account executive for TH March’s Private Client Team. She began her career in the auction world managing fine art and antique salerooms and running a jewellery department. She is a qualified gemmologist, having obtained the FGA and DGA and recently became an Associate of the Chartered Insurance Institute

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Present & Correct

ith the rapid rise of branded jewellery within our market and the growing importance of watches (major names or otherwise) it’s possibly no wonder that less is spoken of giftware. Pens, clocks, silver flatware and general tableware, lighters, christening gifts – they were all standard fare in a traditional jewellers; as much part and parcel of the business as pads of diamond rings, gold gate bracelets and pearl necklaces – but times change. And how.

Today the suppliers of such gift and lifestyle items are thinner on the ground (particularly UK ones) and the past 10 years or so have seen one or two shifts in the style and nature of these pieces.

It’s not all bad news though. A foray among the exhibitors at the recent Goldsmiths Fair revealed a very healthy supply of exciting talent in this category. And while it’s true that some jewellery retailers have decided that this sector of their business offers less potential than it once did, others are very happy to keep the tradition going. Christopher Carry of Jamieson & Carry in Aberdeen for instance. “We’ve always loved silverware, since our predecessors established our business in 1733,” he says.

In addition to gift, glass and silverware by brands such as Royal Selangor, Carr’s and Dartington, the shop – with its Luxury Gifts Room – sells Montblanc writing instruments and leather goods, fine clocks by Comitti and wedding team gifts. And while some may feel that tableware might be an outmoded category, Carry feels that more people are dining-in (rather than ‘out’) these days and want to create a luxurious sense of occasion when they do.

Elsewhere, while beautiful, branded cigar-related items are still in demand, it’s obviously no surprise that smoking products have taken a dip over the last few years. By the same score – given the leaps and bounds being made in new technology – it might seem logical that quality pens are losing out to tablets, smart phones and the like when it comes to Christmas wish-lists. But not necessarily so. And in those instances where this might be the case, it could say less about the product itself than about retail attitudes and selling techniques.

To get a feel for this (forgotten?) category, we’ve spoken to a cross-section of suppliers – from silversmiths and designers to major global players – and report on their view of the market and what’s new from their camp for the year ahead.

W

60 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Once upon a time there was more to a jewellers than, well, jewellery – there were many and varied gift items and silverware, from fancy lighters to canteens of cutlery.

So how fares that corner of the shop today?

Montegrappa Montegrappa, the oldest pen factory in Italy, celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, was introduced to the UK 20 years ago by the GBA Pen Company and has always been well known for its limited edition pens, of which around three are produced each year. The fact that they are made from precious metals and often adorned with gemstones, makes them ideal gift items to be sold through jewellery shops. As the company has now introduced a watch and cufflink collection to match the Nero Uno collection of pens, Montegrappa is on course to create a lifestyle brand. This GBA’s MD Frances Mollinghoff believes, will help the staff in jewellery outlets to become more familiar with selling pens and take Montegrappa to a wider audience. www.gbapen.co.uk

Feature | Carrs Silver/Argenesi Main picture, facing page Sheffield-based, family-run Carrs Silver is finding that while its more traditional giftware pieces such as silver frames are going through a difficult period, the market is looking strong for Argenesi, the extensive Italian glass and silverware brand that the company now distributes. Combining an innovative and very distinctive manufacturing technique (known as sputtering) with colour and texture, the line of plates, bowls, vases etc. of all shapes and sizes is proving very popular with those jewellers who have seen it. Within the core Carrs collection, small items for children are still much in demand, explains sales manager Walter Gritti. www.carrs-silver.co.uk

Faber-Castell This beautiful fountain pen by Graf von Faber-Castell is the new Anello (meaning ‘ring’ in Italian) which takes its inspiration from this ancient symbol of eternity and fidelity. The snow white barrel is made from resin segments and features platinum-plated rings, while the nib is made from 18ct dual colour gold. Also in the collection is a propelling pencil, ballpoint pen and rollerball pen and the collection features instruments in other materials including titanium, ebony wood and brushed gold. www.stonemarketing.com

Montblanc

Martyn Pugh Award-winning British silversmith Martyn Pugh creates “beautiful objects for people to use; function and mechanics are of equal importance to uncompromised beauty” he explains. His repertoire includes everything from trays and candlesticks to Christening gifts and napkin rings, the most popular being jugs and decanters, drinking vessels and spoons. “Flatware and tableware are still in demand, but customers now look for sculptural pieces for the table that are a pleasure to use.” www.martynpugh.co.uk

Phil Jordan

A pen is not simply a pen if it is one of eight limited edition instruments in pineapple-cut ebony wood, each facet set with a diamond.

From the latest Montblanc Masters for Meisterstuck L’Aubrac collection, the Atelier Privé Edition, at £43,000, is set a little apart from the rest. There is also a Special Edition fountain pen in granadilla wood with an 18ct gold nib and silver cap rings and rivets that is a less breath-taking £1,600. www.montblanc.com

Using a variety of hammering techniques (and other silversmithing skills) London-based contemporary designer silversmith Phil Jordan produces functional tableware – most popular of which are currently affordable and collectible condiment dishes and small spoons. “The cost of silver has gone up over the past five years so consumers are starting to understand that we are not putting our prices up by choice,” he says. www.philjordansilverware.co.uk

Zoe Watts

Deakin & Francis Cufflink maker Deakin & Francis has now extended its brand by introducing a line of luxury leather accessories including wallets, card-holders, money clips, silver bangles, signet rings and tie clips. “By adding to their collections, jewellery retailers can compete with department stores – they are able to offer a one-stop shopping destination without losing the level of customer service expected in an independent jewellers,” says Henry. www.deakinandfrancis.co.uk

Silversmith and jeweller Zoe Watts believes that fine dining and entertaining are coming back into fashion, so special flatware and tableware are wanted these days. Currently though, her biggest market is for bookmarks, boxes and spoons, with the rising price of silver clearly having a restricting effect on her large silversmithing pieces. www.zoewattsdesigns.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 61

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62 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Feature | Philip Kydd “The market for silverware has definitely shrunk in the last 10 years and some of the reasons for this are that people’s tastes have changed; they no longer have time to clean silver; there are concerns over security in the home; the vogue is for less cluttered, minimalist lifestyles and silver has trebled in price in the last four years.” Having said all that, the silversmith believes that there is still a market for “well-designed, unique, hand-made items” (such as his new iPhone stylus pens and laser pointers) and that jewellery shops are still the go-to place for them. www.philipkydd.co.uk

In Touch Marketing “From my perspective business has benefitted from the high cost of silver if anything because people still like to have a good quality pen, pair of cuff links or handbag mirrors in my experience,” says Mark Riddle, an independent agent representing Jean Pierre of Switzerland and Lulu Guinness’ quirkily pretty, licensed handbag accessories by Stratton. “And that’s despite the rise in the use of iPads etc.” Pocket flasks, compasses, desk clocks and handbag mirrors are among his best sellers, with functionality being a key word, as well as personalisation and packaging. Tel: 07789 111480

Atelier Boss & Harrison

Rebecca Johnson

Boss & Harrison’s newly-released range of Newborn Baby Silver Collectibles is handmade from solid silver which ensures that no two pieces are exactly the same. The moveable little works of art – the pushable pram and rockable cradle – can be further enhanced to suit customer taste by the addition of baby accessories such as mobiles, pram chains, rattles etc. www.boss-harrison.com

“The cost of silver has perhaps pushed large scale pieces out of many people’s budgets, but there’s still a market for silverware as they’re becoming more intrigued by bespoke items that have been hand-made here in the UK,” says silversmith Rebecca Johnson.

“Silver still holds the same values and connotations and therefore to give a silver piece as a gift is highly regarded, I feel.

I have a range of spaghetti forks and spoons that people buy either singly or in sets. Also designers now are not restricted to what can be made by hand – computers have created endless opportunities.” www.rebeccaannejohnson.co.uk

Tregawne/Waldmann While sales of silver items such as vases, candlesticks, card cases and other traditional gifts have taken a tumble of late (thanks to the rise in the price of silver and the cost of tooling), silver plated pieces are doing well, as are sterling silver pens – Tregawne is the sole UK distributor for Waldmann. The German brand has been making bespoke writing instruments for the last 95 years, but also has its own collection of pens which has grown substantially over the years. “The brand is definitely on the up as the pens are affordable, very well made and fit nicely into today’s market,” says Tregawne’s director Annelies Howay.

Tel: 01386 861800

The Voice of the Industry 63

| Feature

Ice Clock & Ice Watch

Kirsty Eaglesfield While she recognises that the market is not as strong as it was, silversmith Kirsty Eaglesfield feels that consumers would still rather buy quality pieces from traditional jewellers and galleries and that the most popular items in her experience are hand-made silver spoons, salt bowls and small, decorative boxes. “I have had to adapt designs to minimise silver usage, however others have just had to go up in price to cover the rise in the silver price,” she explains. It’s not necessarily a negative issue though: “People now see silver as a more ‘precious’ metal again and are willing to invest in it,” she adds. www.kirstyeaglesfield.co.uk

Following on from the popularity of the colourful Ice Watch collections comes the retro-styled Ice-Phone handset and stand.

Compatible with most mobile phones and tablets, it’s available in 10 colours, including black and white and features a rubberised finish. Besides enhanced call clarity, the Ice-Phone allows users to access phone functions while making calls and it also turns PCs into telephones using Skype. Phones can be charged in situ using an existing charger.

Peers Hardy – Tel: 01494 486220

Royal Selangor “In our experience the market for good quality silverware and gifts remains strong in the luxury sector and premium positioned children’s gifts are robust and resilient,” says Peter Coleman of Royal Selangor and Comyns. “Our policy has been to pass on the rises (and falls) in the price of silver where this can be justified. This is our preference rather than risk compromising the quality and feel of our products and sales volumes have barely been affected by our strategy,” he adds. This year six new items have been added to the popular pewter Teddy Bears’ Picnic collection. www.royalselangor.com

Seiko Clocks

Porsche Design One of Porsche Design’s most successful writing tool collections, the P’3110 TecFlex, now has a new look. Initially available in stainless steel and steel with gold plate (plus silver and palladium plating) it now also comes in all-black. The barrel is made from fine stainless steel threads which are woven then finished with a matt-black chrome coating. The range includes fountain pens, rollerball pens, ballpoint pens and mechanical pencils. When the button is depressed on the pencil and ballpoint, the flexible material of the barrel follows the movement and compresses. www.porsche-design.com

64 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

“Despite many national jewellery multiples having decided to reduce their stock of clocks, we still have a loyal and very successful group of traditional independent jewellery retailers where clocks occupy a premium space in store,” says Janet Savage, senior merchandiser for Seiko Clocks. Today the collection ranges from contemporary-looking desk and alarm clocks to far more traditionally-styled wooden pendulums, hall clocks and mantel clocks in the high gloss Piano collection. www.seiko.co.uk

| Feature

The Digital Conundrum We’ve arrived in the digital age, everyone’s online, Blue Nile’s cleaning up on diamonds, and the whole world seems to have gone social media mad – so, should we jump on the bandwagon too asks Felix Velarde.

or the small family jeweller, or even the large high street family jewellery chain, this is a question that has loomed with increasing frequency over the past few years. Indeed, now that the smart phone accounts for nearly as much online traffic as PCs, and the website is almost every retail chain’s largest single store, it’s a question that has gone from one that might have been shelved to one that now may well be business-critical imminently.

So what are the basic decisions that need to be made, how do we decide what to do, and how should we prioritise? The first is simple: the decision is based on a straightforward set of questions, all revolving around threat/opportunity. Can we compete without going online? Can we gain any benefits from going online? And to answer this you need to ask yourself how you relate to your customers.

For example, are most of your customers one-off purchasers? Really? Do they buy on several one-off occasions (wedding, birthday, Christening, Bar Mitzvah)? And if so, is there something you can do to keep a relationship going? You probably do a lot of good things – great in-store experience, knowledgeable and engaging staff, appropriate range of products – but how do you follow this up and keep in touch? Digital channels may provide one answer of course, as email – today’s postcard – costs pennies to generate and send, even in relative bulk.

If you have a few hundred customers it’s fine to do this by hand, because it can be done instantly and more or less from memory, but digital’s power here is the ability to divide customers up into groups (husbands, over-50s, partner’s birthday in October, anniversary in May for instance) and automatically send the right message to the

F

66 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

right person at the right time. Simple segmentation like this can mean compelling messages, as opposed to the one-sizefits-all approach most retailers seem to take.

In fact, a strategy like this uses the power of digital to re-create the personal servicebased relationships of old.

This kind of approach of course requires data. Major retailers have this down pat and collect information at point of sale (age, marital status, reason for visit, products looked at and bought, birthday etc.) and add it to a centralised database (which could be as simple as an Excel spreadsheet or as big as a Single Customer View database integrated with your EPoS system).

You can augment this data at the till, or by leveraging your website. Maybe consider asking customers to visit the site and they’ll get some value exchange – perhaps free engraving next time they buy, or a free trinket, or the chance to win something. This gives you an opportunity to learn both about the individual and about your customers

may tell you things you never knew (“we browse in your shop because it’s friendly but we buy from your competitors online because it gets delivered gift-wrapped”).

Most people like to be asked their views as the implication that you value their opinion confers a sense of belonging and ownership.

Your website is the perfect vehicle for this, especially as a simple survey can be extremely cheap to produce and promote.

The benefits may not immediately justify spending thousands (or even hundreds of thousands) on a serious e-commerce strategy. But, by creating relationships with your customers, by using cheap and easy channels like email to help bridge the long gaps between visits to your shop, you can easily develop loyalty at a very low cost.

By the time you have hundreds of thousands of customers, and you start changing the purchase patterns – say frequency, or order value – of swathes of them by a few per cent, you could be talking millions in incremental revenue. Even for the

By the time you have hundreds of thousands of customers, and you start changing the purchase patterns of them by a few per cent, you could be talking millions in incremental revenue. in general. It also gives you data from which you can start to make decisions and with which you can create targeted, timely and relevant campaigns to drive sales and support your ongoing relationship.

One benefit of a relationship supported and bridged online is that you can use it to ask questions about your strategy. For instance, if you’re trying to work out if your customers might buy if you built an e-commerce site, why not ask them? You may be surprised at what they tell you; they

independent family jewellers, the difference between a declining, ageing customer base visiting spontaneously and a loyal, engaged customer who increasingly uses the internet to keep in touch, make decisions, book appointments to view and choose wedding rings, may even be the difference between fading away and reinvigorated growth.

Felix Velarde is MD of digital customer engagement agency Underwired.com, whose clients include F. Hinds.

| Feature

When less is

more...

Time was when jewellers’ windows were nothing if not packed high with stock, but not anymore. As Mary Brittain discovered the latest trends in the High Street are for smaller product displays, more openness and space in windows, dedicated internal areas and above all an individuality of look that will differentiate your shop from its competitors. n these challenging times you might be forgiven for thinking that re-vamping their stores would be very far from most retailers’ minds but you would be wrong. As two of the jewellery industry’s best known specialist shop fitting companies Hallmark Design and Giddings Design confirm, they are currently inundated with projects as their customers countrywide jostle to unveil their new look stores in time for Christmas.

“Our creative display & lighting division has been particularly busy working with key global brands such as De Beers, Asprey and

I

‘L.V’ but the independent sector is also buoyant, particularly at the higher end where jewellers are looking to distinguish themselves from their competition and want a look for their stores which will set them apart,” says Mark Giddings RIBA of Giddings Design.

Joanne Coleman, design manager at Hallmark Design, which is also working hard on a number of what she describes as ‘exciting’ projects for jewellers, agrees, as does Joseph Nightburg, a director of The Jewellery Display Company who commented

about his customers: “They’re not messing around; they’re going for full refits. This week’s been mad with buying outstripping all our expectations.”

So demand is clearly strong but is now a good time to be thinking about refurbishing your store? Haywood Milton of Miltons, who describes his business as ‘one of the super pawnbrokers’, selling as it does extremely high-quality second hand jewellery, thinks it is.

Milton has been working with Mark Giddings at Giddings Design for the past ten years to up-date and refurbish his chain of shops in the North West. “It’s an on-going project, but in the decade in which we have worked with Giddings we have definitely succeeded in lifting ourselves massively upmarket,” he says.

This repositioning of Milton’s stores has had an extremely positive effect on its business. “We used to sell about 20 Rolex watches a year and now it’s more like 700 and this is definitely down to how we are presenting them,” he says.

The presentation tools Milton uses have been deliberately designed to be ‘effectively invisible’. The shops use bespoke display materials created for it by Giddings and produced in light maple wood and a white fabric. The look is extremely clean and doesn’t date. “In the second hand jewellery business each piece being sold is unique, so we need to display a great deal of stock and we wanted display materials which are completely neutral and which let the stock sell itself,” Milton explains.

Thus, while Milton’s windows may be packed with stock, the pads are arranged in such a way that shoppers can see through the display into the shop beyond and the staff inside can see out. “We allow a lot of space around the displays and there is no backdrop to the windows. This is good for security but it also makes it less intimidating for people to come in because they can see that there are areas in the shop where they can browse without being pounced upon,” says Milton.

Open up your windows

Super pawn broker Miltons has used Giddings Design to create bespoke display materials which allow a view into the shop’s interior whilst letting the jewellery sell itself.

68 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Store designs which allow customers to be able to see through the windows into the shop beyond, is a trend well-recognised by Joanne Coleman. “Twenty years ago jewellery shops were designed on a model a bit like a bank, with big counters and the staff on one side and the customers on the other.

Feature |

The new shop fit for Philip Stonor in Leeds which was created by Apple Display uses giant life-style mages on Tex Flex light boxes and colourful display materials to stop customers in their tracks.

It’s very different now; the barriers are being broken down. We are encouraging our customers to take down the curtains behind their window displays and to let their customers see through into the shop. Less is definitely more in terms of display, you want to show just sufficient product to get someone to actually come into the shop,” she says.

Allowing their customers to see into the shop has certainly worked well for Houlden Group member Philip Stoner in Leeds. The company used Apple Display for the shop fit which was, says director Jonathan Stonor, ‘superb’ working 20 hour days to create a completely new look for the shop to Stoner’s own design concept. The extensive windows have huge ‘Tex Flex’ light boxes in the bulkheads featuring enormous and beautiful black and white images of models wearing its jewellery to create a lifestyle feel.

The jewellery is displayed beneath on

brilliantly coloured display materials. “The contrast is stunning and from the first day it stopped people in their tracks,” says Stonor.

There are also individual pods, or showcases, in the base of the windows to create an additional wow factor.

Windows allowing a view into the store is a trend also recognised by The Jewellery Display Company Limited (JDCT) where Jacob Nightburg confirms that many of his customers are now opting for just three or four pedestal cabinets in their windows rather

“Less is definitely more in terms of display, you want to show just sufficient product to get someone to actually come into the shop.”

than a fixed display. The look of the moment for JDCT is high gloss items and luxury velour fabrics to give an extremely plush look. “We are selling a great many freestanding cabinets which are ready lit with state-of-the art lighting,” says Nightburg.

Interior layout While windows may be becoming more ‘open’, shop interiors are frequently more enclosed with many retailers choosing to create private areas within their stores where larger purchases can be made, or where customers can sit and relax and in some cases be served refreshments.

“You need intimate spaces and aspirational spaces,” says Coleman. “Somewhere in the store you need to create an area where you can showcase your most select pieces and this needs careful consideration and the best possible lighting and colours. We often situate this towards the back of the store to

The Voice of the Industry 69

| Feature

Winsor and Bishop’s new store created by Benbow to Giddings & Winsor and Bishop’s own design uses richly coloured carpet in the store’s signature shade to create a unifying effect.

get as many people as possible flowing past. It needs to be a little tucked away without making people feel trapped.”

Sophie Fulford of NAG and Houldon Group member Winsor Bishop completed a major refit this time last year much of which was created for her by Benbow, based on original design concepts by Giddings Design – preferred suppliers to Patek Philippe and Rolex. She describes the result as a “very chic store” and is someone who clearly recognises the importance of making each area of the store work both separately and

very recognisable for being Winsor Bishop’s own-brand colour worked well to provide a unified look.

“A year down the line, it’s been very interesting to see which areas really work for us commercially and which don’t. The bit we thought was going to be excellent hasn’t in fact delivered as much as we’d hoped, yet other areas have been far better than we had anticipated. The ‘salon’ areas are really great and our store now enables customers to browse which they never really could do before,” she says.

“At the flick of a switch the glass becomes opaque – it’s expensive but it’s worth it and although it’s no longer new it is still a talking point…” together. “We found ourselves in a position where every brand wanted to have its own area, each with very strong identities and it could easily have become a mixed bag of brands, with us losing our own identity,” she says. For Fulford, who did the store design herself, using a strongly coloured carpet

70 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Private space works extremely well for Haywood Milton. “Because we both buy and sell big ticket items we sometimes need to take customers out of the body of the store. To do this we have created rooms off the main store separated by large sheets of ‘Privalite’ glass. Most of the time

you can see through into these rooms but at the flick of a switch the glass becomes opaque – it’s expensive but it’s worth it and although it’s no longer new it is still a talking point,” says Milton.

Private booths are also a feature at Diamond Heaven in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. This shop which was refitted earlier this year by Hallmark Design has an interesting concept in that it offers its customers the opportunity to create their own jewellery from a range of components – providing them with a choice of loose diamonds and a range of mounts rather than finished pieces. Its assistants will also design bespoke rings to customers’ requirements using CAD on computers either at the counters on in the booths.

Modern technology features large at Diamond Heaven. The window incorporates a large LCD screen showing videos of its products, which are also shown on in-store TVs and on its website. “I’ve lost count the number of times I’ve been showing a customer something at the counter when they spot something on the screen and

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Feature |

Diamond Heaven in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter wanted to stand out from the crowd and with the help of Hallmark design has created a highly contemporary store which makes much use of product imagery both as posters and on TV/video displays.

say ‘I really like that’ and had a sale as a result,” comments the company’s head of retail Nick Carter.

Stand alone display cabinets with excellent internal lighting are proving popular this season for The Jewellery Display Company.

Another feature of this store is its large product posters. These are photographed in-house and changed every six months to reflect current product trends. “Lots of the shops around here don’t invest and they look as if they haven’t had money spent on them in years. We want to stand out and although it’s expensive we don’t mind investing.

We want to create a great environment for our customers,” says Carter.

For Miltons spending money on keeping their four stores looking fresh is an essential element in their yearly budgets. “Customers need absolute confidence in us and having tatty, dark and dirty shops isn’t going to impress. Getting and maintaining the right look is expensive but it’s worth every penny,” he says.

Getting the lighting right

How much does it cost?

If a full refit is out of your league, what can you do to create a fresh feel without breaking the bank? The answer it would seem is lighting. “I think lighting is the key for any jeweller’s window and it amazes me

Doing a complete refit is never going to be cheap and many retailers are coy about just how much they have spent on their refurbishments, Sophie Fulford is however refreshingly upfront about her project. “We had to draw up a budget as part of the initial business plan because we had to go out and get funding for the expansion. We initially estimated what it would cost because we thought we would do it in phases, but once we got going each brand wanted to be in ‘Phase 1’ and so any other phases disappeared. What was initially going to take three months and cost £300,000 ended up taking seven months and costing £500,000,” she told The Jeweller.

Jonathan Stonor was not prepared to talk actual money but cheerfully admitted that his cost estimation was ‘blown out of the water’ partly because he forgot about stamp duty and renewed his lease at the same time.

This season’s fashion colours of rich browns and camels are a perfect foil for silver and platinum. These elegant suede-style busts are from The Jewellery Display Company.

The Voice of the Industry 73

| Feature how dull some stores still look on the high street. We mostly use LEDs and lots of them. I have mixed the windows with two different bulbs to spread the light evenly and I am very happy with the outcome,” says Jonathan Stonor.

Sophie Fulford has also invested heavily in the lighting department describing what she has in store as: “Amazing and there is lots of it!”

“This is a huge area with lots of new developments coming through. We work closely with the lighting manufacturers and use lots of LED lights although you can still get plenty of sparkle with low voltage and halogen bulbs as well. Jewellers shop windows are always a challenge because you are battling with daylight. It’s all about creating a feeling of warmth and being clever by using lighting to create focal points,” explains Joanne Coleman.

Keeping safe Another key element of store design which simply cannot be overlooked in these troubled times is security. All those companies to which I spoke had taken great pains to ensure that safety was at the heart of their new

74 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

store designs. This was especially true for Winsor Bishop which has suffered two armed robberies in recent times and used their refit as an opportunity to install CCTV throughout the entire building, offices, staffing areas, strong room and basement. It also had a laser alarm system installed.

Private niches where customers and staff can discuss high value sales are a feature in many of today’s most successful jewellery store designs such as these at Phillip Stoner (above) and Peter Jackson the Jewellers (below)

| Feature Stonors used their refit as an opportunity to up the ante in security terms introducing a new intruder system, fire alarm and CCTV as well as more powerful automatic locked doors with an intercom system.

Haywood Milton also acknowledges that in his business there is always the threat of robbery and that security is an ongoing concern. “Giddings saves us so much time in this respect. They make sure we have the right glass and the right systems in place,” he says.

There are new technologies coming through all the time to make jewellery stores safer. While bulletproof glass is still only available in relatively small sheets, strengthened glass that meets the insurance companies’ criteria, is improving all the time and is now available in extremely large panels, both flat and curved, allowing store designers to create huge, safe,

feature windows. Some safety glasses – such as the one used by Giddings in a range of new showcases for Breitling – are a special ply laminate and, while being thin enough not to cause distortion of the objects within the cases, nevertheless offer incredible protection.

Where to begin Refitting a shop – whatever style you choose – is an enormous event and is something that most jewellers will only attempt perhaps two or three times during their lifetime. So what advice can the experts provide to help those contemplating a change make sure they get it right? “You can’t reinvent your company over night or you will frighten away your existing customers, you need to have a vision and to understand what sort of environment will appeal to them,” says Joanne Coleman.

Display tips for Christmas Judy Head is a consultant with many years retail experience who runs display courses for NAG members. Here are her quick, easy and cost-effective tips for making your Christmas displays really shine.

Problem solvers Many shoppers – particularly men – are looking to have present ideas suggested to them. Group together suitable gifts for different categories of shopper and sign these clearly – for example take a couple of pens, some cufflinks and a watch or two and label them ‘Presents for the chaps’. You could also do groups for teenagers and women or try grouping gifts at certain price points. It pays to make shopping easy.

A picture speaks 1000 words Replace some of your pads with images and messages. There are many free, romantic, lifestyle images available online and these, printed off and encased in plain plastic stands or laminated by your local copy shop accompanied by some simple messages (for example ‘Anniversary Rings’) may just strike a chord and prompt a sale.

Keep changing your display Don’t do your Christmas window in November and think ‘that’s done’. Keep it fresh by adding new products, or changing the colour of your display materials, on a regular basis.

Don’t empty the safe on day one – have less on show and change it more often.

Check out your lighting There is nothing quite like good lighting to create an extra twinkle in your Christmas window. Upgrading your lights need not be expensive and can make all the difference.

Forget the tinsel Chuck out the tinsel and silver balls; they aren’t going to entice customers in. Try to complement the festive season by introducing some interesting props in festive colours or by creating an unusual theme that will really catch the eye of passersby.

76 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

These cabinets created by Giddings Design for Breitling worldwide use a new super-thin safety glass which provides tremendous protection without distorting the view of the product within.

“There is no one look for now,” says Mark Giddings. “It varies according to your target market – what is right for London’s West End may be wholly inappropriate for a specific high street location. We created a shop in Central London for a designer jeweller who was targeting a different market to all the neighbouring retailers. He wanted a look where perhaps 95 per cent of people passing would say ‘that’s not for me’ but the important five per cent, who are his preferred customer base, will be immediately drawn in.

It’s all about differentiation – you need to recognise your market and design to suit.”

“Strengthened glass now available in extremely large panels allowing store designers to create huge, safe, feature windows.”

It is however also about paying a great deal of attention to layout – the positioning of safes, overstock, box storage and till points. It is also about not simply designing for today but making your design as flexible as possible to allow stock to change over the coming years. It is also, if your budget is tight, about focusing on those things which will provide the best return because that after all is the whole point of doing it in the first place.

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The Voice of the Industry 77

| Opinion: Harriet Kelsall

Collaboration – the key to tightening up our ethical act t couldn’t be more than 10 years ago that the only people talking about ethically sourced products had bohemian style and were a real ‘type’. Back then, if you wanted Fairtrade clothing it had to be unevenly woven, shapeless garments in hessian and cotton… not really my ‘look’.

It was as though producers and designers had decided that the only people interested in ethical issues dressed in an indie manner.

Elegant, classic or even ‘ordinary’ style people with quiet politics weren’t considered likely to be interested at that point.

However, things have finally moved on.

You can buy many great ‘Fairtrade’ products now – from beautiful clothes (no hessian in sight), cooking oil, cashew nuts, biscuits… to now, of course, gold. Fairtrade customers are no longer ‘niche’ because actually more than three in 10 people are shopping for Fairtrade products.

However I do still sometimes feel that a few of the people involved with ethical issues are largely mistrustful of those who wear suits and talk corporate language, like those in the Responsible Jewellery Council.

I hate corporate language too, but this doesn’t mean that those who speak it are automatically wrong. And actually, Fairtrade gold and the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) are capable of coexisting just fine.

Fairtrade and Fairmined gold was launched worldwide on 14th February 2011 by the Fairtrade Foundation (a not-for-profit organisation) and 20 UK jewellers, including my company.

The Fairtrade principle is that its logo guarantees to consumers that producers (e.g. farmers or miners) in developing countries are given a fair and sustainable price for their products. So this scheme doesn’t attempt to fix the entire industry but instead they work with specific small scale artisan

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78 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

miners to provide gold into the market and the provenance is known to the public.

The RJC is a separate, international, not-forprofit organisation. It brings together large and small companies across the precious metal supply chain (including the miners) with a view to all working together to improve practices. To be a member you need to have been fully audited and certified as complying to a strict code of conduct.

The RJC is trying to provide standards and systems which help the industry improve their environmental and ethical act, in a kind of grand, overarching way. Someone in the watch industry recently said that going through a RJC audit is like doing a ‘medical’ for your company which I thought was well put.

This audit is about looking at what you are doing as a company – like how you treat your staff, whether you have the right procedures in place for UK law, whether you have the right kind of employment contracts in place, your health and safety policy – and whether these are being done responsibly. The RJC doesn’t do the checking – it just provides the standard to check yourself against.

Lisa Snowdon models a Harriet Kelsall Fairtrade/Fairmined pendant

Recently the RJC launched its ‘Chain of Custody Certification’ which mining companies can join. This looks at where the materials actually originate from and seeks ‘responsible’ sources. Last month it also announced that it is happy to recognise Fairtrade and Fairmined gold as a ‘responsible mining standard’ for its chain of custody of precious metals.

Collaboration is clearly the way forward.

Over the years I have come across many people in the industry who insist that if they can’t offer all of their products as ethically made, then they won’t offer anything ethical because it somehow devalues the rest of their stuff. I see this as a cop out.

Actually I am an example of this being wrong – because we are not just a Fairtrade company. We are all about choice for our customers; it’s what bespoke is all about.

I don’t ram my own opinions about ethics down people’s throats just because my name is above the door – that wouldn’t fit with our business model.

I don’t ram my own opinions about ethics down people’s throats just because my name is above the door…

I like to educate our customers, explain the options and then let them decide. We can use Fairtrade gold or ‘standard’ gold. But actually more and more are choosing Fairtrade realising this is an important way they can affect the planet.

I really respect the brilliant designer/makers around who have totally ethical businesses, only working in the (growing) handful of ethical materials or gemstones available. But even if it isn’t right for you to be completely ethical in your own business, it is possible to offer both, just as supermarkets do – and customers will choose. In our experience increasingly they choose ethical – it’s a growth area.

I am a great supporter of Fairtrade – it’s brilliant. However, I don’t think that it is enough to simply support Fairtrade gold and those artisanal miners. I also think that we in the jewellery industry need to tighten up our own ethical act as much as we can and I believe the RJC can be a big part of that.

Small steps in the right direction are worth taking, as well as big ones.

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| Security

NAG’s Retail Security Conference proves to be a smashing hit!

Held at Watford’s Buildings Research Establishment last month, the NAG’s first Retail Security Conference was a great hit with attendees and hope this will be an annual event geared toward tackling jeweller-related crime. Miles Hoare reports. upported by our headline sponsor SmartWater, and held in conjunction with insurers TH March, the conference brought together a number of the security industry’s biggest counterparts with expert testers from the BRE to give jewellers a crash course in everything they need to know about staying safe.

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80 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Quoting Albert Einstein’s famous adage on insanity, NAG CEO Michael Hoare kicked off proceedings with a warning: “Criminals are constantly learning – what we do is keep doing the same things, and expecting different results. This is something the jewellery industry needs to change.” This warning served to outline the premise of

the day: jewellers and business owners must constantly update security measures to beat the criminals at their own game.

The sentiment duly noted, Dick Hanks of SaferGems and the BSIA (who spent 30 years in the Police Force) explained how his move from law-enforcement to cashin-transit security provided the jewellery industry with SaferGems: “We had a scheme called SaferCash, which built up a database of incidents against the cash-in-transit industry and shared this information with the 53 police forces in the UK. When Michael Hoare and Michael Ferraro came to me in 2006-7 to discuss a security solution for the jewellery industry, I realised SaferCash was the perfect model!”

Hanks outlined several recent SaferGems successes with scenarios where it has helped arrest and convict criminals, before adding: “Over the coming years we hope to involve even more jewellers UK-wide in sharing information about criminals and to help bring those acting against the industry to justice.”

Next on the stand was Richard Flint, the BRE’s Physical Security Certification Scheme manager and one of the UK’s leading experts in the detailed analysis of testing standards, timings and tools used by criminals. He put to the test many preconceptions held about certain security products and attendees received a crash-course in the test ratings that jewellers, with high-value goods, should be looking for.

A man of facts and figures, Flint outlined the kind of security and safety standards, focusing mainly on the detection, delay and response cycle. He outlined how “a security plan should provide a way of detecting a robbery or theft, calling for police assistance and how various security barriers deter or delay criminals until assistance arrives on the scene.” He discussed how the BRE tests take into account “the different tools used by criminals… depending on whether they want to perform a quick job with a concealed weapon or they know they need certain tools and can afford to get them to site.”

Safes were next under the spotlight. Mike Palmer, safe specialist and chairman of Eurosafe UK enlightened the audience on a number of issues surrounding the use of safes and the standards applied to certain types (especially cheap ones that can be opened using only a potato apparently!)

Security | Giving a brief history of safes and their recent categorisation under European Union guidelines, Palmer explained the pitfalls of these standards, and how the British safe industry took it upon itself to raise them.

Attendees also heard from Aron Craven of SmartWater about its forensic spray systems. He pointed to incidents in which it can be particularly effective – referring to its campaign featuring Donal McIntyre with the slogan: “Criminals say SmartWater is bad for business.” It follows a statement made by notorious gang leader Dominic Noonan – and shows why 97 per cent of SmartWater-protected businesses remain untouched.

“Criminals are constantly learning – what we do is keep doing the same things, and expecting different results. This is something the jewellery industry needs to change.”

effective fogging systems can keep staff and customers safe, while also forcing criminals from the premises. He explained the advanced technical specifications of the fogging device, showing live CCTV imagery of real incidents taking place and details of 16 incidents where Fog Bandit has halted robberies in-progress.

“Bandit can fill your store with an effective fog cloak within 8-10 seconds. Unlike other systems, it is pressurised, so once the activation is hit it takes only 0.4 of a second before the fog cloak is activated, giving the store owner control over the situation. As a lot of robberies rely on power and control, it’s a way of saying to the robber ‘I’m taking over the situation’. Fog is often seen as a daytime deterrent – however, Bandit can now be used 24/7 when linked with an in-house alarm and response system,” Chrismas added.

Particularly enjoyable was the afternoon’s demonstrations, which featured products from Warrior Doors, Essex Glass, Fog Bandit and InSafe UK. If you like watching a man attack a piece of protected glass with a sledgehammer for 10 minutes with little success BRE is definitely the place to go!

Delegates were treated to three separate demonstrations – two detailing how the BRE tests protective glass and safes and another showing the effectiveness of Fog Bandit in a confined space.

The NAG would like to thank our partner TH March and headline sponsor SmartWater for hosting the day. We’d also like to acknowledge exhibitors Fog Bandit UK, InSafe, Romag, Checkpoint Systems and SmartWater and Warrior Doors, InSafe, Essex Glass and Bandit UK for our product demonstrations.

SaferGems: the story so far Nobody knows the total number of jewellery outlets in the UK, but going by the commonly accepted figure there are about 7,500 potential SaferGems members nationwide, if you include retail jewellers, manufacturers, pawnbrokers and distributors.

So far, from a standing start in June 2009, we have increased our circulation list to over 4,500 which is over half of our potential target. So there is still work to be done! However since day one we have recorded over 300 suspicious incidents and more than 1,500 crimes; circulated almost

It’s a science thing. “Each solution is a uniquely generated code that relates to your premises, so police can use our solution to track traces left on the criminals, back to a certain incidents,” Craven explained. “The solution itself is near impossible to remove from clothing and trainers, and can remain on the skin for up to a month, or longer, in some cases. You only need to get a drop the size of a full-stop on your skin or clothing to be retraced to a certain crime at a specific period of time.”

Following lunch, BRE associate Martin Aris’ talk focused on how to get the best out of an alarm transmission system and what test standards jewellers should expect for their money. He focused on the delay time between an alarm system triggering and the time and routes it takes in relaying that signal to both the proprietor and the police.

He outlined what primary and secondary relay devices worked best – and what standards would get the most out of an alarm system.

A number of live case studies from Bandit UK – presented by Neil Chrismas, sales director of Bandit UK – detailed how

The Voice of the Industry 81

| Security including attacks on travelling representatives – between them totaling over £7m, and featuring 12 incidents where firearms have been seen or intimated. Thankfully that is down from 17 in total during 2011, but of concern are the 21 robberies recorded against Asian-owned jewellery stores – with over £4m of goods stolen – and 15 robberies on pawnbrokers. Arrests have taken place, but 22ct. gold traders remain vulnerable.

Good news

Not only has the recent sharp increase in the price of precious metals made stock more valuable and easier to dispose of but, while we’ve been busy making our shops more welcoming, traditional targets like banks and cash couriers have upped their game – what’s known as target hardening.

600 alerts, and over 150 analytical reports to police and we’ve been directly involved in or assisted police with at least 35 arrests and convictions. We’re also attending regular ACPO Commercial Robbery Working Group meetings, and as a result, crime against the jewellery industry has been written into the government’s UK Threat Assessment. We also continue to share information with law enforcement agencies and our counterparts in Europe and the USA. So, not too bad for just over three years’ work, but I think the reality is there’s still a lot to do before we can claim to have stemmed the rising tide of crime against the sector. Not wishing to be alarmist, but over the last decade we’ve become an increasingly attractive proposition for the criminally minded. Not only has the recent sharp increase in the price of precious metals made stock more valuable and easier to dispose of but, while we’ve been busy making our shops more welcoming, traditional targets like banks and cash couriers have upped their game – what’s known as target hardening. Anyway, now that

82 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

you have to give three days notice to take out a couple of grand and the cash dispenser only contains about twenty thousand quid, it’s hardly worth all the aggro of robbing a bank! If you don’t believe me, just look at the losses.

Up until September this year the Cash and Valuables in Transit (CViT) sector had recorded 460 attacks amounting to losses totalling just under £7m. In contrast, SaferGems recorded 515 incidents during the same period, with losses conservatively estimated at over £14 million – or double the value. So there is no room for complacency; but on the plus side the CViT sector has reduced its losses from over £20m in 2006 to its present level by adopting similar measures to SaferGems.

The SaferGems story so far this year is that up until 1st October 548 suspicious incidents attacks and attempts were reported – or an average of 60 reports a month. The figures are by no means definitive, but the team reckons to have recorded about 90 per cent of incidents against jewellers and pawnbrokers. Of those, 71 were robberies –

The following story appeared in the delightfully named ‘Cumbria Crack’ online newspaper on 11th October, 2012: Woman jailed for theft of £28,000 ring. A Romanian woman who stole a £28,000 ring from a jewellers’ shop in Keswick has been jailed for 12 months. 43-year-old Bacana Adam went into The Necessary Angel, the boutique jewellery shop in Packhorse Lane, Keswick, on May 1, asked to look at the most expensive ring in the shop - and then walked out with it! Adam, of Morris Road, Birmingham, pleaded guilty at Carlisle Crown Court to stealing the diamond and platinum ring. The court heard she had similar convictions for offences all over the country. Judge Paul Batty QC described her as “a professional criminal who travels the length and breadth of the country” looking for soft targets.

Of course the story was a little more complicated than that, and some readers may remember the SaferGems alert – 56.12 (03.05.12) – however it’s rewarding to know that the system works. Having been caught on CCTV committing her crime, images of Adam were circulated to police forces and SaferGems, where our intelligence officer identified her as a known suspect and gave the ‘heads up’ to the investigating officer, who in turn flagged the suspect as ‘wanted’ on the police national database. As a result she was arrested in the West Midlands, and the rest is history – or rather 12 months in nick! Don’t you just love it when a plan comes together!

w w w. s a f e r g e m s . o r g . u k

Ask not what we can do for you but what together we can do for the benefit of all. . .

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS is the largest and most active trade association in the Jewellery industry.

Representing retailers within this sector for well over 100 years, we work together with our members to promote the highest level of ethical, professional practice in the UK Jewellery sector through ‘Education’, ‘Representation’ and ‘Communication’.

Today the potential and pitfalls of the jewellery industry are as complex as they are challenging and as the industry’s major trade association, the NAG is committed to providing our members with the necessary tools and information to ensure their businesses are best equipped to take advantage of the challenges ahead.

Indeed we are, and have been, at the forefront of many industry matters – either contesting, debating or discussing the key issues that effect our members and the industry as a whole; whether it’s ‘The Kimberley Process’, ‘FairTrade Gold’, ‘CIBJO’, ‘Ethical Jewellery’ or ‘Action for Market Towns’ to name a few, the views of our membership are always well represented at the ‘top table’.

Plus, more recently, the NAG has developed member initiatives such as ‘Safergems’ (in conjunction with TH March to improve the fight against crime), the ‘Executive Development Forum’ (a member forum committed to sharing ideas and improving sales) and the ‘Institute of Registered Valuers’ (setting standards for professional valuers). Add the NAG’s industry renowned JET I & 2 Education and Training online courses to the list, as well as publishing its very own magazine The Jeweller, and it is clear to see the NAG is proactively involved in all aspects of the trade.

The NAG is your voice and your trade association for the UK Jewellery industry – collectively and together we can work to achieve a better industry for everyone.

If you would like to find out what working together can achieve for the benefit of all, please call Amy Oliver on 020 7613 4445 and find out about the different membership schemes available to retailers, manufacturers and designers.

Education • Representation • Communication www.jewellers-online.org

| Antique Jewellery

Antique JEWELLERY Beautiful Belperron Jo Young charts the dramatic life and work of the celebrated Parisian designer Suzanne Belperron. t is, perhaps, one of the great curiosities of twentieth century jewellery design that so many of its biggest and most beloved names are men. Jewellery as an art form, or as an expression of taste, is a predominantly female preoccupation, but the fact remains that, in terms of designers and makers there have historically been very few famous female names in the jewellery world.

Suzanne Belperron, however, is one of those names. The Parisian designer was, from the time she first began creating her own work in the first half of the twentieth century through to the end of her life in the 1980s and beyond, a celebrated name, her work loved and bought by some of the best known jewellery collectors and celebrities of the day.

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The low-key designer Despite enjoying the patronage of some of the world’s best known jewellery collectors, Belperron’s name remains little recognised today. Indeed, during the much-celebrated auction of the Duchess of Windsor’s jewellery collection in 1987, during which Belperron’s name was tentatively ‘rediscovered’ and in which work from all the leading designers of the day were put up for sale, only five of 16 Belperron pieces were properly identified.

She herself never actually sought fame and recognition, a point that is indisputably evident from the fact that her work was never signed. When asked why she chose not to put her name to her jewellery, Belperron is said to have (somewhat loftily) answered, “My style is my signature”.

Beginnings Belperron was born Madeleine Suzanne Vuillerme in 1900, in the a town called Saint-Claude in the Jura Mountains of Eastern France, very near the border with Switzerland at Geneva. Rather fittingly, the Jura region was an important region for traditional crafts, and Saint-Claude itself a centre of diamond cutting – the ideal environment, perhaps, in which to foster the talents and imagination of a fledgling young designer. It seems that Belperron did show signs of a precocious gift as a designer, and as a young woman she was encouraged by her family to follow a creative path, enrolling in her late teens in the School of Fine Arts in Besançon. At the age of 18, while studying watch and jewellery

84 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

design at the school, Belperron won first prize in the prestigious art school’s Decorative Art competition.

In 1919, like many ambitious artists and designers of the time, Belperron made the move to Paris, and was soon taken on as a modelist-designer by Jeanne Boivin of Maison Bouvin. Boivin had lost her husband René (and the jewellery house its founder) only a few years previously, a death that had left a creative vacuum at the heart of this wellestablished and respected jewellery house.

Jeanne Boivin and Suzanne Belperron had a particularly close relationship, and Jeanne is generally credited with having given Belperron her start in the jewellery world, fostering her talent and encouraging her creatively. The widowed elder woman apparently regarded Belperron as being “like a daughter”, giving an enviable degree of creative freedom to a person who was, after all, a new draughtswoman and employee.

Belperron’s creations first began appearing under the Boivin name from 1920, based on designs that she had begun working on while still a student in Besançon.

Rejecting Deco What makes Belperron’s jewellery design at this time stand out is the fact that she was producing work at the height of the Art Deco period. While much of the jewellery world was going crazy for the geometric patterns and bold structured style of Deco jewellery, Belperron was following a different path, exploring large statement jewellery comprised

Antique Jewellery | of round, curved shapes and softer lines, that went against the dominant, more refined ‘look’ of the day. Her work was both sexy and oddly modern – even more so, strangely, than the self-consciously modernist style of Art Deco. It is this modern freshness that collectors of Belperron jewellery say that they most appreciate about her jewellery today; hers is a style that doesn’t seem to really ‘date’.

Whether Belperron chose to design as she did purely to be different, because she was bored with Art Deco or for other more personal reasons, one thing is clear: she was a designer who was confident in her own taste, her own talent and her own design aesthetic from an enviably early age. Indeed by 1924, Belperron was the co-director of the Boivin jewellery house, at just 23 years of age.

What a good year 1924 must have been for Belperron: as well as finding success in her professional life, it was also the year that she was married: to an engineer, Jean Belperron, from the same Jura region as herself. The couple married in Besançon, but moved soon after to a house in the Montmartre area of Paris.

A period of relative stability followed, during which Belperron continued to design under the Boivin name. It was at this time that she began to make a name for herself for her work with precious stones and gemstones. She chose to work with stones little used by other designers, such as chalcedony, smoky quartz and rock crystal, and did so in unusual ways: creating jewellery from stones that have been carved into undulating shapes, for example, or where gemstones have been set into other stones or crystal shapes, for example. The effect is at once delicate and disarming.

Emerging from the shadows By the 1930s, Belperron was a well known designer and celebrated beauty and society figure – the move to Montmartre had placed her and her husband at the very centre of the Parisian artistic world, and she counted several designers, painters and writers among her friends.

It is clear that Belperron wanted to begin spreading her own creative wings – and perhaps seeing her work attributed to her own name rather than helping to enhance that of the Boivin house – since in early 1932 she took up a new job with Bernard Herz, a renowned precious stone dealer.

Belperron had known Bernard Herz for years, since he was a long-time supplier of the Maison Boivin. He offered her the chance to work for him but, crucially, to have free reign creatively; to be an “exclusive, unique and recognised designer-creator”.

Belperron set up a private salon in Paris, where clients would meet with her and commission individual pieces of work. She also hired Adrien Louart, a famous stonecutter, to work with her, and appointed the firm Groëné et Darde as her exclusive manufacturers. She was able to be even more experimental in her approach to design, leaving behind rigid lines altogether to focus on organic objects and shapes.

Her work began to include carved stones and simple, delicate organic shapes like butterflies, petals and fruits, which she often set with diamonds or other stones.

Her influences were eclectic, her motifs drawn from a range of global sources –

from Celtic patterns to Egyptian symbols to African shapes and colours.

It was during the 1930s, while working for Herz, that Suzanne Belperron’s reputation really soared. She became well known within the artistic world both in her native France as well as elsewhere around the world. Her work began to be included in influential fashion magazines like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, alongside such well-established names as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron, and her designs were hugely popular; she enjoyed the patronage of several of the big names in the arts and ‘high society’ of the day.

Fashionista favourite Belperron’s clients, along with the usual glittering rollcall of artists, actresses and singers, royals and aristocrats, included the influential Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, who was also a close friend of the designer.

Herself a major figure in the history of fashion, having Vreeland’s support obviously helped establish Belperron as a must-have designer name. Some of those known to have bought or worn Belperron during her 1930s heyday included various Rothschilds, the Duchess of Windsor, as well as Josephine Baker, Merle Oberon, Jean Cocteau and Gary Cooper, and fashion names such as Nina Ricci, Christian Dior and Jeanne Lanvin.

For Belperron, the 1930s were really the best of years; she was the toast of Parisian high society, her work was in huge demand and she was fast becoming one of the most prominent jewellers in Paris.

The Voice of the Industry 85

| Antique Jewellery The tragic end for Herz Of course, the end of the decade brought disaster to Europe, to Paris and, tragically, to the Herz business itself. Almost as soon as the Nazi occupation of Paris began, the arrest and interrogation of high profile Jewish Parisians began. As a prominent businessman of some wealth and social standing, it did not take long for Bernard Herz to come to the Gestapo’s attention. He was first arrested in 1941, along with Suzanne Belperron. They were ‘accused’ of operating a company under a Jewish name – something that had, of course, just become a crime in the German-occupied city under the legislation ‘Statute on Jews’, passed in October 1940.

Suzanne Belperron had, under the instructions of Bernard Herz, taken over full control of the company in November 1940 as a way of ensuring the company’s survival, but following Bernard Herz’s first arrest in 1941, the pair decided that she would establish a new company under her own name, as a way of getting around the discriminatory law.

With the help of some of her rich and influential friends, Belperron was able to secure both her own and Herz’s release when they were first arrested, but on 2nd November 1942 Herz was arrested a second time and hauled in front of the Gestapo for further questioning. Suzanne Belperron was arrested too, having been anonymously denounced as ‘dissimulating a Jewish business’.

The story has it that, while en route to the Gestapo headquarters, and not knowing what horror lay ahead, Belperron swallowed all the pages of Bernard Herz’s address book, page by page.

Following his interrogation, Bernard Herz was transferred straight to the notorious Drancy internment camp, after which, in late 1943, he was deported to Auschwitz.

86 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

Tragically, Bernard Herz died at Auschwitz, but not before sending Belperron a very poignant letter. In February 1943, from the Drancy camp, Herz wrote a letter entrusting all his affairs to Belperron, and asking her to look after and protect the interests of his two children, Aline and Jean. The designer was as good as her word. Despite the danger to herself – including repeated harassment from the Gestapo – and despite the difficulties of continuing a jewellery business during wartime, Belperron kept the business going.

She turned down several offers of escape to the US, and stayed in Paris and continued to work. She found time, however, to join the Resistance.

In December 1946, Bernard Herz’s son Jean returned to Paris, having spent a period of time as a prisoner of war. Fittingly, and in accordance with the final wishes of his father, Jean Herz was given half ownership of the firm, which was called Jean Herz-Suzanne Belperron. Belperron and the younger Herz then ran a successful partnership, working happily together for a further 30 years.

Her style When jewellery fans think of Belperron, they tend to think of colour: she was a master of the use of coloured stones, and did not shy away from using bold, unusual colour and stone combinations in her jewellery. In fact, she pioneered the technique of setting precious stones in semi-precious materials.

Even today, when you come across, say, a ring made from rock crystal and set with a series of small diamonds, the effect is quite startling. Even today, her work sets her apart as being daring and unusual.

Belperron was also quite unafraid of combining styles and influences in a way that more conservative and traditional designers would baulk at. Though she liked soft, organic shapes and was inspired (like so many) by nature, she was nonetheless as brave as a designer as she apparently was in life, and she allowed herself to find inspiration from everywhere: the East, Oceania and Ancient Egypt, to name a few.

Frustratingly for collectors, of course, it is the

very eclectic nature of her work, along with her stubborn refusal to sign her work, that has made her pieces so difficult to identify in the years since her death.

The end In the summer of 1963, Suzanne Belperron was made a Knight of the Légion d’Honneur, which is one of the highest accolades awarded in France. She was given the title in recognition of her work during the war, and as such it was given to her

by Jean Marchat, a close friend and member of the Resistance.

In 1970 Belperron’s husband died and four years after that she and Jean Herz agreed amicably to dissolve their joint company. The Herz-Belperron business was liquidated at the end of 1975, effectively marking the end of a 55 year career in jewellery design.

Though she continued to work privately for friends, conducting valuations and the like, she resisted any proposals to continue working, or to have her work picked up and continued by others.

In 1983, at the age of 82, Belperron died, not quietly and peacefully, sadly, but through a nasty accident in the bath – circumstances that echo the drama that had helped shape the course of her life.

The Belperron name today Though Belperron herself had little interest in seeing her name continued, others after her death have been keen to see her style resurrected. Having long been an admirer of her work, Ward Landrigan, the former head of Sotheby’s jewellery department and the owner of the Verdura name, purchased her archive of designs in 1999, and his son Nico Landrigan is planning to produce new work using her design work as a source.

Certainly there would seem to be demand – interest in Belperron’s work is high, as a recent sale of her own jewellery proved.

In Spring 2012, Belperron’s personal collection was unearthed, and was sold in Geneva. The 60-lot sale went for around three times the original estimate, bringing in more than US$3.4m on the hammer.

Regular |

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

little different. Created by the publishing arm of the luxury lifestyle/concierge company Quintessentially, this coffee table volume is a curated assemblage of the world’s most collectible jewellers and the stories behind them. It opens with the exclusive (and elusive) JAR and continues with names such as Shawish, Leviev, Theo Fennell, Ming, Boucheron and Chopard. Bringing things right up to date is a section on names to watch and includes the UK’s own Sarah Ho of SHO Fine Jewellery. Appropriately, given the title, the book also includes a piece on gemstones from the perspective of ethical mining company Gemfields.

The New Jewelers by Olivier Dupon (£24.95, Thames & Hudson) This book does what it says on the tin – it’s an introduction to a host of contemporary designer makers; over 100 of them working across the globe. The author owns his own jewellery boutique, so the aim is simply to showcase those jewellers who have inspired him (rather than offer an in-depth analysis on the work revealed). There are nine

categories, ranging from ‘Glam’ to ‘NeoClassicist’ to ‘Avante Garde’, although Dupon must have struggled a little with which designers to place where – it’s a pretty subjective categorisation in some cases. Each designer is profiled, his or her influences and methods of working outlined, along with photos of recent pieces.

Sales & Exhibitions

16th-18th: Desire, The Guildhall, Winchester Mixed media contemporary jewellery and silversmithing fair of over 60 makers including Paul Spurgeon and Martyn Pugh. www.desirefair.com

we regard as precious and how jewellery can be worn. www.designmuseum.org

22nd-25th: Made in Clerkenwell, Winter Open Studios at Craft Central London EC1 100 designers of jewellery, fashion, crafts and accessories. http://craftcentral.org.uk

November 21st-24th: Dubai International Jewellery Week, Dubai World Trade Centre, UAE Global and regional manufacturers showing in three distinct shows. www.jewelleryshow.com

November 5th Nov-6th Jan: Dazzle, National Theatre, London A showcase of contemporary jewellery and watches from new and established designers. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com 9th Nov-31st December: Dazzle, Royal Exchange Theatre, Manchester Christmas gift ideas from stocking fillers to budget-blowers. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com 14th-23rd: The Glory of Gold, Kojis, The Royal Exchange, London EC3 In collaboration with Italian jewellery brand Vendorafa, this specialist antique jewellery store is staging a selling exhibition that highlights gold jewellery dating from pre-Christian times to the present day. Included are rare preColumbian necklaces (700-1530 AD) for those with deep pockets. Local boutique hotel Threadneedles is supporting the event with a ’Columbian Gold’ menu and cocktail. www.kojis.co.uk

The Collector’s Guide – Quintessentially Gems by Tamara Kaminsky (£25, Quintessentially Publishing) There are many books that explore the world of gems and fine jewellery, but this one is a

30th-2nd Dec: Open Studios, Cockpit Arts, London WC1 and, from 7th-9th Dec, SE8 Mingle with 165 makers of jewellery, fashion and homeware over a glass of mulled wine. www.cockpitarts.com Autumn 2012 – Spring 2013: Treasures of the Middles Ages, Archaeological Museum, Brandenburg an der Havel, Germany 440 pieces of precious and bronze jewellery from Slavic cemeteries, medieval castle walls and digs. www.landesmuseum-brandenburg.de

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

26th-25th GeMin 2012: Royal Olympic, Athens, Greece Gemstones, silver and gold jewellery, minerals, fossils, books and instruments. www.gemin.eu Screw ring by Karl Fritsch – Design Museum

December 5th Dec-03 Mar 2013: Unexpected Pleasures, Design Museum, London SE1 A celebration of the work of contemporary jewellers who have challenged the conventions of jewellery design, re-evaluating what

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Last Word The Last Word in the final issue of 2012 is handed over to Chris Sellors, managing director of Derbyshire-based jewellery manufacturer and retailer CW Sellors Personal Profile Chris Sellors started the company after completing his jewellery studies in 1979 and at the age of 19 established his first jewellery boutique. He initially spent a lot of time at the bench working with gemstones and producing the jewellery and has worked hard to develop a team of jewellers in both metal and lapidary skills who are still at the heart of the business now. Gemstones – particularly English Blue John and Whitby jet – are a speciality of CW Sellors, which remains a family business; son James and daughter Rebecca now work within the company alongside Chris and wife Diane.

Who has been the biggest influence on your life?

It has to be my father as he gave me a great work ethic, teaching me strong values plus he always worked hard and put in a lot of hours to whatever he was working on.

Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Anywhere new and interesting really – wherever I can discover a new gemstone to work with!

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others?

Driven, imaginative/off-the-wall and creative (I would like to think!).

To what do you attribute your success?

Hard work, determination and fantastic support from the family, team and of course our loyal customers.

If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be?

For an increased amount of customers to be more adventurous in seeing the broad

90 The Jeweller Nov/Dec 2012

range of gemstones available to be used, therefore giving us more challenges to help customers create their own individual style.

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over?

I don’t think there is anything – everything I have done has led me to where I am today and I have learnt from all my experiences.

Tell us something not many people know about you…

I’ve just discovered an interest in gardening… particularly flowers and vegetables. I have always liked to create things, to see the fruits of my labour and that is what I love about it. I can see the result of the work I am putting in and it gives me a chance to reflect and relax.

If not the jewellery industry, what might your alternative career have been?

At the risk of sounding clichéd, having spent many of my formative years practicing the lapidary skills I was to carry on developing in an educational and now professional capacity, I simply cannot think of any other role which would hold such a personal and business appeal. The unique development of the British gemstones with which we work continues to drive me and the business forward, therefore hasn’t presented any reason, or time, to have considered an alternative career.

Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!) Why? New York, without a doubt. The city is so inspirational and cosmopolitan and also it doesn’t always have to be expensive, which is refreshing.

What was the last film you saw at the cinema?

War Horse – it was filmed in Cornwall and the scenery is absolutely beautiful.

What is your chosen form of exercise?

Dog walking but perhaps not quite enough of it.

Quick Fire • Red or white wine? Red • Diamonds or coloured stones?

Coloured stones • White or yellow metal?

It depends what day it is • TV or radio? Radio • Jewellery on men? Yes • Delegator or control freak?

Delegator • Beatles or Rolling Stones?

Rolling Stones • Paperback or e-reader? E-reader

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