Jeweller g&j (oct 2014) by Zest Europe

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October 2014

ÂŁ7.50

The Voice of The Industry

Incorporating

Gems&Jewellery

October 2014 / Volum e 23 / No. 8

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Platinum and palladium review Made in Britain â&#x20AC;&#x201D; why we should be flying the flag ... Highlights from IJL

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Jeweller

Contents & Contacts |

the

The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

O C T

1 4

Jolly Good Show

Editor’s Letter

Rawlinson Speaks Out

Industry News

Highlights from a successful IJL and a pick of some favourite pieces

The White Stuff

International News

N.A.G. News

Member of the Month

IRV Review

Education & Training

Association Benefits

Business Support: Insurance

Brand Profile

Notebook

Display Cabinet

Last Word

A look at platinum and palladium – still leading the precious white metal market?

Security Conference 2014

Join our our-day conference on crime facing the jewellery industry – can you afford not to be there?

Flying the flag

In the face of stiff global competition, Belinda Morris checks the pulse of the UK jewellery industry

October 2014 / Volume

Gems&Jewellery

23 / No. 8

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

IJL 2014 review, new instruments and technologies at SSEF, Ocean Jasper explained and more… Ocean Jas Diamon per Advance d lab no d instru menclat mentatio ure n, advan ced learni ng

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street,

Cover Image The Rosabella range by Domino 3–8 Vyse Street, Birmingham B18 6LT Tel: +44 (0) 121 236 4772 http://dominojewellery.com HSN001 – Necklace • HSE1012PR – Earrings HSB025(MED) – Cuff

London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org CEO: Michael Rawlinson michaelr@jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris bmorris@colony.co.uk

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7749 1705 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian@jewellers-online.org Publishing Enquiries/ Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Robert Eden, Gordon Hamme, Marion Wilson

Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org

Product available in 18ct alloys only The NAG is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

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4 The Jeweller October 2014

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Comment |

Editor’s

Letter

This month: “…the kudos associated with platinum and the fact that the consumer is more likely to appreciate the weight of an item

xisting as I do on the periphery of this fascinating and lovely industry – an observer,

in it… definitely make

chronicler and frustrated retailer – my knowledge of it is, necessarily, second-hand. So,

it much more popular…”

when the opportunity arises to further my education, I tend to grab it rather greedily. The IRV’s Loughborough Conference held last month, was just one such opportunity. While the valuer is at the heart of this weekend of insight and instruction, the fact that I always come away with my head full of ideas and a better comprehension of the nuts and bolts of the business, is testament to Loughborough’s accessibility. The fact that those who have worked in the industry for many years (and have impressive letters after their names) also leave better informed than when they arrived, is proof of its great value. On p28 you can find the first of a two-part review of this year’s event. Conferences aside, I’m fortunate however, that every issue of The Jeweller offers the

Page 34

chance for me to learn a little more. Every in-depth feature involves picking the brains of industry insiders and seeking the opinions of those in the know. A subject like ‘made in Britain’ (p44) was always going to require observations, viewpoints and convictions from across a wide range of experiences and standpoints. Jewellery manufacturing in the UK is a subject that blends cold, hard facts with faith, hope and passion, and we intend to delve deeper into it in future issues of the magazine. Less emotive, but requiring just as much expert knowledge, was my report this month on platinum and its place in the jewellery world (p34). It’s always had a significant role to

“Retaining and developing skills in the UK is something we have a passionate belief in –

play of course (particularly for wedding and engagement rings) but now that there’s less

once skills are lost to

gnashing of teeth over the price of gold than there was, I felt it was about time that the most

overseas production

precious of precious metals came under the spotlight again. It’s as bright, shiny and in demand as ever. Sadly, the sparkling, valuable nature of a jeweller’s stock means that it’s also in demand

it is very difficult to get them back again…”

among the less salubrious members of our society. There’s just time to book a space at this month’s Security Conference where you can gather vital information on making your staff, stock and store less vulnerable. A little extra learning is never a dangerous thing.

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 44

The Voice of the Industry 5

Security Conference

Headline sponsor:

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Secure the future of your business at the N.A.G Security Conference The conference will focus on: t Insights on Snatch and Grab techniques t Robbery â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Crime Prevention t Courier Fraud t Current CCTV Technology t Security Procedures for Travelling Representatives t Online and Card Payment Fraud t Practical Demonstrations This conference is free to N.A.G. and BJA members, TH March clients.(All other delegates only ÂŁ50) You must register in advance for this event. For registration and further information please contact Hannah Harvey on 020 7613 4445 or events@jewellers-online.org. Event supported by:

*Please note that this is a preliminary program and subject to change prior to the conference

In conjunction with:

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS

Comment |

Rawlinson

speaks out he jewellery industry justly prides itself on living by the principles of honesty, openness and trust. Sadly, however, we know that not everyone in our communities lives by these same high standards. And it is for this reason that we have brought together a number of authorities on the subject of security to form the basis of our second Security Conference. The security of your business is, of course, paramount and I hope you will consider attending both to increase your knowledge base and to gain valuable insights into key measures that you can adopt to increase protection levels. We accept that this aspect of your business is not as inspiring as the products you handle every day, but we are convinced that, as the day unfolds, our lively on-the-spot demonstrations will inspire you to take action that can deliver some very real benefits. Further details of the day and how to book can be found on page 42.

financial penalty, a refund, repair or other compensation claim. Another area where you can risk damage to your reputation, of course, is when your staff are unable to handle a customer’s question efficiently or knowledgeably. Have you ever considered the possible consequences if they give advice that’s confusing, misleading or just plain wrong? As a result, a reputation that might well have been built over years, decades or even generations can be blown apart in minutes, especially since the ever-increasing use of social media allows disgruntled customers to quickly share their views and experiences with anyone who’s prepared to listen. While I’m on the subject of the dangers we face every day, I know that many of our members also place their businesses at risk in the preparation of valuations. I appreciate that there are differences of opinion regarding the need to be a member

...what we will want to achieve, [as a unified body] is to do more and achieve more than the two organisations have done on their own in the past... At IJL recently, I spoke, as part of a Responsible Jewellery Council panel, about the need to source your stock responsibly. Why? Simply because it makes good business sense and minimises your risk in a number of key areas. The fact is that, whenever you make a sale, you are under a legal obligation to trade honestly and fairly and, if you’re unaware of the full facts surrounding whatever it is you are selling, you run the risk of being prosecuted under consumer protection legislation. Not only that but, even if the customer or trading standards fails to prosecute, it could still lead to a

of the Institute of Registered Valuers in order to do valuations but even when I cast my own untrained eye over some recent valuations supposedly produced by professional jewellers, quite frankly, I shudder! Accordingly, if you do undertake valuations within the normal course of your business, I’d implore you to attend the Loughborough Conference for valuers. I was delighted to attend, for the second time, last month and I have to say the experience was genuinely inspiring. The workshops are so practical and accessible that even those who have attended many of the 25 previous confer-

ences still come away armed with new insights! The first of a two-part report on the event is on page 20, with a follow-up review in our next issue. Meanwhile, on an entirely positive note, preparations are now well underway for our amalgamation with the British Jewellers’ Association. I think it’s important to remember that trade associations are not commercial ventures – any negative comparisons to other vertical mergers, such as those in the power industry for example, simply are not relevant to us. Trade associations always represent vested interests and the new unified body will be no different. What will be different, however, is that we will be able to speak with one voice and, where there are differences of opinion within sections of the supply chain, we will have to either agree to disagree or present two alternative points of view. In practical terms, there will be no substantial difference from where we are now. But what we will want to achieve, and I’ll be leading the way on this, is to do more and achieve more than the two organisations have done on their own in the past. We all need to remember that what was done previously is soon forgotten and our focus needs to be on what we will do in the future. To this end, and finally, please keep an eye on your inboxes for a survey we are sending out to get your feedback on what you want to see from the new unified association. Please do take the time to respond. I’m very much looking forward to hearing what you have to say…

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Successes/awards at IJL uying and selling might have been a visitor’s priority while at International Jewellery London last month, but there were plenty of mini side shows and distractions for those needing a breather. The successful seminar programme and inspirational catwalk shows aside, there were a number of events and awards to attend around the hall over the three days. Proceedings got off to a flying start with the inaugural late night shopping, which was kicked-off successfully by a BJA-organised Charity Auction, which raised over £3,000 for the Breast Cancer Care cause. The star lot of a hand-crafted charm bracelet, designed by Sarah Jordan and cast by Birmingham’s Hockley Mint, with individual charms created by high-profile designers, was successfully bid for by N.A.G. member Julia Clarke of Hester Clarke. The Association’s CEO Michael Rawlinson opened the sale by being the first triumphant bidder… for a pair of Deakin & Francis

cufflinks, while Chris Garland from Bransom was successful on two lots. The popular English Tea Rooms was the setting for the presentation of prizes for F Hinds’ High Street by Design Awards. Eleven-year-old Ella Miles travelled from

Andrew Hinds with winners Ella and Winnie

TH March's design competition winner

Julia Clarke of Hester Clarke shows off her charity charm bracelet, with (left to right) Alexander Davis, Natalie Towell of Navette and Sarah Jordan, and Lindsey straughton, BJA, and Sarah Kitley-Spencer, IJL.

Four jewellers hit in Argyll Arcade raid our masked men armed with sledgehammers and axes staged a daylight raid on four jewellers in Glasgow’s Argyll Arcade last month. A number of high-end watches were stolen from Rox, but bids to rob Mappin & Webb, Laing the Jeweller and Lewis Grant all failed. “We can confirm that the Rox store in the Argyll Arcade, Glasgow, was targeted by armed robbers on the 24th September 2014. Staff are badly shaken but thankfully no-one was hurt,” says a spokesperson for the store.

8 The Jeweller October 2014

“A stocktake is underway. However, luxury watches from brands including Hublot (as shown right) and Bell & Ross were taken. Initial estimates suggest that around £250,000 of stock was taken. A full list of stock with serial numbers has been issued to the police. “The store re-opened for business this morning [25th September] and our main priority is the safety and well-being of our staff. We have employed a full-time security guard in the shop to give our

Paignton in Devon to be recognised for her seaside-inspired piece (Under 12 Years category), while established jewellery designer Winnie Lestari of East Java, Indonesia, took time out of her European holiday to collect her prize. Gem-A’s Gem Empathy Award (given to the exhibitor displaying a single piece or collection that makes captivating use of one or more gemstones) went to PJ Watson for a stunning tourmaline and diamond peacock feather brooch in 18ct white gold. Meanwhile, TH March’s first-ever ‘Make Your Mark’ competition for budding jewellery designer makers, was awarded to Elizabeth Harvey. The Holts Academy Level 2 Jewellery Manufacturing student had just five months bench experience when she entered the competition.

staff extra peace of mind. The matter is now in the hands of the police and we have no further comment at this time.” The raid was photographed and recorded on mobile phones by shoppers. Police say that the four men, all wearing black and of slim build, fled the scene (and a cloud of smoke) and escaped in a white hatchback car.

Industry News |

Gold Fairmined standard recognised he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) have announced that Fairmined Standard v.2.0, the landmark mining standard for the artisanal and small-scale gold mining sector, is now officially recognised as a Responsible Mining Standard under the RJC Chain of Custody (CoC) Standard for precious metals. This aims to further incentivise artisanal miners to become certified under the Fairmined Standard, and recognises the work of ARM in creating this programme for the sector. To accomplish a more sustained market growth with larger gold volumes sourced from Fairmined certified organisations, the Fairmined Standard now provides brands with three different innovative sourcing models: Labeled, Incorporated and Fairmined Certificates that respond to the demand and nature of a broad variety of businesses wishing to support responsible artisanal small-scale mining through sourcing of Fairmined Gold.

S N I P P E T S

Charity funds raised at Loughborough em-A, a sponsor of last month’s IRV Loughborough Conference, offered a free place on its Diamond Diploma Course (worth over £2,500), which was won by MIRV Mark Porter of Hook. As Mr Porter is close to retirement and his son has passed the exam, the prize was donated via an auction during the Conference. The winning bid of £1,400 went to Simon Johnson, N.A.G. vice chairman and owner of Marmalade, who will enrol his employee Janina Layton onto the course. The money will be divided equally between the ‘Five Alps for Simon Challenge’ in memory of Simon Cupitt for the Motor Neurone Disease Association, and the Goldsmiths, Silversmiths & Jewellers Benevolent Society. Funds were also raised for the N.A.G. Century Trust as guests donated £5 to guess the number of midget gems in a jar. The winner, Tony Saggers of Probative Value, also decided to auction his prize – a 50 per cent discount towards next year’s Conference – for charity and the winning bid of £400 was made by FIRV John Sayer of Wells. Gem-A also donated a prize of £500 to spend in its shop on equipment and books, to a CAT Student, which was won by Daniel Remmert of Mallard Jewellers & Pawnbrokers. Sponsor AnchorCert donated free places on three of its seminars and another prize was offered by sponsor TH March, which will pay the accommodation and meal costs for delegate Stephen Park of Christopher Stephens, Lyndhurst, to attend the 2015 IRV Conference. There were three nominees for the two vacancies on the IRV Committee: MIRV Rupert Huddy (standing for election), FIRV Shirley Mitchell and FIRV Barry Sullivan (standing for re-election). Mitchell and Sullivan received the most votes and will continue to serve the Committee for a further three years.

Links unveils AW14 campaign inks of London has launched its new advertising campaign for Autumn/Winter, featuring new additions to the classic Hope collection, including the white topaz earrings and Hope silver necklaces. Also shown in the pared-back images (a new look from Links) are pieces from Diamond Essentials, the Sweetie range, men’s jewellery and watches from the Brompton and Regent lines. As well as ‘model shots’ the campaign also includes still life images featuring the iconic gift packaging.

Hoptroff launches at Salon QP The new British luxury watch brand, Hoptroff, will be unveiling its first atomic wristwatch to the press and public at Salon QP next month. Designed by Richard Hoptroff, the two-dial No16 is a progression from No10, the first atomic timepiece ever built, and incorporates eight complications. It is the most accurate wristwatch in the world, accurate to one and a half seconds per thousand years when in full atomic mode. Jewellery & Watch 2015 re-bookings increase Jewellery & Watch Birmingham has revealed that 85 per cent of it 2014 exhibitors have chosen to return for the 2015 event (1st – 5th February). The figure represents the most successful re-book for the show and many of the brands are opting for larger stands, says organiser i2i Events Group. A number of new names will be joining the returning exhibitors and among the brands that have confirmed attendance are: Hot Diamonds, Fei Liu, Tresor Paris, Domino, Chavin, Gecko, Clogau, Bering Time, Lars Larsen, Storm and O.W.L. watches. GIA introduces low-cost fees GIA has implemented a new, lower-cost fee structure for Quality Assurance services, effective immediately. The service is specifically designed to screen parcels of D-to-Z diamonds and coloured diamonds up to 0.20 carats for synthetics or treatments. The new fee structure reduces the existing per-stone fee from $12 to $10 for diamonds between 0.06 and 0.20 carats and to $5 for diamonds 0.05 carats and smaller, creating a more affordable screening option for clients.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Ratner speaks at CMJ Conference erald Ratner, whose name is still synonymous with one of the worst industry gaffes, 23 years after his ‘total crap’ comment, was the headline speaker at the Company of Master Jewellers’ UK Jewellery Business Conference earlier this month. The error (named in one list as No1 in the ‘Worst 50 mistakes of all time’ led to the break-up of the family jewellery chain, but Ratner has since clawed his way back into the industry, which he spoke about candidly. Ratner joined Conference host Bill Turnbull from BBC’s Breakfast show and a line up of other speakers from the jewellery and watch world, as well as the wider retail industry, including John Timpson, Andrew McMillan from John Lewis, author Damian Hughes and jewellery trends and branding expert Paola de Luca. The two-day ‘Brilliant Together’ CMJ conference was sponsored by TH March, Gem-A and V12 Finance.

F Hinds call for business rates overhaul igh street jeweller F Hinds was one of over 100 companies – and the only jeweller – who called for business rates to be overhauled in an open letter. Taking a full page advertisement in The Daily Telegraph on 16th September, the companies (including M&S, Boots, John Lewis and Costa) described the controversial tax a ‘critical problem’ and calls for all political parties to commit to a ‘fundamental reform’ of the tax in their manifestos. It adds: “A modern, sustainable and transparent system would unleash investment that could bring skilled and entry level jobs and new and expanded businesses into our local communities. Those who seek a competitive tax regime as a draw for investment and jobs should apply that logic to business rates.” Helen Dickinson, director-general of the British Retail Consortium, said the breadth of industries represented in the letter “shows the strength of our collective belief that the existing system is no longer fit for purpose”.

Harriet Kelsall to give design award .A.G. member Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery will present a ‘special Award’ at the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Awards 2015. The retailer has teamed up with the musician Corinna Jane who will be the inspiration for the design competition – entrants are invited to view a video of her performing and then design jewellery pieces which reflect her talent and lifestyle. The competition is open to all those working or studying within the jewellery industry and the winner will receive £1,000 at the Awards ceremony in March. No stranger to unusual design briefs, HK Bespoke Jewellery launched its first bespoke competition in 2012… via YouTube. Entrants were tasked to design a ring for a fictitious customer, played by an actress who described her lifestyle on video.

Shotgun designs by SHO ward-winning designer Sarah Ho of SHO Fine Jewellery has designed a collection of cocktail rings in collaboration with Mayfair luxury goods store William & Son. Founded by William Asprey, a seventh generation member of the Asprey family, the business sells jewellery and accessories as well as handmade shotguns. Ho’s collection is inspired the engraving that is an integral part of the guns’ design, and features brilliant cut diamonds set in 18ct gold, together with aquamarine, rose quartz, amethyst or yellow citrine.

10 The Jeweller October 2014

S N I P P E T S Tudor selects 100 stores Tudor Watches, which is part of the Rolex Group, has selected 100 UK stores to stock its watches, among them N.A.G. members Rox, Beaverbrooks and Johnson Jewellers of Nuneaton. The Tudor brand was founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, and was created to be a less expensive sister to Rolex. Goldmajor’s 30th anniversary Renowned amber jewellery brand, Goldmajor, celebrates 30 years in the industry this year. The business was established by Bob Rontaler, who began his career, following university, as a manager for a jewellery manufacturing company. As he developed a vision for starting his own brand, he also recognised that there was a demand for design-led amber jewellery. Henderson goes it alone Jo Henderson, who was senior brand manager at Fei Liu, has left the Birmingham-based designer company in order to pursue a career in jewellery consultancy, with the launch of her firm JHJC. Henderson was the co-founder of Wave Contemporary Jewellery. JHJC will offer training and business development consultancy to retailers and brands. New De Beers ad De Beers Diamond Jewellery has launched its latest ad campaign to highlight pieces in its Aria Collection of High Jewellery, Collection models and watches. The low-key black and white images have been photographed by Mary McCartney and are aimed to epitomise ‘natural beauty’ and the brand’s ‘Jeweller of Light’ motif. An Instagram competition encourages consumers to upload their ideas of natural beauty.

| Industry News

Garden BID update ollowing a meeting with Cllr Phil Jones, it has been agreed that in support of the jewellery trade, Camden will match seed funding raised by the Hatton Garden BID committee. The Council is prepared to support the trade up to a maximum of £100,000, which is around half of the estimated cost of preparing the BID, over the two year period. The BID fund committee therefore needs to raise around £100,000 from local supporters. The first phase of the BID process is now underway; Primavera Corporation has been appointed as the developer. All donations will be gratefully received and carefully applied. Instead of cash the committee would also be very happy to receive free services to support the process. It needs printing, branding, web construction, social media and office space. It also needs a local 'pro bono' lawyer. Presman Mastermelt is the first local business to donate to the BID fund and has pledged £5k. “We recognise the need to invest and improve the area so that the local jewellery industry can benefit from the economic growth which Crossrail at Farringdon will bring, when it opens in 2018,” says MD Tony Bransbury. For details or to offer help, contact Gary Williams, deputy chairman of the BJA: 020 7400 3400 or email: garywilliams@mastermelts.co.uk

Allum & Sidaway skydive for charity ason Allum, managing director of Allum & Sidaway and 10 of his staff members took part in a skydive last month, raising at least £11,000 for Air Ambulances for Dorset & Somerset, Hampshire & Isle of Wight and Wiltshire, and Guide Dogs for the Blind. Allum & Sidaway raises funds for its chosen charity every year. As well as this event, fund raising was supported in all five stores – in Shaftesbury, Gillingham, Dorchester, Ringwood and Salisbury – by donating all battery monies. “It was a great experience for us all but the money we have raised is truly fantastic,” says Allum. “I thank the employees who jumped at the chance to skydive and raised lots of money through friends and relatives and of course our stores and customers who have been so generous in their support. This has proved our most successful fund raising year so far.” Last month the family business was the winner of a Customer Service Award, having been nominated in four categories of the Blackmore Vale Business Excellence Awards 2014.

Engagement ring survey surprise ccording to a survey conducted by UK online diamonds and jewellery e-commerce site Diamonds Factory, 36 per cent of women would have preferred to choose their own engagement ring. It revealed that one in six of the UK consumers polled were unhappy when they saw their ring for the first time, despite the fact that almost half of them gave their partner detailed instructions of what their dream ring should be. The survey also showed that almost a quarter of men found choosing the ring to be more nerve-wracking than the big day itself, with 14 per cent of them admitting that they were unhappy with their purchase. Almost all women agreed that that the man’s choice of ring was a direct reflection of how well their partner knew them. An average of 11 days was spent finding the perfect ring, with a 34 per cent of men making a rushed decision within just two days. Just two per cent searched for more than three months before purchasing a ring for their partner.

12 The Jeweller October 2014

S N I P P E T S Jewellery line raises funds for homeless charity A new jewellery collection launched by goldsmith Julia Cook will raise funds for a charity, St Mungo’s Broadway, which supports homeless people. ‘Unity’, the range of gold and silver bracelets, earrings and necklaces was previewed earlier this month at Cook’s Victoria Park shop in east London. A quarter of the proceeds will go towards the charity’s Rebuilding Shattered Lives appeal, which will help homeless women. The collection, priced between £20 and £1,000+ is available from Branch on the Park, Hackney and online: www.branchonthepark.co.uk Security doors and locks foil jewellery robbery Security doors made by Warrior played a major part in foiling a recent armed robbery attempt at a jewellers’ shop in Birmingham. As the shop filled with fog from a security device, the robbers opened the internal door but then found themselves imprisoned in the airlock area between the two doors. Helping to trap the robbers was a three-point lock for access control systems made by Pickersgill-Kaye. NOMOS Glashütte celebrates anniversary of Berlin Wall fall German watch brand NOMOS Glashütte is celebrating the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, with a special edition watch – Orion 1989. This version of its classic model is in grey with golden indexes and hands, and features a dark grey velour leather strap. It is available in 33mm and 38mm sizes and is made in Glashütte, Germany. The watchmaker was founded just after reunification.

Unique Jewelry Ltd. Tel: 020 7405 5523 sales@uniquejewelry.co.uk

w w w. myimenso.co m

Carmen Electra

| International News

Burmese rubies go under hammer xtraordinary Burmese rubies, Colombian emeralds and large diamonds were among the star lots of a Bonhams New York sale this month. Also under the hammer on 7th October was a large selection of signed Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery such as ‘Alhambra’ chains and an unusual group of chrysoprase pieces. Among the Van Cleef & Arpels pieces was a ruby and diamond bracelet (est. US$100,000200,000) a graduated band of oval-cut ruby cluster links enhanced by round brilliant-cut diamond borders. It was accompanied by a diamond extender that transforms the bracelet into a choker. The Burmese rubies are a spectacular and lively shade of red. Another lot, a ruby and diamond ring (est. $30,000-60,000) was designed to complement the bracelet. Another top lot was a diamond solitaire ring, signed Tiffany & Co (est. $225,000-325,000). The piece is set with a large cornered square step-cut diamond weighing 7.38 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders. A natural triple-strand pearl necklace was another noteworthy offering, estimated at $60,000-80,000 (sale results not available at time of going to press).

JeanRichard partners with street artist he Swiss watch manufacturer JeanRichard has collaborated with the French contemporary street artist Gully on three limited edition series of 25 watches. Launched last month at the Opera Gallery in Paris, the Graphiscope Collection shared the limelight with the artist’s new exhibition ‘Philosophy of Art’. Inspired by Gully’s work, the three series of signed Graphiscope watches have distinctive dials and bracelets splashed and sprayed with paint – a striking look with a ‘dripping’ effect similar to the works of Sam Francis and Pollock. These exclusive variations of JeanRichard’s Terrascope watch model have already become collector’s items. Other collections in the brand’s line are Aquascope, Aeroscope and 1681 (the date of the company’s founding).

Cartier jewellery for sale wo pieces of tiger jewellery by Cartier, formerly from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor and given to Sarah Brightman by her then husband Andrew Lloyd Webber, are highlights of the upcoming Magnificent Jewels auction at Christie’s in Geneva on 11th November. The pieces, comprising an onyx and diamond clip brooch and bracelet, with emerald eyes, were made in the 1950s and are to be sold as one lot with a combined estimate of US$1,800,000-2,500,000. In the sale of the Duchess of Windsor’s collection in 1987 (the most valuable collection of jewels ever auctioned at the time), a total of seven Great Cats pieces by Cartier were offered, including the two tiger pieces now presented for sale. It was at this auction that Lloyd Webber bought them for Brightman, to celebrate the huge London and Broadway success of ‘The Phantom of the Opera’. Brightman intends to offer a portion of the proceeds from the sale to The Andrew Lloyd Webber Foundation, which supports the arts, culture and heritage for the public benefit.

14 The Jeweller October 2014

S N I P P E T S Rio Tinto celebrates China’s master jeweller Diamonds from Rio Tinto’s Argyle mine in Western Australia will be showcased across China from this month, headlined by a white and champagne diamond encrusted tiara. The piece was been crafted as a tribute to the partnership between Rio Tinto and pre-eminent jeweller, Chow Tai Fook, on the occasion of the jeweller’s 85th anniversary. Inspired by the natural wonders of Australia, the one-of-a-kind tiara will be displayed in key cities in China. Chow Tai Fook retails Argyle diamonds from the majority of its 2,000 stores in Greater China. New VP for Buccellati Thierry Andretta, previously the CEO of Italian fine jewellery brand Buccellati, is to assume the position of vice president. He will continue to support the group in its international development and at the same time expand his partnership with Italian private equity fund Clessidra, supporting its investments related to the fashion and luxury industries. September Bijorhca success The return to a September schedule has proved to be a good move for Bijorhca Paris, the fine and fashion jewellery and watches show. Visitor numbers were up 18 per cent over July 2014 and more than 540 brands showcased collections, compared to 450 the previous year. Following great interest in the introduction of a watch section, this category will be expanded further for 2015. The next Bijorhca will be 23rd – 26th January 2015. Report shows record global diamond demand Global demand for diamond jewellery reached a record high of US$79 billion in 2013 according to the inaugural Diamond Insight Report, published last month by The De Beers Group of Companies. Demand is expected to continue to grow over the long-term, driven by the ongoing economic recovery in the US and the growth of the middle classes in developing markets such as China and India.

Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (No. 306522)

| N.A.G. News

Association enjoys great success at IJL nternational Jewellery London, held at Olympia Grand last month, was a very positive show for the Association. While on our stand we saw an encouraging mix of existing members and new members coming on board. In fact, overall it was the best IJL show for membership that the Association has ever enjoyed. Discussions with visitors ranged from ‘reasons to join up’ to ‘new member benefits’ – which included the ‘Ensure’ insurance replacement scheme. Our stand was manned by many from the Luke Street team as well as members of the Board, who were all available to assist members and non-members with queries

and advice. It is a tactic we have used in the past and continued with this year, to the benefit of all involved. The best part about having this experience on the stand is that there is always someone who knows the answer to any given question. Education is always at the forefront of the Association’s attendance at an industry exhibition, and this year our stand at IJL offered prospective students and past graduates the chance to speak to the education team about what course

they might want to tackle next. This opportunity proved to be a success, with many new course enrolments and a healthy number of students moving on to the next level of their learning. This year, we also sponsored the Advice Clinics for IJL. These varied from marketing and strategic business planning, to the new workplace pension arrangements and were declared, by the event organisers, to be a valuable part of the exhibition. The topics covered assisted the industry in all aspects of their daily jobs and helped to implant

ideas of how to do that little bit better in people’s minds. Feedback from attendees of the Clinics was positive, and we are now hearing from some of those industry professionals on what plans for action they took away from the sessions. Also at IJL the Association – together with the British Jewellers’ Association – held a press conference on the unification of the two organisations, and announced to the industry the slogan “together we are stronger”. The aim is for fuller plans to be revealed by the end of this year and for the unification of the two associations to be completed around the middle of 2015.

Insurance replacement scheme update ust a few weeks after launching it, we have received the first few claims in relation to our new insurance replacement scheme and we can announce: “so far so good”. Given that this is a new scheme to all of us, we are pleased with how the processes are working and are already looking at an automated verification system for the future. If you have any views, ideas or points

16 The Jeweller October 2014

that you wish to raise on the subject of the new scheme, please direct them to membership@jewellers-online.org To reiterate the basic points about the scheme: a customer may come into your store with an Association mandate and Red Insurance replacement card. All the information on the process for the retailer is on the card. Please, follow the instructions

and the process will be straightforward. However, if you need more information or clarifications, we are here to assist you and happy to help. We also ask you to remember that this is additional business that you may not of had and while there is a commission involved, the upselling and future benefits of this customer’s business should outweigh any commission that is payable. At the time of going to press, total claims are in the region of £20,000.

N.A.G. News |

Jewellery Skills Academy project launches he N.A.G. is very excited to be involved in the development of a National Skills Academy (NSA) for Jewellery. The NSA network was established by the Government to address the need for a world-class workforce with better skills than ever before; employer-led centres of excellence, delivering the skills required by each sector of the economy. The aim of the Skills Academy in our industry is to support the jewellery sector to meet its economic potential through relevant skills training. The future role of the Jewellery Skills Academy will be to carry out the following: • the engagement of jewellery industry employers in programmes to enhance jewellery education in the UK • the development of an employer-led network to inform and define industrial training standards for jewellery, silversmithing and allied crafts in the UK • fund raising and pursuing opportunities for investment from Government and European funds to support education and training in the sector • potential development of a membership structure that would see financial contributions from employers and partner institutions from across higher, further and private education institutions • delivery of a programme of activity to enhance young people’s engagement with the jewellery industry with a view to increasing their opportunities for employment, working with the Jewellery Skills Academy network, members and partners across the UK jewellery industry The first phase of the project will carry out a feasibility study and develop a business plan for the academy. This will involve engaging employers from across all aspects of the jewellery industry and jewellery education and training providers from across the UK. We will also look at successful models of skills academies that have worked in other sectors. This will be the initial stage, which will be completed by spring 2015. We are actively seeking employers who would like to get involved in this new development project. If you are interested or would like further information, please contact Kate Madelin on 020 7749 1702.

Final opportunity to book a place for the Security Conference at the BRE Watford n incentive should not really be necessary, but given the number of attacks on jewellery and watch businesses over the past few months, Association members would be wise to attend our Security Conference on the 21st of this month. The need to review in-store systems, devices and procedures has been highlighted most recently by attacks in Glasgow’s Argyll Arcade and Rolex’s Knightsbridge store – both instances being saved from being more serious thanks to fogging systems. Meanwhile, it was a Warrior Doors security door system that foiled an armed robbery attempt in Birmingham this summer. Many elements contribute to sound security for a business however, and the conference, which is being held at the Building Research Establishment in Watford, will cover everything from toughened glass, watermarking products and personal safety alarms, to the SaferGems initiative, insurance advice and online fraud. Underscoring the various modi operandi of perpetrators, crime prevention officers from the Metropolitan Police will be speaking about crime trends and tactics and during the afternoon demonstrations will add dramatic evidence of how security systems can make a difference. Can you afford not to be there? For information on how to attend contact Hannah Harvey on 020 7613 4445 or events@jewellers-online.org

New member applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications should call Catherine Mone on 020 7613 4445 or email her at: catherine@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Full Member Applications The Classic Watch Company Ltd, Brighton ASR Gems, London J & R Jewellery Ltd, Bournemouth Alicia Mai Ltd, Dewsbury Penman Clockcare UK Ltd, Spalding E.H Warford, Bexhill-on-Sea Micallef Jewellers Ltd, Tonbridge Kreios Metals Ltd, London Pearl-Lang Ltd, London Lanes Fine Jewellery Ltd, Leicester J.A. Wren Ltd, Hertfordshire Flaxman Fine Jewellery, Berkshire

Corporate Business Applications Continental Jewellery UK Ltd, Birmingham Total Security Installations Ltd, Essex Act Smart Ltd, Hove Display Lighting Ltd, Cheshire

Corporate Personal Applications Louisa Rogers-Coles, Curridge (Associate) Paulette Deryn Newman, Salisbury (Associate)

Our new accountant he teams at The Jeweller and the N.A.G. welcome Vicki Clarke-McDermott to the Association which she joins as finance administrator (replacing Henrik Dinesen, who has left to study for an MA and follow a career in the environmental sector). Prior to taking the post at the Association Vicki worked as an internal auditor for a brake manufacturing company. “Having not worked in the jewellery world before I am really looking forward to learning about the industry over the coming months,” she says.

Centenary Trust hanks to Frank Wood, organiser of the N.A.G. Golf Challenge Trophy which raised £285 for our charity, and to Sandra Page who organised the Loughborough Conference which raised £558 last month. The Trustees are very appreciative of everyone’s support of our charity. The Trustees will meet later this month and will be glad to receive suitable applications for them to consider for funding for N.A.G. courses. For more details email: amanda@jewellers-online.org

The Voice of the Industry 17

| N.A.G. News

Member of the Month Following its recent acquisition of Burrells of Tunbridge Wells, SWAG goes from strength to strength. We spoke to managing director Ed Ferris to learn more about the business. Tell us the history of SWAG. My dad, Bill Ferris, started the business in 1974 in Kingston. He was a pilot for BA at the time but really wanted to work for himself. He started out selling costume jewellery and teddy bears and gradually progressed through silver and semi-precious jewellery to the high-end diamond pieces we stock now.

Were you one of the first to take on a Pandora shop? We weren’t the first franchisee but yes, we were among the early adopters. We’d seen the power of the brand in our SWAG shops so we knew its potential. The concept stores go from strength to strength; it’s a really successful brand and continues to grow.

How quickly did it start to grow? SWAG grew steadily from its beginning in Kingston. We expanded to open in Staines after a difficult time in the late ‘80s recession, which saw our Richmond shop close. Croydon opened in 1994 and put us on the map as a serious jeweller, and our Bromley, Bluewater and Watford branches sprang up in the following years. In the early days, Bill used to buy beads from the market and price them up at the kitchen table! He then progressed to visiting small local craftsmen and buying quirky silver items. Diamonds came later. Nowadays, we visit the big trade shows and look out for interesting brands that sit well with our own collections. We’ve always carried a small select number of watches, but we’ve recently started to offer refurbished Rolex and other high-end watch brands and these are doing really well.

What lead you to launch Diamonfire and then becoming a distributor? I found Diamonfire at the jewellery show in Basle and was struck by the great look of the brand. I couldn’t believe it didn’t yet have UK representation and being a retailer, I was uniquely placed to sound out my other retail jeweller friends to get their reactions to it. When the response was overwhelmingly positive, it was an easy decision to make. Being involved in the wholesale side of things has given me a great perspective on what makes a brand attractive to retailers. Diamonfire is the answer to many customers’ problems – a superb quality feel and look, without the hefty price tag. It sits beautifully beside our fine jewellery because of its excellent finish. Our staff are proud to show Diamonfire to our customers and sales reflect this.

Who are SWAG’s key players ? Well, Bill is supposed to be retired but in reality he’s still at the forefront of every major step we make! I run the company but my brother Tom is in charge of the Pandora side of things – a huge area for us.

Who are your core customers? I’d say they are couples moving through the milestones of their lives. We are frequently in the privileged position of seeing people through from engagement and wedding rings and bridal jewellery, to eternity rings, birth-ofEd Ferris (second left) with staff at the Kingston store

18 The Jeweller October 2014

a-baby gifts, and wedding anniversaries. It’s wonderful for us as a family jeweller to have that connection with our customers. Our clientele varies from store to store, but every SWAG shop has an eclectic mix of people through the door each day – and that’s one of the best things about them. Why did you decide to buy Burrells? Will it become a SWAG store? SWAG buying Burrells of Tunbridge Wells is really a merging of two established family jewellery businesses. Back in 1996, we took over another Burrells store which became SWAG Bromley. This time, the shop will keep the name Burrells, and we anticipate that the current staff will remain working in the shop they’ve invested so much in over the years. There will certainly be some changes as we embrace the new shop and begin to apply the SWAG touch. It’s been over ten years since we added another fine jewellery shop to our portfolio (Watford opened as our sixth SWAG shop in 2003) and we’re delighted to be taking on a new challenge. A family business in these days of huge brands and chainstores is a precious thing, worthy of preservation. Have you plans for more SWAG stores in the future? I’d love to expand, so if the right opportunity arises I’ll to be ready for it! In what way is NAG membership beneficial to your business? Our sales staff are some of the most knowledgeable in the business and at any given time, most are working towards a JET qualification or studying another course. It is important both for the benefit of our customers and for the ongoing professional development of our employees. How important are social media and an online presence to SWAG? Social media are just part of how we live now – the virtual equivalent of strolling along your local high street – so we need to have a presence there, and it’s a nice way to communicate with our customers, as well as raising awareness of our stores. Our SWAG website has many purposes – communicating with customers; showcasing new stock, providing a convenient way to buy and hinting at the treasures within our branches!

The Executive Development Forum – actively delivering value to its members since 2005 The Executive Development Forum (EDF) provides a unique opportunity for independent jewellery retail owners and directors to meet with like minded professionals in a confidential forum that fosters supportive and trusting relationships. This enables them to benchmark their business with other jewellery businesses, develop their strategic thinking, invest in their own professional development and, ultimately, grow their business.

“

We have a manufacturing workshop and have been using it just for our own customers and a small amount of trade work. After joining the EDF we have taken on extra manufacturing for two EDF members, which has increased our overall turnover, without it our turnover would have shown a slight decrease. EDF member

”

The EDF facilitates the sharing of members’ experience, knowledge and expertise for the benefit of those running retail jewellery businesses and provides its members with access to: •

a members’ question and answer service on subjects as diverse as products, suppliers, policies and promotions

•

a news flash service, where relevant articles are emailed to their inbox

•

monthly performance benchmarking against other member retail jewellery businesses

•

educational store visits which benefit members by seeing and hearing first hand what other owners are doing in their stores

•

regional member groups which meet three times a year – working to a formal agenda that helps to stimulate, challenge and motivate

•

The Annual Oxford Congress gives all the regional groups an opportunity to engage with each other, and to hear from invited experts who contribute their unique perspective from their specialist fields

Annual Business Plans In a recent survey of retail jewellers, it was found that only 17 per cent wrote an annual plan for their business – that is a plan that goes beyond the financials for the accountant – which is quite surprising when you consider that the vast majority of companies from SMEs to multinationals not only write an annual plan but use it to direct, manage and control their businesses. Traditionally, an annual plan covers more than the ‘numbers’; it involves detailing your chosen strategy and goals for your business, along with specific actions to give you the best possible chance of achieving what you set out to do in the coming year. It is a proven, proactive management tool used in businesses large and small, in every sector in the commercial world, that allows you and your team to grow your business (profitably) and focus on the critical priorities; yet it’s surprising so few businesses in our sector actually write one. Maybe it’s because you’re too busy, or it’s something that’s never been required in your business, or that you just don’t know where to start. The annual business plan in the majority of businesses contains some or all of the following: • a definition of what makes your business so special • how it performs in the sector in which you operate • a simple list of your strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats • the understanding of where you make and where you lose money • specific sales and marketing strategies • a review of your people, products, competitors, and suppliers • the critical priorities for the management and staff • indicators on which to judge success or lack of success • and of course the financials! However, a word to the wise – if you are never going to review it, don’t bother writing it!

For more information visit the N.A.G. website and click the EDF button, or call Amanda White, information and membership services officer, on 020 7613 4445, email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org or speak to the EDF facilitator Michael Donaldson on 07817 305 122

| N.A.G. News: IRV Review

N.A.G. Institute of Registered Valuers R

Loughborough – more than the world of valuing Another successful IRV ‘reunion’ has been and gone. As the dust settles on the latest Loughborough Conference, we offer some of the highlights of the event and the first of a two-part report on selected talks and workshops. his year’s Loughborough Conference was the Institute’s 26th and it’s highly gratifying that the weekend continues to be a ‘must’ in so many diaries. The splendid turnout of 192 people (almost a record) – included 41 firsttimers and a staggering 32 guest speakers. We are extremely grateful to our sponsors: AnchorCert, Fellows, the Gem-A and TH March for their generous support and we’re delighted that exhibitors Pursuit and Quantum Leap joined the sponsors in offering their wares to the delegates. Thanks also go to H S Walsh who joined delegate Ken Massow on Sunday evening to support his practical explanation of how to take the back off a watch. It’s clearly a task that stumps a few people, as this demonstration proved to be pretty popular, even at such a late hour.

IRV’s major matters While workshops and main presentations are the Conference’s raison d’etre, the weekend also provides the perfect opportunity to recognise the achievements of IRVs, MIRVs, FIRVs and students. Saturday evening saw 14 of the 32 CAT candidates who passed the October 2013 or May 2014 exams applauded for their hard work. Jaspreet Chawla, Delyth Du Plooy, Michelle Knust, Janina Layton, Lee-ona Long, Rob Norton, Emma Reeves, Nicola Sawyer, Graham Tom, Jackie van Heesewijk and Heidi Woodley all stepped forward to receive their certificates. Next to be acknowledged were three IRVs who have been elected FIRVs since the last Conference: Gordon Bramwell, David Byrne

20 The Jeweller October 2014

and Robert White. The Institute received nine nominations for this year’s prestigious David Wilkins Award. The very popular choice was Peter Hering, a director of Cellini in Cambridge and an IRV Committee member. Nominated for (among many other attributes) his “thirst for knowledge on all subjects” and for “reaching the pinnacle of his chosen career”, he was presented with his award by David Wilkins’ widow Margaret. The other nominees were: Rosamond Clayton, Kehan Li, Charles Perry, Pravin Pattni, Graham Price, Jackie Sanders, Barry Sullivan and Ewen Taylor. As any Conference delegate will tell you, you hit the ground running at Loughborough! No sooner have you arrived, collected your name badge and wolfed down a hearty lunch than it’s time for the first business session in the lecture theatre. For those who have never attended, one our first-timers offers a newbie’s perspective of Loughborough, while an old hand (if he’ll forgive the phrase) reports on one of the myriad workshops. More workshop reviews follow in next month’s issue.

View from a ‘green badge’ The Loughborough Conference proved inviting and accessible even to a first timer, like me, with little or no knowledge of valuation. Proceedings got off to a good start with Stephen Whittaker’s amusing and articulate Would You Adam And Eve It!, an entertaining talk with a hard factual edge, backed up by a deep understanding of the industry. Kym Hughes came all the way from Australia to

speak about the Argyle mine, where 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds are produced. Having risen 62 per cent in four years, prices seem set to rise further as mining tails off there. The gradual exhaustion of mined diamonds was also pertinent to a very interesting workshop given by James Riley, CEO of Gem-A. In Lies, Damned Lies and Synthetics he took his audience from the earliest concept of synthetic diamond manufacture in 1797, through to current HPHT and CVD methods employed by Gemesis and the proliferation of Chinese and Russian variants – a theme not lost on his audience as some synthetic diamonds are very hard to spot. Also from Gem-A were Paveet Amrit and Claire Mitchell, whose workshop Fifty Shades of Colour was literally ‘hands on’. As the

only non-FGAs present my partner and I didn’t score highly… but we came away better informed thanks to the patience and enthusiasm of Claire and Paveet. Though the speakers were all hugely qualified, an air of modesty prevailed. Joanne Whalley, the V&A’s senior metals conservator, is a case in point. Her talk Metal Conservation: What’s it Worth? was wide ranging, revealing and at times amusing, yet one was continually aware that she was barely scratching the surface of her knowledge. The History of Whitby Jet, a workshop given by Rebecca Tucker, was full of interesting material and included a demonstration of her cutting the material. Chris Sellors, owner of C W Sellors and W Hamond of Whitby, was on hand to answer questions throughout.

N.A.G. News: IRV Review | An almost ubiquitous David Callaghan gave very engaging talks: In the Beginning described the seminal work of Basil W Anderson BSc in identifying real pearls or spotting cultured ones. In Caught in the Light he made clear not only his love of precision in English language usage (reflection vs. refraction) but illuminated each subject as he ranged widely from the works of Falize and Lalique by way of the French enameller Fernand Thesmar and the great seal engraver Nathanial Marchant. Adrien von Ferscht’s lecture The History of Chinese Export Silver 1985-1940 was an interesting, unsentimental account of the way up to 50,000 Chinese craftsmen were engaged in making their versions of Georgian silver for export, great quantities of which arrived here as ballast in tea or opium shipments. Time passed quickly and my only regret is that I missed out on some of the other workshops; such friendly wisdom is hard to put a price on. Christopher Hamilton, silversmith

Valuing watches – a problem with time The pitfalls arising in the appraisal of 20th century and up-to-date wrist (and pocket) watches were well highlighted by the team of Barry Sullivan and Andree Richardson, and was backed up by an excellent pamphlet. This contained layouts for watch descriptions, examples of riders that may be added to, or incorporated into, one’s ‘Notes to the Schedule’, a suggested letter of transmittal and a glossary of useful terms. Every mechanical object such as a watch becomes out of date thanks to advancing

Peter Hering is presented with the David Wilkins Award by Margaret Wilkins

Students who received their CAT certificates

technology. Changes in fashion also have an effect. Using five case studies of watches, each illustrated in the pamphlet, Barry and Andree took us step-by-step through the complications that arose and the processes used to arrive at justifiable values for insurance purposes. The same processes applied no less to obtaining probate and Open Market Values. The most persistently occurring problem with watches for Registered Valuers is the updating of watch ranges by manufacturers and the ‘dropping’ of older models from sales lines and catalogues. What is an obsolete model? There is no definition because if a three-year-old watch model is not selling, it will probably be withdrawn leaving a void in the replacement market. Any client, having spent multiples of hundreds or thousands of pounds on a watch, can hardly be expected to accept the word ‘obsolete’ applied to a three-year-old watch. Andree had had this particular problem with replacing a Patek Philippe model now removed from its catalogue. Each step of the replacement process was described and, more importantly, recorded in the research and working notes. This problem needed liaison work to establish an agreement as to what was acceptable to all parties – the insurance company, Patek Philippe and the client. The same process was applied to every watch including an older, gold Rolex Oyster wrist-watch on a leather strap. The client had an idea of an extremely inflated value. The research notes outlining telephone calls to Canada and various auction houses were all retained for later justification should the need arise. A much lower, more realistic value obtained through the second-hand market was the result and was accepted once

explained. This was necessary to avoid the possible accusation of ‘betterment’ – a common practice which Barry frequently comes across in his work, when defending insurance companies. Much older watches are claimed for at ‘new for old’ replacement figures despite their age and poor condition. In fairness, some older watches exist that have been kept in pristine condition, with boxes and relevant paperwork. Recording the condition of these ‘extras’ may justify going outside the norm to some extent, but it is important to record each step of the process. All in all, an excellent workshop which clarified the most important pitfalls. Ewen Taylor FIRV FGA DGA

Loughborough 2015 Plans are already in place for next year’s Conference and we hope to return to Loughborough so that we can celebrate our 25th anniversary at the venue. At time of writing the dates have not been fixed but, as they say, watch this space. The IRV Conference is very special; more than simply the world of valuing – it is a chance for like-minded people to get together to share knowledge and experience. And for the many of delegates who have the stamina to stay up until the wee small hours there’s always the possibility of added entertainment. This year it came in the form of a mystery naked gent (not thought to be one of our delegates) who shut himself out of his room (possibly deliberately?) sans pants! We have the video to prove it. Which just goes to show that you really can’t afford to miss Loughborough! Further reports on workshops will follow in next month’s issue.

The Voice of the Industry 21

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N.A.G. News: Education & Training |

Bransom Award winner July 2014

he latest winner of the coveted Bransom Award – Andrew McCarthy, who works at H Samuel – is a relative newcomer to the industry. “I entered the jewellery profession just under three years ago to work for the Signet Group,” he told us. “I wanted a change from the role that I was employed in at the time and a position at H Samuel was an exciting prospect as it was recommended to me by my fiancé, who also works for the company. Working at H Samuel is a rewarding role because I get to meet people from all walks of life every day; no two days are the same. If I go home at the end of a shift knowing that I have made a customer happy, this makes me happy too.” So how did he feel when he won? “When I received the telephone call from the N.A.G. to tell me that I had won the Bransom Award, I was working at the time. I have to say I was a little dumbstruck and it didn’t really sink in until later on. I put a lot of time and effort in to my studies on the JET1 course, however I would never have thought that I would win an award for it!

I’m really glad that the hard work paid off. In today’s fast-paced world, it is nice to be recognised and rewarded by others for your achievements.” What did he enjoy most about his course? “The JET1 course was a great way for me to enhance my skills and it has helped to boost my confidence on the sales floor. I can now serve my customers knowing that I have a nationally-recognised qualification, which will reassure them that I can offer customer service that they can trust. I particularly enjoyed completing the fifth assignment, as this presented the opportunity to research gemstones in much more detail, which I found fascinating.”

In common with all the high-achieving students that we speak to, Andrew is certain that completing the course will help him to progress his career. “I am currently undertaking training for the supervisor role and the JET1 qualification will help greatly should a position become vacant. As well as proving competency, I believe the qualification reflects a sense of dedication and commitment to the field. My advice to anyone thinking of taking the JET1 course would be to go for it. I have learnt a lot about the jewellery industry and I was able to do this at my own pace. Ultimately, it has made me a better salesperson and it will do the same for you.” His moderator had this to say about his work: “Andrew has researched the diamond grading systems very carefully, and includes his findings in the assignment answer. Full use of the AGS, CIBJO and GIA information has been included for the reader – making it a comprehensive account of diamond grading. Excellent personal verbal skills were demonstrated in the communication to the client of the benefits of diamond grading. The final part of the assignment covering the repair or restoration of the Victorian diamond ring is perfect. Andrew shows ‘customer care’ skills that are highly developed. It is a pleasure to receive and mark this assignment.” Michelle McCormick, Andrew’s tutor, also heaped praise upon him: “Andrew has produced five outstanding pieces of course work. All of his assignments have been submitted ahead of timetable and completed to an exceptionally high standard. He has demonstrated his ability of delivering first class customer service in the selling assignments and has also researched other subjects well in order to produce accurate and detailed answers. It has been a pleasure to read and mark his work and I wish him well with his career in the jewellery trade.” All of us in the education department also wish Andrew all the best with his promising future career.

The Bransom Award In July 2010 the N.A.G. launched an award with the aim of recognising the very best JET1 projects. Course tutors put forward nominations before the winner is chosen by our chief moderator. The individual who is awarded the highest assignment mark is rewarded with a trip to the historic and prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall in London for the presentation of their certificate at our annual award ceremony. The award, which is sponsored by Bransom Retail Systems, is made on a monthly basis.

The Voice of the Industry 23

| N.A.G. News: Education & Training

A GemBasics testimonial year ago, we teamed up with the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) to offer students the chance to learn the basics of gemmology with Gem-A’s entry level gemmology course, GemBasics. Interest in the course has been considerable. For students who have completed our Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (formerly JET2) GemBasics offers the opportunity to further develop their interest in gemstones. As it has been just over a year since the launch, we thought we would talk to a student who has completed GemBasics and ask them what they really thought of the course and whether it provided the career progression that we hoped it would. We caught up with student Kellie Ellis of Beaverbrooks who recently completed the GemBasics course and here offers us her opinion…

also a great refresher, therefore I still feel it is very valid information to have, especially in that particular module. I have learnt a great deal more. For example, the Chelsea colour filter and London Dichroscope is something I have never physically used before or learnt a great deal about. Consequently those particular modules were extremely informative for me. Do you think that you will go on to study further gem courses? I would love to continue learning about gemstones. I feel there is always something new to discover and luckily I work for a great company who have given me the opportunity to do so. In the future I hope to do a diamond course and continue learning as much as I can. This will benefit both myself and my customers. Why did you decide to enrol on the GemBasics course? After finishing the JET2 course I wanted to continue learning about jewellery as I knew there would be even more that I could learn. My manager at the time had done a gem course after finishing her JET many years prior. After speaking to Beaverbrooks they suggested this particular course. I was extremely excited to try something very new and focus particularly on gemstones. How did you find the online experience? Studying online has been a very convenient way of doing it, especially with the small video tutorials. I still like having the course book as, when I am travelling to work without internet connection, I am able to continue my study.

24 The Jeweller October 2014

How does the GemBasics course compare with JET2? At the beginning of the course I did have to email to clarify that there was no deadline for each module, as that is something both JET courses did have. Therefore I was pleasantly surprised when I discovered that it can be done in your own time and schedule. I have found that each module has been shorter than I expected. It is however, full of information. I feel that more challenging quiz sections at the end could be even more beneficial, as it would demonstrate that the module has been understood. Did you find that the course content overlapped with JET2? There is only a small amount of repetition – such as mining of the diamonds – and it is

We are delighted that Kellie gained so much from the course and we wish her all the best with her future career. GemBasics costs £450 (plus postage and packing) and includes sealed course notes, a set of online instructional videos, a loose-leaf binder, a set of 15 sample gems for examination and a gem kit. You can find out more about GemBasics and download the application form from the N.A.G.’s education website at: www.nageducation.org Alternatively you can call Kate Madelin on 020 7749 1702. For further information about the Gemmological Association of Great Britain and its full range of gem and diamond courses, please visit the Gem-A website at: www.gem-a.com

UPERB V ALUE A DIAMOND SU SUPERB VALUE VA DIAMONDS U E LUE D O DS UP T TO 4.00CTS 4.00C 00C CTS 1 CA CARAT ARA AT SI SINGLE NGLE S STONE TONE R RING ING as pr omoted promoted & best selling line in 2013 & 2014

CERTIFICATED C ERTIFIC E AT DIAMONDS IA MONDS CE A T TED DI ATED IAMOND Astonishing value at well below curr current ent market prices.

‘D’ ‘D D’ COLOUR UR SI DI DIAMONDS IAMOND S D COLOU DS att exceptional ti l prices. i S Supplied li d as earrings, i pendants, d t 3 stones or single stones, loose or mounted.

H.W. Tankel (Scotland) Ltd, 33A Gordon Street, Glasgow G1 3PF Tel: T e 0141 226 2200 • Fax: 0141 221 3040 • Email: enquiries@tankel.co.uk uk www.tankel.co.uk www .tankel.co.uk

| Business Support: Association Benefits

Ensure a new income stream with FundingSecure At the N.A.G. we’re always looking for ways to help our members to provide an additional service to their customers and benefit from new income streams by driving additional footfall into their store. FundingSecure is one such scheme. he new partnership we have managed to secure with the peer-to-peer lending company FundingSecure enables you to offer your customers loans significantly cheaper, by on average 20-30 per cent, than traditional high street pawnbrokers. Since its launch last year, FundingSecure has issued loans exceeding £1.2m, ranging in value from £500 to in excess of £100,000. Assets used as security include jewellery, watches, art, antiques and luxury automobiles.

•

What’s on offer to our members? FundingSecure is offering Association members the opportunity to participate in this rapidly-growing business by acting as agents, earning an additional revenue stream through commissions without the need for upfront capital and FCA licencing.

•

How the scheme works. • A customer comes to the member to enquire about a loan • The member values the security and fixes a maximum loan amount (70 per cent of the trade value

•

• •

The enquiry is sent to FundingSecure using its own software on a tablet provided and included in the fee A signed loan agreement is emailed back to the member to be signed by the customer. The agreement is then between FundingSecure and the customer Funds are transferred by FundingSecure to the customer’s account The security is held by the member until the loan is repaid If the loan defaults, you have the option to buy the security at your own valuation

How is the service marketed? FundingSecure helps market the service through locally-relevant Google ads directing online click-through enquiries to a dedicated page on its website that is set up for the member. FundingSecure will also direct enquiries received through its generic advertisements to the signed up jeweller nearest to the borrower. As a member, you will also obviously benefit from being proactive in marketing

£££

26 The Jeweller October 2014

the service. This can be achieved through the judicious placement of posters and leaflets (again supplied by FundingSecure) in your store and window, as well as promoting the scheme through word of mouth and other channels such as social media, Facebook and your own local advertising. What kind of income can you secure? Commission is based on the loan amount and is typically between four and 10 per cent for loans of up to £5,000. Assuming just two loans a week with an average loan value of £1,300, annual earnings would be around £8,000. Commissions are paid within 30 days of the loan being taken out. How much does it cost? FundingSecure makes a major investment in every jeweller joining the scheme. To cover a proportion of these set-up costs, there is a one-off joining fee of £2,000 to cover all materials, software, hardware and training (£500 less than the standard fee, which we have negotiated for our members). By comparison, if you were to run your own pawnbroking service, you would need to gain a license from the FCA which typically costs £100 - £300 for this level of business. To meet the FundingSecure team, drop us a line at membership@jewellers-online.org The legal stuff FundingSecure is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA). Participating members become agents of FundingSecure. This arrangement is regulated through a standard agency agreement between the member and FundingSecure. FundingSecure also takes care of notifying the FCA that the member is an ‘appointed representative’. There are no regulatory fees payable by the member to the FCA.

Business Support: Association Benefits |

•

We’ve got the power! The Association has put a lot of effort into making energy prices cheaper for members. Robert Eden explains how. et’s face it, utility bills are one of the biggest overheads any business has to face and, in recent times, rising prices have made energy consumption more important in both absolute and relative terms. Not only that but energy management and sustainability schemes have also forced businesses to look more closely at the price they pay for energy as well as to consider very carefully the amount of energy they consume. In the light of all these developments, the N.A.G. has this year forged a key partnership with LSI Utility Brokers to place its wealth of expertise and buying power in the energy markets, along with its award-winning levels of customer service, at the disposal of our members. So, when you contact LSI, what exactly does the process entail and how can LSI help you to get a cheaper price? These are

just two of the questions we’ve tried to answer for you here: • The N.A.G. member first contacts LSI for a free assessment of their current utility bills. • LSI will then ask you to sign and return a Letter of Authority (LOA). Note that the LOA does not contractually tie you in to LSI at any time and is only required to allow them to source all the relevant information to offer a price comparison. • If you’re not sure when your contracts end, LSI will contact your energy suppliers direct, establish dates and report back. • If your contracts are due for renewal within the next six months, LSI will give you the option to forward purchase and help you to negotiate a bespoke contract. Arrangements will be made

A great member benefit! “The National Association of Goldsmiths chose to partner with LSI because of its extensive experience with other large associations and we feel LSI’s service will prove to be a great member benefit.” Robert Eden, membership development manager

•

to earmark a day on which you’re available to be sent live prices. In most cases, LSI will provide you with the best three prices and demonstrate potential savings in both monetary and percentage terms, comparing prices with your previous contracts or your current suppliers’ renewal rates. Because utilities are a commodity and prices constantly change, these offers will only be valid for a strictly limited period. Finally, if you’re happy with the prices quoted, you’ll be asked to sign and return a contract that LSI will then book and secure with your chosen supplier If you’re tied into a longer-term contract, arrangements will be made to contact you four or five months prior to the end of your contract (dependent on your current energy supplier and notice periods). This service helps you to plan for the future and is known as the N.A.G. Energy Alarm Call. There is no need to worry about the best time to deal with your energy supplier as LSI will continue to track the market and contact you directly at the appropriate time to carry out the price comparison service The LSI registrations team will advise you once your contract has gone live with your chosen supplier LSI will then be available throughout the contract to assist you with any queries

Contact LSI now… whatever your situation Time is money, of course, and, if you’re paying over the odds for the provision of your energy, it’s money that you can ill afford to lose. So, whatever your contractual situation with your current energy supplier, you really should contact LSI now for help in planning for the future. Call Barrie Jacobs, LSI sales manager, on 01727 877 020 / 0800 019 95 95, e-mail him at barrie@lsiutilitybroker.co.uk or visit the LSI website www.lsiutilitybroker.co.uk and fill in their enquiry forms. You’ll be relieved to hear that they’re quick and easy to complete! Oh and please don’t forget to mention that you’re an N.A.G. member. In the final analysis, though, here at the N.A.G. we’re really looking forward to watching our latest partnership saving our members some serious money… Which, come to think of it, is something we’re always devoting a lot of our energy to!

The Voice of the Industry 27

| IJL Review

Jolly good

show! After a build-up involving great deal of trumpeting, the dust has now settled on International Jewellery London. The annual trade show, happily ensconced in its swanky new home, was, by all accounts a great success. We highlight a few of the triumphs… f you discount the fact that making your way to Kensington Olympia station can be a tedious business any day of the week, and particularly tricky on a Sunday, there’s no doubt that the choice of Olympia Grand as the new venue for IJL was a good one. The beautiful Victorian structure with its decorative barrel-vaulted roof and ornate period details, provided the perfect setting for the event, receiving praise from visitors and exhibitors alike. The sense of space was matched by masses of natural light – ideal for displaying diamonds as it turned out.

It is, of course, par for the course that any show’s organiser will, post-event, say that attendance was up and business boomed. This year though, the early forecasts that indicate visitor numbers to be up by four per cent (with a 15 per cent increase in attendance from Diamond Club members) was supported during the event by a number of exhibitors who were happy with the footfall – both in terms of quantity and quality.

Carat

Among the glowing testimonials received by the show’s organiser, Reed Exhibitions, was this, from John Coupland of Saunders Shepherd: “We have had a hugely successful show, with excellent business throughout the three days and the highest calibre of retailers and buyers that I can recall for a long time coming to see us – several of whom were outstanding. The jewellery industry is spoilt for choice and to attract the top tier, a show has to be good; IJL really got it right this year. The length of the show was perfect, as is the new venue. We are thoroughly satisfied.” This was echoed by John Cooney of IBB Dublin: “It was the most successful ever UK trade show for our brand Mi Moneda. Our sales were the highest ever achieved since launch and we are excited by the new contacts made. It was a superbly run event and was attended by almost all the top UK jewellers. It was also great to see such a large Irish contingent after a few quiet years. We are looking forward to IJL 2015.” Pre-show, some may have had misgivings about being sited on the upper floor of the exhibition hall, but, as it transpired, concerns were needless. The two designer galleries on the perimeter were constantly busy and the buzz flowed through to the back of the top floor (which was blessed with the English Tea Rooms as well as a Champagne bar). “As ever, IJL was a fabulous experience. I’m so grateful that my new designs were received so warmly and it is always fun catching up with so many retailers and designers,” says Lucy Quartermaine of LucyQ who added to her stockist list and took large re-orders from existing customers. The brand unveiled its latest collection –

IJL Review | the Couture Drip – and showed pieces incorporating (for the first time) freshwater pearls and Swarovski stones, which also proved popular. As ever, the KickStart section of the show was a draw for visitors and here the cutest collection of jewellery was showcased by ex-animatronic designer Tom Blake. His Keep Me collection features colourful animals, each wearing a silver collar/ring – a bulldog with a studded ring, a penguin with a bow tie, a toucan with a pineapple charm… “IJL has been a fantastic start for the brand, picking up 10 stockists in its first show,” says Blake.

Keep Me

One upper floor exhibitor was Endless Jewelry whose CEO Jesper Nielson was enthusiastic about the event: “We had a great trade show in London and went well beyond our sales targets with the Endless UK team bringing in some 40 new customers from all over UK and Ireland,” he explains. “For the first time ever we presented our new Jennifer Lopez Collection by Endless Jewelry live and I am happy to say it was extremely well received. You are always excited when presenting something new like this, and I am really pleased about the way the market has received this one.” Meanwhile, on the floor below, the fashion jewellery brand Carat* was also doing brisk business, including the signing of five shop-in-shops. “We are really happy with what

Endless Jewelry

LucyQ

we have accomplished at the show this year. The international opportunities reinforce our global recognition and all the shop-inshop builds demonstrate our sustainable UK growth,” says Carat* UK wholesale manager Chris Moses. Many brands chose IJL as a launchpad for new collections. A hit for Domino was its capsule line of ‘Scintillating Diamonds’ – in 18ct gold with HSi diamonds, suites of dainty, mix-and-match earring and pendant designs are channel-set with accent diamonds. The selling point is a central diamond suspended on an invisible

Going some way towards making up for the fact that the show took place over three rather than four days (a situation beyond the control of the organisers) was the first ever late night shopping evening. Although there were certainly plus sides to the abridged event as Carol Sinfield, account manager at Ti Sento points out: “As the show was shorter, the days were much busier than last year with new and existing customers placing orders for our new AW2014 ‘Da Noi’ collection." "Our new venue proved to be the perfect setting for IJL's best show ever, with an increased number of senior key retailers and buyers attending, especially from Ireland and overseas. It provided a really stylish backdrop for the superb line-up of leading UK and

Tresor Paris

“The jewellery industry is spoilt for choice and to attract the top tier, a show has to be good; IJL really got it right this year. The length of the show was perfect, as is the new venue. We are thoroughly satisfied.”

John Coupland of Saunders Shepherd wire which oscillates as the wearer moves to create interest and sparkle. The brand’s Rosabella collection received much interest too, especially the on-trend rose gold option. Meanwhile Tresor Paris eschewed its expected razzmatazz of chocolate fountains and celebs, to go back to the Hasbani family’s roots and unveil the first collection of Tresor Paris diamond jewellery. Ranging from mid-price to ‘sky’s the limit’, the collection includes engagement rings, classic set diamond pieces and one-off creations featuring large diamonds and stones – such as a pendant with a 226ct topaz set in 18ct white gold.

international jewellers and designers to present their collections, many of whom have already signed up for 2015. As a barometer for the industry, the feedback was incredibly positive and upbeat, confirming that IJL now rivals its European counterparts,” says Sam Willoughby, event director.

See overleaf for some of our editor’s favourite pieces seen at IJL 2014

The Voice of the Industry 29

| IJL Review

EDITOR’S pick Belinda Morris highlights a few favourite pieces spotted at IJL.

Babette Wasserman launched her first diamond range, Oval Chandelier

Swedish brand Edblad introduced its brass collection of jewellery, prompted by the success of the design duo’s 2013 interior design range in that metal.

Malcolm Morris’ new, textural Morphology Collection, inspired by the form of organisms, was a strong seller at the show

Renowned for its cornucopia of coloured stone jewellery, JCM London introduced the more delicate (yet still dazzling) Eternity Collection with CZ stones set into intricately patterned designs.

Australian jewellery brand Najo has introduced a collection of bangles created by artisan silversmiths. The bold, contemporary pieces are made in electroformed sterling silver.

30 The Jeweller October 2014

Tansy Aspinall and Victoria van Holthe’s Tada & Toy is a new luxury fashion brand, inspired by the wilderness and supporting the work of the animal conservation charity The Aspinall Foundation. Five per cent of sales of the main collection go directly to the charity and 25 per cent of sales of the charity bracelets go to the cause.

Singapore designer Alexandra Alberta Yeo introduced her eponymous label at IJL; the collection of six lines is inspired by the beauty of coloured stones and conceived out of a nostalgia for an era of elegance and luxury.

October 2014 / Volume 23 / No. 8

Ocean Jasper Diamond lab nomenclature Advanced instrumentation, advanced learning

MARCUS MCCALLUM

FGA

PRECIOUS STONES, BEADS & PEARLS

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www.marcusmccallum.com

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014 t

Editorial

Gems&Jewellery

Oct 14 Contents Gem News

Gem-A News

Gem-A Events

8 Shows & Exhibitions

12 Instruments & Technology Around the Trade

Grading reports — love them or hate them, they are here to stay. I have noticed some interesting developments over the last few months; some of which are for the good, others perhaps less so. First there seems to be a marked shift from referring to them as certificates or ‘Certs’ to ‘Reports’. People who for years have talked about the former now have strict policies in force to only talk about the latter. This is good because they are not certifying anything and, as the small print implies, they are merely an opinion. One might argue that in some way they verify a particular stone, but even then the legal caveats are such that they would be unlikely to withstand a legal challenge. The legal eagles are probably responsible for the shift. There is a thought that laboratories who grade significantly differently from the more commercially acceptable ones could end up in litigation on the basis that their opinion is so different from the market leader that it must be valueless and misleading to the customer. It is perhaps for this reason that RapNet has recently stopped listing stones graded by two labs. RapNet themselves might fall foul of being deemed to be misleading, albeit that they are only the conduit for a sale and not responsible for describing the goods. The issue is that if you are advertising goods which you know or feel are wrongly described then you yourself are culpable. This is music to the ears of those of us promoting corporate social responsibility (CSR) and ethical trading, and the interest shown in our new education course on CSR shows there is an appetite. CSR is not a panacea though; it is doing the right and honest thing which all of us should be doing anyway. The gem trade has a long way to go to put its house in order as parts of the supply chain are so opaque and have historically always been that way. While we do not seek to dictate to our members or the trade in general, we do feel it is our role to promote best practice and knowledge. There are those who say it is impossible but these issues will only get bigger as the world continues to shrink. Eventually the miscreants will have nowhere to hide. However, rather than just criticize them it is important to demonstrate how best practices can help a business and even add to the bottom line. Individuals can choose whether or not to adhere, but in the long run our industries have shown that traceable supply chains add value to the end product. This is of course why grading reports became popular; they added value perceived or otherwise to the product. IJL showed the plethora of ‘laboratories’ operating in the UK, which is a microcosm of the rest of the world. Gem-A does not endorse any lab around the world, though there are a select few with whom we work closely on different projects and who are a clear cut above the rest. As the person unashamedly responsible for suspending the commercial operations of our lab, The Gem Testing Laboratory, I can tell you that to operate professionally is very expensive and in our case resulted in a considerable deficit annually. Anyone can set up a ‘lab’ with a microscope and basic kit and start grading; but it does not mean they are reliable. IJL felt like one was playing alphabet soup with all the different names. Granted most employ our graduates, many of whom are our members. However, our courses and the holding of the FGA and DGA are not designed to prepare someone to open a lab any more than other recognized global qualifications. Good lab work requires a high level of expertise, experience, equipment and research, not to mention firm data references. Often one or more of these is missing. This means that the end report is flawed (excuse the pun) from the outset. Insurance companies are already questioning the validity and reliability of these hitherto unheard of labs. So too should you. Price should not be the overriding factor. Accuracy and specifically an openness to evolve, improve and learn from mistakes are critical, as should be the professionalism and integrity of the lab concerned. We are currently working with insurers and labs to move forward. One key issue is a lack of agreed international standards to which everyone adheres. The leading and reliable labs do work together to maintain standards, but if you use one from the second, third or even lower divisions beware of what you might get.

James Riley Chief Executive Officer

Gem and Minerals

Cover Picture Ocean Fire necklace by Helen Serras-Herman, in private collection. Photo Michael J. Colella. See Gems and Minerals page 18. October 2014 / Volume 23 / No. 8

Published by The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) 21 Ely Place, London EC1N 6TD t: +44 (0)20 7404 3334 f: +44 (0)20 7404 8843 e: editor@gem-a.com w: www.gem-a.com Registered charity no. 1109555 Copyright 2014 ISSN 1746-8043

Any opinions expressed in Gems&Jewellery are understood to be the views of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publishers.

Editor James Riley Production Editor Georgina Brown Advisory Board Mary Burland, Harry Levy Design and Production Zest Design +44 (0)20 7864 1504

Ocean Jasper Diamond lab nomenclature Advanced instrumentation, advanced learning

Advertising For mediapack and advertising rates please contact Ian Francis at the National Association of Goldsmiths on tel: +44 (0)20 7749 1705 or email him at: ian@jewellers-online.org

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Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Gem News

Gem news Global diamond demand reaches record levels

(From left) Stephen Lussier, executive vice president of marketing, De Beers Group and CEO, Forevermark; Philippe Mellier, CEO, De Beers Group; and Bruce Cleaver, executive head, strategy and corporate affairs, De Beers Group at the Launch of The Diamond Insight Report.

Global demand for diamond jewellery reached a record high of US$79 billion in 2013 according to the inaugural Diamond Insight Report, published by The De Beers Group of Companies and launched during the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Demand is expected to continue to grow over the long-term, driven by the ongoing economic recovery in the US and the growth of the middle classes in developing markets such as China and India. The report cautions though that future demand levels cannot be taken for granted. The overall

category is facing increasingly strong and sophisticated competition from other luxury categories. The report further highlights that a forecast reduction in supply from existing sources will likely not be matched by new production coming on-stream in the years ahead and diamond supply is expected to plateau in the second half of the decade before declining from 2020 onwards. Meanwhile, as mining moves deeper into the earth and towards more remote locations, the extraction process is becoming increasingly complex and costly. Substantial investment will be required in diamond production, technology and branding, marketing and retail standards if the industry is to sustain its recent levels of success into the future, the report says.

Call for GIA to drop ‘damaging’ express service

US manager for Gem-A

Moti Ganz, chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute has asked the GIA to cancel its express service, which, he says, is a track for fast, preferential treatment of large, expensive stones, and is in danger of crippling his business and the industry at large. Writing in HaYahalom magazine (issue 215) Ganz accuses the “flagship of the gemmological laboratories” of making its non-express service clients wait 180 days for documentation. He explains that problems supposedly arose when the Indian diamantaires began sending huge quantities of quarters and sixths to GIA, all for express service. “Since the price for express service is double that of regular service… the GIA began assigning the overwhelming majority of its workforce, throughout the world, to these orders,” he writes. “To order regular, non-express service, you have to visit the company’s website at a very precise time to make an appointment to submit one stone, obtain a date for two weeks later and receive the results three months after that,” he continues. “And if you decide to send a stone that weighs less than one carat for testing in the US, via one of the GIA's service branches, you encounter stoppages every now and then, which make it impossible to progress. Can anyone explain why a job that took 14 days last year now takes 90, though the quantity manufactured in the world diamond industry hasn’t changed?” The high stock turn of the diamond trade, he adds, means that a delay of three to six months is crippling to an already highly leveraged industry. The inventory amassing in the factories and in the GIA laboratories pending the issue of documents represents a cost of over 100 million dollars a year — a burden that naturally falls on the shoulders of the manufacturers. Ganz adds: “if there should be another crisis like the global economic crisis of 2008-9, the diamond market will totally collapse because of goods locked in laboratories, valued in our estimation at some two billion dollars, compared with the 500 million dollars at the time of the 2008 crisis.” In response to Ganz’s feature, the GIA has said that it will be reducing its express service considerably, even discontinuing it in most of its branches. It is also investing in training new staff quickly. Ganz says that he holds the GIA in “great esteem” but urges its laboratory heads to “find solutions even more quickly and with greater urgency”.

Gem-A would like to extend an official welcome to Eric Fritz FGA, who joined the team team on 1 August as its manager for North America – a new role for the Association. Currently based in North Carolina, he will be moving shortly to offices in Tucson, Arizona, which will be the main point of contact. With a long-standing interest in collectible minerals, fossils and gems (with pearls a speciality) and a business liquidating estate mineral collections, Eric discovered Gem-A while looking to further his gemmological education. “Five top gemmologists in the

Page 4

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Gem News

US all – independently – recommended Gem-A courses to me,” he explains. “Prior to that I had no knowledge of the Association at all.” Two years ago Eric graduated and Gem-A followed this up by creating the US role. “I understand the difficulty of finding out about gemmological education in the US, and I am able to share with Gem-A those other people who want this help — whether they’re hobbyists or professionals,” he adds.

New sponsors for Gem-A Conference 2014

The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) and CIBJO have signed up as Sponsors for the forthcoming Gem-A Conference 2014, which will be held at the Business Design Centre, Islington, from 1–4 November. CW Sellors have also signed up as Associate Supporters of the Conference and will be bringing the largest piece of Whitby jet ever found, which attendees will have the opportunity to study. “For another year Gem-A has pulled together some of the largest international companies to sponsor our conference. It’s no wonder, with the calibre of speakers at this year’s event, that we’ve had such overwhelming support from all aspects of the trade,” said James Riley, Gem-A CEO. For more information on the Gem-A Conference see page 22.

Sri Lankan sapphires join Gemfields’ portfolio

Gemfields has entered into a joint venture with East West Gem Investments Limited

RapNet to stop listing EGL grading reports Effective 1 October 2014, diamond grading reports from all European Gemological Laboratories (EGL) will no longer be listed on the RapNet Diamond Trading Network. RapNet is concerned about the misrepresentation of diamond quality by laboratories that use GIA grading terminology while applying alternative grading standards that overstate the quality of diamonds. While some EGL grading reports are more consistent with GIA grading standards than others, there is, in RapNet’s opinion, “confusion and inconsistency among the various EGL grading reports. Rapaport’s statement adds: “RapNet recognizes that GIA and other diamond laboratory grading is based on human evaluation and is therefore subjective. We recognize that a difference of one colour and one clarity between diamond grading reports from the same or different laboratories is within a reasonable tolerance range. We reject the idea that there is no diamond grading standard and caution RapNet members not to use GIA grading terminology to describe diamonds that are below a reasonable tolerance range of the GIA standard”. “The Rapaport Group is opposed to the misrepresentation of diamond quality. The over-grading of diamonds is an unfair practice that destroys consumer confidence and the legitimacy of the diamond industry. Retailers who sell over-graded diamonds using GIA terminology and non-GIA grading standards are at great risk. When consumers try to resell their diamonds or send them to the GIA for re-grading and discover significant quality differences there will be hell to pay. The diamond trade must prioritize the protection of consumers above profits,” said Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group.

(EWGI), a Jersey-registered company, in order to progress opportunities in the Sri Lankan sapphire and gemstone sector via three Sri Lankan subsidiaries which will be 75 per cent and 25 per cent held by Gemfields and EWGI respectively. Under the terms of the agreements, Gemfields has acquired 75 per cent operating interests in 16 exploration licences (covering diverse minerals) for a consideration of US$0.4 million. The Sri Lankan joint venture seeks to deploy Gemfields’ exploration and gemstone experience with a view to replicating the successes achieved in Zambia and Photo courtesy of Gemfields

Mozambique, where Gemfields’ approach has brought considerable benefits for both the local population and the regional economy.

Petra finds 232 ct diamond Last month Petra Diamonds Limited announced the recovery of an exceptional 232.08 ct white diamond at the Cullinan mine in South Africa. The stone is a D colour Type II diamond of exceptional size and clarity, and is, says the company, “a magnificent example of the large, high quality diamonds for which the mine is known”. The stone is expected to be sold in the second quarter of its financial year. The leading independent diamond mining group has interests in six producing mines — five in South Africa and one in Tanzania. The company’s core objective is to steadily increase annual production to five million carats by 2019.

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Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Gem-A News

Alan Clark: 34 years at Gem-A James Riley bids a fond farewell to one of the Association’s longest-serving members of staff. The end of July saw the end of an era at Gem-A with the retirement of Alan Clark FGA DGA. Naturally, Gem-A hosted a party at Ely Place to celebrate Alan and his years of service to the Association, to which many of Alan’s current and former colleagues came along to make the evening especially memorable. Alan was also honoured at the IRV conference in Loughborough last month, where he was presented with his first ever mobile phone! Alan has worked for Gem-A for some 34 years, starting his employment in the Gem Testing Laboratory in 1980. As such Alan represents a bridge between the ‘phalanx of four’ of Messrs Anderson, Payne, Webster and Farn. Alan himself was part of an illustrious team in the lab, including Ken Scarratt, Eric Emms and Steve Kennedy. Nicknamed ‘the pinpoint king’ for his ability to spot even the smallest of inclusions, Alan is still probably the most highly regarded diamond grader in the UK. To give one example of his skills, an important stone came back with a new report

From left-right: Alan Clark, Eric Emms, Ken Scarratt and Steve Kennedy in 1985.

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showing it to be IF and Alan spotted a pinpoint in the pavilion with a 10× loupe, which he then confirmed by taking a picture under the microscope. Definitely a VVS1 for the Gem Testing Laboratory and of course a significant price difference! Alan started his career in his father’s jewellery business and then moved on to Ratners before joining the Lab in 1980. During his time he was involved in the issuing of GIA reports from London and he became head grader in 1995. In later years he became manager of Gem-A Instruments (formerly Gemmological Instruments Ltd. The quality and design of many staple items are due to his diligence, insight and knowledge of his subject, particularly the student kits which all Gem-A students now receive. Not one to mince his words, Alan has on many occasions weeded out inferior products and seen through the ego of many individuals trying to sell him their latest gadget. Unfailingly helpful to his customers and students, he will be sorely missed for his dry sense of humour and calming influence. Anyone who has attended his advanced diamond course will know that his encyclopedic knowledge is almost impossible to replace. On behalf of the Association I would like to thank Alan for his many years of dedicated service, and wish him and his wife Barbara every happiness in their retirement. We hope that he will find time in between tennis matches to stay in touch, and also hope to see him at our conference in November.

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Gem-A Events

Gem-A Events Gem-A Conference 2014 Saturday 1 – Sunday 2 November, Business Design Centre, Islington Gem-A will host its internationally-acclaimed annual conference on 1 and 2 November at the Business Design Centre, Islington. This year features talks from Edward Boehm GG CG, Bruce Bridges, Dr Laurent Cartier FGA, Terry Coldham FGAA, Brian Cook, Dr Thomas Hainschwang FGA, Alan Hart FGA DGA, Dr Ulrich Henn, Richard Hughes FGA (with special guest John Saul), Craig Lynch GG, Vincent Pardieu GG, Dr Menahem Sevdermish FGA and Chris Smith FGA. Monday 3 November — Gem-A Headquarters, 21 Ely Place, London, EC1N 6TD • Gemmological Applications of Raman and Photoluminescence Spectroscopy seminar Hosted by Mikko Åström FGA and Alberto Scarani GG, GemmoRaman. • Coloured Stone Grading and Pricing Workshop seminar Hosted by Richard Drucker FGA GG, President of GemWorld International Inc. • A portable EDXRF device in gemmology: toy or dream? Hosted by Dr Franz Herzog. Monday 3 November — The Goldsmiths’ Hall, 13 Foster Lane, London EC2V 6BN • Graduation Ceremony and Presentation of Awards With guest speaker Tim Matthews FGA DGA, JTV CEO. Tuesday 4 November — Natural History Museum, Cromwell Road, London, SW7 5BD • Visit to the Natural History Museum Hosted by Alan Hart FGA DGA, head of Collections and Mineralogy Collections Tuesday 4 November — Gem-A Headquarters, 21 Ely Place, London, EC1N 6TD • Global Ethical Challenges within the Industry seminar Hosted by Greg Valerio, Vivien Johnston and Dana Schorr. For the full conference programme see page 22.

Gem Central evenings

Gem Central will be held on the following evenings: 6 October, 10 November and 16 December.

Gem-A Workshops Workshop prices: Gem-A/NAG/BJA Members and Gem-A Students: £100, Non-members: £120 Understanding practical gemmology Friday 10 November 2014 Birmingham City University, Birmingham B42 2SU

This workshop focuses on the practical aspects of gemmology, covering the effective use of all the readily available instruments and testers that you are likely to need. The 10× lens, polariscope, spectroscope and refractometer are all covered in detail, and, under the guidance of expert Gem-A tutor Andrew Fellows FGA DGA CDG, you will quickly learn the basic principles and techniques needed to use them efficiently. By the end of this workshop you will be able to use the equipment correctly and have an appreciation of the value of each instrument in testing.

Understanding diamond grading Wednesday 26 November 2014 Birmingham City University, Birmingham B42 2SU This specialist workshop focuses on the key aspects of diamond grading, giving a unique insight into the 4Cs and their impact on value. Led by experienced Gem-A diamond tutor Andrew Fellows FGA DGA CDG, participants will be guided through the underlying theory before seeing the practical side of cut, colour, clarity and carat weight on both loose and mounted diamonds. This course provides the perfect foundations for those wanting to either go forward to study the full Diamond Diploma course, or to embark upon a career in the retail diamond market. Understanding diamond simulants Friday 28 November 2014 Birmingham City University, Birmingham B42 2SU This workshop is for those working, or considering working, in the diamond market. Gem-A tutor Andrew Fellows FGA DGA CDG explains the key differences between diamond and its simulants, and how to recognize them both as loose stones, and in set or mounted jewellery. Using basic observation techniques and readily available instruments, such as diamond and combination testers, participants will be taught to quickly and effectively separate diamonds from all other imitations, thus preventing costly purchasing errors, and allowing informed buying decisions to be made.

Other events and conferences Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) UK Jewellery Conference Tuesday 7 and Wednesday 8 October 2014 Hilton Birmingham Metropole, NEC, Birmingham, B40 1PP Open exclusively to CMJ retail members and approved suppliers, contact the CMJ Events team on 01788 540250 or email: events@masterjewellers.co.uk for details on how to book.

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Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Shows and Exhibitions

IJL, Olympia 2014: the start of a new tradition? Miles Hoare declares the new arrangements for this year’s show an outstanding success. When we heard the news that International Jewellery London (IJL) would be held at a different venue this year, taking place over three days rather than four, we must admit we were a little dubious. It’s not that we don’t like change, quite the contrary — this is the mantra currently reverberating through the halls of Ely Place — but tradition is another thing entirely. To break with over 59 years of IJL tradition and make the move from the beloved Earl’s Court we thought would be too much for us all to handle. However, within moments of entering the freshly fitted venue, we realized how wrong we were. Olympia has a certain twee charm not shared by Earl’s Court, and aside from perhaps the overall size of the venue, there was little to bemoan of the show’s

new abode. The structure of the new show, whilst perhaps not ideal for those stuck up in the gallery, boasted a minimalist allure, feeling more well-ordered and freshly presented than its larger, uglier sister in Earl’s Court One. Although there were mixed reviews from exhibitors about the amount of natural light granted by Olympia’s glass ceiling and trepidation from the Hong Kong pavilion, who previously raised concerns about the shorter show time (who wants to spend 30 hours travelling for 27 hours selling time?), the show’s programme reflected previous years in still managing to squeeze in a number of inspiring and informative lectures and workshops alongside the usual catwalk shows, industry parties and various product launches, albeit in a more humble atmosphere.

Crowds gather at the Gem-A stand at IJL for champagne and launch speeches by CEO James Riley, Ethics Manager Vivien Johnston and CIBJO President Gaetano Cavelieri.

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Screenshot of Gem-A’s e-learning videos for the new ‘CSR for the Jewellery Professional’ course, in association with CIBJO, WJCEF and Branded Trust.

Sunday

For Gem-A, this mix of tradition and new tidings set the ideal backdrop for the launch of new products and the revitalization of some of our traditional, flagship offerings. Sunday marked the launch of a brand new course in conjunction with Branded Trust and the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF) — the educational arm of CIBJO — focusing on issues surrounding Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) in the jewellery industry. The aptly titled ‘CSR for the Jewellery Professional’ course was unveiled with a champagne toast and speeches by CIBJO president Gaetano Cavelieri, Gem-A CEO James Riley and our new Ethics Manager, Vivien Johnston, and was followed by a live demonstration of the online platform and the first interactive video lectures. The course itself garnered a lot of trade press and consumer interest over the three days, and due to its attempts to address a number of prevalent and pressing issues in the industry, started serious discussions about how to tackle internal issues with ethics and CSR. The Sunday launch of our new CSR course coincided with the release of an update to one of our flagship courses, in the form of the revamped Diamond Diploma. Similar to previous iterations of the course, the new notes look at topics

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Shows and Exhibitions

covering the formation of diamonds through to their use in the jewellery trade, how they are valued, and the identification of natural, synthetic and treated diamonds. The structure of the diploma, the assessments and the final learning outcomes remain the same; however, the upgraded and expanded notes contain more in-depth material on all diamond-related topics, including the latest information on technology, research, testing equipment and techniques, all spread over an extended 18 chapters (as opposed to the previous 14). Students, members and former graduates of the Diamond Diploma were invited to take the first sneak peek at the notes throughout the weekend and discuss the new changes with our tutors. Responses were overwhelmingly positive, with a number of guests signing up to be the first students on the revamped course and a few former graduates putting in requests to purchase their own copies. Running alongside our Sunday launches we also invited members of the industry to join two of our leading tutors, Claire Mitchell and Andrew Fellows, for a fantastic workshop entitled ‘Spectacular Spectrums’. This hands-on workshop invited attendees to study techniques used for successful absorption spectra observation and covered the best practice associated with the use of different spectroscope models. A well-liked staple for all our trade show appearances in 2014, this workshop, which was well over-subscribed, aided students in gaining an understanding of how gemmology is taught at Gem-A.

New Diamond Diploma notes with improved photography and visual stimulus.

Front cover of the new Diamond Diploma notes.

Monday

With no seminars, product launches, or prize giving on the Monday, the Gem-A team had a chance to network fully with visitors to the stand as well as take a further look around the show. The networking aspect was greatly aided by the constant stream of friends from our recent field trip to Idar-Oberstein (see the report in the August/September issue of Gems&Jewellery), who dropped by to check out the latest products, make enquiries about further trips, workshops and courses, and peruse the range of gemmological instruments on offer. Within this window we also got the chance to turn a critical eye on the new and returning businesses at the show — taking in the gradual changes to the industry over the last year. One of the most apparent changes since the 2013 show was the number of newly-established gemmological laboratories promoting their services to members of the trade. Whilst the idea of an increased level of scientific

rigour within the industry is a positive one, concerns about the quality of these labs and their level of analysis is high on the agenda (see also James Riley’s Editorial, page 3). For anyone dealing with gems and diamonds the importance of a high-quality lab with strict standards, codes and practices is paramount to ensure that not only honesty, integrity and transparency remain, but that the value of laboratory certification is maintained. There is a sense that the analyses of some of these laboratories is severely lacking in the quality expected by businesses throughout the trade, but more importantly by insurance companies who have seen a rapid rise in certification from unknown or unverified labs. This not only impacts the individuals and businesses unlucky enough to receive a sub-standard lab report, but undermines the validity of lab reports in general, and has a destabilizing effect on the confidence of insurance companies to be able to accurately and assertively underwrite the value of a stone.

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Shows and Exhibitions

IJL, Olympia 2014 (cont.)

P J Watson receive the coveted Gem Empathy Award. Left to right: Sarah Kitley-Spencer (Marketing Manager, IJL), Vivian Watson (Managing Director, P.J. Watson), John Watson and James Riley (CEO Gem-A).

Tuesday

It was with these worrying trade practices in mind that we began to deliberate the potential winners of Gem-A’s Gem Empathy Award for 2014. The award is presented annually on the last day of the show to the IJL exhibitor displaying, in the opinion of the judges, a single piece or collection of jewellery that makes captivating use of one or more gemstones and provides accurate ethical descriptions as well as displaying creativity and imagination. The winner, selected by a panel of judges from Gem-A, was designed by John Watson of fine gems and jewellery manufacturer P.J. Watson. Family jewellers with four generations of DGA members amongst its ranks, P.J. Watson never fails to impress with its statement pieces created especially for each annual IJL show. This year’s piece, a multi-purpose peacock feather brooch/pendant (shown right), was created with a centre 23.80 ct tourmaline and 3.94 ct of G VS diamonds in an 18 ct white gold mount. It was awarded the prize for the completely original use of coloured gemstones, in a stunningly beautiful design, with all stone sources disclosed. As winner, P.J. Watson wins a free full-page advert in an upcoming issue of Gems&Jewellery as well as a free one-day

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students and members, we’re confident that our new offerings fit with the current changes within the industry, whilst still retaining Gem-A’s ties to history and tradition. Similarly with the new IJL, and in an optimistic U-turn on our feelings from 2013, we look forward to seeing how the new IJL show continues to respect the long-running tradition of the show, whilst maintaining a flexible approach to the changes in the way the industry works. Concerns still exist about the show’s international reach and how attractive it is to large markets in the Far East, but all we can do is wait and wonder… what will 2015 bring? Over the coming months Gem-A will be in attendance at a number of the industry’s largest trade shows and events. To find out more about all our upcoming trade show appearances, turn to our events calendar located on page 7.

workshop or attendance for one delegate at the Gem-A Conference 2014. Talking of original use of colour, Tuesday continued on a vivid theme as tutors Andrew Fellows and Lizzie Gleave took to the rostrum to talk on ‘Fifty Shades of Colour’. Our provocatively titled workshop looking at the range of different colours in gemstones showed attendees how, with the simple use of a light source and dichroscope, they could discover the range of colours within a gemstone that are invisible to the naked eye. Popular as always, the workshop was over-subscribed with individuals from around the trade ranging from those will little gemstone knowledge to experts looking to pick up a few extra tips and tricks.

The final curtain

Overall we have to admit that, despite our early pessimism, we were pleasantly surprised at the success of the new-feel IJL. Although there was a slight sense that as we were positioned in the gallery we were a bit isolated from the rest of the show, this didn’t stop the crowds making their way to the stand and didn’t hinder the successful launch of our brand new products. Following enlightening conversations we had with

The P.J. Watson winning piece: Multi-purpose peacock feather brooch/pendant created with a centre 23.80 ct tourmaline and 3.94 ct of diamonds in an 18 ct white gold mount.

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Instruments and Technology

Advanced instrumentation means advanced learning Charles Evans reports on a trip by Gem-A staff to the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) in Basel to learn about the latest equipment and techniques. At Gem-A we have seen some very interesting changes on the more scientific side of ‘diagnostic’ gemmology over the last 10 years, changes that have had a profound effect on the industry, but not necessarily in the most obvious of ways. We strive, as always, to stay ahead of the game and this is a considerable challenge while running as a charitable organization. The decision was made in 2008 to mothball the lab for commercial reasons and this was a big (and controversial) step. The truth of the matter was that we did not have the volume of business to permit the purchase of

Eva Bieler (far left) explaining the SEM’s magnification options in the field of view to Lizzie Gleave and Cathryn Hillcoat at the Center for Microscopy at Basel University. Photo by Charles Evans.

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certain key tools that for the most part still cost a six-figure sum and that were required to keep us a competitive force among other international labs. (How often have the CEOs politely refrained from answering that annoying question: “Why did Gem-A close the lab, I thought it was great having such a facility?” with the retort: “Yes, having it was great, however funding it was impossible. Just remind me exactly, how well did you support it when it was there?”). Times have changed. Business attitudes to due diligence in support of full disclosure are still ‘restrained’ and this ‘restraint’ still extends to investment in laboratory services. Nonetheless, Gem-A is always aware of new opportunities. As always, the consumer’s concerns will be the decider for the industry dealing with the hoary old chestnuts of treatments and synthetics. There is additional momentum now from another perspective, with heightened interest and concern about the ethical issues in the supply chain meaning that identifying (or obscuring) provenance is key. At Gem-A, we are one step ahead. The price of much of the technology that can assist in this identification has come down to a point where it is going to find far more extensive use and be available to a wider audience than was previously the case. It is with this in mind that Gem-A has invested in a Raman spectroscope, an FTIR and a soon-to-arrive EDXRF, with further instrumentation from Sarine on the horizon. Buying the equipment is all well and good, but investment in staff has to be made to ensure the new kit is put to thorough use and is thus in line with our ethos of advancing the understanding of gemstones through education. What our talented tutors learn will filter down to the benefit of all students and members. So it was that six of us spent a week in the delightful city of Basel in early August. We were guests of the SSEF, there to spend a week familiarizing ourselves with the advanced equipment and techniques used in a modern laboratory. On a personal level this was a wonderful opportunity for professional development and a dream fulfilled to visit and investigate the inner workings of our contemporaries in Basel. Our tutor for the week was none other than the esteemed Prof. Henry Hänni FGA, who obligingly led us through this course of discovery and extended the exploration to

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Instruments and Technology

A beautiful crystal of synthetic quartz/amethyst in the SSEF reference collection. Photo by Charles Evans.

some of the historic delights of the amazing Old Town too, when our heads were reeling from the information onslaught. SSEF could not be more central in Basel and currently occupies the top floors of a building just off the tramway that runs through the centre of town. On our initial tour of the facility we were struck by the priority given to controlling environmental issues. There is a real risk that factors like air temperature and humidity might contaminate results and this meant sensitive equipment was located in different rooms, doors were shut, temperature was controlled; breathing may even have been frowned upon, but we were guests after all. Our time was divided between classroom sessions and practical sessions. For classroom time we were in the supremely elegant, 700-year-old Safran Guild halls. The ornate decoration reminded us — as we discussed chromophores, anti-Stokes and interferograms — that we had been preceded in those very halls by brush makers, button makers and chandlers. We would return to the offices a short walk up the road in order to see the instruments in action and so it was we worked through different Raman units, EDXRF, FTIR, and X-ray machines. On Tuesday we had a full day devoted to Prof. Hänni’s special love: pearls. Through an incredible collection of slides, anecdotes and samples, we binged on his knowledge, scribbling copious notes. Additionally, Dr Laurent Cartier FGA gave us a lecture on his fascinating PhD dissertation from Basel University that focused on pearl farming and pearl traceability issues conducted in collaboration with Dr Joana Meyer, an expert in DNA fingerprinting techniques in a range of materials and organisms. The implications of their findings will be profound, not just in identifying provenance, but also the aging of pearls.

On Thursday we had a special treat. We walked up to Basel University, Prof. Hänni’s alma mater, and spent the morning, eyes agog, watching a scanning electron microscope (SEM) focus in with incredible accuracy and clarity on garnet inclusions in grains of sand, collected from one of Scotland’s black sand beaches. Sample preparation involved the universally simple (glue on a piece of card with the sample dribbled over it) to the very highly specialized (gold anodizing within a vacuum). The fine layer of gold was required to overcome the one of two issues that come about when a sample is subject to the brutal rigours of the SEM’s vacuum chamber. One is the fact that the sample is in a vacuum chamber itself — necessary to address the problem of scattered electrons of low energy being deflected by atmospheric particles and influencing the resultant reading. The second problem is dealing with the charge that builds up between the cathode end and the sample on the anode stage. A fine layer of gold on the sample provides grounding and is deposited onto the sample in a special ‘sputtering device’ beforehand. We were most fortunate to be able to watch every stage in the operation as a number of gemmological samples were prepared for us to see. In the SEM chamber, the basic X-ray principles applied and the reflected electrons could be captured allowing a picture to be built and displayed onscreen at up to 500,000× magnification. This incredible machine, by simply switching computer programs, would introduce an attached accessory in the form of a spectrometer that would take the information it had been using to generate these macro images and instead analyze the scatter to deliver us a precise chemical analysis of the area in focus — an area that could be as small as one nanometre. Sadly the level of complexity in this technology means that, despite all the advances

The team on the SSEF roof with Prof. Henry Hänni. From left: Claire Mitchell, Andrew Fellows, Prof. Henry Hänni (proudly displaying his Gem-A Fellowship tie!), Lizzie Gleave, Cathryn Hillcoat, Julia Griffith and Charles Evans. Photo by Laurent Cartier.

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Instruments and Technology

Advanced instrumentation means advanced learning (cont.) and treated stones entering the supply chain, as has been well documented recently. The SSEF’s tenacious determination to serve the industry has been rewarded with a number of organizations now seizing the bull by the horns and addressing the ‘salted melee’ issue with this incredible device that it has developed. This resulted in the ASDI device — I would recommend watching the video on their website (www.ssef.ch/asdi). This machine separates CVD-, HPHT-grown as well as HPHT-treated diamonds in melee. like a slow-motion pin-ball. A parcel of thousands of melee diamonds up to 3 mm in size is poured into one end and an exquisitely engineered and automated process nudges the melee into a precisely dressed line. This line of stones progresses along and every stone is then subject to aggressive spectral scrutiny that will see the fraudsters shoved unceremoniously off the diamond parade. The week came to an end all too soon and Friday afternoon saw us flying back to London supremely gratified and enriched by our intense week of study; utterly grateful to our wonderful hosts at SSEF… and somewhat galled that we hadn’t managed to buy and consume more chocolate in the time we spent in Basel. Julia Griffith doing her gargoyle impression at the magnificent old Basel Rathaus (town hall). Photo by Charles Evans.

that have permitted us access to the other advanced gemmological instruments on an improved cost-to-benefit ratio, this remains well outside the reach of Gem-A. Not only does it require a full-time and dedicated operator, but the instrument itself still starts at the price of a mansion in Yorkshire — or a broom cupboard in Mayfair. Perhaps not this year… Another day, the focus was on diamonds and we had the pleasure of listening to Jean Pierre Chalain tell us about the extensive research work that SSEF had done over the years. In a number of cases, its vigour and rigour had cost it dear as a revenue stream dried up when it learnt of, and published detail on, the latest development in the industry. Lab work would move to competitors overnight who would give certification until the SSEF research was peer-reviewed and widely accepted, and these competitors would be pressured to tighten up. With the next SSEF achievement, we stared, slack-jawed, and steamed up the outside cover of a special special instrument developed by SSEF: the Automated Diamond Spectral Inspection (ASDI) device. To give a brief backstory: manufacturers dealing in high volumes of melee have been most concerned about synthetic Prof. Henry Hänni FGA Prof. Henry Hänni is a research associate with SSEF. He was director of SSEF from 1990–2009. He received his doctorate in Mineralogy from the University of Basel in 1980 and earned the title of professor in 1996 from the same university. He received his Gemmology Diploma in 1978. He has been regularly teaching gemmology courses at Basel and Lausanne universities for three decades. Prof. Hänni has published over 150 articles on gemstones and analytical techniques in numerous journals.

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Lizzie Gleave and Cathryn Hillcoat watch Prof. Henry Hänni using very unadvanced piece of equipment to check the specific gravity of a gemstone. Never forget the fundamentals… Photo by Charles Evans.

Our special thanks go to Gem-A for giving us all the opportunity to forge a further link with SSEF; to all the people at SSEF who provided such patient demonstrations while juggling a working day and most of all to Prof. Henry Hänni, who undertook a punishing schedule of lectures that displayed clear evidence of the enormous effort that went into planning, preparing and organizing a most enjoyable and educational week for the five of us. Special thanks must also go to Dr Markus Dürrenberger who runs the Center for Microscopy at Basel University and his colleague Eva Bieler who spent so much time with us demonstrating the University’s amazing resources. For an idea of the equipment we saw, visit: https://zmb.unibas.ch/geraete/ (mix of German and English).

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Around The Trade

Gemmological laboratories Harry Levy FGA discusses the use of GIA terminology but lack of GIA standards in laboratories. Gemmological laboratories were first set up as places to identify gemstones of natural origin. Verneuil synthetic stones were on the market appearing as spinels and corundums in all colours. The spinels imitated aquamarines and peridots, amongst others, whilst the corundums masqueraded as blue and yellow sapphires, rubies, and even colour-change alexandrites. There were also flux-grown stones such as those of Kashan and Ramura. These were new products, unknown to most dealers and traders, and they needed independent experts to identify them. The next products that needed identification were cultured pearls appearing from Japan, which came into the world markets in the early twentieth century. This caused havoc in the pearl market; prices dropped as there was little differentiation between natural and cultured pearls until the two products were separated by laboratories. These early laboratories were set up in most jewellery-producing centres, but were run through other bodies. This was because there was little funding available so they needed subsidizing, and most importantly they had to be commercially independent to prevent fraudulent results. In the UK a laboratory was set up in Hatton Garden, London, and run by the London Chamber of Commerce. Research had to be done in developing the methods of detection, so the laboratories were run by people with a scientific background, and this led them to become educational institutions trying to teach traders (and anyone else that was interested) the basics and, later on, more advanced gemmological knowledge.

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Identification, research and education were their most important aspects until the grading of diamonds became necessary. Initially diamonds were not graded to determine their value but as a method of communication. Traders had developed local ‘languages’ using descriptive terms such as ‘white’, ‘yellow tints’, ‘light PK’ (pique), ‘small inclusions’ and so on. This worked in localities where traders were in daily contact with each other and could compare goods, thus allowing them to ascertain prices and so be able to trade. However, this only worked in closed communities — each locality developed its own terminology. The most common were descriptive terms, but others used localities where the diamonds were found. One such system is the Scandinavian Diamond Nomenclature (Scan.D.N), which uses terms such as ‘River’, ‘Wesselton’, ‘Crystal’, ‘Cape’ and ‘Yellow’. Once you are involved in international trading, a system that all can understand and use is needed. Around the early 1950s the GIA developed its colour-grading system, using letters to denote colour. This is achieved through a series of ‘master stones’, where each stone is perceptibly different from the previous one. The GIA decided to name the top stone (the one showing no colour) ‘D’ and then graded them down to ‘Z’. The colour of a diamond is then determined by comparing it to the master stones. If the colour falls between a G and H for example, it will be classed as G, although some systems would grade such a stone as H. There is no confusion as the master stones are so named to adjust for this apparent discrepancy.

Thus in the second system just mentioned the H master stone would be a G using the first system. These games have been played between laboratories for years to show that each is using an independent system from the others. The letter ‘D’ was selected by the GIA as the highest colour grade as this was the failure grade in American school exams. At that time the top colour was referred to as either ‘A’, ‘A++’, ‘A+++’, ‘Super A’, or similar terms by the traders in the market. D was a colour that was never used, so the GIA used this as the top grade knowing that nobody else had used this letter — this was recounted to me by Richard Liddicoat. The clarity grade was adopted by all, using the descriptive terms such as ‘flawless’, ‘very very small inclusions’ (VVS), ‘small inclusions’ (VS), ‘slight inclusions’ (SI) and so on. Exactly where and how the divisions occurred in the different systems is not exactly clear. Having established a system to grade for colour and clarity, the carat weight was always given, and the cut was also listed as a descriptive term, and so the 4Cs as a means to determine the value of a stone became available. Traders saw the introduction of these criteria as an attempt to make diamond prices transparent and at the 1982 World Federation of Diamond Bourses’ Congress in New York a resolution was passed that no Bourse member would be allowed to produce a diamond price list based on laboratory grading. Martin Rapaport did, however, and was expelled from the New York Bourse. Martin appealed and went to law, was re-admitted and the rest is history.

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Around The Trade

It should be noted that Martin’s Rapaport list is based on asking prices in New York for GIA graded stones of a good make. It should also be noted here that a Diamond Grading Report is simply a report and not a certificate. A certificate gives facts, whereas a report gives opinions. Grading diamonds has become a very big business and we now have a proliferation of laboratories. Anyone can set up a laboratory and there are no controls as to its adequacy, competency and even honesty. For many years CIBJO tried to administer such controls by having a register of approved laboratories. For legal reasons CIBJO has stopped

GIA D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

doing this and now has a listing of laboratories, but with no comments. Most laboratories are set up with their main business as diamond grading. Few of these can identify stones and are unable to give origins and treatments for coloured stones. For diamond grading, laboratories have to give their reports in a way acceptable to the trade, and thus they have adopted GIA terminology, or if they have their own system, give charts of how to compare their system to the GIA one. This is where problems have come about. To grade to GIA standards one needs master stones that are aligned to the GIA one. To simply take GIA-graded

CIBJO/IDC Exceptional white + D Exceptional white E Rare white + F Rare white G White H Slightly tinted white I Slightly tinted white J Tinted white K Tinted white L M N O P Q R S Tinted T U V W X Y Z

Scan.D.N River D River E Top Wesselton F Top Wesselton G Wesselton H Top crystal I Crystal J Top cape K Cape L Cape M Cape N Cape O Cape P Cape Q Cape R Cape S Cape T Cape U Cape V Cape W Cape X Cape Y Cape Z

stones and use these as master stones does not work. To be a master stone a diamond has to be exactly the same as the GIA equivalent master stone. A GIAgraded stone can lie anywhere between two adjacent stones and to use this can give a wrong grade. Further to this, in order to get business away from the GIA, laboratories can give a ‘soft’ grade. This means that if a stone is on a borderline they will give it the better grade. This can be abused by deliberately upgrading a stone by one colour, or one clarity, or sometimes both. Some abuse the system further by mis-grading diamonds by two grades. If challenged they claim they grade by their own master stones and grading system, so their ‘G’ is not the same as the GIA ‘G’. Those who trade regularly understand all this and base their buying on a larger discount on the Rapaport price than on an equivalent GIA graded one. It should be noted that there is not a uniform discount on all stones found on a Rapaport list. Some think that the discount is always 25% but this is not so — it can vary, and often does, and on occasion there is a premium. This often occurs with the larger, better stones. Thus we do not have a universal grading system. We seem to have one as many laboratories use the GIA system, but many do not adhere to GIA standards. Attempts have been made in the past to achieve a standard and 15 years of work was done to achieve this, but when a country vote was taken, the standard achieved was not accepted. Assuming accurate scales, all 1 ct stones will weigh 1 ct all over the world, but not all GVS1 stones will be the same; this will depend on the grader and the location of the laboratory. This is a time bomb ticking away; at some stage someone will want to know why he paid a price for a GVS1 stone in one location, only to be told when he tries to sell it that it is of a lower grade and worth less.

Corresponding terms for colour grades showing GIA, CIBJO/IDC and Scan.D.N. nomenclature. Source: CIBJO Diamond Book.

Page 17

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Gems and Minerals

Ocean Jasper Helen Serras-Herman describes a stunning material adored by lapidaries and designers alike. ®

Ocean Jasper is the trade name for a rare form of orbicular jasper that comes from Madagascar. The material is stunning and colourful, and immediately identifiable by its unique pattern with vibrant ‘eyes’ — the orbicules (or orbs) (1). Ocean Jasper occurs in many colour combinations, often interspersed with attractive natural ‘vugs’ of white or green drusy quartz crystals. The name Ocean Jasper is a registered trademark of The Gem Shop, Inc., located in Cedarburg, Wisconsin, USA (www.thegemshop.com), the company that was the original sole US distributor of rough Ocean Jasper. The mine is owned and operated by Paul Obenich of Madagascar Minerals (www.madagascarminerals.com). Although mineralogically it is correct to call the material ‘orbicular jasper’, only dealers that have not purchased the material through the Gem Shop, Inc. refer to it in this way, as they do not have the ‘official’ permission to call it Ocean Jasper. The material is also marketed under the names of Sea Jasper,

Orbicular Rhyolite, Moon Jewel Jasper, Atlantis Stone or, by the Malagasy natives, as Snake Agate. The reason the trade name Ocean Jasper was given to this unique material is because the deposits are located at the edge of the ocean and can only be seen and mined at low tide. The area is remote with a very rugged coastline. Miners load the material on ox-driven carts then transfer it on boats, which are often in danger of capsizing from the weight, while the crew waits for the next high tide to sail off. The mining area stretches for about 120 miles on the west coast of the most northern part of the island of Madagascar, near the village of Marovato in the Ambolobozo peninsula district of the Antsiranana Province. Madagascar is the only known deposit location for this material in the world. The deposit, which followed the beach into the side of the hill for about 40 metres, initially formed as a rhyolite flow, but has been completely silicified.

1: Stunningly colourful Ocean Jasper. Photo Andrew Herman.

Page 18

2: Sunflower patterns. Photo Andrew Herman.

Ocean Jasper has been on the market since 2000 and it is still as popular as when it first made its appearance. It has become one of the most loved and collectible stones in recent years. My husband and I first saw it at the 2001 Quartzsite and Tucson gem shows in Arizona, fell in love with it, and purchased a fair amount. Soon thereafter, I began carving Ocean Jasper into gem sculptures and free-form carvings, incorporating many of them into my jewellery artwork. When I first wrote about Ocean Jasper (Lapidary Journal, February 2004), there was so much material coming out of the mine that we thought Ocean Jasper would be here forever. But since 2006, the quantity of available rough has considerably decreased. After following the mine deposit deep into the host rock, the jasper vein thinned out. The mine reserves were exhausted in 2006 and although the mine owners have been searching for new deposits, nothing new has been reported yet. The current situation is that the prices of the gem material on the market are climbing every year, especially for good quality material with large orbs (#1 grade or AAA grade), if and when accessible. On the The Gem Shop, Inc. website, grade #1 is listed as sold out. There is still material available on the market today, but mostly in lower grades and with very tiny, if any, orbs. Many visually artistic and collectible specimens and particularly finished products are reaching sky-high prices. Another problem is that rough chunks are available mostly in large sizes (over 10 lb), with some even between

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Gems and Minerals

30 to 100 lb each and requiring large slabbing saws for cutting, which would be beyond the average hobby cutter’s workshop capability. They do, however, make beautiful doorstops or poolside rocks!

Physical properties

Ocean Jasper is rarely opaque — a physical property that commonly defines jaspers. It should have been called an agate, but the term ‘ocean agate’ already defines another lapidary material. So, the mine owners decided to call it ‘jasper’, partly because jasper was listed as the mineral resource in the mining claims, and mainly because most rhyolites exhibiting spherical patterns have been associated with jasper in the past. Other orbicular jaspers include the leopard skin jasper from Agua Caliente, Mexico, with red, pink, gold and green colours, the rainforest jasper from Australia with translucent jelly (clear, transparent material) ‘eyes’ within a green background, and the well-known poppy jasper from California, USA, with red-orange ‘eyes’ against a black/grey background. The orbicules are inclusions of quartz or feldspar that have crystallized into radial aggregates of needle-like crystals forming these spherical structures (www.mindat.org) The abundance of orbs, ranging in size from approximately 1 mm–1 cm in diameter, come in an astonishing array of colours and colour combinations. They occur in patterns described as ‘dots’, ‘bull’s eyes’ (concentric rings of various colours and white) or ‘sunflowers’ (needle-like crystals in radial arrangement that resemble petals)(2). The background material, which is composed mostly of chalcedony, can be clear, white, pink, green, red, yellow, grey, brown, maroon or orange, in solid colours or gorgeous swirled or striped patterns. Some may be opaque, but most of it is highly translucent. The colours of this material are all natural and not enhanced in any way. Botryoidal (grape-like or bubble-like) formations, as well as natural cavities (vugs) with white and deep green drusy crystals, are also part of Ocean Jasper’s mineralization (drusy is a generic term for very small crystal mineralization). Orbicular

3: Ocean jasper with drusy cavities — a collector's item. Photo Helen Serras-Herman.

jasper displaying pure-white chalcedony, along with pure-white drusy quartz, is the rarest and most expensive type. These stunning ‘eyes’, along with the swirly and lacy patterns in the chalcedony and the drusy cavities (3) are all nature’s hallmarks that make Ocean Jasper instantly identifiable, and set it apart from any other gem material. All these natural patterns are skillfully used by lapidaries to create unique cabs, single centrepiece beads and carvings. Being a member of the chalcedony family — a cryptocrystalline variety of quartz — with a hardness of 6.5–7 on the Mohs’ scale, Ocean Jasper is compact and tough, while relatively easy to cut and polish.

4: Matched pair slabs. Photo Andrew Herman.

Lapidary and design work

Ocean Jasper was an instant hit with lapidaries and designers. Traditional cabochons, free-form cabs, sculptures and bases for sculptures, eggs and spheres, medallions (round flats), hearts, bowls, bookends and obelisks are some of the forms we see Ocean Jasper cut into. Large slabs with polished faces, plaques, tiles, table tops and display pieces are part of collectors’ wish lists. The material is also used for metaphysical purposes and it is cut into handheld massage tools. Ocean Jasper also became a popular gem material for beads in all shapes and sizes. However, in most bead strands, the diagnostic ‘eyes’ are often too small to be seen, as the bead manufactures are cutting a lot of the lower-end quality material. The orbs will be best noticeable in larger and consequently more expensive beads. My experience with Ocean Jasper has given me plenty of reasons to love it. Here are five of them: • Ocean Jasper takes a high polish, making it a most desirable material for lapidary work. Its hardness is also a great asset for durability and wearability of the jewellery pieces. The tough chalcedony allows preforming on 80–100 grit coarse grinding wheels for fast removal of unwanted material. However, working over

Page 19

Gems&Jewellery / October 2014

Gems and Minerals

Ocean Jasper (cont.) the ‘eyes’ (the ‘sunflowers’ or drusy cavities), requires the lapidary to be more focused and careful, using a light touch on the wheels, as some of the delicate fibrous material may break or splinter off by accident. All these natural inclusions vary in hardness, often requiring extra sanding steps, before reaching the final polish.

5: Ocean Jasper and pink opal necklace. Necklace and photo Helen Serras-Herman.

• Orienting the rough for slabbing may sometimes be challenging. We often change cutting direction after a few slabs in order to produce diverse and best patterns, and stop slabbing when we get close to the drusy pockets, leaving those for special sculptural pieces. The rough chunks of Ocean Jasper also provide ‘clean slabbing’, as they come naturally free of ironstone matrix or pyrite inclusions, which are often the culprits for dirtying the oil in the slab saws. • The fact that each specimen of rough is completely different from the next one makes Ocean Jasper a unique material. Even consecutive slabs cut from one piece of rough may reveal unpredictable and dramatically different patterns. There is often a striking variation between the front and the back surfaces of a single slab or specimen. When the same colours and patterns continue through the rough rock, consecutively-cut ‘butterfly’ slabs from one piece of rough may display mirror-image, symmetrical patterns, often used for matched pairs for earrings (4). When the specimens include vugs, white drusy crystals, ‘eyes’ and ‘sunflowers’, they can really inspire lapidaries to be exceptionally creative (5). I usually follow the natural patterns in the stone and let the design suggest images to the viewer. • Ocean Jasper comes in so many colour combinations offering jewellery designers unlimited design style options. They can incorporate other coloured gemstones, beads and pearls into their jewellery artwork, creating a number of colour palettes complementing the design patterns of the Ocean Jasper. I repeatedly use faceted gemstones of blue-green and yellow sapphires from Montana, USA, green and gold-tone grossular garnets, and orange-red to yellow spessartite garnets to complement the colours of the orbs (6 and 7).

6: White Ocean necklace. Grossular garnets, especially in the green and golden tones, as well as spessartite garnets complement the orange orbs, set with citrine beads and Ocean Jasper beads. Necklace by HSH, in private collection. Photo Michael Colella.

Page 20

7: Ocean Jasper ‘Psychedelic’ pendant. Surrounding the Ocean Jasper are fancy coloured sapphires from Montana. Photo Michael Colella.

• The exotic location and the mining story behind the gem, makes Ocean Jasper an intriguing gem material. Although it has been reported that some specimens of this material have existed since the 1920s, there was no known mine source until the discovery of the mines in Madagascar. The closing of the mine has been fuelling a ‘collectors’ frenzy’. Ocean Jasper has been established as a highly prized and collectible stone during the past decade, and its value will only continue to climb as rough availability dwindles. It is one of nature’s wonders. Customers are truly amazed with its unparalleled range of natural patterns, and are immediately attracted to gemstones, jewellery and decorative items cut from this remarkable material.

About the author Helen Serras-Herman MFA FGA is an acclaimed gem sculptor with over 30 years’ experience in unique gem sculpture and jewellery art. A 2003 National Lapidary Hall of Fame inductee, Helen’s award-winning work has been exhibited worldwide and published in over 140 trade magazine articles and books. Visit her website at www.gemartcenter.com and on Facebook at Gem Art Center/Helen Serras-Herman.

made by gemmologists for gemmologists

Introducing

Gem-A Conference, London, 1-4 Nov 2014 www.gemmoraman.com

Gem-A Conference 2014 Gem-A will host its internationally acclaimed annual conference from Saturday 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tuesday 4 November. Welcoming worldrenowned speakers and delegates from across the globe, and with a reputation for tackling the most innovative and contemporary gemrelated topics in the trade, this event is not to be missed.

SATURDAY 1 AND SUNDAY 2 NOVEMBER

Gem-A Conference Business Design Centre, Islington, London After a century-long absence, Gem-A returns to the former Royal Agricultural Hall, today known as the Business Design Centre, and WKH VLWH RI WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW HYHU *HP $ *UDGXDWLRQ &HUHPRQ\ LQ 5HJLVWUDWLRQ DQG WHD DQG FRIIHH ZLOO FRPPHQFH DW RQ ERWK GD\V DQG WKH &RQIHUHQFH ZLOO FORVH DW RQ 6DWXUGD\ DQG RQ 6XQGD\ Saturday 1 November speakers

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Craig Lynch GG 7KH UHFRYHUHG MHZHOOHU\ RI RMS Titanic

Edward Boehm GG CG $QDO\]LQJ JHPV RQ WKH JR WLSV IURP WKH Ă&#x20AC;HOG

Dr Laurent Cartier FGA $Q XSGDWH RQ ZRUOGZLGH FXOWXUHG SHDUO SURGXFWLRQ

Dr Thomas Hainschwang FGA The challenges faced by green to greenish blue diamonds FRORXUHG E\ QDWXUDO RU DUWLĂ&#x20AC;FLDO LUUDGLDWLRQ

Chris Smith FGA 5XE\ DQG VDSSKLUH VRXUFH Âł W\SH FODVVLĂ&#x20AC;FDWLRQ DQ REMHFWLYH DSSURDFK WR KHOS PDNH FRXQWU\ RI RULJLQ GHWHUPLQDWLRQV more consistent

Alan Hart FGA DGA *HPV DW WKH 1DWXUDO +LVWRU\ 0XVHXP D UHYLHZ DQG D forward look Dr Ulrich Henn 7KH GLIIHUHQW W\SHV RI PRRQVWRQH Brian Cook 3DUDtED WRXUPDOLQH DQ XSGDWH Bahia golden rutilated quartz: an introduction Vincent Pardieu GG From Jedi to Windex: a quest to the origins of the ultimate UHG DQG EOXH VSLQHOV

Dr Menahem Sevdermish FGA )XUWKHU GHYHORSPHQWV LQWR GLJLWDO FRORXU DQDO\VLV JUDGLQJ SULFLQJ DQG WUDGLQJ RI JHPV Terry Coldham FGAA $XVWUDOLDQ VDSSKLUH Âł D IRUJRWWHQ IRXQGDWLRQ VWRQH RI Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gemstone industry Richard Hughes FGA, with special guest John Saul Heretical gemmology

SATURDAY 1 NOVEMBER (EVENING)

Gem-A Conference Dinner Business Design Centre, Islington, London Saturdayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s programme will be followed by a drinks reception commencing at 18:45. Delegates will then be seated at 19:30 for a delicious three-course dinner. Relax and enjoy the company of friends old and new. Dress code is smart/casual.

MONDAY 3 NOVEMBER

Seminars Gem-A Headquarters, Ely Place, London Three practical seminars will take place at Gem-A Headquarters in London. Guest seminar hosts: Richard Drucker FGA GG, President of GemWorld International Inc. Coloured stone grading and pricing workshop Mikko Ă&#x2026;strĂśm FGA and Alberto Scarani GG, GemmoRaman Gemmological applications of Raman and photoluminescence spectroscopy Dr Franz Herzog NEW A portable EDXRF device in gemmology: toy or dream?

MONDAY 3 NOVEMBER (EVENING)

Graduation Ceremony and Presentation of Awards Goldsmithsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Hall, London, 18:30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 21:00 (Registration opens from 18:00) Graduates of the Gemmology Diploma and Diamond Diploma and their family and/ or friends are invited to attend the 2014 Graduation Ceremony and Presentation of Awards. Guest speaker: Tim Matthews FGA DGA CEO of Jewelry Television (JTV)

TUESDAY 4 NOVEMBER

Private visit to the mineral collection at the Natural History Museum Natural History Museum, London

FULLY BOOKED

Hosted by Alan Hart FGA DGA, Head of Collections and Mineralogy Collections

Global ethical challenges within the industry Gem-A Headquarters, Ely Place, London Seminar with Greg Valerio, founder of CRED Jewellery and co-founder of Fair -HZHOOHU\ $FWLRQ 9LYLHQ -RKQVWRQ WUDLQHG JROGVPLWK DQG IRXQGHU RI )LĂ&#x20AC; %LMRX[ DQG Dana Schorr, coloured gemstone importer and President of Schorr Marketing.

Images (opposite page and top) courtesy of Business Design Centre.

To book contact events@gem-a.com or visit our website at www.gem-a.com/news--events/gem-a-conference-2014.aspx Major sponsor

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Business Support: Insurance |

Safety First Protecting your employees, your customers (and yourself) on your premises – have you thought it through? Neil McFarlane of T H March offers some advice on the subject… Employers’ Liability We are often asked for advice regarding Employers’ Liability Insurance so here are a few tips that should help. Needless to say, there is a good deal of common sense involved here. Also, be aware that insurers will likely analyse your claims history when underwriting your Employers’ Liability premium so it follows that if you can help to control your claims, you can potentially lower the price you will have to pay. If or when an accident happens: • investigate accidents immediately and thoroughly; take corrective action to eliminate hazards, and always be aware of possible fraud • report all claims to your insurer at once. Frequently monitor the status of claims, and communicate with the adjuster to resolve them as quickly as possible • when an injured employee returns to work make sure to take a careful approach to providing light duties for them to do, while also ensuring their conformance with any restrictions placed upon them • in more serious cases that involve lost time, communicate with the loss adjuster to demonstrate your interest in returning the injured employee back to gainful employment • get colleagues involved by setting safety performance goals for those with supervisory responsibilities (success in achieving safety goals should be used as one measure during performance appraisals) Other procedures you should put in place include developing a written safety programme, and training employees in their responsibilities for safety. Incorporate a disciplinary policy into the programme that holds employees accountable for breaking rules, or rewards them for following safety

procedures correctly. Frequently communicate with your employees, both formally and informally, regarding the importance of safety and make safety an absolute priority. Lead from the front! Senior management must be visible in the safety effort and must support improvement. An important word about keeping records: evaluate accident history and near misses at least monthly. Look for trends in experience, and take corrective action on the worst problems first. Talk to your insurance broker if you have any questions at all – they are there to help!

Minimising risks to customers on your premises Customer personal injury claims can be costly and damaging to any retail establishment’s reputation and in some environments they can be much more frequent than employee claims. Of course jewellers’ shops tend to be well-maintained and well-monitored by security cameras, but it is still worthwhile thinking about how best to keep your customers, as well as your employees, safe. Safety initiatives aimed primarily at your employees are not sufficient to protect

customers, who are more at risk of accidents than employees for three main reasons: • customers expect a retail premises to be safe • certain groups, such as the elderly or less able-bodied are predisposed to injury • unlike your employees, your customers do not receive safety training in your working environment It is therefore important that you understand to what extent you are liable for customer injuries on your premises and that you take steps to prevent injury. Your liability as a business owner means that you are required to maintain safe premises for your customers. In legal terms, you have a duty of care. This includes the duty to warn your customers of non-obvious, dangerous conditions that you know about, to use ordinary care in active operations in the business, and to make reasonable inspections to discover dangerous conditions and make them safe. The majority of customer accidents are preventable, so it is important to take steps to make your premises safer and less exposed to the risk of customer injury and litigation. The most common injuries that could become your liability include: • slips and falls as a result of wet floors, torn carpets, poor lighting or worn or damaged steps and stairs. This type of injury is extremely common • head and body injuries from falling objects, retail displays, out-of-reach objects or other mishaps • badly sited portable heaters causing burns • car park injuries as a result of cracked, improperly designed parking areas or failure to remove ice or snow You can of course take common-sense steps to minimise the risks by identifying high-risk areas and setting up a regular inspection rota. False claims can happen but this is where jewellers in particular are protected because of security cameras efficiently monitoring the premises, thus providing proof in case of a claim. Liability Insurance will address the cost of legal damages and claims up to your policy limits. Working with your insurance broker to design the liability package that best fits your business is the best way to make certain you are fully protected.

The Voice of the Industry 31

| Feature

Brand Profile Portfolio of Fine Diamonds Launched by Lunn’s of Belfast eight years ago, the diamond jewellery collection has been extended to include an exclusive ring by award-winning designer Sarah Ho. hen Peter Lunn, chairman of the eponymous family jewellers in Belfast, first conceived the idea of Portfolio of Fine Diamonds, his intention was to rebuild the store’s existing collection of diamond rings. “I thought that with the strength of the internet, with ever-increasing competition from online retailers, we needed to re-think [our offer],” he explains. “We were already doing well with our collection of diamond rings, but we decided to create a new collection, that was pitched competitively and would be backed up with a good website and strong marketing that would drive customer to that site.” While Portfolio, which is designed in-house, began as an own brand collection for the store (an N.A.G. member) Lunn “had the feeling” that it was something that “could be taken further”; today there is a small number of partners around the UK who are able to ‘own’ the brand in their own area. However, it wasn’t until last year that Lunn’s daughter Suzanne – who is responsible for Portfolio’s marketing – suggested the idea of a designer

32 The Jeweller October 2014

collaboration. The inaugural contribution was from Stephen Webster and for 2014 the chosen designer is Sarah Ho of SHO Fine Jewellery – a brand carried extensively by the store. “Our intention is to build a family of pretty rings created by leading designers, which gives us something different to talk about,” explains Lunn. Well known for her elegant, feminine style, inspired by her joint Asian and British heritage, Ho has combined her modern, avant-garde approach with a classic charm to create a piece that features a hand-chosen certificated centre stone, feminine curves and smaller diamonds set into the platinum mount. It is a piece that, while contemporary in feel, is clearly designed to stand the test of time. As with all in the Portfolio collection, the Sarah Ho ring is available to retail customers. It is retail-priced at £1,995. As such it sits very competitively within the £750 to £10,000 price range of Portfolio, which has evolved over time – wedding rings and jewellery joining the engagement rings set in platinum and 18ct

gold. The price range reflects the broad reach of the line, but Lunn was well aware when he launched it, that entering an upmarket jewellery store can be an intimidating business. Creating a website that gave prices as well as full details of diamond rings, while an unusual step at the time, gave potential customers the confidence to step through the door. “I think I can say that almost one hundred per cent of clients who have come in to view Portfolio, have come via the website,” he says. “Most people in the UK use the internet for research purposes, but our experience is that they then like to come in and see, touch and feel before they buy.” So what, in Lunn’s view, sets Portfolio of Fine Diamonds apart from other branded diamond jewellery collections (a compelling designer collaboration aside)? “The quality is superb – all the stones are certified by a leading independent laboratory. And then the pricing is very keen; we compare ourselves on a monthly basis against our competitors. We also have a sound training side so that staff understand how the product needs to be sold. This is bound together with a strong website and marketing,” he explains. The site has been created as a completely separate enterprise to that of Lunn’s and provides a wealth of information from ‘how to buy a diamond’ to ‘why choose platinum’. Visitors will also find a page dedicated to profiles of the brand’s partners, with click-throughs for customers in each area to see the stock carried by that jeweller, along with map, opening times and contact details. Clear, considered and comprehensive – that’s one in the eye for would-be e-tailing competitors!

The Voice of the Industry 33

PJ Watson

For a few years escalating prices ensured that gold remained headline news. Platinum, meanwhile, continued to play its major role, particularly in the bridal market. We examine the popularity of the precious white metal – and its challenger, palladium – and look at who’s doing what with it today.

Platinum’s performance was undoubtedly assisted by the fashion trend for white metal, and the continued marketing activity of the Platinum Guild. It was also supported by the reduced differential between the price of platinum or white gold. Until 2008 platinum prices were around twice that of gold which, added to the higher fineness – 950 parts per thousand for platinum versus 750 parts per thousand for 18 carat white gold – made it a significantly more expensive option. The leap in gold prices from 2008 onwards saw this gap narrow and the price of fine gold eventually exceeded that of platinum during 2011. However, it is not all about price. Platinum has the benefit of being significantly whiter than white gold alloys; the perfect setting for a high quality diamond. It does not need plating to enhance it, so customer satisfaction issues with regard to plating wearing off to reveal a duller metal underneath, which are often a problem with white gold, do not apply.

Image courtesy of Domino

The platinum story While gold is making a comeback, the most precious of the white metals, platinum, is still a firm bridal favourite, with hallmarking volumes holding steady, as Marion Wilson, sales and marketing director, Birmingham Assay Office (BAO) explains here: Platinum is still a newcomer to the centuries old UK hallmarking system, having required an independent hallmark only since 1975. The new metal option made

34 The Jeweller October 2014

a very slow entry into the market, taking until 1985 to exceed just 20 hallmarked units per year and remaining at between 8,000 to 10,000 for another decade until 1994. Since then platinum has been successfully marketed as the ultimate precious metal, particularly for the bridal market. Emphasis on its rarity has built valuable status, and jewellery sales have proved relatively resilient during the financial turmoil since 2008.

Platinum Mounts

Feature | The chemical composition and structure of platinum means that platinum alloys do not tarnish and all these long-term wearability factors add to its appeal. Platinum continues to be the bridal metal of choice – 257,000 platinum articles were hallmarked in the UK in 2013. This represents a 29 per cent drop in the 10 years since 2004, compared with a massive 83 per cent drop in all gold volumes from 24.5m million to 4.1m over the same period. Hallmarked platinum units in the first half of 2014 show a 1.5 per cent increase against the same period of last year, showing that the white metal is holding its ground despite the resurgence of gold as the price drops. MW

Why platinum? By and large, the Assay Office’s overview of the platinum market is borne out by comments from those using the precious metal in their collections. “We were forerunners in the field of platinum and worked extensively with Platinum Guild International to promote it in this country,” says Andrew Sollitt, sales and marketing director of Domino. “It is undoubtedly the premium precious metal and its purity, natural whiteness and rarity make it highly desirable and the most popular choice for many Domino stockists.” “We only use the very finest materials for crafting our Raphael Collection. This means that platinum takes precedence every time over 18ct white and palladium,” adds Gemex’s Lee Ruben. “Furthermore, the kudos associated with platinum and the fact that the consumer is more likely to appreciate the weight of an item in it than in 18ct white gold… definitely make platinum much more popular with our retail partners.” For designer Sarah Jordan, platinum is the mainstay of her bridal range, having, to date, used no other metal for her ladies” wedding bands and engagement rings. “I always prefer to use precious metals in their natural form, so for pure white I would always go for platinum over white gold,” she explains. Cindy Dennis Mangan of Dennis & Lavery says that she prefers to work with platinum. “Its innate whiteness, density and quality make it easier to assure customers about the longevity of their jewellery,” she says. “I use it regardless of price but, with couples, the man is always the one concerned to get more weight for his money.

Danhov

I’m now considering whether to use palladium as an accent material.” At Fei Liu platinum is used for all of the brand’s bridal collections, and is the main material selected by its stockists of wedding jewellery. “It’s chosen for its opulence and luxury, so is more prominent in life-changing purchases, which includes bespoke pieces,” says the designer. At CW Sellors platinum

is also used frequently for client designs and bespoke pieces. “I personally prefer it because of the rarity of the material and its properties – it is a lot more difficult to work with compared to gold as it is a lot harder, but I feel that the final product looks and feels a lot nicer.” Whether to use platinum or gold for a piece, is a cost as well as aesthetic consideration. Putting a price on it Vivian Watson of PJ Watson explains that: “Platinum represents in precious metal what we as a company stand for. It embodies quality and value. Generally we would use platinum for items over £2,000 as it adds justifiable value to the finished product, whereas we use 18 carat gold for less expensive items. The core whiteness of platinum is the only metal which is appropriate for setting D colour diamonds,” he adds. “Platinum is the optimum metal with which to work, due to its strength and ability to maintain its colour. We feel that it is always better for the consumer to purchase a platinum piece, if they can afford it, in preference to 18ct, as the item will have greater durability,” adds Bernard Ungar of fine jewellery brand Ungar & Ungar. “We are driven by consumer demand as to which metal we use, and now that the price is stable, the demand continues to grow.”

It is undoubtedly the premium precious metal and its purity, natural whiteness and rarity make it highly desirable…

Ungar & Ungar

The Voice of the Industry 35

tresorparis.com

Feature | “Our customers are looking at a purchase from an investment angle, and platinum’s purity helps them to appreciate its intrinsic value. When a customer is spending a big chunk of money on stones, a couple of hundred pounds more for the best metal makes sense.”

Price no obstacle? The general consensus among platinum users is that price is not an issue. As Gary Sinclair of PH Rings puts it: “consumers are not put off by platinum’s high prices – they expect to pay a high price for this metal”. “Platinum’s natural white colour is a huge selling point, as is its weight when compared

Stubbs & Co

Stubbs & Co has noticed a marked increase in sales of platinum rings over the past year. “There is no doubt that platinum’s whiteness will always surpass any 9ct/18ct ‘white gold’ alloy, even one enriched with the highest concentrations of palladium or silver. So a customer who is seeking a prime white metal ring should always opt for platinum,” says David Shem-Tov. “While we do produce our rings in white gold and

always aim to achieve the highest grades of ‘whiteness’, there are often technical challenges in doing so.” “When a client is looking for a white metal, we do prefer to work with platinum rather than white gold,” adds Jessica Neiwert, of US diamond jewellery brand Sholdt. “We find that their expectations of a white metal lie in the properties that platinum provides – a truly white metal that doesn’t need to be plated, without undertones of warmth, which can be sized or repaired easily, and which will last a life time. The realities of white gold usually bring some surprise or dismay to the consumer.” The fact that the consumer appreciates the qualities of platinum, is confirmed by Gary Ingram, director of The Diamond Store. “Platinum is seen as a premium product and it accounts for one in four of all of our engagement ring purchases. Our customers definitely perceive it as an investment choice… they feel they are buying better when they buy platinum,” he says. Jayant Raniga of Purejewels agrees that platinum is synonymous with luxury. “It’s our default metal; our entire new bridal collection is in platinum,” the Green Street retailer explains.

Hockley Mint

Generally we would use platinum for items over £2,000 as it adds justifiable value to the finished product…

The growth of the global platinum market

CW Sellors

According to Platinum Guild International’s (PGI) 2014 Retail Trade Barometer released in April this year, the demand for platinum jewellery is forecast to grow by 5.3 per cent across the four key global markets (China, India, Japan and the USA which accounted for 92 per cent of global demand in 2014). The PGI decided to undertake research into the platinum jewellery market as it is the second largest user of platinum (35 per cent) after the autocatalyst market, and to date there has been little available data on retail sales.

The Voice of the Industry 37

| Feature

Sholdt

with gold, so we use it regardless of price,” explains Phillip Beale at Charles Green, where 70 per cent of the output is accounted for by platinum and palladium. “Price has little or no bearing at all with regards to demand when you are manufacturing a top end bridal product. If anything, the more expensive it gets, people want a piece of it,” adds Ruben. “We fix the price of an item on the date it is

ordered, not sometime in the future on the date the item is being delivered. That way the customer always knows the price in advance of delivery and can relax knowing that, even if the platinum fix increases, that will not increase the price of the item they have ordered from us.” Tankel has seen a growing demand for platinum recently. “The difference in price between it and gold is not so great any more, so if a customer can afford platinum, they’ll go for it,” says Tony Tankel. “Their perception is that platinum is more special, especially if they want a good stone; if a stone is D colour, then it’s almost always set in platinum.”

The difference in price between it and gold is not so great any more, so if a customer can afford platinum, they’ll go for it…

Gemex

Dennis & Lavery

And as far as price fluctuations are concerned, coping with it should be at the heart of every successful jewellery manufacturer, in the view of Sollitt. “While the bullion markets are currently much more stable than they have been in recent years, this doesn’t really mean anything – there could be some unforeseen geopolitical shock tomorrow, and things would immediately be all over the place again,” he says. “Nothing is certain – apart from the uncertainty – so you have to develop a variety of coping strategies and ways of hedging your risk. At WB The Creative jewellery Group we have a fairly philosophical view about price fluctuation, which after all affects our competitors as much as ourselves, and have found that sometimes you take the profits and sometimes you take the hits, but that things generally seem to even out in the longer run.”

Palladium potential

Platinum trends from forecasting agency WGSN The three key directions are: • Luxury Archeology – emphasising craftsmanship, production skills, natural textures and refinement. Interlocking, loops, delicate stone-set rings, cut-away effects. • Sublime Nature – influences from the vitality and life from the natural world, particularly the forms of plants and flowers. Garlands, plays on scale and proportion, fluid shapes and curves • Digital fantasy – skewed shapes and geometric forms inspired by virtual reality and iPhones. Simplicity, graphic lines, mirror-like finishes unisex pieces.

38 The Jeweller October 2014

It may have taken a little while to take off, but palladium (part of the platinum group of elements, discovered in 1803 and named after the asteroid Pallas) is beginning to gain a little ground within the jewellery trade. “We use palladium 500 and 950. It is a feel-alike and lookalike, and a far cheaper alternative to platinum, so many consumers buy palladium wedding rings as an economic replacement for platinum,” says PH Rings’ Sinclair. “We do use palladium, though we have found that it is better suited for certain types of jewellery rather than others,” explains

| Feature Neiwert. “Pieces that are prone to large amounts of wear on fine detailing are poor choices for palladium, as repair work is more difficult down the road. However, palladium makes an excellent choice for items such as men’s bands, simple rings/bands, earrings, or pendants.”

Palladium gives our retailers additional choice and can be a good way... for them to be able to meet certain important price points… “Palladium gives our retailers additional choice and can be a good way – especially when it comes to men’s rings – for them to be able to meet certain important price points,” agrees Sollitt. “It’s the least requested of all the alloys we offer, but that may be because it is still a relative newcomer to the precious jewellery scene. That said, our palladium sales are increasing and we are optimistic for further growth in the future.” Meanwhile, at Charles Green palladium has become an important metal for its gents’ collections, being offered across the board for all of the men’s rings, including patterned and diamond set. And Sarah Jordan has also started to make gents wedding bands in palladium, a price-based consideration as her male customers have

Sarah Jordan

40 The Jeweller October 2014

Charles Green

been opting for larger, more dramatic bands of late. “We use palladium 950 mainly for heavier pieces, gents’ ring especially,” says Ruben. “Because palladium is cheaper and

a lot lighter, gents’ jewellery becomes more attractively priced and it’s possible to have a white metal, that remains white and always in fashion.” I

Notes on palladium In the last five years platinum has seen a challenge from palladium, which has required hallmarking since July 2009. Palladium has similar properties to platinum, being naturally white, and not susceptible to tarnishing. However, it is very different to work with as it readily mixes with hydrogen and oxygen when heated. Historically, palladium has been difficult to cast by traditional methods but new technology has overcome many of these issues and it is now possible to cast palladium consistently and without porosity. Unlike platinum the demand for palladium was immediate and nearly 45,000 articles were hallmarked in the second half of 2009 despite the hallmark not being compulsory Stephen Webster piece created until January 2010. That year saw over 114,000 to promote palladium hallmarking palladium articles marked, compared with 266,000 platinum and these volumes have remained relatively constant ever since. While some designers have proved the versatility of palladium with one-off pieces, the Assay Office sees few such items. Palladium has become a substitute, in a small way, for 9ct and 18ct white gold wedding rings, and platinum ones too. It is particularly popular for men’s wedding rings, a category which high bullion prices pushed to a new upmarket status during 2011. Palladium is approximately half as dense as platinum; the identical article is therefore much less expensive in palladium than platinum as it contains less weight of a significantly cheaper metal. Some manufacturers are exploiting the opportunity further by offering palladium 500 as opposed to the more frequently offered 950 fineness. Pd 500 is an accepted UK standard but the Hallmarking Act does not prevent the use of the word palladium on its own, allowing great potential for confusion among consumers who may be inadvertently comparing two very different, but visually identical, products. Such comparison is a clear reminder of the importance of hallmarking, but the consumer may not realise until too late that they have misunderstood the value of their purchase. The British Hallmarking Council has issued guidance notes to overcome this problem and retailers are strongly recommended to include the fineness in their product descriptions. Marion Wilson, BAO

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048/07-14

The Voice of the Industry 41

| Business Support: Security

Brought to you

by:

THE NA AT ASSOCI IONAL OF GOLDATION SMITHS

Can you really afford not to secure the future of your business?

In conjunc tion with:

Security Confere 21 nce

Sec at th

Eve

On the 21st of this month, the N.A.G. will be hosting a day-long conference in Watford on crime facing the jewellery industry – independent retailers in particular. he event, which is sponsored by Fog Bandit, and co-hosted by insurers to the jewellery sector TH March and fellow association The British Jewellers' Association, will include illuminating talks by experts across a range of security fields, while other product and service providers will be on-hand to discuss and demonstrate the most up-to-date methods of fighting crime. In addition to the nine specialist speakers, the day will feature live product demonstrations by Bandit UK, Glass Solutions, Selectamark and SkyGuard as shown below. If you have yet to decide whether or not to attend the Conference (can you really afford not to?) here we offer a preview of some of the day’s highlights.

Fogging system – Bandit UK

Security glass – Glassolutions

Our nine specialist security speakers Neil Chrismas – Fog Bandit Security fog deterring and foiling raids across the jewellery sector – including the latest CCTV case studies and Best Practice approach Robbery is a crime against people and its effect on an individual can be long lasting. Over the last three years Fog Bandit has successfully thwarted 26 robberies without any injuries to the people exposed to this most frightening experience. Most importantly, no activation failures have ever been experienced. In the majority of cases there have been no stock losses or just minor losses with a few. Confidence in Fog Bandit helps empower staff to protect themselves and their business by creating an element of control in an otherwise control-less and shocking encounter. Rapidly removing the criminal’s access to assets has negated or minimised stock loss and damage to property. Our aim is to send a clear deterrent message to criminals – that targeting premises with a Fog Bandit system installed, is a fruitless exercise and heightens the likelihood of being caught.

Lee Henderson and Simon Gardner – SaferGems

Security watermarking – Selectamark

42 The Jeweller October 2014

Personal alarm – Sky Guard

Current crime trends, suspicious behaviour/ activity awareness and good news SaferGems is an initiative against crime in the jewellery, pawnbroking and antiques industries. It was introduced in June 2009 following concern about the increase in

Business Support: Security | crime committed against the jewellery trade. It endeavours to collate attacks, incidents and intelligence. The scheme is funded by the jewellery industry through membership of the N.A.G., TH March and the BJA and is hosted by The British Security Industry Association. It records details of crimes against the jewellery industry, records details of suspicious activity, creates a link between the industry and police, circulates images, new crime trends and details of both stolen/seized property and assists police in linking offences and offenders. The SaferGems team comprises: • Lee Henderson, a leading expert in jewellery crime and jewellery criminals in the UK • Simon Gardner who joined the team in March this year to assist Lee • Dick Hanks who supervises the team and was instrumental in SaferGems’ creation. All three have previous police experience. Lee and Simon will also be using the presentation to promote the proposed SaferGems Watch Register, a searchable database containing high value watches, bought/ sold (new or pre-owned) and lost or stolen. SaferGems will also provide a search facility to the industry and police allowing them to check the authenticity of a watch.

Simon Cham, Flying Squad, Metropolitan Police, and Paul Johnson, crime prevention co-ordinator Prevention tactics, common weaknesses, recent examples of jewellery crimes and behind-the-scenes insights Paul Johnson was a police officer for 30 years at West Mercia Police, working in roles including intelligence, suspect identification and crime prevention with the Fraud Squad. He joined the Met in January 2013 and is responsible for crime prevention advice/support for those affected by armed robbery where a firearm is used or intimated.

Paul shares the platform with DCI Simon Cham who has 29 years within the CID. He has worked on the Flying Squad and MPS Projects Team investigating serious and organised crime across the MPS. He is currently head of the Flying Squad West.

Neil McFarlane – TH March Travelling with jewellery and CCTV images – challenges and solutions Following a number of SaferGems alerts recently, the following two key areas have been identified as current ‘hot topics’ and Neil aims to give practical advice on tackling: • travelling with jewellery • CCTV systems and pictures With the use of some real life examples, attendees will be able to see some of the challenges presented, together with some simple steps that can be taken to reduce risk and increase effectiveness.

Warren Ottaway – Skyguard Protecting employees with personal safety alarms – and what can happen if you don’t. Skyguard is the provider of Europe’s premier personal safety service for lone workers and people at risk. Sales manager, Warren Ottaway will discuss how the personal safety service works, why you should protect your lone working staff, what can happen to you and your organisation if you don’t and how issuing personal alarms helps fulfil employers’ Duty of Care while increasing staff confidence and morale.

James Brown – Selectamark Security Systems Prevention through fear of detection Protecting jewellers from robberies is complex and challenging. Selectamark believes that deterring and preventing organised gangs from targeting sites is key to winning the battle. There are some extremely effective systems available

to prevent stock being taken in the event of a robbery, but forensic marking systems will help ensure criminals don’t even step inside your premises – the use of DNA technology to link criminal to crimes is well known. James Brown, managing director of Selectamark, is a council member of the BSIA’s Asset and Property Marking section, a committee member of Banknote Watch and sits on the ADS Security Export Focus Group.

Ryan Barry – WorldPay Protecting your business from card fraud Payment card fraud is on the increase in the UK and is no longer limited to the biggest retailers. Over the last few years, card fraud has grown rapidly in the small to mediumsized retailer sector. In this presentation, Ryan will describe the different types of fraud you may be exposed to, including ecommerce, face-to-face and card-notpresent fraud, along with measures you can take to protect your business. By educating yourself to the risks of taking card payments and the tools available, you will be better prepared to mount an effective defence against the criminals who are eager to target high-value jewellery retailers.

Clive Meeks – Glassolutions Key benefits of using enhanced security glazing As part of the global SaintGobain Group and through decades of experience, Glassolution provides high quality, innovative glass products and services. The company’s continued customerservice focus is backed by industryleading technical expertise and on-going investment in its people, products and the latest technology. Clive, Glassolution’s product manager, will present the range of composite security products which combine the mechanical strength of polycarbonate with the abrasion resistance of glass, providing a robust solution to aggressive manual attack on vulnerable high value display windows. For more information on the Security Conference please email Hannah Harvey at: hannah@jewellers-online.org

The Voice of the Industry 43

WB The Creative Jewellery Group

As the Union Jack flutters – intact – in the autumn breeze, Belinda Morris considers the health of the UK jewellery industry and what the ‘made in Britain’ claim means today. hile a feature celebrating ‘Britishness’ was not conceived to be quite so topical, there’s no doubt that recent matters over the border have helped to focus the collective mind on what ‘made in Britain’ might mean these days. We now know what it means to our friends in the North, but closer to home – ‘home’ being the jewellery industry – it is an epithet that comes with its own particular set of emotions, questions and conditions. For editorial purposes, and because you have to draw a line somewhere, ‘made in Britain’ means just that. Made in Britain. It’s a truth universally accepted that this country boasts the finest jewellery and design schools in the world, turning out, in turn, some of the most innovative and creative designer makers. However, not all of these alumni go on to produce in this country. The reasons for this are many and various and the intention here is not to denigrate the manufacture available elsewhere, but to acknowledge the heritage, skills and craftsmanship that the UK has to offer.

44 The Jeweller October 2014

Bring up the subject – as I did at IJL last month – and realists of a gloomy persuasion are quick to point out that jewellery manufacture in Britain is not what it was. The word ‘decimated’ is muttered. Those working in the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter, with memories that stretch back beyond 15 years or so will attest to this fact. But while factories and workshops might be outnumbered by importers these days, the trade still bustles with industry – some of it well-marketed, much of it unheralded.

PH Rings

‘Made in Britain’ means…?

To a purist it means being manufactured here – not as clear-cut as that word might imply, as Apple Nooten-Boom of Hean Studios explains: “There is now a lot of imported product carrying hallmarks that the public don’t understand as being foreign. Product is also brought in, one other process is carried out, and then submitted as UK made… not so. Over the last 25 years manufacturing has been decimated, and the army of contract manufacturers that

Feature | used to exist have gone. Even the top names in Bond Street have been having their highend jewels made in the Far East. I rely on UK-based manufacturers and designer makers as the only available customer base for my casting services,” he adds. We might be lacking an ‘army’, but the British jewellery industry can still boast a highly motivated and well-equipped platoon. And it’s vociferous. “We are extremely proud to have been at the forefront of manufacturing in the UK for the past 65 years – all of Weston Beamor’s output is manufactured here in Birmingham. Ours was the very first, lost wax casting company to use centrifugal technology in this country and we have continued to innovate ever since,” says Andrew Morton, managing director of WB the Creative Jewellery Group. “As a Group we have invested very heavily in new technologies and these have been essential in maintaining our competitiveness. We have also invested in staff training and apprenticeships and are proud to be passing down essential hand skills to the next generation. Our diamondsetting department in particular has expanded rapidly over recent years to meet demand from retailers.” Fellow Birmingham Jewellery Quarter resident and family business Charles Green (established in 1824) is also up for a little flag-waving. “For us the ‘made in Britain’ tag is both meaningful and critical,” says Phillip Beale head of design and marketing. “We have a long and proud history of British design and manufacture – more than 99 per cent of our products are made on site – and therefore we shout about it as much as possible on all of our marketing and branding.” Meanwhile, in London, Allied Gold is equally proud of its British tag. As well as producing one hundred per cent of its wedding rings, castings and stampings in the UK, it also manufactures all of its own tooling in-house and very often its equipment too. “Made in Britain is extremely important to us,” says director Elizabeth Hunt. “We take pride and pleasure in training our staff and providing product which has full traceability in its manufacturing, finishing and hallmarking. Retaining and developing skills in the UK is something we all have a passionate belief in – once skills are lost to overseas production it is very difficult, or indeed impossible, to get them back again,” she says.

Dennis & Lavery

of the company,” explains managing director Gary Wroe. “If we can produce it here we will; if not we endeavour to find the short term solution with a view to developing the skills and technology that allow us to make the step change to bring it here. Our factory has been custom-built with a view to growth and expansion.” Along with these and other significantlysized manufacturers – such as Tankel, CW Sellors, PJ Watson, RE Morrish, PH Rings, and Deakin & Francis, all of whom make at least 80 per cent of their product in the UK – there are (contrary to some concerns) smaller designer makers offering British-made goods. “One hundred per cent

“…while factories and workshops might be outnumbered by importers, the trade still bustles with industry...” “We are proud of our long family history of jewellery manufacturing and feel honoured to be one of the few UK companies left with our own manufacturing workshop,” adds Suzanne Adams of London Road and EW Adams. “We feel passionate about building on the success of the previous two generations and not squandering the amazing resource we have, including our team of hugely talented and experienced craftspeople.” Back in Birmingham, Hockley Mint employs 108 staff in its factory, with the majority of products made there. As with a number of UK companies, there are some components that it does not have the capability or technology to produce onsite. “Made in Britain is a significant part of the foundation

of my products are made in Britain,” says Cindy Dennis Mangan of Dennis & Lavery. “And that means conceptualised, prototyped, reproduced, assayed and hallmarked in Britain – end-to-end manufacture must be on British soil. I believe deeply in supporting local manufacture. If these skills are lost to a nation, it becomes dependent on cheap manufacture from abroad, which is a dangerous position to be in long term.” Alexandra Robson, founder and designer of Augustine Jewels also manufactures all her pieces here (although chains and findings are Italian, a situation she would ideally like to remedy). “Made in Britain is very important to us as it means that we can control the quality. I can see production every day and if I’m not happy with something I can

Deakin & Francis

The Voice of the Industry 45

| Feature tweak it,” she explains. “For our more significant bespoke pieces it is imperative that I am watching production all the time as hand-drawn designs need to be explained and altered.”

Reasons to be cheerful…

“We should be proud of our unbroken heritage of world-leading design, the creation of the hallmarking act, the apprenticeship schemes that are passing on vital skills to future generations, and our industry’s dedication to high levels of craftsmanship,” says Dennis Mangan. And as Gary Sinclair of PH Ring points out: “Our diamond millers and polishers here in the UK are among the finest and far superior to anything picked up in the Far East.” “Britain, across all aspects of manufacturing, is a world leader,” adds Beale. “We should be proud that year after year new technologies are advancing our trade and combine this with skilled, dedicated craftsman, we produce something that is well made and desirable. Many companies in the jewellery trade should also be proud that they advance the skills within our industry. We, along with our competitors, strive to bring through young apprentices into the trade, to teach them skilled bench work,” he adds.

Carr’s Silver

46 The Jeweller October 2014

Charles Green

“We take pride and pleasure in training our staff and providing product which has full traceability in its manufacturing, finishing and hallmarking...” It’s not all about jewellery of course. “When it comes to silverware Carr’s is the only UK company that manages the silver fabrication process on site. Our experience and expertise give us an unrivalled advantage in terms of quality and delivery management,” explains sales director Andrew Carr. “We continue to research and develop innovative engineering and manufacturing processes, which means we can maintain high product quality, while keeping the price competitive. ‘Made in Britain’ is essential to the future of [our] business and this industry, as there is only a small number of British “start-to-finish’ manufacturers left.” “The UK has historically always been a centre of excellence for craftsmanship, engineering, innovation and design,” says Nooten-Boom. “British can mean, ‘the best’, and we should be proud of that and

demand better quality products. However, consumerism is driven by transient fashion and price – it’s all about instant gratification. Imported product that needs repair or adjustment is not being sent back to the Far East, it is being supported and propped up by the remaining small workshops in the UK. This further undermines UK manufacturing.”

Hockley Mint

| Feature British-made. “It is with the silver collections that I am under pressure to move production abroad as wholesalers expect significant discounts and it is quite hard to achieve the retail/wholesale ratio required with labour costs in Britain,” says Robson.

What price patriotism?

“I think this is a question of getting what you pay for,” says Morton. “Domino product is undoubtedly not the cheapest in the market but price isn’t everything and we like to think we offer our customers and the consumer at large, that little bit more in terms of unique design, a very fast turnaround (which simply cannot be matched by overseas factories) great flexibility and more choice. We also work very hard to meet the retailers’ requirements in terms of price by offering the same design across different stone sizes and by creating smaller, lighter pieces. I do not know if a consumer always comes into a jewellery retailer looking for ‘British made’ but I would imagine that if the provenance of a piece is explained to them during the sale, it could be a really positive factor in helping them to make up their minds,” he adds. “In our experience, people are prepared to pay more for jewellery made in the UK, especially when they know it has been crafted by hand and made to extremely high quality,” says Rebecca Sellors, jewellery designer and product development manager at CW Sellors, which has 24 people working at the bench and manufactures 95 per cent of its products in Derbyshire. “I believe there is more sentiment attached to buying British,” says Wroe. “Retailers are more confident to buy British with the service levels and after-

Allied Gold

48 The Jeweller October 2014

The more commercial option?

Augustine Jewels

“If manufacturing skills are lost to a nation, it becomes dependent on cheap manufacture from abroad...” care packages.” “I believe that the average UK-based consumer sees ‘less risk’ when buying a British product,” adds Beale. We’re still in the business of making money though. At Augustine trade customers and consumers of the higher-end gold and platinum pieces are prepared to pay more for

While we can allow ourselves to feel smug that some of the best, award-winning, PR-savvy jewellery designers in the world are working out of the UK, it must be acknowledged that many of them prefer (or are forced) to go elsewhere to have their designs manufactured. It’s generally the Far East and it’s often a commercial consideration. “This is interesting because it defines commerciality as competitive on price alone,” says Cindy Dennis Mangan. “I see their point because I’ve not yet met a retail buyer who cared more about country of origin than low wholesale prices. The lion’s share of persuasion [to make in the UK] has to come from retail buyers committing to selling British-made products with convincing ‘value and assurance’ values.” Elizabeth Hunt can “fully understand” smaller designer makers looking elsewhere. “If for example a piece requires a great deal of hand setting, then if the range is to be commercially successful, it is often only viable with less expensive labour rates,” she says. “But for simpler designs where the production runs are shorter, with a little searching and negotiation then I believe many UK manufacturers can compete. The Far East has many benefits, but it also has many drawbacks. Designers need to be sure of the integrity of their factories; they need to be one hundred per cent certain that their designs will not be copied. If they have a UK manufacturer they can check up on production, move lines through quickly at short notice and keep a very tight control on their quality.” Added to which, as some have pointed out, the Far East might not always, necessarily, be the cheaper option. “The price rises in the last couple of years, combined with supply and quality issues on products made in China, has created real opportunities for a new resurgence of manufacturing in the UK, particularly for higher end products,” says Suzanne Adams. “For designer makers

Feature | producing in the UK can offer benefits – being closer to the manufacturing process can result in smoother production cycles, better quality products and much shorter lead times for new collections and for regular orders.”

Halting the decline

While those who produce in the UK are willing to blow their own trumpets, apathy or complacency are clearly not options. “The decline in manufacturing is a major concern to me,” says Gary Wroe. “Manufacturing accounted for 30 per cent of GDP in 1970; 12 per cent in 2010 and in 2014 it was 10 per cent. These figures are extremely worrying – our manufacturing capabilities are eroding. What would help is an earlier introduction to manufacturing at school age, showing students that there is an alternative career in production. We need to encourage potential design engineers, production operatives and CNC setters to enter the market and help to develop the manufacturing industry. It is evident we are becoming a service industry; this will be dangerous not only for service, design and quality capabilities, but also our economy in the widest sense.” Elizabeth Hunt agrees. “I feel there needs to be greater emphasis on there being a satisfaction in making beautiful or innovative things and that manufacturing is not a dirty word! It would be great to have

EW Adams

an appreciation of how products are made more widely known, and taught in the curriculum at school,” she says. “I am concerned by the fact that young people see value in being famous for the sake of being famous, not for creating something to be proud of.” Nooten-Boom has fairly strong views on how the British jewellery industry might get back on track. “The government has made some noises about supporting and rebuilding manufacturing in the UK. This is vitally important to create a strong economy. Manufacturing creates real wealth because it adds real value into the supply chain,” he says. Steps to take? “Shift away from the service industries, seriously reduce the salaries and bonuses of the banking and financial sector and encourage greater investment in manufacturing, as well as skills training and proper traditional apprenticeship opportunities. Only with a strong manufacturing sector can real wealth be created,” he adds. Andrew Carr agrees that investing in apprenticeships is crucial: “Many of our workforce are second generation employees and we regularly appoint apprentices so that the experienced team members can pass on their silversmith skills to a new generation.”

The Voice of the Industry 49

| Feature In the view of Andrew Morton, keeping one step ahead in terms of technology is “clearly essential” if British companies are to compete “and great design also has a major role to play”. Education, he says, is important too – “not just ensuring that we have a fully-trained and skilled workforce – but also educating the public to appreciate the advantages of buying British.”

And finally…

London Road

“With a UK manufacturer designers can check up on production, move lines through quickly at short notice and keep a very tight control on their quality...” Alexandra Robson is equally concerned that action is needed. “We need to help businesses move from one or two craftsmen working in a workshop in Hatton Garden, to a production capacity of say 30 craftsmen all working to the same high standards,” she says. “This could be achieved by better primary stage venture capital opportunities

Tregawne

50 The Jeweller October 2014

– it is very hard for these small businesses to finance themselves to the next stage. We also need better apprenticeship schemes to allow for younger workers aged 16 plus to be apprenticed while they continue with their studies – this is only really currently possible in large companies, not smaller workshops.”

“Decades of not supporting manufacturing and skills training leads us to where we are today,” says Nooten-Boom. “It needs a serious attitude change in all sectors. Eventually the Far East will no longer be cheaper, but if there’s no option to manufacture here, the UK will be subjected to more expensive product imports, and nothing to export to counter that trade. But it’s not all bad news. “We are seeing a move back onshore with some of our clients, if the level of service, finish and even lead times promised at the start of a Far East relationship often is not maintained once

CW Sellors

bulk production starts, explains Hunt. “If we appreciate our strengths and build on them, Britain can hold its head high in all areas of jewellery design and production.” “ ‘Challenge’ is a word that sums up the manufacturing sector – finance, changing technology, imported goods, skills, staffing, greater demands… all of which have to be planned for and actioned,” says Wroe. “I believe the manufacturing industry remains resilient in mitigating these challenges; the companies that are leading the way continue to invest in the plant, skills and product design. We need a united manufacturing industry where we are working together to overcome the issues we have now and in the foreseeable future.” I

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52 The Jeweller October 2014

Feature |

While we want to beat the British drum for its design skills, craftsmanship and heritage, we would be burying our heads in the sand to believe that the UK jewellery manufacturing industry is not under threat. Gordon Hamme, chairman and founder of British Silver Week, who has worked in the UK jewellery trade for 40 years, tells things as he sees them. he demise of UK jewellery manufacturing happened quite some ago with the hollowing out of major manufacturers just using their home bases for design and master-making while passing manufacturing to Thailand, China and more recently Vietnam. In effect this did happen without retailers realising what was going on, with the home producers designing for the UK market using foreign factories while controlling quality and branding. In the UK now there are no more than a handful of significant jewellery factories making bespoke to order pieces such as

Thailand, with 5,000 workers supplying the global jewellery market. Where does the UK stand? Sorry, but we don’t.” The pretence has finished off massproduced UK jewellery making, with supply mostly passing to genuine wholesalers openly bringing in foreign manufactured jewellery without the legend that any British factory was involved. The exception is Scottish and Welsh producers trading on nationalistic sentiments to sell branded products, however even they are under pressure to price cut and hence have product made abroad.

Go to the top degree shows and see that the universities are producing the very finest designers, however the world knows this and is sending their best to be taught here. They are learning design, technique and branding from us and they have significant resources behind them. wedding and engagement rings, which have to have short delivery times – unlike the 10-12 week order times from the Far East. I was recently asked: “Does the decline in manufacturing in the UK concern you? What might the solution be?” My answer: “Large scale jewellery manufacture died years ago, we’re left with small ateliers and specialist manufacturers employing up to 100 people. That’s as good as it gets. There are 5,000 jewellery factories in China, with a small factory being catagorised as 300 workers. There are several factories there, and in

‘Made in Britain’ has become ‘designed in Britain’ and ‘managed by a British company’ with manufacturing becoming an exceedingly grey area. For example, there are no significant component makers in the UK. The majority are actually Italian, so where do you draw the line when calling a piece of jewellery British made, even if most of it is made in the UK? And what about the cast or stamped elements of a piece? A recent example comes from a designer who needed small castings as part of a piece of jewellery – a UK caster price is £2.75 each, the Thailand

price is 50p each. Quality difference – none, delivery difference – a few days extra. What would you do? The jewellery was assembled in London. Is it a British piece of jewellery? At the most recent IJL trade fair a number of new designers stood smiling through a barrage of comments from UK retailers that they were selling work at a wholesale price which those retailers claimed they would need to sell for. Idealism rapidly goes out of the window when the mortgage needs paying. Retailers are absolutely not prepared to pay UK designer wage rates even if customers might be prepared to pay more – they don’t want to have to make a more difficult sale based on sentiment. Where do we excel? We have the best jewellery design universities and, as a consequence, the best designers in the world. Designers like Stephen Webster and Shaun Leane are world class. Tomasz Donocik came back from the Las Vegas Couture show in 2013 with the Best Diamond Jewellery award and the Best Newcomer award. Go to the top degree shows and see that the universities are producing the very finest designers; the world knows this and sends their best to be taught here. They are learning design, technique and branding from us and they have significant resources behind them. I predict that in 10 years time UK-taught Chinese designers will be picking up the major plaudits. We’ve got a small window to grow our own designers into world-class businesses. If we lose this I’m worried that there will be little else left to compete for.

The Voice of the Industry 53

| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs October 24th – 26th: The Gemworld, The Munich Show, Germany A trading platform for raw material, coloured precious stones, cut stones and jewellery, from around 350 international exhibitors. https://munichshow.com/en/gemworld 25th – 27th: Euro Trophex 2014, PTA. Amsterdam, Netherlands The largest European trophy, awards and personalisation trade show which is held every other year. www.eurotrophex.com November 6th – 9th: China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair, Shanghai Over 350 exhibitors from 20 countries and regions showing fine, silver, jadeite

and pearl jewellery. The Premier Pavilion offers high-end jewellery from internationallyrenowned exhibitors. www.jewellerynetasia.com

Sales & Exhibitions October Current – 12th: Harrods’ Biennale Exhibition, Harrods, Knightsbridge, London Celebrating the Paris Biennale, the annual luxury art fair, Harrods is transforming its Fine Jewellery Room into an exhibition space showcasing High Jewellery creations. www.harrods.com 17th – 26th: JewelFest, Singapore A prestigious, international mix of jewellery houses including Mouawad, Yoko London, Forevermark and Niessing, as well a showcase for ‘million dollar’ jewel houses. www.singaporejewelfest.com

31st – 6th December: Cycles of Life, Les Eluminures, New York An exhibition of museum-quality rings spanning 3rd century AD to late 19th century, from the private collection of Benjamin Zucker, gem dealer and connoisseur. www.leseluminures.com November 9th – 11th January, 2015: Dazzle, Oxo Tower Wharf, London SW The second year in this riverside venue for this selling exhibition of contemporary designer jewellery. Names include: Yen, Cara Tonkin, Anna Wales, Jenny Llewellyn and Jacqueline Cullen. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com

Handmade in Britain, Emma Farquharson

14th – 16th: Handmade in Britain, Chelsea Old Town Hall, London SW3 The Contemporary Crafts & Design Fair features over 100 UK-based designermakers across jewellery, fashion and interiors, including Sarah Herriot, Sarah Farquharson, Beth Gilmour and Alan Vallis. www.handmadeinbritain.co.uk 14th – 1st March 2015: Indian Encounters, National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh An exhibition exploring the changing relationships between Great Britain and India during the 18th and 19th centuries. Including jewellery once owned by Maharaja Duleep Singh. www.nms.ac.uk

Harrods Biennale Exhibition, Theo Fennell bangle

54 The Jeweller October 2014

25th – 30th: Craft in Focus, RHS Garden Wisley, Woking, Surrey 160 British craftspeople and artists will be displayed in a show which includes jewellery, silverware, glass and ceramics. www.craftinfocus.com

Regular | Bright Lights of the Dark Ages, by Noel Adams (£65, Giles, ACC Distribution) A special assistant in the department of Prehistory and Europe at the British Museum, Dr. Noel Adams has surveyed the Thaw Collection of early medieval ornaments – the pieces that were to created express power and wealth in the new ‘barbarian’ kingdoms which arose after the fall of the Roman Empire. As Eugene Thaw points out in his preface, ‘Dark Ages’ was something of a misnomer, given the richness of styles and innovation that the period threw up – and this scholarly book, featuring over 200 rare artefacts spanning over 1,000 years (including brooches, earrings and, in fact, whole jewellery suites) illustrates this point. As a geologist and art historian, Adams’ interest focuses on the technical aspects of metalwork manufacture, specifically the production of garnet cloisonné – the fundamental aspects of how the pieces were made. Much for a jeweller or designer maker to be intrigued and inspired by. The World’s Most Expensive Watches, by Ariel Adams (£55, hardback, slipcase, Antique Collectors’ Club) Owner and editor of internationally-renowned wrist watch blog (aBlogtoWatch.com), the author Adams has curated a mind-boggling selection of some of the most extravagant, intricate, collectible, decadent and – let’s face it – in some cases downright bonkers timepieces. All at the very top of the price spectrum and all hand-made, the watches featured command big bucks because of their incredible complications, exclusivity, components (parts of the ship itself in Romain Jerome’s ‘steampunk’ style Titantic DNA Day & Night for instance) or provenance (e.g. Albert Einstein’s personal Longines). Adams explains his criteria for choosing the watches featured (starting at $200,000 and rising to Hublot’s $5m Big Bang) and unravels the mysteries of complications and mechanical features. Incredibly lavish and detailed illustrations and illuminating texts accompany each watch. Untamed Encounters by Mimi Lipton (Thames & Hudson, £60) Subtitled ‘Contemporary Jewelry from Extraordinary Gemstones’ this book celebrates the work of a handful of international designers and their collaborations with antique dealer, collector and jewellery lover Mimi Lipton. Through a series of travels across the world the Austrian-born Lipton began to amass a collection of uncut gemstones along with antique pieces of carved amber and jade. This in turn, over the years, led to her working with designers such as Ornella Iannuzzi, Helga Morgensen, Disa Allsopp and – most prolifically – Ram Rijal of Nepal, to create some truly beautiful and unexpected pieces. In each case, the stone is largely left to speak for itself. Each piece is sumptuously photographed and given a full page to itself. If you love sculptural, natural, organic, dramatic jewellery, this one’s for you.

The Voice of the Industry 55

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Last Word This month we offer The Last Word to James Courage, chief executive of Platinum Guild International and chairman of the Responsible Jewellery Council. Personal Profile London-based James Courage is responsible for the PGI’s global jewellery development programmes and worked closely with the PGI teams in launching and developing the platinum jewellery programmes in China and India. Previously he worked for De Beers in South Africa, Hong Kong and London. James was appointed chairman of the RJC in January 2013. Who has been the biggest influence on your life? My wife Tessa – she has always been encouraging, positive and hugely supportive, especially with my frequent absences on long business trips overseas and our two periods of living in South Africa and Hong Kong. Tessa has also helped me understand the attraction and meaning of jewellery to women, something it is sometimes hard for men to grasp. She is also a great enthusiast for precious jewellery. What led you to follow this career? Serendipity – many years ago through a friend, there was an opportunity to work for De Beers and Anglo American and from there to De Beers where I worked for many years, ending with the challenge of setting up and running their marketing office in Hong Kong. It was from there in 1996 that I moved to PGI, a smaller operation, but with some of the same stake-holders and the chance to develop the China platinum jewellery market. What is your mission for PGI and RJC for the next three to five years? For the PGI to continue to work with the mining industry to develop the platinum jewellery markets in China and India – where the volume opportunity is highest

58 The Jeweller October 2014

– while continuing to work with the PGI’s teams in Japan and US to maximise their market share and to bring their learning and insights to the new markets. There are new technologies that I see as being of major potential in the platinum industry and would like to help enable them through the PGI’s network. With the RJC, we have a new CEO starting this September. Based in London – unlike his predecessor – he will be responsible – with the management team and the RJC’s executive – for broadening awareness and understanding the role and value of the RJC to the wider industry. RJC needs to be very conscious of the needs of its members, large and small and across the globe. How would you like to see the unified trade association get behind the work of RJC? RJC seeks to both consult and collaborate with all the key trade associations and having the new CEO based in the UK should enable this to happen on a more regular basis, so all parties can best determine how they can most benefit from each other’s experience and skills and meet the challenges the industry faces. RJC has an MoU with CIBJO, so at the national and international level we work together to combine our strengths, reach and knowledge.

What three words describe you best… in your view AND according to others? Considerate, informed, calm. What aspect of your career would you do differently if you had your time over? I’d try to have persuaded the PGI’s sponsors to let me stay in Hong Kong when I joined. If you could change any element of the jewellery industry, what would it be? Encourage the industry to focus more on the emotion and less on the price. The jewellery industry offers values to the consumer that are sometimes devalued by a more-for-less culture. If the consumer – often buying for an emotional reason – understands and appreciates the talent, skills and unique properties of the rare precious materials that go into the making of jewellery, they get that the price represents real value, especially over time. If you could go back in time, what era or moment would you choose? Why? The late 60s – there was a heady freedom and excitement for the younger generation, which did not come with great responsibility or obsessions with the paraphernalia of today. We talked more, there was less pressure and the future looked great. Favourite shopping destination – why? I’m not a great shopper and like to get away from the sameness of the ‘international high street’ so really enjoy the variety of India. What’s your guiltiest pleasure? Roast lamb and a good robust red wine. Tell us something not many people know about you. I have sailed the Atlantic twice – once at the age of 18 and again last year.

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