The Jeweller Magazine June 2010 Issue

the

Jeweller June 2010

£6.50

The Watch Issue I I

Luxury Timepieces Latest Trends in Fashion Watches

Spotlight on Security I

NAG Security Survey Results and more...

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

The Voice of The Industry

For further information telephone: 01403 790902 w w w. e d o x . c h

Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

J U N E

Jeweller Picks

1 0

Communiqué

4

Editor’s Letter

7

Industry News

8

22

Highlighting new timepieces from the premium sector of the market

Spotlight on Security

28

NAG News

14

Member of the Month

16

BJA News

19

Industry Updates

26, 42, 56

An overview of the major security issues facing jewellery businesses… and some solutions

Opinion: John Henn

58

Ethical Jeweller

60

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Industry Advice (Part 1)

31

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News & Services

34

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Industry Advice (Part 2)

36

Notebook

62

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Anti-Burglary Advice

39

Antique Jeweller

64

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Personal Protection

40 IRV Review

68

Education & Training

71

Appointments

75

Display Cabinet

76

The Last Word

78

Call for Extra Time

44

Fashion and lifestyle watch brands are key sales drivers reports Belinda Morris

Right to Reply

54

responds to criticisms revealed in last month’s

The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members.

For further information about The Jeweller please visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

Bead and Charm survey

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Peter Andersen, UK managing director of Pandora,

The National Association

Cover Image Sir Bob Geldof – Musician, Activist, Businessman, Brand ambassador for Maurice Lacroix To be a stockist contact: Desco Luxury (UK) Ltd Tel: 020 8749 2405 www.mauricelacroix.com

of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445

CUBE Publishing Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7833 5500 ian@cube-uk.com

www.jewellers-online.org

Art Director: Ben Page

Editor: Belinda Morris

ben@cube-uk.com

Tel: 01692 538007

Publisher: Neil Oakford

bmorris@colony.co.uk

neil@cube-uk.com

BJA Marketing & PR Manager Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

John Henn, Greg Valerio,

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the N.A.G. disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.

The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

The NAG’s CEO discusses the very pressing issue of security, whether sacks of diamonds make for good garden design and the need for innovative thinking.

Doesn’t Time Fly t’s nearly a year since the NAG and T H March teamed up to launch the SaferGems initiative, and to mark that momentous occasion this edition of The Jeweller features reports on its successes so far – plus we have conducted a brief survey to help us better understand how jewellers feel about their own security. It’s hardly surprising that, with the media spotlight focussed on the high profile West End robberies of recent months, with incidents of violence against shops seeming to occur with almost monotonous regularity and with the BRC calculating a 10 per cent increase in losses, jewellers are more fearful than they were twelve months ago. Whether this fear is down to more actual crime or just greater awareness is difficult to tell. But what is clear is that now the election campaign is out of the way, the government will be turning its attention to policing once again.

However, this time around the emphasis will be on how to cut the costs associated with it.

The sociological reasons for the upsurge in crime are too complex to analyse here, and we could have a long philosophical debate about how much consumerism fuels greed; how much temptation retailers

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4 The Jeweller June 2010

put in the way of offenders and how much protection taxpayers can reasonably fund.

But there’s no getting away from the uncomfortable fact that, short of a paradigm shift in society, we’re left with demanding the police do more with less. In the circumstances, I believe the onus must turn on self help rather than pleading a ‘special case’ for manpower and resources. But what form should that self help take?

We have all read press reports of police stations being set up in shopping malls and,

The training centre, directly above the store, trains up to 30 uniformed Metropolitan Police recruits at a time. It is said to give the recruits the opportunity to complete their training in a unique environment at the heart of the community and far removed from the classroom – and no doubt there are knock-on benefits for the locality. All well and good you say.

Practical assistance for a cash strapped force! But wait. When I saw a photo of Justin King, Sainsbury's chief executive, reviewing the ‘troops’ at their passing out parade, the cynic in me couldn’t help wondering if the cops nip round quite so sharpish to Waitrose when there’s an incident in their biscuit aisle?

I’m sure all are beyond reproach, but if doubts are raised in my mind, it won’t be long before others start to ask questions about preferential treatment, two-tier policing, and the rest. We’re already a deeply divided society and I fear there are those who could easily misconstrue, or deliberately misrepresent these actions. Am I being too pessimistic?

We’re already a deeply divided society and I fear there are those who could easily misconstrue, or deliberately misrepresent these actions. Am I being too pessimistic? as long ago as 2007, some big retailers began hosting police offices in stores as bases for community officers. In these changing times it’s only sensible for police stations to be easily accessible to the mass of the population – and all canny shopkeepers have long known the benefit of making their premises a ‘tea stop’ for beat officers – so these measures look practical and sensible. But in December 2009 Sainsbury’s took co-operation to a new level by hosting a police training centre at their Barkingside store in East London.

Cash-starved police forces will need all the help they can get in the months to come, and it was partly this realisation that prompted T H March and the NAG to set up SaferGems. But it is doubts like those I have expressed that I think fully justify our joint decision to give the boys in blue a leg up through intelligence sharing – rather than re-defining the expression ‘cop-shop’.

Nearly a year in, and although we have only scratched the surface, the results are there for all to see.

Comment | Mulch Ado about Nothing m I alone in finding the news that the Chelsea Flower Show is featuring a £20 million ‘Ace of Diamonds’ garden a turn off?

I know I should welcome anything that puts jewellery and diamonds in the public eye, but the thought of a garden composed almost entirely of multi-coloured diamonds strikes me as crass. It’s nothing to do with excess in a period of austerity that irritates, although the assumption that we should find sack loads of diamonds naturally fascinating eludes me; nor is it the apparent stupidity of raising the security stakes exponentially; it’s purely a matter of taste.

My taste admittedly, but surely the attraction of diamonds is their singularity. Hasn’t the trade spent generations fostering appreciation of the unique characteristics of individual stones? In design terms, isn’t less more? And isn’t Chelsea about growing things? I sincerely hope that I have been misled by the ‘artist’s impression’ that appeared in the London Evening Standard recently. Because if not this particular design will be unique only for its drabness! Shovelling diamonds around won’t compensate for lack of creativity. In fact the designer could have saved time and money and achieved exactly the same effect with a few sacks of granulated bottles.

They make very attractive mulch too!

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Nothing Succeeds Like Succession resh evidence has emerged that those at the retail helm aren’t all they’re cracked up to be when it comes to innovation. Hardly a surprise I suppose, because over recent months everyone has focussed on operational issues... like screwing down costs. And taking a sneaky peak into the future has been downright scary! But now talent management agency Korn Ferry International has conducted research into leadership talent issues and concluded that as a breed, ‘new thinking’ is not top of the retailers’ tree. More alarmingly, if regaining economic stability means a return to retail confidence, they fear there could be a net outflow of talented individuals already within the industry who have felt constrained by doubt in recent months.

Respondents to the study, asked how they intend to fill the skills gaps within their organisations, expressed a preference for an internal talent pipeline, with 55 per cent intending to develop executives from within. Backing this were the 48 per cent who placed more significance on succession planning. Personally, I don’t think jewellers are lacking when it comes to innovation, they just need coaching in implementation of ideas. As for talent management and succession planning, I think the pool of talent within the industry is vast but sometimes untapped, and succession often left to chance. The NAG answer to both concerns are our executive development programmes which have five years of results to back them up, and now also focus on nurturing the new generation of business owners and managers. If you want to know how, join me at the Oxford Congress at the end of the month – you’ll be glad you did.

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The Voice of the Industry 5

“

Vabene is to watches what Jimmy Choo is to shoes...�

Ceramica

Sole

Adessino

Turbulence

Stardust

Be sure you are the stockist in your area!

Contact Xionet Ltd on tel: 01425 279312 or email: gvw4@btconnect.com Pirate

Visit the website at: www.vabene.it

Mondo

Comment |

Editor’s

Letter

This month: “The recession has made retailers look inwardly to what brands they are carrying, to rationalise what they are doing… but they are also having to find something new.”

’m not going to talk politics – there’s enough of that being done by others and I’m already

I

in danger of being bored by the “Nick and Dave – can they, can’t they” speculation;

the back-bench mutterings and the media sniping. Oh, just get on with it and stop bitching.

But I fervently hope the planned spending cuts have a less damaging effect on our industry than we might justifiably expect. For a start, we need more, not less, policing.

Security is an increasingly top-of-the-list matter for many jewellery retailers and in this issue we turn our attention to this subject with news and advice from some of those at the sharp end of things. You may imagine that you have read it all before – and much of it amounts to common sense – but in my view there are some things that can’t be repeated too often,

Page 44

so I make no apology for doing it again. And if we can’t rely on those in power to help us, read how SaferGems (for one) can help us to help ourselves.

How retailers might improve watch sales is also a topic for discussion in our pages this month. Along with a round-up of some of the most beautiful of the serious, premium timepieces, is a report on the fashion and lifestyle brands that are catching the attention of even the most obsessive horophiles.

Along with politics, I’m also steering clear of football talk – I really don’t mind who wins, as long as everyone has a lovely time and is nice to one another (no biting, no scratching, no thumping, no swearing at poor refs and no diving) and it doesn’t all end in tears. And if

“More retailers are upping their physical protection with lobby entrances, laminated glass in shop windows and backs, smoke systems… jewellers do appreciate the risks.”

the ash cloud can lurk harmlessly in a less-than-vital corner of the globe while people who do care travel to and from South Africa that would also be a bonus!

Belinda Morris, Editor If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

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The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Job cuts and reduced consumer spending with VAT rise he British Retail Consortium (BRC) estimates that a VAT rate rise to 20 per cent would cost 163,000 jobs and reduce consumer spending by £3.6 billion over four years.

The BRC is calling on the Government to reduce the budget deficit without damaging the recovery, by prioritising spending cuts over tax rises. It is also cautioning that halving the deficit over four years, not three, would better support the economy.

The independent analysis carried out by the BRC to quantify the economic impact of a range of revenue-raising methods, found that increasing employees’ NI contributions by one per cent and employers’ by 0.5 per cent would reduce UK job numbers by 25,000 in the first year. As a result, consumer spending would contract by £948 million in the first year and £2.2 billion after four years.

“The budget deficit is serious – it has to be tackled but proposals must be judged against the implications for jobs and growth revealed by this new information,” says BRC director general Stephen Robertson. “Business growth will get the country out of the hole it’s in, led by retail. The Government must now deliver a route to stability that supports companies and customers by avoiding damaging tax rises.”

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Armed robbery at Kabiri’s Marylebone High St store n Sunday 23rd May 2010, Kabiri’s Marylebone High Street store was the latest London jewellery store to be targeted by armed thieves.

Kabiri’s staff, and the store’s owner, Darius Kabiri, were all held at gunpoint, while another assailant destroyed the fine jewellery cabinets taking specific items of jewellery.

The thieves escaped with over £125,000 of fine jewellery, each item being a one-off design by up-and-coming jewellery designers. It is Kabiri’s opinion that these selected pieces were stolen to order due to their recognisable style – as shown in these images of two of the stolen pieces.

The armed robbery was captured on CCTV and the thieves were seen escaping in a blue van. Armed Response Officers and CID attended the scene immediately. ”We find it interesting that the designer jewellery market is now being infiltrated by crime – it is a reflection on the growing popularity of the designer jewellery niche,” says co-owner Nathalie Kabiri. ”All the pieces stolen were by designers, exclusive to Kabiri in the UK, and each of the items was a one-off and the statement piece from its collection.”

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8 The Jeweller June 2010

S N I P P E T S Maurice Lacroix powers (almost) ahead A boat entered by Maurice Lacroix came second in the 3 race Grand Prix of the P1 Powerboat Championship last month. As official timekeeper to the event, the company also saw its branding on the all-girl Fuel team, which was racing for the first time. Further races will take place over the coming summer months, including at Lymington, Cowes, Torquay, Southampton and on the Thames.

Richemont’s sales fall Geneva-based Richemont, the second largest luxury goods group after France’s LVMH, has announced a four per cent fall in sales to £4.4 billion, in its full year results.

The group, which includes jewellery and watch brands Cartier, Panerai, Baume et Mercier, IWC, Jaeger le Coultre and Van Cleef & Arpels, saw sales of jewellery fall by three per cent and watch sales down six per cent.

Toby Pomeroy joins ARM’s board US ethical jeweller Toby Pomeroy has been elected to to join the Board of Directors of the Alliance for Responsible Mining – a post for which Scottish jeweller Vivian Johnson of Fifi Bijoux was also nominated. Pomeroy has been a key leader in the socially responsible jewellery movement since 2005 when he inspired two of the largest precious metal suppliers in the US – Hoover & Strong and Stuller Inc. – to offer reclaimed gold and silver to their clients as an alternative to unsustainably mined metals. Greg Valerio, a founding member of ARM, who previously held one of the trading seats on the Board, is now leading on market development of Fairtrade and Fairmined gold at the Fairtrade Foundation in the UK.

Industry News |

Opinion: What the Coalition will do for us or a blissful moment Government has been still – temporarily motionless, on a sea of indecision with only civil servants’ languid doggy paddle keeping the country afloat. Speculation, of course, has been rife, and journalists, broadcasters, and commentators have not been hindered by lack of evidence of the new government’s real intentions. Nor have the pundits and advisors been idle. My inbox is plump with invitations to seminars that will explain the coalition’s new policy direction; directories of new MPs and their responsibilities; and latest of all, MP photo-guides. For the truth is that for a week nobody has really known who the new government is, what it stands for, or what its policies might be.

But now the spell has been broken by the first utterances of the coalition government. Chancellor Osborne has promised to “create the most competitive tax regime in the G20”, which in corporation tax terms could mean a drop from 28 per cent to below 20 per cent. The Royal Mail is to be sold, while the Post Office will stay in public ownership but utilised as a distribution network and perhaps a bank. Plans to implement the Dyson Report on boosting innovation have been agreed in principle, including the suggestion of scrapping R&D tax credits for all except small hi-tech firms. In a surprise move, there is a plan to reinstate Operating and Financial Reviews to “ensure that directors’ social and environmental duties have to be covered in company reporting”.

Nobody attending the last NAG Council will be surprised that the coalition has kept a promise to tackle red tape, including a ‘one-in-one-out rule’ on new regulation; scrapping ‘tick-box’ regulation; and introducing ‘sunset clauses’ under which rules will expire if they are not reviewed – all points of agreement when both parties spoke to us in March. Better still, the system of ‘gold-plating’ European regulation will go. But Prime Minister Cameron’s promise to improve flexible working through employment legislation will garner fewer plaudits from small firms.

In more good news, a ‘wholesale review of all small business taxation’ is promised; 25 per cent of the government procurement programme will be given to SMEs; and significantly for those of us keen to protect the high street, small shopkeepers will be able to appeal against planning permission for large retailers, albeit in a watered-down version. A supermarket tsar to rule on disputes between suppliers and retailers will also be appointed, but there is less clarity over the future of Regional Development Agencies, which may or may not become Local Enterprise Partnerships.

Who will pay? I think we all know that’s the worst kept secret ever.

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The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

New Designers 2010 ow in its 25th year, the New Designers exhibition, which showcases the best of graduate design – including jewellery and fashion – will run from the 1st to the 4th of July and will be held at the Business Design Centre in Islington.

In addition to the students’ work, the event will also include a satellite category – One Year On – which will display a specially selected group of small companies and individual designermakers whose work has matured and progressed in the first year in business. Following the success of One Year On in 2009, the feature will be curated again by manufacturer and distributor Thorsten van Elten. Regularly attracting the attention of retail buyers, stylists and galleries, the feature is one of the most popular elements at New Designers.

Looking forward to the show, which will offer a strong mix of established and new colleges, the show’s director Isobel Dennis comments, ”New Designers is the freshest and most vibrant show of its kind bringing together the very best in UK graduate design – showcasing the work, energy and talent of the next generation of designers. In this economic climate, young designers are hot property for anyone wishing to bring fresh blood into their businesses. Their creativity and transferable skills are crucial.”

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New members for Responsible Jewellery Council he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has expanded the scope of its certification system to include platinum group metals. The resolution to adopt new Articles of Association was unanimously passed during the Council’s Extraordinary General Meeting held after its AGM last month. In May the RJC announced that the Italian Federation of Gold Jewellery, Silverware and Jewellery Manufacturers has joined the Council.

And in March this year Danish Trollbeads became one of the latest companies to become a member of the RJC, which was established to reinforce consumer amd stakeholder confidence in the jewellery industry by advancing responsible business practices throughout the jewellery supply chain. “Trollbeads is proud to join the RJC and is fully committed to responsible practices in meeting high standards of ethical, social and environmental performance”, says Lise Aargaard, chief executive officer.

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Michael Norman passes away ichael Norman, founder of the NAG’s Registered Valuer Scheme, has passed away following a second stroke on Sunday 23rd May. Along with fellow founder David Wilkins, Michael played a fundamental role in the setting up of the scheme in the mid 1980s. Through participation in their seminars hundreds of valuers now provide the public with a professional and ethical valuation service.

His connection with the Association dates back to 1975 and in the 1980s joined the NAG’s Working Party to create the Registered Valuer Scheme. He went on to serve the Association initially on the Valuations Committee and finally the IRV Forum, until his stroke in 2008, which badly affected his quality of life. In recognition of the contribution he made to the jewellery trade, particularly valuations, last year the IRV introduced the Michael Norman Fellowship.

A full obituary will appear in the July issue of The Jeweller.

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10 The Jeweller June 2010

S N I P P E T S Albermarle & Bond to open new stores Following the announcement of an update on trading and the strengthening of its management team, pawnbrokers and jewellers Albermarle & Bond says that it will open at least 15 more stores in this financial year. Strong performance is attributed in part to the the fact that it has been more attractive to scrap second hand items earlier and take advantage of current high gold prices, as opposed to offering them for sale via its retail channels. A & B currently has 87 stores nationwide.

Jersey Pearl marks anniversary with make-over Specialist pearl jewellery brand Jersey Pearl commemorated its 25th birthday with a Las Vegas style make-over last month. Roulette tables and a crazy golf course around the beach front show studio in Jersey were among the attractions for ‘the great and the good’ of the island, who helped the family-run business to celebrate. Last year co-founder John Taylor launched Jersey Pearl’s wholesale collection of CarbonNeutral® pearl jewellery and in 14 months the company has grown to distribute the brand through over 160 UK jewellers and gift shops.

Most expensive cupcake Ideal for those with a sweet tooth and deep pockets is this diamond-studded cupcake created by Glasgow jeweller Rox, to celebrate its involvement in The Scottish Sun’s ‘Glam in the City’ event this month. Hosted by TV stylist Gok Wan, the three-day consumer event (expected to attract 15,000 women) will include the final of Miss Scotland 2010, for which Rox is official jewellery sponsor for the second year. The cupcake (with £100,000 worth of diamonds) will be available from Rox’s Aryll Street store.

Seven million reasons to use T.H. March’s Customer Insurance Solutions

As well as looking after the business insurance needs of our clients in the trade, many of our jewellers also introduce their own customers to us.

This has resulted in T H March paying over £7 million to jewellers in commission, replacement jewellery and jewellery repairs over the last four years.

Two thousand retail jewellers earn commission on any introductions to us as well as benefitting from replacement jewellery sales and repairs following a claim. This keeps customers coming back and spending in their shops, increasing both turnover and customer loyalty. In today’s tough markets, you know how important this is.

To find out how you can benefit, call any of our six branches nationwide, or John Watson on 01822 855555.

You can also visit Your Customer’s Insurance at

www.thmarch.co.uk MIS/7MV1/24.05.10

| Industry News

Hot Diamonds gets starring role K jewellery brand Hot Diamonds is to be the official jeweller at the Philips British Academy Television Awards in 2010, along with such brands as MAC Cosmetics and fashion retailer All Saints. Award nominees and presenters will be offered the chance to wear statement catwalk pieces from the new Black Collection – which was shown to key retail customers at a presentation at BAFTA in London last month.

The exciting new partnership comes with the recently-appointed managing director Jonathan Crocker’s new marketing approach to reposition Hot Diamonds as a ‘cool’ brand.

Cell-phone communication, pop-up shops, special events, CSR and co-branding – such as the BAFTA link – are among the initiatives included in the strategy.

The development coincides with the company’s ten year anniversary, which will be celebrated this September, as well as the launch of a retail concept to support Hot Diamonds’ network of retailers. This year also mark’s the brand’s return to IJL, where it will show a more cohesive and re-designed men’s collection.

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BJA & NAG coming together he chairman of the British Jewellers’ Association, Mike Hughes of Jewelcast is pleased to announce that talks with the National Association of Goldsmiths Executive have progressed and have culminated in guest positions having been offered on each others committees.

“It will be very interesting gleaning information from our fellow jewellers and also putting across the BJA views to their board,” comments Mike Hughes. “If ever there was perfect timing surely now is it with Patrick Fuller being the NAG president.” Mr Frank Wood, NAG deputy chairman has been invited to attend the BJA National Committee meeting in Hatton Garden on the 28th July and Mr Gary Williams, sales director of B&N Rings and the BJA’s vice chairman will represent the BJA at the NAG’s invitation.

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Selfridges hosts Tissot interactive window ast month the Oxford Street branch of Selfridges devoted two of its windows to an ‘augmented reality’ marketing campaign showing Tissot watches.

Created by Holition which develops interactive marketing and retail solutions across the luxury goods sector, the displays allowed customers to ‘try on’ different watches from the collection, using a dummy strap given away by sales staff. The idea will later be rolled out to include high-end jewellery and accessories.

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12 The Jeweller June 2010

S N I P P E T S Scottish Fashion Awards nominee Edinburgh-based jewellery company Tartan Twist has been nominated as Jewellery/ Accessory Designer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards 2010, which will be held on Sunday 20th June. Championed by major British fashion designers and in association with Vogue.Com, the Awards are now in their fifth year and have been established to recognise the wealth of talent in Scotland. Tartan Twist, designed by sisters Lyndsey Bowditch and Gillian Crawford, is the only jewellery company to be nominated – although Rox in Glasgow has been nominated for Retailer of the Year.

CIBJO updates precious Blue Books The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) has released an updated version of both its Gemstone Book and Precious Metals Book, which includes a new appendix giving information on precious metal finenesses.

The books are part of the Blue Blue series, which outline a definitive set of standards for the grading, methodology and nomenclature standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls and precious metals. A number of committees comprised of representatives from global trade organisations, continuously update the books, which are available to download from the CIBJO website.

New appointment at Seiko UK Following the retirement after 30 years of Paul Wilmslow, David Harmby has been appointed to the Board of Directors of Seiko UK. He will now have overall responsibility for the sales and marketing of all the Seiko watch Corporation’s brands.

He will also continue as general manager of Binda UK

| NAG News

RJC celebrates success stories epresentatives of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) joined UK colleagues – including the NAG and BJA – for a series of meetings culminating in the Council’s AGM last month.

During the AGM the key officers of the Council were re-elected unopposed, thus retaining Matt Runci, president of Jewelers of America as chairman; John Hall of Rio Tinto Diamonds as vice-chairman and Mark Jenkins from Signet as secretary. The Extraordinary General Meeting unanimously passed a special resolution to amend the Council’s Memorandum of Association and adopt new Articles of Association. The effect of these changes means that the scope of the RJC System has been expanded to include the platinum group metals and the Board will be responsible for the consideration of future amendments to the scope of the RJC System.

During their UK visit, sub committees of the Council took the opportunity to discuss the role that trade associations will play in facilitating the auditing process for their member companies, and to review and revise the minutiae of the standards which went public last year.

Speaking after the event, the NAG’s chief executive, Michael Hoare, praised the Council for its success, particularly in recruiting a total membership of 231 companies and organisations, and completing the standards. “As a founder member of the Council I am delighted to see another major milestone reached,” he said. “Not only have we moved the organisation from its developmental to its delivery phase, we have also taken crucial decisions that allow for fundamental changes to the scope of the organisation. In the short term this will see the inclusion of platinum family metals, and in the medium term this could increase the scope of the Council even further.”

In a move designed to stimulate initial discussion, Council members were joined by stakeholders, including NGOs and civil society groups to consider the ramifications of a possible move to production of standards for a chain of custody model. Speakers including Dr Fiona Solomon, director – Standards Development, RJC; Philip Olden, former managing director and chief marketing officer, World Gold Council; Lahra Liberti, of the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), and Harrison Mitchell, director, Resource Consulting Services – a company currently working in eastern DR Congo – who examined the pros, cons, and pitfalls of a standard which was seen as highly desirable by most participants. A worldwide consultation process will commence shortly, while members of the NAG’s Executive Development Forum will have an early opportunity to give their views at the Oxford Congress on the 24th June.

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The NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers Loughborough Conference 2010 on’t forget to make a note in your diary for this year’s Loughborough Conference, which runs from Saturday 18th to Monday 20th September inclusive. This, our 22nd Conference, promises delegates another jam-packed programme with guest speakers including Don Palmieri of New York’s Gem Certification & Assurance Lab, Alastair Dickenson from the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow and our own Alan Hodgkinson, David Callaghan and Doug Garrod.

This year’s programme will concentrate on the theme of ‘learn to earn’.

IRVs and non-IRVs from the 2008 and 2009 Conferences will automatically receive a brochure and booking form towards the end of June/beginning of July. If you’ve never been before, or haven’t been for a while, please contact Sandra Page on 029 2081 3615 or email: irv@jewellers-online.org to receive a copy.

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14 The Jeweller June 2010

Check up or lose out t has recently come to our attention that Royal Mail has added a clause to its contractual terms for customers who have their mail collected – and this might be you. Clause 4.4 states: You must not give us any single item whose contents have a total value of more than £2,500. Breaching this clause results in absolutely no compensation being awarded in the case of loss or damage of your item and, furthermore, you will be liable to pay any legal costs, expenses, claims, losses, damages and awards incurred by Royal Mail as a direct or indirect result.

To ensure you receive loss compensation, it is crucial that you check whether or not your contract includes clause 4.4 – if it does not, then you are still liable to receive compensation; otherwise, you are not.

If you do wish to send goods worth over £2,500, you should request Special Delivery Next Day at your Post Office counter as it is a non-contractual service, provided under the Postal Services Act 2000, and nonamendable by Royal Mail. Members should re-examine their paperwork, to avoid any unexpected surprises.

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NAG News |

Beware of Amex processing fees embers should be cautious when giving refunds to customers who pay with American Express. A member recently informed us that he honored his customer’s request for a refund and Amex refunded the amount for the item, less a processing fee.

The processing fee, however, is not a set amount – it is the same as the initial charge that was applied when the item was purchased, which just happens to be based on a percentage of the value of the item, i.e. £100 bracelet, a £5 charge; a £10,000 ring, a £500 charge, which will be retained should you decide to give a refund.

Members should read the small print of their contracts so they are aware of any charges that may be applied in the event of a refund being given. The Association suggests that the charge is forwarded on to the customer in the event of a refund.

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Pewter Live 2010 ith support from the NAG, Pewterer Live is an annual European Design Competition for pewter and is organised by the The Worshipful Company of Pewterers with the support of the Association of British Pewter Craftsmen (ABPC). It comprises two separate competitions: one exclusively for second year students of all ages from colleges and universities, and the other a professional designer open competition. Pewter Live is held in June each year at Pewterers’ Hall in the heart of the City – a three day event attended by the public, students, designers, manufacturers and retailers as well as City dignitaries. The WCP is a 600-year-old tradition guild, which promotes the design and sale of traditional and contemporary pewter products in the UK and supports small and large pewter manufacturers.

Pewter Live winners were announced on June 10th June. For further information please visit: www.pewterers.org.uk

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New Member Applications To ensure that NAG members are aware of new membership applications within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Harshita Deolia on 020 7613 4445 or email: harshita@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications Browns (Simon H. Brown), Harrogate

Alumni Applications Sabine Monika Orton, Wiltshire

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on (029) 2081 3615.

New Member Applications Fay Terras PJDip PJValDip FGA, Newton Abbot Sophie L Wootton PJDip PJValDip FGA DGA BA(Hons) Art, London

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

Member of the Month In this issue’s Member of the Month, Harshita Deolia talks to Annette Gabbedey whose business, Annette Gabbedey Jewellers is based in Frome, Somerset. She is a fully-qualified and highly skilled designer goldsmith who creates elegant and contemporary jewellery, and specialises in working with opals.

She has been an NAG member since November 2008.

What would you say the strength of your business is?

It’s probably the one-offs and commissions.

People come to the shop knowing they will get something different. We have 24 other designers’ work in our shop aside from my own and we really promote the individuals.

I wanted the shop to look more like a gallery; we have a large front window which is a great opportunity to display all our pieces. In fact, we make all our display stands as it’s hard to find nice interesting displays. It’s not the jewellery that people see from across the road, it’s the display that brings them closer to look at the jewellery, which is why it’s so important to change the theme of the window. At one point I had a customer ready to buy one of my handbags which formed part of the display! At the moment we have changed it to promote a new range of charms and around the time of weddings it’s normally to do with enduring love. I recently created a bangle that was created to symbolise this.

We did some research on the subject and found that the Gurkhas used to exchange bangles, so did Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton – during one of their marriages!

You specialise in working with opals – but they have had a history of being associated with bad luck.

I’ve always loved opals; it’s the amazing colours that have always drawn me in. I think they’re magical – there’s nothing manmade about them at all. Around 11 years ago when I was based at another workshop, I had the opportunity to visit the Coober Pedy mine in Australia. I spent a month out there and I was in awe – of the process, the miners, the passion, the lifestyle… it was amazing.

There’s a real sense of community there, a very rough and ready place but it had a

16 The Jeweller June 2010

real charm about it. The miners are so passionate about opals and about what they do. To see the stones coming out of the ground makes you realise just how precious they are when you wear them.

Opals are quite a fragile stones aren’t they?

Yes they are; it’s what makes them quite difficult to work with because you have to be so careful when setting them. In ten years I’ve cracked one stone; it was a beautiful one that I was using for a stock item so thankfully didn’t belong to a customer, but I was upset when it happened – there were tears! It was a free form shape so I spent days making the setting but I did manage to have the two broken pieces re-cut so I got some use out of them. Normally when I’m setting an opal piece the radio will go off, the door will be closed and I really concentrate on what I’m doing. One customer wanted an opal re-set; the back of the setting was completely closed so it was only when we

To see the stones coming out of the ground makes you realise just how precious they are when you wear them.

took the opal out we saw the many natural cracks it had on the back. It was quite a large piece too so when it came to re-setting it I had many heart-thumping moments!

You have jewellery collections from London-based designers in your shop – is London Jewellery Week going to stretch as far as Somerset?

We’ll probably do something in a small way – it’d be unfair to just promote our Londonbased designers and not the others. We’ll have a window display with some information about what’s going on and about the designers. We’d like to let people know that we are connected with what’s happening – we’re not just a country farm town!

Could you share a story with our readers about memorable customers, A lady came into the shop a few weeks after her husband had passed away. She wasn’t wearing her engagement, wedding or eternity rings because they no longer fitted her and she had been meaning to get them re-sized for some time. Her husband had also left her a piece of slate in a heart shape and she wanted to get that set into a pendant. She was quite emotional when she came into the shop and you can’t help but get drawn into other people’s lives. We both had tears when she came in to pick up the pieces of jewellery and she’s now one of my favourite customers. It’s funny how people’s lives can become connected. There was a day when something had happened to me when I was in the shop, and the same customer just happened to walk in and was there for me when I needed someone to talk to.

That’s the beauty about Frome, there’s a great sense of community and people don’t just come in for two minutes, they spend time talking to you.

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BJA News |

Working together to beat crime ne of the hottest topics for anyone in the industry at the moment is security and unfortunately, whether you speak to manufacturers or to retailers, everyone knows Mike Hughes, somebody who has suf- chairman of the BJA fered a recent robbery.

The toll this takes on those involved who may have been faced with violence, or even just threats of violence, cannot be underestimated. We at the BJA are passionate about trying to work more closely with our members to share detailed information on security incidents. We can then ensure that police forces around the country are appraised of what is happening outside their own patches to bring about a more joined up approach to tackling what is, undoubtedly in many cases, the work of professional gangs.

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We would also like to work more closely with you – our retail customers – and on behalf of all those jewellery reps out there I would like to make a personal plea to NAG members to do all that they can to help the many sales representatives who visit them, to keep safe.

This is commonsense and I know that most of you reading this will already be extending as much assistance as you can to your suppliers. If you are I thank you; if you suspect that you are not, then perhaps you might like to consider the following suggestions: • Can you provide a safe car parking space for sales reps? Perhaps at the back of your shop away from prying eyes. If this is not possible, could you, or one of your staff, escort the rep to his or her car? Or, better still, keep their cases in the shop while they fetch her car and then park directly outside to load up?

New discounted security service for BJA Members ure Lock Doors are now offering members of the BJA a 2.5% discount on their products and services. The Birmingham based company has designed and manufactured made to measure security doors for fourteen years and their range includes attack resistant shop front doors and frames, with airlock style access controlled lobby.

One of the important benefits of this system is having the maximum amount of glazing without compromising on security and safety. This has been specially designed so it is aesthetically more pleasing, giving the impression of looking like any other shop front rather than a prison! It also has the added benefit of ensuring customers are visible at all times.

Sure Lock Doors have been specifically created to withstand the highest levels of abuse and have proved their strength and durability in many areas suffering from high

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crime and vandalism from tower blocks for councils in the Midlands and Wales to Jewellery premises in Birmingham.

The special beading technique holds the pane of glass in the frame securely not allowing the whole panel of glass to drop out on impact as sometimes happens when upgraded security glass is refitted.

Another feature of the bespoke door is the full length heavy duty stainless steel hinges, rather than just top and bottom pivots which are no where near as strong. The multi point locking system, with locks tested up to LPS1175 level 6, is electronically activated and not just reliant on magnetic locks.

For a bespoke quote for a system colour matched to your existing colour schemes anywhere in the UK please contact Brett Barratt on 0121 706 8400 or email the company at: sales@surelockdoors.co.uk Some regional grants for security upgrades are available.

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Do you have a private place in which reps can show you their goods?

Showing them in full view of shoppers clearly makes them an ideal target when they leave for the opportunistic thief.

• In winter can you perhaps make appointments earlier in the day, so that they do not have to leave late in the evening and in the dark?

These are all small things individually, but they could just make the difference between being safe and being sorry.

The BJA has produced a comprehensive set of personal protection guidelines for all those in the industry. Members can down load a copy of this from the Members Only section of the website www.bja.org.uk Non-members should telephone to request an email version.

Lobbying FedEx pays off for BJA he British Jewellers’ Association has been lobbying to get the FedEx delivery service re- instated to the Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham.

Lindsey Straughton from the BJA said, “I am pleased to announce that close liaison with the local police force, the Jewellery Quarter Association Executive and TH March Insurance has resulted in progress being made. FedEx have reassessed the situation and have informed the police that they are going to resume deliveries using more secure vehicles from 7th June. I feel sure members will value our lobbying effort on their behalf.”

During the first week of June a further meeting is planned with various BJA specialist jewellery insurance brokers and West Midlands Police. BJA members will be kept informed of the outcome.

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The Voice of the Industry 19

| BJA News

Speaking up for silver The high-profile, contemporary silversmith Martyn Pugh is an ex-chairman of the British Jewellers’ Association and remains on its National Committee as a vocal proponent not only for silver and silversmiths but for all aspects of design. Mary Brittain spoke to him at the launch of ‘British Silver Week’.

exquisite sharkskin covered boxes by talented newcomer James Dougal.

Martyn Pugh’s own contribution was a large, specially-created bowl. This has been a busy time for Pugh as he is about to stage a one-man show at the Roger Bilcliffe Gallery in Glasgow and will shortly fly to America to give a talk at the prestigious Santa Fe Symposium on the technology behind the creation of a pair of commissioned 99 per cent pure microalloyed golden jugs. Add to this his work as a Warden of Birmingham Assay Office, a Goldsmiths’ liveryman, and his continuing work for the BJA and the British Hallmarking Council and one gets a sense of his boundless energy and commitment.

“When I was chairman of the BJA my overriding focus was bringing the design and craft side of our industry closer to those involved in commercial manufacturing and as the people at this gathering demonstrate, this is now happening,” he explained. He’s right. There has undoubtedly been a pulling together of the disparate strands of the sector and it was interesting to note that several commercial casting companies, some long-established retailers and a wellknown mass producer of silverware were among the sponsors for the event.

“Designers and design in one form or another are more and more in the news and when they come together and speak with one voice they have far more power than individually. This is where organisations like the BJA and events like British Silver Week really have a role to play,” added Pugh.

Martyn Pugh (inset) and his ‘Linear’ coffee pot, jug and sugar bowl

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ontemporary design is now the single most important thing in our industry.

Those businesses that have embraced it are succeeding and those that do not will most certainly go to the wall,” Pugh told me, when we met in the extremely tasteful and beautifully-designed setting of The Pangolin Gallery in North London.

Around us was work from around 85 of the UK’s finest silversmiths exhibiting together in the first of around 16 country-wide selling exhibitions backed by, among others, the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths and the British Jewellers’ Association and facilitated by the organiser of British Silver Week, Gordon Hamme.

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20 The Jeweller June 2010

BSW, which numbers Lord Cunliffe, past prime warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company, and the Duke of Devonshire among its patrons, is now in its third year and is rapidly gathering steam and national recognition.

The work on show included pieces from some of the industry’s big hitters such as Brett Payne, Fred Rich and Malcolm Appleby, but there was also much new talent on display. Names to watch include Miriam Hanid, Louise Cheshire and Charlotte Tolleyfield all of whom picked up several prizes each. The silverware varied hugely in size and price and there was plenty to take the eye, from flamboyant flower holders by Olivia Lowe through to

A selection of silverware by British designers displayed at the Pangolin Gallery

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Jeweller picks...

A selection of new watch models for 2010 from the more traditional or premium sector of the market.

PORSCHE

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The P’6780 is Porsche Design’s second diving watch in more the 25 years and features a case that is as unorthodox as it is functional. Anchored within a titanium bridge structure is a hinged container, which can be raised to set the time – preventing the crown from being inadvertently turned and protecting against damage. The new timepiece has an automatic movement, handles depths of up to 1000 meters and has a dial that can be read in the dark.

GUCCI

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ROTARY

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Inspired by nautical sports, this Classic Unisex chronograph by Gucci has a black PVD case and green or black rubber strap (also available in brushed steel and bracelet version).

The quartz movement watch offers the highly recognisable brand signature through flashes of the iconic green-red-green on the dial.

Rotary Watches has announced the launch of a new generation of performance timepieces under the Rotary Aquaspeed brand.

Originally launched early in 2009, the collection of sports watches has broadened Rotary’s portfolio beyond the dress watch line and now includes timepieces with functions such as helium pressure gauges, aviation slide rules and rotating divers bezels in both watch and chronograph versions. The collection also includes a selection of oversized aviator-style watches

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CORUM

The new Limited Edition Ti-Bridge model from Corum now comes with a flying tourbillon complication – without upper bridge, the escapement beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour appears to be floating above the baguette movement. The addition of two ARCAP (copper and nickel alloy) cross bars, which suspend the movement in the centre of the titanium case, highlight the effect of weightlessness.

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SEIKO

Five years after it was launched, Seiko has introduced a new generation of the world’s first Electronic Ink watch – the EPD watch with an active matrix system. The new display system still has the legibility benefits of the original, but allows for a much richer range of imagery and data to be displayed on the dial.

Another first, this watch has an EPD display made of 80,000 pixels offering infinite display possibilities on a screen that is large enough to them justice – while being easy to wear.

BREIL

Paying homage to the first Breil watches from the 1930s the new 939 line that combines Swiss manufacture with Italian style, is Breil Milano’s key dress watch collection. Modern and classical comes together – both in terms of design and mechanisms – with traditional bracelets or leather straps, teamed with oversized 44mm cases housing Swiss made chronograph technology. The models are available in tone on tone black dials and straps or sleek stainless steel.

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ETERNA

Because women are now buying the style, Swiss watch manufacturer Eterna has redesigned the cases of its Soleure chronograph collection, giving improved comfort to slimmer, feminine wrists. In addition, a metal bracelet is now available (alongside white, brown or black alligator straps) and the dial and hands have also been redesigned. A self-winding mechanical movement with date calendar (38 hours of reserve power) is housed in the slim, polished steel case.

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MICHEL HERBELIN

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The latest edition to Michel Herbelin’s Newport chronograph range is this sleekly sporty, masculine style in black and white. Featuring a Swiss quartz movement 1/10th of a second, with a 42mm stainless steel case, the watch is also water resistant to 10ATM.

MAURICE LACROIX

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Taking design and the skills of watchmaking a stage further, Maurice Lacroix’s Masterpiece Régulateur Roue Carrée combines technology, innovation and modern aesthetics. This timepiece features hours displayed within a square wheel, which is driven by a visible clover-shaped mechanism. A ‘Superluminova’ points to the hour. Such a complicated and illogical movement, involving defining the shapes of the teeth to ensure constant power transmission, involved many attempts and much time.

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Robust and highly technical, this Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel by Brietling features magnetic push pieces hidden inside the case, which allows the watch to be activated through the metal without any direct mechanical contact. As a result the timepiece (unlike other chronographs) is functional to a depth of 1,000 meters.

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JORG GRAY

If wearing the same watch as (arguably) the most powerful man in the world sounds impressive to you then the Jorg Gray 6500 Chronograph, as sported by Barak Obama, might be of interest. But should you be unmoved by such celebrity endorsement, perhaps the sleek lines of this Americanmade timepiece with its Japanese movement, Italian leather strap, brushed or polished steel case and reasonable price tag (£260) will do the trick?

FRANCK MULLER

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The Conquistador T GP looks as dramatically imposing as its name suggests, with its unusual case shape, bold colour detail and strong, graphic numerals. The watch features a manually wound mechanical movement and a case that comes in all titanium or titanium with either rose gold or lightweight metal composite Ergal. The alligator strap is lined with hand-sewn alcantara.

BULOVA

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BREITLING

RAYMOND WEIL

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This year marks the 50th anniversary of Bulova’s introduction of its milestone Accutron tuning fork technology. This new model from the Accutron Kirkwood Collection combines a full skeleton dial and exhibition caseback to offer two views of the 26-jewel self-winding mechanical movement. In stainless steel with rose gold ion-plated finish, it also has anti-reflective luminous hands and an alligator-grain leather strap.

Raymond Weil has added a titanium model to its nabucco range – the nabucco Va, Peniero. Named after the Verdi chorus, the new model showcased in grey-grained graphite features a 46mm-diameter case and round bezel with tachometric scale set into the titanium – resilience and waterresistance are a given. There are three sub-dials along with a date window, all set in a central zone featuring three screws for optimal time-reading.

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EDOX

Created for the World Rally Championship (WRC), Edox’s Chronorally allows drivers to time their performance thanks to a plethora of new functions. Push pieces on the crown access stage timing with an accumulated stage time, recount/reply mode, countdown mode and chronograph – even for the gloved hand of the rally driver. And with a nod to the sport, the watch features car-themed details such as a raised caseback representing a wheel and its rubber wristband reproducing the contours of car tyres.

PERRELET

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VICTORINOX

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As a contrast to the uber-functional, macho watch styles, this elegant, slim line Pulsar timepiece would suit the customer whose taste lies more in the subtle than the sporty.

The stainless steel case with its polished finish, features rose gold details, while the dial design is minimal with clear hour markers.

The model also comes in a gold-plated or black ion-plated finish.

The Dive Master 500 by Victorinox Swiss Army has been joined by the new Black Ice Chrono and Mecha styles. While one is equipped with a chronograph movement, the new Mecha model, featuring a deep blue dial and matching rubber strap, is powered with a Swiss-made mechanical self-winding movement. The trademark Black Ice PVD coating now extends across the entire Dive Master 500 collection.

BAUME & MERCIER

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PULSAR

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The new Turbine collection by Perrelet has been inspired by the world of aviation – the models feature an automatic Double Rotor movement. The 12 titanium blades of the rotor cover the whole of the dial and slip beneath an interior black raised area, showing luminous numbers. Echoing a fuselage, the turbine is housed a 44mm cancave-shaped titanium case, with a black rubber bracelet completing the look.

Five new models have been added to the Classima Executives line of watches by Baume & Mercier, including this sleeklooking L Steel and Black quartz model.

Ultra slim (just 4.4mm) it features a matt black 39mm dial with Roman numerals and anti-glare sapphire crystal. Also in the range: Dual Time Chronograph, Open Balance & Power Reserve, and Magnum XXL.

| Industry Update

No-one gets paid to visit your website BJA members who exhibit at the Birmingham Fairs all contribute financially towards the excellent on-line marketing package – but are they using the system to its full potential throughout the year? Can retailers be encouraged to surf more? Iain Nicol, commercial director of digital exhibitions for EMAP Connect, explains the advances and investment being made to bring buyers and sellers together both pre and post shows. e are all aware how the internet has changed our lives – the way we think, how we behave, and even what we do.

It continues to grow at unprecedented rates with no sign of abating. To put things into perspective, it took 38 years for radio to reach 50 million listeners; it took Facebook less than 11 months to add 175 million users.

In the digital economy, we have all become ‘users’ rather than ‘listeners’ and ‘watchers’, and that says a lot about how our attitude and relationship to information has changed.

On average, UK internet users are looking at 15 different websites per week, and business people are regularly using it to do research, obtain product and supplier information and make purchasing decisions. That requires a new approach from suppliers who want to sell their products. No-one gets paid to visit your website! It is no longer enough just to ‘be on the web’ and expect people to find you. Businesses need to help buyers gain access to information that they can use to do their jobs better, and facilitate a relationship with suppliers that helps them build competitive advantage. That requires a reappraisal by exhibitors of traditional one-way marketing methods. The goal is no longer to control the conversation, but instead to give buyers something to talk about; to inspire, motivate and engage them.

We all know that buyers don’t act unless they are motivated by something or someone.

In fact, according to an Association of Events Organisers study, 55 per cent of people’s impressions of exhibitors are created by what they see and 38 per cent by what they hear. At physical events, buyers are

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26 The Jeweller June 2010

bombarded with motivation – great stands, friendly salespeople, creative advertising, marketing literature, product videos, demonstrations, special offers, free gifts, celebrity endorsements etc. Interestingly, and perhaps obviously, what motivates buyers at exhibitions also motivates them online including: • viewing products • finding out about suppliers • reading customer reviews and press releases • special offers • video presentations and demos • product catalogues • company newsletters • trade association affiliation

These exhibitors get a better share of buyers looking at their profile, visiting them at the show and enquiring about products they sell.

In response to the increasing demand from buyers for more user-friendly access to exhibitor information, we are completely re-designing the websites that support Spring Fair and Autumn Fair to be much more buyer-focussed and embracing of social networking channels, where time spent is growing at three times the overall internet rate.

New functionality will allow buyers to personalise how they interact with exhibitor content, get closer to products and save and share information with colleagues. They will

be able to tag and save product favourites, catalogues, videos and build and extend better relationships with exhibitors via a personal dashboard including automated alerts when exhibitors upload new content.

It all starts with the launch of the new Autumn Fair website: www.autumnfair.com What’s clear is that buyers want regular access to supplier and product information to help them make supplier selection and product purchasing decisions. Our latest analysis of over 2,000 online profiles show that exhibitors who enhance their profile get on average 14 times more views and eight times more click-throughs to their website than those who don’t. These exhibitors get a better share of buyers looking at their profile, visiting them at the show and enquiring about products they sell.

We are introducing a new Ezone that will make it much easier to upload content to an online profile, monitor what buyers are looking at and even recruit ‘followers’ that they communicate with directly from the Ezone.

These new features will take us beyond the simple click-through and provide tangible sales leads for exhibitors to measure their return on investment and adjust their web content throughout the buying seasons to match buyer preferences more closely.

The rules are changing, with ever-expanding channels of communication. And although, physical events remain as strong as ever, online – including social media – has become a more influential source in helping people make purchasing decisions. We all need to respond to that challenge. iain.nicol@emap.com

| Feature This time last year, we ran a feature in The Jeweller that looked at the very broad subject of security. In particular we focussed on robbery and reported that 86 per cent of retailers agreed that the ‘climate of fear’ was greater than ever. Twelve months on and the situation is no better.

Over the following pages Belinda Morris presents a comprehensive review of security news, views and advice.

SPOTLIGHT ON

SECURITY he 2010 Security Survey conducted by the NAG has revealed that 50 per cent of the 77 retailers who responded feel more vulnerable than a year ago – the remainder admitting that they feel just as fearful. And almost 20 per cent have experienced violent robbery in the last year.

So what can we do about it (besides shutting up shop or resorting to on-line selling only)? Putting complete faith in the police is a laudable, but not very realistic option (not enough police locally, say 66 per cent) which leaves the ball very much in the court of the retailer.

Taking the security of your business and staff extremely seriously and doing as much

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as possible to help yourself makes more sense now than it ever did. Which is why the SaferGems initiative was launched last year. Since then, 95 alerts have been circulated; 390 reports have been submitted by jewellers and police, of which 330 involve attacks on premises and people, £9 million worth of losses have been reported to SaferGems, the highest levels of incidents being reported in London, Thames Valley and West Midlands.

Alan Townsend, chair of SaferGems/ Police Liaison Group answers some of the frequently asked questions about the initiative and why every jeweller should sign up for the (free) service.

How does SaferGems work?

It provides a single point of contact for the jewellery industry to report details of attacks and suspicious activity. Details of these are recorded by the SaferGems team and passed on to the relevant police force to ensure that any necessary action is taken. The details are kept on a dedicated database, which is available to the police on request.

How does this help me, the retailer?

Alerts relating to the reports are circulated by email to members of the scheme to make sure they are aware of incidents occurring locally and nationally. By highlighting suspicious activity and crimes as they are reported, emerging threats can be quickly identified and acted upon. Retailers therefore benefit from this unique insight and positive intelligence into active criminal threats that could affect them at any time. One particular alert circulated on the 2nd March 2010 assisted two police forces to investigate two offences, ultimately resulting in three arrests.

Who can participate in the scheme?

Full members of the NAG and anyone insured with TH March.

I don’t fit the category for full membership, but I’m interested in SaferGems.

Can Affiliate or Allied members access the scheme?

Yes! Having started with those most at risk – retail shops – the success of the scheme

28 The Jeweller June 2010

Feature | means that we can now extend the service to other categories. There is an administration fee to cover the cost of this.

Our branches don’t have external email – how can they receive the alerts?

All that is needed is a single point of contact to email the alerts to – perhaps a head office.

It can then be forwarded to the necessary branches by phone, fax, post etc. If your company has an intranet system, alerts can be uploaded to that. An alternative would be to include the alerts in a news letter or bulletin.

I’m already part of a local network where we inform each other of incidents, so why would I need to get involved?

It’s great to be part of a local scheme, but it’s also important to think of the bigger picture – how we can all help to prevent crime in the industry. If your information is only being circulated among local jewellers, police may be missing vital pieces of the puzzle.

Our staff are already trained to look out for suspicious activity, so do we really need SaferGems?

We feel that it is always worth looking over the alerts in the event that the attention of staff is diverted at any time. The information circulated on SaferGems is very up to date and staff members may not be trained on security issues on a regular basis, so these alerts may help to refresh some aspects of their training, or to inform them of new developments.

Will I be bombarded with emails?

SaferGems will send out alerts only to members, nothing else. If you’re concerned about the number of alerts that may come through to your inbox, you can set up a separate folder in your email system.

I don’t stock expensive brands so do I really need to be part of it?

All jewellers are targets, in fact, those who don’t have security measures in place are

more so. Criminals have been reported stealing various pieces of jewellery that aren’t always branded, so it’s not just the expensive items that are stolen.

How can I add more than one name per company to receive the alerts?

Alerts are issued to the e-mail address(es) shown on the branch screen(s) of the SaferGems website, not to any e-mail address shown on the ‘Subscriber’ screen.

Head offices can be copied in on all alerts to branches by ticking the ‘Alert Head Office’ box on the Subscriber screen. A Subscriber can also create an additional dummy branch to carry the e-mail address for a colleague.

SaferGems currently has 4,440 members nationwide, including retail jewellers, manufacturers, pawnbrokers and distributors.

It will continue to maintain and evolve this liaison role in order to streamline information and intelligence flow between police and the jewellery industry.

NAG Security Survey Results How vulnerable do you feel this year compared to last?

More 50% Same 50% Less 0%

Have you been a victim of violent robbery over the last year?

Yes 18% No 82%

Would you seriously consider shutting up shop and having an online presence if you were a persistent victim of violent crime?

Are you planning to invest in security over the next couple of years?

Yes 41% Maybe 39% No 20%

Have you signed up to the SaferGems initiative?

Yes 53% No 47%

Is your shopping district covered

by CCTV?

Yes 79% No 21%

Which concerns you most?

Deception 18% Fraud 9% Violence 73%

Is there a great enough police presence locally?

Do you take security measures at home?

Yes 34% No 66%

Yes 83% No 17%

Yes 55% No 45%

The Voice of the Industry 29

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Feature |

SPOTLIGHT ON

SECURITY Industry Advice It might be argued that any jeweller worth his stock will have every conceivable security measure in place. But on the basis that the subject is too important not to revisit, TH March insurers offers this condensed version of the comprehensive advice it gives clients.

BURGLARY RISKS • High value items left out of the safe at night, especially where visible in the shop interior or through display windows, increases risk. Good physical protection is essential. Crowbars, sledgehammers and angle grinders will get through most physical protection – even a solid wooden door and lock.

• If you are subject to the new European standard, EN50131, your Alarm Receiving Centre can only call the police if they receive two independent activations within a defined period, or visual or audio evidence of a burglary.

Alarm protection needs to be designed with that in mind.

•

For commercial jewellery premises, an alarm system installed to the Euro grade 3 standard will be required. This will also need to include dual path signalling to the Alarm Receiving Centre

by BT Redcare GSM, Dualcom Plus or Dualcom GPRS G4. These will activate three main types of alarm confirmation: sequential verification, audio verification and video verification. It is also important to use panic alarms correctly – if safe to do so and if a robbery is actually taking place.

RAM RAIDS The best precaution against ram raids is street furniture – i.e. fixed concrete bollards.

If unavailable, ensure that you have very strong steel structures of reinforced concrete built into the lower half of your display window. This should be sufficient to take heavy vehicle impact.

SMASH AND GRAB Strength of security glazing is provided mainly by the type and thickness of the inter layer.

The traditional security anti-bandit glass is made up of a 1.5mm layer of a plastic substance (pvb) and for many years this, in various forms, was the best that could be provided. An improvement in security can be obtained with polycarbonate glass laminate (Poly C).

Often jewellers have light weight locks that don’t resist any force, light weight frames to window backs and just plate glass.

As a rule the minimum quality of glass which should be installed within your display windows is to European Standard EN356:P4A with a minimum thickness of 11.5mm. However it is highly recommended that glass to the P6B standard is installed.

Using polycarbonate glass will provide substantially improved protection for the thickness of glass used. Polycarbonate glass is only as good as its framing. It needs proper installation in the correct type of high quality frames to be at its most effective.

WINDOW BACK SECURITY • In many armed robberies window backs are forced or smashed. Often jewellers have light weight locks that don’t resist any force, light weight frames to window backs and just plate glass.

• Even 7.5mm anti-bandit glass into window backs, with good locks in a good frame, will slow criminals. This is particularly true where the risk is spread over a number of such windows, each of which has to be forced individually.

• For traditional type locks one key should operate all locks, and should be carried on the person of members of staff. Hidden electronic locks with a key fob to open are useful.

The Voice of the Industry 31

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| Feature •

Sliding doors, should not be able to be lifted or jemmied out of their rails and, if unframed sliding glass, the locking system should not just allow one sheet of glass to be forced past the other.

FOG GENERATING SYSTEMS Fog generating systems use glycol released very quickly so as to obscure the whole of the shop interior. It disperses on its own accord within 10 minutes to half an hour, depending upon ventilation and does not leave any noticeable residue. It is very successful, particularly when it traps the criminal and prevents him exiting, giving the police time to respond to the alarm. It is very important that there is an automatic audible explanation that the system is activated. This is designed to avoid panic and is essential when customers may be present.

MOBILE PANIC ALARMS Mobile panic alarms (PAs) are useful, but sometimes shop floor staff cannot use a mobile PA or get to a fixed one. CCTV covering the showroom with a monitor in a rear office, workshop etc should allow someone to spot what is going on and press a personal attack button. It is a good idea to have audio monitoring of the shop from offices so staff there will hear the commotion.

It also gives them time to lock safes in their areas and perhaps exit via a back door.

SMARTWATER SmartWater is a low pressure spray which has a unique DNA style code imbedded into a fluorescent water based solution. Once activated, intruders will be sprayed with a harmless forensic liquid, which will remain on their skin or hair for weeks and on clothing indefinitely. The forensic signature within each installation is unique to that premises.

AIRLOCK ENTRY SYSTEMS An airlock entry system is an entrance lobby for customers and staff, with an outer door and an inner door, where both doors are controlled by electric release locks and only one door can be opened at any one time.

Doing this with a plate glass door and/or plasterboard partition, may deter a unprofessional thief and inexperienced thieves who try snatches, but will have no effect on a planned serious robbery.

32 The Jeweller June 2010

TIGER KIDNAPS This refers to the kidnap of members of staff’s family who are held under threat of violence or death unless the employee cooperates in crime. That could mean disabling security systems, or it could be that the employee is forced to empty the shop, empty the safes and deliver the contents to an agreed handover point. Fortunately tiger kidnaps are still rare, but TH March have detailed advice.

GENERAL • Be aware of people hanging around.

• Be suspicious of people in vehicles watching the premises, particularly if repeated • Be alert for the unusual: persons showing unreasonable interest in security or staff numbers; pointless or ill thought out enquiries; groups of

people who would not be expected to shop together; persons asking to see high value items who seem unlikely to be able to purchase them; nervous persons.

OPENING AND CLOSING PROCEDURES These are your most vulnerable times. At least two members of staff should be involved, and the keys should be split as follows: • One member of staff should have the safe key or knowledge of the combination, the other should have the premises and alarm key/code.

• If a safe has more than one locking system, implement dual control by dividing the keys/code and combinations between staff.

• Entry and exit should always be via the most public entrance – usually the front of the premises.

• Consider using time locks and time delay locks on safes.

• Opening and closing staff should carry mobile personal attack alarms.

TH March provide their clients with comprehensive guidelines on all the elements mentioned here, as well as actions to take and risk avoidance during I a robbery and after such an event.

For more advice from other key insurance companies please see page 36.

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ntained be identified and mai t us m e ut ro it ex r ea t A cl splay es are put on public di t Clear warning notic Protection Plan t Part of the Staff Raid ndem with activation ta in r ce un no an ng ni t Voice war gg Fog Bandit is the fastest and highest density security fogging system on the market, designed to protect staff and assets gg Delivers 28 cubic metres of fog per second gg Reduces visibility to just 25cm in controlled areas gg Projects the fog 6 metres in the first 2 seconds alone gg Up to 25 activations from one cartridge means no engineer call-out or top up costs after each activation gg Exceptionally low running costs gg Leaves NO residue gg 24/7 deterrent: short, high speed activation for daytime risk but set for room fill for overnight protection gg The most technologically advanced system on the market gg Manufactured in Belgium

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| Feature

SPOTLIGHT ON

SECURITY News & Services GANG CONVICTED AFTER JEWELLERY RAID Three men have been convicted of robbery after they were sprayed with SmartWater while making their getaway from Brufords Jewellers in Eastbourne. The gang wore dark clothing and face masks as they entered the high street shop, knocking the manager to the floor. They then smashed open display cases and stole 32 Rolex, Breitling and Omega watches worth over £95,000.

The store was fitted with a SmartWater Index Spray System which activated as the gang made its escape. The forensic liquid containing a chemical code unique to a particular location stays on skin for many weeks and is virtually impossible to remove from clothes and shoes. The liquid, which can only be seen under UV light, allows the police to irrefutably place a criminal at a particular crime scene.

At the time of arrest the three offenders, along with their clothes and getaway vehicles, were all covered in SmartWater, while footprint evidence was also recovered from the crime scene. This formed a key component in the prosecution case against the gang. Nationally, SmartWater has been responsible for hundreds of criminal convictions and maintains a 100 per cent conviction rate, the company having never lost a case in court.

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED WITH SMOKE CLOAK VALI SERIES A year after it was introduced following demand from end-users, SmokeCloak’s new Vali series has been pronounced a success.

The aim of the most recent system was to maintain the high degree of safety and reliability associated with the Thousand-series, while at the same time adding a number of unique features requested by the industry.

The configuration of the Vali, via a PC/laptop is unique to SmokeCloak and very fast, say the manufacturers. Combined with the mounting and the simplified wiring, the installation time has been reduced by up to one hour – a considerable saving. In the same way, the maintenance of the unit has been optimised with the quick-release fluid container, which can easily be replaced by the installer.

The software in the Vali fog generator, together with the Cloaksensor, which measures the fog density, automatically maintains the level of fog in the room. As soon as the visibility in the room is too high, the Cloaksensor will signal the generator to reactivate, ensuring high fog density until the arrival of the guards.

If the fog cannot ‘escape’ the room, through doors or windows, it will stay in the air for up to one hour, thus keeping the sensor passive – to ensure optimal fog production and minimal fluid consumption.

The new system includes interchangeable nozzles to easily modify the direction of the fog.

RIGHT ON TRACK One jewellery business has particular reason to have a little more peace of mind, securitywise. Diamond and bullion dealers UK Bullion had lost £1.5million in a ram raid and so took the decision to install asset-tracking

34 The Jeweller June 2010

devices by Traakit. “The technology is amazing – I’m very happy with them,” says Guy Singleton, sales manager. “The stock is a lot more defended now because if anything is taken, the police will be thirty seconds behind them.”

The ‘fag-packet’ sized unit can be set-up and commanded via a PC (as well as mobile phones with the Traakit monitor) and the service then keeps watch over a chosen item and sends an alert when the situation changes. The user creates the boundaries within which the item should remain.

While the unit is obviously too big to be attached to an individual jewellery item, it can be placed discreetly behind a mannequin neck or display box – which in many cases finds itself swept into a bag in a rushed raid. Traakit is however, working towards producing ever-smaller devices.

A SAFE FUTURE Through the use of advanced technology, SMP Security has developed a new model of Community Grade ‘O’ cash safes in five sizes, tested to EN 1143-1:2005. The new Grade 0 Mk lll, designed specifically for domestic and small businesses is lightweight and offers the user a minimum of £60,000 jewellery risk and £6,000 cash risk overnight (your insurance companies can confirm this). The safe offers fire as well as burglary protection and features a Class 1 lock which is protected by drill-resisting material.

CRIMES ON-LINE It might not be violent, but internet-based crime is insidious and can be just as damaging to a business. E-Victims.org is a not-for-profit, non-political, non-partisan UK-based website set up to help the victims of e-crimes – as well as help people from being victimised in the first place. Although established initially for the consumer, the founder Jennifer Parry (well-gounded in privacy and internet legislation) has taken into account the concerns of small businesses with the comprehensive information that she offers.

The site covers issues such as passwords (many people/employees don’t understand the need to use different passwords); data leaks; cloud computing; spear fishing; keeping software up to date etc. “A lot of internet safety advice out there stinks,” she says. “It’s too vague, has no explanations, no under-

Feature |

standing of how criminals acts and gives little or no case studies. Jewellers need to become more IT literate and not bury their heads in the sand – it’s too important.” She also recommends visiting www.bcrc-uk.org for seminars and further advice for small to medium businesses. (www.e-victims.org) ROMAG RESIST DEFENDS AGAINST SMASH & GRAB While it took just nine seconds for smash and grab raiders to penetrate the laminated glass window of Mappin & Webb recently, a similar raid on Kutchinsky jewellers in Westminster was foiled thanks to a highly resistant glass-clad polycarbonate alternative – Romag Resist.

Despite attacking the window display with a sledge hammer over a dozen times, the would-be robber was unable to penetrate the glass, abandoned his attempt, rode off on his motorbike empty-handed and was later apprehended and jailed for ten years.

While more expensive than laminated glass, the fact that thousands of pounds worth of jewellery was left untouched obviously spells value for money for this retailer.

CHOOSING MANNED SECURITY While manned guarding is still a niche security measure within the jewellery industry, the alarming increase in the number of physical attacks on premises has forced many retailers and suppliers to rethink their methods of deterrent.

Choosing which manned guard service should not be a random matter. “We believe that accreditation is critically important as there are a lot of ‘cowboy’ firms purporting to be security experts,” says Abbey Pektar, managing director of Magenta Security Services. “People should check the credentials of any firm being considered for

security purposes. In my view it is essential that individuals working in the private security industry undergo a structured SIA training programme that results in a recognised qualification. Indeed, hiring unqualified security staff to protect your business or assets is a risk in itself,” he warns.

Not just a safe choice, Magenta is also a green one. The company has recently been awarded first place in the Green Business Category of the Green Guardian Awards.

This follows being given the Environmental Initiative of the Year prize at the Security Excellence Awards in late 2009. “As a company we continually strive to improve our environmental impact and take CSR policies beyond levels expected in the security industry,” says Pektar.

LOCK, STOCK AND SECURITY SOLUTIONS An independent authoritative opinion on security measures is always a good idea and for all matters relating to locks, safes, shutters etc, the Master Locksmiths Association would be a good starting point.

Established 50 years ago, the not for profit association sets and promotes standards of conduct, practice and materials within the

locksmithing profession. It also ensures that its members undergo strict vetting procedures so that industry (as well as public and government) receive appropriate advice and services. The MLA can also offer advice on risk assessment of buildings; the differences between various of physical deterrents and airlocking systems. www.locksmiths.co.uk SHIPPING SAFELY Shipping diamonds and jewellery comes with great risks, but as well as following rigorous security procedures to protect goods, G4S International now provides global insurance to cover them. Its Insured Parcel Service (IPS) can ship and insure values up to £30,000 either globally or within the UK, with the coverage starting the moment that the package is scanned by the courier until the point that the consignee signs for the receipt of the package. To help manage the risk of loss, G4S can provide a Safer Shipping Checklist. In addition to peace of mind, the company provides same-day deliveries into Hatton Garden from Heathrow; a daily vehicle to and from Birmingham’s jewellery quarter and a secure, overnight delivery service throughout the UK.

FOG FOILS ROBBERY Thanks to the installation of Fog Bandit four armed robbers left empty-handed from a jewellers in Chichester last month. Mandy Sargent, the owner of RL Austen suffered her first robbery, when Rolex watches were stolen, three years ago and so decided to install the fog system for extra security.

Having attempted, and failed, to smash the anti-bandit glass at the back of the window, the four robbers entered the shop and went behind the cabinet – at which point the Fog Bandit was activated. Completely disorientated, all four men (who had travelled from Liverpool) ran out of the shop without having snatched any stock and within an hour had been caught (along with their accomplice in a getaway car) by the Chichester Police. ”The whole thing happened very quickly, probably no more than a minute,” says Sargent and I’m obviously very pleased with Fog Bandit, as it worked out so well. It’s surprising how quickly the fog takes over the shop – but it has a slight peppermint taste, so you know that it’s not a fire.”

The Voice of the Industry 35

| Feature

SPOTLIGHT ON

SECURITY Industry Advice With yet another smash and grab raid reported – this time against a niche designer jewellery shop in London’s Marylebone – the subject of retail security is an increasingly discussed one. This is particularly so among those looking at the issue from an insurance perspective. Advice and opinion from this quarter is flowing… “

rime against jewellers? We’re seeing exactly the same losses, the same methods and very little recovery. It’s no different to how it was a year ago – and if anything it’s getting worse.” The gloomy view is put forward

by Mick Fitch of Risk Tech, who, as a risk assessor working with insurance brokers across the jewellery industry, sees the sharp end of security issues on a daily basis.

But the picture is not as doom-laden as this sounds – there is a glimmer of hope.

“Things are moving on,” he adds. “The open door policy has gone, especially for those retailers directly on the high street and selling high-value items, watches in particular. And even though it can cause problems and hassle, more retailers are upping their physical protection with lobby entrances, laminated glass in shop windows and backs, smoke systems, SmartWater and even personal safety devices. Jewellers do appreciate the risks,” he says.

Given the alarming number of robberies and raids, reported almost weekly, that’s hardly surprising. “Daytime attacks on

C

shopfront windows have increased significantly as have hold-ups, particularly those involving accessing the display windows by force or threat from inside the shop,” says Mark White of specialist jewellery trade insurance brokers Nicholson White. “We have also seen a marked increase in the number of break-ins occurring out of business hours, either involving the forcing up of the shopfront shutters or, more commonly, access from an adjoining empty shop premises or empty flat above.”

He also adds that in the case of break-ins, the thieves seem to be targeting the relatively low-valued, volume stock that would not normally be removed to safes, taking the five or 10 minutes that a response to the alarm system allows to gather up as much as possible. “We are even experiencing

“Whereas the combination of considerable effort and risk for little return was once a deterrent to the thieves, it appears that the rising scrap value of gold and silver along with the popularity of brands is now having an affect.”

Pandora and Trollbeads being targeted and the cost of the damage caused can easily be as high as the stock loss,” he says. “Whereas the combination of considerable effort and risk for little return was once a deterrent to the thieves, it appears that the rising scrap value of gold and silver along with the popularity of brands is now having an affect.”

White, like Fitch, can offer a nugget of optimism: “We have had some success in the past year,” he says. “By pretty regular

36 The Jeweller June 2010

contact with our clients, we have been able to spread the word regarding the wave of deception and distraction thefts that were occurring throughout the country, along with the methods used and so now see a very pleasing reduction in the number of these incidents.”

Nicholson White is now hoping to achieve similar success in countering the daytime window attacks and out of hours break-ins.

Rather than reacting to an incident, it is recommending that clients be pro-active in looking at prevention measures. “Our insurers are being incredibly supportive and are offering annual premium discounts to clients who install clear security film to the display window glazing for example and, most effective of all, to those who are installing Smoke-Cloak, Fog Bandit or an equivalent to add to their alarm systems when closed,” he explains.

Security awareness is also at the forefront of Global Jewellery Insurance Services – which has been in the business of insuring jewellers since 1977. “The attacks on [the industry] are at an all-time high and there is urgent need for all sectors of the trade to assess their risk to exposure, identify their weaknesses and take preventative action,” agrees Harry Warren, director of GJIS. Over the years the company has developed several Security Aids – available either in printed form or downloadable from its website (www.gjis.co.uk). Because over the years GJIS has learned how to communicate instructions to jewellery company employees (particularly jewellery

sales reps and agents), the posters offer the clarity, authority and attention to detail that is key. Categories such as General Security, Opening & Closing Premises in Safety and Health & Safety are covered by the posters, while stickers announcing Time Locks for Safes and Security Notices for windows are also available. The company can also produce personalised risk management communications for clients – particularly useful for smaller companies without the benefit of HR or health and safety departments.

We create outstanding

shopfronts that maximise brand awareness while maintaining the security of your premises. Our experienced design team can work with new or existing shutters to produce stunning

visuals that will ensure your

shop front is working for you even when you are closed.

The Shutter Graphic Specialists Tel: +353 (0) 18352938

Email: shane@rollervision.ie

Web: www.roller-vision.com

Feature |

Make sure you are protected

particularly before installing any new protections. Such advice is normally free and is backed by many years experience.

Some of the methods by which a good level of effective security can be achieved include: • All accessible windows should be fitted with good quality window locks.

Vulnerable windows and fanlights should be protected with substantial grills or shutters.

• Vulnerable doors e.g. rear exits should be protected with sheet steel linings secured with non-removable screws or bolts. Glazed doors should be fitted with either security grills or shutters.

• All external doors and shutters, together with their frames, should be of substantial construction and always kept in good repair. Good quality locks should always be fitted such as mortice deadlocks conforming to British Standard BS3621.

• All outward opening external doors should also be fitted with hinge bolts.

• All keys to the premises (including those for safes) should always be removed from the premises when closed.

• Always ensure waste is taken away frequently and not allowed to accumulate especially at the rear of premises, unless kept in locked metal bins.

• Empty cash registers and leave trays open when closed for business.

If you already have or decide to install a burglar alarm, insurance companies normally require the system to be installed and maintained by an approved company.

Never install a system without checking with your insurer first.

A reputable broker such as T.H. March, will be on hand to offer guidance following the crime and, with over 123 years experience, they are more than prepared for dealing with jewellers affected by burglary. For maximum protection you must work alongside your insurance company or broker and reviewing your policy regularly is vital, something which T.H. March offer as standard as part of its Jewellers Block insurance.

The level of security protection best suited to your business will depend on a number of factors such as location of your premises: a high street or in a managed shopping precinct for instance, and the type and value of your stock. For these reasons it is recommended you seek the help and guidance of your insurance broker or insurance company,

T.H. March is a well-established family business founded in1887. With offices in London, Birmingham, Manchester, Glasgow, Sevenoaks and Yelverton near Plymouth, the company has departments covering household, motor, travel, commercial and scheme insurance. Visit www.thmarch.co.uk

SPOTLIGHT ON

SECURITY Anti-Burglary Advice

When you think of situations that can harm or affect your business, the recent recession and economic climate probably spring to mind – it’s easy to forget other risks that potentially could be damaging. Protecting your business forms part of your day-to-day routine and security is always a key consideration – however, predicting the unexpected is not and burglary is one of those things that we never want to believe will strike. Here Neil McFarlane of insurance brokers T.H. March discusses the importance of being primed for a burglary.

Being prepared Any retail jeweller, at anytime, can be a victim of burglary — it is a targeted crime and you cannot stop it happening. But you can do your upmost to be prepared. Your premises may be one of many targets for a burglar but they only have one aim: to extract maximum value in minimum time and to get away safely. Burglars are after high value goods but they will take any stock they think is of worth. This could potentially cripple your business and in light of the current economic situation you need to be more prepared than ever. Also, it should be remembered that it is not just what is stolen but it is also the resulting damage.

You want your business to be secure but it is easy to forget that there are simple steps you can take in order for this to happen.

Remember it is not just burglars you need to protect against but also malicious persons and arsonists.

The Voice of the Industry 39

| Feature

SPOTLIGHT ON

SECURITY Personal Protection As if general trading wasn’t tough enough, the jewellery trade is experiencing an epidemic of vicious attacks and everyone is in danger, especially soft targets like sales reps, says BJA vice chairman Gary Williams of B&N. ust to give it some perspective, on the day of writing this article I commiserated with Simon from Marmalade Jewellers, whose shop had just been attacked and robbed and then I bumped into Derek, from Lawson Ward and Gamage, who a few months ago, had lost his range when he was assaulted outside his home.

My recent and direct experiences have not been too good either. Our nightmare started just under two years ago when B&N lost its first sample range, worth £150k. Police believe that Tony had been followed from the ‘Lanes’ in Brighton. A notoriously difficult place to be inconspicuous and an area where it seems every rep has a dodgy story to tell.

After forty years of business, we consoled ourselves with being unlucky and resolved to be even more vigilant in the future. We started to dress down.

Things slowly returned to normal until last November, when another member of my team returned to his home to find the now infamous three balaclava-clad attackers waiting for him. They smashed both front windows before he could get out of the car

J

40 The Jeweller June 2010

and put something to his throat, as a totally unnecessary inducement to part with his keys.

They opened the boot and ‘hey presto’ another £150k range disappeared. Although traumatised, Marcus’ problems were only just beginning. The insurance company would no longer cover him at his home address and he was forced to relocate.

We were further devastated the following month, when following a visit to the Argyle Arcade, Robin was relieved of his range in

is a pretty safe and tempting way of making money for even the most inept robber.

We are all in the same boat so let’s pull together. Now, as they say at charity functions, here comes the appeal. Company representatives are fast becoming an endangered species and they need your help.

We all know the enormous benefit they bring and how their expertise can help put money in your till. They travel for hours across the UK, through all sorts of horrendous conditions and constant traffic delays and penalty notices, to bring you new products; check and sort your stock; refresh your window displays; provide product knowledge and staff training and have even been known to deliver an appro piece to help you clinch

Shoving some jewellery in an envelope and receiving cash in return is a pretty safe and tempting way of making money for even the most inept robber.

Glasgow. Then in March of this year, we completed the full set, when Alan was also assaulted on his drive and divested of our fourth range.

Police have confirmed an increase in incidents across the UK and believe that organised and potentially vicious criminal gangs from Eastern Europe and South America are behind the epidemic. I have been informed that these gangs are patient and sometimes use extended multiple car surveillance because the eventual jewellery hauls are so lucrative.

B&N are not alone. Not since the intrepid merchants travelling the silk routes of the Far East, have a group of salespeople sustained such targeted personal attacks, to secure their wares.

With the incredibly high and climbing metal prices, I am sure that offloading illicit gains has never been easier or more rewarding.

Let’s face it, shoving some pieces of jewellery in an envelope and receiving cash in return

that sale. So, please, please, please, help them now by thinking about their safety.

Here are just two small suggestions which will make a huge difference.

• Please don’t sit them in full view of your customers and passers-by. If you haven’t got even the smallest private office, invite them to your side of the counter, so their ranges are out of site. This is a simple solution to a massive problem.

• Have you got a back door? If it is a safer option, let the rep leave that way, away from prying eyes and bad guy surveillance or ask the rep to drive to the back door to collect their samples.

Things might be difficult right now and the way we trade is definitely changing, but our business is still all about people and relationships, so let’s all try to be more considerate and really look after each other.

Any comments or suggestions, please email me at: gary.williams@bnrings.com

The Voice of the Industry 41

| Industry Update

Looking for a treasure trove?

Retailers who were looking for something a little different to enliven and give a contemporary twist to their stock found plenty of fresh ideas from BJA members exhibiting at Treasure. eaturing some of the UK’s most exciting contemporary jewellery designers the Treasure exhibition was staged, for the third year running as part of London Jewellery Week in Bloomsbury last week.

“Although it is a selling exhibition to the public, Treasure also provides retailers with the opportunity to see both established designer makers and relative newcomers all under one roof and I guarantee that there will be plenty of jewellery to inspire them, as well as the opportunity to spot designers with whom they might wish to work to develop their own collections,” says the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton.

Treasure was just one of many events that took place around London – including Hatton Garden – during London Jewellery Week. www.londonjewelleryweek.co.uk

F

Katie Rowland

Daniel Gallie

A seductive coalescence of metals and precious stones this is jewellery with attitude.

This ‘St. Tropez’ knuckleduster and matching ring(s) is in 18ct gold vermeil & smoky quartz. RRPs are £275 (the duster) and £165 (per ring).

Gallie’s jewellery incorporates fluid shapes and an organic flowing feel. This ring is made up of two separate, interlocking, bands – one in 18ct white and one in 18ct yellow gold balancing the diamond setting.

RRP £900.

Farah Qureshi Leaves, flowers and plants and the motifs in Asian jewellery are the inspiration behind Farah Qureshi’s distinctive designs. Pieces range from delicate stud earrings through to larger jewellery such as tiaras and cuffs.

RRPs for the jewellery featured are £123 (earrings) £123 (etched silver pendant) and £226 (bangle with leaves).

Square Circles

Malcolm Morris Morris is a designer/maker of hand-crafted pieces including wedding tiaras, engagement rings and silver jewellery. These oxidized silver rings with pearls have RRPs from £200-250.

42 The Jeweller June 2010

Nelia de Sousa is a designer who creates bespoke jewellery for any occasion, established Square Circles in 2004 and has built a strong following for her jewellery, all of which is made (including the catches) in London. Pictured are pieces from the ‘Doilies’ collection in 1.5mm laser-cut silver.

RRPs are £112 (ring), £310 (bracelet) and £170 (necklace).

| Feature

Call for

Extra Time...

Fashion and lifestyle brand watches and those timepieces that are keenly trend-led are helping to drive the market… bring them on says Belinda Morris. f it could possibly be said that the economic downturn has had a positive effect on jewellers, it is that it has forced many to reassess their business – potentially for the better. This is especially the case regarding brands, and watch brands specifically.

“The recession has made retailers look inwardly to what brands they are carrying, to rationalise what they are doing,” says Adrian McGillivray of Ferndale UK which distributes Edox watches. “But they are also having to find something new. They may have to have a main magnet to bring customers into the shop, but then they need to offer something novel and different.”

From a fashion perspective it’s fairly obvious which are the ‘magnet’ brands – DKNY, D&G, Boss, Emporio Armani etc – celebrity driven to a large extent and available in every multiple jeweller, they are the ‘it’ names of the moment. But, as McGillivray points out, why carry the same brands as everyone else in the high street? And in any case, in his view “in five years time anything below £300 will be sold on the internet” – but that’s another story.

Meanwhile, the fashion and lifestyle sector of the watch market has seen an abundance of stock over the past few years, which has meant that retailers have had plenty to offer those consumers who subscribe to the ‘watch wardrobe’ philosophy.

Arguably instigated – at this level of the market – by Swatch in the ’80s, it’s a trend that is stronger now than ever, with brands

I

44 The Jeweller June 2010

like Ice-Watch and Toy Watch picking up the bright, fun and funky baton and running with it. “A watch is no longer just for telling time – it’s a piece of jewellery for some and an accessory for others,” says Vicki McCabe, sales director of Sequel UK (Guess and Gc watches and jewellery). And while it makes sense that a different watch would be worn for business or sport, fashion brands offer a much broader potential. “In the future, watches will be treated in a similar [way] to shoes, leather accessories or a handbag – that is, a watch to complement each outfit, season or occasion. It will be an important accessory, to be changed regularly,” says John Schlüter, brand manager of Thomas Sabo.

BCBG MaxAzria

a.b.art

Just how many watches can be found in an average watch ‘wardrobe’ will of course depend on whether we’re talking fashion focussed style at affordable prices – by Storm or Fossil for example – or precision timepieces at the premium end of the market. “In light of the recessionary period, leading to the tightening of purse strings, there is perhaps less tendancy for consumers to buy into a multitude of styles,” says David Harnby, general manager of Seiko UK. “Instead there is maybe a more discerning approach to buying less frequently but having studied the market in a little more detail for a product and brand that really catches their eye.”

Roberto Passariello, sales director of aviator instrument inspired Bell & Ross watches from Switzerland, views the multi-ownership issue from a slightly different perspective – more to do with collecting than accessorising.

“I believe that the watch is a very emotional object. People tend to keep watches that remind them of different moments in their lives – a grandfather’s watch or a first watch perhaps,” he says.

And then there are the retailers of timepieces who cater almost exclusively for those customers – mostly men – who must be described as horophiles. Frost in Bond Street, which opened in early 2009 specialises in limited edition and limited production line premium global brands – such as Snyper and Artya – and has a regular client base looking for different

Feature | models, for different occasions, to add to their collections. And barely two doors away, there’s the recently opened Kronometry 1999, the first UK branch of a French watch gallery that also targets the avid (obsessive) collector looking for niche brands, such as Bell & Ross, DeWitt and Ulysse Nardin.

Both emporiums steer clear of the recognisable and ubiquitous watch brands, but at the same time offer a died-andgone-to-heaven experience for those looking for anything new, innovative, high-spec or mind-bogglingly expensive! Their almost exhibition-like approach to selling watches is obviously quite unlike that of most jewellers (and the stock rather more elitist) but the look, ambience, display and enthusiasm displayed is inspirational nonetheless.

ICW – Oasis

Service with a Smile

“Just placing the watches in a showcase is no longer enough to sell them. Consumers are very demanding – they want to know what the benefits are, the strengths.”

Knowledge is Power “There’s no secret to selling watches,” says Dino D’Auria, manager and co-founder of Frost, “it’s just a matter of knowing our products, knowing our clients and being passionate about what we do.” The passion, many suppliers as well as retailers would argue, will stem from being immersed in the product, and in the view of Hanspeter Hanschick, vice president of Swarovki Watches, “will, as a result, be reflected in display, staff attitude and… sales”.

“It’s important that the retailer likes the watches he sells; this passion must be transmitted to the final consumer,” adds Darren McCormick, managing director of DMJ, distributor of Glam Rock watches. “Just placing the watches in a showcase is no longer enough to sell them. Consumers are very demanding – they want to know what the benefits are, the strengths. Retailers need to be ready to explain the products and promote them with enthusiasm.”

Jacqueline Poole, brand marketing manager of ICW-Watches (Police, Oasis, French Connection, Firetrap etc) is of the same view: “Learn to understand a brand’s heritage and culture and think about the whole picture, rather than just the watch,”

Casio, “even if it is just to help them feel more confident to handle and sell them.

However, developing knowledgeable sales staff is a joint responsibility between the retailer and the manufacturer.” Casio, like many watch suppliers continually looks for ways to improve staff training.

“The best retailers are the ones who know well the different brands and what each model has to offer,” agrees Passariello.

“A retailer is the advisor to the customer and as such should position himself as the expert. While it’s true that now we have lots of information – on the internet for example – the personal moment and the personal advice of the retailer remains key,” he adds.

she advises. “Jewellers and specialist watch retailers tend to have well-trained staff, although extra training can never hurt – the more knowledge staff have, the easier it is to sell,” says Missy Pentney, marketing and brand manager of Globe Imports (Camel Active and Luminox among others). “It might be difficult, but it’s essential for sales staff to build up knowledge on all their products,” agrees Tim Gould, marketing manager at Alessandro Baldieri

Watch and jewellery retailer John Henn of TA Henn in Wolverhampton sees service – and after-sales service in particular – as absolutely essential. “We can make a client for life if a problem is handled correctly and for that we need to be able to trust the service centre,” he says. Without the bells and whistles associated with fashion, and the fanfare that accompanies big brands, the issue of service might seem a little like an also-ran when it comes to increasing sales of watches. And, as Pentney points out, “the UK isn’t well known around the globe for this”. But clearly it’s as important an element as choice of brands and styles and creative, imaginative display.

“If a shop offers good service then it will be remembered by customers, but they will remember bad service even more and tell other people about it,” warns Pater Tales, industry consultant to the British Horological Institute. “Retailers can do a lot more to help themselves – it’s very expensive to send repairs to manufacturers for instance – which is why the BHI is offering seminars and courses for watch retailers, introducing the technical and practical elements of sales. Better customer service means better customer retention,” he adds.

Show Off Whether it’s a question of window display, point of sale or promotion, the consensus among suppliers is that jewellery retailers need to think creatively for ways to increase sales. “Research shows that at least 80 per cent of the purchase decision is made at the

The Voice of the Industry 45

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| Feature window – therefore it is essential that the displays always look 100 per cent,” says Gould. “In a busy shop this can be very difficult to do, as the product is frequently going in and out of the window, but it is in these shops that the [window display] is even more important as a sales assistant is likely to be tied up with customers – leaving other customers to spend longer at the window.”

The internet is also an obvious route to increased sales. “Jewellers should get more creative with their on-line retail,” says Neil Duckworth of Technomarine watches. “This is a huge area with many retailers failing to maximise its potential.” Pentney agrees: “Retailers would be smart to invest in very well-developed websites that feature excellent images, easy-to-use navigation, strong branding and secure payment functions,” she advises.

A Left Field Approach A further way to improve watch sales, would be to take a leaf from the dedicated watch boutique’s book, and dare to be distinctive with brand choice. “Many watch retailers are afraid to try something different that could improve their sales target,” says Alessandro Baldieri, the Italian designer behind a new collection of eponymous watches. “It’s very hard to find good-looking watches between £250 and £500 and when they do see it, most jewellers are afraid to [buy].”

Which, in the view of Paul Harry, sales and marketing director of Peers Hardy (Ice-Watch, BCBG MaxAzria, Kenneth Cole etc) might be missing a trick. “For independents it’s very hard to compete with the nationals who Casio G-Shock

46 The Jeweller June 2010

In McCabe’s opinion, jewellery retailers recognise that the current fashion trends dictate sales. “With Guess being a lifestyle name, the watches are not only fashionable, but also are a way for consumers to buy into a brand,” she explains.

It’s a Girl Thing Tateossian

carry such a wide selection of brands, and, in almost every case, healthy stocks, regardless of the time of year,” he says. “Independents need to recreate that model and ensure the customer has choice – a couple of brands not readily available on every high street would also give them the edge”.

Graham Woods of GK Woods, distributor of Vabene watches feels that while it’s clear that fashion brands are “big sellers at present”, jewellery retailers appear to be rather slow on the uptake of them. “It seems that it is very difficult for someone who is, or has been, in fine jewellery and watches, to understand the fashion market,” he says.

“To stock Patek on the one hand and a plastic watch on the other, takes time to get

Until fairly recently it was considered that the surefire way to interest a woman in a watch was to make it pink and sprinkle a few crystals (or diamonds, if daddy’s rich) over it. Well, that did the trick for a while, and it’s still a popular look for the more girlie fashionistas, but the word from the premium end of the market – as discussed in a recent feature in The Times Luxx magazine – is that more women are choosing serious, masculine styles and that while aesthetics are (obviously) important, so is the technical stuff.

It’s a trend that is filtering down to the fashion sector of the market. “The large boyfriend style watch, whether with a metal or leather strap, is still a leading trend among women today,” says McCabe – a move that is backed up by a.b.art watches and Rotary. “According to a recent YouGov survey, female consumers that are usually considered to be somewhat

“Customers expect technical expertise and quality, but also demand that watches look great and modern. It’s important to offer a variety of styles to fit a contemporary lifestyle.” one’s head around. It could be likened to selling diamonds and cubic zirconium side by side. The difference is that the consumer market is driven by fashion. Vabene’s average customer already has a Chopard or Cartier and wants something to play tennis in or wear with jeans and T-shirt. Vabene watches are funky and edgy – a fashion statement,” he adds.

Unsurprisingly, watches by Thomas Sabo are also regarded in the same way. “Style is an important element for any accessory and [our watch] collection has as much design imput as our sterling silver jewellery and the two fit very well together,” explains Schlüter.

“Customers expect technical expertise and quality, but also demand that watches look great and modern. They are after individuality and it’s important to offer a variety of styles to fit a contemporary lifestyle.”

frivolous, are now adopting the shopping habits of men and investing in brands that have a history and a solid reputation,” says Abbi Holland, senior brand manager at the Dreyfuss Group. “This year Rotary’s ladies’ watches are very much more delicate and we’re seeing a return to ‘dress’ watches with smaller cases.”

And whether it’s for men or women, Elizabeth Galton, creative director at Links of London sees “the end of the era for the oversize and sometimes ridiculous chunky watches” and a return to “slim elegance [with] ultra slim cases and a more acceptable diameter.”

“Diamonds around the bezel will stay – jewellery with a time-keeping element attached, but women now want more elegance and less brashness,” adds McGillivray of Edox.

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For all enquiries please contact Inter City Group. Phone: 0121 436 1200, email: rebecca-willoughby@icw-watches.co.uk

| Feature

Kenneth Cole

Glam Rock Taking inspiration from the fashion world, Glam Rock – the ‘couturier of horology’ with prices ranging from £600 to £20,000 – reinterprets them with its own details and personality. Interchangeable case covers and straps allow even more style flexibility for women who regard watches as accessories. In this instance we’re talking luxury accessory – where fashion meets high quality manufacture and the use of unexpected mixes of materials: gemstones and duramets, silicon and diamonds, ceramics and enamel etc.

a.b.art (see top image page 44) Defined by their clean, uncluttered look, a.b.art watches combine Swiss engineering with contemporary, urban styling. Included in the new and recently extended PVD collection is the OC150 chronograph with its black dial with red hands and batons.

With a sapphire crystal and quartz movement, the watch is also water resistant. With supersize black, white or silver dial, the handwound MM Series offers retro-style clarity for a new generation of watch lovers.

D&G Time Classic pieces with a contemporary twist, the D&G 2010 collection includes Anchor – masculine watches with oversized steel cases and leather straps, Carson – a sportier style with equally large dial complemented by a urethane strap and the Jesse J tortoiseshell model.

Brand Directions Vabene Inspired by the phrase meaning ‘okay’ or ‘that’s fine’, this Italian watch brand is an expression of fun, fashion and art and was launched during Milan Fashion Week in 2006

by Giorgio Grimoldi. His family has a longstanding heritage of high-end watch making and traditional jewellery craftsmanship – the Grimoldi flagship store is a Milanese landmark. The Vabene watch collection is run like a pret-a-porter brand, with continuous new designs that are at the cutting edge of fashion and change every season. Square, oval and oblong faces; mixtures of plastic, silicon, stainless steel, leather and silk and Swarovski crystal embellishments are key trends in the 2010 collection.

Tips for improving watch sales ICW-Watches (see also top image page 45) New materials – leather, metal and rubber together and plastic – as well as bold colours and details are the key directions for brands such as Oasis, Police, Firetrap and French Connection. Add to this vintage styling, antique effects, stone-set styles and slightly smaller cases (although over-sizing is still popular for women’s watches) and all the important trend directions are covered.

48 The Jeweller June 2010

• Don’t be afraid to try something different – a couple of brands not readily available on the high street would give you the edge.

• Have a clear and streamlined offer.

• Learn about the heritage and culture behind each of your brands.

• Have a passion for the product (and watches in general) – it will reflect in display as well as staff knowledge.

• Have a dedicated and well-trained work force for watches and let staff wear the watches.

• Have a good selection of watches with frequent injections of newness.

• Focus on friendly, helpful customer service.

• Invest in a well-developed website with good images.

• Advertise locally.

• Create strong POS with a creative design service.

• Work closely with your supply partners to invest in the correct stock SKUs and levels.

• Have a USP – choice, service, value-for-money or the latest trends.

• Think creatively about display – windows need to be eye-catching.

• Consider social media sites for marketing.

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For all enquiries please contact Inter City Group. Phone: 0121 436 1200. E-mail: rebecca-willoughby@icw-watches.co.uk

| Feature

ck Watch With its movement housed in a stainless steel case finished in mineral glass (allowing the wearer to see through the left or right side) this ck Glam watch is all about clean, simple design. The central dial gives the illusion of the strap (also available in beige or pale grey satin) coming under the glass.

Storm There’s fun – bright shades together with plastic and enamel – and then there’s fun with added va-va-voom.

The new Vesta watches

by Storm are available with a decadent touch of gold or silver trim or, for more dazzle, the option of a crystal-encrusted bezel. For tastes that veer towards the more serious, there’s Heron – a more practical watch in black, silver or slate, featuring a date function and water resistant to 50m.

BCBG MaxAzria (see bottom image page 44) Last month, the American designer-to-thestars Max Azria opened his first UK store – BCBG MaxAzria – in London, and the move has drawn attention to his watch collection, which was launched here last year.

With another 59 doors planned for the UK and strong marketing campaigns in style magazines like Vogue and Grazia, consumer demand for the quintessentially feminine, high-fashion watches promises to grow.

50 The Jeweller June 2010

ICE-Watch Ten different collections were launched by Ice-Watch, and, as ever, in a spectrum of bright and bold colours – from neon yellow to deep purple.

Oversizing continues to be a popular feature of the line and taken to extremes with the 53mm face of the XXL watch, which features a white silicon strap with a rose gold finish, or black strap with gunmetal. A more muted, autumnal range of tones define the new Winter line, while the Metallics feature leather straps finished in shiny metallic colours – including antique or polished silver, as well as yellow and rose gold, with dial and bezel to match.

Watch Styles • Vintage, heritage, retro • Colour – hot brights • Colour – neutral, berry and autumnal tones • Colour – black on black • Colour – white with rose gold • Oversizing continues… … but smaller faces and slimmer cases emerging • New materials – ceramic, rubber, plastic, silk, enamel, polycarbonate, silicon • Square and oblong faces • Military details (inspired by, or authentic) • Crystal and gem embellishment • Return to smaller cases and more delicate details for ladies’ dress watches • Simple, plain faces

Thomas Sabo Linked closely with fashion trends, Thomas Sabo’s latest watch collection features strong directional colours like orange, fuchsia and aqua – with more muted shades, such as chocolate brown, coming in for autumn.

Large cases, square cases, ceramics and all-black watches are also important looks for 2010.

Swarovski Stainless steel, rubber, precious metals and crystal mesh are among the disparate materials that have been used in the new watch collection. The Rock & Light Limited Edition 2010 model combines crystal and diamonds. Elsewhere in the line, directional colours – prune, red, orange and aqua – as well as oversized or, conversely, rather small designs are key.

Links

Feature | Camel Active The Black Cruiser by Camel Active has been created to complement the image and lifestyle of this ‘great outdoors’ brand. The watch features a brushed back stainless steel case with either a black carbon or black leather strap with contrast stitching. The Swiss-made watch collection features a mix of tradition, hi-tech innovation and urban styling.

Casio’s G-Shock/Baby-G (see bottom image page 46) The tough, shock-resistant watches that were first launched in 1983 continue to cover fresh ground with a new array of style and colour updates on the original. Retro designs, big faces and hot (as well as autumnal) colours are big news for the brand.

Fortis Sleek, dark and handsome, the B-52 Black Black by Fortis features numbers and indices coated with Superluminova black fluorescent material, together with clearly visible hands and a luminous dot on the bezel. The divers’ turning bezel has a 60-minute scale and the PVD black finished titanium case houses a Swiss automatic movement. Completed by a leather or rubber strap. ¯

D&G Hoopla

The Voice of the Industry 51

For all enquiries and further information on Ben Sherman watches please contact Inter City Group.

Phone: 0121 436 1200. E-mail: paul-nolan@icw-watches.co.uk

Feature | Guess Eye-popping colours taken from the catwalk for the durable, polycarbonate bracelets are the key features of the new Prism watch collection by Guess. With either rose gold or stainless steel bezel, the watch is also encrusted with Swarovski crystals.

Timex The new Timex Expedition WS4 Camo is named for its signature widescreen display and for outdoor functions – altometer, barometer, thermometer and compass. The technology is sealed in a lightweight composite casing and strengthened with a stainless steel bezel. initially launched in 2009 in bold colours, the collection has expanded to include an elastic strap and now two new camouflage colours. Also introduced this year is Timex Originals – vintage-inspired models, from a pocket watch to a ’70s Q electric watch.

Two different styles from Bell & Ross

Technomarine New to the Cruise collection is Night Vision – a full black model highlighted by coloured luminous dials for legibility in the dark or underwater.

The soft-to-the-touch silicon strap has been

Watch Data • In 2008 the UK watch market was estimated to be worth £880m – up by 14% in real terms on 2003, according to Mintel • The research company also predicted that “any potential loss in volume will be more than off-set by value growth as design, quality, image, prestige and desirability take on a greater importance in addition to simple functioanality.”

• In 2008 Mintel also noted that the two key trends in distribution were “the growing importance of the internet and the shift upmarket” • According to GfK Retail and Technology UK, sales of watches in the first quarter of 2010 saw an increase when compared to the same period in 2009. Volume was up from 1.6m units to 1.8m – a 9.4% increase.

• However, this was not translated in value terms with the market down by 1.8% to £131.8m.

• Jewellers (as well as department stores) saw like for like sales remain similar to last year.

• Men’s watches continue to drive greater market value than ladies’ watches, with sales on average worth 60% of the total market each period (this figure evens out slightly over Christmas).

• Men’s watches in Q1 of 2010 had an average retail price of £124 – £74 higher than for a ladies’ watch.

• Nearly 25% of all brands available in the UK are associated with a fashion label and this equates to 22% of the total market value each period.

• While leather and metal dominate strap types, there has been a strong increase in ‘other straps’ in new materials – which are now worth £23.5m during Q1 2010.

designed for comfort as well as style.

Elsewhere in the Technomarine line: bright colours as well as graphic black and white.

Tateossian (see top image page 46) The Eclipse is the latest edition to Tateossian’s watch collection. It features a dual-time retrogrape mechanism, rose gold detail on the face and an Italian leather strap.

Fossil Vintage aviation instruments and the spirit of exploration have inspired the men’s collection by Fossil, which offers sporty looks with analog or digital movements, as well as an updated Decker watch with stainless steel mesh or black resin strap. The same trends can be found in the women’s line – I but with a touch of sparkle.

The Voice of the Industry 53

| NAG Survey

Right to Reply In last month’s issue of The Jeweller we published the results of a survey conducted by the NAG on the subject of the bead and charm phenomenon. The findings were revealing… to say the least. Among the concerns and issues that were thrown up, one company in particular – Pandora – received its fair share of heavy criticism. In the interests of balance and fair play, and because certain questions needs answers, we have invited the company’s UK managing director, Peter Andersen, to comment on the accusations leveled at his business.

Were you surprised at the level of feeling that exists among some of your customers?

We’ve been in the market for 18 months – we know lots of things had to be done.

Distribution was not what we had expected – or hoped – it would be. When we inherited Pandora we had to have a vision and we decided to build a brand. It was my idea to create our own environment; sometimes you have to make unpopular choices. Some people are not ready to go down that alley.

The charm survey published in May’s issue of The Jeweller

Can you explain why delivery problems have occurred?

Pandora has grown massively and while we have a nine-fold on intake on product since January 2009, the demand has grown 18-fold. I’d love to supply everyone with the product that they want, but sometimes the consumers just have to wait for it.

54 The Jeweller June 2010

We have tried – and done a lot – to live up to the demand.

What about late deliveries, ‘missing’ orders, accounting anomalies?

And how are you putting things right?

Our area managers and customer service have taken a lot of hassle – some of it rightly and some undeservedly. We cannot fulfill all our orders, which is why we’ve said goodbye to some customers. We need to change our approach to our partners – fulfill their orders but maybe have fewer customers.

I admit that for 10 to 12 months we made way too many mistakes in the distribution centre. The system was not able to work with the amount of orders we got in.

We were hindered by working with such a big back order and so we had to ask customers to re-order. We now have a new system which scans and packs straight away and is done automatically. It’s taken away the problems and complaints have gone down.

We need to change our approach to our partners – fulfill their orders but maybe have fewer customers.

What is your reaction to the accusation of poor customer service?

Until now, we have had too few people in customer services and therefore were not giving the right answers constantly. Also, on average we get 1,200 calls a week, 800 of which I would estimate to be product-related.

I’m not complaining about the number – I’m loving it. Not many new companies have that number – most are chasing business.

As of the third quarter of this year we will get a lot of extra capacity from the factory, which should solve a lot of these issues.

We can then spend more time dealing with the 400 other calls. We need to get better at handling the calls.

I do regret that we have not been good enough at explaining to partners what we are doing.

Another solution is that we have taken on a sales director – Jesper Ingo – who will be out in the market every day and therefore much more accessible and visual than I am.

We have also strengthened our team, with two more area managers and six more visual merchandisers, so it will be much easier to stay in touch with our partners.

Also, we will be working with an external training company to turn any negative energy into positive energy. I would like everyone to remember – partners and team – that we are all part of a massive success story.

NAG Survey | Can you comment on the criticism that Pandora is ‘dictatorial’ and ‘changes the ground rules’?

We haven’t changed our trading terms, but we have upped the requirement of when a partner can be classed Silver, Gold or Shop-in-Shop. All our area managers have been out there talking to partners and everyone has been given an equal opportunity to change their situation. But I do regret that we have not been good enough at explaining to partners what we are doing. Jesper and I are going on a tour so that we can have meetings with partners and they can discuss their frustrations.

From the 1st September 2010 all stockists must have Pandora furniture. We appreciate that not every UK jeweller has the space, the want or the need. It is also the case that we cannot take orders over the phone – but they can be taken online. Only the Pandora shops are required to have the Bransom system – Gold and Silver partners can use whatever system they like.

If you don’t have a brand, you don’t have anything. A brand is what the consumer wants and we need to give it to them.

Almost half of the respondees felt that the bead and charm trend will last another one to two years. What is your view?

I find it so funny that some people have said that the bubble will burst. We know that bubbles burst, but I don’t see this as a bubble. We have a trend, we have developed it and I don’t foresee any changes of trend. Our collection in the US has been riding on a high for the past seven years and it is growing tremendously. I don’t see any changes in the UK – particularly since we keep investing in a product mix as well as in the product team in Denmark.

Any further comments on the level of feelings expressed?

The worst word used against us was ‘arrogant’. That’s not how I am – it’s not me. I’m not here to win popularity contests… and clearly I’m not doing that. But my only disappointment is that some of our very happy partners didn’t respond. Beads and charms are not such a bad thing for the industry. The last two years have been a very tough time and the jewellery industry has not escaped the recession. The charm phenomenon has offered something new and helped many to survive.

The UK market is so brand-driven, but the jewellery industry is more about product. But in my view the brand is king – if you don’t have a brand, you don’t have anything. A brand is what the consumer wants and we need to give it to them. Pandora spends more than anyone in the UK reaching the consumer – and the consumer needs to believe in the brand. We need to help the retailer to explain to their customers that [an order] will be there in one to two weeks, not days.

The most important thing I want to say is that the way we see the brand going forward is by working with our partners and having fewer partners, that we treat better. Pandora’s mission is to be the most recognised and most loved brand in the world… once a customer has been turned into partner, and a partner into a relationship, then my job is done as the product will take care of itself”.

The Voice of the Industry 55

Get knotted!

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Photography Kaylie Mountford

| Industry Update London company Kelshna will be showing its popular Knot Collection incorporating glass simulated pearls and crystal beads.

Available in five floral colourways – ‘Pansy’, ‘Delphinium’, ‘Black Iris’, ‘Lily’ and ‘Vintage Lupin’ – the line consists of necklaces, bracelets and matching single simulated pearl drop earrings. RRPs are between £85-£90 for the necklaces and £55-£65 for the bracelets. (Stand QS116)

Summertime Specials Home & Gift in Harrogate (18th-21st July, 2010) attracts an ever-increasing number of jewellery exhibitors, many of whom are members of the BJA. Here is an edited highlight of the very diverse range of products that will be on show in this attractive spa town this summer.

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Back to the Stone Age

Brand new for Home & Gift, Midhaven introduces ‘Stone Age Natural’ a range of inexpensive real stone necklet, earring and braclet sets in a range of colours. The suite pictured in onyx and silver has a RRP of £39.60 (necklet) £19.60 (bracelet) and £11.50 (ring). (Stand C37)

Join the Jet Set

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This elegant jet and silver drop pendant is part of a new pendant collection to be launched at this year’s show by C W Sellors.

Pieces are available in either large or small options and RRPs are £395.00 and £149 respectively. (Stand C12)

56 The Jeweller June 2010

Truth be Told

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Those who like brightly-coloured, sparkling jewellery will love Truth from Paul Kennedy.

Following hotly on its Charm collection Truth now launches ‘Keepsakes’ – messages of affection, to be worn either on a Truth bracelet or kept in a purse. RRPs: £20-£30 (Stand C24)

The Birds and the Bees

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Scottish designer, Linda Macdonald returns to Home & Gift with four new collections for summer 2010 including ‘The Birds and Bees’, a charmingly naive range in silver with 9ct yellow gold details. The pendant featured has a RRP of £90. (Stand DP1-71)

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| Opinion : John Henn

Amélie (aged five weeks) pulls off the sale of the night John Henn ponders enrolling his (newborn) daughter into the family business; the vagaries of modern technology and a challenge for charity. e were double-booked with an event at another car club when a longstanding black tie dinner for a certain luxury Italian marque’s Spring Ball arrived in our calendar. So the plan was that Paul, my watch manager, would stay in Wolverhampton while I’d go south with my wife Magali. Being new to fatherhood I said we would leave baby Amélie and the dog (they now come as a package) with my parents. I failed to consider the ten hour round trip as a problem until Magali pointed out that it would be difficult for her to feed Amélie from 90 miles away.

Decision made, baby would come too, and sleep behind the beautiful jewellery – the outcome would be left to fate.

This particular event has a thirty-five minute window for sales, after which the drawing room is left with only us and the empty glasses, as the guests move through to their dinner. It is a bit like that extreme fishing programme, where a great deal of preparation is made for a moment of intense opportunity. Tonight would be no exception! Every one of the guests owned at least one of these cars – some have confessed to being serial offenders owning a number.

W

convenient to the prospective client, who must have been a little suspicious of my motives until Magali arrived looking gorgeous wearing said necklace, and also sporting the ring.

We were rolling, but the lady’s eye was then taken with some fashion jewellery – behind which was the pram. She, it turned out had no children, and Amélie, sleeping, was introduced. I continued to chat to her ‘partner’ about other things and the relationship blossomed. Amélie was on a roll – a gurgle came out and everybody smiled.

He picked up the earrings along with the costume jewellery and produced a Black American Express card. These cards weigh rather more than the average plastic card and come with no credit limit – you could buy a small economy with them. We hate them because of the charges, but hey I was not going to refuse it.

I should have been all smiles at this point, especially as he also took a pair of enamel cufflinks as an afterthought, but all I could see was that the O2 signal had just disappeared on my phone. Activate plan B! “Excuse me sir while I just go and find a signal for the authorisation” and I was gone. Magali was selling some more jewellery and I now

Plan ‘C’, was to abandon the authorisation and check with the organisers if this guy had ‘done time’ for card fraud.

I was advised that he could probably afford to buy Northamptonshire if he desired and that was enough for me.

We chatted with various clients we knew until a new couple approached the display.

I was on my own with my daughter as backup. I engaged them. A particular pair of earrings caught the lady’s eye (for she was a lady, not a shred of bad taste to be seen).

I explained that I liked the set so much I had given the necklace to my wife as an anniversary present. This seemed a little too

58 The Jeweller June 2010

had to find a signal for two transactions.

The front desk directed me to a strip of lawn outside the front door known for its O2 reception and if that failed I could go to the end of the drawing room (passing my client on the way) to the fireplace as ‘a signal had been found there earlier today’. Victor Meldrew came to mind as I pondered the absurd suggestion. ‘Can I use the house

phone?’ I asked. ‘Of course sir’. But after the receptionist had disappeared I discovered the system didn’t allow 0845 numbers to be dialled out and of course when he returned he didn’t know how to bypass the block. I had been away ten minutes.

Plan ‘C’, was to abandon the authorisation and check with the organisers if this guy had ‘done time’ for card fraud. I was advised that he could probably afford to buy Northamptonshire if he desired and that

was enough for me. The baby was given one last cuddle and after a couple of other sales were concluded, time was up. The flock of clients had passed and it was over.

Drained, we packed up and drove home via a drive-through McDonalds – a strange irony to have left such a feast to munch our way through a couple of McTasty’s with a chicken dipper chaser. Amélie was rewarded with extra milk and both mother and daughter were asleep before we joined the motorway. Does anybody know a cheap supplier of satellite phones? n another – and completely different – note, cancer has been raising its head rather close to home in our trade of late. It will probably kill most of us reading this article if the economy doesn’t do it sooner and I have been asked to scale Mont Blanc on skis to raise money for The Royal Marsden Cancer Hospital. The mountain at 4810m is Europe’s highest and how we are going to go about it can be read on my ‘just giving’ website: www.justgiving.com/JohnHenn-Mont-Blanc.

The expected date of the climb is 23rd of May. You will be reading this after this date but if you are able to spare a fiver or a little more for a clinic that just may reduce the odds a little, then your support would be much appreciated.

O

Greg Valerio discusses the arguments for and against the use of recycled gold and silver in the jewellery industry.

Gold nuggets Image: CRED Jewellery

To recycle or not to recycle – that is the question... he gap between fact and emotion is huge in the jewellery trade. It is one of the characteristics of our industry that in many respects remains unreconciled. There is no doubt in my mind that the rise in recent years of the ethical and fair trade jewellery debate has been largely due to the emotional and moral disconnection between source and finished product.

When it comes to filling this apparent void, there has been a rush of well-intentioned ideas and the use of recycled metals is very close to the top of many jewellers lists of actions that can be taken. In fact there are now a number of jewellery brands, as well as metal trade suppliers, claiming a strong responsible ethical message around the phrase ‘100 per cent recycled’.

From the outset I wish to be clear that I believe that using 100 per cent recycled metals in jewellery is a definite ethical improvement. Yet I am also of the opinion that it has a limited impact on ethical performance within the jewellery and broader metal trade.

T

60 The Jeweller June 2010

The process for scrapping gold and silver is well known within the industry. No jewellers worth their salt throw away scrap – they recycle the value through the refiner or bullion house. In many cases however, once that metal is scrapped it is then blended with fresh sources of metals so what comes to market as new metal can often be a mixture of recycled and new metal.

And the following statement from the Birmingham Assay Office confirms this: ‘Silver volumes exceeded gold by nearly 600,000 articles in the period, representing an unprecedented 58 per cent of articles hallmarked in the UK. Considering that silver items weighing less than 7.78 grams do not need to be hallmarked, the true amount of silver introduced to the market is

Large-scale mining employs the least number of people and drives over 80 per cent of the value, while small-scale mining employs the majority yet is left with the crumbs from the table.

Silver as a case study As the GFMS table opposite demonstrates, silver coming to market does so through a number of sources, primary mining, and as the principle by-product of gold, copper, lead and zinc mining. In fact only 28 per cent of silver that hit the world market in 2008 was from primary silver mines.

The rest (72 per cent) came through the secondary channels.

well in excess of this and the trend looks likely to continue’.

This recent increase in silver jewellery is being supplied not only from the recycled source but also from the secondary sources of silver like gold, lead and copper mining.

In essence what I am saying is that the demand for new metal coming into the supply chain outstrips the amount of silver being sold back in to the system through recycling.

Ethical Jeweller | This is also born out from figures in the UK industry for 2008 gold consumption.

The UK consumed 36 tonnes of gold of which 10 tonnes was recycled or scrap. Again the demand outstripped the recycling inputs.

Of course there seem to be many reasons why this is, given that many people rightly point out that there is enough metal above ground to cover off the total jewellery demand. I offer these few observations as to why recycling will only ever be a small part of the approach to improving the jewellery supply chain ethics: • People do not treat jewellery like tin cans. Many don’t recycle/scrap their jewellery as it is sentimental or is treated as investment. To scrap jewellery is in many respects like selling your future or your history – only something you do when you are extremely desperate.

• The way the financial markets are set up to speculate on the price of gold and other metals going up or down, means there is always investment money to be made on trades that act like a Hoover sucking all they can into the economy. This means new metal is always required. 2008 saw around 2600 tonnes of gold mined in one year.

• Given that the majority of people employed in mining are poor, small-scale miners, driven to work in very marginal circumstances, gold is cash in the ground that feeds families and pays rents.

I have always found fascinating to note that large-scale mining employs the least number of people and drives over 80 per cent of the value, while small-scale mining employs the majority yet is left with the crumbs from the table. The Old Testament prophets and the odd rock star would have a comment or two to make about this imbalance on the scales of justice.

In conclusion These simple facts alone have a huge influence on how far recycled metals can and will impact the overall ethical position of a piece of jewellery. Recycling certainly has value – it does not take any fresh metal from the ground – but it also does not challenge the overall economic structure that creates such a voracious appetite for

Silver Output by Source Metal (millions of ounces) 2007 output

% of total

2008 output

% of total

% change

Primary

194.1

29%

191.2

28%

-1%

Gold

60.7

9%

76.7

11%

3%

Lead/Zinc

234.9

35%

249.9

37%

6%

Copper

171.3

26%

159.6

23%

-7%

Other

3.3

0%

3.6

2%

9%

Total

664.2

680.9

4%

Source: GFMS

Demand for new metal coming into the supply chain outstrips the amount of silver being sold back in to the system through recycling.

new gold and has absolutely no impact on the poverty issues that drive people to small-scale mining.

In today’s current ethical landscape I believe the strongest ethical position that a jeweller or a brand can adopt is to use fair trade, independently certified sources wherever possible and in the absence of a source that meets that criteria to adopt recycling as a practice. In short: Recycling = good practice Recycling + fair trade = current best practice Amerika's mine, Tado, Columbia Image: Cred Jewellery

Greg Valerio greg@gregvalerio.com • www.blog.gregvalerio.com Greg is currently working with the Fairtrade Foundation on the market roll out for certified fairtrade and fairmined gold in the UK. Companies that supply recycled and/or certified fair trade metals to the UK market Hoover & Strong • CRED Sources Sources The Birmingham Assay Office UK hallmarking figures Jan to March 2010 www.theassayoffice.co.uk/uk_hallmarking_figures_trends.html The Silver Institute. World Silver Survey 2009 – A Summary

The Voice of the Industry 61

| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Books How the Watch was Worn – a fashion for 500 years, by Genevieve Cummins (£45, Antique Collectors’ Club) This is a beautiful tome for anyone who has a passion for horology and more than a passing interest in the history of fashion. On the premise that the watch was not only meant to function but also to be worn, the author has brought together the timepieces of the past 500 years and how the people who owned them used them as accessories. There are over 1,000 images – photographs, illustrations, portraits,

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs June 24th-27th: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Asia’s biggest mid-year jewellery event with over 1,000 exhibitors. http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com July 1st-4th: New Designers Show, Business Design Design Centre, Islington, London New Designers offers the best of graduate design talent, with the first of the two part event focussing on fashion and accessories, jewellery, precious metalwork, ceramics and glass. A satellite event, One Year On, showcases a select group of individual designermakers now in their first year of business.

Tel: 08701 222890 www.newdesigners.com 6th-7th: Jovella – Israel Intl. Jewellery Exhibition, Tel Aviv Fairgrounds, Tel-Aviv Israel’s leading jewellery industry showcase, combining contemporary and ancient as well as eastern and western pieces.

Tel: +972 3 562 60 90 www.stier.co.il

62 The Jeweller June 2010

advertisements – depicting every type of watch from fobs to ring and cufflink varieties.

It also sheds light on some terminology.

The Jewelry of Southeast Asia, by Anne Richter (£14.95, Thames & Hudson) Originally published in hardback 10 years ago, the author has updated her book with a new introduction on the historical background and has also concentrated on the 300 lavish colour images with their detailed captions. For collectors of Asian jewellery as well as contemporary jewellery designers seeking inspiration, there is every-

thing – from the simple adornments worn by remote hill people, to superb royal pieces in gold from Burma and Thailand.

Necklaces, pendants, ear ornaments, hair pins, anklets, torques and bracelets are all covered – shedding light on Asian culture and symbolism.

Under a Sapphire Sky, by Susannah Bates (£7.99, Arrow) If you’re looking for an absorbing (but not too challenging) summer holiday read, and, you just so happen to be studying gemstones (or maybe you work with them) this novel might well be up your street. The story centres around a jewellery designer and the creation of a ring using what might, or might not, be a padparasha. There are plenty of references to Hatton Garden workshops, gemstone lectures, mines, dealers, designing, selling, press shows and trade fairs and a smattering of romance (so it doesn’t feel too much like studying). Bates was inspired to write about the jewellery industry after having an engagement ring made and a later trip to Sri Lanka.

16th-19th: Beijing Intl. Jewellery Fair, China 400 exhibitors from China and over 25 countries and areas, showing an extensive variety of jewellery and stones.

Tel: +852 25615566 www.newayfairs.com

section of Pure London, featuring youthful creative fashion for men and women.

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7728 3961 www.purewomenswear.co.uk

18th-21st: Home & Gift Fair, Harrogate For the largest selection of gift product for Christmas from over 900 exhibitors. www.homeandgift.co.uk

June 11th-13th & 18th-20th: Cockpit Arts Summer Open Studios, Holborn & Deptford Around 165 designer-makers (jewellery, accessories, homeware). Including the work of award-winning jeweller Tania Clarke Hall, one of six makers chosen to create pieces for Bloom 2010, a project inspired by the Southbank Centre’s arts programme.

25th-28th: JA New York Summer Show, The Javits Centre, New York Discover the work of over 900 jewellery and luxury gift suppliers from around the world, plus designLAB. www.ja-newyork.com 29th-1st August: Singapore Intl Jewellery Show, Marina Bay Sands 150 global exhibitors showing jewellery, gemstones and accessories. www.sijs.com.sg August 1st - 3rd: Pure London, London Olympia Young fashion is represented in the Spirit

Sales & Exhibitions

Until December 2010: Up Close & Personal V&A, London (Room 116 - Metalware) A display of 11 personal objects, such as chatelaines, that were practical as well as decorative, sentimental or expensive.

22nd-26th Audemars Piguet, Past, Present & Future, Marcus Watches, London W1 A rare chance to see some of the finest pieces from the Audemars Piguet’s private museum in Geneva.

| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

w i t h

F e l l o w s

&

S o n s

Antique JEWELLERY Swiss made Ask most people what they know about Switzerland and watches and clocks will crop up in the conversation at some point.

But how did this middle European country become the industry’s centre of excellence in the first place? Jo Young explains. laces – from streets and cities to regions and whole countries – become known, over time, for being quirkily adept at producing particular things. Twas always thus. Keen sushi gourmands know that, for the real stuff, they need to head to Tokyo. In Ireland they’re proud of their stout, in Italy they’re a dab hand at fashion, while in France they reckon they can rustle up a decent cheese and a bread stick.

In Switzerland, they make timepieces. (As it happens – and as those of you who are Basel regulars will probably already know –

P

they do a rather good line in chocolates as well, but that’s a whole other gluttonous story. And those funny little knives apparently favoured by members of the Swiss armed forces we’ll leave for another time or another magazine).

Switzerland has, throughout living memory, been synonymous with fine watchmaking, and though a significant amount of impressive watch design and manufacturing is done elsewhere in the world, it still is today.

Switzerland remains the first port of call for

any serious watch collector. The words ‘Swiss Made’ on a watch are regarded by most people as a mark of quality and brand distinction – an indicator of a standard of workmanship that is arguably unmatched by any other nation. This is why the world’s major watchmaking showcase events are held each year in Basel and Geneva, attracting retailers and buyers, watch afficionados and journalists from all over the world, keen to see what the biggest and the best (and the very often Swiss) brand names have produced for their latest collections.

Calvinism So where did it all start? Well, the Swiss watch and clock industry was first established in Switzerland in Geneva, somewhere around the middle of the sixteenth century.

Somewhat bizarrely perhaps, the development of the industry came about largely as the result – or at least, as a bi-product – of religious and cultural oppression. As students of the religious history of the period will know, John Calvin (a resident of first Basel and then Geneva) was a highly influential Protestant reformer who lends his name to the Calvinist movement. In 1541, as part of a series of reforms that Calvin imposed upon the (possibly unimpressed) good people of Geneva, Calvin placed a ban on the wearing of jewellery, along with other adornments and decorations, including lace, which he also frowned upon. Little did Calvin realise at the time that his somewhat dour imperative would result in the birth of one of Switzerland’s major industries; nonetheless, what actually happened was that Genevan goldsmiths and jewellers (keen obviously not to go out of business) turned their skills to the different, independent and, importantly, approved craft of watchmaking.

Move to the Jura Having been forced away from jewellerymaking into this new direction, the Genevan craftspeople found that, happily, they were rather good at it. Their numbers were boosted by a large number of master watch and clock makers from among the the French Hugenot community, who were at the time encouraged by the ever-dictatorial Calvin to take refuge in the city. Their presence helped to turn Geneva into a renowned watchmaking centre, and by the

64 The Jeweller June 2010

Antique Jewellery | dawn of the new century, Geneva was already gaining a reputation for the quality of its watches. So much so that in 1601, the world’s first Watchmakers’ Guild was established in the city, and by the beginning of the following century, Geneva was positively awash with watchmakers. To avoid the steadily increasing cost and competition of working in Geneva itself, many watchmakers started to spread out: namely, into the Jura Mountains, the area in western Switzerland stretching from Geneva in the south to Basel in the north, which gradually became the centre of the watchmaking industry.

The spectacularly beautiful Jura mountains

Indeed, over the past 100 years, around 90 per cent of Swiss watches have been produced in this part of western Switzerland (known as the Arc Jurassien). As well as being an indisputable centre of watchmaking excellence, it is also – somewhat fortutitously for the Swiss tourist board – a spectacularly beautiful mountain region and, thanks to the canny (if perhaps somewhat unimaginative) tourism authorities, the region is today occasionally referred to as Watch Valley.

The watch revolutionary Back in the early days of Swiss watchmaking, a young goldsmith called Daniel Jeanrichard (1665-1741) made his name by effectively transforming the industry’s manufacturing practices. It was Jeanrichard who first introduced the division of labour that later became a standard of practice in the industry.

The story goes that, in 1690, a teenage Jeanrichard (whose name has since been resurrected as a watch brand) was asked by an English horse trader, passing through the area, to repair his watch. The young craftsman is said to have taken apart the watch and made intricate drawings of all the watch’s parts – luckily for the returning Englishman,

Breguet watch, 1785

he did put it back together afterwards…

Jeanrichard then used these drawings as a blueprint for teaching himself and his fellow Jura goldsmiths and watchmakers to manufacture the separate parts of a watch.

What Jeanrichard – who opened his own workshop near Le Locle in 1691, at the age of 19 – and his likeminded contemporaries effectively did was to defy the watchmaking guilds that controlled the watchmaking industry at this time. The guilds operated on a deliberately exclusive, smallscale footing, designed to protect their own power and restrict competition. The guilds’ watchmasters strenuously resisted any move to mechanisation of production, even going so far as to forbid the use of any tools that would aid mass production of watches. They employed only a small number of watchmaking apprentices, on poor pay and contractual terms, and all in all, ensured that production numbers were low, the quality was very high and the prices extremely prohibitive for all but the richest of potential customers.

Industrialisation Jeanrichard’s new ‘division of labour’ system – essentially one of the earliest systems of subcontracting, known as établissage – meant that local peasant farmers could be retrained to make watch components, each of them specialising in a different piece of the watch. He promoted the mechanisation of production and worked with toolmakers to produce new horological tools. Soon, over 100 entirely new specialist professions were born, with chain smiths, hinge makers, escapement adjusters and makers of pinions and keys setting up shop throughout the Jura region.

Understandably, Jeanrichard’s system was extremely popular with the Jura farmers, who had previously struggled terribly during the long winter months. Before too long, watch prices were brought down enormously, and Switzerland became established as the world centre for industrial watch production.

Jeanrichard himself, meanwhile, went on producing rather plain-looking watches, designed for their affordability; a few of these still survive in museums in Switzerland. He married and had five sons – touchingly enough, all five became watchmakers themselves.

Famous makers

Daniel Jeanrichard

Despite the importance of this first ‘pioneer’ group of watchmakers to the development and shaping of the industry, it was the next generation of Jura makers that gave us some of the names in Swiss watchmaking with which we are most familiar today – Abraham-Louis Perrelet, for example, who invented the ‘perpetual’, the forerunner of

The Voice of the Industry 65

¯

| Antique Jewellery the self-winding watch, and Abraham-Louis Breguet, who contributed hugely to the making of the modern watch. In 1842, Adrien Philippe, founder of Patek Philippe, invented pendant winding watches, and at the same time began producing complicated watches and other ‘special’ features like the perpetual calendar, chronographs and the fly-back hand.

Entering the 20th Century Mass production of watches in Switzerland began in earnest at the beginning of the 20th Century, thanks to yet further inventions and introductions by key watchmaking names like Georges Léchot and Frédéric Ingold, who pioneered interchangeability and invented the cutting wheel tool known as the Ingold mill.

At the end of the First World War, the wristwatch as an accessory reached a peak of popularity. In 1926, the first self-winding wristwatch was invented (by the Swiss, of course), and the first electrical watch was introduced in 1952. Interestingly, though, the design of wristwatches remained largely constant throughout the first several decades of the century – the traditional round shape was entirely dominant until the 1960s, when more experimental watch designs, shapes and fashions came to market.

Technical developments followed one after another in the latter half of the century. In 1967 the Beta 2.1, the world’s first quartz wristwatch, came into being, next followed LED and LCD displays, batteryless quartz watches and the growth in popularity of the plastic fashion watch in the 1980s, helped in no small measure by the birth of the Swatch empire.

The industry today To this day, Swiss watchmaking is regarded by many, if not most people as, simply, still the best. There is no doubt that one can buy equally well-made, equally beautiful, well designed and technically exceptional timepieces that are made elsewhere.

Nevertheless, in terms of the history behind the Swiss industry and the sheer scale of its innovation and its creativity, and despite the financial setbacks it has endured, the reputation inherent in those two small words, ‘Swiss Made’ looks likely to be secure long I into the future.

66 The Jeweller June 2010

Whittaker’s World “Well…at least it’s right twice a day!”

Or so somebody informed me recently when they showed me their late father’s ‘knackered’ wristwatch. Their perception was that because the watch was at best ‘tired’, that it was worthless – of course, this is not the case. The market for pre-owned watches has risen meteorically in the last two to three years – possibly because it is the major (and maybe only) item of ‘jewellery’ that many men own, and perhaps because the prices for modern brand name watches have also risen. The extensive marketing of luxury brand timepieces in glossy magazines has created an aspirational desire for high end watches and this has, of course, fuelled the demand for pre-owned watches as an affordable substitute. ‘Affordable’ is entirely relative – as I sit here writing this article I can only dream of owning one of the vintage Rolexes coming up in our July sale! And while this market may in the past have been the private domain of a select number of knowledgeable collectors, the internet has opened it up to a huge audience.

If you are thinking that the pre-owned watch market is a fantastic opportunity, you are absolutely right, but please beware – firstly, like all things mechanical they can break down so you need access to a good repairer and restorer, and secondly, the collectors will inevitably have forgotten more about their specialist field than you have learned – and won’t hesitate to point out your lack of knowledge! Good luck!

Stephen Whittaker is the Managing Partner of Fellows & Sons, specialist auctioneers of Jewellery, Silver, Watches and Fine Art based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. He can be contacted on 0121 212 2131 or stephen@fellows.co.uk

Fellows & Sons

(Est. 1876)

Forthcoming Auctions

• Secondhand Jewellery & Watches – Thursday 24th June, Thursday 8th & Thursday 22nd July • Antique & Modern Jewellery – Thursday 1st July • Wrist & Pocket Watches – Monday 5th July A catalogue is available at www.fellows.co.uk or by post.

Online bidding is available at www.invaluable.com/fellows For further information please call Heather Bailey on 0121 212 2131.

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NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

E

V

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W

IRV Email Group Round-up for the first quarter of 2010 (part 2) So many emails… so little space. Here are the messages we received during the first few months of 2010 that we couldn’t quite fit into last month’s issue.

Our old friends – diamonds The subject of diamonds appears regularly on the IRV Email Group menu. Recent offerings have included the ‘correct’ way to open the description of a modern piece of jewellery set with old-cut stones; values to place on treated diamonds, named-cut diamonds, and shall we say, the lower-end-of-the-scale large diamonds.

The consensus of opinion on the correct way to describe contemporary jewellery set with old-cut stones was to tell it as it is, i.e. modern mount set with old-cut diamonds

– because the piece is not exactly old and not exactly new. A rider explaining the situation in more detail should be added to either the schedule or the accompanying transmittal statement.

Some users mentioned that their valuation software package restricts such a description, but others were able to assure them that the software does allow the valuer to bypass the default settings. As one user pointed out, the software is there to use as a tool; it is not there to do the job for you – just to help.

Treated diamonds Next topic up for discussion – the treated diamonds. One user had a ring set with two diamonds, one white and one pink. Given the price paid in India for the ring, the user suspected the pink diamond may be irradiated. A fellow user recommended checking the diamond to see if it had been coated. The treating of diamonds now includes secondary and tertiary treatments and includes treating both synthetics and naturals; it’s a difficult, constantly changing arena, and the respondee said that it is not worth risking a valuer’s reputation over.

As nasty as the stone is, it is still surprising how much they can add up to and indeed sell for…

He also strongly advised against applying any description without a qualified expert gem lab certificate. To give an opinion based on anything else puts a valuer’s reputation at risk.

Large P3 diamond

See ‘Treated Diamonds’

68 The Jeweller June 2010

Another query involved the two carat plus diamonds, with inclusions big enough to see from the other side of the road!

One user had one such beauty in for valuation. It ‘leveridged’ at 2.36ct and as the accompanying illustration shows, the stone is basically one huge inclusion.

Having spoken with the user’s merchants who said that as P3 is the lowest clarity

IRV Review |

See ‘Large P3 Diamond’

grade, it would have to be described as such, but if they were selling it they would give a bigger discount than that grading.

Even taking the merchants’ guidelines into account the user still felt that the resulting value was too high.

NRV/SHRV depending on the item’s condition (the girdles on these diamonds seem to be prone to ‘crumbling’ after a while) with a rider stating that this type of item is not generally found within the high street market and sourcing a suitable/ comparable replacement stone may not be guaranteed.

Another user agreed that it sounded like a gem quality ‘rejection’ grade stone. But there is still the problem of how to value it.

A further Group user agreed with the term ‘rejection’, and said it was a label that they had applied many times in the past, after tactfully explaining to the client that the stone is ‘off the scale’ clarity-wise.

It’s a difficult, constantly changing arena, and the user said it is just not worth risking a valuer’s reputation over.

One reply suggested describing this type of material as “semi/sub-transparent”, with an appraiser’s note stating the stone as “excessively included and therefore the assessed grade falls outside/below the established range of clarity assessments used (for gem quality material)”.

The user had also found that a number of independent grading labs use a similar statement when asked to grade such a diamond.

It would appear that these diamonds are not as rare as one would imagine. This user had had a few of this type of stone to value in the last few years and they are always larger stones – generally 2.50ct–5.00ct range with clarity stated P2-P3. They appear to be industrial stones that have been facetted and tend to use that as a costing approach where possible. As nasty as the stone is, it is still surprising how much they can add up to and indeed sell for – often on the internet where they are represented by a somewhat “livelier” image.

Problems arise when it comes to replacement as most reputable merchants/ retailers will not touch material like this, which tends to limit replacement options somewhat. Assessing for a P2-P3 grade stone could effectively be a betterment/uplift and the valuer may still have a job finding one.

As much as it causes consternation, in this instance there could be a case for a Compensation Value. This user tends to do

As far as pricing goes, it may be argued that this type of piece wouldn’t tend to be sold on the high street, but by mail/internet marketing; consequently this source of replacement could be suggested.

And the moral of this story being, as always – dialogue!

Drilled diamonds A more recent enquiry has revolved around the relatively new idea of drilling right through diamonds to make a small hole so that they can be suspended from, say, a jump ring. One user had a cultured pearl and diamond pendant in for valuation and he was somewhat at a loss as to how to value the diamond.

Fellow users were able to refer him to a number of suppliers offering such diamonds with fetching adjectives such as ‘dancing’ or ‘scintillating’ diamonds!

Apparently many of the diamonds are ‘fixed’ to the jump ring by either careful laser welding or soldered on (with plenty of borax protecting the diamond). However, some hang freely. It will be interesting to see what affect the hardness of the diamond wearing upon the softer metal of the jump ring from which they are suspended will have – time will tell. As one user said, how long will it be before the diamond makes a dash for freedom!

As to valuing the diamond, it is not possible to give the stone a traditional grading and on the whole valuers regard these stones as they would a laser drilled/infilled diamond and value them accordingly. As to the quality of the diamond before it was drilled, that is anyone’s guess.

A gem valuing course For those valuers who fancy brushing up on their gem value knowledge one Group user highly recommends Eric Emms & Tracy Jukes’ one-day Gem Quality & Values Workshop.

The next one takes place in London on 5th July. For full details visit Eric’s website at www.ericemms.com

See ‘Drilled Diamonds’

Could you help any of the Group members who put forward requests for help? Or do you wish you knew who to talk to about items which you don’t see that often?

If you haven’t already joined the NAG IRV Email Group why not do so today?

Email Sandra on: irv@jewellers-online.org The rest is simple – email her your query (preferably with digital images, if applicable), she will forward them to the rest of the Group and any replies she receives are also forwarded to the Group. (There’s no charge for joining, just be prepared to receive lots of emails!)

The Voice of the Industry 69

THE CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS ARE TOO LATE....

....TO START TRAINING YOUR STAFF START NOW TO SQUEEZE EVERY DROP OUT OF THE FESTIVE SEASON A student who enrols on the first part of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma now could have finished by this Christmas and could have passed JET 2 and mastered all the practical skills that a retail jeweller requires by next Christmas.

OUR CONTACT DETAILS The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Email: jet@jewellers-online.org Tel: 020 7613 4445 (Option 1) Download a JET Course prospectus at www.jewellers-online.org

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NAG celebrates 65 years of education and training While much has changed in the retail jewellery industry over the last 65 years, one aspect has remained constant: the demand for the NAG’s education and training.

hen, then Education Committee chairman, Mr T P Cuss launched the NAG’s first correspondence training course in 1945 for retail jewellers he “had expected 25 to 50 entrants”, but he was “almost embarrassed with an enrolment of 180.” Sixty-five years on and enrolments for the NAG’s professional diplomas regularly exceed 1,200 a year.

In the meantime, over 27,000 education and training courses have been taken through the NAG in one form or another.

So, what is it that makes the JET courses so enduring? The NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare believes it is the way that they have developed that has kept them so popular.

“Today, jewellers are contending with the internet, improved visual merchandising,

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higher customer expectations and an everchanging population. Our training not only reflects this, but also takes into account the differences in the way in which people study and the way in which we provide training.”

Remarkably, the need for training seems to have changed little in 65 years. When Mr. Cuss announced the introduction of a new correspondence training course in May 1945, he suggested “superior service to the public was [the jeweller’s] main line of defence against the co-operative societies.

Service could only come from knowledge.

This kind of knowledge their correspondence papers attempted to give.” In 2010, the NAG’s Education and Training Manager Victoria Wingate asserts: “the NAG distance

D E PA RTM E NT learning courses will build staff confidence, develop their selling skills and product knowledge and will ultimately put money in the till.”

But, while the reasons for training have remained constant, the way in which it is delivered has changed significantly. In 1945, NAG students were sent their training papers every two weeks and were then returned for marking by Mr Cuss himself. The initial surplus in demand obviously meant that another tutor was eventually appointed.

Currently, students are sent their study pack upon registration, followed by an assignment schedule to work to from their personal tutor. Students then have the choice to post assignments back to their tutor or email them directly. However, this system also looks set to change later this year, with the introduction of online courses.

“The success of our online students’ group clearly shows an adjustment in the way that students want to learn”, says Wingate. “They want immediate access to information and support, so the logical next step for us is to place our courses online, which we plan to do in the autumn.

The challenge will be to provide quick, effective, relevant online training, while

Candidates sitting NAG exams in July 1946

maintaining the high academic standards for which we are known," she adds.

Not surprisingly, substantial changes have also been made to course content over the last six decades, which may also explain the JET courses’ durability. “It is vital that the information within the courses is appropriate and pertinent to today’s retailer,” clarifies Wingate. “The requirements and

The Voice of the Industry 71

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| Education + Training

NAG images this page from The Watchmaker, Jeweller and Silversmith magazine (1945-1980)

needs of a jeweller in 1945 are very different to today.” Courses are therefore updated regularly. The Professional Jewellers’ Diploma was re-launched last September, for example, with revised content and new look material.

Currently, the Professional Jewellers’ Valuation Diploma is being re-evaluated by a working party of industry professionals.

“While 100 per cent of graduates would recommend the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma to a colleague, we were only getting satisfactory comments for the valuation course,” admits Michael Hoare. “In order to maintain value for money and industry appropriateness we are looking at the entire set up of the course. We are now contemplating a ‘pick and mix’ approach to learning that would allow greater emphasis on students’ weaker areas, more opportunity to brush up on practical skills or the option to move straight to the exam, which would appear to fit in better with the needs of students and the industry”.

Addressing the needs of both the student and the industry must also account for much of the Association’s education and training past and future successes. The Institute of Registered Valuers was launched in 2008 in order to promote professionalism among valuers following a perceived growth in demand for valuations; the increasing influence of insurance companies on the industry and a need for reassurance that valuations are being undertaken by valuers who can be trusted. Similarly, Mike McGraw of Development Initiatives Ltd was asked to

72 The Jeweller June 2010

“[Jet Pro] should be seen as both an extension of JET 1 and JET 2 and also as a stand-alone suite of modules devoted to specific skills and disciplines.”

consider ‘a perceived need to build upon the successes of JET 1 and JET 2 and also to move the training into business management issues.’ The result is the development of a new course – JET Pro – to be launched later this year.

“JET Pro is the working title for a third element of training aimed at developing experienced staff in essential business skills,” says McGraw. “Importantly, it should be seen as both an extension of JET 1 and JET 2 and also as a stand-alone suite of modules devoted to specific skills and disciplines.”

Interestingly, McGraw and Mr Cuss’ training programmes target the same group.

“The main targets [of JET Pro] are managers, assistant managers and senior supervisors and will be in part, or in whole, appropriate to independents and multiples,” recommends McGraw. Back in 1945, Mr Cuss argued, “the Association should attempt the education of trade personnel. That included the principals, because unless they saw the light themselves, they could hardly pass it on and encourage their staffs”.

Unlike Mr Cuss however, McGraw suggests looking beyond the jewellery trade for inspiration. “The two overriding requirements for training and educating of future and existing jewellers are, firstly, an understanding of how a modern retail business works i.e. its main commercial levers, profit management and management processes,” he explains. “Secondly, the ability and willingness to look wider than just the jewellery sector and take ideas and best practise from a wide range of activity.”

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The Voice of the Industry 73

| Education + Training

NAG and Bransom to launch new JET 1 project award he NAG is to launch a new JET 1 Project Award in association with Bransom Retail Systems at this month’s AGM. Each month, the best final JET 1 assignment will be chosen and the winner will receive a certificate courtesy of Bransom, as well as an invitation to the NAG’s prestigious Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall, not normally open to JET 1 students. The winner will also feature in The Jeweller.

“We wanted to get involved because we believe in education and supporting the next generation of jewellery professionals,” said Chris Garland of Bransom. “By encouraging the best performers we hope it will raise the overall level of achievement and final grades.

Bransom strives to provide the highest level of Training & Support as part of its stock management system which is a key factor in our continued success. Therefore it is a privilege to be able to support this new initiative to acknowledge and reward the future professionals within the trade”.

Victoria Wingate, NAG Education and Training manager adds that “this is a great way for the NAG and Bransom to acknowledge all the hard work JET 1 students put in to their assignments and to recognise their future within the industry.”

There are five assignments in JET 1, which can be taken over three to six months.

However the final assignment is longer and more involved. Successful completion of the five assignments entitles students to enter JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma.

All JET 1 students’ final projects will be entered automatically for the prize and winners will be contacted directly. They will not only feature in the annual Presentation of Award’s issue of The Jeweller, but also be included in the NAG’s special graduation booklet and the graduation ceremony along-

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74 The Jeweller June 2010

side other winners like the Greenough Trophy winner and Gemstone Award winner.

“It really is a special award,” said Wingate, “and gives JET 1 students a great opportunity to see what happens post JET 1.”

So, what can students do to give themselves the best chance of writing the best project?

Tutor and moderator Eddie Stanley, who will help choose the winning assignment each month, suggests students follow some simple guidelines to ensure first class projects: • Research • Plan a logical structure to your answer • Discuss your point thoroughly, rather than make single comments • Well-drawn illustrations by hand help the reader. Include a key to the diagram.

• Make the diagram a sensible size. If it is too small the marker cannot read it.

• Make sure your diagrams agree with what you write.

Stanley adds that students should make their answers ‘interesting and creative’, particularly for Section B of the project.

“It really is a special award and gives JET 1 students a great opportunity to see what happens post JET 1.”

The new award will be launched at the AGM on 14th June 2010 as part of the Association’s on-going 65th anniversary of education celebrations. The meeting will be held at the prestigious Wentworth Golf Club, Surrey and will include a three course lunch, the opportunity to browse the impressive Wentworth grounds or visit the striking Royal Landscape and Virginia Water Lake. Golfers can also book a game on any of the club’s three courses.

There will be an interview with the first winner of the Bransom JET 1 Project Award in next month’s Jeweller.

For more information on the JET courses, go to: www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom go to: www.bransom.co.uk

NAG celebrates 65 years of education and training (cont.)

It is this philosophy that could account for the success of the NAG’s Executive Development Forum, whose members bucked the economic trend last year and recorded a very credible four to six per cent increase on cumulative sales in 2009. The Forum, which is facilitated by Mike McGraw, allows like-minded industry professionals to benefit from access to a close, confidential community, which shares its skills experiences and perspectives, enabling members to build on their own business success.

At its annual congress last year, for example, seminars included talks on issues such as psychological behaviour and ‘Tiger Kidnapping’ rather than just the traditional industry-led talks and discussions. This year’s Oxford Congress on 24th June 2010 will focus on ‘the customer experience’ and again includes speakers from outside the industry.

It is this trading of information that Michael Hoare believes is so crucial to the continued success of the jewellery industry: “Unlike most retail sectors, education and training of jewellery staff is as important now as it has ever been,” he argues. “Customers are voting with their feet and jewellers need to be armed with the right product knowledge, management techniques and shared business practices. Sixty-five years ago Mr. Cuss knew it and we still know it.”

The 65th Anniversary celebrations will continue throughout 2010, starting with the AGM on 14th June 2010. For more information on how to attend the AGM at Wentworth Golf Club or the Oxford Congress on 24th June 2010, call Ritu on 020 7613 4445 or email her at: I ritu@jewellers-online.org

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APPOINTMENTS Store Manager The Oracle Centre, Reading, Berkshire We are looking for an experienced Store Manager for our store in the Oracle Centre, Reading. This is a hands-on role which involves driving sales, developing the team and meeting Company objectives. You will be responsible for ensuring that your team delivers impeccable customer service at all times, that the store is well maintained and

Sales Consultant

that visual product presentation is outstanding.

An opportunity with this prestigious family jewellers.

Ideally you will have several years of relevant retail experience, at least two of which have been in a management role. You should possess excellent communication, organisational, customer service and people management skills.

Generous rewards and the space to develop and grow are on offer for the right candidate. Pravins is a family-owned

Interesting and varied work which requires honesty, flexibility and reliability. Experience in a retail environment preferred.

Working full time • Five days per week • To include every Saturday The successful candidate will undertake training to achieve a professional qualification.

business, established 40 years, specialising in high-quality diamond jewellery.

Please send your CV and a handwritten covering letter to: Pravins Ltd, Chancellors House, Brampton Lane, London NW4 4AB or e-mail: pravins@pravins.co.uk

Applications in writing with a C.V. to: Mr David Clark, 1 Cliffe High Street, Lewes East Sussex, BN7 2AH Email: sales@welclarkandson.co.uk

Diamond Merchandiser £20-£25k per annum negotiable Due to continuous expansion an excellent opportunity has arisen to join a well-established London-based company with over 30 years of manufacturing and wholesale expertise in the jewellery industry. We are looking to recruit for a permanent position an experienced Diamond Merchandiser.

Applicants must have at least 10 years experience within the diamond jewellery trade, ideally being educated to degree level or equivalent and be computer literate. With a minimum of 4-5 years grounding in Diamond Buying the applicant must possess an excellent knowledge of classification of loose diamonds, and market prices.

The successful applicant will be entirely responsible for the procurement of diamonds and needs to show sound commercial judgement and financial skills as well as being a good communicator, and negotiator. The role will involve applying gemmological standards in all aspects of Diamond Grading including evaluation, Cut, Colour, Clarity, Carat Weight, Fluorescence, Polish/Symmetry & Proportion verification to ensure that all diamonds meet the company’s standards as they relate to round brilliant cut and fancy shaped diamonds.

You will be involved in day-to-day operations and strategic expansion of business, and planning. Other duties would also involve attendance at the company’s trade stand in London and elsewhere within the UK. There will also be on occasion a need to travel to international trade fairs.

Fluency in at least one Asian language, preferably Hindi, is required as our company has business interests in India and the subcontinent.

Applications by post only – please send your complete CV and covering letter to: BOX 102, The Jeweller Recruitment, CUBE Publishing, 103 Farringdon Road, London, EC1R 3BS. Alternatively please email your CV and covering letter to: box102@jeweller-recruitment.co.uk

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| Regular

The

Last Word This month The Last Word goes to Chris Garland, managing director of Bransom Retail Systems.

Personal Profile From ex-England rugby player to the MD of the jewellery industry's largest and most successful IT company, Chris has spent almost 30 years developing specialist stock management solutions. As far back as 1984 he helped to design the first computer imaging system for the jewellery trade.

How would you describe your personal style?

Workaholic Where is your favourite holiday destination and why?

France – love the country, the food and the wine. I lived and played rugby there for three years so speak my own version of the language. Ilya Repin (1844-1930) The highlight of – A Shy Peasant my ability was that I was once mistaken for a French peasant by a Parisian!

What three words describe you best… in your view, and according to others?

Honest, fair and hardworking.

Disorganised, messy and late.

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over?

I would develop software for luxury spa resorts and spend my life travelling the world installing systems in all the most beautiful parts of the world and be there long enough to experience and enjoy the people and the culture. Or, not always put work before the family… no, I think it’s got to be the first one.

78 The Jeweller June 2010

If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be?

To get suppliers and retailers working together as a team and understand each other’s needs. I have had to work really hard to get key suppliers to see the benefit of providing us with images, price updates and stock information which we can download to 1000+ jewellery stores automatically and make everyone’s life easier and more cost effective! Suppliers need to realise that the retailer’s shop window is their shop window too.

Do you know the price of a pint of milk?

Yes, its 59 pence delivered to my door! More expensive than the supermarket, but then there is something about pouring milk from the bottle rather than a plastic container.

I think milk deliveries should be subsidised by the government for the elderly, disabled and those without transport. Milk deliveries are a lifeline. Also the milkman is often the first to notice if something is wrong, e.g. milk not taken in or something unusual happening at a property. There aren’t bobbies on the beat anymore but milkmen and postmen are the next best thing.

To what do you attribute your success?

Hard work, persistence and single mindedness, plus the support of my wife and family, and a great team at work who are dedicated about helping our customers.

Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!)?

I don’t shop much these days, but I used to love going to Camden Lock – there is everything there from antiques to ultra modern, clothes, furniture, crafts and jewellery from every corner of the world… from the exotic to the plain ugly and people to match!

If you hadn’t gone into the computer business, what career would you have chosen?

Professional rugby player or road sweeper.

I’m always picking up other people’s litter – we live between the shops and a school, which doesn’t help, and people throw rubbish out of their cars.

Tell us something not many people know about you…

I can dance like John Travolta after a few drinks – mind you I imagine John needs a few drinks these days too.

Quick fire: (no deliberating, straight off the top of your head please) • Football or cricket? (team?)

Football – Chelsea although rugby’s my only sport.

• Diamonds or coloured stones? Diamonds • Contemporary or classic interior design?

Classic • TV or radio? TV • Bentley or Roller? Bentley • Delegator or control freak?

Control freak • Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian? Thai • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles – I recall singing along to She loves you…

My parents must have been very proud.

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