Jeweller the
July 2013
£7.50
The Voice of The Industry
Incorporating
Gems&Jewellery
July 2013 / Volume 22 / No. 5
Gem-A’s new home An emera ld rainbow The lotter y that wa sn’t
Silver jewellery – still whetting the appetite Diamond certificates – are they worth the paper they’re written on? Outlining new policies for the NAG
Would you like to comment? Call us on 0207 405 0009 or visit www.thmarch.co.uk
T.H. March are Chartered Insurance Brokers & Co-founders of the Pioneering SaferGems Initiative
We are experts when it comes to your insurance needs and we are deeply committed to the safety and wellbeing of our clients, their families and staff. That is why, in partnership with the National Association of Goldsmiths, we co-founded the pioneering & highly successful SaferGems initiative. SaferGems seeks to reduce jewellery related crime throughout the UK by enabling members to report suspicious behaviour and criminal activity. This vital information is shared with SaferGems members and with police forces both regionally and nationally. Our approach means that we liaise with security and crime prevention organisations, both nationally and internationally, to ensure we have access to the most suitable and up to date information for the beneďŹ t of our clients. T.H. March – Our expertise, knowledge and national branch network explains why more UK jewellers deal with us than with any other broker or insurer. We are proud to be the official insurance brokers to the National Association of Goldsmiths. Trust the experts.
Neil McFarlane ACII Chartered Insurance Broker Managing Director
THM/WAWD/NRM/SG/JUN2013
Jeweller
Contents & Contacts |
the
The Voice of The Industry
C O N T E N T S
www.thejewellermagazine.com
J U L Y
1 3
Statement of Intent
26
Nieema Alom, head of the new Policy and Communication
Editor’s Letter
5
Rawlinson Speaks Out
6
Industry News
8
NAG News
15
NAG AGM
16
EDF Congress 2013
18
Member of the Month
20
buoyant, says Belinda Morris
Education & Training
23
Viva Las Vegas!
IRV
24
NAG Roadshow
28
Business Support: Security
30
Business Support: Insurance
31
Opinion: John Henn
32
Notebook
54
Display Cabinet
56
Last Word
58
team outlines her plans for the future of the NAG
Enduring Silver
34
Inspiring designer creations and strong brand presence is ensuring that silver jewellery remains
46
A round-up of some of the best collections seen at the recent JCK show, by Olga Gonzalez
Diamond Certificates
50
James Riley writes on the findings of recent NAG/Gem-A research into the comparisons between, and reliability of, lab reports
July 2013 / Volume
22 / No. 5
Gems&Jewellery
The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com
History of Gem-A’s new headquarters, a Chelsea Masterpiece, Harry Levy’s update on the international congress season, Grenville Millington on emeralds and more…
Gem-A’s new ho me An emera ld rainb ow The lot ter y tha t wasn’ t
Jeweller the
July 2013
£7.50
The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. The National Association
Sales Director: Ian Francis
of Goldsmiths
Tel: 020 7613 4445
78a Luke Street,
Fax: 020 7729 0143
London EC2A 4XG
ian@jewellers-online.org
Tel: 020 7613 4445
Publishing Enquiries/
www.jewellers-online.org
Classified Advertising:
CEO: Michael Rawlinson
Neil Oakford
michaelr@jewellers-online.org
neil@jewellers-online.org
Editor: Belinda Morris
Contributors:
bmorris@colony.co.uk
Nieema Alom, Olga Gonzalez,
Art Director: Ben Page
Lee Henderson, John Henn
ben@jewellers-online.org
and James Riley
The Voice of The Industry
Incorporating
Gems&Jewellery
July 2013 / Volume 22 / No. 5
Gem-A’s new home An emerald rainbow The lottery that wasn’t
Cover Image In conjunction with Bouton
Silver jewellery – still whetting the appetite Diamond certificates – are they worth the paper they’re written on? Outlining new policies for the NAG
Norfolk Place, Paddington, London W2 1AJ Telephone: +44 (0) 8445 220012 Email: enquiries@bouton.co.uk www.bouton.co.uk
The NAG is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.
The Voice of the Industry 3
1–4 SEPTEMBER 2013 E A R L S CO U R T LO N D O N
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Comment | This month:
Editor’s
Letter
“… the abundance of brands and own-bought ranges in silver signifies that its presence is now fully established in the market place.”
irst of all, please forgive me if I seem a little slow – I’m writing this the morning
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after the night before. And it was a long night. Yes, those of you who were there know
what I’m talking about… the UK Jewellery Awards were held at the Natural History Museum (of course, clichés about dinosaurs abounded) and the proverbial good time was had by all. In particular it was had by a significant number of NAG members who left South Kensington clutching awards to their bosoms – heaving or otherwise – and we offer a hearty slap on the back to them (see Industry News on page 8 for details of winners). In fact it’s been quite a month of bonhomie-filled industry get-togethers, of one sort or another. If you imagine (having never attended one) that Annual General Meetings might be rather dry affairs, turn to page 16 for a report on the NAG’s AGM and luncheon, held at Hampton Court Palace last month. The photos alone will tell you that the event was as
Page 34
fun and entertaining as it was educational. It’s serious stuff running a jewellery business, but don’t let anyone tell you that we don’t know how to enjoy ourselves. Hot on the heels of last month’s Jewellery Show London, incorporating The Watch Salon, was the UK’s first trade exhibition dedicated to timepieces – The London Watch Show. Cue another good reason to party as the great and the good in this sector of the industry were celebrated in their own Hot 100 shindig. Once again a sprinkling of NAG bods were feted, among them Dominic and Melanie Wakefield of Wakefields, Joe Milner and Tom Milner of Tustains, Jon Weston of Rudells and Grant Mitchell and Kyron Keogh of Rox. But it’s not been all play these past few weeks – there have also been more weighty matters to consider at various meetings, conferences and forums. One topic that has occupied many
“… the lack of a common standard gives rise to misleading information for jewellers and ultimately the customer. A lack of knowledge and training in the market exacerbates this problem…”
minds for a while, and isn’t about to go away, is that of diamond certificates. On page 50 of this issue James Riley tackles the subject head-on with the findings of a recent survey on lab reports. Required reading? Of course. Controversial? Almost certainly.
If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk
Page 50
The Voice of the Industry 5
| Comment
Rawlinson
speaks out A review of the NAG’s membership policy, the highlights of the recent AGM and the Association’s role within CIBJO are among the matters on CEO Michael Rawlinson's mind this month… was once told that you shouldn’t strive for growth in an organisation but that you should work to make it healthy, because healthy plants grow! And that’s how I’m feeling about the National Association of Goldsmiths, its work, and its relationship with its members – the businesses as well as the people behind them. Do you sometimes want to be the best, but rather than thinking about what you need to do you fret about the competition and how you might bring them down a peg or two? Well, I’ve been pondering this very question in relation to the NAG; how we should be considering potential members. What might be the reaction of existing members, for instance, should we open up membership to retailers who are unlike traditional jewellers with a shop, a window display and clearly priced stock? I have concluded that the Association should primarily think about its own health, and I believe that this will be best achieved by it clearly representing the whole of the retail jewellery sector. To do this we must be
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6 The Jeweller July 2013
inclusive and accept any jewellery retailer, no matter in what manner they sell their products to the consumer, provided of course that they can sign up to and abide by our codes of practice and have a financially stable business. Our role is not to protect the commercial interests of one member over another, but to work for all members and to provide business support, education and training, short courses and other activities that will provide the chance for any member to improve the health of its business.
we can attract. Full details of the changes will be circulated to allow for questions and debate, and should formal changes be required we will hold a special members’ meeting. Keep your ears and eyes open for detailed communications on this issue soon. The AGM was held last month at Hampton Court Palace and the feedback I have received confirms that it was a very successful occasion. A perfect mix of tradition with modernity it was an amazing experience for me. I loved the respect shown for the customs of the Association – formally passing the chain of office from the past to the incoming president, pinning on the brooch and toasting the officers from beautiful silver beakers, which last month were being used for the tenth time, having been presented to the
… the Association should primarily think about its own health, and I believe that this will be best achieved by it clearly representing the whole of the retail jewellery sector On behalf of the board of directors I will be looking at our constitution as expressed in the articles of association, the by-laws and the code of practice to make sure they will allow us to accept the new members I hope
Association in 2003 by Peplow Jewellers of Worcester to celebrate 185 years of the NAG. The lunch was rounded off by an engaging and interactive talk by Rob Brown, a renowned author, who helped us all to think
Comment | about how we can make ourselves and our businesses stand out from the crowd, be memorable and above all how to get our customers to become ambassadors and supporters for our businesses. Having attended our own AGM and the London Jewellery Show the week before, I am beginning to realise that it’s possible for me to be at an industry event every week. And if that applies to me, then it probably applies to you? It is right and correct that Even though both events were very interesting and our industry is now having informative, how do you what to go to, a direct dialogue with EU decide and what to miss? Forget the cost of the entry fee – officials and this should that’s the small part of enable us to represent the cost you need to consider! Your time, travel your views clearly costs, time out of the business, extra staffing costs to cover your absence… these all add up and make the decision an important one. I can’t make a golden rule, but before I go to anything I always ask myself these questions: • What do I want to achieve – something to learn, someone to meet, something to say? • Is this the best way to achieve my goal – cost effective, time effective, is there a better way? • Could someone else in my organisation benefit by coming as well as or instead of me? Because of the pressures on everyone’s time and money I’m looking at how we can connect with our members in the most effective way, and build a strong regional network that will provide the interactions both you and we need to remain healthy. More on the re-establishment of NAG regional groups to follow, but do let me have your thoughts and ideas on how you would like to work closer with the Luke Street team. Finally I should let you know that a delegation of European trade associations led by CIBJO president Gaetano Cavalieri attended the EU Commission on Friday 28th June for the first of what we hope will be regular meetings to discuss jewellery industry issues. On the agenda for this first meeting – The Reach Directive and the standards for measuring nickel release, The EU’s approach to conflict minerals and response to the Dodd Frank Act, CIBJO’s CSR programme and supply chain accreditation to identify responsibly sourced gems, diamonds and precious metals. It is right and correct that our industry is now having a direct dialogue with EU officials and this should enable us to represent your views clearly before decisions are made that would be detrimental to the industry rather than having to try and reverse or correct poorly made regulations, directives or laws. Rest assured that the NAG will be at the forefront of this initiative and others, standing up to the needs of retail jewellers as we always do.
The Voice of the Industry 7
| Industry News
IJL’s regional previews culminate at Somerset House n exclusive preview of International Jewellery London’s KickStart designers was held for leading retailers at the Goldsmiths’ Company Pavilion at Somerset House in London at the end of last month. The summer exhibition, which celebrated the best of contemporary British design, provided a fitting backdrop for the new KickStarters to showcase their work during
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the day, followed by a special champagne reception for VIP guests and members of the IJL Diamond Club and Advisory Board. Sam Willoughby, IJL event director, stated: “This is the first time that all the KickStarters for 2013 are exhibiting together, ahead of their debut at IJL in September – and it is a very special moment for us. Not only because it is a timely reminder that in Britain we have
Nicola and Julia Clarke of Hester Clarke talk to a KickStart designer
some of the most innovative and inspirational talent in the world, but also that at IJL we are able to help launch and nurture these new stars of the future.” Guests included leading jewellery buyers and industry figures – including the NAG’s CEO Michael Rawlinson – who welcomed the opportunity to get an early glimpse of some of the new designer collections which will be unveiled at IJL this September (see p29 for Rawlinson’s report on the previews). Julia Clarke, MD of NAG member Hester Clarke Fine Jewellers in Aylesbury (as well as a member of the IJL Advisory Board and IJL Diamond Club) commented: “I was very excited to see so many talented designers all under one roof. I was very impressed with the quality and diversity of their designs, plus the actual quality of production, essential for a fine jewellery shop such as mine.” The London event follows the successful previews held earlier – in the key jewellery retail destinations of Leeds and Edinburgh – for other high profile retailers. It was designed to provide a ‘soft launch’ into the world of exhibiting for the 10 new British jewellery designers selected as KickStarters.
NAG members triumphant at UK Jewellery Awards ith NAG members in almost every one of the 17 categories in the 2013 UK Jewellery Awards, it was inevitable that the Association would be able to bask in a little reflected glory… and so it transpired. Hearty congratulations go to all those who triumphed at the glamorous black tie event, held on 4th July in the magnificent surroundings of the Natural History Museum. In particular though we hail the following NAG members: Allum & Sidaway (Retail Employer of the Year); Abigail Stradling of Allum & Sidaway (Retail Star); Harriet Kelsall (Boutique Retailer); Chisholm Hunter (Multiple Retailer) and Rox (Independent Retailer).
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8 The Jeweller July 2013
Other winners of the night: Sophie Harley (Jewellery Designer); Bering (Watch Brand); Keane jewellers (Marketing Campaign); Sharman D Neill (Platinum Bridal Collection); Ros Millar (New Designer); Jersey Pearl (Jewellery Brand); Bremont (Luxury Watch Brand and Store Design); Citizen (Supplier) and The Diamond Store (Etailer). Outstanding Contribution of the Year was awarded to Simon Fraser, course director at Central Saint Martins’ Jewellery MA and design consultant. Award sponsors were: Clogau Gold, TH March, Gemex, Houlden Jewellers, MiMoneda, Tresor Paris, Citizen, Casio, Ingersoll and the CMJ.
Abigail Stradling of Allum & Sidaway with her Retail Star of the Year award
Industry News |
London Watch Show launches he UK’s first trade fair specifically for timepieces, The London Watch Show, opened on 2nd July, with a reported 700 visitors (retail buyers and press) attending. Close to 50 exhibitors, including a number of new British watch brands, occupied halls, chambers and suites within the opulent Freemasons’ Hall in Covent Garden. Speaking to The Jeweller at the opening of the two-day event Mark Hearn, director of the British School of Watch Making and MD of Patek Philippe UK, said that the show was a vital addition to the UK watch scene. “The UK market needs an exhibition to promote all types of watch brands. Whether the watches cost £25 or £25,000 they all have something to offer. The brands need an avenue to show their products,” he said. He also felt it important for the industry to have a show dedicated to timepieces. “It’s stating the obvious but jewellery and watches are very different things – there should be no confusion of message. The show also gives smaller, niche brands the opportunity to get exposure,” he added. Hearn also said that the show would help draw attention to and develop an interest in British watchmaking. While he was obviously keen to raise the profile of the Manchesterbased School that he helped to found in
The man behind Axion is Glynn Barker, a commercial airline pilot (with a passion for horology) who has strong views on what might be required of a watch for aviators. Eschewing such functions that a pilot would expect to find on his instrument panel, Axion watches are about clarity and simplicity – but have the added feature of dual time-zones. “As a pilot I just need to know GMT and the time at my destination,” he explains. Once again the watches are priced in the affordable mid-price section (£325–£495), but have the benefit of quality Swiss manufacture.
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2004, his comments underlined the fact that the show provided a launch pad for a number of new brands – many of them British. Elliot Brown is a new brand of ‘classic, highly durable watches to be worn every day even in harsh conditions’, which is the brainchild of Ian Elliot, who co-founded lifestyle brand Animal (and sold in 1999) and horologist Alex Brown who spent 17 years developing and servicing watches at Animal. Every watch (priced between £325 and £600) has a Swiss-made movement inside a motion-damped housing – details are an important element, for instance crowns and push buttons are triple-sealed. Aimed squarely at the young, fashionconscious female market O.W.L (Our Own Label) has been created by Source Watches whose managing director Annette Allen has spent many years designing for other brands in that market. The look is fashionable and subtly glamorous with chain effect straps being a key feature. Also showing was du Maurier, the gents and ladies watch range launched by the Rebecca author’s grandson Ned du Maurier Browning and his wife Marianne. Here too the emphasis is on quality plus style, at an affordable, sub-£1,000 price point. Not British, but nonetheless new and showing for the first time in the UK (through Unique Jewelry) is the Paris-based Oxygen collection whose key look revolves around the on-trend, interchangeable NATO straps. Also showing was the Italian ToyWatch brand which is now being distributed in the UK through IBB London.
The Voice of the Industry 9
| Industry News
S N I P P E T S Alfred Terry launches Canadia Diamonds Alfred Terry has announced the launch of ethically-mined Canadia Diamonds in the UK. The range of rings, earrings and pendants contain diamonds from the Ekati mine in the Northwest Territories of Canada, 200 kilometres south of the Arctic Circle. Canadia began as a loose diamond brand and was one of the first to offer the ‘Country of Origin’ certification.
Swatch Group opens Oxford Street store ast month saw the opening of the Swatch Group’s second multi-brand watch boutique on a European street as the Oxford Street shop opened its doors. Sitting across two levels, the 270 square metre shop offers collections from across its portfolio of high-profile brands: Rado, Longines, Union Glashütte, Tissot, Calvin Klein, Balmain, Mido, Hamilton, Certina, Swatch and Flik-Flak. Hour Passion was established in 2004 and has boutiques in 50 airports globally. Nick Hayek, president of Swatch Group management board, stated: ‘The UK market and the British consumer are very important for us. We feel that they should be served in the most excellent way. That is why we decided to install a splendid new Hour Passion boutique in London carrying some of our finest brands.” The identity of each brand is reflected through its own retail area, using its colours, materials and imagery. The boutique floor features a lounge space within a contemporary setting of wooden floors and a backdrop of glass and polished surfaces.
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‘Car-boot’ James Bond watch fetches £103,875 A watch made by Breitling as a prop for the James Bond film Thunderball, sold for £103,875 at Christie’s in London last month. One of the lots in the auction house’s Popular Culture sale, the watch had been bought for £25 at a car-boot sale and was the first ever modified gadget watch issued by ‘Q’ branch to James Bond. It had been lost since filming and only recently rediscovered. Sheila Fleet collects OBE Jewellery designer Sheila Fleet travelled to Buckingham Palace on 28th June to receive an OBE from the Prince of Wales. She was accompanied by her husband Rick, son Martin and his wife Mairi who all work in the Orkney based-business. Nappy cream pot fit for royalty
Maurice Lacroix sponsors Samuel L Jackson benefit event uxury Swiss watch brand Maurice Lacroix was one of the co-sponsors of a star-studded charity golf and black-tie ball event last month, which was held in celebrity-favourite hotel The Grove in Hertfordshire. It is the second year running that the company has supported Samuel L Jackson’s Shooting Stars benefit which is in aid of the Alzheimer’s Association. The Jeweller’s editor Belinda Morris was among the guests Matthew LeFevre of Maurice Lacroix and Samuel L Jackson invited to join the Maurice Lacroix table, hosted jointly by UK sales and marketing director Matthew LeFevre, Timothy Mayer, the brand’s international PR and sponsoring manager and American actor Richard Roundtree, who, apart from being the brand’s golfing team captain for the four-day event, is also best-remembered for his role as Shaft in the 1970s cult movie of the same name. As well as presenting prizes of watches for two of the six categories in the golf competition, Maurice Lacroix donated a Masterpiece double Retrograde gents’ watch and a limited edition Sparkling Date ladies’ watch for an auction that was held during the ball. Jeweller Stephen Webster also gave a prize of a pair of earrings.
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10 The Jeweller July 2013
Jeweller Theo Fennell has created an 18ct white gold charm bracelet (valued at £10,000) adorned with a jewel-encrusted nappy cream carrier, which will be presented to the Duchess of Cambridge when she gives birth this month. Commissioned by Sudocrem, the iconic pot features a closeable lid and 24 rubies around the outside. Once the initials of the baby are known they will be engraved onto a disc charm.
GYRSTONES.COM
| Industry News
Browns store opens at Westfield outh African family-owned business Browns the Diamond Store has opened a store in Westfield Stratford, London. Owned and run by brothers Larry and Gavin Brown, the business is one of South Africa’s leading diamond jewellery manufacturers and retailers, with 25 stores across the country. The company specialises in rings featuring round brilliant and fancy shaped diamonds from half carat to five carats in weight. Most are made with white diamonds although they do keep a small selection of natural colour diamonds including yellow, cognac and pink. The company, which was founded in 1934, employs 50 craftsmen and women in its Johannesburg workshop and the Brown family has interests in South African diamond mining companies.
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S N I P P E T S Sheffield jeweller wins award Sheffield-based artist jeweller, Chris Boland, has been named craft&design Selected Gold Award Winner in the Jewellery & Precious Metal category of a national competition. He receives an award valued at £2,500 for his ‘eye-catching, well made and well photographed pieces’. The craft&design Select Awards were established in 2009 to promote the talent of designer makers working in the UK. Each year an online vote takes place over three months to determine a shortlist of six across six categories. Goldsmiths’ Centre launches training packages
Lonmin Design Award winners he six winners of the Lonmin Design Innovation Award 2013 have been announced. In consultation with jewellery trends analysis agency, Adorn Insight, the theme for this year’s competition was ‘New Frontiers’ – a trend inspired by design movements such as Modernism, Bauhaus and Art Deco. The brief was to create an original platinum jewellery design which has an eye on the future while being relevant to contemporary lifestyles. The winning designs will be unveiled at IJL in September. In the ‘Emerging Designers’ category – for jewellery designers with less than five years’ commercial experience – the three winners are: Siobhan Mayer, Domino Jewellery; Sarah Heulwen Lewis, Weston Beamor and Craig and Rebecca Struthers, Struthers London. In the ‘Established Designers’ category – for jewellery designers in the business for more than five years – the winners are: Luke Rose, Luke Rose Jewellery; Rachel Galley, Rachel Galley Jewellery and Kasun Ekanayake, Kasun London.
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Nomos aids humanitarian cause erman watch brand Nomos Glashütte has launched a limited edition of classic mechanical watches to support Doctors Without Borders/ Médecins Sans Frontiers and its relief operations worldwide. The brand first launched a campaign to support the cause in Germany, producing an initial batch of 2,000 watches in March 2012. Now the successful charitable initiative is being repeated and going international at the same time: from June, special models of the Nomos Tangente and Tangente 33 benefiting Doctors Without Borders will be available in the UK, with £100 from the sale of each watch going directly to those in need. What makes these 1,000 watches special is a red ‘12’, the name ‘Doctors Without Borders’ on the white silver-plated dial and an engraving on the back referring to the international organisation. In addition, these special models have black oxidised hands instead of the Tangente’s usual tempered blue ones. And the Nomos Alpha movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal glass back.
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The Clerkenwell-based Goldsmiths’ Centre has launched new training packages for aspiring jewellery designers and goldsmiths. The charity is offering three new career launch pads, giving would-be craftspeople the opportunity to enhance bench and business skills. Details on ‘Setting Out’, which will be available from this October; ‘Making It’ and ‘Getting Started’ (available from this January 2014) can be found on: www.thegoldsmiths-centre.org Import duty lifted on jewellery The Thai government has lifted the 20 per cent tax on imported gems and jewellery to be sold at the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair (6th-10th September, 2013). As a result foreign exhibitors will be able to sell products duty-free, while local exhibitors can reduce prices after cutting down on costs of important parts. Buyers can thus take advantage of 20 per cent savings, say the organisers, who are also offering free three-day, two-night accommodation for first-time visitors. Garrard opens first pop-up shop Mayfair-based Garrard has taken part in its first pop-up venture. The shop, in Prestige Village, Porto Cervo, Sardinia, will be open from now until 6th September. Other brands with shops in the Village include Richard Mille, Hublot, Bugatti, Chopard, Richard Mille and Valentino. The launch is a pre-cursor to Garrard’s upcoming launch of a 500 square foot boutique in Harrod’s Fine Jewellery Room this November.
THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS Representing Jewellery Retailers since 1894
THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS
SHORT COURSES PROGRAMME 2013 QUALITY SHORT COURSES FOR THE RETAIL JEWELLERY INDUSTRY The National Association of Goldsmiths provides members and non-members with a series of short courses to enhance skills, develop business potential and stimulate growth. Our selection of seminars planned for 2013 cover a wide range of areas designed to help you, your employees and your businesses to develop going forwards and increase revenue.
Advanced Selling
Developing Selling Performance
Selling to Chinese Customers
Gold Buying and Precious Metal Testing
Diamond and Diamond Grading: An Introduction
Diamond and Diamond Grading: Intermediate
Essential Display
Strategic Visual Merchandising
Social Media.
To request your copy of the N.A.G. Short Courses Programme 2013 or to ďŹ nd out more information about prices and bookings please contact Amanda White, N.A.G. Information and Membership Services Officer T: 0207 613 4445 E: amandaw@jewellers-online.org
NAG News |
Another success for the Centenary Trust massive ‘thank you’ must go to the golfers and to invited dinner guests who were very generous with their donations at last month’s NAG Trophy Challenge 2013. A substantial amount of money was raised for the Centenary Trust, a trade-specific charity working to improve education within the jewellery trade. An excellent dinner was followed by a brief presentation from our main sponsor, Chris Garland of Bransom Retail Systems, before he presented the prizes. The main trophy, the NAG Challenge Trophy, was won by Tom Green of Charles Green and Sons of Birmingham (right, image above), with a magnificent score of 41 points. Second place went to Heather McPherson and third place was won by Jan Clifford. The team prize was won by James Grant, Graham Horrocks, Jan Clifford and Michael Bramall, with a ‘best two’ score of 80 points. Nearest the Pin, sponsored by Clarity and Success, was won by Stuart Hopper; Nearest the Pin in Two was won by James Grant and the Putting Competition, sponsored by Laurence Watson and Co. Ltd, went to Mark Smith. To see all of those shots and buy an image as a memento of the day, or perhaps as a gift for a competitor (to hang in the office?) then visit: www.vipseventphotography.co.uk (password: bandit2013). The images can be purchased online with a 15 per cent discount if purchased before the 4th August. The other golfing extravaganza of the summer was The TH March Ryder Cup-style competition between the Retailers and the Manufacturers/Suppliers – which was fiercely competitive, full of banter and great fun – which took place on Thursday 11th July. Later in the year the NAG Yorkshire Centre’s Ogden Trophy will be held at Woodsome Hall, Huddersfield. The veteran of all competitions, having been running for well over 60 years, this offers a superb course, great company and a brilliant day’s golf and will be taking place on Thursday 15th August. If you want to know more about the jewellery-related golf tournaments, contact Frank ‘Tiger’ Wood on golf@braithwaitesjewellers.com and he will add you to the golf database.
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First Design Day to be hosted soon arlier this year we launched an exciting new member benefit: the NAG Design Service. We saw an opportunity to offer further support to our members and worked with Yasmin Moss whose years of experience within jewellery design make her a perfect partner for this new scheme. The new service allows us to facilitate ’Design Days’ for retailers, where customers can work with the retailer to have bespoke pieces made to their own specifications. They will also have the opportunity to redesign old jewellery to create ideal new pieces; all designs made will be accompanied by an insurance valuation by an IRV member. Jonathan Lambert Fine Jewellers will be hosting the very first Design Day on 27th July. They have received support from Yasmin throughout the planning stages and she will be present on the day. Julie Taylor, manager of the Sudbury-based jewellers, said: “We are delighted to be hosting the first NAG Design Day and we’re looking forward to welcoming several new clients who have already booked an appointment for the event.” For more information on the NAG Design Service, please contact Arafa Kumbuka, the NAG’s marketing officer: arafa@jewellers-online.org
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New Member Applications To ensure that NAG Members are aware of new applications for NAG Membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amanda Reavell on 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amanda@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.
Ordinary Applications Leevans Jewellers Ltd, Horsforth, West Yorkshire
Affiliate Applications Make a Difference T/A Sellcomms Ltd, Hatton Garden, London
Alumni Fellow Applications Sally Ann Fry, Southampton Roy Egginton, Bournemouth
Understanding fluorescence professional development one-day course entitled ‘Understanding Fluorescence’ will be hosted by the University of St Andrews on 31st August 2013. This course will provide an opportunity for IRVs to improve their knowledge and learn about new developments in gem testing. Attendees will be able to count this course as 10 points towards their IRV Continuing Professional Development (attendance and a written summary of participation on the course will be required). IRVs and NAG members are eligible for a five per cent discount on course fees. NAG IRV Fellow Dr Richard Taylor has helped to organise the course and was instrumental in securing this discount. Deadline for bookings is 15th July and, with the discount, the cost to members is just £280.25 (accommodation is extra). For further information contact Sandra Page on 029 2081 3615 or email her at: irv@jewellers-online.org
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New press and PR officer at Luke Street e are delighted to announce that Caner Daywood is the NAG’s new press and PR officer. An English Literature graduate from Queen Mary, University of London, he is a blogger, social media/PR freelancer and stylist, with experience in fashion and digital communications.
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The Voice of the Industry 15
| NAG News
NAG’s AGM at Hampton Court Palace ampton Court Palace provided the glorious and historic setting for the 119th Annual general Meeting of the National Association of Goldsmiths on 26th June. Among the highlights of the day’s events was the election of Margaret Harris of Flitwick Jewellers as the Association’s new president. During her speech Margaret (left) expressed how “delighted” she was with the honour. Margaret explained: “I have been involved with the organisation since the start of my business in the 1970s and have always found it to be so useful and helpful. In fact, I call the NAG my head office!” The NAG would like to congratulate Margaret who is our first female president since Margaret Biggs was elected 36 years ago in 1977. In addition to Margaret’s appointment, further elections to the Board and Council took place and the following members were re-elected: Pravin Pattni as chairman; Andrew Hinds as vice chairman, Nicholas Major as deputy chairman and Frank Wood as honorary treasurer. Michael Rawlinson, CEO of the NAG, congratulated Margaret on her presidency. “I’m so pleased with Margaret’s appointment to the presidential role! She has been a fantastic ambassador for the NAG over the years and I’m glad that she has received the recognition she so richly deserves,” he said. The AGM was the perfect occasion for members and guests to meet the NAG team, the board and of course, each other. Members had the opportunity to hear from Michael about his future plans for the Association. He spoke passionately about the changing nature of the industry and the need for the Association to adapt and progress. In particular, he focussed on evolving the current membership structure to ensure the NAG remains the single most representative association within the industry. This means that not only will the NAG continue to represent its core membership of retailers with shop fronts on the high street, but that we will expand to include different types of retailers including TV sellers and e-retailers who meet our robust code of practice. “A female president and a new membership structure are not the only developments here at the NAG. We’re sure many of you have noticed that there have been many changes at Luke Street in terms of staff,” said Michael. Introducing his new recruits to members and guests, he continued: “I will be working closely with the education, membership, and policy and communications teams at the NAG, to deliver a package of services which are useful, relevant and much needed by our members, old and new.” Also during the meeting, the IRV’s outgoing chairman Jonathan Lambert was presented with a particularly special bottle of Scotch whiskey by his friend, mentor and past NAG and Gem-A chairman David Callaghan. Following lunch attendees were informed (and entertained) by the motivational speaker Rob Brown and the day concluded – for those with energy to spare – by a guided tour of the Palace and grounds. We would very much like to thank all of our members and guests who attended the AGM and Annual Luncheon. Attendees helped to make the occasion an enjoyable and memorable one and we would love to see even more of you there next year! We hope you enjoy these photos taken by our new photographer Minna Rossi.
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16 The Jeweller July 2013
| NAG News
EDF Congress 2013 NAG CEO Michael Rawlinson reports back from his first Executive Development Forum. xford University’s Saïd Business School was the setting for this year’s Executive Development Forum (EDF) Congress. Now in its eighth year, the annual event brought together jewellers from all over the country with a common goal – to share and discuss new ideas in a non-competitive way, and to consider the implementation of these to help improve business. This year’s task was for Congress to examine how we would be retailing jewellery in 2018. Sounds easy, but it turned out to be a very challenging endeavour. We had to consider future trends, both in terms of the way we physically sell (shop front vs. online, or a mix of the two) and the actual products which we might be selling. Additionally, we had to think about the creative marketing tools that we’d use to build up our customer bases as well to compete effectively with all of the other brands out there, jewellery or otherwise. Mike McGraw, the instigator and powerhouse behind the EDF, once again took centre stage to introduce the day and set the context for the project. To support Mike and to provide stimulation and ideas, delegates were joined by special guest speakers Chris Wade (CEO of Action for Market Towns) and Richard Cross (founder of new clothing brand Dashwood Boat Club). Chris spoke to Congress about consumer shopping trends and research undertaken by Loughborough University tracking the use of online activity both before and during a shopping trip to a town. Richard, having previously worked for major fashion brands including Jack Wills, talked about his latest project. In particular, he advised us on the use of social media and multiple channels – using his own previous successes as case studies – to help establish individual businesses as brands and ultimately, to boost sales. Participants were split into teams and were asked to consider how they might make a business successful in 2018 and were given two choices to consider: starting a new retail jewellers from scratch or inheriting a family-owned one with a declining turnover
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in a prime high street location, with on-site workshop and goldsmith to carry out repairs. Significantly, when the groups presented their concepts, no one wanted to contemplate turning around a declining business handed down from one generation to the next. Perhaps this was too much like reality for some! I also noted recurring themes – customer service, differentiation, bespoke design, onsite services such as an in-store goldsmiths, repairs and valuations were all considered vital to success. Use of social media to build brand awareness and interest, as well as endorsement of products by buyers through tweeting and Facebook ‘likes’ and ‘check-ins’, were also heavily featured in the strategies. Enhanced experiences through displays, videos, allowing customers to interact with the workshop and craftsmen, customers participating in jewellery-making, promotional events with other retailers such as fashion stores and businesses that appeal to a similar customer base (such as a luxury car brand), and even play spaces for children and men alike, were a few of the ideas presented to create a fabulous buying experience five years hence. Yes, some of these are doable and others are completely ‘out there’, but the quote of the day was: “You can polish a crazy idea, but you can’t polish a dull one.”
develop and take the business support programme forward in the coming years. I’d like to take this opportunity to thank Mike for all his hard work and his dedicated support of the NAG, and wish him all the best in his retirement. Initial feedback tells us that retaining the collection, collation and reporting of turnover, profit and stock figures are important to EDF members so that they can benchmark their business against the market, and we will ensure this continues. We will also continue to provide a safe environment for networking and discussion on key issues. We know that participants would welcome specialist presentations, training, mentoring and coaching on core topics, so we will be investigating those ideas right away. It’s clear that I was very impressed with what I saw, but maybe I’m biased. So don’t take it from me; here’s what just a couple of attendees said about the EDF: Trevor Fitzgerald, Fitzgerald Jewellers, attended Congress for the first time: “It was interesting and useful to meet other jewellers, finding out about their businesses and speculating about the future. I’ve come back full of ideas and I’m now in the process of becoming an EDF member.” Sadie Bott, Barry Bott Jewellers, an existing EDF member: “It’s been a really great journey for me – both educational and enjoyable.
Some of these are doable and others are completely ‘out there’, but the quote of the day was: “You can polish a crazy idea, but you can’t polish a dull one.” The day concluded with a presentation to Mike McGraw who, sadly for us but happily for him, will be retiring at the end of the year. It was clear that every one of the delegates who has got to know and work with Mike over the years will greatly miss his insight, knowledge and passion for the retail sector. The Luke Street team will be working with Mike and the current EDFers to
We’re all jewellery retailers with the same ethos, but with quite different businesses so it’s great to exchange ideas and views and really think about how we can implement these within our own businesses.” If you would like to know more about the EDF or would like to join, please contact: amandaw@jewellers-online.org
| NAG News
NAG Member of the Month In this issue we place Wakefields Jewellers of Horsham in the spotlight. The fourth generation, award-winning business is now run by Melanie Wakefield – who has answered our questions – and her brother Dominic. Tell us about the family business history – when were you introduced to it and how have you and your brother progressed through the company? Did you always want to join Wakefields? I joined the business, having been a ‘Saturday girl’, full time in 1988. I failed one of my A levels, which halted my ambition to be a teacher and luckily engaged my love for gemmology. I worked with my grandfather and father, so I was the lowest of the low. But it meant I learned to do everything. No decision could be made unless it was ‘slept on’ and discussed to the ‘nth’ degree. Dominic joined a little later after his accountancy degree and a stint at corporate life. He made sweeping changes almost immediately, bringing us into the 21st century, with his new fangled machine – the computer. And so it began… Dominic's love of technology spread through the business, making us very much more efficient. But I still miss the old handwritten till receipts. It is great to see both you and Dominic deciding to work in the family business following in the footsteps of your greatgrandfather; are future generations likely to be following the two of you? Dominic and I have five children between us, so hopefully a couple of them will follow in our footsteps. The best outcome would be one of Dom's children and one of mine to share [the responsibility]. They are very close as cousins, so it should work. Dominic and I have always felt the business is held in trust for the next generation. Your father gives you ample support in running the business and must be very proud; is he still a key decision maker or, as a new generation, is this the domain of you and Dominic? My father handed over the business – the decisions, the finance, in fact all of it – when he was still relatively young. We ‘took the reins’ in 1998 and which point dad was only
20 The Jeweller July 2013
50 years old. He has had cancer twice and actually this has made him view his life differently. He works to live, not lives to work, which is something not learned from his father, who was in the business full time until he died at 91. Dad works part time and is our valuer. I am sure he is proud of us. I know he is relieved at not having the responsibility, but also respects the risks we take. Wakefields became an official Rolex stockist last year and you also carry an impressive men’s collection for all ages and tastes – tell us about these. We are one of only two accounts that was afforded this accolade by Rolex in the past eight years, so we are very proud of that achievement. Extensive investment and expansion was undertaken to accommodate this iconic brand, along with intensive staff training at Rolex HQ in Kent. We stock a comprehensive range of both ladies and gents styles in our new showroom and judging from the response we’ve had to date, we can only see sales increasing. We also offer full servicing and repairs of Rolex watches through our store. Our men’s collection is always evolving. I believe we offer the most comprehensive cufflink
Melanie Wakefield and her brother Dominic
selection for a few miles. I can’t say it’s truly commercial, but it is different and gives women great gift ideas. What is the most important piece of advice that has been given to you and that you will pass on to keep the family business flourishing for many years? This is easy – forget the competition, just be the best you can be. The previous generations were obsessed with what Joe Bloggs jeweller down the road was doing. Life is different now, people shop in a different way. I would say take time out of the store, visit other stores, talk to people you respect who are successful and look at what works for them and share best practice. People love talking about their business… just listen. With you and Dominic now looking after the family business what are your future goals and aspirations? Dominic and I have a shared vision of the business. We are very lucky that we agree on almost everything. We definitely aspire to be the best, certainly in terms of customer service. We want to deliver the very best experience and to build a relationship with each of our customers. Hopefully being focussed, these goals are achievable. Lastly, do you have a memorable customer anecdote to share with us? I have a customer who leads a double life, buying the same items of jewellery for both his wife and girlfriend over many years. He lived with his girlfriend in the city during the week. She was a concert pianist and taught him to play the piano. When he retired, his wife bought him a keyboard because she knew he had always wanted to learn. So he had to pretend to learn all over again even though he was an expert player! If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month send an email to: arafa@jewellers-online.org
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NAG News: Education & Training |
Bransom Award winner — May e would like to congratulate May’s winner of the much-coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award – Tina Carruthers of Broadway Jewellers in Kent. In particular Tina impressed our moderator with her commitment: “She is another worthy winner who has demonstrated the personal qualities that are expected of a Bransom Award recipient. The assignment that she submitted showed that she has a full understanding of the use of the grading system used for diamonds.” The assignment also illustrated an in-depth awareness of the subject with a “special mention of the different types of inclusions found in diamonds with supported explanations of each specific type”. Tina’s tutor Mary Garland also commended her for the commitment that she has shown to the course with “well thought out assignments – all sent ahead of time”. She added that “Tina understands the importance of good customer relations when backed by sound product knowledge”. Mary is delighted that Tina has won the Bransom Award and is “sure that she will continue with her studies long after her recent success and will use her product knowledge advantageously”. When we spoke to Tina her initial response was that she was “very shocked and surprised but also very happy” to be chosen. “I have been working in the jewellery business for nearly three years,” she explained, “but I think I lacked confidence. When my manager suggested that I do the JET 1 course I wasn’t keen at first as I hadn’t done a course for some years. It was a lot of work but I am definitely glad I did it. “I enjoy looking at how old items of jewellery are and wondering about what sort of life they have had,”she added. Taking the course has developed Tina’s continued interest in the industry, and more importantly, helped her to gain key skills needed in her role. “JET 1 has helped to give me more confidence when talking to the customers,” she added. “I’d like to thank everyone who has supported me while I’ve completed the course, especially my manager who encouraged me to do it in the first place and for his help and knowledge.” The education department would like to congratulate Tina on her success and wish her all the best in her future studies and her career in the industry.
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The Bransom Award In July 2010 the NAG launched a competition with the aim of recognising the very best JET 1 projects. Course tutors put forward nominations before the winner is chosen by our chief moderator. The individual who is awarded the highest assignment mark is rewarded with a trip to the historic and prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall in London for the presentation of their certificate at our annual award ceremony. The award, which is sponsored by Bransom Retail Systems, is made on a monthly basis.
Education News JET 2 Exams On 22nd May 90 students took the JET 2 exam at five examination centres across the UK and the process of marking and moderating all 90 papers has now begun. As might be expected this is a lengthy process so we ask that all students bear with us while we carry this out; the results will be sent to students in August.
Tutorials A much-appreciated aspect of NAG education is the access to free tutorials that we offer to our JET students. These take place in a number of centres across the UK, usually starting at 10am and finishing by 4pm. The atmosphere is friendly, relaxed and fun and the perfect opportunity to meet tutors, as well as other students on the course. JET 1 The topics covered will include: • Hallmark identification • Jewellery and silverware identification • Diamonds • Coloured gemstones JET 2 The JET 2 tutorials are usually attended by students who are due to sit an exam. They offer an opportunity to discuss exam queries and to make sure that subjects have been revised. The subjects include: • Construction of valuation descriptions • Loose gemstone identification • Past exam papers • Examination technique There are still spaces available on our JET tutorials in the autumn. Further information and booking forms can be found on the tutorials page of our newly launched education website: www.nageducation.org
The Voice of the Industry 23
| NAG News: IRV Review
NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R
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The Loughborough Conference 2013 With just a couple of months to go before the event, Sandra Page offers a preview of the Loughborough Conference – a must-attend for valuers, jewellers and gemmologists… anyone involved in the world of gems and jewellery in fact. his year the NAG’s annual two-and-a-half day IRV Loughborough Conference takes place from Saturday 14th to Monday 16th September inclusive. It will be our 25th Conference (our 23rd at our homefrom-home – Loughborough University in Leicestershire) and we plan to wow everyone who attends with yet another amazing array of main presentations, discussion sessions and the ever-popular workshops. There will of course be the all-important social moments when delegates get a chance to catch up with friends and colleagues within the trade – those they speak to only on the phone, or maybe text or email.
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Plenty of things to learn…
Although the event starts on the Saturday, this year early birds who plan to arrive the day before (to avoid potential weekend travel problems) are invited to join in a lunchtime visit to the Blue John Cavern in Derbyshire (an hour and a half from Loughborough). This year’s Conference programme includes the very popular workshop sessions across the three days with a total of 21 of these to
24 The Jeweller July 2013
choose from – topics covered will include valuation methodology, antique jewellery, jade, costume jewellery, diamonds, silver, gemmology, photography, the Certificate of Appraisal Theory, manufacturing processes, auction activity and insurance matters. We shall also have workshop sessions on using GuildPro valuation software and – new for this year – an opportunity for those valuers who don’t use a particular software package but do use MS Word and/or Excel to produce their valuations, to get together to discuss ideas and solutions to issues and problems they encounter on a day-to-day basis. Having so many workshops to choose from – but being restricted to just five sessions – can often be the hardest thing to deal with when it comes to attending Loughborough. Frustrating maybe – but not a bad problem to have! This year’s line up of guest speakers offering workshops and main presentations includes many regulars, a few guest speakers we haven’t seen for a while and one or two new faces. All will help the Institute to give delegates another great event from which they will learn so much. This year’s main guest speakers are: • John Benjamin: well known presenter from BBC1’s Antiques Roadshow • David Callaghan: one of our regular, entertaining guest speakers • Jonathan Lambert: our very own past IRV chairman • Geoffrey Munn: also a well known presenter from the Antiques Roadshow • James Riley: CEO of the Gem-A
Business matters aside, and looking ahead to the social side of the Conference, after dinner on the Saturday night we shall announce the winner of the 2013 David Wilkins Award and present certificates to those members of the Institute who have become Fellows. We shall also be presenting CAT certificates to those individuals who passed the CAT pilot exam held towards the end of 2012. And following on from the success of last year’s Sunday Bright Shirt Night (in memory of the late, great Brian Dunn and his bold wardrobe) we shall be inviting delegates to take part in our Best Crown Competition (homemade preferred) which our new IRV chairman, Geoff Whitefield, has suggested might be appropriate as this year we are celebrating The Queen’s Coronation. The person with the best real adornment will win a suitable prize! The Conference will also see a number of exhibitors taking part. Those confirmed at the time of writing are: AnchorCert, Fellows, the Gem-A and T H March.
… but all work and no play etc…
The Conference package fee starts at £445 for NAG/IRV members and £545 for non-members plus VAT per delegate (for delegates who send in their bookings by 17th July 2013). The fee includes all aspects of the Conference itself, accommodation and meals during the event. Please note, if you are a member of another trade organisation, and four other members from the same body want to attend, you can do so at the NAG member rate. We also offer a 10 per cent discount for the third (and fourth, etc) delegate if a business wants three or more staff to attend. Full details about the whole programme are contained in the brochure which is available upon request from Sandra Page, the Conference organiser. Contact her at: irv@jewellers-online.org
| Feature
Statement of intent
Nieema Alom, head of the NAG’s new Policy and Communications team, outlines what she has planned on behalf of the Association. he strategic vision for the NAG of (not so new) CEO Michael Rawlinson is supported by the recently-established Policy and Communications team which has been set up to promote the interests of members externally, to protect their businesses and to identify and react to their changing needs. We met with Nieema to learn a little more…
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Tell us a little bit about yourself… I’ve been at the NAG for two months now and I am certainly enjoying myself – what an exciting industry to be in! I joined the Association from the public sector where I worked across government departments and a local authority. My background is in lobbying; I’ve campaigned on a wide range of issues such as low wages and poor living standards, welfare reforms and securing a
lasting legacy for east London following on from the 2012 Olympic Games. I also have experience in events management, policy development and media management and am really looking forward to applying and developing my skills further here. I’ve been fortunate in that during my short time here, I’ve already met many really interesting and well-informed people and I’m finding out about the broad range of issues affecting the industry. So far I’ve had the opportunity to represent the NAG at the Responsible Jewellery Council AGM in Milan and I’ve met key people based in the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter as well as many of our members at our own AGM held in Hampton Court Palace last month. These are obviously the more glamorous highlights of the last couple of months!
Arafa Kumbuka, Caner Daywood and Nieema Alom, the NAG’s new Policy and Communications team.
26 The Jeweller July 2013
I have also been very busy in the office working on a wide range of policy issues and forthcoming events which I am looking forward to sharing with the Board during the next meeting in August. So what does the Policy and Communications team actually do? That’s a question I get asked very often. Because we’re not exactly a member-facing team (although we are very keen to get to know the membership) our role within the NAG is not immediately obvious. There are in fact many facets. In terms of policy we fulfil the following functions: • Positioning and campaigning: we build relationships with the Government and other key players to influence public policy while continuing to develop the NAG’s reputation among influential people. • Stakeholder relations: we identify, cultivate and utilise relationships with corporate, public and third sector partners, not only to increase the profile of the NAG but also to maximise the impact of campaigning work through joint coalition pressure and sharing information. • Monitoring and advising: we track and analyse industry-related developments and adapt our campaign strategies accordingly. We also provide strategic advice to the NAG on how we as an association can best react to new developments in the interest of our members. In terms of communications we are doing the following: • Profile raising/public relations: we are currently undergoing a rebranding exercise to ensure consistent and recognisable branding. We are also looking at ways of increasing positive coverage and presence of the NAG externally to secure ‘industry leader’ reputation. • Event management: we plan and manage events to increase the profile of the work that we do and to give our members a chance to meet us throughout the year and see firsthand how we are progressing. • Press/social media: we proactively place articles within trade and national press that relate to our work. We also act as a main contact for press enquiries and work to react quickly to news items by providing responses where necessary and advising senior officers/board members in the
Feature | make it incredibly difficult to guarantee that the entire supply chain, from mine to retail, is ethical – although we know that our members always sell in good faith. The NAG is a founding member of the UK Jewellery Industry Ethics Committee and we work hard to identify issues within the supply chain and look at possible solutions to these. We work on behalf of members to ensure that any proposed solutions put forward by the Committee, the Government and international bodies are suitable for retailers. There are many other issues affecting the industry but those are three very significant areas which we are focussing on, which will have the biggest impact on the businesses we represent. event that they may need to make a press appearance. Our social media accounts are also managed in-house by our press and PR officer to help keep members informed of our daily activity. In your view, what are the main issues affecting the jewellery retail industry and how will you be looking tackle some of these? The jewellery retail sector is an exciting, interesting and fashionable one, steeped in tradition; but there’s no hiding away from the fact that the industry is now facing some of the most significant challenges it has ever had to deal with. These are wide-ranging but I think there are three main issues that we need to focus on. The first is increased competition and the slow moving economy. Jewellery is very much a luxury item but as belts continue to tighten across the country, ordinary consumers are spending much less on non-essential goods. Added to that is the pressure of competing high value goods, such as smart phones and tablets, which many people now prefer to receive as gifts at milestone occasions. Unfortunately we can’t do anything about the economy, but what we can do is to help our members compete. We help shop managers and staff alike to become experts in their fields through our unrivalled education programme so that they can gain and keep the confidence of their customers. We are also expanding our ‘short courses’ offer to help our members gain specialist skills to boost business and sales – all of these being offered, of course, at competitive rates
for members – definitely helpful in these straitened times – and we will be enhancing the Executive Development Forum to support strategic business leadership. The second is the threat to the business itself from government legislation and regulation. Small to medium sized businesses are the backbone of this country; they employ 14.1 million people and have a combined turnover of £1,500 billion – in short, our members are part of a powerful group. When Government is acting against the interests of our members, for example issues arising from business rates and the Portas Review, it is the role of the NAG to ensure that politicians hear members’ voices.
There’s no hiding away from the fact that the industry is now facing some of the most significant challenges it has ever had to deal with… That is why we work with groups such as the Independent Retailers Confederation and Action for Market Towns, to collectively work in the interests of our members. We also monitor regulatory developments affecting business and ensure that our members are well-informed and prepared for these changes. The third major challenge for our members is the reputational risk surrounding the ethical sourcing of gems and precious metals. The very nature of this global business can
What changes do you intend to make at the NAG? Very positive ones hopefully! I am lucky to have joined such a great team at Luke Street, but also fortunate to have really good people within my own team. Arafa Kumbuka, our marketing officer who started working at the NAG just shortly before I joined, has done a wonderful job of working with the wider team to coordinate and launch the new education website (www.nageducation.org) so you can see that changes are already happening. Additionally, this summer, we’re working on redesigning the main NAG website which we hope to launch at International Jewellery London this September at Earls Court. The aim is for this team to not only represent our members’ interests externally, but also to help advance the Association with the aim of attracting new members, modernising the ‘look and feel’ of the organisation, and offering an updated package of benefits to suit the members’ changing needs. We are very excited to have hired a new press and PR officer, Caner Daywood, to help promote the good work we do and also to showcase better the fantastic work of our members. And finally, what do you hope to have achieved in a year’s time? We have some quite exciting developments coming up which I can’t talk about now but what I can say to members is please do look out for these changes and please talk to us about them – we love hearing the views of our members as they drive everything we do.
The Voice of the Industry 27
The NAG presents...
SATURDAY 14TH TO MONDAY 16TH SEPTEMBER 2013 AT LOUGHBOROUGH UNIVERSITY THE CONFERENCE FOR VALUERS AND JEWELLERS Main guest speakers include John Benjamin and Geoffrey Munn from the BBC1 Antiques Roadshow Workshops on topics such as valuing, insurance, jewellery, diamonds, gemstones, gem testing and silver Conference Package Fee starts from £465.00 plus VAT including accommodation and meals from Saturday lunchtime to Monday lunchtime Brochure and booking form available on the IRV website at www.jewelleryvaluers.org/loughborough-conference or from the Conference organiser email irv@jewellers-online.org or call 029 2081 3615
Feature |
Michael with Sam Willoughby from IJL chatting to one of the many guests who attended at Leeds
All aboard the NAG
R ad Sh w As part of his determination to meet up with as many members of the Association as possible, NAG CEO Michael Rawlinson has spent a great deal of his first few months taking to the road. wo particularly memorable events I’ve had the pleasure to attend recently were the IJL previews in Leeds and Edinburgh. Retailers and other special guests were invited to mingle with up-and-coming designers from the KickStart programme, together with other jewellery manufactures, suppliers and distributors. The aim was for
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Buyers studing jewellery at the IJL preview
visitors to get a flavour of the exciting new lines that will be unveiled at the main event IJL at Earls Court 1st-4th September. One KickStarter that stood out to me during the Edinburgh preview, which was held at the fashionable Missoni Hotel, was Ruth A Morrison (www.ruthmorrison.com) Her jewellery collection incorporated fabric, but not just any fabric – it was actually Harris Tweed. Ruth lives and makes her jewellery on the Isle of Harris, and she hopes to make her own tweed which will add an even more characteristic feature to her creations. I particularly liked the cufflink range which would suit any gentlemen who might wish to sport the huntin’, shootin’, fishin’ look. Among the other brands showing at the Edinburgh event was Bering Time, introducing its new Artic White ceramic watches, as well as newcomer Bjørg Jewellery whose pieces are created using natural materials. Later during this month of July, I’m off to Norwich, Brighton, Birmingham and Leicester. I’ll be walking the streets of the cities calling in on jewellery retailers to introduce myself,
talk about the NAG, its current work and my plans for the future, and making sure everyone has the IJL dates in their diaries. For those whose shops and businesses are near to the respective cities, I’ll be hosting evening receptions at a hostelry so that no one has to miss out. I’m really enjoying meeting members, hearing their stories, and understanding how we can build an association that is able to support jewellery retailers in the 21st century. I’ve also met other members over the past month and they’ve been in some interesting situations. I’m thinking specifically of metal bashing! They didn’t tell me about that when I signed up… but that’s what makes the job unique. I was fascinated to join a group of visitors to Payne & Son in Tunbridge Wells – as part of their Summer of Silver – to witness a piece of flat silver being turned into a beautiful jam spoon. The skill, experience and artistry of master goldsmith Steve Wager was a joy to behold. As he worked the metal, alternating from hammering to heating and quickly quenching the metal, he could continue to fashion the silver, until it was transformed before our eyes. Steve regaled us with stories from his past – when he worked at Asprey’s – telling us how the
Goldsmith Steve Wager demonstrates his craft
workshops were run and giving us some of the gossip regarding just a few of the unnameable rich and famous clients. Steve was also a great tutor, allowing some of us to pick up the hammer and have a go ourselves. As with all masters of their art, he made it all look too easy, but of course that is the result of years of training and refining his skills. But that is what jewellers and craftsmen do everyday – build dreams and emotional stories that connect the customer to a piece of jewellery. My education, clearly, is just beginning…
The Voice of the Industry 29
| Business Support: Security
SaferGems
– the continuing story Lee Henderson of SaferGems rounds up the latest facts and figures from the jewellery crime-fighting mother ship. aferGems has now, potentially, 9,000 members nationwide, including retail jewellers, manufacturers, pawnbrokers and distributors. This number is continually increasing through personal contact with individual outlets which have not previously utilised their email systems. Stickers produced by the NAG and TH March have also been distributed – further tools in the fight against jewellery crime. It’s a fight that has gained steady momentum; since its inception in June 2009 the initiative has: • recorded over 450 suspicious incidents • recorded over 2,000 crimes • circulated more than 700 alerts • provided 300+ analytical reports to police • directly been involved in or assisted police with at least 50 arrests and convictions. SaferGems continues to attend police working group meetings and has been described by ACC Matt Jukes of South Wales Police as the ideal example of how industries can work in partnership with the police. As a result of this partnership crime against the jewellery industry has now been written into the Government’s UK Threat Assessment. We continue to share information with law enforcement agencies and our counterparts in Europe and the USA. This pooling of knowledge has proved very successful, resulting in numerous offences of robbery and theft being linked. Jewellery stores remain extremely vulnerable to robberies with high-end watches continuing to be the most sought-after items with almost £6 million worth stolen during robberies across the UK since September last year. Attacks on Asian-owned jewellery stores remain a continuing trend, especially across the South East region and also the Midlands. In September 2012 ten Eastern
S
30 The Jeweller July 2013
Europeans were arrested by officers from the Met Flying Squad as they attempted to rob an Asian jewellery store in Haringey. On 27th March this year the offenders were jailed for a total of 82 years for jewellery raids at Asian jewellery stores across London. Since these arrests and convictions two things have happened which may or may not be linked: one is a decrease in Asian jewellery store robberies and the second is an apparent increase of robberies in mainland Europe, which may indicate a displacement of offenders from the UK. We have also recently seen a spike in motorbike/moped ‘smash and grab’ raids at jewellery stores across the South East region, with offences in London, Berkshire, Sussex and the high profile raid at Selfridges on 6th June, where it is believed £1 million worth of watches were stolen by men disguised in burkas. Watches are again the main target of smash and grab jewellery store raids but the pawnbroker/ cash for gold-type stores have suffered a rise in attacks with offenders targeting gold jewellery. The biggest problem that our members continue to encounter is the distraction/ sleight of hand theft being committed, in the main by Eastern European crime groups. We encourage retailers to be vigilant for multiple persons entering their store and ensure that they inform other members of staff if they become aware of any suspicious behaviour. With the continued assistance and support from SaferGems members and police contacts, we continue to link these organised crime groups to multiple high-value thefts at jewellery stores across the UK and Europe.
w w w. s a f e r g e m s . o r g . u k
Much of this evidence is as a direct result of our continued liaison with police/law enforcement agencies and our counterparts in Germany who operate a similar scheme to SaferGems. We also urge members to report any suspicious activity and/or attempted thefts involving these gangs to police immediately, as we appreciate that details of any vehicles used are vitally important in tracking and monitoring their movements. In addition to attacks, over the past six months SaferGems has seen a significant rise in the amount of fraudulent payments reported to us by members and police contacts. During 2012 we recorded almost 100 such reports, the majority of which consisted of persons contacting jewellers by telephone and purchasing items of high value using stolen or cloned credit cards. These items were then either intercepted on delivery or delivered to a bogus postal address.
This year to date we have received almost 70 reports of fraud from our members with well over £600,000 worth of goods having been fraudulently obtained. The lion’s share of these reports have involved criminals obtaining goods via Chip & PIN machines, using stolen/cloned credit cards and forcing transactions through by overriding the machines with an unknown number or password. This method of fraudulent payment is extremely difficult for retailers to detect or prevent as they are only notified of the fraudulent transaction up to three weeks later. Our close relationship with police authorities and law enforcement agencies enables us to warn members and make them aware of any suspected fraudulent activity that is currently occurring throughout the UK and Europe. So, if you haven’t already, sign up to SaferGems now. And remember, it doesn’t matter how trivial you think a suspicious incident might be… report it! That way everyone benefits.
July 2013 / Volume 22 / No. 5
Gem-A’s new home An emerald rainbow The lottery that wasn’t
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Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Editorial
Gems&Jewellery
July 13
Collecting Sales There seems to be a division in some people’s minds between ‘commercial’ gems and ‘collectors’ gems. If there really is such a distinction then, to use an gem-industry in-joke, it might depend on whether you are buying or selling. Or, to use another well-worn
Contents
expression, it may depend on what you mean by ‘collecting’. The wonderful gemstones in
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the famous American-based ‘Somewhere in the Rainbow’ collection (come to the Gem-A Conference this year to learn more) and the fabulous gems and jewellery exhibited at the recent Masterpiece Exhibition in London (see page 7) are perhaps what many people think of when collectors’ gems are mentioned. There are also the collectors, many of them Gem-A Members and graduates, who collect fine or unusual examples of gems, rough or cut, at more affordable prices. If you know what you are doing, rare and interesting is not
Gem-A News / Calendar
necessarily synonymous with expensive. However, most would probably not associate the
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average gems set in the average jewellery in the average high street jewellery shop with ‘collecting’. But perhaps jewellers need to rethink? A few days ago Gem-A representatives, including CEO James Riley and I, took part in the 2013 Gem Lovers’ Conference held by Jewelry Television (JTV) in Knoxville, USA. This event attracts a large number of JTV customers, the vast majority of whom consider themselves
Gem News
collectors — whether they have spent a few hundred dollars with JTV or a few hundred thousand (and yes there are some of those). They collect gems and gem-set jewellery, either
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to wear or just to admire and show off. Talking to these buyers made it evident that they shared passion, pride and interest in their purchases. If you sell gems or gem-set jewellery anywhere — it doesn’t matter if it is at Masterpiece, in the high street, on the internet, in a gem show or from your office — you can join the collectors’ market. If you have knowledge of, and enthusiasm for, gems, your customers can become in their minds — and in yours — collectors. In a sense you can start collecting collectors. That is why a good familiarity
News & Reviews
with gemstones is one of the best ways to ensure success in the jewellery market today.
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Gem-A education, from one-day workshops to full courses, has a very practical value. Jack Ogden
Cover Picture Gem-A’s new headquarters at 21 Ely Place, London. Photo by Jack Ogden.
Around the Trade Gems and Minerals
13 July 2013 / Volume 22 / No. 5
Hands-on Gemmology 14 Gems and Jewellery History
20
Stone Scoop
22 Gem-A’s new home
Published by The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) 21 Ely Place, London EC1N 6TD t: +44 (0)20 7404 3334 f: +44 (0)20 7404 8843 e: editor@gem-a.com w: www.gem-a.com Registered charity no. 1109555 Copyright 2013 ISSN 1746-8043
Editor Jack Ogden Advisory Board Mary Burland, Roger Harding, Harry Levy and James Riley Design and Production Zest Design +44 (0)20 7864 1504 Any opinions expressed in Gems&Jewellery are understood to be the views of the contributors and not necessarily of the publishers.
An emerald rainbow The lottery that wasn’t
Advertising For mediapack and advertising rates please contact Ian Francis at the National Association of Goldsmiths on tel: +44 (0)20 7613 4445 or email him at: ian@jewellers-online.org
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Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Gem-A News and Views
Gem-A’s new London headquarters Gem-A’s new home is a beautiful eighteenth-century house in a gated private street in London — a building with a long and unique history. Jack Ogden looks at some of this history, from monks to medical education to music box repair, and discovers that it really isn’t part of London at all. Ely Place takes its name from the city of Ely near Cambridge whose prominent history began some 1,340 years ago when an abbey was established there. A couple of centuries later, Ely Palace was established as the London residence for the Bishop of Ely and thus it remained until the 1770s when the land was sold and the cul-de-sac Ely Place built on the site — a gated street bordered by 22 ‘genteel residences’ one of which,
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number twenty-one, is now owned by Gem-A. It is an historic place. Ely Palace, also known as Ely House, was the location for Act 2, Scene 1, of Shakespeare’s Richard II where a dying John of Gaunt made his famous ‘this scepter’d isle’ speech. Elizabeth I ordered the Bishop of Ely to lease Ely Palace Garden to Sir Christopher Hatton, henceforth known as Hatton Garden — now London’s jewellery street.
The links with Cambridgeshire are still strong. Indeed, Ely Place is not officially part of London; technically it is part of Cambridgeshire. It has its own elected governing body — the Commissioners of Ely Place. According to journalist Vitali Vitaliev in an article in The Daily Telegraph in 2003, there are now only four other such enclaves surviving in Europe: the Campione d’Italia (an Italian town in Switzerland), Llivia
Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Gem-A News and Views
(a Catalan town in the French Pyrenees), Busingen (a German village in Switzerland) and Baarle-Nassau/Baarle-Hertog, (a Dutch/ Belgian municipality). One of the resulting quirks is that, in theory anyway, Ely Place cannot be entered by the Metropolitan Police unless they are invited in by the Commissioners. The gates across the entrance of Ely Place are not simply to keep police out — they served a practical purpose in the past to keep out ‘beggars, collectors of old clothes, and other objectionable people’. According to one report they were closed ‘during the days of cattle markets in Smithfield [just down the road], and on occasions of public executions at Newgate [four hundred metres away]’. Number 21 Ely Place was already more than a hundred years old when the last public execution was held at Newgate. By then it had already seen a variety of occupants including one involved, like Gem-A, in education. In the 1820s Dr Francis Hopkins Ramadge, a Fellow of the Royal College of Physicians and a specialist in respiratory and other diseases, lived at number 21 and regularly gave ‘A Summer Course of Lectures and Examinations on the Principles and Practice of Physic, Materia Medica, and General and Pharmaceutic Chemistry’ in the building.
Dr Ramage had an expertise in respiratory diseases in common with Sir James Walton, surgeon and past president of Gem-A after whom The James Walton library at Gem-A is named. In 1880 the freeholds of several properties in Ely Place, including number 21, were placed on the market with vacant possession given on completion of sale due to ‘the ground leases being about to expire’. This might indicate that the buildings originally had 99-year leases. Since then occupants have ranged through early hi-tech, games and fine porcelain. Nicole Freres Ltd ‘Internationally renowned as music box manufacturers, dealers and repairers’ were based at 21 Ely Place in the early 1900s and were at the cutting edge of technology back then. They sold ‘cylinder boxes’, ‘polyphons’, ‘zonophones’ and ‘disc records’ and established a recording company, one of whose aims was to record Indian native music. At the beginning of the 1920s the building was occupied by Bliss Sports and Games Manufacturers Ltd who invented and patented such long-forgotten games as ‘Flinks’ and ‘Ringflinks’ before going bankrupt in 1922. The building then became the London showrooms for the Royal Crown Derby Porcelain Company Ltd until its agent, Mr A.H. Folker, retired in 1927.
Gem-A Calendar Gem Central and Career Service evenings Gem-A regrets that Gem Central and Career Service evenings have been cancelled until the autumn, with the first planned for 9 September. We apologize for any inconvenience caused, but this is due to our sudden move to our new headquarters at Ely Place. We look forward to inviting you to events in our new home and will announce dates as soon as possible. For further information please contact: events@gem-a.com
The Gem-A Conference 2013 2 and 3 November, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London A two-day conference to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Gemmology Diploma to be awarded and the 50th anniversary of the Diamond Diploma. Confirmed speakers include John Bradshaw, David Callaghan, Dr John Emmett, Arthur Groom, Brian Jackson, Dr Jack Ogden and Gary Roskin. See pages 18 and 19 for further details or go to: www.gem-a.com/news--events/ gem-a-conference-2013.aspx
Interestingly, for a few years Gem-A (along with the National Association of Goldsmiths) occupied Audrey House exactly opposite our new home in Ely Place. The front of our new home shows signs of repair to the World War II bomb damage that finally forced us out of Audrey House and into a temporary home. More recently the building has been occupied by a varied range of professions, from solicitors to finance. The latter include Tiuta PLC, whose mission to deliver ‘shortterm finance to a broad range of clients seeking rapid solutions to their financial needs’ proved more short term than envisaged when it called in the administrators in September 2012. The resulting placing of 21 Ely Place on the market came at the perfect time for Gem-A. Our new home is an ideal headquarters and campus, and a good investment for the future. When the freehold of 21 Ely Place was placed on the market in 1880, the property was described as “exceptionally sound and lucrative for investment, especially for Trustees”. We can echo those words today. We will hold an opening party for our new building towards the end of the summer. Further details to be announced in the near future.
Show Dates Gem-A will be exhibiting at the following shows:
IJL London 1 – 4 September 2013, Stand J94 Gem-A is proud to be a sponsor of IJL
Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair 13 – 17 September 2013 CEC Booth 3M046
Gemworld Munich 25 – 27 October 2013
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Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Gem News
Gem news Jack Ogden reports on two recent gem events. Gemmology in Holland The Netherlands Gemmological Laboratory and the Dutch Gemmological Guild hosted the 5th European Gemmological Symposium, 15–16 June. The conference coincided with the 14th Dutch Gemmological Guild symposium and was held at the Naturalis Biodiversity Center, Leiden. The presentations ranged over a wide variety of topics and included Stefanos Karampelas (Switzerland) with an ‘Overview of pearl testing: classic methods and new developments’, Thomas Hainschwang (Liechtenstein) on ‘Natural green diamonds’, Emmanuel Fritsch (France) on ‘Ordinary and extraordinary shapes of diamond crystals’, Maggie Campbell Pedersen (United Kingdom) on ‘Amber: real, fake and coloured’, Ulrich Henn (Germany) on ‘Colour and colour modification of non-transparent quartz’, Benjamin Rondeau (France) on ‘Gemmology and geology of opal deposits — comparison Australian and Ethiopian deposits’ and Kenneth Scarratt (Thailand) on ‘Useful corundum (ruby, sapphire) data sets from deposit specific samples’. In his talk Ken Scarratt, director of the GIA Gem Lab in Thailand, made an observation that applied equally to all the presentations and which should be heeded by all gemmologists and gemmology students — and which meshes perfectly with Gem-A’s own teaching philosophy. He recounted the changes in laboratory gemmology over the last generation, in his own case from the damp basement of the London Chamber of Commerce Laboratory that was later fused with Gem-A, to the advanced resources available today in GIA labs. What has remained constant, he said, was the need for gemmologists to have expert observational skills; people with the experience to look at a stone and have a gut feeling about what it is. Such people require intelligence, experience and a constantly enquiring mind.
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The day preceding the conference was taken up by a visit to Amsterdam. This incorporated a canal trip by boat and the beer-drinkers’ heaven, ‘the Heineken Experience’, but began with a tour of Gassan Diamonds whose staff explained the history of diamond cutting in Amsterdam and then oversaw a long hands-on session in which delegates were able to examine both rough and cut diamonds in a wide range of sizes. Shown here is a large (29.91 ct) diamond of essentially octagonal form.
A 29.91 ct rough diamond, one of many stones, cut and rough, seen during the visit to Gassan Diamonds. Photo Jack Ogden.
Coloured stones in China The International Colored Stone Association (ICA) held its 15th Congress in Changsha, Hunan, China, 12–16 May. As its title ‘Sourcing countries and China market’ indicated, the Congress focussed on the interaction between the countries producing gems, and the rapidly expanding Chinese market. There were delegations from many countries, including a strong presence by Sri Lanka whose delegates Amitha Gamage and AHM Imtizam delivered a presentation on the ‘Current gem and jewellery industry in Sri Lanka’. The Tanzanian delegate, Benjamin J. Mchwampaka, gave a timely presentation on ‘The development of gemstone industry in Tanzania with focus on legal framework, control and trading
environment’. There were also presentations by delegates from Brazil, China, Colombia, Hong Kong, Switzerland, Thailand and USA. As is usual for all conferences, the networking and discussions apart from the official presentations are a major reason to attend. The social events arranged around the Congress provided ample opportunity for such interaction — China’s current import tax on gems and how it might be reduced being a frequent topic. PDFs of all the presentations can be found at http://tinyurl.com/ICAChangsha-Presentations Unfortunately due to the numerous industry-related events around the world in May, Gem-A did not have an official delegate at the Changsha meeting, but members and colleagues of Gem-A were present. The Congress was timed to precede the China (Changsha) Mineral and Gem Show that was held from 16–20 May. There were 1,200 exhibitors, 600 showing mineral specimens including some extraordinary examples. Among the massive and the extremely rare was a huge, laden buffet table, but the food, on closer examination, was revealed to be carefully chosen and arranged mineral specimens. In addition to the mineral exhibitors, there were 450 exhibitors of gemstones and fine jewellery, and an ICA pavilion of 150 ICA members exhibiting coloured gemstones.
Good enough to eat. Minerals cleverly displayed as a buffet at the Changsha Mineral and Gem Show. Photo Sara Abey.
Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
News and Reviews
Trade in Chelsea – the fourth year of Masterpiece In June for the last four years, Chelsea, London, is temporary home to the Masterpiece exhibition, an art and antique show at which dealers from around the world exhibit the best of the best. Jack Ogden reports on the jewellery to be seen.
The Masterpiece exhibition held in the magnificent grounds of the Royal Hospital, Chelsea, London (26 June–3 July 2013) was its fourth year (1). It was larger than ever, a splendid mix of fine art and antiques, from Maseratis to Picassos to ancient Egyptian sculpture. And, among all this, the crème de la crème of jewellery. And the jewellery seemed to be doing well. This is not just my bias, The Economist blog, reporting on the show, noted “a growing interest in jewels and gems: jewellery of all periods is fashionable and the global market is hot”.
Of jewellery and gems there was a mouthwatering array, from a superb and very rare pair of gold clothing hair pins (fifth century BC — Cahn International, Basel) to perhaps the finest pair of Castellani ‘Archaeological Revival’ earrings I have ever seen (c. 1860 — S. J. Phillips, London) as well as jewellery by the top houses and designers of the twentieth century. And gems, fine gems. The increasing prominence of natural pearls on the market (as evidenced at this year’s Basel show for example — see last month’s Gems&Jewellery) was reflected at Masterpiece. London-based Symbolic &
Chase displayed a magnificent 64.5 ct drop-shaped pearl (2). They had purchased this pearl at a Christie’s auction in 2004 and then named it the ‘Pearl of Kuwait’. David Warren, international director of jewellery at Christie’s, has previously commented that at the time of the sale he had a hunch that there must have been an illustrious and probably royal history to this pearl, but was then unable to ascertain a provenance. However, after detailed research, including going through sixteenthcentury Spanish archives, Symbolic & Chase has plausibly suggested that this may be the pearl that once belonged to Mary Tudor (1498–1533) and which is shown in portraits of her. The same pearl also graced the neck of Queen Isabella of Portugal and King Philip of Spain’s sister Juana of Austria (1535–1573). Other pearls with a royal pedigree include those on the ‘Marie-Antoinette necklace’ exhibited by Wartski of London (3). In its present state the necklace is nineteenth century, but the 21 natural pearls that define it were once owned by Marie-Antoinette. They were taken out of France for safe-keeping during the revolution by the wife of the British ambassador, and remained in the family after Marie-Antoinette was beheaded.
2: A 64.5 ct drop pearl, believed to have been worn by Mary Queen of Scots. The rosediamond-set cap is nineteenth century. Photo courtesy of Symbolic & Chase, London.
3: The ‘MarieAntoinette necklace’ exhibited by Wartski of London. Photo Jack Ogden, used by courtesy of Wartski.
4: The ‘Marie-Antoinette brooch’ by Theo Fennell PLC. Photo courtesy of Theo Fennell.
1: Masterpiece 2013, the central hall on preview night. Photo Jack Ogden.
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News and Reviews
The same ill-fated queen also featured in a unique brooch by another exhibitor, Theo Fennell. His ‘Marie Antoinette brooch’ — with the Queen’s skull complete with broken pearl necklace — is part of his series of brooches titled ‘Sic Transit Gloria Mundi’ or ‘How fleeting are earthly glories’ (4). Probably not a motto with which the exhibitors at Masterpiece sympathize. Going back to Wartski, we can report a rather understated but gem-related example of the Fabergé for which it is famous — a seal made from a single aquamarine crystal, the top surmounted by a coiled gold snake with its head set with a ruby (5). The cypher on the base of the seal has not been identified, but the object itself was from King Farouk’s 5: An aquamarine personal Fabergé and gold seal by collection that was Fabergé, formerly in housed at Koubbeh the collection of King Palace, Cairo. Also with Farouk of Egypt. aquamarine — and Photo Jack Ogden, green tourmaline — used by courtesy was a beautiful Art of Wartski. Nouveau brooch exhibited by Hancocks of London. It is by Georges Fouquet, Paris circa 1901, set in 18ct yellow gold with diamond detailing (6). Other jewellery on show with a gem focus included a platinum brooch by René
6: Art Nouveau brooch with aquamarines and green tourmaline, by Georges Fouquet, Paris circa 1901. Photo courtesy of Hancocks of London.
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7: A platinum and jadeite brooch by René Boivin, Paris c. 1935. Photo Jack Ogden, used courtesy of Symbolic & Chase.
Boivin with terminals from which hung interconnecting jade links — the links carved from a single piece of jadeite (7). This piece, exhibited by Symbolic & Chase, dates to around 1935 and bears French assay marks. The jadeite links were presumably Chinese in origin, reused by Boivin much as Cartier and other French ‘houses’ incorporated oriental and other components in their
Of similar date, similar materials, but of different origin was a Spanish parure exhibited by Michele Beiny of New York. This consisted of a large ‘stomacher’ or corsage jewel (7 inches high) and a pair of earrings (9). The reverses had a floral design in black, pink and white enamel. The presence of mid and later twentiethcentury jewellery reflected the increasing collector interest in this area. The Verdura Jewellery Company was established in New York in 1939 (in London it exhibits with Harry Fane). Among the pieces on display at the Verdura booth were a pair of Maltese cuff bracelets, first designed for Coco Chanel in the 1930s (10). The contrasting black and white hoops are of black jade and mammoth ivory. Another celebrated jeweller is David Webb of New York and Beverley Hills whose very distinctive style has attracted avid collectors. The bracelet shown here is a good example of his work and also of the use of organic gem materials, albeit ones that might raise some eyebrows in certain circles today. This ‘Double Chimera Bracelet’, a piece with distinctly eastern antecedents, is of carved coral, with carved ivory and black enamel set in 18ct yellow gold and platinum (11). As would be expected, jewellery in organic materials was in evidence with exhibitors showing ethnography. A splendid
8: Chinese gold and ruby pin of the Ming period (sixteenth century). Photo courtesy Susan Ollemans.
jewellery. Actual old Chinese jewellery, along with ornaments from India and South East Asia, were exhibited by specialist dealer Susan Ollemans (London). Shown here is a sixteenth-century Chinese Ming period gold pin with rubies (8). New York’s A La Vieille Russie Inc. had its usual fine range of Fabergé and other important jewellery and objets d’art, including Russian pieces, such as a large (4.5 inches high) seventeenth-century gold pendant reliquary cross set with large emeralds probably of Colombian origin.
9: Gold, emerald and diamond parure, Spanish, seventeenth century. Photo courtesy of Michele Beiny.
Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
News and Reviews
10: Pair of Maltese cuff bracelets by Verdura, black jade and mammoth ivory. Photo courtesy of Verdura.
example was a Fijian chief’s split whale tooth necklace — what is called a wasekaseka — dating from the mid nineteenth-century (12). This was to be seen at Finch and Co. of London, a dealer specializing in ethnography, European works of art, natural history and antiquities.
11: ‘Double Chimera Bracelet’ in carved coral, ivory and black enamel, by David Webb. Photo courtesy of David Webb.
Dealers tend to specialise in types of object, periods, or geographic origins — or a combination of these. Les Enluminures, of New York, Chicago and Paris, as well as dealing with medieval manuscripts, specialises in ancient and historic rings. Early rings are, and long have been, a significant area of collecting. The examples shown at Masterpiece by Les Enluminures included rings from Roman to Renaissance (13),
12: A Fijian chief’s split whale tooth necklace, nineteenth century. Photo Jack Ogden, used courtesy of Finch and Co.
plus a large display of seventeenth-to eighteenth-century posy rings. The visitors to the exhibition — there were reportedly 6,000 present on the preview day alone — fall into several categories. There are the serious (and wealthy) collectors out to buy, those out to look, learn and marvel, and those who just want to be seen to be there. And of course there are dealers who are not exhibiting but who want to observe what their competition has, get a sense of what is selling and, sometimes, buy. As with all art and antique shows, there can be good dealer-to-dealer business too. The proof of the pudding with any exhibition, of course, is whether the exhibitors sell enough, or make enough good long-term contacts, to make it all worth their while. It is a long show (26 June to 3 July), and I was there on only the preview day and the second day, but some exhibitors already had smiles on their faces and the general impression was that business was being done, and probably more business than last year. For exhibitors the point of such a show is to tempt new collectors and cross-over collectors — the latter meaning a collector of, say, seventeenth-century paintings, who
falls in love with a Roman marble statue on display and enters a whole new phase of collecting. There were buyers of many nationalities present, but we can note that some dealers reported heightened activity among Chinese buyers. Business has to be done. It is an expensive show in which to take part. One New York exhibitor told me that, by the time you added up booth costs, hotels, transport, insurance and so on, taking part in the show cost him in excess of $250,000 dollars.
13: A selection of Renaissance rings. Photo: Jack Ogden, used courtesy of Les Enluminures.
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Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Around the Trade
The international congress season Harry Levy FGA reports on recent meetings of international organizations — the World Diamond Council (WDC) and World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) meetings in Tel-Aviv in May, and the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA) meetings in Istanbul in June. CIBJO In May 2013 CIBJO held its annual congress in Tel-Aviv, Israel. For some years there had been resistance to go to Israel, mainly by the mid-Europeans, perhaps for security reasons or perhaps for political ones. However most did come to Tel-Aviv and it turned out to be a wonderful congress. One of the main items completed was the harmonization within the Blue Book. There are three sections in this book: the Diamond Book, the Gemstone Book and
Rough times ahead with diamonds? The future of the Kimberley Process was on the agenda at several meetings. Photo Jack Ogden
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the Pearl Book. I am not sure why this was a necessary exercise; it took several years to complete and much effort by those who undertook the task. The aim was to ensure that definitions had the same paragraph number in all the three books and that the definitions looked the same in all three of them. If one looks up heating in the Gemstone Book, is it that important that heating will be found under the same number in the Diamond Book? Further definitions and processes do not appear in all three
books, and even if they do they could differ between the books. In order to complete such work it was found that there was not sufficient time allowed during the congress, so the CIBJO organizers used a couple of days before the official congress opening to have ‘pre-congress Steering Committee meetings’ for the different commissions. This is unfair as many delegates were unaware of these pre-congress meetings, they added two extra hotel nights to one’s expenses and some commissions simply did not need the extra time. However, the harmonization task was completed and we all look forward to seeing the new edited Blue Book. The CIBJO Diamond Commission meeting was uneventful. There was some talk on synthetics and their detection and the detection of treatments. The most difficult one is to identify colour change of tinted diamonds to white using the High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) process. While the WFDB and CIBJO will both continue to maintain full independence, they aim to coordinate positions in the areas of gemmological standards and nomenclature; standards and methods of disclosing of treated, enhanced, synthetic and simulated diamonds and gemstones; and Corporate Social Responsibility, good governance and sustainability, including the Kimberley Process. CIBJO and WFDB Press Release
Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Around the Trade
Pearls at CIBJO There have been many changes with pearls, with improvements in the production of cultured pearls. Traditionally we have had pearls (natural ones) and cultured pearls both sea water and fresh water ones. I will not include imitation pearls. The producers of the large South Sea and Pacific pearls have often omitted to classify their pearls as cultured. They are trying to justify their position by calling traditional natural pearls, previously known as ‘pearls’ to ‘natural or real pearls’ and drop the term ‘cultured’ for all the farmed ones. They claim that the majority of all pearls sold are cultured, the consumers knows this and ask for ‘pearls’ knowing they are getting cultured ones; should they want natural pearls they will ask for ‘natural pearls’. This position has not been accepted yet, but we shall have to see what will happen now. During our meetings in Istanbul we consolidated our position as the world’s leading diamond organization, representing the full value chain from mine to finger. Ernie Blom, WFDB President
From left: Ernest Blom, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Eli Izhakoff, former president of the World Diamond Council and Gaetano Cavalieri, president of CIBJO. Photo courtesy WFDB/CIBJO.
This is most unusual as all bourses round the world will not permit non-members on to their trading floors.
Metals at CIBJO
World Diamond Council
The Metals Commission had a good meeting. It is surprising that the metals used in our industry have been neglected for so many years, as they are such an integral part. There is much to be done still to get universal approval for many things, for example the nickel content in gold, as it can cause allergic reactions. Further there are many moves to clean the production of gold, to improve the conditions for miners and minimise environmental pollution. Ethical issues are gaining prominence with most of the sectors and commissions in CIBJO. Perhaps a highlight of the congress was something outside the meetings. This was a meeting at the Ramat Gan diamond complex, where delegates were entertained by the Israel Diamond Exchange (Bourse). After some speeches delegates were permitted to wander around the trading floor.
The CIBJO congress was preceded by the World Diamond Council meeting. This again was well attended with many prominent personalities in the diamond industry, especially those involved with conflict diamonds and the Kimberley Process (KP). The meeting came at the end of an era as the president, Eli Izhakoff, announced his stepping-down from the WDC. Eli has had a profound influence in the diamond world; he was president of the New York Diamond Dealers Club (Bourse), president of the WFDB, and finally president of the WDC. In fact he was one of the instigators of
the formation of the WDC and, with his knowledge, diplomacy, personal friendship with the leading diamond people and ministers, and his eloquence and charm, has ably led the trade component within the KP. He is being succeeded by Avi Paz, the immediate past president of the WFDB. We wish them both success.
Diamond issues The KP continues to evolve, since the problems with the Zimbabwean diamonds. A new definition for conflict diamonds is needed to bring in human abuses and rights, and there is a bifurcation between the African producers and other producers. The WFDB and IDMA presidents’ meeting was held in Istanbul in mid-June. This was during the recent demonstrations in Turkey, but the meetings had been
Cultured and imitation pearls must always be preceded by the respective qualifiers ‘cultured’ and ‘imitation’. However, it is recommended that, to avoid any confusion, even natural pearls should be labelled with the qualifier ‘natural’ included. From the CIBJO Pearl Special Report issued just prior to the CIBJO Congress
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Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Around the Trade
The diamond industry, already one of the most regulated industries in the world, has been subjected to taxation regimes from mine to market. Diamonds are mined in specific regions but sold internationally and as such become victims of many and multiple tax systems around the globe. IDMA website in announcing that tax and its impact on the diamond industry would be the theme of the presidents’ meetings in Istanbul.
arranged last year. Eventually it was decided not to cancel the meetings as they were held in a beautiful new hotel on the Bosphorus, several kilometres away from the trouble spots such as Taxim Square. The few who did cancel at the last minute were the mainly American members of IDMA and their meeting was cancelled; those few that did turn up from this group attended the WFDB meetings. Both these organizations hold a meeting of presidents one year where much policy is debated, and there is a full congress the
following year which is much more social and usually endorses the decisions made by the presidents. In Istanbul there were full discussions on many current diamond problems, including synthetics and treatments. To this end the WFDB set up a new Technical Committee to monitor the new innovations and work more closely with laboratories. There was a long discussion and presentation on the financial position within the trade, with many traditional bankers trying to get themselves out of lending money to the diamond sector. A most important development was the signing of an agreement between CIBJO (represented by Dr Gaetano Cavalieri) and the WFDB to positively influence the developments in the international diamond and jewellery sectors. There would be full
Harry Levy honoured At the Gala Dinner held during the CIBJO Congress in Tel Aviv, Harry Levy was one of five CIBJO officers honoured for their work on behalf of the confederation and the global diamond and gemstone industries.
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agreement between the CIBJO Diamond Book and the IDC Diamond Book used by the WFDB. There would be standardization on disclosure for treatments and synthetics. There were mutual thanks between those delegates who came to Istanbul (we saw none of the demonstrations) and the organizers in Istanbul who gave us a most pleasant and enjoyable meeting.
Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Gems and Minerals
A new kyanite Cara Williams
FGA
reports on a fine quality, faceted, bluish-green kyanite.
Until a somewhat recent discovery in Nepal, facet-grade kyanite was rare. Fibrous, translucent kyanite from various sources was well-known in the mineral world but barely registered among gemmologists. The Nepalese kyanite, with its beautiful, rich sapphire appearance, was an instant hit when it was first found around 2001. Always requiring a double take, the colour is due to an iron-titanium charge transfer — the same charge that causes the blue colour of sapphire. In beads, blue and green kyanite colours are commonly seen, with the green being a softer mossy-to-celadon shade due to the presence of vanadium, but shades occasionally blend toward the teal tones. Around 2011, orange kyanite was found in Tanzania, with a vibrant orange colour which is due primarily to manganese. So, why all the talk of chromophores? Many gem varieties are distinguished by their colour, their origin, phenomena or chromophores — the elements within a gem that cause its colour. For example, ruby's chromium is what makes it other than sapphire, and when copper is present in tourmaline, it becomes legendary. So we at Stone Group Laboratories were pleasantly surprised when a new kyanite came through the lab with a distinctly different chromophore. Neither blue nor green, the colour was right in between and reminiscent of the colour seen in many bluish-green alexandrites when viewed under daylight conditions. Reportedly from Nepal, the samples we observed were nearly eye-clean and devoid of the colour zoning that is so pronounced in most blue kyanite. Small crystalline inclusions were visible in some samples, with small clusters of pinpoint inclusions seen in others. RI was 1.715–1.730. They all appeared a strong red under the Chelsea colour filter and fluoresced only moderately red under long wave ultraviolet. Pronounced dichroism was teal and grey. Whatever the chromophore was, it was possibly the cause of flooding (the equivalent of the machine being like a person having a bright light shone in their eyes at night) observed in our initial Raman analysis, which yielded negative results, but the FTIR spectroscopy revealed a match for kyanite in a critical region of the spectrum. The X-ray fluorescence proved more helpful and revealed a high chromium content along with some vanadium and minor amounts of iron, which possibly explains why the fluorescence is a bit weak.
With so much chromium and vanadium present, we then looked for possible colour change effects, but the colour remained teal under all lighting conditions. Green kyanite with up to 1.8 wt% Cr2O3 was reported from Siberia as long ago as 1936, and Cr-bearing kyanite is also found in Australia and New Zealand, but, as far as we know, this is the only commercial source of gem-grade teal-coloured kyanite coloured by chromium and vanadium. While still popular with lovers of unusual gems, the lower hardness of kyanite has made it more of a collector’s item in spite of its attractive colours. Its resemblance to other gems has occasionally caused problems at the bench. Blue kyanite does not have sapphire’s hardness; orange kyanite may look like spessartine garnet, but is certainly not as tough and teal kyanite may resemble alexandrite, but requires much gentler handling. While kyanite continues to masquerade as other gems, gemmologists and valuers will want to test carefully to distinguish these from spinel or chrysoberyl.
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Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Hands-on Gemmology
A rainbow… like unto an emerald Grenville Millington FGA describes his encounter with an ‘emerald’ that showed striking interference colours. 2a
2b
2c
1. Large green stone, 7.60 ct (the camera could not capture the full vividness of the green). In the Book of Revelation, 4:3, there is a puzzling reference to a rainbow being ‘in sight like unto an emerald’, and it was this quote that I thought of when examining what appeared to be an emerald. The stone was an intense, slightly darkish emerald green, measuring over 13 x 10 mm and weighing 7.60 ct. If indeed it was a natural emerald then its value would be exceptional! The chances were high, therefore, that it would be a synthetic emerald or glass. Inclusions were visible to the eye (1).
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On closer examination, and by varying the lighting angles, the inclusions could be seen to be long, more or less parallel to each other and at right angles to the table (2a,b,c and d). Under the microscope they appeared to be basically long, dart-shaped fractures with varying degrees of healing, displaying very small liquid droplets to larger films. Also the fractures had undulations or slight twists, which meant it was impossible to focus with the microscope on much more than a small section. One of the healing
2d
2. a,b,c,d The inclusions from various angles.
Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Hands-on Gemmology
5a 3
4a
4b
4c
4d
4e
3. Fine droplets seen in one of the fractures. Magnified 70x. 4. Fractures with fine droplets and/or broad films. Magnified 10x (a,b,c) and 40x (d,e).
fractures that allowed better visibility is seen in 3. Other views of the fractures are shown (4a,b,c,d and e). A breadcrumb-like, off-white inclusion headed a fine dart, and this comprised a recognizable ‘nail-head spicule’ (5a and b).
This was big enough to see with the 10x lens. Oddly, the direction of the spicule was about 45° to the general direction of the fractures. In more glancing light conditions, allowing shadowing, tell-tale growth effects made themselves easily visible, producing a ripple
5b
5 a,b. Nail-head spicule under different lighting. Magnified 45x. or heat-haze effect along one direction or a crumpled tissue-paper effect along another (6a,b and c), signifying a synthetic, hydrothermal product. However, the most spectacular effects were seen when the stone was placed under a polariscope (7a,b,c,d and e) and it was this phenomenon that prompted the comparison with a rainbow. The view in which the strong, parallel colour blocks were seen turned out to be the direction of the optic axis (8a and b) and the more textile weave-like colour effects were visible in the same direction that showed the crumpled growth effects. All of the above, observed before using the refractometer, gave the impression of the stone being a synthetic emerald of the hydrothermal process. New gemmologists
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Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Hands-on Gemmology
6a
6b
6c
6. Growth structures depicting hydrothermal manufacture. Magnified 30x (a) and 10x (b,c).
7a
7b
7d
7e
should always try to form an opinion or at least a shortlist of possibilities before reaching for the main gem testing instruments so as to build up their powers of observation. So, now it was confirmation time and the
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results of normal testing were as follows. The refractive indices were 1.572– 1.580. These readings were taken very carefully and more than once because the birefringence was higher than expected at
7c
7a,b,c,d. Under the polariscope brightly coloured patches changed their pattern depending upon the orientation. Magnified 10x to 15x.
0.008. The spectroscope showed very distinct chromium lines in the red with a well-defined doublet, and a line at 475 nm in the blue when the stone was tested in a direction close to the optic axis. Under the
Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Hands-on Gemmology
Chelsea colour filter the reaction was bright, full red and the stone was inert under longand short-wave ultraviolet light. All the test results were in line with the visual-only identification of synthetic emerald. The type is similar to the old Biron hydrothermally-produced crystals of around 25 years ago, with the exception of the slightly higher birefringence. With that product, the addition of vanadium explained the intensity of the green and the failure to fluoresce under ultraviolet light. Also different with this stone was the array of parallel, long dart-like fractures, so it may have come from another manufacturer. Was this grown crystal cooled too quickly or perhaps they were induced on purpose to make the imitation more emerald-like? In the testing, the strong and varied colours shown under the polariscope were the most arresting, so if we can imagine John, the writer of Revelations, with a polariscope and a synthetic emerald then we might be closer to understanding what was meant by describing light as a rainbow, like unto an emerald!
Editor’s note The Book of Revelations is the most mysterious and enigmatic book in the Christian New Testament, but for all his foresight and prophecies, John probably didn’t imagine the use of a polariscope. So what did he mean? The King James’ translation essentially says that around the throne of God there was a rainbow that looked like an emerald (Revelations, 4:3). We can’t brush this aside as one of the King James’ version’s rather creative approaches to translating gemstone names. All the translations into English, and the early Greek, Latin and Aramaic texts, use the word emerald or its ancient equivalent. There is some debate as to whether John originally wrote Revelations in Greek or Aramaic, but the local Greek written in Palestine seems most likely, although perhaps not the writer’s first language. Is there a clue there? The Greek smaragdos (emerald) and its Latin equivalent,
8a
8b
8a,b. The coloured blocks showed the direction of the optic axis. All photos in this article copyright Grenville Millington.
About the author For many years Grenville Millington ran his own gem and jewellery business and taught gemmology and retail jewellery at the Birmingham School of Jewellery
ultimately derive via Babylonian and other languages from the Sanscrit marakata which is still used in India for emerald. However, emerald was unknown in the Eastern Mediterranean and near Eastern world before about 300 BC, so perhaps it earlier applied to one or more other green stones. Malachite is a possibility — malachite certainly sometimes seems to have been considered as one type of ‘smaragdos’ in classical times — and we might even suggest there is a link in the names marakata and malachite (mix-ups between l and r are common in language history). The word used in the earliest Jewish versions of the Book of Revelations is bareket, which although normally applied to emerald, literally means ‘flashing stone’ and can be compared with the Arabic buraq meaning ‘lightning’. Is it not possible that John consciously or otherwise used smaragdos to mean the equivalent of the Hebrew bareket in the flashing stone sense — in other words the Throne of God was
surrounded by a rainbow like a flashing stone? It would make more sense. We can add a gemmological angle to this rather linguistic excursus. A Greek and Latin word for rainbow was iris. There was also a gem called iris. Pliny, our usual source for Roman gem information, is a bit unsure about this gem. He says that it was found on a island in the Red Sea — which might equate it with peridot — but adds that it has hexagonal faces and resembles rock crystal. Most interestingly for us, he explains that the gem was called iris as it could act like a prism in refracting light and thus produce the colours of the rainbow. He says that “When struck by the rays of the sun in a covered spot, it [iris] projects upon the nearest walls the form and diversified colours of the rainbow.” We might not know what John meant when he compared his gem with a rainbow, but it does look as if Pliny was the first European to talk about a gem splitting light and producing a spectrum.
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The Gem-A Conference and Events SAVE THE DATE Friday 1 November — Tuesday 5 November 2013
Understanding Gems Visit www.gem-a.com
TM
FRIDAY 1 NOVEMBER
Seminar day A series of practical workshops will be taking place at Gem-A headquarters in London. Guest speakers will include: Richard Drucker FGA GG Coloured stone grading and pricing workshop II Update on grading coloured gems with new grading methods and information Arthur Groom Exploring emerald clarity enhancements Craig A Lynch GG Is the porridge too hot, too cool, or just right? That is the answer! Somewhere in the Rainbow™ collection of green grossularite garnet and zoisite from east Africa, with hands-on study SATURDAY 2 – SUNDAY 3 NOVEMBER
GOLDSMITHS’ HALL, LONDON
Gem-A Conference Guest speakers will include: John Bradshaw GG Non-traditional gemstones: the rare, medium-rare and well done David Callaghan FGA In the beginning… The history of the London gem lab Dr John Emmett The colours of corundum: A search for the soul of a padparadscha Dr Emmanuel Fritsch GG Luminescence – what’s in a word Luminescence in gemmology from basic UV to photoluminescence in HPHT treated diamonds Arthur Groom Emerald clarity enhancement Brian Jackson FGA DGA Scottish gemstones
Dr Jack Ogden FGA Treasure, traders and trickery: The Cheapside gems in context Sonny Pope The future in coloured diamonds: An introduction to the HPHT multistep process Martin Rapaport The state of the diamond industry Gary Roskin FGA GG Mastering the challenges in diamond grading Shelly Sergent Somewhere in the Rainbow™ Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore! A look at the celebrated Somewhere in the Rainbow™ gem and jewellery collection Dr James Shigley The evolving challenge of gem identification
EVENING SATURDAY 2 NOVEMBER
Anniversary Dinner EVENING SUNDAY 3 NOVEMBER
Graduation Ceremony Guest speaker: Martin Rapaport MONDAY 4 – TUESDAY 5 NOVEMBER
Exhibitions & Visits Private viewings will be held at London museums, including the Cheapside Hoard collection at the Museum of London, the forthcoming Pearls exhibition at the V&A, and at the Natural History Museum. There will also be a private viewing of the Crown Jewels at the Tower of London. To find out more about all of the above visit:
www.gem-a.com/news--events/gem-a-conference-2013.aspx
Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Gem and Jewellery History
Silver, jewels and the lottery that wasn’t… London’s jewellers and goldsmiths of the 1700s are not so well-known to most today, but they produced some extraordinary objects and include some characters with interesting professional side-lines, from political conspiracy to piracy. Jack Ogden looks at one goldsmith, a possible political conspirator who found a cunning way to dispose of unsold pieces, and a contemporary who played a part in the same story while dabbling in piracy. The finest set of jewels ever made In February 1736 the London Evening Post reported on what it described as ‘the finest Set of Jewels… that was ever made’. The jewels, which included ‘a fine Diamond Stomacher, set on black Velvet, the Jewels thereon forme’d in the Shape of Butterflies, Serpents, and other Creatures… a Diamond Necklace, Ear-Rings, Solitaire, all exceeding large and noble, Diamonds for the Hair, Girdle Buckle, Shoe-Buckles, &c, the whole executed in an elegant Taste, and valu’d at above 20,000L’ (London Evening Post, 7 February 1736). This fine collection had been made for the wife of the Duke of Lorraine. A few weeks earlier Stanisław Leszczyski had abdicated the throne of Poland and had received in compensation the Duchy of Lorraine. His wife, the countess, was Catherine Opaliska. Contemporary portraits of Catherine don’t show much in the way of diamond jewellery, unlike those of her daughter Marie, who married Louis XV of France.
ounces of silver — which was made for him by Henry Kandler as a special order for a client who then decided it was too elaborate and no longer wanted it. The story of this remarkable piece of silver has been told before* but we can now mention some additional details.
Landed with the huge silver cistern and unable to sell it by conventional means, Jernegan resorted to a very cunning ploy. What about a lottery for it? As we have seen in these pages with the story of the Pigot diamond (Gems & Jewellery, April and July 2009) a lottery required government
The largest piece of silver The provider of this sumptuous set of jewellery was London jeweller and banker Henry Jernegan. He liked the large and sumptuous. He is best known for a truly vast silver wine cistern — some 7,000
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Henry Jernegan’s silver wine cistern disposed of by lottery. The photo shows a full-size electrotype copy made by Elkington and Company, Birmingham, and now in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. The original, which weighs some 7,000 oz, is the State Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg. Photo copyright Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Gem and Jewellery History
approval. In early 1735 Jernegan approached Parliament with a petition to allow him to hold a lottery, but after various approaches, he was told that he could not hold a draw for his object. However, at this same period, an official lottery was being planned by the government to raise money to build the new London Bridge. This gave Jernegan an idea…
A catalogue of jewels In 1737 a slim catalogue appeared bearing the words ‘For sale A large and elegant Variety of Gold and Silver Plate, Jewels, Medals, and other Rich and Valuable Curiosities, by Henry Jernegan, banker, among which is the fine great silver cistern…’ The only surviving copy of this catalogue that I am aware of was recently acquired by the British Library. It wasn’t exactly a sale, but before we explore exactly how these objects were to be ‘sold’, let’s look at the gems and jewellery jewels listed in it. There are many diamonds in various types of setting and combinations, including ‘A Brilliant diamond Ring, one fine Stone’, ‘A brilliant diamond ring, set with four Brilliants’, ‘A brilliant diamond Ring set in a True Lover’s knot’ and ‘A pair of very fine oriental ruby Ear-rings and Knots, set round with Brilliants’ There are a limited selection of coloured gems — rubies being most common — but others include ‘An emerald and diamond cross’ and ‘A fine large Aqua-Marine’. The actual numbers of coloured gems were rubies (19), emeralds (two), sapphires (two), aquamarine (one), garnet (two), plus pearls (one single, a pair of pearl-set bracelets, three pearls set in a box and a two-row necklace). There was also one ‘crystal’ and a ‘Green Agot’ set in a box. The relative quantity of rubies and sapphires are par for the period and a reminder that sapphires are not that common in European jewellery until the later 1800s.
A piggyback raffle Jernegan’s very cunning ruse was to dispose of all these items by means of a sort of parasitic lottery, for which he, and agents, sold tickets at 10 shillings each. He wasn’t
allowed to hold a draw, so he didn’t. He piggybacked on the official London Bridge lottery. Every lottery ticket drawn in that official lottery that did not win a prize, won a prize from Jernegan. The mechanics of this non-lottery by Jernegan is explained in his catalogue: ‘This Sale reverses the Division in the Bridge-Lottery, that is to say, Every Person who is so unfortunate as to have a Blank in the Lottery, will, for Ten Shillings only, be intitled [sic] to a Claim of Advantage in this sale.’ This meant he had to supply thousands of prizes, but most were silver medallions. Despite attempts by some authorities to stop his ‘sale’, it went ahead because technically speaking as there was not a separate ‘draw’ for his pieces, he hadn’t done anything wrong.
Landed with the huge silver cistern and unable to sell it by conventional means, Jernegan resorted to a very cunning ploy. What about a lottery for it? The winner of the huge silver cistern was a Major (different newspapers provide different ranks) Battine. Despite being thrilled by his win — and buying beer for neighbours to celebrate — he had little use for the huge silver cistern, and eventually it was sold to the Russian Empress in July 1741. Another London banking and goldsmithing firm acted as agents for the Russians — Messrs Belchier and Ironside — and it was transported to their offices in Lombard Street, London. After some hesitation about sending it, because of ‘fear it should fall into the Hands of the Enemy’ and a seemingly groundless rumour
after it had been shipped that the vessel it was on had been ‘captured by the Swedes and taken to Stockholm’, the huge cistern arrived safely in Russia and can be seen today in the State Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg.
Legal piracy William Belchier, the Belchier in ‘Belchier and Ironside’, was no stranger to seizure at sea. As well as describing himself as a banker and goldsmith, he was one owner of the so-called ‘Royal Family Privateers’, a group of four ships named after the royal family and which preyed on and seized enemy shipping — in essence legal (depending on the side you were one) piracy. The officers and crew were paid a percentage of the value of goods seized. Belchier made a good income from this business in the 1740s, despite later disputes and legal cases about fair division of spoils and his eventual bankruptcy. Belchier was also the subject of a famous satirical drawing about corrupt bankers. In comparison with William Belchier’s piracy, Henry Jernegan may seem a smart but less adventurous character. However, even Jernegan might have led a double life. We know Henry Jernegan was a Catholic. Papers in the National Archives reveal that he was suspected of helping to finance the cause of the Jacobite political movement in Great Britain and Ireland to restore the Roman Catholic King James II to the throne. So within the span of a few years we have the finest jewels, the largest piece of silver, a tale that wanders from London Bridge to St Petersburg, plus piracy and treason thrown in for good measure. The world of gem and jewellery history is seldom dull! The above, part on-going research by the writer, formed the basis of part of a lecture on the disposal of luxury goods by lottery given by the writer in New York in 2012. * Peter Cameron, ‘Henry Jernegan, the Kandlers and the client who changed his mind’, The Silver Society Journal, Autumn 1996.
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Gems&Jewellery / July 2013
Stone Scoop
Diamonds: the good, the bad and the ingested Liking diamonds is nothing new, nor is diamond imitation or diamond theft. Jack Ogden FGA looks at some old examples. The diamond is fairer than light itself The recent marketeers of diamonds were by no means the first or most effusive in eulogizing this precious gem. I think the prize should go to Edward McDermott for what he says in his book The popular guide to the International exhibition of 1862: “There is none so low or so poor as to be unable to find pleasure in the admiration of the splendour of these gems. In the domain of intellect, where surely the gewgaws of ornament should be lightly esteemed, diamonds are prized. In an artistic point of view, the diamond is one of the most beautiful things in Nature. No painter, were he ten times a Turner, could do justice to its effulgence — no poet, were he greater even than Shakespeare, could put its lustre into words. Light was the first and fairest gift of Heaven to man; the diamond is fairer than light itself; it is light, only seven times beautified and refined. For one-half of the human race diamonds are delirium — the true eyes of the basilisk: their power over the fair sex no one will dispute, and no woman could truly profess herself indifferent to their fascination… The man who bedizens himself with gold or jewels is in general denounced as an empty fop, but the wearing of a fine diamond marks its possessor as having a superior taste for what is admirable and beautiful.”
Acid test You also needed to know right from wrong, since, as the Australian media reported just a few years later: “The more valuable an article is the more it is counterfeited, and the
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greater the perfection to which falsification is carried.” And yes, the writer was talking of diamonds. He went on to say: “It by no means follows that because a man deals in jewels his honesty must be of the first water, and the fact of a purchaser having paid for a diamond is not always proof that he has obtained one.” The problem according to the writer was that although there were existing tests for the genuineness of diamond they were chiefly optical ones requiring special apparatus and skill. So, it was with some enthusiasm that a simple and infallible new test devised by an Italian chemist called Massimo Levi was described. You put the diamond into “a leaden or platinum cup, with some powdered flour spar, and a little oil of vitriol; warm the vessel over some lighted charcoal, in a fireplace, or wherever there is a strong draught, to carry away the noxious vapours that will be copiously evolved. When these vapours have ceased rising, let the whole cool, and then stir the mixture with a glass rod to fish out the diamond.” If the stone was a true diamond it will be intact, if a glass paste it would be corroded or “would disappear altogether”. The fluorspar plus oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) when heated will generate hydrofluoric acid, a highly corrosive acid that does indeed dissolve glass. I am sure the test works a treat, but health and safety regulations prohibit us from including it in our syllabus for our Diamond Diploma practical. (Source: Border Watch, Mount Gambier, South Australia, 11 Aug 1869.)
Inside story on theft Diamonds have always been a target for thieves — the whole way up the supply chain from mine to shop counter. Almost
a century ago one South African diamond miner had the bright idea of using X-rays to find stolen diamonds that couldn’t be found through a simple strip search. Wait, you say, diamonds wouldn’t show up on X-rays. So explain this then from the April 1919 issue of Electrical Experimenter magazine: “One of the successful schemes which has been worked out by the superintendent of a large South African diamond mine… involves the use of a powerful X-ray machine having several X-ray bulbs excited simultaneously. As each miner passes before the X-ray bulbs, the examiner looks thru his fluoroscope and rapidly swings it up and down, so as to take in the entire body in a few seconds. This system of detecting the presence of a diamond, no matter whether it is buried in the flesh, resting in a throat cavity, or even in the stomach — an almost unbelievable practice resorted to in several instances on record — the X-ray examination quickly indicates the presences of the diamond.” Could have been the potential for an interesting scam there. Demonstrate the X-ray machine to the mine owners using lead-glass imitations of diamond (which would show up on X-rays) and then take a cut on all the real diamonds that were easy to smuggle out thereafter…
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Business Support: Insurance |
Robbery What to do if it happens to you In the aftermath of an attack it can sometimes be difficult to know just what to do next and for the best. Insurer TH March offers some essential guidelines on the steps to take. n last month’s security feature we highlighted the vulnerability that can arise from poor security procedures and advised on how to avoid becoming a victim of robbery, armed or otherwise. Hopefully it will never happen to you. But what if, despite your best efforts, you are unfortunate enough to experience an attack on your premises? Some of the following advice may appear to be blindingly obvious but, as many crime victims will tell you, when shock sets in it can be extremely difficult to think logically. A simple tick box list of essential steps to take may well help to focus your mind in those first traumatic moments. Getting it right could also significantly increase the chances of catching and bringing the perpetrators to justice.
staff who have been injured and who may be in need of emergency medical assistance. Finally if you have a description of the offenders, their vehicle and/or the direction in which they made their escape, it is vital that the police are informed of this at the outset.
That first call to the police: who, what, where, when… Call the police immediately and give very clear details about what has just happened. Until they arrive, secure the premises and don’t allow anyone else in (or, where possible, out), even if there appears to be little to indicate that a robbery has taken place. Keeping the scene as undisturbed as possible will optimise the chances of collecting useful forensic evidence and may eventually help the police to find and convict the perpetrators. Robberies, particularly on a busy high street, are dramatic and will attract the attention of inquisitive onlookers – possibly the local press along with people who genuinely wish to offer help. However, allowing extra people onto the crime scene could destroy vital evidence. If a customer does insist on leaving before the police arrive it is important to take their name and address as they may be an essential witness. When talking to the police during that initial call, inform them of any customers or
What you CAN do While it is still fresh in your mind, write down the exact sequence of events along with any other details you remember. Everyone present at the time of the robbery should try to do this too but don’t compare notes! Such discussion among potential witnesses at this stage could have the effect of altering an individual’s unique recall. Checking your memory of an event with someone else is a sure way to plant the seed of doubt in your mind about what you’ve seen.
I
Resist the urge to clear up the mess There may be fingerprints, palm prints, shoe marks, broken glass, possibly even traces of blood. The robbers may have dropped something such as hand-written instructions, a weapon, etc. Don’t assist the criminals by clearing away evidence. And as tempting as it may be to try and make an initial assessment of the loss by checking your remaining stock – don’t!
Secure video or photographic evidence One person should be responsible for securing such evidence. Under no circumstances should you ever play back a video or view any images recorded during an incident. Doing so would negatively affect the usefulness of such evidence and may seriously detract from the value of statements later given by any witnesses who might have viewed it too. Such evidence should always be offered to the police at the earliest opportunity.
Dealing with the press Unfortunately, jewellery robbery is extremely newsworthy so it is highly likely that there will be interest, particularly among the local press. Never disclose names and addresses of staff or witnesses, don’t confirm the value of the property stolen or give any details relating to the perpetrators. Leave it all to the police. If you have inadvertently made any unguarded comment to the press it is always best to inform the police of exactly what has been said.
Image courtesy of Bandit UK Ltd
Looking after colleagues Any robbery is a traumatic experience, an armed robbery even more so. If a member of your staff needs a referral to a qualified counsellor your insurance may well cover the cost, so clearly it is important that you know what your policy covers. Otherwise an individual’s GP or Victim Support may be able to help. Contact your insurers Do this as soon as possible and your broker will be able to advise you on how best to deal with your particular situation. It may be that there has been damage to your premises and you need to close for repairs. You may need time to restock or perhaps key members of your staff are temporarily unable to work. Whatever the scenario, if you have well-arranged business interruption cover, your business will be protected. Help protect others in the jewellery trade Consider contacting the SaferGems team (www.safergems.co.uk) to report the details. Doing this may protect another jeweller and it could potentially help to identify the criminals who targeted you!
The Voice of the Industry 31
| Opinion: John Henn
From our man in Tel Aviv... In Part Two of his overview of the CIBJO Conference held in May in Tel Aviv, John Henn offers his perspective on further issues under discussion. fter the CSR presentations of Day One, what else can I tell you? Well, for a start, that emeralds are being glued together with resin (a bit like liquorice allsorts) and rubies are arriving in Europe that are pretty much lead glass with a touch of ruby. They are 85 per cent glass and 15 per cent ruby when you see the stuff separated – it is incredible that these stones are getting into the supply chain. The advice on the street is to talk to your suppliers and tell them what you expect them to deliver. It is quite possible that the lead in the glass within these stones may be above the acceptable safe limits of the current EU Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) directive. That subject was discussed at length by the Precious Metals Commission, which, in the absence of its own chairman, was very professionally chaired by the Birmingham Assay Office’s Marion Wilson. Currently within the nickel category there is the possibility for a product to pass, fail or to have ‘no decision’ (i.e. neither pass or fail) so the Commission sent the delegates back to
A
20 salads… served within seconds of being seated!
32 The Jeweller July 2013
their respective countries to request that this be addressed rather than wait for someone to take a retailer to the European courts and find them guilty of poisoning their spouse. As Marion and I considered the wording for this resolution, I found myself looking at a keyboard with an unnecessary number of full stop keys and a whole new row of Hebrew ones. Trying to type on this PC keyboard (I use a Mac!) directly onto two 5m screens in front of the delegates, reminded me of a lesson I read at the wedding of a friend – when I looked at the church’s Bible for the first time mid-way through the ceremony, the text only barely resembled the one I had practised, the church’s Bible having been written several hundred years earlier than my version. After a few dead ends and finally convincing myself this was only a regular keyboard in disguise, we arrived at the appropriate text and the vote went through. The church reading, on the other hand, I have to admit, was not one of my finest… The Pearl Commission is attempting to structure a pearl grading system that is accepted by all; there are currently four or
five systems used mostly in Asia and the Pacific, so we will keep you informed of any progress there. There will be an attempt for the coloured stone labs to talk more to each other around the world. Presently the metal testing labs and assay offices share knowledge with each other all the time to their benefit, but the gem labs are a more suspicious lot so efforts will be made in the coming year to improve this. The Trade Show Commission will do likewise and all the world’s principal show organisers, from Russia to the US and Europe, will share best practices in a attempt to improve exhibitor and visitor experiences. Finally the EU Commission will lobby the authorities to level the playing fields between jewellery manufacturers in Europe who are selling in Europe, and those producing from outside the EU at a lower standard and then selling within the EU at a much cheaper price – albeit on the grey edge of legality. On Day Two we were treated to a tour of the Israeli Diamond Bourse where $17 billion of diamonds were traded last year, representing 20 per cent of the country’s GDP. And on Day Three I saw a Rabbi on roller blades making deliveries! In a restaurant we were served 20 salads only seconds after we sat down which, along with home-made lemonade, lamb kebabs and mint tea, left us fit to burst… and all for under £16 a head. We learnt soon after that the port of Jaffa (where we were at the time) has a history going back 9,500 years, yet the country of Israel is only 65 years old. It is a shame they were not blessed with a Napoleon or Christopher Wren-type figure who may have laid the city out with some elegance, as it seems a bit higgledy-piggledy. The narrow roads are all jammed with traffic, and aerial electrical wirework which would have Health and Safety in the UK pull the switch on the whole place. However the people were great, the streets were safe, the taxis charged less than we expected and their drivers gave us a guide as to how the city worked. All in all it was a good visit and it should be noted that a number of conversations outside the congress were had over a wide range of glorious fruit juices, during which time NAG services were promoted. Nothing happens quickly in this political world but we, the British delegation, will continue to stand up for the rights of the customer… we will never surrender.
Is the appetite for silver jewellery as strong as ever? It would seem that it is, particularly now that prices have a settled down a little. Belinda Morris looks at who’s creating and selling what… and why.
ENDURING
silver aving stuck my neck out in last month’s issue and said that there’s a growing interest in gold jewellery (thanks, in part, to more stable raw material prices), the fact still stands that silver collections are performing as well as ever. Despite the escalating cost of this metal also (or maybe because of?) the consumer’s appetite for designer and branded silver jewellery continues to be strong. And as a result of this there are some retailers who have had to rethink their buying strategy – there is a place for silver amid the gold, platinum and diamonds. Martin Fleet of Sheila Fleet has noticed the shift: “We are getting more enquiries from customers who would have traditionally been classed as goldsmiths or fine jewellers, who are now looking at our silver and enamel collections to complement a smaller range of gold and platinum stock they now hold,” he says. “Silver has long been thought of as a precious metal and as the recession
H
34 The Jeweller July 2013
continued for a number of years, the price has become an important part of customers’ choice when buying.” Has silver always been thought precious? Observed from a consumer angle it’s all about personal perception. If budget (or fashion)
The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin
Ariane Rocher
has dictated that costume jewellery in base metals is for you, then silver represents an aspirational step up the ladder. Traditional jewellers of course have taken a different view – but that’s changing. “Silver is increasingly becoming recognised as a precious and valuable metal,” says Diane Smith, head of product management at Links of London. “When Links was founded we had a unique proposition, but the abundance of brands and own-bought ranges in silver signifies that its presence is now fully established in the market place.”
Feature | Buddha adds: “It’s not only about cost… the look of silver has definitely become more fashionable too.”
No question of silver’s status in the eyes of Melanie Wakefield of Wakefields the Jewellers in Horsham. “Silver is a precious metal. Gone are the days when a man would come in and spend £1,000 on gold jewellery for his wife, every birthday and Christmas,” she says. “That woman now comes in herself and spends £200 to £300 on silver jewellery, telling us that this represents better value than a pair of shoes or a handbag! The gift market for women is driven by women – we have tapped into that and it has been very successful.”
making room for silver
Georg Jensen
Breuning
Given the number of brands out there now, there’s certainly no question that retailers and consumers alike have plenty of options when it comes to silver. As Colin Louison, director at Gold Major says: “Affordability (compared to gold and platinum) as well as striking designs and marketing strategies allow traditional jewellers to offer a wider choice of product.” Adryan Cresswell of Hot Diamonds also feels that increasing price sensitivity among consumers has contributed to the shift “but at the same time silver brands have been raising their game, encouraging many retailers to look at this market for the first time,” he adds. Economics is certainly only part of the equation, as Sander van Veen, international sales manager of Buddha to
Judith Lockwood, IBB Amsterdam’s country manager UK, agrees that attitudes have changed. “In the time that I have been with the company, we have been through a transitional process with our retail partners. When my team and I talk with a new retailer these days they are very open to silver. The high-end and traditional jeweller is now the same,” she explains. “It is a long time since I have had to educate a jeweller about stocking Ti Sento. They are open to the benefits – footfall, quality, increased volume and bringing in a younger customer, a more fashion-forward client or a new consumer completely.”
This chimes very neatly with the purchasing habits of a particular demographic as Unique’s Daniel Ozel points out. “Younger clients like to change their look quite often and are not prepared to invest a lot of money in jewellery,” he feels. “Silver is more affordable than gold or silver and then there’s the trend towards branded products (silver in particular) – they’re becoming more and more popular with the end consumer.” The MY iMenso collection of coin-based Soha Sardinia
interchangeable jewellery that Unique introduced recently, stands out from most competitors in this area by being made in sterling silver. With a foot in both camps, Ed Ferris of silver and CZ Diamonfire jewellery and retail
Ralph Masri
The Voice of the Industry 35
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AmiAnna
group Swag, is well-placed to comment on the change in attitude towards non-gold jewellery. “We have seen a big increase in the number of traditional jewellers moving into silver in their stores, as well as silveronly stores being opened by the same retailers,” he says. “Silver collections are vital to your product mix to make sure you have something affordable and more fashionable and that you are bringing in new customers all the time.”
… [a] woman now comes in… and spends £200 to £300 on silver jewellery, telling us that this represents better value than a pair of shoes or a handbag!
Dower & Hall
36 The Jeweller July 2013
Not just that, but also multiple sales possibilities, according to Emma Finney at So Jewellery. “Silver’s accessible price-point means that there’s potential as an add-on sale if a more expensive item is being purchased alongside it, or on a repeat purchase basis,” she says. Barbara Rossetti-Bellm of Breuning is particularly enthusiastic on the subject. “It’s been an amazing turn-around! Not long ago Breuning worked only in gold and platinum. But with the change in the economy and the metals market we ‘saw the light’ and started taking some of our best-selling designs and producing them in sterling silver,” she explains. “Then, as the trend continued, our designers began creating exciting new collections in silver and they were too good to pass up! And now, almost all of our ‘traditional’ jewellers have come on board and made room in their stores for this important metal. There is still a handful of strictly gold/platinum jewellers – but the number is small. Basically retailers have to stock according to their customers’ desires in price and design.”
LucyQ
Looking at the situation from a slightly different angle, Andrew Mills, trade sales manager at CW Sellors, highlights the fact that the rising cost of silver has had an impact on buying decisions. “Jewellers have always sold silver, but as they were mainly lower-price pieces they didn’t want to invest too heavily as they made higher profits selling gold,” he says. “Silver pieces can now sell for hundreds of pounds and offer the same level of turnover and profit that gold used to. Also, white jewellery has been increasing in popularity over the years,
Buddha to Buddha
The view from the shop floor “We have a clear basis for choosing a silver (or any) collection – we ask ourselves: “Is this adding to our core values of quality, aspiration and luxury?” If the answer is ‘yes’ then we look further.” Joe Milner, Tustains, Leamington “We have always offered silver jewellery, but not to the extent that we do now. Personally I draw the line at base metal jewellery collections. I hear the return rates are high, and I cannot diversify to that degree. I ‘can't be all things to all men’, to quote a good friend of ours!” Melanie Wakefield, Wakefields, Horsham “Consumers aren’t bothered what the material is, it is the design and the price point they are looking at. The best example we have seen in Swag is with Coeur De Lion – no-one minds what the material is, they love the look.” Ed Ferris, Swag Jewellers “I have always seen silver as a precious metal. Some pieces can be high value and fine quality – you cannot belittle a purchase just because it isn't gold! Silver ranges we have stocked over the years have been of higher quality than a lot of the gold jewellery that is on the high street.” Sarah Sinton, Richard Sinton Jewellers, Newcastle Upon Tyne “All customers have their own criteria for a jewellery purchase. If someone wants 18ct you will seldom talk them into 9ct, let alone silver. But brand-driven customers are not precious about metal type – the brand/design is the driver.” Joe Milner, Tustains
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Goldmajor
but not everyone can afford white gold, platinum or palladium.” New designer maker Anna Byers, who will be showing at IJL in September, also feels that there is an upside to the rising price of silver. “Because silver is much more valuable than it was five years ago, I think it has gained greater respect as a precious metal,” she says.
it comes to silver – good jewellery design using fine quality silver does stand out from lesser quality pieces.” Beirut-based designer Ralph Masri who showed at the recent Jewellery Show London, also agrees that price is only part of the picture. “I feel that customers are becoming much more design-conscious now,” he says. “If it’s design that one is after rather than material value then silver comes in as a great, affordable option. I think that gold is becoming more about status than anything else now.” Joe Milner of Tustains in Leamington Spa agrees that aesthetics are a vital part of the mix. “I try to think of jewellery in terms of what it will mean to a potential customer,”
Hot Diamonds
John Rocha
he says. “And I think currently that design is more important to our customers than material. So… design, plus quality, plus price, equals winner!” The lure of a designer collection is clearly a major factor in the attraction of silver. “Retailers who sold only gold and platinum, may [think of] offering silver designs that are created by fine jewellery designers who put their name on a collection,” explains Duncan Groves, who, with decades of experience at Charles Fish under his belt, is now helping Raji Ashwin launch her AmiAnna silver jewellery collection. “Offering silver jewellery gives an opportunity to get more customers into their retail environment and a chance for more customers to buy
raising the bar Fashion and finance might be playing their part, but another designer maker, Lucy Quartermaine of LucyQ, thinks that fine jewellery retailers are more accepting of silver because of manufacture. “Silver jewellery is now being made to the highest of standards – the quality of the finish and design is far more developed than it used to be,” she says. “We work with only the finest silver and all our designs are polished to give a mirror-like finish and made to the highest standard that’s possible for silver. I think customers are quite discerning when
Bouton
Rodgers & Rodgers
38 The Jeweller July 2013
into a designer’s work,” he adds. He also cites own-brand concept stores, shop-in-shops and a younger purchasing market where silver is the colour of choice, as reasons for traditional jewellers to “keep on trend”.
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Creel & Tidal Treasures
NEW COLLECTIONS
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Feature |
Jorge Revilla
Sheila Fleet
Because silver is much more valuable than it was five years ago, I think it has gained greater respect as a precious metal…
Fei Liu
greater possibilities to demonstrate different looks for individual customers.” Designer maker Alexis Dove feels that the high cost of gold, coupled with the fact that customers are not spending as much on impulse, has led to more jewellery retailers
A knock-on effect of the rising cost of gold is that it has given some designer makers, who usually create pieces in only gold or platinum, the impetus to look at silver as well. The benefit for the consumer is clearly demonstrated in the most recent collections by Fei Liu who has been able to apply the craftsmanship and techniques more commonly reserved for gold jewellery, to silver work. Result… the same beauty and attention to detail as fine jewellery but much more affordable. “It also gives us the opportunity to try more extraordinary designs,” explains Liu. “I also think that modern design has enabled silver jewellery to become much more interesting and influential and has given the market
Kirsten Goss
being accepting of silver. “Consumers want more for their money – I can create much larger pieces in silver – and the story behind the brand and the design becomes far more important to them,” she says. “It also helps that there is added value in that it is British designer jewellery made in the UK.” For those brands and designers who have always worked with silver, the current lower price has allowed for more freedom as far as scale is concerned – and when compared to the cost of gold of course, silver has always been more practical when it comes to freedom of creative expression. “Being affordable commercially it allows the
The Voice of the Industry 41
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Diamonfire
manufacturer the option of investing more in the finishing and design rather than concerning themselves too much with the raw material cost,” says Sam McDermid. “Silver is very versatile and it is still possible to make much larger pieces in it than in solid gold,” says Dove. “I am interested in creating designs that are more grown-up and on a larger scale. My new collections are based on ancient Greek mythology and the idea of the modern goddess, so bigger and more exciting pieces are important.
I have always used a lot of hammered and textured finishes and this works well with the ancient theme and look lovely in silver and vermeil,” she adds. Dorothee Pugnet, head of women’s jewellery for Links of London also appreciates the fact the silver offers her a generous amount of free reign when it comes to design. “I like the endless possibilities of working with it,” she says. “Being a much more affordable precious metal it gives me the opportunity to create more complex and voluminous pieces.” Paul Wendt of Barbarini Fashions, which acts for Soha Sardinia jewellery in the UK, explains that the lower price of silver has also benefitted the brand’s design. “We are happy with the current price as it enables us to do heavier, highly qualitative pieces while retaining a good price proposition to the consumer,” he says. (Soha specialises in very individual designs based on the filigree tradition of Italy, and Sardinia in particular.) Designs inspired by filigree work are a strong design trend currently. Its beauty aside,
Pandora
the open work effect has obvious pragmatic benefits, with some brands, such as Gecko and Gold Major, incorporating the look to allow for a bolder feel, while cutting down on the precious metal content (particularly helpful when silver prices sky-rocketed). inspiring design
Ti Sento
Ask designers making in silver why they like working with the metal and a few commonalities emerge – its bright luminosity, its flawlessness, the fact it looks good against all skin types… all are cited. “Silver is one of my favourite metals to work with. Ductile, malleable and naturally white, it will ‘do as it’s told’,” explains Raji Ashwin. “The colour, look and feel of silver can be transformed in numerous ways.”
Silver stats Stateside In February this year The Silver Institute conducted research among US jewellery retailers into silver jewellery buying trends – here are some of the findings: • 77% said their silver jewellery sales increased in 2012 • 20% saw an increase of over 25% • 74% increased their inventory of silver jewellery in 2012 an average of 28% • The age group buying the most silver jewellery is 20-40 according to 62% of retailers • The best selling opportunity with silver is female self-purchase (47%) followed by gifting (31%) • 62% said silver jewellery is very important or important to their business • 90% said they were optimistic that the current silver boom will continue for the next several years
42 The Jeweller July 2013
Fope
Feature | Originally a matte finish was very much a feature of the John Rocha jewellery designs – giving the range an organic feel and look. “Over the past 10 years we have moved into more of a semi-matte/satin finish which stills gives that feel but with slightly more lustre to the pieces,” explains Kela Ledwidge, acting marketing director. “Rose gold vermeil My iMenso
“Silver is extremely versatile,” adds Lucy Quartermaine, speaking for many. “You can add all sorts of finishes to the material and these can be easily maintained, so the jewellery continues to look beautiful. It also works both for traditional design, yet can be used to create very fresh and contemporary styles.” Along with many others, Georg Jensen has incorporated different finishes for its silver pieces. “We work with a highly polished surface, a silk matte surface or a combination of silk matte and oxidised,” says Penny Grivea, UK managing director. “The beautiful way that silver reflects the light gives you more options than with gold jewellery – that’s one of its strengths.”
Links of London
At Links the ‘soft and feminine’ polished finish is a defining aesthetic, but in a few cases facets, deep cuts or a ‘frozen’ texture are added to either reflect light or create depth. Along with many other brands and designers – such as Gold Major, So Jewellery and Kirsten Goss – platings and treatments, such as vermeil and oxidisation, offer further variety. The re-launch of Links’ woven bracelets along with the accumulation of a round, polished shape also create textural interest within the collection.
Alexis Dove
Anna Byers
and black rhodium plating have been exciting introductions to our latest collections – they add colour and interest to the silver and work very well [when layered]. The Lace collection uses real pieces of lace from John Rocha's design studio, impressed into the original models to give a look and feel of genuine handmade lace.” “We love to work with brushed finishes to keep our jewellery looking handmade, and contemporary,” explains Rachael Rodgers of Rodgers & Rodgers. “And we often experiment
Sonal Talgeri Bhaskaran
“All of our [Ti Sento] silver pieces are rhodium-plated which gives an incredible look to the jewellery,” says Lockwood. “But we also create some interesting finishes – we have had snakeskin and we have handpainted a blackened finish onto our ‘bubble’ range rather than just blacken it in the usual manner. For autumn we are introducing ruthenium-plating onto the silver.”
The Voice of the Industry 43
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| Feature When compared to the cost of gold of course, silver has always been more practical when it comes to freedom of creative expression…
Sophie Harley
Unique Jewelry
with oxidisation at the sampling stage, although our customers tell us they love the brushed finish and I think this is what our collections are known for.” In addition to a variety of finishes, designers are also combining silver with other metals, such as rose or yellow gold, for bi-colour effects, as well as introducing coloured stones and, in the case of Ralph Masri, diamonds into the mix. “We're big fans of incorporating Swarovski stones in our silver designs,” explains Gecko’s co-head of design Vicky
Gecko
known to coat it with metallic car paint! More conventionally, So Jewellery offers a range of silver set with amethyst, topaz and black onyx and plans to extend the line for next spring with peridot. As well as amber (of course) Gold Major combines its silver pieces with freshwater cultured pearls, mother of pearl, marcasite (for a vintage
So Jewellery
Leyshon. “The colours and sparkle of these gems are unparalleled. I also enjoy working with carved mother of pearl, which works well with the majority of our silver ranges.” Georg Jensen’s Art Deco-inspired ‘Nocturne’ collection combines high polished silver with oxidised silver, black diamonds and black agate. Anna Byers, meanwhile combines silver with acrylic, stainless steel and coloured gemstones, as well as plating it with 22ct gold, rhodium or ruthenium. She’s even been
44 The Jeweller July 2013
Lapponia
look), faceted glass beads and garnet. Designer Sheila Fleet finds that the bright, neutral look of silver is the perfect complement to the enamel which features frequently in her collections. So, precious or not, it matters little if the look, quality and price is right. “Silver collections are here to stay – with or without their own branding,” says Melanie Wakefield. “My team loves silver jewellery. They wear it, play with it and talk about it – they’re passionate about it… and it shows!” I
FOPE.COM
Luxury gold and diamond jewellery from Italy For your nearest stockist, visit www.fope.com Jewellery illustrated from the Flex’it “Vendôme” collection
| Feature
Viva Las Vegas! Olga Gonzalez reports on last month’s JCK show in Las Vegas and the stand-out collections she discovered… nce a year Las Vegas hosts one of the most important trade shows within the jewellery industry – JCK. The 2013 show has been successfully steered, with the event taking place over four days at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center. With buyers and exhibitors from the UK across the convention, the halls of this year’s show had a noticeably positive energy running through them, as new products were revealed, services offered and ideas exchanged.
O
Lord Jewelry
Buyers enjoyed educational seminars on the ‘State of the Diamond Industry’ with Martin Rapaport, jewellery catwalk shows from the Silver Promotion Service and talks in conjunction with The Knot, a premier wedding network within the States. There were half a dozen specialty seminars on watches, and Plumb Club members (45 leading jewellery manufacturers) enjoyed a breakfast talk with Steve Forbes (editor of business magazine Forbes) who spoke about changing times for the jewellery retailer. Some buyers from the UK travelled to the show to capitalise on Sterling’s purchasing power against the US dollar, saying they were able to find unique vendors for good
46 The Jeweller July 2013
prices in Las Vegas. Exhibitors from the UK often reported that they enjoyed doing the show as it meant that they could touch base with their American clients, most of whom come to JCK. The first two days of the show proved to be a busy time for Gem-A as a plethora of budding future diploma students, seasoned gemmologists, dealers, writers and trade professionals dropped by to express their enthusiasm for the Gem-A Gemmology Diploma course and FGA designation, or to learn more about it through the open distance learning programme. Gem-A’s stylish lanyards, office supplies and canvas bags were also inevitably popular, prompting many visitors to swing by and ask where they could get “one of those fabulous Gem-A bags”. Alan Hakimian, from Yoko by Euro Pearls, commented that: “Overall the show has been good, with lots of appointments. Our hottest items of the moment are round and baroque pink pearls, which range from 10-15mm in size. They sold well at Basel too, with customers wanting the pearls mixed with pink sapphires on statement pieces.” In general I found that the exhibitor consensus was a satisfaction with the flow of serious buyers walking the aisles. London designer Babette Wasserman echoed this observation, saying: “There is a good, steady progression of buyers – mostly from the US. It’s great to be here, exhibiting for the first time in Vegas.”
Stambolian
Loretta Castoro
The Design Center was attractively updated with posh black signage, and the excellent merchandising of another London-based company booth, Tateossian, in its relocated space, impressed me. How does this location compare to the previous one? “The new space is much better, with more traffic and interest. It has been a very positive show. Buyers come to the booth and are often pleasantly surprised by the type of cufflinks we do,” said Thomas Lacoume, pointing out that they specialise in unique and novelty cufflinks. The ‘Rare Stone’ collection consists of limited edition or one-of-a-kind pieces, all in 18ct gold and featuring many gemstones. New York-based Elena Kriegner had a lot of interest from buyers in her ‘Diamond in the Rough’ men’s jewellery line, a collection that store owners gravitated towards due to its unique design and moveable cufflinks, such as those that move within a cage. Chris Ploof also found that his men’s collection of meteorite jewellery was highly soughtafter, with store owners expressing their customers’ interest in gold and meteorite rings for wedding bands. One interesting find was the increased use of alternative pink gemstone jewellery among American designers. Loretta Castoro beautifully incorporated kunzite and morganite within her ‘Loves Doves’ collection, and Miami-based Strambolian made stunning pink opal drop earrings and a matching cabochon ring. Omi Gems showed off a stunning pink tourmaline and diamond ring in the Luxury section of JCK; these pieces show that not all that glitters rose is a pink sapphire, ruby or diamond. Overall JCK has moved in a positive direction with the majority of exhibitors happy with the increased traffic and sales, and buyers happy with the quality of goods and networking events. So, a toast to those who keep looking and moving up instead of down; to the hard work put into organising the event and for the Brits who trekked over to help create such a successful show!
The Voice of the Industry just got even louder... The Jeweller — now incorporating Gems & Jewellery magazine!
/ No. 5 me 22 3 / Volu July 201
Jeweller the
July 2013
£7.50
Inco
rporat ing
The Voice of Th e Indu stry
Gems &Jewe ller y
July
2013 / Volume 22
/ No.
5
Gem -A’s new An hom eme e rald The lottery rainbow that was n’t
me new ho Gem-A’s inbow ra ld ra An eme wasn’t ery that The lott
Silver jew
ellery – st ill whett Diamond certifica ing the appetite the papertes – are they wor th they’re Outlining new polic written on? ies for th e NAG
The Jeweller magazine now incorporates Gem-A’s
Importantly for potential advertisers the magazine
magazine Gems&Jewellery within each of its nine
will now be distributed to even more key individuals
issues per year and is now distributed to all Gem-A
and companies in the UK as well as overseas.
members, thus increasing the The Jeweller’s overall
With relevant editorial features, a competitive rate card
circulation to over 6,000.
and now an increased circulation of 6,000+ giving
Gems&Jewellery retains its own cover and identity
a readership of 25,000+, all the numbers add up to
within The Jeweller and will give readers a regular
The Jeweller being your first choice for targeting the
insight into the fascinating world of gemmology and
UK jewellery industry.
gemstones. This, in addition to its comprehensive coverage of all matters concerning the UK jewellery industry, will help maintain The Jeweller’s reputation as the authoritative jewellery trade publication and reinforce its position as ‘The Voice of the Industry’.
To advertise in the magazine contact sales director Ian Francis on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: ian@jewellers-online.org For subscriptions call Amanda White at the NAG on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: thejewellersubs@jewellers-online.org
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THE WORLD’S NUMBER ONE FINE JEWELLERY EVENT September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair |13 – 17 Sep 2013 Exhibitor list of IPP in 2013 Aaron Basha Angela Buchwald Jewelry Annamaria Cammilli Gioielli Srl Antonini Arte Diore Atasay Bapalal Keshavlal Bayco Jewels Bizzotto Gioielli Blue River / Jewel Decor Christian Bernard Group Carla Amorim Ciaravolo Crivelli Damaso Euro Pearls / Yoko London Ltd Facet Barcelona Gembros Jewelry Co Ltd Graziella Group Spa Hellmuth, Gert GmbH House of Baguettes NY Inc Italian Design srl Jewelmer International Corporation Kuwayama Corporation La Reina Leo Pizzo Spa Lili Jewelry
Louis Fiessler & Co GmbH Magerit Marcel Robbez Masson Mousson Atelier Nouvelle Bague Firenze Palmiero Jewellery Design Pippo Perez Pranda Group Ramon RCM Srl Roberto Bravo Samra Jewellery Co (L L C) Sartoro Shanghai Laofengxiang Company Limited Shenzhen SYM Jewellery Co Ltd Stefan Hafner Sutra Jewels Inc Tokyo Khio The Fifth Season Thien Po Ltd Tivon Fine Jewellery TTF Jewelry Unrounds Utopia Valente Milano Zancan Spa Information as of 10 June 2013
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| Feature
Diamond certificates – the truth will out Diamond certificates. Love them or hate them they are here to stay. They provide reassurance for the consumer and a full picture of all a stone’s attributes. They have long since ceased to be simply a note of colour and clarity, though they are still primarily used for this purpose. Recent enquiries by members have prompted a joint venture by the NAG and Gem-A to look into the reliability of these laboratory reports and how they genuinely compare to each other. Gem-A CEO James Riley reports. uch of the discussion about different laboratories tends to be anecdotal and a general feeling about the reliability of them is built up largely by hearsay and a ‘feeling’. What is certain is that different reports on an apparently identical stone will attract a totally different price in relation to each other, and that if the same stone is sent to different laboratories, different opinions will be given. This last point is crucial. A lab report is an opinion and no more and there is a large quantity of small print declaring that it is not a legal document etc. At the NAG IRV Conference in Loughborough a few years ago, a debate was held about whether a lab report was worth the paper on which it was written. David Callaghan
M
and I successfully argued that it wasn’t and carried the day. The amusing aspect – which might give rise to concern – is that our opponents, Eric Emms and the late Brian Dunn both freely admitted that they could easily have spoken for our side! It’s said that knowledge is power but on this subject it could be argued that knowledge is dangerous. Those who have undergone diamond training, such as GemA’s Diamond Diploma, will know that these reports have questionable validity but the public, and even the untrained salesperson who has done no more than read around the subject, has increasingly become brainwashed into believing that a diamond must have one of these pieces of paper.
The inference is that if it doesn’t then there is something wrong with it. The market determines whether we have these things and which is the most reliable… the market demands we have them. Let’s look at which it values most but then, more importantly, let’s also look at how the different labs compare. So to come at this from a new angle we took seven stones from the Gem-A stone collection, all of which have been there for 30 years plus. These are used for teaching and as such were graded by the Gem Testing Laboratory in the 1970s, and in the 1990s when it also issued GIA reports. We took these stones, which had a known grading, and submitted them first to the commercial market leader GIA to provide a current benchmark but also a ‘then and now’ comparison between its opinion in the past, and now. These stones have subsequently been submitted to the companies providing laboratory reports here in the UK and also regraded by Gem-A’s education staff. The findings are startling. Below are two tables of results which raise significant questions over the validity of reports in general rather than the labs themselves.
Colour Stone weight
Gem-A lab (Gem Testing Laboratory)
Gem-A Education
GIA
Anchor
British Gemmological Institute
Solitaire Gem Lab
0.37 0.40 0.44 0.44 0.53 0.54 0.56
H H D F L G J
G G D E J H G
F G E E J G I
G G D E K H I
F G D D J H I
G H F G I I H
Stone weight
Gem-A lab (Gem Testing Laboratory) VS2 Si1 VS1 Si1 Si1 VS1 VVS2
Gem-A Education
GIA
Anchor
VS2 VS2 VS1 Si1 VS2 VS1 VVS2
VS1 VS2 VVS2 VS2 VS2 VS1 VVS2
VS2 VS2 VS1 Si1 Si1 VS1 VVS1
British Gemmological Institute VVS2 VS1 VVS2 VS2 VS2 VS1 VVS2
Solitaire Gem Lab VS2 VS2 VVS2 Si1 Si1 VVS2 VS1
Clarity 0.37 0.40 0.44 0.44 0.53 0.54 0.56
50 The Jeweller July 2013
Feature | The labs have been disclosed as we have paid for their opinions which are in writing on the reports. It can be argued that many of these results are similar but for me it is clear that there is virtually no direct correlation between the perceived market leader GIA and each of the other different labs. Indeed if one takes the largest difference on colour and clarity and attaches a price to it then one is looking at a difference of 25 per cent on price. This is an unacceptable state of affairs as it would be unreasonable to expect the end consumer or even small independent retailer to do this level of research. Each of these labs will claim a degree of infallibility and that its particular grade is the correct one. It has to believe this in order to justify its existence, fees and the report itself. I do not presume to state which is the best or worst. The next step will be to gather more international reports as well as opinions from UK dealers.
To read these reports one might think one was looking at a different diamond, at least to the untrained eye… These results show a worrying inconsistency, first in the area of colour. My education team graded the stones by eye and got to within a single grade of the perceived market leader. Why is it then that labs with socalled GIA master sets can be two grades away both from the GIA themselves and even each other? Colour is subjective but with a master stone to compare to, these should be much closer. Clarity is less subjective so why are we seeing VS2 stones graded as VVS? The concern here is that there are massive numbers of reports being produced in the UK alone and they are being used by leading UK suppliers to offer a full service to you their client. Some even exhibit the logos of the NAG, BJA and CMJ on the certificate. I’m fairly sure that, while they might be members, those organisations do not actively endorse a laboratory. It’s a fine line but I believe this misleads the customer and gives kudos to a certificate when it is not warranted nor given. Again this is misleading to the client.
There are two other issues regarding these reports which also call them into question. The first is that there was an inconsistency regarding the dimensions of the stones. This is calculated by scanning the stone with a laser using something like a Sarin machine. Certainly, to read these reports one might think one was looking at a different diamond, at least to the untrained eye. The differences are only around 0.02mm though with one the difference was 0.12mm. The knock-on effect of these inconsistencies is that the same machines produce a polish and symmetry grade and in some cases a
proportion or cut grade. So we have an example of a ‘fair’ symmetry on a GIA report and ‘very good’ on another. Given that perceived wisdom states that one should buy a stone which says ’excellent’ or ‘very good’ it is easy to see how if you were buying a stone just according to this piece of paper – say over the internet – you would not end up with what you believed you were buying. Most labs do have ISO accreditation 9001, but in the UK I believe only Anchor has the higher level ISO 17025. The Gem Testing Laboratory also had this level but attaining it required rigorous standards. The machinery described above should be regularly checked and calibrated. I might suggest respectfully that some might need to do this as a matter of urgency. The second issue is that of fluorescence. All of the stones submitted were graded by Gem-A and GIA with ‘nil’ or ‘faint’ fluorescence. One lab had every stone fluorescing with a grade as high as ‘strong’. This makes the stone far less desirable on the market as it generally tends to dislike stones which fluoresce. This natural phenomenon can enhance a stone’s beauty and be a positive, but prices do not reflect this. It is true that many stones will fluoresce if left for a long period of time under UV but there is a set amount of time during which a stone should be exposed to the UV light and
The Voice of the Industry 51
¯
| Feature
of course a set wavelength. Clearly there is no consistency here either, again giving rise to misleading information.
In private many will acknowledge that in the key commercial area of G–I colour and VS2 – Si1/2 clarity the goalposts have shifted. The fact is that stones which were Si1 are now VS2, particularly in regard to central inclusions and if they are black. Cynics might suggest that these very marginal but still noticeable shifts are to meet the increased demand for these types of stones. There simply is not enough of the old grade G VS2 around to satisfy demand. Diamond grading is not cut and dried. Each of the grades is a band of quality. What I am suggesting is that these have subtly shifted downwards so that say a top quality H of the past is now a low quality G. Who cares you might say! Well the price difference for that subtle change is around 10 per cent. The old argument was that diamond grading was subjective. It has always been accepted that one grader to another might be one grade adrift as described above. The question is how much variation is acceptable. I would suggest very little. Labs charge a fee for their work
It has always been accepted that one grader to another might be one grade adrift as described above. The question is how much variation is acceptable. I would suggest very little. Let me say now that all of the labs used here in the UK try to maintain high standards. It is very easy to point the finger of blame. My issue is that the lack of a common standard gives rise to misleading information for jewellers and ultimately the customer. A lack of knowledge and training in the market exacerbates this problem – together with a common attitude of infallibility from the labs themselves. Everyone makes mistakes. A further issue might be raised – there has been a perception for some time that grading of stones has become softer over time so that a stone graded 20 years ago might now receive a higher grade. This is largely borne out by the above where for example the GIA reports of today are giving better grades on the stones than when they were graded by GIA-trained and authorised personnel in the past. The problem here is that no one will dare to admit this.
52 The Jeweller July 2013
and have a duty to be as accurate as possible. There are ISO standards 9001 and 17025 and, while most conform to the first, few if any conform to the second. For over 30 years it has been possible to colour grade by machine and it is possible to measure the number and size of inclusions mathematically in relation to the rest of the stone. Subjectivity can be largely removed but as yet we seem reluctant to do so. The Sarin machine and others like it have meant that we should be able to state exactly the dimensions of stone. However on the international stage all the big players have their own settings to determine cut grade, polish
and symmetry. It is simply not possible to compare apples with apples. New machinery has been developed to measure light return in diamonds – surely the ultimate definition of quality for cut and clarity combined. Will this technology be implemented? It is possible to define diamonds by their type very accurately and detect most treatments. We can even measure the amounts of any impurity. Why is it then that we are content to accept such variations in the grading of our most valuable merchandise and the largest slice of our sales? This is a festering sore which will not go away but unlike other issues affecting our industry it is easy to solve. In the coming months we will add to the database with overseas laboratories and even get the opinions of diamond dealers on the stones. Anyone interested in looking at this area more should read the recent JCK article describing a similar exercise undertaken by Rapaport. I If you wish to express any opinions on this matter please contact our editor Belinda Morris by email at: bmorris@colony.co.uk
| Regular
Notebook
Where to go, what to read, what to see…
Exhibitions July Current-8th September: Amazing Amber, National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh The UK’s largest exhibition of amber, exploring how it was formed, its use throughout history and how it is studied by scientists. Stunning contemporary amber jewellery is shown alongside ancient Scottish pieces. www.nms.ac.uk August 2nd-26th: Dazzle@Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh An exhibition of Brooch by Heather Woof 50+ contemporary jewellery designers working in a variety of media from the precious to the highly unusual. www.dazzle-exhibitions.co.uk September 14th September-24th February 2014 Masterpieces: Art and East Anglia, Sainsbury Centre, Norwich Around 250 objects, including jewellery, that this region has inspired, produced and collected – from antiquity to the present day. www.scva.ac.uk 21st September-19th January 2014 Pearls exhibition at the V&A In collaboration with the Qatar Museums Authority, an exhibition exploring the history
of pearls from the early Roman Empire through to the present day. www.vam.ac.uk
Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs
September 1st-4th: International Jewellery London, Earl’s Court, London Sponsored by the NAG, a showcase for every aspect of the jewellery industry, including cutting-edge designer collections, major jewellery and watch brands, fashion jewellery, gemstones and retail services. See next month’s issue for a full show preview. www.jewellerylondon.com
July 21st-23rd: Scoop International, Phillips Gallery and Saatchi Gallery, London SW3 A handful of directional jewellery makers are among the fashion designers showing at this boutique trade event – names such as Katie Rowland, Liu Jo and Isla Fontaine. www.scoop-international.com
14th-16th: NAG IRV Loughborough Conference 2013 A week earlier than usual, the must-attend seminar and workshop event for all valuers (and anyone else with a passion for gemstones, fine jewellery and precious metals). See p24 for further information. Contact: irv@jewellers-online.org
August 4th-6th: Pure London, Olympia Accessories, including jewellery, is an important sector of this fashion exhibition, with brands such as Lola Rose, The Branch and Sam Ubhi unveiling new lines. www.purelondon.com
18th & 19th: Executive Development Forum, location to be confirmed Two all-day forums for senior decisionmakers and an opportunity to receive expert guidance on a range of business and retail management. For further details nearer to the time, please contact: amanda@jewellers-online.org
8th-12th: India International Jewellery Show, Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai Close to 1,000 exhibitors showing loose diamonds and gemstones, plain gold and gemset jewellery, antique jewellery and mass-produced jewellery. www.iijs.org September 6th-10th: Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, Impact, Bangkok, Thailand Around 1,500 companies showing gold,
Book Review Ultra Vanities – Minaudières, Nécessaires and Compacts by Meredith Etherington-Smith (£18.95, Double-Barrelled Books) Published in conjunction with an exhibition being held at Goldsmiths’ Hall until 20 July, this book looks at the history of three centuries of the design of these jewelled objects. Photographed in great detail it sets the highly indulgent small works of art within the social and fashion contexts of their creation – perfectly formed adjuncts to the glamorous lives of those who carried them throughout the 18th to the 21st centuries. Made using a variety of gemstones and other precious materials, they also reflected the style of leading jewellery houses such as Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels.
54 The Jeweller July 2013
NAG Diary Dates
silver and other jewellery, as well as gemstones, equipment, tools and services. The organisers also offer a Business Matching Service for buyers. www.bangkokgemsfair.com 11th-17th: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, AsiaWorld-Expo and Hong Kong Convention Centre Around 3,500 international booths showing in two venues: one housing jewellery raw materials including loose diamonds, gemstones and pearls, the other showcasing finished fine jewellery in various themed halls. exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com 15th-17th: Top Drawer London, Olympia Fashion and silver jewellery collections, from names such as Lily Charmed, Martick and Pomegranate are among the 700 brands offering gifts, fashion and lifestyle products. www.topdrawer.co.uk
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The Voice of the Industry 55
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The
Last Word This month we give The Last Word to Eamon Gaughan, entrepreneur and chief executive of JEEG Global Group which owns The Bullion Room. Personal Profile After an early career in the tourism industry in London and following a stint in the US, Manchester-born Gaughan gravitated towards the business of selling jewellery. His father, Eamon Senior, who had been in the wholesale jewellery trade for 25 years, was able to provide some useful contacts and Gaughan then went on to open his own shop on Spencer Street in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. However, rather than selling jewellery he gained renown for offering extremely good prices for scrap metal. The move led to the establishment in 2005 of JEEG Global Group, a multi-sector, multinational investment company involved in the supported development and acquisition of small and medium enterprises – The Bullion Room, also in the Jewellery Quarter, is one of these. The business is particularly known for its expertise in processing and recycling scrap gold, silver and platinum. Gaughan’s passion for luxury cars has also led to the most recent business – the Torque Project. Who has been the biggest influence in your life? My father. We are polar opposites and he has an incredible, calming influence on me and my manic lifestyle. What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? In my view… eccentric, generous and understanding and according to others I am enthusiastic, creative and dynamic What one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? I would listen more. My father gave me a lot of advice while I was growing up which I wish I’d paid more attention to as I now realise it wasn’t just advice… it was really knowledgeable, good advice. To what do you attribute your success? Hard work and fair practice.
58 The Jeweller July 2013
If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry what would it be? I would love to see a return to quality manufacturing using traditional skills, many of which have died out over the years. I love quality. If not the jewellery industry, what might have been your alternative career? I’d like to have been an airline pilot.
Favourite shopping destination? My favourite place to shop is without doubt Causeway Bay in Hong Kong. I love to spoil my niece and it’s the perfect place to find some amazing gifts and designer items. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Sandy Lane, Barbados, and Qualia in the Whitsunday Islands. They are totally remote and places where I can switch off from the rest of the world. I have to have a destination that’s more than a five-hour flight away otherwise I’ll nip back to check on things at work! What is your chosen form of exercise? Swimming. I’m by no means a fitness fanatic but I have a swimming pool at home and enjoy swimming while away on holiday too. I find it relaxing. Quick Fire • Red or white wine? White • Diamonds or coloured stones? Diamonds • White or yellow metal? Yellow • TV or radio? TV • Jewellery on men? No • Delegator or control freak? Control freak • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles • Paperback or e-reader? E-Reader
The last film you saw at the cinema? Life of Pi – amazing! Great animation and a real technical marvel. Tell us something not many people know about you… I can fly a helicopter! I saw learning this as a bit of a challenge though I must admit I don’t fly very often. I much prefer four wheels on the ground!
Life of Pi(lot)