The Jeweller Magazine - Mar 2011 by Zest Europe

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Jeweller March 2011

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Association

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The Voice of The Industry

BaselWorld 2011 Preview How to plan an exit strategy Tips for spotting real amber

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Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

M A R

1 1

Communiqué

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

Show of Strength

NAG News

With just a few weeks to go until the start of BaselWorld,

Member of the Month

and with anticipation mounting, The Jeweller unveils

BJA News

BJA Simon Says

Jeweller Picks

Ethical Jeweller

Legal Jeweller

Security Update

BJA Colours of Spring

Education & Training

Insurance Matters

IRV Review

Notebook

Appointments

Display Cabinet

Afghanistan’s Buried Treasure

The Last Word

Jo Young tells the story of the central Asian country’s

The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For further information about The Jeweller please visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

details of launches from some of the show’s key exhibitors

Making a Success of Succession In the first of a series of NAG Round Table discussions we put succession planning under the spotlight by asking do you have an exit strategy?

Amber Forever With look-alikes on offer, Mary Britain talks to amber-producing BJA members about how to identify the real thing

‘lost treasure’, which is the focus of a major exhibition at the British Museum

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street,

Cover Image Cover image in conjunction with Maurice Lacroix To become a stockist of Maurice Lacroix please call: 00800 777 00888 www.mauricelacroix.com

London EC2A 4XG

CUBE Publishing Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7833 5500

Tel: 020 7613 4445

ian@cube-uk.com

www.jewellers-online.org

Art Director: Ben Page

Editor: Belinda Morris

ben@cube-uk.com

Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk

Publisher: Neil Oakford neil@cube-uk.com

BJA Marketing & PR Manager Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

Mary Brittain, Ute Decker,

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Miles Hoare, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

This month Michael Hoare praises one fearless lady in Northampton on behalf of the industry; considers the issues around Fairtrade Fairmined gold; raises the subject of succession; rallies us all for London Jewellery Week and gets chummy with the PM.

Thanks Again t has to be the ultimate ‘have-a-go heroine’ story doesn’t it? A lady of mature years descends like a whirlwind on an alleged gang of ne’er-do-wells and skittles them all, swinging her handbag in whirling dervish mode! That was the Spring Fair story as far as I was concerned. While we patrolled the aisles of the NEC, Ann Timson was taking direct action against a gang allegedly intent on smashing NAG member Michael Jones’ Northampton jewellers’ window and stealing the stock. The actions of Mrs Timson, and the good people of Northampton, who intervened to capture at least one of the gang as they tried to make their escape on motor scooters, certainly fired the imagination of the press, and a couple of clicks on Google revealed at least 283,000 references to the incident on the world’s media. Doubtless, by the time you read this, the story will have been supplanted by the next ‘sensation’ and consigned to history. But before we forget about Mrs Timson I would like to say one more thank you to her, and all the other ‘have-a-go’ heroes who take the trouble, sometimes at great personal risk, to intervene when something seems wrong.

4 The Jeweller March 2011

Of course every commentator made a feature of this lady’s age and it is tempting to attribute a kind of bulldog spirit to senior citizens. Certainly many older people nurture the desire to avenge those who have so diminished the quality of life they once knew but their declining powers both restrain and frustrate them. But I don’t think this is just about age. Recently I commented on the citizens who thwarted a gang attack on a Fraser Hart store in the City of London by first barring their exit, then knocking them off their motorcycles, and unmasking at least one of them. Not pensioners this time, but ordinary men and women who are simply sick of thugs!

Chains and Counterclaims ver four years the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has racked up over two hundred members; has a number certified against new standards, and is about to enter a new phase by developing a new standard for ‘chain of custody’ assurance schemes. I attended a recent workshop, hosted by RJC and heard informal contributions from gold miners, casters, consolidators, shippers, traders, and associations. As the sole retail

presence I voiced my opinion that jewellers feel vulnerable to adverse comment and protests from pressure groups, the media, and concerned consumers; and therefore there is a demand for products that come with assurances. But the plethora of initiatives and claims in circulation lead to confusion. This in turn leads to inertia through lack of certainty. Clarity is required and simple solutions are desirable, and recently Fairtrade Fairmined gold was launched as one more route to assured ethical standards. However it takes only an instant for the nay sayers to gather, and already I am reading sceptical

The actions of Mrs Timson, and the good people of Northampton, who intervened to capture at least one of the gang, certainly fired the imagination of the press… comments on the influential Madison Dialogue website about the standards applied to the artisanal mines supplying Fairtrade product, and the supply and demand situation. I don’t know enough to express an opinion on the subject but have always felt uneasy about the common assumption that in mining terms big is ‘bad’ while small is ‘good’. Yes, the big miners make big holes in the ground, but small ones make correspondingly more, and less well regulated holes. The argument rages on!

Talking of Succession n the last issue I mentioned ‘round table’ consultations that I was planning over the next few months to discuss trade matters. The first, on the subject of ‘Succession

Comment | Planning’, has taken place, and the results are reported in full on page 42. What is clear from our discussions, and a survey conducted before the event, is that the employment landscape has changed; the state pension safety net is holed; private pensions have underperformed; and the expectation is that people will work into later life. Young people are now sceptical about the value of higher education when set against the cost of attaining it. So it was with interest that we re-visited a question that we asked of members many years ago, “what’s your exit strategy?” It seems that the answer now is less ‘how do I exit’ and more ‘how do I pass it on’, as young people become more interested in the practical challenges of running a business, and we old folk have been granted the ‘freedom’ to work beyond sixty five!

London Jewellery Weak he current manifestation of London Jewellery Week enjoyed a successful press launch at the Royal Exchange, in the City of London, recently. The dates have been announced; key sponsors are in place; and principle events including Treasure, the Goldsmiths’ Days of Knowledge, the launch of the Platinum Heritage Collection, and the Hatton Garden Festival are scheduled. As an ambassador for the event I sincerely hope that all jewellers, not just those in London, will take advantage of these dates to make as much publicity for themselves as possible. A lot is made of the much vaunted London Fashion Week, and for my money LJW must try and emulate it. But in my view the key difference is that LFW, by publicising the quirky and sometimes outrageous, succeeded in forcing everyone, especially ‘red top’ readers, to have an opinion about fashion – even if they hated it! Result, everyone felt entitled to comment, and at its peak everyone knew LFW was happening. Dare I say that London Jewellery Week has been a little too exclusive in the past and maybe needs to be a bit more egalitarian in its approach? Don’t forget, we’re all in this together!

match your Colour

Letter from the PM he Prime Minister keeps sending me emails! I don’t know what I’ve done to deserve this but perhaps he knows I’m a constituent and that’s why he’s written to me twice already? Anyway he seems to know my name and everything, calls me Michael, and even signs the bottom. In his latest letter he also mentions Philip Green, who’s found out that the country has been wasting an awful lot of money on copier paper, and the upshot is that he’s going to give us all a go at selling it to the government cheaper. Mr Cameron’s ambition is that 25 per cent of government business should go to SMEs, and that lots more contracts should go to charities and social enterprises. In fact businesses are encouraged to log on to the Contracts Finder website (www.contractsfinder.businesslink.gov.uk/) and use it to start bidding for government contracts. Apparently, there are opportunities for everyone, be they ‘a friend, family member, business or charity’. Sounds interesting! My wife’s WI group make wonderful jam; I wonder if there could be an opening?

Tel: 07884 002312 mail@5c-group.com - www.5c-group.com Baselworld 2011 Hall of Impressions 2.0, Stand G40

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“I expect the 2011 show to be a more aggressive and optimistic event in comparison to the last few years and I expect the 2011 selling season to be as well”

ell, I have been editing The Jeweller for a year now and to mark the occasion I

decided to treat myself (if that’s the right phrase for such an ordeal) to an eye test.

My first in about 30 years. Wow, what a difference the correct pair of lenses makes when you’re looking closely at gemstones, intricate jewellery settings and the movements of particularly technical watches! And I’ve been doing a lot of that recently, what with the Jewellery Show in Birmingham last month, Inhorgenta (by the time you read this) and compiling this month’s BaselWorld preview. And I’m just writing about it all – I heartily recommend that all buyers on this eye-straining circuit should lie down in a darkened room with soothing, chamomile-soaked cotton wool pads over their weary peepers between shows.

Page 32

And talking of aches… I’m wondering how the feet of the girls on the stands at the Jewellery Show are faring. All day, everyday in towering heels and five hours on the dance floor at the organisers’ Jewellery Quarter bash in the same killer shoes. How did they do it? It’s true what my mother says – you have to suffer for fashion. Great party though – thanks guys! Never let it be said that this industry doesn’t know how to let its hair down – must be the (possible) post-recession euphoria. The memory of some of the moves witnessed will carry me through to the next ‘do’. It’s also gratifying to see the jewellery business building up a good head of steam in preparation for this year’s London Jewellery Week. Despite a few last minute financial

In a tale that resembles the plot of a Hollywood adventure, the gold had been placed in secret underground vaults which could be opened only by seven key holders…

hiccups, the 2010 event created a real buzz and thanks to the enthusiasm and commitment of Della Tinsley, MD of LJW; her team and the many event ambassadors and sponsors, the 2011 extravaganza promises to be more exciting still. And despite its moniker, jewellers don’t have to be based in the capital to get involved in some way. Consider yourself told…

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 50

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Weston Beamor gains ‘Fairtrade’ and ‘Fairmined’ certification he Birmingham based rapid-protyping and casting company, Weston Beamor, has become the UK’s first company to gain permission to operate as certified caster of ‘Fairtrade and Fairmined’ gold. WB’s announcement follows several months of intensive work with the Fairtrade Foundation, the independent non-profit organisation that licenses the use of the Fairtrade mark on products in the UK in accordance with internationally agreed Fairtrade standards. To be accepted, Weston Beamor was required to put in place a rigorous tracking system to trace the gold throughout its manufacturing processes and ensure that it is kept entirely separate from all the company’s other production alloys. To ensure that products can be easily identified and properly tracked throughout their entire life, Fairtrade and Fairmined hallmarks have been created and these will be applied to Weston Beamor’s castings at the sub-Assay Office within its production facility. The gold Weston Beamor will be using for casting is a world first, having been mined using an independent, ethical certification system for monitoring small-scale miners, working mainly in Bolivia and Peru as well as offering a fair deal for all those involved in the production process.

Mr Manuel Reinoso on WB’s stand

Last month representatives from the two mining co-operatives concerned visited Weston Beamor’s stand at The Jewellery Show. Mrs Juana Pena, chair of the Cooperative Minera Cotapata in Bolivia and Mr Manuel Reinoso, of the Compania Minera La Victoria in Peru met members of Weston Beamor’s production team and saw examples of the sort of products which will eventually be created using their gold. Mrs Pena said that she believed gaining Fairtrade status would help her and her fellow workers to gain better prices for

Double whammy for Sarah Ho s well as being revealed as the creative ‘name’ behind Brown & Newirth’s first designer label collection – which was revealed at The Jewellery Show last month – gemmologist and goldsmith Sarah Ho was announced as the Houlden group’s Designer of Excellence at the show. The creative director of Sho jewellery showcased her new collection in the Design Quarter Gems section. Stuart Laing, Chief Executive of the Houlden Group and one of the judges of the award, commented: “We were very impressed with Sarah’s design skills and her ability to create pieces that marry traditional symbolism with contemporary trends. It was a hard decision to make as all of the designers were very special; however Sarah definitely had the edge.” Family heritage and milestones in her life have always influenced Sarah’s own collections, and her collection for Brown & Newirth takes the traditional bridal ring concept and adds a modern twist, with the inspiration coming from the tiara, which is “an elegant and fascinating piece of jewellery that has survived the test of time, always making a woman feel special,” says Sarah. The Collection has a traditional engagement ring, wedding ring and eternity ring, which can all fit together.

8 The Jeweller March 2011

their gold and would help to improve their day-to-day working situation. “We are absolutely delighted to be able to offer Weston Beamor’s customers the chance to work with Fairtrade and Fairmined gold,” says group managing director, Andrew Morton. “Ethics are high on our list of business priorities and this is an excellent way for us to be able to demonstrate pro-actively our commitment to fair-sourcing practices.” At present the supply of Fairtrade and Fairmined gold is relatively limited and casting at Weston Beamor will initially be available in 18ct yellow, white and rose gold and only to those who have also received certification from the Fairtrade Foundation to manufacture in the metal. As yet no prices are available for Fairtrade casting, however it is anticipated that due to the limited supply and strong anticipated demand for the gold, these will be higher than for ordinary gold and that production runs will be available for small quantities only. “It is going to take a little while longer before Fairtrade and Fairmined gold jewellery is available for retailers to sell on to the public but we have undoubtedly taken a huge leap forward,” says Morton.” To find out more about Fairtrade and Fairmined gold visit: www.fairtrade.org.uk/gold

Industry News |

Final members of jewel robbery gang jailed n Friday 3rd February 13 members of a 30-strong gang of jewellery robbers were jailed after a Metropolitan Police Service’s (MPS) Flying Squad investigation into the UK-based robbery network. Seventeen people had already been sentenced the previous day. The gang conspired to commit a string of highly organised robberies and burglaries across London, the home counties and one offence in Antwerp, Belgium throughout 2009 and 2010. They were convicted at Kingston-Upon-Thames Crown Court. Detective Inspector Jason Prins, of the MPS Flying Squad based at Barnes, said: “These sentences are the result of a lengthy operation by the Met’s Flying Squad. We targeted these violent individuals who have shown they were prepared to use significant force to steal large quantities of jewellery. “The incidents were terrifying for the staff members and their customers who were caught up in them; it is our duty to protect people from this level of violence. These defendants operated as an organised criminal network, meticulously planning and carrying out the most brazen daylight raids. “I am very grateful to, and extend my thanks to, the industries concerned and colleagues from other police forces who worked very closely with us to ensure this extensive operation gathered sufficient evidence to present the strongest case to the court. The sentences also demonstrate our commitment to deal with violent and organised crime in our communities and sends out a strong message that this type of criminal behaviour will not be tolerated.” Among the jewellers that were targeted by the gang are Michael Matthews of Westover; GH Pressley & Son, Worthing and Mappin & Webb, Guildford. On one occasion a gang travelled to Antwerp to commit a robbery during which they fired CS spray at passers by and the owner of the shop. A covert operation was mounted on 31st March 2009 resulting in the arrest of James Stewart, Malcolm Hambleton, Charles Sadler, Aaron Phillips and Andrew Peterson while committing a raid on Mappin & Webb jewellers in Guildford. A further covert operation on 18th May 2009 resulted in the arrest of Anthony Bado, John Chambers, Marc Hardy and Lee Rawlings as they prepared to raid David Dudley jewellers in Marlborough.

Furrer-Jacot launches Warranty for Life at Basel wiss fine jewellery manufacturer Furrer-Jacot wants to ensure that 'a special piece for unforgettable moments should be enjoyed for a lifetime' and so is offering customers of its rings the chance to take advantage of its new Lifetime Warranty to ensure this. The scheme, together with a range of services is being launched this month at BaselWorld. By registering at no cost, a piece on the company's website, customers will receive a Lifetime Warranty against defects in materials and workmanship. Serial Numbers will be inscribed in each piece of jewellery produced by Furrer-Jacot to be identifiable as an individually crafted piece. This will also assist in the recovery of a lost or stolen ring. Complimentary size adjustment of the ring, after one year from the date of purchase, will also be possible and an additional size adjustment can be made at no charge, when the ring is passed on to a direct heir. The complimentary replacement of lost diamonds in a ring of up to 0.05 carats if under warranty also forms part of the new scheme. “We are very well aware of this commitment,” says Walter Häusermann, CEO and managing director of Furrer-Jacot, “but an enterprise that unconditionally subscribes to the highest standards of quality, enacted by a team of exceptionally motivated and highly-qualified specialists, is able to take on such obligations towards its clients.”

S N I P P E T S Ana de Costa on Oscar red carpet? Fine jewellery designer Ana de Costa, who unveiled her Alchemy collection at The Jewellery Show last month, was commissioned to create a pair of earrings for consideration for an A-list actress to wear while attending the Academy Awards ceremony last month. The one-of-a-kind, handmade 18ct gold, emerald and cognac diamond earrings were designed and created in association with Gemfields which produces reliable and ethically-sourced Zambian emeralds. The eventual sale of the earrings will enable de Costa to give a percentage of the proceeds to the fundraising for schools charity established by Gemfields for its mining community. Conflict diamond warning The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) has distributed a letter, written by Mathieu Yamba, chair of the Kimberley Process, to all of its 29 members, to draw attention to what Yamba calls “the situation in Côte d’Ivoire which is a cause for concern for the Kimberley Process in consideration of the risk of re-emergence of conflict diamonds in Côte d’Ivoire and an increase in rough diamond smuggling throughout West Africa.” The WFDB has asked its affiliated bourses to advise their members of the KP letter and assure that its contents are posted on the bourses’ notice boards and websites. New distributor for Luminox Luminox watches has appointed Burton McCall as exclusive distributor of the brand in the UK. Trusted and worn by SWAT teams, helicopter rescue, stealth fighter pilots and the Navy SEALS, Luminox watches employ Luminox Light Technology to provide reliable visibility. It joins Burton McCall’s portfolio which includes Victorinox Swiss Army, Mondaine and Cuervo y Sobrinos.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Mastermelt anniversary astermelt Ltd celebrated its 25th anniversary in January with a ball in London attended by over 200 customers and guests. The president of the Group and founder of the company, Robert Davis, gave a speech in which he thanked the customers for their loyalty and was pleased to see many of their first customers attending the evening. Mastermelt was originally a two-man melting operation with Davis and Craig White operating out of a Hatton Garden workshop. The company initially focused solely on the Hatton Garden manufacturing jewellery workshops processing sweeps and lemels. The business grew and resulted in Mastermelt Ltd purchasing the Presman Bullion operation in the mid 1990s and relocating to the Presman Building in Hatton Garden. The Mastermelt operation now processes jewellery sweeps from all over Europe with Scandinavia and the Benelux providing strong growth for the company.

Robert Davis

S N I P P E T S Diamond firm joins charity venture Birmingham-based DeJoria Diamonds, specialising in certified conflict-free diamond jewellery, has become the first jewellery brand in the UK to sign up to a new charitable fundraising venture which has been developed and implemented by a consortium of the UK’s leading charities. British Red Cross, Great Ormond Street Hospital Children’s Charity, WWF and Cancer Research UK are the four charity partners behind Give Change Make Change (givechangemakechange.com), a fundraising innovation which allows shoppers to round up their bill to the nearest £10.00 with the difference being donated equally to the four charities involved. Personnel changes announced at The Dreyfuss Group

London Jewellery Week dates embers of the jewellery industry gathered at the Royal Exchange in the City of London in January to learn about the activities and events planned for London Jewellery Week this summer. Running from 6th-12th June, the confirmed attractions include workshops and seminars at the Goldsmiths’ Company; Purejewels’ Platinum Heritage Collection launch; Open House at the Oxo Tower; Treasure – the contemporary jewellery fair; a Fairtrade gold VIP reception; GIA Open Day; Hatton Garden Festival and Open Studios at Cockpit Arts. The week, which has received sponsorship from the Bahamas Tourist Board, Champagne Thiénot, Swarovski and Swarovski Gems and the Goldsmiths’ Company, aims to allow the public (as well as other industry members) to engage with London’s ‘world-class jewellery scene at every level’.

Garrard and Stephen Webster to launch Fairtrade & Fairmined gold lines arrard and Stephen Webster are among the world’s first 20 jewellers to launch Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold. Following the unveiling of the first kilo bar of Fairtrade and Fairmined gold last month it was announced that the first Stephen Webster Fairtrade Gold collection will be available in spring 2011 as part of the brand’s first Engagement and Wedding Ring collection. The Garrard Fairtrade Gold collection will follow later in 2011. “Once we get started we intend to quickly grow the volume of business we conduct using Fairtrade Gold – one day I want it to be 100 per cent of the gold we sell,” says Webster, founder and creative director of Stephen Webster Ltd and creative director of Garrard. “For now, both SW and Garrard brands will be offering engagement and wedding rings made in London using this gold. I thought it made no sense to design a specific collection in order to separate the ethical gold and the normally sourced gold, why not offer the first supplies to couples getting engaged or married as an alternative. Even though the cost to us for such gold is over 10 per cent higher we will be absorbing this premium. We don’t want price to be the reason not to choose a more responsible product,” he adds.

10 The Jeweller March 2011

The Dreyfuss Group, the fourth generation Swiss family-owned and run watch company, has announced a new appointment at management level and a change to the structure of both the UK and International sales divisions. Andrew Keighley, formerly of the Swatch Group, has joined The Group as the UK field sales manager. Andrew will take responsibility for the area sales managers and field training and support representatives. He was previously the UK brand director and national account manager for Calvin Klein watches and jewellery. In addition, UK sales director Thomas Tope has been promoted to group sales director and will be responsible for the UK and international sales for the Group. Diamond by Appointment updates website Diamond by Appointment has launched its 2011 e-tailing business model which showcases new online technology via PC or iPads, and utilises a range of modules adapted by its programmers. One module is called a ‘revolution in the third dimension’. Other high tech services include a photographic and editing suite, Net website, Ajax, Flash, SQL Server, Silverlight, online video conferencing and online video training facilities.

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| Industry News O B I T U A R Y

Chris Sanders Former managing director of Brown & Newirth

ver the Christmas holidays, Chris Sanders, 64 years old, and a twice-a-week gym man, contracted swine flu and was immediately admitted into King George Hospital, Ilford. After developing respiratory complications, Chris died on Thursday 20th January 2011. Chris joined the jewellery trade in the late sixties and worked as a diamond miller for the wedding ring manufacturers, Jay & Bamford and Brody Williams. In 1970 a mutual acquaintance introduced Chris to Eddie Brown of Brown & Newirth, who had started his company three years earlier and was looking to expand into wedding rings. They got on so well that Chris decided to join him. As the company grew so did Chris’ responsibilities, culminating in his being appointed managing director in 1984. Chris was an instinctive business man and under his stewardship the company flourished. His management style of creating a ‘family ethos’ at work, proved successful and the company grew stronger. Chris was adored by his staff, which at one stage extended to over 100 people, and if any were in trouble or a bit short of cash they knew that Chris would always have an open door, an open heart and on many occasions, an open wallet. In return they gave him the loyalty such an inspirational leader deserves. His ideas may seem out of place and old fashioned to today’s corporate executives, dealing in the cut and thrust of balance sheet manipulation but Chris simply believed that if the company cared about both the employees and the customers, and dealt with them all honestly and fairly, the business would continue to grow. He was proved right and Chris delighted in making B&N one of the most successful and respected jewellery manufacturers in the UK, winning several awards for service, designs and manufacturing. Chris was a very rare man, a genuinely lovely guy. A generous, immaculately dressed, old school gentleman, who was highly regarded and well respected by all who knew him. He always tried to see the good in people and somehow managed to look at every situation from both sides; which is why in almost 32 years that I worked with Chris, I never heard a single person say a bad word about him. The funeral in his home village of Chigwell Essex, was attended by over 300 people. Chris leaves behind his loving wife Sue, his two children Scott and Nina, their spouses and his first grandchild of three months.

Gary Williams, former Sales Director at Brown & Newirth

Bulova awards to jewellers he results of Bulova UK’s ‘Be Noticed By Bulova’ mystery shopper programme have been counted and show that UK retailers have wholeheartedly embraced the brand since its launch in the UK in 2010, with over 70 per cent achieving the top award. ‘Be Noticed By Bulova’ involved a total of 116 store visits in November and December by Bulova’s sales and merchandising representatives. Outlets were evaluated on a variety of criteria including product displays and brand and product knowledge. Awards were presented on the spot with a Bronze, Silver or Gold prize of up to £50 in shopping vouchers, and recipients of the Gold award also received a certificate in recognition of the personal knowledge of the staff member surveyed. Six of the stockists visited scored a full marks for their knowledge of Bulova, and for the quality of their product display: David Wright, F.Hinds, Barnstaple; Linda Ashworth, H.Samuel, Bromley; Paul Saw, Harrisons Jewellers, Aylesbury; John Durling, H. Samuel, Lewisham; Paul Hilden, Goldsmiths, Bury-St-Edmonds and Sanjay Singh, H. Samuel, Oxford Circus, London.

12 The Jeweller March 2011

S N I P P E T S Pandora awarded Best European IPO Mikkel Vendelin Olesen, CEO of Danish charm and jewellery brand Pandora was officially presented with an award for Best European Initial Public Offering (IPO) in 2010 at a ceremony in London last month. The award was given by the financial magazine International Financing Review for Pandora’s successful entry on the Copenhagen stock exchange last October. GIA open evening GIA London is to hold an open evening on Wednesday 6th April with the aim of introducing the world of gems and jewellery to anyone who wishes to learn more about building a career ‘based on knowledge, ethics and professionalism’. For information on the free event, which starts at 6pm contact GIA on: info@gialondon.co.uk Weston Beamor competition winner announced Owen Condon, a student in Jewellery and Silversmithing at Birmingham City University was the winner of Weston Beamor’s annual design competition. During The Jewellery Show last month Condon was presented with a prize of £500 and a week of work experience at the Group. Entrants were asked to create a range of jewellery for men using Gemvision’s Matrix CAD software. The winning designs, which were based on car tyre tracks, demonstrated not only a particularly clever use of CAD – he created cutting tools to make track patterns on the rings – but also demonstrated awareness of the current market by producing a design which cuts down on the overall metal required to make the product. Natalie Baxter and Cherry Wu were voted runners up in the competition.

| NAG News

NAG launches Grow Your Own campaign at Spring Fair 2011 hanks to everyone who visited our Grow Your Own themed stand at The Jewellery Show during Spring Fair International 2011 in Birmingham last month. The Grow Your Own campaign was launched with our stand’s very own and most appropriate planting and potting area, complete with vegetables, seeds and flowers. The campaign was aimed primarily at motivating members’ efforts towards new beginnings by encouraging them to ‘grow their own’ business/sales staff. The main focus is

to keep staff up-to-speed, motivated and therefore businesses on track. With a little help from the benefits and services at the NAG we hope to: plant the seeds in order to maximise the potential of sales staff, with the help of the NAG’s education and training courses; and help keep businesses up-to-date with the latest retail directions by joining the next EDF group. For more information on the JET courses, tel: 020 7613 4445 (option 1) or email: jet@jewellers-online.org For further information about what being a member of the EDF group could mean for you call Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org Make space in your diaries for Spring Fair International 2012 which will be taking place at the NEC Birmingham from the 5th-9th February.

Grow the expertise of your sales force with the help of an NAG Seminar Essential Selling: One day – Tuesday 22nd March/ Tuesday 20th September Our Retail Selling Seminar is presented by Nigel Amphlett, a specialist in training and management development with over 20 years experience working with some of Britain’s largest private and public sector organisations. This seminar will improve your selling style; help you to beat targets; convert sales; gain repeat/referral business and improve your confidence in dealing with customer queries or concerns. Fees: NAG Members: £212 + VAT, Non-Members: £274 + VAT

Learn To Value: Two day — Monday and Tuesday 4th- 5th April Learn to Value is an intensive course designed to teach the necessary skills in appraisal and valuation methodology. You will learn how to connect your disparate strands of knowledge to produce a sound valuation document with accurate values, using available price sources and provable methodologies. The instructor is Brian Dunn who has over 40 years experience as a retail jeweller and valuer and is a past chairman of the NAG Valuations Committee. Fees: NAG Members: £342 + VAT, Non-Members: £506 + VAT For more information or to book places contact Amanda White at the NAG on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

14 The Jeweller March 2011

Competition winners ongratulations to our Grow Your Own competition winners. NAG members Peter Bramwell of Bramwells Jewellers and Alan Goodchild of Goldfactors Jewellers both won a pair of tickets to the Royal Horticultural Society’s (Chelsea and Hampton Court Palace) flower shows. The competition was part of the NAG’s ongoing GYO campaign and theme which was launched at Spring Fair International 2011. The NAG hopes both members have a blooming marvellous time!

NAG News |

NAG Legal Helpline continues to save Members money he NAG’s Free Legal Helpline has been continuing its sterling work, by assisting its Members with free and impartial legal advice. Over the past year, the service has received over two-hundred and fifty calls from members seeking guidance. Figures from First Assist show that the main areas of concern were contract and employment issues, which made up to 70 per cent of the overall volume of calls. The remaining calls were regarding a number of concerns from consumer credit, through to business relationships, litigation and general matters. Legal advice is one of the unavoidable costs in running any business. Every company will require some sort of legal advice, at some point in its trading career. However, the costs of seeking it from your average solicitor will range from £200 to £250 per hour: billed in 10minute time-slots, the costs of receiving sound legal advice can clearly mount up. Which is not to say that a relationship between a business owner and a legal professional is not important, as well as advised! The Helpline can assist in lots of ways, but obviously a lot of cases are best discussed directly with a specialist service, like a solicitor, or an employment; health & safety or competition act compliance service. However, in these tough economic times, the cost of seeking clarification on certain actions and their legality will ultimately have an effect on the bottom line. The NAG’s Free Legal Helpline enables business leaders to check the law surrounding proposed courses of action for (as the title suggests) absolutely no fee at all. Each call runs for around 12 minutes and in monetary terms this could save you and your company around £50 a call. Even if you may need more specialist advice, the NAG Free Legal Helpline can act as a first port of call for any legal issues. If you are a member of the NAG, and you’re unsure about your legal obligations surrounding your business, please feel free to give the Helpline a call on: 01455 255191

Annual General Meeting and Luncheon– 29th June his year the NAG’s Annual General Meeting is to be held at the Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, London on Wednesday 29th June. Guests will be invited to arrive at 10am for tea/coffee, followed by the AGM at 11am. In the afternoon there will be a pre-lunch drinks reception after which guests will enjoy a three course luncheon. The date coincides with the Hall’s summer exhibition, ‘Mindful of Silver’, which focuses on work from a selection of top silversmiths and their processes of development through to the end product. All guests will have the opportunity to browse the exhibition at any point throughout the day. If you would like further information about the day or would like to book your place at the AGM and luncheon, contact Ritu Verma on tel: 0207 613 4445 or email her at: ritu@jewellers-online.org

New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Harshita Deolia on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: harshita@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Affiliate Applications We Love Diamonds (Sarah Stamp/James Scott) Leicester Kohinoor Diamonds Ltd (Raj Vyasabhattu) Wembley

Allied Applications J P Supplies (Jacky Pullinger) Gloucester

Alumni Applications Mark Norwood, Chester Claire Magowan, Dublin Daniel Remmert, Peterborough Kerry-Elizabeth West, Gateshead Jonathan Andrew Woodman, Harrogate

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on tel: (029) 2081 3615.

Save the date… The EDF Oxford Congress will take place on Thursday 16th June. Further details will be announced in the next issue of The Jeweller.

Upgrading from Member to Fellow A Ewen Taylor PJDip FGA DGA, Edinburgh

New Member Applicants Tom Ward PJDip PJGemDip PJValDip, Alexander Craig Jwlrs, London, EC2

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

Member of the Month Harshita Deolia talks to Paul Davis of Bristol-based Parsons the Jewellers, which recently celebrated its 300th anniversary. One of the UK’s oldest family jewellers it continues to adapt to the changing markets without losing the traditions and values that were the foundations of the business when it first started. Tell me a bit about the business. Parsons was established in 1710 in the old market district in Bristol which was near the main shopping quarter. The current shop is about half a mile away from the original premises where the women in the Parsons family started out as watch and clock makers in their front room. Over time the shop evolved and they started selling jewellery. I bought the shop from the last member of the Parsons family about 10 years ago; it’s a shame but there’s none of the immediate members of the family left any more. I used to be a supplier to them and that’s how I got to know the family.

We need to be able to talk to the customers – I think that’s really important. Is there a gemstone that has been particularly popular? Tanzanite is certainly a favourite; we introduced it about 10 years ago. I’ve loved it for years. I found that if you can explain it well to customers, they become drawn to it too. We used to hold ‘Tanzanite Days’ where we would invite special customers and suppliers. It peaked last year; people are now seeing it as a good investment as the price of the gemstone has increased a lot over the years. Coloured diamonds are also reasonably popular probably because people are more informed via shopping channels. And customers are always pleased to see something different in the window. What’s the secret to a 300 year old shop? I think it comes down to constantly evolving and reacting to the market. We have always had a good ethos being strong family jewellers. We make, mend, value, adapt and sell jewellery.

What do you sell? We sell coloured gem set and coloured diamond jewellery. We look for good colours and unusual stones. We also sell wedding rings and silver jewellery, and have a strong men’s collection of silver. We no longer sell watches though as more people buy them off the internet. Would you consider selling online? Possibly… I’m not 100 per cent convinced.

16 The Jeweller March 2011

How did you celebrate the 300th anniversary? Are you still celebrating? We’ll carry on as long as we can! We’ve had features in regional papers and magazines, and also radio interviews, and it’s still continuing. We are Bristol’s oldest business. There were banners put up in town and we also ran a competition to find the oldest piece of jewellery from Parsons the Jewellers (with a hallmark or receipt). It turned out to be a wedding ring from 1860 with our hallmark, in its original box with a receipt. There were so many items given to us like bags, boxes, promotional items given with jewellery – there’s a whole memorabilia cabinet with 175 year old pieces! It’s amazing to see such a loyal customer base; they wanted to be a part of this story because

it’s not just our history, it’s theirs too. Jewellers mustn’t lose sight of the fact that the pieces they sell are such a huge part of family histories – christenings, weddings, birthdays etc. As it’s a family business that has been passed down in generations, do you have any plans to continue that tradition? It gives me sleepless nights! How does anyone pass on something like this?! I definitely never want to see it close down. Life has changed tremendously so it’s a question of working out how to keep it going and also a question of thinking about my pension. The answer is, I don’t know. What’s the most unusual piece of restoration work you’ve worked on? Making a ring mount for a gem that was made from the ashes of a customer’s husband. The diamond was made in America, but we made the mount and set it. The customer was enthralled with it when she saw the final piece. Can you share a story with our readers about a memorable customer? It was a very busy Saturday morning and suddenly we had a whole wedding party walk in. The bride and groom were dressed in full bridal attire! There must have been about 50 people and it seemed to be a bit of a carnival atmosphere. They had come in to buy their wedding rings as the best man had forgotten them! They needed them pretty fast as the registry office is next door to the shopping centre. It took about 15 minutes but all was OK in the end. It wasn’t surprising that the only person missing from the entourage was a sheepish best man…! If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month please email: harshita@jewellers-online.org

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BJA News | Julie Driscol, show director; Abigail Keefe; Paul Burkmar; Jenny Hattersely; David Metcalfe, BJGFF President; Rachel Galley; Simon Rainer, BJA CEO

What a great show! ongratulations to the show organising team for the improved look of the Jewellery Show which I think looked and felt more up-market. Credit must also go to the many BJA members who really stepped up to the mark, invested in stand design and displayed their goods with the professionalism worthy of any international event.

A 10 per cent rise in visitors drove attendance to well over 20,000 which, considering the economic conditions was excellent and members reported good levels of interest which they should convert to spring orders. As event director Julie Driscol said: “The phenomenal success of the Jewellery Show 2011 is the result of collaboration –

the team consulted with exhibitors, buyers, buying groups and trade associations over the last year to deliver an event of which the UK jewellery industry can be truly proud.” The sales can still continue via the impressive show website where each exhibitor can post company information and load up to fifty images; this is part of the marketing package you buy into, so I encourage you to use it to the full. The number of visitors interested in jewellery on the site grows with 45,000 people viewing exhibitor profiles over 150,000 times during the last seven months and encouragingly nearly a third clicking through to exhibitor websites. I imagine everyone visiting the fair noticed the Pandora Catwalk parades and the models wearing the beautiful cuffs from BJA competition winners! Many thanks to EMAP and the BJGF Federation for sponsoring the BJA Award at the Jewellery Show – as you can see from the picture we have some very happy designers!

Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA

Join the UK’s biggest jewellery event – LJW ondon’s reputation for jewellery design is second-to-none and its heritage of jewellery-making stretches back for centuries. To celebrate its position as a world-class jewellery destination the city’s designers, manufacturers and retailers will be opening their doors and welcoming visitors to events across the capital. From 6th12th June 2011 you can get involved by hosting your own activities or by taking part in one of the cornerstone events like the Hatton Garden Festival, Royal Exchange cocktails and catwalk event supported by Barclays Wealth or Treasure. Between 9th –12th June, Treasure will showcase visionary design, cutting-edge technology and new talent at this year’s London Jewellery Week. The show will

provide a platform for pioneering exhibitors from the very best in British contemporary jewellery design and welcomes exhibitors from outside London. The BJA can offer its members a discount of £100 off the stand package of £800 which includes a quality cabinet with integral lighting. As part of your package you will also receive a London Jewellery Week membership for sole traders worth £300, which includes: • Designer listing on the London Jewellery Week website with one image • Designer listing in the London Jewellery Week guide with one image • Reciprocal web link and use of London Jewellery Week logo • Your biography/images in the London Jewellery Week online press library • Inclusion of your product or service offers on the London Jewellery Week Select Card with access to new clients and the consumer database Last year 80 exhibitors came together

and so far this year some 32 exhibitors have signed up alongside the new Goldsmiths’ Company Pavilion at Treasure, presenting up to 42 jewellers selected from previous Goldsmiths’ Fairs. Swarovski and Swarovski Gems are Sponsors of LJW and will have a presence at Treasure.

The Essence section will house jewellers using ethical materials and will host a Fair Trade party on 10th June celebrating the launch of the 22 collections from the designers licensed to use the newly launched Fairtrade Gold. To learn more email: info@treasureuk.com or info@londonjewelleryweek.co.uk Visit the websites at: www.treasureuk.co.uk or londonjewelleryweek.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 19

| BJA News

IJL celebrates 55 successful years! t may not feel like it but the autumn season shows are just around the corner. To date 180 BJA member companies have already signed up to exhibit at International Jewellery London – out of the 324 confirmed exhibitors. This sets the path for yet another exciting show at Earls Court in London from 4th-7th September. The 2011 event is already 70 per cent booked, which represents an impressive 10 per cent increase in bookings at this same point in 2010. “This is the second year in a row that the show has reported an increase in exhibitors in early forecasts, and this is following an extremely successful show last year,” comments Sam Willoughby, event manager.

“We’re very excited about the 55th anniversary show and it’s fantastic that so many quality exhibitors have already announced they are going to be showcasing their latest designs there. We’ve listened to the industry and our Advisory Board and we

are passionate about developing and enhancing the show. We’ll be announcing a host of new seminar speakers over the coming months – IJL is famed for its high profile complimentary seminar programme – and the Diamond Club will once again bring senior figures from the best retailers across the UK to IJL,” she adds. Of course if you are a BJA member at the time of booking your stand, you will enjoy a 2.5 per cent discount off your stand space costs and your IJL website listing will be free of charge, saving you £215 or £75 if you are a designer maker. Please note if you are a young designer and yet to show, why not apply for selection on the KickStart stand? Now in its third year, KickStart is an initiative developed by IJL and the British Jewellers’ Association to support up-and-coming design talent looking to develop their businesses. This group showcase allows exceptional designers to gain business knowledge, exposure and retail contacts. For further information, to read about experiences straight from previous KickStarters and to apply visit www.jewellerylondon.com/kickstart Last year saw 8,932 visitors at the show so with 2011 slipping away fast it is important that whatever role you play in the jewellery market, that you take time to start planning your involvement with IJL 2011.

Call to designer makers! he BJA is soon to undertake an in-depth survey of designer makers, jobbing jewellers and craftsman. “We want to be all-inclusive and reach the greater community of workers who often work by themselves or with another jeweller. This survey will include current and prospective BJA members so all are welcome to take part. The results will be confidential at an individual company level but will provide valuable sector information when collated as a whole, helping us focus on real issues and plan relevant programmes,” says the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton. The emailed questionnaires will help provide a big picture of designers’ issues, funding requirements, skills shortages, training needs etc. If you would like to be included and are trading in the UK please send your contact details to: lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

20 The Jeweller March 2011

Harrogate in bloom for BCTF he British Craft Trade Fair (3rd-5th April) will see 500 exhibitors show everything British at The Great Yorkshire Showground, Harrogate. BJA members receive a 10 per cent discount but must be quick off the mark as the demand from jewellers is always high at this mix media show. The organisers, PSM, closed the entries for jewellery and metal-smithing 2011 back in July 2010. The jewellery category continues to flourish and is by far the biggest sector at BCTF, and Margeret Bunn, organiser and selector of the fair said: “I just love selecting the jewellery exhibitors at BCTF; some of the new talent that comes through each year in this category is quite extraordinary, and the different mediums that exhibitors adopt is a delight in itself.” The 2011 fair will be made up of both established exhibitors, many of whom will be launching new ranges at BCTF and 72 jewellery newcomers who come in each year brim-full of fresh ideas. The BJA will be presenting an award to a designer showing an aptitude for product design and craftsmanship alongside a good display and marketing effort. “This award is always extremely difficult to judge as the standards are so high, however I and the guest judges really look forward to the challenge each year!” comments Lindsey Straughton, BJA marketing manager. Kokkino, below, has launched a brand new collection for spring 2011 – ‘Mandela’ uses bold graphic designs inspired by architecture, textiles and tattoos.

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| BJA Feature

Simon says! BJA CEO Simon Rainer encourages the coming together of the UK watch and jewellery industries. t’s Basel 1994 and I’m waiting expectantly outside the Messe for my first introduction to the worlds largest watch show. Outside on the main concourse I am surrounded by the sybarites, disciples and plebeians of the watch world eager to devour the latest offerings from the Swiss watch making masters. A gentle surge carries me into the main hall with a human roadblock at the Ulysse Nardin booth feasting on Oechslin’s new Perpetual Calendar. Again, another diversion is needed outside the Rolex booth where smartly dressed security guards are discreetly vetting those wishing entry to view the latest Submariners and Oysters. I am introduced to Alain Silberstein’s perfection of horological architecture and the stunning simplicity of the Bell & Ross collection – I even manage to find a watch company distributing the ‘Rainer Brand’! And it was at Basel 1994 where there was a moment of catharsis and for a few seconds the Rainer synapses crackled to signal that this was a pretty good industry to be involved in. At the time I did not connect with how important both the watch and jewellery industries were to each other. In 1994, Hayek’s concept Swatch stores were in full swing, as were the stand alone shop-in-shop display units. But more of that later. Now fast-forward to early 2010 and the sad demise of the British Horological Federation which had elected to transfer its operations to the British Jewellers’ Association. It was a bittersweet moment for me when I joined the BJA

Storm Pizaz range for 2011

22 The Jeweller March 2011

in August 2010 – on one hand that the UK watch industry had lost an effective voice and on the other a wonderful opportunity for the BJA to pick up where the BHF had left, particularly with the in-house knowledge and passion for the watch industry that exists within the BJA. Although the membership numbers of the BHF had been dwindling, this collection of watch importers, retailers and distributors was in part representative of a significant sector of the UK jewellery market. By estimated 2010 Mintel figures watches accounted for 21 per cent of the total ‘jewellery’ consumer spend (costume jewellery: 12 per cent; fine jewellery: 67 per cent).

SEIKO Ananta Spring Drive MoonPhase being launched at BaselWorld 2011

Work at the BJA has already started to support the best interests of the UK watch industry, starting with promoting the range of applicable services to existing and potential members. Quite simply, the larger the membership, the larger the voice we have to effect change. Perhaps unknown to many members is the work done by the British Jewellery and Giftware and Finishing Federation of which the BJA is part. Representing over 2500 member companies with a collective worth

of £22 billion, the Federation has strong links with the UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) which allows it to offer grants for UK companies wishing to exhibit at the BaselWorld watch and jewellery fair. For the coming show this was worth £1,400 for those companies that met UKTI requirements. Additionally, the BJA has long standing arrangements with the organisers of IJL, the Jewellery Show and Autumn Fair to provide attractive stand space discounts for the membership On the technical front, the BJA has considerable resource in helping member companies with the complexities of Restriction of Hazardous Substances and Registration, Evaluation & Authorisation of Chemicals, with access to lobbyists promoting change in both the UK and European parliaments. Additionally, the BJA sits on the BSI Jewellery and Horology committee which allows member views to be expressed before new standards are imposed. Of current issue is the debate regarding the new nickel regulations. Of additional concern are the issues relating to vendor auditing fatigue and product certification. The next stage in the development of an authorative and effective voice is for the BJA to organise an industry-wide seminar so all voices in the watch industry can be heard and new courses of action be set. I was recently reminded of a conversation with a jewellery retailer bemoaning the fact that many jewellery manufacturers ignore the concept of ‘package’ – the provision of branding, packaging and display material. Those that do are the most successful as they create an identity with the consumer. Let’s now go back to the innovation of Swatch in 1994 and how all watch companies place the marketing of their ranges right at the fore. The maxim of brand first has not failed them. The UK jewellery and watch industries have a lot to learn from each other – the BJA is striving to bring the two closer together.

the

Jeweller picks... VANESSA KANDIYOTI

Introducing a red colourway to her original line Vanessa Kandiyoti’s latest collection of jewellery features the designer’s logo incorporating rubies. There are five collections in the line which includes bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings set in yellow, rose and white gold with sapphires, rubies and diamonds as well as pearls. www.vanessakandiyoti.com

ROYAL SELANGOR

OOZOO

Royal Selangor captures the spirit of favourite fairy tales in its latest collection of keepsakes and gifts. Sculpted in pewter, the pieces in the Fairytales collection range from coin boxes, photo frames and albums, to bookends, a music carousel, trinket boxes, baby mugs and even a bubble blower. All the best-loved classic stories have been immortalised here: The Ugly Duckling, Goldilocks, Jack & The Beanstalk, The Pied Piper of Hamlyn, Tom Thumb, The Princess and the Pea and, of course, Cinderella. Charming in their fun and intricate detail, these are gift pieces that will make treasured keepsakes. www.royalselangor.com

At last month’s Spring Fair the Dutch watch brand launched over 50 new styles into its fun and very affordable collection of fashion timepieces. Among the highlights of the line are colourful silicone styles (including smaller versions for juniors) as well as more low key watches in steel (including a warm rose gold colour) which feature Oozoo’s signature clasps which are reminiscent of divers’ watches. Large dials, leather straps and waterproof to 50m are other features of the steel line. Tel: 01273 275274 or visit: www.oozoowatches.co.uk

LONDON ROAD

Sloane is London Road’s collection of statement cocktail rings in 9ct gold. Reflecting this season’s earth tones, the line offers a choice of cabochon-cut gemstones – pale pink rose quartz, orange/brown rutilated quartz and grey/brown smoky quartz – all in a rub-over setting. Retail prices are from £385. The UK-made London Road contemporary jewellery line is created by brother and sister team Ed and Suzanne Adams, directors of a third generation manufacturer of fine jewellery. www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk

KIT HEATH

Beachcomber is Kit Heath’s take on the bead and charm phenomenon, and as the name suggests, the inspiration comes from the coastline – in particular the British one – and the pastime of collecting pebbles along the shore. Every season brings new lines and for spring there’s a ’50s holiday flavour (think candy floss, deck chairs, polka dots, nautical stripes, beach huts and blue skies). The bright ‘pebbles’ can be thrown together for a colourfully vibrant look, or assembled with sterling silver versions for a more calm and sophisticated feel. There’s even a Union Jack pebble for a Royal Wedding celebration. www.kitheath.com

AZUNI

SIFANI

Created by designer Ashley Marshall the Azuni jewellery collection is handmade using a number of techniques including beading, hand-polishing and wire work for a range that includes everything from cocktail dress pieces to more casual everyday jewellery. These Athena drop earrings are in 24ct gold plate with rose quartz stones. www.azuni.co.uk

SWATCH

Swiss fashion watch brand Swatch’s Lifestyle collection offers a mix of colourful, creative and fashionable accessories, including a broad range of colour-coded and fashionable watches to mix and match. In the the new Lady Collection is a line of bright watches with silicone straps that wrap twice around the wrist – in pastel as well as bright shades. Also in the range is the Irony Big collection – bold watches featuring stainless steel cases and strong, graphic dials, available in classic black, vintage brown and winter white. www.swatch.co.uk

Bold statement cocktail rings continue to be popular – particularly among self-purchasing women – and Sri Lankan jewellery company Sifani has launched Fairytale, a collection with a very individual look. In white gold all the pieces (including pendants) feature coloured gemstones, with some styles incorporating diamonds set in the lattice work over the stone. Prices range from £1,370 RRP. www.sifani.com

PRIVÉ

Privé Jewellery is the product of a family collaboration between sisters Katia and Sonia Gaydamak. Inspired by iconic figures and eras of ‘pure feminine elegance and style, such as Cartier circa 1940’ the intricate pieces comprise pavé set diamonds and coloured stones. This antique look cuff is from the Kiara collection, its curves borrowed from stained glass windows. www.privejewellery.com

UK charm specialist Truth Jewellery unveils a number of new collections including complementary jewellery lines, such as these stackable rings. Also new is range of colourful cord and bead friendship bracelets – a single thread version of coloured cord with sterling silver thread, and a wider width, with sterling silver beads. The new children’s line, Truth Cutie, comprises miniature charms on sterling silver or bright silicon bracelets, as well as necklaces and matching earrings in styles like a Ladybird, Butterfly, Dolphin and Crown. www.truthjewellery.co.uk

ORIT

Designed by Shiri, this black onyx and gold fill lucky charm necklace is from the Cameo collection by Notting Hill-based jewellery company Orit and adds a modern twist to a retro look. A variety of emblems from traditional horseshoes and anchors to plasma screen motifs are included in the line. Also new this season are studded leather-wrap bracelets in a variety of colours. www.oritlondon.com

LOVELINKS BY AARGAARD

TRUTH

Strong organic shapes, beautiful colours, attention to detail and brilliance are the key factors in Aargaard’s 2011 collections and the new Lovelinks line from the Danish jewellery brand highlights all four. Luxury materials like silver, gold-plated silver and gemstones are mixed with leather, Murano glass and crystals for the new bead bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings. www.byaargaard.com

RUBINIA

NOMINATION

Nomination’s Cross collection comprises stainless steel necklaces with faceted cubic zirconia stones, bringing a colourful sparkle to the classic form. The stones come in violet, smoky green, black and clear. Also new this season are additions to the Extension ready-to-wear collection and new interpretation of its classic Butterfly line, including two new sterling silver collections – Cortina and Bellagio – which feature on-trend bracelets, necklaces and earrings. www.nomination.com

LUCAS JACK

Milan-based handmade jewellery brand Rubinia is offering a very different and creative look for the UK market – and is actively seeking UK jewellery retail outlets. ‘Gioielli Secondo Natura’, (meaning ‘Jewels based on nature’) the first collection, consists of gems mounted in natural elements to give jewels shapes that are unrepeatable, as nature intends. Each piece is unique as far as colour, style, cut and features, and strictly handmade by craftsmen. Stones including opal, turquoise, agate and aquamarine seem to ‘grow’ on bases of gold and silver leaf resin, Tagua nut, buffalo horn, ebony and shell. Tel: 01159 881821

Designed by Nick Bartley, the Lucas Jack jewellery collection is defined by its bright colours and bold styling. These Angel earrings in recycled gold and resin are from the Limited Edition collection which was launched at The Jewellery Show last month. www.lucasjack.com

TROLLBEADS

DYRBERG/KERN

Starlight is the new collection for Danish jewellery brand Dyrberg/Kern that incorporates stainless steel (used for the first time) with exclusive cut Swarovski cystal. The streamlined laser cut pieces (rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets) feature myriads of tiny crystals embedded on a band and mounted on steel for a subtly luxurious look. Tel: 0800 1693647 or visit their website at: www.dyrbergkern.com

Visitors to The Jewellery Show last month were able to watch the lamp-working skills of a Trollbeads artisan – and thus gain an insight into how the 14 new glass bead designs launched this year are created – pastel as well as midnight hues being the latest tones. Among the many new launches, the showstoppers proved to be the 18ct gold beads: one depicting a tiny carved flower, butterfly, oak leaves and snowballs; one with spirals and another of mesh. www.trollbeads.co.uk

PH ringing the changes A bumper new catalogue and a website with all the bells and whistles all adds up to a sparkling 2011 at PH Rings, as Belinda Morris discovers. oing business with PH Rings has always been a gratifyingly straightforward and rewarding experience for its retail customers. Not only is there a mind-boggling choice of styles available; a fast turnaround of orders and the service-with-a-smile attitude of the knowledgeable staff, but the company prides itself on offering a flexibility that is so often a prerequisite of the wedding ring market. But there has been no resting on laurels for PH and its continuing evolution that can be seen in the ever-expanding ring collection (5,000 or so different styles at the last count… and counting) is reflected in two important developments for 2011 – a major new product catalogue and an impressive, revamped website. Firstly, and hot off the presses in time for The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair last month is what can only be described as a bumper edition of the PH Rings catalogue. Of course the company has produced them before… but this one is different. “ This is something very new for us,” says Gary Sinclair, who coowns PH Rings with his brother Harvey. “There are 44 pages and 1200 images – it's very comprehensive, representing the best

28 The Jeweller March 2011

of what we have produced over the years, plus some new items.” Truth be told, the catalogue was probably never meant to be quite so big. “It kept growing – in page numbers and size,” says Pauline Brown, who oversaw the tome's production, “and it’s still only the tip of the iceberg in terms of what we have made over the past 45 years – and what is still being made. New pieces have been created since the catalogue was printed.”

“ We brought it out to remind people that we don’t just offer the rings that they see in our smaller, more ad-hoc fliers, but that everything we do and have ever done is available – including all our best sellers,” says Gary. “And we thought it would be easier for retailers to have a one-stop catalogue for all their wedding ring requirements, rather than occasional, fashion-led, flash-in-the-pan leaflets,” adds Harvey. Because there is seemingly no end to the flow of creative juices from PH’s north London workshop – where all the rings are designed and made – the big fat wedding ring book will be supplemented from time to time with mini versions offering new design directions. All of which can also be studied by retailers on PH’s all-singing, all-dancing new website, which went live last month. The company has had an on-line presence for about 10 years, “but we feel this new one is revolutionary,” says Gary, “and it definitely underscores all the choices that we offer our customers.”

Advertorial | Whereas previously PH Rings online allowed the visitor to see the products, choose a pattern and check prices, the reworked version allows for a far-more comprehensive, informative and interactive experience. Once a style has been selected the retailer can then choose the desired profile and width; click on the appropriate currency and opt for either a trade or retail price. The latter is an important element. “This way the retailer can choose their margins; it’s useful for a sales assistant to be able to immediately give a price to a customer rather than having to work it out and in some cases it's not necessary for sales staff to know what the trade prices are,” explains Gary. Once the choices have been made on the site, the retailer can then access all the combinations in terms of carats and colours, without having to retrace their steps and re-enter details. At that point a click will take them to a holding area where they can view their selection and from there log-in again with a new password – for reasons of privacy – to make the order.

“We have had an on-line presence for about 10 years, but we feel this new one is revolutionary, and it definitely underscores all the choices that we offer our customers.” The website will also offer an interactive catalogue allowing each page to be opened and zoomed in on; clicking on the products shown will offer an alternative way for visitors to access the styles they want to order. Users can also search by price – updated as often as necessary – or by a code number from the catalogue. There are profiles of the metals; a wedding ring buying guide and trade or retail price lists that can be downloaded (along with the complete catalogue). Retailers can also look back over their previous orders. It's all very user-friendly. There’s even a virtual tour through the PH Rings premises to show visitors what happens after an order is made; the

processes that take place from sales to creating the ring in the studio. “ We want this to give the shop confidence that we're a proper manufacturer – it’s a rarity in this country,” says Gary. “Everything is made from the beginning, in our premises, in the UK – we’re very proud of that.” Such intensely encompassing web activity might possibly give the impression that the folk back in PH HQ will have less need for phones and order pads. Not a bit of it. “Even though the website is fabulous and is giving choices, it isn't replacing us,” stresses Gary. “I think people will find it useful for doing background research before they call us. We still want to speak to our customers.”

There is, after all, only so much that a website can do. In a market as emotively charged as the wedding ring one, there is no replacement for well-informed guidance and, of course, the reassuring “of course you can have it by Saturday – what time is the wedding?” telephone conversation. “ Ours is a very deadline-orientated business,” says Harvey. “If something is needed tomorrow, we will make sure it is there by tomorrow. Once a dispatch date is fixed we always honour it. It’s very important to get these things right.” The new catalogue and website are just making it a little easier to do just that. For more information contact PH Rings on tel: 020 8203 1919

The Voice of the Industry 29

| Ethical Jeweller

Guide to environmentally friendly packaging Ethical jewellery designer Ute Decker offers some practical advice and a few recommended suppliers. ccording to Ledbury Research, a consultancy that studies trends among wealthy consumers, “Paying attention to corporate social responsibility issues makes good sense ethically and commercially, and is something that the jewellery sector will not be able to ignore.” When it comes to specific actions, packaging has been topping the list for a long time as one of the simplest policies to implement. Today, consumers seem to expect designers and retailers to take responsibility for these issues. Thoughtful packaging reinforces your brand value and tells a lot about the care and attention with which you look after your business. We have come a long way, and today ecoconscious jewellery packaging can be as beautiful and functional as conventional packaging without costing the earth – literally and figuratively. But what exactly is eco-friendly packaging? The concepts of reducing, reusing and recycling are the guiding principles to ensure the packaging produced has the least possible impact on the environment. And for the packaging we do use, it should be both recycled as well as recyclable. You can ensure this by specifying three simple criteria: Firstly, your packaging can save trees. Opt for boxes made with a high content of recycled post-consumer waste. The Forest Stewardship Council-approved seal looks good, but it still usually means fresh trees were cut down for

The Box Office

your jewellery boxes. FSC confirms that your paper was sourced from a sustainable and well-managed forest. But recycled paper containing 100 per cent post-consumer waste still makes for a sounder choice. Secondly, avoid laminated surfaces as well as foil lettering. This can render a product unrecyclable and non-biodegradable and the lamination process emits high levels of volatile organic compounds. Foil blockings are polyester film coatings – many containing toxic chemicals and heavy metals – and may make your product unrecyclable as it doesn't break down in the de-inking process. This means that your packaging will add to the tons of waste ending up without further use in landfills.

Thoughtful packaging reinforces your brand value and tells a lot about the care and attention with which you look after your business. And thirdly, opt for inks that are vegetable based. These can be just as stunning as the conventional petroleum-oil based or metallic inks which are both associated with worker and environmental health hazards. The latter is still a weak point even with the many packaging companies offering ecofriendly options. Finding such companies can still be time consuming, but below I have selected some examples.

Eco-friendly packaging suppliers One of the pioneers of eco-friendly jewellery packaging is the Tiny Box Company, which came into being through the Dragon’s Den TV show after its business idea of offering recycled jewellery packaging won the judges’ vote. In 2010 they were awarded the Small Business Recycler of the year. The boxes are

30 The Jeweller March 2011

Tiny Box

beautifully made while the bags could be just a little sturdier. This company also offers many ecofriendly ancillary packaging items such as 100 per cent recycled acid-free tissue paper, a range of recycled bows as well as acetate ribbon made from wood pulp. There are no minimum quantities and the online shop makes ordering extremely easy. Printing services are also offered including probably the most eco-friendly of all ‘blind debossing’ and ‘blind embossing’ where the logo is imprinted or raised without any ink at all yet producing a very distinguished look and feel (www.tinyboxcompany.co.uk). Another company is The Box Office based in Dorset. A wide selection of gift boxes, presentation boxes and folding boxes are available, all made from recycled card and 100 per cent recyclable (www.box-office.org.uk). Boxperfect manufacture all of its products here in the UK, thus keeping the carbon footprint low. Its presentation boxes are made from board containing at least 95 per cent of recycled materials. And the in-house design team can produce samples and mockups for your approval (www.boxperfect.com). Going even further with customisation, the Green Bag & Box Company offers a bespoke gift jewellery box service. With its customised design facilities you can change the shape, colour, size and style of your boxes which are made from 100 per cent recycled materials (www.greenbagandbox.com). Your packaging can save trees and reduce your ecological foot print – our environment will appreciate it and if well communicated so will your customers and your brand. For further information, fact sheets and suppliers relating to ethical jewellery, visit: www.utedecker.com/ethical_jewellery.html

Elle Time

Show of STRENGTH

the year. The Christmas snow didn’t help anyone, but “overall… trading was positive,” says GfK’s senior account manager Jonathan Hedges. “Retailers have reported mixed results but typically those with strong performances in 2009 have continued to trade strongly in 2010,” says Paul Harry, sales and marketing director of Peers Hardy. “The watch market is reported to be increasing in value and demand remains strong provided that distributors work with retailers to keep the offering fresh,” he adds. And I rather like this quote (dating back to 2009) from Mondaine’s CEO André Bernheim: “we’ve given it some consideration but we have decided not to participate in the recession.” Happily he was proved right as in the UK at least, sales increased by 70 per cent in 2010. “2011 will be a challenging year, but we do expect continued growth for the brand,” says Derek Salter, UK brand director of Mondaine. And it is hoped, even expected, that BaselWorld will reflect this buoyancy. Having lost a number of exhibitors – and visitors – to the recession, this year the show is being particularly bullish, having invested millions of Swiss Francs in extensions and revamps to give the brands more space to showcase collections (and show off with ever-more extravagant stands). Around 2000 exhibitors will be present – which by anyone’s standards makes for a big strong fair. And 100,000 plus visitors from around the world are expected – which is a lot of people. “If you want to be taken seriously as a luxury brand in an international market, then we feel it is very important to be at this fair,” says Pernille Møbjerg, PR at Danish jewellery brand Ole Lynggaard. “Anyone who is anyone

What is there to say about BaselWorld that hasn’t been said before? It’s big; it’s the must-see and must-be-seen-in show of the year; it’s nearly here. So, asks Belinda Morris, is the market ready for it? ust how much the watch and jewellery industries have picked themselves up after the financial crisis, depends to some extent who you ask. The two most repeated words are ‘improving’ and ‘challenging’ as you might expect… and both nicely understated. No-one wants to be pessimistic during a major buying season; and super confident might smack of cockiness.

32 The Jeweller March 2011

Nevertheless, there are a few figures to back up a sense of cautious optimism. For instance the total UK watch market in 2010, according to international market researcher GfK, was worth £912.1m – with multiple jewellers for instance seeing a growth of 4.9 per cent on 2009, and the sales of watches over £1500 increasing in share from 31 to 39 per cent in the last three months of

Janetti

BaselWorld Preview |

Ted Baker

is at the fair in some capacity,” says Paul Harry. “The number of visitors gives an indication of the state of trade and high end brands tend to take orders at the show – the level of business written surely indicates performance and confidence.” While it might be argued that a show like BaselWorld is a mega PR exercise for many of the big brands, it’s also a time for doing serious business. “Retailers certainly place orders at Basel – they make up 25 to 40 per cent of our year’s business,” says Mark Sutcliffe, MD of Maurice Lacroix UK. “The show is the most important indicator

“I expect the 2011 show to be a more aggressive and optimistic event in comparison to the last few years and I expect the 2011 selling season to be as well.” of retailers’ desire to purchase product for the year ahead and in particular [shows] their endorsement of new products. Most high quality retailers reserve a large proportion of their budget for BaselWorld purchasing.” That the show is a reasonable indicator of how the trade is faring is not in question. “Each year Basel gives us a solid barometer of the year ahead,” says Oakley’s Chris Petrillo, category manager of watches and 3D optics. “Not only in the amount of orders written, but the more subtle cues of models released, pricing trends, buyer attendance and aggressive versus passive buying attitudes.

I expect the 2011 show to be a more aggressive and optimistic event in comparison to the last few years and I expect the 2011 selling season to be as well.” Jason Newman, international sales manager at Festina watches is equally upbeat about the year ahead. “We grew during 2010 in Spain, our home market – which in itself is impressive as the economy has suffered greatly – as well as expanding internationally,’ he explains. “I believe 2011 will be challenging, but I also believe that we will grow. Distributing in the UK [through Unique Jewelry] will be a major project for us this year. I think the UK market has a need for a new quality brand

Trend-spotting at BaselWorld Since trend-spotting is an important pre-occupation at the show, here are a few to watch out for: • colourful watches (plastic, metal and leather) • watches of mixed materials • old and new styling details together • materials like titanium, aluminium and ballistic nylon • military inspirations for watch details • a focus on ladies’ watches • functional and classic designs with a paring back of details • colourful and unusual statement jewellery • rose gold jewellery • unusual colours for pearls • multi-row necklaces • a resurgence for ultra-feminine jewellery with stones • cocktail rings • beads and charms (still!) with a value-for-money product concept. Basel will be a clear indicator of what the rest of the year will bring.” “It is always encouraging to see so many retailers visiting as well as manufacturers investing in an exhibition space at BaselWorld,” adds Philip Woolkind UK head of timepieces at Casio. “It shows that people in the industry are positive about the future. It is the largest and most influential fair within the industry and enables retailers and manufacturers to see what is happening and what the latest trends are.”

Just J

On that score, reporting on trends ahead of the event is a tricky business. Most of the major brands – whether watch or jewellery – are famously secretive when it comes to revealing new styles before the grand unveiling. Euro Pearls, like most, is not giving too much away, but will say that it is continuing to adapt to ‘the changing market conditions with lower priced articles’ and will be launching a new silver collection as well as a more commercial nine and 18 carat jewellery line with Akoya and freshwater pearls with strands to match.

BCBG MAXAZRIA

The Voice of the Industry 33

| BaselWorld Preview

G-Shock Premium The new luxury G-Shock Premium collection features innovative design, created and engineered to the triple 10 concept: 10 Bar Water resistance, 10 year battery life, and able to withstand a 10 metre drop. The watches offer optimum strength and rigidity, the parts assembled and sealed to protect the intricate interior against damage. The metal alloys are heat treated and sealed to protect up to 20 Bar. Smart, tough solar movements correct themselves when displaced by severe impact. The range also comprises luxury watches for women (called G-ms). Feminine and elegant pieces featuring metal casings and bracelet straps combine durability and style. Tel: 020 8450 9131

Ice-Watch

Not just a watch – also a fashion accessory and there’s every colour there, from fluorescent neon to military khaki and everything in-between. ‘Classic’ features bright faces and transparent bracelet; ‘Silicon’ has a face and silicon bracelet in all the colours of the rainbow. Or there’s the glitzy rose gold and stone set ‘Silicon’. For the really butch and bold, there’s the massive XXL, with a 53mm face. Also available in Unisex and Small, Ice-Watch watches are presented in a box matching the colour, feel, and finish of the timepiece. www.ice-watch.com

Zenith Zenith’s Captain line, first introduced in 1952, now has three new models, inspired by the originals: Grand Date Moonphase, Dual Time and Power Reserve. Technique, chronometric performance and aesthetics are all incorporated to achieve the historic allusion, but with contemporary watchmaking developments included – such as the large case and Elite calibers. The manufactured movements are visible through a sapphire case back. www.zenith-watches.com

Accurist

Following the success of the Charmed collection, launched last year, Accurist has extended the collection of its beaded watches to include new colours and details. ‘Shimmer’ shown here features gold-coloured details for a light, spring-like look, while ‘Purple Rain’ includes more richly-coloured beads. Both watches have mother of pearl dials with Swarovski crystals set on the bezels. www.accurist.co.uk

34 The Jeweller March 2011

Maurice Lacroix

Last year, Maurice Lacroix created a stir by developing a square wheel mechanism – the first in watchmaking history. This year, its Roue Carrée offers a fresh angle on the passage of time, by focusing on the seconds display. As the gear profiles of non-circular wheels cannot, by definition, be regular, the principal challenge was to define the shape of the teeth in order to ensure constant power transfer. The result is a rhythmic movement and a dynamic visual effect (enhanced by almost glowing indicators against a black or rhodium finished ground). www.mauricelacroix.com

Invest in love!

Baselworld, First Avenue Europe麓s longest established manufacturer presents the latest collection of individually handcrafted wedding bands and eternity rings at Baselworld from 24.3. - 31.3.2011, Hall 2.2, First Avenue, Stand B80. For more information please visit www.furrer-jacot.com or contact us on tel: 0041 52 633 07 33 Furrer-Jacot AG 路8200 Schaffhausen 路Switzerland

| BaselWorld Preview

Edox For the launch of its new Limited Edition Iceman I, Edox has become the watchmaker partner of free diving multi-record-holder Christian Redl of Austria. Available in a limited edition of 700 pieces the watch is water-resistant to 1000 metres, with black PVD coating, a rotating black ceramic bezel, a rubber strap and an automatic movement. The timepiece succeeds the first Ice Shark. The characteristics of the new beast are identical to the first version’s: technical performance, durability, strength and magnetism. www.edox.ch

Ole Lynggaard

Ingersoll

Elle Time

As a tribute to the first licensed character watch – Mickey Mouse of course – which was made by Ingersoll in 1933, the watch brand is launching the Disney Project which will see the return of that iconic model. There are two lines: the ’30s Collection which is a faithful recreation of that first watch (but using modern materials such as stainless steel) and Disney Classic which will see a range of models inspired by the styles worn in the ’50s through to the ’70s. Both collections are targeted at adults. For further details contact Zeon Ltd on tel: 020 8208 1833

Designed to reflect the spirit of international fashion authority, Elle magazine, the Elle Time collection of watches takes its inspiration from the major trends of the moment and couples them with craftsmanship and elegance. The key themes of the collection are Active, Futuristic and Style, with all the timepieces using Swiss or Japanese movements, along with stainless steel, leather and other high quality materials. Enquiries can be addressed to Jonathan Crocker, independent consultant to the brand. jonathan@elle-time.com

See image on P32

Jewellery designer Charlotte Lynggaard has created Sweet Drops™, a luxurious bracelet, handmade in Denmark in exclusive calf skin, with changeable Sweet Drops™, handcrafted in the studio in Copenhagen. The versatile line offers a wide range of complementary and individual combinations of the bracelet as well as using the drops on this ‘design string’ necklace. www.olelynggaard.dk

Victor Mayer Based in the ‘gold city’ of Pforzheim, Victor Mayer has been renowned for its quality and craftsmanship since 1890. At Baselworld this year the company will be unveiling a new collection of gemset jewellery including this 18ct yellow and white gold ring incorporating black fire enamel, diamonds and rubelite. The line also includes pendants. www.victor-mayer.com

36 The Jeweller March 2011

Furrer Jacot One of Furrer Jacot’s highlights of 2011 is its new engagement ring collection – Les Glamoureux – the centrepiece of which is a solitaire engagement ring with up to a three carat diamond in an open pronged setting with diamonds mounted in pave, set on the ring and the prongs. www.furrer-jacot.ch

FOLLOW YOUR CONVICTIONS “MY DECISION TO GO PRO AT 17 WAS CONTROVERSIAL. THAT IS, UNTIL I BECAME EUROPEAN NO.1” Justin Rose, Professional Golfer

In 1998, Justin Rose stayed true to his beliefs, joining the European Tour against all the odds at just 17 years old. At Maurice Lacroix, we create our unique movements and award-winning designs by hand – because, like Justin, we too follow our convictions. For more information visit www.MauriceLacroix.com

To stock Maurice Lacroix call 00800 777 00888

Les Classiques Phases de Lune

| BaselWorld Preview

Cuervo y Sobrinos Euro Pearls Pearls selected for their individual beauty and character are transformed into intricately designed pieces of jewellery in the Yoko collection by Euro Pearls. For these earrings 17mm gem quality South Sea baroque pearls have been crafted into 18ct white gold with 156 diamonds, totalling 3.65ct. www.euro-pearls.com

Combining Latin feeling with state-of-the-art Swiss Watch technology Cuervo y Sobrinos introduces the new Historiador Cronógrafo family. Inspired from its original design from the ‘50s, it is a classic and timeless watch but at the same time has a very distinctive design underlined by the characteristic lugs. There are two versions: the steel chronograph and the gold chronograph, the latter having a hand-winding vintage Venus movement and limited to five pieces globally. Tel: 0116 234 4656

Festina Already a major watch brand in Europe, Festina is new to the UK and will be launched by Unique jewelry at BaselWorld this year. The brand has strong associations with sport – cycling in particular, being the sponsor of the Tour de France – but is also known for its competitive prices aligned to a fresh, dynamic look. The company will unveil new models at the show to complement last year’s Chrono Bike and Ceramic timepieces. www.uniquejewelry.co.uk

Need to know: Dates: Thursday 24th March - Thursday 31st March Venue: Messe Basel Information: www.baselworld.com

MeisterSinger MeisterSinger, the German, Swiss-made watch brand, renown for its single-hand watches, is launching the strikingly simple NEO collection. Reminiscent of the 1950s, the avant garde design includes sunburst dials in five colours, choice of Crocoprint leather strap or fine steel mesh bracelet in keeping with the time-line of the watch. For men and women, case sizes are 36mm. Other highlights to be shown at Basel include the Perigraph whose unique feature is the delicate date ring. The needle-like single-hand, the preceding zero on the single digit hours and the five minute markers give balance to the dial. Tel: 01923 771188

38 The Jeweller March 2011

Kenneth Cole US designer Kenneth Cole New York has launched his new touchscreen watch series. This innovative feature should inspire a new generation of consumers already passionate about touch screen technology available on smartphones and music players. The collection mixes traditional and fashion-tech features in a modern sleek design and maintains the brand’s signature, classic look with a stainless steel case paired with a black, white, or orange silicon strap. The watch functionality includes 32-City world time and an alarm, stopwatch and light up screen. www.peershardy.co.uk

Domino Returning to BaselWorld after a six year break, Domino is aiming to demonstrate that it has ‘undergone something of a renaissance’ having strengthened its in-house design and new product development capabilities, as well as having expanded its core ranges. Lines will include all types of rings, earrings, necklaces and pendants in both classic and more contemporary designs. The vast majority of pieces are available from stock in many different stone sizes and shapes and in a full range of alloys including all colours and carats of gold and platinum. www.dominojewellery.co.uk

Luminox

Luminox, creator of the Always Visible, selfpowered illuminated watch, is adding to its line of Blackout timepieces with the new Colormark 3150, in black steel. Renowned for its continual visibility in any conditions, the new watch remains luminous 24/7 for up to 25 years, thanks to the Luminox Light Technology system. The hands and hour markers on the dial glow blue when in the dark and are continuously powered by micro-size gas-filled, glass tubes, which are applied by hand. www.luminox.com

Links of London Links is introducing bold, bright colour watches with rubber bracelets in aqua, pink and purple this year. There are several correlations between its watches and jewellery – the trend for friendship bracelets is not subsiding and it has expanded its woven offer with new colours with an emphasis on bright and metallic threads. Men’s watch designs are sleek and sporty and Links now offers its first men’s Sports watch ‘The Chicane’. www.linksoflondon.com

Junghans

Gc The Swiss-made Gc Sport Classic XL-S Glam is the first all ceramic model launched by Gc – with both bracelet and case in hi-tech ceramic. Also available in a black version the bezel features rose gold and crystal inserts to highlight the high-fashion, feminine, glitzy appeal. www.gcwatches.com

This year the renowned German watch brand Junghans celebrates its 150th anniversary and will mark the occasion with limited edition models which, in terms of design and function, pick up and reinterpret important stages and designs in its long history. The Meister Chronoscope with the automatic calibre J880.1 will be limited to 1,500 copies, while the Meister Chronometer is restricted to 150 pieces. Also in the line will be the new series ‘Force’ which harks back to the radio solar watches popular in the 1990s. www.junghans.de

The Voice of the Industry 39

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40 The Jeweller March 2011

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Legal Jeweller |

Changes are afoot – a heads-up for employers Employment lawyer Barry Stanton of Boyes Turner looks at some of this year’s key changes that employers need to be aware of and prepare for. n my recent forays into jewellers over the past year the four Cs have always been very important, but this year it’s the Big E for Equality that will need to reign supreme.

Changes to Retirement Age The biggest cultural change will come with the abolition of the Default Retirement Age on 1st October 2011. The impact of this change will be felt much sooner though as all employers need to begin preparing now for the forthcoming reforms. On 1st October, an employer who wishes to retire an employee will need to objectively justify the retirement or, if they have selected an Employer Justified Retirement Age demonstrate that the selected age is a proportionate means of achieving a legitimate aim. Neither is likely to be particularly easy and for small employers, arguments about workforce planning and career progression may hold little rate with a tribunal. Employers will have to become much more accustomed to discussing with their employees their career/life plans at an earlier stage. Leaving it until the weeks and months immediately prior to a proposed ‘retirement’ will be a recipe for disaster. However, all is not currently lost. For those who have employees who will reach 65

or reach an agreed retirement age before 1st October 2011, or who are over 65 but do not have an intended retirement date, the current procedures can still be utilised if the ‘Notice to Request’ to work beyond 65 is given before 1st April 2011. If that notice is given then employees can be retired with little risk.

Employers can also be liable for the criminal offence of failing to prevent bribery unless they have in place ‘adequate procedures’ to prevent it. Issues surrounding age discrimination are likely to become more important and high profile given the recent publicity surrounding ageism and TV presenters. While such cases may be seen as one-offs and not relevant to ‘normal’ working places, they demonstrate the difficulties employers face in defending such claims if they do not have transparent procedures.

Changes to Paternity Leave Changes to paternity leave will come into effect for all those with expected childbirth

or adoption on or after 3rd April 2011. They will be entitled to additional paternity leave, which will allow employee fathers a right to take up to six months’ extra leave once the mother has returned to work after 20 weeks. If the leave is taken during part of the period when the mother is entitled to statutory maternity pay, then the leave is paid in the same way as maternity leave (up to 90 per cent of earnings up to the prevailing rate of SMP). Employees wishing to take this leave will only have to give eight weeks’ notice. This poses potential problems for small employers who may lose experienced staff at relatively short notice. The Government proposes to go further in 2015 with mothers and fathers being able to share their leave as they see fit. Quite how these provisions will work is not yet clear but proposals can be expected later this year. Equality issues will, it seems, become more important with each passing year. For those who have not put in place robust and transparent procedures, now is a good time to begin.

The Bribery Act Stepping outside the equality arena the other major change affecting all businesses is the Bribery Act. The Act introduces the criminal offences of bribing and accepting a bribe. In addition, employers can also be liable for the criminal offence of failing to prevent bribery unless they have in place ‘adequate procedures’ to prevent it. Again, employers will need to train their staff to deal with and avoid bribery.

Conclusion What is clear from all of this is that employers must have clear and transparent procedures in place to deal with a wide variety of issues to protect their businesses and ensure that staff are trained to deal with these issues fairly and appropriately. Advice offered here is for general guidance only and is not a substitute for taking specific legal advice on an individual basis. You can contact Barry Stanton at Boyes Turner on telephone: 0118 952 7288, email him at: bstanton@boyesturner.com or visit their website: www.boyesturner.com for further information.

The Voice of the Industry 41

| NAG Round Table

Making a success of succession Last December we ran a feature that looked at the question of retirement and the subject of succession planning was touched upon. It’s an issue that is of vital importance to our industry – or at least it should be. But could it be that many jewellers are consigning the tricky business of passing on the business to the back burner? he landscape has changed recently – the safety net of state pension is receding; private pensions have not performed well; and there is an expectation that people will work into later life. Young people are now sceptical about the value of higher education when set against the cost of attaining it. So it is interesting to revisit a question that the NAG asked of members many years ago: ‘what’s your exit strategy?’ It seems that the answer now is less ‘how do I exit’ and more ‘how do I pass it on’, as young people become more interested in the practical challenges of running a business that might become their long-term career. But more research was required, which is why in late 2010 the NAG conducted a snap online survey directed at about 900 email addresses. The results were interesting and are reflected below. We followed this up with a round table discussion and presentation last month, which confirmed some of our survey findings and prompted further areas of possible research.

Survey results Around three per cent of those surveyed answered our ten questions, and we found that those who responded were almost equally split between those that had a senior management succession plan in place (55.2 per cent) and those that didn’t (44.8 per cent). Of those that didn’t have a plan in place only one said this was due to apathy, the rest had a variety of reasons which illustrated that they were daunted by the perceived complexity of the task. Of those that had started the process, a sizeable

42 The Jeweller March 2011

number (44%) said that they were planning for the succession of a family member. Interestingly the hopes of the ‘baby boomer’ generation to retire early were not reflected in the responses, with the average age for ‘handover’ coming out as 68. Nobody expected to retire in their fifties, but the relatively small size of the sample meant that the one or two who wanted to work ‘til they drop’ probably pushed the average up. I would hazard a guess that the one person who declared a desire to carry on until 95 was really hoping for longevity rather than interminable work. Most respondents felt that a clean financial break was required upon handing over their business, with the majority (62 per cent) giving an unequivocal ‘yes’ to the question ‘will you transfer majority ownership and management control of the business?’ However, asked the question, ‘at handover Mike McGraw

will you exit the business completely’ only 16 per cent said ‘yes’, while 84 per cent said ‘no’! This, and some free text responses to later questions lead us to believe that it would be difficult for some to break the bonds of a business that in some cases had been a life’s work; and there was believed to be a premium attached to their wealth of experience. It was equally unclear when planning for succession should start, and answers were evenly split between a six to 10 years, four to six years, or two to four years window. Again respondents were almost equally split between those that have or will have a formal transition plan in place (52 per cent) and those who will not (48 per cent). The majority (61.9 per cent) however agreed that if a family member were to succeed, it would be desirable for them to spend time outside the business prior to taking over.

Key points to successful succession Prior to the round table discussion, business consultant Mike McGraw of Development Initiatives gave a presentation outlining the steps to take to achieve a seamless and appropriate change of management. The first of which is timing: sooner rather than later is when succession should be thought about, bearing in mind that it will take a minimum of two years to implement. And in the case of families, things can take a lot longer as emotions and jealousies can often intrude. He also reminded attendees of the legal considerations, which will take into account everything from shareholdings, wills and promises to the implications of whether a

NAG Round Table | business is a partnership, sole trader etc. What, for instance, will be passed on and will the current owner relinquish total or partial control? McGraw also emphasised the importance of continually understanding what a business is worth and on what basis it is valued. A crisp, clean balance sheet is essential when it comes to passing it on – especially if a management buy-out (MBO) team is concerned, as the team will have to raise the finance based on this.

Issues under discussion The presentation led to a discussion that prompted a number of considerations: • There is much work to be done in better understanding the ‘levers’ which influence business performance, and the key performance indicators. • Relatively minor adjustments to sales levels, margins, and costs could result in a much better return on assets, and implementing these over the period of the succession plan would greatly enhance the attractiveness of the business proposition for a potential buyer. • Management development programmes are the key to a successful handover, whether to a family member or

Some free text responses to later questions lead us to believe that it would be difficult for some to break the bonds of a business that in some cases had been a life’s work… MBO team, and should be planned and implemented as early as possible. • It was noted that early dialogue with all parties was advisable and that there were complex personnel issues to overcome, not least because the abolition of the default retirement age would make it more difficult to move older workers on, thus blocking the career path to succession. • There was some lack of knowledge of potential options, be they outright sale, MBO, transition to a family member, or conversion to other models, including co-operative enterprises. • It was noted that there were emotional, lifestyle, and status issues to be considered as well financial implications.

• The meeting concurred with the view that external experience in another business was desirable for family members being groomed for succession. • Professional advice was required in the specialist valuations for jewellery businesses, particularly in the areas of stock and goodwill. • Fact sheets listing professional advisors that may be involved in a sale or transition would be helpful as would a checklist of questions that could or should be asked and the potential answers. • Participants required professional advice on their tax position; investing the capital proceeds of a sale and deriving an income from their business in retirement. It was clear that all those who attended the meeting found the subject to be absorbing, far more involved than they had imagined and certainly food for further thought. It’s a topic that the NAG and The Jeweller may revisit later in the year, but in the meantime, if you have any queries or comments that you would like to pass on, please send an email to: feedback@jewellers-online.org

Succession Planning Survey sent to NAG members (29 respondents) Do you have any plans in place for your business’s senior management succession?

Do/will you have a formal transition plan?

How soon do you think you should plan for succession before the changes take place?

Yes: 55.2%

Yes: 52%

6-10 years: 25% 2-4 years: 25%

No: 44.8%

If a family member succeeds, will they spend time outside the business prior to taking over?

Yes: 61.9%

No 38.1%

No: 48 %

At handover will you exit the business completely?

Yes: 16%

No: 84%

4-6 years: 25% Other: 25%

Some respondee comments “By far the majority of our business is commissions, so it is crucial that this side of the business is able to continue in some way, for it to survive… it always used to be just me so this an unknown area.” “I would like to keep an interest in the business – I have no hobbies, so would come in a couple days a week”

The Voice of the Industry 43

| Security Update Alan Townsend delivers his lecture at The Jewellery Show

Turning the tables Crime against jewellers is as rife as ever, but the industry is fighting back. Michael Hoare reports on a major success. about and how T H March and the NAG came up with their ‘beautifully simple crime initiative’, to quote Alan’s own words. He should know, because his expertise and contacts have been called into play on numerous anti crime initiatives since leaving the force.

wo old friends of the NAG were much in evidence at The Jewellery Show this year. Ian Kirke of Training for Success, who will be known to many Council members because of his two previous appearances before them, was there to introduce a new online intelligence portal, where short video clips are available showing some of the tricks of the robbers’ trade. The difference here is that the TFS product features ex-offenders explaining and demonstrating how they made their illegal living. The clips, which are presented in a ‘low budget’ accessible format reminiscent of YouTube videos, not only explain offenders’ techniques but give an insight into their attitudes and state of mind when they commit criminal acts. The clips which can be viewed at:

Serial raiders tagged A recent episode of the BBC Crime Watch series amply demonstrated how evidence provided by a forensic solution sprayed onto a gun during an armed robbery helped Hampshire Constabulary to convict three serial robbers. Elliot Burton, Luke Nash and Simon Waller were convicted for their roles in a string of armed robberies committed against jewellers around the country over a two year period. Among the gang’s targets were jewellery shops in Birmingham, Chester, Cheltenham, Harrogate and St Albans as well as NAG Member Jeremy France Jewellers in Winchester. Property stolen during the robberies was estimated to be worth in the region of £2million.

It is clear that these and other technologies with similar properties are going to play an increasingly important role in providing robust forensic evidence which has now been upheld in court on numerous occasions. www.tfsuccess.com/consultancy/online_ intel_portal.html with accompanying learning materials, are available via different subscription packages, appropriate to the needs of retail businesses of all sizes. They represent a first class way of alerting staff to criminal activity and can be used as part of regular briefing sessions. Similarly, the now hopefully familiar alerts from SaferGems (www.safergems.org.uk) can be used during staff training to highlight suspects and criminal methods, and Alan Townsend an ex-MPS Flying Squad officer was on hand to explain what they are all

44 The Jeweller March 2011

The group made a decisive error when they attempted a second robbery at Jeremy France Jewellers, as the store had opted to install a ‘SmartWater’ Spray System following the first attack. This mistake would ultimately lead to their conviction. As the trio entered the store wearing balaclavas and wielding a handgun, shop staff immediately activated the intruder alarm system. As a result the three offenders left the store empty handed with all three passing under the spray, tagging them in a chemically coded forensic liquid, and linking them with the crime scene.

Five months after the aborted robbery, the three men were arrested at separate addresses in the Birmingham area. Their premises were fully searched and a handgun was recovered at one of the suspects’ addresses. Upon inspection under a UV light, traces of the tagging agent were clearly visible and forensic analysis of samples traced the gun back to the Winchester robbery. Elliot Burton was convicted of taking part in nine raids, while Luke Nash was found guilty of conspiracy to rob; acquiring criminal property; money laundering and possessing an imitation firearm at the time of committing an offence. Simon Waller pleaded guilty at an earlier hearing to a number of robberies committed over an 18 month period. The three men were given a combined sentence of 28 years in jail. While it is not the NAG’s role to recommend any particular product it is clear that these and other technologies with similar properties are going to play an increasingly important role in providing robust forensic evidence which has now been upheld in court on numerous occasions.

Monthly roundup During January 2011 alone SaferGems has recorded in excess of 50 incidents of crime where goods with a value of more than £300,000 have been stolen from jewellers, antique dealers or pawnbrokers across the UK. The South East and Midlands regions remain ‘Hot-Spot’ areas for the majority of robberies, smash and grabs and commercial burglaries. The number of participants grows, with the Jewellery Distributors Association having committed to the initiative, and the British Jewellers Association about to undertake a trial period with the scheme.

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The Voice of the Industry 45

| BJA Feature

AMBER forever ...

The rich, honey tones of amber have made it a much-coveted jewel since ancient times, but a plethora of look-alike products are making it difficult to ensure you have the real thing. Mary Brittain spoke to some BJA members, all of whom supply the genuine article, to discover the facts. “ ’m a trained gemmologist and I’ve been in the trade for 36 years but I was recently taken in by a necklace which I saw for sale in the West Indies,” says Roger Wood, managing director of the gemstone company, Ruppenthal UK. Wood was so intrigued by the necklace that he bought it – at what would have been an extremely cheap price had it been amber – and brought it back to the UK to test. “It was in fact made of a new plastic that is apparently coming from China, but I am frankly gobsmacked by how good it looks. They really have got it down to a fine art,” he says. So what exactly is amber and how can those less experienced than Roger Wood detect whether or not they have the real thing? Natural amber is the fossilised resin of two types of ancient pine tree, now largely extinct. As the resin oozed out of the trees many millions of years ago it sometimes covered

small insects and creatures, trapping them within as it hardened gradually. These trapped creatures, together with small pieces of local flora, are characteristic of amber. Indeed amber that includes rare, often extinct varieties, is much sought after by enthusiasts and can command high prices. Amber was of great significance to many ancient civilisations and there are numerous myths and legends surrounding it, all of which add to its charm. It was also considered to contain magical and healing powers and was often worn to ward off evil. Ground into a powder it was a remedy for everything from asthma to the Black Death. Even today Polish herbalists sell amber paste to alleviate rheumatic pains and many people throughout Europe believe that wearing amber is medically beneficial. Over the years amber has been found in deposits worldwide and varies in colour depending on where and when it was found. Chinese, Burmese, Lebanese, Sicilian and

An insect inclusion in amber – Ruppenthal UK

46 The Jeweller March 2011

Amber pendant by Goldmajor. RRP: £75 £125. www.goldmajor.com

Mexican ambers range from very clear to almost black. Today most of the finest amber comes from the Baltic Sea area and this amber, in its untreated state, varies in colour from lemon yellow, through orange to dark brown. It can be cloudy or clear. Modern supplies also come from Latvia and Lithuania and increasingly from Kaliningrad although most amber is still cut and polished in Poland. The definition of Baltic Amber, as laid down by the Polish-based International Amber Association (www.amber.org.pl) provides a useful guide and identifies four distinct types: Natural Baltic amber (Succinite) which has undergone mechanical treatment only (for instance: grinding, cutting, turning or polishing) without any change to its natural properties. Modified Baltic amber (Succinite) – subjected only to thermal or high-pressure treatment, which changed its physical properties, including the degree of transparency and colour, or shaped under similar conditions out of one nugget, previously cut to the required size. Reconstructed (pressed) Baltic amber (Succinite) – gemstone made of Baltic amber pieces pressed in high temperature and under high pressure without additional components. Bonded Baltic amber (Succinite) – consisting of two or more parts of natural, modified or reconstructed Baltic amber bonded together with the use of the smallest possible amount of a colourless binding agent necessary to join the pieces.

BJA Feature | For those in doubt about the veracity of their amber there are various self-administered tests which can be used, although none is 100 per cent reliable.

Hand carved amber beads from Ruppenthal UK, £95 to £270 + VAT (trade)

Clearly the more ‘natural’ the amber the higher the price it will command. Indeed prices have already risen considerably in recent years, and in what is ultimately a finite market look set to rise further – so much so that some suppliers, such as Mayanna, now consider it to be precious enough to merit setting in 18ct gold. So how can you spot whether or not your amber is the real thing? Well, as Bob Rontaler of Goldmajor, which is one of just two British companies to belong to The Amber Association, explains, Baltic amber commonly has ‘sunspangles’ or circular inclusions that look like flecks of light within it. It also occasionally contains hairs from the flowers of oak trees and more rarely an ancient insect. Rontaler, who has been importing amber into the UK for the past twenty five years, is hugely knowledgeable and his company’s website (www.goldmajor.com) is a treasure trove of information for anyone wanting to know more about this fascinating material. Over the years many substances have been used to fake amber. Old Victorian and Edwardian ‘amber’ necklaces – which are frequently quite red in colour – were often Natural Baltic amber set in silver by Mayanna. RRP: £40 - £150. www.mayanna.com

www.ruppenthal.co.uk

made from Bakelite or phenolic resin and these are now much sought after by collectors. Copal, which is sometimes called ‘Rain Forest Amber’ is a modern substance that is sold as amber. This comes mainly from East Africa, Colombia and New Zealand where it is called Kauri Kauri Gum. Like amber, copal is indeed a tree resin, but it is immature and many thousands of years younger than amber. It is also paler and has more inclusions. Unlike true fossil amber, copal will craze deeply on the surface after a few years wear, when the volatiles (turpenes) from the original resin evaporate; nor is it as hard as the real thing. As the gemmologist, lecturer and writer, Maggie Cambell Pederson explains, some of the so called ‘green amber’, which is currently popular, is in fact copal from Colombia which has been heat-treated and artificially hardened. In some cases it has also been dyed and painted or burnt black on the rear of the stone to create an optical illusion of being more green than it actually is. Confusingly, some true amber does have a greenish hue, but this too is often painted on the back to enhance the depth of the colour.

Real amber: • unlike copal, does not soften when rubbed with alcohol • unlike some plastics, is fairly soft and can be easily scratched • floats in a saline solution (although so do some lookalikes) • generally produces a resinous smell when pricked with a hot needle, but so too does copal • if Baltic, will have a ‘Baltic shoulder’ which can be spotted using Infrared spectroscopy If you are still unsure then it is best to seek an expert opinion before you buy, such as is offered by the Safeguard Valuation Service at Birmingham Assay Office. Alternatively you could attend one of Maggie Campbell Pederson’s highly informative talks at the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) one of which is planned for the autumn of 2011. Her website also offers some interesting in-depth articles on the topic (www.maggiecp.com).

18ct gold and amber pendant by Catherine Best. RRP £1,260. www.catherinebest.com

One sure way however of avoiding problems in the first place, as Simon Rainer of the British Jewellers’ Association points out, is to buy from a trusted source. “All members of The British Jewellers’ Association must abide by our Code of Ethics and this is a retailer’s guarantee of decent business practices and authenticity of product,” he says. This article was compiled with assistance from Bob Rontaler, Maggie Campbell Pederson and Sylvia Libicka.

The Voice of the Industry 47

| BJA Feature

Colours of Spring Spring blossom and sugared almond colours were prominent at Top Drawer last month. Lindsey Straughton visited the show and reports on the new styles from members of the British Jewellers’ Association that were proving popular with buyers. hile a plethora of trends, colour stories and fashion details were on offer at the show, it was clear that particular styles and themes were really catching the eye of visitors. For instance, Jax Jewellery report that crystal and glass beads for collectable ranges were selling through, while Martick Jewellery continues to have strong sales in necklaces with multiple silver charms. Pomegranate proved that gold and green work well as a colour combination. Tones of greens and pinks through to brighter shades act as highlight colours.

New for Spring/Summer 2011 is Mounir’s 14ct gold fill collection inspired by fresh and light spring blossom. Using quality gemstones in mouthwatering shades – aquamarine, lemon quartz, amethyst, apatite and peridot – and Keshi pearls, this is a luxurious range at a fraction of the price of gold. Hoop earrings with Keshi pearls, pink tourmaline beads and pink topaz drop. RRP: £84. Tel: 020 8780 5373 www.mounir.co.uk

Sushilla Done launched her new designer jewellery range last year and has gone from strength to strength with her use of gemstones in their rough, organic state. Tallulah Cuffs are handmade in goldplated silver, set with six hand-cut, large rough, organic stones – amethyst, vessonite, ruby, laborite or smithsonite. The range also includes cocktail rings and earrings. The cuff RRP: £249. Tel: 01993 706703 www.sushilla.co.uk

Vasso Kalogeropoulou is inspired by the sunshine of her homeland. Lots of layering of lengths of long thin chains with very small stones to create more statement neckwear featured strongly. Charms include Fatima’s hand, moons, suns and shells. This season’s colour palette ranged from bright pink, purple and turquoise to white, greys and pale pinks. RRP from £50. Tel: 07887 916 815 www.pinkpowder.co.uk

Divine Destiny

This wonderfully intricate hair comb is one of the stunning designs from Divine Destiny’s new spring/summer 2011 Daisy Collection. This Daisy Comb uses fine quality freshwater pearls allowing the lusture of the white pearls to accentuate the elegance of the design alongside the iridescence of the Swarovski crystal. RRP: £165. Tel: 07714 100972 www.yourdivinedestiny.co.uk

Sonya Bennett Jewellery

All of Sonya’s jewellery is designed and made exclusively in her Somerset workshop. Inspired by nature, love and art, her new ‘Honeybee’ collection received plenty of interest at the show including from the Bee Keeper’s Association. The range includes pieces in sterling silver and gold, ‘High Summer’ honeybee with gold strawberry RRP: £199. Tel: 01373 465221 www.sonyabennettjewellery.com

48 The Jeweller March 2011

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The Voice of the Industry 49

| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

w i t h

F e l l o w s

S o n s

Antique JEWELLERY Afghanistan’s buried treasure This month, the British Museum is hosting a major exhibition of artefacts from Afghanistan – including pieces from a hoard that lay undiscovered for over 2,000 years. Jo Young tells the extraordinary story of this ‘lost treasure’ and its survival. hen we think of Afghanistan today we think, inevitably, of violence, warfare and religious turmoil. The Afghan people have suffered several generations’ worth of overseas invasions, violent disruption and oppressive rule. When we think of Afghanistan’s most recent past we think, almost immediately, of the Taliban. This military group ruled in the

country from 1996 to 2001, forcing their own fundamentalist Islamic beliefs on the country’s people: theirs was the most extreme interpretation of Sharia Law to be exercised anywhere in the world. As most in Europe are now aware, until they were overthrown by the US-led invasion of Afghanistan in late 2001, the Taliban were particularly known for their horrific

Boot buckles depicting a chariot drawn by dragons

treatment of women; the ruling government forced all females to wear the burqa in public, and forbade them from working or being educated beyond the age of eight. At its ugliest, the Taliban’s interpretation of Quranic principles saw women being publicly flogged or even executed for supposed infringements of the law.

Buddhas of Bamyan Ornament for the neck of a robe

All images in this article courtesy of Thierry Ollivier / Musée Guimet

50 The Jeweller March 2011

Unfortunately for the art world, where oppressive regimes display a callous attitude towards their people, they very often have an attendant disregard for their nation’s cultural heritage, and Afghanistan’s most recent rulers were no exception. It’s perhaps rather a sad fact that, where Afghanistan is concerned, it was the desecration of cultural artefacts (and not the abysmal treatment of the country’s people) that first drew international attention toward Afghanistan and threw the media spotlight onto what the Taliban were doing to their people. The cultural artefacts in question were known as the Buddhas of Bamyan, a pair of monumental Buddhist statues dating from the 6th Century BC. These majestic artefacts – which were carved directly into the sandstone cliffs of the Bamyan valley, in the Hazarajat region of Afghanistan, north of the

Antique Jewellery | capital Kabul – were considered to be a classic example of Gandhara art. The Taliban government – to howls of outrage from the international art world – deliberately destroyed the statues in 2001, on the grounds that they were ‘idols’ and therefore forbidden by Islamic law.

Lost treasure Happily, however, the British Museum is this month able to tell a story of Afghani culture and art with a far happier ending. Following the signing of an agreement between the UK and the current Afghan government, the museum will be exhibiting a priceless collection of Afghan treasure, much of which has never before been seen in this country. The exhibition Afghanistan: Crossroads of the Ancient World will highlight some of the most important archaeological discoveries from ancient Afghanistan and will display over 200 objects belonging to the National Museum of Afghanistan, alongside selected items from the British Museum. The earliest objects in the exhibition are part of a treasure found at the site of Tepe Fullol, dating from 2000 BC, representing the earliest gold objects found in Afghanistan and which show how it was already connected by trade with urban civilisations in ancient Iran and Iraq. The later finds come from three additional sites, all in northern Afghanistan, and dating between the 3rd century BC and 1st century AD. These are Ai Khanum, a Hellenistic Greek city on the Oxus river and on the modern border with Tajikistan; Begram, a capital of the local Kushan dynasty whose rule extended from Afghanistan into India, and Tillya Tepe, the site of an elite nomadic cemetery. Until only a few years ago, around 100 of the pieces that the British Museum is

Pair of bracelets terminating in lion heads

showcasing had barely been seen anywhere, as they form part of a collection of Afghan treasure known as the Bactrian Gold hoard. Comprising jewellery, glassware and funeral ornaments, this hoard had literally been hidden from view for 2,000 years, buried in northern Afghanistan in what is known as the ‘Hill of Gold’, or Tillya Tepe. That is, until 1978, when a Soviet archaeologist discovered the hoard and brought it out of subterranean hiding.

Necklace (Tillya Tepe, Tomb III)

Reburial Unfortunately, the archaeologist – Victor Sarianidi – and his team had made his once-in-a-lifetime discovery just before the outbreak of the Afghan civil war in 1979, when the political turmoil was so great that the gold was not considered to be safe. Having only just seen the light of day, the collection was therefore destined to be ‘buried’ once again, this time being deliberately hidden by concerned museum staff in Kabul. And so it stayed, locked away for its own good, through the continuing turmoil and violent unrest of the 1970s and 1980s, right through the Taliban’s years of terror and the eventual post-September 11th invasion of the coalition armies. The gold treasure – of which there are an incredible 20,000 pieces – was only officially rediscovered in 2003, shortly after the US-led invasion of the country and some years after the Taliban began its ferocious razing of the country’s cultural past. I say ‘officially’, because although it had been thought lost throughout much of the 1990s, the Taliban had apparently discovered the whereabouts of the hidden collection some years before – underneath the central bank building in Kabul. As the regime’s political downfall was looming, the Taliban is said to have made several increasingly desperate and frustrated attempts to unearth the treasure. In a tale that resembles the plot of a Hollywood adventure, the gold had been apparently placed in secret underground vaults which could be opened only by seven key holders, whose identities had been kept secret. The Taliban’s final, infuriated attempt to bomb the doors off the underground vaults failed, leaving the new government free to ‘rescue’ the treasure and hand it over to the National Geographic Society for cataloguing.

Gold on tour Following its rediscovery, the Bactrian gold collection has spent some years ‘on tour’. The tour began in 2006, and has since made its way around the world. It began at the Guimet Museum in Paris, marking the collection’s first adventure outside Afghanistan, and went on to be shown in Turin; at the Nieuwe Kerk in Amsterdam; the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC and in Bonn in Germany. As Sir William Patey, the British ambassador to Afghanistan has rightly said, “The fact that these artefacts were saved and preserved by brave and dedicated Afghans, who are now generously sharing them with the rest of the world, shows another more positive side of Afghanistan and shows that the country is far from being a lost cause”. Afghanistan: Crossroads of the Ancient World includes most of the finest and most exciting Tillya Tepe pieces, among them elaborately carved scabbards, the finest of gold jewellery and coins that are believed to have belonged to nomads and travellers from a past age.

A traveller’s crown Indisputably one of the most amazing pieces in this collection is this stunning, delicate-looking crown (pictured overleaf), which was found in the tomb of a nomadic woman. The piece is built around a heavy belt of woven gold and decorated with large, stone-set flowers and ‘coin’ shaped drops, it is one of the exhibition’s finest draws. What’s incredible about the piece is the timelessness of its styling and motifs: we know the crown is old, but to look at the pierced-out hearts and the flower shapes

The Voice of the Industry 51

| Antique Jewellery

Gold crown from Tillya Tepe

that decorate it, one would easily believe it to have been made yesterday by one of the best of our young jewellery designermakers. What is really incredible, though, is the fact that the crown is actually collapsible, making it all the more convenient for use by a wealthy nomad. Not bad for a piece of headgear made in the 1st Century BC!

Dragon imagery Equally exciting is the pendant (pictured right), also from the Tillya Tepe hoard,

52 The Jeweller March 2011

which features inlays of gold and turquoise. The design of the piece – in which two dragon-like creatures are depicted – beautifully illustrates the cultural positioning of Afghanistan in central Asia, where influences are drawn from Europe, China and elsewhere. “Afghanistan has always been a part of a complex network of cultures that doesn’t really take account of contemporary political boundaries. Long-distance travel and globalisation may seem like relatively new inventions, but the ancient world was much more connected than many of us may think,” said St John Simpson, curator of the British Museum exhibition.

world around it – and having been so fiercely protected by the Afghan people, it seems quite fitting that these treasures should now be enjoyed and appreciated in all their finery by the museum-going public. It is even more fitting that it should find its permanent home back where it belongs in Afghanistan, in whose soil it rested for so many hundreds of years.

Kabul Museum To complete what can only be hoped will be a happy story for this treasure, the gold now has a proper home in the National Museum of Kabul, which has lent the British Museum the 300 or so pieces on display and which is itself currently undergoing reconstruction. Having had such a checkered ‘life’ thus far – one so significantly interrupted by the whims of the political

Dragon Master Pendant

L ATE ST

N E W S

F R O M

TH E

E D U C ATI O N

D E PA RTM E NT

Prestigious Greenough trophy up for grabs again Each year, the Education Department celebrates the accolades of all our students in the annual award ceremony. The 10th of March 2011 will be no different, as all students who’ve gained a diploma in the last year, will be invited to the Goldsmiths Hall for a commemorative evening which will acknowledge and celebrate all their hard work. As part of this event, the NAG will also present the prestigious Greenough Trophy, which is awarded to our highest achieving JET 2 student of that year – a coveted prize for anyone taking an NAG training course. inners in previous years have gone on to do great work within the industry. However, what did winning the Greenough Trophy mean to them? We’ve gone back half a decade to 2006, and spoken to Jason Kercher, about what taking home the trophy meant to him, and how it has impacted on his career. At the time of taking the Jeweller’s Professional Diploma, Kercher was working for Winsor Bishop Jewellers in Norwich, but has since moved on to work for Simpsons Jewellers, also in Norwich. However, he was more than happy to talk to us about the part that it had played on his working life.

What made you decide to take the Jeweller’s Professional Diploma? “The company I had been working with at the time used the JET 1 programme as its way of training up members of staff. Most of the less experienced ones would start off on the JET 1 programme and, as they progressed, the company would allow them to go onto JET 2. From my experience JET 1 was really helpful, and gave me a lot of

54 The Jeweller March 2011

How did it feel when you not only passed the course, but managed to win the Greenough Trophy as well? “I was elated, and it was a wonderful sense of pride just to get my diploma. My parents and my wife had seen me going through the ups and downs of completing the diploma, and it was almost like a sigh of relief for them as well as for me. To win the trophy was just amazing. I knew I’d worked really hard and did really well on the exams, but I didn’t imagine I’d win the award. It was brilliant to be recognised by all the people I’d worked with during this time; that’s both the people in store and especially my tutors.” How has the course helped you over the last five years? “I think the JET programme is really important for up-and-coming talents in the jewellery industry. JET 1 is ideal for new members of staff, and JET 2 aids essential development – and they both work really well within an industry setting. In this sense the NAG are the winners, as they provide excellent education, which allows the industry to thrive. I’m a great advocate of the programmes, and we use them in store here also. I think it’s something that all members of staff new to the industry need to do, and it really needs to be promoted to those people.”

confidence, so given that the opportunity was there, I then went on to study JET 2. I managed to do really well, getting straight As in most of my coursework.”

What advice would you give current students? “It can be difficult but you’ve just got to plough on. Speak to your tutor and take

Education + Training | advantage of any tutorials; they’re all really helpful and it gives you more confidence knowing that you are probably not the only one struggling with a particular topic. The course is really good for setting all your learning in context, as well as in-store; so I’d advise students to take their folder into work and try making connections between work and their studies. All these things will make you realise that you are not on your own, and that you can learn these things, even if you aren’t very academic.” Is there anything else you’d like to add? “I’ve moved companies since completing the training and winning the award. Taking a cue from my previous employer, the new store I work in is looking to impart a number of courses and training exercises for their staff, just in the way I had done previously. The course itself helped me to gain the confidence and skills to be where

The course is really good for setting all your learning in context, as well as in-store; so I’d advise students to take their folder into work and try making connections between work and their studies. I am in the industry today. Winning the trophy, and being part of the legacy of the NAG and the JET programmes was not only a pleasing moment, but one of pride – knowing that my name would belong to the trophy for years to come. I’d just really like to say that the JET courses are an almost essential tool in creating better skilled, and more rounded sales staff. Without all the support of the NAG, I would not be here

Learning the way to success Over the next few months we will be celebrating our students’ continued success in examinations, which will be highlighted in our award ceremony. However, for some students it’s not all over yet. In May, another round of exams will see them consigned to lonely garrets, hunched over desks, relearning all the material they’ve digested over the year. or anyone who is concerned about the impending days of study in solitude, we have some examination tips which we think will help you through these potentially hard times. We’ve spoken to a number of successful candidates from last October’s exams, as well as some students who attended the JET tutorials held around the country – the result is a formula to aid you in getting through those nail-biting final examinations. One of the hardest things to do when facing an exam, is actually getting out those text books, strapping yourself to a seat and learning facts word for word. However, there are a few more inventive ways to face revision, and we’ve compiled just a few of the ones used by our recent successes and some top scholars at the University of Cambridge…

Top ten revision tips: • Make your learning visual – use post-it notes, revision cards, pictures – and stick these around your living space. • Apply your learning to in-store processes • Get someone else to work with you, helping you recite your material. • Do some example exam papers at regular intervals throughout your revision process. This is a good marker of your progress; it will enable you to see what areas you’re better at and the areas you need to brush up on. • Attend a JET Tutorial so you can ask last minute questions; get explanations and discussions on tricky subject areas and meet your tutor and fellow pupils. • Revise for short periods of time, taking frequent breaks. Always recap any work

today. I feel privileged to have been a part of it; I’m proud of my achievements, and I’m thankful to the Association for all their hard work and reciprocated recognition.”

Once again, the NAG will recognise another superb student with the Greenough Trophy at our annual awards event. The Education Department, along with Jason Kercher, would like to wish all of our students luck as far as the judging of this year’s trophy is concerned. Whether you win or not, as a previous winner has told us, the most important thing is getting that qualification and using your training to continue your career development. For more information on any NAG courses, please contact the Education Department on tel: 020 7613 4445 or send an e-mail to: jet@jewellers-online.org

you’ve done. The old ‘look, cover, write, check’ method can work! • Recite material whenever you have the chance (i.e. instead of staring at the person you fancy on the bus, take your revision cards and test yourself) • Plan revision time for each subject area. Especially try to bone up on the things you’re not confident with yet. • Don’t worry that you don’t know everything, just be confident on what you DO know, and what you CAN learn by the exam. Don’t over-exert yourself. • Remember your equipment; relax and enjoy (if you can). On the opposite page we spoke to former Greenough Trophy winner, Jason Kercher who advised students to try to revise practically within a shop environment; attend a tutorial; and use the course tutors as much as possible. “That’s what they’re there for!” he reminds. Kercher was awarded the highest marks for all his assignments in 2006 and he was very enthusiastic about how using all the resources of the course can help you succeed. For more information on examinations, tutorials or if you have any questions, contact the Education Department on: jet@jewellers-online.org.uk

The Voice of the Industry 55

| Education + Training a route to harness fresh talent. If you have trained staff with the right skills for the job they can do a wider range of tasks and take on new responsibilities – this can help to reduce skill shortages, minimise staff turnover and workplace accidents, and increase productivity.’ A recent Learning Skills Council Survey cites that 92 per cent questioned said that their apprenticeship programme better motivated staff and increased job satisfaction, which seems to support the NAS’ rhetoric. Ergo, there’s no reason not to take on an apprentice. However, from a business perspective, there appear to be worries about a lack of loyalty and the expense. For a business to train a prospective employee who is quick to move on, can be expensive, even if government assistance is sought. As for that assistance, some unions still complain that the government rules and provision on skills implement an overbearing top-down approach.

Meet the apprentice We’re all familiar with Lord Sugar’s methods of selecting a new business entrepreneur to take under his wing each year. We sit through weeks of a cringeworthy mix of grovelling, backstabbing and one-upmanship to see who will be awarded a top job with a six-figure salary. Admittedly most business owners don’t have a worldwide television format to train and test a new employee; but apprenticeships still remain a great way to take on new staff. With almost a million 18-24 year olds unemployed, or struggling to find full-time employment, the need for training and work experience has never been greater. However, does taking on an apprentice really benefit business? By Miles Hoare. ast month saw a number of companies take part in the 2011 National Apprentice Week. For the fourth year running, the event sought to advertise apprenticeships and award companies that offered the best of them – many of which lead to new jobs being created. However, over the past few years there has been something of a drop in the number of companies offering trainee programmes and more recently complaints that apprenticeships aren’t being supported enough by the government. So, how can taking an untried and untested young person benefit a business?

56 The Jeweller March 2011

The National Apprenticeship Service (NAS) is naturally pretty clear on the potential advantages. It reminds would-be employers that apprentices are ‘a vital way of improving the skills of staff and generating a committed and valuable workforce. When times are tough, competition for contracts is even tougher. That’s when a well-trained, extra pair of hands could make a real difference.’ As many are aware, UK business is under threat from a massive skills shortage. The NAS claims that ‘Apprenticeships can help businesses across all industries by offering

There are a number of reasons why taking on an apprentice can be beneficial to business. With the recent surge in the talk surrounding the subject, it seems that apprenticeship schemes might be one way of getting through these hard times. However, there is always a risk when taking on someone unskilled, compared to finding people that you know can do the job. If you’re interested in how to access more information on apprenticeships, and how you could tailor one for your business, you can contact the NAS on: www.apprenticeships.org.uk

Education + Training |

December & January’s JET 1 project award winners announced his month, the NAG and Bransom Retail Systems have announced the recipients of two Bransom JET 1 Project Awards. Each month all JET 1 final assignments are automatically entered for the coveted prize and the fortunate winners are chosen by a JET 1 moderator. The winners for the assignments submitted over Christmas and the New Year have now been selected, and the examiner has decided that December’s award should go to Jana Novokova of Harvey & Thompson Pawnbrokers in Swindon. Our first prize of 2011, and January’s winner of the award is handed to Christine Hartnett of Rainham in Kent. Jana and Christine received a certificate and will be invited to the NAG’s prestigious Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall. Commenting on our December winner Tutor Eddie Stanley says: “Jana has produced model answers to each to her assignments on the JET 1 course, all of them have

Jana Novokova

received a grade result of A*. Each piece of work arrived before the proposed date of submission for the assignment.” “The standard is increasing each month, and Jana’s project is a truly worthy winner for the December 2010 Award,” adds the project’s moderator. “The content of the project text demonstrates good research methodology in each area of diamond product knowledge. The final section of the project is an example of very good customer care. The quality of the supportive illustrations is first class and a pleasure to see included in the answer.”

Each of the 4Cs have been detailed very extensively and related closely to trade practice – such an in-depth answer is to be commended. On receiving the award, Jana was: “amazed to achieve an A* in my assignment, but when I heard that I’d won the award for it, I was over the moon! Harvey & Thompson put me on the course because they’ve been focusing on staff development and I want to thank them for that opportunity. The fact that the project moderator said I showed good customer care reflects on H&T’s high understanding of customer care, and shows how, as a Pawnbroker, H&T are reacting to some of the stigma attached to some Pawnbrokers’ level of customer service. So I was proud to show how well we’re doing!” The news of January’s winner, was greeted with pleasure by tutor Mark Houghton who thought Christine’s project excelled by using well researched and high quality downloaded images and work-based scenarios. “The general presentation of Christine’s work is very high and follows a logical course,” he explains.

Christine Hartnett

January’s project moderator, says: “Christine has produced an excellent piece of JET 1 project assignment work. The amount of research undertaken on diamonds covering their classification is reflected in the quality of the text in the script. Each of the 4Cs have been detailed very extensively and related closely to trade practice – such an in-depth answer is rare from a JET 1 candidate and is to be commended. The final sections of the project – the explanation to a customer of the diamond grading system – is simply brilliant.” We asked Christine how it felt to be the first award winner of the new year, and she told us she was: “very surprised, considering the amount of people who entered. It was a huge shock to receive the call, and a real privilege to win.” She thanked her tutor for helping her complete the course. Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. For more information on the JET courses go to: www.jewellers-online.org or call: 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom go to: www.bransom.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 57

| Insurance Matters

Risk avoidance tactics Being prepared for a robbery on your premises is something that you might consider unnecessary – but sadly it should always be front of mind. Predicting when a raid will happen is impossible so, in the first of three features, Neil McFarlane of jewellery insurance broker T.H. March offers some valuable tips, kicking off with preparation to best prevent a robbery…

General advice Be aware of people hanging around and be suspicious of people in vehicles who might be watching your premises. Look out for cars you’ve spotted previously – these could be potential robbers, checking out your shop. Be alert for the unusual: • People showing unreasonable interest in security or staff numbers • Pointless or ill thought out enquiries • Groups of people who would not be expected to shop together • Persons asking to see high value items who seem unlikely to be able to purchase them • Nervous persons Always check the identity of non-customer visitors such as alarm engineers and surveyors. Take the time to ring the organisations they represent before allowing access. Encourage staff to think critically about weakness in security and to discuss these with management. Keep a record of suspicious people, events or vehicles and their registrations; – an initiative like SaferGems is excellent for this.

Opening and closing procedures These are your most vulnerable times, so preparation is vital; at least two members of staff should be involved, and the keys should be split as follows: • One member of staff should have a safe key or knowledge of the combination; the other should have the premises keys and alarm key/code • If a safe has more than one locking system implement dual control dividing the keys/code and combinations between staff Entry and exit points must be via the most public entrance; the front of the premises is definitely the best. Consider time locks and time delay locks on safes and make sure

58 The Jeweller March 2011

opening and closing staff carry mobile personal attack alarms. When opening: • The person with the premises and alarm key/code should enter the premises, lock themselves in, disarm the alarm and check the entire premises for intruders • A prearranged sign should be made by the person on the premises to show the person outside that entry is safe. The visual indicator should be changed often • During this procedure the person with the safe key should be standing clear of the premises but in a position to observe. • If the prearranged signal is not given the second person should not investigate but should report the circumstances to the police • Once the sign is given, the second person and other members of staff may enter the premises, care being taken to ensure that they are not followed. The first person should watch them carefully during this time. • After entry, the door must be kept locked until dressing of the window has been completed. No one – even uniformed police or postmen – should be admitted unless they are particularly well known to you and seen clearly as not being followed. At closing time: • Reverse the opening procedure, with the door being locked and no callers admitted until windows have been cleared and the safe relocked • The person with the safe key should then depart the building and remain at a distant vantage point until they see the other key holders leave the premises safely having set the alarm

While open for business: Window backs and internal showcases must have keys which cannot easily be duplicated or purchased. They should be carried by each member of staff, not hung on a hook. Window backs and internal showcases must be relocked immediately after an item or pad is removed. Don't pass pads to a customer for inspection; remove the article the customer wishes to inspect and place the pad out of reach. Avoid having more than one pad in reach at any one time. Show high value goods as far away from the door as possible and preferably only one piece at a time. Be particularly cautious when staff numbers are depleted. Stagger lunchtimes and use an electric lock in the entry door even if you do not normally do so. Personal attack alarm buttons should be situated where they can be used unobtrusively and mobile personal attack alarms are recommended. Avoid inspecting manufacturers' ranges in the public area of the shop. Offer to escort reps to their cars.

Suspicious persons If suspicious of persons in the shop: • Alert colleagues with a prearranged but innocuous phase • Depending on the number of staff available, one should move to the door to deter an unarmed snatch • Other staff should be alert for snatches, switches or pilferage • Use excuses to avoid showing high value items • Consider notifying SaferGems Family owned insurance brokers T.H. March & Co Limited has been serving the jewellery industry since 1887. With offices around the UK, the company offers a wide range of insurance products including schemes for the customers of jewellers. www.thmarch.co.uk

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The Voice of the Industry 59

| IRV Review

Loughborough Conference 2011 The NAG’s 23rd Loughborough Conference for members of the Institute of Registered Valuers, takes place over the weekend of Saturday 24th to Monday 26th September, and, as always – as the name suggests – will take place at Loughborough University in Leicestershire. Sandra Page reports on the progress so far.

lans for this year’s full programme are already under way and the IRV Forum and Valuations Committee promise delegates yet another selection of top class experts covering topics dear to a valuer’s heart. We already have Richard Drucker, Harry Levy and Stephen Whittaker lined up as key guest speakers; plus Hazel Forsyth, the senior curator of the Museum of London’s PostMedieval Collection to talk about the famous Cheapside Hoard. As usual full details will automatically be sent to all IRVs and non-IRV delegates from

60 The Jeweller March 2011

the 2009 and 2010 Conferences. Any members who have not attended for a while – or have never attended – and would like to receive details please register your interest by contacting me on tel: 029 2081 3615 or email: irv@jewellers-online.org

NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers’ Forum The IRV Forum is a platform through which IRVs can discuss all valuation related issues and put forward ideas, plans and concerns for the Association’s Board of Directors to consider, via the Valuations Committee.

The Association is delighted that the IRV Forum has been a resounding success; a much needed platform to which any IRV can belong. All IRVs are invited to put themselves, or fellow IRVs forward to be elected to serve on the Forum. The current NAG IRV Forum consists of the following: Voting Members: Jonathan Lambert (as NAG Valuations Committee chairman), two members of the NAG Valuations Committee (Avril Plant, Peter Hering, Pravin Pattni and Jon Tabard take it in turn) and Rosamond Clayton, Alan Hayes and Geoff Whitefield as the elected IRVs. Non-Voting Members: Peter Buckie, David Callaghan and Michael Ferraro. Each term of service is three years (elected IRVs can serve for a maximum of two terms) and Alan Haye’s second term comes to an end this September. If necessary a ballot will take place at the Loughborough Conference when delegates will elect a Voting Member of the IRV Forum from the IRVs who have been nominated or volunteered for the vacancy. The Association hopes IRVs will put themselves forward for the vacancy. As mentioned above any elected IRV may only serve on the IRV Forum for a maximum of six years. We shall write direct to all IRVs inviting them to submit nominations or put themselves forward. We hope that many will support the election and do this.

IRV Review | The name of the successful nominee will be announced, and the presentation made, at the annual Loughborough Conference (24th-26th September 2011).

NAG calls for nominations for ‘David Wilkins Trophy’ for excellence in valuation and appraisal he IRV has also announced its call for nominations for the seventeenth annual David Wilkins Award in recognition of exceptional skill, dedication and service in the field of jewellery appraisal and valuation. David Wilkins (1931-1994), former chairman of the NAG Valuations Committee, had a distinguished career in the jewellery industry and was widely known and respected both for his outstanding personal qualities and great expertise. More than any other individual Wilkins sought to encourage high standards of conduct and professionalism in respect of valuations. The award that he sponsored remains as his legacy in promoting the aims for which he strove for so long. The Board of Directors of the NAG may award the David Wilkins Trophy if an individual has demonstrated outstanding skill, dedication or service in respect of jewellery appraisal and valuation. Because this award is made on an annual basis, it may only be referred to by the recipient in the relevant year.

Who is likely to qualify for the David Wilkins Trophy?

Last year’s winner MIRV Adrian Smith says, “An independent valuer’s existence can be a lonely one, working in solitude, almost within our own little bubble. As a result it can sometimes be difficult to know if one is on the right track. Peer recognition is one of the yardsticks we can use to confirm that we are going in the right direction. Being nominated and perhaps winning The David Wilkins Award is the ultimate confirmation that all is well and undoubtedly motivates valuers to give more, be better and try harder. Needless to say I am thrilled at receiving this award and feel honoured to see my name along side such heavyweights in our profession.”

The trophy which was first presented in 1994 comprises an Elizabethan-style silver dish which is inscribed with the winner’s name who retains it for the relevant year. It is complemented by the award of £100 in book tokens for supplementing the recipient’s personal reference library. An IRV may nominate him or herself or any other individual they feel merits the honour and a nomination may also be made by an NAG Ordinary Member. Completed nominations for the 2011 award must be sent to the NAG Cardiff office to be received not later than 29th April 2011.

Previous winners Terence J Watts – 1994 Alan J Smith – 1995 Roy V Huddlestone – 1996 J Louise Butterworth – 1997 Peter J R Jackson – 1998 Brian R Dunn – 1999 Michael S J Norman – 2000 Philip L Stocker – 2001 Rosamond S Clayton – 2002 Paul Templeton – 2003 John S Harris – 2004 Heather McPherson – 2005 David J Callaghan – 2006 Alan Hodgkinson – 2007 Peter Buckie – 2008 Steven Jordan – 2009 Adrian S Smith – 2010

There is no official list of criteria that will enable a nominee to fulfil the citation but the following examples of conduct may provide some guidance: (a) Consistently producing valuations of exceptional standard (b) Giving help and guidance to colleagues or to members of the public (c) Working to promote and further the aims of the NAG’s IRV (d) Providing information/resources for IRVs. (e) Achieving exceptional results in training and/or examination (f) Demonstrating high integrity (g) Showing diligence in research and information gathering (h) Displaying general conduct likely to enhance the reputation of IRVs

Rules 1. Nominees may include members of the NAG Valuations Committee. 2. Nomination must be by either an IRV, an NAG Ordinary Member or someone qualified to make an informed judgement as to the merits of the nominee. 3. Self-nomination must be seconded by some such person as in 2. 4. When considering nominations the NAG Valuations Committee may call for further proof or particulars to support a particular nomination and may at its discretion exclude a nomination without stating reasons. 5. The NAG Valuations Committee shall seek nominations annually by written notice to all IRVs and NAG Ordinary Members. 6. The selection from the nominations received will be by the NAG Valuations Committee. 7. These rules may be amended at any time by the NAG Valuations Committee which has an absolute discretion in all matters to do with the award of the trophy. The deadline for receipt of nominations is 29 April 2011. Nomination forms can be obtained from Sandra Page. Tel: 029 2081 3615 or email irv@jewellers-online.org.

The Voice of the Industry 61

| Regular

Notebook

to-digest book is deal for newcomers to the trade as the author has ensured that descriptions and explanations are clear and uncomplicated.

Books

The Pocket Watch, by Christopher Barrow (£18.95, Hale Publishing) This revised edition gives a step-by-step guide to cleaning and repairing a pocket watch, giving as examples six of the most typical types of watches from a period spanning from the late 18th to the early 20th century. Lots of clear photos, straight talking and helpful tips.

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

The Diamond Compendium by DeeDee Cunningham (£150.00, Hale Publishing) Not so much a book, more a tome – almost 900 pages, with over 200 colour photos and 150 figures and charts – offering an extremely comprehensive

and absorbing exploration of diamonds. A graduate of the Canadian Gemmological Association, the author covers everything from origins, mining and the four Cs to fancy coloured, conflict, synthetics and famous stones. Gemstones – Understanding, Identifying, Buying by Keith Wallis (£14.95 hardback, ACC Publishing Group) An updated and expanded version of gemmologist Wallis’ bestseller, with more gems, new sections, new illustrations and plenty of gem-related advice. This easy-

Sales & Exhibitions March Now until 11th September: Adornment and Identity: Jewellery & Costume from Oman, British Museum, London A rare display of 20th Century silver jewellery and traditional costume from Oman giving a fascinating insight into the country’s rich history. Much of the jewellery is decorated with coins, gold leaf, coral and glass beads, with several amuletic pieces incorporating elaborate Qur’an pendants (image right). Now until 29th October: Studio Silver Today, Kedlestone Hall, Derbyshire An exhibition of silver by rising star silversmith Theresa Nguyen, which tells the story of the Goldsmiths’ Company as well as Nguyen’s career. During the show at this National Trust property, she will be present to explain her craft and demonstrate her skills. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

the modest to the luxurious. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

Now until 3rd July: Afghanistan – Crossroads of the Ancient World, British Museum, London See page 50 for our preview feature. 25th-10th July: The Modern Jewel, Middlesborough Institute of Modern Art A celebration of new works created for MIMA by Dutch jewellers Atelier Ted Noten and UK jewellery designers Lin Cheung and Laura Potter, in collaboration with local residents (the city’s 1,000 taxi drivers among them!) www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk April 3rd-17th (provisional): Dazzle Exhibition, Merchant Square, Glasgow One of a handful of events held each year to showcase the work of contemporary jewellery designers, with prices ranging from

62 The Jeweller March 2011

March 17th-21st: Instanbul Jewelry Show, Instanbul Fair Centre, Turkey A major jewellery, gemstones and equipment fair covering the Middle and Near East, Russia, CIS nations, Eastern Europe and North Africa. www.rotaforte.com 24th-31st: Baselworld, The Watch and Jewellery Show, Messe Basel, Switzerland With a heavy emphasis on timepieces, but with major jewellery, diamond, gemstone and pearl brands also exhibiting, Baselworld is arguably the key industry event of the year. This year there is expected to be more than 1800 exhibitors. See p32 for our full preview of the show. www.baselworld.com April 3rd-5th: British Craft Trade Fair, Great Yorkshire Showground, Harrogate The new and established artists who are chosen to exhibit at BCTF represent a wide selection of craft disciplines and symbolise the best in British contemporary home and giftware. www.bctf.uk

APPOINTMENTS

RECRUITMENT Are you looking to recruit staff for retail, manufacturing, design, sales, jobbing, management, admin and finance? Advertise your jewellery and watch vacancies in The Jeweller magazine Appointments section and on the Jeweller Recruitment online site (www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk) simultaneously at very competitive rates. Call Ian Francis on tel: 020 7833 5500 or email him at: ian@cube-uk.com to book your recruitment advertising in The Jeweller magazine.

www.jewelleryjobs.com A selection of our current vacancies… Retail

General

• Leading Bond Street jewellers require top class sales people with good and active client lists; languages an advantage – excellent salaries and benefits

• High end watch brand requires a watch brand manager based in the South East, must have experience at a senior level and used to dealing with key account clients and managing a small team. Dynamic and enthusiastic, French speaking an advantage

• Chinese and Arabic speaking sales people required in Bond Street and Knightsbridge • Salesperson for leading jewellers – West London • Manager for leading jeweller in Surrey required • High end diamond sales people and management required in the West End of London • Gallery Manager wanted for a leading jeweller in Kent, previous experience required in high end jewellery and/or watches • Manager wanted for prestigious new boutique opening in Mayfair. Must have West End experience and have an existing client base with good watch and fine jewellery experience. Must be proactive and able to build and maintain client relationships • Sales people and Assistant Managers/Manager Designates required throughout the country, particularly Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool, Chester, Birmingham, Glasgow, Edinburgh and the South East

• Customer Service Coordinators, Sales Administrators and After Sales Service Managers are currently being sought in London. • Luxury watch brand seeking a Marketing Manager capable of handling, Marketing, Media planning and buying, PR and events. French speaking an advantage but not essential • Essex Company needs an experienced setter; Yorkshire company needs a very experienced mounter • As always, qualified watchmakers, ideally Rolex-trained, required throughout the country

All enquiries treated in total confidence. For more information on national opportunities visit our website. Contact Katie or Grant on tel: 01756 753 or e-mail: jobs@jackson-maine.com

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Pearls

Raw Pearls Limited Importers, manufacturers and suppliers of cultured pearls and pearl jewellery

Over 30 years specialising in pearls E: jpr@rawpearls.com T: 01460 281 496 W: www.rawpearls.com

Pearl Restringing

AGARS

Platinum

Precious Stones, Beads and Pearls

Repair Services

Shopfitting

(est. 1946)

• The complete restringing service

to the trade for over 60 years. • Experience, quality and service

at reasonable prices. • Full insurance. All urgent repairs by return. Call David or Stephen at Agars Ltd Port Hall Mews, Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5PB Tel/fax: 01273 540330 Email: steveagar@hotmail.com

Repairs

Member of the British Jewellers’ Association

bqw rolex specialist

Is your Rolex watch bracelet stretched and worn?

At BQ Watches we can make it look brand NEW

We now specialise in the repair and refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Call now for a FREE Quotation

020 8731 2563

www.bqwatches.com Signage

Titanium Jewellery

Watch Distributors

| Regular

The

Last Word This month the probing spotlight that is The Last Word falls on Tom Green, chairman of Charles Green & Son Personal Profile Tom Green is the sixth generation to manage Charles Green and Son. Tom joined the company, based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, in 1972 working first in the wedding ring workshop and then moving through all departments. In his career at Charles Green the company has remained at the forefront of UK jewellery manufacture, including winning the ‘Jewellery Manufacturer of the Year’ award twice. In 2005 Tom took over the company and became chairman and appointed Richard Sutton as managing director. Now regarded as one of the UK’s premier wedding ring suppliers, under Tom’s helm the company’s brand and direction has been modernised with the reward of a nomination for last year’s ‘Platinum Bridal Collection of the Year’. How would you describe your personal style? I do smart and I do casual – but find it impossible to get the two together. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Any beach where I can scuba dive in warm clear water and there is no mobile phone service. What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? Generous, understanding and compassionate, but those around me don't seem to see these qualities – they probably see fussy, impatient and demanding.

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? I would have spent at least a year working in a retail environment before joining the business and then spent a lot longer working on the bench with the craftsmen. If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? I think we tend to forget just how lucky we are to work in both an enjoyable and challenging industry. I would use my magic wand for something else. Do you know the price of a pint of milk? I seem to pay the milkman £60 a month but for how many pints I have not got the faintest idea. To what do you attribute your success? As I am the sixth generation of the family to run the company, a lot of credit goes to my father and his forebears for laying the foundations that each generation has then added to. As for today, I believe that our success (which is my success) can be

66 The Jeweller March 2011

attributed to having surrounded myself with the finest team of colleagues that anyone could wish for. Tell us something not many people know about you… I have managed to keep a clean driving license for over 35 years (which is probably tempting fate). Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country)? I tend to bulk buy for myself when the need arises as I don’t have the patience to shop. I do however love looking in the jewellers’ windows on Bond Street for inspiration and to admire some fantastic works of art that have been created. If you hadn’t gone into the jewellery business, what career would you have chosen? I have always been interested in how things work, especially under the bonnet of a car, and I could see myself as an engineer, maybe in the automotive industry. Quick fire (no deliberating) • Red or white wine? Red • Football or cricket? (team?) Cricket – Worcestershire • Diamonds or coloured stones? Colour – I love emeralds • White or yellow metal? White • TV or radio? Radio • Bentley or Roller? Bentley • Delegator or control freak? Delegator • Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian? Indian • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles

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Junghans 150 Years Anniversary watch Meister Chronoscope 027 / 7122 Automatic, mechanical movement J880.1 with display for date and day, chronoscope with seconds stop. Retail ÂŁ1340.00 For an appointment to retail please contact: Telephone: 01698 283388 Fax: 01698 285677 Email: jon.vincent@btconnect.com Distributor and service centre for Junghans in the UK and Eire