The Jeweller by Zest Europe

the

Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

£6.50

The Voice of The Industry

Showtime! The who, what, where and when of IJL

A Question of Ethics The issues, developments and key players surrounding ethical jewellery

Future Trends No crystal ball required. . .

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

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Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

A U G / S E P T

The lore and the profits

Communiqué

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

NAG News

Gem-A’s Jack Ogden offers his personal view

Member of the Month

on how to sell coloured stones

Education & Training

IRV Review

BJA News

Simon Says

BJA Legal

With IJL just around the corner we preview the

Brand Profile

news and events from the show and highlight

Insurance Matters

Security

Legal Jeweller

An overview of the various ethical issues

BJA Feature

facing the jeweller today

Antique Jewellery

Opinion: John Henn

Notebook

Display Cabinet

The Last Word

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

Future trends

A taste of jewellery trends to come

Showtime!

some of the new collections to be unveiled

A question of ethics

A meeting of hearts and minds

Paul Spurgeon introduces the new Soweto-based Cornerstone line

Ethical elegance out of Peru The Chavin collection unveiled

Ethical collections Some of our favourite pieces of

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

jewellery-with-a-conscience

The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris

Cover Image In conjunction with International Jewellery London 4th-7th September 2011 Earls Court 2, London www.jewellerylondon.com

Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk BJA Marketing & PR Manager: Lindsey Straughton lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7613 4445 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian@jewellers-online.org Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Mary Brittain, John Henn, Miles Hoare, Jack Ogden, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

Michael Hoare considers the factors behind some recent gloomy retail figures and questions the banking industry’s less-than-sympathetic approach to the issues facing SMEs.

We’re doomed! The UK’s multiple retailers are having a tough time of it! According to data compiled on behalf of accountants Price Waterhouse Coopers they closed 20 stores a day on average across the UK between January and the end of May this year. The data also reveals that across multiple retailers in 300 town centres, clothes, shoe shops and jewellers have been among the hardest hit in 2011. Supermarkets, convenience stores, cafes, and pawnbrokers on the other hand have bucked the trend showing growth in the first half of the year. The latest retail insolvency statistics from the same source have also revealed that there were 375 retail insolvencies in quarter two of 2011, nine per cent more than the same time last year. Their research also indicates that, since the start of the recession, financially troubled retailers have closed, or plan to close, on average half their store portfolios as the high street comes under increased pressure. Clearly the combination of rising inflation and lower confidence has led many consumers to look for the best deals on certain items, and this sometimes means going online. Some high street retailers have seen a drop in footfall as a consequence,

4 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

and inevitably a small proportion of shoppers will abandon traditional shops all together; transferring their allegiance to the internet. Apparently PWC’s researches also show that about 14 per cent of their sample shop regularly online, with nearly 20 per cent claiming to spend half their disposable income that way. But do these changes in the way people shop really spell the end of retail as we know it? I don’t think so!

…since the start of the recession, financially troubled retailers have closed, or plan to close, on average half their store portfolios Of course the Jeremiahs are already running around chanting “We’re doomed, doomed I tell ye”. Yes, seismic changes are occurring, and the tectonic plates are grinding hard against each other, but I see this as another periodic adjustment of the market. It’s going to be tough, but every now and again old wood has to be cut back to allow new growth to flourish.

The UK has been over-shopped for a decade or more, and more shop developments arrive all the time. Some of the big retailers have grown their estates out of machismo rather than economics, and weak brands have proliferated. Plus, where once a retailer needed 250 stores for national coverage, today they only need 150 stores plus a transactional website. All this has happened on the back of our belief in easy credit, and reliance on ‘services’ as the driver of the UK economy. It couldn’t last, and the bubble had to burst sometime. I don’t welcome the effect on the high street, as personally I prefer its charms to the gloomy monotony of the out-of-own alternative. But hopefully empty shops will lead to realistic rents, to adventurous new formats, and to truly local initiatives supplanting ubiquitous clones. There is still more pruning to be done, but I foresee a return to steady (not spectacular) growth; a revival of the high street; local shopping supplemented by e-commerce and a refocusing on specialist shops. Am I being too optimistic? Let me know what you think.

Like more security with that? So much for the future, in the short term many businesses will continue to struggle and we will see high levels of financial distress among certain retailers. They cannot afford to bury their heads in the sand, and must engage with their stakeholders early, especially banks, landlords, credit insurers and their staff. At recent Genesis Initiative senate meetings we’ve been wrestling with the problems of SMEs borrowing from their banks. One of the major problems is that banks are converting overdrafts into loans (thereby charging an arrangement fee and higher interest) and also demanding personal guarantees from directors secured on their houses. One of

Comment | the reasons (among several) for this approach may be that the traditional method of securing bank borrowing by a company giving both a fixed AND a floating charge on its assets has been seriously undermined by a decision in 2005 (Brumark) of the then House of Lords. In simplistic terms the effect of that decision is that the floating charge element of a bank charge on a company’s assets does not effectively secure anything like the range of assets (e.g. book debts) which it was once assumed it did. So the banks are keener than ever to enhance their security by demanding personal guarantees secured on directors’ houses. The issue didn’t get a lot of attention outside legal circles at the time because the banks were taking a relatively relaxed attitude to security in the prevailing boom economy. The banking crisis has however resulted in banks taking a much tougher attitude and since floating charges do not have the security once thought, banks are demanding personal guarantees and the family home as the price for lending.

…banks are converting overdrafts into loans (thereby charging an arrangement fee and higher interest) and also demanding personal guarantees from directors secured on their houses The official advice has to be that the family home should not be put in hock to the bank. The whole point of operating through a limited company is to limit personal risk, and the banks should make commercial lending decisions based on the business proposition and their assessment of the directors abilities – simple ‘old fashioned’ banking in other words. Genesis believes that pressure should be brought to bear at the highest political level to rein-in this undesirable approach being adopted by banks.

And lastly… As you engage in your unequal struggle with the bank, I am sure you will be heartened to know that the world’s population of High Net Worth Individuals (HNWI) grew 8.3 per cent in 2010, down from the 17.1 per cent increase seen in 2009. The growth of their financial wealth also slowed to 9.7 per cent; less than the 18.9 per cent jump in 2009 when there was a sharp rebound from the hefty crisis-related losses of 2008. However, the 2010 increase was still enough to push global HNWI financial wealth up to US$42.7 trillion, beyond the pre-crisis high of US$40.7 trillion in 2007. Just in case you’re wondering if your own wealth comes up to scratch, the World’s Wealth Report, from which I gleaned these facts, defines HNWIs as those who hold at least US$1 million in financial assets and ultra-HNWIs as those who hold at least US$30 million in financial assets, with both excluding collectibles, consumables, consumer durables and primary residences. Better get counting!

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“Everything now needs a story to sell it. Customers expect it. I am not just talking about gems; you can’t see bangers and mash on a menu… without knowing the name of the pig and the parish where it lived.”

So, are you ready? Have you had a practice pack (favourite ties/statement necklace; smartyet-comfy shoes etc etc) and is your note-taking pencil sharpened? It’s that time again – the time to seek out new collections; find new brands and designers maybe and certainly catch up with favourite suppliers. How do you work a fair I wonder? Go with a pre-determined list of must-sees and refuse to be lured from your path? Or perhaps you’re more of a suck-itand-see, open mind type of buyer, happy to work the aisles and let new trends and temptations leap out and grab you. Personally – with the responsibility of a budget and customer-base to consider – I approach each jewellery show with both hats on. I have my list of stands I must visit – probably to research for a future feature. And then I also keep an eye out for story ideas, for issues later in the year. Somehow I try and fit in a few of the inspirational seminars along the way, and,

Page 32

of course, hope to meet and chat to as many of you, our readers, as possible. Four days just isn’t quite enough for all that goes on at IJL, as our show preview on p44 confirms. If you are open to a few design-related suggestions just before heading off to Earl’s Court, take a look at our future trend story on p36. It’s hardly an exact science but trend forecasting or analysis (call it what you will) can offer a useful pointer before confronting the plethora of styles, colours and forms at a show – particularly if you’re moving towards a more fashion-led and/or brand-oriented offer. At the very least, these directions can suggest window display themes, I would think. One theme that promises to be big news at IJL is that of ethical jewellery – in whatever form

“We feel that it is important not only to support Fairtrade gold but also to influence the larger scale industry as much as we can at the same time.”

that might take. There will be a debate on the subject during the show and an even greater number of exhibitors with lines that take a strong socially and environmentally-aware stance, should this be an area that is of growing interest to you. In this issue we canvas some views on the complex subject and preview key collections of jewellery-with-a-conscience – some of which will be showing at IJL. I’ll see you there.

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 76

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

NGOs present key demands to industry our leading NGOs presented their recommendations for action to the NAG & BJA Ethics Committee last month. In a no holds barred session Global Witness, World Wildlife Fund, Pact and Earthworks joined a round table discussion on the challenges the jewellery sector currently faces. Issues raised included the fragile state of the Kimberley Process, new standards on conflict minerals and lack of representation for artisanal miners in the global drive to meet demands for transparency. The NGOs discussed their work on the ground, government policies and the benefits and pitfalls of the various emerging initiatives which aim to improve social and environmental standards for gold and diamond supply chains. Global Witness gave valuable information about the current crisis in Zimbabwe and discussed the Kimberley Process objectives. While GW has engaged with many artisanal miners, it explained the

difficulty in finding representatives of the miners and found that those involved in the trading of the diamonds tended to have a stronger voice. Ethics committee member and Fairtrade Gold campaigner Greg Valerio said that: “Artisanal miners remain marginalised from all the debates about the elimination of conflict from the mineral trade and the unintended consequences of all these Organisation for Economic Cooperation & Development & World Gold Council initiatives will be no change for the artisanal miner, which will mean no change in the conflict minerals story.” He also raised hard-hitting questions for the most vulnerable developing countries on the robustness of the enforcement of their conflict free mineral policy as businesses rush to meet compliance for conflict free supply chains without the inclusion of artisanal miners in the delivery of the changes.

Jewellers caught in riots mong those retailers whose businesses were affected by this month’s rioting in cities across the UK was NAG member G Mantella of Enfield whose store was looted. Youths managed to pull away the metal security shutter, smash windows and make off with around £40,000 of stock. In Tottenham, where the violence started, the jewellery shop owned by Steve Moore was completed gutted by fire – Mr Moore later met deputy prime minister Nick Clegg who was assessing damage in the area. Other jewellers caught up in the rioting included Argento in Peckham, Valens in Waltham Cross, Thomas Sabo in Bristol and a Pandora shop in Birmingham. On Tuesday 9th, businesses in the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter – including the BJA – were advised to close at 1pm, a preemptive measure

8 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

against possible violence. A number of shops in Hatton Garden followed suit after rumours of trouble circulated. Thankfully there was no trouble in either of the locations, although rioting spread to other cites, including Wolverhampton where John Henn’s shop TA Henn received smashed windows but nothing taken as stock was Smashed windows at TA Henn which were later boarded up (inset)

Karen Hayes of Pact described their work on the ground to implement traceability of the ‘bagging and tagging’ of tin, tungsten, tantalum and gold which is compliant with conflict-free standards. Pact has also created local communication and consultation committees, with their focus on practicality, social, health and safety issues in mines. The committee also heard from No Dirty Gold campaigners Earthworks, who joined the conversation from the USA via conference call. Earthworks created the Golden Rules for jewellers and have most recently been campaigning against the proposed Anglo American ‘Pebble’ copper and gold mine in Bristol Bay, Alaska. Of the round table talks, Simon Rainer of the BJA commented: “It was a hugely informative and interesting meeting”. Vivien Johnston of ethical jewellery company Fifi Bijoux, who moderated the session, said: “These are exceptionally complex issues. The collective experience and knowledge the NGOs bring to the table is vital for developing a well-rounded perspective in order to tackle the challenges our industry is facing”. The NAG and BJA Ethics Committee is now reviewing the recommendations made and plan to address these in future round tables with other key parties within the trade and as well as the banking sector.

locked away, and Manchester where the Swarovski store was looted. The British Retail Consortium has met with home secretary Theresa May and business secretary Vince Cable and called for intelligence-led information to help retailers protect their properties. Assurances were given that those responsible for vandalism and theft will be suitably punished. A number of other critical issues were also raised: assurances the police and fire services are adequately resourced and equipped, and are authorised to use robust operational tactics to close down situations quickly; immediate support to help shopkeepers protect their properties: early discussions on how affected communities can be helped to recover; joint discussions with the insurance industry to ensure affordable insurance remains available in the affected areas; and joint discussions with the banks to ensure short to medium term credit arrangements enable retailers to refit and re-open.

Industry News |

IJL supports RJC

S N I P P E T S

he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that International Jewellery London, has become an official supporter of the Council. “We are delighted to announce IJL as a new supporter of the Responsible Jewellery Council. IJL joins institutions such as ABN AMRO and Compagnie Financière Richemont SA as valuable RJC supporters and more than 310 companies and trade associations in the Council’s growing membership,” says Michael Rae, RJC’s chief executive officer. “At IJL 2011 RJC will be present with a booth for the duration of the show, will participate in the Great Debate and will host a workshop on RJC member certification. We are most grateful to IJL for their generous support and we look forward to working closely to assist all IJL exhibitors achieve the crucial goal of consumer confidence,” Rae adds. “We have a total commitment to delivering an event that is important to the global jewellery industry,” says Syreeta Tranfield, IJL event co-director of the move. “Retailers and buyers come to IJL to source the latest products and find out about trends, but they also come to gain knowledge and to find out about issues affecting the industry. This is why we have an extensive seminar programme and hold the Great Debate, with key figures discussing ethics”.

New York-based fine jewellery brand Gurhan, known for its 24ct jewellery has appointed london-based Marie-Pierre Champetier as European sales manager. While being responsible for developing the name in Europe, she will also be assisting Eddie Lynch, general manager of Gurhan’s European office, on global brand development. Previously Champetier has worked with a number of fine jewellery retail brands, including Tiffany, Graff, De Beers and Hirsh. “Gurhan combines antique jewellery-making techniques with a modern look in such a brilliant way – it’s about craftsmanship, quality and rarity,” she says.

New European SM for Gurhan

NAG and BJA join forces at IJL he NAG and the BJA will be sharing a stand at IJL next month, the first time that they have done so at any trade fair. The move reinforces the message that the two industry associations, together with The Jeweller, truly are ‘the Voice of the Industry’. We hope that you will find time during what promises to be a packed and exciting show schedule (560 exhibitors to date) to come along to the stand (H151), meet members from the two teams – as well as the magazine crew – and have a glass of champagne.

Panorama on Marange diamonds – opinion n 8th August the BBC’s Panorama ’Mugabe’s Blood Diamonds’, investigated Zimbabwe’s Marange diamond fields and uncovered torture camps run by the country’s security forces. The NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare offers his opinion on the programme and its findings: The question mark over the Kimberley Process puts retailers in a difficult position when talking to customers who are concerned about the provenance of their diamonds. At the moment they can only restate the fact that all diamonds are bought from sources which carry a Kimberley Process warranty (if that is true) unless they have decided to switch entirely to Canadian or other ‘known source’ diamonds which offer a further reassurance. Despite Martin Rapaport’s comments on the Panorama programme the Kimberley Process is still the only game in town – and I notice he didn’t suggest an alternative! With no other credible system in place apart from De Beers ‘Forever Mark’, and the RJC ‘chain of custody’ standards, which won’t be in place until next year, it has to be remembered that the KP is the only system with the weight of governments behind it. And, it is not a foregone conclusion that Europe will get its way and force approval for the release of diamonds from the two Marange mines which appear to conform. At meetings I have attended to discuss the Kimberley Process over the last ten days there has been general agreement from all participants (including NGOs) that the KP has been a force for good. It certainly needs improvement but it should not be wound up unless there is a really robust alternative – not least because it is already enshrined in legislation in 74 countries and it would be difficult to achieve quickly the same level of international agreement. It must be remembered that the system was set up in 2003 to deal with overt armed conflict. It is not equipped to deal with repressive regimes, but needs to address this urgently. At the very least it needs a permanent secretariat and to stop equivocating in the face of what appears to be overwhelming evidence from Zimbabwe. I fear this is only the start of the debate.

Tender threat to diamond trade Moti Ganz, president of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association, published an article last month warning that by selling their production through tenders, the large diamond producers are upending the sustainability of the diamond industry at large. In an article, published in July in an Israel diamond industry magazine, the IDMA president said: “There are so many tenders that the trend is threatening to interfere with our lives. And if the rough producers don't wake up in time… it could be a blow to our very existence, capabilities and survival. When we examine the aspects of tenders, we realise that they weaken each and every link along the diamond value chain”, he added. “The most prominent victims are manufacturers, retailers as well as the rough producer.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Planning application lodged for Scottish gold mine planning application to develop Scotland’s first commercial gold and silver mine at Cononish near Tyndrum has been lodged by Scotgold with the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park Authority. The development, Scotland’s first commercial gold mine, is expected to produce 20,000 ounces of gold per year, of which 5,000 ounces will be extracted as unrefined gold bars and identifiable as ‘Scottish Gold’, attracting a premium for jewellers and goldsmiths due to its scarcity and uniqueness, should it be manufactured into jewellery. In addition to this 80,000 ounces of silver will be extracted annually and it is estimated that as much as £80m in additional economic activity will be generated over the project’s life in Scotland through the wider supply chain as a result of the establishment of the mine. The project has received considerable local and national support, including from such bodies as the Scottish Tourism Forum, the Scottish Council for Development and Industry and the Assay office. It is anticipated that the mine will create 52 full time jobs in a rural community whose current active skills base is largely centred on the seasonal tourist trade. Scotgold is investigating the potential for an apprenticeship programme with ‘Edutrain’, the relevant training body. The rich geological endowment of the area, its mining history, its location on a major tourist route and the potential of Scotland’s first commercial gold mine all make Tyndrum a unique location. Scotgold has also held preliminary discussions with a number of respected and influential participants in the Scottish jewellery industry (as well as from the NAG) and has received indications that there will be considerable interest in the manufacture in Scotland of gold and silver of verifiably Scottish extraction. “Such gold and silver will also have been ‘locally sourced’ with ‘traceable’ origin from ‘responsible’ mining practices (no mercury or cyanide) and may also attract strong interest from this sector of the jewellery market,” says Chris Sangster, managing director and CEO of Scotgold. In April Scotgold accepted an offer of a Regional Selective Assistance grant from economic development agency, Scottish Enterprise, of up to £600,000 for the establishment of mine facilities and job creation, conditional on Scotgold obtaining planning permission. It is expected that a planning decision will be made on this in mid-late October.

S N I P P E T S Changes at Brown & Newirth Following the launch of the new Brown & Newirth branding earlier this year, the British commitment ring company has made changes to its senior management team in order to focus on sales and marketing strategies. Newly appointed sales director is John Ball, previously of CW Sellors and DMJ who brings with him a wealth of sales and business development experience. Amber Saunders has been promoted to head of marketing to further develop the company’s commitment ring brand and optimise its exposure and presence. New business development manager for Scotland, Northern and southern Ireland is David Heatlie. New outlets for Thomas Sabo The German fashion jewellery brand has opened a new store in Manchester’s Trafford Centre. The company’s previous, much smaller premises (27 square meters) was closed, with the new branch being 90 square meters. At the same time its space in Selfridges in the Trafford Centre has been doubled. October will see a new concession in Selfridges Exchange Square in Manchester city centre.

Further updates from RJC he Responsible Jewellery Council has announced that high street jeweller F. Hinds, with 110 stores nationwide, has become certified against the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards established by the RJC Member Certification System. “As a fifth generation family company, the way we do business is important to us,” says Andrew Hinds, F. Hinds’ director and diamond buyer. “We were one of the earliest members of the RJC – we felt that it would enable the jewellery industry to make a real difference in the world. We have also been certified ahead of many major names in the jewellery industry, which for a family company, gives us considerable pride and pleasure.” Also in the last month, Swiss-based precious metal refiner Argor-Heraeus, Antwerp diamond companies R Steinmetz and Kiran Exports, Canadian diamond-cutters and polishers Crossworks and French jewellery manufacturer Oteline have become certified. The Dutch Federation of Gold and Silver is now a member and Brinks Global Services a supporter.

10 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

Clogau up for award On 23rd September, Ben Roberts, MD of North Wales-based jewellery company Clogau Gold, will discover whether or not he is announced as Family Business Director of the Year at the Institute of Directors’ Director of the Year Awards UK Final 2011. He was a winner of the regional awards back in April. Ben took over as managing director from his father, William Roberts, in 2007.

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| Industry News

Changes planned for Sunday Trading – opinion unday trading legislation must be amended in order to respond to the challenge set by the London Olympics 2012 and other major events, according to Mark Menzies MP. He tabled a Ten Minute Rule Bill on 6th July which aims to allow temporary relaxations of Sunday trading regulations for the duration of the Olympic Games without compromising the stature of Sunday as a family day. Menzies also believes that giving local authorities the power to amend Sunday trading legislation for special, one-off events will help traders in Fylde (his constituency) and the North West through a difficult period as well as boosting the Games. On his website Menzies states that the Games will bring hundreds of thousands of tourists, journalists, and foreign leaders into the UK; and we need to show that our country is able to accommodate their demands and display that our country is welcoming to the demands of these many visitors. “Allowing all shops to stay open later on Sundays has these advantages whilst making the big events more convenient for tourists.” The 1994 Sunday Trading Act currently governs retail opening hours, and the Menzies proposal would see an amendment to the legislation. His further suggestion is that discretion could be applied to special events all over the North West such as Blackpool’s Armed Forces week, Tram Sunday in Fleetwood, Lytham Proms and even the upcoming Preston Guild. The Sunday Trading (Amendment) Bill is scheduled for a second reading at the end of November, after which it will go to a vote. The British Retail Consortium is unsure how its members will react. On the one hand it states that ‘Britain has invested billions of pounds into the Games and we must maximise the opportunity from the hundreds of thousands of new tourists that will come.” On the other it concedes that others may prefer sticking to the current regime as relaxation of the rules will merely spread out existing trade while increasing operational costs. Others, including Therese Coffey MP, raise the objection that the change would force shop staff to work during the Games, thus spoiling the occasion for them. Others, I am sure, will see this proposed amendment as the thin end of a wedge which eventually tears the Sunday Trading Act asunder. Michael Hoare, CEO NAG

S N I P P E T S New Armani watch Armani Exchange, a young urban brand from the Girogio Armani stable is celebrating its 20th anniversary with the launch of a special edition timepiece collection. The casual men’s and women’s models feature the A/X logo and this season’s strong metal finish – rose gold. The men’s style comes with nylon interchangeable straps in dark brown and navy, while the women’s model has a rose gold bracelet. They are both sold with special anniversary packaging.

First studio for W&W he bespoke British jeweller W&W has opened its first studio – on Webbs Road, in the heart of Battersea, South London. Having previously operated from an office, the new jewellery destination has been designed with the client in mind – an environment from which to enjoy a personal and comfortable service. Fine jewellery specialists W&W provides a customised service encompassing all needs and budgets from designing and creating a unique piece or sourcing fine vintage jewels to selecting ethical gemstones or simply getting a ring resized. Breaking away from the traditional shop front, the studio provides a space where clients can relax and enjoy their jewellery experience… by appointment only. “There is no over-the-counter hard sell, just beautiful handmade jewellery from designers who focus on impeccable customer service,” says director Richard Warrender. “The move to our new studio in Battersea has been an exciting and progressive time for us – we now have a luxurious home where we can really showcase what we are all about.”

12 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

Racing driver launches his own watch collection Swedish racing driver Stefan Johansson, who has enjoyed a 30+ year career in motor sport, has launched his own watch brand – Stefan Johansson Vaxjo. Rather than simply endorsing the timepieces, Johansson has created the faces and straps and closely supervises the production of parts and assembly in Switzerland. A forthcoming collection will feature a patent-pending mechanical movement of Johansson’s own design. Each model is tested on his wrist (or that of another pro driver) to ensure that it withstands racing conditions, from vibration and shock to altitude changes and extreme heat. www.stefanjohansson.com

| Industry News

M-commerce jewellery website launches cottish retailer Rox has invested £25,000 in the launch of an m-commerce website (www.rox.co.uk) which allows customers to browse and purchase the full Rox range using their smart phone. The Scottish Fashion Awards’ Retailer of the Year is believed to be the first UK jeweller to optimise its website for smart phone users. On a monthly basis the Rox website receives 75,000 visitors a month and it is expected that the new m-commerce site will attract a further 7,500. Recent research has shown that mobile retail searches soared by 216% year-on-year in the second quarter of 2011 as the surge in online shopping continued. Managing director and co-owner of Rox, Kyron Keogh, says: “Online sales now account for 15 per cent of our annual turnover and with the rapid increase of smart phones we felt it was essential to upgrade our website to offer our customers a superior browsing experience. There is already considerable existing demand to engage with our customers via mobile devices”.

Report on ethical jewellery op jewellery brands are failing to meet the growing expectations of customers for ethical sourcing of metals and gemstones, thereby providing opportunities for new brands to emerge, according to an independent report. Published by Fair Jewelry Action, a non-profit organisation promoting fairly traded jewellery, and strategy advisers Lifeworth Consulting, the report benchmarks ten prestigious jewellery brands on their social and environmental performance. It compares their performance with innovations in the ethical sourcing of precious metal and gemstones, and finds them significantly lagging behind, with the sole exceptions of Cartier and Boucheron, which are recognised for taking useful steps. The research also found that six of the 10 brands still offered Burmese rubies from their London or Geneva boutiques last year, despite an EU embargo. One reason for the lack of comprehensive action from prestigious brands is identified as the absence of a positive vision for the ethical role of the jewellery industry. “Although a decade of effort to reduce conflict and environmental damage from jewellery supply chains has curbed some of the worst practices, it has failed to identify an aspirational role for jewellery. Today, the efforts of responsible jewellery pioneers are outlining a vision of ethical excellence,” says report co-author Dr. Jem Bendell. “By comparing the actions of ten luxury brands with this new vision, the report finds luxury jewellery firms risk being left behind in an increasingly aspirational marketplace,” he says. The report, entitled Uplifting the Earth: the ethical performance of luxury jewellery brands, provides guidance on how brands can move beyond a negative risk management approach to their ethical considerations, and instead use social and environmental issues as a creative inspiration and collaborate to make jewellery a positive force for all involved. “More people recognise something is beautiful if it has been made beautifully, which involves all aspects of its creation. Some in the industry understand that, and need help to get buy-in from their colleagues. This report is for them,” explains report co-author Ian Doyle, of www.lifeworth.com/consulting

14 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

S N I P P E T S Tivon to be official Diamond Jubilee partner Tivon Fine Jewellers has been selected as one of the official partners to HM The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations next year. The year-long campaign will be hosted by the Army & Navy Club, whose patron is the Queen and president the Duke of Kent and which celebrates its own 175th anniversary in 2012. The finer details of the partnership are still to be finalised, but it will include being featured in an official publication, as well as associated media and being part of the main gala event. Chamilia links up with Swarovski Just days after Danish jewellery company Pandora issued a shock profits warning, sending shares into freefall and forcing its CEO to resign, another brand in the business of selling charms and beads posts a more positive story. Chamilia has entered into a strategic global partnership with Swarovski to create a co-branded bead collection in Swarovski boutiques and a separate Swarovski collection developed for Chamilia stores. Israel to get GIA centre The Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) is planning to open a centre in Isreal during the fourth quarter of 2011. It will include laboratory, education and research facilities and provide in-lab services including GIA diamond grading reports and diamond dossiers and educational seminars on diamond grading. More silver for H. Samuel H.Samuel has announced the expansion of its range of affordable silver jewellery to meet growing consumer demand. In recent years, the jeweller has grown its range of silver fashion brands, including Chamilia and Truth, and is now building on this to offer consumers even greater choice. The Italian sterling silver Petali Di Amore range is also featured in the new editorial style in-store catalogue. Inspired by nature, this collection features butterfly and floral pieces, including earrings, bracelets, rings and pendants.

u! o y ng We loo k forward to seei

Industry News |

Unwanted watches scrapped in Ireland etail Jewellers of Ireland declared August to be National Watch Scrappage & Recycling Month. Joining forces with WEEE Ireland (Waste Electrical & Electronic Equipment compliance scheme) they have launched a major recycling drive – offering a 20 per cent discount to customers who bring back their old watches for recycling in RJI member stores during the month. Tony Cahill, president of the RJI said, “Our members are already actively involved with the EU WEEE programme, but realise that many members of the public are unaware that old watches must not be binned and sent to landfill. Through the WEEE recycling initiative, all the metals, glass and resins in unwanted watches and other materials in batteries can be recovered for use again in industry. We are encouraging the public to make the most of this incentive during the month of August.” Irish model Nadia Forde joined WEEE and RJI on Grafton Street, Dublin to help launch the initiative – shown here with Tony Cahill, president RJI and Leo Donovan, CEO WEEE Ireland.

Developments at Nuval ollowing the departure of Neil Duckworth from the company last June, Nuval, the UK distributor for TechnoMarine, Phillip Stein, Fruitz, Metal CH, Carl F Bucherer and the UK agent for Chimento Jewellery, has announced changes within the management structure. Jurek Piasecki has taken over the role of managing director and continues to be the owner and principal shareholder of the Nuval. Mark Sutcliffe has recently joined Nuval as sales director. Previously MD of DESCO Luxury Ltd distributing Maurice Lacroix watches, Sutcliffe will be responsible for sales on all brands and will personally focus on the luxury brand Carl F. Bucherer. Richard Darling, commercial director and company secretary continues in his current role. Charlotte Cherrie has been promoted to brand director. Hayley Nichols continues in her current role as account manager for TechnoMarine and Chimento Jewellery and Tonia McManus as account manager for Philip Stein, Fruitz and Metal CH. Nuval will shortly be opening a new London showroom, while maintaining its Birmingham office.

Retail recipe for money making!

Hallmarking is saved! fter a vigorous nationwide campaign championed by The Birmingham Assay Office and with strong support from the NAG and BJA, the results of the first ‘retail’ round of the Governments’ Red Tape Challenge has recognised hallmarking as a ‘good regulation’. Minister for Business and Enterprise Mark Prisk listed some confusing and overlapping regulations which were to be scrapped, but said “we are preserving good regulation, such as the hallmarking regime, for which there was strong support”. The announcement that hallmarking is no longer under threat is good news for the UK jewellery industry as the majority of responses to the Red Tape Challenge demonstrated that literally thousands of retailers, manufacturers, designers and consumers see hallmarking as a vital piece of consumer protection. Support for UK hallmarking also came from politicians and other local supporters of The Birmingham Assay Office as well as from the main trade associations. Current UK hallmarking legislation requires all but the most lightweight precious metal items to be independently tested and hallmarked by an Assay Office to verify their precious metal content prior to sale. The system ensures that the precious metal alloys, from which jewellery or silverware is made, contain the requisite percentage of high value precious metal. This is an assessment which even an expert cannot make by eye. Hallmarking therefore protects the consumer and ensures that suppliers are competing on a level playing field; particularly important when precious metal prices are at an all time high.

ake two Garys, add stuff that doesn’t sell and some innovative thinking, then melt down into cutting-edge, profit-making, design technology. Gary Baines of Gemvision and Gary Williams of Presman, have joined forces to create “a simple scheme for turning old, non-selling stock into easy-to-use, state-of-the-art, design technology, which can help drive business, put money back into the till and cement customer relationships.” Presman, the oldest ‘trade only’ scrap counter in the UK, has agreed a special enhanced deal to help retailers fund purchases from the Gemvision collection of products. Matrix Design Software, the Revo Milling System or Counter Sketch Studio, can now be bought through Gemvision using the UK hallmarked stock, most retailers have not been able to sell over the years. An additional bonus currently is the high metal prices, which depending on the date of purchase, might even mean a good profit is made on the original purchase price. For more details contact Gary Baines at Gemvision Europe on 01133 899710 (IJL Stand C120)

The Voice of the Industry 17

| Industry News Staff from Steffan’s, ‘Etailer of the Year’, receive their award. Image courtesy of Retail Jeweller

New ethical lines launched ast month saw the launch of Foundation Jewellery, an ethical luxury jewellery collection and one of the UK’s first 20 Fairtrade accredited jewellers. The company uses both recycled and Fairtrade sourced metals (gold and platinum) and the most ethical diamonds available – independently certified whenever possible. It offers a comprehensive range of classic jewellery including engagement rings, wedding rings, diamond earrings and pendants. In addition to a focused product range, Foundation Jewellery provides a full retail package, including full training on how ethical jewellery can be sold within existing ranges, recycled packaging, a compact window display and other point of sale branding. The brand has been established by Adam Jacobs and Peter Ungar, who together have over 15 years experience in retail and wholesale jewellery and are from families who have been in the jewellery industry for many generations.

NAG members win awards his year’s 18th annual UK Jewellery Awards at the Grosvenor House Hotel in London on July 14th recognised six NAG members’ successes during the glittering awards night. The event, attended by key industry figures celebrating and commending the very best in jewellery and watch retail, was presented by model and DJ Lisa Snowdon. John Pass Jewellers, Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design, Steffan’s, Beaverbrooks the Jewellers, Rox Watch and Diamond Specialist, and Fraser Hart Fields all took to the stage to collect their trophies.

Many congratulations to our NAG stars: • Retail Star of the Year Winner: Andrew Pass, John Pass Jewellers • Business Initiative of the Year Winner: Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design • Jewellery e-tailer of the Year Winner: Steffan’s • Retail Employer of the Year Winner: Beaverbrooks the Jewellers • Independent Retailer of the Year Winner: Rox Watch and Diamond Specialist • Multiple Retailer of the Year Winner: Fraser Hart Fields

Design initiative launches am Wharton, son of the jewellery designer/manufacturer Christopher Wharton has started a new business – One Stop CAD Solutions. The move follows working for his father’s business since 2000, during which time he undertook extensive training in CAD design, along with other goldsmiths in the business. A retail customer will be able to give Sam an idea or sketch of their requirements and from there a detailed image (to show his customer) and then a wax model will be produced. Once approved by the customer, the piece can be cast, set and finished all within Christopher Wharton’s own workshops, thus eliminating all the running around (casting, setting, finishing etc) for the retailer and at the same time giving the customer peace of mind knowing that the finished product will be to the very highest of standards. “With his artistic ability and a very keen eye for detail, Sam and the other goldsmiths can produce beautiful pieces that really do blend modern technology with craftsmanship and design,” says Christopher. “The result is like the best hand-made jewellery, unlike some of the typically ‘CAD designed’ blocky and cumbersome pieces on the market today.” Having completed a three-year jewellery design and mounting course at Sir John Cass College, Sam, who has just celebrated his 20th year in the trade, started out in retail at Boodles and then at David Morris before joining Christopher Wharton.

18 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

Harriet Kelsall launches design competition n a first for the UK jewellery industry, Hertfordshire and Cambridge-based bespoke jewellery designer Harriet Kelsall is to launch a design competition through YouTube. Students at the University of Creative Arts, Kent, will be briefed in October via the social media site. Students will watch a clip of an actress posing as a customer asking for a bespoke ring. The ‘customer’ will talk about her inspiration behind the ring and her budget just as in a real-life design consultation. Students must come up with four design concepts that meet the customer’s brief. The winning entry (chosen in March 2012) will be brought to life by Kelsall’s team of goldsmiths and the successful student will also be invited to complete a work placement at Harriet Kelsall giving them a unique opportunity to experience bespoke jewellery design on the shop floor. In initiating the competition, Kelsall hopes to raise the profile of bespoke jewellery design among young designers.

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| Industry News

The Kilimanjaro Challenge Robert Vander Woerd, managing director of EP Mallory & Son in Bath, great grandson of founder Edward Palmer Mallory and distant relative of George Mallory `(who may have been the first to climb Everest in 1924) describes his epic trip. t 8.30am on 9th June 2011 I reached the summit of Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, at some 5,895 metres. My principal aim was to raise money for Cancer Research UK (justgiving.com/robert -vander-woerd) in recognition of four people who died in 2010, one of whom was Kevin Coleman, the former Chairman of the NAG. After two nights in a Kilimanjaro hotel we started our walk on Saturday 4th June. We were split into colour-coded groups of seven or eight people. In my party were two professional soldiers, a lady sailor, a lady teacher and two gentlemen in the insurance and finance world. The whole group was supported by 160 porters and guides who

George Mallory (right) on Everest. RVW managed to keep his clothes on!

20 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

carried our supplies and tents, organised by the excellent Team Kilimanjaro. Our initial walk lasted six hours through varied terrain – green and teaming with animal life. This was the easiest day as we covered only six kilometres or so, arriving at 3,482 meters, having climbed from 1900. On our first night we sat outside as it was still warm, feeling immense trepidation of what lay ahead, and endeavouring to eat food which was acceptable but hardly fine dining. We were all in bed by 8.30 pm but none of us slept very well. Over the next three days we moved on up the mountain, the terrain becoming bleaker with less vegetation. Many of us felt ill and suffered from headaches. Sleeping was a problem; we were tired, but just couldn’t sleep. The dust from the walk was everywhere – in your clothes, on your hands and face. There wasn’t any water other than one bowl each evening so we made good use of hand wipes. The friendship between group members grew ever stronger. We supported each other as at times many of us felt below par and that we couldn’t go on. The most visited places on the mountainside were the WCs.

There was laughter and tears. On the fifth day we reached base camp. One member of another team was very seriously ill and was taken down the mountainside and to hospital, but it took nine hours. Even now, six weeks later he has not fully recovered. The final ascent began at midnight. Each of us, supported by a porter carrying our day pack, wore a ‘miner’s light’ as it was pitch dark and so began a walk that went on for eight and a half hours. It was cold and windy but fortunately not wet. Looking up the mountain all that could be seen was our group of approximately 100 people weaving vertically far ahead, with their lights flickering. One’s heart sank at the distance yet to climb. “Poley, poley” said the guides continuously; “slowly, slowly”. The only way to go. Permanently out of breath your brain does not understand why your legs won’t work. At about 5.30 am the sun rose, a red glow behind us almost lifting the spirits. You hoped to soon feel warm – but you didn’t. Eventually, I reached Gilman’s point at 5,300 meters and was greeted by army major Al, 6’3” and 18 stone, with a big kiss… tears in both of our eyes. We then had

another hour’s walk to the actual summit – not steep but extremely taxing. Having reached the goal, pictures were taken, the sun was shining but everyone was keen to descend; another ten hours to our overnight base camp, which meant that we had been walking almost solidly for eighteen hours. Would I do it again? Probably not. I am proud of what I have achieved. I have met people from so many walks of life including individuals who had never been out of the UK in their lives. The friendships still remain in place and probably will forever. One of the most remarkable people on the trip was Andy Blythe whose back was broken in 2005 while playing professional rugby and who was expected never to walk again. His determination to walk is a miracle in itself, but despite all his personal difficulties he got to the top – a far greater achievement than mine!

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| NAG News

Grow the expertise of your sales force with the help of an NAG seminar Essential Selling 1-day: Tuesday 20th September Following the success of last year’s dates we are delighted that Nigel Amphlett will be providing our Retail Selling Seminar. A consultant specialising in training and management development, Amphlett has over 20 years experience working with some of Britain’s largest private and public sector organisations. This one day seminar will help delegates improve selling style; beat

targets; convert sales and gain repeat/ referral business and improve confidence in dealing with customer queries or concerns. Fees: NAG members £212 + VAT, non members £274 + VAT

Essential Display 1-day: Thursday 6th October This seminar is aimed at those with no formal display training and includes instruction on the theory and practice of display. How to promote buying occasions such as birthdays, anniversaries and Valentine’s Day by creating visually arresting displays in-store will be explained by jewellery marketing expert Judy Head. Fees: NAG members £212 + VAT, non members £274 + VAT

Diamonds and Diamond Grading with Eric Emms 2-day: Tuesday 18th and Wednesday 19th October 2011 With tuition from Eric Emms, the leading UK authority on diamond grading, this practical seminar is designed primarily for retailers of diamond jewellery. The content covers the determination of diamond identity, quality and value and is presented specifically from

a retailer’s viewpoint. Topics covered include identification, treatments, clarity grading, colour grading, symmetry and proportions and cut grade determination, carat weight estimation, current diamond economics and corporate social responsibility issues. A comprehensive range of diamond qualities, simulants, treatments, and synthetics will be available for examination and a full set of seminar notes will be given. Fees: NAG members £383 + VAT, non members £522 + VAT For more information or to book places contact Amanda White at the NAG on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

NAG international golf tournament arly summer saw the inaugural NAG International Golf Tournament held at Fulford Golf Course near York. The concept behind the match was for the home countries to field teams in a match full of rivalries and a craving to be the name of the first country on the trophy. The stage was set with the club adorned with flags from the four home nations – around the putting green, hung around the clubhouse walls, and featuring on table centrepieces for dinner in the evening. The teams began arriving before 10am, which was when the first problem arose – no Irish team.

22 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

It transpired that they had been unable to raise a team, but despite the blow the show had to go on! The event was preceded by a Sunday afternoon ‘warmer’ with some of the players arriving early to familiarise themselves with the magnificent championship golf course. The format was a ‘matchplay’ competition with the aggregate of the top nine scores counting towards the final result. Ideal weather conditions resulted in a fine match, which proved to be very close and, after a re-count, England were declared the victor… by one point! Next year the contest

moves to Scotland, to be played on the 30th of April, at the testing championship course of Kilmarnock – which was the final qualifying course for the 2009 Open Championship. The course is 125 years old and is very close to Royal Troon and has the justifiable reputation of having some of the finest greens in Scotland. Anyone interested in playing for one of the countries (there is no restriction on having roots in the country, just a desire to play for them), should contact Frank Wood (details next page). An early response would be preferable as there are limited places available.

NAG News | NAG vs BJA golf tournament rganised by TH March, the annual golf contest between the NAG and the BJA took place on the 13th of July at Southport and Ainsdale championship course. After a hard fought competition between the retailers, lead by NAG deputy chairman Frank Wood, and the manufacturers/suppliers, headed by Jonathan Payton-Smith, the NAG emerged as victors for the first time in eight years. The match was held over 18 holes in the morning and 10 holes in the afternoon, in the ‘matchplay’ format, i.e. each team were playing for each hole. The trophy was presented to the NAG in the late afternoon and was proudly received by Frank, on behalf of the NAG – a great day! Thanks to Mark Smith, chairman of TH March and Co, and his team for organising this competition every year. To take part contact Frank Wood on: 01904 625274 or e-mail: info@braithwaitesjewellers.com

John Pyke (second from right) with his fellow Board members

New president for NAG he 117th Annual General Meeting of the NAG, held at the Goldsmiths’ Livery Hall on 29th June, saw the signing-in of its new figurehead. John Pyke, joint managing director of Pykes the Jewellers based in the north west of England is replacing Patrick Fuller, chairman of Weston Beamor who in 2009 was the first manufacturer to be appointed as president. “Although Patrick is a hard act to follow I will do my best to support the chairman and the Association when called up,” Mr Pyke told the meeting.

Although agreeing with the view expressed by Patrick in his speech, that there will be “significant challenges ahead”, John said that he believed “through these challenges come opportunities”. He cited the NAG’s distance learning courses now available on-line, and therefore to be enjoyed internationally, as “a massive step”. The meeting continued with the re-election of members to the Board as well as two new members joining the council: Lyn Hanmore of Lynley’s and Mark Hepworth of Robert Openshaw.

NAG tutor runs for charity any congratulations to NAG education tutor and moderator Eddie Stanley who has recently put his best fundraising skills in practice by running in a couple of charity events. Firstly on May 15th Eddie ran the Bupa Manchester 10k race which is one of the biggest 10k charity runs in the UK with 40,000 runners of all ages taking part for their chosen charity. Eddie raised over £155 for the Stroke Association. The conditions were very wet and windy but despite that he finished in a time of 1 hour 28 minutes, position 14th in his age group. The next race was the City of Manchester 10k Charity Run on July 3rd, which saw 2,000 runners of all ages, raising funds for their local chosen charities. Eddie was part of a 15-member team of runners from Carmel Church, Manchester who raised over £2,000. The money donated will help local parishioners who are homeless or in financial difficulties. Eddie managed to clock the same time again (1 hour 28 minutes) in the complete opposite of conditions: very HOT at 28 degrees. Well done Eddie from all of the team at Luke Street.

New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Member Applications Shyam Jewellers, Wembley, London Haydn Welch Jewellers, Taunton, Somerset

Affiliate Applications Alison Needful Things, Poole, Dorest

Alumni Applications Miss Julie Crompton, Inverness

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on tel: (029) 2081 3615.

New Member Applications Georga Anderson PJDip PJGemDip PJValDip, H L Brown & Son Ltd, Sheffield

Upgrading from Member to Fellow Sandra Barron GIA Gemologist, Jamieson & Carry, Aberdeen

The Voice of the Industry 23

| NAG News

NAG member of the Month This issue Amy Oliver speaks to jewellery designer Jon Dibben who is based in Cranleigh, Surrey. He has been designing and crafting his unique style of jewellery for many years. Here he speaks about some of his pieces, and the hot topic of the moment – Fairtraded and Fairmined gold and platinum. Your business was one of only twenty designers and jewellers in the UK selected to offer Fairtrade and Fairmined gold and platinum. How do you think this move will affect your business? With all honesty I’m not that sure. With fine jewellery such as ours we worry about alienating our core customer who might not expect to find our kind of pieces at the end of a Fairtrade trail. However, we are equally excited about opening this market locally to ethically responsible jewellery. It was something that we all felt strongly about doing, and it was something that we could do, on the small bespoke level that we work. So far it has been a great experience to be involved in launching the gold, a real morale boost for us all, and a tangible feelgood story to have during a rather difficult economic climate. Has there been much demand for ethical products from your customers? It’s too early to say since we are right at the beginning of the process, having just finished making our first ring in Fairtrade and

Fairmined gold. Further pieces are following rapidly. Even though we have already had stories in the local press, we only now have designs to actually promote, so now we will see what demand is like. However it is very much a process of education, and people’s response is mixed. Some just aren’t interested, while plenty have a cursory understanding of the issues and are keen to know more and do what they can to support Fairtrade. We now have our first Fairmined commission on the books, and being in Essence, the ethical pavilion at London Jewellery Week, was good for meeting new customers. We are still refining designs and quotes for some of those we met there, so this far I am happy with the response. Many of your pieces have an organic quality to their design; what would you say was your main inspiration? I live in a very rural setting, and I find myself looking intently at what’s around me. I particularly love the way nature effortlessly combines function with beauty. I don’t particularly feel the need to replicate what

I see, but try to achieve the same outcome. A lot of my designs evolve around beautiful, fine quality gemstones. I find that if I stare at them long enough, the design happens on its own; the problem is convincing everyone else that I am actually working! Is there one piece in particular that you have a soft spot for? Two actually! I’m really happy with our first Fairtrade ring, set with beautiful sea green coloured tourmalines from Nigeria. It is very strong looking, but also looks beautiful on the hand. The other ring I am really proud of is my green tourmaline meadow ring, which again is a stunner. Every week we ask our Member of the Month for a memorable story about a customer – does one spring to mind? A long time ago, when we sold a real variety of designers’ work alongside our own, one of our workshop team, helping out in the shop, went to serve a couple. She was so fazed when Ringo Starr turned round and asked for christening presents that she pointed to the nearest case and said: “We’ve got these handmade pocket knives”. Ringo stared back at her with a confused expression and said in his unmistakable accent: “Er, I don’t think that would be quite, er, appropriate actually…” Probably my most memorable missed sale. If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, please write in and tell us why! Send an email to: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org

24 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

| NAG News: Education & Training

NAG JET course enrolments grow nless you’ve been living underground for the last two and a half years, there’s no doubt you’ve realised how all news, media and culture has been backed by the drum-beat of ‘recession’ politics. While words of austerity ring through the air, the NAG has been turning the tide on industry predictions by showing a great rise in the number of people taking a JET course. Over the past year the number of candidates taking one of our JET distance learning courses has risen by over a third. With our Grow Your Own campaign encouraging business owners to consider training themselves out of the recession, it seems that members have taken up the challenge in taking a grasp of their staff training programs. Throughout this time the NAG has been searching for ways that retailers can advance staff knowledge through cost-effective training days and distance learning courses. Many companies realise that trained staff are a value-added asset for any company owner, bringing real value into a store and sales ringing through the till. The Jeweller has spoken to businesses which use JET programmes to enhance staff knowledge and service, to see why they’ve decided to take the courses and how they’ve

benefitted from them. One, Beaverbrooks, has sixty-five stores across the UK and as part of its training program put each member of staff through at least one JET course. However, we’ve not only seen an increase in our numbers from those already very familiar with JET courses. Mococco, a relative new-comer to the scene, has recently become a member of the NAG and decided to enrol ten of its staff members in the JET 1 programme. Speaking to managing director Maureen Hooson we found that her own experience had greatly affected her decision on what route to take in staff training. “I decided to train my staff through JET 1, as this was the course I took when I first started in the industry. When I opened my business I wanted my staff to have the essential knowledge that the course gave me,” she says. “The course has a lot to do with diamonds and repairs, two things which we don’t really do in our business. However, the sales confidence and customer care skills that you learn are something I wanted my staff to have. These skills are essential for all aspects of the trade, and therefore I thought it was important that my staff has this foundation of knowledge.” Hooson also recognises that from a staff perspective.

Success in selling to China n last month’s Jeweller we announced our new one-day ‘Selling to Chinese Retail Customers’ course, which was held in Oxford on the 28th of June. Facilitated by awardwinning Virada Training this exciting new course was created specifically for sales people working in the luxury retail sector. Training was given by Chinese trainer Haitong who has over ten years’ experience of Chinese language and culture training, and has helped hundreds of business people, sales staff, and diplomats to work successfully with Chinese customers.

26 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

Exceeding our best expectations, the course has proved to be more than a resounding success. The first session was fully-booked, and we’re currently compiling a waiting list for further sessions. Haitong guided delegates through the challenges faced by the jewellery retailer when selling to Chinese customers, initially giving delegates a brief outline in the understanding of China’s geography and position in the current economic market. Putting the Chinese purchaser into the context of huge cultural and economic change in China, she posed

“Anything they learn about diamonds and repairs can be useful if they ever move onto a company who does deal with these aspects. It’s a well-recognised qualification, so it’s a real benefit for staff members. However, it’s not only staff who reap the rewards. Costeffective training like the JET 1 course can benefit the company as a whole,” she adds. Considering this, it’s not difficult to see why the JET programmes are so popular with companies both new and well-established. “We’re seeing many companies in all different stages of their trading history take up JET training,” explains education manager Victoria Wingate. “For us, it shows how business owners and training managers are reacting to the recession by ‘growing their own’. It also shows how JET courses continue to provide students with an industry-recognised qualification, that benefits business in a number of areas. Throughout the last year we’ve seen two of our flagship courses go online, and we are continuing to gain positive feedback on the effectiveness of these courses. In that respect, we’re pleased that the response to our latest campaign and our updated education packages has been so positive. Thanks to our supporters and members, the NAG has provided high quality education for over 65 years, and this is just another step in continuing to do so for years to come.” For more information contact the Education Department on tel: 020 7613 4445, email them at: jet@jewellers-online.org or visit: www.jewellers-online.org

NAG News: Education & Training | the question: what does wealth mean – what will Chinese customers purchase and for what reasons? Haitong then went on to explain how approaching Chinese customers may be different to approaching customers usually experienced by British retailers. These lessons included a few key phrases in Mandarin; terms to avoid and how Chinese customers may decide to purchase. All these topics were followed by a discussion about the big ‘D’: discount – how to offer it and how to get the best chance of making a good sale. Not only that, Haitong focused on body

language, facial expressions, and those lucky colours and numbers that hold a special place in Chinese society. These lessons were finished off by covering what should be said and done when the all-important sale is made – and how to gain repeat business. Many delegates found the course “interactive and informative” while notes provided are “of excellent quality and a great study aid for future reference.” One participant said they “would definitely recommend the course to anyone looking to optimise sales from tourism and especially

from the influx of Chinese customers that is expected during the London 2012 Olympics. It was, all-in-all, a very worthwhile learning experience.” Haitong was considered by all to be “fun and approachable” – and her knowledge made the whole experience “much more entertaining”. Due to the resounding success of the course, the NAG will be hosting another session on the 25th of August this year at The Manchester Conference Centre. For more information contact Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

June’s Bransom Award winner n this month’s issue of The Jeweller, the NAG celebrates another winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award. Held in conjunction with our friends at Bransom Retail Systems, each month the Education Department enter all JET 1 Assignments into a competition for ‘best project’. Selected by the external examiners, the Award gives students the chance to be rewarded with a trip to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of certificates at our annual student award ceremony. Those who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. From the assignments received this month, the Bransom Award goes to Melissa Speight of Beverbrooks in York. We’d like to congratulate Melissa, who has managed to scoop the prize after being part of the industry for only a year. “Melissa completed

examples on how to use this important product knowledge related to diamonds.” The course is built around the essential product knowledge required in the 21st Century, supported by learning ‘activities’ and model answers which are designed to

I’d definitely recommend this course to anyone starting out in the industry, or to anyone looking to refine skills that they have already learnt on the job. all five pieces of assignment work within the scheduled dates for their submission, reaching grade A results for each,” explains her tutor Eddie Stanley. “All the course work was finished and sent in for marking within only two months. Clearly Melissa has drawn on her own retail experiences for

hands on point of view. The section where she demonstrates a customer and market awareness is particularly refreshing; it also highlights the benefits of taking the JET 1 online course.” The Jeweller asked Melissa how it felt to win the award. “It was great surprise,” she admitted. “I worked really hard on my final project, and it’s brilliant to have this reward to show for it. I took the JET 1 course as part of Beaverbrook’s initial training scheme and really enjoyed it. It has also been a great help in my work, especially in the areas of service and product knowledge. My tutor, Eddie Stanley, was a great positive influence. His feedback was always very encouraging and helpful. I’d definitely recommend this course to anyone starting out in the industry, or to anyone looking to refine skills that they have already learnt on the job.” The education department would like to congratulate Melissa on her extremely hard work, and hope that she enjoys continued success in her work and future studies. For more information on the JET courses, visit: www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom visit: www.bransom.co.uk

enhance the learners selling skills. “It was a pleasure to receive and mark Melissa’s final piece of JET 1 online course work,” adds the project moderator. “She has clearly spent a great deal of time researching the grading systems used for diamonds – her in-depth coverage of this is explained from a practical

The Voice of the Industry 27

| NAG News: IRV Review

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

NAVA extends an invite to the experts

in the last couple of years, and not just in vintage but also modern quality brands. Much of this has been buffered by the steady increase in precious metal prices. Many retailers have been finding that good quality gold jewellery has almost become too expensive to sell; as a result the re-sell market is enjoying something of a revival. The growing interest in auction houses is much to do with a more informed buyer feeling confident within the saleroom. The many daytime television programmes on the subject have helped dispel the myth that the saleroom is solely a trader’s preserve.

The National Auctioneers and Valuers Association invited the IRV to make a presentation at its forum for Chattels Valuers and Auctioneers held earlier this summer. IRV forum member and Fellows Auctioneers insurance manager Geoff Whitefield represented the Institute, together with Stephen Whittaker, Fellows’ managing director. uch of the NAVA is focussed on property as well as agricultural/plant machinery. It was, therefore, a novelty for the IRVers to have the opportunity to talk to delegates who are more used to weighing their metals by the tonnage rather than the gram! After an introduction to IRV, Stephen and Geoff’s presentation highlighted some of the recent trends seen at auction in regard to

28 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

jewellery, silver and watches. The title given was ‘Hidden Gems’ with these coming not in the form of gemstones, but rather obsolete and second-hand pocket and wrist watches often left languishing in the back of a drawer or safe, unworn, unloved and often too costly to justify repair and restoration. There has been a noticeable increase in interest in the second-hand watch market

This, coupled with the power of live bidding via the internet, means that geography has little boundary for the busy private buyer. Some words of caution were offered by Geoff who is more used to presenting workshops on customised watches. While an item may seem like it represents good value for money when compared to window RRPs, it is essential that you can trust the seller to identify and disclose after-market attributes correctly as these can have a serious impact on worth and maintenance options. With many retailers now starting to offer pre-owned branded watches and jewellery Fellows is delighted to offer appraisal and authentication services direct to the trade. Another guest speaker from HMRC spoke about some of the new money laundering legislation that has come into force more recently. More details are on their website: http://www.hmrc.gov.uk/mlr/getstarted/ intro.htm The afternoon session included a very interesting presentation by the Antique Trade Gazette in regard to broad auction trends and how they are working to expand on the statistics and data they can make available to users of the-saleroom.com

NAG News: IRV Review |

Japonisme: from Falize to Fabergé Also earlier this summer, by kind invitation of Geoffrey Munn of Wartski, a group of NAG IRV members, co-ordinated by FIRV Shirley Mitchell, had the opportunity, for a private view of a remarkable exhibition – Japonisme: from Falize to Fabergé. Rosamond Clayton RIRV FGA DGA MAE, was among the attendees. ithout the depth of knowledge of those at Wartski – on so many aspects of the decorative arts – the jewellery world would be a poorer place. Over the last few years they have held exhibitions of a wide range of important objet d’art, jewellery, silver and reliquary items. The exceptional quality of the exhibits has been a wonder to behold, and the learned information provided in the catalogues a ‘must have’ for valuers. For those who attended Japonisme: From Falize to Fabergé there was valuable information, interestingly narrated by Katherine Purcell who curated the exhibition and gave a great deal of time to describing and giving the background history of the individual pieces on the day of the NAG visit. The huge scope of the exhibition was made possible not only through generous loans but support from many of the leading museums and jewellery houses, together with advice from a number of individual jewellery historians. Prior to the mid 1850s Japan had remained isolated and therefore Europe was in ignorance of its artistic design and talents expressed in the decorative arts. In 1862 at the London International Exhibition, the first opportunity to view the full range of Japanese Decorative Arts was made possible, in particular through the collection of Sir J Rutherford Alcock, the first ConsulGeneral to Japan who took up his post there in 1858 and had become a great admirer of the Japanese style. Paris 1867 saw nine million visitors view the first display of

Tiffany and Co gold and platinum chrysanthemumshaped brooch

the Japanese new concepts in design at the Exposition Universelle. Interestingly, the exhibits on display at Wartski did not include any Japanese items but those of the great jewellery and silver artists inspired by Japanese design including: Falize, Lalique, Tiffany and Co’s designers, Fabergé, Fouquet, Boucheron, Cartier and others, together with silver pieces designed by Christopher Dresser which revealed the Japanese sources inspirational to him. This exhibition revealed the link from whence many of these designers derived their influence and inspiration and the following are a few of the exceptional items that were on show: Falize studied the Japanese techniques of wood cut prints, which was his inspiration for the cloisonné enamel necklace and matching earrings loaned by the Ashmolean for this exhibition. The necklace is composed of ten curved rectangular sections, at each intersection a chased gold rosette and suspending five pendant sections graduating in size from the centre. The necklace and pendants are decorated with bird and floral motifs – the enamels by Antoine Jard. Also shown were Falize bracelets, the panels painstakingly executed. The front of the bracelets decorated with Japanese motifs,

but inside (the reverse) decorated with vibrant colours, redolent of Chinese taste or a more modern look. One of the exhibits was a centrepiece by Boucheron designed by Paul Lagrand, made around 1889. It’s an amazing creation containing numerous objects and artistic techniques: composed of silver and cloisonné enamel. It depicts a young Japanese artist kneeling on a stool painting a screen in plique-à-jour enamel; there is a book with applied chrysanthemum motifs and beautiful chasing of two owls on a branch. Interestingly Japanese boys were always shown with Chinese features and in Chinese dress. In Japan there was no history of wearing jewellery apart from in the hair. This gave the inspiration for the horn combs of René Lalique – the decoration on the combs very much secondary to the horn. A further carved horn comb by Lucien Gaillard was one of the exhibits, the surmounts with open-work floral motifs set with baroque pearls; the piece beautiful in its restraint and simplicity. A slightly more ornate item by Tiffany and Co was a gold and platinum brooch in the form of a chrysanthemum comprising a massive cluster of natural Mississippi river pearls, the stem and leaves set with diamonds. The chrysanthemum was a Japanese Imperial motif but with an earlier history dating back to the 15th Century BC in China. A further double chrysanthemum corsage composed of natural Mississippi river pearls by Vever was first exhibited at the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1900. All aspects of nature are depicted, both disturbing and gracious. Particularly striking is an enamelled and ice blue opalescent glass pendant in the form of a winter landscape by René Lalique, depicting snow-laden trees at the side of a lake. Some beautiful examples of Fabergé animals were shown – carved variously from nephrite, bowenite, chalcedony and a number of other materials all characteristic of Japanese netsuke subjects. Additionally, pieces by Fabergé executed in silver and gold cigarette cases are decorated with Japanese motifs. To source and collect items of such variety and exquisite quality and to provide such a wealth of information in this exhibition and the accompanying catalogue was an incredible achievement.

The Voice of the Industry 29

| BJA News

Join us at IJL he BJA will once again be exhibiting at International Jewellery London when the show opens its doors for business on 4th September. This year however our stand will, at my instigation, have one significant difference – we shall be sharing the space with our sister trade association – The National Association of Goldsmiths. The stand (H151) will be branded ‘The Voice of the Industry’ for this is exactly what our two organisations provide. Individually we each speak out strongly on behalf of our respective memberships, but our combined voice gives us a greater power to proclaim on the larger, pan-industry, countrywide and global issues which affect the whole jewellery supply chain – manufacturers, suppliers and retailers alike. Recent months have provided plenty of instances where a strong collective industry voice was much needed – not least over the ‘Red Tape Challenge’ and the ensuing threat to the hallmarking system (now, I am happy to say, withdrawn) and the Channel 4, Dispatches TV programme The Real Price of Gold. Our solidarity and clearness of purpose has undoubtedly paid dividends

bja.org.uk relaunched he BJA has launched its new website – bja.org.uk – with a fresh look to support its ever-expanding services and benefits. Katie French, the BJA website and information co-ordinator, has worked closely with the London firm Pixl8 to design a system that supports the huge database containing detailed members information. “It has been an interesting and challenging process and I have learnt lots about member requirements and how to succinctly present the massive amount of information about their products,” comments Katie French. Come and visit the BJA stand H151 (opposite the Seminar Theatre) at IJL for a personal virtual tour of the site!

30 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

and I have no doubt that it will continue to do so as we face more, as yet unforeMike Hughes, chairman of the BJA seen, challenges together in the months to come. Our CEO Simon Rainer and his team would very much like to meet members and non-members alike to tell you more about our lobbying role and about the many other useful business services the BJA provides – some of which are highlighted in the following pages. Remember our voice is YOUR voice. Belonging to The BJA ensures that your opinions will be sought and your views represented where and when they matter most. So why not join us at IJL and let the BJA do the talking?

Michael Hughes, Chairman

New member of BJA team nna Gibson has recently joined the BJA as Membership Manager – sales. Her move follows a successful time as manager of the Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter Marketing Initiative, where she built up an extensive network of contacts with the local jewellery trade and media. Her duties included organising events and producing a variety of marketing campaigns and literature. Prior to this she was Communications Manager for Marketing Birmingham where she was responsible for an extensive publications portfolio. Anna’s new role at the BJA not only covers membership retention and recruitment of new members but new events which can benefit the membership through wider exposure. Recent initiatives include BJA members showcasing at the Aegon Classic Tennis event and the successful BJA Golf Day. Email her at: anna.gibson@bja.org.uk

BJA News | as is the Commission A Designer page to help the public find local jewellers. Members Area/Services (left) This password-protected Members Only area will allow members to view all the services with detailed contact information of the BJA service providers. This section will also house the downloadable Guidance Notes and other industry information including personal updates from the CEO to give our members instant accessibility and up-to-the-minute regulations. A dynamic new feature of the members section allows individuals from member firms to update their own company details and display their product images. “We have updated the member services and have added relevant new services to the Association’s portfolio,” says Lindsey Straughton, BJA marketing manager. “Plus, The Designer Showcase gives our designers the opportunity to enhance their entry with more images to help sell their products.” Bringing this section right up to the minute is a tool enabling members to customise the information they want to view on a regular basis via the members’ area of bja.org.uk Home Page (previous page) As the hub and entry point for all visitors this area has to be crisp and easily navigated. To this end the menu directs the visitor to either the Members, Industry or Consumers Sections. “Our aim has been to create tabs that will clearly guide people to their desired location more efficiently, thus enabling the site to be used by both the trade and consumers,” explains French. “The new quick search facility highlights their area of interest, enabling users to easily find Members, Products or Services via the dedicated shortcut.” Useful Industry Information (below) A new dynamic feature is the RSS Newsfeed presenting news from industry publications and the daily metal fix from Cooksons Precious Metals. Whats New will bring news stories to the front page as well as announcing the latest member to join and best new member press release.

The usual Events Calendar – which has always received many hits on our site – will reference top exhibitions worldwide. The Careers page will provide members with a platform to advertise for staff, while the popular BJA Press Point section will continue to provide journalists with members’ Press Releases and latest images. Consumer Area (right) This newly updated and enhanced section provides the consumer with guidance on how and where to buy jewellery and silverware in the UK. Areas include Hallmarking and Nickel, Ethical Purchasing, Buying Gemstones and Selling for Scrap as well as a new Frequently Asked Questions log. Directories of members who sell to the public on-line are segmented by discipline helping the buyer find the specialism required. Retailer and Galleries are divided up geographically Advertising Opportunities Very competitive rates have been offered with members receiving preferential rates: • Home page banner yearly rate: £1200 +VAT discounted to £1000 +VAT for members • Home page button yearly rate: £600 + VAT discounted to £500 + VAT for members • Sub page button yearly rate: £500 + VAT discounted to £400 + VAT for members Contact Katie for further information on 0121 237 1108 or katie.french@bja.org.uk

The Voice of the Industry 31

| Feature

The lore and the profits Jack Ogden, Gem-A’s CEO, explains how a little bit of knowledge, humour and imagination can support gem knowledge to boost sales.

What are the ‘benefits’ of a sapphire apart from its colour? It might match your customer’s eyes, clothes or veins, but so would blue glass. And except in rare cases it would be wrong to imply that the gem would ever provide great financial returns. Jewellery ownership today may be a sign of wealth, but is seldom wealth itself. To sell coloured gems you need to add a layer of enticement and interest, and believe me, customers love a story. Gem-set jewellery selling today needs a combination of benefits and features. Your customer doesn’t want to know the numerical

Have the Law on your side – hematite was traditionally helpful for those involved in law making. Copyright Gem-A. Photo: Jack Ogden

he woman was demanding but not exactly specific. She wanted a present for her husband’s birthday. “Do you have any particular thoughts on what he’d like?” asked the manager. The answer was a shake of the head, a combined shrug and pout, and a “No”. Cufflinks were suggested, and the woman seemed to brighten at the thought. “What is your husband’s profession?” asked the manager. “Lawyer” came the answer. Bingo! A pair of fine cufflinks was produced — not a selection, mind you, just one pair — set with haematite. The dialogue then went a bit like this: “These cufflinks are set with haematite, a metallic-looking stone that is definitely very masculine and perfect for him. According to ancient lore haematite is good for law makers. You and I might not believe that, but he’s a lawyer, he’ll believe anything.” Laughter, and the sale was made instantly. That’s a true story — I was in the shop when it happened. It’s an example I use to point out that however much of a gem fan you are, selling gems to the public is not always easy.

32 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

It takes knowledge and imagination. Reading the label or counting on your customer’s Google search is not enough — everything now needs a story to sell it. Customers expect it. I am not just talking about gems; you can’t see bangers and mash on a menu these days without knowing the name of the pig and the parish where it lived, or the breed of spud that accompanies it. Jewellery is no different; customers yearn for a story, and gems are fertile ground for this — particularly now that coloured gems sales are growing.

Steak holders The sales textbooks and seminars are still rattling on about selling the ‘benefits’ of something rather than the ‘features’. “Sell the sizzle not the steak”, they say. I’m not sure that that is completely true anymore (we want to know from which field the steak came; we want to know more ‘back story’ as the media guys say), and I’m not convinced that it was ever fully true with gems.

A perfume bottle carved in amethyst, a beautiful stone and a beautiful object, and it might even keep you stone cold sober. Copyright Designs from memory.

at IJL Visit us 15 1 Stand E

The Voice of the Industry 33

| Feature

This little ring was made between about 1300 and 1400, a time when the emerald set in it would have been considered to help the wearer’s memory. Nevertheless, its owner lost it – the ring was found by a metal detectorist on the Isle of Wight in 2009. Photo Jack Ogden.

hardness of a gem, but will be impressed if you give guidance on its durability and care; they don’t want to know the complexities of how light rays pass through the stone, but will be wowed when you show the almost magical way in which the stone looks different colours in different lights. That’s why most successful jewellers have (or employ people with) at least some formal gemmology training (the NAG now approves the Gem-A Foundation in Gemmology Course). But what else can you say about gemstones to entice your customer? Tradition and history are the only real options and both are potentially a huge help in selling jewellery — think of the jewellery associated with engagements or weddings, for example. People want to buy a story when they buy a gem, they want something to justify their illogical yearning for a sparkly pebble.

Hit and myth Put your hands up if (even in the past, if not today), one of your primary means of selling coloured gems (other than sapphire, emerald and ruby) has been by using birthstone

associations? Did you really put faith in the supposed mystic powers of such stones, or did you latch onto it simply as your best hope of selling, say, an amethyst (February), praying that your customer would be neither sceptical nor brave enough to enquire more deeply? If someone had asked you to explain what being a birthstone actually meant, what on earth would you have said? If you put your hand up — and I guess many UK retail jewellers would if being honest — you have admitted that you have made use of mystical/magical aspects when selling gems. So add a bit of history, humour and thought, and really get those gem-selling juices going. Did you know that wearing amethyst was supposed to stop you getting drunk? That’s cooler than somehow ‘representing’ February. Surely you can envision a scenario in which that fun little snippet of old beliefs will help your customer love the jewellery piece and she won’t be able to wait to get home and tell everyone who’ll listen all about it. Amethyst is suddenly the ideal gift for the boss or a mother-in-law. Peridot prevents you from going mad.

Gemythology Here are some of the mythical properties of gems, recorded from Medieval European sources dated at least 800 years old. Gems that were not known at that period are not included. The web is full of other traditional ‘powers’ of gems which have varying degrees of historical accuracy — fun to look at, anyway. Sapphire Emerald Amethyst Peridot Garnet Aquamarine Onyx Turquoise Lapis Lazuli

Symbol of purity in thought and action, and helps the wearer to bring about peaceful agreements. Improves memory and, supposedly, keeps away tempests — useful for sailors. Prevents drunkenness. Prevents madness and thus also expels stupidity and confers wisdom. Gladdens the heart and dispels sorrow. Good for a debater, also drives away enemies and makes a person well-mannered. Drives out licentiousness and makes the wearer chaste and modest. Protects the wearer from misfortune. Cures sadness.

34 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

You’d have to be mad to believe that, but it is another bit of fun lore that can add a layer of interest and history to an attractive gem. Obviously I’m not suggesting that you expect your customers to believe this stuff (although if some do, respect their feelings and sell lots of gems to them), it is simply that some knowledge of stone lore provides you with a wealth of anecdotes and history

Stones to keep you sane: peridot was long thought to ward off lunacy. Copyright Gem-A. Photo Jack Ogden.

that can add an amusing or enticing story to the gems you are selling. You are not misleading your customers in any way. To say that a sapphire is traditionally a symbol of purity is no less valid a marketing ploy than to say that a diamond ring is a traditional symbol of love — indeed the sapphire tradition predates the diamond one by a thousand years or more. So, add a little colour to boost your coloured gem sales. Gems provide abundant opportunities to generate customer interest and fascination in your jewellery, all you have to do is add the wisdom and the wit. See www.gem-a.com for more about Gem-A’s gem education, from our day seminars to our UK accredited Gemmology Foundation Course and Gemmology Diploma Course, the longest established and most highly respected international gemmology course. Our courses can be taken as day or evening classes at our Hatton Garden headquarters, at one of our numerous teaching centres in more than twenty-five countries around the world, or via distance learning. Gem-A also provides tailored inhouse gem training for individual companies.

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Future Adorn Insight Trend analysis agency Adorn Insight specialises exclusively in jewellery, identifying a wide range of global trends which are distilled into fine and fashion jewellery applications. A key ‘macro’ trend, is the nostalgic ‘Revival’ and is broken down into three ‘micro’ stories: SHO

Deco Dreams (above) A response to post-WW1 austerity, Art Deco symbolised modernity and glamour. As we find ourselves again in times of global uncertainty, bold deco-inspired designs come to the fore in a host of striking styles.

Before you hit the aisles at IJL next month, it might be useful to consider some of the design/style trends that are forecast for the following 12 months or so. During London Jewellery Week in June, Swarovski Gems presented Gemvisions 2012, its take on the future of jewellery. Meanwhile, at IJL, two leading trend prediction houses – StyleSight and Adorn Insight – will offer their own views of the year ahead at seminars during the show. Here’s a taster of the nuggets of inspiration…

36 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

Danielle Scutt

Shanghai Nights (above) With all eyes on emerging Asian markets, Eastern influences abound. This mood – shown to perfection in the jade, red and black palette at Ralph Lauren A/W2011 – references the decadence of ’20s Shanghai when it was known as the Paris of the east.

Trends The Sensing Matter (main picture facing page) trend is all about sensuousness. Supple, buttery leathers can newly apply to jewellery in padded varieties. Simplicity is invoked with streamlined and minimal forms in a range of calming tonal colours. Noble and strong materials, such as stratified stone and marble, create sturdy shapes with gentle colour effects.

Tiffany

Gem Drops (above) It started with Mad Men and has been gathering momentum ever since. As spotted on the A/W12 catwalks at Bottega Veneta and Jean Paul Gaultier, chic ’50s styling continues to fascinate, and pretty, single colour, gem-set jewellery suites form part of the repertoire.

present and future; reality and dreamlike augmented reality; intense and technical innovation and finally, exuberant creativity and aesthetic excitement. Studio A new, anti-industrial expression for vintage, heirloom and heritage. A soft, soulful mood, showing the mark of the maker. Handmade and artisanal, simple, honest yet polished with elegant refinement, inspired by ’50s studio pottery. The color palette comprises neutrals, fruity tones and retro combinations. Key concepts focus on lyrical line and interesting texture.

Ana De Costa

Style Sight Raw Energy (main picture overleaf) looks to the body this season for structural and material influences. Jewellery inspiration begins in the interior workings of human anatomy, referencing cells, veins and bones. Cutouts or intersecting lines will reflect a distinct graphic focus. Wild Craft (above) is all about the great outdoors which will influence forms, colors and materials. Raw stone materials will be the stars of the season, with stratified, sedimentary rocks featuring bold and dramatic jewellery styles. Tribal themes will be key.

Fantasy (below) Drifting away from ordinariness, reality and normality, mastering the art of illusion. A journey into an extraordinary, rich, imaginary universe of hyper-reality, of lush, opulent and intricate gardens of magnified flora and fauna. Elaborate, intricate and embellished, this trend explores modern opulence. Roberto Coin

Digital Dimension (left) speaks of newness and innovation. This forward-looking trend merges advanced engineering with hi-tech materials. Rapid prototyping and 3-D printing will be essential in generating new structural dimensions. The resultant fluid aesthetics of this manufacturing technique creates feminine forms.

GEMVISIONS FROM SWAROVSKI GEMS A number of ‘spirits’ weave throughout the five key directions: a merging of past,

The Voice of the Industry 37

Future Trends

Nouvelle Vague (right) Devoted to Zirconia, a retro-modernist, cinematic trend – sleek, timelessly classic, androgynous – that celebrates sartorial perfection and impeccable cut. This appeals to the smart, classic dresser, with a modern outlook, and an intellectual and artistic streak, who aspires to statement diamond jewellery. Colors are black and white.

Swarovski

Luminescence (above) Architectural, abstract and geometric, with a flavour of ’90s techno revival and a clean, modernised, industrial touch. The consumer is young, or young at heart, influenced by entrepreneurial teenage celebrity children: Lourdes Leon, Georgia Jagger, Julia Roitfeld. Colours reference a ’90s revival, with an emphasis on techno-neon brights, a fluorescent, rainbow effect and strong clashing contrasts.

Stephen Webster

38 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

Fiction (left) The influence of sci-fi delivers the dark and morbid glamour of gleaming futuristic tribal warriors, earthy, metallic, primitive – inspiration is from bones, myths and legends, yet dazzling and couture-like. For the unpredictable and adventurous jewellery wearer, epitomised by Lady Gaga. Colours are earthy, with orange and red accents, or night sky shades of black and grey.

Ernstes Design

| BJA Feature

Simon says! BJA CEO Simon Rainer looks ahead to the forthcoming IJL show and encourages visitors to make the most of the event. ne of the great benefits of my role is to be able to meet and talk with people involved in the jewellery industry on a daily basis. Of even more benefit is the number of different opinions that are expressed over key industry issues – we all tended to agree on the opposition to the Red Tape hallmarking challenge, others like topics relating to the gold and diamond supply chain, result in far more divided opinion. What is important is to listen to what is causing concern and take the appropriate action. For many years both the BJA and NAG have often approached industry issues independently, which I know has caused some frustration within our respective memberships. Our industry now faces several major challenges which will have a future impact on the UK retail and supply chain and it makes absolute sense for both the BJA and NAG to work together to provide the respective memberships with full, coherent information and, wherever possible, workable solutions. In particular, I refer to industry concerns regarding security and supply chain issues, with consideration to the growing requirement for companies to demonstrate good and visible corporate social responsibility credentials. And it is for these reasons that both Associations have been busily working together to fully understand both current and potential issues to present a ‘Voice for the Industry’. The IJL exhibition presents a wonderful opportunity for our collective work to be

Such an involvement has allowed my perspective of the show to change and I would strongly urge all those attending to make the most of visiting as many exhibitors as possible to get a real sense on what the British jewellery industry has to offer. This year there will be a superb selection of the UK’s brightest designers, manufacturers and suppliers on show in addition to a dedicated area for watches. And let’s not forget that IJL is perfect for networking and catching up on the latest gossip and trends! Underpinning the whole show is the excellent selection of seminars and I do urge you to go to the IJL website and see what is on offer. Over four days

40 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

“put on show” and for the first time in our individual histories we will be sharing stand space at this year’s fair. Our respective teams will be more than happy to explain the work that we are currently undertaking together, not forgetting our involvement and lobbying with International organisations such as CIBJO and the RJC. A visit to our stand H151 will be well worth your time! For many years I have attended the IJL as both a visitor and as an exhibitor. I am now in the very privileged position of sitting on the IJL advisory board which meets several times a year to shape and plan forthcoming shows. This has allowed me to fully understand and make a small contribution to the visitor and exhibitor ‘experience’, while appreciating the hard work needed to put such a show together.

…make the most of visiting as many exhibitors as possible to get a real sense on what the British jewellery industry has to offer. there are more than 50 seminars to choose from with topics ranging from security, branding, e-comms, trends, social media and of course the ever-popular ‘Great Debate’ which explores all matters ethical. I was surprised to learn recently that IJL is nearly 60 years old and for the show to have had such longevity is a true testament to its theme and structure, not forgetting the continued support of trade associations, exhibitors and visitors alike. I hope that this year’s IJL is a great show for you and that as a visitor you walk away having discovered a great new supplier, and as an exhibitor you finish the show with a full order book. Whatever your role, I hope you have an enjoyable time and perhaps most importantly realise what a great and vibrant industry we all work in.

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| BJA Legal

Bribery & Trademarks Belonging to the BJA gives members access to 20 minutes of free, telephone advice and discounted fees from the Association’s solicitor Steeles Law. Here Richard Bailey, a partner in the firm, looks at two areas of the law – Trademarks and Bribery – which can have important implications for jewellery businesses but which are frequently overlooked.

Trademark registration If intellectual property is an important part of your business, as it is for so many creative companies, it is quite possible that a significant proportion of its value may relate to your trademarks. If you have a distinctive name or logo this may well be capable of registration as a trademark, and this can be done both in the UK or elsewhere. If your name or logo is copied and it is not registered, you may have to take action for ‘passing off.’ This is generally much less straightforward than an action for infringement of a registered trademark. In addition, showing that your mark is registered may well act as a deterrent to copying in the first place.

It’s important to realise that trademarks are national in character and if protection is important elsewhere in the world, you should consider whether to apply for registration in other countries too. To be capable of registration, marks need to be distinctive and not associated with your goods or services, in that they should not be descriptive of them. It is also important to consider whether there are existing marks that may lead to confusion, as the owner of a similar, earlier mark may oppose your registration.

42 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

This is a very brief introduction to a broad subject, however trademarks need not be complicated and there is guidance on the Patent Office website: www.ipo.gov.uk

Bribery The Bribery Act 2010 came into force on 1st July 2011and is an example of new law that would be easy for small businesses to ignore. However doing so would be a mistake because instances of ‘bribery’ anywhere in your business and anywhere in the world could lead to criminal convictions for directors or senior management. The penalties can be severe with up to 10 years imprisonment and unlimited fines. The definition of ‘bribery’ is wide but includes giving or offering a financial or other kind of advantage to someone to encourage them to do something improper or to reward them for having done so. As yet however the law is untested and just how it will be interpreted is unknown. The Act has introduced a number of offences, including a new corporate offence of failure to prevent bribery by those working on behalf of an organisation and ignorance of their employees’ actions will

which sets out ‘six principles for bribery prevention’, recommending that organisations carry out a risk assessment and introduce appropriate policies and procedures to reduce the risk of bribery taking place. The guidance recognises that small and medium-sized businesses with limited risk will not necessarily need to introduce such extensive procedures as larger businesses. You should look at this guidance and consider it carefully. Prominent among the preventative actions possible would be to introduce an anti-bribery policy to demonstrate your commitment to preventing bribery of, or by, your employees. This need not be a long or complex document as it only needs to be proportionate to the risk of bribery within the business. However, should the worst happen, you may be very glad of having adopted such a policy. In addition, disciplinary rules and procedures should make it clear that a breach of the anti-bribery policy will be treated as gross misconduct by employees and further that a breach may lead to termination of relationships with non-employees. For more information contact Richard Bailey of Steeles Law solicitors: 01603 598 000

Instances of ‘bribery’ anywhere in your business and anywhere in the world could lead to criminal convictions for directors or senior management. The penalties can be severe with up to 10 years imprisonment and unlimited fines. not be sufficient to escape liability. However employers will have a defence if they can show that they have ‘adequate procedures’ in place to prevent bribery within the organisation and this is worth doing. Guidance has been published on the Ministry of Justice website (www.justice.gov)

This feature is intended to give general background information and should not be relied upon without taking legal advice on your specific circumstances. No responsibility is accepted for any action or inaction based upon these published articles.

MANUFACTURER OF DIAMOND & COLOURED STONE JEWELLERY IN 18K GOLD & PLATINUM

VISIT US AT IJL ON STAND G49

Web: www.greenspark.co.uk Telephone: +44(0)161 436 6600 Fax: +44(0)161 283 2621 Email: gems@greenspark.co.uk

Just days away and the anticipation is mounting for International Jewellery London 2011. Belinda Morris previews some of the highlights of this major event in the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s calendar.

SHOWTIME! Jianhui butterfly necklace (Stand D1)

IJL Preview | ho’d be an exhibition organiser? It can’t be easy pulling together a major international fair that draws-in, stimulates and satisfies a seen-it-all-before bunch of globetrotting buyers… and that’s before considering the demands of anxious exhibitors and cynical media types! But the folk at Reed who are behind IJL have, once again, pulled out all the stops to put on a show befitting our dazzling industry. The marketing speak for the attention to detail you’ll be met with at Earl’s Court this year is ‘enhanced visitor experience’, which roughly translated means a host of interesting changes and developments: new product sectors, new exhibitors, new show features, new trends and more opportunities to listen, learn and air your views than you can shake a stick at.

Unique; a.b.art; Classic Time; Storm; Jon Vincent and Rocks-Watch will be vying for your attention. Underscoring the show’s emphasis on fine jewellery the Platinum Trail, now in its fourth year, will lead visitors on a path around the aisles to view new and innovative platinum collections and pieces. As always this will culminate in design awards, including Retailers’ Choice. And unveiling the jewellery stars of the future is the Bright Young Gems initiative, which gives a commercial platform to rising stars via a group stand in the Design Gallery.

BQ Watches Stand H48

One of the new product zones that promises to be particularly exciting is the Designer Brands area, which will be launched within the popular Design Gallery. “A selection of established and iconic designers will be unveiling new collections here,” explains co-event director Sam Willoughby. “Designer Brands will add even more selection and opportunities to find your next best seller.” Among those showing in these aisles is Jeremy Hoye who plans to launch three new collections as well as a new line produced for EA Sports’ Sims3 game as part of an interesting collaboration. He can be found alongside top designer names like Babette Wasserman, SHO, Sarah Jordan and Rachel Galley who will also present their latest collections. Returning to the IJL fold is Andrew Geoghegan, with some attention-grabbing

Jewellery struts its stuff Silver Willow Stand F49

cocktail rings. “I took a break from trade shows to focus my attention on developing my business, securing relationships with my retailers and to simply have the time to spend designing,” he says. “Now it’s time to come back and show everyone exactly what I’ve been doing in the last five years!” Winning the Editor’s Award for Visual Impact with his ‘Satellite’ cocktail ring is a pretty auspicious start to his homecoming. Another dedicated product area is Loose Diamonds & Precious Gems and this will draw attention to gem companies which provide only high quality loose diamonds and precious stones. Radiant Diamonds, Kristal Diamonds, AS Diamonds, Imagem, Smets Diament and Apsara are among those showing. While watch brands have always been present at IJL, a zone specifically for them is a first for the show. BQ Watches with its comprehensive choice of prestigious timepieces; Since 1853 which is introducing new brands; newly-launched Festina at

The IJL Runway – a new catwalk running the entire length of the Boulevard – is being sponsored by Aagaard. Two shows are scheduled for each day of the fair, providing visitors with a dynamic showcase of designer jewellery. Each catwalk show during the four days will be unique in order to generate maximum interest and freshness. “When buyers, retailers and press come to a key industry show such as IJL, they want to leave feeling inspired. The IJL Runway will bring the latest trends and collections to life. IJL was the first of the UK jewellery trade shows to feature a catwalk and it will return for 2011 to highlight the fact that there are so many new brands and high quality collections being launched,” comments co-event director Syreeta Tranfield. The Runway themes are: ‘All that Glitters is Gold, Trends’ by Hilary Alexander, ‘Modern Vintage’, ‘Every Cloud has a Silver Lining’, ‘The Bridal Collection’ (Gold, Platinum, Palladium & Diamond), ‘Watches – A Moment in Time’, ‘The Rainbow’ (gems) and ‘Fairtrade and Ethical Jewellery’. There is also a sponsored catwalk show by The Houlden Group – ‘Houlden Highlights’.

Unique Jewelry Stand E115

The Voice of the Industry 45

| IJL Preview Knowledge is Power Creating a bit of a buzz on the show floor will be the new purpose built seminar space – the Inspiration Theatre – providing jewellery trend sessions, panel debates and keynote speakers. For instance, Jeremy Hoye will discuss unique collaborations with a focus on his latest venture, and Elizabeth Galton will speak about redefining luxury in the digital ages.

Celebrity jeweller Stephen Webster will take part in the Great Debate, which is hosted by the Birmingham Assay Office. He will talk about Fairtrade Fairmined Gold and show a video he made earlier this year while travelling to find out more about the issues. This will be the first time the film is shown at a large industry show and Webster will take part in a Q&A session with the rest of the Great Debate panel following the screening.

NAG Workshops

SHO Stand E60

Shop-in-shops will be debated at the event, and a panel of experts from the Goldsmiths’ Company will identify the latest developments in materials, processes, training and hallmarking. On their stand they will provide demonstrations on assaying and hallmarking, including the testing of jewellery items ‘live’. Martin Rapaport will also reveal his annual report on the state of the diamond industry. Keeping ahead of trends is an ideal way to run a successful jewellery business, and top forecasting agency Stylesight will identify upcoming trends to inspire visitors. The show is all about successful retailing, and this will be covered in depth in the seminar programme. Shop owners and managers can experience a snapshot of a brand new inspirational programme, in the Mary Portas Guide to Successful Retailing seminar. Retail Theatre will be the focus for a motivational seminar by Insight with Passion, providing vital information about how to improve and enhance the in-store retail experience, and everything from online opportunities to mobile commerce will be covered in other seminars. F Hinds will also reveal the outcome of its High Street By Design competition launched last year in a seminar about the initiative.

46 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

This year there will also be three workshops being hosted by the NAG and held in the Victoria Room. The first, on Sunday, is ‘Security – keep it simple’, during which Mark Beale, crime prevention coordinator, Metropolitan Police will discuss ways in which jewellers can improve their security and how the police are working in partnership with the jewellery sector to this end. On Monday Alan Townsend, chair of SaferGems Industry/Police Liaison Group, will explain the backdrop to this ground breaking jewellery industry security initiative; the partners involved in its development; why it is vitally important for retail jewellers and the successes it has achieved over the past two years.

The Tuesday workshop is ‘Market Towns – their Health, their Role, their Future’, which will be given by Mike King of Action for Market Towns. He will offer a review of the economic performance of market towns over the last three years, dispelling myths and providing some interesting insights. He will also outline the changing role of market towns in a national context and give case studies on what the future holds for those

London Road Stand G141

retailers and businesses located in the UK’s 1,240 small towns. All seminars and workshops are free to attend for IJL visitors. The full seminar programme and details can be viewed at: www.jewellerylondon.com/seminars

NAG and BJA join forces This year the NAG and the BJA are uniting on one stand at IJL – a confirmation that the two associations really are ‘the voice of the industry’. The NAG will continue to focus on its ‘Grow Your Own’ theme that has been at the centre of promotions this year. The campaign aims to motivate members’ efforts towards new beginnings by encouraging them to ‘grow their own’ business/ sales staff. Keeping staff up-to-speed and motivated will help to ensure that businesses stay on track. With a little help from the benefits and services at the NAG it is hoped to plant the seed in order to maximise the potential of sales staff – via the NAG’s education and training courses – while joining the next Executive Development Forum group will provide the latest retail directions and so keep businesses ahead of the game. As always there will be the opportunity to meet staff from the NAG and BJA teams, a chance to win a NAG members-only competition and, of course, enjoy a glass of champagne. We look forward to welcoming you on the stand (H151).

Mobile Event Guide for Smartphone users You can now download the new IJL mobile event guide to keep you up-to-date with everything from the show and jewellery community. It contains all the latest news, exhibitors, seminars, show highlights, videos and social media links from IJL. If you have a smartphone you will be able to access all this information on your mobile helping you plan your visit and make the most of your time at IJL this year. Just insert and save the following link into your browser and you’re good to go: ijl.klarents.com

new 2012 collections will be launching at IJL visit Gecko stand F12, Earls Court 2

To become an authorised stockist, contact Sales on T: 01376 532 000 E: sales@geckojewellery.com

| IJL Preview

KICKSTART 2011 he KickStart initiative was launched as a bursary scheme for fledgling jewellery designers attending IJL for the first time and three years on it still acts as a commercial launch pad for 10 promising designers at this prestigious show. The project has been supported from its inception by the BJA and marketing manager, Lindsey Straughton advises participatants in a pre-event workshop, hosted by the show organisers, as well as practical help on the stand during the show. “KickStart provides a wonderful platform for new dynamic designers and this year an added bonus for these lucky exhibitors is the new ‘KickStart Trend Award’, of a year’s subscription, worth $7,500, to the innovative trend service given by top trend forecasting agency Stylesight”, explains Straughton. Visit KickStart 2011 on stand C31 in the Design Area

EMMA TURPIN

Designer Claire English’s jewellery is luxurious and unmistakably English. Her whimsical designs are informed by her insatiable interest in the narrative potential of objects. Like a magpie she gathers stories – Claire sees herself as a 21st Century bricoleur, adept at presenting familiar items in mischievous and unexpected yet commercial ways. www.claireenglish.com

CLAIRE ENGLISH – SPECIAL JEWELLERY CO

Emma’s aim is to bring the old and the new together. She has a passion for traditional craftsmanship which is reflected within her style, and at the same time she continually strives to create contemporary, wearable pieces of jewellery. Her ‘Maidens Garlands’ collection uses a technique she developed by herself to create handfolded fine silver rosettes. www.emmaturpin.com

CABBAGE IS KING

Greig Alderman impressed the judges with his unique, imaginative style. Ranging from statement pieces, which serve to blur the distinctions between jewellery and art to the purely decorative, Cabbage is King is characteristically original incorporating sociological ideas into his designs. Each item is beautifully presented in a recycled box. www.cabbageisking.com

DORETH JONES

ABIGAIL STRADLING

Abigail’s signature glass jewellery combines hand blown hollow forms and lamp working with precious metals, creating work that is truly unique. The distinctive 'Time' series encapsulates natural materials sourced from various locations, evoking a sense of place, time and memory. Her second collection explores the concept of Symbiosis through the relationship between two materials – glass and silver. www.abigailstradling.co.uk

48 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

Doreth creates both contemporary and classic jewellery in her London studio and has made new and exciting pieces for her debut at IJL. Working in recycled silver adorned with vibrant coloured gemstones, her awardwinning pieces embody urban chic which will appeal to the discerning individual. www.dorethjones.com

SARAH IBRAHIM

LA DIOSA

Sarah’s work is inspired by her heritage, travels and love of small and intriguing containers. It has an organic handmade feel with an industrial edge. ‘Keep It’ and ‘and then…’ make up Sarah’s first collection – ‘The Beginning’. Incorporated within these pieces are hidden lockets with bright gold leaf interiors and simple yet bold triangular shapes. www.sarahibrahim.co.uk

La Diosa , which means ‘The Goddess’ in Spanish, specialises in coloured gemstones and the resulting jewellery is striking and alluring. Each piece is hand-made and inspired by the rare and unique stones carefully selected to create it. Having learned how to make jewellery while living in Mexico, the award-winning designers Natasha and Semhal have kept an exotic influence in each design. www.ladiosa.co.uk

MIRPURI

Elegant and sleek, Mirpuri’s attentiongrabbing jewellery tastefully strikes a fine balance between a.m. subtlety and p.m. glamour. A former city banker, Johnny Mirpuri’s designs lend themselves especially well to the use of blackened sterling silver and draw on a combination of computeraided technology and traditional handcrafted techniques to bring them to life. www.mirpurijewellery.com

GINA MELOSI

AMY KEEPER

Amy Keeper jewellery is contemporary and handmade, using vintage postcards to create sterling silver pieces, evoking contemporary cameos. Inspired by a spyglass in a children’s story, her black and gold range features gemstones and elements of movement. www.amykeeperjewellery.co.uk

Gina will be launching a new collection at the show to sit alongside her debut collection of jewellery ‘Shattered Fragments’. These crystallised designs, where glass shards create a delicate yet dangerous effect, are produced by casting broken glass fragments in recycled sterling silver. Each piece is finished with polished surfaces and then plated in white rhodium or rose gold, the latter pave-set with fairly traded sapphires. www.ginamelosi.com

The Voice of the Industry 51

W HAMOND

Established over 150 years ago, W Hamond specialises in producing hand-crafted, fine Whitby jet jewellery and is now being presented, for the first time at a trade fair, by CW Sellors. The ‘Cross your Heart’ collection comprises silver and gold pieces featuring a cross encasing a heart-shaped gemstone… including jet of course. Stand G79

NOMINATION

Called ‘Secrets’, this new collection from Nomination comprises necklaces and bracelets that feature a key – as a symbol to ‘share your secret, and unlock the door to your heart forever’. Made of sterling silver and featuring either clear or black Swarovski zirconias, the necklaces and pendants are set by hand in nominations workshops outside Florence. Stand F111

CW SELLORS

IJL KEY LAUNCHES These new expandable bracelets combine spherical beads and interchangeable traditional style charms. The range is available in a wide range of gemstones including various colours of agate, turquoise and mohave purple metal matrix and are available in either smooth or geometrically fashioned beads. The charms are attached with feature lobster claw fastenings onto a sterling silver loop highlighted among the beads. The charms are available in either the classic heart cross or a range of Love Hearts with different colour enamelled affectionate messages. Stand G71

52 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

AAGAARD

‘From Soldier to Soldier’ is inspired by a hand-made bracelet created to remember a fallen soldier during a tour of duty. Made from woven parachute cord (like the original) the bracelet fastens with a silver or gold plated lock. £15 of the RRP of each item sold will be donated to Help for Heroes Trading Ltd. Stand F11

IJL Preview |

KIT HEATH

Artisan captures the craft of Chantilly lace in silver and 18 carat gold plate. Light and layers are used to create statement rings, ear-hugging intricate hoops and show stopping drops and necklaces. Stand F91

HEARTBREAKER

Froggy, Heart to Heart, Bambi and Skull and the four pretty self-explanatory themes in the new Heartbreaker collection. All in sterling silver they feature a variety of materials from pearls and enamel to zirconia stones in different colours and come with complementary POS material, packaging and displays. Stand E115

DOMINO

‘Champagne Accents’, ‘Classic Vintage’, ‘Diamond Bubbles’, and ‘Diamonds in Bloom’ are the four new trends in Domino’s Diamond Ring Mounts collection. Art Deco styles, ’50s looks, the royal engagement ring, embellishment, natural beauty and stones used as a ‘palette’ are among the themes on offer to tempt customers. Stand G131

TI SENTO

‘Into the Wild’ is Ti Sento’s latest line, which celebrates a more natural style. Wood and earth tones are combined with rhodiumplated twisted silver and plaited leather. Stand F161

ANIKA RUTLIN

Annika Rutlin’s new sterling silver ‘Mandala’ Collection tackles the dilemma of providing something new and different in a difficult financial climate by creating designs with a low metal/high impact. The designs are inspired by the idea that there are three circles under the earth that support the world, according to ancient Indian cosmology. The lowest is a circle of wind, then follows a circle of water and at the top is a circle of gold upon which the land is formed. Stand B46

The Voice of the Industry 53

TROLLBEADS

REVUE THOMMEN

The original Danish brand of collectable charm jewellery will be celebrating its 35th anniversary with an IJL exclusive limited edition ‘Peacock’ bracelet. The unique bracelet will be available only to retailers who visit the stand. Also showing will be Trollbeads Universal Uniques™. This new collection of individually designed, hand crafted one of a kind Italian Murano glass beads features a universal sized core which allows the beads to fit all major charm bracelet brands. Stand F90

With a history that goes back to 1853, Swiss watch brand Revue Thommen will be showing for the first time at IJL. This new Airspeed model is one of around 250 styles in the 2011 collection, which is distributed in the UK through Since 1853 Ltd. Stand H141

CHAVIN

Combining ethics with aesthetics is Chavin, a new ethical jewellery collection, inspired by ancient Peruvian culture and mythology. Designed by Ana De Costa, the pieces are hand-crafted in Peru using sterling silver vermeil and oxidised silver, with splashes of coloured stones. See p.85 for the full story. Stand D10

GEORGINI

KLESHNA

Showing at IJL for the first time is this eight-year old branded jewellery company, designing and producing its collections in Australia. The pieces are created from rhodium-plated sterling silver, set with cubic zirconia and gemstones. Stand F150

54 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

The ‘Lourdes’ collection plays with multichain styling, pairing sleek silver chain with geometric crystal discs concentrated in clusters around the necklace in either twinkle AB or a deep Labra silver. The complementary bracelet is a simple but effective row of crystal discs on chain. Stand C70

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| IJL Preview

HOT DIAMONDS BABETTE WASSERMAN

JESSICA JEWELLERY DESIGN

Representing ‘celestial eternity’ is Hot Diamonds’ new Gemstone Orb collection – available in a variety of styles and colours. The rich, luxurious Amethyst Orb charm and earring set from the ‘Just add Love’ line is crafted from sterling silver and features real diamonds. Stand G130

These stylish micro gem-set ID bracelets feature a mix of different coloured plating and stones – such as 18 ct yellow gold vermeil set with ruby cubic zirconias. The set also includes matching necklaces on delicate gold chains decorated with diamond-cut silver beads. Also in the new line is an ebony wood collection of rings and bangles set with gemstones. Stand C60

Winner of the ‘editor’s choice’ award in 2010, Jessica Sherriff will be showing her new ‘Stained Glass’ range which features hand-printed bold and colourful sections of her photos of a leaded light window. The jewel-like acrylic pieces include earrings and pendants as well as bangles. Stand B15

GEMEX

ALICE MENTER

Exhibiting for the first time, designer Alice Menter will be showcasing her signature, statement bracelets made with silver and gold-plated hexagonal nuts, and available in a variety of shades. Using suede and silver-plated washers is a scarf that blurs the line between jewellery and clothing. She will also be launching a collection of men’s pieces at IJL. Stand C95

56 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

Winners of Best Platinum Bridal Collection at this years’ UK Jewellery Awards, Gemex, has launched a further 200 bridal diamond ring designs since IJL 2010. The precision-set Raphael Collection rings all feature E-G colour and VVS- VS clarity diamonds. Gemex will be featuring engagement rings to complement its bridal rings, as well as its 4 carat plus range of eternity bands. Stand H38

Nature

WWW.CREATIVWERBE.DE

touched by

Precious sting ray leather with silver

JEWELS Sterling Silver

International Jewellery London September 4 - 7 2011 Booth C161 VIVENTY UK (Sole distributors for UK and Republic of Ireland) PO Box 13 Midhurst West Sussex GU29 9YP Telephone. +44 (0)1730 815 995 www.viventy.de info@viventy.co.uk

OSO

Silver jewellery specialist P Kennedy is launching a new brand at the show: OSO – One Season Only. The ethos is to supply bold, statement pieces for the modern, fashionconscious 20-35 year old woman and the new line takes its inspiration from New York – clean lines but with an edginess. The range revolves around 10 timeless pieces, priced between £200 - £500, with limited edition runs each season. There will also be two more competitively-priced sub-ranges: Chic and Stylistic. Stand E61

Festina presents the new Chrono Bike 2011 collection with 16 new gents chronograph models with a sporty design combined with advanced technology. Eight models are fitted with solid stainless steel bracelets, eight with a black rubber strap. The large round robust case includes many features with cycling connotations. Chain links have been included in the design of the top ring and the sub dials have the form of the chainwheel. Stand E115

JERSEY PEARL

Charmian specialises in bespoke work in precious metals. Showing at IJL are ranges in silver or silver with 18ct yellow gold set with diamonds and coloured gemstones. The ‘Mariposa’ cocktail range includes lemon citrine, round brilliant cut diamonds and moving sections and diamonds on the cocktail rings. Stand D108

This contemporary swirl-design sterling silver ring is set with a freshwater button pearl. also in the new collection is rhodium-plated silver bracelet adorned with jersey lily incorporating white freshwater pearls. Stand F81

58 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

CHARMIAN BEATON

FESTINA

MIDHAVEN

There are over 30 styles and a variety of colours to choose from in Midhaven’s new line of braided bolo leather and stainless steel bracelets – many of them new for IJL. Stand F51

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For a live demonstration visit us at IJL

Stand C120 T: 0113 3899710

E: gveurope@gemvision.com

www.gemvision.com

| IJL Preview

TORGOEN SWISS

Established 13 years ago, this USA-designed, Swiss-made watch brand (using Swiss movements) takes as its tag-line ‘Nothing Impossible’ and the first brand ambassadors for the brand in the UK are British Touring Car Championship drivers Matt Neal and Gordon Sheddon. High achievers on air and sea as well as land will be involved with the brand as it develops in the UK market. Distributed in the UK by Since 1853. Stand H141

THE BRANCH

The use of mixed media is proving popular for Mounir not only because of a lower price range but also thanks to the interesting look. Sterling silver – mostly oxidised components – with 9ct gold and gemstones, comprise Mounir’s signature style. Statement earrings are strong this season, with rubies, garnets, green and purple amethysts and lemon quartzes. Stand E48

The Branch, which combines wood with precious metals and gemstones, is introducing its new ISIS range… inspired by ancient Greece. New this season is snakeskin used with the wood, as well as new colours of stones. Stand B41

ANDREW GEOGHEGAN

This ‘Mohawk’ ring is among the new collection of pearl cocktail rings that Geoghegan will be launching this year, along with his first range of gents’ wedding rings and an accessory collection. Latest additions to best-selling pieces such as the Triumph ring set with brilliants and the square stone Satellite ring will also be shown. Stand E64

60 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

In rhodium-plated sterling silver this ‘Argento’ collection offers fashion-led pieces that combine cubic zirconia with pearls. Also in the line is the Lucky Charms range of over 1,000 different designs of clip-on charms to create personalised bracelets. Stand E115

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The Voice of the Industry 61

| IJL Preview

SHEILA FLEET

‘Wild Grasses’ is Sheila Fleet’s latest collection featuring hand enamelled layers of silver and gold wires. Delicate free flowing gem-set forms reflect the natural wild grasses of the windswept northern landscape in northern Britain and Sheila’s home in Orkney. Stand A59

GECKO

Celebrating 20 years in the business this year, Gecko will be showing the new collections of its six brands. Fiorelli Costume comprises a glamorous collage of texture and sparkle for pieces that include this statement necklace of orchid blooms cast in gunmetal grey and set off with crystals and pearlised drops. Stand F31

LUCET MUNDI

New bracelet collection Lucet Mundi (Latin for ‘light of the universe’) combines design with mysticism and launches with four signature lines: Lucky Amulets, Power Beads, Chinese Zodiac and Stardust. Each comes with its own story and meaning – a gift with depth. Stand F140

VIVENTY

Sting ray leather is the highlight of the new nature-inspired Viventy Jewels collection – the German brand launches for the first time in the UK at IJL. In a variety of colours, the robust, sparkly material comes in a variety of colours and is trimmed with white zirconium for rings and bangles. Stand C161

62 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

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| IJL Preview

ALRAUNE

German brand Alraune Lifestyle will be launching these leather bracelets with stainless steel magnetic clasps from the ‘Alraune Juno’ line. Also showing are charm systems, created from sterling silver, gemstones, cultured fresh water pearls and/or enamel for endless combinations. Stand K40

CURTEIS

From the gemstone orb ‘Instinct’ collection comes this necklace featuring Swarovski Pearls in light blue, powder rose and green and dark purple, with sterling silver filgree bead caps. Also showing at IJL is a collection of four-picture family lockets. Stand H121

STORM

Among the latest watch collection from Storm is this Orina style. With its domed casing, inlaid with enamel to form a mosaic design; off-set dial; polished steel strap and curved lines the look is sleek and contemporary. Stand G95

STEP BY STEP

Hand-crafted in Switzerland this collection uses high quality and rare metals – such as Tomback, a copper alloy – for bold and contemporary necklaces, chokers, earrings and bracelets, always in a limited palette of silver, gold, red and black. Stand G48

JEREMY HOYE

The ‘Libertine’ collection comprises pieces with a ‘renaissance vibe’. The inspiration behind the bold, new line is to create designs that could be from the past or the future. Men’s and women’s necklaces, earrings, bracelets and off-centre stone set rings bursting with colour feature. Stand E68

64 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

EURO PEARLS

From Euro Pearls comes Perlissimo, a contemporary collection using sterling silver and high quality freshwater pearls. The re-launch of Takara offers a new collection of nine and eighteen carat jewellery, while Yoko is the premium collection containing some of the most beautiful and unusual pearls designed in magnificent settings. Stand G41

| Feature

the

Jeweller Brand Profile

London Road Belinda Morris meets the brother and sister team behind an exciting new gem-set gold jewellery brand t a point when we seem to be witnessing an explosion in the number of silver jewellery brands on the market, there is at least one company that is bucking the trend. Showing at IJL for the first time, London Road – which launched two years ago – is filling a potential gap in the market for gem set gold jewellery to retail at well under the one thousand pound mark. And the decision to focus on this niche market seems to be paying off. In fact it is the first time that the company that gave birth to London Road – a third generation UK-based manufacturer of fine jewellery – has ever exhibited at any trade fair. However, Suzanne Adams and her brother Ed, the directors who have created the new brand, now feel that the time is right. “The confidence is there now – we’ve grown into the brand and into our own skin,” says Ed. “London Road has been building up well, with success in stocking customers we already know and we’re now ready to reach those we don’t know.” The idea for London Road actually came to Ed and Suzanne in 2008. “The recession was coming, but before

66 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

it did we had accumulated some capital and wanted to do something with that,” explains Ed. “We recognised the growth of brands in the jewellery business, which was slow compared to other industries, but then it mushroomed with names like Pandora and Links,” adds Suzanne. “But we could see that there was a market gap for gold gem set jewellery in the £150 to £600 price range. Retailers were telling us that they hadn’t got anything in gold at these price points. London Road would offer attractive products for those retailers not wanting to stock silver,” she says. Added to this, the pair realised that the consumer was also wanting more “fun and fashion-led jewellery – but under a highquality brand”. While silver is obviously popular and has proved to be a business-saver to many, it is not destined to be on the London Road menu anytime soon, if ever. “It carries very large margins; it is not as good value poundfor-pound and so is very expensive compared to gold,” says Ed, “and we want to bring things to the market that are good value. When we’re looking at creating a collection we start at a retail price point and work backwards – we go back to the designs and try different ways of manufacturing to achieve those prices.” Most of London Road jewellery is made in 9ct gold – although a few pieces are crafted in 18ct. “People are delighted that it’s gold and are just not fussed to have 18ct,”

says Ed. “There is no longer the stigma about having gem-set 9ct gold.” It may be a new brand, but very much to its advantage is the fact that London Road has a very well-established family business behind it, with all the integrity that this might imply. It is peopled with skilled craftsmen and pattern-makers, with the majority of stock made on the south London premises. “Once gold prices have become more sensible,” says Ed, “we aim to produce all the jewellery in-house.” The company was founded post World War ll by Ed and Suzanne’s grandfather who

Feature | worked as an engineer on aeroplanes, but had been an apprentice jeweller, trained at the bench. When the war was over he set up a business making and repairing jewellery, bringing his sons – including Ed and Suzanne’s father – into the company. With lots of money around in ’50s and ’60s London (most of it cash) the business was able to do very handsomely, selling to the very many jewellers that existed within a ten mile radius then. Specialising in fine diamond and gem-set jewellery in 18ct gold, the workshop was turning out around five to ten huge cluster diamond rings a day. The 1970s though were harder times and to accommodate this 9ct gold was introduced. After travelling the world and working in marketing and PR, Suzanne decided that sales were what she was best at and so joined the family firm about 22 years ago. In 1992 – having always said that he wouldn’t – her brother also agreed to “give it a go”. “Our father was very hard on us both and started us on the lowest salary he could get away with!” remembers Suzanne. “After two years he let me have the whole collection to sell from and there was lots of scope to open accounts in different parts of the country.”

Their father retired from the business around 10 years ago. “He found it very painful but eventually realised that it was best to step away completely,” says Suzanne. “It had to be all or nothing as he is very hands-on – it took him a long time to retire!” So what does he think of London Road? “He does approve of it; he’s embraced it… apart from the intangibles like brand-creation and marketing,” she says. “But you can’t cut corners on things like that any more than you can on producing jewellery.” Creating London Road was no finger-inthe-air, hit-or-miss affair. A brand consultancy was employed to help develop it, from the name and concept through to the finer details such as packaging. An older generation might have felt that these were elements that could have been hammered out around the (family) boardroom table, but Ed and Suzanne have no doubts that theirs was

the best course of action. “It was a new and interesting process,” says Suzanne. “The agency knows what’s going to click with the consumer – it was worth paying the money.” The chosen name allows for plenty of creative scope and interpretations, with each season seeing a launch of new collections with names like Bloomsbury, Burlington, Kew, Pimlico and Portobello to mirror the colour and diversity that London is renowned for. Within each collection are sub-lines – like Raindrop and Bubble – that describe the various forms and moods of the pieces. Besides the rose, yellow and white gold core, the key emphasis of every collection is coloured gemstones and diamonds. “Colour is fun and fashionable and we’re good at buying these stones,” says FGA-qualified Suzanne. “We know what we’re looking at. It’s also fun using less precious gemstones like the different types of quartz – prehnite and rultilated for instance – with unusual cuts like cabochon, cushion and chequercut,” she adds. “A key trend is rose gold and we’re really enjoying using it. So many English complexions suit it more than yellow gold – although the look is changing back to yellow for the future.” For added warmth as well as texture, gold gilding on top of gold has also been employed for certain designs – in the Kew collection for example.

So where does the inspiration come from for each in-house created line? “Inspiration is to be had everywhere; nature, things you see in the street, as well as archive patterns – it’s amazing how things come around,” says Suzanne. “We change and adapt designs from the company archive to bring them up to date.” Many of her influences are also derived from vintage jewellery. “As a child I was dragged around antique fairs and markets like Portobello and Bermondsey by my father. He used to buy things like opals that people didn’t understand.” The inherited love of design, colour and gemstones is evident in London Road – with pieces that range from subtle, classic and understated to vibrantly show-stopping and trend-led. There are coloured freshwater and Tahitian pearls – including a beautiful bronze pearl sitting atop and gold ring in the

“People are delighted that it’s gold and are just not fussed to have 18ct… there is no longer the stigma about having gem-set 9ct gold.” Burlington range; black and cappuccino diamonds set in 18ct white gold with a black rhodium finish in the Bloomsbury Ball line which also includes brilliant orange sapphires, rubies and tsavorites for the rings and pendants, while the very grown-up Carnaby friendship bracelets combine gold with a variety of different colour silk cords. At IJL visitors to the stand will be able to see existing as well as new collections, including pieces created by a young designer who has been working with London Road. “We’re looking to work with more young designers in the future,” explains Ed. “They can learn a lot from our business – particularly working with the guys on the benches and it’s great for us to be able to give something back. We also want to be proactive with our collections in the future and we’re putting a lot of energy into that. This means working very closely with our retailers, including areas like advertising. This is pretty key – there has to be a partnership for London Road to be successful.” www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 67

| Insurance Matters

Playing it safe at the show

IJL is almost upon us and lots of businesses will be caught up in the preparations for the show and the anticipated new business that will be received as a result. With thoughts elsewhere, the insurance implications of exhibiting at such a large fair can be forgotten. Neil McFarlane of chartered insurance brokers, TH March talks us through the areas that shouldn’t slip our minds. here are many and various problems that can arise, especially in light of misunderstandings over the level of cover provided under standard insurance policies. For exhibitors there is the risk associated with attendance at the trade fair itself and these come under various headings: • Stock and trade stands and fixtures and fittings: does your policy extend to cover attendance at trade exhibitions? If so, is the extension sufficient to cover the values at risk? Commercial policies are traditionally subject to an underinsurance condition, which means that if you insure for 50 per cent of the value taken to the exhibition any claim will be reduced by 50 per cent.

•

Public liability: have you notified your insurers that you regularly attend trade exhibitions as there may be an exclusion within your policy. Also, a number of exhibition event organisers demand a minimum level of cover of £5,000,000. While this can often be purchased separately, it can be cheaper to increase the limit under the annual cover rather than take out small extensions to cover the two or three exhibitions attended.

•

Loss of profits: does your policy provide cover for loss of profits arising from problems at the event? Most policies will not and do require specific extension. This cover is not widely available but

68 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

some insurers will give cover. As an example, a fire on your stand causing damage to property which leads to a loss of profit arising from the event can be insured. Again, you will of course need to have told your insurers that you are attending events. As an exhibitor you spend a great deal of money preparing for an event but what happens if the event is cancelled or abandoned due to a fire or flooding at the exhibition centre perhaps? Insurance is available from several markets to cover the irrecoverable expenses incurred if an event is unavoidably postponed, abandoned,

cancelled or relocated as a direct result of an occurrence that is entirely beyond your control. In addition, cover is available for potential expenses that may arise from your inability to open your stand or space due to physical loss or damage to the venue or your own exhibits during transit or from delays in arrival. Naturally there are various exclusions which apply to this form of cover but the general insurance offered does cover the majority of situations which could arise. That said, if the event is held in the open then understandably much of the cover is not generally available.

Retail issues A retailer who visits exhibitions to see the latest ideas, meet suppliers and potentially place orders for new jewellery, might travel a long distance and therefore take a laptop, mobile phone and personal property to a fair. But if the laptop is owned by the business, does the business policy provide cover for the laptop outside the business premises? Cover is readily available at minimal cost. Personally-owned property can easily be insured as an extension to Home Insurance under a standard extension – providing cover for personal possessions outside the home. This would include, for example, loss or theft of items from a hotel room, from a parked car or items stolen surreptitiously while talking to an exhibitor. Beware, however, that some policies may exclude cover of property left in unattended vehicles or may require the laptop to be kept in a locked boot or glove box. These claims do occur. A T.H. March client attended an overseas fair and while he was in discussion with an exhibitor, put his briefcase by the side of the chair only to find that by the end of his conversation it had disappeared. The briefcase contained a laptop, mobile phone, wallet, credit cards, plane tickets and receipts of expenditure. This not only caused inconvenience but the total value of property stolen totalled over £1,000 – all of which was covered for an annual premium of just £10. If you require any advice then T.H. March & Co Limited are happy to provide this, especially bearing in mind that policy wordings can vary between insurers, so it’s imperative to ensure that you have requested the appropriate levels of cover.

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Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

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Ensure you are kept in the know with a subscription to the only jewellery trade magazine that is exclusively supported by the industry’s two key trade bodies for retailers and manufacturers – The National Association of Goldsmiths and The British Jewellers Association. Normal cost of 10 issues including postage and packing = £77.00. With 20% saving you pay only £61.60. Either subscribe at our stand (H151) at IJL or complete this form and return by the end of September to: The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

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The Voice of the Industry 69

| Security

Praise where it’s due Michael Hoare reminds us of the unsung security heroes and reports on yet another SaferGems success. ack in July I attended the British Security Industry Annual Luncheon at the Hilton on Park Lane. The occasion was also the opportunity for the BSIA to make a number of awards to people in the security industry who have shown particular courage, aptitude, or knowledge. The guest of honour was Lynne Featherstone, MP for Hornsey and Wood Green (Liberal Democrat), and Parliamentary under Secretary of State, Equalities and Criminal Information. Michael Ferraro, managing director of insurance brokers T H March, and I were asked along as co-sponsors of our joint SaferGems initiative and used the occasion to open up a dialogue with the Ministers’ advisors on a number of subjects. With no disrespect to Ms Featherstone, the contents of her speech, which seemed so impactful at the time, have been completely erased from my mind by the passage of time. What has stuck with me however, is the memory of the awards which preceded lunch. It’s easy to be blasé about awards ceremonies and mock the seemingly minor achievements they seek to honour. But unlike the purely manufactured nature of so many such events, with their disingenuous expressions of passion and unwarranted floods of tears, these were the real thing.

70 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

There weren’t any BAFTA winning performances, just recognition of the normally unsung and unassuming people who keep us safe day in, day out. The people who take control when things go wrong, the people who prevent suicides, protect the desperate, or put their first aid knowledge into practice; all to serve us, the general public. And let’s not forget those who simply watch and wait, the CCTV operatives whose skills keep many a shopping centre safe. Unsung heroes they may be, but as police numbers dwindle away these are the new first-line of defence in the fight against business crime. As our SaferGems experience has shown us the boys in blue need a leg up from time to time and these are the men and women who provide it.

Praise indeed Speaking of unsung heroes, we’ve got a couple ourselves. Here’s what one satisfied member had to say about them: “I would like to thank the team at SaferGems for keeping the trade up to date quickly with the latest scams. Following the recent Ascot races scam alert last week I was faced with two suspicious young men the next day trying to make a substantial purchase on a business card. Because of the alert I was

confident enough to take details from them i.e. mobile phone number – although they had not actually committed an offence. After they left I called the local police immediately, passing on the information and descriptions. So keen were the men to use their fraudulent card, they called the store back asking for my bank details while the police officer was here taking the information. They then went on to commit several offences in the town. Because of our swift action the police had the information to apprehend them as they left the county, and by 5pm that night they were in custody. I have no doubt that I would not have been so quick to pick up on the potential risk as quickly as I did, had I not read the previous alert. Nor would I have been so keen to report my suspicions if it hadn’t been such a similar operation! Certainly as far as I’m concerned the intelligence provided by the SaferGems service makes our lives just a little bit safer and the criminals’ job more difficult. Thank you and keep up the good work!”

The net widens The good news this month is that as well as over four thousands users, SaferGems is now not only involved in national enquiries, but also going international with information being shared with the UK Border Agency and the International Crime Bureau at the Serious Organised Crime Agency. In June we assisted in the circulation of images of goods stolen from across Europe including high value watches stolen from France; Colombian emeralds worth £750,000 stolen from a sales rep in Zurich, and also a money laundering investigation in Slovenia involving gold bars. The team has also received information and CCTV images from jewellers as far away as Cambodia. This is all very exciting, because tracing stolen jewellery has always been a frustration. However, we’re not just interested in high profile cases. If you have information about incidents closer to home, get in touch with the team at: intel@safergems.org.uk or call 0845 2727 802.

w w w. s a f e r g e m s . o r g . u k

The Voice of the Industry 71

| Legal Jeweller

Protecting jewellery design: Hargreaves’ Report – help or hinderance? Bill Gornall-King, partner in the commercial and technology team at law firm Boyes Turner, outlines the findings of a new report on intellectual property protection. he UK is renowned globally for its innovation, not only in technology but also in creative industries, with jewellery design no exception. In the early days of the coalition government, Prime Minister David Cameron emphasised the need to achieve economic growth and more rapid innovation. He concluded that the existing UK framework of intellectual property protection failed to strike the right chord to encourage growth through innovation. In November 2010, the government appointed Professor Ian Hargreaves to examine the issues surrounding protecting innovation through intellectual property. He reported his findings in May 2011, with a White Paper to follow soon. His report has attracted much media interest, mostly focusing on digital copyright for our knowledge-based economy. So how is the Hargreaves’ report relevant to jewellery designers?

The Present Law There are a variety of different and sometimes overlapping methods of protecting jewellery designs against copyright breach. The oldest and strongest is the copyright protection that is granted to works of artistic craftsmanship. This gives the creator of the work protection for life, plus 70 years. Difficulty has always surrounded its scope. Perhaps, because of this, there have been very few cases brought before the courts. As with other forms of copyright, it is an automatic but unregistrable right and, therefore, requires a careful audit trail to establish its existence and date of creation. The other forms of protection consist of registered design, UK unregistered design

72 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

right and unregistered community design right. UK registered design gives monopoly protection for periods of five years renewable up to a maximum of 25 years. The protection is of the overall appearance of the design excluding features dictated by function. There is a requirement of novelty and the design must have individual character. UK unregistered design right is, like copyright, an automatic right that lasts for between 10 and 15 years. The right prevents copying of the article made from the design which must be original and not commonplace. In addition, there is unregistered community design right similar to the UK protection, but lasts for only three years. Infringement can be pursued throughout the European Union.

Hargreaves and Design Right Prof Hargreaves, in his report, expressed surprise that, given the economic importance of design to the UK economy, design was not explicitly mentioned in the review’s terms of reference (the fashion design industry in particular has lobbied extensively

In contrast, Anti-Counterfeiting in Design (ACID) reported to the review that around 30,000 designs are added to their electronic database annually – this protects designers by providing an audit trail to substantiate design ownership should the designer’s rights be infringed.

Conclusions Hargreaves concluded that as design makes an important contribution to the growth of the UK economy, he felt it unsatisfactory that there is currently limited knowledge of how to optimise the intellectual property framework to support continued growth. Prof Hargreaves therefore called for an assessment of the relationship between design rights and innovation, with a view to establishing a policy for protecting innovation at both a UK and European level. The recommendations in the report are a long way away from changing legislation to protect jewellery designers. The report, at least, brings hope of simplification and clarification of designers’ rights; however it will require active lobbying from all those

As with other forms of copyright, it is an automatic but unregistrable right and, therefore, requires a careful audit trail to establish its existence and date of creation. to change this). In addition, he remarked upon the confusing range of current (overlapping) rights (as identified above). Prof Hargreaves noted that current design registration levels are extremely low with only about 4,000 UK designs registered annually, which indicates that present public registration systems do not meet the needs of users from the design industry.

involved to ensure that they do not remain the poor relation to, and get overshadowed by, the main agenda items of the Hargreaves’ report. Bill Gornall-King is a member of the Law Society’s Intellectual Property Working Party and is involved in the preparation of their submissions to the Hargreaves’ report.

| BJA Feature

Branding the key to attracting and keeping customers Mark Levell, is managing director of the Birmingham branding consultancy, Levells. Mary Brittain spoke to him about the wide range of marketing services his company is offering at discounted rates to BJA members and discovered why he believes consistent branding is crucial if a jewellery business is to attract and retain its customers f you were to ask a cross section of jewellery companies – suppliers or manufacturers – what keeps their customers coming back, I guarantee that consistent branding would not necessarily be top of most people’s list. However for Mark Levell, who has over the years worked with a number of big name firms across the luxury goods sector, this is something that he sees as being absolutely fundamental in building and maintaining good long-term business relationships. “A jewellery purchase is unlike any other and the consumer needs to feel special from the very beginning of a transaction,“ he explains. “Apart from the website and of course product brochures, there are many other equally important contact points, which all businesses have with their customers. These range from signage, and stationery, through to their display material, reception area and branded emails. At Levells we are also now working with jewellery designers to create Apps and social media to engage current and new audiences. All these communication channels have a visual element that needs clarity and consistency to ensure that your company’s core ethos and values are accurately relayed to your customers,” he adds. Understanding exactly what a company’s ethos and values are in order to give them visual form, is the starting point for any branding project which Levells undertakes. “The first thing we like to do is to set up focus groups with a company’s sales team and its designers. These people are perhaps the company’s best ambassadors. They speak

74 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

volumes about its products, as well as underlining why a business is special and different. They tell the story of the business as it really is and in effect represent the end product. They lead us to its core values and frequently the key themes distilled from such conversations will drive the whole communications process,” Levell says. This was a technique employed when Levells was employed some years ago by Johnson Matthey NY (New York). “We based the brand and the literature on a purely platinum colour approach, to underpin the values of the metal they were promoting.

a new strategic direction for a business’s marketing plan as well as its communication,” he explains. For Mark Levell the first and arguably most important point of contact, is now the website. “This must be consistent with the overall brand, including the tone of voice, messages, imagery and interactivity. Research has demonstrated that buyers evaluate a business from its website in just a few minutes, so you don’t have very long to impress. The use of a blog, Twitter or other social media can also say much about a company and these all offer additional, effective and efficient ways to communicate with various audiences,” he continues. However branding cannot work in isolation and Levell is only too aware that to be done successfully it must integrate with the business’ existing marketing strategy. “It is important for us to assess, sensitively and incisively, where the current marketing is

“Many business owners and marketing personnel tell me that a distinctive, coherent and committed brand identity is the best marketing investment they have ever made,” We also extolled its virtues through anecdotes from a selection of key staff and buyers throughout North America. Key messages were presented in a human, interesting and engaging way, creating a clear direction for all communications,” he says. So how, once the brand messages have been formulated, does Levells ensure that they will resonate with prospective and current buyers? “Whether you are a manufacturer, retailer or designer, this comes down to the right research at the very early stages. We find that in our telephone research and discussions with key staff and current buyers, we can drill beneath the surface and uncover what they are really looking for. This sort of research frequently helps us to unlock

working and where it could be more effective. This can then inform the development and implementation of the whole branding and marketing strategy,” he says. It is a methodology which seems to work. “Many business owners and marketing personnel I have worked with tell me that a distinctive, coherent and committed brand identity is the best marketing investment they have ever made,” he concluded. For more information about Levells and how they can help you to brand or rebrand your business contact Mark on 0121 359 5664 or mark@levells.co.uk quoting your BJA membership number to receive your membership discount. www.levells.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 75

| Ethical Feature

What is meant by ‘ethical’ can depend very much on who you talk to. For some it’s a very simple, obvious issue, for others a minefield. Over the following pages we take an over-view of the subject – canvassing views, discovering new ethical brands and reviewing the latest collections of jewellery with a conscience.

The ethical maze Consumer tastes are changing, influenced by new products, technological developments, economic circumstances, and latterly concerns for the environment and the future safety of the world in which we live. This has not happened overnight. Environmental activists have been working for more than thirty years, to raise awareness of the eco systems on which we all rely. Added to this, we’ve grown aware of the price sometimes paid by the people who bring us the necessities that we possibly take for granted. The last decade has seen considerable change in the jewellery sector. Many more miners, raw material processors, designers and jewellers want to act responsibly and ethically, and with due respect for the planet and the people that populate it. There’s also been a flourishing of ethical initiatives

sometimes conflicting, and often overlapping schemes, each with its own priorities, timescales, and ultimate objectives. This convoluted matrix is not easy to navigate – the plethora of initiatives is baffling. Which is why the NAG has co-sponsored a straightforward guide (The Red & Green Books) that we hope will answer some of the more pressing questions, and act as a jumping-off point for those who want to learn more. We have also, via our Ethics Working Group, set about trying to understand the objectives of all the stakeholders in the ethical jewellery debate. Michael Hoare, CEO, NAG

Conflict-free gold? Over the next 18 months we will see many initiatives around ‘conflict-free’ and ‘traceability’.

For us Fairtrade means more than simply knowing the origin of our gold, paying a fair price and premium. It is about developing long-term relationships that enable the mining communities to develop independently. touching on all levels and segments of the sector. However, the supply chain is very complex with a proliferation of companies and individuals playing their part in bringing products to market. The result is an intricate web of sometimes complementary,

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Image courtesy of Cred Jewellery

The question of ethics

review the supply chain from mine to end user; examine the management structure needed; examine the documentation needed to back-up conflict-free claims and put in place independent assurances to give the system credibility. There are however a few caveats that need to be clearly stated in order for jewellers to have a rounded and objective perspective on the impact that this process will have for our industry. Firstly it needs to be noted that WGC only represents the big mining companies and therefore does not speak for the majority of people working in the gold sector; any implementation of this process will only benefit large-scale actors and their subsequent customers. Secondly this process will not address the root causes of the conflicts in the affected areas. Poverty and the unequal distribution

The jeweller will think ‘great’, but are the root causes being addressed? In June this year the Word Gold Council (WGC) published its paper on Conflict Free Gold. To summarise how it wants to address the critical issue on behalf of its members:

of wealth remain an issue with gold. When any minority has access to wealth, thus denying the majority a share of that wealth, conflict will always occur. Thirdly, as WGC do not represent smallscale miners, they are unable to enfranchise the majority communities who have been the majority victims of the many conflicts in East Africa. The artisanal and small-scale miners’ (ASM) vulnerability; politically, economically, socially, has meant they are the exploited and silent majority in any conflict, easily manipulated by all parties

Ethical Feature | concerned and the ones who bear the brunt of any violence that breaks out. If the ASM sector is not included in the bigger dialogue then I fear the unintended consequence of this entire process, will be that it will create a further marginalising of the majority ASM actors and a ripe environment for greater levels of conflict. This in turn means jewellers will have to continue to deal with the accusations of using conflict gold, even with the above processes in place. As jewellers we need to be aware of the background to our supply chains. As an ethical jeweller I want a permanent and secure solution that creates wealth for all. Greg Valerio, jeweller & activist Visit www.gregvalerio.com for a full report.

Ethically bespoke As primarily bespoke jewellers we don’t call ourselves ‘ethical’ jewellers – but we do all we can from an environmental/ethical perspective. We feel keenly that we need to be able to offer a more ethical option to those who are interested, though, both for them and for our own peace of mind. We expressed an interest in the Faitrade Fairmined process from the very beginning. We originally offered (pre certificated) fairly traded gold, but the official standards and certification were introduced only recently. We understood that the gold would hit the streets around Christmas, being ready for an official launch in February. But teething problems in the supply chain meant that it didn’t actually arrive with us until June! There were 20 of us waiting for the first small batch delivered, which had to be shared out. So we didn’t get as much as Working at the bench at Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design

The Real Price of Gold: Dispatches on Dispatches M

any in the trade reacted with anger, some with dismay, and others with a shrug of resignation to the Channel Four documentary, The Real Price of Gold, which gave a platform for the views of businesswoman Deirdre Bounds. According to the blurb she revealed ‘what’s wrong with the industry’ and went on the road to ‘present her unique take on how things could be done very differently’. The clue is in the word ‘unique’. It is undeniable that the programme’s headline issues remain a reality within the industry. However, it was, in my opinion, shot through with inaccuracies, half truths, and snap judgements that undermined the argument. So let’s just put some thoughts on the table anyway, since neither the NAG nor the BJA were called upon to make comment, despite being the largest representatives of the jewellery industry in the UK. First, the programme was misleading in stating that there was not enough recycled gold in circulation when in fact much of the gold used in UK jewellery manufacture is from recycled sources. Second, there are a number of initiatives in development, including the World Gold Council and RJC ‘chain of custody’ standards, which will provide assurances to customers about products’ ethical credentials; but these have fairly long gestation periods. Meanwhile retailers’ demand for such goods grows, as is amply demonstrated by the successful launch in February of Fairtrade Fairmined Gold. The programme presented ‘recycled’ gold as an ethically or morally superior alternative to newly mined gold. However, we can’t ignore the fact that newly-mined gold is critically important to developing countries which benefit from the investment and tax revenues generated. Artisanal miners’ lives depend on the sale of the gold they mine and reducing consumption only pushes these communities deeper into poverty. It is inaccurate to assume that boycotting all newly-mined gold therefore presents a more ‘ethical’ alternative. Lastly, Bounds chose to ignore the fact that jewellers are not alone in using gold – look no further than the electronics industry – and the extraction of most other metal and mineral resources share gold’s ‘guilt’, and it is clear that she went for a target that provides more visibility for her than advances the debate. Michael Hoare, CEO NAG Continued overleaf

we would have hoped for (and neither did anybody else). We have three challenges with the gold: the delayed supply; the form in which we can buy it is very limited and it is more expensive than our pre-certificated fairly

traded gold had been – which meant that we had underquoted on our first 10 jobs. It has also been a challenge working out exactly what the gold is going to cost us (something of a moving target) and therefore what to charge as it is important to us that we don’t mark up the Fairtrade premium (which is the money that goes straight back to the artisans) and the small scale fabrication charges… and so prices are as close as possible to standard gold. We have been members of the Responsible Jewellery Council almost since it started – we’re currently undergoing the self-audit and hope to be audited for accreditation later this year. We feel that it is important not only to support Fairtrade gold but also to influence the larger scale industry as much as we can at the same time. Certificated Fairtrade gemstones don’t exist at the moment but we are working hard with various suppliers who are working

The Voice of the Industry 77

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Ethical Feature | The Real Price of Gold: Dispatches on Dispatches (cont.) was disappointed with it. Channel 4 had an opportunity to present a full picture of the industry but chose to concentrate on shock tactics – humiliation of shop-floor staff – and presented re-cycling as the only feasible ethical option. While I am critically aware of the negative impact our industry is capable of, there are positives and in the UK in particular there is a strong spine ready and willing to tackle the bottle-necks of transparency. The fact that neither the NAG nor the BJA were contacted for example, or that the Fairtrade Foundation was not featured leads me to the conclusion that this was fairly weak journalism. Hats off to Cookson for being frank about their policies, and to the store employees who had made some attempt to research ethics. Obviously more training and information is needed; but to be honest, if I go into Gregg’s for a sausage roll I don’t expect to get a full, accurate description of how and where each piece of meat was farmed and butchered and for the assistant to know its exact implications on my health. If I wanted to know that I’d call head office in the first place. I object to humiliating the store staff on a subject which is deeply complex and which has foxed some of the most powerful and knowledgeable people in our industry. We’re a boutique business and I’ve worked hard to gain detailed and involved information about each player in my supply chain. I know first hand how time consuming and challenging this can be. I piloted an ethical brand to see if it was even possible. It is. But that doesn’t mean its easy to do. I believe consumers do have the right to make informed choices. As businesses we have the right to make informed choices about where we source our goods and materials. That would have made a more robust and enlightening programme; and also shown the more accurate picture that jewellers are a link in the chain, not the sum total of the industry. In the end the ethical and Fairtrade message was dismissed as not scalable and that recycled is a superior choice – that was just wholly inaccurate. Vivien Johnston, Fifi Bijoux

Peruvian Gold

on Fairtrade principles as much as possible. It’s a long journey but things are improving every few months. Harriet Kelsall, Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design

Casting in ethical gold The Birmingham casting house and rapid proto-typing company Weston Beamor has been at the forefront of the Fairtrade gold movement in the UK and is one of just a handful of British firms to have been certified as a Fairtrade Fairmined manufacturer and processor. “Fairtrade gold is both morally and ethically correct as well as being environmentally sound and we as a company are proud to support its aims. However we also believe that there is now real consumer demand for this product and thus a marketing opportunity,” says one of the company’s directors, Yvonne Brookes. Weston Beamor began casting in Fairtrade gold at the beginning of July and currently has

Jon Dibben ethical gold ring

e are aware that it’s easier for us, as a small company working in a bespoke way, to evolve towards ethical responsibility. I’m not comfortable with the idea that an ethical and non ethical divide could be created within the trade. We felt that the programme on ‘Dirty Gold’ gave a misleading impression of our trade, which has historically re-cycled to a higher degree than most others. But visibility in the supply chain is now a reality, whether expected by the media or demanded by customers. This is a good thing for the industry, forcing mining companies, as well as suppliers of all kinds, to be more transparent in all areas of their operations. In the long term this will lead to improved customer confidence. When you buy an investment piece of jewellery, especially in the current economic climate, your justification in doing so is because you love it and want to enjoy it forever. Knowing that the gold has come from a traceable source and that the miners are benefitting from health, education and environmental sustainability programmes adds a sense of wellbeing and social responsibility to that purchase. Jon Dibben Continued overleaf

around a kilo of 18ct white and 18ct yellow gold available for use by its customers. The company’s own in-house assay facility, which is operated by the Birmingham Assay Office, has also recently received Flo-Cert approval and, on 15th July, applied its first ‘Dual Stamp’ hallmark whereby the Fairtrade Fairmined mark is applied to finished pieces alongside the traditional hallmark.

“At present, because there are only five artisan mines producing it, the amount of Fairtrade Gold available is still relatively small. However other mines are now in the process of gaining certification and the Fairtrade Foundation is optimistic that there will be around 1,000kg of Fairtrade Fairmined gold being produced by 2015,” explains Brookes.

The Voice of the Industry 79

| Ethical Feature It is still extremely early days, however interest is growing. “We receive a steady stream of enquiries from designers who would like to get involved and are confident that this will be an important and expanding part of our business in the months and years to come,” says Brookes. One of the first Fairtrade pieces created by Weston Beamor is an iconic ring for the designer and retailer, Jon Dibben. This design in 18ct white gold and rare Nigerian tourmaline will be on display on the Fairtrade Gold stand at IJL next month.

A Peruvian gold miner inspects a ring cast by Weston Beamore

Great Faitrade progress Our quest for socially and environmentally responsible gold began 10 years ago and it is remarkable to think that we have developed from importing grams of gold into a dismissive market, to importing kilograms of gold to industry acclaim. We have only just begun – the idea of Fairtrade diamonds and gems is only being cautiously whispered about. For us Fairtrade means more than simply knowing the origin of our gold, paying a fair price and premium. It is about developing long-term relationships that enable the mining communities to develop independently. It is about doing the right thing and enabling people to lift themselves out of poverty. The launch of the Fairtrade and Fairmined gold standard and raised media profile of the social and environmental issues associated with gold mining have broadened the catchment of consumers interested in ethical jewellery from being the reserve of a few impassioned greenies to a more mainstream caring consumer.

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The Real Price of Gold: Dispatches on Dispatches (cont.) e’re sorry that the programme was so selective in its choice of material and did not speak to those who know about the industry and could give a more balanced view. While we cannot deny that some gold is not mined in good conditions, it is also true that much is mined in conditions where miners are treated well and this point was not clear from the RJC, who are working to create standards that can be more open and transparent. Gradually a standard is going to emerge as a result of the efforts of many in the industry. The figures that were used were sparse and made it difficult for a member of the public to evaluate anything. For example the reporter said that one positive was recycled gold but then added that there was not enough of it to satisfy demand. The fact is that about 25 per cent of all gold processed every year is recycled. A huge amount. We believe that the jewellery industry was actually one of the original recycling industries, going back thousands of years! As an ethical brand we did note that several members of the public had a positive response to recycled gold as they also did on the Dispatches Twitter site. The silver and gold used in Chaos jewellery is recycled and we have found that established members of the independent trade have welcomed it, not as an alternative, but to supply a new market sector. It was also wrong that the independents were not asked about this and that British companies were not interviewed – rather they went to France to ask about recycling. Dennis Allen, Ethically Precious (Chaos)

With these caring consumers in mind we will be launching a Fairtrade and Fairmined wedding collection nationwide in 2012. We do not aim to tell people how to run their business, what to buy or sell but to make this gold an accessible option for those who appreciate the added values. Christian Cheeseman, CRED Jewellery

The flip side? A valued customer of mine recently asked us to forward any policy statements from bullion dealers confirming the provenance of the gold we purchased from them, so I visited the websites of our principal suppliers.

Visibility in the supply chain is now a reality, whether expected by the media or demanded by customers. Some came up with a statement to confirm that their gold was ethically produced – whatever that really means – and others have not, as yet, put a form of words together. We should all, quite rightly, be concerned about exploitation of child workers, dangerous working conditions and poor housing, but where will this paper trail end?

One well known supplier is about to introduce a limited amount of ‘Fairtrade’ gold and doubtless others will try to follow suit, but it will come at a price, and in limited quantities. So only some customers will be able to deal in it and salvage their green credential pride. Much of the gold produced today goes to China and India for use in factories producing jewellery for sale in the U.K. Are their working and living conditions comparable to this country? If manufacturers in this country get tangled up in Fairtrade agreements they will end up with prices that compare even less favourably to those of imported goods, and heaven knows the average jewellery wage in the U.K. is poor enough. And what of the ‘get out’ of ‘recycled gold? What were the working conditions like when the gold was originally produced? There is an allegation that dental amalgam has been found in gold bars in Swiss bank vaults. One wonders where the fillings might have come from… The manufacturing jewellery trade in this country is slowly being strangled by imports. Let us not contribute further to this by tying ourselves in even more knots. Paul Alabaster, Alabaster & Wilson Ltd.

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The Voice of the Industry 81

| Ethical Feature

A meeting of

hearts and minds Back in 2009, we ran a feature that told the unfolding story of goldsmith Paul Spurgeon’s association with Soweto-born and based jeweller Ngobile Nkosi. Uplifting and full of promise it sparked a great deal of interest among readers. he story was no flash-in-the-pan, oneseason-wonder. Today the bonds between Spurgeon and his young protegé – if we can call him that – are stronger than ever and the burgeoning business that Spurgeon helped Nkosi to develop is going from strength to strength. So strong in fact that there is now a jewellery brand serving as tangible proof that one group of Soweto crafts people are ready to sell to Europe. It’s called Cornerstone. The coming together of ‘creative hearts and minds’, as Spurgeon describes it, has resulted in a collection – so far of five sub-lines. Conceived to appeal to a global

82 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

market, Cornerstone has its own distinct style that has African as well as European sensibilities. Created from, where possible, locally-sourced silver and a variety of beads such as onyx and garnet, the jewellery follows the Cornerstone philosophy of ‘by the people, for the people’ while caring for the environment. It’s an ethos that Spurgeon is passionate about. “The organisation is about giving its members a hand-up not a hand-out,” he insists. But the project has not been without its downs as well as ups. Needless to say, as with many start-up businesses, finances are an issue. The highs of providing gainful employment (and thereby an income and dignity) is counter-balanced by such lows as lack of viable transport. Step-by-step, obstacles have been overcome. The latest high – a really big one – came just last month when pipes for running water were finally delivered to the village of Makapanstad. It is here that, after almost a year of pleading, hassling and wrangling with the local chief, a large area of land was granted to Cornerstone for the development of bigger and better premises. However,

without running water, the plan was never going to amount to much. Spurgeon even managed – by pulling a few personal strings – to arrange a meeting with Jacob Zuma’s office to try and redress the situation. Apart from Nkosi, Spurgeon’s ally on the ground is 83-year old Martha who runs Heartfelt, a business that employs 20 local women to make felt jewellery and accessories in Makapanstad. In her lifetime Martha has never seen running water in their side of the village. “We want to turn the village into a real destination for production and once we have water other industries will want to be there,” says Spurgeon. “The aim is to try and develop a venue of creativity of whatever level. We want to tourists to come along and see what’s going on.”

Because he has no money for fuel for the two-hour drive from Soweto to Makapanstad, Nkosi is continuing to work from his existing workshops. For the time being the newlyacquired land will be fenced off and architect drawings made for the new building. The immediate plan is to bring men from Makapanstad to Soweto to train them on the job at Cornerstone – a “sensibly achievable development,” says Spurgeon. “There are so many negative stories about our industry in the media, the timing of this project is abolutely perfect – a great story for the jewellery trade,” says Spurgeon who is now looking ahead to bring Cornerstone, as well as Nkosi himself, to the UK market for early 2012.

The Executive Development Forum. Feel the beneﬁts! What’s it all about? Simple!

Why not you?

You have the jewellery knowledge so we concentrate on business development and improvement. Always bearing in mind the special nature of the sector and that each business is unique.

The EDF members are keen to improve their businesses and they do!

We share, we learn, we improve and we realise real business improvement.

Just like you they have challenges, skills, management issues and limited time to cover the multitude of tasks in running a jewellers. But most of all they are determined to win! Why don’t you join them and share in their success?

WIIFM! That inevitable question – What’s in it for me? Well for a start you are losing the isolation many independents feel; you are part of a supportive community. You can benchmark your performance against the best. You are exposed to specialists and services speciﬁc to your type of business. You gain a massive amount of information and a range of diverse opinions which stimulate business improvement.

EDF

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So what… Look, we could go on for hours extolling the virtues of the EDF and still not answer that one question that you want to ask. So we won’t. But that doesn’t answer your burning question. So pick up the phone and talk to Amanda on 020 7613 4445 who will give you all the information you need.

Ethical Feature |

Ethical elegance out of Peru IJL is the chosen platform for the launch of Chavin, a new design-led ethical jewellery brand, inspired by ancient Peru. he Chavin (pronounced sha-veen) were an ancient Peruvian civilisation – a pacifist people who developed highly skilled techniques in metallurgy, producing refined precious metal work. It is from them that this new brand takes its inpsiration. The first collection – named, appropriately enough, ‘Antiquity’ – has been designed by award-winning British jewellery talent Ana De Costa and the man behind Chavin is Simon Ogilvie-Harris. Once ‘something in the city’ it had always been his dream to have his own fully ethical business. “When my brother came back from Peru with some of the most beautiful sterling silver jewellery, it inspired me to take the plunge,” he explains. “Initially I started working with artisanal businesses in Peru. This is when I realised to really make a difference we need to work with commercial supply chains as artisanal businesses don’t have the ability to increase capacity on a commercial level,” he adds.

“Peru is a country that produces 16 per cent of the world’s silver yet jewellery exports are only $10m per quarter which means the people aren’t benefiting from their natural resources.” His passionately-held belief is that it is possible to create jewellery that is not only “luxurious, feminine and easy-towear” but that is ethically-produced. Totally ethically produced. This means, as you would expect, that each part of the process and every material used has been carefully researched and selected based on its ethical credentials – while not compromising on aesthetics, finish or quality. But in addition to this aspect, ethical credibility is, says Ogilvie-Harris, at the heart of the brand.

introduced Ogilvie-Harris to Ana De Costa, Chavin launches with a strong story – both in terms of its ethos and the creative element itself. On that score, De Costa, renowned for her spiritually-inspired, colourful fine jewellery, has worked here with rose and yellow gold sterling silver vermeil, diamonds and coloured stones to introduce a collection that marries the mythology, colours and craftsmanship of Peruvian culture, with a clean and modern design interpretation. The result – bold, sometimes quirky jewellery with a contemporary-bohemian vibe. Prices range from £65 to £700 retail. For more details call: 07709 437143 or email: simon@chavinjewellery.com

We want to take part in improving life for people in whose nature and culture we gather inspiration and raw materials for the jewellery. “Every time a piece of Chavin Jewellery is sold it will enhance the quality of life for the people of Peru.” This is because Chavin is working in partnership with SOS Children’s Charity. “We’re reinvesting into Peruvian families and communities. But rather than just donate, we ‘Do-nate’ – we act. We don’t just give money as an afterthought, but involve ourselves actively and constantly in durable development and education,” he continues. “We want to take part in improving life for people in whose nature and culture we gather inspiration and raw materials for the jewellery. Customers will automatically become partners in ‘Do-nating’ every time they buy a piece of Chavin Jewellery.” So, with the marketing and jewelleryindustry knowledge and strategic guidance of brand consultant Jonathan Crocker, who

The Voice of the Industry 85

| Ethical Feature

Ethical collections For those looking to increase their offering of jewellery with a conscience, the choice today is wider than ever. Here’s a selection of some of the collections that we've seen recently.

Caratess

Taking her inspiration from ‘all manner of things, from architecture to nature’, Vivien Johnson’s most recent collection has been influenced by bright vivid colour and celebrates the elephant with references to the details of the festivals which centre around them in India. Peek-a-boo and suspended stones are used to bring bright highlights and movement. Five per cent of profits from the elephant ring and pendant will go to the Asian Elephant Foundation. www.fifibijoux.com

Oria

Fifi Bijoux

Since its conception Oria has only ever used ethically-sourced gold, silver and gems and is now one of the jewellers chosen to used the Fairtrade Fairmined mark. At IJL this year Oria will be launching its expanded gold collection, including ‘wild flora’ pieces inspired by the Norwegian woods. There will also be a laser-cut silver line of ‘love birds’ and ‘jumping hare’ jewellery. www.oriajewellery.com

Oak Fine Jewellery

Oak's latest collection is called Love Letters and is created in 18ct Fairtrade and Fairmined gold with ethically sourced gemstones. Inspiration is taken from ‘the intimate romance of the Victorians as well as the passions of today’. Lemon diamond, opaque jasper, violet spinel, emerald and ruby all feature across the range of rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces. New items have been added to the Richmond Park collection: ‘Treasured Tree’ shown here is in 18ct white Fairtrade Fairmined gold with yellow gold, but is also available in rhodium-plated recycled silver. www.oakfinejewellery.com

86 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

“As our inspiration comes from the natural world ethical matters to us,” says owner and designer Chris Lawrence. The alluvial gold used for the collection comes from Oro Verde in Colombia and now Caratess has the Fairtrade Fairmined seal of approval. This year's distinctive animal collection has been inspired by nature’s diversity – from the plains of Africa to the coats of the British Isles, including tribal masks, totem poles, fossils and bones. www.caratess.co.uk

Ethical Feature |

Kerstin Laibach

Linnie McClarty

“I think it’s my responsibility as a designermaker to work in the most ethical and responsible way I can”, says McClarty. “I use 100 per cent recycled silver, fairly traded gemstones with a clear and transparent chain of custody and now, also, Fairtrade, Fairmined gold. I would be a hypocrite if I said that everything I do as a jeweller is as green or as sound as it could be, but I’m making changes wherever and whenever I can.” From her ‘Discreetly Bizarre’ collection is this ring with a rough cut ruby. www.linniemcclarty.com

Ute Decker

Another of the first 20 jewellers to be able to use Faitrade Fairmined gold, Ute Decker is renowned for her clean, minimalist, sculptural pieces, including this ‘Pure’ double ring. It is made from alluvial gold sourced from the Colombian Oro Verde. Just two years after setting up her studio, Decker, who also works with recycled silver, has been selected to exhibit at the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Fair this October. www.utedecker.com

Chaos

From Brandts comes this ‘Hippy Chic’ howlite beaded bracelet with hamsa hand, which is made using Thai and Burmese Karen hill tribe nugget beads which are gold-plated silver. “By using Karen hill tribe silver I believe I am helping a community support itself using traditional crafts and production methods,” says London-based designer Ayshe. www.brandtsjewellery.co.uk

Originally working in Germany and Switzerland, Laibach now creates her ethical collections from a workshop in Somerset. Using recycled precious metals which she combines with ‘simple surface pebbles’ that she gathers locally and ‘without detriment to the environment’. If a customer wants diamonds, she offers lab-created ones. The jewellery is created without the use of hazardous chemicals and with tools, materials and even polishing pastes containing no animal derivatives. To ‘back-step’ any carbon footprint that might be involved Laiback gives 10 per cent of sales to selected wildlife and conservation projects. www.kerstinlaibach.com

Brandts

Made from recycled silver and gold, Chaos is launching new additions to the successful Baroque collection. Since its launch the brand is now in 24 stores – paving a way forward for commercial-yet-ethical jewellery in the High Street. New styles are also being launched with several pieces in the Twist collection, shown here. A touch of solid 18 ct gold also features in the line and is in a specially created round box with recyclable papers. “Even where the design is the principle reason for purchase, customers are delighted to know more about its ethical origins, which confirm the sale,” says creative director Yasmin Moss. www.chaosjewellery.com

The Voice of the Industry 87

| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

w i t h

F e l l o w s

Antique JEWELLERY What the Vikings did for us Jo Young traces the history of the Viking culture in Britain through the many archeological hoards that have been discovered on our shores. he popular image of a Viking in the public’s imagination is, frankly, a peculiarly comic one: though we are aware of Viking society as being brutal and violent in nature, we nonetheless picture them as cartoonish figures. Freakishly tall, with a shock of blonde or red hair, a sneering snaggletoothed expression and sporting (of course) a double-horned helmet, these are not a people that we in Britain consider to have been particularly cultured or sophisticated – not compared to the toga-wearing Romans, with their red wine, spas and underfloor heating.

An ornately decorated bowl from the Vale of York Hoard. Image courtesy of Yorkshire Museum.

88 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

And yet, culturally, the Viking influence on British society has been widespread and hugely significant. From the arrival of the first Scandanavian seafarers in the 800s through the following two centuries, vast swathes of Britain (but most particularly in the north, Scotland and the outlying islands) were settled, with the existing population comprehensively conquered through violent warfare and enforced submission. Though the names of these aggressors are thrilling in their schoolboy naughtiness – think Ragnar Hairy-Breeks and Ívarr the Boneless – their tactics were anything but funny to the

societies they ravaged; in some parts of Britain where the incomers were especially dominant, the existing indigenous communities and cultures were wiped out altogether. Violent murdering raiders they may have been, but the Vikings were responsible for much more than this. They adopted Christianity, developed (as we shall see) a comprehensive system of coinage, threw elaborate feasts and parties, observed surprisingly complex familial and tribal rules and made some important scholastic contributions. One of the principle ways in which we know about Viking culture is through a series of hoards, made up of jewellery and coins, metal objects and valuables, some of which were deliberately buried for later retrieval and some of which were perhaps left as religious offerings. There have been quite a number of these hoards found at sites around the UK, each varying in size and significance.

Penrith Hoard One of the earliest and most important of these to have been discovered is the Penrith Hoard, a dispersed collection of silver dating from the 10th Century. Items from this hoard have been uncovered over a hugely lengthy period, with the first, largely complete thistle brooch having been found in 1785 and the largest bulk of findings having been made in 1989 (the items are classified as belonging to one ‘hoard’ not according to the manner of their recovery but due to their having likely been, for the most part, buried at the same time). All the pieces (which are now housed in the British Museum) were recovered from Newbiggin Moor near Penrith, Cumbria, in a place called Flusco Pike. The pieces were quite widely dispersed and quite a number of the latter finds have been heavily damaged by more than a century of ploughing. The first penannular brooch found is one of the most interesting in the Penrith Hoard. The field in which it was found, by a little local boy, was – even in the late 1700s – known as Silver Field, which clearly suggests that other Viking silver had already been uncovered there. A second thistle brooch was found in 1830, after which nothing further was discovered until the late 1980s. In 1989, a group of five silver brooches was found with some brooch fragments,

Antique Jewellery | alongside a second group of coins, ingots and jewellery. Penannular brooches were first worn by the Romans in Britain, who took the original base metal functional design and customised it, by decorating their brooches, adding gemstones and making them in precious metals. When the Vikings settled in Britain, they took the Romans’ ‘pimped up’ brooch design and scaled it back again according to their own taste and style, making their versions in plain silver, as can be seen here.

Cuerdale Hoard The Cuerdale Hoard, which is also on display in the British Museum, is by far the largest Viking Hoard to have been found in the UK. Comprised of more than 8,600 items, the Hoard includes jewellery of English and Carolingian origin, hacksilver and ingots and a huge number of silver coins. The collection was discovered in the Spring of 1840 on the bank of the River Ribble near Preston, Lancashire. It is, to date, the largest Viking silver hoard found outside Russia, and is – somewhat remarkably – larger even than any hoard found in Scandanavia.

Two coins from the Cuerdale Hoard

The hoard contains a very large number of coins, the largest portion of which represent the Viking Kingdoms of the east of England. Coins from Alfred’s kingdom of Wessex are also there, alongside (intriguingly) foreign coins from as far afield as Italy, Aquitaine, and the Byzantine and Islamic nations. It was found – as these things quite often are – by a group of workmen. While repairing the embankment of the river, the men found a lead box containing the silver carefully bagged up inside. The box was passed to the landowner, with the workmen offered a coin each to keep. The hoard was declared treasure trove and, according to the law, was handed over to the monarch (at that time,

Items from the Cuerdale Hoard

Queen Victoria). From there it was given to the British Museum, with the exception of a small number of items that went to Oxford’s Ashmolean. As for who buried the hoard? It is thought that the hoard was concealed sometime between 903 and 910AD, at which time the Ribble Valley was a major route for Vikings from the Irish Sea to the city of York. Silver brooches from the Penrith Hoard

It is the geographical breadth and scope of these finds that helps to make them so fascinating to archeology and history enthusiasts… The fact that the hoard contains newlyminted coins from both York and Ireland has led to one proposal: that the hoard was a war chest, the property of Irish Norse exiles intent on reoccupying Dublin, from where they had been expelled in 902. Another suggestion is that the hoard may have been intended as a gift to English churches in Viking-occupied areas. The truth is that, from this kind of historical distance, nobody really knows. In some ways, the mystery is part of what makes collections like the Cuerdale Hoard endlessly fascinating, to archeologists, jewellery enthusiasts and local historians alike. After all, it is through mystery and the creation

The Voice of the Industry 89

| Antique Jewellery

of folklore that the best history is made: intriguingly, in the case of the Cuerdale Hoard, the existence of buried treasure was apparently known long before the hoard was actually discovered. It was said that those who stood on the south bank of the River Ribble at the right spot and looked upriver would be within sight of the biggest treasure trove in all of England…

Vale of York One of the more recent finds is the Vale of York Hoard, which is also known as the Harrogate Hoard. Made up of 617 silver coins it was found in 2007 near Harrogate in North Yorkshire. It marked the largest Viking discovery since the Cuerdale Hoard more than a century earlier. In January that year, in a story that is the stuff of dreams for metal detecting enthusiasts, father and son David and Andrew Whelan were indulging their metal detecting hobby in an empty field awaiting ploughing for Spring. The pair uncovered a lead chest containing a silver bowl that had been buried 30cm under the soil. Realising almost immediately the significance of what they had uncovered, the Whelans reported their find, and by July that year the museum’s excavators were able to announce the find, declaring it to be “the most important find of its type in Britain for over 150 years”. What the men had found was a silver gilt bowl lined with gold, that was made in France or Germany around 900. The bowl itself is decorated with hunting scenes involving lions, horses and a stag, and it contained a large collection of coins and other valuables. It is thought that the bowl was made for a French monastery, to be used in the communion, but was taken by Vikings in a raid. There are several notable pieces in the Vale of York Hoard, one of which is a rare arm ring made from gold, most likely to have been made in Ireland; the coins in this hoard are also clearly

90 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

gathered from several places, as among them are pieces that bear Christian, Islamic and pre-Christian Norse symbols. Among the objects, too, are pieces from regions including Russia, Ireland, North Africa and even Uzbekistan. Once again, it is the geographical breadth and scope of these finds that helps to make them so fascinating to archeology and history enthusiasts.

This hoard had clearly been carefully buried, protected as it was by a lead sheeting. Again, there are a number of different theories around this hoard and how it came to be where it was found: one plausible idea is that it had belonged to a Viking leader who buried it for safe keeping after the conquest of the Viking kingdom in Northumbria in 927.

Whittaker’s World Jewellery and the anthropological connection in 2011 When archaeologists started to unearth the contents of the tomb of Tutankhamun at the beginning of the 20th Century they discovered amazing items of jewellery and other artefacts which allowed them to conjure up an image of the life of the young king in the 2nd Century BC. I suppose in the back of our minds at the start of the 21st Century is the thought that with the way things are currently recorded on computers, videos and CCTVs, future archaeologists will never make the same level of discoveries again. But imagine a postnuclear world (I know this isn’t a realistic or cheerful thought, but indulge me for a second), and all that is left after a nuclear holocaust is a catalogue for a pawnbrokers jewellery auction and all that can be distinguished centuries later is the description of one lot of jewellery… (anthropological deductions in brackets) • 18ct gold illusion set three stone diamond ring (couldn’t afford a bigger ring – query social standing) • 22ct gold wedding band – two (so ‘they’ got married – clearly members of a minority sect!!) • 9ct gold ‘Mum’ ring – (so ‘they’ had children) • 9ct gold ‘Dad’ ring (as above but did he know his ring was being ‘put into pawn’?) • 9ct gold CZ ‘You Bitch’ pendant & chain (was this meant as a term of endearment or the first step towards a divorce?) Somebody once asked me what was so fascinating about pawnbrokers auctions – just read the description above and wonder what other items would tell you so much about this family? Stephen Whittaker is Managing Director at Fellows Auctioneers and Valuers, specialists in jewellery, watches and silver, based in Birmingham’s world famous Jewellery Quarter. He can be contacted on 0121 212 2131 or stephen@fellows.co.uk. Image courtesy of i-diamonds.co.uk

The Vale of York Hoard

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| Opinion: John Henn

The future is at our fingertips John Henn returns from the EDF Oxford Congress with his head full of new directions and good advice. n June, back in the concrete shoe box, we attended the third EDF Oxford Congress. I’ve spoken before about the construction of the Saïd Business School on Oxford’s outskirts, but am still no wiser as to what the architects were smoking when it was conceived. The agenda was all about the very topical subjects of Facebook, Twitter, and the law. The Congress was well supported by EDFers, but is open to all of the membership – see if you can make it next year for whatever Mike McGraw has in store. For now I will give you a brief outline of what we were helped to understand and hopefully some direction in the increasingly important world of customer reviews that I keep going on about (78 per cent of people trust recommendations while 14 per cent trust advertising). Our first presentation was from a firm of employment solicitors. Aaron & Partners have recently resolved some very difficult situations for an EDF member and having just made someone redundant myself, I can say first hand that if you put the proper documents in place to begin with, everyone – employer and employee alike – is better protected. We were taken on a tour of their workload, pre, during and terminating employment. Some of the bigger companies will have HR departments to handle all this, but I expect the rest of us will have to go it alone. There is something about paying between £75 to £500 per hour, which stops us getting the right advice in the first place.

92 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

There is some work in progress at the NAG tracking down an employment law compliance service to at least keep us on the right track. But nothing comes cheap. For any who do get into trouble don’t forget the NAG legal help line is just a call away. Also aired was the reason none of us is whisked off by suppliers to exotic locations to enjoy their hospitality any more – The Bribery Act of 2010. Very generally this is defined as someone giving someone else an advantage to encourage that person to buy/ influence the giver’s products/services. It’s all at www.justice.gov.uk if you want to know more.

…if you suggest a mountain of trends are coming there is a chance some will arrive Next up was a trend specialist. While there is some good stuff here, it is just a question of establishing which trend is going to catch on. I find this the most difficult to quantify. If you fired a thousand golf balls into a fish pool there is a reasonable chance that, providing there are some fish in the pool, some will be hit! So it is, that if you suggest a mountain of trends are coming there is a chance some will arrive, though if we knew which ones were going to hit we could save firing all

those other balls. One suggested trend was that we will see an oriental influence arrive in our lives as we do more business with the Far East. Isn’t this more likely because the Far East is the only booming market at present, and as such, all western luxury goods manufacturers are appealing to them. Europe is just being offered the same stuff. At least the trend for ‘Urban Corrugated Iron Jewellery’ that was forecast a year ago at IJL didn’t emerge. It would seem that it’s all about the story and how you tell it. Finally we heard from techy brother Howard and networking sister Rebecca, a double act who unwrapped Facebook and Twitter, explaining how to increase awareness and make money for your company. They started by showing us a film that you can find on the web – www.youtube.com/watch? v=lFZ0z5Fm-Ng This is full of some astonishing statistics that are difficult to ignore. We heard the story of the lady who put the cat in the wheelie bin. Within three hours of it being uploaded to YouTube, it was on national news, even being mentioned at Prime Minister’s Question Time. Within 12 hours it was on the other side of the world. Good news rarely travels so fast but what it shows you is how negative press needs to be addressed urgently as the spread of bad publicity can be rapid. Howard relayed a story of the disappointment he had experienced over the failure of some Bose headphones he had purchased. He tweeted the experience and the very next tweet he received was from Bose Customer Service, where an individual asked him to call in on the attached direct line and they would resolve the issue. He made the call and the problem was resolved. This is only one example but it shows you how seriously brands are taking the potential effect of bad press. He, of course, tweeted his satisfaction and we will all buy Bose products if we have to choose in the future! Finally we are beginning to see the arrival of the ‘Augmented Reality Marker’. It is a black and white hieroglyphic which refers to a product. When positioned and viewed via a web cam/cell phone camera it positions the referred-to product. For example, it might be a sofa in your sitting room, enabling you to see the furniture in situ before you buy it! It is now being trialled for jewellery. I’m sure this has an application in our world – I’m just not sure what it is!

| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

African Gold by Timothy F Garrard (£29.99, Prestel) This beautifully-presented volume (highly detailed photography on matte black pages) catalogues an impressive collection of gold jewellery and artefacts held by the Gold of Africa Museum in Cape Town. In fact the pieces – all from various regions in West Africa – were originally from the

Barbier-Meuller collection that began in 1922 thanks to Swiss art collector Joseph Meuller who spent 50 years assembling a collection of African art. The book celebrates the craftsmanship of the Gold Coast’s goldsmiths through pieces from the 19th and 20th centuries; exploring the influences, significance and symbolism of the various rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces and items of royal regalia. Now deceased, Garrard, who was a historian, archeologist and lawyer, gives the historical and cultural context through which to view the pieces. The nuggets of information

Sales & Exhibitions

September 4th-7th: International Jewellery London, Earl’s Court, London The UK’s most established jewellery-focussed event, showing British and international jewellery designers, wholesalers and manufacturers. Includes special initiatives such as KickStart and Bright Young Gems, as well as a catwalk show and seminars. See our IJL Preview on P44. www.jewellerylondon.com

August 5th-30th: Dazzle, Assembly Theatre, George Square, Edinburgh A gathering of new and established jewellery designers working with a variety of materials including precious metals and gemstones. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com September 22nd-28th: Origin – the contemporary craft fair, Old Spitalfields Market, London E1 Part of the London Design Festival, the fair showcases a diverse range of original craft, including work from around 50 jewellery designers, such as Sarah Pulvertaft, working in a variety of precious and non-precious materials. www.originuk.org

Spinning Rings by Zehava Hashai-Spellman at Goldsmiths’ Fair

26th-9th October: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Goldsmiths’ Hall An opportunity for the public to buy direct from the best jewellery and silversmithing talent in the UK. Entrance by catalogue purchasable on the door – £7 for one week. Closed 3rd October. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

Sequin ring by Sarah Pulvertaft at Origin

94 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

include the fact that in some African countries, like Ghana, recycling gold was not just commonplace but at some stages in history, compulsory. Also, an ancient and widespread belief was that gold contained an evil and dangerous spirit with the power to kill the finder – so for a long time the fear of gold may have deterred the local population from exploiting it. Fascinating stuff.

August 25th-28th: Copenhagan Jewellery Fair, Bella Center, Copenhagen, Denmark Denmark’s only trade event dedicated to fashion jewellery. www.cphjf.dk

11th-13th: Top Drawer Around 150 fashion and accessory brands show at this home, fashion and gift fair, including jewellery names such as Martick and Jackie Brazil. www.topdrawer.co.uk October 18th-30th: The Gemworld Munich, New Munich Trade Trade Fair Centre The special exhibit at the international gemstone and jewellery show this year will be ‘European Classics’ which will include the legendary blue diamond called Wittlesbach Graff (above). www.gemworldmunich.com

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The

Last Word This month’s Last Word subject is Vivien Johnston, founder and owner of ethical jewellery business Fifi Bijoux Personal Profile After leaving Glasgow School of Art with a BA Honours degree in jewellery and silversmithing, Vivien launched the Fifi Bijoux label in 2006. The company works with small-scale mining co-operatives which do not use child or forced labour and do not use cyanide or mercury contaminants. The company has pioneered a model for social and environmental responsibility throughout the jewellery industry and this year Vivien has been tasked with steering the Ethics Working committee initiative for the NAG and BJA. How would you describe your personal style? Feminine. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? I travel a fair bit and always have with work. A holiday to me is not so much about destinations its about spending time with people I love, stuffing my face with nice food and just having time off. I like somewhere with a river or beach. Scotland is beautiful but the rain gets tiresome so if I can get a week of warm dry weather, I’m pretty happy anywhere to be honest, as long as the company is good.

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? Creative, realist, idealist – say my friends. Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? Behaved far more outrageously at Art School.

98 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2011

I grew up in a rural back water where drinking cider was as wild as it got. I was quite shy and took a little while to adjust to the general permissive attitudes. If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? Be pro-active not reactive. I think many of the decision makers in the jewellery industry are still overly cautious and slightly paranoid, particularly around ethics in diamonds. There seems to be a mentality that prevails that if we don’t talk about issues then somehow no one will ever find out – which completely fails to recognise that the internet has made information available instantly to a huge audience. Hiding isn’t an option – it’s far more positive to acknowledge problems and talk about them to find solutions which sounds obvious but amazingly still takes time to change rooted behaviours. What book are you currently reading? Water For Elephants by Sarah Gruen To what do you attribute your success? ‘Lust for life’? Joie de Vivre…? I had major heart surgery aged two. I’ve always felt very lucky that I was born in Scotland where heart surgeons were pioneering the surgery

on infants which had recently only been available to adults (now a very routine procedure). It was 50/50 if it worked or not and I wouldn’t be here if it weren’t for the surgeons’ skill, courage and determination. It gives me enormous belief in humanity and trust that if people can do something positive, they will. I quite literally owe my life to a stranger and I think it would be pretty disappointing if I wasted that. Tell us something not many people know about you… Er… about my Bond Girl Activity programme, my Beyoncé dance activities or my being forcibly removed by security from a plane ? (Not all mutually exclusive). Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country)? Paris – I like St Germain for wandering. But the only things I tend to shop for are lingerie, chocolates and cosmetics. If not the jewellery business, what might your career have been? Lawyer. I’m thinking about doing a Masters degree in Mineral Policy/ Mining Law. Do you Tweet? Yes Quick fire (no deliberating) • Red or white wine? Red winter; white summer • Diamonds or coloured stones? Diamonds • White or yellow metal? Yellow • TV or radio? Radio • Shoes or handbags? Shoes • Delegator or control freak? Control freak • Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian? Indian • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Rolling Stones

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