The Jeweller Magazine by Zest Europe

the

Jeweller October 2011

£6.50

The Voice of The Industry

The Diamond Issue Spotlight on the diamond market Human rights impact The issue of certification Plus – tips to maximise your festive window display!

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

O C T

Putting on the Glitz

1 1

Industry News

Member of the Month

Education & Training

IRV Review

BJA News

Copenhagen Show Report

Security

Legal Jeweller

Brand Profile

Opinion: John Henn

Simon Says

how the Kimberley Process might regain

BJA Christmas Sparkle

its lost credibility

Antique Jewellery

Insurance Matters

From prices to choice cuts – Belinda Morris

Notebook

puts the diamond market in the spotlight

Display Cabinet

The Last Word

The Diamond Issue Certificate Survey

The thorny subject of diamond certification comes under NAG member scrutiny

Diamonds and Human Rights

Jeweller and activist Greg Valerio looks at

Editor’s Letter

and announcing our festive window competition

NAG News

Tips on creating the best seasonal window displays

Communiqué

Saying it with Diamonds

Showstoppers

Mary Brittain reviews the highlights of last month’s

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

IJL, courtesy of BJA members

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris Tel: 01692 538007

Cover Image In conjunction with Corona Jewellery Company Tel: 01299 832813 Email: cherry@coronajewellery.com www.mapleleafdiamonds.com

bmorris@colony.co.uk BJA Marketing & PR Manager: Lindsey Straughton lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7613 4445 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian@jewellers-online.org Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Mary Brittain, Henrik Dinesen, John Henn, Miles Hoare, Greg Valerio, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

From economic doom and gloom to more cheerful and encouraging jewellery industry news – presenting the ‘stream of consciousness’ jottings of a bewildered chief executive!

Modest but choppy As I write these notes, some politicians and commentators are calling for modest stimulus spending to leaven the austerity loaf that most of the UK is chewing on. Of course, these proclamations could have more to do with gaining visibility at the party conferences than serious economic strategy, but there is no doubt that we could all do with something to smile about. While the government’s measures reassure the credit ratings agencies that they mean what they say about reducing debt, they also heighten the feeling of gloom exacerbated by the transition to autumn weather. As a commuter I have long since reached that state of negative equilibrium where it’s dark when I leave home in the morning and dark when I get home over thirteen hours later. So, in preparation for a meeting with the Bank of England recently, I thought I should find out if my mood was reflected by business leaders, and whether it translated into business activity. My straw poll, conducted among a small cross section of members big and small, couldn’t have been clearer. The mood is flat, and expectations of consumer spending are low. The news isn’t all bad on employment with staff

4 The Jeweller October 2011

numbers expected to remain static and average pay rises likely to be up to two per cent; this is probably because the flexibility of the retail workforce allowed members to act fast to reduce headcount when the recession first hit. But the pleasant surprise was that jewellers don’t expect to reduce investment in the next six months. Quite where they will find the funds is another matter! As was to become

banks are not interested in financing the expansion of the UK economy. According to the Bank of England the economy is experiencing a ’modest but choppy’ recovery. But inflation is still a problem, fuelled by a big rise in oil and commodity prices, and will not come back into line until the anniversaries of VAT, utility, and oil increases are passed at the end of 2012. Meanwhile the consequences are that with average wage rises standing at 2.5 per cent and inflation at 4.5 per cent, consumer spending power continues to decline. That, of course, presupposes that people remain in work. Most around the table agreed that notwithstanding poor figures announced that day, unemployment had been lower than predicted, but masked a deeper problem – the ‘underemployed’. Many, particularly the young, having settled for part-time work as an alternative to unemployment, do not appear on the official statistics. Already under strain from inflationary pressures, just how long family budgets can subsidise this remains to be seen.

Most around the table agreed that notwithstanding poor figures announced that day, unemployment had been lower than predicted, but masked a deeper problem – the ‘underemployed’. Many, particularly the young, having settled for part-time work as an alternative to unemployment, do not appear on the official statistics. evident at my meeting, some sectors like engineering and manufacturing are experiencing reasonable demand; exports to Europe and S. E. Asia are strong and UK high technology products are in demand. However, export credit guarantees and help with trade export assistance is minimal; and the conclusion is that

As for the effect on business, it was illuminating to contrast our own sector – where inflation brought about by dramatic raw material price rises climbs upward – with the construction sector where demand is flat and labour rates haven’t increased for two years. It will take the finest minds of the ‘B of E’ to work out how to manage

Comment | an economy running at such dramatically different speeds. By the time you read these notes, the Monetary Policy Committee will have spoken; will it be more ‘wait and see’ than ‘hurry up and wait’? The nation holds its breath!

Safe, vibrant, optimistic The economy aside, what most jewellers need, alongside some relief from the current gloom, is a safe vibrant locality from which to trade… and well trained staff! Encouraging the latter has been the NAG’s stock in trade for over 65 years. This year our theme has been ‘Grow Your Own’ in the sense that with a bit of nurturing you can make your existing staff excel. We have also been getting our courses online; at the Loughborough Conference we announced the launch of CAT, the last element leading to a fully functioning valuations qualification; but what to do about security and the shopping environment? At September’s brilliant IJL show we turned our attention yet again to these very subjects; sponsoring workshops from Met

However, export credit guarantees and help with trade export assistance is minimal; and the conclusion is that banks are not interested in financing the expansion of the UK economy. Police colleague Mark Beale, our SaferGems initiative, and lastly from our new friends at Action for Market Towns. I have written and spoken many times about SaferGems – we were reminded again of its successes at IJL – but only last week I was privileged to experience the security community’s reaction when we presented it for their critical appraisal. I am delighted to say that the reaction was an almost universal thumbs up from people who know the value of intelligence and the assistance it gives to an under-resourced police force. With this morning’s newspaper headlines trumpeting the early onset of store Christmas departments in a desperate attempt to set the tills ringing; the British Retail Consortium suggesting that working in a shop is better value than a university degree; and David Cameron insisting that “the high street should be at the very heart of every community”, everyone’s attention is back on retail and its role as an economic barometer. Mary Portas, hired by the government to lead an independent review into the UK’s troubled high street, has been promoting her report due out in November. It’s to identify what the government, local authorities and businesses can do to promote the development of more ‘prosperous and diverse high streets’. Action for Market Towns (AMT), a national charity that has already done a lot of the spade work on the vitality and viability of small towns, magnanimously welcomed the focus on town centres when announced, but I wonder what, apart from publicity, the ‘Queen of Shops’ can bring to the party that AMT hasn’t already thought of. I suspect that the answer doesn’t lie in dramatic gestures but local government and traders getting together to apply the principles of ‘Grow Your Own’!

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“We always inform customers that certificates are an opinion only, carrying no weight in law, and are purely the viewpoint of the individual grader who examined the stone”

This morning I drove through my local market town on the way to my office, to be greeted by the unaccustomed sight of a policeman standing outside our one and only jewellers. The metal security grid had been cut away and a widow was boarded up. How dreadful! Not just for the retailer – whose stock tends towards the middle rather than the top end – but also for the town. I’ve lived here for almost 20 years and it’s only in the last one or two that such a crime has reared its ugly head. It’s a salutary reminder that cosy rural idylls are probably a thing of the past – no-one is immune. But we can still take actions to make changes – check Michael Hoare’s Security report on page 32 for a reminder of how. Rising insurance premiums are the last thing we need – there are enough price hikes

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elsewhere to mess with margins. Take diamonds for instance... they’re all over the place. But while price is obviously an influencing factor in how the market is faring, it isn’t the only one. In my feature on the gems (page 48) those who specialise in diamond jewellery wax lyrical about their enduring appeal (hang the cost!) and throw in a few trend tips and selling hints. Lest we forget though, not every diamond is as pure as it ought to be. Jeweller and tireless activist Greg Valerio reminds us that the ethical problems have not magically disappeared – despite best efforts by some many over the past few years. Resting on laurels and burying heads in the sand are not options… discuss.

“Retailers need to put a bit more oomph in selling diamonds than simply saying that they sparkle and quoting the tired old ‘4-Cs’ mantra.”

As most visitors and exhibitors (and the BJA’s show round-up on page 42) will confirm, IJL last month offered its usual blend of sparkle, enlightenment and gossip. There was also the heady frisson of danger to be had – if one attempted to cross the Boulevard without first looking left and right, there was the very real danger of being trampled on by an Amazonian model in stilettos, black lycra and diamond choker. What a way to go!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 48

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

De Beers moves to Botswana s part of a milestone agreement reached between the De Beers Group and the Government of the Republic of Botswana, the De Beers Group will transfer its Londonbased rough diamond sales activity to Botswana. The 10-year contract will transform that country into one of the world’s leading diamond trading and manufacturing hubs. The agreement is the longest sales contract ever agreed between the two partners. Some De Beers operations will remain in Hatton Garden, which has hosted the auctions since the 19th century – marketing, human resources and administration – but it is thought that of the 370 or so members of staff at De Beers, around 100 will have to move to Botswana or lose their jobs. De Beers’ new facility, which is already built, is near the airport at Gaborone, Botswana’s capital. Sightholders will also be looking at rather more complex travel arrangements in future – once direct flights from major trading centres to Gaborone have been introduced. Nicky Oppenheimer, Chairman of De Beers, commented, “With this agreement, De Beers cements its commitment to being the

Nicky Oppenheimer, Chairman of De Beers and Mr Kedikilwe, Botswana’s minister of minerals, Energy and Water Resources

driving force behind Botswana’s emergence as a world-leading diamond trading and manufacturing centre. The transformation that this agreement sets out is testament to our belief in the future of Botswana, and is a clear acknowledgment that De Beers’ success is only possible with a profound understanding that the aspirations of our partners must be at the core of our business. I am proud of this moment and excited by what we will build together.” Mr Oppenheimer added that, as a result of the agreement, “Botswana has preserved and enhanced a highly successful route to market, focused on maximising the value of her natural resource, and De Beers has

Time at The Jewellery Show map Connect, the organiser of Jewellery Show 2012, has announced that there is to be a dedicated watch area – Time – within the show. Luxury watch distributor BQ Watches, traders of pre-owned premium brands such as Rolex, Cartier and Breitling, is the new watch partner for this event, which will take place from 5th - 9th February at the NEC Birmingham. Other watch makers that have signed up to join Time include long-standing exhibitor at The Jewellery Show, Condor Group – owner of the Royal London, Cannibal Watches and Time Co brands – along with a host of other market leading suppliers, many of which have never been seen before at the NEC or haven’t exhibited for several years.

8 The Jeweller October 2011

1853 will bring Revue Thommen, Alessandro Baldieri, Torgoen Swiss and Kennett to the show and visitors can also look forward to seeing Storm Watches, Issey Miyake, Festina, Chic, George, Identify London, Oasis, Playboy and Puma Freefall, Henley, Wingmaster, Ravel, Tom Dexter, Oozoo, Louis Frey, Switch, Danish Designs, Time IT and Icon Watches. Speaking of the launch of Time, event director Julie Driscoll comments: “We are always looking to enhance the offering for our customers. After several conversations with numerous retailers and exhibitors it became clear that there was a need for a watch section within The Jewellery Show, and we saw an opportunity to create a more rounded offering for buyers.”

secured long-term and uninterrupted access to the largest supply of diamonds in the world. This is a once in a generation opportunity for Botswana and De Beers to shape the future of the diamond industry, and we look forward to working with our partners to provide our Sightholders with the continuity and quality of supply they expect while pushing beneficiation to greater levels than ever seen before.” Commenting on the move, Harry Levy, president of the London Diamond Bourse makes the point that there have been “persistent rumours” that De Beers are “going to close their operations completely and sell out”. He adds that as they have “their main African business in Botswana so it makes sense to move there until they do sell out.” Besides the fact that some in the London diamond trade will lose touch with some good friends, he sees the impact on Hatton Garden as minimal. “One thought is what will happen to their sight-holders who travelled 10 times a year to London? I don’t know how happy they will be to go to Botswana every five weeks. Perhaps they will bring the sight boxes to the established cutting centres,” he adds.

Assay Office opens doors he Birmingham Assay Office is opening its doors to the general public for one day only on Tuesday 6th December. Usually these visits are available to organised groups only, so this is a unique opportunity to see the spectacular Silver Collection, the Library, and to hear about the history of hallmarking and The Birmingham Assay Office. Visitors will be met with a warm welcome, including coffee and biscuits before the visit, and afterwards, in the Gift Shop, they will be able to buy gifts such as books and silver items all made in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter and hallmarked at The Birmingham Assay Office. There are options of an 11am or a 2pm visit, with limited spaces, so early booking is advised. Call: 0871 871 6020 or email: silver@theassayoffice.co.uk

Industry News |

New plans for London Jewellery Week 2012 ow in its fifth year, London Jewellery Week has announced plans and changes for the 2012 event. The showcase for jewellery brands and designer talent will be taking place a week later than previous years to incorporate the 2012 social and jewellery calendars and will now run from Monday 11th June until Sunday 17th June 2012. The Jewellery Show has been officially chosen as the 2012 trade partner of LJW and following this year’s one-day trade show, The Jewellery Show London will be a two-day trade event taking place on 12th and 13th June and held at Somerset House. The show will be followed directly by the consumer show – and one of the cornerstone events of the week – Treasure. Some brands and jewellery designers will exhibit at both events and some suppliers will be trade only. Another development for 2012 is the relocation of LJW to it’s new ‘home’ at Somerset House, on the Strand. The venue has played a huge part in the heritage of London and provides a heart for the various events that will take place in the City. ‘Treasure’ will take place at Somerset House from 14th June until 17th June. “We are proud to be invited to host the centrepiece of London Jewellery Week at Somerset House. Treasure has always been in inspirational venues since the first show in 2008 at the Tower of London, so this is the right move for London Jewellery Week and Treasure,” says Della Tinsley, director of LJW. The new venue will enable us to expand Essence, the Ethical Jewellery pavilion further and create other specialist pavilions, alongside the exciting introduction of the trade days.

Winsor Bishop unveils store expansion n 27th September, family-run independent jeweller Winsor Bishop, which has been a part of the Norwich City landscape for 175, opened the doors to its newly extended store. The ribbon was cut by managing director Sophie Fulford who took over the reins from her father, Robert Croyden eight years ago. The restoration, which has taken a year, involved buying the premises next door and knocking-through to create one large space – now more than twice the size of the original shop. This has allowed for a series of boutiques for the high-end watch brands that are exclusive to Winsor Bishop such as Patek Philippe, Panerei, Hublot and Breitling as well as Rolex, Tag Heuer and Omega. The larger store will now appeal to a broader range of customers by introducing more affordable brands such as Missoma, Hoxton and Links of London.

More updates for RJC he Responsible Jewellery Council has announced that FRED, the Paris-based jewellery retailer has achieved certification, meeting the human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC’s Member Certification System. Other businesses that achieved certification last month include Swiss watch manufacturer Baume et Mercier; Swiss watch and jewellery brand Piaget; Antwerp-based Star Diamond Group, Yaelstar and AMC NV; diamond cutting and polishing manufacturer Dalumi Europe and New York diamond manufacturing company Lazare Kaplan.

S N I P P E T S New touch screen watch launched by Swatch Swiss fashion brand Swatch has introduced ‘Touch’, a colourful line of timepieces with big-screen LCD dials and a touch-sensitive zone in place of push buttons. The screen will give access to six digital functions – time, date, chrono, alarm, timer and beep – with a backlight to assure readability under all conditions. The digital numerals are set-off against a black background, while the plastic cases are colour-matched to the silicone straps (RRP £100). New attractions for Dubai show Dubai International Jewellery Show (10th13th November, 2011), which attracts around 300 exhibitors from 30 countries, will feature a number of new attractions this year. These will include a jewellery fashion show; a special area for ‘luxury jewellery‘; the Dubai Jewellery Awards – with categories for both newcomer as well as established designers and an ‘online social business matching service’. www.thejewelleryshow.com Bentley and Skinner hosts Akelo show Piccadilly jeweller Bentley & Skinner is to host an exhibition to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Italian goldsmith and sculptor Andrea Cagnetti, known artistically as Akelo who creates jewellery and golden objects – all unique pieces. “Objects of such sublime quality appear only occasionally throughout history, when an artist demonstrates an ability to meet the challenges of ancient techniques, redeveloping them however in an original way”, commented Mary Pixley, curator of European and American art and archaeology. Bentley & Skinner will host the exhibition from 2nd - 19th November.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Call for creative industries action new report from the the CBI says that the creative industries sector is expected to employ 1.3 million people by 2013, potentially making it larger than financial services. But, it warns that in order for the sector to meet its potential, urgent action is needed to train people to the required skills levels. “First and foremost we must ensure that all young people leave school with a strong grasp of the basics. Solid maths and science ability is particularly vital,” says Susan Anderson, CBI director for education and skills. “These companies also expect a more detailed knowledge of IT and benefit from people with broader creative skills, so the Government must adapt the curriculum to meet these needs.” “As well as getting the basics right at a school level, we want to see greater collaboration between universities and companies so that courses keep up-to-date with the realities and needs of today’s creative industries market,” she added. “It’s also crucial that we continue to develop the skills of the current workforce. Apprenticeships are an important way of achieving this and the Government needs to press ahead with its plans to reduce bureaucracy and break down barriers to entry for smaller firms.” Commenting on the CBI’s call, Michael Hoare, the NAG’s CEO says “The missing component in most creative degrees is business awareness. I don’t think graduates are short of creativity, good ideas, or basic manual skills, what they lack is any understanding of business processes, and this is the key interface where universities and businesses should co-operate. Over recent years the financial sector has been pretty good at giving students on sandwich courses work experience that often ultimately ends up in a job offer. The creative industries should take a leaf out of their book. Having said that, our new JET Pro course is ideal for graduate entrants into retail who need business skills. ”

S N I P P E T S Fine jewellery for Boden

Out of dirt... comes palladium he streets of London may not actually be paved with gold, but apparently, nestling amongst the grime lie minute particles of palladium. Waste management company Veolia is to extract the precious metal from the tens of thousands of tons of dust recovered from the roads and pavements of Britain’s cities each year. If the scheme proves successful, the firm plans to recycle other metals from the debris. A new processing plant near Rugby will sift through 30,000 of road sweepings allowing 90 per cent of the debris to be recycled. After filtering, shaking, spinning and sieving the resulting fine grey dust is treated with chemicals and passed through membranes to extract the palladium. Veolia estimates that it will extract 5kg of the metal annually, worth £80,000.

The hugely successful British fashion brand Boden has introduced its first collection of fine jewellery in sterling silver. The line comprises charms, bracelets, necklace and a pendant and retail between £35 and £135. Previously the brand had limited its jewellery to accessory pieces in other, non-precious materials. The collection is available online only. www.boden.co.uk Stephen Webster bridal line Award-winning British jewellery designer Stephen Webster is launching his first collection of engagement and wedding rings. Inspired by traditional styles but with a contemporary twist the rings are in 18ct white, yellow and rose gold and set with Forever™ diamonds crafted by Dali Diamond. “For us, this is an important new step”, says Webster. “At a moment that more and more consumers are questioning the origins and journey of the diamonds they buy, the Forevermark™ diamonds used in our new collection provide a major reassurance and a seal of quality.

New face of Ortak

Jewellery & Giftware Ball

ctress Sarah Parish, star of TV shows such as Cutting It and Mistresses has been unveiled as the new face of Ortak jewellery for 2011/12 – taking over from Carol Smilie and her daughter. Sarah stars in the company’s new marketing campaign which rolled out across its fifteen UK stores and online at www.ortak.co.uk last month. Ortak’s team of in-house designers, Clare T Goodall and Laura Christie, created the new collections, which include ‘A Walk in the Woods’, ‘Luna’, ‘Harvest’ and ‘Kooky’, using hot glass enamel and intricately crafted sterling silver.

This year’s Jewellery & Giftware Ball, held in aid of the British Jewellery Giftware & Finishing Federation Benevolent Society will take place on 1st December at the Clarendon Suites in Birmingham. The NEC Champagne Cocktail reception will be followed by a fourcourse dinner then dancing to a rock’n’roll band. Tickets are £550+VAT for a table of ten or £59+VAT per person. For details contact Lynn Snead on 0121 744 1046

10 The Jeweller October 2011

| Industry News

Harriet Kelsall wins national award arriet Kelsall, founder and managing director of bespoke jewellery design company Harriet Kelsall Jewellery has been named Woman of the Year 2011 at the Specsavers Everywoman in Retail Awards. It was the top prize of the glittering ceremony which was held at London’s Savoy hotel last month. Harriet had been shortlisted in the Entrepreneur of the Year category but went on to triumph over all of the other nominees to clinch the award. The judges said that “Harriet’s vision, innovative approach and success makes her an outstanding role model who will inspire more women to choose a career in retail. The Woman of the Year Award recognises the woman who is a truly inspirational and visionary individual and Harriet Kelsall is an exceptional role model for the industry”. Kelsall started the business in 1998 from her spare bedroom and in just over 10 years she now employs nearly 30 staff with an annual turnover of £1.5 million. Harriet said: “I am absolutely amazed and thrilled to receive this award, it is a huge honour and to be recognised by the retail industry for our efforts and successes is very rewarding. I see this as an award for the whole team rather than being just about me. They are so brilliant and we all passionately drive the business forward together.”

PureJewels triumph at Lonmin Awards esigners supported by London-based jewellery retailer PureJewels scooped four of the eight prestigious, platinum-based Lonmin Design Innovation Awards. On show on the Johnson Matthey stand at IJL were pieces by Anthony Roussel, Sarah Ho and Laura Strand (in the Emerging Designer category) and Anna Loucah in the Established Designer category. Other winners of the competition, created to promote platinum as well as raise the design standards of contemporary jewellery, were Leyla Abdollahi, Alexander Davis, Zoe Harding and Fei Liu.

Theo Fennell hits the road to find ad models ritish jeweller Theo Fennell has opted for an unusual way of promoting its first fine silver jewellery collection, Alias. In June this year it launched the Alias ‘Open Road’ project in partnership with online style magazine Dazed Digital. The Alias and Dazed teams attended five of the UK’s top festivals this summer, casting for individuals with a unique sense of style to be part of the Alias ‘family’ for its Spring/Summer 2012 advertising campaign. At the end of the tour a voting system was in place to allow the public to vote for who they considered to have the most individual style. The finalists each won a £1000 gift voucher to spend on the Alias collection and the opportunity to feature in the forthcoming Alias ad campaign. Glastonbury attendee Jen Popplewell from Leeds and Charlene O’Rourke from Kent who was spotted at the Isle of Wight festival were the two winners.

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S N I P P E T S Gemvision partners Holts Gemvision’s Matrix jewellery design software – the latest version of which was launched at IJL – is to feature in a new jewellery manufacturing training scheme run by Holts Academy of Jewellery, based in Hatton Garden. The Industry Certified CAD Design qualification (ICCD) is the first in the UK to follow standards set by the industry and recognised qualification bodies, which leads to a Level 3 Diploma in Precious Metal CAD CAM. Hulquist launches UK showroom Precious Juice Agencies which runs Danish fashion jewellery brand Hulquist in the UK has opened a new showroom in World’s End, Chelsea, London. Working on short orders the company is taking orders and top-ups from now until Christmas, while the Spring 2012 collection will be available in November. Having once sold solely though lifestyle and fashion stores, Hulquist is now proving to be a costconscious addition to an increasing number of jewellery retailers. F Hinds award winner Birmingham based Sian Hughes has scooped a jewellery design Award, sponsored by high street jewellery retailer F. Hinds and IJL. Hughes, who operates from her workshop in the Jewellery Quarter, won the ‘Newly Established Designer Category’ of the ‘High Street by Design’ competition with her Folded Heart Collection. Gemworld, Munich Following its restructure in 2009, gems and jewellery will play an even stronger role in Munich’s international trade fair aimed at the mineral and fossil scene. There will now be four separate areas at the Munich Show, including Gemworld – for precious stones and fine jewellery, and Stoneworld – for fine stone accessories. 1,250 exhibitors from 56 countries will show at the fair which will run from 28th-30th October at the Trade Fair Centre. Gemworld will also show the famous blue Wittelsbach Diamond.

SILVER AND STAINLESS STEEL JEWELLERY FOR MEN NEW 2012 COLLECTION To become an authorised stockist, contact Sales on T: 01376 532 000 E: sales@geckojewellery.com

| NAG News

The NAG at IJL 2011

or as long as we can remember, the NAG has been lending its industry-recognised support to London’s biggest and brightest jewellery show – International Jewellery London (IJL). And this year was no different, as Luke Street staff descended on Earls Court 2 to spread the good word of the association's tireless work on behalf of retail jewellers up and down the country. In a change to previous shows, this year the NAG set up stall with our friends at the British Jewellers Association (BJA), to continue to promote our flourishing ‘Grow Your Own’ campaign and report on our work over the last year. Located near to the Boulevard

Runway and opposite the Inspire Seminar Theatre, the NAG stand offered snacks and champagne to visitors as a welcome break from pounding the aisles and viewing new jewellery trends. While weary buyers rested their feet they were entertained by our friendly team, with issues such as security, training, and community problems facing retail jewellers today up for discussion. Over the four days, guests were able to attend a number of enlightening talks ranging from the formation of diamonds, to utilising social media and boosting retail sales. The NAG lent their support as ever, by hosting a seminar by Mark Beale, current president of

the Metropolitan Police Flying Squad. His ‘Keep It Simple’ talk outlined the straightforward, yet often overlooked security details that could make the difference when it comes to being targeted by criminals. Added to this was another NAG seminar, this time given by Alan Townsend, ExMetropolitan Police Flying Squad and SaferGems advocate, who gave a talk on the effectiveness of the SaferGems scheme, which has seen another successful year. Mike King from Action for Market Towns joined IJL on Tuesday, after impressing Council Members back in March with his workshop billed as ‘An interactive workshop focused on specific aspects of market towns’. So, another IJL came to a close, but it lives on in spirit – as the inspiring words spoken during the four days will begin to forge the future for the industry over the next year. A sentiment shared by NAG CEO Michael Hoare. “The Inspiration Theatre gave us all a huge amount to think about over the coming months, with its range of thought-provoking and educational talks,” he says. “I really enjoyed a lot of the seminar programme, and the catwalk showed off some real gems, if you’ll excuse the pun. All in all, the whole show seemed to have a great buzz about it and I thought it proved yet again what a vital role IJL plays in not only the purchase of stock but also the exchange of ideas that will pave the way for the Christmas period and beyond.”

NAG endorses Gem-A gemmology course he NAG has recently endorsed The Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s (Gem-A) newly updated Foundation in Gemmology course. Graduates of the course will receive their Certificate in Gemmology and may then use the designation ‘Cert. GA’ after their names. Should they wish to pursue their studies further, they may proceed to Gem-A’s renowned Diploma in Gemmology, leading to eligibility for election to full Gem-A Fellowship (FGA) status. Valuers wishing to become NAG Institute Registered Valuers (IRV) will require the Gem-A Diploma in Gemmology and be of Gem-A Fellowship Status (FGAs), or have an equivalent level of gemmological training.

14 The Jeweller October 2011

Michael Hoare, NAG CEO, said: “For many years the NAG has provided a gem course for its members. Gemstones are a vital component of jewellery, and knowledge of gemmology is essential for many of those in the trade. Nevertheless, gem education is a specialist and rapidly evolving field. This newly updated course provides an excellent introduction to the identification of the gems that retailers and valuers are likely to encounter in jewellery and covers value and quality factors.”

Dr Jack Ogden, Gem-A CEO, said: “Gem-A was born 100 years ago as an NAG committee, set up to develop gem education for UK jewellery retailers. It is now a separate organisation, an educational charity offering gemmology courses worldwide.” Gem-A’s Foundation in Gemmology course may be studied at home by a unique blend of conventional distance learning and e-learning (with some practical face-to-face seminars), in London at evening or day classes. For more details about Gem-A education please visit: www.gem-a.com/education.aspx For more information about the NAG visit: www.jewellers-online.org For information on the NAG Institute of Registered Valuers go to www.jewelleryvaluers.org

NAG News |

IRV – looking after ‘your money’ he day before IJL started, the NAG’s own Jonathan Lambert appeared on the BBC Your Money programme to discuss the relative worth of having treasured items regularly valued for insurance purposes. Following on from NAG research surrounding the issue, Lambert appeared on the show to discuss how retail jewellers are part of a group that includes more than six million home owners whose jewellery and family heirlooms are not correctly valued. The issue comes to light as many have found that in the case of loss or theft of these items, insurance companies are unwilling to match the original price of the item without a trusted valuation certificate. Speaking from his position as chairman of the NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers, Lambert outlined “the minute cost of valuing an item, compared to the amount lost if an insurance company decides not to pay out”. Lambert’s comments come after a wave of reports within the industry about proper valuations, and a number of customers being stung when an insurance company is unable or unwilling to pay out to replace the items. With the price of silver at nine times its value 10 years ago, and gold prices rocketing up a further 50 per cent over the last year, it’s important that both jewellers and homeowners alike undertake valuations of their most precious items. With the relative value of jewellery increasing through these difficult financial times, it’s important that customers and retailers are protecting themselves against further loss by taking heed from these calls. To see Lambert’s comments first-hand, visit the BBC ‘Your Money’ website, and click on the link ‘Under-Insurance Warning For Millions’. For more information on how to approach a valuation, you can either contact your insurance provider to see what’s required when insuring valuable items, the valuers they trust, and how to get a valuation. Alternatively, you can contact the IRV by email: irv@jewellers-online.org

NAG Council & Forum on Belfast he next Council & Forum will be held on 18th October 2011 on board the historical HMS Belfast and is most definitely a NAG event not to be missed. As always the invitation is open to all NAG members… so please do not miss out! Apart from NAG business, the day’s proceedings will also involve a guided tour throughout the ship followed by a three course lunch in the fascinating surrounding of The Gun Room. If you would like to attend

or to learn further details, please contact Ritu Verma on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: ritu@jeweller-online.org

New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Allied Applications Clogau Gold of Wales Ltd, Bodelwyddan, Wales Gold-N-Diamonds, Atlanta, Georgia, USA Icegrade Group Ltd (MRFS Group), Kingston-Upon-Thames Prakash Gem Merchant & Jeweller, Harborne, Birmingham

Alumni Associate Applications Jonathan Paul Tabard, Tadworth, Surrey

Alumni Fellow Applications Michelle Knust, Enfield, London Sarah Ann Medhurst, Bedford

NAG education and training – selling to Chinese customers hinese customers already account for about 30 per cent of the luxury goods market in Britain and, on average, each Chinese tourist spends double the amount of an American tourist and come to the UK all year round, not just at peak times. Added to this, Chinese tourist numbers are predicted to double by 2014. This is why the NAG’s ‘Selling to Chinese Customers’ training course makes such sense to jewellery retailers. Facilitated by Virada Training, the one-day course (date and location to be confirmed) was created specifically for sales people working in the luxury retail sector and tells you everything you need to know about dealing with Chinese customers. It includes practical advice on dealing with the cultural differences; the dos and don’ts that can make or break a sale and top tips to close more sales and get more Chinese customers. The course covers five core areas: China and Chinese customers; Chinese cultural influences on shopping behavior; interacting with Chinese customers; adapting your sales approach for Chinese customers and key phrases in Mandarin you need to know For a brochure or to book a place contact: Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

NAG member of the Month This issue Amy Oliver speaks to Jon Beadle of Beadle & Hill Ltd in Carlisle, Cumbria which opened in 1976 and has been an NAG member since 1977. Jon celebrates his 50th anniversary in the trade this year. Congratulations on your very significant anniversary! How did you mark the day? There were 40 of us at the celebrations – including staff and customers. We took a box at Carlisle Racecourse on Ladies Night on 1st August and sponsored a race and presented a trophy to the winning owners. There was a marquee in which we had Antwerp Diamonds, Pequignet Watches and Ti-Sento Jewellery displaying their goods, and as a special treat we provided an 18ct yellow gold and steel Ladies Pequignet Diamond set watch valued at £1,720, which a lucky race goer won in a free draw on the night. The evening proved a great success for all concerned and the ladies certainly enjoyed looking at the jewellery. On the actual date when I first started in the jewellery trade – 9th October – my staff and I will be having a special meal together at a rather nice hotel in the Lake District. How do think the jewellery industry has changed over the last 50 years? Have there been any particular trends that are noteworthy? The trade has changed enormously over the past 50 years. There are a lot more multiples than there were when I started. With the advent of shopping channels and the internet it has certainly made our task of selling a lot more challenging. We have learned to be much more pro-active.

There have been a number of trends that stand out in the memory. In the mid ’70s the ingot craze was amazing, as well as the amount of 9ct three-bar gate bracelets we sold. In the late ’90s we got involved in importing lapis lazuli globes from China which proved very popular for a couple of years. The past few years of course have seen the rise of the bead and charm link phenomenon. Do you have any predictions for the industry in the near future? Predictions for the future are not easy; if they were we all would be millionaires! Who would have thought gold would have reached such a high price? Certain watch houses are getting very dictatorial, and I can see that getting worse. It would not surprise me if they opened their own shops and did away with traditional jewellers. I think the good independent jeweller needs to be very aware of fast changing trends and also have a good bespoke side to his normal business. There will always be, I hope, a demand for the best quality and great service combined with an excellent knowledge of our trade. What, at the moment, is the best selling jewellery at Beadle & Hill? Diamonds are still very strong, particularly single stones and half hoops in white gold or platinum. Specialist cut diamonds are also making their mark, such as the ‘Phoenix’ cut range of diamonds. Ti-Sento silver jewellery,

Tianguis Jackson silver jewellery and Nomination links are also very strong sellers. Have you ever thought of expanding Beadle & Hill? I started Beadle and Hill in 1976 in a small shop in Fisher Street, and have moved to bigger premises over the intervening years, until two years ago when we decided to downsize to our present location. We do not sell the large items such as canteens of cutlery, silver holloware, crystal glasses etc, so we don’t need as much space for display. In the late ’70s we did have another shop in Penrith for a number of years, but it did not prove very successful so we decided to move to bigger premises in Carlisle and concentrate all our efforts into one shop. The business joined the NAG very early on… What prompted you to join and subsequently remain in membership? The information and services that the NAG gives to its members is invaluable. Knowledge is power no matter what trade you are working in, so I had no hesitation in applying to become a member and would encourage any aspiring jeweller to join. Every issue we ask our Member of the Month for a memorable story about a customer – does one spring to mind? There are many such stories about customers, but very few that I would dare divulge at this moment in time! However, one that sticks in my mind is the day that Bobby Stokoe came into the shop. As I am from Sunderland, and he was the manager of SAFC when Sunderland beat Leeds Utd in the 1973 FA Cup, it was a great thrill meeting him. He also showed me his FA Winners medal. If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, please write in and tell us why! Send an email to: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org

16 The Jeweller October 2011

| NAG News: Education & Training

Two students become Bransom Award winners n this month’s issue, we’re celebrating not one, but two JET 1 projects as winners of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award. Held in conjunction with our friends at Bransom Retail Systems, each month, the NAG’s education department enters the best JET 1 assignments into a competition for ‘best project’. Selected by the external examiners, the award gives students the chance to be rewarded with a trip to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of certificate at our annual student award ceremony. Looking back to July, the first of our two winners, is Victoria Jolly of The Jewellery Outlet in York. Victoria has created a project that was described as ‘highly commendable’ by the external marker,

I found the course both enjoyable and challenging. I’d taken the time to do some extra research, which obviously really helped when it came to the project. The course itself has been hard, but I’ve really enjoyed it. It’s given me so much more confidence in my customer service and sales abilities. and the piece she submitted clearly reflects a huge amount of talent. When we caught up with Victoria to ask how it felt to be named as one of the project winners she told us: “I was so surprised to get the phone call. I worked extremely hard on the project, so it’s wonderful to receive the recognition. I found the course both enjoyable and challenging. I’d taken the time to do some extra research, which obviously really helped when it came to the project. The course itself has been hard, but I’ve really enjoyed it. It’s given me so much more confidence in my customer service and sales abilities. I’d like to thank everyone who’s supported me through the course and I hope I can continue this hard work in the day to day job and beyond.” Commenting on the quality of Victoria’s project, her course tutor said: “She has been a very good student who has shown great commitment to the course.

18 The Jeweller October 2011

Her research and presentation have been of the highest standard resulting in top marks.” The project marker, who graded the project, informed us that “Victoria produced extremely good answers for each assignment. I am particularly impressed with the content and the presentation of the project. It is highly commendable. The project answer is particularly good because Victoria has taken each of the four Cs and explained its meaning and relevance to diamond grading. It is clear she has given a great deal of serious thought to just how each section has been worded; this helps the reader follow the train of thought. Numerous feasible practical solutions were put forward as to the possible ways of using the diamond ring, and each were explained fully and with a sound dialogue methodology that was refreshing to read. Really well done to Victoria, who’s a very worthy winner of the Bransom Award for July.”

ur second student to be recognised, is August winner, Wai-on Leon Li of Mappin & Web in Guilford. Another very worthy recipient of the award, Leon’s tutor Michelle McCormick thought that Leon’s assignments were always on time and well presented, which made it a pleasure to read and mark. “His work is always easy to read – a quality that will stand him in good stead in his future studies,” she says. “He demonstrated a ‘professional attitude’ in presenting product knowledge in a selling situation. There is no doubt Leon makes a personal contribution to his company’s professional sales team.” In addition the project moderator felt that: “There is one word to describe the quality of this final piece of JET 1 online assignment work, and that word is ‘OUTSTANDING’! Leon has described the four Cs in a really clever and interesting way. He has given an overview of the whole story of the four Cs and has demonstrated a clear understanding of customers’ desires and the role that a sales person needs to play. The use of modern technology to assist in sales has been implemented too. This project clearly shows us that Leon has a full understanding about the four Cs, product knowledge and the needs of a customer. This is a superb project which also could also be used to assist in staff training. All five assignments have been of excellent standard and well presented too. I’m glad to announce Leon as the winner of the August award. It’s extremely well deserved.” It’s clear from these comments that Leon takes his work very seriously. A feeling that

NAG News: Education & Training | was definitely felt when we broke the news to Leon. “I was delighted to hear from the education department that I’d won. It was really unexpected, but I’m so pleased,” he says. “The course itself was amazing. I’d been planning to do it for ages and it was only now, with the support of my regional manager, I could take it on. I’ve been in the industry for about three years now, and have been slowly gaining experience until I felt the time was right to take the JET 1 course.

Having taken the course now, I realise I should’ve done it a long time ago.

Having taken the course now, I realise I should’ve done it a long time ago. My tutor, Michelle was greatly supportive, and the tutorials she hosted to guide us along were of great help. I’d like to thank Michelle, and Charles O’Costa (my regional manager) for all the support during the course. It’s been a great learning experience, and I’d definitely recommend everyone who’s joining the jewellery industry to do Jet 1.” Once again, we’d like to congratulate our winners on their extremely hard work, and hope they continue their great successes. Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate

and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. For more information on the JET courses, go to www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom visit: www.bransom.co.uk

NAG introduces new security programme adly, the jewellery sector remains a high-risk target for organised and violent criminal activity. Faced with the everincreasing occurrences of armed robbery the NAG’s education and training department is introducing a new one-day security programme for its members. The seminar – ‘Armed Robbery – Reducing the Risk and Improving Profitability’ – will be facilitated by leading UK risk consultancy TFS and will be held later this month (date to be confirmed). The programme will examine the human reaction to the impact of a robbery and will

provide a number of practical skills that have been shown to work in real life situations. Simple and easy to remember tactics will be demonstrated to address preventative measures and delegates will be shown how to deal with an attack and remain safe throughout. Post-scene management will also be covered. Delivered by an experienced team of security professionals, this masterclass event will provide a significant return on investment, that includes a supporting CD training module for immediate use within a business.

During the programme you will learn how to: disrupt a potential attack; display safe staff behaviours during a robbery; observe and collect important descriptive data; correctly report the event to police; and establish what motivates criminals to attack a certain business? What would always deter them? The level of violence used or threatened. For more information on the programme contact Amanda White at the NAG on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

Contact the National Association of Goldsmiths on: Email: Tel: Web:

nag@jewellers-online.org 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org

The Voice of the Industry 19

| NAG News: IRV Review

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

The IRV Email Group – a vital link for valuers/jewellers and a valuable source of knowledge and experience From time to time the IRV pages in The Jeweller draw attention to some of the subjects that are raised through the IRV Email Group network. It can make for extremely insightful reading says Sandra Page. here’s a great deal of knowledge and experience out there and by simply sending an email members of the IRV Email Group are able to tap into this resource. Other members might be able to assist with all manner of topics relating to our trade – and often not just relating to valuing. For instance, the IRV Email Group can be used to: find suppliers/manufacturers to help you with a job, or help you learn more about the less famous makes and designers; seek help with valuing/sourcing the unusual, rare or specialist pieces such as natural black pearls, bronze trophies, civic regalia, ecclesiastical items, designer/ retailer-specific pieces, etc; find out more about unique engravings, commemorative coins, commissioned wristwatches and so the list goes on. Horological items often come in for valuation or repair – whether they are clocks

20 The Jeweller October 2011

This image and bottom left: items that have featured in IRV Email Group discussions

And it’s not just the rare and unusual that you might need help with valuing – recent emails have thrown up amber, aquamarine, branded diamonds and coloured diamonds. Fellow IRVers might also be able to shed some light on silver pieces, perhaps help to identify the makers, age, and value of pieces, whether they are ‘home-grown’, continental or from further afield. And then there are the reproduction pieces – those that are clearly ‘marketed’ and those made to deceive. Added to all of the above are any issues which need to be brought to Group members’ attention. This might include: the care required in dealing with clients; guidance on how best to value items imported from abroad, or those that have been embellished or ‘adapted’. The IRV Email Group also provides an ideal platform to offer to others items that are no longer required such as tools, books etc; hear about the latest press coverage and news about our industry and let another Group member know if you believe you’ve recently seen the item they now have in their possession. The Institute is extremely grateful to those members of the Group who regularly help their fellow Group members with their enquiries, in short, the idea behind the Group would not work without them. If you would like to join the Group, either to benefit from the expertise and knowledge of its members, or to contribute and assist it, please contact Sandra Page, the IRV’s co-ordinator, at: irv@jewellers-online.org All in the trade are welcome to join.

Loughborough underway!

or watches. In this instance Group members will be able to help with information on makers, as well as restoration and values, whether the item is a Rolex or Vertex, Bueche Girod or Omega – and every other make in timepiece history. Members can also help to identify unusual marks – including those ‘hallmarks’ that in fact aren’t hallmarks at all (and you may find others who have also come across the same marks).

As we go to press the IRV’s Loughborough Conference has just taken place. The Institute welcomed over 140 delegates to the annual event held at Loughborough university, a full report of which will appear in the November issue of The Jeweller.

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BJA News |

The outlook’s fair! he weather has been something of a preoccupation in the news media recently, with the natural turbulence reflecting the battering of global economies. So as Hurricanes Irene and Katia fade into the history books, what is the outlook for the jewellery industry? Although national and international gloom and doom continues unabated, the news closer to home would appear to be more promising. Exhibitor numbers at this year’s International Jewellery London were high and attendance figures were up by a small percentage, to stand at close to 10,000. Feedback from BJA member firms was, as is ever the case, somewhat mixed, but I know of a number of both large and small businesses, across a diverse range of products, which enjoyed excellent trading. For the first time ever the BJA and the NAG joined forces for the show with a combined stand and a joint message as ‘The Voice of the Industry’. Together we provided a strong and united front regarding industry specific topics such as security issues and ethical trading.

IJL provided the BJA with an opportunity to showcase our recently revamped website www.bja.org.uk which was prominently displayed on a large flat TV-style screen on the stand and was available online throughout the fair. Feedback was extremely positive and many visitors were genuinely amazed to discover the wealth of useful features that the site now offers the industry. If you haven’t visited it yet do go. I also urge all those members who have not yet taken advantage of the new, online ‘update your details’ facility, in the Member’s Area of the site, to do so. This will help you to keep your company’s online profile fresh and your product images current. The site provides a fantastic and comprehensive, year-round, sourcing facility for buyers seeking out products and services and if you’re not in, you could miss out. Another coup for the BJA was Kickstart. This group stand for designer makers is sponsored by IJL and curated by The BJA’s Lindsey Straughton and Aldyth Crowther who both choose and mentor those who

take part. The stand not only looked extremely stylish, but also showcased some exciting products proving a magnet to buyers at the show. This initiaMike Hughes, chairman of the BJA tive which is now in its third year has been a tremendous launch pad for a growing number of up-andcoming jewellery businesses and it was gratifying to see so many previous KickStarters taking their own stands at the show this year. So what conclusions can we draw? Are we all in for stormy weather in our business lives in the months to come, or will Christmas be clement? Personally after such a successful IJL, I prefer to think the outlook’s fair!

Michael Hughes, Chairman

Balagan wins award at Autumn Fair International his year the Autumn Fair International, which was held at NEC Birmingham last month, offered a new award – given by the fair organisers EMAP and the BJA’s sister association British Travelgoods and Accessories Association (BTAA). ‘Best New Collection’ at the show put the spotlight on British brands and individual designermakers producing cutting edge travel goods, handbags and accessories to the highest standard and BJA member Balagan Jewellery was one of the two runner-up recipients of the award. BTAA chief executive Diana Fiveash said “we are overjoyed to be running this competition in conjunction with EMAP at Autumn Fair International. We’ve had so many new innovative designs following on with the latest trends. Our judges have had a fun but difficult time selecting the shortlisted products.”

Rachel Parkin of Balagan on their stand at IJL

The BJA’s Anna Gibson attended the event and discovered an impressive line up of brands providing a broad choice of jewellery styles. “Particularly outstanding were the cutting edge designs which gave a refreshing look to high quality yet wellpriced and wearable fashion jewellery. Many of the autumn collections took their inspiration from elements found in forests, with dramatic colours including the latest trends in metallic tones such as rose gold.

The passion and enthusiasm of designers of wholesale silver jewellery provided diverse and unique individuality,” she reports. “The choice was endless, from companies importing high-quality, ethnic-style, fashionably funky necklaces and bangles, to designers offering very individual, quirky pieces. Added to this, the catwalk provided a really inspirational showcase of new trends for buyers.”

Balagan necklace

The Voice of the Industry 23

Boodles

Putting on the

competition. Send your photos to the editor (bmorris@colony.co.uk) by 12th December and we’ll award a special afternoon tea and ‘experience’ prize to the best entry. The top three entries will also receive a bottle of Champagne and we’ll publish our favourites in the New Year.

Judy Head on Christmas display trends… •

Have you got Christmas all wrapped up, display-wise? Here are some pearls of wisdom on creating the best seasonal windows and a few inspirational ideas from Christmas past… f you haven’t already planned how your Christmas windows are going to look this year, it might be a good idea to think about it now! You could, of course, drag out the tired old decs from the back of the stock room and hope for the best. Better though to give seasonal sales figures a bit of a boost with displays that will really lure the gift-hunters.

24 The Jeweller October 2011

This selection of festive window displays from a handful of cutting edge jewellery stores and global brands might provide artistic food for thought and creative consultant Judy Head offers her expert advice on making the best of what you’ve got. And because we know you’ve got it in you, we hope you might feel inspired to enter our ‘Best Window Display of Christmas 2011’

Last year we saw the return of theme dressing and lively displays with dramatic lighting and props. This year the trend is still is even more theatrical with 3D effects, giant photographs and layers of Cartier

Feature | backdrops so that the stock appears lit within a framework of the fantasy theme. •

Lots of backlit images and warm colours – subtle gold and brown this year rather than the bold red and silver of 2010.

•

A harder, more commercial edge has been seen in windows recently – giant images of the stock or pictures of models wearing a selection of stock seen laid out beneath it. These images reflect the advertising campaign being run by the brand, remind the consumer of the promotion and the retailer that they have a limited amount of time to maximise the opportunity!

Christmas display by Judy Head using jewellery by Lapponia

Asprey

No matter how grim the economic forecast may be, the consumer will spend money on gifts and make it a happy family occasion.

•

Christmas is still the major season for consumer spend, and the big stores – and many small independents – view the sales figures for the last quarter of the year as an indicator of the sales trends to come. But Christmas is always Christmas. No matter how grim the economic forecast may be, the consumer will spend money on gifts and make it a happy family occasion. So the stores allocate large

Chopard

budgets for visual merchandising, and the window displays and interior displays are planned 12 months or more in advance. Sadly, many jewellers do not invest in their displays, and so cannot be surprised that their figures reflect their general lack of interest and confidence.

Rox

•

With so much at stake and so many more retailers and e-tailers selling jewellery, it is more important than ever to present the stock in an imaginative and exciting way to stop those potential buyers in the street and persuade them to take the first step in the sales process – walk through the door of your shop.

The Voice of the Industry 25

| Feature …and tips for creating a great Christmas display: •

Invest in new clean display stands and props – and throw away the tired tinsel and broken Christmas bells. Try putting in two or three areas of free dressed display using images and props to create drama

•

Clutter creates confusion. Limit the amount you put in the front window and use a few simple speaker tickers about one or two unusual pieces to pull people through the door.

Solange Azagury-Partridge

•

Make it really easy to see the stock and encourage your customers to ask for further information, a catalogue or leaflet. You could even offer them a mince pie and a glass of bubbly

•

Dress the interior of the store to reflect the window display – make it adventurous and exciting

•

Try a fantasy theme – even a story – and create a window that will stop passers-by in their tracks

•

Change the layout of the windows to reflect the type of product that poten-

Theo Fennell

tial customers might be looking for. For example, it is the season for engagements so perhaps a larger than usual display of engagement rings and other betrothal gifts, illustrated with images of young love. Or maybe a small display about the history of the betrothal ring, some famous love matches or a competition for the most unusual engagement. •

•

Tiffany & Co.

26 The Jeweller October 2011

Use quotes, testimonials or simple messages printed on vinyl and placed on the inside of your window to encourage customers to walk through the door Make sure you have the name of your shop at eye level in the window. If your customer sees something they like, you want them to remember where they saw it

•

This is the moment to throw out nonperforming brands and put in some interesting pieces that will appeal to your market

•

Try accessorising a life size photographic image with real jewellery

•

Use animation. For example, a screen with slide or video display, or lights that flicker to resemble candlelight Bulgari

The Voice of the Industry 27

Diamond certificates – our survey says... Last month members of the NAG were surveyed on the issue of diamond certification and, as we suspected, it’s a thorny subject. s consumers’ disposable income has declined they are shopping around more for ‘best value’. In fact recent surveys indicate that most customers of engagement rings research diamonds on the internet prior to making a purchase. They are also more likely to seek reassurance that their purchase represents real value for money; often relying on diamond certificates for this purpose. Yet retailers and valuers often report to the NAG that they believe certain certificates are “not worth the paper they’re written on”, and some laboratories “constantly exaggerate their grades by up to four grades higher than others”. If this is indeed the case, can any certificates be relied upon to represent the ‘true’ qualities, and therefore the value, of a diamond? Also, if some jewellers turn their diamond stock over to these certificates to give the illusion of better value, are the public being deceived? And at the same time, are some retailers being penalised for looking expensive when compared to such exaggerated grades? As customers are now being encouraged to see diamonds as a ‘commodity’ they might expect an international standard to allow

28 The Jeweller October 2011

them to ‘compare apples with apples’. Is the variability of certain certificates making comparative shopping a futile exercise? The response to these questions makes for very interesting reading: for instance, almost all those surveyed (87.3 per cent) felt that the seeking by customers of a certificate was becoming widespread, yet no-one was of the opinion that all certificates/ laboratories are equal. A fairly conclusive number (90.5 per cent) agreed that there should be an international standard for diamond certification, given that inconsistent certificates present a problem

many others admitted they simply didn’t know. As for who might police any standard… the jury’s definitely out on that one! The issue is by no means straightforward. “It is impossible to set a benchmark and criteria that every retailer would adhere to,” said one respondent, adding that “as an industry there is too much self interest and profit motive. In an ideal world it would be wonderful if we were all singing from the same hymn sheet, but I do not think this will happen in my lifetime.” Finally, we asked for a few personal views on diamond certification. The feedback was pretty revealing: • “I think the fact there is no criteria for certificating diamonds means that you cannot compare, for example, a GIA certificated diamond to an IGI certificated diamond. You can only compare when it is the same company certifcating the diamond. I believe the current system is very confusing for customers because they are not always getting what they are paying for” • “Who would pay for the policing? It would have to be an accredited body. In the UK the NMO would over see it. Could CIBJO have a role in this? Artificially overstated certificates are just as serious as artificial stone treatments”. • “They are a nuisance to the retail trade in that they have ‘commoditised’ diamonds, whereas they should be sold on their appearance/performance and value”. • “I rather thought that the whole point of originally introducing certification (decades ago) was to create an industry standard. It’s a pity it has been adulterated to such a point that we are discussing introducing a new standard! Sad times”

But who should set such a standard? Many admitted they simply didn’t know. As for who might police any standard… the jury’s definitely out on that one! to the customers/insurers of 80 per cent of the respondents. But who should set such a standard? Almost half thought GIA would be the best candidate; while a few others wondered whether CIBJO might be apt. The assay offices and NAG were also mooted, while

•

“It is not an exact science and is a subjective analysis, so an international standard would be very hard to implement and police. There are always going to be disagreements due to all sorts of conditions unless you have a select few regulated labs with exactly

Diamond Survey |

•

the same equipment and lighting conditions, but even then it is still ultimately a human opinion” “Stones should not be certificated while mounted; issuing labs should be non profit-making; [there should be] no certs for stones under .25pts.; there should not be an SI3 designation and labs should not be involved in values” “Certs are a very useful tool – men particularly like them. In general customers don’t understand them. It’s up to retailers to have the expertise to explain them”. “We ALWAYS inform customers that certificates are an OPINION only, carrying no weight in law, and are purely the viewpoint of the individual grader who examined the stone. They exist only as added reassurance to the consumer, but should never be relied on in isolation – always seek the help of a knowledgable retailer or diamond dealer!”

“Stones should not be certificated while mounted; issuing labs should be non profit-making…” •

•

“There are very few labs that the reputable diamond dealers respect and this should be followed by reputable retail jewellers. However the less respected labs give shops an unfair advantage by grading too generously. Most knowledgable jewellers know this but many still choose to use these certs because they can sell the stones cheaper and it gives them an advantage”. “Most retailers are well aware of the difference in the quality of certificates and anybody representing a lesser report as the same as the best reports, without fully explaining the differences, is deliberately setting out to deceive their customers” “The internet holds far too much information, which becomes confusing and customers may well feel that the ‘certificate’ takes away much of their confusion. They may understand carat and colour and a little of clarity BUT

•

there is no way that the average customer has any idea of whether or not they are purchasing a well cut and made diamond” “Customers have no idea that they are ‘paying an upcharge’ for the certificate which they can avoid if they use wellinformed educated ‘fair’ jewellers who impart their knowledge in educating the customer about their purchase”. “Customers have been brainwashed by ‘marketeers’ to expect a certificated diamond; they expect a certificate

•

for diamond engagement rings BUT never mention the topic for pendants or diamond ear studs”. “Some customers just want the bit of paper to say it’s a diamond – colour etc seems less important to them. They want value for money, a piece of paper to say its diamond… and this is how the cheaper certs are being used. It’s another tool to help sell a bog standard item. We would prefer one standard to apply to all diamonds – there is a big difference between certs”.

NAG Diamond Survey Results Do your customers research diamonds on the internet before purchase? Yes: 52.4% No: 0 Sometimes: 47.6%

Do your customers seek the reassurance of a diamond certificate?

Yes: 42.8% No: 3.2% Sometimes: 54%

Do you think this is becoming more widespread in the trade?

Yes: 87.3% No: 4.8% Maybe: 7.9%

Do diamond certificates enable customers to make a fair comparison between diamonds/shops? Yes: 3.2% No: 37.1% To some extent: 59.7%

Should there be an international standard for diamond certification?

Yes: 90.5% No: 9.5%

Do you think inconsistent certificates present a problem to customers/insurers?

Yes: 81% No: 0 Sometimes: 19%

Do you think all certificates/ laboratories are equal?

Yes: 0 No: 98.4% Sometimes: 1.6%

The Voice of the Industry 29

Wonderful, wonderful

Copenhagen! The NAG’s Henrik Dinesen visited the recent Copenhagen Jewellery Fair to discover how the Scandinavian jewellery industry is faring and if its design is worth further investigation. sk your average high street shopper what products they associate with Denmark and you’d probably get a combination of Danish bacon, Lego, Carlsberg or all three. However due to the recent expansion of Danish jewellery suppliers into the UK market it is now just as likely your interviewees will be sporting a Danish-designed charm bracelet, necklace or ring. Yet despite this increase in interest and knowledge of Danish and Scandinavian design, our nearneighbours are often overlooked. A good starting point to explore this influential market is a visit to the Copenhagen Jewellery Fair, the largest jewellery and watch trade fair in Scandinavia. The August 2011 event comprised around 200 different exhibitors, mainly from Denmark and the other Scandinavian countries as well as a few from Europe and further afield. All aspects of the industry were covered, from fashion jewellery, gem stones and watches through to hollowware, casting technology and security. The fair attracted 6,381 visitors over its four days which was unfortunately a sizeable decline from the previous year’s figure of

30 The Jeweller October 2011

7,152. However this wasn’t all bad news as international visitors grew 16 per cent relative to 2010 giving Christoffer Ritzau, managing director of the Danish Jewellers’ Association (who helped organise the fair), something to be pleased about. “The growing number of international buyers reflects the positive international focus for Danish suppliers and manufacturers who are currently generating their growth on the international markets,” he explained. “However, the fair saw a decline in the number of Danish buyers, where purchasing power is being influenced by the problems we know too well – an imminent election, uncertainty regarding the global economy, high savings levels and inactive consumers.” Competitors in the Bella Nordic Jewellery Awards

Beyond the exhibition stands there was plenty more going on at the show. The Bella Nordic Jewellery Award added a glamorous element to the proceedings. Being held for the fifth time, it is the biggest competition for goldsmiths in the Nordic region. The competition finalists were ten skilled goldsmiths from Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden, who competed over three days of the show to produce a piece of jewellery. The glamour and crowds were evident on the Sunday when the winner, Charlotte Christina Larsen from Denmark, received her 50,000 Danish kroner first prize from HRH Princess Marie, the award’s patron. New talented designer-makers were also given a chance to shine through the Brand New Copenhagen 2011 initiative. Each upand-coming designer was given his or her own display cabinets located in the Brand New section, right in the centre of the fair. This allowed potential buyers to peruse their creations as well as giving them the chance to win the Brand New Award. Twenty different designers from numerous countries took advantage of the minimal cost to exhibit. This year’s winner was Frans Middelhoek from the Netherlands, who won the use of an exhibition stand at next year’s fair. Frans Middelhoek

Away from main business of the show, the Copenhagen Jewellery Fair also offered strategic and academic lectures as well as workshops and fashion exhibits. One keenly attended lecture outlined the upcoming autumn and winter trends in the jewellery industry. This was given by the editor of the Danish Goldsmith Association’s trade magazine AuClock and all-round jewellery expert – Nina Hald. Hald predicted that black would likely dominate once again. “Black is always a sure thing – the most classic colour, which you can never go wrong with,” she announced. However it would not all be dark – “rich

Feature |

colours will serve as a counterweight to the jet-black theme; every company presents its interpretation of the season’s palette especially through the use of specific gemstones. Warm colours combined with gold (or gilt); cooler shades with silver. The colours are usually intense, with a natural focus on pearls which come in many shades – both natural and dyed,” she continued. “Three jewellery categories will primarily dominate the profiling of coming collections: bangles, sautoirs and chokers. Chokers will never become a mainstream necklace category, so in reality the tight neck creations sold will be short necklaces with more conventional pendants. The alternative is very long, thin necklaces, such as silver chains divided by the collections’ individual motifs.” She also mentioned other trends – punched metal work, including bangles and rings, would also be popular especially with motifs such as hearts or stars ‘stamped’ out of the metal. Minimalism would be the overriding style with stars as a favourite motif. Abstract motifs would also be a feature including elongated drops and eternal circles. Overall the mood at the fair was upbeat with both retailers and suppliers optimistic for the future. Ritzau has been working hard to promote Danish jewellery suppliers on the international stage, so as to take full advantage of the recent growing interest. Coming from a strategy and marketing background, he has been keen to build a strong brand for Danish jewellery design abroad. “The supply side of the Danish jewellery industry has come far in building up business across borders, following in the footsteps of Georg Jensen, Trollbeads and Pandora. We are always looking for new ways or new partners to help build our suppliers’ businesses internationally,” he explained. Seeing the relatively small size of the Danish jewellery industry as advantageous rather than a hindrance, Ritzau is presently working on a website that will act as a collective on-line store for the whole of the industry – www.danishjewelery.com will allow

buyers to browse the jewellery collections of the major companies through to the small designer-makers, all on one site. This should also help to combat one of the major problems facing Danish jewellery suppliers; the selling of reproductions of their original designs abroad. Some jewellery ranges can take years to reach certain international markets, by which time local manufacturers have brought out their own versions of the design. The new website will give instant access to the world market and thus the ability to export the original design from day one. If enough suppliers join the website, it should be a very strong tool for the Danish jewellery industry. Ritzau is hoping to launch the website in three months time, firstly targeting English-speaking markets. After being hit by the financial crisis followed by political uncertainty, Danish retailers have had a hard time of late. However sales are now slowly on the increase and with an election called, the future looks positive. Line Bech, managing director of the National Jeweller and Watchmaker Association, believes the crisis has been a catalyst for change. “Customers have fundamentally changed and the retailers are adapting to this, though it will take time,” she said. “Their businesses have to be more service minded; listening to the wants of the consumer, changing their stock accordingly and dealing with customers’ needs even if they occur outside traditional working hours.” The other major problem facing retailers is crime. Europe’s open borders have led to

huge increases in burglaries by mainly East European gangs, making the police’s work, stretching across several international borders, extremely difficult and arrests are rare. This has put insurance premiums through the roof and some jewellery retailers even struggle to find an insurance company willing to work with them. The response has been to set a crime prevention scheme, similar to the NAG’s SaferGems, bringing together all the various retailers, from across the country, in partnership with the police. The venture is still in its infancy but the early indications are good.

The Copenhagen Jewellery Fair was a small and friendly show. It may not have the footfall of other international jewellery exhibitions but there are plenty of networking opportunities. If Scandinavian design is of particular interest to your business then it is well worth a visit. Although with the continued growth in the influence of the Scandinavian jewellery industry, this may well become one of the premier events on the international jewellery circuit.

The response has been to set a crime prevention scheme, similar to the NAG’s SaferGems, bringing together all the various retailers in partnership with the police.

The Voice of the Industry 31

| Security

Conference on serious crime Michael Hoare offers some shocking crime statistics as revealed at a recent security symposium, but counters these with a few encouraging SaferGems successes. aferGems colleagues Dick Hanks, Alan Townsend and Lee Henderson were in the spotlight recently when they gave a presentation to other security industry professionals at the IBP Focus on Robbery and Serious Crime Symposium on Hayling Island. The event attracts the most knowledgeable people in the sector, as well as some interested bystanders such as me, and this year the excellent results achieved by SaferGems from a standing start two years ago were applauded by the industry. Readers of this column will be well aware of these successes but it was a great pleasure for the team to receive the recognition of their peers.

Graham Sunderland concentrated on repeat victimisation and noted that criminals often re-visit the scenes of their crime. Research also shows that the more often you are the victim of crime the greater the chances of being attacked again. It is astonishing to hear that in the UK, four per cent of people suffer 44 per cent of all crime; 59 per cent of retail crime is against only three per cent of premises; 75 per cent of all repeat robberies are committed by the same offenders and 19 per cent of armed robbers returned for a subsequent attack. Kevin Tasker from the Centre for Crisis Psychology talked about the effect that robberies have on victims. Experiencing or

Although 40 per cent of victims suffer no reaction, 60 per cent will suffer significant psychological and physical symptoms which may last for years. Highlights of a packed agenda included Graham Mott, from LINK who demonstrated the level of intelligence and organisation employed by ATM fraudsters who commit crimes against the 64,000 machines that dispense more than 70 per cent of the UK’s cash. Crimes range from mugging ATM clients, which results in relatively low rewards – but has the greatest impact on the victim – to skimming which has least impact on victims, but the highest reward for the criminal. While the UK and Germany suffer the most card fraud, with 2.1 million machines worldwide, the numbers must escalate internationally. Biometric identity solutions could virtually eliminate card fraud but customers’ concerns about access to biometric data limit its use to date.

32 The Jeweller October 2011

witnessing verbal or physical assault or threats of death and serious injury leave victims feeling frightened, helpless, distressed, withdrawn and angry. And it can also lead to feelings of survivor guilt. Thankfully most robbers are appeased by money and most victims don’t get injured. But, although 40 per cent of victims suffer no reaction, 60 per cent will suffer significant psychological and physical symptoms which may last for years.

SaferGems colleagues Lee Henderson, Alan Townsend and Dick Hanks

SaferGems edited highlights It’s not every day that you circulate a picture of a JCB digger in connection with a jewellery theft, but mid way through the month the team received some intelligence about the theft of a pair of JCBs. One had already been used to attack a cash centre in the West Midlands and the fear was that the other might play a part in a jewellery robbery. This time the call was just for extra vigilance, but it just goes to show the lengths that robbers will go to. Next day the team were on the case of a man suspected of using cloned credit cards for purchases of high value goods in Edinburgh. No threat of violence, but a cache of cloned cards, and a request for information from other potential victims was issued. Distraction thieves were in the frame the following day, using a well known distraction technique to get away with gold bracelets valued at over £600. Unluckily for them, they have now been linked to similar offences in Staffordshire, Hampshire and Suffolk. So when the net finally closes on them the charge sheet might be a bit longer than they anticipated. There was no subtlety employed by our next set of offenders, who threatened staff at a Yorkshire jewellers’ with weapons in an attempt to steal. Their vehicle and MO is linked to two similar offences in same area. These are just a sample of the alerts issued over a three week period at the end of August. Others included attacks by males previously known to have visited a shop posing as customers; a distraction leading to the theft of a watch valued at over £19,000; and intelligence concerning international diamond thieves believed to be in London during IJL – a good illustration of the variety of cases handled by our team. If you’ve something to report, get in touch on 0845 272 7802 or visit: www.safergems.org

The Voice of the Industry 33

| Ethical Jeweller

DIAMONDS

in the way of peace so that war never returned to his country. The historical conflicts in Sierra Leone, Angola, Cote D’Ivoire or, currently, DR Congo and Zimbabwe are real and continue to have a devastating impact on the lives of the poor, their communities and the infrastructure of those countries. Diamonds as we all know have been a very real driver in prolonging those conflicts. The tragedy of war is the legacy of ruined generations and 10 years of the KP does not mean everything is now OK. Historically these conflict stones have enriched us all and not a penny has ever been paid in reparations by the traders who greedily enriched themselves on the backs of these conflicts. This is why certain sections of the diamond industry who now so proudly boast about their founding support for the Kimberley Process, face such a moral dilemma. To call for the reinstatement of Zimbabwe diamond exports under the auspices of the KP is to deny the very founding principles of the KP and is clear hypocrisy. One senior member of the diamond fraternity is on record as saying at the 34th World Diamond Congress in 2010: “Now I would like to ask each and everyone of us to consider whether opposing

and Human Rights

Greg Valerio is known as a fearless campaigner who does not mince words or shy away from awkward issues. In this article he sets out the measures that he feels the Kimberley Process must accept if it is to regain the moral high ground and the confidence of the trade. While Greg’s views may make uncomfortable reading, we reproduce them in the interest of informed debate. f diamonds were potatoes we would all have burnt our fingers to a crisp long ago. I confess this article will not read well by those who have invested into diamonds purely as dealers. Diamonds are a human rights issue in their own right and given the rapid decline in the credibility of the Kimberley Process (KP) in the last 12 months they will undoubtedly continue to be one. Let me explain. Firstly let’s start at source. As I have pointed out many times over the years, small-scale miners make up the overwhelming majority of people employed in the mining sector.

34 The Jeweller October 2011

More than a million African artisanal diamond diggers and their families live and work in absolute poverty, outside the formal economy, in countries struggling to recover from the ravages of war. I have witnessed this truth in recent months as I have begun a new phase of my journey in jewellery through establishing a partnership with Fairtrade Africa – a cooperative movement among artisan miners in Africa. An elderly man with a prosthetic limb approached me on a recent trip to Sierra Leone, shook my hand and asked if I would educate his grandchildren

the legitimisation of Zimbabwe diamond exports benefits the citizens of that country or hurts them. After that, we can also ask ourselves whether we helped or hurt the diamond and jewellery industries the world over and all the people that make a respectable, honest living in it?” These very same miners and citizens have been imprisoned, gunshipped off the diamond fields, illegally detained and tortured in secret camps. As a jeweller the question I have to ask myself is: “Do I want such a diamond in my shop?” Obviously the answer to that question is NO.

Ethical Jeweller | The Kimberley Process and Zimbabwe “Miners, retailers, and consumers have relied on the Kimberley Process to stop blood diamonds from being sold, but with Chairman Yamba’s decision, the KP has betrayed their trust,” said Arvind Ganesan, business and human rights director at Human Rights Watch. “Governments and companies should ignore his decision unless they want to make blood diamonds available to consumers and ruin the credibility of the Kimberley Process as well.” As of the 5th September 2011 the Kimberley Process website has Zimbabwe listed as being in full compliance with the KP. These blood diamonds – as the August BBC Panorama programme aired and Human Rights Watch has shown – continue to be stones that enrich the elite, persecute the poor, suppress and censor the voice of truth and systemically abuse human rights. It would seem therefore that there is a clash of values at the very core of the diamond story that manifests itself in the question: “What is more important, human rights or making money at any price”. I am the first to admit that these two ideas are not mutually exclusive, yet in the heavily politicised diamond world, agreement is hard come by and confusion abounds. And it is here that I am critical of The World Diamond Council, the body established to act as the governance framework for the KP. Firstly it welcomed the legal export of stones from Marange in 2010. Then in less than six months it cautiously re-welcomed the introduction of exports from Marange, but asks members to apply due diligence on all stones coming from Marange. Yet the fact remains that the human rights abuses in the diamond fields of Zimbabwe have led the KP into utter confusion and division. The International Diamond Manufacturers Association alongside The Responsible Jewellery Council have all shown a distinct lack of principled leadership in their vacillation over whether Zimbabwe should be included or excluded from KP. It would appear as if all their press releases were written by lawyers. I have to be honest, given the huge body of evidence of bloody abuses and blood spilt in the Marange region, it should not be a difficult decision. Zimbabwe out!

We need a Kimberley Process that has international credibility and the tragedy is that Kimberley has become a discredited system and everyone in the industry knows it is not working. Equally this vacuum of strategic leadership means the civil society and campiagn groups are rightly becoming more vocal about the veracity of the claims about ethics and conflict being spun by the industry. Here are some of my suggestions on how the KP can begin to restore its credibility: 1. It needs a full time secretariat for KP that is representative of all stakeholders. 2. It needs to be properly funded by the diamond industry. 3. Human rights abuses need to be included in its terms of reference as a reason to be excluded from the process. 4. The KP monitor (independent of the secretariat) needs to be 100 per cent fully independent and have no political or financial interests in diamond companies.

but I believe it would mean one in which the international community can have greater faith. Also it will mean the industry would know which countries it can do business with and those it cannot. The diamond brand as sold to the consumer is the icon of luxury, aspiration and purity. We talk of flawless perfection being forged in the ancient fires of volcanic activity and we seek to immortalise our commitments of love in this rock of compressed carbon. Yet its public image is – like all things in the world of politics – not its reality and substance. We have allowed, for commercial reasons only, the intentional divorce between product and ethics and as such are now paying the price in the slow erosion of the diamond brand. For my part I would have the diamond become the new symbol of the upholding of international human rights and the promotion of peace. It may just be the redemptive angle the diamond industry has been looking for. Greg Valerio Jeweller and activist

Given the huge body of evidence of bloody abuses and blood spilt in the Marange region, it should not be a difficult decision. Zimbabwe out! 5. Cutting and polishing should be included in the process, so that there is a full, accountable and transparent supply chain from mine to retail. 6. A representative of alluvial diamond diggers should have a permanent seat on the secretariat to ensure the voice of the majority. 7. The process should be directly accountable to the United Nations. This may well lead to a smaller, leaner fit-for-purpose Kimberley Process,

The Voice of the Industry 35

| Legal Jeweller

Online retailing: how to avoid trade mark traps The internet provides new avenues for use of a third party’s trade mark and the courts have been grappling with what types of use constitute trade mark infringement. Intellectual property solicitor Holly Strube from law firm Boyes Turner explains. ll retailers – including jewellers – who sell their products online may be tempted to use a well-known brand name to attract customers who may be willing to consider an alternative to the brand they were seeking, or who have simply used the brand name as a search term to find similar products. Four key areas could give rise to liability for trade mark infringement – AdWords, meta tags, linking and domain names.

AdWords AdWords are an increasingly popular method of optimising search engine results. Advertisers can purchase (pay per click) an Adword from the search engine Google (in this instance). This results in the advertiser’s advert showing in the sponsored links section of the search results when the AdWord is typed into the search engine. However, an advertiser will infringe a registered trade mark if it uses another’s registered trade mark as an AdWord and the advert that appears after entering the AdWord as a search term does not enable the average internet user (or enables that user only with difficulty) to ascertain whether the goods or services referred to in that advert originate from the trade mark owner or an undertaking economically connected to it, or from a third party. One might think that it would be quite easy to be able to differentiate an advertisement from the trade mark proprietor’s business. However, recently questions have been referred to the European Court of Justice in Interflora v M&S regarding confusion as to the origin of goods or services arising when the competitor’s advertisement leads some members of the public to believe that the competitor is a member of the trade mark proprietor’s commercial network when it is not. We await the ECJ’s decision as to whether

36 The Jeweller October 2011

M&S will be liable for trade mark infringement for use of the word ‘Interflora’ as an AdWord. Until the outcome of this decision is known, caution should be used when considering using another’s trade mark as an AdWord.

Meta Tags The most recent case on meta tag abuse is Reed Executive plc v Reed Business Information Ltd in 2004. The Court of Appeal held that there was no trade mark infringement by the use of the words ‘Reed Business Information’ in the meta tags of the Defendant. The fact that meta tags are invisible to customers searching or visiting a website resulted in the court concluding that there can be no likelihood of confusion. However, the facts of the case were very

identical or confusingly similar to their trade mark, provided there is an element of bad faith in the registration of the domain name.

Linking It may seem helpful to website users to create a link from one website to another. This is often done by including the trade mark of the linked site on the linking site and customers can click on this to take them to the trade mark holder’s site. However, there may be circumstances where this constitutes trade mark infringement. For example, the linking site may take unfair advantage of the content on the linked site or customers viewing the website might incorrectly believe that the linked site is part of the trade mark holder’s site.

Trade mark owners are also able to apply for the transfer or cancellation of a domain name which is identical or confusingly similar to their trade mark… specific and it is possible that in a different situation the outcome could have been different. In other European countries, the courts have leaned towards finding that use of registered trade marks in meta tags constitutes trade mark infringement.

Domain Names Use of another’s trade mark in a domain name is likely to constitute trade mark infringement if it is used for similar goods or services to those for which the trade mark is registered. The position is no different to the established law on trade mark infringement. As well as bringing proceedings in the court, trade mark owners are also able to use World Intellectual Property Organisation’s arbitration and mediation centre to apply for the transfer or cancellation of a domain name which is

The case law on linking is not developed, but it is possible that use of a trade mark without the consent of the proprietor will result in a claim for passing off or trade mark infringement. It would therefore be best practice to obtain the consent of the trade mark proprietor if you wish to use a trade mark in a link. Please also note that in certain circumstances, linking can constitute copyright infringement.

Conclusion Businesses must understand the implications of using AdWords, meta tags, linking and domain names and that these do not contain any trade marks. Businesses should also ensure that their trade marks are not used by competitors in this manner. www.boyesturner.com

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| Feature

the

Jeweller Brand Profile

Lili Diamonds Belinda Morris discovers a diamond brand with stellar aspirations that are taking it into a galaxy all of its own! Meteor Cut® three stones ring

n May this year the prestigious World’s Top 10 Diamond Brands list for 2011 included a name that was a newcomer to this particular roll call of luxury businesses. The new entry, in at number eight (as Tony Blackburn might once have said) was Lili Diamonds. What’s more, there at number six, was the brand Crisscut®, of which Lili is a partner. Not bad going for a business that started out just over 50 years ago as a small polishing workshop in Israel. Arguably, it has also been the icing on the cake for a year that has seen a number of pretty exciting developments for the company which now has affiliates in New York and Hong Kong, as well as one of the biggest factories in the Israeli diamond industry – the polishing workshop employs over one hundred craftsmen.

Today Lili Diamonds is renowned for its straight edged diamonds manufacture and in particular, widely known for its innovative special cuts – globally-registered patents, including the aforementioned Crisscut® with its 85-facet configuration that highlights the stone’s length and adds a feeling of depth. At the Diamond and Jewelry Exhibition in Hong Kong in March and then at the JCK Las Vegas show in June, Lili Diamonds unveiled the latest in its impressive line-up of special cuts – the Meteor Cut®. It is the most recent piece of a lavish, carefully-compiled jigsaw that now includes a new logo, refreshed website, corporate video, updated catalogue and a hefty online publicity campaign (including, as you might expect, social media site Facebook). It’s been a busy year for Lili Diamonds!

L to R: Isaac Siman-Tov, managing director; Nadav Attar, marketing manager; Dotan Siman-Tov, managing director with two models

38 The Jeweller October 2011

Compiled by executives, consultants and affiliates of US-based management and consultancy firm United Brands, the Top Ten list, with several luxury categories, is based on several criteria such as product quality, design, performance, value, consumer recognition, brand differentiation and marketing effectiveness. “This is a highly

“It took 10 months of diligent work and persistent attempts to overcome the technical challenges, in order to cut the diamond with flawless symmetry…” esteemed honour,” acknowledges marketing manager Nadav Attar, “and it’s undoubtedly thanks to our multi-year strategy aimed at making the most of our competitive advantages – which include new branding and state-of-the-art website.” The celestial branding – you need to visit lilidiamonds.com to get the full starry effect with its 3D imaging and plethora of animations – provided the inspiration for the Meteor Cut®. Auspiciously enough it was created on the 10th day of the 10th month 2010 and is described by managing director Dotan SimanTov as a “perfectly built decagonal shape” with 10 straight walls built of 71 facets. “It took 10 months of diligent work and

persistent attempts to overcome the technical challenges, in order to cut the diamond with flawless symmetry,” he adds. “Each facet is perfectly angled so that it radiates dazzling brilliance. We know that it has great marketing potential, but we have been astounded by our clients’ response and enthusiasm – it seems that the Meteor Cut® is about to become another one of Lili Diamonds’ signature pieces.” Clearly, in a market that has seen a tremendous rise recently in consumer awareness and knowledge of diamonds (along with ever-changing preferences) it’s important to stand out from the crowd… in order to stay ahead of the game (if you’ll excuse the metaphor over-load). “We are specialised in a small niche which we call ‘Unique Designs’,” says Attar, describing the range of proprietary diamonds which are worldwide protected, “and we have a research and development department which creates new shapes according to clients’ requests or our ideas.” Sitting alongside the traditional cuts (emerald, square emerald, princess, radiant and cushion) that continue to play a major role in the business, the Crisscut®, Crisscut®Cushion, Wondercut® and Meteor Cut® offer distinctive and very different diamonds for an increasingly demanding market. The R&D team conducts surveys among designers and consumers – from various market segments – around the world, to determine what is being looked for and so arrive at innovative new directions. The Meteor Cut®

This includes tailored designs created exclusively for a company; customised to satisfy a corporate or consumer craving. It might even mean a stone cut to the shape of a company logo. Lili Diamonds also

provides its customers with matching pairs and layouts, designed to be inlaid into rings, necklaces and bracelets – the series of diamonds will be of matching carat weight, colour, clarity and cut, all perfectly complementing one another. It was in response to customer demand that in 2002 Lili Diamonds expanded its world to incorporate diamond jewellery and timepieces. It began in a modest way but today has grown to become a major part of the whole business. With designers in Hong Kong and New York – working to create for different global aesthetic sensibilities and cultural preferences – Lili Jewelry® unveils new collections throughout the year, including high-end pieces specifically for the elite luxury market. Gemologists, stone cutters, polishers and designers come together to realise the dreams, no matter how fantastical, of each client. From design blueprint and prototype to refinements and alterations, the final design is a result of exhaustive and rigorous attention to detail and quality control. Top quality stones are cherry-picked by Lili Diamonds and two further special cuts, which are exclusive to and

sold through the Lili Jewelry brand only – Lily Cut® and Orchidea®Cut easily recognisable thanks to their four petals – are added to the array of diamonds from which the fashion-led, statement jewellery pieces are created… as well as the more classic styles and bridal jewellery. Ask Nadav Attar what the best way to sell diamonds is and he replies, without hesitation: “Marketing, marketing and marketing – you need to sell the dream.” As we go to press, a quick peek at its Facebook page indicates that 7,430 people ‘like’ what they see – and that’s just two months after launching. The stellar stratagem appears to be working. www.lilidiamonds.com www.lilijewelry.com

The Voice of the Industry 39

| Opinion: John Henn

24 hours in retail

Recalling the traumatic effects of the riots and meeting the PM uesday the 9th of August dawned like any other. Amélie, our 17 month old daughter, grabbed my legs as we were preparing for nursery, leaving a trail from her wet nose across my just dry-cleaned trousers. Unusually I had my classic MGA booked in for a MOT in the afternoon… There was trouble in London and we had seen the carpet store go up in smoke – miraculously not killing anybody. Our store had opened as usual when soon after an undercover policeman came in to talk to me. “We are expecting ‘trouble at mill’,” he said, “and we would like you to take ‘appropriate precautions’. By the way, we know about ‘SaferGems’ but our man is away and we are not sure what to do.” “So is mine,” I said, “but I’ll work it out and pass it on straight away to everyone who may be affected.” I passed the warning on to SaferGems and it seemed the clock was ticking. A call came in from my part-time secretary who was on her way home – ASDA was being attacked and a mob was on the move up into the city. That gave us around 20 minutes before they arrived at Princess Street. At 3pm five of us left the store on her own. She had survived since 1935 in her current state, and the street had seen riot vans before during the 1970s and 80s.

40 The Jeweller October 2011

There was a sense of real dread about the streets and I was considering whether or not to run the gauntlet of the ring road in an open-topped very shiny classic sports car. I drove out of the city to my MOT station; she passed the test and we went home to tune into the local media. The videos on the networks during the night were crazy. Two small streets next to ours were on everywhere – we’ve all seen the footage! Although we have an elevated CCTV camera overlooking us, the police were not willing or able to give any news. Finally we received a call that confirmed the store had been attacked but there was no evidence anyone had effected an entry. We went to sleep relieved. The old girl had stood firm in the face of a determined, if pointless, assault. Had more effort been directed at one particular point the outcome may have been different, but as it was the 11.5mm laminated bandit glass had done its job. Several thousand pounds and a quantity of mascara and she would be her old self again. Was it all over? The authorities could not be sure so up went the wood. Wednesday the 10th of August was quite eventful. Once we’d established that the broom-wielding mob walking towards us

were the clean-up squad, and not the second wave, the refreshments arrived! Bottles of water, cakes, biscuits and chocolates were brought in by well-wishers and clients alike. Next I was shaking hands with the Mayor of Wolverhampton – alarmingly he wasn’t letting go until the local paper had the best shot. He promised that his office would help with any requests for help I could think of. For starters I was considering those planners who’d turned down my application for a full shuttered frontage four years earlier. I’d like to meet them outside my store at noon, pens drawn. Next in was our local MP – he was also very sympathetic and explained that a VVIP might be coming to the city later in the day and would I be free to meet him? I could not remember who he was batting for, but agreed anyway. So later that day I and another dozen or so retailers, big and small, found ourselves shaking hands with the PM himself. What a delightful and immensely skilled man! He recapped his day so far, who he had met and what he had learnt.

Frankly he must have started at dawn and not stopped since and it was only 2.30pm. After us he was off to meet the parents of the three dead young men in Birmingham. Mr Cameron summarised what we had discussed and, after promising to bring up our points in ’the house’ the next day, he was gone. True to his word ’planning obstructions for security shuttering in cities like Wolverhampton should be looked at for high risk businesses’ was reported from parliament the very next morning. So ended quite an extraordinary day. We left at 5.30 with the last piece of wood screwed into place over the entrance. As I type this I am pleased to report the make-up case has been put away for another day and the quotations for external shutters with the ’cyanide rain’ feature (I’m joking… or am I?) are dropping on my desk.

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it Diamonds

Showstoppers The BJA’s familiar, purple unicorn logo was much on evidence on stands at this year’s IJL. Mary Brittain sought out those displaying it to discover what the Association’s many members who were exhibiting at the fair had on offer. here was plenty to see at this year’s International Jewellery London which took place from 4th – 8th September at Earls Court Two. The show, which enjoyed a two per cent increase in numbers on 2010, had a fresh look and some new attractions. The format for the fashion shows had changed to feature a catwalk that ran the entire length of the central aisle. Models, wearing eye-catching jewellery and not much else, strutted their stuff to loud music several times a day, while the on-going programme of seminars in the newly created theatre at the back of the hall featured interesting topics and added gravitas.

42 The Jeweller October 2011

So what took my eye? There seemed to me to be several trends coming through strongly. Black is undoubtedly the new black and whether it was Whitby jet mixed with gold and diamonds from C W Sellors; Alexander Davis’s Dendritic carbon fibre, shiny, black cuff with silver and gold-plated spheres or Shaun Leane’s iconic ‘Blackthorn’ collection featuring dark pearls and black spinel set in silver, it demanded attention. Still on the black theme, oxidised silver was ubiquitous, with LA10 using it to effect across its ranges. It also looked good when mixed with silver and 22ct gold vermeil by Kokkino. Blackened 18ct gold

was the feature of Fiore della Notte, a new collaboration between Jersey Pearl and designer Annaloucah. Dome-shaped rings were de rigeur and brightly-coloured cabochon stones featured in many new collections. Domino’s ‘Sassolini’ range in yellow gold has been designed to stack and at retail prices around £300, to bring precious jewellery to a younger audience. At the other end of the price spectrum, Andrew Geoghegan’s wonderfully asymmetric ‘Satellite’ cocktail rings with their open shanks and diamond details were pure sophistication. Also domed was the prize-winning ‘Stardust Collection’ from Jian, which scooped the technical innovation award at the show. The best way to describe this concept is to imagine a child’s ‘snow shaker’ toy but to substitute the ‘snow’ for precious stones floating in a liquid filled sapphire dome to provide continual movement and sparkle. A great selling point for retailers is that the ‘domes’ (the most costly part of the concept) can be screwed onto different-sized ring shanks for efficient stock control. Platinum was much in evidence. The stunning pieces that won the Lonmin sponsored Design Innovation Awards were on display on the Johnson Matthey stand with no fewer than four of the eight winning designs coming from BJA members. It was also BJA members, Sarah Jordan, Dennis & Lavery and Fei Lui, who triumphed in the PGI’s Platinum Trail at the show. Another trend spotted throughout the show was for the weird and whacky. Birmingham cufflink producer Deakin & Francis was inundated with enquiries for its recently launched ‘Eccentric Collection’ of silver and enamel cufflinks featuring everything from

Deakin & Francis

BJA Feature | chilli peppers and bananas through to shrimps and handguns. If it’s quirky you want, then jewellery doesn’t come much funkier than that produced by Jianhui whose stand was also sporting chilli-inspired designs in brightly coloured glass. Also a little off-the-wall – unless that is you are a fan of mega-popular computer phenomena – is The Sims 3™, Jeremy Hoye’s new collection based on the ‘Plumbob’, the virtual green stone which is central to this game. New to IJL and great value was IT Diamonds, a cleverly packaged and marketed rhodium-plated brass alloy collection with diamond accents from Nathan & Stock. Also new and competitively priced was OSO (One Season Only) from Paul Kennedy. As the name suggests this is a high fashion range, in various materials, which will be changed twice yearly to meet the latest fashion trends. Buy while you can…

Those looking for the innovative, were naturally drawn to the KickStart stand, sponsored by IJL and organised by the BJA. The stand is now in its third year and is a proven launch pad for new talent as proven by the growing number of ex-KickStarters exhibiting solo at the show. These included

GemVision, suppliers of CAD jewellery solutions, showcased ‘Counter Sketch’ a design tool for retailers to use in store which allows them not only to create bespoke wedding jewellery designs for their customers, but also to have them manufactured for them by the US jewellery giant Stuller.

Black is undoubtedly the new black and, whether it was Whitby jet mixed with gold and diamonds or dark pearls and black spinel set in silver, it demanded attention. Alexander Simpson, Daisy Knight and Momocreatura to name but a few. Of course IJL is not just about jewellery and the BJA had many members providing new products and services to jewellery producers. Sutton Tools was offering two exclusive new implements from the USA – a saw and an anticlastic raising stake – while

“Feedback from our members following any show is always a little mixed,” says the BJA’s marketing manager, Lindsey Straughton, “but I am pleased to say that most of those to whom I spoke seemed to have had good trading at IJL. The KickStart Designers debuted well, which was unsurprising as between them they had produced real showstoppers.”

BJA members setting the trends at IJL... New at the show…

Domed

it Diamonds (main picture opposite page) offers 36 designs in rhodium-plated brass alloy with diamond accents. RRPs £25-50

‘Stardust Collection’ from Jian is available in sterling silver, 18ct gold or platinum with semi-precious stones, diamonds, rubies or sapphires. RRPs from £195 (silver) to £12,495 (18ct and 3cts of diamonds).

Practical ‘Knew Concepts’ lightweight, anodised aluminium saw in various sizes from Sutton Tools. Prices from £31.50 - £45 +VAT.

Another newcomer OSO – a versatile collection from Paul Kennedy that combines sterling silver with crystal and coloured cords – the colours varying according to the story. The Glacier collection consists of organic shapes, some solid, some open. RRP £110

The Voice of the Industry 43

| BJA Feature Back to black Below: Interchangeable Cross Heart pendant in 9ct gold and Whitby jet from W Hammond, part of C W Sellors group.

Above: Ruthenium plated silver ring and plain silver ring with pearls from the LA10 Collection by Celtic Art. Trade prices are £88.50 (plated) and £60 unplated. Right: Fiore della Notte is the fleur-de-lys inspired collection by Jersey Pearl in collaboration with Annaloucah featuring 18ct blackened gold, Akoya pearls and fairmined Tanzananian rubies. RRP £1,500-£3,500

Prize winning

Rising Talent

Whacky

The icing on the cake of ‘a hugely successful show’ for Dennis & Lavery was winning not one but two Platinum Trail awards: the Best Commercial Design for the Vortex tri-set shown here and Retailers’ Choice Award for Best Platinum Experience RRP Tri-set £1,980 - £2760

Spirit is the name of Alexandra Simpson’s new collection of necklaces, earrings and other pieces that centre around a threepetal sterling silver flower. It is set with a tanzanite stone and a tear drop freshwater pearl swings below. RRP: £32 - £5,000

A small selection of the many silver and enamel cufflink designs by Deakin & Francis RRPs up to approx £300.

Sarah Jordan’s award-winning platinum Oasis Rings with 0.52ct brilliant cut diamond. RRP £5,250

44 The Jeweller October 2011

BJA Feature |

Simon says! BJA CEO Simon Rainer looks at how ethical practices can be achievable if those in the jewellery industry work together ne of the greatest marketing tools in the corporate armoury is the phrase ‘public opinion’. The cynic in me believes that a small groundswell of consumer reaction can be manipulated to then represent mainstream thought, which of course can never be supported by empirical evidence. And this, in my opinion, is what the UK jewellery industry will shortly be subject to in the matters of ethical sourcing; with jewellery businesses increasingly having to provide evidence of sustainable corporate social responsibility practices. In the UK, we are experiencing a gentle groundswell of increasing consumer demand for ethically sourced jewellery products. At the other end of the supply chain, the aspiring designer makers are earnestly bringing ethically produced products to market, thus meeting consumer demand, albeit at the niche, higher reaches of the jewellery market. My question is: what is the jewellery industry going to do when consumer demand for ethical products goes mainstream and forward-looking manufacturers cite ‘public opinion’ as their modus operandi for bringing

supply chain is transparent. Just take a look at the foodstuffs and cotton industries. Does the jewellery supply chain offer any similar consumer assurances in the exact provenance of the product? And behind all of this concern is that too much knowledge is probably a dangerous thing. Does the consumer for example need to know of the workings of the Kimberley Process and the inter-country disagreements? I would argue not. All the consumer needs to know is that the diamond they buy meets all of their aspirational, aesthetic and humanitarian needs. The question is how do we meet those needs? As a mature jewellery market, the UK is facing many challenges – none more so than economic pressures and the rising cost of raw materials. As the momentum towards ethically sourced jewellery increases, we as an industry must be responsible for constantly adding value to our products. Just imagine for a moment that you are a retailer whose USP is that you can absolutely conclusively demonstrate to every consumer the provenance of every item you sell.

Just imagine for a moment that you are a retailer whose USP is that you can absolutely conclusively demonstrate to every consumer the provenance of every item you sell. What a great sales pitch that would be! such products to market? Where will the industry then stand? Most recently, I was approached by a new UK supplier who aims to take ethically sourced jewellery to the mass market. It won’t be long before others follow. As a pragmatist and marketer, I applaud the supply of product to meet consumer demand. My biggest fear however is that as an industry we are not ready to provide a united front on the moves we are making to demonstrate that the traceability in the

What a great sales pitch that would be! If this industry is to survive and grow that’s exactly the information we all need to be telling our customers. In the BJA’s attempt to address this issue, a small working party has been formed with the NAG to firstly understand the issues and then work with UK industry to provide constructive trade and consumer guidance. Meeting recently with a group of NGOs demonstrated two key requirements – we were prepared to engage and have dialogue.

It was apparent that the issues faced by the jewellery industry are not unique and have been solved by other industries. The challenge is to find like for like comparisons and propose change on that basis. Our main question to them all was very straightforward – if you represented the UK jewellery industry, what would you do to effect change? Their feedback included the requirements for us to understand what is currently going on in the international markets regarding raising standards, traceability and transparency. We were advised to

understand the implications of the Dodds Frank Act, the new European version currently in discussions, the workings of the Bristol Bay initiative, the Fairtrade/Fairmined gold supply chain, the IRMA initiatives, the new OECD regulations, the workings of the RJC, CIBJO guidelines in addition to many more sources of information. The key pieces of advice resulting from our meeting were not to be overly ambitious, and to understand where the gaps are in the current initiatives. Taking this advice has led us to conclude that we are all in this for the long haul. However, our short term objective is to provide clear and concise industry guidance notes. In other words, providing qualitative and sufficient empirical evidence for valued and informed opinions to be made.

The Voice of the Industry 45

| BJA Feature

Christmas Sparkle Add a touch of dazzling glamour to your Christmas offer with this selection of beautiful pieces from BJA members.

Miripuri

Tomasz Donocik

This Crystal collection from Chinese-born, London-based designer Jianhui comprises retro-style cluster clip-on earrings, snake bracelet and choker with cubic zirconia flowers. www.jianhui.co.uk

Mischa

Created in tribute to Vincent van Gogh and inspired by his Starry Night paintings is Mischa's luxury Statement Ring Collection, which is available in 18ct rose or yellow gold vermeil or sterling silver and set with gemstones. www.mischa.co.uk

Award-winning fine jewellery designer Tomasz Donocik is inspired by the sinister side of natural beauty – as witnessed by the venus fly trap for instance. This Venus Bombay ring is in 18ct rose gold set with tsavorite. www.tomaszdonocik.com

Sho Fine Jewellery

The motivation for Sarah Ho’s coin collection was the ancient Chinese coin which was said to bring fortune and success. Each year Sarah’s grandfather would give her such a coin. The Coin Boule rings are in 18ct gold and set with white and cognac diamonds with pink sapphires or blue and yellow sapphires and tsavorites. www.shojewellery.com

Germes

Designer Saveria Geronimi’s Crystalis collection is hand-made from silver and features a slave bracelet with Swarovki crystal ball (available in white or black) with a chain connected to a silver band ring. www.germesboutique.com

46 The Jeweller October 2011

Mirroring the flamboyant plumage of the exotic Bird of Paradise, the Paradiso collection captures the dramatic spread of its elongated tail feathers. Each sterling silver piece is available in either a plain style or inset with faceted marquise gemstones. www.miripurijewellery.com

Jianhui

Arabel Lebrusan

Spanish-born Arabel fuses traditional artistry with modern design and sustainable practices. This Diamond Leaf flower ring is made in 18ct recycled white gold and set with 1.1ct VVS diamonds that catch the light from all directions. www.arabellebrusan.com

tic ke On t- lin pr eom ot ion

Best Baltic Amber

To see more or for further information please contact us on tel: 01494 524124 or email: anna@mayanna.com

Oct. 28 - 30, 2011 Meet the international Gemworld in Munich ! Join one of Europe's most important gem and jewellery exhibitions and meet over 250 exhibitors from around the globe at the Gemworld Munich 2011. Get in contact with industry leaders and discover new suppliers who have just entered the European market. For more information and to register online visit www.gemworldmunich.com.

www.gemworldmunich.com

The Voice of the Industry 47

Diamonds â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as sought-after as ever, regardless of price. But clever design, canny marketing, thorough knowledge and plenty of passion are everything, discovers Belinda Morris

Saying it with

Image courtesy of Domino

Diamond Feature | t would seem these days that diamonds are never out of the news. Of course, in terms of our own industry news that is just as it ought to be and it has always been the case. However, just recently they’re finding their way onto the pages of the nationals – the upcoming Christie’s sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s stupendous collection of stonking great diamond-set pieces is one such snippet that has grabbed the public’s attention. And we can gasp in amazement at the Bulgari white and blue diamond ring that sold at Bonhams last month for a whopping £1.9million (recession? what recession?). How about the recent discovery of a planet made of diamond, a mere 4,000 light years away? Then there’s De Beers taking its leave of Hatton Garden – that somewhat more

SHO Fine Jewellery

sobering story warranted a full page in the Mail on Sunday recently. The spectre of socalled blood diamonds – an ongoing issue – can also be relied upon to rise up in the press from time to time. What is the big diamond story from our trade’s perspective though? If we take the question of ethics as a given, what are the elements that are driving the market at the moment? Are diamonds (at any price) still a girl – and a jeweller’s – best friend?

Is the price right? Whichever way they move, the price of diamonds is certainly a challenge for the industry. At a seminar during IJL, Edahn Golan, editor of Idex Online (which examines the prices of both rough and polished stones) put the recent fall in prices of rough into

chronological perspective. He reminded us that after the sharp fall in 2009, there was a steep recovery in 2010, leading to a big spike in May this year. External factors like booms and recessions play their part, he added, but internal ones – like trade shows – also have their effect: prices spike before every one; recently seen in Hong Kong, Basel and Las Vegas, This is because diamonds are purchased in large amounts to prepare for fairs, which leads to increased optimism for sellers. Prices usually fall again post-show. It should also be noted that below two carats diamond prices are fairly static. Supply and demand are of course huge factors when it comes to the price of diamonds. Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group, who also gave a diamond industry talk during IJL, explained that while diamond supply is relatively stable at the moment, “demand is shifting geographically, economically, generationally, and socially towards the Far East and a younger market”. Golan agrees, pointing out that in China 80 per cent of brides last year received a diamond set wedding ring – a trend that began in Shanghai. In India good rains have led to a lot of disposable income so even more gold and diamonds are being bought for weddings. Even in Japan, which has suffered more than its fair share of disasters this year, sales of diamonds through department stores have risen over five per cent. Added to this is the fact that no new diamond mines have been discovered

Saint Maurice

Tony Tankel of HW Tankel. “It has to be – and be perceived to be – excellent value for money. Two, three, four years ago the design of the ring was more important than the diamond itself. Now that has flipped; now it’s more about the price. Customers are looking for value and then juggle the rest – like the quality of the stone, which has to look right to the end-user,” he adds. “Those retailers who are being flexible with margins are doing considerably better – especially if they are trying to compete with the internet. A diamond has to be a commodity – interesting and beautiful – but still a commodity. We have to earn a living.” “As the prices soar, jewellery aimed at certain price brackets has now been pushed into a higher category and not everyone sees the value,” adds Ariel Tivon of Tivon Fine Jewellery. “The problem is that we most often judge – physically and psychologically

“A diamond has to be a commodity – interesting and beautiful – but still a commodity. We have to earn a living…” recently – so no new sources of diamonds in the next decade – prices are sure to increase further, despite having decreased recently, is Golan’s view. During IJL I spoke to some of the exhibiting diamond and diamond jewellery suppliers. Price was certainly a recurring topic for discusion. “There’s confusion for retailers because of so much volatility,” says Sakait Kedia, managing director of SK Diamonds. “So people are buying what they need – independents still have to do business.” “It’s a highly price-sensitive market. Retailers want a diamond quality that hits a commercially-viable retail price,” explains

Corona

The Voice of the Industry 49

Diamond Pointers

PJ Watson

– with our eyes and a small jewellery item may now appear to be very expensive in relation to its physical size, thanks to the sum of its parts, i.e. very high gold and diamond prices.” Nor is the niche, bespoke designer end of the market immune to the effects of soaring costs. “The rise in polished prices has been phenomenal and together with the continuing surge in gold and platinum prices we are having to be very ‘thoughtful’ with our prices,” says jeweller Nicholas James. “We have decided that we won’t water down our ranges by trying to make lighter designs as we have spent 15 years gaining a reputation for offering substantial and weighty pieces, so we have to strategise our pricing a little more. These are challenging times and yes, there has been a negative impact on business as a result of climbing prices. It is hard to explain how, in some cases, the price of a diamond has risen 40 per cent in six weeks!

“However, with the exception of gold (which I personally think will continue to climb in price), things will settle; these higher prices will remain and the consumer will regain confidence and start to buy with a little less caution than we are seeing now.

Gemex

It must be unnerving for customers to see these continual price rises and it has put people off buying as they see instability and this in turn leads to a lack of trust in the value of the product. All we can do is explain the situation and if anything, try to ‘flip’ it by saying if prices continue rising, then now is a good time to buy. And even this month we have seen signs that people are putting their worries to one side and buying again,” he adds. When it comes to design, a certain amount of fine-tuning might have to come into play; a few tweaks to help bring down costs or maybe a whole new line that incorporates smaller stones or finer details. “Our clients are not by any means all so rich that price is immaterial, that’s only a few oligarchs and

50 The Jeweller October 2011

Jig Pattni

You don’t need to be reminded of the four Cs or how a diamond is a symbol of everlasting love, so here are a few random facts about the stone – taken from the new De Beers Jewellery book – that you (and your customers) may not have been aware of: • Traditionally, in India, a jeweller working with diamonds often lived at court and was considered as important as a physician or astrologer. • The earliest diamonds known to man were discovered in Golconda, India, where the deep, diamond-carpeted pits were said to be guarded by snakes, so miners sent birds down to pick up the diamonds. • Hindus in those early times believed that diamonds were created when lightening bolts struck rocks. • The ancient belief was that Cupid’s arrows were tipped with diamonds. • Astrologically, diamonds were associated with sacred moonlight; they were worn in battle as a symbol of courage and virtue, to imbue the wearer with magical strength and also, more practically, to deflect blows. • Diamond roughs became widely used in rings in the Roman period when they were prized for their supernatural powers of bravery and strength, and their ability to triumph over life’s tribulations. • Agnès Sorel, the beautiful but lowborn favourite mistress of Charles VII of France, is reputed to have been the first commoner to wear diamonds. • The catch phrase ‘A Diamond is Forever’ was dreamt up in 1947 by one Frances Gerety, a young New York agency copywriter. • A 13th century text stated that if a woman was incensed by her husband, relations would be soothed if she wore a diamond! • René Just Hauy, famous mineralogist wrote in 1817: ‘gemstones are the flowers of the mineral world and the fancy coloured diamond is the orchid’. • For every natural coloured diamond there are some 10,000 colourless specimens

| Diamond Feature

Goodman Morris

the whole of Bond Street is trying to seduce them at the same time,” says Stephen Webster. “We have however designed a completely new core collection that looks very contemporary, still with a SW edge but has a more open, delicate feel. I have always refused to dumb down the design.” Carli Onguc of online retail jewellery business Diamonds & Rings has noticed that customers are opting for lower diamond colour and clarities, while still being able to achieve their desired carat weight for budget. It’s a trend that Tim Sebrechts at 5C has also noticed – “an echo of three years ago when gold prices led to customers asking for very lightweight items. These days nothing is

much more than fancy cuts, has meant that for some fancies are enjoying something of a moment. “For the same quality you can get quite a bit bigger fancy cut – square are very much in fashion, as well as pear and heart shapes,” says Ricky Krochmal of Krochmal & Lieber. Neil Josyfon of Josyfon agrees that price is influencing cut. “It’s been all about rounds but for fashion pieces in particular, the difference in price between rounds and fancies has made fancies more popular; people are looking at other options – like cushions,” he says. “What’s most important is that the stone is nicely manufactured – I physically go to the market and choose it.”

Gemex also sell more rounds than any other shape, closely followed by princess cuts. “But all our stones are so well calibrated, which means that straight-edged baguettes are selling very well,” adds Lee Ruben of Gemex, “and we also do a lot of marquise, emerald and carré.” Creators of bespoke jewellery, particularly the more avante garde jewellers, find that their customers are more adventurous with their choice of diamond shapes. “People want more design from me, they’re not looking for standard,” confirms Davis. “They tend to be open-minded about the shape of a stone. If they don’t go for rounds – which carry a premium – they can get bigger for London Road

“The cut that will make or break a diamond and creates the difference between something that is ordinary and a diamond that can take your breath away” ‘cheap’ in diamond jewellery, even in the ‘first price’ segment,” he says. “Because of the economy people are being forced to be more creative – so perhaps they’re considering more smaller, maybe pavé stones,” says jewellery designer Alexander Davis. “But they still want bespoke and an engagement ring shouldn’t be skimped on. Compared to what else is spent on a wedding it’s good value!”

The cuts above The price of diamonds not only has an impact on the quality of stones retailers and consumers are choosing, but also the shape. While round stones are undoubtedly the biggest sellers – always were, always will be – the fact that prices of these have risen

52 The Jeweller October 2011

Stubbs & Co

their money. I love cushion shapes for most stones.” At Nicholas James, while round brilliants are the popular ‘safe’ choice, they’re seeing “a huge surge in demand for fancy shapes – pear and marquise in particular.” “We still find that a colourless round brilliant cut is an extremely popular and classic choice; however we are noticing a move towards some other cuts from our clients,” adds Nicky Goodman of Goodman Morris. “Rose and old cuts seem to sit well with the slightly more ‘boho’ and vintage looks that are emerging. I find myself wondering if their more subtle twinkle as opposed to the brilliant cut’s obvious fiery sparkle is a reflection of a mood of understatement. A move against conspicuous consumption and ostentation in these financially uncertain times; almost a ‘stealth wealth’ thing perhaps.”

Diamond Feature | Fei Liu

A few tips for selling diamond jewellery… Designers and manufacturers offer a few helpful hints on how to make that sale •

•

The four Cs and the question of certs The fact that the ‘four Cs’ are what contribute to the value and look of a diamond is unquestioned and some would argue that all are as important as each other. Faced with plumping for just one and you will find that there are those happy to stick their necks out. “If all else is equal my preference leans towards cut,” says Jon Phillips of Corona. The true beauty of a diamond can only be released when a diamond is cut to maximise brilliance, fire and scintillation.” Designer John Calleija agrees. “The cut is always going to be the most important – a good cut will always make the diamond dance with light and beauty. It is really the cut that will make or break a diamond and creates the difference between something that is ordinary and a diamond that can Lalique

•

Take the client’s budget, advise on the stone, colour clarity and size etc.; give them options and let them decide which path they wish to follow (Nick Aris, Majestic Jewellery) Honesty and value are key in forming a close and trusting relationship with your client (Richard Warrender, W&W) Don’t stretch the truth – the financial incentive to exaggerate the quality of a jewellery product can be significant (Jon Phillips, Corona Jewellery) You have to really work with the fantastic stories that diamonds have in jewellery. Also, demonstrate the difference between a piece that has a beautiful stone versus one without (Stephen Webster) If there’s a story to tell it’s important that the retailer and staff understand the brand and its values, as this will help to sell a piece (Sarah Ho, Sho Fine Jewellery) Enthuse the customer on the design of the ring and the designer if possible – how the designer personally selects the stone. Hook them with a ‘story’ (Andrew Geoghegan) Understand the customer’s needs and then match the ideal stone to their personality – some might prefer a larger stone to a quality one (Jig Pattni) Focus on the beauty of the piece

take your breath away.” At London jewellers W&W it is also cut that is most important to their clients, but owner Richard Warrender would add C for Client’s specifications and C for Cost – the budget in mind – to the grading system. “Most stones are pretty well cut, that’s par for the course – for me colour is the most important – more than clarity,” argues Davis. “With ratings clarity is a matter of opinion and people have preferences, but colour is very fixed and can be judged accurately. Most people can’t afford a D flawless, but with a DSI1 you can get a good stone, the flaws can’t be seen and you can’t get a better colour. Brides want perfection.” “The quality of the cut, the way it’s cut and the life of the stone once cut is of

•

that the customer is trying on – it is still, primarily, an emotional purchase (David Shem-Tov, Stubbs & Co) Sell the individual diamond, not the certificate. If the diamond looks stunning then the certificate means nothing (Phillip Beale, Charles Green) Explain the four Cs to help the buying process and show how you can ‘trade off’ one C against another and still have a beautiful stone (Russell Shor, GIA) If the retailer understands and can explain why two stones can look similar but differ a lot in price he can win the trust of the customer (Tim Sebrechts, 5C Jewelry) Take a diamond course – you need to be a pro today to guide the customer, particularly in the face of internet information… and misinformation (Ricky Krochmal, Krochmal & Lieber) Share your knowledge and passion, and take your time. Customers need to feel confident that they are making informed choices (Nicky Goodman, Goodman Morris) Follow up the sale – for instance a personal note card of appreciation, or a phone call or even flowers – great for repeat business and creating customer loyalty (Jon Phillips, Corona Jewellery)

paramount importance”, says Paul Spurgeon. ”My favourite cut of diamond is the marquise as it lends itself perfectly to the fluidity of my designs.” “The cut and shape are most important – it doesn’t matter how high or low the colour,” insists Josyfon. “People read so much on the internet and get so wound up about it. When it gets so technical that should be left to the professional – and even then I look at the diamond, not the table, particularly with fancies. A certificate wont tell you if a diamond is brown for instance.” He does however feel that certificates are important. “I don’t see it as a problem that there are different standards of certificates – as long as one is aware and it is priced accordingly.”

The Voice of the Industry 53

| Diamond Feature Charles Green

“Certificates have become more and more important because consumers have become a lot more savvy,” says Lee Ruben. “It’s so easy to go online and Google ‘diamonds’ that people think they’re experts after ten minutes. A verbal answer isn’t enough, now they want it on paper, so a certificate really helps retailers with sales.” Jeweller Jig Pattni agrees. “A certificate is reassuring to the customer – okay it affects the profit margin but it also wins trust. When selling a diamond I also mention that a certificate is like a great CV – but you need to meet the diamond to see if it’s the right stone for you.” There are those who are in two minds on the question of certificates. “It really W&W

undermines the age-old tradition of trust,” says Paul Spurgeon. “For some reason a piece of paper seems to be more important than the actual beauty and individual characteristics of a diamond and being able to recognise these characteristics. Even the top three labs vary with their results.” In the view of Ariel Tivon a certificate is “a sleep-safe factor, particularly with prices flying so high. But I believe people – consumers and the trade – at times put too much value in it. Remember, the certificate is only an opinion. A good opinion but still an opinion,” he adds. Calleija

Ethical options The issue of diamonds from Zimbabwe notwithstanding (for Greg Valerio’s view on this turn to page 34) it goes without saying that the majority of diamond jewellery manufacturers and designers are at pains to emphasise that the stones they buy are sourced with the utmost care and attention vis a vis traceability; their ethical credentials unimpeachable. So, trusting your own supplier aside, what other safeguards are available to retailers wishing to reassure customers?

Diamond Price Report now published weekly Launched on 15th September and responding to industry demand, the IDEX Diamond Price Report is now being published weekly. “What is perfect about our price report is that it takes hundreds of thousands of data points from thousands of industry players, and applies standard statistical tools to generate the report. It is driven solely by objective and consistent methodologies,” says Ehud Cohen, chairman of IDEX Online. “Objectivity and transparency in the diamond industry has always been one of IDEX’s core values. It is high time the industry received a price tool that reflects the market objectively. We look forward to continuing to answer our customers’ needs.” Intended as a guideline and available only to diamond-industry professionals, the report includes rounds and fancies, ranging in sizes from 0.18 carats to 5.99 carats. It will be available at www.idexonline.com/prices and will be inside IDEX Magazine starting with the November issue.

54 The Jeweller October 2011

Tivon

“It’s not possible to be one hundred per cent precise on the origins of rough diamonds, other than goods purchased from Russia or those bought with a Canadian certificate and mark on the girdle,” explains jeweller Paul Spurgeon. An example of the latter might be Canadian-mined Maple Leaf Diamonds which are set in Corona Jewellery. The company also belongs to the Responsible Jewellery Council, which adds further weight to its ethical credentails. Not widely available as yet, but now appearing on the horizon, are recycled diamonds. On the back of recent high prices of gold, metal recycling has become big business in most parts of the world. However, recycling diamonds is a more complex business – there are difficulties associated with correctly grading, sorting and recutting numerous small separate stones. Undaunted by such obstacles New Yorkbased White Pine Diamonds, launched in 2009 by Oxford University geology graduate Ben Burne, buys all sizes, shapes, grades and conditions of diamonds. The business model is to buy sufficient quantities of mixed sizes and shapes to then sell them as matching parcels back into the jewellery market. “This would be to recycle what is Stephen Webster

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The Voice of the Industry 55

| Diamond Feature

Shawish

estimated to be in excess of 4.5 billion carats of jewellery-grade diamonds which have been cut since the first diamonds were mined in the late 1800s,” says Tim Phillips, a geology graduate colleague of Burne’s, who has recently joined the partnership. The company is focussing on smaller sizes of diamonds which have traditionally been lower margin and harder to re-sell into the market. And as well as white diamonds, black, brown, yellow and artificially coloured diamonds will also be bought and sold. The sources for their stones are varied: excess stock, scrap and broken stones from jewellery manufacturers and left-over pulled stones from gold recycling or pawnbroking. “Despite the barriers to the recycled trade in diamonds, we feel that being an early mover into this side of the market will put us in a good position for an inevitable transition by consumers towards more environmentally-responsible and ethicallysourced jewellery,” says Phillips.

Diamond trends… It’s taken as read that rounds are far and away the most popular stones and that for wedding jewellery in particular white metal – OK, platinum – is the main choice for mounts, but that isn’t to say that diamond trends are static and safe. Especially so in the case of fashion. Rose and yellow

56 The Jeweller October 2011

gold are increasingly chosen for diamond set fashion pieces by the likes of Domino, which is also seeing a demand for vintage-look Ascher, emerald and princess cut stones and Nicholas James where rose gold and brown diamonds makes for a winning combination. “We have noticed two distinct trend directions,” says Nicky Goodman. “There’s a look that could loosely be described as contemporary classics, where brilliant cuts come into their own – clean, modern, streamlined designs, often with strong, simple graphic shapes, defined and highlighted by pavé set diamonds, for example our pavé set wave rings and the egg link or ovoid bangle.” Goodman Morris’ other strong story is the vintage/boho look. “Many of our customers are choosing coloured stones, from warm yellows, sophisticated and subtle champagnes through to richly toned chocolate brown stones,” explains Goodman. “We contrast these with textured and coloured metals;

Paul Spurgeon

championed the gothically-glamorous inky tones – as well as brown, beautifully set off by rose gold. So successful have these been that he is now introducing a wider range of coloured diamonds. Brands like Tivon and Clogau and designers such as Fei Liu are poised to add colours to their repertoire, while others like Calleija (rare pink Argyle

Recycling diamonds is a complex business – there are difficulties associated with correctly grading, sorting and recutting numerous small separate stones. lots of beaten and buffed 18ct yellow and red gold. We have a whole collection of rusty hammers for that just dug up look!” The trend towards warmer tones of red gold and nonrhodium-plated white gold set with square and rectangular stones is key at Cox & Power. Never seemingly out of fashion, black is more prevalent than ever now – identified in a recent Rapaport Diamond Conference as the first of the top three current trends. Black diamonds are the stone of choice for Jig Pattni’s white gold ‘Scenes of Love’ collection and at London Road the bright offering of gem set gold jewellery has been joined by a very striking black diamond tasseled collection. And at Domino, the ‘Trends & Fashion’ pieces now include black diamonds and Stephen Webster has always Cox & Power

diamonds, from blush through to reds), Sho (pinks as well as champagne through to cognac) and 5C (all colours of the rainbow as well as black with black rhodium-plated gold) are already smitten. Jada

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Diamond Feature | Some more diamond sales tips and a challenge from Gem-A’s Jack Ogden iamonds are not just the beneficiaries of great marketing over the last few generations, they are also rather remarkable stones. With ever-more discerning customers wanting knowledge, stories and enthusiasm about gems, so retailers need to put a bit more oomph in selling diamonds than simply saying that they sparkle and quoting the tired old ‘4-Cs’ mantra. Wise up, diamonds really are special, and have the credentials to prove it. First of all, diamonds are the hardest naturally occurring material in the universe so no wonder that our word diamond derives from the ancient ‘adamas’ meaning invincible. You can’t get much more special than that! It is a unique gem and, more pragmatically, can only be scratched by another diamond. Diamonds are also the only gem that is composed of a single element – carbon. Unique again! We are a carbon-based life form, so clearly affinity there… But is this too scientific to explain to your customers? Not if you do it right. Just say that their diamond is formed from the closest possible bond of the element that is fundamental to life itself and so diamonds can be thought of as genuinely embodying unity and closeness through eternity. Science not schmalz, well sort of. Diamonds as a direct symbol of love might not be quite as old as some marketing suggests, but neither is this ‘love’ association just a figment of De Beers’ imagination. Diamond rings were frequently associated with engagement or betrothal rings in Victorian times, especially in Victorian romantic fiction. So there is genuine tradition here that could be tapped with the right marketing approach. Diamonds were also a symbol of love in another way. According to one Medieval writer, if a man suspected his wife of being unfaithful he should place a diamond under her pillow as she slept. If she embraced him in her sleep his fears were unfounded, but if she tossed and turned and fell out of bed, she was indeed unfaithful. Not an easy bit of lore to use in selling, unless you boost diamond sales by providing a secret guide for women who are eager for a diamond and good at feigning sleep. Of course, much comes down to price still, and price is based on those 4Cs, so you do also need to know about colour and clarity and all that stuff. So I’ll tell you what we’ll do, email me a diamond marketing blurb (350 words max) based on the Medieval pillow test and the one we think is the cleverest or funniest will win a free place on one of Gem-A’s famous one-day practical diamond grading seminars.

Clogau Gold

…and highlights Majestic Jewellery (below) “As goldsmiths we see lots of invisibly-set jewellery come to us for stone replacements etc. Unfortunately glue is the only option in almost all cases,” explains Nick Aris of Aris Jewellers who was so impressed with Majestic Jewellery that he has become sole agent in the UK for the brand. Launched into the UK (and Europe) at IJL last month award-winning Majestic Jewellery carries worldwide patents for its particular manufacture which features the invisibly-set honeycomb of diamonds that are cut so precisely that they sit perfectly together and are set on six sides to ensure total security. The effect is one single diamond set as pear, round, oval, heart, marquise and radiant shapes.

Dr Jack Ogden is Chief Executive of Gem-A, provider of internationally-renowned gem education. Website: www.gem-a.com Email: jack@gem-a.com Andrew Geoghegan (below) The designer maker has turned his attention to gents wedding rings with the launch of the Reveal range with its subtle sprinkling of diamonds and inspired by his best-selling engagement ring. “This market has needed

a little sprucing up for a while and now that UK men are becoming a little more adventurous in their tastes, this launch is perfectly timed,” he says. Bonds of Union (right) With various roles at different jewellery houses (head gemmologist at Tiffany for example) under his belt, Denis Bellessort has launched his own luxury jewellery brand – Bonds of Union. The collection of hand-made pieces, predominantly in vermeil, also includes the special limited edition ‘Sacred Heart’ cross pendant. In 18ct gold it features 58 round brilliant-cut scintillating diamonds (a total of .58ct) that reveal a blue heart

when seen under a UV light (did you know that diamonds can fluoresce?). The brand’s apt slogan? ‘Say it with Diamonds’!

The Voice of the Industry 59

| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

w i t h

F e l l o w s

Antique JEWELLERY

in the centre, which was produced by Louis de Berquen, the best known diamondcutter of his time. A quite interesting sideline to this – at least as far as jewellery ‘geeks’ such as myself are concerned – is that Louis de Berquen was a cutter under the patronage of a man called Jacques Couer (1395 – 1456), an extremely rich financier and diamond merchant from Bourges in central France. One of the things that makes Couer significant is that it was he who first popularised the wearing of diamonds by women at a time when diamonds were exclusively worn by men. He did so by presenting diamond jewellery as gifts to the King’s mistress, Agnes Sorel, who was consort to the then King Charles VII.

Celebrated Pearls (part one) Of all the natural materials prized by jewellers, pearls have the longest and arguably the most interesting history. In the first of two articles, Jo Young shares the biographies of some of the best-known and most celebrated pearls the world has known. “

he richest merchandise of all, and the most soveraigne commoditie throughout the whole world, as these pearls”. So spoke the Roman encyclopaedist Pliny the elder, probably the first natural historian there ever was, in 77AD. As has been explored previously in these pages, pearls were the very first natural objects to ever be prized as gems – long before the South African landscape was transformed by the discovery of diamonds, and before, even, rubies and emeralds were first prized by the world’s kings, queens and wealthiest citizens. Pearls would have first been found off the waters of Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and the southern tip of India, we like to think by (a very surprised) prehistoric shellfish-eating fisherman or woman. Before too long pearls were objects prized by several civilisations, including the Egyptian, among whose ancient ruins and graves pearl remnants have been found. Everything about the pearl has been, for centuries, revered. Even pearl water was once considered to hold medicinal properties, by everyone from Roman emperors to French kings: Shakespeare (ever one to spot a trend) even referenced pearl (or ‘union’, as pearls were often then known) water drinking in one of his best-known works, Hamlet.

60 The Jeweller October 2011

The King shall drink to Hamlet’s better breath; An in the cup an union shall be thrown… Just as interesting as the natural history and life of the pearl itself, though, are the interweaving stories of individual pearls – the biographies, if you will, of the superstars of the pearl world. First up is, probably unsurprisingly, the Three Brethren Jewel, one of the most celebrated jewels of the fifteenth century.

Everything about the pearl has been, for centuries, revered. Even pearl water was once considered to hold medicinal properties

The Three Brethren The Three Brethren – or three brothers – was a jewelled pendant that is one of the best known pieces of Tudor jewellery. The ‘brothers’ in the jewel’s title were formed from three very large, rectangular spinels or balas rubies, spaced apart by three equally large pearls and with a fourth large pearl drop hanging below. Finishing off the main body of the pendant was a point-cut diamond

Queen Elizabeth I wearing The Three Brethren in the famous Ermine Portrait

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Couer won Sorel’s admiration and it was she who persuaded the King to make Couer his financial adviser and Master of his Royal Mint. In any case, this extraordinary piece of jewellery was first recorded in an inventory of 1419, but is thought to have dated from the beginning of the century and to have been inherited by the Duke of Burgundy, Charles the Bold (1433 – 1477) from his father. It seems that Charles the Bold – taking what many might consider a somewhat cavalier approach to jewellery security – took the Three Brethren, along with a second important jewel known as the White Rose, into battle with him, where he lost it fighting at the Battle of Granson against the Swiss in 1476. The story has it that the jewels were looted from Charles’s tent by an opportunist soldier. Several versions of what happened next to the Three Brethren exist; one is that it

Antique Jewellery | was bought by Jacob Fugger of the Augsburg merchant family from the Magistrates of Berne, with Fugger’s son negotiating its sale to Henry VIII just before Henry died in 1547 and selling it ultimately to Edward VI in 1551. Another is that Edward bought it himself in Antwerp. As historian Roy Strong put it in a Burlington Magazine article on the Three Brethren from 1966, “From 1476 until it was finally acquired in 1551 the pendant… was the subject of various discreet and highly secret transactions”. What is known for sure is that the jewel was given to Mary I when she married Philip II of Spain, and later still, was worn by Queen Elizabeth I. Elizabeth appears to have been particularly fond of the jewel, and was depicted wearing it in the famous Ermine Portrait, which she sat for in Hatfield House and which was painted by the celebrated Tudor miniaturist Nicholas Hilliard. Like many an important historical jewellery piece – their value and easy transportability being part of their appeal to ever-wary monarchs and leaders – the Three Brethren was pawned several times, first by Charles I and then by his wife Henrietta Maria (along with several items from the English crown jewels). Remarkably, the piece was never ‘redeemed’ and was subsequently sold on by the Bank of Lombardy in Rotterdam. The piece was last seen in 1650 in its original form.

La Peregrina

Mary I wearing the La Peregrina

When Mary Tudor died, La Peregrina was returned to Spain – we know this because the jewellery pops up in portraits of the celebrated Spanish artist Velazquez – where it remained until 1813. That year Joseph Bonaparte, brother of Napoleon, took the pearl with him when fleeing Madrid for Paris after the French defeat at the Battle of Vitoria. Having passed onto subsequent members of the same family, La Peregrina was sold to the Marques of Abercorn in London. As regular readers of Antique Jewellery may remember, La Peregrina was then sold by the Abercorns to a different character altogether in the shape of the actress Elizabeth Taylor in 1969. At the time of the

What’s fascinating about the Three Brethren, at least from an aesthetic perspective, is that it actually was quite an ugly piece of jewellery; though the stones and pearls within it were breathtaking in their size, it was not a pretty design and it is really the amazing provenance of the Three Brethren that makes it so historically important.

La Peregrina Mary I, who was Queen of England from 1553 to 1558, was quite a collector of valuable jewellery pieces, acquiring many significant gems throughout her reign, particularly from the Spanish treasury. The most celebrated of these was called La Peregrina (or ‘The Unconquerable’). Bloody Mary as she was known – thanks to her penchant for killing off Protestants in a brutal, coercive attempt to convert England back to Catholicism – apparently wore the jewel for her (somewhat disasterous) 1554 wedding to Philip II, as it appears in several paintings of the wedding now on display in Madrid’s Prado, as well as in Hampton Court and Winchester Cathedral. The drop pearl necklace has a similarly long and fascinating biography as the Three Brethren. Legend has it that La Peregrina was found by a slave pearl fisherman in Panama, who was then awarded his freedom in exchange for the priceless pearl; another version of the story is that it was found in Venezuela, where Chistopher Columbus had been the first European to discover pearl fisheries in 1498. In any case, the pearl found its way to Europe where it was presented to the Spanish King Philip II by Don Diego de Temes.

Elisabeth Taylor was La Peregrina’s most recent owner

Joseph Bonaparte, brother of Napoleon, took the pearl with him when fleeing Madrid for Paris after the French defeat at the Battle of Vitoria

sale, auction house Sotheby’s described the piece (perhaps a little sparsely) as, ‘weighing approximately 203.84 grains suspended from a foliate platinum mount set with numerous old-mine and rose diamonds’. Taylor’s then-husband Richard Burton paid $37,000 for the gem.

The Voice of the Industry 61

| Antique Jewellery Following Taylor’s recent death, in March this year, La Peregrina is, rather excitingly, on the move again. In April, a month after Taylor’s death, a UK auction house – this time Christie’s – announced that it would be holding an auction of the actress’s famed jewellery collection, which is esimated to be worth over £100m. The collection is going on a three monthlong tour around the world, starting this month, which will take in stops including Moscow, London, Dubai, Geneva, Paris, Hong Kong and Los Angeles. The tour will end in New York, where the collection will take over Christie’s entire gallery space ahead of a four day sale from 13th-16th December.

Zinaida Yusapova wearing La Pelegrina

La Pelegrina Often confused with La Peregrina is a second similarly-named pearl piece, La Pelegrina. This too belonged to the Spanish Crown jewels, and was given by Philip IV to his daughter Maria Theresa on her marriage to Louis XIV in 1660, when it went with her to France. The jewellery didn’t bring Maria Theresa much luck: her husband had a notoriously roving eye, and she was forced

62 The Jeweller October 2011

to endure the indignity of a whole parade of his mistresses throughout their 23 year marriage. Considerably more tragic still, the couple had five children together, only one of whom survived into adulthood. After Maria Therese’s death in 1683 the pearl effectively ‘disappared’ for a time. How exactly it travelled is not known, but the pearl later turned up in Russia in the early

nineteenth century, where it is believed by some – although, as is often the case in these things, certainly not all – to have belonged for some time to a pair of antiquarian brothers called the Zozinas. The brothers are said to have kept the pearl in a gold-mounted sea urchin shell, with a convex lens over the top of it as a cover. This pearl weighed considerably less than La Peregrina at just over 111 grains, but this one is notable for being almost perfectly spherical in shape and of a particularly high quality. What people talk about with this pearl is its lustre: it is said that, due to its silvery hue, it appears at times to be almost transparent. La Pelegrina was later sold to a series of Russian nobles, among them the Yusopovs. During the October Revolution in 1917 a large number of the family’s jewellery pieces were looted by the Bolsheviks, but for whatever reason La Pelegrina was not among them. Family member Prince Felix Yusopov – who is best known for his part in the murder of Rasputin – was able to hold on to the jewel and smuggle it out of Russia, not parting with it until 1953 when it was sold in Switzerland to a Geneva jeweller.

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The Voice of the Industry 63

| Insurance Matters

Reading the Riot Act In the wake of August’s riots, insurance brokers T H March offers advice to jewellers who may have found themselves at the sharp end of events. ver the last month the jewellery industry has been rocked by both disturbing and distressing activities caused by the riots throughout the country. Many businesses and individuals have been victims of criminality and wanton destruction. If you have been unfortunate enough to have suffered damage, your insurance broker and insurance company should have been there to help you get back to business as fast as possible. Should such attacks take place in the future, it’s very important you take action as soon as possible to get back on track. In the immediate aftermath, it is essential that you notify your insurance broker or insurer that you have suffered damage, together with the extent of this damage and a likely estimate, if possible, for the repairs. Insurers require notification of any loss within one week of the date the damage was caused with a list, as accurate as possible, of the damage caused even if you do not yet have formal written estimates or invoices. The method of notification and subsequent paperwork required will vary from insurer to insurer.

64 The Jeweller October 2011

This is because under the terms of the Riot (Damages) Act 1886 insurers are able to recover their outlay for material damage and theft, but not business interruption, from the local police authority. Normally they only have 14 days from the date of the damage, for a written statement to be submitted. However this has now been extended to 42 days – but this does not mean you should defer submitting your information.

you and work with you to enable you to get back to business as quickly as possible. While many of you may view the purchase of your insurance policy as an expense ‘you could do without’, it is in times such as we’ve seen over the last month that you will appreciate the peace of mind that will come with buying the right policy, through the right insurance broker, with the right insurer. The criminal acts witnessed during the riots only serve to remind us of the severity of crime and the danger it can be to your business. With this in mind, we need to remember there are procedures in place to fight crime; one method is SaferGems. SaferGems, developed by the NAG and T H March in 2009, helps to address the serious crimes to which the jewellery and associated trades are increasingly being targeted by specialist gangs and ruthless amateurs. Unlike other security initiatives already in place, SaferGems identifies and helps to address the issues that contribute to serious crime by compiling a confidential, national database of incidents, crimes and suspects. A specialist independent team, including a serving police officer with direct access to police intelligence (from across the UK) coordinates information supplied by members and local police forces. This in turn enables data to be compiled about criminal activity involving the jewellery trade in different police areas, which could help lead to criminal proceedings, convictions and ultimately a reduction in crime for the whole industry. Once information is recorded and collated, alerts are sent to members on a local, regional or national basis. The alerts contain

Under the terms of the Riot (Damages) Act 1886 insurers are able to recover their outlay for material damage and theft, but not business interruption, from the local police authority. Also, you will need to distinguish between a genuine ‘riot’, which must involve 12 or more people involved in or threatening unlawful activity, or malicious damage, which may involve a smaller number of people taking ‘advantage’ of a current situation. In either case your insurance policy should cover any damage and loss suffered. Remember that your insurance broker and insurance company are there to help

details of criminal methods of operation and where possible describe criminals and suspects. Retailers therefore have unique insight and positive intelligence into active criminal threats that could affect them at any time. SaferGems is included in as part of the T.H. March Jewellers Block policy, to find out more visit: www.safergems.org.uk

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Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Cabinets of Curiosities by Patrick Mauries (£29.95 Thames & Hudson) Ok, it’s not strictly speaking a jewellery or gemstone book, but collectors, magpies, historians, art lovers and fans of the weird and wonderful will find it captivating. The author traces the history (largely 17th

century) of cabinets of curiosities – from shelves in a small cupboard to, more often, whole rooms – they groaned with the weight of everything from the beautiful to the downright disturbing. Arts and sciences came together in these over flowing cabinets, which were laid out to impress, amaze and even shock viewers. Minerals in particular were collected, for their beauty as well as their scientific value, along with shells, gold artifacts, carved ivory and coral and small dead animals.

De Beers Jewellery text by Vivienne Becker (£100.00 Assouline – www.assouline.com) This luxuriously-presented tome not only tells the story of De Beers and the creation of De Beers Diamond Jewellers in 2001, but takes us right back to the history of the gems themselves. Not just the science bit, but also the myths and legends; their discovery in South Africa; an explanation of the four Cs; how diamonds are cut and the unpredictable beauty of coloured diamonds are among the subjects covered. Of course, the major part of the book is devoted to story behind the jewellery collection; the design inspiration and creative concepts behind it; the purchasing experience and the working practices of De Beers today. Go on, treat yourself!

Sales & Exhibitions October Now-8th January, 2012: Picasso to Koons: Artist as Jeweler, Museum of Arts and Design, New York Over 240 one-of-a-kind or limited edition pieces created by artists not normally known for their jewellery – including Max Ernst, Jasper Johns and Anish Kapoor. www.madmuseum.org November 5th November-8th January: Dazzle Christmas exhibition. National Theatre, South Bank, London Parties on the opening week-end will kick off this show of designer jewellery, including new talent from among this year’s graduates. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com 18th-20th: Desire Silver Jewellery & Silversmithing Fair, The Guildhall, Winchester Around 70 new and established British designer makers who are working in a variety of materials, from gold and silver to bronze and copper. Ring shown by Maria Helena Spector.

66 The Jeweller October 2011

19th November-1st January: Dazzle Christmas exhibition. Royal Exchange Theatre, St Anne’s Square, Manchester Contemporary jewellery fair – details as per previous listing. 24th-27th: Made in Clerkenwell: Winter Open Studios at Craft Central, 21 Clerkenwell Green, London EC1 Explore the design community, watch the makers at work (ceramics, fashion and interiors as well as jewellery) and shop early for Christmas. www.craftcentral.org.uk/madeinclerkenwell

Bronagh Kennedy at Winter Open Studios

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs October 17th-21st: JWS Abu Dhabi, Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre, United Arab Emirates International watch and jewellery show www.jws.ae

18th-30th: The Gemworld Munich, Neuen Messe, Munich, Germany The special exhibit at the international gemstone and jewellery show this year will be ‘European Classics’ including the legendary blue diamond called Wittlesbach Graff. www.gemworldmunich.com 28th-30th: Mineralientage, Neuen Messe, Munich, Germany On display will be minerals, precious stones, crystals, fossils and jewellery, as well as literature and accessories. www.mineralientage.de November 10th-13th: Dubai International Jewellery Week, Dubai World Trade Centre Prestigious watch and jewellery brands showing at this fair which is open to the trade and public. www.jewelleryshow.com 24th-27th: Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers Show, HK Convention & Exhibition Centre Diamond, platinum and fine gold jewellery, plus pearls, jade, opals, gemstones and jewellery watches. www.jewelryshows.org

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Diamond Setters

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D I S P L AY C A B I N E T Gemstones

Jewellery Manufacturers

Pearls

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Premises to Let

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bqw

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Watches FOR SALE – QUALITY WATCHES FROM £5.00 EACH Based in Hatton Garden we have been watch importers since 1970. For the very first time we are making a clearance sale of our watches, both quartz and mechanical, with prices starting from as little as £5.00! We are also clearing our Sterling Silver and Gold Watches. For more information please telephone:

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| Regular

The

Last Word In this diamond-themed issue, the subject of The Last Word is, appropriately enough, Martin Rapaport, leading diamond expert and chairman of the Rapaport Group Personal Profile Martin began his career in the diamond industry in 1975 as an apprentice diamond cleaver in Antwerp. In 1978, he established the Rapaport Diamond Price List, followed in 1980 by RapNet – Rapaport Diamond Trading Network, now the world’s largest B2B online network currently offering daily diamond listings of over 700,000 diamonds worth over $5 billion. The Group also provides diamond grading and certification services with GIA Lab Direct services and Martin is a member of many jewellery clubs and associations including New York Diamond Dealers Club, Belgium Diamond Bourse and Israel Diamond Exchange.

Tell us something not many people know about you… I have scuba dived to depths of over 120ft.

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? I would have hired more people and faster.

How would you describe your personal style? Aggressively honest and transparent. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Miami Beach. I was born there.

If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? Fair prices and markets for artisanal diggers. What book are you currently reading? Who Moved My Cheese? It's a simple story about change and how to deal with it by Dr Spencer Johnson Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country)? I prefer to do my shopping online, because it is fast, easy, convenient and cheap.

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? Maverick. Out-of-the-box thinker.

In the next issue of

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

70 The Jeweller October 2011

If not the jewellery business, what might your career have been? I began by brokering rough and polished diamonds, so probably a commodities trader.

Do you Tweet? No. Quick fire (no deliberating) • Red or white wine? Both! • What is your favourite cut of diamond? Round • White or yellow metal? White • TV or radio? TV • Jewellery on men? Yes or No? Yes • Delegator or control freak? Delegator • Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian? Indian • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles

Coloured Stones Do the ‘big five’ still reign over the gemstone market? Branded Jewellery We talk to key players who have happily embraced this increasingly important sector of the market.

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