The Jeweller June 2011 by Zest Europe

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Jeweller June 2011

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The Watch Issue the increasing strength of classic and luxury timepieces Spotlight on Security

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Association

The Voice of The Industry

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Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

J U N E

Time Lines

1 1

timepieces are driving the watch market today

Mary Brittain investigates the many and varied benefits of selling coloured stones

Spotlight on Security

Taking a more physical approach

TH March offers a round-up of security advice to protect against robbery

Training for the human element

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

Belinda Morris discovers that classic and luxury

Cashing in on Colour

Communiqué

NAG News

Member of the Month

Education & Training

IRV Review

BJA News

BJA Simon Says

Jeweller Picks

Opinion: John Henn

Legal Jeweller

Antique Jewellery

Notebook

Display Cabinet

The Last Word

Good management pointers from the ‘Jewellers’ Personal Safety & Security Guide for Robbery’

The tigers return

Michael Hoare reports on a worrying trend

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

but gives a more optimistic SaferGems update

News, views and services

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

The National Association

Sales Director: Ian Francis

of Goldsmiths

Tel: 020 7613 4445

78a Luke Street,

Fax: 020 7613 4450

London EC2A 4XG

ian@jewellers-online.org

Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris

Cover Image Luisa Rossi with her Maurice Lacroix Fiaba To become a stockist call 00800 777 00888 www.mauricelacroix.com

Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk BJA Marketing & PR Manager:

Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org

Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

Mary Brittain, John Henn,

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Miles Hoare, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

casters, consolidators, shippers, traders, and bullion dealers at a workshop hosted by De Beers. Phase three will commence shortly.

for more than £3 million worth of goods; we are disrupting crime and aiding arrests; and plan more meetings in June and October 2011. At the back end of the month I am on the Genesis panel at the Bank of England reporting on our sector’s experience of the economy over the preceding six months, using the results of a survey conducted by our Information Department. Comparing our data with those obtained a year ago it was clear that there had been a dramatic percentage swing, such that forty per cent of respondents reported lower confidence; an almost complete reversal of last year’s result! Similarly, those forecasting lower growth has jumped from 17 per cent in January 2010 to over 40 per cent in February 2011.

February – The first in a series of ‘Round Table’ meetings which took place early on, covers the subject of ‘Succession Planning’, and is reported extensively in the March issue of this magazine. Subsequent meetings will investigate Shrinkage – The Insider Crime; Action for Market Towns and other matters of concern. As well as stimulating interesting and informative articles for The Jeweller, the ideas generated will also be turned into member benefits. Invited to address members of the Houlden Group later this month – primarily to report on the progress of their Executive Development Group – I also take the opportunity to remind delegates about other recent NAG joint initiatives. These include the Institute of Registered Valuers and SaferGems, whose police liaison meeting took place mid month in London. With a dozen police forces at the table, our coordinator was able to report on the first full calendar year of data collected. Details are in the April edition of The Jeweller, but in short over 500 reports in 2010 accounted

March – Security issues are back on the agenda in March, with a London Jewellery Security Strategic Group meeting, with the Metropolitan Police Service Flying Squad, taking place in the first week. In concert with many of the major jewellers, BJA, Lloyds, NPA, and the MPS, we are developing a set of minimum standards for retail jewellery security in London that has the potential for dissemination throughout the trade. Subject to final approval they will soon be available for distribution and, together with the advice of one’s insurance advisor, will provide a template for security. See the Security page of the May issue for more details. A busy day mid month sees us pack in a Council and Education Committee Meeting as well as the annual Education Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall. The latter has been extensively reported but the Council & Forum, at the Museum of London, is noteworthy for its focus on the ‘Grow Your Own’ theme that has been the object of our promotions this year, and featured at The Jewellery Show in February. Three speakers, Chris

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

With half a year under his (mock croc nappa?) belt, CEO Michael Hoare reports on the stand-out meetings, moments and missions that are part and parcel of the world of the NAG.

Dear Diary It’s June already, winter seems ages ago, Easter came and went, and here we are with nearly half the year already flown. Is it really true that time vanishes as you get older? It certainly feels like it, particularly when you take a look over your diary and survey the times, dates and issues that have come and gone. It’s a salutary reminder of our changing times if nothing else, and confirmation, if it was needed, of the many fronts on which a trade association must be active in promoting its members’ interests, and moderating the trading environment. Conscious that our next major event, the EDF Oxford Congress on 16th June, almost marks the axis of the year, I have been reflecting on months just passed. Here are a few highlights. January – The New Year and a new initiative for the jewellery trade! 2011 is the year in which many members of the Responsible Jewellery Council face their first audit against the Code of Practice. It’s also the year when the RJC cranks up its consultation on a chainof-custody standard. At the back end of the month I’m the sole retail representative brainstorming the feasibility of such a standard in the company of gold miners,

4 The Jeweller June 2011

Comment | Wade, Leon Foster-Hill, and John McDermott, cover action for market towns, extending working lives, and the safety net provided by the Retail Trust, and a dedicated newsletter reporting the events of the day is subsequently circulated by email. We will be doing follow up work with all three speakers’ organisations, and extending the scope and attendance of the next Council & Forum in October. Put the 18th in your diary now! Somewhat overstretched by events and charged with fielding a team at the CIBJO Congress in Portugal the same week, we are sadly missing at the CMJ Buying Exhibition, and hope to do better next time. April – Like most of Britain we are in the grip of Bank Holiday fever for some of the month and it passes in a blur, leaving behind a backlog of email detritus. Save for a London Jewellery Week Ambassadors’ meeting early on, April’s main event was the launch of the Government’s Red Tape Challenge. All the froth kicked up about the threat to hallmarking is in danger of concealing the other important retail issues, namely Sunday opening hours and legislation about Weights & Measures. NAG distributes an advisory email to members mid month and signs up to a joint letter with BJA, NPA, CMJ and Houlden advising Downing Street of our concerns. Much of the rest of the month is taken up with writing and responding to articles about what becomes known at Luke Street as the Scrapheap Challenge. May – The ultimate variety of a Trade Association career! One week, lunch at Goldsmiths’ Hall in the presence of the Chancellor of the Exchequer, the next at the National Motor Cycle Museum in the presence of Chris Garland! I leave you to decide between the merits of the Trial of the Pyx on the one hand and the Bransom user group meeting on the other. For me, both were equally important. The RJC Annual General Meeting takes place in London on Tuesday 24th May. Having withdrawn from the NAG’s Founder Directorship, as required by the company’s Articles, and offered myself as a representative for the Association Forum, I hope that by the time you read these words I will be re-elected unopposed, and will continue to participate in Board meetings. But not for me the enticing prospect of foreign travel. Despite the officers and directors being located in the US, Canada, South Africa, and various European countries, I will remain firmly rooted in London, participating by teleconference. Isn’t Skype a blessing! June – In no particular order: British Silver Week; Pewter Live; the International Jewellery London Advisory Board; Salon at Treasure; the Hatton Garden Festival; the NAG Annual General Meeting and Luncheon at Goldsmiths’ Hall. Not to mention the EDF Oxford Congress – which is where this all began! Have a lovely summer!

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

The long-established Swiss names are still a might to be reckoned with… they have always dominated the premium and luxury market and ever more so now…

nother day, another clear blue sky and not the whiff of a rain cloud (apologies to those north

of the border – I know things are different there). Normally a cause for celebration, but you

know that you’re getting old when you start to worry about the farmers and say things like “the garden needs the rain”. I realise that I always seem to be talking about the weather – such a British preoccupation – but it has implications. It stands to reason that a spot of sun prompts a rush on summer frocks and bags of salad, but what does it do for us? Does a prolonged spell of dry weather bring about a yearning for jewellery-related retail therapy in our sector? Or do potential customers just sit at home and fret about global warming? Let’s hope it’s the former – especially earlier this month during London Jewellery Week. I trust that those of you who held or attended events found the celebration of our industry to be successful and inspiring.

Page 32

One sector of our market that appears to be sitting fairly pretty – come rain or shine – is timepieces. Watch lovers will always be watch lovers and the really serious guys (it tends to be guys, but the situation is changing, some women are discovering the benefit of multi-ownership) aren’t deterred by such a trifle as a downturn. No sir, they’re as obsessed by craftsmanship, heritage and complications as ever and in fact, as this month’s watch feature discovers, it’s this classic end of the horological world that is currently driving the market. All positive stuff, except of course that carrying the top end brands (as more retailers are seeking to do) brings with it complications of a more worrying variety. As I write, yet another robbery on a jewellers has taken place (thankfully thwarted this time) and it is a further reminder, should we need it, that security is an element of business life that cannot be brushed under the carpet. From physical deterrents to good management practices

Many offenders will look to identify premises where they can pass unnoticed, a simple “Good morning” or “Can I help you” will discourage the less determined offender.

and insurance implications, our special section on security this month offers guidelines from experts in the field. Do we always seem to be banging on about this subject? Good – we make no apology for it, it’s important. Which is more than can be said for this whole FIFA, Sepp Blatter, allegations malarkey. Yes, I know it has nothing to do with jewellery, but I just want to know why we need to care. Why is it top-of-the-news stuff? Why do all those guys have chauffeur-driven limos? It is, after all, just football. Answers on a postcard please…

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 46

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Demand for platinum jewellery falls fter an extremely strong 2009, gross demand for platinum in jewellery fell by 14 per cent in 2010 to 2.2 million ounces, as higher prices affected consumer purchasing. These findings were presented to the trade during the Platinum 2011 Review held by Johnson Matthey in London last month. The decline was also attributed to adequate levels of manufacturers’ stock and a greater focus on producing gold jewellery. However, demand from China was described as ‘robust’. Economic uncertainty in the eurozone, along with lingering effects of the recession and elevated platinum prices led to the demand for platinum ‘softening’ to Image courtesy of Johnson Matthey 175,000 ounces in 2010. Numbers of hallmarked jewellery pieces produced in the UK (and Switzerland) showed an increase in 2010, demonstrating some underlying growth in consumer demand. However, the total weight of hallmarked platinum in these markets declined, suggesting that consumers were choosing smaller, lighter pieces in response to the price change. While gross demand for palladium has fallen in this period, a healthy interest in palladium jewellery in the UK has seen a number of manufacturers adding it to their product ranges and retailers augmenting their stock levels. 2010 saw a 40 per cent rise in the demand for this metal in Europe, much of the 70,000 ounces accounted for by UK jewellery manufacturers. Palladium continues to to gain popularity as a metal for men’s wedding bands, where larger, chunkier designs can be made at a price competitive with white gold. Johnson Matthey forecasts that the price of platinum will average $1,870 per ounce in the next sixth months – compared with an average of $1,762 during the six months to the end of April 2011. Strong physical buying in China means that it is unlikely to fall below $1,750. Supplies of palladium are expected to decline in 2011 and the price is therefore forecast to average $825 in the next sixth months.

Aargaard to sponsor IJL catwalk JL 2011 will open with ‘The IJL Runway’, a new catwalk running the entire length of the Boulevard. Sponsored by the Danish jewellery brand, Aagaard, two shows are scheduled for each day of the UK jewellery event – providing visitors with a dynamic showcase of designer jewellery. “IJL was the first of the UK jewellery trade shows to feature a catwalk and we have decided to re-create this initiative at the 2011 show to highlight the superb quality and diversity of design and craftsmanship at the show. What makes it different, however, is that each catwalk show during the four days will be unique in order to generate maximum interest and freshness,” says event director Syreeta Tranfield. The Runway shows will run under eight separate themes – ranging from Modern Vintage to Fairtrade and Ethical. A host of top designers and brands will supply key pieces worn by models. Henrik Esborg, Sales director at Aagaard, which carries Lovelinks among other brands, explains that the show is a natural fit for his company. “The Runway is designed to inspire and excite visitors, as well as add a real buzz to the show floor. As stunning design is at the heart of our brand we are delighted to be involved in such a high profile project.”

Tony Rudell passes away ony Rudell, owner of Rudell the jewellers of Wolverhampton died suddenly last month, aged 64, after suffering a severe stroke at his home. Hundreds of people attended his funeral at Birmingham Jewish Cemetery. Roundy, as he was known to his friends was involved in the family’s jewellery business from the age of 20 and as well as helping to develop it, was also a tireless fund-raiser for various charities. Jon Weston, managing director of Rudell said his friend would leave a lasting memory with those who knew him as a man with indomitable spirit, unlimited kindness and an inspirational love of life. “To say that he will be greatly missed does not adequately cover the huge

8 The Jeweller June 2011

loss that so many of us will feel,” he says. “I have lost a very, very close friend. Roundy has been like a second father to me, I will continue his wishes of ‘the show must go on’ and practice the great things he has taught me over the last 22 years.” Peter Lunn of Lunn’s in Belfast, who has known Tony since they trained together in the sixties, will cherish many fond memories of his friend. “Both Tony and myself joined Stuart Laing in founding Houlden Jewellers 35 years ago. His knowledge of the trade combined with his terrific relationship with many of our suppliers and his phenomenal sense of humour added very real quality to our board meetings,” he says. “He was a

wonderful friend to me… and he will be deeply missed by all of us who had the privilege to know him. A light truly has gone out in our world with his passing. The sympathy of all of us in Houlden as well as Lunn’s go out to his lovely wife, Ricky.”

Industry News |

Joanna Lumley models charity auction jewel worldwide auction of a diamond studded gold necklace, created by jeweller Catherine Best, will close at 20.00 GMT on 17th June, during a star-studded gala evening at the Savoy Hotel. It is hoped that the 18ct gold Shere Khan necklace, modelled here by Joanna Lumley, will raise at least £300,000 to help save the wild tiger from extinction. The necklace is delicately enamelled and adorned with 11.952 carats of round diamonds, over seven carats of emeralds which combine to highlight the jeweller’s pièce de résistance – each magnificent tiger, male and female, holds a heart in its paws. The male embraces a 27 carat rubellite tourmaline while the female boasts a diamond weighing over four carats. The necklace has been valued at £500,000. Anyone interested can bid by visiting www.bornfree.org.uk/necklace

S N I P P E T S Online diamond price benchmark launched for India India got its first ever diamond price referencing system for consumers when IDEX Online launched its Diamond Retail Benchmark in April. The announcement was made in conjunction with the All-India Gem & Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF) in Bangalore. The benchmark is presented in rupees. GJF Chairman Bachhraj Bamalwa said, “The release of the price benchmark highlights the GJF’s commitment to the industry as it will address a long-standing need of jewellers and consumers.” Bamalwa observes that the timing of this release was most appropriate as the industry is currently grappling with rapidly escalating prices. Toronto to host IDMA meeting

IJL unveils KickStarters for 2011 nternational Jewellery London has announced the KickStart designers for the event this September 2011. KickStart is an initiative which acts as a commercial launch pad for the promising designers selected to take part, providing a boost for the industry and allowing retailers to source products from the best new design talent of 2011. “KickStart is supported by the British Jewellers Association, and was launched as a bursary scheme for fledgling jewellery designers. We recently hosted a workshop with the new designers ahead of the show to prepare them as they enter this challenging commercial world and develop their business. IJL leads the way as a jewellery event which launches careers and nurtures excellence, bringing fresh new talent to the industry,” explains event director Sam Willoughby. The line-up of BJA members who have been selected as the KickStarters for 2011 is as follows: Mirapuri, Gina Melosi, Cabbage is King, Claire English’s Special Jewellery Co, Abigail Stradling, Sarah Ibrahim, Emma Turpin, La Diosa, Amy Keeper and Doreth Jones.

The Jeweller magazine new advertising contact details ales director Ian Francis’ contact details have now changed. To book display advertising space in The Jeweller call him on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: ian@jewellers-online.org For classified advertising email Neil Oakford at: neil@jewellers-online.org

The 2013 Presidents’ Meeting of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA) will take place in Toronto, Canada. “Diamond manufacturers need to have a full understanding of where the diamonds they purchase and process are mined,” IDMA’s president Moti Ganz explains. “Presidents’ meetings are perfect opportunities not only to discuss the particular issues and problems that concern our segment of the supply pipeline, but also to get to know the countries, mines, mining locations, governmental institutions and companies that are involved.” IDMA has recently joined the Responsible Jewellery Council. New jewellery buying workshop A new one-day workshop teaching the secrets of buying high-end gem set jewellery has been devised by Steve Jordan SIRV and NAG Fellow and Eric Emms, professional gemmologist and educator. Judging the quality and values of diamonds and colour gem-set jewellery and the excellence of fabrication of jewels will be demonstrated and discussed. Attendees will handle representative jewels and are encouraged to bring their own pieces to the day. The first workshop will be held in the Hatton Garden area on 6th October and costs £235. For more details contact Eric Emms on tel: 07973 725 266 or email him at: ericemms@aol.com

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Diamond Jubilee hallmark launched he UK Assay offices have joined forces to launch a commemorative hallmark to celebrate HM The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012. The limited edition optional Diamond Jubilee Mark, approved by the British Hallmarking Council, depicts a young Queen Elizabeth wearing an oversized crown in a diamond shaped surround. It will be available from all four UK Assay Offices in combination with a statutory hallmark, from 1st July 2011 until 1st October 2012. In the history of hallmarking there have only ever been three other commemorative marks: one to celebrate the Silver Jubilee of King George V in 1935; one to mark HM The Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977 and then, in 2000, a Millennium Mark. A launch party, in the presence of HRH Princess Michael of Kent, will take place on 5th July, 2011, at Goldsmiths’ Hall.

S N I P P E T S RJC certification for Signet The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that Signet Jewelers has achieved certification meeting the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC’s Member Certification System. Signet Jewelers’ certification encompasses all of its US and UK operations, which total over 1,800 retail locations. Last month the RJC announced that the French Union of the Watch and Jewellery Traders has become a member. Laing appoints new director

Stock’s diamond dream raham Stock, former head of sourcing at Hot Diamonds, has realised a long-held dream to start his own jewellery business and launched Nathan & Stock. The three brands under this umbrella include it Diamonds, a line of rhodium-plated pieces, each cast and hand-finished and set with a 1pt conflict-free diamond. Despite the extremely commercially-prices (from £9.64 to under £18 wholesale) the range has been given a luxury look thanks to high-gloss finish wooden gift boxes complete with polishing cloth, care card and gift bag. The company also produces tailored POS material. www.nathanandstock.com

Scotland’s oldest family jeweller, Laing the Jeweller, has appointed Richard Laing to be a director. He is the sixth generation to carry on the family tradition and his career with the company began at the age of 16 when he worked in the Frederick Street store, Edinburgh, during school holidays. “To have a sixth generation of the family take forward the business is a fantastic feeling. The Laing brand in Edinburgh remains strong, and I’m looking forward to seeing Richard take it from strength to strength,” says MD Michael Laing. Links launches wedding range Links of London has launched its first ever collection of engagement, wedding and eternity rings, which sit alongside other lines such as Love Note and Hope (the white topaz egg earrings worn by Kate Middleton in her official engagement photos). The engagement rings feature a single solitaire diamond set in either yellow or white gold. These and the wedding rings are manufactured in the UK. New service from Curteis

New Charles Fish shop celebrated he recently refurbished Charles Fish shop at Canary Wharf salon was launched at a London Jewellery Week party. Customers and press were able to meet three of the store’s most popular designers: Shaun Leane, Alexis Dove and Ruth Tomlinson. Part of the Fish Brothers Group, Charles Fish has two jewellery shops, one in Canary Wharf and the other in High Wycombe. The Group, has nine Fish Brothers shops in the Greater London area and also operates two Swarovski boutiques in Chelmsford and High Wycombe.

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Curteis Creates is a new service which has been developed by jewellery manufacturer Curteis, allowing its retail customers to benefit from and take advantage of its experience and facilities for their individual jewellery projects. The team can provide advice and guidance for any project that the jeweller might require. Services include CNC technology, lost wax-casting, assembly and finishing. For more information call Craig Rogers on tel: 01691 690086 or email him at: craig@curteis.com

Seven million reasons to use T.H. March’s Customer Insurance Solutions

As well as looking after the business insurance needs of our clients in the trade, many of our jewellers also introduce their own customers to us. This has resulted in T.H. March paying over £7 million to jewellers in commission, replacement jewellery and jewellery repairs over the last four years. Two thousand retail jewellers earn commission on any introductions to us as well as beneﬁtting from replacement jewellery sales and repairs following a claim. This keeps customers coming back and spending in their shops, increasing both turnover and customer loyalty. In today’s tough markets, you know how important this is.

To ﬁnd out how you can beneﬁt, call any of our six branches nationwide, or John Watson on 01822 855555. You can also visit Your Customer’s Insurance at

www.thmarch.co.uk MIS/7MV1/18.05.11

| Industry News

Queen to unveil treasures for jubilee o mark her diamond jubilee, the Queen will be putting on display a selection of her private treasures; it is the first time that many of the pieces will have been viewed up close by the public. Queen Victoria’s Widow Crown, is expected to be one of the highlights of the treasures on show. The miniature crown, which measures just under four inches high, contains 1,187 diamonds and was designed to be worn over the veil that the Queen adopted following the death of her husband, Prince Albert. The Coronation necklace and earrings and the Girls of Great Britain Tiara, which was a wedding present to the future Queen Mary and later given to the present Queen, will also be among the items in the exhibition which will be held during August and September next year. Other pieces on display will be the Coronation necklace and earrings created for Queen Victoria and subsequently worn by four different Queens at their own coronations. Most of the items that can be viewed are owned by the Queen on behalf of the nation, while others – such as wedding gifts – are her own private property. The whole collection is, obviously, beyond priceless! For more details visit: www.royalcollection.org.uk

Lilly Hastedt opens shop ewellery designer and qualified gemmologist Lilly Hastedt has opened a boutique in London’s Chelsea to showcase her fine jewellery collections. The Old Church Street shop also incorporates her workshop, which can be glimpsed through a pair of French glass doors. Lily’s classic jewellery with a contemporary edge is renowned for its simplicity, use of coloured stones and clever detailing.

S N I P P E T S Diamond grading data launched HRD Antwerp, together with Verichannel, LLC, has created a direct feed of diamond grading data from the HRD lab’s computers to Verichannel’s online trading platform. Based on pre-authorization as set by the lab’s clients, diamond grading data is available within minutes of when the stones have been graded and results made available. The patent-pending technology provides a means for the owners of the stones to control precisely and automatically which diamonds appear on the platform. Cookson launches new website Birmingham-based Cookson Precious Metals relaunched its new website last month. At its heart is a re-designed on-line shop which offers over 11,000 gold, silver and platinum products, as well as tools and equipment. The site also features a forum area with access to tips, data sheets and metal price fixes which are updated twice a day. The CooksonGold new centre will keep visitors up to date with the latest trends, gold prices and high street developments. Fossil UK awarded good practice title Fashion and accessories company Fossil has successfully passed the compulsory three year Investors in People (IIP) review, having been achieved success with IIP in 2008. This accomplishment indicates that the company has been able to demonstrate continued commitment to the development of its employees and to achieving the goals that were determined three years ago. Tag Heuer auctioned y now, some lucky bidder will be the proud owner of a limited edition 1978 Tag Heuer Silverstone watch, one of four bought and engraved by Superbike and Formula Two European champion Mike Hailwood, who later enjoyed a motor racing career. He retired at 34 after a serious crash at the Nurburgring in 1974, coming out of it again in 1978 to race bikes again.

Workspace for rent at Goldsmiths’ Centre ue to open its doors in October this year, the Goldsmiths’ Centre’s new state-of-the art building in the heart of London’s Clerkenwell, is ready to offer workshop and studio space. Application packs are now available for anyone wishing to apply to rent one of the 15 custom-built workshops and nine studios. Alongside these, there will also be conference, seminar and exhibition space. “Together with a café and a regular programme of related specialist exhibitions and events, we hope the local community and general public will also benefit from and enjoy this re-energised building which will live and breathe creativity and craftsmanship” says Peter Taylor, director designate of the Goldsmiths’ Centre.

12 The Jeweller June 2011

| NAG News

NAG now recruiting for seventh EDF group s negative predictions of improvement and recovery in consumer spending continue to surface, the need for retailers to use every possible tool to succeed could not be more apparent. The NAG’s Executive Development Forum (EDF) is one such tool. The Forum continually strives to keep its members ahead of the game by assisting them to measure business performance, learn from others, keep up to date and share best practise. Fully facilitated meetings, research projects, superb support network, additional services and of course the annual Congress ensures that EDF members remain a step in front of less informed jewellers. If you have considered EDF membership but have not yet made the move, the Oxford Congress offers the opportunity to chat to EDFers who are in their sixth year of membership and get a clearer picture of how the Forum can take your business forward. To be part of the EDF’s seventh Group and join the 35 businesses already benefitting from this bespoke business initiative contact Amanda White at the NAG on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org for more information.

Wedding Fever... e had a surprise visitor to the NAG HQ at the end of April. The day before her big day, Kate Middleton arrived at Luke Street, rather cheekily (we thought) begging a last minute clean and polish of her diamond and sapphire engagement ring. However, to the clear relief of the soonto-be Duchess of Cambridge – who found time to stay and celebrate the NAG’s own wedding party before her own ‘do’ – we obliged. Staff decorated their offices with the Union flag, dressed to impress and popped a bottle of fizz to celebrate the forthcoming nuptials of Harshita Deolia, the NAG’s membership administrator. Harshita, who will be relocating to Leicester after her wedding, departed Luke Street as a bride-to-be and has since married Hinesh Pankhania on Sunday 29th May in Guildford. All of us at the NAG wish the newly wedded couple every happiness in their future together. Amy Oliver has subsequently Harshita Deolia with Amy Oliver taken over the role of membership administrator and anyone wishing to contact her directly can email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org or membership@jewellers-online.org We are sure she will be a familiar face at many industry events over the next few months. The NAG welcomes Amy to Luke Street. Post script: It has since emerged there was an imposter in the building – Kate Middleton turned out to be our very own information manager Faye Hadlow (the minx!)

14 The Jeweller June 2011

EDF Oxford Congress: Saïd Business School here are still places available to attend the EDF Oxford Congress on the 16th June 2011 at the Saïd Business School so, to avoid missing out, book your place now as it really is an event worth attending. The focus of discussion for this year’s Congress will be on how jewellers can use the internet and social media to market their businesses and to communicate with their customers. Added to this will be a talk on employment law in its ever changing forms. Please remember that all NAG members are invited to attend this exciting event which only takes place once a year. Don’t delay, book today. Contact Ritu Verma to book your place on tel: 020 7613 4445 or send an email to: ritu@jewellers-online.org

AGM 2011: Goldsmiths’ Hall nother important date in the NAG’s calendar is our AGM and Luncheon, which takes place on the 29th June at the prestigious Goldsmiths' Hall. The day also includes a tour of the London Assay Office and places are going fast so members are advised to book as soon as possible. The three course lunch will be taken in the magnificent Livery Hall where Mr David Thomas MVO will give his fascinating insight as a Crown Jeweller – a position he has now retired from. Guests will also have full access to the ‘Mindful of Silver’ exhibition and will have the opportunity to tour the London Assay Office all for a great value price of £55+VAT (£66.00) To book your place contact Ritu Verma using the telephone/email details above.

New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Allied Applications Malca-Amit (U.K) Ltd, Hatton Garden, London

Alumni Applications David Edmund Holgate, Birkenhead, Merseyside Jennifer Pierce, Blessington, Co. Wicklow

NAG News | O

Robert Croydon Former Chairman (1982-1984) and President (2007-2009) of the National Association of Goldsmiths Robert Croydon who has died aged 67, is remembered here as an honourable, loyal and courageous man who was an inspiration to all who knew him. he NAG’s first truly overseas Annual Conference was held in Amsterdam in 1963. Two years later it was held in Montreux, and it was there that Robert and I first met. We were friends since then and that friendship only deepened over the next 45 years. Robert went on to serve the NAG with distinction, firstly as chairman of the Education Committee, then chairman and finally president.

Robert was unfailingly cheerful, very positive in what he wished to achieve, and a very loyal friend. He married Martha in 1969 and she and my wife Mary became firm friends too – friendship that is not always given to the wife of two men who met through business. Mary and I have been blessed with three daughters as were Robert and Martha, so we had much in common. As we all know life is not always kind and its cruel side dealt a tragically heavy blow to Robert and Martha and their children when Annabelle, their eldest daughter, was killed in a car accident at the tender age of 17. Furthermore Harry Croydon was to die

suddenly too at no great age, and another blow was waiting to land – the demise of the family business. However, after some time in the wilderness so to speak, and through the good offices of another mutual friend to Robert and me, he was offered the opportunity of becoming the manager of the Norwich firm of Winsor Bishop. So, from the wilderness of their life, Robert, Martha, and their daughters moved to a delightful home in Norwich Cathedral Close. All seemed to be well once more. It proved to be a false dawn for in a last cruel twist of fate in their lives, both Robert and Martha were diagnosed with cancer. Mary and I, as it turned out, lived very close to a person recommended as one who could help reduce their illness and they came to consult him. So for some 18 months or so they would come to lunch with us, rest a while and then return home, and in those times our friendship became even closer. However, Martha bravely, yet

almost inevitably, succumbed to her illness and died six years ago. By now Robert had acquired Winsor Bishop, and he fought on, positively, courageously, optimistically until he lost his fight all too soon. As I write this tribute I find myself retracing many of the steps in life that we took alongside each other. Like many others I am sad and yes, angry that this splendid man should have been taken from us. His personality, his love of life and his family, his courage is an example to all of us at those times when life hits you hard and knocks you to your knees. There is only one way to go – onwards and upwards. Robert did this and his example will live on through his daughters and their children. Bless you Robert; I treasure our friendship with gratitude. Too soon you are with Martha and Annabelle – may you rest in peace. David Callaghan Former Chairman and President

henever I think of Robert I remember him as an honourable and interesting man who was the fount of all knowledge – covering not only our jewellery industry but also a wealth of other matters. We have been prematurely robbed of a most valuable member who will be sorely missed by us all. Robert was our chairman from 1982 to 1984 and I had the great pleasure and privilege of serving with him while he was our president from 2007 to 2009. It was during this time that I fully appreciated his many talents as well as his passion for cars. His memorial service in Norwich Cathedral on 20th April was a most fitting tribute and was very well attended by a huge range of people, who represented the diversity of his interests. Our thoughts and prayers are with his daughters Tania and Sophie as well as Jilly who so ably accompanied Robert on his many NAG duties. I am confident that all who remember Robert will do so with great affection and also recall what an inspirational man he was. He was admired by many people and all will regret his untimely death. Nicholas Major, William Major & Sons, current Chairman of the NAG

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

NAG member of the Month In this issue’s Member of the Month, Amy Oliver interviews Jeremy France of the eponymous Winchester jewellers. The business is currently celebrating its 20th anniversary, and in that time has become an award-winning independent retailer and working goldsmiths. Congratulations on your anniversary! I understand that you held a ‘20th Anniversary Diamond Day’ event at the end of April, was it a memorable day? It was indeed! We invited our top 1,500 clients to the event, but we didn’t want to make it exclusive. However, we only managed to advertise at the last moment in the local free paper and on an ‘A’ board outside the shop. In spite of this, we had the best day we’ve ever had in our 20 years of trading, beating even our best ever Christmas Event Show! Your business combines both retail trade and manufacturing. Tell us a little about the kind of jewellery you make and sell. Most of our manufacturing involves making the loose diamonds we sell into rings for engagements. The trick here is to give good value on the diamonds. We do this by buying the diamonds loose, then getting them certificated ready to be used in our jewellery.

We mainly produce platinum engagement rings designed according to the specific wishes and tastes of each client, thereby producing the perfect ring for them. We also manufacture and buy in rings for general sale. Sometimes we get lucky and sell rings out of the window, which is much quicker with less work, but ultimately the most rewarding thing for us is to produce a unique piece which is treasured by each client. You recently visited Sri Lanka to source gemstones for a new collection. Do you often travel to source your materials? We occasionally go out to source stones or goods to sell. A few years ago, my wife Sarah and I went to Hong Kong for seven years running to make solid contacts to purchase eternity rings and many other pieces of jewellery. Since then, manufacturers and wholesalers have been doing much the same thing and can in fact get better prices, so we tend to buy from them now.

The beauty of buying stones in Sri Lanka is the value; they are so inexpensive bought at source. This means that you can create some really interesting pieces with loads of stones, but not produce pieces with too high values to sell. In this way, our customers have the advantage of being able to purchase distinctive and beautiful pieces without breaking the bank. I also like buying from Germany; their high-topped cabochon-cut stones are to die for and make such interesting rings. Last year you opened a new store in Winchester – Bellis. How does this store differ from Jeremy France Jewellers Ltd? Bellis is our new high street fashion jewellery store, stocking the most popular modern jewellery brands such as Pandora. We wanted to expand our business to cash in on the current craze for these trendy new labels, and gain a wider customer base; we understand that not everyone is in the market for diamonds and platinum. Jeremy France Jewellers on the other hand is a vibrant professional jewellery design and manufacturing centre, where every day is different and the work is diverse and exciting. Can you share a story with our readers about a memorable customer? One client comes to mind! A woman came into the shop recently to participate in the ‘Great Gold Rush’, selling some gold that included the locket of her recently deceased sister. She had never opened it, and we explained that we would have to remove the contents to weigh it accurately to which she agreed. We took out the picture, which happened to be of a dashing chap, and handed it over to the lady explaining it may be important to her. It was… it was a picture of her own husband! A stony silence followed… Ooooops!

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| NAG News: Education & Training

NAG’s first successful graduate for JET 1 Online course through a distance learning programme and would definitely recommend it to any other students looking to take a JET 1 course.” To get a more experienced viewpoint on the benefits of the new system, The Jeweller spoke to tutor Brian Dunn, who was the first of the tutors to take a student through JET 1 online. “The site offers the opportunity for the tutor and student to build a better relationship,” he says. “Questions can be answered almost instantly, and grades can be given at the touch of a button.

This leaves a lot more time for tutors to do what they really should be doing – nurturing the student’s talents, and assisting them in all aspects of their research. Earlier this year, the NAG Education Department saw its new online learning environment go live. While, in the future, the NAG hopes to deliver a number of its courses on this online space, the system has recently trialled its first course JET 1. Over the past month the Education Department has seen the first student to come through the ranks of the first JET 1 Online experience and for this issue of The Jeweller, we caught up with our first graduate of the course. assie Tomkins enrolled as our first online student back in January, and has recently completed the course with grade ‘A’ assignment results. She was keen to tell us why she decided to take the course online, and how it impacted her study: “I’ve wanted to take the JET 1 program for a while, and quite honestly, would’ve done so whether it was online or not. However, it seemed much easier, and much more user friendly,”she explains. “A lot of students handle work through the internet these days and it seemed like the best option; you don’t have to send anything through the post, handle loads of books, and everything is in one place.

18 The Jeweller June 2011

“I’ve just started the JET 2 course, as that’s how much I enjoyed doing the JET 1 programme. Although the course is still great, I’ve found that not having everything right there for you in the online system is much more time consuming. For JET 2 I will have to post my work, and although the contact I’ve had with my tutor has been good, it’s very different to the online system, where Brian Dunn was only a button click away,” she adds. “Overall, it was a great experience. I could just save my assignments, and pop them online. Once they’d been marked the grade appears in the student area with my feedback. I found it a really simple way of getting

Having this speed of correspondence and the lack of large paper-filled parcels leaves a lot more time for tutors to do what they really should be doing – nurturing the student’s talents, and assisting them in all aspects of their research.” Education manager, Victoria Wingate, welcomes the feedback: “We’re really pleased to hear how well Cassie performed on the JET 1 course, and how easy she found the new system. It just goes to show how the NAG is responding to technology, and constantly providing up-to-date training and education for all its members. We hope we will see her experience repeated for many years to come. JET 1 online has been a tremendous success and we are looking forward to releasing the JET 2 programme online in August this year”.

For more information on our JET 1 & 2 Online course, visit the NAG website at; www.jewellers-online.org Alternatively, contact education & training department on tel: 020 7613 4445 (option 1).

NAG News: Education & Training |

NAG training for the rise of the East ince 2008's fiscal downturn that dealt a heavy blow to the western world’s entire free-market, the global monetary stage has braced itself for a new contender bidding for economic power and influence. The extraordinary growth in China’s economy and power is transforming huge parts of East Asia and, as commentators speculate, will spread to see the country become the world’s largest economy. As historian, Niall Ferguson has written: ‘the bloody twentieth century” witnessed ‘the descent of the West’ and ‘a reorientation of the world’ toward the East. With Chinese customers already making up around 30 per cent of the luxury goods market in Britain, and the expected number of Chinese consumers in British markets set to rise, it’s important to stay ahead of the game, and make the most of these sales opportunities. In light of this apparent future shift in power, that seems to have been reported in a harrowing fashion, the NAG

believe it’s important for the industry to be prepared to make the most of the positive benefits that will come from China’s prosperity. This means providing training so that business owners can take advantage of all opportunities to broaden their understanding of Chinese business and culture, to make those all-important sales. To this end, on the 28th of June, we’re offering our members the chance to join us for our one day course on Selling To Chinese Retail Customers. Facilitated by award winning firm, Virada Training this exciting new course was created specifically for sales people working in the luxury retail sector and explains everything you need to know about selling to Chinese customers. The day will explore Chinese cultural customs, give advice on how to alter your selling style, and teach you some key phrases in Mandarin, so you or your staff can take full advantage of the growth in British-Chinese trade.

Training will be given by Chinese trainer Haitong who has over ten years’ experience of Chinese language and culture training and has helped hundreds of business people, sales staff and diplomats to work successfully with Chinese customers. A former presenter for the BBC’s World Service, he specialises in unlocking the mysteries of Chinese culture and how this impacts on customer interactions. With such an experienced teacher the day promises to be informative, as well as an interactive exploration of Chinese culture. NAG CEO Michael Hoare welcomes the new course: “Even after 65 years of providing the best training in the industry we’re always on the lookout for programmes that are up to the minute and fulfil the needs of today’s jewellers, and this one is bang on target!” For more information on the details of the course and how to book a place, contact Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

April’s Bransom Award winner n this month’s issue the NAG celebrates another winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Award. From assignments received this month, the accolade goes to Jennifer Kealy of Ballymoss Retail, in Co. Kildare, Ireland. We’d like to congratulate Jennifer on her project, which was reported as ‘one of the very best ever submitted’, by the project moderator. We briefly caught up with Jennifer to ask how it felt to win the award. “It was fantastic to find out,” she says. “I was really surprised. It was great news to get. I’ve just started the JET 2 course, and winning is great encouragement for continuing my training. The funny thing is, I’d seen the articles [about the Bransom winners] in The Jeweller, but wasn’t aware exactly what the award was, so it’s a really pleasant surprise to have won!” In describing her education and training experience, she adds: “I found the JET 1 course really enjoyable. I was signed up by my employers and I’m really thankful they’ve put me through it. I’d like to thank them for giving me the opportunity to do the course and for their support during it. I’d also like to

say a big thank-you to my tutor Eddie Stanley, who was always there when I needed him, both to put my mind at rest, and to assist with research or difficult parts of the course. I couldn’t have done it on my own.” “Jennifer has produced an excellent piece of JET 1 Project work,” explains the project moderator. “The amount of research undertaken on diamonds covering their classification is reflected in the quality of the assignment. Each of the four Cs have been detailed very extensively and related closely to trade practice – there is a clear indication that this candidate has spent a great deal of time and energy in putting this answer together. The final sections of the project – the explanation to a customer of the diamond grading system – is one of the very best ever submitted. The options explained and illustrated for the customer to consider are of a very high standard. This shows Jennifer’s great commitment to her work and studies.” Held in conjunction with our friends at Bransom Retail Systems each month, the Education Department enters the best JET 1

final assignments into a competition for ‘best project’. Selected by the NAG moderators, the award gives students the chance to be rewarded with a trip to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of their certificate at our annual student award ceremony. Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. Once again, we’d like to congratulate Jennifer on her extremely hard work, and wish her continued success. For more information on the JET courses, go to www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom visit www.bransom.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 19

| NAG News: IRV Review In the pipeline…

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

IRV Forum – nomination received We are delighted to report that FIRV Shirley Mitchell has put her name forward for the vacancy which becomes available on the IRV Forum in September (at the NAG’s IRV Loughborough Conference) when MIRV Alan Hayes stands down after serving on the Forum since 2007. As Mitchell is the only candidate for the position there will be no need for a ballot.

Shirley Mitchell receiving her FIRV certificate from Jonathan Lambert at the 2010 Loughborough Conference. The Institute extends an invitation to all IRVs to put their name forward to attend an IRV Forum meeting as an invited observer to find out what goes on and what being an IRV Forum Elected Member involves. The Forum addresses many issues relating to valuations – taking into consideration the valuers, their role within the Institute (and the Institute’s role in their day-to-day business as a valuer), relationships with the insurance companies and, of course, the public. The subjects covered are many and varied, from creating guidelines for IRVs and promoting the Institute and its Members/ Fellows to the public, to looking into ways to boost a valuer’s business – as well as providing education for new valuers and ongoing training for the long-standing valuer.

20 The Jeweller June 2011

For dates of all forthcoming meetings contact Sandra Page at irv@jewellers-online.org or telephone 029 2081 3615. The Forum usually meets in late January/early February, mid March, early May, July/August and late October/early November.

David Wilkins Award 2011 – nominations received Following our call in the March issue of The Jeweller for nominations for this year’s David Wilkins Award, we have received 12 nominations for six individuals. The Board of Directors of the NAG may award the David Wilkins Trophy if an individual has demonstrated outstanding skill, dedication or service in respect of jewellery appraisal and valuation. This award is made on an annual basis. The nominees are: Michael Inkpen, whose name has been put forward by David Callaghan (NAG vice president), FIRVs Georgina Deer, Alan Jones and Heather McPherson, HonMIRV Alan Hodgkinson and MIRV Adrian Smith; Peter Hering who has been nominated by FIRVs Peter Buckie and Peter Jackson; Eric Emms – nominated by FIRV Terence Watts; David John Harrold suggested by FIRV Steven Jordan; Jonathan Lambert nominated by MIRV Geoff Whitefield and Geoff Whitefield himself, who has been suggested by FIRV Shirley Mitchell. The winner will be announced at the 2011 NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuer Loughborough Conference, which takes place from Saturday 24 to Monday 26 September. A brochure and booking form for the Conference will be available at the end of June. If you would like a copy – it is automatically sent to all IRVs and delegates who attended the 2009 and 2010 Conferences – please contact Sandra Page at irv@jewellers-online.org or telephone 029 2081 3615.)

There are a number of projects planned or in production and we hope to report on further in future issues of The Jeweller: Certificate of Appraisal Theory: early in 2010 the NAG Board of Directors accepted the request of the Institute to withdraw the JET Valuation Course as we felt that the modules required updating and certain valuation elements adding. A working party is in the process of replacing the course with a valuation training programme which will offer valuers the opportunity to gain the Institute’s Certificate of Appraisal Theory. This CAT will form part of the prerequisites required of a valuer wishing to become an IRV (Member). It is planned that details of CAT will be announced at the Loughborough Conference in September. NAG Valuation Days: the Institute is planning to introduce valuation days for NAG members using the services of IRV. We will provide NAG members with the contact details of an IRV who is available to run valuation days on their behalf. These days can be very productive for the retailer, not only generating additional income but attracting new customers to their shop. The IRV Diamond Price Guide: many IRVs miss this guide which used to be produced for the Institute by Backes & Strauss. Fortunately, the Institute has persuaded former B&S employee James Riley, to produce a replacement. By the time you read this we hope the first edition of the guide will have been sent to IRVs. It is intended to issue the guide quarterly to all IRVs but those who receive mail shots by email will be able to receive the price guide on a monthly basis. The Institute is grateful to Krieger Diamonds who have allowed us to circulate their diamond price list on a regular basis; it is our intention to continue to do so.

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BJA News |

Putting trust in people power s I write this the jury is still out on whether or not 700 years of hallmarking is to be swept unceremoniously away – an unforeseen casualty of the Government’s Red Tape Challenge. Personally I think it is unlikely to happen, but if it is does it certainly won’t be for lack of effort by the BJA and the many other industry bodies, organisations and individuals who stepped forward to man the barricades in its defence. When I took over the role of chairman of this Association I was clear in my desire to bring together more closely all aspects of our diverse industry and to provide a cohesive union that could speak with one, authoritative voice on key issues. It is the greatest of pities that the first rallying call has been about something so negative, but gratifying nevertheless to see how quickly and competently we and other key players

– the National Association of Goldsmiths, the Assay Offices, the British Jewellery Giftware and Finishing Federation and many other key individuals from jewellery and silverware related businesses countrywide – responded to the challenge. The PR machine began to whirr from the very first announcement, ensuring that our members were aware of what had been proposed and that they knew how and where to have their say. The Cabinet Office website is now closed to comment, but not before nearly 6,000 people had registered their thoughts – almost every single one of them calling for hallmarking to be retained. Thanks to the combined efforts of your industry bodies, hallmarking also hit the headlines. Debate raged in the Letters page of The Times, on Radio 4’s Today programme, on TV and the World Wide Web.

Harry Levy to head London Bourse arry Levy has been appointed president of the London Diamond Bourse after the death of his predecessor, Freddy Hager, who had held the position since 1991. Levy, who was vice chairman of the Bourse, is no stranger to committees. He is a past chairman of the BJA and has been its representative at CIBJO for some 40 years where he is currently vice chairman of the Diamond Commission. He is also chairman of a new EU Committee tasked with determining the nomenclature for natural and synthetic diamonds – something he feels is essential in order for the consumer to differentiate between the two types. Levy, who describes himself as having an holistic view of the industry, says he is keen to work more closely with other UK and worldwide trade bodies and as a gesture of goodwill has given free membership of the Bourse to, among others, the CEOs of both the British Jewellers’ Association and the National Association of Goldsmiths. He is a great moderniser and has, he says, plans to introduce a number of changes within the Bourse’s management structure: not least delegating responsibility for various

aspects of its running to his 10 strong committee and updating its computer and other facilities which include the newly inaugurated ‘Freddy Hager’ boardroom. He is also keen to attract new and younger members to join the Bourse to strengthen the current membership of 350. “It is essential to attract further established businesses to the Bourse and I am keen to encourage eligible retailers, especially those from out of town, to consider membership. Not only does the Bourse provide its members with extremely secure office space and meeting facilities in central London for a reasonable fee, it also gives status to their businesses and the chance to source diamonds from reliable traders. It was with the greatest sadness that I came to this post following the death of my close friend Freddy, but I am looking forward to working closely with a very able committee to bring the Bourse into the 21st Century,” says Levy.

We also bent the ear of Liz Lynne our MEP and made sure that local UK politicians knew the score. Will it have worked? I certainly hope so, but Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA with the power of so many people behind us we certainly shan’t go down quietly and there is plenty of persuading, lobbying and educating still to be done. Nothing is over until its over and the BJA is up for a long, hard fight. Can we count on your support?

Michael Hughes, Chairman

Lead in jewellery here are currently no pan-European rules relating to the amount of lead that is allowed to be present in fine and fashion jewellery – although Denmark, the USA and Canada all have national legislation in this regard. In the absence of such standards in the UK, some businesses already carry out ‘due diligence’ on their products using the Toy Safety Standards for lead, especially if producing jewellery intended for children. However there are now plans to introduce specific levels for lead migration across all types of jewellery under the new REACH Regulation and the BJA is warning its members that they should be aware of these developments. “We are watching closely, through our representative on the BSI Committee, what is being proposed in this regard and are working on our members’ behalf to ensure that any legislation is sensible and workable. The consultation process closed on 28th May and we will issue further news as soon as it becomes available,” says the BJA’s head of marketing, Lindsey Straughton. Further information on the proposed lead standards can be found on the BJA website www.org.uk/regulations

The Voice of the Industry 23

| BJA News

‘Something special’ wins BJA prize esigner maker See Sun Yung has created a range of silver jewellery that has brought her fulsome praise and well-deserved recognition. And this April her achievements were topped off when she was presented with the BJA Award at the British Craft Trade Fair in Harrogate “For a design to grab your attention it must be something special,” says the well-established designer maker, Andrew Geoghegan who was one of the judges for the annual award. Together with Lindsey Straughton, head of marketing for the BJA, he picked the product considered to be the most interesting, well-made and commercially viable within the show.

Ladies Treasure Ring

“As I approached See Sun Yung’s stand I can quite honestly say that my body tingled… literally!” enthuses Geoghegan. “It was the Planished range that drew me in, more specifically the arresting contrast achieved within the work. A polished, simple yet effective gold form combined perfectly with an intricately knitted silver wire. The solidity against the skeletal wire work appeared to be Yung’s strength and on closer inspection the quality of finish and manufacture was equally strong. Shy, but noticeably passionate about her craft, Yung talked about how each piece took many hours of work, but it seems that this has most definitely paid off,” he adds.

24 The Jeweller June 2011

It has been a long and sometimes hard road to this point for Yung who has a BA Hons degree in Silversmithing and Jewellery from Loughborough University. “I simply couldn’t find the job I wanted in the jewellery industry when I finished university in 2004 and for a while I didn’t have much direction,” she says. After a spell applying hallmarks by hand at Birmingham Assay Office and various temporary jobs within the trade, Yung was accepted onto ‘Design Space’, a Birmingham City Council funded scheme which provides would-be designer makers not only with subsidised workshop space but more importantly with industry mentoring. It was a turning point. From 2008-2009 she was provided with help and advice from two of Birmingham’s successful designer makers – Katherine Campbell-Legg and Kerry O’Connor – who between them helped Yung to bring together her highly unusual and extremely saleable collection. “They helped me to understand how the market works and taught me how to approach galleries and what shows would be best for me to attend,” she says. Having found her direction she left Birmingham for Reading, where she now lives, to establish her own business selling her jewellery directly to the public as well as to galleries and progressive jewellery retailers. As someone who taught herself to knit at the age of 12, Yung has always been interested in the process of seamlessly

Daisy Pendant

See Sun Yung receives her BJA prize at BCTF. She is pictured wearing a prototype for her latest design ‘The Petal Lattice Cuff’.

weaving materials. While at university she developed a technique which she says is best described as ‘French knitting’ with metal to create a ‘fabric’ not unlike chain mail. Over many years she has honed and developed this skill and now works in silver, bronze and stainless steel and gold wire to create unique designs which are as tactile and exquisitely made as they are unusual. “Ultimately I strive for good design that is often minimalistic in nature as well as excellent craftsmanship. I want my jewellery to have some kind of significance, to mean something, whether something simple like setting a tone or exploring form or in the case of the ‘Planinshed’ range, a collection derived entirely from one aspect of a technique,” she says. Planished has proved to be very popular and has been snapped up by a number of galleries around the UK including the prestigious Brighton outlets Brass Monkeys and Jewel Thief. The range currently comprises 40 pieces including bangles, rings, pendants, earrings and a brooch at retail prices ranging from £36 to £677 for the most expensive bangle which incorporates 22ct gold. Further designs will be added shortly. See Sun Yung can be contacted on tel: 0781 609 7132 or through her website: www.seesunyung.co.uk

| BJA Feature

Simon says! BJA CEO Simon Rainer discusses the issues involved in working in a high worth, high security industry. ithin the first week of taking up my new position with the British Jewellers’ Association I received a call from a stone dealer describing how his car had been attacked by two armed masked men. Since then, I have met and spoken to many individuals who have been subjected to violent attacks while in pursuit of conducting their jewellery businesses – some have been lucky to escape uninjured, several have not. In all cases, and whether personally injured or not, the trauma of having a shot gun held to their head, having CS gas sprayed in their face or seeing their retail premises torn apart by club-wielding robbers, is with them still. The most concerning aspect to these stories is that improved security measures were only implemented after the event. Of equal concern, are the stories of retailers and manufacturers receiving a warning from the local police that they have received intelligence that their premises will shortly be attacked. Just think about that for a minute – what would be your reaction? Have you the security measures and staff training in place to effectively react in such an eventuality? For the last few months, I have followed up on these stories and have been fortunate to become involved in a number of initiatives which I hope will be of benefit to the BJA membership and the industry as whole. One of the key issues I have always faced is the lack of co-ordination between the UK’s police forces. In the first example of the attack on the stone dealer, it can be reasonably proved that he was watched in the Jewellery Quarter but the crime took place in North London. There is virtually no sharing of information between the police forces

26 The Jeweller June 2011

and crimes which start in one place and finish in another and can often remain undetected and unconnected. However, the innovative SaferGems initiative created by the NAG and T.H.March now provides just such a central pooling of information. For those unaware of this scheme, all users can upload photographic or text information relating to suspicion or actual crime having taken place. Even more beneficial is the fact that police forces are also using this scheme so we are now at last seeing a co-ordination of effort. SaferGems has over 4,000 users and I am glad to confirm that the BJA will shortly be introducing this scheme to its membership. At the same time of the SaferGems launch to the membership, we will also issue a security best practice guide Jewellers’ Personal Safety and Security Guide for Robbery produced in conjunction with the London Metropolitan Flying Squad. This guide is an essential document to clearly identify the most appropriate security standards to protect your premises from robbery.

If any of this causes you to rethink your security measures then all the better!

In discussions with West Midlands Police, we will now be using their officers to take this guide around the Jewellery Quarter so that retailers and manufacturers will see at first hand the relevance of the document to their businesses. We are also in discussions with other police forces to offer such a service (see p48 for an abridged version of this document). Additionally, we will be launching a new range of security linked services. For an insight into crime against jewellers, let me recount some words of wisdom from a senior retired officer. If any of this causes you to rethink your security measures then all the better! Police ‘prefer’ to attend a morning robbery, on the basis that invariably the crime will be committed by professionals who want to get in quickly and get out quickly. More than likely the premises would have been visited or watched by the perpetrators several times before the crime is committed. They will be looking at the layout of the shop, the positioning of the CCTV cameras and most importantly how the staff interacts with them. Staff who are inattentive and work in a sloppy, haphazard way are giving a signal to the criminals that this is more than likely how the security measures are conducted as well. Afternoon robberies are more likely to be random and drug related where there is a greater threat of unpredictable behavior. Staff who are well trained in the event of a crime being committed are less likely to be injured and more likely to provide the police with the information and evidence they require to bring the criminals to justice. In a recent BJA membership survey, only one per cent of respondents considered security to be an industry issue. With the new BJA security initiative, we hope that awareness of the threats will be increased leading to safer working environments for us all.

the

Jeweller picks... Innovative materials, strong colours, bold features and just a judicious sprinkling of bling are among the salient elements of the fashionable and sport-inspired watches on offer for 2011.

TIMEX

The Swiss-made Black Crown Diamond watch range from Pandora offers a luxurylook timepiece at an affordable price and fits in with the brand’s ethos of offering design that allows for individual expression. Customers can create their own looks through the interchangeable straps and bezels. This double-warp strap design is called Petit Square. www.pandora.net

For those seeking a combination of vintage cool with sporty style, Timex Originals introduces Camper watches – a unisex range incorporating webbing straps in either plain or striped styles. Colours range from the girlie to the classically masculine (in a retro way of course). Comfortable to wear, the straps can be adjusted to fit any size wrist. www.txwatches.com

TECHNOMARINE

PANDORA

VERSACE

Cruise Original Lipstick is uncompromisingly feminine, available as it is in three vibrant ‘cosmetic’ colours: violet, coral and fuchsia. However, this chronograph watch with a rotating bezel and silicon strap retains enough of the details to recall the brand’s aquatic origins. www.technomarine.com

V Race is one of the key new styles in the Versace watch collection. With a distinctive and sporty look, it has a 42mm case (with sapphire crystal glass) which features interchangeable lunettes in a choice of three options. The Swiss movement is a three-handed quartz model and a chronograph version with a retrograde seconds function is also available. www.versace.com

LINKS OF LONDON

Modern and Italian, chunky yet sleek, Salt and Pepper is a collection of monochrome watches for both him and her that is sophisticated in its simplicity. An understated back-to-basics design features a crown that been has flipped positions from 3 to 9 o’clock and in its place the iconic D&G logo has been engraved on the breadth of an element screwed to the case. Tel: 01628 770988

D&G TIME

Links’ first ever sports watch, Chicane, takes its cue from the aesthetics of vintage motor racing and the interior of sports cars. Big overlapping subsidiary dials echo the style of modern dashboards and watches feature a chronograph function. Customers can choose from a stainless steel bracelet or black leather straps that incorporate classic racing green and vibrant red detailing. www.linksoflondon.com

POLICE

A strong look with plenty of personality sums up the ethos of the Police watch collection and this model called Patrol, with its retro references fits the brief. With a multifunctional movement and square dial it features a black IP bracelet and is 5ATM water resistant. www.icw-watches.co.uk

ICE-WATCH

OOZOO

Launched in the UK just 18 months ago the success of Ice-Watch has shown that colour is key to the fashion watch market. For 2011 there are new seasonal colours in silicon and plastic, some studded with Swarovski crystal elements. The Ice-Jelly now joins Ice-Love with its heart motif; each face of Ice-World is emblazoned with a national flag; Tycoon features a patent leather strap, and the line includes the ever-popular Chronographs. www.peershardy.co.uk

While bright colours and fun fuctionality are certainly key features of the keenly-priced Dutch watch brand oozoo, the 450 strong collection also includes a range of somewhat more ‘grown-up’ styles. The Steel line incorporates different colour metal cases, including ‘gold’, ‘rose gold’, ‘silver’ and black, with case sizes that range from the relatively moderate (45mm) suitable for slimmer wrists to the whopping (52mm). All feature the signature clasp which is inspired by classic divers’ watches of the 1950s. www.oozoowatches.co.uk

FESTINA

The world of cycling once again provides the inspiration for Festina’s collection with the introduction of the new Chrono Bike range. The 16 new gents chronograph models combine sporty design with advanced technology – eight models fitted with solid stainless steel bracelets, eight with a black rubber strap. The large round robust case includes many features with cycling connotations, such as chain links which have been included in the design of the top ring and the sub dials have the form of the chainwheel. www.uniquejewlry.co.uk

KENNETH COLE

SWAROVSKI

US designer Kenneth Cole New York has launched its new touch screen watch series, the first of its kind in the fashion-forward watch category. This innovative feature bridges fashion and technology. The collection mixes traditional and fashion-tech features in a modern sleek design and maintains the brand’s signature, classic look with a stainless steel round case paired with a black, white, or orange silicon strap. The watch functionality includes 32-City world time and an alarm, stopwatch and light-up screen. www.peershardy.co.uk

The Octea Sport – shown here in Ultra Blue, but also available in a limited edition khaki version – revisits the unidirectional rotating bezel, faceted in a sunray pattern and cut from a single block. The rubber strap is set with six satin crystals. www.swarovski.com/watches

TOY WATCH

The new Velvety collection combines innovation and technology to produce a matte finish, with a highly unusual, soft and luxurious texture for the oversized links and dial. A range of bold colours are available, as well as total black or platinum grey with orange indices for an urban appeal. www.toy-watch.it

GUESS

Monochrome is a key trend in the new Guess Watches’ Sparkle collection and this black style – called Pixie Dust – features black crystals around the bezel, together with a shimmering dial and black IP stainless steel bracelet. www.guesswatches.com

The Voice of the Industry 31

| Watch Feature

Hermes

Victorinox

32 The Jeweller June 2011

While fashion brands and design-led features remain important, the watch market is seeing the increasing strength of more classic and luxury timepieces, as Belinda Morris discovers.

t the volume end of the watch market fashion brands are a dominant force, their appeal easy to fathom when you consider a style and label-hungry demographic, fed on a diet of celebrity must-haves. However, the long-established Swiss names are still a might to be reckoned with. “They have always dominated the premium and luxury market and ever more so now,” says Mark Sutcliffe of Maurice Lacroix UK. He’s referring of course to the tough times that we are – if one were to take the

TIMELINES

military watches, agrees with this overview. “We believe that luxury timepieces are becoming increasingly important in the UK,” he says. “Fashion brands are still quite important of course, but the mechanics and the beauty of a luxury timepiece are definitely attracting customers’ attention.” In fact it’s probably true to say that taken as a whole, consumer attention is being drawn to the two extremes of the sector – the watch market is becoming polarised. “I think the middle ground continues to shrink more and more and that retailers either make the decision to focus very much on the

upbeat, optimistic view – slowly climbing out of. The last two years, which have been challenging for most, have seen some shifts in spending patterns for our industry. “The high end of the market clearly has not been affected in the same way as everybody else. Fashion brands still appear to be strong but demand is growing for more traditional products,” says Rolf Studer, region manager of Oris. James Gurney, editor of specialist consumer watch magazine QP agrees: “Tradition does seem to be the buzz-word of the moment and top brands have dropped the emphasis on mega-complications in favour of ultra-slim watches. High value pieces are now quite likely to owe their value to applied crafts like enamelling rather than watchmaking per se.” “More and more people have become aware of the value of a ‘proper’ watch; a Swiss watch with a mechanical movement. A watch is generally the only piece of mens jewellery, so they look for real value – more so than they did a few years ago,” adds Studer. “All brands have had to adapt to an increasingly demanding customer,” agrees Kirsten Crisford of Seiko, “but have taken the time to adjust their product offering, they are now seeing the results of their efforts.” Carlos Rosillo, the co-founder and CEO of Bell & Ross – a brand inspired by historical

fashion brands, or push ever more upmarket,” explains Guy Allen, brand manager of Pequignet. “To make the differentiation, a lot of [retail] customers have opened fashion watch and silver shops so as not to dilute their higher end proposition.” Whether based on gut feeling or analysis, the shift is echoed in the statement by GfK Retail and Technology, which, back in March Raymond Weil

Meistersinger

It may be a matter of semantics and opinion, but arguably the opposite of ‘fashion’ is ‘classic’ and now, as Crisford points out “sobriety, value and longevity” characterise the timepiece market. “Many jewellers want

Going for the classics

reported that total sales of watches for the UK, France, Germany, Italy and the Netherlands in 2010 reached 28.8 million units worth £3.7 billion and that watches selling for over €1,000 represented 40 per cent of that market – highlighting the significance of the high-end Swiss brands. And reporting on the first quarter of this year GfK noted that the ‘strong rise’ in the average selling price of watches in the UK (up five per cent to £95) was generated by the highend sector of the market, adding that sales of watches over £2,500 were up by 11.1 per cent in value terms and that the average price of a watch over that amount is now £5,336 compared to £4,654 a year ago. As Crisford at Seiko says, watch lovers will always be watch lovers. “Luxury watches have always held a strong place within the market, and through the recent economic challenges this area has helped hold the market up. There will always be a place in the market for fashion brands, but their dominance in the marketplace is diminishing,” she adds.

to complement their fine jewellery with high quality Swiss brands and the consumer is also happy to purchase these but wants longevity from their watch,” says Sutcliffe, “so quality – as well as style – is important.” Karen Snow, director of Neal Gray in Richmond, agrees that buying patterns have changed. “People are generally taking more time to consider a watch purchase and are looking for safer buys, so will choose a classic watch by a largely recognised brand, over a big bold watch from a less-known name,” she says. “They are spending their money wisely and are opting for investment on long-term pieces.” Giles English, co-founder and owner of acclaimed British brand Bremont (a relative newcomer to the scene), also feels that consumers are taking a pragmatic approach.

A watch is generally the only piece of mens jewellery, so they look for real value – more so than they did a few years ago.

Maurice Lacroix

Nomos

“There is no doubt that our classic style of watch has been the right style in this environment,” he says. “My view is that anyone spending large amounts of money wants to make sure that it is still going to look good in five, 10, 30 years time.” “Longevity is important in terms of quality and styling,” adds Derek Salter, UK brand director of Mondaine. “Our customer is willing to spend his or her hard-earned money, but they want reassurance that what they are buying is good quality and can be trusted. Brands with a strong heritage and recognisable designs have continued to attract loyal customers as there is perceived to be less risk involved.” Often going hand-in-hand with ‘heritage’ and ’traditional’ is a mechanical movement. “People are generally becoming more aware of the mechanical timepieces,” says Anika Friedrich of Fortis, which can boast almost a century of experience in the development of and continuous production of such wristwatches. At Oris a swing to Swiss mechanical watches has been noted for a few years. “The perception of quality is much higher and lifespan longer,” says Studer. In addition, as Craig Leach, UK brand director of Raymond Weil puts it, with multiownership of watches, “the smart, classical watch is often treated as ’the best watch’.” “The trend is definitely towards the classic or traditional brands,” says Victoria Campbell, managing director of Rotary. “From our

The Voice of the Industry 33

Watch Feature | perspective consumers are looking to make an investment rather than purchase an accessory. The demand is now for more timeless watches that will withstand ephemeral, seasonal trends. They want reassurance that they are investing in a brand that will last.” Which is obviously where the big names score. It might be a case of “well, they would say that, wouldn’t they?” but in the view of the established brands – Swiss or otherwise – heritage counts for a lot with customers. It equals trust; it means a hundred odd years of watchmaking knowhow. “The known brands will, I feel, fare better than those on the edge, mainly because if there is any hesitation with the consumer, then they will revert to the names that they know

Bulova

I think the middle ground continues to shrink more and more and that retailers either make the decision to focus very much on the fashion brands, or push ever more upmarket.

Revue Thommen

Bremont

Citizen

and also those that they construe as a good investment,” says James Grant of Martin & Co in Cheltenham. By the same score, the cachet that accompanies the globally recognised, elite names – Patek Philippe, Longines, Cartier et al – does the jeweller no harm either. “Retailers are investing in brands that are established players in the market, brands with a tradition and an international name that will enhance their position and imaging,” says Luc Perramond, CEO of Hermes Watches. But the pinnacle of the sector is not necessarily a straightforward or simple one to attain, as Giles English points out. “The problem for retailers wanting to get into the luxury market is that they need a good collection of brands to attract new brands – so it can be a bit of a chicken and egg situation. And there are many high end watch brands who have over-distributed and are trying to pull this back or are going down the own boutique model,” he says. Paul Harry of the Peers Hardy group adds that

WATCH DATA • In the first three months of 2011 the market was down in volume by 0.4% (totally 2m units) • The total market was worth £193m during this period • The average selling price, £95 – a 5% increase on the previous year and the market was worth £193m in this period • Sales of watches over £2,500 are up by 11.1% in value terms, despite a volume decrease of 3% • Watches selling for over €1,000 produced a market share of over 40% of the total market sales in Europe in 2010 • Sales of watches under £100 represented 24% of sales in 2010, indicating a polarised market

The Voice of the Industry 35

| Watch Feature

The problem for retailers wanting to get into the luxury market is that they need a good collection of brands to attract new brands – so it can be a bit of a chicken and egg situation…

Oris

“the Swiss guys refining their distribution leaves opportunities for the fashion brands to gain exposure and with the improvement in manufacture techniques, many quality fashion brands last just as long as the traditional ones.”

Bell & Ross Rotary

Vive la difference Which leads to a sort of counter-argument. Assuming that quality of manufacture and good design are a given and gimmick for its own sake is left to funky fashion brands, there is also room out there for lesser-known or

this perspective. “What is clear is that growing numbers of retailers, previously so conservative as not to want to look at new brands, are now happy to consider them,” he says. Keith Peryer, managing director of John Bull & Co in Bedford is one such customer. “We want to offer our customers something a little different, but still maintaining high quality and Swiss-made,” he explains. “MeisterSinger watches are different because they only have one hand! It’s a great talking piece – they are the 21st century mechanical sundial, but a lot more accurate!” And despite well-known names being popular, strong design, as James Grant points out, is important, “so brands like Hermes, Graham and Bremont are gaining momentum.”

Is big still best?

Edox

36 The Jeweller June 2011

new names. “We should all be looking for that certain something which sets our product offer aside from the rest of the high street – something which will enthuse and motivate the consumer to purchase,” says Adrian McGillivray of Edox. “Too often we see the same watch brands repeated – sometimes in two or three stores in a town – there is insufficient mix in the mid-market sector. Consumers and jewellery retailers alike are looking for something new and different which will enhance their watch collection.” Paul Kustow of Alexander Collections, the UK sales agency behind the top-end MeisterSinger and Nomos timepieces, shares

Which begs the question – are watches going to keep growing? The general consensus is that the really oversized faces have peaked. In the case of Bell & Ross, the priority was given to the clarity of the dial for a historicallyFortis

Smart inside and out. Beneath the sophisticated exterior, Timex proprietary Intelligent Quartz™ technology drives independent motors and digital sensors to give you the world’s smartest analogue watch. Available in the UK from September. For more information contact Timex Group UK on +44 (0) 208 326 6900 or email iq@timex.com

The Voice of the Industry 37

| Watch Feature referenced professional watch that could be worn everyday. Size is important and not a fashion statement – even though it obviously became fashionable. Along with other names, like Pannerai, it sparked a trend for large and then over-sized faces and, as many have pointed out, once a wearer has become accustomed to these dimensions, it’s hard to go back. “Very large is out of fashion, but larger watches will be here to stay – 43mm is the perfect size,” is the view of Giles English. Fuelled by the demand from the Far East, Raymond Weil is seeing a move back to case sizes of 39-40mm for men (although chronographs remain oversized) and Nautica’s dive Seiko Michele

Corum

Slimline clearly reflects the position, attainment and image of the wearer

style pieces that can be up to 50mm are now being scaled down to as low as 38mm in some instances. “The best response we’re having currently is definitely for the smaller case sizes and, while fashion pieces are continuing to do well, classical styles are starting to come back,” confirms UK marketing manager Dan Calvert. “The watch

world is moving back to slimmer, smaller and simpler, which is where Nomos Glashutte has been all the time and MeisterSinger’s new Neo watch, reminiscent of watches from the 1950s, is just where the industry is moving to,” adds Kustow. Which goes back to the notion of ‘classic’, which might mean different things to different people, but in the case of Edox definitely means slimline, as in its Ultra Slim Classic round case watches which are, says McGillivray, back in demand “as they once again more clearly reflect the position, attainment and image of the wearer.” Such understatement might be described as the most eloquent expression of stealth wealth…

What the girls want… And that, in some cases, is what female customers are looking for. While large ‘boyfriend’ style watches are maintaining their grip on the market (fashion as well as more traditional, top end) the fascination for all things vintage is having an effect. “We are seeing strong interest in classic cocktail

WATCH TRENDS • • • • • • • • • •

38 The Jeweller June 2011

Tissot

Mixing of materials such as steel, titanium, 18ct gold, rubber and ceramic Oversized watch faces continue, especially for chronographs and fashion models However, a move towards slightly smaller and slimmer Smaller and more elegant styles for ladies’ watches, alongside the continuing trend for large, masculine watches Colour – subtle dusky shades, brown dials, black on black, white for ladies’ and brights either as highlights or all over for fashion statements Anti-bling – titanium, grey, blue and matte finishes PVD finishes Vintage and heritage styling – ’40s-’70s – but in a low key way for the top end Coloured sapphire Exotic material for straps

Watch Feature |

Nautica Watches –proud to be Ofﬁcial Partner of the largest sailing event of its kind in the world.

Available from Ernest Jones and leading independent jewellers. For more information on the full collection of Nautica Watches contact 0208 326 6900.

watches and therefore petite and delicate case and bracelet designs coming to the fore,” says Campbell at Rotary. To reach a wider audience, the diamond set pieces by Bulova now include a few oversized models, but by and large the company has found that the traditional sizes have remained the most popular. Other brands, such as Hermes, have always leant towards a more feminine look with smaller case sizes for their ladies’ watches. The distinctive element is usually in the strap (the double wrap Cape Cod for instance) Pequignet and here colour is very important, along with exotic materials, according to Perramond. This year, for the first time, a strap in silk has been added to the collection. While we women may not feel the need to continually add to a ‘wardrobe’ of watches as some men do, it’s obviously fair enough that we have a couple – a large model for day and something more discreet or delicate for evening. However, according to Crisford at Seiko we’re also “looking past the diamonds and pearls and into the technology of the watches – and that is where the market is heading,” she says. “Brands need to be offering beautiful women’s watches with the best of their technology and highest quality. At Seiko we have a growing ladies’ collection that uses our Kinetic and Solar technologies – they’re accurate and environmentally friendly.” The future of the UK watch market contains many uncertainties, not least, according to James Grant of Martin & Co, while musing on the matter, the manner in which watches are sold and the ever-thorny issue of pricing. His parting words, which will be music to the ears of Ian Shaffer, director of sales of pre-owned watch business BQW is that “the second hand watch market will probably get stronger.” In the last year the company has seen its business treble. “The high price of brand new luxury watches, plus the increasing value of gold has pushed trade into the pre-owned market,” says Shaffer. “It’s another income stream.” And the most popular brands? As might be predicted, Rolex, Breitling, Cartier, Bulgari, IWC Nautica and Patek Philippe…

The Voice of the Industry 39

| Opinion: John Henn

Mont Blanc. Finally! At precisely 10.01am European time on 21st of May 2011 Robert Osborne and I stood on top of Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest mountain at 4,810m (15,782 feet). We had realised an ambition started some five years earlier. know this is a jewellery magazine but so many of you were involved in sponsoring me that I hope you don’t mind my devoting this page to the event and the lessons we learnt from it. The three-day climb covering some 3,010 vertical meters to the summit started on a glorious Thursday morning. We drove to the end of the road and started walking through the green meadows above St Gervais. Marmots played in the sunshine as we continued along the disused cog railway track. It had originally been built to reach the top of the mountain as part of a local Mayoral ego trip but stopped on the break out of the First World War. The train does still run between June and August; today it was nowhere to be seen. I should mention at this stage that after last year’s failure Robert had put in extensive research into every energy-enhancing substance used in the world of endurance sports. Firm favorites were the cyclists’ gels and powders. We had driven over in Robert’s car with five kilos of assorted performance, non-freezable enhancers. We found the snow line around 2,400m and after a gel or two set about the slow ascent on skis to the first hut, at 3,187m. By law the huts/refuges give access to ‘winter rooms’ that are unattended and

40 The Jeweller June 2011

provide the very basic need of shelter. They are, thanks to their remoteness not the cleanest of places, with months of abandoned food and fuel containers; no water apart from what you make yourself; no heating of course and the bedding is damp and dirty. The one plus is that it is cold enough not to support any bugs! Day two was a shorter height gain than day one – around 600m, it just happened to be, seemingly, mostly vertical. Our second hut was perched on top of the ridge we would be climbing, with the wall or rock becoming evermore perpendicular, so we were

prospect of a perfect day. The Vallot hut and emergency refuge was passed at 4,362m and the skis came off and the crampons went back on. The air was beginning to disappear around us. The headwall or ‘bloody steep bit’ before we would see the summit again was mind over matter – your empty diaphragm is aching with the effort of supplying air to muscles that are on the edge of fatigue; regiments of red blood cells are called into action to keep those legs moving. Stop now and the engine just won’t restart. Cresting the headwall exposed the last majestic sigh – ‘a stairway to heaven’. An arête or crest leads up at 45 degrees to the sky, with Italy on one side and France on the other, just two boots wide and so no room for error. We were in the territory of ‘the flying guide belay’: in the event that one of us made a fatigue-induced error and tripped, the guide behind us would jump the other way, the rope would act like a cheese wire on the arête and both would be saved and the situation could be resolved calmly. Suddenly without warning the waiting was over, we arrived on the summit and emotion took me by the throat. There was nowhere left to go – all around us was down. The gracious lady had allowed us to stand upon her in the finest of weather, not a breath of wind, or air for that matter, anywhere. We remained on the summit for around 25 minutes before setting about the 3,000m ski down the glacier with all its hazards, and six hours later with all the gels used up we walked onto solid ground (you can read the full story at www.justgiving.com/JohnHennMont-Blanc).

Regiments of red blood cells are called into action to keep those legs moving. Stop now and the engine won’t restart… delighted to find a fixed rope in place for the last 100 meters. Night two was a little more comfortable as we were able to air the blankets in the afternoon sun before a cold fog came up the valley and engulfed us. Day three. We left our shelter just after 3am for the preferred surrounding of the pure majesty about us. Skinning up the Dome du Gouter, 4,300m, the sky began to lighten and by 5.30 the dawn broke gilding the few remaining peaks above us, before finally warming our frozen souls with the

There is one moral we can take into the world of jewellery from this pursuit – if you do want to take a step into the unknown make sure there is a man with a rope behind you! Mike McGraw from the EDF for instance. Finally I would like to acknowledge the untimely passing of Tony Rudell, one of my sponsors. Our businesses have been in Wolverhampton for many years and we have always ‘got on’ extremely well. My sincere sympathy goes to his wife and all those who worked with him; he will be greatly missed.

Cashing in on Colour In a jeweller’s window of predominantly white metal set with white diamonds, the odd coloured stone design undoubtedly catches the eye, adding interest, warmth and more than a certain exoticism to the display. However, as many BJA members are keen to explain, coloured stones are very definitely not just for show – they can also boost sales and swell profits. Mary Brittain investigates. “ ncluding more coloured stones in one’s retail offering is an excellent way to preserve and improve profitability,” says stone dealer, and BJA national committee member, Richard Haruni. Haruni whose business International Gemstones (trading online as thegembank.com) specialises in the sale of rubies, all colours of sapphire and natural, coloured diamonds, is such a strong proponent of the coloured stone that he has recently written a 13 page practical guide designed for ‘anyone involved in designing, making and selling jewellery’. Entitled The Little Gem Book – selling coloured stone jewellery, the guide is available online from Haruni’s website www.thegembank.com where he also writes a regular blog and posts snippets of news and other information about coloured stones which he feels will be of interest to those in the trade. “I realised that my customers sometimes needed more than just stones and wanted to create a place where they could pool information and where I could help retailers to educate their staff,” he says.

42 The Jeweller June 2011

So why does Haruni believe coloured stones can improve profitability? “White diamonds, for all their prevalence, are considered rare-occasion items by consumers and sales are strongly linked to engagements, weddings, and anniversaries – their pricing is also very transparent. Coloured stones are bound by no such constraints and their cultural connotations as birthstones, symbols of friendship and health enhancers provide sales staff with many reasons to show their customers coloured stones where a traditional diamond piece simply wouldn’t do,” he explains. The sheer variety of coloured stones available is, as Haruni points out, another huge plus. “They can be matched to outfits, or serve as accent pieces and their customisation is limited only by

the imagination. They can be collectors’ items or conversation pieces,” he adds. His final point however, is perhaps the most compelling. “Carat by carat, rare coloured stones command exceptional prices. Moving only a few pieces each year can provide a good income to retailers either as a primary revenue stream or as a supplementary income. At the higher end of the market, prices remain undefined and the margins are healthy for those who make the effort to match the perfect stone to an eager client,’ he says.

Coloured stones demand attention These are advantages recognised by the designer maker Andrew Geoghegan who has recently become so interested in the potential of coloured stones that he is about to take an intensive GIA course to learn more about their intricacies. “Beautiful coloured

Baltic amber brooch and neckpiece with citrine and diamonds by David Fowkes

BJA Feature | stones demand attention. They are more photogenic than diamonds. They also look great aesthetically and have definitely broadened the appeal of my collection,” he told me. As Geoghegan points out, thanks to the Internet, the public are to a man (or a woman) all ‘experts’ in diamonds – or some certainly think they are. The large, online, diamond websites mean that they are also able to buy diamonds at very close to trade prices and these two factors, in certain circumstances, have an effect on the amount of profit available for makers and retailers of diamond jewellery. “If you add together the lower margins on diamond sales available, the reduction in actual diamond sales and the extremely high cost of precious metals we, as producers of jewellery, have to work extremely hard – through the sheer quality of our design and our craftsmanship – to add value. Coloured stones are different, they allow for greater self-expression and pricing is more flexible,” he says. Geoghegan’s latest designs feature a range of unusual stones including rutilated and tourmilated quartz and sunstone (a type of feldspar which can look a little like a blood orange). He has recently been working closely with a German master stone-cutter to develop his own unique cuts and is particularly excited about his ‘Satellite’ and ‘Celestial’ cocktail rings which have been designed, he says for ‘impact’ with 7ct stones set in white, rose and yellow gold. ‘Bufftop’ stones – smooth cabochon tops but deeply facetted beneath – are another recent introduction. “These are extremely tactile and feed two sensations – sight and touch – which enhances the desirability to customers,” he says.

‘Celestial Fire’ 18ct rose gold sunstone cocktail ring by Andrew Geoghegan. RRP £2725

new cuts – partly faceted, partly cut and partly drilled – which he will launch at Goldsmiths’ Fair this Autumn. When I spoke to him in May, he was compiling his year-end figures, and was delighted to be able to report sales ‘fractionally up’ on last year; no mean feat in

the current climate and perhaps further proof of the power of coloured stones. He did however sound a word of warning with regard to sourcing of the raw materials, which is he says becoming increasingly difficult. This is something also recognised by Kathy Whitehouse, marketing manager at the London gemstone dealer, Marcia Lanyon – a long-established business which sells, she says, just about everything except diamonds; from one-off pieces, through calibrated stones to beads. “Supplies are getting scarcer and mining companies are being forced to mine alternative sites or mine deeper and those issues, combined with climbing oil prices, are making coloured stones more difficult to source and more expensive,” she explains. The stones may be a little more expensive but as Whitehouse confirms demand is still strong, especially for boldly coloured stones such as pink tourmaline, Swiss blue topaz and citrines and good commercial opportunities can still be found for those prepared to be imaginative and adventurous. “Fashion trends for colour-blocking and clashing colours are undoubtedly having an influence. Some people are frightened to go the whole hog with their clothes so are introducing bright colours with their jewellery. We are also seeing more demand for highly faceted, geometrically cut stones with plenty of sparkle, than for nuggets,” says Whitehouse.

Their cultural connotations as birthstones, symbols of friendship and health enhancers provide sales staff with many reasons to show their customers coloured stones…

Individual cuts Big coloured stones have long been the hallmark of another well-known designer, the Nottinghamshire retailer and maker David Fowkes who will be showing his latest designs at ‘Treasure’ during the forthcoming London Jewellery Week. Fowkes, who has worked predominantly with coloured stones for the past fifteen years, remains evangelical about their beauty and the endless potential they offer for creating fresh new looks. Like Geoghegan, Fowkes too works closely with a German stone cutter and is currently in the process of creating a range of completely

Fancy sapphires (above) and a selection of coloured diamonds (main picture facing page) from International Gemstones

The Voice of the Industry 43

| BJA Feature Mixed metals

Designers Dower & Hall agree and have over the past 20 years given the coloured stone ring collectible status. The company’s ‘Twinkle’ rings which come in a eclectic arrange of rainbow coloured jewels are designed for stacking alongside each other and with their coloured enamel ‘Viva’ bands. These rings are marketed as baby gifts (pink tourmaline for a girl, blue topaz for a boy); hen-gifts, for a bride; birthday gifts set with an appropriate birthstone or to simply bring love, luck or happiness. Dark blue iolite, for example, is they say, believed to ‘awaken inner knowledge, power and strength’ while peridot ‘reduces stress, attracts wealth and alleviates anxiety’.

To keep his jewellery affordable David Fowkes has recently begun to set precious stones into mixed metals and his collection in silver with 18ct gold settings has been extremely popular. He has also been experimenting with gemmological materials which have strong visual impact but which are not considered inherently ‘precious’. Stones he has used include drusy onyx, hematite and ruby zoisite. The latter comes from Mozambique and provides, he says, a “wonderful marriage of red and green”. “You’ve got to be inspired and you’ve got to be excited to keep things fresh and moving on,” he says. At Marcia Lanyon they certainly have plenty of unusual stones to inspire and excite designers and retailers looking for the outof-the ordinary. Many of these have names A rare naturally occurring blue topaz mounted in 18 carat white gold with the addition of five graduated white diamonds by David Fowkes. RRP £9750

Individually created brooches in 18ct gold, diamonds and sapphires by Alabaster & Wilson

to conjure with, like phosphosiderite – a beautiful purple stone – or diopside which is typically a rich green and can make beautiful beads – which are currently in stock. While some jewellery makers like Fowkes and Geoghegan seek out the unusual, others like Alabaster & Wilson, which was founded in 1887 and is one of the doyens of Birmingham’s manufacturing jewellery community, are more conservative in their approach working mainly with the more ubiquitous coloured, especially rubies and all shades of sapphire.

customers, a trade driven Alabaster believes by strong demand for gifts for ruby weddings. Other popular choices are sapphires, of all colours, with multi-coloured sapphire brooches doing particularly well currently. ‘Nice emeralds’ are also in demand. “Coloured stone jewellery gives consumers the opportunity to wear something quite spectacular without a lot of expense and I believe that people are prepared to consider it and indeed to buy – if only they are given the chance,” says Alabaster.

Gemset ‘Twinkle’ rings from Dower & Hall. RRPs from £110 with coloured-enamel ‘Viva’ bands at £75

A ‘Super Seven’ round cabochon, an amethyst with fluorite and a quartz with hematite inclusions from Marcia Lanyon.

The final word goes to Richard Haruni. “The principle opportunity with coloured stones is that they cannot be priced specifically and are not therefore easily comparable. The downside is that because no one is spending millions of pounds marketing them, retailers must become educated and motivated into selling them themselves. Done well, this is very worthwhile. If you ask any big name business such as Bulgari, David Morris, Boodles, Adler or Theo Fennell, to name but a few, what they sell the most they will say colourless diamonds, but ask what makes them the most profit and they will say coloured gemstones and fancy coloured diamonds.”

Consumer interest “Coloured stones bring a bit of life to an otherwise dull retailer’s window and we’ve sold more and more of them as this century has progressed,” says Stephen Alabaster, a director of the business. Rubies are a particularly popular choice amongst its

44 The Jeweller June 2011

What do the best UK jewellers have in common? Gemvision. he House of Graff is synonymous with the most fabulous jewels in the world, symbolising rarity, beauty, excellence and, above all, the highest quality crafts-

involved in all stages from the mining, cutting and polishing of the diamonds through Head of CAD/CAM, Sam Sherry, explained how Gemvision’s Matrix software and Revo mill have slotted perfectly into this exacting environment.

“Gemvision Matrix is one of the essential precision tools in the craftsman’s armoury.”

“We have had the Gemvision system for a year now and the technical support we have received has been exceptional. The interface has a natural, friendly feel that appeals to the jewellery craftsman and complements our traditional methods perfectly. Far from forcing us to adapt to the software, resulting in pieces that look like computer creations, we have adapted the programme to our long-standing visual style and hand-made ethos. We see Gemvision Matrix as one of the essential precision tools

in the craftsman’s armoury. The way claws, collets and bezels are structured,

“Gemvision Matrix is very deep in its feature set, such as being able to create complex organic shapes, and in fact I’d say that there’s nothing that Matrix cannot do. Combining this with the Revo mill, which has meant that we can now hold stocks of wax models instead of castings in precious metal, has undoubtedly saved us money without any compromise in quality.

Raymond Graff “As a traditional craftsman jeweller, the adoption of the Gemvision system represents a profound new direction and I am very proud to be working for a British manufacturer that understands how the world’s best jewellery CAD/CAM technology can enhance the creation of the world’s best high-value, high quality jewellery.”

Gemvision products used by Graff

Matrix 3D Design Software lets you design virtual, 3D jewellery on-screen and in scale. Matrix is then able to output the ﬁle to a bureau service or to your own machine to realize the wax model ready for casting.

Revo 540 multiple axis milling system quickly generates a dimensionally accurate wax model that is ready for casting, allowing you to make your computer aided designs a reality.

4 Springwell Court Holbeck, Leeds LS12 1AL, UK phone 0113 3899710 fax 0113 3899720 email gveurope@gemvision.com web www.gemvision.com Read more success stories at www.gemvision.com/success

| Feature

Security is a topic of increasing concern for anyone working in the jewellery industry. In this special report we look at a number of elements from the vital physical deterrents to best management practices.

Taking a more physical approach There is much that can be done to protect a business against theft and robbery and physical security is clearly esential. Insurance brokers TH March offers this round-up of general security advice for jewellery retailers. igh values of gold, gems and watches left out of the safe at night, especially where it is visible to the public in the interior of the shop or through display windows, clearly increases the burglary risk. Good physical protection is essential. Crowbars, sledgehammers and angle grinders will eventually get through most barriers. A solid wooden door and lock is no match for a sledgehammer. Even steel doors with reinforced frames have been overcome. On the other hand, determined gangs have been foiled by such deterrents as heavy steel doors. The main benefit is to slow the criminals down. Here are a few security precautions to consider:

Ram Raids The best precaution against ram raids is street furniture â&#x20AC;&#x201C; of the concrete variety, as opposed to park benches! The most suitable form of protection would be fixed bollards.

46 The Jeweller June 2011

If these are unavailable or unworkable, you should ensure that you have very strong steel structures of reinforced concrete built into the lower half of your display window. This should be sufficient to take heavy vehicle impact.

Smash and Grab Many jewellers have high values in their windows. Strength of security glazing is mainly provided by the type and thickness of the inter layer. The traditional security anti-bandit glass, to the old standard BS5544, is made up of a 1.5mm layer of a plastic substance called polyvinyl butyrate (PvB) and for many years this, in various forms, was the best that could be provided. It comes in various thicknesses, 7.5mm, 9.5mm and 11.5mm as standard, plus various multiple laminates building thicker and thicker glasses until one reaches the lowest bullet-resistant standard

at 36mm. However, bullet-resistant standards in this material are far too heavy for most display windows and frames. As a rule the minimum quality of glass which should be installed within your display windows is to European Standard EN356:P4A with a minimum thickness of 11.5mm. However it is highly recommended that glass to the P6B standard is installed. Using polycarbonate glass will provide substantially improved protection for the thickness of glass used. It's worth remembering that polycarbonate glass is only as good as its framing. It needs proper installation in the correct type of high quality frames to be at its most effective.

Window Back Security Most of your value is in the display windows. You should have good smash and grab protection â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but what are the window backs like? In many armed robberies window backs are forced or the window backs themselves are smashed. In many cases jewellers have light weight locks that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t resist any force, light weight frames to window backs and just plate glass. Even if you can get only 7.5mm antibandit glass into your window backs, together with some decent locks, such as Abloy or Bramah, in a good frame, that will at least slow the criminals. This is particularly true where your risk is spread over a number of such windows, each of which has to be forced individually.

Feature | With traditional-type locks it is preferable for one key to be able to operate all locks, which should be carried on the person of members of staff. It is also recommended that these are slam-shut for easier locking. Hidden electronic locks with a key fob to open are useful. If you have sliding doors, make sure that they cannot be lifted or jemmied out of their rails and if they are unframed sliding glass, that the locking system does not simply allow one sheet of glass to be forced past the other.

If you press a PA, the police will come to where the thieves have been – your premises – and not where they are going.

SmartWater

Painted as a thief! Image courtesy of SmartWater

CCTV All new CCTV installations will record to a hard drive. If you currently still run a system recording to video tapes, consider upgrading to a digital system recording to a hard drive, incorporating a date and time log. Ensure that the recorded picture quality, including the printing of any still photographs, is of a good enough quality to assist the police in identifying a person or any identifying marks such as tattoos, scars, etc. It is generally recommended that security records should be maintained for 31 days. Many cameras on digital hard disk systems are capable of high quality pictures, but 31 days of high quality data takes around one terabyte, i.e. 1,000 gigabytes of memory. With many systems the software will sense a small hard drive and will downgrade the image to fit – great technology, of which the outcome is little better than analogue!

Fog Generating Systems Fog generating systems use glycol released very quickly so as to obscure the whole of the inside of your shop. It will disperse of its own accord within 10 minutes to half an hour, depending upon ventilation and does not leave any noticeable residue. In a burglary situation it has been used for many years and is very successful, particularly when it traps the criminal and

A fog generating system in action during an actual robbery. Image courtesy of Fog Bandit

prevents him exiting the premises – giving the police time to respond to the alarm. For many years it was not used against daytime risks, because of the fear of retaliation. However, it was then tried abroad in societies which are far more violent even than ours and adapted to the UK for business hours’ use by a number of higher risk businesses. It is also very important that there is an automatic audible explanation when the system is activated. Very careful consideration has been given to the health and safety issues both from the point of view of the customers panicking, the hostage risk and the risk of retaliation against staff or customers.

Mobile Panic Alarms Mobile panic alarms (PAs) are useful, but sometimes staff on the shop floor cannot use a mobile PA or get to a fixed one. Many shops will have CCTV covering the showroom with a monitor in a rear office, workshop or upstairs, where it is hoped that someone will spot what is going on and press a personal attack button. However, how many of you have staff with time on their hands to sit staring at a monitor all day? To overcome this, it is a good idea to have audio monitoring of the shop from offices or workshops so your staff there will hear the commotion going on. It also gives them time to lock safes in their areas and perhaps get out via a back door. Preferably, mobile PAs should be carried on the person of a member of staff. Use them at the start or during a robbery, not after. Also if a robbery has already taken place, and the thieves have left your premises, don’t activate your PAs – dial 999 and give the police information on the direction in which the thieves have departed.

SmartWater’s Index Spray System is a low pressure spray which has a unique DNA style code embedded into a fluorescent water based solution. Once activated, intruders will be sprayed with a harmless forensic liquid, which will remain on their skin or hair for weeks and on clothing indefinitely. The forensic signature within each installation is unique to that premises. SmartWater is well-known to most police forces. All stations have ultra violet lamps and some are now installing automatic ultraviolet systems to the entry routes into their charging rooms, so that any criminal picked up for some other offence who has been exposed to SmartWater will be immediately detected. It is obviously useful for burglary risks but for daytime risks it must be activated by a PA button. There is some argument as to whether that should be any PA button or whether only dedicated ones. Which is correct really depends on the layout of your shop and where your staff are likely to be.

Airlock Entry Systems At its simplest, an airlock entry system is an entrance lobby for customers and staff, with an outer door and an inner door, where both doors are controlled by electric release locks and only one door can be opened at any one time. Obviously doing this with a plate glass door and/or plasterboard partition, may deter an unprofessional thief who tries snatches, but will have no effect on a planned serious robbery. Clearly structures of this type cannot be installed in many jewellery shops without significant upheaval. They are something that need to be planned for on a forthcoming major upgrade of a shop front, or if a serious robbery has occurred and the risk of another cannot be taken. T.H. March & Co Limited is a family owned firm of insurance brokers who have been serving the jewellery industry since 1887. With offices nationwide the company offers a wide range of insurance products including schemes for the customers of jewellers.

The Voice of the Industry 47

| Feature

Training for the human element While physical deterrents may be in place, retail security can often fall down if training, procedures and management are not up to speed. Within its coverage of all elements of crime prevention, the new Security Guide for jewellers offers some best-practice advice on these areas and is abridged here.

Robbery procedure training Your staff are the most important part of your security regime. Staff who are well-trained are more likely to: • Raise the alarm prior to a robbery. • Act appropriately during a robbery. • Reduce the risk to staff and customers (and potentially reducing the loss). • preserve evidence following a robbery. Training should be aimed at ensuring staff are aware of the risk and are encouraged to act appropriately. The training should be divided into three key areas: • What is suspicious behaviour, how to report suspicious persons, vehicles and incidents. The training should ensure that all shop/ company security policies and procedures are identified and understood, and also look at how to use security equipment correctly. • What to do during a robbery: reduce the risk to staff and customers during a robbery. Ensuring that staff adopt an appropriate attitude, while taking in details of offenders including full descriptions, i.e. appearance, age, height, clothing, accent etc. Looking at ways to reduce the loss; throwing display stands in with the merchandise packs out the bag. • What to do following a robbery: first aid, police response and scene preservation are key. Preservation of life must always have priority, next ensuring that staff call police and close the premises. Ensure that staff are aware not to touch anything until advised by police. Also try to obtain details of all persons in the premises at the time of the robbery and encourage them to await arrival of police.

48 The Jeweller June 2011

Robbery can be a very traumatic event and even discussing it during a training session can be distressful for some staff. So, this type of training should be delivered by a facilitator who is able to address the subject with authority, empathy and has the ability to answer the ‘What if’ questions.

Excellent customer service Many professional criminals will perform a hostile reconnaissance of the premises prior to committing an offence. They will be seeking to identify location of the items they wish to steal, security measures in place, awareness and professionalism of staff and other issues that may affect their decision to target a particular premises. Customer service plays a major role in reducing all offences. Many offenders will look to identify premises where they can pass unnoticed. A simple “Good morning” or “Can I help you?” will discourage the less determined offender. Maintaining a customer focus will also enable staff to identify suspicious behaviour.

Good management At some incidents it is apparent that staff have failed to follow policies and procedures. These failures can have a significant outcome on the robbery and the resulting investigation. Examples include staff who have failed to report faulty security equipment prior to the offence; leaving safes open and displaying more than one high value item to an unknown customer. Many of these incidents could have been prevented if managers had ensured that policy and procedure was complied with.

Following a robbery the first concern must be for any injured staff or customers, however, remember the premises are now a crime scene and every person present at the time a witness. Correct actions immediately following a robbery may significantly improve the chance of police identifying and prosecuting the offenders.

Suspicious incident reporting This is an opportunity to identify suspicious activity and suspects and assist police in identifying and potentially arresting these offenders. Introduce a diary or log where staff can record details of anything they think suspicious, including the date, time and brief description of any suspicious incidents, persons or vehicles. This process will, in the event of a robbery, assist police in quickly identifying suspicious activity/persons.

Raising and maintaining staff awareness of crime Staff who are aware of the risks in the work place are more likely to follow procedures and reduce those risks; it is essential that members of staff are involved in the risk assessment process. They can help identify risks and develop procedures to them, and engaging them helps them understand the risks and their part in combating them. Early identification and reporting of suspicious incidents is a key factor. You will have knowledge of incidents that have occurred in your business and what the precursors were; sharing this experience with staff is an important part of raising awareness. Liaison with your insurer, contact with the local Safer Neighbourhood Team and crime reduction initiatives, like SaferGems, will keep you informed of local crime trends, however, this information needs to be passed to staff. Copies of the Jewellers’ Personal Safety and Security Guide for Robbery are available from the NAG upon request.

terrent e D y r e b b o R & y r 24/7 Burgla

For more information contact us

0844 5577 870

or visit www.bandituk.co.uk

gg Fog Bandit is the fastest and highest density security fogging system on the market, designed to protect an entire room in just a few seconds gg Delivers 28 cubic metres of fog per second gg Reduces visibility to just 25cm and lingers for up to an hour gg Projects the fog 6 metres in the ďŹ rst 2 seconds alone gg Up to 25 activations from one cartridge means no engineer call-out or top up costs after each activation gg Exceptionally low running costs gg Leaves NO residue gg One Fog Bandit can protect a room up to 504 cubic metres gg The most technologically advanced system on the market gg Manufactured in Belgium gg 5 Year Fog Bandit Warranty for peace of mind

FOR LIVE CCTV FOOTAGE VISIT OUR WEBSITE

The Voice of the Industry 49

The tigers return Michael Hoare reports on the worrying increase of ‘tiger kidnap’ incidences but reminds jewellers that SaferGems continues to win battles in the fight against crime. couple of years ago the EDF Oxford Congress was addressed by an Inspector from Thames Valley police on the subject of ‘Tiger Kidnap’; a form of crime in which abduction forms part of a robbery. Generally, somebody important to the victim, such as a spouse or family member is held hostage as collateral until the victim has met the criminal's demands – usually to hand over valuables, open a safe or similar. It is called a tiger kidnapping because of the predatory stalking that precedes it, and the inside information collected on the target through long hours of watching. Businesses can take several steps to guard against tiger kidnapping, but back in 2009 most kidnaps took place between criminals, especially in drug-related turf wars, so it was hardly necessary for our speaker to describe them. Now, however these crimes are more prevalent, and evidence suggests that jewellers should look again at their procedures in this area. An incident at the end of April bears this out. A Dudley jeweller was attacked and kidnapped from his home by a gang of five

white male robbers who forced him to open his shop while his family was held captive in their home. Two of the robbers stayed at his home while the other three took him to his shop where they made him open up. However, once inside, the shopkeeper managed to raise the alarm and alert the police by pressing a panic button, which is

50 The Jeweller June 2011

said to have filled the building with smoke. Panicked, the three robbers took the victim back to his home where they retrieved the other two men. While nothing was stolen from the store during the raid, a ‘significant’ amount of cash and jewellery was taken from the man’s home address; the effect on victims should not be underestimated.

Roundup While SaferGems figures for April reveal reports of 45 incidents and attacks, generating 20 alerts to members, most were of the more run of the mill variety as far as the statistics are concerned. Among these were a series of incidents that pointed to serious issues surrounding the security of display cabinets within certain branded outlets across the UK. Thankfully, SaferGems alerts contained images which helped stores in the North West identify alleged suspects and prevent possible further offences. Among the more unusual occurrences was an attempted armed robbery in Middlesex undertaken by a suspect wearing a full length Burkha-style outfit. Thankfully, having

gained entry to the premises and terrified customers by waving what appeared to be a firearm, witnesses struggled with the man and he made off empty-handed. Again in the ‘serves them right’ category comes the story of Sandeep Singh and Sandeep Kumar, who attempted to shoot their way out of a Black Country jewellers in

November last year, their robbery attempt having been thwarted by the activation of a smoke device. CCTV footage subsequently released by police, shows one of the offenders aiming and attempting to fire a 9mm handgun through the show window in a bid to escape. Thankfully, the gun jammed, witnesses foiled their escape, and both were trapped between the store’s ‘airlock’ doors where they stayed until cut free by the emergency services. In return for their criminal endeavours they received sentences of 10 and 12 years in April 2011, followed by deportation to their native India upon completion.

Allied in the fight against crime Full members of the NAG and clients of TH March have been the beneficiaries of the SaferGems scheme from its inception nearly two years ago, but as its reputation spreads we get many more requests from allied and affiliate members to join the scheme; and now they can! For a small administration fee, both categories of member can now add SaferGems alerts to the long list of benefits they already receive from the NAG. But what is an allied member, or an affiliate for that matter? Put simply, allied members are businesses who may be wholesalers or manufacturers, who do not own a shop, but trade on a business-tobusiness basis. Affiliates on the other hand are retailers who do not meet the full criteria of ordinary Membership. Good examples would be new startup businesses, antique dealers, and internet only businesses, and there are many more. So if you would like to become an ally (or an affiliate!) in the fight against crime, call Amy in our membership department (020 7613 4445, ext. 3), who can answer all your questions.

w w w. s a f e r g e m s . o r g . u k

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

Unfortunately he’s out there rime against jewellers is a serious problem for the industry. The threat is real, even if it’s more comforting not to think about it. Improving the physical protections at your premises is an obvious step to take and one that can certainly help in encouraging criminals to look elsewhere for an easier target. However, if they are determined to rob you, then unfortunately the likelihood is they will and if you’ve already been a victim of a violent robbery then you will know how traumatic it can be.

“An informative course with real life situations for you to fully appreciate the shock of such an attack taking part in your retail outlet. On a practical level you will learn how to cope and handle such a situation and how to work with the Police after the event to provide them with pertinent information. Perhaps the most relevant aspect of the course is potentially meeting with people who have unfortunately been involved in such incidents and learning at first hand the reality of such an occurrence.” Simon Rainer, Chief Executive British Jewellers’ Association

With this in mind, Primassure has become the first UK insurance broker to offer a Hold Up Safety Training course designed for jewellers, whether or not you are currently insured with us. This is not a security seminar in a large auditorium similar to others you may have been to. This course is designed primarily to help you protect your employees and the numbers attending each time are kept low so everyone can get involved and benefit the most. It’s a full day course and is held in our simulated jewellery shop at our office in Essex in conjunction with Stephen Parker – a former Detective Superintendent at New Scotland Yard. Stephen has many years’ experience investigating the types of crime common against jewellers and will provide you with cost-effective practical advice which will significantly reduce the risk of a robbery. He will tell you how to react safely if it happens and what to do immediately after it has.

“This kind of training is important on a number of levels. Not only does a business have a general duty of care under legislation to its employees; there is also a moral obligation to ensure staff are better equipped to cope with such incidents. From a commercial perspective, this kind of training can help ensure staff get back to work more quickly and can also reduce the possibility of future absence relating to the incident. Ideally training should be complemented with access to specialist counselling that is made available to any staff who are involved in a real hold up.” Paula Fisher, Director Practical HR (employment law specialists)

You will also see live enactments by professional actors of two types of armed hold up on a typical jeweller’s shop. They are very realistic because we believe that witnessing your first one at close hand in a perfectly safe environment will help you and your employees react safely should the worst happen to you. And if you’ve already suffered a violent robbery you can still attend to learn how best to react should it happen again and also to share your experience to benefit other jewellers and their employees.

To learn more please contact us:

0845 680 1860 training@primassure.com Hold Up Safety Training courses for UK jewellers. Exclusively through:

Full day courses cost £175 plus VAT per attendee including refreshments and buffet lunch. Discounts are available for BJA members, group bookings and existing Primassure clients. Primassure are international specialist insurance brokers to the jewellery and diamond trades. In the United Kingdom we are authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority. Please visit our website: www.primassure.com.

Theft is the problem. We have a solution! he nation’s foremost crime fighting charity has launched its first commercial product. The Crimestoppers Property Protector™ is a solution that can be dabbed in tiny amounts onto jewellery or other valuables. Every bottle contains its own unique microparticle code that the purchaser registers on the IMMOBILISE property registration website. The solution is almost invisible to the naked eye and virtually impossible to remove. If the item is stolen a UV light will reveal the tag’s presence and readers held by the police can identify the owner.

Unlike other products available, the tagged item does not need to be sent to a laboratory for forensic analysis. Nor is there an annual subscription. For a purchase price of £27.99 including VAT a bottle of the Crimestoppers Property Protector™ will tag up to 200 items which, if stolen and recovered, will give the police the best possible chance of returning them to you. You can be amongst the first to sell this innovative product to your customers. Primassure are proud to have been appointed as official agents for the marketing of the Property Protector and can provide you with a discount code to buy it in packs of 10 direct from Crimestoppers creating you a typical profit margin of up to 35% on the Recommended Retail Price.

Please contact us to learn more

0845 680 1860 www.primassure.com

52 The Jeweller June 2011

News, views and services The continuing case for fogging devices High speed security fog is increasingly being adopted by the jewellery sector as a proven deterrent and defence against both daytime robbery attacks and out-of-hours burglaries, says Neil Chrismas, sales and marketing director of Bandit UK. Here’s how it can help: • The criminal is restricted access to the assets and therefore there is no loss or the loss is fractionalised • Physical contact and verbal assault with staff is restricted and therefore the associated trauma and threat to staff is minimised • It’s a strong robbery deterrent (no reward – removes the incentive for the criminal) • By empowering staff with an element of control, an otherwise uncontrollable and frightening experience can be avoided and the trauma from the aftermath of a successful robbery is minimised

•

It is cost-effective and flexible to changing concept display needs • It can be extended to protect against both daytime and overnight risk with two separate fog activation settings from the same unit The proven approach to maximise the deterrent and the effectiveness of high speed security fog includes these guidelines: Daytime Risk NB. A clear exit route must be identified and maintained for the intruder and the public • Break the raiders’ eye contact and threat to staff within the shop • Create a screen of fog in areas where assets are displayed or accessed • Rapidly push the raider(s) out of the premises • Create a strong and credible deterrent How is this achieved? • PA activated system (fixed or mobile) • For added safety (and an EN50131-8 and insurance requirement for daytime activation) a voice announcer running in parallel with the fog activation must be deployed. • During a robbery the raider(s) must be able to get out as the fog is activated and an output must be provided for connection to the door release. • 24/7 risk: dual time settings – overnight risk via alarm sensors and daytime risk via PA buttons • Warning notices on public display (entrance door and counter) to deter criminals targeting the premises Overnight risk • Upon detection of an intruder, high speed security fog instantly ejects an immense curtain of dense security fog driving intruders out and minimising associated damage. The fog then back fills the whole premises to protect assets yet it is totally harmless and leaves no residue.

The best glazing standards for insurance peace of mind Beside the fact that fitting the right level of window protection to a retail premise might thwart a smash and grab attack, it’s also worth bearing in mind that not doing so could adversely affect any subsequent claim, explains David Codling, specialist Jewellers Block insurance broker. “Standards are benchmarks and we know what the tested products do,” he says. “Smash and grab attacks are common for retail jewellers and shops displaying high value items should have a good level of window protection.” The easy way to obtain this, according to Mick Fitch, security consultant to David Codling, is to install security commensurate with the risk, i.e. windows for high value gem stock and high quality watches should be glazed with glass with a polycarbonate interlayer to at least grade P6B of BS EN 356 – which is the European Standard. Where this is not possible the windows should be glazed with laminated anti-bandit glass to the British Standard BS 5544 (which is still available) or to P5A of BS EN 356 and then sheets of suspended polycarbonate or laminated anti-bandit glass should be suspended between the rear of the window and the window display. If glazing is installed which does not provide sufficient protection against a smash and grab attack, insurers can exclude cover for this or limit the amount they would pay following a smash and grab loss. If the window was being used to show high value diamond stock or expensive watches this limit would therefore only provide limited cover.

Crimestoppers charity launches security product The Crimestoppers Property Protector is the first commercial product to be launched by the Crimestoppers charity. The solution contains particles which, when read by a scanner, reveal a code number unique to that bottle (the code number is printed on the side of the bottle). The purchaser dabs

The Voice of the Industry 53

| Feature the solution onto any item of value (it’s virtually invisible but can be detected by UV light) and then goes online to register their name and address against that code number. The solution is almost impossible to remove and so means the item, if stolen and recovered can be traced back to its original owner. Unlike other products, which need the marked item to be sent to a specialist laboratory to be ‘read’, the Crimestoppers mark can be read by a relatively cheap scanner held by police forces, who can read the number and access the owner’s information. It retails for £34.99 including VAT and one bottle is enough for 200 applications. The product, produced by Stealthmark, is being marketed by specialist insurance brokers Primassure – the view being that jewellers could sell the product to their customers to mark their jewellery. Most jewellery stolen and recovered in this country is never returned to its owner. Instead it ends up with the police, who cannot identify the owner and so it is auctioned. Primassure see the product as ‘a huge step forward for the identification of stolen items as the means to do it rests with the police, not forensic laboratories’. Plans are underway to make the product available in large bottles allowing jewellers to mark their own stock. www.primassure.com

Heightened display case security Unibox, designer and manufacturer of retail and exhibition display systems, has launched a high security sliding door system for its glass and aluminium display units. Designed to combat the most common methods of theft, the system features a lock mechanism which, in addition to preventing thieves from sliding the glass doors open, also prevents them from breaking in by prising the doors apart. The locks also have removable barrels, making key changes simple to effect. In addition, the track along which the glass doors slide is designed so that the doors can only be lifted into and out of the display when located in a specific ‘release’ position, thereby preventing locked doors from being prised off their tracks. The panes of glass that form the display unit can also be fitted with a security film, which prevents the glass from shattering when smashed.

54 The Jeweller June 2011

central point, via internet or multiple PCs. Tel: 01442 230800

Security trade association launches

Unibox specialises in designing and manufacturing bespoke modular display units. Its product range includes exhibition stands, retail merchandising units, kiosks, glass display cabinets, jewellery window displays and point of sale display stands. www.unibox.co.uk

It’s done with smoke and mirage As a follow-up to its discreet window units, Concept Smoke Screen has launched Mirage – an alternative method of releasing smoke to the regular generator and designed to sit within a high quality shop fit or publicfacing area. Based around a light box (of the type usually seen at department store fragrance counters or high fashion point of sale), the smoke-releasing mechanism is housed within the frame, making it less likely to be spotted by a would-be criminal casing a shop. The front of the custom-designed box could house a poster, or perhaps a mirror or LCD TV – making it dovetail with the general interior design as well as the store’s security system. Tel: 01205 821111

Distance no object door entry system BPT Security Systems (UK) – a specialist in door entry, access control and gate automation – has launched XIP, an advanced door entry over-IP system. Designed in response to customer demand it uses an open IP protocol allowing for system expansion with no distance restriction between blocks and an infinite number of simultaneous calls possible. XIP can be used to link separate sites over unlimited distances, providing a greater level of integrated security over large areas. The modular structure and simplicity of XIP programming make it possible to create scalable systems. Sites can be expanded in stages across a development, so that full operation is guaranteed to already commissioned buildings whilst work continues without costly and inconvenient delays. All its features and options can be programmed and administrated from a single

Earlier this year saw the launch of Eurosafe UK, a new trade association for the safe industry. Its main aim is to restore confidence in European standards by encouraging insurers, brokers, specifiers, security managers and customers to recognise the importance of endorsing safes tested in the UK by LPCB/ BRE or elsewhere by laboratories affiliated to the European Fire & Security Group or those certified by the European Certification Board – Security. Mike Palmer FSyI, a member of in the British safe industry for over 40 years and well known for his views concerning declining security standards, was appointed chairman of the new association and pledged to promote the views of Eurosafe UK’s membership. www.eurosafeuk.org

ProtectionNet customer services Stanley Convergent Security Solutions (Stanley CSS), part of Stanley Black & Decker, has opened its first European ProtectionNet Customer Service Centre in the UK. The Centre is among the largest data and monitoring central stations in the UK, with capacity to monitor over 50,000 customers across the country and offers a comprehensive range of monitoring services, including Enhanced Call Verification for traditional intrusion systems, Advanced Audio Verification using exclusive Sonitrol® Audio Impact technology and Premier Video Verification intrusion monitoring, in addition to fire alarm monitoring and Stanley Managed Access Control services. As a state-of-the-art monitoring facility, the ProtectionNet Customer Service Centre is a Class II Alarm Receiving Centre (ARC) built and staffed to comply with BS5979. The centre features sophisticated monitoring workstations, each with the capacity to monitor 2,000 sites. These are staffed 24/7, 365 days a year, by personnel who have been rigorously vetted and certified through a meticulous four week specialist training course in all procedures relating to the ARC operations. Stanley CSS’ UK Headquarters is located at Bramble Road, Swindon, Wiltshire. For more information call them on tel: 0844 254 0032 or visit: www.stanleycss.co.uk

The only trade title with the exclusive support of both the NAG and the BJA The Jeweller is the only trade title to enjoy the unrivalled support of both UK trade associations, the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) and the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA). This gives the publication a broader appeal right across the industry. Editorial includes news and comment from both associations which reinforces The Jeweller’s position as the ‘Voice of the industry’. With a controlled distribution to members of the NAG and BJA, the magazine targets influential industry decision makers. These factors, along with a competitive rate card all keep The Jeweller one step ahead of its rivals and ensure a cost-effective vehicle for advertisers. Contact Ian Francis at the NAG on 020 7613 4445 or email him at: ian@jewellers-online.org to discuss how The Jeweller can raise your profile in a competitive marketplace.

info@bellechique.info www.bellechique.info

The Voice of the Industry 55

| Legal Jeweller

Online retailing Setting up your first website As soon as your website goes live your business will be available to internet users globally. As well as exciting opportunities, this shop window to the world can potentially expose you and your business to a number of risks and liabilities. Therefore, if you are selling products through your website, you must ensure that the contract between your company and the customer protects your business and complies with European standards, explains Intellectual Property lawyer Holly Strube. Website design One of the first steps in creating a website is to decide what you want it to look like, what you want it to do and who is going to design, build and manage it. If you ask a third party to do this for you, it is important to get a detailed website design and development agreement in place first. Most importantly, the agreement should assign all the intellectual property rights in the website and the underlying software to you. If the web designer is unwilling to assign the rights, you will need to take a licence from the designer to use the intellectual property. In this case seek legal advice to ensure that you are properly protected. The agreement also needs to set out terms in relation to performance of the site, the look of the site, payment, acceptance, liability, maintenance and support and hosting. Website content Copyright exists for works such as images, text, logos and designs. The term of copyright is life of the author/creator plus 70 years. You must ensure that you are the owner of any content that you upload onto your website or that a designer uploads for you. A common mistake is to upload images, wording and logos without a licence. If you are not the owner, you will need a licence from the copyright owner. Many images are now managed by large online image libraries such as Corbis or Getty. Consider who is able to amend the content of the website going forward and whether you need to enter into a contract with a third party to do so.

56 The Jeweller June 2011

Domain name Choose your domain name carefully. If you have a registered trademark, you will probably wish to use this in your domain name to increase search engine optimisation. However, if you do not have a registered trademark, it is advisable to carry out research into existing registered and unregistered trademarks including those of other jewellers before choosing your domain name. Domain names which conflict with registered trademarks or earlier unregistered trademarks may result in a dispute and your being unable to use the domain name. Website terms and conditions To limit your potential liability to users of the website, you will need to have terms and conditions on your website outlining terms of access, use of content, liability and intellectual property rights. You will need separate terms and conditions for any purchases made through your site and these must be available and agreed to by your online customers before they pay. Data protection legislation states that website owners must register with the Information Commission and have a data protection notice on their website. You must also fulfil the requirements set out in the Companies (Trading Disclosures) Regulations 2008 in relation to information set out on your website. Invitations to treat You should ensure that terms and conditions for the purchase of goods through your website clearly state that the display of

items for sale on your website is only an invitation to treat and not a legal offer to enter into a contract. If the advertisement constitutes a legal offer, you will be bound by the contract as soon as a customer places an order, even if the business does not stock enough goods to fulfil all the orders. For example, an advertisement which stated that a payment of ÂŁ100 would to be given to any customer who found that the product did not work would be treated as a legal offer not an invitation to treat. Territory As websites are available worldwide, you need to limit your exposure to the laws which apply to your website. If you are selling to purchasers outside the UK, you will be bound by the consumer laws of the country in which that consumer resides. You should ensure that you are aware of these laws and regulations. Distance Selling Regulations and E-Commerce Regulations These two European regulations apply to the UK and set out what information you must provide consumers with when selling goods online. They also provide consumers with certain termination rights. Before drafting terms and conditions for the online sale of goods to consumers you must fully understand your obligations under these regulations. Conclusion Although this is quite a lot of information to digest at once, you will find that a good commercial lawyer can help you with all the issues outlined in this article relatively cheaply. For more information contact Holly Strube on tel: 0118 952 7144 or email her at: hstrube@boyesturner.com

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The Voice of the Industry 57

| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

w i t h

F e l l o w s

Antique JEWELLERY Going South The fate of South Africa as a nation was changed hugely and irrevocably in the 1860s by the discovery of one thing – diamonds. Jo Young explores how diamonds were first discovered in the country and how a young man’s chance find led to the creation of a whole new industry.

First discovery In the history of South Africa, it is fair to say that the latter half of the nineteenth century was a hugely important, significant time. The discovery of mineral wealth in the country helped to transform its fortunes from that of a modest state, dependent on agriculture, to one of the world’s mineralexporting powerhouses. The upheaval – both economic and political – wrought by this sudden influx of mineral wealth was on a scale that the country had never before seen, and effectively marked the beginning of ‘modern’ South Africa as we know it today. All of this, however, was sparked off by one young boy: the 15 year old Erasmus Jacobs, son of farm owner Daniel Jacobs. The Jacobs family lived on the Orange River, near Hopetown in South Africa’s Northern Cape. One day in 1867 Erasmus found a stone on the banks of the river and, thinking it pretty, simply picked it up and kept it for a toy. Little did he know the significance of his find. Even less aware was his mother, who, on discovering that a neighbour (on whose land the pretty pebble had been found) was interested in buying it, breezily told him that “you can keep the stone, if you want it”.

58 The Jeweller June 2011

The interested neighbour, however – one Schalk van Niekerk – must have had suspicions of his own about the strangely shiny stone as he handed it to a colleague who took it to be investigated and valued by the Civil Commissioner in Colesberg, who correctly identified what it actually was that the boy had found. This ‘stone’, it later transpired, was a whopping 21.25 carat diamond. And it was the find that was to change South Africa forever.

Diamond Impact Three years after Erasmus Jacobs found the Eureka stone, a shepherd found another, even larger stone. Remarkably, the stone was found on the same neighbour’s land – and this time, Schalk van Niekerk was clearly even more confident of what had been found. A De Beers marketing image

The Star of South Africa

He exchanged the stone with the young farmer for (it is said) 500 sheep, 10 oxen and a horse. Later that same week, he sold the stone in nearby Hopetown for a sizeable fortune. This diamond, which became known as the Star of South Africa, was the discovery that really triggered the South African diamond rush: prospectors from around the globe heard about these incredible diamonds that could be just plucked breezily out of the river, and soon the farm and all around the surrounding area were inundated with diamond-hunters dreaming of chancing across their own life-changing fortune.

The naming of Kimberley From these two discoveries, of course, many more were soon made: within the year, diamond diggers found stones at several farms in the area ( the Bultfontein, Du Toits Pan, and Vooruitzight farms). In 1871, an incredible 83.50 carat diamond was found on a farm belonging to two brothers, named De Beer. As with prospecting areas in other parts of the world, large ‘tent towns’ grew up around these farmlands, filled with diggers looking for diamonds. Most of the diamonds that were discovered in Kimberley at this time were found in a type of rock called kimberlite, or ‘blue ground’. Over time, these tents were replaced with a town of hastilyconstructed shacks. At first, this town was given the name New Rush – named for the very scramble for instant fortune that had brought about its existence – and by 1873 this diamond-rich area had been renamed altogether – this was now Kimberley.

Antique Jewellery | Kimberley in 1873

In 1872, huge open quarries were created in Kimberley, which were being worked over by 2,500 miners and more than 10,000 labourers. It was backbreaking, difficult work, as it was all done by hand, with rock being brought to the surface in buckets by a system of ropes and pulleys. Remarkably, the Colesberg Kopje hill where the first diamonds had been found became its geological opposite: a huge hole in the ground which became known (imaginatively enough) as ‘the Big Hole’, the largest to be created by human labour in the world. Over 3 tons of diamonds were found in the quarry – quite an extraordinary yield – before it was closed in 1914. Three further Kimberley ‘holes’ were also closed in 2005.

Development of the diamond industry Within a few short years of young Erasmus’ chance discovery, then, the whole area had been changed beyond recognition: thousands of people had descended on Kimberley, mines dug and, before too long, commercial (primarily European-owned) groups formed. The diggers initially formed The Kimberley diamond mine crater

The Eureka Diamond Erasmus Jacobs’ stone keepsake – which now carries the absolutely lovely (and apt) name of the Eureka Diamond – went on a long journey before finding its current residence in the Kimberley Mine Museum, where it is on permanent display. Having been identified as a precious stone, the Eureka was first sent (through the post, in a paper envelope – how wryly we now laugh!) to the colony’s pre-eminent gemmologist/mineralogist Dr William Guybon Atherstone. Atherstone was one of the pioneers of geology in South Africa, although he was originally English. It was he who confirmed the carat size of the stone, after which it found its way to the important and celebrated 1867 Paris Exhibition. Upon its return to South Africa, the stone was bought for the hefty sum of £500 by Sir Philip Wodehouse, the Governor of the Cape Colony. He took it to Britain, which is where it was cut into a 10.73 carat cushion-shaped brilliant stone. The newly-cut stone remained in Britain for a century. In April 1946, the stone was sold at Christies and set into a bangle; the jewellery fetched £5,700 in the auction. In 1967, the diamond was bought again, this time by De Beers, which donated the Eureka Diamond ‘to the South African people’. It has been in the Kimberley Mine Museum ever since. their own groups, which then began to merge into larger diamond dealing companies. One, however, was bigger than all the rest.

A De Beers marketing image

De Beers That company, the name of which is inextricably linked with the South African diamond mines, and which remains the best known name in the diamond industry today, is of course De Beers. De Beers was founded by the Englishman Cecil Rhodes. A shrewd businessman, Rhodes bought up the merged diamond dealing companies and in 1888 formed De Beers Consolidated Mines. His company went on to market a staggering 90 per cent of the world’s diamonds, a figure which has now fallen to 40 per cent. Rhodes himself is a rather controversial figure, as he was an enthusiastic believer and participant in British colonialism and imperialism. Having made his fortune in diamonds, Rhodes became a successful politician, and founder of the state of Rhodesia which was named after him. As historian Richard McFarlane puts it, “Cecil John Rhodes was as integral a participant in southern African and British imperial history as George Washington or Abraham Lincoln are in their respective eras in United States

The Voice of the Industry 59

| Antique Jewellery history. Thus most histories of South Africa covering the last decades of the nineteenth century are contributions to the historiography of Cecil Rhodes”. Cecil Rhodes

has been mired in controversy in recent years, as the impact of colonialism in Africa is being slowly reassessed. As with so much of African history, this was a case of African natural resources being bought up and exploited by canny (and often ruthless) speculators from elsewhere around the world. The morality and ethics of diamondmining in South Africa and elsewhere in the world is a complex and at times murky subject – not least where the treatment of workers is concerned – and to explore the

political ramifications of diamond mining would take a whole article in itself. Suffice it to say that the late nineteenth century was a brutal and prejudiced time, and the mining industry earned itself, historically, an uncomfortably brutal reputation. It is encouraging that steps – including arguably the most important, the establishment of the Kimberley Process – are now being taken to ensure that the diamond industry, not just in South Africa but around the world, has the potential for a far fairer future.

Whittaker’s World They think it’s all over… well, it is now!

SA diamonds today Soon after the first gold rush, South Africa’s mining operations expanded to include more than a dozen other materials. The industry grew steadily until, by the middle of the last century, the country was one of the top two producers of diamonds, gold and platinum. That made it, to the jewellery industry as many others, very important indeed. Today, the mining industry contributes just under 10 per cent of South Africa’s GDP, down from an average 15 per cent 30 years ago. Domestically, the mines have been oustripped by manufacturing and financial services among other industries as the top employers and contributors to national output. However, the mines still account for a greater share of South Africa’s export revenues than any other single activity.

Controversy It is worth mentioning here, of course, that mining was not new to the region prior to the 1860s: mining for iron was being undertaken as much as 1,700 years ago, while copper was also being mined for centuries before the discovery of diamonds – miners were known to be active in some regions of the country as early as the thirteenth century. The creation of the Kimberley diamond mining operation, however, is very much a story of European wealth-creation. As such it

60 The Jeweller June 2011

The image of Michael Middleton finally relaxing on his tractor lawn mower on the Sunday afternoon after the Big Day, brought a touch of reality after all of the ‘excitement’ of the RW – how many fathers first get to realise that their daughter is serious about ‘the boyfriend’ when he lands his helicopter on their back lawn? So, apart from an extra day off for all of our staff, did this ‘royal event’ bring anything to the jewellery trade? The use of a pre-owned engagement ring (however good the provenance!) didn’t spark a rush of young couples to buy traditional sapphire and diamond cluster rings – despite the number of enquiries we had from local press and TV we weren’t able to report a single enquiry for one. And the Welsh gold wedding ring doesn’t seem to have produced a Klondike rush of ‘panners’ to the Welsh rivers and hills either! Ah, but the tiara! Nice that her future grandmother-in-law had something that Kate could ‘borrow’ – and what a stonker! A classic… such style and so complimentary for the wearer – I can’t help feeling that Cartier would not be offering to remake it for the £19,000 that was allegedly paid for it by the Queen’s father all those years ago! So, if you happen to have the odd Cartier tiara tucked away in the back of your safe (and I guess a number of you do!) now might be the time to get it into the front of your window and enjoy the reflected ‘glow’ from the royal nuptials. As the Middleton family life returns to normality (well, as normal as it will ever be when your daughter is married to the second in line to the throne – they must be thinking ‘thank goodness it’s all over’) for the jewellery trade, it was not a ‘big moment’ apart from for the designer jewellers (Robinson Pelham) of the earrings and tie pins with ‘acorn motifs’ sported by the Middletons. It is definitely ‘over now’ and we can return to speculating on the rising prices of precious metals. Stephen Whittaker is Managing Director at Fellows, Auctioneers and Valuers, based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. Tel: 0121 212 2131 or email: stephen@fellows.co.uk.

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The Voice of the Industry 61

| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see… Set in Style, The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sarah D. Coffin (£32.00. Thames & Hudson) Founded in Paris in 1906 (but born ten years earlier when marriage brought two diamond and stone-cutting families together) the company expanded its reach by creating a special market for itself in North America. And it is this glamorous, wealthy client-base, stretching across a century, that this lavish book largely concentrates on. Images of the gorgeous

Sales & Exhibitions June Current-16th July: British Silver Week, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2

This 2,000 year old iron Age silver bowl, the earliest example to have been hand-made in Britain, will be on display during British Silver Week. Fitting into the palm of a hand, the bowl was found at an open air shrine at Hallaton, Leicestershire in 2000. A replica of the bowl, created by Sheffield silversmith Alex Brogden, will also feature in the exhibition. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk 17th-19th: Cockpit Arts 25th Birthday Open Studios, 18-22 Creekside, Deptford, London SE8 3DZ A chance to buy from the designer-makers of jewellery and other arts, while also indulging in grown-up pass-the-parcel and birthday cake. Anja Lubach, Hannah Bedford, Jennifer Kidd, Lucy Martin, Maya Selway and Ornella Iannuzzi are among those showing. Visit www.cockpitarts.com/shopping-events for more details.

62 The Jeweller June 2011

pieces are complemented by essays by the author (a curator at the National Design Museum in New York) as well as Suzy Menkes, fashion critic of the International Herald Tribune and jewellery historian Ruth Peltason, who looks at the Hollywood stars and socialites who wore VC&A.

23rd-26th: EuroGems, Sainte Marie-auxMines, near Strasbourg France London-based designer Ornella Iannuzzi will be showing with a group of designers in the Creators Space of this consumer and trade show that specialises in minerals from around 900 dealers from 60 countries. For details visit: www.euromineral.fr July 21st-24th: Art in Action, Waterperry House, Wheatley, Oxon. Jewellery designers and metalworkers will be among the designer-makers selling their work at this all-encompassing art event that will also include demonstrations, classes, lectures and performing arts. www.artinaction.org Ring by Ornella Iannuzzi, showing at Cockpit Arts and EuroGems

New Rings: 500 Designs from Around the World, by Nicolas Estrada (£19.95, flexibound. Thames & Hudson) There are two things that connect the pieces shown in this extraordinary book: they are all basically circular (with a few squarish ones thrown in) and they can be worn on a finger. And there all similarities end. Organised thematically, the 591 contemporary rings illustrated range from the simple and everyday, to the abstract, sculptural and downright challenging. They're in gold and precious stones and they're also made from wood, shells, fabric, plastic and rubber. The author also includes biographies and contact details of all the artists featured, which is pretty useful should you get the urge to go wild.

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs June 23rd-26th: Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Fair, Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. Including Fine Design and Fine Gems. www.exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com 29th June-7th July: New Designers Show, Business Design Centre, Islington, London N1 Discover emerging talent at this graduate show in two parts – Part 1 concentrating on jewellery, fashion, ceramics and glass, and to be opened by Stephen Webster. www.newdesigners.com Quote ND69 for discounted ticket price for readers of The Jeweller magazine. July 5th-6th: Jovella, International Jewelry Exhibition, Tel Aviv, Israel Contemporary Israeli jewellery, fusing modern and traditional design, in gold and diamonds; silver, gemstones, plus costume jewellery. www.stier.co.il 15th-17th: Gujarat International Jewellery Show, Ahmedabad, India Organised by the Gem & Jewellery Trade council of India, GIJS will feature around 200 stands showing diamond, gemstone and Kundan jewellery and plain gold and silver jewellery. www.gjtci.org

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Last Word With all things ‘security’ on our minds, this month we have invited Michael Ferraro, MD of TH March to take the gruelling Last Word challenge. Personal Profile Following his grandfather and father, Michael Ferraro joined specialist insurance brokers TH March in 1972 and has been managing director of the business since 2000. After working in its Plymouth and Birmingham offices, Michael finally returned to the London office where he began and took on the role of chairman between 1991-2006. Together with the NAG, TH March founded (and continues to monitor) the SaferGems initiative. Michael is also the invited insurance observer to the NAG’s IRV Forum and vice chairman of the trustees of the BJGF Benevolent Society.

How would you describe your personal style? Methodical, with an eye for detail. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? My wife would answer that on my behalf as “anywhere with mountains”. They provide some of the most beautiful scenery anywhere in the world, and give good exercise, great companionship, and a real contrast to day to day cares. What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? Approachable, caring and something of a perfectionist. Hopefully that’s much the same according to others! Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? As many insurance brokers serving different industries report, a better understanding by their clients of the coverage and limitations of their insurances. In reality that probably translates as wishing for a 36 hour day, so I’ll stick with life as it is.

66 The Jeweller June 2011

If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? I think we tend to forget just how lucky we are to work in both an enjoyable and challenging industry. I would use my magic wand for something else. To what do you attribute your success? Inevitably, as the third generation of my family in TH March, a certain degree of inheritance, but that would have dissipated long ago without my wife’s patience and support and a great team of passionate staff across the country that care about the clients they deal with. Do you Tweet? Not as far as I know! Tell us something not many people know about you… I had a youthful passion for potholing. I was fortunate to be involved with some of the best caving clubs and cave research organisations in the world, caving in not only the UK but also France, Switzerland, USA and Mexico, including being first into what

was – until about three years ago – the cave which held the Americas depth record. Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country)? Like many men, I usually hate shopping. If not insurance and jewellery business, what might your career have been? I started out as a molecular geneticist, a career which had and still has enormous potential to benefit mankind, and also huge potential for damage if geneticists get it wrong. It still interests me, though I am totally out of date with the scientific base. What book are you currently reading? The Making of the English Landscape by W G Hoskins. It’s an old classic which I had heard of but never seen, until I spotted a copy in a colleague’s bookcase at his home Quick fire (no deliberating) • Red or white wine? Red • Diamonds or coloured stones? Coloured stones • White or yellow metal? White • TV or radio? Can I have both – though not at once? • Bentley or Roller? Neither. A car needs to be a practical economic mode of transport for a variety of purposes rather than a status symbol, so Volvo Estate. • Delegator or control freak? That depends on the topic. If I need to get involved in detail, I tend towards control. • Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian? I prefer Thai! • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Classical, though the Beatles did have great musicality.

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