Jeweller March Issue 2012 by Zest Europe

the

Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

With input from the British Jewellers’ Association

£6.50

The Voice of The Industry

Exhibition Previews – The Jewellery Show & Baselworld Fairtrade Gold one year on • IRV celebrates 25 years

Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

J A N / F E B

Spring Loaded

Communiqué

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

NAG News

Member of the Month

Education & Training

IRV Review

BJA News

Jeweller Picks

Security

Brand Profile: Clogau Gold

BaselWorld – the mother of all watch and jewellery

BJA Feature

shows – is just weeks away. Belinda Morris canvases

Insurance Matters

Opinion: John Henn

Antique Jewellery

Notebook

Letters

Display Cabinet

The Last Word

The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair is just around the corner – our taster of new sectors, new launches and new events should get you in the mood.

Open for Business

opinions on the industry’s future and previews some of the new collections.

Fairtrade Gold – one year on

With the help of three jewellers Greg Valerio reviews The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

the progress of Fairtrade Fairmined Gold since its

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

January 2011 debut.

The National Association of Goldsmiths

Cover Image In conjunction with Clogau Gold See us at ‘The Jewellery Show/ Spring Fair 2012’, Hall 17 Stand R28 www.clogau.co.uk/springfair

78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk BJA Marketing & PR Manager: Lindsey Straughton lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7613 4445 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian@jewellers-online.org Publishing Enquiries/ Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Mary Brittain, John Henn, Miles Hoare, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

NAG CEO Michael Hoare gives serious consideration to the findings of Mary Portas' review of the British high street… and discovers much food for thought

What Portents for Portas? What proved to be one of the most unpredictable retail trading Christmases of recent times was preceded by the publication of the much anticipated, and slightly delayed, Portas Review. Billed as an ‘independent review into the future of our high streets’ the long awaited document, written by one of the UK’s most gimlet-eyed observers of the retail scene, has generated a plethora of reactions ranging from the banal and dismissive to the considered and constructive; some based on no more than a cursory glance at the ‘bullet point’ summary! But whatever the quality of those observations, the report, appearing at such a volatile time in British retailing history has generated an awful lot of heat – and even a little light! But now with Christmas behind us, and the instant pundits having had their say, it is time to revisit the report’s recommendations and examine the value of their currency. Those with political headlines in mind, like Simon Danczuk, MP for Rochdale, may have urged the government to bring forward its response and take urgent action to counter the high street crisis, but I would council caution. Knee jerk reactions are not the answer. We didn’t get into this mess overnight, and we surely won’t find a magic

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bullet or quick fix in the Portas Review. What we will find in its fifty pages is a prescription containing a bit of nasty-tasting medicine for each of the vested interests locked into the never ending high street struggle, i.e. planners, politicians, landlords, and retailers. As with all medicine the trick is to cure the disease without killing the patient. To ease the pain, and to strain the medical analogy even further, the Portas proposals suggest holistic treatment for the malady. The twitching corpse of the British high street has emotions as well as a collection of organs, and if we don’t want to end up with Frankenstein’s monster we’d better avoid bolts of lightning in my view! Coming to the report as a slight sceptic, eager to find fault with her recommendations, I found my initial doubts allayed by detailed reading of the background material. As she says in the forward ‘whilst I do believe that there are many compelling instances when out of town retail has drained the traffic and retail offer from our own town centres, it would be naïve and far too easy to simply think that they are to blame for the decline of our high streets. The fact is that the major supermarkets and malls have delivered highly convenient, needs-based retailing, which serves today’s consumers well.

Sadly the high streets didn’t adapt as quickly or as well. Now they need to.’ Who would disagree? While most of the comments I have read from the likes of the British Council of Shopping Centres, the Association of Convenience Stores, the British Property Federation, and CBRE (the commercial property and real estate services sector’s

The twitching corpse of the British high street has emotions as well as a collection of organs, and if we don’t want to end up with Frankenstein’s monster we’d better avoid bolts of lightning in my view! retail consultancy), broadly welcome the measures, others have proved less magnanimous. Stuart Rose, once the moving force behind M & S, appearing to accept the status quo, damned the document with faint praise, stating “you can’t defy gravity” and Mary Portas is trying to push water uphill.

Comment | Others were less temperate. Lord Wolfson, of NEXT called the proposal to introduce exceptional signoff for out-of-town developments by the Secretary of State as “just insane.” Gauging by that reaction I predict a standoff between the forces of creeping ubiquity and those who believe that, far from giving a ministerial sign off on such projects, what really matters is that local people have their rights respected. As I have previously opined, my ‘wish list’ contained a restoration of the link between business rates and local services; a fair and transparent planning regime; and meaningful power in the hands of local government. The Portas Review has dealt with these and more. A robust ‘town centre first’ planning policy is to be welcomed, because, as it stands, about 80 per cent of future development is planned for out-of-town. Business rates are one of the biggest barriers to entry and growth on the high street, therefore the Portas proposals are to be applauded; but the challenge will be for government and councils to find suitable funding models. Similarly, more free parking is a laudable aim, plugging the gap in council finances, the potential stumbling block! Addressing the restrictive aspects of the ‘Use Class’ system, making it easier to change the uses of high street properties, will free up space for more appropriate occupiers, including residential users; and may even help ease the housing shortage. Exploring disincentives to prevent landlords leaving units vacant seems an appropriate measure; and a stronger community voice in the planning system has to be a good thing. Overall, I sense that the Portas Review attempts to see the high street in all its aspects, including its societal and community role in providing an expression of and focus for local identity, and not just its economic impact. As stated in the foreword ‘This may sound hopelessly idealistic. But those who see high streets purely as a commercial retail mix need to think again.’ Such sentiments appear to fit right in with the notional concept of ‘big society’ and as such should have resonance in Westminster right now. However, governments of every stripe display an alarming tendency to do either one of two things with ideas that challenge the orthodoxy. Sometimes they try to kick them into the long grass, or bury them in platitudes and forget them – either way they end up gathering dust on a shelf somewhere! Or, they adopt the fun, sexy, headlinegrabbing short term expedients and make them their own, ignoring the difficult and tedious bits – the ‘initiative lite’ approach – and the whole thing goes off half cocked! Personally, I hope that doesn’t happen to this report. It contains some joined-up thinking; involves all parties in the venture; and doesn’t succumb to the blame culture. It won’ be easy to convince those obsessed with growth at all costs, but hey, just because a thing’s difficult, doesn’t make it impossible!

If you have any comments on its contents or the effect on our high streets of its proposals, then please write to me at the usual address. The Portas Review is available in its entirety at: www.maryportas.com

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“It’s important for us to be the first in the know, to report back and to buy the right products; we see what the big trends are for that year.”

Reasons to be cheerful… one, two, three. What, only three? Come on, we can do better than that, surely. It’s a brand new year (ok, by the time you’re reading this it’s quite new) and even the words twenty twelve sound exciting and full of promise to me. Well, there’s a lot going on and it would be churlish (not to mention slouchy) not to take spirited advantage of auspicious events. The combined effect of the London Olympics and Her Majesty’s Diamond Jubilee will bring a great number of foreign tourists to the UK – commercial opportunities will be there for the taking for those who’re prepared. Might be a

Page 68

good idea to enrol in the NAG’s ‘Selling to Chinese Customers’ course (see p22 for details) and be super-ready. Kerching! Spring also means show time. It’s a hard slog of course (chic heels or comfy flats – always a dilemma don’t you find?) but brightened enormously by the prospect of discovering emerging talents, picking out new trends, chewing the fat with industry friends, a possible dance, oh, and placing an order or two… and that’s just my experience! Birmingham and Basel – both previewed in this issue. So, what else? It’s the 25th birthday of the NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers this year – a significant milestone for a very important and effective body. To remind us of how it all began its co-ordinator (from the word go) Sandra Page has gathered together a history of the

“For centuries, to have silver in your home in the form of decorative artefacts, domestic objects and utensils marked you out as very privileged indeed…”

IRV, part one of which can be read this month on p28. Hip hip… Also in this issue ethical jeweller and activist Greg Valerio looks back at the first year of Fairtrade Fairmind Gold with the help of three businesses which have taken it up. Sceptics and cynics abounded and the initiative has not been without its teething issues, but the good news is that it’s making steady progress. All that’s just for starters; 2012 is going to be a great year – let’s talk things up please!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

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The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Christmas trading higher than expected

K retail sales values were 2.2 per cent higher on a like-for like basis from December 2010, when sales had fallen 0.3 per cent, thanks to the severe weather, according to the recently launched British Retail consortium-KPMG Sales Monitor December 2011. On a total basis, sales were up 4.1 per cent against a 1.5 per cent increase in December 2010. On both measures and excluding Easter distortions, sales performance was the best since January. Non-food non-store (internet, mail-order and phone) sales growth picked up sharply from November’s low. Sales were 18.5 per cent up on a year ago, double November’s gain but similar to the 18.0 per cent in December 2010. Stephen Robertson, Director General, British Retail Consortium, said: “A better than hoped-for December closed a relentlessly tough year for retailers, but these figures hinged on a dazzling last pre-Christmas week and were boosted by some major one-off factors. We’re not witnessing any fundamental change in customers’ circumstances.”

8 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Retail sales volumes grew in the year to December for the first time in seven months, though sales were considered poor for the time of year, the CBI added. Publishing its latest monthly Distributive Trades Survey, which covers the first two weeks in December, the business organisation said retailers did not expect December’s modest sales growth to continue into the New Year, with annual sales volumes falling again in January. A straw poll among UK jewellery retailers echoes, in the main, this low-key analysis of Christmas sales. “Trading up to Christmas was pretty much as we expected. Sales were not brilliant in the run up and it was only really the last four days that they increased as they should have – so it was very late,” says Debbie Marshall of Head & Hart, Maidstone. “We have seen this in the past when you have the whole week of trading with the Saturday being Christmas Eve,” she adds. For Hester Clarke, Aylesbury, the weeks leading up to Christmas saw poor sales in

comparison to last year – following on from a year that had already been difficult. “They showed a significant increase on last year during the final week. But bearing in mind we lost the Saturday and Sunday last year due to the dreaded snowfall, it wasn’t that difficult,” she says. “The best-selling items were Trollbeads along with silver jewellery and unusual pieces, with lots of sales in the £200-£300 bracket. There were few sales in the £2,000 plus bracket,” she adds. “It certainly felt as though customers were more ‘financially challenged’ this year. A number of regular customers spent significantly less than usual.” A more positive note has been sounded by jewellery designer/retailer Harriet Kelsall: “We normally have a massive Christmas rush for our bespoke work which starts almost exactly on the 24th October but it started around a week later which was strange but then it got very busy after that,” she reports. “We were busier than ever in December itself. We often quieten down for bespoke jobs from about 10th December onwards but we were super busy with new jobs being started right up until Christmas this year.” Aided by the sales of engagement rings and a new Pandora sales floor, Prestons of Bolton has also bucked the more gloomy trend with reports of a record 19 per cent increase in sales over December 2010. Group managing director Karl Massey cites the company’s ongoing marketing investments (including a TV campaign in December) as key to the growth. Unlike many other retailers on the high street, most jewellers spoken to were not tempted to discount stock in the period before Christmas. “I never have done, I can’t see the point in increasing numbers of customers at a time when the staff are already stretched, especially for less margin,” explains Frank Wood of Braithwaites, York, who reports a disappointing Christmas week “although early December was busier than normal”. “I think that discounting precious jewellery (ever – not just pre Christmas) is a bad idea because it devalues what people perceive that they are paying for. We certainly don’t ever do this for our bespoke jewellery or high end gold, platinum and palladium jewellery and we think it is a big mistake when other jewellers do this too,” says Kelsall.

Industry News |

US Department of State commends RJC he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) of which the NAG is a founding member, has received a submission from the United States Department of State commending the ethical body’s draft proposal for a Chain of Custody (CoC) based on the RJC Standards. In the letter (which can be read in full on the RJC website: www.responsiblejewellery.com) the Assistant Secretary of State for Economic and Business Affairs, José Fernandez recognises the many achievements of the RJC: “We would like to commend the RJC for the impressive work undertaken to develop and implement the Standards and, perhaps more critically, the potential of the Chain of Custody framework under development in recent years. We are encouraged to see the substantial number of companies joining RJC and look forward to seeing further progress on the CoC and its subsequent launch…” Demonstrating its shared commitment to the RJC’s goals the State Department’s letter raises a number of policy issues, regarding the role of the artisanal sector, the small business sector, audits and the role of stakeholders, as being of critical concern.

Danish FSA reprimands Pandora ollowing the reprimand Pandora received from NASDAQ OMX on 22nd December 2011, the Danish Financial Supervisory Authority issued a notice on 11th January 2012 stating that Pandora should have informed the market earlier of its revenue forecasts. (On 2nd August 2011 Pandora announced a change to its financial expectations for the full year stating that it would not meet its earlier forecast of 30 per cent revenue growth.) In response to the FSA’s notice Pandora states that it ‘continues to believe that it acted properly during a swift and unexpected downturn in sales by making a timely and precise announcement adjusting its annual forecast in light of new information and based on analysis of the changing market dynamics in July 2011’ and in addition ‘it has at all times been in full compliance with all relevant rules and regulations for issuers of shares’. This news follows the announcement last month that Pandora has appointed a new CEO, Bjorn Gulden, who takes up the role on 1st March this year. Gulden is currently MD of the Deichmann Group.

Jeweller makes movies oosted by its 2009 success with making it into the Guinness Book of Records with the world’s most valuable Christmas tree bauble (£82,000 worth of white gold encrusted with diamonds and rubies), Hallmark Jewellers of Titchfield has pushed the boat out again, this time by making movies. Posted on YouTube are three short films to demonstrate the process of making wedding bands, the repair and restoration of jewellery and how old jewellery is melted down to make a bangle. Visit: www.youtube.com/user/HallmarkJewellers

S N I P P E T S Second shop for Gilda’s Tryst Gemstone jewellery and accessories designers Shireen Jayyusi and Amanda Waterstone of Gilda’s Tryst have opened a second London shop. The Monmouth Street, Covent Garden outlet – in the heart of theatreland – follows the 2009 opening of the flagship store on Sloane Square and features a split level area where a salon for private consultations has been created. The Gilda’s Tryst collection is a fusion of East meets West aesthetics and comprises bold, statement pieces using coloured stones, freshwater pearls, silver and gold vermeil. Dreyfuss appointment Philip Poole has taken on the role of sales & marketing manager for the Swiss familyowned and run watch company Dreyfuss & Co, which has achieved widespread UK and international distribution for it collection of handmade timepieces at a desirable price point. Poole was previously brand director for Tissot and Swatch and under his guidance Dreyfuss plans to expand both the collection and the distribution of the brand. Retail crime soars The overall cost of retail crime has soared by 31 per cent to £1.4 billion as the sector is increasingly targeted by serious, organised criminals. This figure includes the value of goods stolen and damage done combined with the money retailers spend on preventing and tackling crime. The British Retail Consortium’s Retail Crime Survey 2011, published on 16th January, shows fewer incidents for many types of crime but each incident on average has been more costly and so total losses have increased sharply compared with the previous year. Jochi Nyman passes away

Catherine Jones

(1916-2011)

atherine Jones, founder of Catherine Jones Jewellery in Cambridge and a much-loved figure in the jewellery industry for almost 50 years has died. She began her jewellery business in 1964, graduating from costume jewellery to fine jewellery through the ’70s and ’80s. Since 2003 the business has been run by her daughter Vanessa Burkitt and her grandson Matthew Burkett. A full obituary for Catherine will appear in the March issue of The Jeweller.

The entrepreneur Jochi Nyman, often referred to as Mr Hatton Garden for his financial benevolence and wise counsel, died last month at the age of 76. In the 1990s he worked for the Presman Mastermelt group, which has described him as “an integral part of the success” of the business who “continued to remain a close friend of the company’s directors and staff.”

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Latest auction room gem successes ‘ a Peregrina’, the 16th century pearl suspended from a necklace designed for Elizabeth Taylor by Cartier inspired a fierce bidding war at Christie’s New York on 13th December and sold for $11.8m – a world record for any pearl jewel. In total Miss Taylor’s collection of jewellery achieved £74,196,480 becoming the most valuable jewellery auction in history. Also, despite a difficult economic climate, Bonhams in London and New York both enjoyed successful fine jewellery sales last month. The Bond Street sale on 8th December saw a selection of diamond, natural pearl and important signed pieces realise £4.1m, the top lot being an internally flawless, marquise-cut diamond ring, D colour weighing 9.22 carats that sold for £623,650. The Bonhams New York sale on 13th December was lead by a Cartier Art Deco necklace which made $266,500.

RJC Certification update he Gemmological Institute of America has achieved Reponsible Jewellery Council certification – the first laboratory to do so, while Bulgari and Gucci become the first two Italian members to comply with the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards. In addition the Birmingham Assay Office achieved certification in January along with International Gemological Institute and the following companies have also received RJC certification in the last two months: Argos Ltd, JC Penney, Corona Jewelry, Zenith, IDH Diamonds NV, De toledo Diamonds International BVBA, AC Diam, Pamp SA, Sunnex BVBA, BVBARosy Blue NV, Grospiron, Karp Impex NV, KGK Diamonds and Mishal NV.

New chairman for Sheffield Assay he 238 year old Sheffield Assay Office has appointed a new chairman to oversee the strategic direction of the organisation. Chris Heaton, who co-opted onto the executive of the Office in September 2008, took up the post on 1st January having been a Guardian of the Office since 2009. (Turn to p82 to see our Antique Jewellery feature on Sheffield Plate).

Jeweller dies following burglary AG member Peter Avis, the owner of jewellers WH Collis & Son in Bury St Edmunds, has been murdered following a burglary on his shop. The 66-year old victim was found stabbed to death in a flat above the premises on Friday 13th January. Within 12 hours of the discovery a 34-year old local man was arrested on suspicion of the murder and at the time of going to press three further suspects were being questioned by detectives at Suffolk Police’s headquarters. The jewellery and other items stolen have not as yet been recovered. Mr Avis, a batchelor, took over the business 10 years ago after both of his parents died.

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S N I P P E T S Steven May launches Maygems Following the liquidation of Capital Gems, Steven May, who was an employee of the company for 21 years, has now launched his own company Maygems Ltd. Based in Great Sutton St, London Maygems offers a similar service including gemstone wholesale and jewellery repairs, all using the same workshops, tradesmen and suppliers as used previously by Capital Gems. Maygems also specialises in laser repairs, ring resizing and remounting, retipping, gemstone and diamond supply and set, jewellery polishing and rhodium plating. Fine jeweller at Design Museum shop Central St Martin’s graduate Hannah Martin has become the first fine jewellery designer to have her products stocked in the Design Museum’s shop. One of London’s leading contemporary jewellery designers Martin is renowned for designing bold sculptural pieces with elegant and masculine detailing. The premier collection at the shop will feature pieces from Series One ‘The Shaman’s Triangle’ and includes the iconic ‘Pyramid Ring’ and ‘Triangle Bangle’, which were created using rapid prototyping. Jeweller cycles for charity Jeweller Pete Seeger who works for Milton’s Jewellers of Chester, Birkenhead and Liverpool marked his 60th birthday by taking part in a 200 mile cycle ride in Jordan, raising money for a local charity – Clatterbridge Cancer Research. He finished the journey not only four stones lighter but also as the charity’s fund-raiser of the year having raised £14,800

Celebrating 125 years in business in 2012

| Industry News

Winning Christmas window displays he festive season may be a distant memory now, but here at The Jeweller Towers we’re still celebrating the spirit of Christmas. We asked you to send us snaps of your seasonal windows in all their sparkling glory – and so you did. Thank you to all those who took the time during such a busy period to demonstrate such creativity. If we had the space we’d publish all the photos, however, here are our favourites including the winning display. After much deliberation we are awarding first prize to Berry’s of Leeds (top image) – we loved these windows for the regal and rich purple of the backdrop and displays, accented by the silvery tones of the wreaths. A sophisticated yet simple effect that highlights the benefit of choosing a bi-colour scheme. Well done to the team. Because we found it very difficult to choose just two runners up from the very many lovely windows we looked at, we’ve picked three. So bottles of bubbly will also be on their way to: Fred J Malcolm of Belfast for their old toy shop themed windows (right top); Padani Jewellery Gallery of Tunbridge Wells for what we think is a glamorously sexy look (right centre) and Gordon Rowe of Torquay for the warmth and understatement of their display (right bottom). Honourable mentions should also go to: Lisa Chambers, Stratford-upon-Avon; Chisholm Hunter, Glasgow; TA Henn, Wolverhampton; Finnies, Aberdeen; Warrender, Sutton; Time & Motion Jewellers, Liskeard and Parsons Jewellers, Bristol.

12 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

| NAG News

Training to sell in 2012 n the Education & Training pages of this issue (p22) we have presented a detailed run-down of the key courses that the NAG is offering members for 2012. It's an exciting schedule, made possible to a great extent by one company in particular – Virada Training – and its director, Debbie Barrow is quite certain of the increasing need for sales training for all those in retail today. “It’s more important than ever before for your business to stand out so that today’s customers will buy from you again and again. Debbie Barrow Yet times are changing. Today, life is fast; customers receive more information, more knowledge and have more choice. This has an impact on buying patterns,” she says. As buyers change, selling approaches need to change. It’s vital to understand buying psychology and how to manage the customer’s decision making process. Debbie adds: “Everything makes a difference during the sales interaction and we’ve devoted ten years to exploring precisely what will lead to winning the sale. There is no doubt that the most successful sales people in 2012 will be those who are skilled at reading and adapting to today’s customer and know how to make every second count towards winning the sale.”

Innovative training for NAG members Virada specialises in the delivery of sales training to the luxury sector and is the leading provider of jewellery sales training in the UK. It also delivers courses for luxury brands in US and European cities. Created specifically for the NAG an ‘Advanced Selling’ course focuses on the jewellery sales interaction and is jam-packed with innovative, yet practical approaches for use immediately on the shop floor. After successful delivery of this course to EDF members, it’s now open to NAG members. Securing the best return on the investment “The main reason for providing sales training is to increase sales. Virada’s sales training has won three national training awards and these can only be won if significant returns on investment can be shown,” adds Barrow. Here are some comments on the courses from NAG members: • “We immediately made the money we’d invested in the course. We’ve made more sales and reduced discount as a direct result of the training. There is no doubt about that.” • “A natural way of selling AND my high value sales have rocketed since the training. The course benefits anyone from new starter to top sales people.” • “The course gave my sales people essential skills to help cope with the tougher consumer environment.” For more about NAG courses provided by Virada, contact Amanda White on: 020 7613 4445 or: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

2012 Council and Forum e are very excited to announce that we will be hosting the first Council and Forum event for 2012 at the extremely impressive, newly-built Goldsmiths’ Centre in Clerkenwell on 14th March. The Goldsmiths’ Centre has been created specifically for the trade to provide a hub for work, learning and relaxation for like-minded industry people. So join us at this innovative new space for what promises to be a valuable day networking with jewellers from across the UK. As with all the NAG events, the invitation is extended to the entire membership. The day will include lunch and refreshments and also a tour throughout the new Goldsmiths’ Centre. The total cost of the day is £40 + VAT per head (£48.00). For further information or to book your place please contact Ritu Verma on 020 7613 4445 or email: ritu@jewellers-online.org

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The NAG at The Jewellery Show 2012 he NAG is delighted to invite you to visit its stand (Hall 17, stand T49) at The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International, NEC, Birmingham, between 5th – 9th February. The exciting five-day event offers buyers the chance to view thousands of new collections and individual pieces and source what they need from among the hundreds of suppliers, trend-driven catwalk shows and key edited areas of the show. The NAG’s stand will re-emphasise its collective strengths that benefit members. These include a free legal helpline, interest free credit schemes, health insurance scheme, significant education course discounts and of course competitive merchant service charges. Added to these are the less tangible things like mystery shopper services, business health checks, and telecoms. The NAG also communicates a wealth of information to help members keep abreast of the market via The Jeweller, the monthly n:gauge newsletter, and the website’s membership area (jewellers-online.org). For more information on these benefits and services and many others, or a chat about any aspect of the NAG, come and meet the team in Hall 17, stand T49. We look forward to seeing you there! Entry into the show is free if you pre-register at: www.thejewelleryshow.com Alternatively for more information call 020 7613 4445 (option 4) or email: stacy@jewellers-online.org

Logistics service for NAG members – Malca-Amit (UK) Ltd he NAG team has managed to secure a new logistics service provided by MalcaAmit (UK) Ltd. NAG members are entitled to a five per cent discount on all standard shipping tariffs. For more details, contact the Membership Department on 020 7613 4445 (option 3) or email: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org To take advantage of this new deal, please go to www.malca-amit.com When applying, please state your membership of the NAG to receive the discount.

BASELWORLD THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW MARCH 8 – 15, 2012

BASELWORLD.COM

| NAG News

New 2012 Benefits and Services The IDEX Online Service for NAG Members – www.idexonline.com he NAG has teamed up with IDEX Online to offer members a unique money-saving deal. Not only will NAG members be given a six-month free trial with the online services of the international diamond exchange but we have also negotiated a huge discount in the subscription fees to the service: • Normal subscriptions: £523.99 (USD $840) for 12 months • NAG subscriptions: £218.33 (USD $350) for 12 months or £404.76 ($650) for 24 months

IDEX Online Special Membership service to NAG members: • Six-Months Free Trial – access to the largest diamond inventory which consists of over 475,000 diamonds valued at over $4.75 billion. • Access to www.idexonline.com where you can bid for, buy and sell diamonds online (no commission involved ) • Receive www.idexonline.com/ DiamondPrices.asp IDEX Diamond Price Report – which is published

weekly. This is an analysis of asking prices for higher-quality diamonds in the international wholesale markets. The report is based on price changes as reflected by the global trade on IDEX's trading platform, providing a reliable, transparent and unbiased pricing tool. • Access to www.idexonline.com/DRB.asp The Diamond Retail Benchmark Price List – a price list for retailers to show consumers the maximum retail price they should pay for a diamond. • Enhanced selling power with IDEX Onsite – an inventory feed on your website. • Join the IDEX Online eBay Direct Sales Channel • Diamond Link updates – real time updates of new buy requests for polished diamonds. • Receive monthly IDEX International Magazine • Receive the IDEX Online newsletter every Thursday. • Additional offerings: industry news, market reports, analyses and more. For more information, please contact the Membership Department on tel: 020 7613 4445 option 3 or email: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org To register with IDEX, please fill in the online application form and state your NAG membership. Go to: www.idexonline.com/register.asp

New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Member Applications Goldmarket (SW) Ltd, Weston-Super-Mare Beaconsfield Fine Jewellery, Beaconsfield, Bucks Simon & Co. Jeweller & Gifts, Gloucester

Affiliate Applications Catherine Budd Jewellery, Poole, Dorset Richard Parsons, Hatton Garden, London

Allied Applications Gemtech, Chester

Alumni Applications Nicola Piper, Fareham, Hampshire

NAG 2012 Events Some key dates for your diary: 1st Feb

Board Meeting

7th Feb

IRV Forum and Valuations Committee Meeting

5th-9th Feb

Spring Fair Attendance

14th March

Council Meeting

14th March

Education Awards Evening

6th March

IRV Forum and Valuations Committee Meeting

18th April

Board Meeting

30th April

NAG ‘International’ Golf Trophy

8th May

IRV Forum and Valuations Committee Meeting

10th May

EDF Congress in Oxford

17th-20th May CIBJO Congress Attendance 11th June

Golf Competition Challenge Trophy

What is JETPro and what can it do for you? n 2011 the NAG launched a new modular course that covers all aspects of running a profitable jewellery business. JETPro is aimed at business owners and senior staff and is assignmentbased. The six modules can be taken as a whole or in areas of the individual’s interest. The formation of this course is based on research and feedback from members but we feel that we have not yet fully promoted the value of JETPro and that the best way to do this would be for NAG members to experience aspects of the course first hand, so, to this end we are offering:

A JETPro taster day presented by Mike McGraw A March 2012 date for this event will be confirmed shortly giving retailers the opportunity to spend a day at the NAG in London during which time they will discover all there is to know about JETPro. We very much hope you will join us. For more information about JETPro contact the NAG’s Education and Training Department on 020 7613 4445 (option 1).

16 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

11th-17th June London Jewellery Week 26th June

AGM

17th July

IRV Forum and Valuations Committee

1st Aug

Board Meeting

2nd-5th Sept

International Jewellery London Attendance

22nd-24th Sept Loughborough Conference (25 year anniversary) 16th Oct

Council Meeting

16th Oct

Centenary Trust and Education Meetings

6th Nov

IRV Forum and Valuations Committee

7th Nov

Board Meeting

Obituary |

Brian Dunn

1948-2011 Past NAG Valuations Committee Chairman Brian Dunn FIRV PJDip PJValDip FNAG FGA, who was also a former NAG board director, who died in December, is remembered here for his passion for valuations, his willingness to share his knowledge and expertise and his trademark colourful shirts.

“Well, that’s how it should be Dunn” by Peter R Buckie ell, just where does one start to sum up a character like Brian Dunn? Like most of us, when his wife Janey called me first thing on the Monday morning following his unexpected and very sad demise, I was dumbfounded – not Brian, the guy who did a gym workout most days, road-ran at the weekends, didn’t have an ounce of fat on his body, didn’t smoke and mostly only partook of a tipple at the weekends! Having been so closely associated with Brian over the years, I immediately wanted to write a tribute to him and I was so pleased, proud and honoured when asked to contribute to his obituary. I first met Brian in 1989 at Earls Court in the embryonic days of the Registered Valuer Scheme when I was on the Valuations Committee and we were holding our first Conference promoting the RV Scheme. There was quite a gathering of interested people forming the audience and we were expounding the virtues of applying to join the Scheme and generally voicing our views on valuations and how valuers should adhere to certain standards, etc. Brian was in that audience and repeatedly asked searching, intelligent questions and made very sensible, sound statements concerning the world of jewellery valuation, which prompted me to ask “Who is this guy ’cos we want him on this Committee?”. I learned that he was an NAG tutor who worked at Garrard as a valuer. The rest of his dedicated involvement with the RV Scheme, and more latterly the Institute, is as they say ‘history’. He was probably the most instantly recognisable person associated with the

NAG’s promotion and regulation of jewellery valuation in the UK, as well as with its various education courses. During the mid/late 90s, Barbara (Peter’s business and personal partner) and I worked together with Brian at Garrard, where he

affectionately known by the anagram of his name – Brain – because when the more junior staff had a question relating to gems and jewellery, Brian usually knew the answer. When Garrard closed, Barbara and I welcomed him aboard our independent consultancy and we were sad (while being pleased for him) when he subsequently rejoined Asprey & Garrard sometime later. Along with Janey, the four of us then embarked upon our ‘Appraisal 2000’ education programme and we toured the nation with guest specialist speakers giving master classes on various subjects. Brian was in his element and an inspiration to work with, as clearly education was in his veins and he possessed the necessary teaching skills to impart his knowledge and expertise to the participants. Since he became an independent, Brian and I again worked together on several noteworthy valuations and I recall especially the time I took him with me to the Middle East to undertake the audit and valuation of a renowned jeweller’s stock that comprised numerous important pieces. It was very

At Garrard he was affectionately known by the anagram of his name – Brain – because when the more junior staff had a question relating to gems and jewellery, Brian usually knew the answer. always referred to himself as a ‘paid slave’ and during this time we were fortunate to handle numerous pieces of ‘grown-up’ jewellery for VIP clients. At Garrard he was

hard, concentrated work and at the end of each long day we would finally get to bed somewhat exhausted around midnight or the early hours. None the less, by the time I, almost reluctantly, joined him for a daily

The Voice of the Industry 17

| Obituary

At the 1994 Loughborough Conference. Back row, left to right: Jonathan P Brown, Michael Norman, Peter Buckie and Philip Stocker. Front row, left to right: Brian, Rosamond Clayton, Sandra Page and Simon Thornton.

early morning swim before breakfast Brian had already had an hour’s work-out in the gym – such was his energy and dynamism. Brian was an immensely talented guy with a brilliant mind and had a gift that he was prepared to generously share with anyone and everyone. While his somewhat Maverick ‘short cut’ approach to some aspects of valuation methodology (based upon his great experience and referred to by him and known by everyone as ‘The Dunn Way’) is perhaps somewhat unorthodox and was readily accepted by him as being so, I occasionally find myself adopting it when I am perhaps not convinced that the value I have determined is accurate. I actually work it out ‘The Dunn Way’ as a cross-reference and note on my Worksheet ‘BRD’. This is a practice I shall, along with many other valuers I suspect, no doubt continue for a very long time! While Brian was undeniably a very knowledgeable and experienced valuer, he had the modesty to freely admit he didn’t ‘know it all’ and was still learning. We used to call on each other’s expertise on a regular basis and I have often said to Barbara that, in the event of me popping my clogs, the first person she should call upon for a second opinion is Brian. Alas, that will not now be possible. Brian’s impact on the world of jewellery, whether it was as an NAG tutor, a Valuations

18 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Committee member, its subsequent chairman, a David Wilkins award winner, a member of the Institute’s Monitoring Panel, or an author of numerous articles/papers on various jewellery subjects, including his contribution to the Institute’s forthcoming CAT education programme, is immeasurable. It was Brian who successfully nominated me for the David Wilkins award in 2008 and I have no doubt whatsoever that it was his influence that finally ended my 13 years in the NAG wilderness and this is something for which I am greatly indebted to him. Since that time we have worked together closely with Jonathan Lambert and the various members of the IRV Forum and Valuations Committee to bring our aspirations and dreams for the future of professional jewellery valuation to reality. Brian’s unexpected passing leaves a HUGE hole, which will be almost impossible for NAG to fill – apart from being a personal friend to many of us, this rather flamboyant, colourful, and somewhat eccentric character will be greatly missed for a variety of reasons. Brian touched countless people’s lives in many different ways and the jewellery industry is a far poorer place without him. Naturally, Janey is devastated at losing Brian and, on the subsequent occasions I have spoken to her either on the telephone or at his funeral, the impact of what has happened to her has clearly not hit home

and she is in a condition of great shock. However, apart from the support she is receiving from family and friends, judging by the number of people from the Institute and the jewellery world who attended Brian’s funeral, she will discover, I am absolutely certain, that she will be anything but alone without him and that surely reflects the measure of the man. While most valuers will associate Brian with the ridiculously colourful Hawaiian shirts he used to wear at Loughborough, I will personally always cherish fond memories of him wearing a cheese cutter hat and carrying a sports bag, which was either full of his sports gear or appraisal aids/gemmological equipment, so one never knew if he was off to the gym for a workout or to a client’s house to do a valuation. His cheeky but affectionate personal greeting to me of either “Wotcha guvnor”, or more latterly “Mr Beeeeeeeee” will stay with me for a

very, very long time! Having survived a heart attack myself last year, I can perhaps identify more than most with the fact that I was lucky and most unfortunately Brian was not! Because of our close relationship over the years, I know that Brian will not be offended and, indeed, will probably give a wry smile if I sum up his relatively short life by using a phrase he himself often used when we completed a job together – “well, that’s now Dunn and dusted” – that’s about right, Brian, but we all owe you an enormous debt of gratitude and I know I speak for many by saying it was a great privilege knowing you and working alongside you.

Obituary |

Skills, seminars and shockingly loud shirts by Sandra Page, NAG IRV co-ordinator knew Brian for over 20 years and he was one of a very special band of people who have an exceptional passion for valuations. His willingness to share that passion with so many people has helped to make the Institute what it is today. Back in 1989 we held our very first RV Conference; it was a half day event which took place during what was then the International Watch, Jewellery & Silver Trades Fair at Earls Court, and Brian attended as a delegate. His contribution to discussions during that Conference did not go unnoticed by the Valuations Committee and by July the following year Brian had accepted the Association’s invitation to join the likes of Simon Thornton, David Wilkins and Michael Norman on the Committee (like Brian, all no longer with us). He served on the Committee until 1996 and rejoined again in 2000. In 2002 he took on the role of Committee Chairman for two years and in 2005, due to being made redundant by Garrards, he had to resign from the Committee. Still, the Association continued to benefit from Brian’s exceptional skills through seminars and workshops at the Loughborough Conference. The Loughborough Conference was particularly special to Brian and his wife Janey as it was at the 1991 Conference that they decided to ‘become an item’. At the 2004 Conference we managed to surprise Brian with an ‘admiration ceremony’ when delegates were asked to honour Brian by wearing the brightest and most colourful shirt/blouse they possessed! Brian said it reminded him of the Alan Whicker sketch from Monty Python’s Flying Circus! We shall certainly miss his colourful contribution to our annual Conference (and our lives in general) but we have plans to remember Brian at this year’s event.

As Committee Chairman he was a delight to work for; he was patient, dedicated and as I’ve said before, passionate about all things related to valuations. I am lucky enough to have a photograph of Brian and me from

the 2003 Conference (complete with bright shirt of course) which I have on display on my bookcase. The silver frame is engraved ‘Sandra – The Boss from the boss’. It was a privilege to work with you Brian.

Delegates at the conference surprise Brian by all wearing loud shirts to equal his!

A firm friend with his feet always on the ground by Anthony Griffin, DJ Griffin Ltd first met Brian some 28 years ago. Shortly after I joined the trade, my father Don Griffin took me to the Garrard trade department where Brian worked for many years (a very daunting thing for me at the time). Brian was immediately friendly and made me feel welcome. Over the

following years we became friends and he would always try to put some work my way and recommend me as someone who would produce quality work at a fair price. Brian was and always will be one of those people that was totally genuine, always had his feet on the ground, saw good in

everyone and liked a joke. The world has lost a decent human being and Janey a loving husband. I am sure that many people like myself will always carry Brian’s memory with a smile and be thankful that we knew him. His memory will live on.

The Voice of the Industry 19

| NAG News

NAG member of the Month In this issue’s Member of the Month, Amy Oliver speaks to Simon and Richard Warrender of Warrenders in Sutton, Surrey. In October the family jewellers underwent a major refurbishment – the first of its kind in over 40 years. So, now that your shop has been completely refurbished, are you happy with the result? Yes, the transformation has created a light and spacious store to focus on and illuminate our jewellery. The design is clean and crisp with bespoke furniture to emphasise the quality of our jewellery and our customer service. The store now includes a traditional concierge style counter, and a more contemporary consultation area where we sit down with customers to offer a more relaxed and accessible buying experience. We have had exceptionally positive feedback from new and old customers, who also noticed how true we remained to Warrenders’ heritage. As a team we have a bright, revitalised and modern space to work in that has set the company up for years to come. Everything about the project has been positive. Why did you decide to revamp the shop at this time, especially considering the economic climate? It is crucial that a business keeps moving forward and even more so in this tough economic climate. We have wanted to refurbish the store for some time and having looked at various options over the years it was clear that this was key in order for our business to grow. It was a massive and very exciting decision for us and has most definitely been worth it. The new layout has maximised our retail space which has also

20 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

increased our sales opportunities. We worked very hard to make sure the new design portrayed the right image to attract new customers without alienating our existing clientele. Having planned for the work it made the financial decision much easier, but crucially the Warrenders team has worked so hard to hit targets over recent years that it allowed such a big project to go ahead. We also decided not to work with a specialist jewellery shop fitter and chose an excellent, local design and shop fitting company who offered better value, a great product and were a pleasure to deal with.

Warrenders is a prime example of a family-run jewellers – what is it about the business that has kept three generations of the family involved? Jewellery is a wonderful thing to work with; we are constantly dealing with good news and celebrations from engagements and weddings to anniversaries, birthdays and, of course, Christmas. It is a privilege to build relationships with customers and to be involved with their special occasions – it really does put a smile on your face. This is also a very exciting time for the jewellery industry with a never-ending stream of innovation and trends. It is a real challenge for a small business to keep learning and adapt to current fashions… but very rewarding. Buying and selling jewellery also offers a significant challenge especially in the current market so it is an even greater achievement when we get it right.

From a family point of view, being able to build on the success of previous generations is a great way to run your own business. We put in a lot of hours but never question why we do it. There are a lot of families and family businesses in the jewellery industry too – most of our team are from jewellery families and there is a real strength in that. Warrenders was established in 1947 and is a thriving business; as experienced jewellers, what advice would you give to an aspiring jeweller? Apply for a job at Warrenders of course…! It is crucial that you commit to a career in the jewellery sector: pick the area of the trade you are most interested in and play to your strengths. A lot of technical knowledge is specific to jewellery. The industry is wide ranging and very competitive so you cannot expect to be an expert in all areas. It is also a small industry so it is important to be friendly and accommodating if you want to be supported in return. You can never have enough knowledge and you need to be able to stand by the quality of what you do or sell. Finally, I always ask our Member of the Month to share an anecdote about a memorable customer – does one spring to mind? We seem to receive regular deliveries of biscuits, cakes and wine from our customers and one lady has promised to deliver an Austrian banquet on Christmas Eve, which is very sweet. But our favourite gentleman is convinced he has discovered a diamond the size of a tennis ball although we are pretty sure it is a cut glass door knob available from all good home stores! It’s a people business… If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, please write in and tell us why! Send an email to: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org

| NAG News: Education & Training

NAG 2012 seminar programme announced Once again, the NAG is continuing its commitment to first rate education and knowledge – aiming to represent the interests of its members in a number of seminars that will not only help boost sales, but also increase staff knowledge and understanding. Continuing from the 2011 programme, the Association is hosting another round of engrossing and informative seminars this year – and the programme promises to be one of the most exciting yet, featuring two new courses, along with a number of classics, and favourite new seminars of 2011. ne of the most popular of these – Selling to Chinese Customers – will be on the list. A sell-out first time round, it once again will be a foray into the cultural unknown for many of our members. With the upcoming Olympics, and the expected influx of Chinese tourists to the UK, this is a great opportunity for delegates to brush up on international selling skills. Alongside this cultural treat we’re hosting Judy Head’s Essential and Dynamic Display workshops: two study groups that will allow fans of Mary Portas (perhaps) to find out the jewellers’ secrets to effective shop display.

The seminar that has been described as ‘fascinating, involving and interesting’ by previous attendants. However, it’s not all about selling – NAG IRV Fellow Eric Emms, the leading authority on diamond grading, is, once again, running his Diamond Grading seminar – a two-day event that assists budding valuers in the identification of diamonds together with treatments, clarity, colour and many other aspects of diamond knowledge. During March we’re looking out for your security, with our one day seminar seeking to combat armed robbery. Facilitated by

Training For Success and accredited by the Institute of Criminal Justice Studies at The University of Portsmouth, the programme carries both an insight into current research within this area of criminal activity and effective solutions for robbery management that can be applied immediately within the working environment. The following is a list of the seminars currently confirmed for 2012:

Advanced Selling Course

N E W!

Two day (Date TBC) This cutting-edge sales course is facilitated by Virada Training, provider of award-winning sales training for the jewellery sector. Aimed at senior sales people, this course focuses on real sales situations dealt with every day and shares the secrets of top sales performers. Discover new sales innovations, explore practical ways of creating a positive buying experience for every customer; unlock potential and enjoy even greater sales success. Feedback from delegates: • “The structure, content and trainer were superb; I have already recommended the training to another jeweller and to my boss so that other members of our team may attend” • “Amazing; really positive. I can’t wait to put new ideas and skills into practice” • “One of my staff says it’s the best thing she has ever done! It has boosted her confidence no end”

Selling to Chinese Customers 8th April 2012 Chinese customers already account for about 30 per cent of the luxury goods market in Britain. Are you making the most of this sales opportunity? This one day course will open eyes to cultural differences and expectations. Your team will learn how to provide the best possible service and maximise sales to Chinese customers by creating the right buying experience. Feedback from delegates: • “Excellent presentation. Explained things clearly and precisely.” • “Great. Very informative” • “Brilliant”

Essential Display 18th March, 4th October 2012 The first steps to an eye catching shop

22 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

NAG News: Education & Training | Portsmouth, the programme carries both an insight into current research within this area of criminal activity and effective solutions for robbery management that can be applied immediately within the working environment.

Diamonds & Diamond Grading

window including instruction on the theory and practise of display. Learn how to achieve a visually exciting display in just one day with this very popular seminar facilitated by Judy Head. Feedback from delegates: • “Brilliant, I have learned so much – would definitely recommend” • “Fascinating, involving and interesting” • “Very complete. It has definitely improved my display skills”

target customers with a particular promotion – seasonal/Easter/Christmas for instance. The one day workshop will focus not only on display but incorporate a strong marketing element that will require the delegates to link their display to a plan of promotional activity to raise the profile of their store, guided by Judy Head.

Dynamic Display Workshop

1st March 2012 This new one-day programme examines the human reaction to the impact of a robbery and provides a number of practical skills that have been shown to work in real life situations. Facilitated by Training For Success and accredited by the Institute of Criminal Justice Studies at The University of

23rd May 2012 Now take your display knowledge to another level. This new course is for management and senior sales staff who have already completed the Essential Display seminar or equivalent. The challenge is to design and build a new window display that will

N E W! Armed Robbery: Reducing the risk and improving profitability – a masterclass

16th/17th October 2012 With Eric Emms, the leading authority on diamond grading, this practical seminar is presented specifically from the retailers’ viewpoint. Included in the two day course is the identification of diamonds together with treatments, clarity, colour and many other aspects of diamond knowledge and a look at corporate social responsibility issues. Feedback from delegates: • “The seminar was highly practical with plenty of diamonds for us to look at. Eric managed to provide sufficient information to keep us interested and able to gain an insight into the technical aspects of diamond grading. • “Really good. I learned a lot and it has given me more confidence” • “A good investment to promote sales. I would highly recommend it These seminars make up just a selection of the exciting events that the NAG will be running this year. For more information on any of these seminars, bookings or the other events running this year, please contact us by telephone on: 020 7613 4445 or alternatively you can contact Amanda White directly by email at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

Centenary trust offers student study grants ith the global recession hitting our shores over three years back, you’d be hard pressed not to know someone struggling to pay the bills. Throughout times of fiscal crisis, it’s a known fact that many people will tighten their belts in the hope of steering their finances through rocky terrain. This is why the NAG Centenary Trust is poised to offer self-funding students a part-funding grant toward our new JETPro course which focusses on the skills required for successful management and business development.

In these challenging times a plan to bring your business forward and further delelop your skills is essential. This is where the NAG’s JETPro course comes into its own. The Centenary Trust, which was formed in 1994 with the principal aim of encouraging individuals to enhance their progress within the jewellery industry, understands how, in these tough economic times, individuals and companies alike may forgo training in an attempt to make economies. And that’s why the Centenary Trust may well

be able to help appropriate self-funding students with part-funding grants towards the cost of enrolling on the rewarding JETPro course this year. If you’re in this position, and interested in finding out more about applying for an award from the Trust, please contact Amanda Reavell at amanda@jewellersonline.org or telephone her on 020 7613 4445 option 2 for an informal chat to see how the Centenary Trust may be able to help you!

The Voice of the Industry 23

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERS’ DIPLOMA

BOOST STAFF CONFIDENCE AND IMPROVE SALES The Professional Jewellers’ Diploma is packed with information on effective selling designed [V IVVZ[ WYVÄ[ HUK IYPUN YLWLH[ I\ZPULZZ Get all the practical skills that a jeweller needs in two bite-sized online assessment chunks (known as JET 1 and JET 2

As well as product knowledge and selling skills, customer service, hallmarking, gemstones, metals (gold, platinum, palladium and silver) the programmes also cover: JET 1 Online: New designers, personal development, rings, silverware and gifts. JET 2 Online: Alternative shopping, JVUZ\TLY JVUÄKLUJL KPZWSH` OPZ[VY` VM QL^LSSLY` [OL QL^LSSLY HUK [OL SH^ ZLJ\YP[` ZLY]PJLZ HUK YLWHPYZ ]HS\H[PVUZ

Invest in staff training and get ahead of the competition by contacting the NAG now on: tel: 020 7613 4445 #1 or email jet@jewellers-online.org or visit www.jewellers-online.org The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG

NAG News: Education & Training |

NAG celebrates the new year with Bransom award winners n this month’s double issue of The Jeweller, we celebrate another two winners of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award. Held in conjunction with our friends at Bransom Retail Systems, each month, the Education Department enters all JET 1 assignments into a competition for ‘best project’. Selected by the external moderators, the award gives students the chance to be rewarded with a trip to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of certificates at our annual student awards ceremony. Those who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory

Sarah with regard to diamond classification and grading is outstanding for someone on JET 1. The coverage of the section dealing with the four major areas of diamond grading clearly demonstrated a complete understanding of the subject.” The moderator was especially impressed by the “thoughts found in the final section of the assignment, relating to the diamond ring brought in by a customer seeking advice. This was because Sarah was able to draw on her background knowledge of the alternative options open to the customer from a manufacturer’s point of view.

“Sarah is a worthy winner of the Branson Award and I hope that she continues her studies through onto the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma Course.” “I am really excited to have won; it was really unexpected,” Sarah told The Jeweller. “I’d read the other articles in the magazine, and thought how well these people must have done. I knew I was getting good grades, but I didn’t ever imagine my project would be good enough to win the Bransom Award.” Sarah went on to say: “I’ve not been working with jewellery for long as I’ve only

It had some really challenging parts and was a good introduction to the trade, including a lot of information that has helped me feel more confident on the shop floor. standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. From the assignments received over the month of November, the award goes to Sarah Holland of Townsend Fine Jewellers in Wetherby. We’d like to congratulate Sarah on her project – she has managed to scoop the prize after finishing the course in a record fast time. Sarah’s tutor, Cathryn Richardson, told us: “Sarah has been a very enthusiastic and committed student while she has been doing her JET 1 course. Her assignments have shown that she has researched subjects well and given good presentation on all the subject matters, making her assignments interesting, informative and enjoyable to read as well as gaining a good pass result.” When we spoke with the project moderator about Sarah’s project, they commented that: “The amount of research carried out by

The Voice of the Industry 25

| NAG News: Education & Training just come to it as a career choice. Before I began working in the industry I researched a number of courses to help me get into the industry, and JET 1 was one of them. When I joined Townsends I found from other members of staff that the JET 1 course would be really good for someone with little experience. After six months of working here I decided to take the course, with the support of my employer – and I was glad that I did. I found the course was well-aimed and I managed to race ahead of schedule with my deadlines. “However, saying that, it had some really challenging parts and was a good introduction to the trade, including a lot of information that has helped me feel more confident on the shop floor. I would definitely recommend the course to anyone who really wants to expand on the basic knowledge they’ve learnt in-store. One of my colleagues is currently in the same position that I was, and I will definitely suggest that she takes the course. Overall, I really enjoyed it and would like to thank my tutor Cathryn and everyone in store for helping me get through Jet 1. I will definitely be looking to enrol in the JET 2 programme shortly and hope to do many courses after that.” Our second winner of the coveted Award, whose project was considered the best submitted in December 2011, was Alexander Martin-Wright of David M Robinson in Liverpool. Alexander’s hard work and commitment paid off, as our external moderator realised the quality of his work, and the extent of the effort shown. Alexander’s tutor Mark Houghton agreed with that view. “From the outset Alexander’s assignments were extensive (12-14 pages

The JET 1 moderator echoed Mark’s comments, adding: “It is very good to see that this JET 1 student has been so committed to achieving top grade results for all the assignments – everyone of them has been classed as outstanding by his personal tutor. This final piece of work is no different which makes receiving and marking it such a pleasure. I sincerely hope Alexander will progress onto the JET 2 Diploma Course.”

As an member of the NAG my company put me through the JET 1 course, and I’m really glad they did. The course allowed me to get to know about client relations in a really in-depth way. being the average), well researched, well presented and always on time. Although not requested as an assignment requirement, Alexander chose to add various images that assisted as an aide-memoire to both the student and the reader. Evidence of work-related examples and teamwork also made this assignment really stand out from the crowd!”

26 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

When we spoke to Alexander, he admitted he’d “put in six months of really hard graft, so it was brilliant to hear that I’d passed, got the grade I wanted, and received the award. I’m really happy. As a member of the NAG my company put me through the JET 1 course, and I’m really glad they did. The course allowed me to get to know about client relations in a really in-depth way.

Writing this down, rather than simply discussing with customers or fellow staff members really enhanced my understanding of how to relate with customers and how to sell. It gives a real and solid background in how to deal with customers and particularly how to display knowledge to them.” Alexander went on to say: “I’m really glad I took the course – Mark Houghton was brilliant, and easy to contact – and the head goldsmith, mark and watchmaker, Rupert, made the course really enjoyable. I’d like to thank them all for their help over the last six months.” The education department would like to congratulate Sarah and Alex on their extremely hard work, and wish them continued success in their work and future studies. For more information on the JET courses, go to: www.jewellers-online.org or tel: 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom please visit: www.bransom.co.uk.

| NAG News: IRV Review

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

Happy 25th Birthday to us! As the NAG celebrates 25 years of professional jewellery valuing, Sandra Page looks back at the early days of the Institute in this first of a two-part feature ’ve been the sole administrator of what was the RV Scheme and is now the NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers, from about 1988 (when I moved from London to Cardiff) so I can recall first hand (with the aid of numerous documents) what is effectively the whole history of valuations within the Association since the 1980s. At the 1985 NAG Conference one person who felt very strongly about the lack of control and guidance offered to NAG members when it came to valuations was David Wilkins. So he put forward a proposal that the Association should do something about it. Within a short space of time a Working Party was created under the chairmanship of Simon Thornton who was supported by Jilly Pollard, David Callaghan, Ron Mumford, Geoff Neary, Michael Norman as well as Wilkins himself. Two years of meetings resulted in the creation of the NAG Registered Valuer Scheme and the Working Party became an official Committee of the Association: the Valuations Committee. The ideals proposed by the Committee and approved by the Association’s Council proved popular with the membership and at the NAG Council meeting held in October 1987 a total of 244 Registered Valuers were elected. In the following year another 235 were elected. The most RVs we had at any one time was 566. Happily, of those 244 Registered Valuers elected back in 1987 33 are still IRVs today as are 44 from 1988! During October 1987 the Association also launched the RV Scheme to the insurance

28 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

world and first indications were that they approved of the ideas behind the Scheme. We’ve continued our link with the insurance world over the years and feel that it is stronger today than it’s ever been. We are particularly encouraged by those companies who will not accept jewellery valuations unless they are from an IRV. In 1988 the Association arranged a national media launch of the RV Scheme to the public, including a presentation on BBC Radio 2’s Derek Jameson’s breakfast show which he recorded with David Callaghan at Goldsmiths’ Hall (1988 also celebrated the millennium of the birth of St Dunstan, the patron saint of goldsmiths and silversmiths.

Press cuttings from the 1988 national launch

Regional launches also took place and generated much interest in the Scheme. It was estimated that radio publicity alone reached an audience of over four million. The Committee also published the valuer’s bible, The Valuer’s Guide, which is now in its fourth edition and lays down the foundations every jewellery valuer should build their skills upon. Special valuation stationery for RVs was introduced including RV logo stickers for valuation schedules, window stickers and publicity leaflets. A few years down the line the Association agreed to withdraw pre-printed valuation stationery for anyone who was not an RV and the Committee redesigned schedules, envelopes, etc to help identify the RV as a professional, ethical and knowledgeable individual. In 1990 the Committee added Notes to the Schedule to assist the public to understand what their valuation schedule included. The original one-page version has expanded over the years to its current two pages. The first two editions of the N.A.G. Registered Valuer List were published in 1988 and circulated to insurance companies, loss adjusters, the police, etc. In later years the list was also circulated to trading standards officers and libraries (at one time over 1,500 copies were circulated) but now, with the aid of today’s digital technology, details of IRVs are available at the click of a button on the IRV website. In 1989 disciplinary procedures and procedures for the resolution of disputes were added to the N.A.G. Advisory Code of

NAG News: IRV Review | Practice for Valuers to which all RVs must abide. The Code was later expanded and updated as the Scheme developed and is now known as the N.A.G. Principles of Good Practice for Valuers and all members of the Association, whether IRVs or not, are required to follow the Code. In those early days RVs were also sent diamond price lists supplied by ‘DiamExpress’. In 1996 this was replaced by the quarterly NAG RV Diamond Price Guide which was compiled for the Association by Backes & Strauss. Today the IRV Diamond Price Guide is circulated via email on a monthly basis with the assistance of James Riley. Krieger Diamonds supplies its diamond stock list which is also emailed to IRVs on a monthly basis. IRVs have always been advised to refer to more than one price guide when calculating diamond prices. The first NAG Registered Valuer Conference, a half day event held during the Earls Court Trade Fair took place back in 1989. The first residential RV Conference at Loughborough

These days it is harder to become an IRV than it was to become an RV 25 years ago and those who want to keep their status have to work at it. took place in 1991 and a very encouraging 80 delegates attended. We’ve stuck to using Loughborough University as our venue as it provides us with everything we need for our jam-packed, two-and-a-half day event; few venues can accommodate our programme which includes numerous workshops for delegates. Over the years we’ve had 106 lecturers take part in our Conferences, some just the once, others on a more regular basis (Brian Dunn, who we sadly lost at the end of 2011 took part in no less than 14 Conferences) and from all over the world. In 2010 we had over 180 people attend and this year, being our Silver Jubilee, we are hoping to top 200 participants. We’ve started planning the programme and have a number of well-known guest speakers already lined up so we’re hoping to welcome back

An early Valuation Review

our regular delegates (of the 150 people who attended the 2011 Conference only 26 were first-timers) and particularly look forward to welcoming delegates who have never been before, especially IRVs who have never attended. In 1990 monitoring (then called ‘policing’) was introduced. To begin with monitoring was a little spasmodic and it wasn’t until 2003 that it became a regular part of the Institute’s annual calendar. The aim is to monitor each IRV once every five years. We now have in place a grading system which clearly identifies an IRV’s weaknesses and strengths, rewarding those who have stayed

abreast of developments as the old RV Scheme became the Institute. Should an IRV fall behind we do all we can to bring them up to speed in order that they can continue their IRV status. In this feature I’ve covered only a few of the important achievements and developments that the Scheme/Institute has accomplished in the last 25 years. In the next issue of The Jeweller the spotlight will fall on the educational developments that have taken place, and in particular on some of the individuals who, over the years, have helped the Association to make the Institute the ‘institution’ it is today. A closing fact: today we have just over 230 IRVs. Some who joined back in the earlier days have found the Institute’s current requirements beyond their abilities, or they don’t have the time that they feel is required to meet current IRV standards, and choose to use the services of IRVs instead of doing their own valuations. These days it is harder to become an IRV than it was to become an RV 25 years ago and those who want to keep their status have to work at it. We may not have the number of valuers we had in the early days, however, the next valuer to be elected an IRV will be our 945th member. And not all the applicants made the grade, the next valuer to apply to become an MIRV will be our 1,059th applicant. We hope that once we have our new qualification CAT (Certificate of Appraisal Theory) up and running that we will soon be welcoming our 1,000th valuer into the fold.

Evolution of the IRV logo The red and orange logo was used from when the NAG introduced the Registered Valuer Scheme in the late 1980s until we changed it to blue. Brian Dunn instigated the change from the red and orange logo to this blue one in 2004. He felt the red and orange one was too garish which, given the type of shirts he wore (see P19), was somewhat ironic! On the right is our current logo, introduced when we launched the Institute in 2008.

The Voice of the Industry 29

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BJA News |

BJA – 125 years young! s another year dawns there are, from the BJA’s perspective at least, plenty of reasons to be cheerful. Not only does 2012 see the Association celebrating its 125th birthday, it also sees membership numbers at an all time high and plenty of exciting new projects in the pipeline. There is, of course, no denying that the economic outlook is still uncertain, but Christmas trading figures from the high street giants were mostly more positive than had been anticipated and initial feedback from members suggests that many enjoyed positive sales in December. There are also the Olympics and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee on the horizon to lighten the national mood and hopefully to get tills ringing again. So how, you may ask, will the Association be celebrating its great age? The answer is with further innovation; for it is the BJA’s ability to adapt to the current climate and to offer its members a service pertinent to the time that is the secret of its longevity. Depressingly, or perhaps reassuringly, those requirements seem to have changed little over the years. In 1887 the preoccupations

of our forefathers – and the reasons why the BJA was formed – make for familiar reading and, as early minutes reveal ‘Crime, insolvencies, the lack of Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA training and the poor state of business’ were much on the agenda. Unfortunately all are still with us, but their nature has changed and how best to address them is very much of now. As the review of our services elsewhere in the magazine makes clear the Association now has in place some truly 21st century solutions to modern jewellers’ problems and, whether you want help with debt collection, with ensuring your premises and your staff are fully protected from crime, or are looking for cost-effective and relevant training for your workforce the BJA can help. The British jewellery industry has much of which to be proud. Many member companies such as Charles Green, Deakin & Francis,

Toye Kenning & Spencer and Alabaster & Wilson – to name but a few – have histories even longer than the BJA’s and are still flying the flag for British manufacturing. To celebrate both our members’ long heritage and our own, we will be staging a small ‘125th Anniversary Exhibition’ to run at The Jewellery Show London where we will be holding our AGM in June. Our aim is to pull together some pieces of jewellery and silverware to represent each of the twelve and a half decades of the Association’s history. We have already had some marvellous pieces pledged, but if you have something in your archive which you feel is part of the great British jewellery heritage and that you would be prepared to lend, do please let us know. All that remains is for me, on behalf of my fellow committee members and the BJA staff, to wish to you all a happy and prosperous 2012 and to say that the team much looks forward to seeing you at The Jewellery Show Birmingham (Hall 18 H35) for what we firmly anticipate will be the beginning of a memorable and celebratory year.

Spotting the unicorn around the UK o celebrate our 125th anniversary the team at the BJA has put together a celebratory programme: • Animated banner on bja.org.uk (above) as well as a 125 years section • Competition to design and manufacture a commemorative silver desk piece. Designs are to be entered by 31st Jan

• •

and the competition judging will be open to all the trade and invited journalists via our website or by viewing the designs on the BJA stand, H35 in Hall 18, during The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International. Visit: www.bja.org.uk for details and sponsors Commemorative 125th BJA member handbook Exhibition of BJA members’ work through the ages at the BJA AGM at The Jewellery Show London 12-13th June, read more about this on p46 Timeline exhibition at IJL 2012 BJA Membership Awards – members will be able to nominate themselves for up to two categories from: Member of the Year, Supplier of the Year, Industry Contributor of the Year, Designer of the Year and Retailer of the Year

Voting will be open to the BJA members, culminating in an awards ceremony at the end of the year. And finally, for a bit of fun you will see from our logo that it incorporates a unicorn so we have decided to hold a ‘ Spot the Unicorn Photo Competition’. Email us your photos whenever you spot a unicorn on your travels to us here at the BJA at info@bja.org.uk. One of our eagle-eyed members noticed the example above recently Can you guess where this one above lives? The answer will be given in the next issue of The Jeweller.

The Voice of the Industry 31

| BJA News

Exhibition to celebrate 125 years of the BJA The jewellery industry has changed dramatically over the twelve and a half decades that the BJA has been in operation. Just how radical these changes have been will be clearly demonstrated in a forthcoming exhibition of jewellery and silverware lent by member firms to be staged to coincide with London Jewellery Week in June 2012. poons for a coronation that never happened, some unusual 100-year old gem-set rings and a bejewelled box for an Arab potentate are just a taste of some of the items that have been pledged by BJA member firms to appear in the Association’s 125th Anniversary exhibition which will take place at The Jewellery Show London at Somerset House later this year (12th and 13th June, 2012). “Our initial enquiries have unearthed some truly fascinating objects and we are optimistic that in the New Year further member firms will come forward with jewellery and silverware produced by their fathers, grandfathers, great grandfathers and themselves which they too are prepared to lend,” says the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton who will co-ordinate the exhibition.

‘Peacock Box’ in 18ct yellow gold with cabochon ruby and enamel by D A Soley

Many of the items already pledged come from companies with histories even longer than the BJA’s own. Tom Green, managing director of Charles Green, whose great grandfather was on the original committee of Birmingham businessmen who in 1887 formed the forerunner of the BJA – The Birmingham Jewellers’ and Silversmiths’

32 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Association – was one of the first to come forward and has promised a fascinating early stock book and some unusual rings from the turn of the 20th century. Other businesses which date back to the Association’s beginnings are Deakin & Francis which is to lend some silverware from the 1880s; Saunders & Shepherd which has pledged some fascinating silver gilt ‘Anointing Spoons’ – still in their original box – which were made in 1937 for Skinner & Co Jewellers to celebrate the Coronation of Edward VIII and, thanks to abdication, became surplus to requirements, and Alabaster & Wilson of Birmingham which is to lend a spectacular gem-set brooch created in the late 1950s. The London producer D A Soley, like so many in the jewellery trade, enjoyed a boom period in the 1980s and early 1990s producing precious trinkets for the Arab market. The bejewelled and enamelled box promised for the exhibition demonstrates the company’s exquisite craftsmanship and is very much of that time. Remember the Silver Jubilee ingots with their feature hallmarks? Carrs of Sheffield has reason to do so with great affection – selling as they did very many thousands of them in the 1970s to celebrate the Queen’s first 25 years on the throne. At that time oversize hallmarks were all the rage and at the luxury end of the market silversmith Martyn Pugh used these to great effect on his deeply textured, silver and lead crystal decanters, which are also to be lent to the BJA by the private collector who now owns them. “We are hoping to find at least a couple of interesting objects from each decade of the

Decanters by Martyn Pugh to celebrate the Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977.

Association’s long history and through them to tell the story of our industry and some of the extremely long-standing companies that operate within it,” explains Straughton. However the exhibition will not concentrate exclusively on the old. It will also include some iconic objects from the past decade and from the present day – including pieces made using new technologies and metals such as palladium and Fairtrade Fairmined Gold. An illustrated booklet on the exhibition with descriptions of the objects and the companies that produced them will be published to mark the event. “We have by no means finished our quest for pieces and would welcome suggestions from member firms, as to any further interesting objects that they would be prepared lend,” says Straughton.

‘Anointing Spoons’ made in 1937 by Saunders & Shepherd to celebrate the Coronation of Edward VIII, which never took place.

If you are a BJA member and have a piece of historically interesting jewellery or silverware you would be prepared to lend, please email info@bja.org.uk with the title ‘BJA Anniversary Exhibition’ or call Lindsey Straughton on 0121 237 1112.

the

Jeweller picks... There’s just about enough time to gather together some last minute gift ideas for Valentine’s Day – and then you may as well consider Mother’s Day…

THEO FENNELL

Theo Fennell has added new intricate designs to his first fine silver collection, Alias. Weft is the daintily feminine new collection taken from the brand’s Weft range that was designed in the 1980s. Sterling silver rings, necklaces and bangles have been entwined with 18ct yellow gold. www.theofennell.com

TATTY DEVINE NOTA BENE

Launched at the tail end of 2011, Nota Bene is a new fine jewellery brand designed by Nikki Blowers. Set with diamonds, cultured pearls and a variety of gemstones, the 18 ct gold pieces have been created to be customisable and interchangeable. Drop charms can be worn on pendants as well as bracelets or earrings. Also in the line are stacking rings, a multi-strand necklace concept and silver jewellery will follow shortly. www.notabenejewellery.com

Cult fashion jewellery brand Tatty Devine has launched its first collection of fine jewellery. Some of the quirky signature pieces, including the chip fork pendant, moustache necklaces and this crown necklace are now available in silver with retail prices ranging from £100 to £300. www.tattydevine.com

ASHIANA

Made in London, Ashiana is a celebration of colour and texture, with inspiration for the designs coming from global cultures and imagery. The jewellery pieces are made from a mix of materials including silver and gold plate, suede and silk, decorated with a variety of gemstones. This cuff is from a collection that comprises lapis lazuli and turquoise set in gold or silver plate. enquiries@ashiana-accessories.com

10 STERLING

LILI DIAMONDS

From one of the new collections of rings by Lili Jewelry is this intricate style in platinum featuring a 4ct D IF Lili Diamonds Meteor Cut® diamond, with white and pink round brilliant pavé diamonds set to sit perfectly around the decagonal shape of the centre diamond. www.lilidiamonds.com

ANA OSTRUM

CARAT

There’s nothing conventional about the jewellery created by Swedish designer Ana Ostrum. Working with sterling silver and unusual materials – this season it’s printed ‘ponyskin’ – her rings, bangles and cuffs (with names like Punk Romance) have an off-beat edginess. www.oritlondon.com

Windsor-based 10Sterling which specialises in hand-made sterling silver GI dog-tags has just launched a range modeled on the tags used by the UK Armed Forces. The hallmarked silver is personalised with embossed lettering – the wearer’s details and a short message. For every dog tag sold a donation will be given to the Help for Heroes charity. 10sterling.com

For the person who needs a little extra help with a romantic gift, Carat has created Valentine Love Cards. Each features a design by French illustrator Emilie Sarnel and contains a choice of three pendant combinations – a microset heart and either a fairy, handcuff or four leaf clover (depending on the message chosen: Love is Magic, Love is Trust, Love is Lucky). Ahhh… www.carat.co

JADA

MEISSEN

Hand-crafted in Istanbul Jada Jewellery features white, yellow or rose gold set with conflictfree gemstones such as blue and green sapphires, pink rubies and, in the case of this open oval ring, white diamonds. The collection comprises stackable rings, delicate pendants, necklaces and earrings. www.byjada.com

The most prolific of symbols for Valentine’s Day is obviously the red heart – and Meissen offer a fine range of rock crystal and red porcelain hearts set in rose gold. However, for someone who prefers something a little more subtle (and expensive) there’s this white gold and diamonds Love Letters ring. www.meissen.com

VANESSA KANDIYOTI

EASTERN MYSTIC FIROUZEH

Created by jewellery designer Touran Reddaway, Firouzeh’s spring/summer 2012 Mediterranean Collection is inspired by the natural beauty of Olympus on the Turkish coast. The 18 ct gold pieces, including pins, earrings, charm bracelets and necklaces are decorated with Middle East-sourced stones such as turquoise, as well as pearls and agate, to reflect the colours of the sea. www.firouzeh.co.uk

Inspiration for Vanessa Kandiyoti’s new ‘Sheva’ collection came while on a dance course in Brazil. She saw people wearing layers of good luck ‘Bahia’ bracelets so decided to base a range around the concept. Each bracelet comes in black or cream macramé cord decorated with a variety of charms (including a chamomile, evil eye, snake and starfish) in white and champagne diamonds and 18ct yellow gold. vanessakandiyoti.com

‘Kimatra’ or ‘The Temptress’ is the name of the new collection by Eastern Mystic, which was inspired by opulent, tribal Indian jewellery in general and hand adornments and ring bracelets in particular. The ideas have been developed to create bold contemporary pieces with a glam punk edginess. www.easternmystic.com

Everyone deserves a piece of Kit Heath

Visit us at the Jewellery Show, Spring Fair 2012

Hall 18, Stand J28, K29 Tel: 01271 329123 Email: sales@kitheath.com

www.kitheath.com

LOUSHELOU

ANDREW GEOGHEGAN

Last Autumn Andrew Geoghegan heard of a collection of exquisite opals, including one variety that had been mined by the Aztecs, since lost, and now found! As this sort of news does not come along every day he rapidly made contact across the Channel and before long the two stones landed on his doorstep… one of them is pictured in the Celestial cocktail ring. It is called Leopard Opal and the mine it came from was lost for hundreds of years. Tel: 0113 30 70 100

The design sensation that was Jianhui’s clever ‘Next Pashmina’ made of tiny lightweight wood beads in a variety of colours, has been joined by two more styles for 2012. The ‘Chain’ shown here is a 10-strand necklace made from fine cord links which have been wrapped with threads of different colours. This will be followed by the end of this year with the ‘Yangmao’ version (the Chinese word for wool). www.jianhui.co.uk

10m2

This jewellery brand is known for its multi-wrap bracelets using a variety of materials. For next spring the emphasis is on pastel colours for the hypoallergenic waxed cotton threads, used in conjunction with silver beads. Other styles feature silver tubes and charms. www.oritlondon.com

TAWNY PHILLIPS

JIANHUI

A new company specialising in fine, contemporary jewellery, Loushelou uses a selection of coloured diamonds and sapphires set into 18ct gold, with an emphasis on design classics with a modern twist. The latest collection includes these cube pendants in black, champagne and white diamonds, which have cube stud earrings to match. www.loushelou.com

London-based bespoke contemporary jeweller Tawny Phillips is re-launching her business after a break of a few years. Having worked closely with Paul Smith in the past and sold her collections through the likes of Donna Karan and Harrods, she has now pulled together a very strong collection of bold and strikingly different pieces – scale and weight being her signature theme. Phillips works using several techniques including hand-carving, forging, stone setting and hand-engraving, with natural materials such as bone beads, rough gemstones and fossilised sharks’ teeth to dictate the designs. www.tawnyphillips.com

| Security

Helping you to help yourself Sign up to SaferGems and pick up the NAG’s new guide to reducing risks – two ways for jewellers to fight crime

Jewellers Personal Safety & Security Guide For Robbery Retailing has always been a risky business and the number of thefts from shops rise year on year with an incident occurring nearly every minute of every day; while violence and abuse against shop staff increases steadily. By its very nature, jewellery retailing carries higher risks than many other sectors. But short of putting a policeman in every shop door way, what can be done to stem the rising tide? The reasons for the upsurge in crime are too complex to analyse here save to say that in the final analysis we face an ever present threat, and current financial constraints do not help! Without a paradigm shift in society, we’re potentially faced with demanding the police do more with less. But can they do it alone? The answer is no, they need help, and particularly from the businesses they seek to protect. The subject of security may seem complex to most jewellers, and perhaps best left to experts. But in reality nobody knows the local circumstances better than jewellers themselves, and with just a little external help they can greatly reduce the risks to their own premises, and use police time more effectively. That is why the NAG has helped produce a straightforward guide that we hope will, in conjunction with your insurers’ advice, answer some of the more basic questions, and act as a template for your own security needs. Naturally crime evolves as criminals adapt to new obstacles and deterrents, in much the same way that business changes its practices to deal with new economic circumstances or consumer trends. Therefore, no guide or template will ever foresee, predict, or describe every eventuality, but by paying attention to the fundamentals of security every business

40 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

will be better able to cope when the unexpected happens. Contact Luke Street for your free copy now.

Singing the Praises of SaferGems There have been some pleasing comments in the trade press about the effectiveness of SaferGems in the run up to the New Year, and our joint initiative with T H March goes from strength to strength, reporting successes almost every week. Frustratingly, we are not always able to share the details of arrests for fear of prejudicing prosecutions, but we can tell you that the data keeps flowing in and the alerts keep ‘pinging’ into the inboxes of registered members of the scheme. Last year alone SaferGems received notice of more than 650 attempted attacks and suspicious incidents; that’s an average of 60 reports a month! Of those, 93 were recorded as robberies, 17 of which were on travelling jewellery representatives, equating to £10 million pounds worth of goods being stolen. Sixty nine aggravated burglaries/smash and grabs accounted for over £1.2 million worth of stock stolen, while 73 commercial burglaries resulted in almost £1 million worth of goods stolen. Lastly, we recorded 344 offences of theft, 172 of which involved distraction or sleight of hand techniques with approximately £280,000 worth of goods stolen. Those members who have registered their details with SaferGems will have seen the latest monthly bulletin, published in January, containing a round-up of requests for info and details of suspects, but here is one minor example of the way SaferGems can help: On Saturday, 3rd December 2011 Kent Police linked two thefts of rings from jewellers in Tunbridge Wells town centre. The offender, while talking to staff about an insurance claim, stated he wanted to use

the money to buy a ring. He asked to see one in a tray of white gold rings and used a sleight of hand technique to secrete one of the rings in the palm of his hand. On Tuesday, 6th December an identical offence occurred at a third jeweller in Tonbridge, Kent, and again the sleight of hand resulted in an expensive ring being stolen. The CCTV from the third offence captured clear images of the offender, which were circulated to SaferGems members as a warning, and to see if anyone could identify him. As a direct result, investigating officers received calls from jewellers in Bluewater, Bromley, and Canterbury, which led to the suspect male being identified and evidence captured. Kent Police also identified further offences in Margate and Ashford before the suspect was arrested on Friday 9th December for attempting to steal a ring from a jeweller in Maidstone. Dave Leadbeater of Kent Police states: “There is no doubt that without the assistance of SaferGems, evidence would have been lost and this individual would not have been brought to justice so quickly. “ If you haven’t already done it, now is the time to sign up to SaferGems to receive monthly e-bulletins and regional emails detailing crime and suspicious activity in your area. To sign up, simply email: membership@jewellers-online.org with your preferred email addresses and we will contact you directly. What are you waiting for – it’s free to members!

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The Voice of the Industry 41

| Brand Profile

the

Jeweller Brand Profile

Clogau Gold Belinda Morris discovers how a regal connection, national heritage, new design directions and travel are proving to be a winning combination for one company. esides the immediate and obvious aspects of last year’s Royal Wedding – namely the romance, the feel-good factor, the boost to tourism and a day off work – there were also one or two positive knockon effects for UK trade in general and the jewellery industry in particular. One business that found itself grabbing a decent share of the regal limelight was Clogau Gold, thanks to its national heritage. The Snowdonia-based company’s jewellery collections are – as everyone must surely know – made, at least partially, with Welsh gold; the very same stuff that has graced the third finger, left hand of royalty for some time now. No sooner had William popped the question to Catherine and almost before the ink had dried on the Clarence House press missives, than Clogau’s own media machine had swung smartly (but discreetly) into action.

The Royal Wedding had a positive impact on Clogau’s sales

42 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

If the general public didn’t know about the significance of gold mined in Wales before April 2011 (or even of its actual existence) then it must certainly be better informed by now. Which is just as it should be – it’s a pretty good story. “The Royal Wedding did have a positive impact on sales; Clogau has enjoyed its most successful year to date,” confirms brand manager Sonia Menezes. “The use of Welsh gold to make the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding ring has raised awareness of the rarity and therefore of the higher value and collectability of jewellery containing this fast-diminishing and most precious resource,” she adds. And there’s the rub of course – there’s not a great deal of Welsh gold left. The mine that William Roberts (father of Clogau’s managing director Ben) bought in 1989, closed a decade later and what remains is a stockpile of gold that is obviously getting

smaller and smaller as the years go by. So, although every piece of Clogau’s jewellery contains an element of this rather beautiful, deep rose-tinted gold… it is just that, an element, which is used in conjunction with yellow, white or rose gold and even silver. The important point is that Clogau’s USP is maintained and so Welsh gold is always a feature. “Where other brands have had to compromise, using vermeil or moving away from gold altogether, Clogau has stayed true to its core values and continued to produce 18 and 9ct gold pieces – never plating but casting in solid gold,” stresses Menezes. When asked about the future of Welsh gold back in April 2009, Roberts conceded that the company had two options: to reopen the mine and begin looking for more gold or have a change of direction as far as Clogau’s Welsh heritage is concerned. The latter has no more appeal now than it did then. “The future of the mine has yet to be confirmed. In the long-term we would very much like to have this formalised,” explains Roberts. “Much of the romance of the brand story is tied to the Clogau St Davids Mine and obviously the gold that the brand is famous for. The ‘Welshness’ of Clogau something we’re keen not to abandon.” “We’re really passionate about the history and heritage of Clogau and Welsh gold,” says Menezes. “And we believe that telling the brand story through the retailer is one

Brand Profile | of the best ways to reach the consumer. We have introduced many new ways to ensure that the retailer has all the information they need to understand the brand and have then supported them with IT, marketing campaigns and retail furniture to maximise the sales opportunity.” It’s interesting that all the iconic Welshness of Clogau – the dragons, the lovespoons, the daffodils and Celtic love knots – rubs alongside the most modern methods of selling jewellery. All the sales reps have access to the brand stories, media and retail ordering system via their iPads. “Each sales call is enhanced with the latest information and training for the retailer, to help them increase their own sales,” explains Roberts. “We have a fabulous new brand story video that can be used on the SIS screens.” Around 18 months ago Clogau launched a retailer web platform – a microsite that is integrated into a participating retailer’s own e-commerce site. This gives their customers

“Much of the romance of the brand story is tied to the Clogau St Davids Mine and obviously the gold that the brand is famous for. The ‘Welshness’ of Clogau is something we’re keen not to abandon.” the entire Clogau range, including any brand promotions. “We have also introduced a retailer website which talks about Clogau Event Days and a brand ambassador scheme,” adds Menezes. In fact the developments at the sharp, business end of the company echo those that have happened on the creative side of things. While staying true to its roots (“we’re a Welsh brand and our Welsh customers are very important,” says Roberts) changes have been made to the collections. “We have a portfolio now that is accessible to a wider demographic,” explains Menezes, who feels that she has brought “a fresh perspective to the brand offering” since joining Clogau (from Hot Diamonds) in 2010. “I have worked with our designer Sam Roberts to broaden the appeal [of the collections] by

A history lesson logau jewellery might so easily not have happened. The mine was originally an abandoned copper mine until, quite by chance, gold was discovered there in 1854. The Clogau St David’s gold mine turned out to be one of the most productive in Wales in the late 19th, early 20th centuries – a key feature of the Welsh Gold Rush. So prolific and renowned was it, that a single nugget of gold extracted from the mine has been used to make royal wedding rings since the 1920s. In more recent time Charles and Diana, Princess Anne and the Queen herself all wore Clogau gold rings, before the Duchess of Cambridge followed suit. In fact the connection between British royalty and Welsh gold goes back to the investiture of Edward, as Prince of Wales in 1911. All of the regalia used – known collectively as The Honours of the Principality of Wales – contained Welsh gold. When Ben’s father bought the mine his plan was to turn it into a tourist attraction, but planners put the kybosh on that idea – and so Clogau Gold was established and the company started to make jewellery to sell to local craft shops. It proved to be a very smart move (as well as a way of making good use of a hole in the ground) and since then things have come a very long way indeed.

playing to our very obvious strengths – even a small amount of very precious Welsh gold makes a piece of jewellery that bit more special. They’re future heirlooms.” Today, beyond the more obvious symbols associated with Wales, Clogau jewellery gathers inspiration from many aspects of its homeland. Welsh folklore, the natural beauty of Snowdonia and sentiments that are particular to the Welsh are expressed through lines such as the Fairy Locket, Awelon (‘light summer breeze’) and Am Byth (Welsh for ‘forever’). And the word Am Byth ring

‘cariad’ meaning ‘beloved’, inscribed inside a wedding ring line is as beautiful a touch as any bride or groom could wish for. This spring Clogau is launching Heart of Wales – a catalogue that offers a collection of some of its best-loved Welsh themed jewellery… as well as a few new designs to tempt devoted fans. Added to all this, the royal connection, unsurprisingly, has not been allowed to fade to a distant memory. Clogau is coming up to its second year of working in collaboration with Historic Royal Palaces Enterprises and there are plans to launch a luxury Royal Clogau collection inspired by the Crown Jewels for this auspicious Summer of 2012. The regal sparkle will certainly be evident at The Jewellery Show next month, when Claire Jones, official harpist to the Prince of Wales (she played at The wedding last April and wore Clogau jewellery) performs at the launch of Clogau’s new Heartstrings collection. She will then go on to be a brand ambassador featuring in the stand alone campaign and video for the new diamond set line, inspired by the national instrument of Wales. Needless to say such royal alliances not only create an impression on consumers in Wales and the rest of the UK (both areas having grown in the last year for Clogau), but other markets around the world clearly

The Voice of the Industry 43

| Brand Profile

The regal sparkle will certainly be evident at The Jewellery Show next month, when Claire Jones, official harpist to the Prince of Wales (she played at The wedding last April and wore Clogau jewellery) performs at the launch of Clogau's new Heartstrings collection. appreciate the links too. And this has been given extra impetus by travel retail. In November last year the company announced its business partnership with the Tallink Group of cruise ferries, operating in the Baltic Sea. Initial sales proved to be so positive that several ships re-ordered within a few weeks of the introduction of the jewellery. Other recent travel retail ventures for Clogau include Mandarin Airlines and Air Macau and in order to further extend its reach overseas it took on a new business design manager – Artemis Couroupaki, previously of Links of London and Folli Follie. That Clogau is definitely on the map was demonstrated when its Royal Wedding marketing campaign culminated in a month of very high profile branding and consumer activity at Heathrow's Terminal 5.

44 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

“Duty free has exploded for us this year – it’s been a real eye opener to the potential of overseas trade,” says Roberts. “There was a time where we struggled to explain to English and Scottish stockists that the brand could work outside Wales. With travel retail we can demonstrate that the product works in the US, it works in the Far East, it works in the Middle-East, there’s no reason why it won’t work in towns around England. However, eventually I think we’ll have to take our destiny into our own hands in London.” “One of our strongest ambitions is to grow Clogau all over the world,” agrees Menezes. “Despite the general financial decline, several economies are booming where the consumers have a

propensity towards buying luxury goods with a strong brand story. Travel retail is our fastest growing sector and we anticipate further expansion here.” In making subtle changes to the collection and in continuing to express – with passion – a consistent brand message, the team at Clogau is not only attracting a new customer and new retailers, but, in Menezes’ words, “laying foundations for solid growth”.

Ar Dan rings

Swarovski

SPRING LOADED New exhibitors, new sectors, new launches and a new layout to boot – The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair promises to get 2012 off to a flying start as our preview demonstrates. ith just weeks to go until the NEC at Birmingham plays host once again to The Jewellery Show, the organisers were able to announce – with understandable enthusiasm – that among the number of companies who have chosen to exhibit at the 2012 show for the first time, is Swarovski. In fact it’s the crystal jewellery brand’s first UK exhibition launch platform for several years… so cue three cheers all round!

46 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

“Swarovski is delighted to be exhibiting at The Jewellery Show,” says UK & Ireland director Hayley Quinn. “As the world leader in precision-cut crystal jewellery, the business has an impressive growth plan in place to expand its portfolio of prestigious partners and stores, and [the fair] provides an excellent platform to invite visitors to explore the sparkling world of Swarovski and its infinite possibilities.”

Other new faces among the 400 or so designers, suppliers, manufacturers and service providers who will be exhibiting at the show are: Tresor Paris, London Pearl Company, Dan Jewellers, Charles Green, Saint Maurice and Phantasya. The event also welcomes back Spinning Jewelry, Ken Carr London and Breuning – all returning to the exhibition after a few years’ absence. Another significant new development for the event as it continues to grow is the launch of Time – a dedicated watch area within The Jewellery Show. Watch makers who have signed up to join Time include long-standing exhibitor at the show, the Condor Group – owner of the Royal London, Cannibal Watches and Time Co brands – along with a number of other suppliers

BQ Watches

that have never been seen before at the exhibition. Bering Time (the Danish brand is one of those newcomers) Revue Thommen, Alessandro Baldieri, Torgoen Swiss, Eton Watches, Kennett, Storm Watches, Issey Miyake, Festina, Chic, George, Identify London, Oasis, Playboy, Puma Freefall, Henley, Wingmaster, Ravel, Tom Dexter, OoZoo, Louis Frey, Switch, Danish Designs, Time IT and Icon Watches are included in the horological line-up. Elsewhere at the event, the Design Quarter in Hall 18 (including the Houlden Group’s specially selected Gems area) will house 30 British and international designer makers, including the likes of Alice Menter, Chavin, Alexis Dove, Cindy Dennis Mangan, Zelda Wong, Jeremy Hoye, Kimberley Selwood, Rachel Galley, William Cheshire and Sheila Fleet. At 4pm on Monday the Houlden Group Designer of Excellence

The Jewellery Show Preview | sponsored Catwalk Cafe a central feature as ever. In between shows, the space will be used for seminars given by industry experts who will provide invaluable insights into the multi-faceted world of jewellery retail, and you can also look out for a series of exciting panel debates and ‘An Audience with’ interviews. Presentation topics include: creating Christmas all year round, celebrity style, making the transition from independent to brand, the rising price of metals and how to innovate in times of change, the future of retail and win-win on the web.

Spinning Jewelry

Award will be presented at the Catwalk Cafe. The same venue will also see the awarding of the CMJ award for Best Jewellery Collection at the show – last year won by IBB’s Tirisi brand.

Showcasing the latest jewellery trends (supplied by WGSN), daily catwalk shows at 12.00, 15.00 and 17.00 (16.45 on the Sunday) will aim to inspire buyers as far as directions are concerned, with the Pandora-

For full details of catwalk show times, the seminar schedule, travel details and opening times for The Jewellery Show visit www.thejewelleryshow.com

THE JEWELLERY SHOW HIGHLIGHTS The Jeweller editor Belinda Morris picks out some of the special events as well as new launches revealed that will be taking place during this year’s show.

Fancy a Golden Ticket?

Plenty of 2012 cheer from the Birmingham Assay Office

ritish jewellery manufacturer Hockley Mint, specialists in precision engineered wedding rings, earrings and pendants is returning to the show for the 16th year and will be sponsoring the entire VIP experience. The first 50 retailers who visit the Hockley Mint stand (Hall 17 Q30/R31) on the first four days of the show will each be given one of 200 Golden Tickets. This will allow them access to the show’s VIP lounge, where they can claim a glass of champagne (or another beverage) and use the area to hold meetings or recharge their batteries during a busy day at the show. The drinks vouchers may also be redeemed at the Pandora Catwalk Café during Hockley Mint’s dedicated catwalk scene. Ensuring the VIP treatment continues even after the show is over, all Golden Ticket holders will be entered into a post-show prize draw to win a luxury weekend spa break for two at a fabulous UK location.

This year’s Jewellery Show will see a number of exciting unveilings from the Birmingham Assay Office – all aimed to help the retailers and manufacturers increase sales in 2012. Key among these is the new Diamond Jubilee Mark, an additional Commemorative Hallmark which can be applied from now until the end of 1st October, 2012. Point of sale retail packs to highlight and promote Diamond Jubilee hallmarked articles are available from The Birmingham Assay Office (Hall 18 K58) for £10. The Office will also be showing its growing Training, Education, Research and Consultancy service which provides courses and learning for those in the fine and fashion jewellery industry. New courses for 2012 include ‘Buying Scrap Gold & Silver’, ‘Understanding Coloured Gemstones’ and ‘Identifying Hallmarks & Important Gemstones’. The team will also be demonstrating the new and innovative AnchorCert Gemstone Weight Estimator App, which, in a couple of clicks will calculate the estimated carat weight of diamonds and gemstones from their measurements. There will also be the SafeGuard Interactive Retail Training Programme which is designed to provide an informative and comprehensive training session for use in-store at the convenience of the retail store staff.

Domino increases on-line offer On the Domino stand visitors will be able to see the launch of the company’s on-line version of its renowned ‘Handbook’. This will mean that a collection of over 5,500 different jewellery components

spanning everything from ring shanks to earring findings will now available to customers 24/7 on the Domino website: www.dominojewellery.com “Each item in The Handbook is available across a range of different alloys and in a variety of sizes and displaying the huge choice

of items available on-line, in a clear, userfriendly format, will provide an invaluable resource for our customers, especially at weekends and in the evening when our telephone sales teams and sales representatives are unavailable,” says sales and marketing director, Andrew Sollitt.

The Voice of the Industry 47

| The Jewellery Show Preview Reaching tech-savvy customers with Gemvision… Demonstrating that the future lies in technology-based jewellery retailing, the team at Gemvision Europe (Hall 18 Stand N59) will be giving live presentations of the company’s newest version of CounterSketch Studio 2.6. This offers retailers an easy-touse bespoke design service in-store – over 2,500 base models to modify – while significantly expanding their product range without the overheads of holding stock. In addition, visitors will be able to see demonstrations of the latest version of Gemvision’s Matrix 7 design software. This improves on traditional CAD functionality, giving designers more freedom to create the type of complex organic design shapes which are generally created only by hand. “The profile of customers looking to buy engagement rings for example is very different today. They are increasingly technology savvy with online purchasing being second nature. They expect to browse cutting-edge websites for buying ideas and look for computer screens they can interact with instore,” says managing director Gary Baines. “Successful retailers will be the ones who adapt to this new generation of potential customers and embrace new technology.”

… and with GIA While on the subject of technology, the GIA (Hall 17 R15) will be giving the lowdown on its new 4cs App which has been designed to engage and educate consumers on colour, clarity, cut and carat of diamond quality. There is also a retail version of this iPad application, created for use at point of sale and a Simplified Chinese version is also available on iTunes.

Mastercut’s Diamond Jubilee Competition To celebrate the Royal Diamond Jubilee this year, Mastercut Diamonds in launching a design competition at the show. Its aim will be to ‘foster creative talent, with entrants (professionals and non-professionals) encouraged to let their imaginations soar’, and then translate this into an innovative piece of diamond jewellery, which will contain 20 Mastercut diamonds, valued at over £20,000. The competition will be judged by Mastercut’s Jean-Paul Tolkowsky and the

48 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Cornerstone gets official launch We’ve previewed this exciting new project in an earlier issue of The Jeweller and those at the NAG’s AGM on HMS Belfast last year will have heard about it, but now the industry at large will be able to see Cornerstone in the flesh. Thanks to the huge amount of support from Weston Beamor/Domino, the jewellery collection launched by UK jeweller Paul Spurgeon in collaboration with Soweto-born jeweller Nqobile Nkosi will get its first airing at The Jewellery Show. The aims of this social enterprise project, based in South Africa and the UK, is the empowerment of the people of Soweto and Makapanstad through gainful employment. “One exciting feature of the event will be a ‘catwalk of distinction’, with music reflecting the origins of inspiration and models creating a visual and thought-provoking insight to this partnership,” explains Spurgeon. This special showing of haute couture Cornerstone jewellery will take place during the main show catwalk. Also, Nqobile himself will be on the stand during the event and during his stay in the UK will be doing an internship at Weston Beamor in order to learn a little more about commercial jewellery production. See for yourself firsthand on the Weston Beamor/Domino stand: Hall 17 P44/Q45. winning piece will be manufactured by the company and exhibited during London Jewellery Week. Visit the stand (Hall 17 S59) for more information.

Bransom launches new POS finance solution Bransom Retail Systems, the largest supplier of computer systems to the jewellery trade, has partnered with Pay4Later, the UK’s fastest growing consumer finance provider to offer an integrated point of sale finance solution. By integrating a financing option within their EPoS system, jewellers can increase sales and improve the customer experience by pre-populating credit application forms

and streamlining the service. The official launch of the new system will be at The Jewellery Show, with installation at set-up offered free to those who sign-up at the launch (Hall 17 R58). “Credit applications can now be submitted directly from our touch screen tills. The customer details, purchase price and description of goods are automatically entered to speed up the process and ensure accuracy. The exclusive deal with Pay4Later is an excellent opportunity for Bransom clients to offer interest free or credit terms in one simple process and stay ahead of the competition,” explains Chris Garland, MD of Bransom.

The Voice of the Industry 49

| The Jewellery Show Preview

Spring Loaded – the 2012 Look Book

Babette Wasserman

These bright and bold ‘Electra Boule’ rings will be among the classic Babette collections being shown at the fair – including the more recent Oval Link and Tab Link necklaces. Other highlights will be the organic wooden ‘Ebony’ pieces combined with smooth stones and return-to-the-’80s ID rings, bracelets and necklaces. Hall 18 DQ 41-49

Ti Sento

Tresor Paris

Animal-meets-mineral-meets-Mother Earth is how Ti Sento describes its new Terra Collection, which has been inspired by the landscape, colours and textures of Africa. Shown here are stacked bracelets comprising delicate rope-twisted silver set with oval moonstones, as well as pavé edged satin enamel and zirconia-encrusted bracelets. Hall 17 V40

Andromeda and the men’s Triton are among the new styles of crystal sphere bracelets being introduced into the Neptune collection by Tresor Paris. Both incorporate natural gemstones agate and magnetite. A special edition pavé set white diamond bracelet was recently created with the X Factor logo incorporated, as the bracelets are already favourites of judges Tulisa and Kelly Rowland. Hall 17 U04/V05

Brave Designs Unique Jewellery

Stainless steel combined with leather creates a young urban look for Unique’s women’s collection, with some pieces embellished by fresh water pearl for a more elegant feel. The sterling silver collection uses simple geometric and natural forms – like circles, flowers and leaves – for particularly contemporary pieces. Hall 17 N14/P15

50 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Native American importer Brave Designs continues to feature silver feathers strongly in its collection for 2012. Symbolising the chief and eternal happiness the feather features in a number of new designs for pendants and earrings. Hall 18 E02

| The Jewellery Show Preview

Kit Heath

From delicate blooms of an English rose, including rosary pieces in blue chalcedony and lapis lazuli, to lattice effects highlighted by blue topaz and designs that twist, turn and wrap with the Cocoon line – the Kit Heath range in gold plate as well as sterling silver, encompasses the key jewellery trends of the season. Hall 18 J28/K29

Goldmajor

Zelda Wong

This striking necklace from Goldmajor’s new Amber range features four cognac balls suspended on stainless steel wire. Another dramatic piece in the collection features an amber arrow in the centre of a silver stranded collar, while in other pieces amber has been crafted into hearts, square blocks like little sugar cubes and icicle-type structures. Hall 18 M14/N15

The new collection – ‘Cellular’ – being launched at the show is inspired by the complex surface of the honeycomb shaped tissue paper ball used for party decorations and has been created using CAD-CAM technology. The raised section of the sterling silver flat design gives a threedimensional effect, as in this ‘Orchid’ ring. Hall 18 DQ36

Following on last year’s trend for ‘Shamballa’ bracelets and Eton’s incorporation of the style into watches, the company is launching more colours for 2012. The watches – fashion accessories with a function – have Japanese movements and feature IPS nickel-free plating. Hall 18 K15

Deakin & Francis

Founded in 1786, first time exhibitor at the show Deakin & Francis will be revealing its new collection of cufflinks (with brands that include The Businessman, The Sportsman and The Eccentric). Designs range from the spooky (silver and cold enamel skulls) to the dashing (Spitfires and speedboats) and cute – these colourful cupcakes. Hall 18 H59

So Jewellery

Following feedback from retail customers, three new designs of silver set with freshwater pearls have been added to So’s pearl jewellery collection. The sterling silver pieces are rhodium plated for a high shine and to prevent tarnishing and are packaged in So’s trademark white box with magnetic clasp. New silver cufflinks, diamond designs and CZ pieces will also be shown. Hall 18 H31

52 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Eton Watches

The Jewellery Show Preview |

Mounir

Taking its signature colour-inspired look forward for the new season, Mounir is experimenting with different colours and shapes of stones for the gold and silver pieces – all handcrafted in the London studio. Hall 17/18 DQ13

Imagine if... Rachel Galley

Pandora

Well now you can.

Rachel Galley’s new Mystic range of open-ended bangles is available in gold plate or silver and features a variety of different stones such as moonstone, coral and turquoise as well as the smoky quartz and aventurine shown here. Hall 18 DQ51

...you had the ability to expand your product catalogue and create uniquely bespoke jewellery for customers? All this without the overheads of carrying high value stock.

Inspired by the natural world and taking references from the Art Nouveau movement, Pandora’s new collection, ‘Floral Nostalgia’ incorporates precious metals, gemstones and pearls for very feminine pieces. Here the intricate openwork form of a delicate dragonfly is fashioned into a sterling silver pendant. Hall 17 P14/Q15

The global leader in design technology, reinventing the way you do business. See us at The Jewellery Show 2012 5-9 February NEC Birmingham Hall 18, Stand N59

T: 0113 3899710 E: gveurope@gemvision.com www.gemvision.com The Voice of the Industry 53

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The Jewellery Show Preview | This new owl pendant in gold vermeil, as well as plump bunnies and wrens in silver or gold vermeil, will be making an appearance in the new collection – for necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Also on show are pieces inspired by vintage cabinets of curiosities (keys, buttons, hearts, skulls and shells) as well as Alexis’ precious collections including wedding and engagement rings. Hall 18 DQ33

Simple organic shapes, off-set by handworked unusual finishes in silver and gold vermeil and set with coloured gemstones is Pomegranate’s signature look. Apple-green peridots in textured silver and rich rubies in satin-finished vermeil are among the highlights being shown for statement pieces as well as more delicate and every-day studs and necklaces. Hall 18 E13

Missoma

Pomegranate

Alexis Dove

Simple, stylish and contemporary is how designer Marisa Hordern describes Missoma’s new Astra collection, with heptagonal and geometric pieces created to highlight the irregular cut of the gemstone – a modern take on the ‘star’ design. It’s available in amethyst, chalcedony, rose quartz and smoky quartz. Also new is Ark, a fun collection of animal forms that mixes different metals for maximum effect. Hall 17 S33

Making its UK debut at the show is Buddha to Buddha, a jewellery collection for men, women and children, created by Dutch entrepreneur Batul Loomans. Inspired by a meditation holiday in India, the collection has grown since its launch in 1997 to include a hundred different types of bracelets, rings, earrings and necklaces (some featuring gemstones or leather), crafted by hand in hallmarked sterling silver in Bali. Distributed by Fable Trading. Hall 18 J74/K75

Troll Beads

OoZoo

Buddha to Buddha

With around 500 styles to choose from, there must be a watch to suit most tastes from this very affordable Dutch brand. From classic to contemporary, with small faces or ultra large ones, materials range from steel and silicon to leather and suede. For sporty types there are models featuring the crown on the left-hand side. Hall 18 J59

Original charm bead jewellery brand Trollbeads will be unveiling new techniques in glass bead making at the show this year. Fresh, bright greens and blues will be a key colour theme for spring, which will also see new glass kits and a number of new gold and silver bead designs. Hall 18 J74/K75

The Voice of the Industry 55

| The Jewellery Show Preview

Contrasting colours and textures and geometric lines will be central to Gecko’s Fiorelli collection, which has been inspired by catwalk looks recreating the glamour of 1920s Hollywood screen goddesses as well as tribal trends. Hall 18 K30/L31

Gemex

As well as the new From Russia With Love line of diamond set Russian wedding bands in the Raphael Collection, Gemex will be launching an extensive range of engagement rings to complement its platinum bridal collection – all rings sit flush with Gemex wedding bands eliminating the need for retailers to make shape-to-fit rings. Hall 17 S04/05

Kleshna

Fashion trends and the architecture and lifestyle of Italy provide the inspiration for this collection of bold, glamorous jewellery. The Argento collection comprises sterling silver pieces set with zirconia stones of different colours, some used in combination with pearls. Also in the line is a clip-on charm range with over 1,000 different styles as well as a more masculine, unisex collection with an urban feel. Hall 17 N14/P15

Vendorafa

This beaten 18ct gold ring from the Dune line is one of the pieces from the new Vendorafa collection by Advalorem (part of the Weston Beamor Group). All the jewellery in the line is rich, heavily textured and many of the pieces, from rings and earrings to neckwear and bangles, feature diamond accents. Hall 17 P44/Q45

Among the many new lines being unveiled will be a micro range called Little Moments – cute animals and iconic symbols with five pendant styles to choose from, each set off with a Swarovski crystal drop. Another range is Candy Hearts, with crystals flanked by silver beads for bracelets, necklaces and stretchy stack rings. Hall 18 E35

56 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Giorgio Martello

Fiorelli

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| The Jewellery Show Preview Cindy Dennis Mangan A first-time exhibitor at The Jewellery Show, Cindy Dennis Mangan will be showing her expanded ‘Princess & The Python’ collection in sterling silver and gold vermeil, which will include this statement Python bangle. Visitors will also be able to view her awardwinning ‘Elemental’ platinum and diamond bridal collection and the ‘Luminous’ diffusion range in platinum, 18ct white gold and diamonds, inspired by her necklace created for PureJewels Platinum Heritage Collection. Hall 18 DQ48

D for Diamond Sheila Fleet

Gecko’s children’s jewellery brand is celebrating its 10th birthday by unveiling a makeover for its packaging, point of sale and branding imagery at the show. While remaining true to the ‘child-like’ charm of the original, the new look for D for Diamond is a little more sophisticated as well as fun. Hall 18 K30/L31

Continuing her inspiration from the sea, Sheila Fleet is launching ‘Tidal Island’, a collection that echoes the ebb and flow of tidal currents in the Orkney archipelago group, in silver set with pearl, moonstone and CZ. Also new this season is ‘Kiss’ which follows the layered theme using silver and gold strands set with diamonds and other stones. Hall 18 DQ34

Chavin

This design-led, socially responsible jewellery brand (created by fine jeweller Ana De Costa) will be launching more than 80 new pieces on its stand in the Designer Quarter. Key products in the collection will include 18 styles of coloured friendship bracelets, each set named after one of the mothers that Chavin is helping in Peru via its longterm partnership with the charity SOS Children. Stacking rings, bold cocktail rings and leather bracelets will make up the rest of the line. Hall 18 DQ10

Swarovski

The ‘Swing, Sing and Shine’ collection is Swarovski’s tribute to vintage styling and in particular the lights, glamour and vibrancy associated with the world of entertainment. The two key themes – combining modernity with the retro story – take the colourfilled crystal pieces from ’50s sweet and feminine to ’60s avante-garde. Hall 18 L44/M45

58 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Sho Fine Jewellery

Sho’s 18ct ‘Coin Collection’ will be one of the key lines shown at the fair and will include new diamond pieces and comes in three colourways: white gold with white and cognac diamonds and pink sapphires, yellow gold with yellow and blue sapphires and tsavorites and all diamond. Also look for the new animal friendship bracelets. Hall 18 DQ 52-59

Tel: 01299 832813 | cherry@coronajewellery.com www.coronajewellery.com

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The Voice of the Industry 59

| The Jewellery Show Preview

Wrap and Stack bracelets are the way to go for Balagan this year. Available in single, triple or five-wrap lengths (which can double as a necklace) the options include summer pastel pearls, gemstones in bold tones and sparkling crystal. All come with their own packaging and point of sale material. Hall 18 K28/L29

Curteis

Shropshire-based Curteis will be showcasing new additions to its Silver Echo range of jewellery which places emphasis on combinations of textures and shapes for its hand-crafted pieces. Hall 17 P59

Kennett (Since 1853)

Watch distributor Since 1853 will be introducing a new range called Illumin8 in the Kennett collection. The line comprises eight bright coloured dial variations which – as the name suggests – glow in the dark. This particular feature is applied in Switzerland, while the rest of the watch, which has a Miyota quartz movement and IP black finish, is made in the Far East. Also under the Since 1853 umbrella will be Torgoen Swiss watches. Hall 18 K33

Nomination

Balagan

Italian composable jewellery brand Nomination celebrates its 25th birthday this year with a new sterling silver collection comprising around 100 new links which include letters and symbols. Also being launched are new additions to the Lotus collection which is inspired by the clean and simple lines of the flower. These include necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings in stainless steel, as seen here. Hall 18 K14

Alice Menter

Inspired by time spent with a hill tribe in Northern Thailand, Alice Menter designs jewellery that explores the boundaries between jewellery, clothing and body adornment. Her technique includes taking everyday objects – such as nuts, washers, zips and bolts – plating them in gold or silver then combining them with suede, lycra and chain for a fluid, contemporary and highly individual look. Hall 18 DQ35

60 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

BJA Feature |

Celebrating 125 years n 1887 a group of jewellery and silverware producers from Birmingham got together and wrote to fellow members of their industry. Their aim was to call a meeting of the trade to address the various problems of the time – problems which still sound remarkably pertinent today: the prevalence of crime and insolvencies, the lack of training and the poor state of business. The group’s manifesto, (which eventually led to the foundation of the Birmingham Jewellers’ and Silversmiths’ Association, later to become The British Jewellers’ Association) also addresses the ever-thorny topics of education, legislation, the development of trade and lobbying parliament. These topics are as relevant now as they were then – a fact which may well explain the longevity of the BJA and be one of the reasons why, at the great old age of 125, it now has well over 1,000 members, an all time high in its history. “In some respects the industry has changed beyond recognition. Indeed the past ten years alone have seen new technologies which have transformed not only production Mike Hughes processes but also business practices and retailing. We have also experienced competition from countries that we would never previously have seen as competitors. While some concerns have remained constant, there is no doubt that our members’ needs are continually evolving and changing so that what they require from their trade association in 2012 is more complex than ever before, and requires us

to constantly look to the future – rather than the past – to ensure we can meet their needs,” says the BJA’s current chairman, Michael Hughes. This in part is reflected by the BJA’s commitment to regularly research the needs of its membership to understand and act on their needs. This has resulted in new initiatives on safety, ethical trading, greater provision of discounted services, membership forums, training and business support. More information on these can be found on the BJA web site: www.bja.org.uk Hughes, together with his vice chairman Gary Williams, his deputy chairman Barrie Dobson and members of their 15 strong National Committee have been working with the BJA’s staff to put in place an ongoing development plan for the Association and have been instrumental in introducing a range of pertinent new services and alliances. “We have worked extremely hard over recent years to build bridges with other national and international jewellery and silverware organisations and introduced measures to ensure that we can assist our members to stay one step ahead in a fast changing marketplace. Together with our partner organisations we have also created a strong and united voice for the British industry,” says Hughes. Barrie Dobson agrees. “From the word go, 125 years ago, the BJA has existed to help its members through difficult times and there is no getting away from the fact that Barrie Dobson this is a tough climate

for the luxury goods market. Perhaps that is why membership is now at an all time high as more and more people come to realise the advantages to be gained from pulling together and supporting and helping each other.” Dobson uses an analogy to explain his vision for the Association. “Personally I see the BJA as being at the centre of a big wheel with spokes reaching out to all the different sections of the trade. For the wheel to turn effectively and have strength, all parts must be interconnected. It should not just be about information flowing out from the BJA at the centre, to benefit firms at the periphery. You get back what you give – and the more members who belong and the more they feed back into the Association the stronger and better the wheels of our industry will turn to the benefit of us all,” he says. This is a view further endorsed by Gary Williams, who takes over the chairmanship of the Association from Mike Hughes in June. “The BJA today is an incredibly vibrant Gary Williams and relevant trade association. It does a brilliant job helping to steer its diverse membership through the daily hazards affecting their businesses. I am really proud to be taking over the reins from Mike in this very special 125th year and look forward to putting in place a strategy to steer it towards another 125 years supporting the trade,” he commented.

The Voice of the Industry 61

The Jewellery Show

BJA member trade show benefits ne of the most frequently cited reasons for belonging to the BJA is the discount on stand space which membership provides at some of the UK’s leading jewellery exhibitions. For larger businesses, like the Derbyshire manufacturer and retailer, CW Sellors, the discount it receives on its sizable stands at The Jewellery Show and International Jewellery London (IJL) means it effectively receives the other benefits of membership free. “Trade shows are a key aspect of our business development and growth and our BJA discounts on stand space are hugely beneficial in allowing us to purchase larger stands at the major shows and thus to exhibit a wider product range to customers and potential customers. Using the BJA logo, which is instantly recognisable to other industry players and our clients, adds credibility and inspires confidence,” explains Chris Sellors. The discounts are also important for the designer maker community which exhibits regularly at specialist shows the British Craft Trade Fair in Harrogate and the consumerfacing ‘Treasure’ in London. “Shows are a crucial part of my calendar and it’s nice to have a saving. It’s also good to get regular

62 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

news about issues and developments in the trade and to know what’s happening in other parts of the sector. We also used the BJA legal service recently for a bit of advice about our tenancy and it’s great to have that kind of support in place for when you need it,” says designer maker, Becky Crow. For those just starting out on the exhibition path the BJA can also make life easier. Its curated ‘Kickstart’ group stand at IJL provides an extremely cost-effective way for young businesses to gain access to an international jewellery audience while, as past exhibitor Emma Turpin explains, also providing them with invaluable advice and support. “I was delighted to be selected for the BJA’s Kickstart group stand for designers at IJL in 2011. This is such a big and important show that without the BJA’s support it would have taken me much longer to be able to be involved. It was fantastic to have their help, reassurance and endorsement. Thanks to them I have made a lot of contacts in the jewellery industry. It has also been great to become part of a community and to know that I can always ask them for advice so that I no longer feel isolated. I also find their information bulletins very useful,” says Emma Turpin.

Overseas events The BJA is extremely pro-active in keeping its members informed about overseas shows and in encouraging their export activities. When funding is available the Association will organise group stands at suitable overseas exhibitions and has been instrumental in assisting a number of designer makers to grow an export business. A new BJA initiative for 2012 is a group stand for British designers at the JCK Las Vegas show in June. The Facts BJA members receive discounts ranging from 2.5 per cent to 15 per cent on stand space at: The Jewellery Show Birmingham and London, Spring and Autumn Fairs International, Giving & Living in Exeter, Scotland’s Spring Trade Fair, The British Craft Trade Fair, International Jewellery London and the Dublin Gift & Homestyle show. They also receive favourable rates on deliveries to trade exhibitions from Malca Amit and Loomis and are kept fully informed of any overseas trade exhibitions where government grants may be available subject to status.

BJA Feature |

Ensuring a safer industry ifficult times economically tend to bring increased concerns about levels of crime and this is particularly true in the jewellery industry. The BJA strives hard to support its membership in this respect with the introduction of a range of useful security-related services covering everything from discounts on CCTV camera systems, emergency lighting and door entry systems through to the supply of armed guards and secure courier services. The latter is particularly important to Levy Gems, the Hatton Garden gemstone dealer which has over the years enjoyed close association with the BJA. Harry Levy was the first gemstone dealer to be its chairman and still represents the Association on the Gemstone Commission of CIBJO.

Levy’s son Dan explains: “As gemstone dealers we have very specific needs and while we find many BJA services of use to us, far and away the most important is the discount we receive as a member of M A Express, a special secure and insured FedEx delivery service provided through Malca Amit. This is something which not only saves us money but which, we believe,

The Facts The BJA provides discounts on the following security services: CCTV hi-definition and access control from MRSF Group and BRS Fire and Security • Courier services and airport collection from Malca Amit and Loomis • Property protection by Primassure • Security alarms and lighting by MRFS, AVA and BRS • Premises guarding by Malca Amit • Air lock doors by Sure Lock Doors • Armed hold-up safety training by Spa Consulting • Safes by SMP Security and MRFS Group • Bonded warehousing by Loomis • Smokecloak

Taking an ethical stance thical issues are at the heart of the BJA’s modus operandi. In order to belong to the BJA member companies must agree to abide by its ‘Code of Ethics’ – a nine point plan which covers all aspects of their business and is their customers’ guarantee of ethical business practices. The BJA also works closely with global bodies such as CIBJO to disseminate information relating to the nomenclature of gemstones, the composition of precious metals and the disclosure of treatments. With the advent of ‘Blood Diamonds’ and

Man washing diamonds in Kono, Sierra Leone

gives us security while also providing a real competitive edge to our business.” Members also receive free access to SaferGems, a service whereby participants are emailed regular reports of any jewelleryrelated crimes. This sharing of privileged information, among members of the BJA and NAG (co-founder of SaferGems), as well as customers of insurers T H March and the police in the major jewellery centres, has already been proven to assist in detecting perpetrators and in protecting participants from potential criminality.

‘Dirty Gold’, the BJA followed the NAG’s lead with pan-industry initiatives to create a more ethical supply chain and worked closely with the British government in establishing the Kimberley Process. It was also a founder member of the Responsible Jewellery Council and continues to work closely with this body. Indeed it was a BJA member, Harriet Kelsall, who became the first UK jewellery manufacturer to gain full RJC accreditation and Harriet is now working closely with the BJA team to assist other members tread this path.

One retailer for whom the BJA’s ethical work is of prime importance is National Committee member, Vanessa Burkitt. “As an advocate for human rights and ethical production in the jewellery trade, I strongly support the BJA’s stance on the issue of clean diamonds. I now serve on its ethics’ committee where my role is to research the complexities of the diamond supply chain so that the Association is in the The Facts Usage of BJA logo • Up-to-date information on global ethical issues • Representation on UK and international bodies • Access to lobbying best position to advise members on topics such as the Kimberley Process and the potential for a Kimberley Two to address human rights after the horrors perpetrated in some of Manage mines in Zimbabwe. “The BJA has spoken out on ethical topics in the media and I and our chief executive are currently working with human rights NGOs, HMG, the US State Department and representative Diamond Bourses to ascertain how best all elements of the diamond network can work together to restrict and reduce abuses against diamond workers. I see this as an absolutely key role for the Association in pressing for clarity, supply chain transparency, ethics and change,” she says.

The Voice of the Industry 63

| BJA Feature

What does the BJA mean to you?

Sales Support

We are asked some very different members to tell us what they value most about their BJA membership and its work supporting the industry.

“To sell successfully you must understand the business you are in, so having free access to the latest industry information such as the Mintel Report courtesy of our BJA membership is a real plus. As more people turn to the internet to source jewellery, we also appreciate the leads we receive from the BJA website from the B-2-B sourcing service.” Barry Bennett, Gecko

A Strong Voice

Business Services

“Lobbying has always been a key role for the BJA and its ability to speak out on behalf of its members on matters which affect the industry is for me one of its greatest strengths. It has been doing this throughout its history and over the years has won a number of notable battles. Most recently, together with other trade bodies, it campaigned successfully to keep the UK hallmarking system when it was threatened as part of the Government’s ‘Red Tape Challenge’. This ability to provide a strong voice for us all is for me reason enough in itself to belong.” Martyn Pugh, Silversmith

Great Publicity “When launching a new business you need all the help you can get, so we were delighted to receive some free PR for our products in the show roundup in The Jeweller magazine following IJL 2011. It’s difficult to know exactly how people get to hear about you but we’ve had great response to our ‘It’ collection which was featured and feel sure the article helped to get it us into the buyers’ subconscious. The BJA was also really helpful in the early stages of setting up the company giving us access to a wide range of services and information.” Carole Stock, Nathan and Stock

Training and Mentoring “When my business was still in the early stages, I was chosen to exhibit with the BJA at Inhorgenta, something that without their support I would not even have been able to consider. It was wonderful to have their advice and Lindsey is fabulous at introducing me to galleries and collectors. In fact their support network and mentoring is for me almost the most important thing. When you start off you don’t know how things work and I always feel I can email or call to ask for their help. Their design contracts and the design deposit scheme are excellent too and provide something that would otherwise be extremely expensive.” Ute Decker, Designer Jeweller

Effective Legal Advice “When one of my early designs was copied and the offending pieces spotted on another stand at a major UK trade show, lawyers from Royds who provide the BJA’s Copywatch Intellectual Property Service gave me instant, on-thespot advice and secured the immediate removal of the offending item from the show. Protecting my designs is very important to me and I particularly value the BJA’s work in this area.” Shaun Leane, Shaun Leane Jewellery Design

For further information about these and other benefits and services available to members of The British Jewellers’ Association please contact Diane Thomas. Telephone 0121 237 1110, email: info@bja.org.uk or visit our website at: bja.org.uk

64 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

“I’ve belonged to the BJA for many years but for me the most useful service currently is the discount members receive on card payments through Streamline. It is a very favourable rate, and better than I could achieve alone, which is all-important at the moment.” Kim Wood, Kim Wood Jewellers

Financial Information “We are great supporters of the BJA’s Confidential Credit Letter, which is of great service to the industry. We regularly send in information about our own poor payers and find the monthly report compiled by the BJA, using feedback from others, invaluable. We are particularly wary of dealing with new customers who appear on the CCL list and know that it helps us to avoid bad debts.” Joseph Smith, AGI Gems

Security As a company that buys in around £5 million worth of precious metals a week, we naturally work very closely with the Birmingham police. In late 2011 we discovered that the BJA had signed up to the NAG’s SaferGems to get email alerts. No sooner had we done this than the first alert we looked at showed seven suspects wanted for a number of robberies and distractions-type crimes, covering an area from Harrogate to Devon. I recognised all of them and contacted the police. The upshot is that most of the seven have been arrested, which is excellent news! Nigel Blackburn, Lois Jewellery

The Voice of the Industry 65

| Insurance Matters

Gambling with your peace of mind Business Interruption Cover (also known as Consequential Loss of Profits cover) is one of the least understood types of insurance by jewellers. While the topic lacks the dramatic impact of armed robberies, Business Interruption Insurance is an essential protection for jewellers, says Michael Ferraro of TH March. business which insures only its material property (stock, fixtures and fittings, buildings etc) and its legal liabilities, depends on that property being replaced very quickly after loss or damage so there is minimal interruption to trading. Yet all too often that does not happen: a major robbery in December can find suppliers out of stock, so pre-Christmas turnover is lacking; five inches of floodwater, which the owners expect to be sorted quickly with minor redecoration and new carpets, takes nine months because builders are in short supply, plaster has to be hacked off walls, brickwork allowed to dry, new floors relaid and the shop re-fitted; rebuilding after a major fire, which is expected to take nine months, takes over two years due to the need for slow hand demolition in a busy high street with restricted access, planning delays, and lack of availability of builders who are working overtime because of floods elsewhere in the country. How does the business pay the staff, rent, rates, last year’s tax bill and the many other unavoidable overheads when faced with such disruption? Consider a typical, though much simplified, Profit and Loss statement on a set of business accounts (right): Clearly, insuring the net pre-tax profit does not touch the real problem. Yet, that is the figure first offered as a sum insured by some jewellers when asked about Business Interruption Insurance. All policies, and most proposal forms, contain a definition of insured profit for the purpose of insurance. This is basically turnover less purchases, with adjustments for the difference between stock levels at the start and end of the financial year. This

66 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

‘gross profit’ is the pool from which both the expenses of the business and the net pre-tax profits are drawn. The complexity of Business Interruption Insurance offers various pitfalls. This is where the experience and pedigree of the broker is vital. In addition to excluding purchases from the calculation, it is sometimes possible to exclude other specified working expenses. Care needs to be taken to ensure anything excluded really will reduce in proportion to the reduction in turnover. Postage is sometimes offered as a suitable example, because reduced turnover after a fire means fewer sendings to and from suppliers and repairers. That may be true in some circumstances, but postage can also rise following damage, for example where smaller stocks

Profit and Loss statement Sales Actual Sales Closing Stock Cost of Sales Opening Stock Purchases

£296,789 £123,456 £420,245 (£120,000) (£165,300) (£285,300)

Gross Profit £134,945 Expenses Wages & Salaries (£59,230) Rent and Rates (£34,777) Postage (£2,020) Advertising (£5,600) Other (£23,280) (£124,997) Net Profit £ 9,948

are held so there is more movement to and from wholesalers and manufacturers. Another often underestimated key factor in Business Interruption Cover is the Indemnity Period – the maximum period of reduction in turnover as a result of the insured damage which will be covered by the policy. As the above examples show, reinstatement of damaged property often takes longer than expected. But the policy also covers the period until the expected turnover is recovered, not just the period for the repairs, provided the delay in recovery of turnover is due to the damage. In one extreme case, a shop which suffered only a few dislodged ceiling tiles in a terrorist bombing remained closed for

three years because of extensive damage to other parts of the shopping centre in which it was situated. One cost-cutting approach which is normally extremely dangerous is to select a first loss sum insured. The argument is that since the majority of losses are well below the total anticipated gross profit for the period; one can reduce premiums by seeking to insure a reduced figure, declared to insurers as part of a larger total gross profit. Very few insurers will accept this. Those that do will only accept it for very large sums insured. The risk to the jeweller is implicit in the premium saving: insurers will only reduce the premium if they believe it reduces the risk to them. The jeweller takes the risk that the loss exceeds the selected sum insured. Given the uncertainties of recovering from a major disaster, as illustrated by the above examples, and the large values concerned, the jeweller is gambling the rarity of such a major event against the very existence of his business. Gambling with indemnity periods, first loss sums insured or other catastrophe risks will not provide the peace of mind which is the hallmark of good insurance.

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Image: BaselWorld

BaselWorld – open for business The finer details of new collections are, for the most part, firmly under wraps right now, but ahead of the Big One, Belinda Morris previews a few of the new lines to be revealed and gauges confidence levels. ith just weeks to go until the world’s largest and arguably most important watch and jewellery show opens its doors, excitement and trepidation is building – probably in equal measure. How BaselWorld 2012 pans out for the 1,800 exhibitors will surely be an indicator of the industry’s immediate future. No-one is predicting an easy ride for the next year or so, but on the other hand there’s cautious optimism that this sector of the luxury market is as well equipped as any to weather the storm. “The watch industry is very resilient and its tradition is a powerful and positive influence on its stability, even at times of economic difficulty,” says Kirtsen Crisford, marketing manager of Seiko. “We feel that

68 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

watch lovers will remain watch lovers, even in tough times, and that demand will grow again very soon, especially in Europe, which is still the heart of the global watch business. Therefore we are as excited as ever about Basel and expect it to be the success it usually is.” Breil Jewellery

While steering clear of being openly bullish about things (pride, fall and all that) other exhibitors are also fairly sanguine about the state of the market, for both watches and jewellery. “Although the economy is tough, the watch market seems to have fared much better than many others and so we continue to have very high expectations of the fair,” agrees Sarah Salter, timepiece product manager at Casio. “The emerging markets in Asia are continuing to grow at a very rapid rate and the US also is still one of our strongest markets. But the UK is still a key focus for Casio.” This world view is one that is echoed by almost all the `suppliers I spoke to. In tough times it clearly makes sense to play to your strengths and do your share of trumpet-blowing. A key aid to confidence (whether supplier or retailer) is the belief in your product and its invaluable – even unique – place in the market. First time exhibitor for its jewellery at Basel, Lalique can surely expect a huge amount of interest from buyers. “Our expectations are very positive as Lalique is a kind of new player in the small nebula of jewellery brands,” says spokesperson Anne Kazura. “People are

Baselworld Preview | UK consumer spending on watches and jewellery – taken from the September 2011 report from Mintel

Sales of watches and jewellery (not including costume jewellery) are valued at £4.2bn in 2011 This represents a growth of 3% since 2007, according to Mintel estimates The value of the market shrank by 1% between 2007-2009 Precious metal accounts for three-quarters of the market value Mintel forecasts that sales of watches and jewellery will increase by 8% between 2011 and 2016 to achieve a value of £4.6bn Sales of watches and fine jewellery are under threat by: mobile phones and other electronic devices; fewer marriages, gold prices and an ageing population However, the population of ABs is forecast to hit 14.8m by 2016 – a solid growth of 6% on 2011 levels. These affluent consumers have the highest spending power on watches and jewellery Despite challenges, Mintel research shows that giving and receiving gifts of this nature have dampened the impact of the recession to a degree Demand for watches costing over £250 is highest among men and peaks among 35-44s and ABs. One in 20 men (1.3m in the UK) would spend over £1,000 16% of Britons have a collection of several watches, peaking among 45-54s

very excited to see how we can go back to our first love in the same daring way that René Lalique was known for, but making it up to date and relevant.” Similarly, Bremont finds that its point of difference puts it in a strong position. “We Ingersoll

are one of the only British watch companies among over 400 Swiss ones,” says cofounder Giles English. “We feel that we offer a different and unique product, so have very high hopes of the fair – even in a poor market. We don’t need a growing market to grow our business,” he adds. “The outlook for the start of 2012 doesn’t appear to be looking much better than 2011 has been, however, with some of the bigger brands moving their price point and rationalising their distribution, we feel there

is a gap in the mid market sector for a high quality Swiss brand such as ourselves,” says Matthew LeFevre of Maurice Lacroix, who also cites the London Olympics as a reason to be cheerful business-wise. Another Swiss brand, Mondaine, also regards itself as being pretty well-equipped to face the future with confidence, thanks to its own particular differences. “Mondaine has a clear and unmistakable look that is a perfect [addition] to a selection of watch brands in a store,” explains Brigit Bircher, brand manager for the company which has enjoyed “a king-sized growth” within the last two years in the UK. “Also, Mondaine is for many jewellers their entry price Swiss watch brand – a perfect argument.” For any retailer who buys watches in depth, Basel clearly can’t be missed. “It’s the biggest and most important fair in the world and as well as buyers our key sales staff attend because they can directly contact their customers to gauge interest in the new lines,” says Adrian Marroneau, head buyer of Time2 at the Wonder Room, Selfridges and Rolex One, Hyde Park. “It’s important for us to be the first in the know, to report back and to buy the right products; we see what the big trends are for that year. At Basel we buy with authority to secure the rarest watches for our customers and ensure we get the most interesting selection in our market. We also gather information about new brands in order to develop our existing portfolio,” he adds.

While not necessarily always placing orders, Shaun Bell, managing director of Joshua James Jewellery and Watch Depot in Hessle, finds that attending Basel is vital for staying ahead of the game. “It helps me keep on top of the latest European watch and jewellery trends and ensure that we have the right brands and models for the new season,” he explains. Economic uncertainties or not, Bell remains optimistic about the future. “The outlook for Watch Depot is extremely positive so we’ll be looking to increase our portfolio and push brand awareness. We certainly don’t want to modify our buying in a way that would restrict our growth or development,” he adds. Buyers can expect distinctive products, new technologies, a polarising of price points and the stupendous spend on stand design for maximum brand exposure that has always been the hallmark of the show.

2012 Trends If you care about catwalk and market diktats, here a a few watch and jewellery trends to be mindful of as you scour the best new looks for the year ahead Retro styling (including 1980s) Ceramic continues for watches Colour and texture for watch straps Watches for ‘professionals’ (military, divers, drivers, astronauts…) being bought by ‘civilians’ Vintage look jewels Pretty pale pastel gemstones Black and white Tribal/ethnic inspired jewellery (African in particular) Classic, masculine watches for women – sporty of city smart Chunky bangles – bold and single or a stack of styles BIG statement earrings Increased use of pearls and coloured stones to off-set precious metal costs

BaselWorld Open for business

Dates: Thursday 8th-Thursday 15th March, 2012 Venue: Messe, Basel, Switzerland Information: www.baselworld.com

The Voice of the Industry 69

| Baselworld Preview

BaselWorld

– Editor’s Selection

Michel Herbelin Exploiting the trend for vintage styling are these bangle watches from Michel Herbelin’s Salambo series. In stainless steel, two-tone and all 18ct gold plated versions, they have ovalshaped cases and a variety of dial options including crystal set with white mother of pearl and a stylised twist on traditional roman numerals. www.michelherbelin.co.uk

Meistersinger Among the several new models being shown at Basel will be a new chronograph, a limited edition of its 24-hour watch, new additions to the No2 and No3 collections and the new NEOf – a ladies version of the NEO launch last year, but in delicate pastel shades. www.meistersinger.net

Euro Pearls Expect a number of new developments from Euro Pearls this year (still under wraps as we go to press) but in particular colour will be a strong element of the new collections. This means a number of unusual shades will be introduced into the jewellery as well as a mix of colours and types of pearls used together to create bold and interesting pieces. www.euro-pearls.com

The Court Goldsmith A collaboration of eight of Europe’s top craftsmen come together under the Court Goldsmith umbrella to show objets d’art as well as jewellery. Guilloche on titanium watch dials and hand-painting on enamel jewellery are both specialities of the bespoke pieces produced. 0044 1 425279312

70 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Diesel Vintage military hardwear meets contemporary colour combinations in the new Master Brigade collection by Diesel, which includes this ‘shabby’ brown model with its tank-like shape, over-sized crown, highlighted dial and LED light feature. www.fossil.com

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| Baselworld Preview

Hip Hop A whole host of colours in plush velvet is expected to be the star attraction of the new collection by Hip Hop, an Italian brand that was launched in 1985. Iconic styles from the eighties will be included in the line, tapping into the current mood for vintage styling. Binda Group: 01628 770988

Christina Design From the Sport Chic range this gold-plated watch, which is also available in a white strap/stainless steel version, features a full sapphire and diamond set dial with adjustable bezel. Despite the sparkle the durable model has a super-strong casing, is water resistant to 100m and so can withstand the rigours of most sports. www.christinadesignlondon.co.uk

Furrer-Jacot New for this year is Furrer-Jacot’s Precious Metal-Carbon Collection (created in partnership with the Swiss Olympic bobsleigh manufacturer). The rings will be available in 950 palladium with carbon, 950 platinum with carbon and 750 yellow, white and red gold with carbon. www.furrer-jacot.com

Luminox Returning to its roots, Swiss-made Luminox is introducing a Blackout version of its original Navy SEAL watch with the same ‘always visible’ technology that the brand is famous for. As well as available at this entry level, the Blackout look will also be shown at the top end with the Field Valjoux Automatic Chronograph series. www.luminox.com

Zeon Ltd Among the brands that Zeon will be showcasing is the new and stylised collection of timepieces – including a range of ceramics – by fashion designer Vivienne Westwood; the fun, bright Paul’s Boutique watch range, new styles of Braun clocks and watches and just-launched automatic models from Ingersoll. www.zeonltd.co.uk

72 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Bremont In 2010 Bremont was commissioned to produce a unique global timer chronometer for the military C-17 Globemaster crew around the world – arguably the most intricate and complicated military watches ever produced. The British company has now developed this ‘Globemaster’ watch as the Bremont World Timer (ALT1-WT) for the civilian market. Launched in a new Trip-Tick case with Rotoclick bezel and a very complex, highly finished dial the watch’s case construction has been hardened through a series of processes at high temperatures to give it a hardness and scratch resistance of 2000 Vickers. The World Timer will be available in three dial variations – blue, black and white. www.bremont.com

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PLATFORM

Ask not what we can do for you but what together we can do for the benefit of all. . .

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS is the largest and most active trade association in the Jewellery industry. Representing retailers within this sector for well over 100 years, we work together with our members to promote the highest level of ethical, professional practice in the UK Jewellery sector through ‘Education’, ‘Representation’ and ‘Communication’. Today the potential and pitfalls of the jewellery industry are as complex as they are challenging and as the industry’s major trade association, the NAG is committed to providing our members with the necessary tools and information to ensure their businesses are best equipped to take advantage of the challenges ahead. Indeed we are, and have been, at the forefront of many industry matters – either contesting, debating or discussing the key issues that effect our members and the industry as a whole; whether it’s ‘The Kimberley Process’, ‘FairTrade Gold’, ‘CIBJO’, ‘Ethical Jewellery’ or ‘Action for Market Towns’ to name a few, the views of our membership are always well represented at the ‘top table’. Plus, more recently, the NAG has developed member initatives such as ‘Safergems’ (in conjunction with TH March to improve the fight against crime), the ‘Executive Development Forum’ (a member forum committed to sharing ideas and improving sales) and the ‘Institute of Registered Valuers’ (setting standards for professional valuers). Add the NAG’s industry renowned JET I & 2 Education and Training online courses to the list, as well as publishing its very own magazine The Jeweller, and it is clear to see the NAG is proactively involved in all aspects of the trade. The NAG is your voice and your trade association for the UK Jewellery industry – collectively and together we can work to achieve a better industry for everyone. If you would like to find out what working together can achieve for the benefit of all, please call Amy Oliver on 020 7613 4445 and find out about the different membership schemes available to retailers, manufacturers and designers.

Education • Representation • Communication www.jewellers-online.org

Baselworld Preview | Maurice Lacroix Two models join the Pontos line this year including this Pontos S Chronograph with its distinctive sporty styling which is available either with a steel strap or this bold and strong nylon webbing version (available in a range of colours). The stainless steel case is water resistant to 200 meters and in an unusual twist the bezel ring is inside. www.mauricelacroix

Gemex ‘From Russia with Love’ describes a new collection of precision diamond set Russian wedding bands in the Raphael Collection by Gemex, which is exhibiting at Basel for the first time. Given that their popularity looks certain to continue for 2012, rose and yellow gold play an important role in this new line. Also being shown will be the new line of engagement rings to complement the diamond set platinum wedding bands. www.theraphaelcollection.com

Festina Official timekeeper of the Tour de France, Festina obviously has a strong association with sports and cycling in particular. However, also being launched at the show alongside the Chrono Bike line will be models with a more fashion-led quality, such as the colourful, zirconia set, colourful ladies’ watches and this new chronograph in the ceramic collection, which is available in black or white. www.festina.com

Rotary As well as the new Ultra Slim timepieces – rose gold plate, or yellow gold with a leather strap – Rotary will also be launching its new ladies ceramic Aquaspeed sports watches, including a chronograph model, as shown here. www.rotarywatches.com

Gc Watches Celebrating its 15th anniversary this year Swiss-made Gc watches will be launching a special mechanical anniversary watch, as well as the brand’s first mechanical ladies’ timepiece. An extension to the watch collection launched this spring, will be the brand’s first leather goods line. www.Gcwatches.com

The Voice of the Industry 75

| Baselworld Preview

DKNY Jewellery New York sophistication meets free-spirited West Coast in the new women’s jewellery collection. Oversize styles are young and bold with onyx stones on stainless steel cuffs, rings, necklaces or earrings, while other styles in silver, gold or rose gold shimmer with pavé trim. Fluid movement is created by cultured pearls on stainless steel. www.fossil.co.uk

Lalique A bold fusion of precious stones and metals – including gold, diamonds and sapphires – will form the central element of the new ‘reborn’ collection of jewellery by Lalique, as well as the company’s signature fine crystal. The Petillante collection comprises gold and silver rings with crystal and diamond embellishment. www.lalique.com Breil Watches Italian watch (and jewellery) brand Breil is renowned for its fashion-forward, unisex styling, although this model, from the Mantalite collection has a somewhat more feminine feel with its lilac aluminium insert on the bezel – other, more masculine, shades are available. Binda Group: 01628 770988

Domino The Diamond Ring Mounts collection will offer 80 different designs in platinum and a range of 18ct alloys including white, yellow or rose gold. To help romance the product at point of sale, each design will have its own ‘story’ to tell. This ‘Maroc’ dress ring features ornate patterns and flowing forms. www.dominojewellery.com

Victor Mayer Pforzheim-based jewellery manufacturer Victor Mayer (founded in 1890) is renowned for the most detailed aspects of the goldsmith’s art such as guilloche, chasing, engraving and stone-setting – as seen in this diamond and guilloche pendant, with rose cut diamonds set into the long, sautoir-style fine chain. victor-mayer.com

Nomos More sporty and distinctive and youngerlooking than its other models, Nomos’ Club line keeps things simple with an automatic caliber and patented Nomos date display and is available with either a dark or light face and stainless steel case. www.glasheutte.com

76 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

| Opinion: John Henn

It’s life, but not as it should be... here are moments in your life when you learn something that has a profound effect on you, and so it was on an October afternoon when I was informed by a short grapevine that a good friend of mine had become a confirmed sufferer of Motor Neuron Disease (MND). It could just as easily have been me. We are both retail jewellers, with the same history working with our fathers before taking over ourselves. We both climb, ski, cycle and both have foreign wives who we love and who both berate us about the lousy fitting windows and doors we live with, but he is the one out of 500,000 people the sporadic strain of this disease had chosen to settle in. Many of you will know Simon Cupitt (42) – he is one of the nicest guys you could ever hope to meet. With his wife Åsa he runs the family business in Bromsgrove. They have two lovely children. Simon is one of the few people who actually makes jewellery as well as sells it. He has created beautiful things since he started learning the skills at the age of 25. The future is uncertain. This chap rode a civilian section of the Tour de France in August – 3,000 vertical meters over eight hours in the sun of the Alps. After returning home the usual stiff legs didn’t restore at the same speed he might have expected and after a few weeks he went looking for answers. Referrals led to further appointments and eventually to the diagnosis. One of Simon’s lifetime intentions was to ride his bike from John O’Groats to Lands End for charity. Little did we know he may be the cause which will set us off next March on the 1,900 mile round trip. Except, happily for me personally, we will be on motor rather than push bikes. Research into MND is ongoing – isn’t it always? Sixty of the world’s leading stem cell experts from 14 countries were brought together for the first time early last year in

78 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

New York to shape the development of future co-operation in MND stem cell research. In Canada there have been successful tests on mice where they have identified the specific gene that attacks the neurons. The discovery of this rogue gene has the potential to significantly advance our understanding of MND but this development is still five years away from human trials. None of us knows what the future holds for us but at least not knowing allows us to continue with a normal life. There are difficult times on the horizon for Simon and his family, and for all of us to see such a tremendous contributor to our lives dealt such a card is spine-chilling. I’m sure Simon wants to work for as long as he feels up to it in the business, but exhausting himself or having conversations on the phone are to be avoided. Sleep is difficult and he wakes with a finite amount of energy that is all he has for the day. There are some marvellous software products on the market that turn text into voice, and vice versa. Please don’t be apprehensive about emailing him – simon@cupittjewellers.com

Simon Cupitt with his wife Åsa

back together again after a close shave in Afghanistan and all the other dangerous places in the world they find themselves. They are involved with everything neurological and command a great deal of respect within their arena. BMW motorbikes is to sponsor us with one of its brand new touring scooters, the C 650 GT (www.bmw-motorrad.co.uk). It is a whole new world of hand operated touring scooters that is arriving into the UK market next March. We will have one delivered early for Simon so he has some time to get used to it before the trip. He will be accompanied by three of the more sedate scooter’s disaffected (hooligan?) cousins in the form of the 1200 GS ridden by myself; a delightful friend of mine I never ride without, Nigel, and Steve, also known locally as Mr BMW, who is generously supplying the bike at no charge. We propose to send the bikes to the most northerly BMW dealer in the British Isles – Inverness BMW – and collect them on Thursday 22nd of March, and finish on Monday the 26th with a few days up our sleeves. Another volunteer or two will follow

None of us knows what the future holds for us but at least not knowing allows us to continue with a normal life… to see such a tremendous contributor to our lives dealt such a card is spine-chilling. – good positive messages of support will help him with the long nights. I think I am going to recommend a security guard for his store with a tolerance meter – any client complaining about anything trivial will be ejected down Bromsgrove high street. We have put up a Just Giving site for those of you who would like to donate to the MND research foundation – it can be found at www.justgiving.com/simoncupitt These are the people who put our soldiers

in vehicles, bringing family along to meet us on the way. It will be a trip to remember, even more so of course if the snow stays away! We will run a blog and anyone in the vicinity of our motorway-free route is welcome to get involved. The blog is under construction and will be published next month. Back at the shop, we have recently changed our windows… if only we could as easily change Simon’s neurons!

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| Ethical Jeweller

Fairtrade gold – one year on As Fairtrade Gold celebrates its first birthday, Greg Valerio assesses its effect on the industry thus far. welve months on from the launch of certified Fairtrade Fairmined Gold, I thought I would contact three of the UK’s leading ethical jewellery companies and find out what impact – if any – the launch of Fairtrade has meant for their business. So, to get it straight from the horses’ mouth I asked Alan Frampton, managing director of CRED Jewellery, the designer Jon Dibben and Vivien Johnston of Fifi Bijoux to give me their honest appraisal.

CRED Jewellery If people knew just how much harm was happening to artisanal miners all over the world they would never buy normal gold. Health and safety, child labour, poor environmental practice and poverty are perpetuated by a corrupt system of control by bullion buyers. Where Fairtrade has been the answer to bringing justice to the fresh produce industry, so it is doing the same in the mining industry. It will be difficult for Fairtrade as the values are totally different, but I firmly believe that in the future all precious metals and precious stones will have to authenticate paperwork to prove they have been produced in a responsible way.

80 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

I firmly believe that in the future all precious metals and precious stones will have to authenticate paperwork to prove they have been produced in a responsible way.

This year CRED has paid over £30,000 in premiums directly to benefit the artisanal mining communities. This is very good news for everyone. In February last year we saw the launch of Fairtrade gold. The supply got off to a slow start but by the autumn is was freely available. This all happened as gold was hitting $1900 per troy oz. In 2004 it was $400 per troy oz. – that’s nearly a five times increase over seven years. Given the Fairtrade premium of 10 per cent, we were nearly priced out of the market. Fairtrade activists would support us but the general public were reluctant to pay over £100 more for the same product because it was Fairtrade. As a result we have responded by developing a new website with a more friendly retail environment which has an improved information service that p e o p l e have come to expect from us. We have developed the retail side of the business offering a wider range Alan Frampton of ethically produced jewellery. These two areas are doing well with year-on-year growth of over 30 per cent. Additionally we have created a wholesale wedding ring range that will enable other jewellers to partner with us in making Fairtrade gold available to a wider customer base at competitive prices. We have strengthened the team by bringing in new staff and are collaborating with other industry leaders to find ways of promoting Fairtrade products across the UK. Our first quarter strategy 2012 will be to find a price framework that really works for the consumer in these difficult economic times. High gold values mean we can no longer expect the margins of the past, so we are looking at creating demand by being realistic and aggressive on the price of jewellery while maintaining a clear focus on design, quality and value. www.credjewellery.com

Ethical Jeweller | Jon Dibben

And for the future, publicity definitely has to continue, to keep the story alive in the minds of people and to increase consumer awareness of Fairtrade gold. www.jondibben.co.uk

Fifi Bijoux

Jon Dibben The first year of Fairtrade gold has been very much one of creating a market and educating people. We have had a number of good articles in local magazines and newspapers, although it still amazed me that some didn’t appreciate the magnitude of the story. On the whole customers have been interested to find out more; many have been sceptical until they hear that the Fairtrade Foundation backs the initiative. Throwing in the bit about coffee and bananas really helped to get across the confidence that people should have in the certification process. After a frustrating but understandably slow start to the supply chain, we only really got stuck in to making a number of one off pieces and a small collection in autumn, having finished our debut piece in the summer. We haven’t actually sold any yet, but they are higher priced pieces, so we are not taking this as an indicator of demand. However we have recently finished one quite special commission in Fairtrade gold and just had another one confirmed. As often happens with life, I had my preconceptions challenged, when a young, liberal, educated couple who had sold a high tech gaming company, were not interested in Fairtrade gold, even though what they were commissioning was a copy of a design we had made in Fairtrade. Then, a retired, conservative engineer and his wife, were adamant after our discussion, that their ring had to be Fairtrade. Undoubtedly Fairtrade has been a good thing to be involved with; it was certainly something we all felt strongly about doing, but the gain to our company so far has been the wonder of having a positive story to tell in such challenging times. It is the correct ethical choice if you are interested in helping make other peoples’ difficult lives a little easier.

Fifi Bijoux has been a campaigner and advocate of certification for Fairtrade gold since we launched in 2006. 2011 was particularly exciting to at last see the realisation of this and I was eager to see consumer response. The only available source of certified eco gold is Oro Verde (the project which actually launched Fifi Bijoux and inspired me to create the brand). The eco mark is critical to Fifi Bijoux brand values; I believe that the best models of sustainability are those which will allow complementary industries to continue, or become more prominent when gold supplies deplete. Should the gold price become too low and mining no longer offers a viable income, industries which could offer alternative livelihoods may be harmed by the chemicals used in mining (cyanide and mercury) include fishing, agriculture and tourism. The Fairtrade standard does account for mercury management; but this remains a consideration for long-term development and so for the moment we only offer the ‘triple label’ that meets our ‘triple bottom line’ (people, planet, profit). Due to the limited availability of Oro Verde gold, it is comparatively expensive. However, we’ve had a surge in uptake recently for bespoke pieces. Many of these customers have opted for a coloured gemstone rather than a diamond in their Vivien Johnston

design. The feedback from our customers has been that they would rather have a truly unique ring, made in certified Fairtrade eco gold than stick with tradition. I think this speak volumes of the new generation of conscientious luxury consumers. It’s also a dream come true as a designer. Together with our customers we’re forging not only a new ‘luxury value’ but also pushing creativity and creating exquisite new styles. www.fifibijoux.com

Final thoughts As I reflect on what has been a major marketing shift in the jewellery story, I am both optimistic as well as sobered by the challenges that lay ahead for the Fairtrade pioneers. The economic climate does not look bright for anyone, but it is pleasing to see three companies that have made progress economically with the Fairtrade story and product. Also a review of the websites shows a genuine diversity of design and product that is available to the consumer. Clearly value and design remain a high premium, as well as the more obvious value for money imperative. Challenges I see for Fairtrade gold and its governance will be the issue of the Fairtrade premium and the potentially marginalising impact this will have on the broader commercial adoption if the price of gold remains high in 2012. Also, how quickly and effectively will the UK Fairtrade Foundation drive the consumer awareness campaign around Fairtrade gold and the benefits that the purchase has on people and planet. Gold is not an agricultural consumable product and jewellery is not an average consumer experience. This will require specific marketing strategies to foster broad adoption of Fairtrade gold jewellery so it is demanded on every UK high street. However I have confidence that despite the huge challenges that Fairtrade gold faces in 2012, we will see a steady growth in the number of companies selling Fairtrade gold, more certified miners benefiting from the scheme and more UK consumers asking for Fairtrade gold in their jewellery purchases. Greg Valerio, Founder of Fair Jewellery Action Committee member of NAG/BJA ethics working group www.gregvalerio.com

The Voice of the Industry 81

| Antique Jewellery

Antique JEWELLERY

were still well beyond the financial reach of all but the richest. Not that the silversmithing trade hadn’t tried to overcome this particularly tricky problem, but there simply wasn’t a properly effective way of ‘passing off’ other metals as silver. Boulton and Fothergill Tankard

Sheffield Plate The Yorkshire city of Sheffield has a long and proud history as one of the great powerhouse centres of the industrial revolution – its name synonymous with once-booming steel manufacturing. It is known too, says Jo Young, for the creation of ‘Sheffield’ silver, a plating process that helped to revolutionise the role of silver in the home. ike all the families of precious metals, silver has always been a highly-prized and rather expensive material. It has been in use for many thousands of years, for making ornaments and domestic utensils as well as simply for trade or as the basis for currencies, and was generally considered second in value only to gold. Its use in the home, therefore, has always been as much a declaration of a person’s wealth and status as it has been a practical material choice. For centuries, to have silver in your home in the form of decorative artefacts, domestic objects and utensils marked you out as very privileged indeed; only the wealthiest families could afford to set the table with silver flatware, wine jugs and decorative salts – for the rest of society, these were unobtainable items that people couldn’t imagine owning or using.

Societal change Towards the end of the eighteenth century, however, a curious thing happened. The whole world, economically and therefore socially, was shifting and changing. The burgeoning Industrial Revolution had taken hold and was mobilising people in a way that hadn’t really been seen before: swathes of people moved from rural societies into the new cities to take up new jobs, primarily in manufacturing, and

82 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

for the first time social mobility or social ‘climbing’ (for lack of a better phrase!) became possible on a large scale. People outside the aristocracy were able to think as consumers – buying more than was absolutely essential – for the very first time, blurring what had always been the rigidlydrawn lines between the absolutely rich and the absolutely poor. The aspirational middle class, in short, was born.

Sheffield Plate Naturally enough, the jewellery and silversmithing industries were among many that were keen to take advantage of this newly emerging social group (or at least, their disposable income); in this they were hampered by the unaffordability of their product. The new middle classes might have had more money than they would’ve had tending farmland in centuries gone by, but silver and – lord preserve us, gold – Old Sheffield Plate

Boulsover However, as luck would have it, in 1743 a Sheffield cutler (knife-maker) named Thomas Boulsover (1705-1788) discovered that silver and copper could be heated, fused and formed into a sheet that could be made into objects that had the appearance of sterling silver. In this state, the two metals acted as one, expanding in total unison. Boulsover’s discovery was, in fact, an accident. While repairing the handle on a customer’s decorated knife, he overheated the object and the silver began to melt. Boulsover had a look at what he had done and noticed that the silver and the copper had actually fused together satisfyingly strongly. Even though he could clearly see that they were two ‘layers’ of metal, silver and copper, when he tried to reshape them they acted as one. To his credit, Boulsover was no slouch in recognising the potential of his discovery. Already a member of the Sheffield Cutlers Company, he set up in business and conducted a series of experiments on the two fused metals. He was able to make sheets of metal that had a thin layer of silver on top of a thicker layer of copper underneath; he used the new material to make buttons which, while they looked like silver buttons, he could manufacture at a far lower cost.

Antique Jewellery | Double-sided plating The double sided (or sandwich) form of Sheffield plating was developed around 1770. This was used for items such as bowls or mugs that had a visible interior, and consisted of using a sheet of silver on either side of a sheet of copper. Early manufacturers that used this technique applied a film of solder over the bare edge of the copper, although these pieces are rare. With the creation of double-sided plating, pierced decoration became a plausible form of decoration. From the 1780s, chasing was used to hammer designs into Sheffield Plate, giving a relief pattern. This technique was often used to create decorative borders on hollow ware and on some flatware. Perhaps unsurprisingly, Sheffield Plate took off spectacularly, and there proved to be a real market for silver plated decorative objects. Why wouldn’t there be? After all, these were items that had the appearance of sterling silver, the exclusive preserve of the rich, but at a fraction of the price. Sheffield plate pieces were made and sold not just in Sheffield, where Boulsover’s idea was exploited by the maker Joseph Hancock from the mid 1750s, but also in Birmingham, where the great manufacturer of his day Matthew Boulton lived and worked. Hancock was the first silversmith known to have begun manufacturing these fused pieces in earnest in 1755, while Boulton, who had taken over the running of his father’s Birmingham metals business, used silver plating as a means of significantly

Sheffield Plate took off spectacularly, and there proved to be a real market for silver plated decorative objects… these were items that had the appearance of sterling silver, the exclusive preserve of the rich, but at a fraction of the price.

Matthew Boulton

expanding his operations. The same process was also used in France and in Russia, although almost all the pieces made during this period using this method are now known as Sheffield Plate (or ‘Old’ Sheffield Plate to distinguish it from the electroplated silver that followed). The pieces that tended to be made were, in essence, the same at those being made in sterling silver: buttons, caddy spoons, tea and coffee sets, larger items like urns and decorated tureens, candlesticks and trays and so on. In much the same way as the big names of the high street turn out affordable versions of the haute couture seen on the designer catwalks during London Fashion Week, the Sheffield makers crafted a cheaper, plated version of almost every sterling silver item you could imagine.

Thomas Boulsover memorial in Sheffield

Electroplating In an ironic twist of fate not at all uncommon during the industrial boom years – when the scramble to improve and ‘modernise’ Georgian Tea Caddy

The Voice of the Industry 83

| Antique Jewellery manufacturing techniques was at its height – Sheffield Plate was both born of a revolution in the silversmithing process and fell victim to one a century later. For in 1840, electroplating was invented. This system allowed a thin layer of almost pure silver to be deposited on the base metal, which gave the resultant piece an even less expensive (but arguably less attractive) appearance when it was polished. After 1840, therefore, the old Sheffield plating process was largely abandoned and replaced with electroplating. The old technique was used for a time afterwards for silver plated articles that were subject to particularly heavy wear, like uniform buttons, but these were the exception to the rule. Some ‘hybrid’ pieces were made in the crossover period from 1840 to around 1850, in which the main body of the item

would be made from Old Sheffield Plate and the smaller parts, like the feet of bowls, would be fashioned from electroplate. These items are obviously rare and particularly collectable today.

Value today It is a further irony still, perhaps, to think that Sheffield Plate came into being in order to make silver more affordable – as a means for canny silversmiths to widen their potential customer base to more ‘ordinary’ folk than they had previously been reaching – and yet the rarity of ‘old’ plate pieces has made them occasionally more expensive in the modern market than similar work rendered in sterling silver. Old Sheffield silver was made, approximately, for about a century from the 1740s and as such, stylistically, it is mostly Georgian.

It is an irony that Sheffield Plate came into being to make silver more affordable… and yet the rarity of ‘old’ plate pieces has made them occasionally more expensive in the modern market than similar work in sterling silver.

the

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Ensure you are kept in the know with a subscription to the only jewellery trade magazine that is exclusively supported by the industry’s two key trade bodies for retailers and manufacturers – The National Association of Goldsmiths and The British Jewellers Association. Normal cost of annual subscription including postage and packing = £77.00. With 20% saving you pay only £61.60. Subscribe at our stand (Hall 17 T49) at the Jewellery Show or complete this form and return by the end of February to: The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

84 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

Elkington Old Sheffield marks

Many of the earliest pieces that come up also carry family crests and coats of arms. To choose to engrave your crest on silver plate rather than solid silver might seem unusual, given that such affectations tended to be the preserve of royalty and wealthy aristocracy. Perhaps this suggests the possibility that (then as now) some folk weren’t quite as grand as they liked to make out. Or perhaps (then as now) it tells us that fashion is a peculiar business, and that Sheffield plate objects, the result of the enterprising Mr Boulsover’s accidental discovery, were for a time among the ‘must have’ items for the trendiest of homes.

Yes, I would like to subscribe to The Jeweller for a period of 12 months at discounted cost of £61.60 (UK cost), normally £77.00 including postage and packaging. I enclose a cheque for £61.60 payable to NAG I would like to pay by credit card*/switch (Please tick your chosen payment method. * Payment by credit card will incur a 2% surcharge) Card number: _______________________________________ Expiry Date: ________________________________________ Name on card: ______________________________________ Type of card (e.g. Visa): _______________________________ Issue no. if Switch: ___________________________________ Company: __________________________________________ Name of Recipient: __________________________________ Mailing Address: _____________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ Telephone: _________________________________________ Email: _____________________________________________

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Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see… Setting Up a Successful Jewellery Business by Angie Boothroyd (£12.99 paperback, A&C Black) This book equips a jeweller with the essential business knowledge and tools to set up their own jewellery business. This might mean a college graduate looking to set up a workshop, or an established executive hoping for a change in career direction. The author (a designer maker and teacher) takes the reader through all aspects of starting out, from the boring but necessary admin through to marketing and visual identity.

The Complete Jewellery Maker by Jinks McGrath (£16.99 A&C Black) Within the pages of this guide is everything from basic tools and materials and setting up a workshop (health and safety included) through to advanced making techniques and the principals of designing. The author, a designer maker who has worked with crafts people in India, Africa and Thailand, talks readers through (with step-by-step images) a range of projects from a hat pin to a filigree necklace.

Sales & Exhibitions

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

January Current until 9th September: Mine to Medals – the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games medals, The British Museum, London (free) A display telling the story of the production of the medals designed by jewellers David Watkins and Lin Cheung. www.britishmuseum.org

January 29th-31st: Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair Exclusive event for invited diamond buyers. www.antwerpdiamondfair.com

February 1st (preview), 2nd (public sale): Silver Sale, National Museum of Women in the Arts, London West Bank Gallery A selected group of UK contemporary female jewellers and silversmiths, including ethical jeweller Ute Decker, have been brought together to help the NMWA celebrate its silver anniversary. silver@nmwa-uk.org March 2nd-4th: Desire, Richmond Jewellery and silversmithing consumer show featuring designers such as Ana Verdun, Daniel Gallie and Paul Spurgeon. www.info@craftinfocus.com

February 2nd-6th: Iberjoya, Feria de Madrid, Spain International fashion and costume jewellery and accessories show. www.isema.es 5th-9th: The Jewellery Show 2012 at Spring Fair International, NEC Birmingham See p46 for a full show preview www.jewelleryshow.com

Collect Contemporary Jewelry by Joanna Hardy (£12.95 Thames & Hudson) If you want a heads-up on what tomorrow’s antiques might be – as far as the current jewellery market is concerned – this book can help. Hardy (ex Sotheby’s) has selected makers and pieces (to suit all tastes) that have ‘timeless collectibles’ written all over them. Background data on materials and techniques, a care guide, profiles of artists and a useful reference section are included. Russian Winter by Daphne Kalotay (£7.99 Arrow) Well, it can’t be said that they come along very often, but here we have the second novel revolving around jewellery in as many years. So, for those looking for a little postChristmas escapism (but in the safe and smug knowledge that there’s a kind of work connection) here’s a story that combines a literary mystery, ballet, romance, a history lesson, auction houses and amber jewellery.

12th-14th: Pure London 2012, Olympia Fashion, accessories and jewellery show. www.purelondon.com 16th-20th: Hong Kong International Jewellery show: HK Convention & Exhibition Centre. Diamond, coloured gemstone and pearl jewellery from around 2,800 exhibitors. www.hktdc.com 23rd-26th: Gem & Jewellery India International Exhibition, Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India The seventh edition of this fine jewellery and gemstone, Southern India fair www.jewellerynetasia.com

9th-13th: Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, Impact Exhibition & Convention Center, Bangkok, Thailand Leading Thai and international exhibitors www.bangkokgemsfair.com

March 8th-15th: BaselWorld, Basel, Switzerland See p68 for a full preview. www.baselworld.com

10th-13th: Inhorgenta Munich, New Munich Trade Fair Centre, Germany International trade fair for jewellery, watches, gemstones, pearls, silver and technology. www.inhorgenta.com

21st-24th: Amberif, Exhibition Center, Gdansk, Poland International fair for amber, fine jewellery and gemstones. www.amberif.pl

The Voice of the Industry 85

| Letters

Letters to the Editor

The first letter out of 2012’s post bag asks whether retailers are getting a raw deal from jewellery brands.

Increasing challenges of the high street

t times like this, when we need support from our suppliers – who have relied upon us as retailers to be the face of their brand on the high street – their support seems conspicuous by its absence. As retailer jewellers we have committed to playing our part in building awareness and giving ethos to their brand by giving it exposure in prime window space and ‘showing and telling’ it with well-trained and informed staff in often expensive prime site retail space. We offer the client the opportunity to touch and feel the product and willingly offer advice and act as their after-sales service department too. It is therefore galling, to say the least, at a time when high street shopping as we know it is under threat, that some brands/ distributors of watches and jewellery are likely to bring about a more rapid demise to high street shopping as we know it, by their hunger for numbers on a spreadsheet. Respect for our loyalty and the important part we have played as retailers would be appreciated; but to me, sadly, they appear to willingly sell their soul for the sake of adding the exciting numbers that Amazon and/or TV shopping channels add to their yearly ’stats’. Little thought appears to be given to their brand integrity – which appears to

86 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

be undermined and eroded by aggressive marketing and promotions by companies hell-bent on brand collecting as means of driving traffic to their sites. There’s little thought of the consequence to the longevity and of the detrimental damage to the integrity they inflict on that brand. Equally, there are brands/distributors that want to have their cake and to eat it too; they sell to us as stockists, then, with their own consumer websites, directly and aggressively endeavour to sell to our customers too, with offers and free gifts.

Yes, sometimes value for money can mean having the opportunity to consult with an informed, customer-friendly trained staff that can champion the brand and give an opportunity to the customer to touch and feel the product. But, yes, that experience has a cost to the retailer – time, investment and a fixed cost commitment to a brand that could be seen as not appreciated. Competition by fixed-site retail jewellers seeking to widen their customer base through e-commerce is one thing but I would say in no uncertain terms: we will not accept you selling to non-fixed retail sites either directly or indirectly. Brands should act responsibly in an industry that has backed them from their fledgling days as a supplier. Control your brands responsibly and support those that have supported you otherwise you potentially risk losing the trust of your retailers and the prime shop windows they have afforded you as a showcase for your brand. That space is valuable and we need a return on our capital investment or your brand will have to be replaced with something that can deliver a more profitable sell through. It would be interesting to see who the worst offending manufacturers are. I have my own list of names. I informed them I was not happy, asked them why or what they were doing to police the manner in which their brand was being used. Some appeared not have any control; some alas chose to make excuses and appear to just bury their head in the sand… and as a result, many I simply de-listed. I am an open-minded retailer and invite suppliers to enter into this debate to justify what some would see as the undermining of their

It is therefore galling… that some brands/ distributors of watches and jewellery are likely to bring about a more rapid demise to high street shopping as we know it, by their hunger for numbers on a spreadsheet. Unless these suppliers get a grip on their brands and the way in which they route them to market, I can see a time when many jewellers like us will start to question whether we are prepared to be the face of their brand – picking over the small offering of sales left to the high street. Being asked by customers for manufacturers’ codes has grown and is now becoming a common occurrence.

brand integrity. I will look forward to reading their comments maybe for the interest of fellow readers through this magazine. Suppliers/distributors – there has never been a time when we need your loyal support more. Keith Peters Managing Director, The Jewellers Guild Ltd, Newcastle, Cramlington and Morpeth NAG Member

Letters | We asked brand consultant Jonathan Crocker of Vaeta to respond to Mr Peters’ letter – his reaction is given below. ost brands are machines, some fine and sexy, some not so fine and ordinary, but machines nonetheless. Exploring the origin of the brand and going back to the source however, it always comes back to creativity, craftsmanship, ideas and innovation or in the best an authentic mixture of all of these. These are largely opposing statements, so for me it is not a surprise that there is much discussion and controversy around the subject. As we face the continuing economic crisis, I believe we should ask the question – the real question – “What changed?” Pre crisis, in the heady capitalistic, allconsuming, insatiable brand days, not more than three years ago, traditional independent retail was already in a chronic situation. Department stores, chain stores, online stores, discount stores, outlet stores and supermarkets had already turned attention to the category and had eroded sales significantly. So consumers both then and now have amazing choice and an ever-increasing ease to buy the things that they do not need (luxury goods). But now we have absolutely and categorically entered a new era in retail! So THIS is what really changed:• The only successful model of the future for retail is a seamless hybrid between on and offline offers. Look at the biggest

retail winners this Christmas if you need any convincing. This will only increase in fact. • Luxury (in fact all) retail is going to be all about value and experience both current and future wise. Less of higher quality is far better than more of lower quality. • Customer experience is the only reason for any modern shopper to visit a store. Therefore the customer experience has to be worth travelling for – expertise, conversation, service and advice. Now, like retailers, brands have suffered and are suffering. Even very successful brands in the last three years have an increasingly ferocious list of problems – material costs, bad debt, redundant stock, angry share holders and fulfilling promises to name but a few. Most of the brands are trying new ways to stabilise and re-establish their strengths and inevitably some are tempted into new channels. If you want to know a particular brand’s strategy take a look at its structure (the people it employs) its vision (what is says it stands for) and carefully take a look at its communications. These elements will give you a very firm indication of what it wants to achieve and what it will do (or not do) to achieve it. Oh and why not have a meaningful conversation with the CEO – they are often quite frank about what they

want and how they are going to achieve it. However as I am sure everyone knows brands have the tendency to change direction, so this remains a volatile and vibrant place to be. A vital strategic question to ask as a retailer is “Why does a brand need me?” Answer: “I know the customer. I attract the customer to visit my shop, where I build a relationship with him/her – they trust me and my opinion. In other words I give a great customer experience – visiting my store is a real pleasure”. If this is not the case then any amount of brand support and strategic vision will not be the answer to sustain the retail business in question. If conversely a retailer has that type of customer relation then a brand can be a powerful ally to leverage and add value to the store.

Even very successful brands in the last three years have an increasingly ferocious list of problems… So my short reflection is that, independent retailers, are exactly that – free to choose the brands that best suit their customers and their values. But importantly this does not have to be exclusive and it does not have to be static. For as brands develop they may become more or less suitable for a particular store and conversely, as a store develops it may out grow or replace what was once a ‘dead-cert’ brand. Successful retail business is a mix of store (location, design and housekeeping), people (presentation, selling and nurturing), marketing (bringing people to the store and building a great reputation) and finally (not least importantly though) the mix of products that are offered there for sale. If you want to know if a brand cares about your business, ask them to spend some time with you – in your store – to help you improve one or all of the parameters above. From the response and subsequent action you will have all the information you need to decide if that brand is right for you or not. Jonathan Crocker, who is MD of VAETA & board member of BRIQ GROUP can be contacted via: feedback@jeweller-online.org The Jeweller also welcomes your views on this topic. Email: bmorris@colony.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 87

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Last Word We are offering the first Last Word of 2012 to Mark Adlestone, MD of Beaverbrooks the Jewellers, a past NAG chairman and currently a multiple retailer representative on the NAG council. Personal Profile Mark, grandson of one of the shop's founders, joined Beaverbrooks in 1979, became joint managing director in 1990 and sole managing director in 2000. The company currently has 65 stores nationwide. Under his watch the store has garnered numerous accolades, including being placed in the top four in the Sunday Times Top 100 ‘Best Companies to Work For’ category – in 2009 coming first. The store was awarded the ‘Lifetime Achievement Award’ in 2008. Beaverbrooks has a very strong emphasis on charity and donates 20 per cent of its net profit annually. It is also very keen to expose all its employees to the concept of charitable involvement and so gives each person two days per year of paid time to work for a charity of their choice. How would you describe your personal style? Consultative, developmental and paternalistic. What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? In my view – focused, determined and caring. According to others – inspirational, focused and caring. Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? Nothing. I have learnt so much along the way, making mistakes as well as enjoying great successes. It has been fun, challenging and rewarding and I wouldn’t change a thing.

90 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2012

If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? There would be controlled metal prices with gradual year on year inflationary increases. The speculation that drives commodity prices is damaging to the jewellery industry. What book are you reading at the moment? Jerusalem The Biography by Simon Sebag Montefiore. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Skiing in the Alps – Courchevel 1850, France – a wonderful family holiday.

To what do you attribute your success? Firstly, building a great team around me and secondly, holding a deep and innate respect for the value of every person I meet. If not the jewellery business, what might your career have been? I would have gravitated towards finance in some capacity. Tell us something not many people know about you… I slept in my wife’s bed before I met her! Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!) – why? HMV – Oxford Street, London. I am a bit of a Luddite and still collect CDs. This is one of the few stores left which stocks CDs in serious depth. What a great shame! Do you Tweet? No#Twitter?! Quick fire (no deliberating) • Red or white wine? Red • Diamonds or coloured stones? Diamonds • White or yellow metal? White • TV or radio? Both • Jewellery on men? Not on this man • Delegator or control freak? Delegator – my natural inclination would lean me towards being a control freak but over time I have adopted the learned behaviours of delegation… while still asking a lot of questions! • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Both – in fact I am a passionate and eclectic collector of rock and pop music. I have over 2,350 albums and 450 vinyl singles.