Jeweller Magazine Sep 13

Jeweller the

Aug/Sept 2013

£7.50

The Voice of The Industry

Incorporating

Gems&Jewellery

Aug/Sept 2013 / Volum e 22 / No. 6

Amazing amber Meteorit e hunting IJL and Mu nich show prev iews

IJL — raising the roof at its Earls Court home for one last time Future Trends — hot styles for 2014 Looking forward to Loughborough

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Jeweller

Contents & Contacts |

the

The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

A U G / S E P T

13

IRV Loughborough Conference

24

Editor’s Letter

5

Rawlinson Speaks Out

6

Industry News

8

Sandra Page outlines the highlights of the greatly

International News

17

anticipated three-day bonanza of talks, seminars

NAG News

18

Member of the Month

22

Education & Training

26

Letters

28

Feature – Cause and Effect

32

Business Support: Legal

34

Brand Profile – SHO Fine Jewellery

62

Business Support: Insurance

64

Antique Jewellery

66

Notebook

70

Display Cabinet

72

Last Word

74

and workshops.

Trend Report 2014

36

Adorn Insight and Swarovski’s Gemvisions offer a look at key style jewellery directions for 2014.

A Grand Finale

40

As IJL makes the final preparations for its last show at Earl’s Court, we present a preview of just a few of the new collections that will be unveiled, as well as the other major highlights at the event.

Aug/Sept 2013 / Volume

22 / No. 6

Gems&Jewellery Looking ahead to Gem-A’s presence at IJL and Gemworld Munich, amazing amber on display in Scotland, meeting the meteorite hunters and more…

Amazing amber Meteorit e hunting IJL and Mu show pre nich views

Jeweller the

Aug/Sept 2013

£7.50

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

The National Association

Sales Director: Ian Francis

of Goldsmiths

Tel: 020 7613 4445

78a Luke Street,

Fax: 020 7729 0143

London EC2A 4XG

ian@jewellers-online.org

Tel: 020 7613 4445

Publishing Enquiries/

www.jewellers-online.org

Classified Advertising:

CEO: Michael Rawlinson

Neil Oakford

michaelr@jewellers-online.org

neil@jewellers-online.org

Editor: Belinda Morris

Contributors:

bmorris@colony.co.uk

Gordon Hamme, Amy Oliver,

Art Director: Ben Page

Sandra Page

The Voice of The Industry

Incorporating

Gems&Jewellery

Aug/Sept

2013 / Volume 22 / No. 6

Amazing

amber Meteorite hunting IJL and Munich show previews

Cover Image IJL — raising the roof at its Earls Court home for one last time Future Trends — hot styles for 2014 Looking forward to Loughborough

In conjunction with International Jewellery London 1st - 4th September 2013, Earls Court 2, London www.jewellerylondon.com

ben@jewellers-online.org The NAG is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller.

Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

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Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

It’s important when considering this trend however, not to trip too far the wrong way down memory lane. While references to past eras… play a pivotal role, the trick is to update them for a contemporary audience.

might be just two days away from my annual trip to the sun (hurrah!) but, as I write this,

I

my mind – as you might expect – is preoccupied with next month’s IJL show. Partly this is

to do with the planning involved ahead of the four-day event, but actually it’s largely due to my having spent the last four weeks or so putting together a preview for the show.

I know that I think this every August as I gather together the information on, and images of, the new collections yet to be unveiled, but really, this year there seems to be more than ever. More first-time exhibitors, more new brands and concepts, more colour, more glamour, more excitement… it’s all building up to be one big, buzzy bonanza! Add to this mix the fact that this is IJL’s final fling at Earls Court before the move next year to Olympia down the road... I feel fireworks coming on. Our Grand Finale feature on page 40 surely gives weight to my theory.

Of course IJL wouldn’t be the show it is without the jam-packed schedule of seminars, one of the highlights of which is the presentation on catwalk-inspired trends by the team

Page 36

Adorn Insight. As a teaser to this talk we have asked the market intelligence gatherers to reveal a few key jewellery style predictions for the year ahead. These, together with an overview of directions from Swarovski Gemvisions, form the Future Trends feature on page 36 which offers food for thought for those who recognise the value of a little fashion forwardthinking when it comes to making buying decisions – that will be all of you then!

If all the excitement of the show leaves you with the need for a breather at any point over the four days, please do come along to the NAG stand (I109), put your feet up, have a drink and meet the team.

An ever-popular sector of the show is the Design Gallery with the array of designer names for which the UK jewellery market is justifiably renowned.

P.S. Make certain to come and say hello to The Jeweller team who will be on the NAG stand on Monday 2nd September between 2.30-3.30pm.

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 40

The Voice of the Industry 5

| Comment

Rawlinson

speaks out Here we are – standing in new and exciting times! The NAG’s CEO Michael Rawlinson reports on a future development being mooted for the Association, as well as how the NAG helps members to help themselves. embers of the NAG will soon have the opportunity to decide on an historic change for the Association. All are invited to a special meeting on 3rd September to consider new rules (The Articles of Association) which, if passed, will allow companies that sell jewellery without a shop premises and appropriate display window to apply for full membership.

These retailers will no longer be considered lesser members; this change, if approved, will recognise and accept that jewellery can be sold responsibly and appropriately in new ways that are different from the traditional past. Members will be taking a bold step which means embracing a very positive change. If you are able, please come along to the meeting, which is being held at Earls Court during IJL, and show your positive support and commitment to ensuring the future prosperity of the Association.

Another recent, significant and historic change was the passing of The Marriage

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6 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

(Same Sex Couples) Bill. Receiving Royal Assent on 17th July the law will come into effect in the summer of 2014. I am sure, despite the objections of some, that this change in the law will have a positive effect on both our society and our sector. Certainly we all look forward to an increase in the sales of engagement and wedding rings.

I hope, despite potential reservations and concerns, members will wholeheartedly support both changes.

During July I had the immense pleasure and privilege to see many members and non-members in their own shops as I visited the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter, the Brighton Lanes, and Leicester and Norwich city centres. Diversity ruled here, with every shop playing to its strengths and satisfying its segment of the market. Even though there was some crossover and competition in places, individuality of products, price points, presentation styles, business brands

It was also great to see how shop staff would refer potential customers to another store… accepting that it was better that the customer left their shop feeling that they have been treated well, rather than rejected and ignored.

Many will know of the importance and strength of the pink pound, so my hope is that you will be able to enjoy the fruits of this new opportunity.

Two very different examples of change, united under a common goal that embraces inclusivity and supports diversity.

and approaches to the customer shows that there is an opportunity for all business types to make a success in our sector.

It was also great to see how shop staff would refer potential customers to another store if they really couldn’t meet their needs, accepting that it was better that the

Comment | customer left their shop feeling that they have been treated well, rather than rejected and ignored. One shop owner also took the time to show me an online retail site that was selling diamonds and gemstones. I always thought there might be an upper limit to what people were willing to spend online so I was very surprised to see prices very close to £100,000 for a single diamond. I am pleased to say that the owners of the shops I visited knew their market position and their customer base. Is this by experience, training or trial and error? Probably a mixture of all three!

The NAG really wants to help its members to run their businesses with confidence and supported by the right tools and techniques.

Undertaking a full market evaluation, leading to a well thought out and reasoned marketing plan might be something you have never thought of doing, preferring to work by your own intuition?

I’m surprised at the number of members I spoke to during my city tours who didn’t know the Executive Development Forum existed, or, if they were aware of it, they didn’t know what it did. Well it exists to support, guide and train owners and senior managers in how to make the most of their businesses; not in a prescriptive or condescending way but though collaboration, guidance and mentoring by the EDF facilitator and other group members who are also owners.

In addition to the more structured role of the EDF, members also share data and ideas to improve their businesses. These ideas can often lead to significant savings. One group member emailed me last week to tell me that he had just secured a new rate on a business service contract that would save him the equivalent of his annual EDF membership fee! That’s nearly £2,000 saved through just one idea generated from the group meetings. The groups meet throughout the year and bring together people from different parts of the country, so you don’t need to worry that another owner from just down the road will be listening to the same ideas as you.

For more information on the EDF, please contact Amanda White at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org Finally, the NAG team will be out in full force at the IJL show at Earls Court from 1st-4th September. We hope that you will be able to come along to our stand and say hello, and perhaps spend a little time discovering how the Association might serve and support you more. Our teams from Education, Policy and Communications, the Design Service, The Jeweller, the Institute of Registered Valuers and of course Membership will be on hand to answer all of your questions, and maybe help you to sign up to a new service or product. I’m looking forward to my first IJL, the last exhibition at Earls Court before it moves to Olympia, so let’s celebrate with a party and go out with a bang! Happy hunting for that something special for the Christmas window…

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

IJL’s final Earls Court show is set to impress

eing the last show at Earls Court before it moves to its new home at Olympia next year, this year’s International Jewellery London promises to be a particularly spectacular event. As always the showcase focus of IJL is the central aisle – the Boulevard.

Leading down to the Boulvard Bar and Runway, it hosts many of the best names at the show and this year there is a marked emphasis on fine jewellery and luxury.

Among the newcomers along the stylish avenue is high end US brand Christopher

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Designs – known for its patented diamond cut – which is entering the UK market for the first time. Looking for “new partners around the world” is another IJL first-timer Djula by Alexandre Corrot of Paris, whose collection features diamonds and precious stones set in white, yellow, rose and black gold. Other new additions to the Boulevard include India’s fine jewellery house Amrapali which will be showing gold and gemstone pieces and the silver Tribe collection and top Australian brand Georgini.

As always IJL will be offering an impressive line-up of seminars covering everything from the state of the diamond industry to a review of the watch market (see the IJL Preview on p40 for more and visit jewellerylondon.com for the full schedule). This year there will be a talk on taking inspiration from the catwalks given

by IJL’s new trend partners Adorn Insight.

To assist visitors, IJL will once again run a complimentary return bus service to the Earls Court show, from both London’s Hatton Garden and the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter. Event director Sam Willoughby commented: “We understand that independent retailers generally work either alone or with a very small staff. So when it comes to taking time out to refresh their stock, offering time management is key. This is why we have chosen to run the service from Birmingham on a Sunday, when independents generally shut up shop and have the time to travel down to London. We are also pleased to announce that the initiative has the continued support of the NAG.” The bus services will depart from the Hatton Garden junction with Greville Street on Sunday 1st September and Monday 2nd September at 9.30am and will return from the show, departing at 6pm. In Birmingham the service will depart from Vyse Street, in the heart of Jewellery Quarter, leaving at 9am on Sunday 1st September and returning that evening with the departure from London, also at 6pm.

Seats on the buses will be reserved on a first come, first booked basis. To reserve a seat email: annika.franklin@reedexpo.co.uk or call 020 8910 7968.

Silver and platinum hallmarking rise he hallmarking figures for July 2013, from all the UK assay offices, showed that there was ‘a promising’ increase of 7.1 per cent in the number of silver articles hallmarked and platinum articles increased by 13.3 per cent. These figures are in the light of a small increase of 0.9 per cent in the number of articles overall hallmarked for the month of July. In the same month the number of gold articles

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8 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

was down 5.9 percent and palladium dropped 20.9 per cent.

“The hallmarking numbers for July 2013 were encouraging although something of a mixed bag, with platinum and silver showing solid increases but gold and palladium in retreat. Ironically the ups and downs balanced each other out overall, so showing a slight increase in the total number of articles hallmarked,” remarked Michael Allchin, CE

and Assay Master of The Birmingham Assay Office, which released the figures.

“Considering that the hallmarking numbers for the second quarter of the year ending June 2013 were down 13.8 per cent on 2012, an increase of any amount is good to see. The gold price has continued to be volatile and unpredictable which is creating continued uncertainty for retail jewellers buying in the market,” he added.

Industry News |

Queen’s Coronation jewels on view o mark the 60th anniversary of the Coronation of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth ll a special exhibition at Buckingham Palace will be staged over summer. Between now and 29th September visitors will have the chance to view un unprecedented array of dress, uniform and robes worn for the historic event along with a number of jewels worn by The Queen on the day.

These pieces include the Diamond Diadem which Her Majesty wore for the journey from Buckingham Palace to Westminster Abbey – it was designed and made by royal jewellers and goldsmiths Rundell, Bridge and Rundell for George lV to wear at his coronation in 1821. Also on display will be the diamond Coronation Necklace and Earrings made for Queen Victoria in 1858 by R & S Garrard & Co.

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S N I P P E T S Indian diamond industry supports World Diamond Mark The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council and the Bharat Diamond Bourse have confirmed their support for the implementation of the World Diamond ® Mark (WDM) programme, to ensure the health and future growth of the global diamond jewellery sector. The WDM aims to unite the players in the diamond pipeline, and provide a sense of confidence among the consumers that the diamonds they are buying are legitimate.

Raw Pearls sponsors award

Young designers lead trend for recycled silver he demand for recycled silver is growing quickly, according to Capella manufacturing which is one of the UK’s leading precious metal refiners and bullion dealers. According to managing director Kevin Bloor, the jewellery trade – young designers in particular – is playing an increasingly important role in the company’s development.

Bloor said: “The majority of Capella’s new silver customers want recycled metal. Young jewellers are particularly keen to work with recycled silver, as are those in the expanding bespoke jewellery sector. These groups of customers are also largely responsible for the growth in demand for Capella’s Fairtrade silver.

“In Capella’s experience, demand for recycled silver is quickly growing, although this growth is taking place in a relatively small area of the market. Major jewellery labels have yet to demonstrate a noticeable increase in interest, possibly because they consider recycled silver to be a prohibitively expensive option or have yet to appreciate the marketability of the product,” he added.

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White gold diamond eyewear launched at Coronation Festival er Majesty, The Queen’s Coronation Festival at Buckingham Palace last month saw the launch of a new, especially commissioned, piece of eyewear by the Royal Warrant holder, Roger Pope & Partners.

To honour the 60th anniversary of The Queen’s Coronation, the London optician commissioned a piece of fine eyewear, worth £24,000 which was manufactured by hand, by master goldsmiths. The frame is crafted from 18ct Greenlandic white gold, set with 60 pink diamonds.

“Embracing aspects of the Queen’s realm, the diamonds were sourced from the Argyle Diamond Mine in Western Australia. Extremely rare, pink diamonds comprise just 0.03 per cent of the world diamond output,” said optician, Roger Pope of Cavendish Street, London.

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Raw Pearls is to sponsor a new award for pearl design at the Goldsmiths Craft and Design Council awards in 2014. The award will seek to encourage and reward the innovative use of pearls within contemporary fine jewellery design. The winning entrant will receive a prize of £1,000 and will have showcased this classic gem in a modern style and celebrated its use as a fashion relevant material. The awards will formally launch at IJL. Tivon launches Facebook competition Tivon Fine Jewellery has launched a design competition on Facebook. Open to amateur or professional designers as well as to any jewellery-loving member of the public, participants must submit an original design via FB and the winner will have their design created by Tivon, showcased at several international shows and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to a charity of their choice. For further details visit: www.facebook.com/TivonFineJewellery Wongs’ Royal baby shower While the country held its breath for the arrival of the third in line to the throne, Wongs Jewellers in Liverpool held a charity baby shower to celebrate the impending birth. Guests, including Hollyoaks actress Alex Fletcher, were invited to a Champagne Afternoon Tea and asked to bring along an item of baby clothing to the value of £10 which were given to Forum Housing Association which provides accommodation for vulnerable young adults.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Glasgow student wins WB prize lasgow School of Art student Hamish Dobbie has won the Weston Beamor Prize at this year’s New Designers exhibition which took place last month at London’s Business Design Centre. The exhibition provides a showcase for degree work by the best of the best art students drawn from universities and colleges throughout the UK. Dobbie, who studied for a BA Hons degree in Jewellery Design and Silversmithing, won his award for the most innovative use of Computer Aided Design (CAD) rapid prototyping and the use of cast pieces incorporating traditional finishing techniques.

He receives a £1,000 cash prize and the chance to undertake a week of work experience with WB at its high-tech production facility in Birmingham.

“Although CAD is much used in jewellery making, it is as yet relatively rare in silversmithing and we were very excited by how Hamish had used it to embellish his silver objects, particularly in respect of the hexagonal forms used in his series of spoons based on Fingal’s Cave,” commented Glen Day, head of business development at WB.

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Call for designer award entries ntries are now being accepted for the Sixth Annual Centurion Emerging Designer Competition. Two winners will receive a showcase and exhibit space at the Centurion Scottsdale show in Arizona, slated for 1st – 5th February 2014. The competition, sponsored again this year by jewellery manufacturer and wholesale distributor Stuller, is open to any jewellery designer who has never before exhibited in a US fine jewellery trade show.

The competition is open to all designers, regardless of experience, formal training or background in jewellery design, but entrants must show lines or one-of-a-kind designs that are suitable for a luxury jewellery store environment and be capable of both exhibiting at a trade show and fulfilling any wholesale orders received at the show. Deadline for entry is 30th September, 2013. Entrants are required to submit up to three images of finished jewellery; no renderings or CAD drawings will be accepted. For more information and to access the entry form visit: www.h2consult.com/Centurion_2014_Emerging_Designers_Form.pdf

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Theo Fennell agrees cash offer he independent directors of British jeweller Theo Fennell have reached an agreement on the terms of a recommended cash offer, with a share alternative, made by Mirfield 1964 plc.

As part of the acquisition, Theo Fennell and Alasdair Hadden-Paton will remain as directors of the company and will also be appointed to the board of Mirfield (a company set up for the acquisition). All rights to the name Theo Fennell will be handed over to Mirfield.

Theo Fennell, Founder and Creative Director of Theo Fennell plc, said: “This is an excellent opportunity for the business. With the additional capital and management expertise of Mirfield we will be able to build an even stronger business and I am personally delighted that I will continue to play a central role for Theo Fennell plc.”

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10 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

S N I P P E T S Gemvision prize awarded This year’s Gemvision Matrix Award, given in partnership with the School of Jewellery at Birmingham City University (BCU), has been presented to jewellery and silversmithing graduate Hannah Kimber.

The annual award is open to students on the School’s BA (Hons) Design for Industry one-year top-up degree level course. It recognises outstanding achievement using Matrix, based on best 3D rendering, technical skills and overall design. The judges were impressed by Kimber’s arabesque-inspired rings and pendants.

Strong start for watch sales The early signs for 2013 looked quietly positive for the watch industry, according to research company GfK. Sales value of watches in the UK in Q1 of 2013, saw growth up 5.9 per cent compared to 2012, while sales in Q2 have been even more encouraging with value growth of 9.7 per cent. Overall sales in the first six months of 2013 have been up in value by 8.9 per cent, an increase worth £36.3 million. If the remainder of 2013 continues to see sales grow at this rate, the value of the total market could increase by over £80 million.

Charity success for Johnsons Family-run NAG member Johnsons Jewellers of Nuneaton raised £700 for charity last month. Valued customers and special guests were invited to join the company for dinner at Nuneaton’s Wing Wah restaurant and during the evening funds were raised for the Mary Ann Evans Hospice. Guests also had the chance to purchase jewellery

by Mi Moneda, Ti Sento and The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin. Following a major refurbishment in 2010 Johnsons has just launched a new website.

UK distributor for Omas pens John Hall, who owns Write Here, an award-winning independent pen shop in Shrewsbury town centre, is to be a national distributor for OMAS pens. The Italian OMAS range of writing instruments, fountain pens and related luxury goods was founded in 1925 and is regarded as one of the world’s premium brands in this sector.

Would you like to comment?

Call us on 0207 405 0009 or visit www.thmarch.co.uk

T.H. March Chartered Insurance Brokers – Protecting the Jewellery Industry Since 1887 There are some things in life you just can’t put a value on because they are priceless.

That is how we feel about our relationship with the UK jewellery industry.

Our bond of mutual trust was forged more than 125 years ago and with each passing year it has strengthened.

When you talk to us you know we’ll always listen and respond by putting all our knowledge and expertise at your disposal.

We understand how you feel about the business you are in because we too are driven by an unwavering passion for the UK’s vibrant jewellery industry.

Thank you for continuing to put your faith in us.

T.H. March – Chartered Insurance Brokers, a title you can trust.

“ We are proud to be the appointed broker to the jewellery industry’s premier trade associations.”

Neil McFarlane ACII Chartered Insurance Broker Managing Director

WAWD/NRM/IJL/2013

Visit us at IJL 2013 where we’ll be demonstrating some innovative ideas designed to help jewellers increase earnings and improve customer retention figures. Look out for us on stand i108

Industry News |

DVK supporting debut jewellery line ulti-award winning entrepreneur Deepak Kuntawala, the founder of DVK – a boutique private equity and commodity trading company – has pledged his ongoing support to promote and nurture British entrepreneurship by partnering the launch of bespoke jewellery designer Julia Cameron’s debut collection. The collaboration also marked DVK’s foray into the arena of luxury commodities.

Cameron’s eclectic designs draw inspiration from India, as her great-great-great-grandmother was the avant-garde, trailblazing British photographer Julia Margaret Cameron, who was born in Calcutta during the Colonial era. Julia Cameron has continued her family’s affinity with the country by sourcing her gem stones from India and often has her jewellery pieces handcrafted there.

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Pawnbroking still growing he latest figures from the National Pawnbrokers Association (NPA) show that the pawnbroking industry grew by 8 per cent last year, outstripping performance in most other business sectors, despite the falling price of gold. There are now 2,144 pawnbrokers in the UK operating in a market worth £865 million.

The pace of growth has slowed compared with recent years – down from 15 per cent in 2011/12. This is primarily due to a drop in gold prices, which have fallen by 20 per cent over the same period. However, lending to businesses remains strong as the pressure continues on those who cannot access bank loans. The average loan to businesses is £2,000 to £3,000 and is now typically used to make short term payment to creditors or staff rather than for business development.

More jewellers are turning to pawnbroking as they look to expand the services they offer in these difficult times – over the last 12 months the NPA has seen the number of jewellers moving into the pawnbroking industry double compared to the previous period.

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Tomasz Donocik scoops two awards at Couture, Las Vegas ondon-based jewellery designer, Tomasz Donocik, is launching his new collection at IJL next month in the wake of scooping two prestigious awards at the international jewellery show, Couture, in Las Vegas. Polish-born, Donocik, known for his avant-garde and edgy jewellery, won top prize in both the ‘Diamond jewellery over $20,000’ and ‘Debut’ categories for his ‘Courtship of the Hornbill’ ring (pictured).

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S N I P P E T S Graduate designers chosen for F Hinds’ roadshow Three Holts Academy graduate jewellery designers have each created exclusive collections to be showcased during F Hinds’ travelling store roadshow, sold in store and via the retailer’s website, available until the end of December 2013. The winners are Gina Melosi, Nichola Mitches and Eva Reiser. The competition was launched early last year to encourage students to create a suite of jewellery which was commercially congruent with the high street jeweller.

David Marshall opens store With an aim to reach a wider, more international audience, British master craftsman David Marshall has opened his first London store under his own brand David Marshall London in Mayfair. The new store, on 43 Davies Street, Mayfair, opposite Claridge’s Hotel, showcases his fine jewellery and provides a bespoke jewellery design service in a retail space which comprises two floors in an area over 800 square feet.

Hatton Garden sees new diamond boutique Fine jewellery designer Savvy & Sand has opened a shop in Hatton Garden with the aim of bringing ‘Hollywood glamour’ to the renowned street. As well as selling its own staple collection, Heirloom 1932, Savvy & Sand is collaborating with US diamond brands Danhov and Verragio which are making their European debuts within the store. Savvy & Sand was founded in London in 1932 and is now in its fourth generation.

HG jeweller supports Lord Mayor’s Appeal Hatton Garden jeweller Davril Jewels will present a gold and diamond ‘Symphony’ necklace for auction at a ‘Best of British’ gala celebration hosted by the Lord Mayor of London in September. The evening will raise money for the Lord Mayor’s Appeal which supports a number of causes including the City Music Foundation, a new charity established to support talented young musicians in the early stages of their careers. Davril’s necklace features a 1ct briolette diamond crafted ‘en tremblant’.

The Voice of the Industry 13

| Industry News

New look for Gecko’s Fred Bennett brand ewellery wholesaler Gecko, now part of the Weston Beamor Group, is introducing a fresh new identity for the men’s Fred Bennett brand. The new look for pendants, wristwear and cufflinks, is brought together by a ‘journey of style’ model shoot, together with an understated colour palette of royal blues, earthy greens and burnt orange, all used throughout to complete the re-brand.

Autumn/winter brings a heavy-duty approach, from pieces emblazoned with rugged texture and directional patterns, to adventurous yet wearable colours and mixed metals. The brand will also be introducing an exclusive gift set ready for Christmas, which includes a Fred Bennett jewellery case that holds a selection of classic designs in stainless steel. This new offering enables shoppers to give a complete look at an affordable price.

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Euro Pearls’ most exclusive brand Yoko London is one of the few contemporary pearl brands to be participating in the forthcoming V&A exhibition, Pearls. Held in collaboration with the Qatar Museum Authority, the exhibition, which explores the history of pearls, opens on 21st September 2013 and a selection of Yoko London’s bold, modern designs will be on show.

Yoko uses the highest quality AAA and AA pearls, together with VS quality diamonds, for pieces that are spectacular in their richness. Most of the pieces in the collection are handmade and the family-run company specialises in rare, natural coloured pearls – South Sea pearls in particular. Euro Pearls will be exhibiting on the Boulevard at IJL (stand G41).

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Yoko London features in Pearls

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International News |

Gemfields reports a ‘sparkling’ year

S N I P P E T S Cate Blanchett chooses Van Cleef & Arpels

he coloured stone producer Gemfields which focusses on ethically-produced Zambian emeralds, posted a ‘strong end to a transformational year’ earlier this month.

A highlight, it revealed, was its latest auction of higher quality emeralds, held in the Zambian capital Lusaka, which brought in revenues of US$31.5mln, the second highest total ever for an auction of its kind. It followed a sale of lower quality stones in April, which netted US$15.2mln.

In addition, quarterly production from its Kagem mine (the world’s largest emerald mine) was 8.9 million carats, a rise of 42 per cent from last year. The average grade for the year increased 38 per cent to 283 carats per tonne. Earlier this year Gemfields acquired the Fabergé name to become a vertically integrated miner and seller of coloured stones.

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Massive reward for stolen jewels nsurers Lloyd's of London is offering a $1.3 million reward for information leading to the recovery of jewels stolen from the Carlton Hotel in Cannes last month which were worth an estimated €103 million. The jewels belonged to Israeli billionaire Lev Leviev.

“A reward of up to €1,000,000 pro rata is offered to the first person who provides information which leads to recovery of the goods. The offer is subject to certain conditions,” said a spokesperson from Lloyds on 6th August. “Persons with specific information should contact SW Associates on 0033 610950564 or send an email to: reward1millionE@gmail.com” The robbery, which took place in broad daylight on 28th July, is one of the world’s biggest ever jewellery thefts. Armed with a semi-automatic pistol, the robber stole jewellery items that were part of an exhibition put on by Leviev. Police said that the pieces he stole included ‘rings, pendants, and earrings incrusted with diamonds.’

The exhibition was held in a wing of the hotel with direct access to the street and police said they had not been alerted that it was taking place. Prosecutors said the robber entered the exhibition room through a French window that opened onto a terrace, which itself looks onto Cannes’ popular Croisette avenue.

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Canadian ethical diamonds launched he CMJ has launched an ethically-sourced brand of Canadian diamonds in partnership with the Martin Ross Group of Canada. Artic Circle was unveiled at the CMJ’s trade event in Birmingham earlier this month and is exclusive to members of the CMJ. “I have been on the search for a fully audited and clean supply chain from mine to market since I first joined the jewellery industry five years ago,” said CMJ’s chief executive Willie Hamilton. “I was looking for a diamond product that was clean in its ethics and clean in its traceability. This is not merely a ‘Fair Trade’ product range, but a range of jewellery that is clean in source, handled within the territory it was sourced from and has full certification right through to the point of purchase.” The line has been commercially designed and priced for the UK market and each diamond used has been given a unique identity number, which is laser-etched on the stone’s girdle with a maple leaf.

The product designs and branding of Arctic Circle have been developed through a partnership with the Martin Ross Group, CIBJO and a focus group of retail and gemmological experts from retailers Green+Benz, Wakefields and TH Baker.

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To complement her Balenciaga dress while on the red carpet, Hollywood actress Cate Blanchett chose to wear jewellery by French house Van Cleef & Arpels. At the New York premier of Woody Allen’s Blue Jasmine last month. She wore white gold and diamond ‘Socrate’ earrings and a Between the Finger ring.

Diamond prices fall Certified polished diamond prices fell in July, according to Rapaport’s Monthly Report.

China’s economic slowdown significantly reduced diamond demand resulting in overstocked retail inventories. India’s jewellery market plummeted due to the weak rupee and government programmes intended to curb gold consumption and jewellery demand. The only bright spot has been the US, where demand has been steady but selective.

New innovation by U-Boat talian watch brand U-Boat by Italo Fontana has launched a new version of the Chimera model with an added innovation.

The 43mm chunky timepiece, which comes with a new range of straps, features a patented system for the retrieval of the watch crown. The sculpted pusher can be depressed to eject the inner crown from its recessed position, easing the adjustment for both date and time.

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| NAG News

Progress and policy changes at the NAG he spiritual guru Mahatma Gandhi once said that “you must be the change you wish to see in the world”, and we at the NAG are delighted to have recruited our new communications and policy team that will help evolve and enhance all NAG communications and outreach with members.

Key changes that are in progress currently include a new website for the Association, an update of the logo and branding, and a further investment in social media/PR for news, events and general member communication.

The NAG is currently in the process of changing the main website with a leading brand agency, in order to update all key information on the site with improved links, functionality and buttons for social media.

Following on from the successful reception of the new NAG education website it is hoped that this update of the main website

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will encourage further traffic and usage from members and non-members alike and represent a hub for all industry queries, news and information.

Alongside these website changes the NAG is also reviewing the current branding and logos across all channels to update the image of the Association, while still upholding the important heritage and tradition of the organisation since 1894.

In addition, our new press and PR officer, Caner Daywood, is refreshing all NAG’s social media content and has made some important changes to the social media structure of the organisation. The Facebook page for the NAG (Jewellersonline) will represent the home for industry images, promotional material and general updates with a cleaner and more consistent frequency of posts. Also the NAG has now got two accounts on Twitter to allow for a more distinct voice across the platform

Jacobs of Reading shortlisted for two local retail awards e are delighted to announce that one of our faithful members, Jacobs of Reading, has been shortlisted for two categories in the fourth annual Reading Retail Awards.

The awards help to promote outstanding retailing and service in the Reading region and from over 300 nominations Jacobs earned its recognition in two categories: the self-nominated “Independent Retailer of the Year” and in the customer voted “Shop I can’t Live Without”.

Award-winning Jacobs of Reading was established in 1948 and is one of Berkshire’s leading independent jewellers. Offering jewellery and watches from luxury designers including Cartier, Bremont and Bvlgari; superior presentation pieces and with excellent levels of customer service as well as a skilled on-site workshop and the only in-house CAD bespoke service in the

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18 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

immediate area, it is clear why Jacobs is a truly deserving candidate for the awards.

Owner, Adam Jacobs, commented: “It’s a wonderful achievement to be nominated in two categories in these important local awards. We’re grateful to our customers

with @NAG_NEWS representing an account just for ethics, news and policy while trends and all other issues will be posted on our main account @NAG_UK. We are pleased to announce that the NAG is also on Instagram (@NAG_UK) so be sure to follow us.

If you have any queries on social media, PR or communications, would just like to understand more about what to do, or even simply fancy chatting to us get in touch at: pressenquiries@jewellers-online.org.

The NAG’s updated Facebook page

without whom we wouldn’t be here and also to my team who day in, day out make our shop a great place to be. We work with some superb suppliers and organisations within the watch and jewellery industry: it shows there are terrific products and services available when you look them out.

It’s especially pleasing that so many of the initiatives we have put in such as the NAG Gold Standard, our own in house CAD designer and numerous synchronised online and offline marketing initiatives have been recognised.”

Awards judge and general manager at The Oracle Shopping Centre said: “As a major sponsor of the Reading Retail Awards, alongside the Broad Street Mall, we were hugely impressed with many of the nominations… Retail is a very important element of the local economy, so it's great to see its high achievers being rewarded for all their hard work.”

The winners of the awards will be announced at a gala dinner in Reading’s Hilton Hotel on 7th September and we wish Adam and his team the best of luck.

NAG News |

International Jewellery London nternational Jewellery London (IJL) 2013 (1st-4th September), which takes place for the last time at Earl’s Court, is arguably the biggest and most important event on the NAG calendar and we are delighted that our long history with IJL is continuing into its 57th year.

Taking place across four exciting days from Sunday 1st September IJL will provide the perfect opportunity to listen to inspirational seminars, watch an impressive runway show and explore the talents and achievements of fresh, young designers in the industry as well as the established home-grown and international brands.

With unmissable free seminars on the ‘state of the diamond industry’, ‘getting the right press coverage’ and ‘the sustainability of the jewellery industry’ to name just a few, this show promises to highlight and tackle the important issues currently facing jewellers across the UK and internationally. Prominent designers in the industry such as Dinny Hall, Fei Lui and many other international names will be available throughout the four days showcasing their pieces.

As a returning sponsor, which has previously hosted the show, the NAG – the Luke Street team as well as many external NAG members – will be on hand every day of the show outlining and promoting the benefits of membership as well as helping with any issues you may be facing. The theme for the NAG space (stand I109) seeks to elaborate on our drive for progress and change by drawing on the key strap line: ‘Building the jewellery industry of the future since 1894’.

The National Association of Goldsmiths has always sought to serve and support the jewellery industry and during the IJL event we will be promoting our new services and products to offer to new and existing members. This will include our newest member benefit, the NAG Design Service, where members will be given the opportunity to have bespoke jewellery pieces designed for them by an eminent leader in the field. In addition our educational courses will be detailed by representatives from the Luke Street education department.

The NAG’s agenda for the show will feature a drinks reception every day, a prize draw with the chance to win a luxury getaway and will include exclusive presentations of the NAG Design Service, The Jeweller and from other sectors of the Luke Street team.

With thousands of attendees across the industry sharing the latest trends, news and products we welcome you to come find us at stand I109 or if you would like further information please feel free to tweet us @NAG_UK or email: communications@jewellers-online.org To find out more about how you can attend the IJL for free visit: www.jewellerylondon.com or call: 0845 218 6030.

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EGM to take place at IJL

New Member Applications To ensure that NAG Members are aware of new applications for NAG Membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amanda Reavell on 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amanda@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Affiliate Applications The Jewellery Exchange Ltd, Stirling

Alumni Associate Applications Damian Miles, Okehampton Marc Gillings, Birmingham

Design Day success with Yasmin Moss he NAG’s Design Service is one of the most recent member benefits offered to NAG members, allowing jewellery retailers the opportunity to have bespoke pieces designed for them on the spot and also offers the possibility to have relevant literature created too if needed.

Our design professional, Yasmin Moss, is at hand to help you design your own unique item of jewellery either using an existing piece or sketch, or by simply creating a new truly bespoke piece which will be exclusive to your business.

Most recently, at Jonathan Lambert’s own store in Sudbury, Yasmin hosted a successful Design Day with several members dropping in and designing some fantastic pieces to take away. Spending time with each client, tailoring the service to their needs, Yasmin is able to make the merest idea a reality within a couple of weeks.

To make use of this service or to learn more about it please get in touch with Yasmin at: yasmin@ymjewellery.com or email us at: communications@jewellers-online.org

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he NAG will also be hosting an Extraordinary General Meeting during IJL on Tuesday 3rd September at 4:30pm at the Victoria Suite in Earls Court Exhibition Centre, to examine and discuss membership.

It is hoped that the proposed changes will allow for streamlining of membership and to broaden the categories. In line with these changes full members can be any business that retails jewellery (physical or online) and non-voting members can be individuals or corporations associated with the jewellery trade.

Be sure to have your voice heard on this important issue.

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| NAG News

Nicholas Major appointed a Freeman icholas Major has had an enduring relationship with the National Association of Goldsmiths and we are delighted to announce that he has recently been appointed a Freeman of the City and the Goldsmiths’ Company.

Nicholas is a director of William Major & Sons (jewellers for four generations) and joined the family business in 1965. He has been directly involved with the NAG since 1998, so there is no doubt that Nicholas is an expert in the industry with vast knowledge and experience as well as several awards and qualifications in the sector.

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Nicholas also founded Insurance Replacement Services, which specialises in the replacement and assessment of stolen items of jewellery throughout the UK, and Rodania UK, which was the sole importer and distributor of Rodania Swiss watches.

Nicholas commented: “I originally wanted to become more involved with the NAG as I was concerned about the replacement of jewellery and valuations. Little did I realise how this would evolve and how much time it would take! However, the outcome was well worth all the effort as we now have the Institute of Registered Valuers and I

feel proud to have been involved with its conception. Similarly I was most privileged to have recently been the Association’s chairman and I hope I did justice to the role during my tenure.”

Nicholas reflected on his new appointment saying: “I feel very privileged to have become a Freeman of the City and the Goldsmiths’ Company, both of which are marvellous institutions. Naturally the latter and the NAG are inextricably linked as we both provide the most valuable services to the jewellery industry and to the general public.”

NAG Seminars – Autumn 2013 Essential Display One day course London, Wednesday 2nd October The Essential Display course discovers the secrets of enticing windows and explores what makes customers tick when looking at visual displays. With often only a few seconds to spare we need to understand consumer thinking and create magical displays to grab customer attention and create a sale.

What will be covered: • The jewellery shopping experience • The basic rules of engagement – how to attract the customer to the window and then keep them there • How to use a window as a marketing and sales tool.

Outline of the day: • Theory session to build knowledge and understanding • Two practical hands-on sessions where attendees will create displays that relate to different buying occasions • Evaluation session – as a group we’ll discuss the problems that many retailers have relating to the display of so many brands and look at how to make the customer aware of the services as well as the goods that are offer in a store Our goal is to give each student the confidence to create very focussed ‘free displays’ in their own stores that sell both products and services. However, the real

20 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

learning takes place when each student returns to their own store and applies what they have learnt.

Diamonds and Diamond Grading Intermediate Two-day course London, Tuesday and Wednesday the 15th /16th October This two-day seminar extends the content of Diamonds and Diamond Grading: An Introduction and will be of interest to those retailers and valuers who obtained the diamond grading skills some time ago.

The course can act as a step up or a useful refresher.

Attendees will: • Learn how the brightness, fire and scintillation of diamonds are affected by proportions, symmetry and other factors • Learn about diamonds of various ‘makes’ or cut grades • Learn how to precisely gauge and calculate carat weight and assess the colour and clarity of diamonds • Examine and discuss the latest diamond treatments and gem quality synthetic diamonds • Review the anatomy of a diamond ‘certificate’ • Review diamond price lists and consumer confidence.

Developing Sales Skills One-day course London, Tuesday 8th October Responding to feedback from our members, the NAG, together with Virada Training, is offering this one-day sales skills training. This course covers a variety of topics, and focusses on real life everyday sales situations to unlock potential and help your business stand out from the crowd.

What will be covered: • Manage customer interaction – engaging your customer • Establish customer needs – getting the complete picture • Presenting – the buying experience • Decision-making and feedback • Reassuring the customer – dealing with objections • Closing – acting on buying signals and leaving the customer with a good lasting impression For further information on any of these courses please contact Amanda White at the NAG on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

| NAG News

NAG Member of the Month

Brian Newman and his wife Olive are presented with their award by the NAG’s Amanda Reavell (right)

This month we honour a very special jeweller – A James of Saffron Walden which has been an NAG member for 70 years.

Last month, to mark the anniversary, the NAG presented owner Brian Newman MBE with an award and other gifts. Arafa Kumbuka spoke to Mr Newman, who has been a part of the business since 1947 and is a life vice president of the British Horological Institute and a liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers.

How was A James established and when did you join the business?

I joined A James Jewellers in 1947; I was invited by Mrs James’ nephew when it was time for me to leave school. She was an elderly lady who was very friendly with my sisters and I was able to start working in the shop and learn the trade. The business has been traced back to 1863 when William Rickman Jeffery had a house and shop on King Street and in 1871 he was succeeded

by John James. On James’ death in 1883 his son-in-law Henry William Day succeeded him and continued running the business until he retired in 1911, and handed over to James’ son Arthur Francis James. Arthur James ran the business until his death in 1932 and his widow Annie then ran it with her nephew Leonard Pitstow as co-director.

When Annie died in 1953, Leonard continued running the business until he retired in 1971.

My wife Olive and I still work full time in the business. I served in the national service (REME) as a watchmaker.

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What has been the key to the company’s success in the past and is it the same now? Have you had to make any major changes to your strategy?

Once I got involved in the business I loved it and I never think of it as a chore as I really enjoy the relationships with our customers. I think our success has been our attention to customers’ requirements, good stock levels, necessary skills and our welcoming attitude. We moved the business from King Street to Church Street some 10 years ago, which proved to be a good business move as it has increased footfall considerably. We also rely on good customer recommendations rather than advertising.

As an NAG member for 70 years, what are the key benefits for your business?

Some reference to legal advice, attending conferences when possible, the training courses and using the NAG’s official coat of arms for our stationery are all extremely beneficial. Olive and I particularly enjoyed the overseas NAG conferences which afforded us plenty of opportunities for discussions and swapping of ideas with like-minded proprietors.

As a watch repair specialist, is this skill still in high demand and what opportunities do you foresee in the current economic climate?

We pride ourselves on being jewellers, clock and watch repair specialists (from the small watches to large public clocks), silversmiths, engravers, etc. We offer a very broad range of services which people appreciate; we very rarely turn anything away however difficult or odd. My sons Graham and Howard both look after tower and church clocks, which is a good diversification for us.

What does the future holds for A James… besides from being an NAG member for another 70 years?

My two sons Howard and Graham are involved in the business and are both qualified horologists. I also have four grand children – Joshua and Imogen who are both 16, Benjamin who is 14 and Oliver who’s 12.

My eldest grandson Joshua already helps out in the shop, so I hope A James continues as an NAG member long into the future.

Lastly, do you have a memorable customer anecdote to share with us?

With reference to our flexibility – a wonderful, titled and regular customer brought in a book to be repaired! Her husband had queried her plan, but she had confidently stated that she knew best. The book was a paperback in poor condition, readily available on the internet and simply not worth a bookbinder’s time, but it was inscribed and of great sentimental value. A bit of research and application later – one repaired book and one very satisfied loyal customer. All in a days work!

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month send an email to: arafa@jewellers-online.org

Unique Jewelry Ltd Suite 113/114 100 Hatton Garden London EC1N 8NX Tel: 0207 405 5523

sales@uniquejewelry.co.uk

Please visit us at stand

E 1 21

1-4 SEPTEMBER 2013 EARLS COURT LONDON

jewellerylondon.com

www.myimenso.com

| NAG News: IRV Review

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Loughborough Conference 14th – 16th September, 2013 The 25th annual NAG IRV Conference – with yet another impressive line up of guest speakers and a record number of workshops on offer – is only a few weeks away and once again we have a superb show of support, says Sandra Page. oughborough, as it is affectionately known, is certainly a unique event. Yes it is a ‘conference’ but many regard it as a ‘reunion’ or a ‘holiday’ (I know, that’s pushing it a bit!); but more importantly it is an opportunity to meet with like-minded people and do that all-important networking. It’s a fact that there are not many opportunities to do this and that is one of the reasons why Loughborough is so popular and attracts attendees on a regular basis.

It is hard to believe that back in 1989 when the first NAG Registered Valuer Conference took place during what was then the International Watch, Jewellery &

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We are also delighted that regular guest speaker David Callaghan has offered to give a main presentation on Saturday on the Delhi Durbar Crown, the last State Crown to be added to the Crown Jewels. Also, following his retirement as IRV chairman, we are thrilled that Jonathan Lambert has accepted the Institute’s invitation to give a main presentation (on Sunday) on Masonic jewels and watches.

Another main guest speaker is James Riley, CEO of Gem-A, who will take a look at what has happened to gemmological training over the last 100 years (and diamond trading over the last 50).

Silver Trades Fair (ah, those were the days) that this annual event would prove to be so popular and attract so many delegates year after year.

Main attractions at this year’s event include jewellery experts John Benjamin and Geoffrey Munn from BBC1’s Antiques Road Show. Both are giving main presentations on Sunday, John on his personal approach to valuing after over 40 years in the trade, and Geoffrey will be providing the wow factor by illustrating his presentation entitled ‘From My Beloved Albert – The Personal Jewellery of Queen Victoria’ with actual examples of her jewellery.

And we haven’t even started on the workshops – 26 in total on offer this year from guest speakers Peter Buckie, David Callaghan, Steve Carson, Rosamond Clayton, Hilary Conquy, Eric Emms, Andrew Fellows, David Fromming and Louise Butterworth, Kerry Gregory, Kate Hopley, Michael Inkpen, Tracy Jukes, Heather McPherson and Shirley Mitchell, Claire Mitchell, James Riley, Chris Simpson and Ian Rook, Barry Sullivan, Richard Taylor, John Watson, Stephen Whittaker, Jason Williams and Naomi Wilson.

While you’re with us you can meet up with exhibitors AnchorCert, the Gem-A, Fellows and TH March. In addition to all of the above you can also join in the Sunday night Best Crown competition, find out who this year’s David Wilkins Award winner is, congratulate those MIRVs who became FIRVs since last year’s Conference and join

24 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

NAG News: IRV Review | us in slapping on the back those individuals who passed the Certificate of Appraisal Theory (CAT) pilot examination last year.

If you haven’t already sent in your booking form you still have time. I know bringing the Conference forward a week this year has caused disappointment for a few of our regulars. (Sorry, the University in their wisdom have planned an Open Day on the weekend we wanted and that meant we couldn’t have the lecture rooms we need and there would be an extra 10,000 people on campus. I know, how dare they? Don’t they know who we are?!).

So, to book, visit the IRV website at www.jewelleryvaluers.org and see the ‘Loughborough Conference’ page to download the brochure and booking form but don’t leave it to the last minute as the last day to book is 4th September – 10 days before the Conference takes place.

Fellows sponsorship Back in 2009 the Institute was approached

by Stephen Whittaker of Fellows Auctioneers offering to sponsor two places at the Conference for the candidates who achieved the top marks in the NAG’s JET 2 examinations which took place in the 12 months prior to the Conference. (This year we’ve changed it to the top examinees in the two 2012 exams as we won’t find out the winner of this year’s May exam until this month which usually doesn’t give the winner enough notice to attend.)

managing director, Stephen Whittaker said: “We are delighted to be sponsoring two JET 2 candidates who achieved the highest marks in their examinations. We are committed to inspiring on-going education and development within the industry and can see value in the level of training students receive through The National Association of Goldsmiths. We are pleased to be supporting the Loughborough Conference as a unique environment where the best in the trade get together to share information and knowledge.”

Established in 1876, Fellows is one of the UK’s oldest and most respected firms of auctioneers and valuers. The company’s

We are amazed by the interest shown in CAT and hope that many who pass the CAT exam will go on to become Members (and eventually Fellows) of the Institute.

Conscious of how important it is to encourage young people in our trade to continue to expand their knowledge we were delighted to accept this generous offer, and we are happy that Fellows’ generosity has continued each year since then.

In the last five years four individuals have been able to accept this sponsorship and benefit from all that the Loughborough Conference offers. Commenting, Fellows’

origin can be traced back to the collapse of an order for bicycles. When William Henry Fellows was left with the unwanted order, he decided to sell the bicycles by auction.

The family, who were also pawnbrokers, used auctions to sell uncollected pledges.

William Henry Fellows was followed by his son Francis Henry Fellows. It was during the 1920s that the business grew, with Francis selling items belonging to refugees

escaping from the ravages of the Russian revolution. Francis was in turn followed into the business by his sons William and Albert Fellows, who ran the business from Greenfield Crescent in Edgbaston, Birmingham.

The brothers also saw a wide variety of goods from refugees from the Nazi persecution who were able to smuggle out some of their wealth. Sales in this era also included lost property from the Royal Mail.

William and Albert were followed into the business by Antony Fellows, the son of Albert, who based the company in Hagley Road, Birmingham.

Fellows & Sons moved in 1990 to Augusta House in the Jewellery Quarter, the firm’s current home. Antony’s daughter Jayne Fellows has taken over the running of the business with her husband Stephen Whittaker, who is the MD and they operate over 90 auctions annually, specialising in antiques, jewellery and watches.

CAT programme and exam In March this year CAT officially became available and since then we have enrolled nearly 90 students, a few from as far afield as South Africa, Kenya, Brazil, Switzerland and Sweden.

Many from the first batch of students who enrolled have now completed the seven assignments – which need to be submitted before they can take the CAT exam. They are now ready to take the first exam, which will be held in London on 17th October.

The exam consists of two question papers, each with six questions, all of which must be answered. Each paper lasts two and a half hours. The examinee needs to gain a total of 64 per cent to pass the exam.

We are amazed by the interest shown in CAT and hope that many who pass the CAT exam will go on to become Members (and eventually Fellows) of the Institute.

We take this opportunity to wish everyone who takes the exam the very best of luck.

For those readers who aspire to become MIRVs and FIRVs one day, you can find out full details about CAT on the ‘What is an IRV?’ page of the IRV website at: www.jewelleryvaluers.org.

This year’s Conference exhibitors are:

The Voice of the Industry 25

| NAG News: Education & Training

JET Pro success

We are delighted to announce that the first student has completed our JET Pro course. Sarah Macleod of Colin Campbell, Inverness, is the first person to complete the full set of Jet Pro modules and to be awarded her Professional Jewellers’ Business Development Diploma.

e spoke to Sarah to find out if she had found the course useful. “Having come into the industry with next to no knowledge, and working for a successful independent retail and manufacturing jewellers, the JET courses were a fantastic way for me to learn more about the jewellery trade both while at work and in my own time,” she said. “JET Pro appealed as a natural progression for me – having started as ‘the Saturday girl’, then studying the JET 1 and JET 2 courses, during which time I was promoted to manager, this course was the next step in learning more about every angle of the business.

“The content of JET Pro is certainly different from JET 1 and 2 as it focuses more on the business aspect of the trade, while JET 1 and JET 2 are fantastic for learning all about gemstones, sales and product knowledge.

As a manager, I found JET Pro really useful in broadening my knowledge and helping to give me more confidence in promoting the business and training staff.”

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Sarah was tutored through the course by Mike McGraw. “Mike was a great source of information and support. A tutor is vital for those moments where you just need a nudge in the right direction or reassurance that you’ve understood the assignments correctly,” she explained. “The feedback is really helpful too – Mike was equally complimentary and tactful in pointing out that not only the strong answers but those that needed more work.”

Pro diploma and should be rightly proud of her achievement. She has thrown the gauntlet down to others who wish to develop their management skills and progress their careers in retail jewellery.”

Completing the course has helped Sarah focus her business acumen. “The course gave me a fresh look on the business. It helped to point out things that were perhaps obvious but it’s easy to be complacent and forget that a good business is only so because you’ve worked at it and if you stop working, it cannot remain a good business,” she said.

Sarah believes that the course would help others progress in their careers. “I would recommend JET Pro to others – I think having a good knowledge of the trade first is helpful, so perhaps it’s a course for someone who has been in the industry a few years.

If you’re looking into the option of setting up your own business I would definitely recommend the course, as it covers a full range of business aspects.”

Fitting in studying for the JET Pro diploma with work and private life is a challenge, but with good organisation any student can complete the course. JET Pro is a modular distance learning course which covers all the main areas a retail jeweller needs to understand to have a sustainable and profitable business. It contains a balanced range of management and business development subjects from which you can either select a few or get maximum benefit from the full suite of modules. This flexibility allows you to concentrate on specific areas of concern for your business or focus on areas which will realise its full potential.

Taking all six modules will equip you with the knowledge required to develop a complete and implementable business plan which will make a real difference to your business and to your bottom line.

I think having a good knowledge of the trade first is helpful, so perhaps it’s a course for someone who has been in the industry a few years.

Sarah clearly impressed Mike with her commitment: “Sarah submitted six clear, meticulous assignments supported by a learning log which related what she had covered at each stage to her business.”

He added: “She can now be very satisfied that she was the first to be awarded the JET

If you are interested in JET Pro you will find more information on our website: www.nageducation.org/courses Please call us on: 020 7613 4445 #1 if you have any questions about this course or any other courses that we offer. You can also email us at: jet@jewellers-online.org

NAG News: Education & Training |

The Bransom Award winner for June The education department would like to congratulate our latest winner of the Bransom Award, Mark Bailey of Terence Lett Jewellers in Witney. e asked Mark how he came into the jewellery business. “I’ve working in it for a relatively short time – I completed my first year in the middle of July. I’d worked in a few retail jobs part-time while I was studying at college and very much liked the environment. I enjoyed speaking and selling to people as well as looking for solutions to help them out,” he explained. “After finishing college, I was looking for full-time work and decided to take a chance in a jewellers.

It turns out that it was just the thing for me.

I really enjoyed learning about how different parts worked in watches, the differences in stones and the metals in jewellery. When Mr Lett offered me the chance to further

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this learning on the JET course, I jumped at the opportunity!

“As with most people who win this award I must say it was a complete shock!,” he added. “I’d just got back from a holiday in Mexico that I’d treated myself to for completing the JET 1 course. I got the call the very first day I started back at work so spent the rest of the day with a huge grin on my face. It just completed the month for me.”

The aspect that Mark enjoyed most about the course was the fact that it helped build his confidence when selling. “For example, I knew what garnets were but not a lot about why they were different colours or hardness levels. So, when a customer asks about this

The Bransom Award In July 2010 the NAG launched a competition with the aim of recognising the very best JET 1 projects. Course tutors put forward nominations before the winner is chosen by our chief moderator. The individual who is awarded the highest assignment mark is rewarded with a trip to the historic and prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall in London for the presentation of their certificate at our annual award ceremony. The award, which is sponsored by Bransom Retail Systems, is made on a monthly basis.

in the future I can give a real answer, which in turn will give them buying confidence,” he added. “For me, the most useful part of the course was definitely the final assignment on diamonds. I have a passion for watches (possibly from my great-grandfather who was a watchmaker) and had learned a lot about them. However, when it came to diamonds, I lacked confidence in explaining the 4 Cs to people. The course has helped me overcome this.

“I think the course will really help me progress in my career. It’s given me a huge boost in confidence both in what I am selling and also how to sell it. It has given me a wealth of knowledge in a short space of time and I am looking forward to starting JET 2 early next year, if all goes to plan.”

Finally Mark wanted to add a huge ‘thank you’ to his tutor Mary Garland for all her help and to everyone at his shop for supporting him ‘massively’.

Mary Garland said of Mark’s win: “I am delighted that Mark has won this Award as throughout JET 1 he worked hard on his assignments, which were all well presented and on time. I very much hope that he will continue his studies and I am looking forward to being his tutor on JET 2.”

The course moderator also gave us a glowing report on Mark’s work: “This final piece of course assignment work completed

by Mark was up to the same high standard as his earlier assignments. The amount of research undertaken for it can be seen in the way the relevant facts are marshalled, and he fully understands the details of diamond grading systems. Mark’s ability to use this knowledge during a sale is well evidenced. Reference points were taken from the GIA diamond grading system – brightness, fire and scintillation – and each given a full and clear explanation.

“The final section of the assignment dealt with the restoration/repair of a five stone diamond ring. It was covered in a very professional, logical manner. There is no doubt that Mark has a high degree of ‘customer care’ skills. Technical information for this section was drawn from a local goldsmith and ring manufacturer.” He added: “Mark is a worthy recipient of the JET 1 Bransom Award.”

We wish Mark the very best in his future career and look forward to receiving his JET 2 enrolment.

The Voice of the Industry 27

| Letters

Letters to the Editor

and the impact on the value of the diamond between being natural and untreated, compared with synthetic and treated, is far greater than that between a colour or clarity grade either way.

On balance I disagree with James.

AnchorCert provides an independent, honest and consistent diamond grading certificate backed up by highly trained and experienced gemmologists using expensive, sophisticated and properly maintained and calibrated instruments. The diamond grading service is endorsed by UKAS accreditation to ISO 17025 which proves the competence of the laboratory, its people and equipment, and as such is audited every year. I think an AnchorCert certificate is worth more than the paper it’s written on.

Michael Allchin, chief executive, AnchorCert

Michael Allchin, chief executive of AnchorCert, responds to James Riley’s observations on the diamond certification process.

It is fair to point out that AnchorCert was thoroughly enjoyed reading James Riley’s not asked – nor was paid – to produce full article ‘Diamond certificates – the truth will certificates which include this information; out’ in the July 2013 issue of The Jeweller. we were requested to supply mini-certificates, AnchorCert’s grades were almost identical which only report colour and clarity, weight to those of the ‘Gem-A Education’ team and and dimensions. were always within plus/minus one grade I think James has missed out a very of those of GIA for both colour and clarity. significant point in his feature. One of the This illustrates some welcome consistency main reasons why The Birmingham Assay between us.

Office has invested over £0.5million in its I think what is most interesting about AnchorCert facility, including a Raman laser James’ results is the movement it seems to photospectrometer, UV-VIS, DiamondSure, show in both colour and clarity grading DiamondView and Sarin, three sets of since the 1970s and 1990s. Of the seven GIA certificated master stones, and sent our stones submitted, the Gem-A Education senior gemmologist Anu Manchanda, MSc, team graded five stones better for colour BSc, FGA, DGA, GG, FNAG and PJ Dip on than the old Gem Testing Laboratory, and professional courses at home and abroad, is two were better for clarity. GIA has graded because our clients also want us to certify, five as having a better colour than the Gem as best we can, that their diamonds are Testing Laboratory, and five as having a better natural and untreated. We occasionally see clarity. I find the difference in colour grading diamonds that have not been declared as the most surprising. AnchorCert has three synthetic or HPHT treated, and every day we sets of GIA certificated master stones for checking colour, and these colours don’t change. The diamond master | Feature stones are specified as being at either Diamond ce – the truth wrtiliflicates the top or bottom of each colour out grade, so you would expect that colour grading against master stones M would be reasonably consistent within a laboratory and over time.

With the benefit of certificated stones coming in to its sister company ‘SafeGuard Valuations’ on a regular basis, AnchorCert is fortunate in being able to continually measure itself against GIA and other gem labs, and add to its large database of inter-laboratory grading comparisons. The discrepancies Last issue’s article by James Riley on the contentious subject of diamond certificates from some labs are consistent and it will be interesting to see the results of James’ see diamonds that have been laser drilled, further investigations.

KM treated or filled… again undeclared. Not He refers in his article to differences all laboratories are equipped to offer this between the laboratories in relation to important service as part of their certification, fluorescence, cut grade, polish and symmetry.

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Michael is quite correct in all that he says.

Regarding colour, the problem is that ‘master stones’ can never be the same and some slippage in colour has occurred since the original 1950s sets. Gem-A’s set goes back that far and thus is more likely to be closer to the original than a seventh or eighth generation set. The point here is really that colour grading has become softer.

I think it’s a shame that labs don’t automatically do fluorescence, and cut, polish and symmetry grades as standard.

No, AnchorCert wasn’t asked but, given that it had refused to participate in the experiment directly with us we had to get what we could… My comments were based on the other reports and Feature | not directed at any lab specifically.

I have my doubts about ISO 17025 and how it can be applied to diamond grading – a relatively subjective area. AnchorCert is to be applauded for the investment they have made and the position in the market.

This does not alter my view that a radical shake up is needed of the lab certificate system. No one is infallible and I firmly believe that the consumer is badly let down by the variation between these pieces of paper.

The question to ask is does the salesperson selling the item know the difference and are they educating their customer? Michael and I may have to agree to differ!

James Riley, chief executive, Gem-A

The labs have been disclosed paid for their as we have opinions which on the report are in writing s.

It can be argued that results are many of these similar but for me it is there is clear that virtually no direct between correlation the perce The infere ived marke and each nce is that t leader GIA of the other if it doesn is something ’t then there different labs. if one takes wrong with Indeed the larges determines it. The marke t difference and clarity whether we t on colour and attach have these and which es a price one is lookin things is the most to it then g at a differe reliable… demands the marke nce of 25 on price. we have them. t per cent This is an Let’s look it values most unacceptab at which affairs as it but then, more le state of would be also look at importantly, unreasonab the end consu how the differe let’s le to expec mer or even t nt labs comp So to come small indepe retailer to are. at this from do this level ndent laboratories different we took a new angle tends to be of research. and I succe seven stones Each of these a general anecdotal ssfully argue from the feeling about and labs will claim stone collec d that it wasn’ carried Gemof tion, all of infallibility the reliabi them is built the day. The A a degree t and and that lity of which have amusing aspec there for up largely its particu might give is the correc 30 years been by hearsa t – which ‘feeling’. What lar grade rise to conce plus. These t one. It has y and a for teachi is certain rn – is that are used opponents, to believe order to justify ng and as is that differe reports on this in Eric Emms our such were an apparently its existence, the Gem nt and the late graded by Dunn both report Testin fees identical stone attract a totally itself. g and Brian Laboratory freely admit I do not presu the will and in the in the 1970s different price ted that they easily have me to state is the best 1990s when each other, , in relation could spoken for which or worst. The it also issued and that if reports. We to our side! next step the same gather more It’s said took these GIA to different will be to stone is sent that knowl internationa stones, which laboratories, known gradin edge is powe There are l reports as on this subjec opinions from had a different opinio g, and subm will be given. two other r but well as t it could UK dealer itted them the comm ns This last point issues regard these report s. be argued knowledge first to ercial marke report is an s which ing is crucial. is dangerous. that proportion also call A lab t leader opinion and provide a question.

Those who or cut grade undergone them into GIA to no more and current bench The first is a large have diamond trainin . So we example of To read thes is that there quantity of there mark but ‘then and inconsistenc have an a ‘fair’ symm g, such as A’s Diamo also a small print was an now’ comp e y regarding that it is not repo nd Diplom Gemetry on a GIA declar and ‘very rts arison the dimen ing opinio a, will know one a legal docum the stones between report n in the past, good’ on reports have sions of might think . This is calcul that these its NAG IRV ent etc. At another. Given and now. questionabl perceived Conference the one was look have subse ated by scann the stone These stones wisdom states e validity public, and that in Loughborou quent with few years ing but ly been subm a laser using even the that one should ing the a stone which at a different gh a ago, a debat companies untrained a Sarin mach something itted to the who has buy says ’excell e was held salesperson providing whether a like ine. Certai done no diamond, at ent’ or ‘very laboratory it is easy about lab report more nly, in report the to report to than read good’ read these the subje UK and also see how s one might was worth s here least to the on which around if you were ct, has the paper think one regraded stone just it was written education increasingly a different untrained buying a was lookin

by Gem-A’s according brainwashed staff. The . David Callag diamo g become to at eye… this nd, into findings are piece of paper at least to say over the believing han Below are eye. The differe the untrain must have that a diamo startling. internet – – two tables ed nces are only you would one of these nd of results up with what significant thoug aroun not which raise pieces of end h d you with 0.02m questi These results believed you one the differe ons over the m paper.

Stone weight Most labs were buying show a worryi in general validity of report nce was 0.12m The knock do have ISO tency, first . rather than -on effect Gem-A lab ng incons s m. accreditation in the area of these incons (Gem but in the the labs thems isis that the of colour. My 9001, Gem-A Educat UK I believ Testing Labora team grade istencies elves. same mach education e only Ancho ion tory) 0.37 d the stones higher level ines produ r has the and symm GIA by eye and ce a polish ISO 17025 within a single etry grade H 0.40 . The Gem got to Anchor Laboratory grade of the and in some Testin also had this G H perceived British Gemm 0.44 leader. Why cases a market level but attaini g ological is it then required rigoro F G D 0.44 that Solitaire ng it Institute labs with called GIA us standa soG rds. The mach master sets G D F 0.53 described Gem Lab can be two inery away both above should F G grades E E L from 0.54 the GIA thems be regula checked and G G D rly even each E elves and J calibrated.

G 0.56 other? Colou I might sugge H respectfully D E J r is subjec H st with a maste J that some tive but F r stone to D might need K G do this as G compare to, to should be a matter of G these J H much closer I urgency.

The secon .

I Clarity is H I d issue less subjec Stone weight is that fluorescenc I tive so why I of we seeing e. All of the Gem-A lab are VS2 stones (Gem stones subH mitted were graded as Gem-A Educat The conce Testing Labora graded by 0.37 VVS? rn here is ion tory) GemGIA that A and there are with ‘nil’ or GIA numbers VS2 0.40 massive of reports ‘faint’ fluore Anchor being produ One lab had scence.

VS2 Si1 0.44 UK alone and British Gemm ced every in the stone fluore they are being ological VS1 VS2 VS1 with a grade 0.44 scing UK suppli used by leadin Solitaire Institute as high as VS2 VS2 ers to offer VS1 Si1 g 0.53 ‘strong’. This makes the a full servic Gem Lab VVS2 their client.

VS2 VVS2 stone far e to you Si1 Si1 0.54 Some even less desira VS2 on the marke VS1 VS1 exhibit the ble VS2 of the NAG, VS2 VS1 0.56 t as it gener logos BJA and CMJ VS2 VVS2 Si1 ally tends VS2 to dislike VS1 VVS2 on the certific I’m fairly stones which VVS2 sure that, VS2 ate.

Si1 VS1 VVS2 fluore while they This natura members, Si1 VS2 might be l phenomeno sce.

VS1 VVS2 those organi sations do n can enhance a Si1 endorse a VS1 VVS1 not activel stone’s beaut labora y 50 The Jeweller tory. y VVS2 and be VVS2 It’s a fine a positive, believe this July 2013 but prices line but I misleads the VS1 do not reflect this. It is customer kudos to a true and certificate gives that many when it is stones will fluore nor given. not warran sce if left Again this is ted for a long misleading period of to the client. time under UV but there is a set amou nt of time during which a stone should be exposed to the UV light and

Diamond certificates.

Love them stay. They prov or hate them of all a ston ide reassurance for they are here the e’s to simply a note attributes. They have consumer and a full picture long since used for this of colour and clari ceased to ty, though be purpose. they are prompted Recent enqu a joint vent iries by mem still primarily ure by the reliability bers have of these labo the NAG and Gem compare -A rator to look into y reports to each othe and how r. Gem-A they genu CEO James inely Riley repo uch of the discussion rts. about

Colour

Clarity

28 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

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The Voice of the

Industry 51

T H E

M I G H T Y

As it celebrates its 110th anniversary this year, one family-run silver jewellery company in particular is poised to makes its dynamic presence felt in the UK. mong the first time exhibitors at IJL this year is a silver fashion jewellery brand called Quinn. If the name isn’t familiar, almost certainly – to a handful of loyal retailers around the country – the style of its jewellery will be. Bold and distinctive, the Germandesigned and made collections are created for those who like to make a statement with their accessories and while every year sees a new style direction, the creative ethos is always unmistakably Quinn.

The fact that the name is unrecognised by some in the UK is simply due to the fact that for a number of years the products were supplied through a wholesaler who chose not to promote the name Quinn. All that changed when the responsibility for the line was taken over by a UK-based agent, Hans Brandt. However, until quite recently,

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30 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

silver jewellery was, typically, the preserve of jewellery galleries and contemporary design boutiques, rather than the ‘traditional’ jeweller.

And, as we know, all that has changed too.

Which is why Quinn has chosen this moment to attend its first UK trade fair… that, coupled with the fact that to those back at Quinn HQ, the UK retail customers were unknown.

Brandt is now the vital link.

“From my observations, in this current economic climate silver is the new gold,” says Brandt. “The important ‘big’ independent jewellers never used to sell silver jewellery – or perhaps just had a branded shop-in-shop.

And then, when they started to look at silver, they were looking for good quality and service as well as design – which wasn’t always so easy. Now definitely feels like the right time for us to be exhibiting at a trade fair.”

It’s fair to say, of course, that Quinn will be among a generous and growing number of brands offering silver jewellery at IJL – some of them will also be new names to many. So what makes this collection stand out from the crowd? “You could say it’s a Marmite sort of thing,” explains Brandt. “Although we cover traditional items like lockets, hearts and crosses, Quinn is more known for less delicate jewellery – aimed at women who want to make a statement. This strong, bold look, with attention paid to surface interest, is perhaps not for everyone. It has its own style which is timeless and although there are fresh new designs every year they always continue the Quinn idea. A typical comment from customers who view a new collection is “Lovely, it’s still Quinn!”

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Combined with this creative direction – a conscious decision to steer well clear of short-lived trends – is a determination to adhere to the company’s long-standing tradition of premium, quality products in 925 sterling silver. And the product portfolio, while broad, is clearly structured.

Reflecting the ongoing trend for personalised, individual jewellery is Quinn’s C.C.C. Ring System. “One question we asked ourselves two years ago is: ‘What could be the successor product to charms,’ says Peter Scheurle, who is joint MD with his brother Oliver. “This collection (the name stands for Choose. Combine. Collect) was the answer we came up with. Its colourful rings, which can be combined in any way to form a trio, have been well received.”

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Another concept is IQ – Individual by Quinn – a collection of hundreds of cufflinks in silver or gold. Doing exactly what it says on the tin is 'Colors' – another recently added line which comprises sterling silver pendants, earrings and rings in different sizes and featuring an array of coloured stones (from amethyst and citrine, to garnet, blue topaz and smoky quartz) in plain settings with faceted designs.

A collection of gold has also been a key part of Quinn's history and is now enjoying something of a renaissance. “Before the crisis gold accounted for about one third of the turnover,” says Brandt, “but the energy for creating new designs went away for a while. It returned last year and we now have a nice collection. Compared to the silver, the line is more refined, more graceful.”

The pieces tend to be lighter and more open – a reduced use of material (especially in the light of gold prices) mean that the models are affordable but lose none of their expressive power. “I also think that a huge piece of gold jewellery has a tendency to not look real – more like costume jewellery,” he adds. “But, while gold is good to underline diamonds, silver is a better metal for playing around with design, regardless of the price.”

And Brandt should know – an agent now, he is also a trained and qualified goldsmith and was once a jewellery retailer… who sold Quinn, a brand that he chose for its quality as well as design strengths. “The business

QUINN — THE HISTORY The company was founded in 1903 by Franz Scheurle – the factory in Schwaebisch Gemünd in Germany manufactured small silver goods, in particular walking stick and umbrella handles. At this time the company was the official supplier of silver items to the Russian imperial house.

After the First World War silver production recommenced, with the focus on gift items such as cigarette cases and pill boxes.

Between 1950 and 1970 the company, now in the hands of Franz’s son Gerhard, included silver jewellery in its range, with pieces for ladies introduced during the 1960s.

When Gerhard’s son Franz and son-in-law Christoph Boden took over the management in 1972 the brand name Quinn was introduced – a derivation of the word ‘queen’, to suggest ‘young jewellery with royal blood’.

By 1980 the company had expanded its range to include designer watches in silver (the first manufacturer in Europe to do so) as well as gold and platinum jewellery.

Following the retirement of Boden in 2001, Franz’s sons Oliver and Peter joined forces within the management team and began the process of ‘realigning’ the business. In 2009 the Quinn logo was redesigned as part of the update, while the product range was streamlined and enhanced and concept collections – such as IQ and C.C.C. were developed and brought to market. This year, as it celebrated its 110th anniversary, Quinn unveiled a new concept for gold jewellery at Inhorgenta, the Munich trade show.

is based just 20 miles from the Mercedes Benz factory and the two companies have a pedantic attitude towards detail,” he says.

“We think there’s probably something in the water!” Along with sales reps from around the world Brandt attends an annual meeting to discuss and brainstorm the new styles with the design team. “We look at them from the perspective of different markets and have the chance to skip designs if we don’t think they’ll work for whatever reason,” he explains. “We started working in this way three years ago and I think that it’s lovely that we can do that. I can see that influence on the collection.

“The sales reps really identify with the company and it creates stability. There’s a strong relationship between them, HQ and the retail customers. We call it the Quinn family.” Clearly retailers in the UK will be able to benefit from tapping into this close network, especially now that Quinn has representation in this country. “I hear about

the problems some people have with service, but our customers know that a UK agent gives them prompt and direct support.

I’m quite proud of that,” he says.

Meanwhile, in Germany, the present managing directors – the fourth generation of the family to run the company – are intent on returning to the roots of the business. While always remaining true to its values, Quinn Scheurle has had to constantly reinvent itself throughout its 110 year history – the period obviously saw moments of great upheaval. Having the foresight and flexibility to react to developments and changes in the global market is still one of the company’s key strengths and along with quality, creative energy and attention to detail continues to characterise the brand in 2013.

Visit Quinn at IJL on stand F48.

The Voice of the Industry 31

| Feature

Cause and effect As The Silversmiths & Jewellers Charity launches its new website and donations leaflet, trustee Gordon Hamme, outlines its history, its work and the increasing need for support. he trustees of The Silversmiths & Jewellers Charity were surprised that within just a few days of launching its website, requests flowed in at a much higher rate than might normally be expected at this time of year.

Charity secretary, Julie Griffin said: “We are seeing more people now needing our grants and support.”

Chairman, Ian Morton added: “Our charity was established over 180 years ago to help those who have worked in the silversmiths’ and goldsmiths’ industries, together with their widows and widowers who have fallen on hard times. Many of our grantees are helped in a small way on a regular basis. Our trustees also give consideration to reasonable requests for one-off payments towards the acquisition of essential items and replacements.”

The charity was established in 1827 as the Goldsmiths and Jewellers Annuity Institution with the help of The Goldsmiths’ Company and the patronage of the Marquis of Northampton and then King George IV. Currently HRH Princess Michael of Kent who, as a Liveryman of The Goldsmiths’

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Company, enjoys the connection with the trade, is the Patron. The Goldsmiths’ Company has always been the charity’s chief benefactor but it has remained independent from the charity, which in 2005 saw its name changed to The Silversmiths & Jewellers Charity.

Originally the charity had relied upon subscriptions from trade members and those who were in need were able to ask for assistance in retirement or ill-health. As the trade changed and shrank in size, and with the improvements within the welfare state, company and private pension schemes, applications for help and the number of subscribers dwindled. The decision was made to open up the resources of the charity to non-subscribers. This meant that any application would be considered on its merits; the only criteria being service to the trade and genuine need.

Our current experience bears out the pertinent comment of the novelist Anthony Powell who wrote: “Growing old is like being increasingly penalised for a crime you haven’t committed”.

The charity raises funds for members of the jewellery trade who have fallen on hard times by organising events such as golf days and dinners with speakers including Stephen Webster (inset).

32 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

The work of the charity is nationwide. Its role is unique in embracing every sector of the trade – manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers. By means of regular financial support or one-off grants it assists both current and retired trade employees or their spouses who live anywhere in the United Kingdom and who find themselves in need because of poverty or sickness.

Many grantees have given a lifetime’s service to the trade; others have tragically been denied that opportunity having been struck down with illness or disability at relatively young ages. The many appeals received by the charity for special assistance often come via other charitable organisations or from social services departments unable to help through the benefits system. Many of the cases dealt with are deeply distressing and it is a fallacy that examples of real poverty can no longer be found. Contrary to the popular misconception the State does not always provide and those who have fallen upon hard times through no fault of their own have to turn to the charity to help make their lives a little more pleasant, especially in old age.

The charity is very proactive when it comes to raising money, but needs the support of the trade. The dinner committee is looking for donations of gifts, which are skillfully auctioned, and advertising in the brochure.

You can take part in these very enjoyable events and can now make a donation through the website, which also attracts tax efficient Gift Aid. The next opportunity to get involved is the annual Dinner on Friday 29th November at the RAC Club, in London’s Pall Mall. This will be followed by the annual Golf Day on Friday 9th May 2014 at The Royal Blackheath Golf Club, Eltham, London, SE9.

To reserve your places call Julie Griffin on 020 8265 9288 or you can email her at: info@thesjcharity.co.uk

EW ADAMS

Celebrating 65 years of excellence

Very fine 1 to 2.85ct emerald cut emeralds set in 18ct gold and platinum with collection quality diamonds

Discover the beauty of fine gem-set jewellery made in our own London workshops

SINCE 1946 Telephone: 020 8640 0678 Email: sales@ewadams.co.uk

| Business Support: Legal

Protection of your designs The IJL show gives designers the chance to show off their new designs and allows retailers to find new collections. However, it also provides the ideal opportunity for competitors, counterfeiters and copycats to ‘collect ideas’. Designers must know how to protect their rights, as Louise Brogden of Boyes Turner explains. hen a jewellery designer creates a new piece it gives rise to a number of rights and protections. Some of these come about automatically, others need to be registered to be effective.

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Design right protection Design rights protect the shape and appearance of an item and are used to prevent others from copying an original design. To be protected by design rights, the design needs to be original, which means it must not have been copied from an existing piece and it must not already be a common jewellery design.

Unregistered design rights Unregistered design rights arise automatically when a new piece is ‘created’ – the designer doesn’t need to do anything in order to rely on this protection and if someone copies that design the designer can bring a claim against them for infringement of the design right.

Registered design rights give greater protection, but only apply where the design has been registered.

UK design rights automatically protect new designs for 15 years from the time the article is made or the design is drawn. During that period, no-one is allowed to copy the piece unless the designer allows them to do so by granting them a licence. This right protects only the shape of the article; it will not cover any surface decoration such as an engraved or painted pattern. If the piece is made available for sale within five years of its creation, the protection given by the design

34 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

right is reduced to 10 years from when the piece was put on sale.

Designs are also automatically protected by a European right known as the Community design right. This lasts for three years from the date the article was first put on sale.

Although it offers a shorter protection period, Community design right protects surface decoration as well as shape, including colour, texture, materials and ornamentation, so it can be very useful for protecting decorative work and details such as beading, colouring and engraving.

Registered design rights Designs can be protected for longer if they are registered and the designer may register them in the UK, across the whole of the EU, or in certain chosen countries. In the UK, designs are registered with the Intellectual Property Office or, for EU protection, designs are registered with the Office for Harmonization in the Internal Market (OHIM).

Although registration for the Community

design right costs more than UK-only registration, it provides more protection to designers who want to sell their designs further afield.

For registration beyond the EU, a designer can apply directly to the countries in which they want protection, or use the system provided by the World Intellectual Property Organisation (WIPO) to apply to several countries at once.

Once registered, a design is protected for up to 25 years. Registered design right protection is stronger than for unregistered designs – with unregistered rights the designer can stop others from copying their design, whereas with registered rights, the designer can stop anyone from producing a piece similar to theirs, even if it was not actually copied.

New laws to be introduced in the UK will make deliberate copying of a registered design a criminal offence, and copiers may be punished by a fine or prison sentence or both. Once in force, these should act as an additional deterrent for would-be copiers.

Copyright protection A piece of jewellery can also be protected by copyright as a work of artistic craftsmanship.

If the item is a one-off, copyright lasts for the life of the designer plus 70 years after they die. However, for a design that has been manufactured for sale on a larger scale (normally at least 50 copies), copyright is limited to 25 years from the date it is first put on the market.

New legislation is expected to remove this limit, so that commercially produced pieces will be given the same protection as one-off creations. However, it is not yet known when this law will be put in place.

Copyright protection may not be available for all jewellery designs – not all 3D designs are protected by copyright and only those that are considered works of artistic craftsmanship are covered. In general, this requires an intention to create a work of art, a level of artistic quality and a sufficient degree of craftsmanship.

This article is provided for general guidance only and is not a substitute for taking specific legal advice on an individual basis. You can contact Louisa Brogden on 0118 952 7247, email: lbrogden@boyesturner.com or visit www.boyesturner.com for more information.

Future

Trend Report 2014 Whether it shapes your buying decisions over the coming weeks, or simply inspires ideas for impactive window displays, keeping a weather eye on fashion is always a good thing. Here, Adorn Insight, who will run a trend seminar at IJL next month, and Swarovski Gemvisions, offer their take on style directions for 2014.

Adorn Insight trends As the newly appointed official trend partner of IJL, Adorn Insight has identified a series of key trends which will be used as inspiration for IJL’s AW2014 catwalk event on each day.

Juliet Hutton-Squire and Maia Adams – who founded the global trend analysis agency in 2011 – talk us through three of those trends:

Terrain

wood offset with metallic accents, this look will appeal to jewellery lovers who are not afraid to make a statement.

Carved surfaces, or naturally cracked materials, emulate rock crevices.

Imperfections such as inclusions, bring interest and desirability to jewellery conceived in this style.

Alexis Bittar’s Lucite necklace combines a number of design details that are central to this look. First there’s those gorgeously organic shaped links with their translucent quality hinting at ice caps or mountain streams. Then note the judicious use of rich yellow gold metal, cast to resemble nuggets, set with a random assortment of semi-precious gemstones that might have been swept along with the molten metal as it makes its way to the Earth’s surface.

Self Portrait One only has to consider the massive success of social platforms such as Instagram – with its rose-tinted view on the world –

Alexis Bittar: Ophelia Link Lucite necklace

We’re really loving this back to nature vibe with its autumnal palette of greys, mossy greens, garnet and brown. Its absolute focus on texture and tactility, and the bringing together of contrasting materials, demonstrates an evolution of the Volcanic Elements, Eco Chic and Collage macro trends that we forecast in previous seasons.

With its concentration on rough rocks, patinated metal surfaces, stone slices and

36 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

Aurora Lopez Mejia: 18ct gold and diamond handcuff

Smith/Grey: 18ct gold mismatched rose earrings

and the continued focus of leading luxury fashion brands on heritage and craft-based collections, to realise that nostalgia still has the design world in its grip.

This is great news for the jewellery industry, where potent drivers such as sentimentality, story telling and all-important personalisation underpin so much of the consumer decision-making process.

This trend is all about letting customers tell their own tale, in their own way. Trinkets, memorabilia and found objects are great starting points to inspire collectable lines.

Also important are message-based pieces bearing clever maxims or single initials.

It’s important when considering this trend however, not to trip too far the wrong way down memory lane. While references to

Trends past eras – be these motifs or techniques – play a pivotal role, the trick is to update them for a contemporary audience.

Smith/Grey’s quirky earring set does this subtly but effectively by presenting a mismatched pair which individually are the epitome of classic floral jewellery, but together – with their off-kilter conception – offer a modern spin on the look. With its artisanal beaten gold surface and contemporary upper case font, Aurora Lopez Mejia’s bangle is an update on the message-bearing love token.

Future Plus

Swarovski Gems – Gemvisions trends Brought by the creative team at Swarovski Gems – trend forecasters, jewellery experts, a historian and industry insiders.

The keyword to sum up the year 2014 is ‘conversation’ – an exchange between diametrically opposite extremes. They may appear to contrast boldly, but in fact come together seamlessly to create a new visual vocabulary. The themes and trends are characterised by an intense richness, by an intriguing combination and juxtaposition of agelessness and modernity, the past and the future, intricate details and modernist streamlined elements.

•

•

•

Ecume ring by Lorenz Bäumer – white gold and diamonds

Both fashion and jewellery have been flirting with minimalism for several seasons now and this pared back look is the perfect antithesis to busier aesthetics that have tended to seize the limelight.

The perfect option for those with inclinations to a more unisex or androgynous look, this trend is all about muted colour palettes, geometrically-inspired silhouettes, and pieces with an architectural bent. It’s also a great opportunity to make metal the hero, keeping extraneous details to a minimum by, at most, using them to highlight a sculpted edge or create a subtle accent.

Lorenz Baumer’s Ecume ring is a wonderful example of how we see this trend manifested in jewellery. Not only does it move the always popular stacked ring into a contemporary new arena, its exquisite proportions and those barely-there diamond slices are the epitome of understated luxe.

New technology sits alongside traditional craftsmanship – each supporting and enhancing the other.

The focus on the gemstone remains – the stone as a work of art, a natural rarity.

Renewed interest in ‘traditionally coloured’ stones – blue sapphires, rubies, emeralds – as well as ‘extreme rarities’ such as kunzite, morganite, Paraíba tourmaline and fire opal.

Silver and Swarovski zirconia.

Monaco Bijoux, Bangkok

Colours: rich, autumnal and flaming tones.

Alchemical hues like intense rust, fire, ultramarine and off-white.

Cuts: like modern flints, stones that resulted from the Big Bang, marquise, crystalline formations.

Keywords: reflecting, laser-cut, sacred, enigmatic, primitive, modern icon

Cross Gender

Allegoria Sacred, symbolic, enigmatic and ritualistic – this theme is about jewellery with a message and a meaning. The harmony and rhythms of mathematics, the beauty of geometry and ancient philosophies are all drawn upon for inspiration.

Rose gold plated silver and Swarovski zirconia and pearl. Belatriz, Brazil

White gold and Swarovski gems, FR Hueb Jewellery, Brazil

A trend fuelled by teenage energy – resisting stereotypes, changing roles and moods, moving from one extreme to another.

Surreal, fantastical and unconventional – it’s a mad, mixed up world… with a craving for pink!

The Voice of the Industry 37

¯

Aug/Sept 2013 / Volume 22 / No. 6

Amazing amber Meteorite hunting IJL and Munich show previews

Photo: Atelier Tom Munsteiner

Gemworld in Munich !

October 25 — 27, 2013 Europe’s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn

www.gemworldmunich.com

us ok sit bo Vi ace F on

Meet the international

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013 t

Editorial

Gems&Jewellery

Aug/Sept 13 Contents

4

And it’s (almost) goodbye from me International Jewellery London (IJL) 2013 starts soon (see page 20). It will be my tenth as part of Gem-A’s team. The first was a sort of teaser/trailer to my taking up the position a few weeks later as CEO in November 2004. I assume it was felt that a bit of advance exposure might be useful for all. This coming IJL will be my last. Having stepped down as CEO just over a year ago, I have stayed on as editor of this magazine and as an International Ambassador representing Gem-A at various events worldwide. Now, as from the end of September, I leave Gem-A completely to play the banjo, write books and continue with the specialized consultancy work that has sustained me through most of my working life.

It has been an interesting nine years. A lot has changed. Gem-A’s market and global reach has grown, courses have been updated and we are producing an increasing number of graduates who realize the uniqueness and international prestige of our qualifications.

But frustratingly a lot hasn’t changed. Poor if not downright dishonest gem descriptions still

Gem-A News / Calendar

6 Gem News

abound around the world and far too many of those in the industry remain not only in blissful ignorance of developments in treatments and other challenges, but seem convinced they don’t need to know about them. It can make you laugh and cry — at the same time sometimes — as when Gem-A tutor Cara Williams reported, on Gem-A’s GemTalk, on a catalogue description of green amber and silver jewellery which explained to customers that “green amber gets its lush, mossy hues from ancient seaweed deposits”.

If you can’t educate the sellers, next best is to educate their customers to ask the right

8 Gems and Minerals

12

questions. That’s why JTV’s concept of a gem conference aimed as the public is an interesting one (page 6). It ties in with the Gem-A/JTV GemBasics course and one of the mantras of modern jewellery and gem selling — whether from a high street shop or a website, selling is now a package in which a purchase is partnered by information and interaction. Such interaction is often web-based today, for example via Facebook. Facebook is also one of the primary ways in which Gem-A now stays in touch with students and members.

Strange to think that it started the same year that I joined Gem-A. I’ll be back for one more outing as editor here — before I go I will have finalized the October issue — but in the meantime I hope to see many of you at IJL and at the September Hong Kong Show.

Jack Ogden

Cover Picture Tiny pinpoint particles in a Tanzanian spinel (see page 12). Photomicrograph by Christopher P. Smith.

Recent Events Shows & Exhibitions

16 Aug/Sept 2013 / Volume 22 / No. 6

Stone Scoop

22

Amazing amber Meteorite hunting IJL and Munich show previews

Published by The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) 21 Ely Place, London EC1N 6TD t: +44 (0)20 7404 3334 f: +44 (0)20 7404 8843 e: editor@gem-a.com w: www.gem-a.com Registered charity no. 1109555 Copyright 2013 ISSN 1746-8043

Editor Jack Ogden Advisory Board Mary Burland, Harry Levy and James Riley Design and Production Zest Design +44 (0)20 7864 1504 Any opinions expressed in Gems&Jewellery are understood to be the views of the contributors and not necessarily of the publishers.

Advertising For mediapack and advertising rates please contact Ian Francis at the National Association of Goldsmiths on tel: +44 (0)20 7613 4445 or email him at: ian@jewellers-online.org

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Gem-A News and Views

Gem-A news Gem-A CEO James Riley

FGA

Home Sweet Home

As summer draws to a close, 21 Ely Place is just about shipshape and Bristol fashion ready for the start of the teaching year in September. The final touches are being made to the library which, some 58 years after its creation, will once again be known as the Sir James Walton Memorial Library.

Sir James Walton was an eminent surgeon specializing specifically in lung disease. He was surgeon to Kings George V, Edward VIII and George VI. One of his achievements was to understand the importance of atomic lattice structure of minerals when dealing with diseases caused by mineral dusts. It is hardly surprising that in his retirement when he took up the study of gemmology he was an expert on crystallography and wrote a very good volume on Physical Gemmology. He passed the Diploma in Gemmology with distinction and was President of the Gemmological Association as well as Chairman of the NAG (I think one of the very few if not the only non-trade individual to hold that position). He bequeathed his library to the two associations which in its day was one of the finest and most comprehensive collections on jewellery, gemmology and horology.

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gives a round-up of what’s happening at Gem-A. The library was split in 1990 with the separation of the two associations but now, thanks to the Board of the NAG, the full collection will once again be on view and accessible for members of both associations as well as the general public (the latter by appointment). In addition, the books belonging to the South West Trust will also be on display. These comprise the collections of Ron Yeo and Eric Bruton.

If anyone has any books they would like to donate, please feel free to contact me.

I would like to thank Johnny Roux, formerly of De Beers and a major contributor to the Diamond Diploma notes, for his recent donation of books and papers on diamonds.

To coincide with the completion of our move we will be holding an official opening event at 21 Ely Place between 6:00 and 8:30 pm on Tuesday 3 September. I hope that many of you will be able to drop in to join us in cutting the ribbon and to explore the new facilities. For those of you who can’t make it, we are always pleased to welcome you at any time, but many of the rooms will be in use. The building will also be open during our conference in November.

Details of the conference can be found in the Calendar opposite but yet another highlight is that Martin Rapaport is joining us both as a speaker at the Conference and to present the diplomas and give the address at our awards ceremony. In this, the 50th anniversary of the Diamond Diploma, I can think of no one better.

Welcome September will see two new members of staff at Gem-A. Miles Hoare will already be known to many of you not only as a contributor to G&J but also in his PR work for the NAG. Miles will be joining us specifically to work on social media and the development of our new website.

As the world becomes smaller with the development of IT we are finding that increasingly members are communicating with us and each other through relatively new mediums. We aim to make your experience as simple and easy as possible, so if you have any ideas of what you would like to see please contact Miles at miles@gem-a.com.

Julia Griffith, a former Bruton Medal winner, will join us as an intern to work on the historical and educational book and stone collections. She will also be assisting the teaching staff.

Both will be at IJL so please do come and say hello!

Show time!

The autumn show season is upon us. Gem-A will be exhibiting at IJL, the Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair and Gemworld Munich. Add to this the IRV conference at Loughborough and our own conference and it will be a busy few weeks. Some members ask me what the value of us attending these events is. All of them showcase our offering to the wider trade community and generate new business in terms of students for courses and sales of instruments. They also provide a tremendous opportunity to interact with you the member, especially those of you outside the UK. It's your

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Gem-A News and Views

association, so we are always pleased to meet you and hear your views about what we should be doing. Shows also give us the chance to see new developments in the trade, be it new treatments, cuts or marketing techniques. We aim to share our experiences with you and I would encourage all of you to do the same — reports from events we have been unable to attend are always welcome, so drop me a line.

What’s in a name?

I have already aluded to the name of the library here in Ely Place. This brought us to thinking about what to call the teaching rooms. Rooms 1, 2 and 3 seemed a little bland and calling them ‘Foundation’ or ‘Diploma’ again seemed a bit flat. What better then to name them after perhaps the most influential figures in their respective areas who caused the association and its courses to be what they are today. As is always the case, there are a number of individuals to choose from and there is bound to be some discussion, but I think the following will meet with approval.

Our Diploma classroom will be known as the ‘Herbert Smith Room’. Herbert Smith was President of the Association for many years, and was arguably the father of the

Diploma in Gemmology which is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. We even have his portrait to grace the room!

The Foundation classroom will be the ‘Robert Webster Room’. A tutor for many years and recipient of the Research Diploma in 1946, Webster worked in the Gem Testing Laboratory and wrote numerous books such as the Gemmologists’ Compendium, Practical Gemmology and Gems.

The Diamond classroom is to be the ‘Eric Bruon Room’. Founder of the Retail Jeweller and author of numerous books including Diamonds Eric Bruton was responsible for bringing the Diamond Course to London in the late 1960s and writing the first course notes.

Our Advanced Teaching room containing advanced testing and lab equipment will be named the ‘Basil Anderson Room’. As the stalwart of the Gem Testing Laboratory and Gem-A’s chief examiner, Anderson was one of the leading figures in gemmology of his generation.

New courses As a result of presentations at the CIBJO Congress in Tel Aviv followed by discussions during my visit to Melbourne Gem-A will shortly be offering courses in Corporate

Gem-A Calendar Gem Central and Career Service evenings Gem-A regrets that Gem Central and Career Service evenings have been cancelled until the autumn, with the first planned for 9 September. We apologize for any inconvenience caused, but this is due to our sudden move to our new headquarters at Ely Place. We look forward to inviting you to events in our new home and will announce dates as soon as possible. For further information please contact: events@gem-a.com

The Gem-A Conference 2013 2 and 3 November, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London A two-day conference to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Gemmology Diploma to be awarded and the 50th anniversary of the Diamond Diploma.

Confirmed speakers include John Bradshaw, David Callaghan, Dr John Emmett, Arthur Groom, Brian Jackson, Dr Jack Ogden and Gary Roskin.

For further details go to: www.gem-a.com/news--events/events/ gem-a-conference-(1).aspx

Social Responsibility (CSP) together with Branded Trust. These starter courses will introduce the indiviual to the concept of CSR and show them how to apply it to their business. The first course will be in October and the availability will be rolled out across Gem-A ATCs with the full backing of CIBJO. Anyone interested in the first courses should contact me directly.

So long, Jack Some of you may already know that Dr Jack Ogden will be leaving at the end of September. The next issue of Gems&Jewellery will be his last as editor and I'm sure he will sign off in his own unique, inimitable way.

Jack, as chief executive of both Gem-A and previously the NAG has had a great effect on both associations, not to mention their publications. His contribution to the study of jewellery and the trade in general is significant. He has also been a great ambassador for our trade and the UK. Jack has said he will continue to contribute to these pages and I’m sure he will be at many events in the future. However, for now, I would like to thank him both on behalf of the members and the association, and also personally; his friendship and advice have been invaluable to me.

Show Dates Gem-A will be exhibiting at the following shows:

IJL London 1 – 4 September 2013, Stand J94 Gem-A is proud to be a sponsor of IJL

Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair 13 – 17 September 2013 CEC Booth 3M046

Gemworld Munich 25 – 27 October 2013

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Gem News

Gem news Looking forward to the AsiaWorld-Expo and back at the Gem Lovers’ Conference Hong Kong

An iconic view of Hong Kong at night taken from the Star Ferry and looking back towards the Convention Centre. Copyright Gem-A, photo Jack Ogden.

Gem Lovers’ Conference Gem-A was well represented at the JTV Gem Lovers’ Conference held in Knoxville, Tennessee from 10–12 July. Billed as ‘Three Days of Nothing but Gemstones’, this unique event was aimed at gem enthusiasts among the public rather than gemmologists or the trade. This targeting of the public with gem and gemmological information is all part of the trend in modern selling, which encourages the provision of pertinent information to customers, and the opportunity for customers to interact with each other and staff. It is interesting to note that a major TV/online selling organization sees the benefit of arranging a ‘bricks and mortar’ venue for face to face interaction, while most wise ‘bricks and mortar’ sellers encourage such interaction online, typically using Facebook. The old mantra that a satisfied customer is your best salesperson

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is even more applicable today across all types business, and far easier to propagate.

In addition to Gem-A’s Andrew Fellows, Claire Mitchell, Jack Ogden and James Riley, and JTV’s own experts, speakers included Steve Arnold (‘The Meteorite

Inexpensive apatite rough among the bargain bowls of gems at the JTV Gem Lovers’ Conference. Copyright Gem-A, photo Jack Ogden.

This year’s September Fair, described as the world’s number one fine jewellery event, will be held from 11 to 15 September at AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) and from 13 to 17 September at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). This year is the 30th year of the show and will feature more than 3,500 exhibitors from 48 countries and regions. It is expected to bring in around 52,000 visitors from around the world — quite a change from the first show held in a hotel ballroom in Hong Kong with 100 exhibitors. Visitor pre-registration is now available and the Fair Mobile App should now be available for download at www.jewellerynetasia.com.

The September Hong Kong Show is one of Gem-A’s best international venues and we will be there again, booth 3M046 in the Convention Centre (CEC).

Man’), Gaetano Cavalieri (CIBJO), Terry and Cindy Chandler (Diamond Council of America), John Dyer (award-winning gem cutter), Patty Geolat (estate and vintage jewellery expert), Hayley Henning (The Tanzanite Foundation), Antoinette Matlins (gem and jewellery expert and author) and Shane McClure (GIA). A wide range of gems were on show — available for purchase — including a large selection of John Dyer’s cut stones and specimen examples of rough gems, including some remarkable tanzanite crystals. Also of course there were the popular bargain bowls of inexpensive gems and rough, some for under 50 cents a carat, which attracted participants including a few that showed remarkable patience and persistence in sorting through the thousands of gems in search of something special. The event was also a perfect opportunity to market the GemBasics introductory gemmology course written by Gem-A for sale by JTV.

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Gems and Minerals

Pennies from heaven: a market for meteorites

Meteorite hunter Steve Arnold explains his profession and passion to Jack Ogden.

Early on 15 February this year a previously undetected 10,000 ton meteorite entered the Earth’s atmosphere over Chelyabinsk Oblast in the southern Ural region of Russia. It was travelling at more than 40,000 mph and brighter than the Sun but then, still almost 15,000 miles above Earth, it exploded with an enormous shockwave and flash of light. It also produced a huge shower of meteorite fragments.

Want to buy one? Ask Steve Arnold with whom I caught up in Tennessee in July.

Steve describes himself as a meteor hunter and has co-starred with Geoffrey Notkin in the popular Science Channel TV show Meteorite Hunters which has completed three seasons, and has taken its two presenters to remarkable places — including North, South and Central America, Australia and, yes, Russia.

One can understand the allure of these bits of heavenly body, but how does such a passion start? Steve, who had originally studied business administration, told me that with him it all began with a book on metal detecting. He went to the library of the Kansas Historical Society to research places where he might discover things and was intrigued to learn about a local meteorite.

The realization then struck that meteorites could be picked up with a metal detector and that was it… he had found a fascinating way to earn a living and which, over the last 21 years, has taken him to some amazing places.

He showed me some examples of his inventory. It covered a wide range, and not just typical iron meteorites. There was a piece of moon rock. Not a bit of rock brought back from the moon, but a slice from a 760 g meteorite (officially called ‘NWA 6355’ in the Nomenclature Committee of the Meteoritical Society) that

Page 8

had been found in the Sahara in 2009 and proved to be a felspathic breccia blasted from the moon's surface by comet or asteroid impact. He had several samples of indochinite, a type of tektite natural glass found on the Indochina peninsula and around the Pacific region. This is black, not green like European moldavite. There were also pieces of the pale yellowish ‘Libyan desert glass’ — the same material as had been carved into a scarab amulet for the centre of one of Tutankhamun’s pendants.

Steve Arnold (right) with Geoffrey Notkin and a meteorite discovery in Kansas. Photograph by Sonny Clary © Aerolite Meteorites

As noted, metal detectors can be used to find meteors — and repeatedly since metal detectors are becoming increasingly powerful, so new ones can be used to advantage over areas previously investigated.

But the meteor hunter also has other ways of sniffing out his prey. If some finds from a particular meteor shower are known, trajectories can be calculated and likely find sites identified. Meteorites also show up on radar which allows the place where they land to be worked out, but, as Steve cautioned, wind plays a significant part.

Even CCTV security camera footage has proved useful. And, of course, there is the oldest approach — the eyewitness reports that range through history. Even Aboriginal legends have proved fruitful.

This is a reminder that picking up and trading meteorites is nothing new — there are ancient Egyptian beads made of meteoric iron and, as Steve explains, fragments of meteorite from Brenham, Kansas, have been found in native American burial mounds in Ohio incorporated into earrings.

Steve also showed me a piece of the so-called Gibeon Anvil, a slice from a 51 kg meteorite found in Namibia. This was one meteorite among the thousands recovered in the region from the breaking up of an iron asteroid in prehistoric times. Remarkably, when sliced the Gibeon Anvil was revealed to have a structure that shows it was extensively hammered — it had been used as an anvil by local tribespeople, perhaps many centuries ago.

Steve speaks with knowledge and enthusiasm as he recounts adventures and finds. Among the latter was the largest known fragment from Brenham — a pallasite meteorite weighing 650 kg. This attracted a lot of media attention and led to the TV series. Indeed the 2009 pilot for the series included a section on pallasite meteorites which ended at the Gemological Institute of America where John Koivula FGA explained how one could distinguish extraterrestrial olivine found in pallasitic meteorites from terrestrial olivine. Steve told me that he was now also aware of fake pallasite originating in Russia, proof that even in the rarefied field of meteor hunting gemmological skills can be useful.

For more information visit: http://www.meteoritemen.com/

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Gems and Minerals

Big gem trend Following his visits to BaselWorld 2013 in March and the JCK Las Vegas Show in June, in this issue Gary Roskin FGA talks about the trend this year towards larger wearable gems.

Don’t misunderstand the title, there’s nothing wrong with small jewels. But BIG seems to be the operative word these days as we have seen more than our fair share of large beautiful and important gems brought into the jewellery world.

To be clear, it’s not just about size.

Anyone can go out and find a large crystal, slap a few facets on it and call it a gem.

But it’s quite something else to find a large gemmy faceting-quality crystal, with saturated and pleasing colour, and then meticulously cut and polish it into a work of art.

From museum showcase to wearable jewellery Of course, we could talk about Crown Jewels and other museum delights but, for the Gems&Jewellery connoisseur, let’s bring size down to something a bit more affordable and wearable. This of course takes us to the most recent gem shows and the gems that we have for you here.

Pearls It wasn’t that long ago that single Australian white South Sea cultured pearls were impressive at 18 and 19 mm. But when you see Australia Pearls’ display (below)

Not pictured here, we were amazed to see Alain Boite holding a matching trio of 19 mm dark grey, very high lustre, no blemishes, Tahitian cultured pearls. While a pair would be considered an incredible match at this size, finding three is simply unheard of… well, until now, of course.

Jumping from saltwater into the freshwater ponds of China, Daniel Vecht of London Pearl displayed an incredible assortment of bead nucleated drops. Left he is pointing to a pair of drops measuring, 20 by 40+ mm. with a suite, a necklace and earrings layout of 25 impeccable 19 to 17 mm whites, perfectly round, very high lustre, with very few blemishes, we know that Mother Nature is outdoing herself.

Moving east to the French Polynesian Islands, the same phenomenon is happening.

Cultured Tahitian black pearls used to be considered ‘big’ at 12 to 13 mm. From Gellner, they were more than willing to model the incredible pearl ring seen top right, set with a 20.6 mm round, very high lustre, no blemishes, dark grey pearl with a rainbow of iridescent colours. The ring is platinum, accented by diamonds.

Dom Pedro For the extremely large, and in this case not wearable, look at the recent donation of the ‘Dom Pedro’ to the Smithsonian Institution’s Museum of Natural History’s Gems & Minerals Hall in Washington D.C. The Dom Pedro is a fabulous aquamarine that stands 35 cm tall, 10 cm wide at the base and weighs 10,363 ct. There is an exciting history of how Tom Munsteiner and Axel Henn purchased the rough aquamarine crystal, and brought it back to Germany for Bernd Munsteiner to create the incredible obelisk. Thanks to the generous gift by Jane Mitchell and Jeffery Bland, the Dom Pedro now stands before thousands of visitors to the museum every day. It truly is one of those beautiful magnificent BIG gems.

While we’d all love to wear fabulous big gems, we are very thankful that this one was not sawn into smaller wearable pieces. http://mineralsciences.si.edu/collections/dom-pedro/index.htm

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Gems and Minerals

Ametrines

In the natural pearl category, the Melo melo pearls from Ambra Greco of Milan were stunning as shown on the previous page, with this 27 mm, 45 ct ‘ball of fire’. This was one of the smaller gems in a necklace containing one thousand carats of Melos. The name of the necklace — as you may have guessed — is called ‘The Thousand Carats Necklace’.

I don’t believe I have ever seen quite as an amazing suite of ametrines as the one presented in Las Vegas by the Sabbagh Brothers, Brazil. Beautiful crystals (below), with the perfect carving to accent the colour division, from back left to right, weighing 164 ct, 144 ct and 165 ct. In the front row, the stone on the left is 140 ct, on the right 114 ct, and in the middle, the largest — and wearable — ametrine weighs in at 255 ct!

Tanzanite As rare as it is with only one known major deposit in the world, I am constantly surprised to see such vast quantities of very fine quality tanzanite offered in the trade.

However, it takes a sight holder like AG Color to really bring out the best of the best. Last year, we saw Sanjay Phophaliya offering a magnificent — and wearable — 400+ carat cushion cut. This year, brother Hemant was displaying a pair of briolettes with a total weight of 40.76 ct, alongside a pear shape weighing 60.53 ct (below). or yellow primary coloration. On the affordable side of large, Ruppenthal was displaying the trend, with a fine — and large — very slightly brownish, orangeypink pear-shape morganite, in a better than average quality — great lustre but noticeable blemishes — Tahitian cultured pearl and diamond necklace seen below.

Spinel There have been some amazing colours of fine quality spinels seen over the past few years, but nothing screamed so loudly as this 71.42 ct vivid red cabochon from Cicada Jewelry, New York (top right). The modern platinum necklace suspending the Burmese spinel was made up of over 53 ct of old-style cushion-cut diamonds.

Morganite There seems to be a fascination with morganite, the peachy coloured beryl.

We have seen only a small handful of very fine colour pinkish-orange, orangey-pink morganites, with most having more brown

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Brazilian rubelite I have always wondered how, or if, we are ever going to know completely whether or not the colour of rubelite — the red tourmaline — is actually untreated, natural colour. Getting huge assurances from the owners of the Miranda Group that these are indeed all Mother Nature’s doing, the trio of rubelites we saw weighed 19.91 ct (pear shape), 88. 42 ct (oval) and the cabochon weighing 99.38 ct! “Absolutely no heat and no irradiation!”

Aquamarine Have you noticed lately that everyone seems to have ‘original Santa Maria aquamarine’ material? I tend to look at country of origin this way; if it looks great, buy it and wear it. If we can prove the country of origin — great. That’s the added benefit. And we do know the origin of these three gems. From Nomads, we have three fabulous blue gems – a 12 x 10.5 x 10 mm triangular cushion Vietnamese deep vivid blue spinel, a fabulous

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Gems and Minerals

The best for last?

Padparadscha.

Marc Princ certainly had a beauty, a 28.24 ct no heat, Sri Lankan Padparadscha sapphire (right). The colour was spot on, with a terrific blend of pink and orange, not too saturated or dark. And definitely wearable. Whether or not it was affordable though, now that is the question. This was one of those pieces that I would say, “If you have to ask how much, you probably can’t afford it.” (Just so you know, it was definitely 7 figures!)

Cambodian medium-dark blue zircon and then the aquamarine — of Indian origin, a fabulous deep very slightly greenish blue, 27.9 x 21.1 mm emerald cut weighing 66.86 ct (all shown above). That’s my birthstone — I could wear that.

About the author Gary Roskin is the author of Photo Masters for Diamond Grading and hosts the online gem news magazine The Roskin Gem News Report. For more information please visit: www.roskingemnews.com.

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Recent Events

The Scottish Conference At the The Scottish Gemmological Association Conference 2013 at The Hydro, Peebles, in May, keynote speaker Chris Smith, president and owner of the American Gemological Laboratories (AGL), gave presentations on both spinel and tanzanite.

Here are the summaries of his talks.

Spinel This gemstone has had a long and illustrious history with famous examples including two in the English Crown Jewels (The ‘Black Prince’s Ruby’ in the State Crown and ‘Timur’s Ruby’ set in a necklace) and that in the Imperial Crown of Russia (‘Catherine the Great’s ruby’). Although Arab gemmologists were aware early on of the distinction between ruby and spinel, Chris suggested that the fall in esteem of spinel in the west was the result of this distinction being recognized in Europe in more recent times.

However, there is now a revival and over

the last 10 to 15 years spinel has become popular and prices are rising, a revival fuelled in part by the large rise in ruby prices.

The main regions that provide spinel are Asia and East Africa. Sri Lankan spinels, which tend to be a deep pinkish red were probably the first known, but Tajikistan spinels were in use by the Mughal period.

The Tajikistan spinel deposits, rediscovered in recent times, provide spinel of a consistent fine purplish pink. Red spinel is also found in Mogok, Burma, and Chris suggested that, on the basis of colour, this area may have supplied the so-call Black Prince’s Ruby.

The transparency of some Tanzanian spinels may be improved by heating in the relatively higher temperature range of 950 to 1150°C, which reduces the concentration of tiny pinpoint particles.

Photomicrograph by Christopher P. Smith, AGL.

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When spinel is heated above approximately 750°C, a disordering of the lattice may be recorded using photoluminescence spectroscopy. The strongly structured chromium emission bands become significantly broadened, with a shift in the position of the primary emission band.

In East Africa, spinel was first discovered in Tanzania in the 1970s, but from 2007 onwards provided some very fine spinels which greatly impacted the market. The colour of the East African spinels is not quite as good as Burmese reds and pinks, and those from the Mahenge district tend to have clouds of particles and planar dislocations.

In the late 1980s spinel was discovered in Vietnam at Luc Yen. After a decrease in exports, production here is now growing again. The spinel is found in marbles and also in alluvial deposits and, as in Sri Lanka, artisanal mining here allows longer exploitation and greater benefit to the wider community.

Some beautiful blue violet spinel is found here and there is also a small but stable production of rare cobalt blue spinel.

In Vietnam spinel there are snow flake-like inclusions and columnar etch tubes which can be aligned or criss-crossing.

The red and pink shades of spinel are due to chromium and iron, those with more iron becoming orangey. Blue is caused by cobalt and, when iron and/or

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Recent Events

Tanzanite Chris Smith admitted that for some time tanzanite didn’t inspire or challenge him gemmologically. Although tanzanite holds fourth place in coloured gem sales globally, imitations of it are easy to spot and everybody knew that most are heated. In 2007 however, cobalt-coated tanzanites appeared on the market and it was the examination of these that inspired Chris to take a closer look at tanzanite in general. Coating was fairly easy to detect, lacked durability and was a relatively short-lived treatment in USA, although still sometimes encountered in the UK. The main challenge with tanzanite is to determine which has been heated and which has not. Tanzanite is defined as the blue variety of zoisite. Most of the zoisite mined in the Merelani hills of Tanzania is brown which can be heated to produce blue tanzanite. There is also some pink zoisite found — thulite. Between about 12% and 15% of the zoisite mined at Merelani is blue. For the purposes of his research, including heating experiments, Chris divided samples of the Merelani mine output into three groups — beer-bottle brown, blue with brownish pleochroism in one direction and blue with no pleochroism. Heating turns the brown component blue. It is assumed that the natural blue tanzanite has been heated in the ground — although the mechanism is not fully understood — and thus shows similar internal characteristics to the heattreated material. Study of the inclusions in A wide range of beautiful colours occur in spinel. Today the historical sources of Ceylon (Sri Lanka), Burma (Myanmar) and the Pamir Mountains in Tajikistan are complemented by fine gems coming from modern sources of Tanzania and Vietnam, as well as Kenya and Madagascar. Photograph by Bilal Mahmood, AGL.

chromium are present with the cobalt, violet shades result.

Until recently spinel was never treated, but this has now changed. Clarity enhancement in the form of oil fillers has been noted and some Mahenge material is now heated. Heating to around 950– 1150°C generally has had little effect on colour but it removes concentrations of the particles thereby improving clarity. However, recently Chris has had the opportunity to examine some fine red Mahenge spinels

which show evidence of heating at a lower temperature that might have modified the colour. Research is underway. The band broadening seen with photoluminescence and Raman spectroscopy, which can characterize spinels treated at higher temperatures, seems to be absent with those heated at lower temperatures.

Chris’s experiments with heating purplish spinel showed no change and he doubts that anyone would risk heat-treating rare cobalt-blue spinel.

For one group of the natural-colour tanzanite, a strong trichroism with pleochroic colours of blue, purple and a mustard-yellow can help to identify unheated tanzanite, as seen in this oriented polished cube.

Photograph by Bilal Mahmood, AGL.

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Recent Events

brownish pleochrosim in one direction has not been heated.

Chris noted that there now seems to be a price premium on unheated tanzanite and that retailers and dealers would benefit from seeing gem mining — such as tanzanite mining — in action to gain an idea of just how much material has to be mined to obtain usable gems.

This group of natural-colour tanzanites was collected by Christopher Smith directly from the mine-run of the TanzaniteOne mining operation in the Merelani Hills of Northern Tanzania.

Photograph by Bilal Mahmood, AGL.

the natural and heat-treated blue tanzanite provided little clear guidance as to which was which. Spectrographic studies were carried out on oriented polished cubes using FTIR, Raman and UV-vis, and paramagnetic resonance. The results with the as-mined and heat-treated materials

showed that there was not a definitive way to distinguish naturally blue and heat-treated blue using spectrometry when brownish pleochroism is absent, although a possible indication of reduction in the hydroxyl region as seen using FTIR is being researched further. However, tanzanite that shows

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Polarized UV/Vis/NIR absorption spectroscopy records the changes upon heating zoisite to transform the brown coloration into that of tanzanite.

The most significant changes are recorded along the gamma-ray, where a band centred at about 455 nm is completely removed and the absorption edge shifts into the UV region of the spectrum, creating a transmission window in the greenishblue region of the visible spectrum.

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

Gems in Germany With inexpensive flights within Europe as well as a great location, the Gemworld exhibition in Munich (this year 25 – 27 October) has become a magnet for gem dealers and gemmologists, and gem lovers in general. And, of course, Gem-A will exhibit there again this year. Rebekka Fründt of The Munich Show talks about the event and encourages you to visit. We can add that there are also the restaurants, beer and museums of Munich to tempt you — in total, a perfect weekend!

This autumn sees the fifth Gemworld Munich. The trade fair for gemstones and jewellery has become well known in Europe with exhibitors and visitors regarding it as a major event in the year.

It has over 300 international exhibitors from 30 nations and attracts around 6,000 visitors — with jewellers, goldsmiths, designers and dealers being able to choose from a top-class range of products. The assortment offered at Gemworld includes raw material, cut gemstones and accessories as well as finished jewellery and jewellery collections.

The range of exhibitors at Gemworld demonstrates both its high quality and international nature. In the gemstone sector, dealers from Thailand, India, Hong Kong, Brazil and elsewhere offer high quality coloured gemstones, and use Gemworld Munich to meet and supply their European customers. Names like Sara Gem, Leopard Gems, IMAGEM, Fantasia Jewellery, Opalinda and Timeless Opals have become regulars at Munich. Renowned European companies like Rubin & Son N.V., Sky Systems and Trendwerkk are key exhibitors.

Gemworld 2013 The pavilion concept offers visitors a well-structured layout where companies present their goods in exclusive and elegant surroundings. The ICA Pavilion, the only one at a European show, houses companies such as Dynamic International, Aurora Gems and German Salazar. Well-known German names, mainly from the gemstone region Idar-Oberstein — Paul Wild OHG, Henn GmbH, Cameo Roth and Atelier Munsteiner for example — all gather at the Gemworld Pavilion. The Brazilian Pavilion, which was established last year, achieved resounding success with trade visitors and dealers and maintains growth this year; the hosts expect a total of 10 exhibitors from the Brazilian region Minas Gerais. New names like JS Gems and OTF Gems join last year’s exhibitors such as RC Gemas Ltda. and BC Gemas Do Brasil Ltda. In addition to these, a Sri Lanka Pavilion will be launched this year and companies like The Choice and Shyam Jewellers can be found there.

Other large international companies showing at this year’s Gemworld Munich include Gerhard Hahn Pearl AG, Horst Lang e.K., Albert Tsang Ltd., Arteluna S.A.S., Opalos Mina Las Cruces and

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

Opal Pacific Ltd. Overall there is an increase in exhibitors on last year showing that Gemworld is gaining in prestige and is becoming and obligatory marketplace.

This year the hosts of Gemworld continue to concentrate on the promotion of budding jewellery designers and goldsmiths with the launch of the New Design Forum. Here, this new talent will be given the chance to exhibit and sell their creations at subsidized rates.

Those who graduated from an international university, academy or training school, who are less than 35 years old and who work with precious metal and/or gemstones, will receive a stand at the Forum.

The aim is to create a platform that allows young and undiscovered craftspeople to reach an international professional public. Gemworld is a great opportunity to make contacts, do business, get in touch with other designers and exchange experiences. Additionally, Young Designers’ Corner will take place again this year. This European jewellery design competition for students and graduates was launched at Gemworld last year. Newcomers will benefit from a top quality showroom to present their pieces and collections of jewellery. From all participants, an independent expert jury will select the best three budding designers who will receive a trophy, money and free stand at Gemworld 2014.

Gemworld Munich is also a platform for numerous associations.

Representatives of ICA, DMF, the Gemmology Association of Turkey, Tanzanite Foundation, Gem-A and German Gemmological Association will welcome you to their stands. The independent testing facilities of the Institute for Gemstone Testing and the German Gemmological Association offer visitors on-site testing of gemstones and an extensive consulting service.

Why visit?

The European trade appreciates Gemworld as an ideal purchase channel. Firstly, Gemworld Munich is well-timed, giving buyers the opportunity to restock before Christmas trade starts and to learn about the new trends for the upcoming season. Secondly, many European shows focus on big brands and lifestyle products but Gemworld Munich is an exception as it offers a profitable platform for smaller exhibitors from the gemstone sector. Therefore, European purchasers profit from a varied and international range of goods available, just a few hours’ travellng time from most European centres. An excellent infrastructure and a modern trade fair centre guarantee an uncomplicated and comfortable visit.

Gemworld is part of The Munich Show Mineralientage München, which is Europe’s leading trade fair for minerals, gemstones and fossils and welcomes 1,250 exhibitors and 40,000 visitors every year. This autumn, the show celebrates its 50th anniversary and appropriate to this occasion the mineral section of the show will exhibit the world’s best and most extraordinary crystalline gold and gold nuggets. In addition Fossilworld assembles the Golden Discoveries of Palaeontology; the most renowned museums and private collectors open their archives and bring spectacular objects of unique worth to Munich.

Gemworld Munich is a three-day event that takes place from 25 to 27 October 2013. On Friday it is open for trade visitors only, while over the weekend the trade fair centre will be open to the public as well. Trade visitors can buy tickets at reduced prices online: www.gemworldmunich.com, where you can also find additional information.

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

Amazing Amber in Scotland The National Museums of Scotland are hosting a special exhibition (closing 8 September this year) entitled ‘Amazing Amber’. It is curated by the internationally renowned amber expert, Dr Andrew Ross, who holds the position of principal curator of invertebrate palaeobiology at the museum. Maggie Campbell Pedersen FGA paid a visit to the exhibition.

I had the pleasure of being shown round the exhibition by Dr Ross himself — and I felt like a kid in a candy shop. Not only are there 320 items on display, but 75% of them have never been shown before. They belong mostly to the museum itself, but a few are on loan from other places, notably the Natural History Museum in London.

Cattle charm: This amber pebble, on a silver chain, would have been dipped in the drinking water of sick cattle, in the belief that it would cure them. A spell would have been chanted as the pebble entered the water. The inscription on the silver disc reads, “A gift from Angus Macdonald, Bridge of Coe, to H.McC. 1845”.

Image © National Museums Scotland.

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The first thing you see on entering is the huge piece of Burmese amber which belongs to the Natural History Museum, but here it is displayed on a specially built stand so that its sheer size is immediately apparent.

There is a small area near the entrance which is devoted to the history of amber in

Scotland, with examples of belt buckles and such like. This part is curated by Dr Alison Sheridan, principal curator of early history.

It is very interesting, and puts the material into its practical context as well as telling us a little about Scotland.

However by far the largest part of the exhibition is devoted to the resins themselves. The raw amber on display includes samples from the Baltic, Mexico, the Dominican Republic, Australia, Italy, Spain, France, Japan, Burma and other South East Asian countries, Romania, and real UK amber (not the variety washed here from the Baltic). Many of the ambers are not suitable for carving or making into jewellery, but they are totally fascinating in their own right.

The ‘bugs in amber’ are prominent in the exhibition. There are displays along the walls where examples of flora and fauna in ambers from various countries can be viewed beside a large photograph of the same flower part or insect. Light box tables down the centre of the room also display amber samples with inclusions, and here they can be viewed through a magnifier.

This area was clearly extremely fascinating to visiting children, who were also able to touch a couple of large samples of amber that had been put out for that purpose — and worn smooth by inquisitive fingers.

Another small interactive part was a quiz,

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

Westness brooch-pin: This pin, made of gilded silver, with insets of amber and red glass and panels of gold filigree, was found in the ninth-century grave of a Viking woman in Orkney. This particularly fine brooch had originally been made up to a century earlier, and it may have been stolen during a Viking raid in Scotland or Ireland, or else given to a Viking as a gift.

Image © National Museums Scotland.

where the public can see five samples of included amber and guess whether they are real, or whether they have had the insects inserted afterwards and are fakes.

Fakes and imitations are also well represented, with examples of early plastic necklaces, present day plastic imitations and treated ambers. Perhaps the most interesting sample was a Chinese carved bottle, about eight inches tall, from the eighteenth century. It had originally been thought to be a rather magnificent example of carved red amber, but it is very even in colour and is strangely flat, so it aroused suspicions. It is not hollowed out but has a straight conical hole down the centre. When tested it proved to be Baltic amber, pressed and dyed. But according to Dr Ross the age is known to be correct, which means that, in China, amber has been dyed and pressed for over 200 years.

A very worrying exhibit is a small piece of ‘amber’ with an insect inclusion. The insect is a house fly, and is embedded in copal

which has been hardened. We are aware of this being done to copal to make it resemble Baltic amber, but examples with insect inclusions are new on the market. The big question is how is it done without destroying the insect?

The exhibition took three years to organise, and is a resounding success. Visitor figures for the first two months were almost 22,000.

The gallery is light and bright, the displays clearly labelled and well-lit.

In order to use enough light for the public to see the exhibits but not damage the amber, all the display cases were specially built and hermetically sealed containing oxygen scavengers. This means that the lights can be brighter without causing the samples to oxidize.

Unfortunately it seems that the exhibition will not go on tour, as this is very costly and would be complicated to accomplish, especially with the custom-built display cases which cannot be readily moved. Nor can the exhibition be extended in Edinburgh

Carved skull: This piece of Mexican amber has been carved into a skull, probably for the tourist market rather than the Mexican Day of the Dead ceremony. Image © National Museums Scotland.

as there is another exhibition due to follow in the same rooms at the museum.

If you can manage a visit before it closes, do so — it is a beautiful exhibition.

Extinct parasitic wasp: In the mid-1990s, studies of insects in Burmese amber shed new light on their likely age. The amber was previously dated to between 35 and 55 million years old, but the research showed that some of the inclusions belonged to extinct families only known from the Cretaceous Period, such as this parasitic wasp (Hymenoptera: Serphitidae). A study published in 2012 dated the Burmese amber bed as 99 million years old. Image © National Museums Scotland

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

International Jewellery London — the focus on gems The UK’s premier fine jewellery show IJL is almost upon us. Opening on Sunday 1 September and running until Wednesday 4 September, it is a focal point of Britain’s jewellery year attracting trade buyers from all over the UK and increasingly those from Europe and the rest of the world.

2. ‘Autumn stones.’ A small selection of the coloured stone beads available at Marcia Lanyon (IJL Stand K58). Photo © Marcia Lanyon Ltd.

1. Visitors entering IJL 2012.

Photo © Reed Exhibitions Ltd.

IJL stands for International Jewellery London and it is indeed both London-based and increasingly international. The show prides itself on its wide selection of high quality, design-led jewellery and also the range and depth of the accompanying seminars.

This is an industry in which one never stops learning and continuous professional development is a necessity not a luxury.

3. Coloured stone beads are always popular with buyers. Photo © Reed Exhibitions Ltd.

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The exhibitors range across designers, manufacturers, importers and gem and pearl dealers, plus allied services such as education, tools and equipment, and gem labs. Visitors are very much geared up to buy (1). A visitor survey at the IJL 2012 revealed that two thirds had placed orders at the show and, remarkably, more than a third of visitors said they did not attend any other jewellery trade shows.

Gem-A has had a long association with IJL, with active input on the advisory panel over many years as well as close contact with the organizing staff. Looking forward to this year’s show it is good to see that there will be a wonderful range of gems and gem-set jewellery to see. There are the long-established UK-based exhibitors such as A E Ward & Son Ltd (Stand J81), Joias

(Stand J71), Marcia Lanyon Ltd (Stand K58), Marcus McCallum FGA (Stand J31) and Apsara (Stand J29), who between them exhibit a truly huge range of loose coloured gemstones and beads (2) — Joias describes its stand as a ‘loose gem wonderland’.

Coloured stone beads are always a big draw at IJL (3). Apsara will be showing unheated rubies, sapphires and an interesting range of spinels, garnets (4), tourmalines and other gems.

New UK exhibitors with a gem focus include Flower & Maricar Ltd (Stand I99) with such pieces as a pair of large natural yellow sapphire and diamond earrings (5).

4 A tsavorite garnet from Apsara Ltd (IJL Stand J29). Photo © Apsara Ltd.

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

The yellow sapphires weigh 32 ct. From the USA come several new exhibitors, including Bluestar Global Inc. from New York. They are long-established tanzanite cutters and exhibit a range of loose and mounted stones, including tanzanite and diamond rings (6).

For many visitors a key factor in their decision to attend IJL is the variety of free seminars (7). These cover many different topics, from hiring the right staff to making best use of social media, from buying to gem ID — and how to break into foreign

5. A pair of natural yellow sapphire and diamond earrings from Flower & Maricar Ltd (IJL Stand I99).

Photo © Flower & Maricar Ltd.

markets. Gem-A will be providing two seminars. On 1 September (16:15 – 17:15, Whitehall Room) Gem-A instructors Claire Mitchell and Andrew Fellows will present ‘Colourless with confidence’, explaining how to tell a colourless diamond from a cubic zirconia, synthetic moissanite or other diamond simulants. Such differentiation can be a challenge, but it needn’t be if you know how... On 2 September (15:45 – 16:45, Whitehall Room) Jack Ogden will be talking about the growing public interest in coloured gems, and how this can help retailers engage customers and maintain margins. To profit from the coloured gem market jewellers need a strategy to choose gems, to train staff and to be prepared for the various challenges involved.

This presentation will tell you how.

6. Tanzanite and diamond rings from Bluestar Global (IJL Stand J119). Photo © Bluestar Global Inc.

Gem-A will again sponsor the GemEmpathy Award at IJL. The winning exhibitor will be given publicity in Gems&Jewellery as well as a free full-page advertisement.

Gem-A has always advocated that gem-set jewellery should be designed to show the gemstones to their best advantage, so the Gem-Empathy Award will be presented to the IJL exhibitor displaying, in the opinion of the judges, a single piece or collection of jewellery that makes captivating use of one or more gemstones. Gem-A’s criteria for the award will include accurate and honest descriptions as well as creativity, imagination and attractiveness.

The inclusion of ‘accurate and honest descriptions’ among the Gem-Empathy Award criteria is a reminder that not all descriptions at IJL — or any other jewellery show — are correct. At IJL we’ve seen everything from downright dishonesty (imitations sold as real) to what might best be described as deliberate economy with

the truth, particularly where treatment disclosure is concerned. The only real advice to buyers is to know enough about gems to be able to ask probing questions, and move on to the next stand if you are unsatisfied with the answer.

If you have questions about gems you are offered at IJL, or want some advice as to the probing questions you should ask the sellers, come along to our stand J94 and attend our seminars. We can also tell you all about our comprehensive gemeducation programmes, from one-day seminars to our internationally acclaimed Gemmology Diploma Course. Our subsidiary trading arm, Gemmological Instruments Ltd, will be showing our wide range of gemmological equipment and books — with show specials. See you there.

You can pre-register for IJL at http://www.jewellerylondon.com/. This site also provides a full list of exhibitors, events and other information about the show.

7. A seminar at IJL in full swing.

Photo © Reed Exhibitions Ltd.

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2013

Stone Scoop

Egg whites, fish-frying and copulating gnats Jack Ogden tells of fun with amber in the eighteenth century.

Maggie Campbell Pedersen mentions an eighteenth-century example of Chinese pressed and dyed amber (page 18). The Chinese weren’t alone; eighteenth century Europeans were up to all sorts of tricks…

Egg recipes Most eighteenth and seventeenth-century recipes for imitation amber consist of yokes or whites of egg mixed with various types of resin or gum, but a simple one was: “Take whites of eggs; beat them well, then put them into a vessel with strong white wine vinegar, stop it close; let it stand 14 days, then dry it in the shade and it will be like Amber.”

However, then as now, more sophisticated trickery involved adapting natural amber.

All creatures great and small To soften yellow amber you could put it into hot melted wax and then “you may make things thereof of what form and fashion you please”. If you melted amber in turpentine you could “cast it into any figure, with flies or any small animals in it, as is seen in those valuable pieces of Amber sold at a great price…” People were intrigued by the presence of insects and other fauna and flora trapped in amber. A long article in The Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society in 1749 discussed them at some length, listing the wide variety of insects so found, but expressing some doubt about the genuineness of “more perfect Animals being found buried in Amber, [such] as Frogs, Lizards, and small Fishes”.

Insex But even with the insects there was debate as to how they got into the amber. The

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1749 author, who had listed the types of insects he had seen in amber, pointed out that insects could well be trapped on sticky amber, but how could they be completely immersed without a huge struggle? Some of course “seem as if they were struggling, or expanding their Wings, in order to get away” but the majority seemed simply “languid, sleepy, or drowsy”. He suggested that the insects had been coated while asleep and that, indeed, most of those he had observed in amber were of the “kind that retires into Caverns to sleep”.

So, in his opinion, the active insects “are obliged to suffer the same Fate with those that are asleep, but… leave the Tokens of their having been awake, by a more lively and animated Representation of their Bodies”. He somewhat cryptically adds: “But I don’t think, that such a Vivacity as is required in Coition, is at all suitable to that subterraneous Habitation, and therefore I would be very apt to suspect those, who shew Flies and Knats copulating together in Amber, as wanting only to put a Trick upon me.”

Right from wrong Clearly there was a need to distinguish “creatures which are buried in Amber by Nature, from those which are inclosed in it by Art”. Ways to tell, in addition to signs of struggle, included the positioning of the creatures relative to the surface of the amber (“those which are done by Art are in

the Middle of the Piece for the Workers in Amber could not conceal the Artifice so well if they hollowed the Amber near its Surface”) and also the presence of fissures: “If you observe the Amber too in which Insects are buried to be solid, pure, without any Fissures in it, or distinct Crusts, you may know that it is not the Work of Nature.”

Frying The clarification of amber was also carried out. In a 1742 article, The Society of Gentlemen explained how pieces of amber could be heated in oil so that “they may be heighten’d to clearness and transparency”.

Supposedly the process had been discovered by accident. “A workman lately happen’d to let drop out of his hands into a boiling kettle of fish a globe of amber, Which remaining in the liquor till the fish was done, and being before somewhat more obscure, now came out sparkling and shining.” Temperature and suitable cooling time was important or else the amber would revert to its cloudier state.

Not seeing the wood for the seas Nevertheless, despite the acquaintance with imitation and modified amber, people were still very unsure what amber was. That it was a hardened tree resin had been proposed at least as early as Roman times, but that was not universally accepted in the eighteenth century. One man writing in Philosophical Transactions in 1747 was adamant: “I absolutely deny that Amber is the resinous Juice of a Tree.” He gives several reasons, the first, of elegant simplicity, being that amber is often found floating in the sea but “Trees are not very near the Sea.”

Join us at STAND J31

MARCUS MCCALLUM

FGA

PRECIOUS STONES, BEADS & PEARLS

A wide range of precious and semi-precious stones, beads and freshwater pearls, personally selected from around the world.

U n u s u a l s t o n e s a s p e c i a l i t y.

ROOM 27-31, NEW HOUSE 67-68 HATTON GARDEN, LONDON EC1N 8 JY TELEPHONE: +44(0)20 7405 2169 FACSIMILE: +44(0)20 7405 9385 email:info@marcusmccallum.com

www.marcusmccallum.com

A N I H C MS E G

ᇅ ᄞ | ൎ З ‫ݛ‬ {ᇗ ϔ͇ ⤍჊ ੳ ‫ݝ‬ 䰣ਜ਼ ⴠ႓ ϻ჊ 䕍ੳ‫▢ ݝ‬ᙌ ϻ‫ ݣ‬ь๔⮱ ᰭ ߬‫ݝ‬ 䊸 ⮱

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Future Trends

Black rhodium plated silver, rubber and Swarovski gems. Zlaterna Ceje, Slovenia

Colours: an electric rainbow fusing multicoloured tones – a fantasy palette in which strong pinks meet acid yellows.

Cuts: Unconventional, upside-down stones, huge round beads, petal shapes, cabochons, minerals that look like dollops of cream…

Keywords: unisex, electric, silicone, naturalmeets-artificial, playful

Colours: subtle and sophisticated greygreens, with delicate and soft greys and jade greens – plus a startling touch of lacquer red and black.

Cuts: natural, sliced, polished and silvered pieces of quartz, roughly cut minerals with a multi-faceted mirror effect, unique cuts and shapes that are central to contemporary craft jewellery.

Keywords: airy, frozen, tactile, polished

Gold plated brass and Swarovski zirconia and marquisate. Neva, Hong Kong

Silver and Swarovski gems.

Belatriz, Brazil

Colours: earth tones meet synthetic infra-hues. Brilliant shades of amethyst, turquoise, ruby and coral. Full saturated and solid colours that are deeply pigmented.

Cuts: oversized gems or clusters of smaller, irregular gems, stylised geometric forms that create a chic, modernist look.

Keywords: hand-made, artistic, encrusted, eclectic, opulent, imperfections

Gold plated brass and Swarovski zirconia.

Rommanel, Brazil

Minimal East The influence of Asia and its jewel-hungry new markets, sees a move towards a simpler, more contemporary Zen-like style.

It’s a contemplative trend that re-examines cultural roots, with an underlying theme that comes from nature.

Silver and Swarovski zirconia.

Hong Kong Galaxy Jewellery, China

Eldorado Remix A union of two hot-blooded countries – South Africa and Brazil. Vibrant, rich, tribal and ethnic influences from both places – as well as their spirit and energy – mingle to create jewellery that is sculptural, powerful and modern.

To celebrate its partnership with IJL, during the month of September Adorn Insight is delighted to offer all new subscribers 15 months’ access to its strategic market intelligence and trend analysis information for the price of an annual subscription (that’s three months free!). To find out more contact: info@adorn-insight.com quoting ‘IJLSPECIAL’. Offer valid until 30th September 2013.

I

The Voice of the Industry 39

A grand Finale As IJL prepares to raise the roof for the last time at its Earls Court home, we offer a snapshot preview of the new launches, first-time exhibitors and myriad highlights that the show has to offer. ell, this time next year we’ll be heralding the IJL show in its new home, Olympia, so the event this year promises to go off with a pretty big bang as it says goodbye to Earls Court. As ever, with the final countdown well underway, the organisers, exhibitors and participants are ramping up the excitement levels with the expected new launches, brand debuts, catwalk shows, seminars, product trails… The perennial question is, will there be enough time to see, hear and do it all?

Sponsored by Bering Time, the Watch Trail will feature key brands, innovative technology and the latest styles. International manufacturers and distributers include BQ Watches, the Peers Hardy Group, Storm, Bering Time, DMJ and Unique (with brands Candino, Festina, Lotus and Oxygen). New to the show this year is the new Danish

W

40 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

brand, Larsen Watches which is showing a selection of high-quality Danish-designed watches inspired by Scandinavian minimalism and functionality.

Jenny Llewellyn

An ever-popular sector of the show is the Design Gallery with the array of designers for which the UK jewellery market is justifiably renowned. This year names like Sarah Ho of SHO Fine Jewellery, Sarah Jordan, Dinny Hall, Dower & Hall, Missoma, Alexis Dove and Tomasz Donocik will be joined by a host of international designers such as Iluminada Mendes, Aines, Olga Ribler and Mukhi Sisters.

As always, international pavilions and stands are welcome additions to the show and this year there are two more. The best of US design will be coming to IJL for the first time with a ‘US Design Trail’, in partnership with IJL’s sister show in Las Vegas, JCK. It will allow visitors to easily find American talent and cutting-edge collections of silver and fine jewellery. The route will take in such names as Christopher Designs with its

IJL Preview |

Euan McWhirter

patented diamond cut; Danhov showing hand-crafted wedding and engagement rings and organic pieces from La Corza by Sabo Designs. Others hoping to break into the UK market place include Meira T, Heskia Brothers and Scholdt Design. Another ‘country’ stand will exhibit collections from Danish brands including the ethical jewellery design group 1 People, ByBiehl (with its ‘pod’ based interchangeable jewellery) and Earstyles (wrap-around sterling silver ear pieces).

Now in its fifth year KickStart provides a useful way for visitors to discover new design talent as it is launched. The bursary scheme is run by IJL and supported by the BJA and each year 10 designers are selected as ones to watch for the future and come together on one stand at the show (C51). In a new twist to the initiative, earlier in the year a ‘People’s Choice’ vote saw one of the group selected to receive a free stand at IJL

2014 and the lucky winner was Jenny Llewellyn with her silicon and precious metal jewellery. Other KickStarters who will be unveiling their work are: Anna Byers, Sara Gunn, Annabelle Lucilla, Catherine Budd, Christiana Christoforou, Katie Jamieson, Phoebe Jewellery, Kattri and Rosie Sanders.

Were you one of those visitors to IJL 2012 who took home one of Weston Beamor’s little resin ‘Cheeky Chimps’ (created using WB’s 3D scanner and printer)? If so you may be wondering where they all went on their holidays over the past 12 months. Ponder no longer – the company’s stand (G141) will include an exhibition of over 50 entries received for its photography competition.

The most original and interesting snap of a chimp on his travels (sent before 31st October) will win its photographer a Samsung Galaxy camera while the runner-up will receive a pair of sterling silver chimp cufflinks.

IJL — all you need to know at a glance • 600 exhibitors: fine jewellery, silver jewellery, designer brands, Design Gallery, precious stones, gems and jewellery solutions • New features: Best of US Design and The Danish Pavilion • Four days of inspirational seminars • IJL Runway: a catwalk show focussing on emerging trends as identified by Adorn Insight • Support programmes and awards: KickStart, Bright Young Gems, F Hinds High Street

by Design Competition and Lonmin Design Innovation Awards Venue: Earls Court 2, Warwick Road, London SW5 9TA Date: 1st – 4th September, 2013 Opening times: Sunday 1st: 10am – 6pm; Monday 2nd and Tuesday 3rd: 9am – 6pm Wednesday 4th: 9am – 4pm (last entry at 3pm) IJL will be running a complimentary bus service to the show, from both Hatton Garden and the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter. Seats will be reserved on a first come, first booked basis: 020 8910 7968 Pre-registration is free for members of the jewellery trade: www.jewellerylondon.com/register or contact the ticket hotline: 0845 218 6030.

If you can find time between working the aisles, trend gathering and networking, we would heartily recommend taking in one or two of the free-to-attend seminars.

IJL’s website – www.jewellerylondon.com – outlines the full programme, but among the highlights is a consumer panel on ‘What Women Want’ featuring Missoma and chaired by brand strategy consultant Judy Deuchar; Rapaport’s unmissable and hugely popular ‘Diamond Report’ and Astley Clarke’s talk on ‘Establishing your Business

The NAG at IJL • A long-standing supporter of IJL, the NAG will, of course, have a stand at the show (I109) and we invite you all to drop by and visit the team which will be there in full force over the four days of the show.

• There will be an opportunity to discover more about the Association and its member services at 3.30pm on Sunday; you can meet The Jeweller team on Monday at 2.30pm; the NAG’s Design Service will be presented by Yasmin Moss at 2.30pm on Tuesday.

• For a chance to unwind, each day we will be hosting a drinks reception on our stand: Sunday 5 – 6pm; Monday 1.30 – 2.30pm; Tuesday 4.30 – 5pm (in the Victoria Room, following the EGM) and Wednesday 2.30 – 3.30pm.

identity’. Other topics on offer during the event include how to win Chinese tourists’ spend; visual merchandising, security and safety; the history of fake jewellery; profiting from coloured gemstones (with Gem-A’s Jack Ogden) and a guide to making final decisions for Christmas (with Michael Allchin, CEO of the Birmingham Assay office).

Like we said… it’s going to be busy!

We hope to see you there.

Story by Kranz & Ziegler

The Voice of the Industry 41

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IJL 2013

Look Book THE NEWCOMERS If you’re looking for something a little different, IJL has attracted a great number of newcomers this year. Some of the designers and brands are using the show as a launch pad; others are established names but first-time exhibitors. Here’s our pick of the bunch…

Auren

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A new brand from the Rodgers & Rodgers stable, Auren will be making its debut at the show. With an emphasis on a more fashion-forward look with the use of more precious stones and materials, the designs are daring, eclectic and playful. Among the inspirations for the new collection is the Art Deco period, as well as ‘alchemy and mysticism’ and the geometric art of ancient Greece. While precious, the pieces have also been designed to be wearable.

Stand C19

Quinn

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Gia Belloni

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Established in 1903, this German jewellery brand comprises several distinctive collections, including C.C.C., its patented triple ring system (‘Choose, Combine and Collect’), as well as timeless Classics; silver timepieces and the gemstone line, Colors. Shown here are gold earrings set with coloured stones.

Stand F48

Hatton Garden-based designer Gia Belloni works with precious metals and a variety of gemstones, to create ‘wearable and flattering’ jewellery for ‘modern, stylish women’.

Inspiration often comes from myths and legends, which adds a talismanic appeal to her pieces; the feminine mythology that surrounds bees lies behind her new ‘Colony’ collection in gold, silver and black rhodium.

Stand D38

Euan McWhirter See image p40 The combination of traditional techniques and cutting-edge design is the hallmark of Euan’s work, which encompasses Swarovski stones, natural coloured stones and cultured pearls.

Inspiration is drawn from strong female characters in history, as well as mythology and pop culture and at IJL the former Bright Young Gem will be launching his new collection – Pop. Stand D49

42 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

Aijade

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The Oriental jewellery brand has partnered with an award-winning designer and silversmith to create a new collection called ‘A-Round’ – inspired by the idea that jade ‘has travelled here from thousands of years ago’.

An ‘object-maker’ rather than traditional jeweller, Jackie continues to bring a contemporary twist to the Oriental tradition of jade artistry, using a mix of rubies, sapphires, rare coloured jade and other gemstones for pendants, necklaces, bracelets and earrings.

Stand C49

the magic touch of

RED!

Sterling Silver

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EARLS COURT • BOOTH E51 VIVENTY UK . PO Box 13 . Midhurst West Sussex GU29 9YP . Telephone +44 (0)1730 815 995 info@viventy.co.uk . www.viventy.eu

IJL Preview |

Eleuterio

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From the Crystal Filigree collection (which also includes a ring and pendant) come these rose gold earrings set with 304 diamonds and crystal cabouchons.

Stand H139

Djula

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Based in Paris Saint-Germain this fine jewellery brand offers around 400 designs including 18ct gold and diamond-encrusted bracelets, pendants and earrings. Launched for the first time is the new men’s line, providing a a more daring, rock’n’roll edge to the dainty lace and Art Deco style women’s collections.

Stand G89

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Aines

Created by Spanish designer Aines Fernandez Azanza – a hand-made contemporary jewellery collection in silver, gold, copper and brass set with coloured gemstones. The very expressive pieces take their inspiration from forms and ideas as diverse as olives and cubes, oil and twigs.

Stand B38

Anna Lou

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Central to Anna’s brand’s ethos are fashion forward accessories which are steeped in British heritage with her own particular take on materials and design. To maintain a luxurious feel she works with 18ct rose gold, gold-plated silver and sterling silver and has recently launched a bespoke service.

Stand C15

Kate Chell Jewellery

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Inspired by the discovery of some sea glass on a north Norfolk beach, Kate Chell went on to spend seven years learning the silversmith’s craft, before launching her jewellery business earlier this year. Working chiefly in silver, but occasionally with gold highlights, her melted and hammered pieces have an organic, natural feel and are often complemented by rough cut gemstones.

Stand D33

The Voice of the Industry 45

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Maya Magal is an eponymous hand-made jewellery brand based in Hatton Garden.

Having trained under an Oxford jeweller, Maya released her first collection 'MY' this year. The brand has distinguished itself by the use of precious stones and gems sourced from around the world, often rough-cut with natural finishes – always set in sterling silver.

Stand C70

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Via Seres

Via Seres Art Jewels of London is a new jewellery design company launching at IJL with its debut line, ‘Mousai’. Via Seres takes the inspiration for its collections from rediscovered artworks of ancient cultures – as in this relief image of a sea nymph named Larissa, wife of Poseidon. Originality, authenticity and romance are at the heart of the designs. The jewellery is delicately crafted with hand made glass cameos, sterling silver and natural diamonds.

Stand D50

Elena Brennan

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Gossamer Petals & Pearls jewellery by designer and wax modeller Elena Brennan celebrates the beauty of nature. Snow white pearls nestle in petals of sterling silver for an ultra-feminine and very intricate look, from eye-catching statement pieces to more delicate bracelets and pendants.

Stand C21

Saxons of Oxford

Established in 2012 by award-winning designer Jorg Schlieffers, this brand brings a fresh, innovative perspective to jewellery that has its roots in a high-tech industry.

Untried and difficult concepts are seen as a challenge, for pieces that are impactive as well as elegant and combine digital artistry with traditional craftsmanship. The Man in a Cage from the Insider collection is one such example.

Stand B42

Carat

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The new Power Pearls collection is a departure for CARAT – the first time in the company’s history where the use of synthetic pearls has been introduced. The collection consists of pendants, necklaces, rings and earrings that are set in sterling silver and adorned with man-made diamondcolour gemstones.

Stand G60

46 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

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Maya Magal

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SEE US AT IJL STAND H81 H.W. Tankel (Scotland) Ltd, 33A Gordon Street, Glasgow G1 3PF Tel: 0141 226 2200 • Fax: 0141 221 3040 • Email: enquiries@tankel.co.uk www.tankel.co.uk

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Oxygen and Lotus L from Unique Launched in France in 2011 this fashion watch brand revolves around the concept of interchangeable nylon NATO straps (switched in seconds, no tools required). The ‘Sport’ and ‘Diver’ models are in stainless steel and are waterproof to 100m and the straps – in a variety of plain and striped colours – can be sold separately. Young, on-trend but with an elegant edge, Lotus watches range from the casual or sporty, to the urban and chic.

Stand E129

Anomy

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Engelsrufer from Unique Sarah Brown

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Hailing from an island off the west coast of Scotland, Sarah aims to portray the endless detail that can be found in such a breathtaking natural environment.

Focussing on the rugged coastline and the island’s flora and fauna she creates collections of evocative pieces that embody a sense of curiosity and of the unknown.

Stand D32

48 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

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Created by Katerina Marmagioli this collection was born out of the designer’s travelling and life experiences and fuses ‘classic quality with contemporary anarchy’ for pieces that ‘avoid clichés’. Her provocative jewellery can be worn in different ways, with a variety of pearls and stones being central to the story.

Stand C32

Meaning ‘angel whisperer’ this is a German sterling silver collection. With the help of colourful sound balls the wearer will be able to call her guardian angel to her side to help her in all situations. The sound balls are available in different colours and some are set with crystals and these have a different symbolic meaning. Each is handmade and has a slightly different and individual sound.

Also available in yellow or rose gold plating.

Stand E121

Creel Collection NEW DESIGNS

Look for the tiny silver Groatie Buckie (Arctic Cowrie shell) caught inside some designs, these are said to bring good luck to the keeper.

COME AND SEE US AT IJL - Stand No. A69

1st - 4th September 2013 7HO _ (PDLO LQIR#VKHLODĂ HHW FRP

Designed and Made in Orkney, Scotland ZZZ VKHLODĂ HHW FRP

O R K N E Y

D E S I G N E R

J E W E L L E R Y

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IJL 2013

Look Book THE VETERANS Tankel

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The Glasgow based company’s one carat solitaire diamond ring remains its best selling item in 2013. Offering certificated diamonds at well below current market prices means that customers are offered genuinely superb value for money. Tankel does not buy diamonds with certificates, but selects the stones that it knows will certificate well, ensuring that customers have a huge price advantage.

Stand H81

Viventy

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The autumn collection from this premium silver jewellery brand has an emphasis on warm tones with rose gold PVD pieces. The more classic looks in the line are balanced by trendled models, but all show the expected attention to detail, supported by beautiful packaging and a plethora of POS material.

Stand E51

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Unique Jewelry

Geometric forms such as circles are combined with flowers and leaves to create interesting organic three-dimensional, contemporary pieces in sterling silver. Most of the designs feature a plain matte finish, with some items plated in rose gold or complemented by freshwater pearls.

Colourful leather with stainless steel clasps and small details such as crystal balls and pearls, give a young urban look to bracelets.

Stand E121

Peers Hardy

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This year the group will be showing all their watch brands – from the totally OTT, exuberant Betsy Johnson line to the technologically advanced, sporty Sector No Limits watches. Also in the portfolio: Cross Watches, Ice Watch, the preppy Daniel Wellington, the Brit fashion brand Radley, Bocchia Titanium, fun and affordable Kahuna and a selection of kids’ watches.

Stand G108

The Voice of the Industry 51

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Fiorelli by Gecko

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London Road

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Among the seven collections being launched by Gecko is Fiorelli Costume – a ‘fiercely feminine’ range of everyday, wearable pieces with more than a touch of gothic glamour.

Rich embellishment and intricate design details are key features for decorative necklaces, tough-luxe cuffs and edgy earrings.

Stand F31

IJL sees the launch of the Coronation collection. As part of the Burlington range, this regal line features colourful chequer cut amethyst, blue topaz and garnet in a fancy claw setting and comprises a pendant, earrings and ring in 9ct yellow or white gold.

Additions to existing collections include new Layered Leaf earrings and pendant with textured solid gold leaves individually linked and layered to create an articulated and natural looking effect.

Stand G129

This season’s collection of Diamond Ring Mounts (DRM) features 149 new designs, a third of which are new. The DRM line is constantly refreshed and updated to reflect current trends and sales patterns and the new collection’s styles encompass everything from classic solitaires through to more flamboyant lifestyle items. Styles encompass round and princess stones, as well as offering mounts to take more unusually shaped diamonds and multi-stone designs.

Stand G141

52 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

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Water being a favourite theme of designer Lucy Quartermaine, this IJL will see the launch of two new sterling silver collections: Wave and Umbrella. Capturing the motion and energy of the ocean’s waves, the former line introduces Swarovski crystals for the first time – they appear as drops of water resting on the surface. Included in the playful (and very English) Umbrella line are a pendant, ring and earrings.

Stand C39

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Domino

Lucy Q

Mounir

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New from Mounir for 2013 is the Sunflower collection which features a variety of faceted gemstones. As shown here these include purple amethyst, green amethyst and lemon quartz and they can be set in vermeil, sterling silver and antique finish silver. Also included in the collection are earrings, rings and bracelets.

Stand B39

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Tresor Paris

Launching this season are some 300 new designs in the crystal collections as well as others inspired by Parisian chic (with a touch of modern opulence and nostalgic decadence thrown in). Also seeing its debut will be a new diamond range introducing extravagant bespoke designs and an exclusive new diamond cut.

Stand E39

Lily & Lotty

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The ‘Message Collection’ is among the new lines being unveiled by this British silver and diamond jewellery brand. ‘Live, love, laugh’, ‘my shining star’ and ‘loving you’ are among the messages featured – so ideal gift choices.

As well as love and romance, nature is a strong theme, with butterflies, flowers and dragonflies making an appearance on the rhodium-coated jewellery.

Stand B111

Tomasz Donocik

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In the wake of scooping two awards at the Couture show in Las Vegas earlier this year, Donocik is launching a new collection – ‘Shard’ – at IJL. With the same edgy attitude as his previous ‘Rising Star’ line, the pieces feature darts in silver, gold and black on different bands and are designed to appeal to both the men’s and women’s markets.

Stand B23

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Alexis Dove

As well as her new Aphrodite collection, inspired by ancient Greece, Alexis will be revealing the latest additions to her bestselling Curio range. This includes this cute Vintage Bunny – the perfect piece for a trinket and keepsake cabinet of curiosities.

Stand A61

Diamonfire Storm

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This year Storm will be showcasing watches with multi-layered dials, rotating second wheels, automatic movements and floating Swarovski crystals in both slate and rose gold finishes (such as the ‘Varenna’ watch shown here).

Stand G110

54 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

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At IJL Diamonfire will preview its Spring 2014 yellow stone collection, as well as Christmas promotional pieces. These will sit alongside the current new Bridal and 10 Collection pieces, which includes jewellery such as rings, necklaces and tiaras to complement wedding dresses. Stand F110

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The original Whitby jet manufacturer is presenting a collection of sterling silver jet and marcasite jewellery – contemporary pieces which have been influenced by traditional designs. Also new will be the Contemporary Jet collection featuring the fluid ‘Liquid’ range and the organic-looking ‘Caged Heart’ designs, both of which are available in yellow gold as well as sterling silver.

Stand G71

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Having just graduated from her jewellery studies, Rebecca Sellors has joined the company as its new designer. Specialising in CAD/CAM designing, Rebecca will be presenting her award-winning, Art Deco-inspired ‘Cabaret Collection’, created in platinum and Whitby jet, as well ‘Flore’ which includes this yellow gold and turquoise piece made using laser sintering technology. Also at the show, CW Sellors will launch its partnership with Italian brand Cameo Italiano.

Boulevard G71

Babette Wasserman

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Kleshna

CW Sellors

Taking as inspiration the popular Art Deco era, British brand Kleshna is launching a collection of jewellery featuring angular crystal bars contrasting with glass faux pearls, metallic balls and crystal-encrusted beads. The headline piece is the statement ‘Garbo’ necklace with its ladder-effect drop finished with a Swarovski Element crystal.

Stand A28

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W Hamond

The new collection is all about strong shapes, elegant metalwork and an ultra feminine feel. Earthy, nature-inspired forms, cut-out details and twisted metals all add to the organic feel.

Stand F61

Rachel Entwistle

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Brown & Newirth

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Four core ranges make up the new collection for 2013/14, all in keeping with Rachel’s signature design ethos – an exploration of ‘the far corners of our physical and spiritual landscapes, our past and our nature’. The Milagros line includes strong symbols such as crosses, a star, a moon, a snake biting its tail… Stand A48

IJL will see the launch of the second Pink Champagne collection – white diamonds set in specially developed 18 ct pink gold for wedding, engagement and eternity rings.

Stand G61

56 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS Representing Jewellery Retailers since 1894

JETPlus

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERS’ MANAGEMENT DIPLOMA

THIS INNOVATIVE DISTANCE LEARNING COURSE HAS BEEN COMPLETELY REVISED AND UPDATED WITH A REFRESHING NEW FORMAT 7KH SHUIHFW FRXUVH IRU VXSHUYLVRUV team leaders and junior managers in the jewellery industry looking to develop and progress.

The course is divided into six core modules: 1. Managing Me 2. Managing Performance 3. Developing Others 4. Getting the Right People 5. Leadership 6. Customer Care

JETPlus has been designed for those DSSRLQWHG WR WKHLU ÀUVW PDQDJHPHQW SRVLWLRQ RU KDYH DVSLUDWLRQV IRU promotion. It will equip them with the essential skills that they will need WR PDQDJH HIIHFWLYHO\ JETPlus is an ideal follow on from JET 1 & 2, and a useful stage to FRPSOHWH EHIRUH PRYLQJ RQ WR -(73UR 7KH EHQHÀWV RI FRPSOHWLQJ -(73OXV DUH HQRUPRXV WR ERWK WKH LQGLYLGXDO and the business.

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Please contact the N.A.G. Education Department to request your copy of the prospectus.

Tel: 020 7613 4445 (ext.1) Email: education@jewellers-online.org Course fees can be found on enrolment forms which can be downloaded at: www.jewellers-online.org/pages/education-courses.php COMMITTED TO SETTING AND MAINTAINING PROFESSIONAL AND ETHICAL STANDARDS

IJL Preview | L

Gemex

At IJL Gemex will be showcasing no less than 50 new additions to Cherish, its new signature range of luxury engagement rings, set with certificated round brilliant or fancy cut diamonds with micro-claw shoulders and halos. Because there is an exact matching band for every ring in the collection, retail partners will be able to upsell two rings on one visit… without the need to make a shaped-to-fit design.

Stand C19

Ti Sento L

Covering all bases, this line includes neck and wristwear in classic silver, contemporary stainless steel and leather, with rugged texture and directional patterns being the main focus.

Stand F31

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Carrs

The Sheffield manufacturer's new Carrs Collection 2014 includes an ensemble of sterling silver and silver-plated gifts, table accessories and cutlery with specially selected top designs hand-finished with colourful enamelling. Highlights in the children's gift range include an ‘abc’ enamelled frame and matching keepsake box and honey jar and tooth fairy keepsake boxes where the injection of colour is particularly effective.

Stand E11

Tivon Fine Jewellery

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Inspired by Italian romance (and in particular the city of Florence) the new Bella Vista collection which draws upon the Renaissance details that can be seen in many of the buildings and bridges there. The colour black plays a key role – black stones are used in several shapes, often in combination with rose-gold-plated details. Pavé set bangles and rings, along with pyramid-shaped stones are also part of the line.

Stand F141

Bering Time

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Fred Bennett

by Gecko

An interesting departure from the expected icy coolness of Bering watches is the new range in brown ceramic and rose gold – a warm and sensual combination. The on-trend colour story is completed by an iridescent mother-of-pearl face inset with Swarovski Elements and, as with all Bering models, the ceramic is scratch-resistant.

Stand F131

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Lestie Lee

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Well-known for its tanzanite jewellery, Tivon will demonstrate its move further and further into luxury gemstone jewellery of all varieties. At the show the company will be introducing many of its new 50th anniversary creations for the first time.

These diamond and rubelite earrings in white gold are from the Sunset collection.

Stand H129

The award-winning fine jewellery designer is introducing her Halo collection, which focusses on geometric shapes while following her signature style of clean symmetrical lines.

Shown here are her cushion stack rings.

Stand D47

The Voice of the Industry 59

| IJL Preview

My iMenso

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Whether to match mood or outfit, this interchangeable coin system collection can personalise every last detail, including name and photo engraving or layering up to four coins or ‘insignia’. Creating a further point of difference is the fact that every piece in the line is made from sterling silver and is also available in yellow and rose gold plate versions.

Stand E121

Deakin & Francis

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These bright and beautiful silver and enamel hummingbird cufflinks are among some of the new pieces being introduced by this long established, family-owned British brand. Equally distinctive are silver (animal) skull cufflinks, and another pair taking the form of visored motorcycle helmets.

Stand H88

IJL 2013

Look Book ETHICAL EXHIBITORS L

Arabel Lebrusan

To complement her existing friendship bracelets, ethical jeweller Arabel introduces a new collection of long necklaces with little filigree rosette and heart motifs – in silver as well as gold plated. The new Bow collection will feature vintage feel, ‘oversized-cute’ large filigree bows for rings, stud and drop earrings and a necklace.

Stand B44

Chavin

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Chavin Jewellery will be launching its Paisley themed collections, with designs that build on the successful filigree patterns from previous lines, showing Hearts, Stars and the Jaguar, the ancient and mysterious icon of the Chavin brand. Its design-led, powerfully feminine jewellery is inspired by the mythology, vibrant colours and craftsmanship of the ancient Peruvian Chavin civilisation.

Through its official partnership with charity, SOS Children, the brand helps families in Peru, torn apart by poverty.

Stand D10

60 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

1 People

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Part of the Danish Group 1 People ‘pursues the most innovative and fair ways to do business… conducting it in an ethical manner’. All materials are produced according to sustainable principles and the jewellery is made from recycled gold and silver, set with man-made gemstones ‘so nature is not compromised’. The company works with small producers from different developing countries.

Stand F136

| IJL Feature

Brand Profile SHO Fine Jewellery Among the abundance of design talent to be found at Earl’s Court is one particular British brand that, despite its tender years, appears to grow in stature and reputation with every passing season. ulti award-winning SHO Fine Jewellery – an IJL regular since it was launched

by Sarah Ho in 2006 – has taken the ‘classic with a contemporary twist’ design ethos and run with it, each of the new collections telling a story inspired by chapters in Sarah’s own life. Born in Hong Kong, raised in Macau and educated in London, the trained goldsmith and gemmologist has a strong family heritage to draw upon (her mother, Suki, was a model, Bond Girl and dated Rolling Stone Brian Jones; her casino-owning grandfather, Stanley Ho was nicknamed the ‘King of Gambling’) as well as a passion for fashion – which she studied – and architecture.

New design directions aside, in this relatively short space of time, SHO has developed and expanded considerably, with new concepts added periodically – a reaction to market forces as well as to her particular inspirations and experiences. “But we feel that we have grown organically – it takes time to establish a brand and we have always stayed true to the value of ours,” says Ho. “It’s really all about having fun with fine jewellery… plus a playful use of colour.”

One perfect example of this judicious expansion is the new Golden Mirage collection which will be launched at the show. Created using a brand new technique, called ‘protofusion’, it’s a collection of bold, yet feminine, pieces that are very light, delicate and comfortable to wear. While they are obviously precious – using highly polished 18ct white or rose gold with brilliant cut white and cognac diamonds – and impactive, the state-of-the-art production method offers good price points for retailers.

Later this year a version of the design incorporating pearls will be added.

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62 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

What began with a bespoke ring for a friend, followed by further commissions, has led to another new direction for SHO – the introduction of the brand’s first ever men’s collection, which will be introduced at IJL. Called DK30 it revolves around two lines: Union cufflinks and rings in white gold with princess cut diamonds, rubies or sapphires and Knight cufflinks in 18ct white gold with a textured finish. And while the stylish rings do not look like commitment rings, they could clearly sit comfortably in this market.

Given the birth of the royal baby boy, the timing of this new line is impeccable and (SHO would like it to be known) the collection names – Union and Knight – were already in place before Prince George made his appearance!

While SHO was conceived as an 18ct gold brand, in 2008 Ho identified a trend in the market towards sterling silver jewellery and that year she added silver and silver vermeil pieces. “But we see all our jewellery

as fine jewellery and the collections have always been well-received by customers,” she explains. The English country gardeninspired Florabella collection, set with coloured gemstones and pale pink pearls, was unveiled at IJL 2012. Since then the sterling silver offer has been extended to include the Mari, Crop Circle and Clementina Ring collections .

To provide a platform for her one-off masterpieces (and, one imagines, to allow Ho total freedom of creativity) 2011 saw the launch of Sarah Ho Couture. The Paradis Earrings in platinum and 18ct rose gold set with diamonds and conch pearls are honoured in IJL’s ‘Editor’s Choice’ this year.

Inspired by these exquisite earrings, the Paradis Collection is the most recent addition to the SHO 18ct gold collections.

The line is feminine with gentle flowing lines of diamonds that add a contemporary twist to the classic design. Included in the range are Feathered Earrings and matching Pendant, Plume Earstuds and matching Ring, Plume Hoop Earrings (which sit against the ear) and the Feather Boule and Feather Band Rings.

Underpinning the flourishing of exciting new design ideas is the brand’s keen desire to work closely with jewellery retailers to build relationships. “We don’t see it purely as a sales exercise; we want companies we work with to love our brand and the staff to love selling it,” says Ho. As well as supplying point of sale and packaging SHO also offers staff training where Ho meets the staff and chats about herself and her inspiration. An increase in sales regularly follows these visits. It’s a SHO thing…

Visit SHO Fine Jewellery on Stand: E70

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| Business Support: Insurance

Take cover at the show Show season is upon us and, as excitement mounts in the run-up to the UK’s own premier jewellery event, the thoughts of those planning to be there, either as exhibitor or visitor, will inevitably be focussed on something other than insurance, as Neil McFarlane of TH March explains. f the many thousands of people who attend IJL and other such trade events, a high proportion will be retailers who have had to travel considerable distances away from home and business.

With thoughts focussed on emerging design trends, spotting new opportunities and ideas, networking, socialising, meeting suppliers or purchasing stock, it is easy to understand why some forget about the insurance implications of attending such large events.

However, before setting off, boring though it may seem, it is well worth taking time to check on all aspects of your insurance protection. Consider for example, what or who you may take to the show with you; laptop, mobile, ipad, your own personal possessions, members of staff. Also, what have you left behind – is your home and business secure?

Take the laptop for example: a necessary piece of equipment if you are to conduct business efficiently while away from home. But is it your personal possession or does it belong to the business? If the latter, it may be that it will not be insured when it is away from your business premises. It is well worth checking as appropriate cover is easily arranged and readily available at minimal cost.

Ensuring that you have adequate cover now may save you a major headache later on.

Personally owned property can be easily insured as an extension to your home insurance under a standard extension which provides cover for personal possessions outside the home. This would give you protection, for example, in the event of loss or theft of items from your hotel room, from a parked car or even items stolen from you while you are at an event.

However, be aware that some policies either exclude cover for property left in unattended vehicles or require that the property is kept locked in the boot or glove box.

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64 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

Such claims do arise on a fairly regular basis and events such as jewellery industry trade fairs, despite stringent security measures, can be a magnet for thieves. One TH March client, while attending an overseas event, had reason to be extremely pleased that he had heeded advice and arranged appropriate cover when he became a victim of theft at a trade show.

His briefcase had been stolen when it was briefly placed on the floor while he was talking to an exhibitor at a trade stand. Unfortunately it held his laptop, mobile phone, wallet, credit cards, plane tickets and various other items. However, having the right insurance cover meant that what could have been a disaster costing him thousands of pounds was

instead scaled down to a (still significant) inconvenience because it was all covered for an annual premium of less than £20!

Of course visitors to shows are not the only people who require appropriate insurance cover at trade events. Exhibitors are every bit as vulnerable as the visiting buyer, if not more so. Problems can often arise for exhibitors because they have misunderstood the level of cover afforded by their business insurance policy. As explained earlier, the policy that covers you at your place of work may not necessarily protect you at a trade show.

Here are a few important aspects that it is worthwhile checking: • Stock and trade stands and fixtures and fittings: Check that your policy extends to cover attendance at trade exhibitions and if so, is the extension sufficient to cover the values at risk?

If the limits are inadequate, at best the amount of the claim will be based upon this limit, thus leaving you out of pocket. At worst, your entire claim could be refused.

• Loss of Profits: Make sure that your policy covers you for loss of profits that may arise as a result of problems at the show. Most policies will not cover this as standard and a specific extension will be required. Such cover is not widely available but some insurers provide it.

What if, for example, you have stock stolen or your stand was damaged while at the show and this led to you incurring a loss of profits arising from the event. This is an insurable risk but you must always inform your insurers that you are attending events. Imagine what would happen if the event was cancelled or abandoned due to a problem at the venue? One thing is certain; you would most definitely be out of pocket.

Insurance is available from several markets to cover the ‘irrecoverable expenses’ incurred if an event is unavoidably postponed, abandoned, cancelled or relocated as a direct result of an occurrence that is entirely beyond your control, provided the cause is by a peril covered under the policy.

As ever, whether visiting an event as a buyer or exhibitor make sure that you have adequate cover for all eventualities and if you are not sure, check with your insurance provider or broker beforehand.

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The Voice of the Industry 65

| Antique Jewellery

Antique JEWELLERY Viking Jewellery In this issue Amy Oliver focusses on the jewellery of the Viking world and its meaning within ancient Scandinavian culture. rom the outset it might be worthwhile to clarify who the Vikings actually were. The term ‘Viking’ didn’t originally refer to an entire people from Scandinavia (Sweden, Denmark and Norway) and Iceland, but rather was a general term used for pirates. Later in the 10th century AD the name was used for the Scandinavian sea-faring raiders who attacked Britain and other lands from the coast. Now of course even those Scandinavians who settled in Britain during the Dark Ages are labelled as Vikings.

Most Scandinavian jewellery – especially that worn every day – served not only as decorative items, but also had a functional purpose. Pieces such as brooches and pins were commonly worn by both men and women of all social levels; these items could be fairly plain or particularly ornate, but almost all were used to hold pieces of clothing together. The same mixture of functionality and decoration can be seen in other items such as belt buckles. Other less functional – but more recognisable to us as jewellery – would be rings, necklaces and pendants, bracelets and armlets.

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brooches of the moderately well-off could be made of bronze and other copper alloys, and those of the wealthy were cast in silver or gold (or alloys thereof). Silver was used as the primary metal after the 9th century as gold became scarcer.

If a person wished to have the appearance of wealth without the price tag, tin brooches could be gilded with gold or silver.

Interestingly, some women would wear brooches made from the stolen treasure brought back after an overseas raid to show how successful their husband was!

Most brooches were circular or oval in shape, though the two-armed symmetrical,

trefoil and stylised animal brooches were also very common. Women especially often wore two oval or disc-shaped brooches, one on either shoulder, which were connected by a chain. Hanging from this chain you’d find all sorts of implements; from knives and scissors, to keys, sewing needles and combs (there were no pockets in Viking clothing – a bit of an oversight?). Some wealthier women also hung strings of beads between the brooches. Men would have worn their brooches on the right shoulder so their cloaks would be gathered there, leaving the right arm free to wield a sword or an axe.

There were some brooches that definitely weren’t functional but were a way to display wealth in a very obvious fashion. Throughout the 9th and 10th centuries display brooches became larger and more elaborate. These would be huge items made of precious metal which would have been way too cumbersome to actually hold any piece of clothing together. For example, one story from Iceland tells of a poet who was rewarded for his writing with a brooch of pure silver weighing 1½ stone! It was so valuable that he sold it for enough money to buy a huge farm.

Styles and Motifs There are a number of different styles of Viking art identified, which were used in jewellery making. Most feature animals of some kind. Osberg and Borre styles (9th century AD) are of intertwined animals –

Brooches Brooches are by far the most common pieces of jewellery found throughout the Viking world. From the poorest peasant to the wealthiest chieftain, everyone wore a brooch. For those at the lower end of the scale, these pins would hardly be classed by us as jewellery, as they were often selfcarved from animal bone. However, the

66 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

Viking brooches from the Penrith Hoard, British Museum

Antique Jewellery | symbols of the mother-goddess Freyja representing fertility. Vikings were not just pirates and raiders, but master seamen and traders, and are particularly well known for their trading with Arabia and Russia. From their trade expeditions Vikings had access to materials such as cornelian, amethyst, garnet and rock crystal, and metals such as silver, bronze and gold.

Beads were very valuable and expensive in the Viking world, as the making of flameworked beads was a long and delicate process which took time and dedication to learn, as did the handcrafting of beads of stone. The more complex the design, the longer it took to produce and so the more valuable it would be. We can understand, therefore, why beads were a status symbol, as much revered as any precious stone today. In fact, beads were often passed down to children and other relatives through the generations. When Vikings went

Interestingly, some women would wear brooches made from the stolen treasure brought back after an overseas raid to show how successful their husband was!

Viking brooches, British Museum

usually ferocious beasts like bears and wolves, no doubt denoting strength and power – gripping and clawing each other. The Jelling style comprises animals bent in ‘S’ shapes around one another to form a kind of laced pattern. Mammen motifs include lions, birds and serpents, and Ringerike patterns also have lions, but with plants and tendrils interspersed with them.

these are extremely difficult to produce as it requires a small glass bead to be covered in an incredibly thin layer of gold or silver foil, then overlaid again with clear glass. Beads could be circular, tubular, square, flat or oval.

It was not only beads of glass that were sought after, but those of gemstones and metals as well. Native amber and jet were used for bead making, and considered to be

Beads Other than being known for their fine metal work, the Viking craftspeople also had a great tradition of flame-worked glass beads.

Beads could range in quality, from single colour circular varieties, to multi-coloured, patterned and textured beads: ‘eye’ beads were covered in raised dots and complex mosaic beads were made by layering slithers of different coloured glass over one another. Even foil beads have been found –

Viking gold brooch, Museum Haithabu, Germany

on raids, beads were just as valued in among all the other treasure looted. And beads are some of the most common archaeological finds in pre-Christian Viking burials (before 10th century AD). It must be said that although men could wear beaded jewellery, women wore the majority of it.

In Viking graves, men may have a bead attached to a belt or on top of a sword to indicate their wealth and status, but most bead necklaces and pendants are found in the graves of women.

An example of the value of beaded jewellery is reflected in an archaeological find made in Norway. A 9th century AD treasure hoard was excavated (the Vikings, like other northern European cultures, would often bury large collections of treasure and money to keep it safe in case of invasion or attack, or even just as a kind of primitive savings account!) which was very unusual

The Voice of the Industry 67

| Antique Jewellery would find this of great comfort. Some fine silver examples from around the 10th century AD have been found, though in previous centuries amulets were more commonly made in bronze, iron and amber. It has been suggested that Thor’s Hammer amulets found in the 10th century were being made and worn by pagan Vikings as a rebellious act against the spreading of Christianity in Scandinavia and the rest of northern Europe.

Jewellery as currency

Reconstruction of a Viking woman’s dress

in two ways. Firstly, it was almost entirely composed of gold. Gold was very valuable to the Vikings as in many cultures, but treasure hoards in Scandinavia almost never contained gold as it was too expensive, but rather silver items. Secondly, along with the gold items was a highly-wrought beaded necklace.

The necklace was strung with a range of patterned, shaped and coloured glass beads, as well as beads of cornelian, with gold plaques and an Arabian coin attached.

For this necklace to be included with a hoard of gold, it must have been deemed incredibly valuable, almost irreplaceable.

The Viking reverence for beads is best summed up in a quote made by an Arabian trader in the 10th century: “Vikings will go to any lengths to get hold of coloured beads.”

Viking Neck Ring, Silver, Walters Art Museum

68 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

If the worst came to the worst for a hard-up Viking, a swift chop to a family heirloom with a battle axe could always be relied upon to save the day!

Amulets and grave goods While beads are a common find in Viking burials, amulets in the Viking era were also often found used as grave goods, perhaps to protect the deceased person in the afterlife.

In particular, amulets made of jet and amber have been found in many graves. In those of men, amulets in the shape of axes and adzes (similar to an axe, but the blade is mounted horizontally rather than vertically) are associated by some archaeologists with the god of thunder, Thor. In women’s graves, amulets in the shape of vulvas have been recovered, strengthening the link between the fertility and mother-goddess Freyja.

A specific type of amulet, Thor’s Hammer, seems to have been a popular jewellery item.

Thor represented strength, virility and protection. Given his association with thunder, a Thor’s Hammer amulet may have been worn to defend against bad weather – understandably a sailor faced with stormy seas

As mentioned in my introduction, jewellery was often functional as well as decorative.

Other than holding clothes together, some jewellery was also carried as a type of currency. Coins from Arabia, the British Isles, and all over Europe were often strung together as a necklace or bracelet, which could, if necessary, be broken up in a time of need to pay for debts, items or people (the Vikings kept slaves). Not only this, but the coin jewellery acted as a particularly obvious, if slightly vulgar, example of the wealth of the individual wearing it. Coins themselves were also often melted down to be remade into other pieces of jewellery.

Similarly, neck-rings and arm bands made of bronze, silver or gold were worn by the wellto-do as a type of portable bullion.

In summary…

So, in short, Viking jewellery was a display of not only wealth and status, but also of success in raids; precious metals and glass beads were held to be of equal value and, if the worst came to the worst for a hard-up Viking, a swift chop to a family heirloom with a battle axe could always be relied upon to save the day!

Reference • The Vikings by Robert Wernick, Time-Life Books. 1979.

• www.vikinganswerlady.com/vikbeads.shtml • Myths of the Pagan North: The Gods of the Norsemen by Christopher Abram • Women in the Viking Age by Judith Jesch • Vikings by Tracey Ann Schofield • The Vikings: the British Museum, London, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, James Graham-Campbell, Dafydd Kidd • Dress in Anglo-Saxon England

by Gale R. Owen-Crocker • Icelanders in the Viking Age: The People of the Sagas by William R. Short • www.shelaghlewins.com/reenactment/ viking_womans_outfit/viking_womans_outfit.htm

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The CMJ holds two trade shows every year along with training events and a business conference. The CMJ’s executive team can provide expert advice on all aspects of your business and our supportive network of retail members right across the UK and Ireland are here to help independent retail jewellers.

We are here to help. So why not find out how we can help you?

Find out more at masterjewellers.co.uk or by ringing the CMJ’s membership services manager Lucy Hill on 01788 540250.

| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Exhibitions September 14th September-24th February 2014 Masterpieces, Sainsbury Centre, Norwich Around 250 objects, including jewellery, that this region has inspired, produced and collected – from antiquity to the present day. www.scva.ac.uk 21st September-19th January 2014 Pearls exhibition at the V&A An exhibition exploring the history of pearls from the early Roman Empire through to the present day. www.vam.ac.uk 23rd-29th: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2 Week one of this selling exhibition of jewellery, silver and precious objects by leading and emerging jewellers and silversmiths.

Visit the website for lists of designers. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk 25th-29th: Lapada Art & Antiques Fair, Berkley Square, London W1 Jewellery, watches, clocks, silver and objects of virtue will be among the highlights of this year’s Lapada fair. www.lapadalondon.co.uk October 1st-6th: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2 Week two of the fair. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

November 8th-10th: Handmade in Britain, Chelsea Old Town Hall, London SW3 This Contemporary Crafts and Design Fair features over 100 UK-based designer-makers, 30plus of whom will be showcasing jewellery.

Among the names: Maya Magal, Ornella Iannuzzi (right), and Lilly Hastedt.

See next month’s issue for the fair preview. www.handmadeinbritain.co.uk

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs September 1st-4th: International Jewellery London, Earls Court, London.

Sponsored by the NAG, a showcase for every aspect of the jewellery industry, including cutting-edge designer collections, major jewellery and watch brands, fashion jewellery, gemstones and retail services. See page 40 for a full preview of the show. www.jewellerylondon.com 6th-10th: Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, Impact, Bangkok, Thailand Around 1,500 companies showing gold, silver and other jewellery, as well as gemstones, equipment, tools and services. www.bangkokgemsfair.com

Book Review Rings – Jewelry of Power, Love and Loyalty by Diana Scarisbrick Paperback: £19.95, Thames & Hudson From the ancient to the modern (mid 20th century) this extremely comprehensive and well-illustrated study of rings considers the subject by theme rather than chronologically. And, as the title suggests, the author approaches rings from a variety of perspectives and so looks at signet rings; love, marriage and friendship tokens; memorial rings; rings associated with religion and great events, and then those that are simply accessories or decorative. Diamond rings get a chapter all of their own.

70 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

NAG Diary Dates September 14th-16th: 2013 IRV Loughborough Conference The must-attend seminar and workshop event for all valuers (and anyone else with a passion for gemstones, fine jewellery and precious metals). See p24 for further information. irv@jewellers-online.org 18th and 19th: Executive Development Forum, location to be confirmed Two all-day forums for senior decisionmakers and an opportunity to receive expert guidance on a range of business and retail management issues. For details email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org or call her on tel: 020 7613 4445 October 2nd: Essential Display Seminar, London This course explores the secrets of enticing windows and visual displays. The day will include theory as well as practical sessions. See page 20 for more details.

Contact Amanda White as above.

15th-16th: Diamonds and Diamond Grading Intermediate, London A useful refresher course for retailers and valuers. See page 20 for more details.

Contact Amanda White as above.

11th-17th: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, AsiaWorld-Expo and Hong Kong Convention Centre Around 3,500 international booths showing in two venues: one housing raw materials for jewellery including loose diamonds, gemstones and pearls, the other showcasing finished fine jewellery in various themed halls. exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com October 25th-27th: Gemworld at the Munich Show, Germany This year at the gemstone and fine jewellery fair will be the New Design Forum – a platform for emerging designers and gold and silversmiths. Another highlight is the Gemworld Pavilion showcasing the work of master lapidaries. https://munichshow.com

Come and hear industry analyst Edahn Golan speak about Polished Diamond Prices: The forces shaping them and using this information to make better diamond-buying choices.

When: 3 September Where: The Whitehall Room

DIAMOND TRADING & PRICES COMMISSION - FREE TRADING ENVIRONMENT Join the professionals at www.idexonline.com

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Visit IDEX Online at International Jewellery London at booth #I124.

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For NAG SPECIAL deal please contact Belgium@idexonline.com or 0032-3-2341157 WWW.ONLINEDIAMONDTRADING.COM

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karunaGEMS Diamonds • Gemstones • Fine Jewellery Since 1976 KarunaGems have established and developed direct contacts with diamond and gemstone cutting centres around the world, thus ensuring we can supply the stones you need when you need them.

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454 Bury Old Road, Prestwich, Manchester M25 1NL

Member of the London Diamond Bourse and Club and the BJA

Tel: 0161 773 0000 www.donnsjewellery.co.uk

Engravers

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Machine Engraving available on request NAG Prize Winners

MASTERS Hand Engravers Traditional hand engraving service at its best.

Competitive price structure with fast delivery and turnaround.

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GL Gem Spectrometer GL Gem Raman PL532 Gemlab Research & Technology Vancouver, B.C. CANADA Tel. +1-604-530-8569 gemlab@cigem.ca www.gemlab.ws

Labels & Tags

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Specialists in Personalised Jewellery 19 Highfield Road, London NW11 9LS Tel: 020 8455 8525 Fax: 020 8455 8992 Email: insigniajewellery@yahoo.co.uk

Point of Sale

Portrait and still life photographer in London 07984 236 928 • info@minnarossi.com www.minnarossi.com

Precious Metals

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Jewellery scrap buyers Try our free post service Lemel & workshop waste processing We are Fast Reliable & Transparent For daily scrap prices or more info t: 0207 404 0903 e: scrap@presman.co.uk (London) t: 0121 200 2555 e: scrapbham@presman.co.uk (B’ham) Download our Free Presman Scrap App!

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| Regular

The

Last Word This month we place The Last Word into the very capable hands of creative consultant and design director Yasmin Moss.

Personal Profile Yasmin left Central St Martins with a first class honours degree in jewellery design. Her career, which has included roles as a jewellery designer for Garrard and creative director at Gecko, culminated in her setting up her own consultancy business in 2005. Most recently she has established the NAG Design Service which was launched at The Jewellery Show this year.

Yasmin divides her time between this latest initiative, her role as creative director of Kit Heath Ltd, and as co-director, with her partner, of their retail business in Suffolk, Jonathan Lambert Ltd. Who has been the biggest influence in your life?

For me it’s not who but certain defining moments in my life that have shaped me and my attitude and approach – I have never let anyone tell me that I can’t achieve something. It’s a lesson that I learnt years ago while applying for my degree course.

I was told in no uncertain terms that by applying with another person, one of us was jeopardising the other’s chances of success, and I was advised to give up on my dream of the degree course in favour of the other person. I didn’t take the advice, choosing instead to go ahead. We both applied, and both gained places. Since those early days, I have never let anyone tell me something was out of my reach professionally.

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over?

I can honestly say nothing. I have been very lucky to have enjoyed a very varied career in an industry I love. The breadth of my career has been immensely rewarding; designing for the luxury jewellery houses is fabulous, as is creating best selling collections and brands for the high street. Both are challenging in different ways, but hugely enjoyable.

74 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2013

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others?

In my view: creative, motivated, determined.

As viewed by others: considerate, focused and calm!

If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry what would it be?

Commodity fluctuation is an issue in many industries, but in the last few years the changes in the gold and silver prices have presented this industry with its fair share of challenges for manufacturers, suppliers and retailers alike. Therefore if I could wave a magic wand it would be for us to return to some stability in this area.

If not the jewellery industry, what might have been your alternative career?

It would have to be something creative. One of my passions is gardening, therefore being a garden designer would be interesting.

Favourite shopping destination?

I love shopping in smaller locations. One of my favorite destinations is Marylebone High Street – the whole experience is, in my view, better than that in large overcrowded shopping malls. Food is a great part of the

‘shopping’ experience for me and being able to find somewhere with a lovely ambience to break up the day is as much a part of it.

I also love markets for more unusual and vintage finds.

The last film you saw at the cinema?

Despicable Me 2! We went with our two children Henry and Evie. It was very funny – I can thoroughly recommend it!

Tell us something not many people know about you…

I trained to be an ice skater! But art took over in my mid teens.

What keeps you awake at night?

Excitement about an up and coming event, or if I am worried about something.

If you could go back in time, what era or moment would you choose and why?

The 1920s. With so much innovation in travel (both by air and sea) happening, it was one of the most exciting and vibrant eras to experience. The fashion too was nothing short of fabulous!

What’s your guiltiest pleasure?

There’s a reason you’re not meant to eat cheese and drink red wine, but it has to be confessed that this would be my desert island food…

Quick Fire • Cats or dogs? Dogs • Diamonds or coloured stones?

Diamonds • White or yellow metal? Yellow • TV or radio? TV • Jewellery on men? Yes • Delegator or control freak? Delegator • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Neither • Paperback or e-reader? Paperback

GYRSTONES.COM