Kansai Scene 220: Winter 2018

WINTER

DEC–MAR 2018/19 No. 220

Free WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE

Winter Delights Sake, skiing, spas and snowcrab

Plus

Inside…

Explore

A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND IN NARA

Sights

BEST SPOTS FOR WINTER SNOWSCAPES

Food & Drink

HOW SAKE IS MAKING ITS COMEBACK

Discover

KINOSAKI’S SEVEN HEALING SPRINGS

WHAT’S ON EAT & DRINK SIGHTSEEING MAPS

Discover Hiroshima’s Scenic Beauty in Akiota-cho

YOICHI SHIDAREZAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOM A stunning 12m tall weeping cherry sitting atop a small hillock is lit up during its brief, but spectacular spring bloom OSORAKAN SNOW PARK

Breathtaking views, fabulous hiking, exciting snow sports and relaxing hot spring accommodation await

Japan’s southernmost ski resort, offering long runs for all levels of skiers and snowboarders, as well as snow trekking and igloo building

SANDANKYO GORGE A stunning 13km river gorge, awarded 3 stars by the French travel guide Blue Guide and selected as one of the top 100 scenic beauty spots in Japan

INI TANADA Picture-perfect terraced paddy fields, offering stunning photo opportunities year-round

Nukui Springs Hotel Offers traditional outdoor hot spring baths overlooking Lake Ryuki in Hiroshima’s Akiota-cho. Relax in comfortable western style or Japanese tatami mat rooms and enjoy our award-winning French dining.

Akiota-cho

Okayama

Himeji

Kyoto Osaka Kobe

Hiroshima

Address: 4692-7, Kake, Akiotacho, Yamgatagun, Hiroshima 731-3501, Japan Tel: +81 (0)826-22-1200 Access: 1 hour by car from Hiroshima IC

RESERVATIONS

www.nukui-sp.com

CONTENTS

26

Winter Dec / Jan / Feb

30

Features

KANSAI FINDER

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23

Kansai’s Snowy Vistas

Nara’s Cocktail Kings

Where to experience the best of the region’s winter snowscapes.

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32 Events & Festivals

RASTA MUSICK Insider tips on Nara’s best cocktails from a master mixologist.

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36 Sights & Attractions

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Sake on the Rise

Art & Exhibitions

JULIAN HOUSEMAN

Discovering Sake

Thinking outside the box is paying off for this Osaka brewery.

Sake Sensei visits the Kurakucho brewery in Shiga.

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Live Music

Hitting the Kansai Slopes

Hot-spring Hopping

RANDY POEHLMAN

CELIA POLKINGHORNE

Alpine skiing options right on our doorstep.

Exploring Hyogo’s quaint onsen town of Kinosaki.

20 A Perfect Long Weekend in Nara Onsen, caves, shrines, temples, and of course, hungry deer.

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42 Clubs & Nightlife

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Food & Drink

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Business Talk An interview with Koichi Kimura, founder of global fashion brand MIKI House.

Getting Around / Maps

What’s On Guide

ON THE COVER: KINOSAKI ONSEN, TOYOOKA TOURISM INNOVATION THIS PAGE: 10 DAIMON BREWERY, ROBERTO ARTURO TAPIA; 30 MIKI HOUSE CEO KOICHI KIMURA, DANIEL LEE; 26 YANAGIYU ONSEN AT KINOSAKI, TOYOOKA TOURISM INNOVATION

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AND MUCH MORE… CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

ABOUT KANSAI SCENE KANSAI SCENE PROVIDES ENGLISHLANGUAGE ARTICLES, INFORMATION AND LISTINGS FOR VISITORS AND RESIDENTS OF THE KANSAI AREA. KANSAI SCENE IS PUBLISHED BY MOJOWORKS KK, WITH SUPPORT FROM CB, LTD. Publisher................................Daniel Lee Managing Editor.......Celia Polkinghorne Editor................................. Jason Haidar Art Director............................Daniel Lee Production........................Mojoworks KK Listings Contributors Art.................................... Brooke Larsen Cinema.............................. Miyoko Morita Events..................................Tomoko Ishii Live Music....................... Phillip Jackson Club.................................. Saiko Fujiwara ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES CB, Ltd Email................ sales@kansaiscene.com Tel......................................03-6260-9125

A

s we prepare for yearend and New Year celebrations, the time has come to pull on the winter woolies, head outdoors, and get amongst all that the chilly season in Kansai has to offer. Whether it’s getting out to Nakanoshima Island or Osaka Castle Park for winter illuminations (p.33), or really braving the chill and heading to the mountains for a spot of skiing (p.16) or a snowy hike to take in some magnificent frozen snowscapes (p.08), we’re certain we’ll have something to pique your interest.

Hot springs are a key part of my winter regime, and this time we take you to the charming onsen town of Kinosaki for a dip in its seven renowned bathhouses and a taste of its famed crab cuisine (p.26). If you’re heading to Nara

this season, we’ve outlined activities for a perfect long weekend in the prefecture (p.20) as well as insider tips on where to get the best cocktails in Nara City (p.23).

Now is also sake-brewing time throughout Kansai, and we have a special feature this issue on moves a local Osaka brewery is making to tap into new markets and boost the understanding and appeal of premium sake locally and internationally (p.10). Stay up-to-date throughout the season with a full list of events and festivals on the Kansai Finder page of our website, and for weekly lists of what’s happening around the region, sign up for our e-newsletters at kansaiscene.com. Wishing you a merry Christmas and a happy New Year from the KS team—we hope you have a wonderful start to 2019.

CELIA POLKINGHORNE editor@ kansaiscene.com

GENERAL ENQUIRIES General ....... mailbox@kansaiscene.com Editorial.......... editor@kansaiscene.com Tel. .....................................06-6539-1717 Fax. ....................................06-7635-4791 Address.................. Osaka-shi, Nishi-ku, .....................................Shinmachi 3-5-7, ............................................Eiko Bldg. 2F ..........................................Mojoworks KK Website........................kansaiscene.com

NEW YEAR EXTRAVAGANZA COUNTING DOWN TO THE NEW YEAR WITH LIVE MUSIC AND FIREWORKS AT WAKAYAMA MARINA CITY

WRITE FOR KANSAI SCENE PHOTO: WAKAYAMA TOURISM FEDERATION

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CALENDAR

Seasonal Highlights

ABOVE: REENACTING THE HISTORICAL SAGA OF THE 47 RONIN AT THE AKO GISHIKI FESTIVAL IN HYOGO

Dec DEC 14–25

OSAKA HIKARIRENAISSANCE 2018 Osaka Mesmerising projection-mapped graphics, seasonal illuminations and paper lanterns provide a winter spectacle in and around the Nakanoshima area. See p.33 for details.

DEC 14

47 RONIN FESTIVAL Hyogo A colorful period costume parade that marks the anniversary of the now legendary 47 samurai heroes who took revenge on the death of their lord in the Edo period. See p.15 for details.

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DEC 31

NEW YEAR’S COUNTDOWN & STARLIGHT ILLUSION 2019 Wakayama Celebrate New Year’s Eve and welcome 2019 with an exciting live music show and the “Starlight Illusion” fireworks display held annually at Wakayama Marina City. See p.35 for details.

Jan JAN 2

NEW YEAR ARCHERY CEREMONY Osaka Watch masters of kyudo (Japanese archery) clad in colorful traditional costumes, aim at a target 60

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meters away in this Shinto ceremony. See p.32 for details.

UNTIL JAN 14

MIRACLE ESCHER WORKS FROM THE ISRAEL MUSEUM Osaka Dutch graphic artist Maurits Cornelis Escher’s mathematically inspired works have wowed audiences around the world for decades. Take this chance to view some 150 of his works, including some of his earliest pieces and autographed drawings at the Abeno Harukas Art Museum. See p. 38 for details.

JAN 10

HOE-KAGO GYORETSU PARADE

Osaka The streets of Minami (south Osaka) come alive as brightly decorated palanquins called hoe-kago parade to Imamiya Ebisu Shrine. The parade starts at Soemoncho and travels along Dotonbori, Ebisubashi, Sennichimae-suji, and Takashimaya on its way to the shrine. See p.32 for details.

JAN 12

KATSUBE FIRE FESTIVAL Shiga Young men dance wildly around bonfires to pray for good health at this 800-year-old festival held simultaneously at two shrines a 15-minute walk from one other. See p.35 for details.

ABOVE: PARTICPANTS ATTEMPT TO LIFT ENORMOUS MOCHI RICE CAKES

BELOW: COLORFUL PALANQUINS ARE CARRIED AROUND OSAKA IN THE HOEKAGO GYORETSU PARADE

TOP: NEW YEAR ARCHERY CEREMONY AT MOZU HACHIMANGU SHRINE IN OSAKA BOTTOM LEFT: THOUSANDS OF TORCHBEARING MEN RUSH DOWN THE STEPS OF KAMIKURA SHRINE IN WAKAYAMA IN THIS FRANTIC CEREMONY BOTTOM RIGHT: KYOGEN PLAYS PERFORMED AS PART OF THIS SETSUBUN FESTIVAL TO WARD OFF CELESTIAL SPIRITS

UNTIL JAN 14

THE ART OF PORTRAITURE IN THE LOUVRE COLLECTIONS Osaka This exhibition features some 110 portraits borrowed from the Louvre Museum collection, including 3,000-yearold masks excavated from Ancient Egyptian coffins, paintings and sculptures representing ancient figures like Marie Antoinette, and numerous other masterpieces. See p.39 for details.

JAN 14

DOYA DOYA – BUDDHIST GOOD LUCK CEREMONY Osaka

Hundreds of seminaked male students scramble to get their hands on religious objects said to bring good luck at this Buddhist event held at Shitennoji Temple. See p.18 for details.

JAN 26

WAKAKUSA YAMAYAKI Nara 33 hectares of grassland on Mt. Wakakusa is turned into a sea of flames to herald the coming spring in this ancient Nara tradition. See p.33 for details.

Feb

DESIGN FOR A NEW WAY OF LIFE Kyoto An exhibition of Viennese turn-of-thecentury graphic design, including pieces by Gustav Klimt and Josef Hoffmann. See p.39 for details.

FEB 6

OTO MATSURI (FIRE FESTIVAL) Wakayama Two thousand men run down the 538 stone steps from the peak of Kamikura mountain in this frantic torch ceremony. See p.35 for details.

LOOKING FOR MORE THINGS TO DO? COMPLETE EVENT LISTINGS CAN BE FOUND ONLINE AT KANSAIFINDER. COM

FEB 2 & 3

SETSUBUN MIBU KYOGEN Kyoto Short non-verbal, but often comical kyogen plays are performed to celebrate the traditional holiday of Setsubun, where ogres and demons are chased away. See p.33 for details.

FEB 23

GODAIRIKI-SAN (WEIGHT-LIFTING CONTEST) Kyoto As part of the Godairiki-San ceremony, participants attempt to please the deity of the temple by lifting a gigantic twolayered kagami-mochi (rice cake). See p.33 for details.

UNTIL FEB 24

GRAPHICS IN VIENNA AROUND 1900 – NEW

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DISCOVER

Kansai’s Glistening Snowy Scenes Five magnificent local snowscapes to pull your long johns on for this winter.

TEXT: KS

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 So rare is it to get more than the accidental few snowflakes falling in Kansai’s larger cities that urban dwellers in these parts could be forgiven for forgetting what a snowflake looks like! Luckily, however, you don’t have to venture far from Osaka, Kobe, or Kyoto to get a frosty fix this winter. Here are five picturesque locations around the region that almost always get a generous snowfall, particularly between New Year and spring.

MOUNT KONGO, OSAKA/NARA

Situated on the border between Osaka and Nara, Kongosan is the dominant peak in the Kongo Katsuragi range, yet has one of the easier mountain-hiking courses in Kansai. At 1,125 meters—the highest point in Osaka Prefecture— Mount Kongo is one of the most popular places to take in snow views in the region, as well as far-reaching views across Osaka Prefecture. Unlike on many other Kansai mountains in winter, you won’t be alone on the slopes. Lines of people queue up on weekends for buses that drop hikers at the base of the mountain from which you make your way up the wooden steps to the temples and shrines at the top. The main draw is the juhyo— trees glazed with ice—as well as the few inches of snow that lingers on the peak throughout the winter. It is a good idea to bring some small snow spikes or four-point crampons in case the paths are icy and slippery, and if hiking conditions aren’t ideal on the day, you can always ascend the mountain by cable car.

PHOTO: MOUNT KONGO, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/PL3

ACCESS: TAKE THE NANKAI KOYA LINE FROM NAMBA STATION TO KAWACHINAGANO STATION. FROM THERE, RIDE THE NANKAI BUS FOR ABOUT 35 MINUTES TO THE KONGO TOZAN GUCHI BUS STOP.

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Winter Hiking Preparation

PHOTO: MOUNT BUNAGATAKE, NOBU / PIXTA

• Inform someone of your plans, including route, times, distances, and so on.

• Wear warm layers including gloves, scarves, beanies, and thermals as well as durable waterproof footwear.

• Pack a thermos with a hot drink, detailed maps, a GPS device, and a flashlight or headlamp.

• Set off as early in the day as possible and plan for early nightfall. Sunset in winter months starts at around 4:45 in the afternoon.

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MOUNT KOYA, WAKAYAMA

KURAMA, KYOTO

MOUNT BUNAGATAKE, SHIGA

MOUNT ATAGO, KYOTO

As if the temple village of Koyasan isn’t mystical enough with its seemingly never-ending graveyard full of epic tombstones and towering ancient cedar trees that appear to reach up and brush the sky. But a night of snowfall at this spiritual Shingon Buddhist sanctuary and UNESCO World Heritage Site high up in the Kii mountains takes the mystery factor to the next level. The Shingon sect’s main temple Kongobuji and the moody Okunoin cemetery look all the more captivating with a powdery white coating. Pair a day trip to this fascinating town with a stay in one of the 120 temples, approximately half of which open their doors to visitors to stay overnight, allowing a glimpse into monk life and a chance to try shojin ryori (traditional vegan temple cuisine).

Another serene mountain location with a plethora of holy sites and peaceful forested pilgrimage trails, Kurama is especially alluring in the winter with its majestic frozen scenery.

The snow usually lingers much longer on the mountains that surround Kyoto, and it is not uncommon for peaks north of the city to be covered with a smattering of it for weeks at a time in the winter. The pearly white powder contrasts with rows of bright red lanterns lining the staircase to Kuramadera temple for strikingly photogenic views. Under normal circumstances, you can trek tranquil snowy paths up over Mount Kurama and down to the village of Kibune, but the trail has been closed temporarily as a result of damage caused by a September typhoon. Until it reopens, traveling between Kurama and Kibune is an easy two-minute journey on the Eizan Electric Railway. At the end of a brisk day of exploring, head for the steamy rotenburo (open-air hot springs) of Kurama Onsen and soak your chilled bones in piping-hot cypress-wood tubs surrounded by snow-dusted landscaped gardens.

Shiga Prefecture boasts some of Kansai’s highest summits and most striking mountain scenery, and those peaks are dumped with snowfall in the winter months as a result of cold air masses that drift down from the Sea of Japan. The lofty Mount Bunagatake to the west of Lake Biwa is the highest peak in the Hira Mountains and another top spot for white winter vistas.

Trekking up this mountain in the snow is no mean feat, however, and should only be attempted by experienced climbers. The 1,214-meter slope has quite a steep approach from the tiny village of Bomura, from which it is a four-hour haul to the top.

During winter climbs, most hikers come down the same way they went up, but there are several paths pulling off in other directions across the mountain, so there is a variety of options for adventure climbers.

Regardless of whether or not you attempt a climb to the peak, the bus journey to Bomura offers sweeping views of the scenic snowcapped Hira range.

Another looming mountain, directly west of Shiga’s Mount Hiei on the other side of Kyoto City, is Mount Atago, the highest peak of the mountain range flanking the city. Unlike Hieizan, there is no ropeway to ride to the top, and the only way to get there is to climb the 924 meters on foot. Beginning at the sleepy hamlet of Kiyotaki, the approximately four-kilometer hiking trail snakes its way up the steep slope to a sacred shrine at the top. On this still, snowy landscape, the only sounds to be heard are ice crunching beneath your soles and clumps of snow falling off bare winter trees. The entire hike takes around three to five hours, but a warning that snow and ice can make winter climbing more difficult, so more time should be allowed to stay on the safe side. Leading up to the highest point, there is an open area with benches to relax on and take in panoramic views of Kyoto.

ACCESS: TAKE A LIMITED EXPRESS TRAIN ON THE NANKAI KOYA LINE FROM NAMBA STATION TO GOKURAKUBASHI STATION WHERE YOU CHANGE TO THE KOYASAN CABLE CAR.

ACCESS: TAKE A BUS FROM KYOTO STATION TO THE VILLAGE OF KIYOTAKI..

ACCESS: INFREQUENT BUSES RUN BETWEEN KYOTO’S DEMACHIYANAGI STATION AND BOMURA (KYOTO BUS 10).

ACCESS: TAKE A TRAIN FOR 30 MINUTES ON THE EIZAN LINE FROM KYOTO’S DEMACHIYANAGI STATION.

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FEATURE

Sake on the Rise THE RETURN OF OSAKA’S DAIMON BREWERY

In an industry steeped in tradition, thinking outside the box is starting to pay off for this small local brewery.

TEXT: JULIAN HOUSEMAN

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PHOTOS: ROBERTO ARTURO TAPIA

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iven the ubiquity of sake (or nihonshu as it also known) in everyday Japan, one could be forgiven for thinking of sake brewing as a thriving industry. However, the reality is not so simple. While slumping sales of low-end table sake (think the stuff in packs you see in the supermarket) produced in high volume is dragging overall numbers down, premium sake consumption is on the rise.

(Premium sake, in this case, being sake that has met the industry criteria for the production process and the omission of secondary ingredients, leaving the basic ingredients of rice, water, yeast, koji mold and occasionally, additions of distilled alcohol). Consumers, both local and abroad, are enthusiastically coming around to the complex and variant flavor profiles that premium sake offers.

This is both an exciting and confusing time for Japan’s 1,300 or so breweries.

Some have embraced this new era by diving into the foreign market, sending export volumes soaring over the last five to 10 years. Other breweries have successfully tapped into the local youth market with colorful rebranding, hip

marketing strategies, and engaging social-media profiles. Then there are those that are floundering with a customer base of aging drinkers, an outdated website, and no idea how to attract new customers. This reality is what sadly sees at least a couple of breweries go under each year, which is why it is always heartening to see a brewery turn it all around and come back from the brink.

Situated in a valley at the foot of the Ikoma mountain range in Katano City, Osaka sits Daimon Brewery, established in 1826. This location offers access to locally grown rice and soft, pristine water that flows from the surrounding mountains; an ideal environment for sake brewing.

Yasutaka Daimon, the current and sixth-generation president, is a suave gent, spritely for his 70 years, and fluent in English. As the oldest of four children, his future with the brewery was never in doubt but before committing to the family business, he chose to spread his wings with an extended ‘gap year’ traveling to 65 countries over six years from 1969 to 1975. It was through these travels that Daimon learned English

TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURE LARGE GREEN MOROMI BREWING TANKS LINE THE WALLS OF THE WOODEN-BEAMED FACTORY

ABOVE: DAIMON PRESIDENT YASUKATA DAIMON AND CEO, MARCUS CONSOLINI

LEFT: THE BEAUTIFUL STONE STEPS LEADING TO THE BREWERY ENTRANCE

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FLAGSHIP SAKE THEIR PREMIUM DAIMON SERIES RANGE. THE NUMBERS INDICATE THE POLISHING RATIO.

HEAD BREWER THE HEAD BREWER (TOJI), RYOSUKE UEI, OVERSEES PRODUCTION. HERE SEEN PREPARING RICE FOR STEAMING.

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(and some French) and developed his affinity for international culture. Upon his return to Osaka, Daimon joined the brewery, working his way through various administrative and sales roles before studying the art of brewing. Daimon Brewery enjoyed relative success over the following decades. In the nineties, he began to concentrate on small-batch production: artisanal sake rich in umami (savory taste) to complement the food of Kansai. Later, he was one of the first breweries to take on a non-Japanese brewer and also co-founded the Japan Sake Export Association. Despite these successes, Daimon Brewery was not immune to the industry-wide issue of aging staff. With little interest from young prospective employees, Daimon himself stepped into the role of toji (head brewer) around 2003. But after several years, financial realities and staffing issues weighed heavily to the point where he began to question the future of the brewery.

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

It was during this period of uncertainty that Daimon had a chance encounter with New Yorker Marcus Consolini who was in Kyoto on a machiya (traditional wooden Japanese house) renovation project. Marcus’ career background in finance and banking along with his 25-year love affair with Japan’s culture, martial arts, and of course—sake, proved to be the key to bringing Daimon Brewery back to life.

In 2017, Daimon took a step that was unprecedented in the sake industry—it appointed a foreigner as the new CEO of Daimon Brewery. As CEO, Marcus’ sharp business acumen and assertiveness juxtapose nicely with Daimon’s laid-back, old-school approach. In the short time since Marcus’ appointment, brewery staff has increased from two to six, and a business staff of one has increased to a multi-lingual, international business and sales staff of 10. Even Daimon’s sons, who were initially encouraged to look to other career paths, have joined the family business. Together, under this

TRADITIONAL INTERIORS THE MAIN DAIMON BREWERY BUILDING DATES BACK TO THE 19TH CENTURY BREWERY TOUR JOIN A TOUR WITH AN ENGLISHSPEAKING GUIDE AND LEARN ABOUT THE SAKE BREWING PROCESS FIRSTHAND

new dynamic, Daimon and Marcus are striving to re-establish Daimon Brewery and their flagship label Rikyubai in the sake scene, first locally then globally.

As part of their dedication to letting the world know about Osaka sake, Daimon Brewery is also offering the unique opportunity of brewing internships. Living onsite at the brewery for one week, an intern can gain hands-on experience in every facet of sake brewing, all explained in English. Anyone interested can contact the brewery directly for details.

If you are eager to try the sake of Daimon Brewery, go straight to the source and join a brewery tour, happening Thursday and Friday afternoons from 3pm for ¥1,500. During the tour, you can see step-by-step how the sake is made with an English-speaking guide and do some sake sampling at the end. Alternative times may be arranged by contact-

Find it…

ing the brewery directly. If you want to settle in for a meal, the onsite brewery restaurant Mukune Tei was re-launched this year after a four-year hiatus. Offering hearty, home-style cooking and a cozy, Japanese homestead feel, Mukune Tei is a comfortable spot for getting acquainted with the Daimon Brewery ethos. Friday nights are sake nights with a buffet dinner, all-you-can-drink sake, and occasional live music. Saturdays are open for lunch and dinner and Sundays lunch only. (If you’ve had your fill of sake, head downstairs to Marcus’ private whiskey room for some drams and a cigar!). Keep an eye out in the New Year when the restaurant will welcome some international chefs for guest stints in the kitchen. Following the success of their Fresh Pressed festival in November, April will bring their next open-brewery festival with lots of sake, music, food and good vibes.

LABELING BOTTLES OF SAKE BEING LABELED BY HAND

Address: 13-12-1 Mori-Minami, Katano City, Osaka • Access: JR Gakkentoshi line, KawachiIwafune Station, 7-min walk daimonbrewery.com

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SAMPLE SAKES OR TAKE A SELFGUIDED TOUR AT GEKKEIKAN IN FUSHIMI, KYOTO.

Sake Sampling If you’re exploring another part of Kansai and are eager to visit a sake brewery, here are some easily accessible options.

Kyoto A wander around the sake town of Fushimi will bring you to sake behemoth Gekkeikan. Here you can see all manner of sake brewing artifacts with explanations in their Okura Sake Museum. Also, sample sake in their tasting room open from 9am–4:30pm weekdays and 11am–3pm on the second Saturday of each month. Self-guided tours offer a peek into the brewing process for ¥400 from 9am–3pm daily.

Address: 247 Minamihama-cho, Fushimi-ku, Kyoto City Access: Keihan Main Line, Chushojima Station, 5-min walk; Kintetsu Kyoto Line, Momoyama-Goryomae Station, 10-min walk gekkeikan-sake.com

Kobe The Nada region in Kobe is the largest and arguably most famous sake-producing region in Japan. There are plenty of breweries offering tours in the area, but Kiku Masamune offers something a little different with its preference for utilizing older production methods and maturing sake in cedar barrels. Check out the museum daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm, or book online for a free guided tour and tasting of their range.

Available times and dates are on the website.

Address: 1-7-15 Mikagehonmachi, Higashinada Ward, Kobe Access: JR Minami Uozaki Station, 2-min walk; Hanshin Uozaki Station, 10-min walk www.kikumasamune.com

Wakayama

Address: 758-45 Fujishiro, Kainan, Wakayama Access: JR Kainan Station, 20-min walk www.nakano-group.co.jp/tour/index/en

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PHOTO: JJ O’DONOGHUE

On the way out to picturesque Shirahama, Nakano BC in Kainan City offers an informative appointment-only tour of its facilities and immaculately maintained gardens. Here, you can also see the brewing process up close, try some of the sake in their range, and, if you are so inclined, purchase a few bottles to take home.

FESTIVALS

The 47 Ronin Festival A Parade for Ako’s Samurai Heroes

Hyogo’s small town of Ako celebrates being home to one of Japan’s most famous historical stories.

Dec 14 Ako Gishisai HYOGO LOCATION: Ako Castle &

PHOTO: CITY OF AKO

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ecember 14th marks the anniversary of the 47 samurai heroes who took revenge in the most spectacular and unexpected fashion on the death of their lord in the Edo period. As the story goes, a group of samurai was left leaderless (becoming ronin) after their daimyo (feudal lord) Asano Naganori was compelled to commit seppuku (ritual suicide) for assaulting a court official named Kira Yoshinaka, who had unfairly provoked him.

Instead of avenging their master immediately after his death, the ronin bode their time to ensure their attack would be successful. If they had attacked Kira right after Asano’s death, the ronin would likely have suffered defeat, as Kira was ready for a hit at that time. So, Oishi Yoshio, the leader of the samurai group, hatched a plan to throw Kira off and trick him into letting his guard down.

His men dispersed and became tradesmen and monks while Oishi took up residence in Kyoto and began to frequent brothels and taverns as if nothing were further from his mind than revenge. Then, more than a year later, when Oishi was sure that Kira was thoroughly off his guard, he left Kyoto and the entire band of 47 ronin gathered at a secret meeting place in Edo to renew their oaths.

Surroundings • DATE: Dec 14 • TIME: 10am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Banshu-Ako Stn • city.ako.lg.jp/kensetsu/kankou/ akogishisai.html

Then, on the 14th day of the 12th month in 1703, Oishi and the other ronin attacked Kira’s mansion in Edo according to a carefully laid-out plan, killing Kira, and finally avenging their master’s honor. In turn, they were themselves obliged to commit seppuku for defying the shogunate’s authority by exacting revenge, which had been prohibited. They all committed seppuku and died honorably on the same day.

This is a much-loved national legend and hordes of people flock to the hometown of these heroes—the small Seto seaside town of Ako in Hyogo Prefecture— during Ako Gishisai (the 47 ronin festival) held to pay tribute to the great achievement of the samurai group.

There is a grand parade featuring characters from this period in elegant costumes, and reenactments of combat scenes from the day of the attack. The renowned actor Hideki Takahashi will join this year’s parade to play Oishi.

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EXPERIENCE

Carving

THE KANSAI SLOPES Hit the slopes on a board or skis in Kansai’s snowiest alpine regions.

H

okkaido’s powder snow is the cream of the crop when it comes to Japan’s plethora of winter sports destinations, but if time or funds don’t permit a trip to the nation’s northernmost island this season, there is skiing right here on Kansai’s doorstep.

While perhaps not quite on a par with the frozen, powder-laden landscapes of Nagano, Tohoku, and Hokkaido, Kansai does have a wintery side. From midDecember through to mid-March, some of the more rural and mountainous pockets of the region experience significant snowfall. One thing’s for sure, if it’s snowing in the city, you can be sure there are amaz-

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ing skiing and snowboarding conditions in the surrounding alpine areas.

From Kyoto, the closest and most accessible skiing option is a rather small resort called Biwako Valley in Shiga Prefecture.

On clear, sunny days, skiers are treated with views of the vast Lake Biwa which lays at the base of the mountain range.

There is a good mix of beginner-friendly runs as well as some technical terrain featuring moguls and a park with ramps and rails. There are a few forest runs that offer tree-lined trails and limited tree skiing for those brave enough to carve into it. There is also a ski school attached to the resort and it is easy to call ahead and book classes. The adult daily lift ticket costs

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

TOP: THE TOP OF THE MOGULS RUN AT BIWAKO VALLEY IN SHIGA, WITH LAKE BIWA VISIBLE BELOW. ABOVE: CUTTING FRESH TRACKS AMONGST THE TREES AT BIWAKO VALLEY.

PHOTOS: RANDY POEHLMAN

TEXT: RANDY POEHLMAN

SNOWBOARDERS WAITING TO TACKLE THE TERRAIN IN SHIGA.

SNOWBOARDING THE GROOMED TRAILS AT THE TOP OF MANBA IN HYOGO.

approximately ¥5,500. Depending on weather conditions, the resort is expected to open mid-December. You can access the resort via JR train from Kyoto Station. Get off at Shiga Station and take a short shuttle bus to the base of the ski resort. After renting your gear, a large ropeway takes you up the mountain to the slopes.

Hyogo Prefecture boasts some excellent skiing and snowboarding options. The resorts commonly known as “Kannabe” in Toyooka are mostly dated but are the best option in the prefecture. Hotels, houses, and restaurants surrounding the slopes appear to hail from the glory days of Japanese skiing during the bubble economy of the late 1980s. Oku Kannabe, Manba, and Up Kannabe are the three main resorts in the Kannabe highlands.

They offer joint lift tickets, so you can ski different resorts with a single day pass, providing lots of variety in runs. Kannabe hosts a range of winter sporting activities including snowshoeing, sledding, snowcat rides, and hot-air balloon rides. Oku Kannabe also has floodlights and offers night skiing. The best aspect of Kannabe is the limited crowds and wide-open slopes.

Daily lift passes for adults in Kannabe cost around ¥4,500.

Another superb element of Japanese ski culture is the widely available onsen (hot springs) that are usually close to ski locations. Kannabe offers convenient access to Kinosaki Onsen, regarded as one of the best hot-spring centers in Japan (read all about it on page 26). The onsen town is about a 40-minute drive from the ski resorts at Kannabe. The Kinosaki tourism board recommends traveling in a private vehicle because of the rural nature of the area. Public transportation options are available but are rather limited.

Also in northern Hyogo Prefecture is Hachi Kita Kogen in Kami city and Hachi Kogen in Yabu city, both located on opposite sides of Mt. Hachibuse. The resort pair offers a joint lift ticket which provides an excellent day’s skiing. These two ski resorts hail from the 1960s and adult lift tickets are about ¥4,500.

Gifu, although not officially considered a part of Kansai, but close enough to easily access from Kyoto, also offers some top winter sports destinations. Takasu Snow Park located in central Gifu boasts a stellar half pipe that is claimed to be the best in Japan, but the only way to verify is to head out to the mountain and try your luck. Takasu also offers joint lift tickets with Dynaland, and the two combined afford approximately 43 kilometers of courses. Last year, they added a few tree runs to their trail map making this resort a true gem. Train access to Takasu Snow Park is limited, and it is also recommended that you arrive with your own vehicle or join a bus tour. Takasu adult daily lift tickets are around ¥5,000.

Takasu Snow Park is also located close to Shirakawa-go, a charming farm village most picturesque during the winter with snow caking the roofs of its distinctive A-framed houses. If you are going to ski at Takasu, plan an extra day in your itinerary to take in the surrounding towns.

Takayama is another worthwhile town to check out and trying the beef sushi while there is a must.

A little further afield in Fukui Prefecture, Ski Jam—officially known as Ski Japan Katsuyama—is another popular snowy destination for Kansai dwellers. It is especially popular with younger skiers and snowboarders and seems to be most enjoyed by those in their teens and 20s.

One-day adult lift tickets are ¥4,700.

No gear?

No Worries!

Another convenient aspect of Japanese ski culture is that at many resorts you can rent all essential gear. Of course, skis, boots, poles, snowboards, helmets, and common rental items are available, but many resorts also offer rentals for ski pants, jackets, gloves, and other warm alpine wear.

Call ahead to make sure that your desired equipment and sizes are available. Ski and snowboard boots are usually available up to 30cm.

Snow Japan is a valuable resource when planning your Japanese winter sports adventures, featuring reviews, snow conditions, costs, and lots of up-to-date information on all aspects of snow holidays in Japan.

SNOWJAPAN.COM

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FESTIVALS

Doya Doya

BUDDHIST GOOD LUCK CEREMONY

Celebrate the New Year at one of Osaka’s quirkiest festivals.

Jan 14 Doya Doya Festival

“D

OSAKA LOCATION: Shitennoji Temple • DATE: Jan 14 • TIME: 2pm–3:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Tanimachi line, Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Stn, 5-min walk • shitennoji.or.jp

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oya-doya” is a Japanese onomatopoeia for the thundering sound made by hundreds of stamping feet, which can be heard when a crowd of people bursts into Rokuji Hall at Shitennoji Temple—one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples— during January’s Doya Doya Festival.

In the course of this rowdy event, hundreds of semi-naked high-school boys wearing only red or white fundoshi (traditional loincloths) scramble to get their hands on religious objects believed to bring good luck. The action starts just after two o’clock when talismans are cast from the beams of Rokuji Hall and the priests of the temple throw cold water at the boys as they run.

Doya Doya is performed as the closing ceremony of an essential ritual held to bring in the New Year, celebrating the end of a 14 day period of worship. In the past, it was said that hanging the charms caught at this festival in your family’s rice fields would ward off pests and grant an abundant harvest.

Shitennoji Temple was founded in 593 by Prince Shotoku, who supported the introduction of Buddhism to Japan. He named the temple after the Shitenno—the four heavenly kings of Buddhism who are said to guard the world against evil. Though this temple complex has a long history, most of the buildings have been destroyed by fire and rebuilt several times, and several of the current buildings date from the 1960s and 1970s.

After the excitement of Doya Doya, climb the five-story pagoda and take in views of the area from the top.

Then explore the Treasure House, which contains a number of national treasures including swords said to have belonged to Prince Shotoku.

Afterward, stroll through Gokurakujodo Garden, which was created in the early Edo Period and is based on an idea of the Western Paradise of Amida, with tranquil ponds, waterfalls, cherry trees, irises, and stone lanterns. Kame-no-ike pond in the main complex is beloved for its basking turtles.

EXPLORE

A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND

PHOTOS: DEER AT TODAIJI TEMPLE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

in Nara

How to see the best of the ancient city and surrounds in a few adventure-filled days.

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BIG BUDDHA

B

est known for old temples, boisterous deer, an expansive park, and a massive wooden temple with a giant bronze Buddha statue, Nara is one of Kansai’s most beloved day trips. But consider the prefecture’s serene gardens, forested mountains, distinctive limestone caves, and tranquil hot-spring retreats, and suddenly you realize you need a weekend or more. If you find yourself headed there this season, follow our tips for a spectacular four-day jaunt in Nara Prefecture.

Day 1 Watch the traditional art of mochi-making While walking from the JR train station to Nara Park, drop into Nakatanidou Mochi Shop where staff members pride themselves on being the fastest mochi pounders in town! Watch them make sticky rice cakes at lightning speed and sample the goods afterward.

Explore shrines and temples leading to Nara Park Stop off at the small, quaint Isagawajinja—Nara’s oldest shrine (established in 593)—renowned for parents visiting to pray for their children’s well-being.

Next, snap a photo with the five-storied

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NO TRIP TO NARA COULD BE COMPLETE WITHOUT SEEING THE WORLD’S LARGEST BUDDHA STATUE AT TODAI-JI TEMPLE IN THE GROUNDS OF NARA PARK

pagoda of Kofuku-ji temple, once the family temple of the powerful Fujiwara aristocratic clan. Then stroll around the willow-lined Sarusawa Pond.

Roam exquisite Japanese gardens Stroll through a pond garden, a moss garden and a tea ceremony garden on the grounds of Yoshiki-en, and at Isuien, see a prime example of shakkei—the Japanese concept of borrowed scenery—with Mt. Wakakusa serving as the garden’s backdrop.

EXQUISITE GARDENS

Browse Buddhist decorative art See archaeological objects and Buddhist artworks at the Nara National Museum.

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STROLL AROUND THE POND AT YOSHIKI-EN GARDEN

DEER SNACKS

PHOTOS: BUDDHA AT TODAIJI TEMPLE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/VANBEETS; YOSHIKI-EN GARDEN, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/ TUPUNGATO; DEER IN NARA PARK, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/YY306760; DEER CRACKERS, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/JUNCE; KAKINOHAZUSHI, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/C11YG

NARA PARK IS FAMOUS FOR ITS DOE-EYED DEER, WILLING YOU TO FEED THEM A PACKET OF THEIR FAVORITE SHIKA SENBEI CRACKERS

Picnic in Nara Park then visit the big Buddha

Day 2

Shop for souvenirs in Naramachi

Open a bento (lunch box) on the expansive grounds of Nara Park. Watch out for curious, hungry deer (and purchase some deer crackers if you’re up for feeding them). Then go to the famed Todai-ji temple housing a 15-meter-high bronze Buddha statue known as Daibutsu—the world’s largest.

Do a lap around Sagiike pond

Hit the historic Edo-era streets of Naramachi, the towns former merchant district, and roam past machiya (traditional wooden buildings) while shopping for local souvenirs like Narazuke pickle cookies, sweet ararezake liqueur, or highquality Nara fude makeup brushes.

*Every February in the week running up to Valentine’s Day, the Nara National Museum, Todaiji Temple, and Kasuga Shrine are lit up from 6pm to 9pm each night.

See a sunset from Todai-ji’s Nigatsu-do Hall Take in dusky orange hues then views of Nara City’s glimmering nightscape from the lantern-lit platform of Nigatsudo Hall. *Panoramic views can be seen from the top of MT. WAKAKUSA on the northern side of Nara Park; however, the mountain is closed to climbers between December and March. But visitors to Nara on the fourth Saturday of January can witness the WAKAKUSA YAMAYAKI, an annual festival during which the mountain is set on fire.

Take in misty morning views of the hexagonal wooden structure of Ukimido Pavilion, which appears to float on top of the water, on an early-morning stroll around Sagaiike.

Hike trails in the Kasugayama Forest Hike the 11.5km course winding through Mt. Kasuga Primeval Forest past maple trees and ancient cedars with vistas over Nara Park and the city.

Stop off at Kasuga-taisha, a shrine on the east side of Nara Park, which dates back to 768 A.D., and is illuminated with more than 3,000 lanterns.

Eat persimmon-leaf sushi Try the famous pressed sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves made with preserved fish called kakinoha-zushi at vendors like Hirasou, one of the oldest persimmonleaf sushi companies in Nara founded 150 years ago.

KAKINOHA ZUSHI TRY THIS TRADITIONAL NARA DELICACY PRESERVED FISH SUSHI WRAPPED IN A PERSIMMON LEAF

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LEFT: MT. YOSHINO OFFERS SCENIC TRAILS AND FANTASTIC VIEWS YEAR ROUND

Day 3

Day 4

Photograph the buildings and gardens of Koriyama Castle

Climb Mount Yoshino

Check out Dorogawa’s limestone caves

Snap pictures of the photogenic Bishamon Kuruwa before crossing a glass-bottomed walkway from which you can view the excavated remains of the original Koriyama Castle.

Hike scenic forested trails up Yoshinoyama stopping at old temples, quaint cafes, and quirky souvenir vendors along the way.

Stay in a Ryokan with a hot spring Experience traditional Japanese hospitality, accommodation, and kaiseki course meals while staying overnight at a ryokan (inn) and soak in the indoor and open-air hot-spring pools of Dorogawa Onsen.

Explore one of the cavernous limestone formations near Dorogawa, like Goyomatsu Limestone Cave, which is reached via a tiny monorail through the forest.

Roam the grounds of Kashihara Shrine Wander through the impressive grounds of Kashihara-jingu dedicated to the first Emperor and the origin of civilization in Japan, situated in a preserved forest sanctuary at the base of Mount Unebi.

Eat dinner at a Michelin-star soba restaurant Soba, or buckwheat noodles, may sound pretty standard, but restaurant Gen takes this classic Japanese dish to a Michelin-star level. The zaru-soba, cold noodles dipped in a light soy sauce, is a favorite.

Have a nightcap at a cocktail bar Sip on fancy drinks at a specialty cocktail bar like Nara Lamp Bar (more details on p 23).

Find it…

Nakatanidou Mochi Shop 29 Hashimotocho, Nara City; nakatanidou.jp/english • Isagawa Shrine 18 Honkomoricho, Nara City; isagawa-jinja.jp/en • Kofuku Temple 48 Noboriojicho, Nara City; visitnara.jp/venues/A00486 • Sarusawa Pond 49 Sarusawa, Ojicho, Nara; visitnara.jp/venues/A01559 • Yoshiki-en 60-1 Noboriojicho, Nara; visitnara.jp/venues/A00492 • Isui-en 74 Suimoncho, Nara; isuien.or.jp/en • Nara National Museum 50 Noboriojicho, Nara; narahaku.go.jp/english • Nara Park nara-park.com • Todai-ji 406-1 Zoshicho, Nara; todaiji.or.jp/english • Sagiike/Ukimido Pavilion 1194 Takabatakecho, Nara City; visitnara.jp/venues/A01113 • Mt. Kasuga Primeval Forest Nara Okuyama Driveway, Setarincho, Nara; nara-park.com/en/spot/mt-kasuga • Kasuga Shrine 160 Kasuganocho, Nara; nara-park.com/en/spot/kasugataisha • Hirasou 30-1 Imamikadocho, Nara City; hiraso.jp/lang/english.html • Naramachi Yamatokoriyama, Nara; visitnara.jp/destinations/area/naramachi • Mount Yoshino Yoshino District, Nara Prefecture; visitnara.jp/destinations/area/yoshino • Dorogawa Onsen 13-1 Dorogawa, Tenkawa-mura, Yoshino; visitnara.jp/destinations/area/dorogawa • Kashihara Shrine 934 Kumecho, Kashihara, Nara; kashiharajingu.or.jp • Koriyama Castle 2 Jonaicho, Yamatokoriyama City; japan.travel/en/spot/1000 • Gen 23-2 Fukuchiincho, Nara City; visitnara.jp/ venues/D00188 • Nara Lamp Bar 26 Tsunofuricho, Nara City; Facebook: LAMP BAR

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PHOTOS: MT. YOSHINO, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/MEIKYOU; KORIYAMA CASTLE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/DANIELDEP

ABOVE: KORIYAMA CASTLE

Nara’s Cocktail Kings

KANSAI INSIDER

MICHITO KANEKO IS AN AWARD WINNING MIXOLOGIST AND OWNER OF THE LAMP BAR IN NARA

Insider tips from master mixologist Michito Kaneko on finding the best cocktails in Nara.

TEXT: RASTA MUSICK

PHOTOS: ROBERTO ARTURO TAPIA

N

ara is probably best known for its abundant deer and its giant Buddha statue, but it also boasts some top spots for cocktails.

Master bartender Michito Kaneko owns and runs Lamp Bar, which is a two-minute walk from Kintetsu Nara Station. He’s been working in the field of mixology since the age of 20. In 2015, he beat more than 10,000 competitors from around the world to win the World Class competition, a bartending tournament. Since then, he has traveled around the world hosting mixology seminars.

This hasn’t stopped him from refining and improving his own techniques, though.

The Lamp Bar has no menus. Many customers opt to order one of Kaneko’s specialties – such as Amber Time, Union, or Japanese Sensory – or request to be surprised, and delighted, by the bartender’s choice of creation. A heads up that no menu also means no prices, and all that creative class costs some cash, so be prepared to spend at least ¥2,000 per drink. A generous host and a man of many friends, Kaneko recommends several other great bars in Nara.

At Old Time, Yutaka Haba, described

by Kaneko as a “legendary bartender,” has been Kaneko’s mentor and guide since Kaneko first started bartending. Haba is well-known in the Nara bartending scene, and Kaneko recommends trying his gimlets

BELOW: ONE OF KANEKO’S SIGNATURE COCKTAILS ‘THE BEGINNING’

and martinis in particular. Old Time is located in Hotel Fujita, near Sanjo-dori.

In Nara Hotel’s The Bar, keep an eye out for bartender Tsuyoshi Miyazaki. Kaneko met Miyazaki in 2010 when they worked together at Nara Hotel. The two of them became fast friends. Miyazaki specializes in wine-flavored cocktails. He won Japan’s national mixology competition in 2013 and is a master mixologist with many years’ experience. The bar is located on the first floor of the main building of the Nara Hotel, near Kintetsu Nara Station.

The Sailing Bar is where you can find bartender Takumi Watanabe, another friend of Kaneko. Both committed to honing their craft, the two have known each other since Kaneko started bartending and have worked together many times in the past. Like the others, Watanabe has a stellar reputation in bartending. He was the 2010 first-place winner of Japan’s national bartending competition. Kaneko suggests trying the Botanical Garden, a martini special of Watanabe’s.

The Sailing Bar is located 15 minutes from Sakurai Station.

Whether you are planning a visit to Nara or are already there, take the time to treat yourself to a beverage created and served by award-winning bartenders who have devoted their lives to mastering the art of mixology.

THE LAMP BAR INTERIOR

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23

SAKE SENSEI’S

Brewery Adventures

IN THE SECOND PART OF OUR EXPLORATION INTO THE WORLD OF SAKE, WE TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THE BREWING PROCESS ITSELF—A

1

LABOR-INTENSIVE PROCESS REQUIRING KEEN ATTENTION TO DETAIL. SO, JUST HOW IS IT MADE?

RICE

POLISHED RICE

POLISHING

SUPPORTED BY:

WASHING & STEEPING

3

THE JAPAN SAKE SOCIETY KOJI

5

2

KOJI-KIN

4th Day

4

WATER

3rd Day 1st Day

1s

tD

ay O

nly

No. 411

MOROMI

WATER YEAST

STEAMING

SHUBO

6

7

Finish!

酒

SAKE KASU

PRESSING

FILTRATION

PASTEURIZATION

STORAGE

BOTTLING

The Sake Brewing Process 3. MAKING KOJI

5. THE MASH—MOROMI

Premium rice, invariably the Yamada Nishiki variety, is first polished incredibly slowly (sometimes for as long as 50–60 hours) in industrial milling machines to remove the husks, proteins, and other impurities that may adversely affect the taste. The degree to which it is polished varies between 30–60% of the kernel remaining, depending on the type of sake to be brewed.

Some of the steamed rice is then used to create koji—rice that has been cultivated with special mold spores called aspergillus oryzae. The koji is left to incubate in temperature- and humiditycontrolled rooms (koji muro) from 36–72 hours in stacks of linen-covered trays. The koji is continuously monitored and mixed by hand at regular intervals with clinical efficiency.

The shubo is then moved to larger tanks, and yet more rice, koji (from a different batch), and brewing water are added in three successive stages over a fourday period, a process known as sandan shikomi. Once completed, the mash will be left to work its magic. The koji will convert the starch in the rice into glucose, which the yeast will then use to create alcohol and carbon dioxide. The conversion of starch to sugar and sugar to alcohol takes place in parallel, all in the same tank. This is known as “multiple parallel fermentation,” and is a process that is unique to sake brewing.

2. WASHING, STEEPING AND STEAMING The milled white rice is carefully washed by hand and allowed to steep before being steamed. The amount of time it is left to soak up water depends on the extent to which it has been polished in the first step. Highly milled rice may only need a few minutes to steep, whereas less polished rice may require several hours or to be left overnight. It is all precisely measured.

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4. PREPARING THE YEAST STARTER—THE SHUBO The finished koji, steamed rice, and water are combined in small vats, and liquid yeast is added.

The temperature of this mini mash is controlled by inserting metal vessels filled with either hot or cold water as required for optimum fermentation. The shubo is left to bubble away for up to two weeks.

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6. PRESSING Once the moromi is completely fermented, the resulting sake is still a viscous gloop of ricey goodness, rather than a fine clear liquid. In order to produce clear sake, it must be passed through an industrial press to

separate the sake lees—the solids, or sake kasu—from the liquid. Before being pressed, however, distilled alcohol may be added to the moromi to draw more flavor and aroma compounds from the lees. The amount of distilled alcohol added (if any at all) depends on the type of sake being produced.

Sake with no additional alcohol added is called junmai sake. The sake lees make up about 25% of the moromi and the excess sake kasu is often used as a nutritional cooking ingredient, so nothing goes to waste.

7. FILTRATION AND PASTEURIZATION The sake is then filtered, pasteurized, and placed in cold storage where it matures before being bottled. Sake that is unpasteurized is known as namazake, and has a sparkling freshness requiring it to be stored chilled.

ILLUSTRATION: TIM WILKINSON

1. POLISHING

KANSAI KURA CLOSEUP

Kirakucho 喜楽長

M

ayuko Kita oversees sake production at this 200-year-old kura (brewery) in rural Shiga, under the watchful eye of her father. She is one of only a handful of female sake brewers in the country and, at just 28 years old, is part of a passionate and youthful movement dedicated to promoting sake to a new generation.

As well as traveling to sake conventions around the world, she collaborates with other young sake makers to release limited-edition brews, and earlier this year, even published a book that introduces the drink to beginners. The pride she takes in her trade is evident, as is the quality of the sake Kirakucho produces. Such is her dedication

SENSEI SAYS ONE OF THE MOST WELL-KNOWN BREWERIES IN SHIGA, KIRAKUCHO CONTINUES TO BE A LEADING LIGHT IN THE RENAISSANCE OF SAKE ACROSS THE REGION. LIKE MANY SHIGA BREWERIES, IT STARTED OUT JUST SELLING BASIC SAKE TO THE LOCAL COMMUNITY—BREWING ITS BEST STOCK FOR GEKKEIKAN IN KYOTO. AS THE SAKE MARKET WANED, HOWEVER, THEY WERE FORCED TO REASSESS AND BEGAN PRODUCING PREMIUM LINES UNDER THEIR OWN BRAND, THUS FORGING A PATH FOR OTHERS TO FOLLOW.

that she even sleeps in the same dorms above the mash tanks as her brewers during the winter brewing season.

Mayuko is keen to get her hands dirty with all aspects of the business, even designing the striking red-and-black labels for their flagship products herself. She believes that sake itself doesn’t need to change, but that efforts in marketing and awareness campaigns for sake generally can help change the public’s perception of what sake is, who it is for, and how to enjoy it.

“What is good for the industry, can only be good for Kirakucho too,” she says.

Shiga-ken, Higashiomi-shi, Ikeda-cho 1129 Tel: 0748-22-2505 kirakucho.jp

Sensei’s Selection 2. Karakuchi Junmai Ginjo

3. Tokujun

4. Junmai Daiginjo

5. Junmai Daiginjo Itoushi

(大吟醸)

(辛口 純米吟醸)

(特純)

(純米大吟醸)

(愛おし)

Highly aromatic and pairs well with appetizers, including carpaccio and other Western dishes.

Sharp and dry, yet with a sweetness derived from the koji, this sake goes well with sashimi.

A robust sake that pairs well with izakaya foods and other bolder dishes.

A premium sake that pairs well with steak and other red meat.

A delicate dryness that perfectly offsets sweeter dishes and stews.

PHOTOS: DANIEL LEE

1. Daiginjo

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25

DISCOVER

Kinosaki

A HOT SPRING A DAY

Discover healing thermal pools and exquisite snow-crab cuisine for the perfect cold-weather remedy.

TEXT: CELIA POLKINGHORNE

T

hey say an apple a day keeps the doctor away, but in Kinosaki, they substitute apples for hot springs, boasting a restorative onsen for every day of the week. Like so many beloved Japanese locales, there is a nostalgic origin myth attached to Kinosaki Onsen. As the legend goes, back in the Asuka period during the seventh century, an injured Oriental white stork landed in the marshes of the area and healed its wounds. Many years later, bathhouses were constructed over these sites to make the curative waters accessible to people, and this is when the oldest onsen in the town—Kouno-yu, or ‘stork bath’—was built.

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There are now many hot springs dotted around this quaint canal village in Hyogo Prefecture lined with cherry and willow trees and teeming with traditional wooden ryokan (inns) with their own private onsen. The most famous, however, are the seven public baths esteemed for their remedial properties and promises of good fortune (bathing in the healing Kouno-yu, for instance, is said to bless your marriage with happiness and longevity).

The water is rich in sodium, calcium, and chloride, a blend purportedly ideal for alleviating muscle and joint aches, digestive disorders, and skin conditions. People have been coming in droves to bathe in these cherished springs since the Buddhist priest

THE PHOTOGENIC, MOMOYAMA-STYLE ARCHITECTURE OF THE ICHINO-YU BATH ECHOES THE GRANDEUR OF A KABUKI THEATER

Onsen Etiquette • Consider visiting the temple Onsenji to say a prayer before bathing.

In the past, it was customary to do so to give thanks to the Buddhist priest Dochi Shonin who first brought attention to the springs during the eighth-century Nara period.

Dochi Shonin first brought attention to them during the eighth-century Nara period.

Spread out between Kinosaki Onsen Station and the base of Mount Daishi, a few hundred meters from one another, bathhouses can be reached on foot, with Kouno-yu being the furthest from the station—about a 15-minute walk. Depending on where you stay, however, it may take longer to make your way to the famed stork bath while getting about in geta (traditional wooden clogs).

One of the little things to love about staying in a tranquil Japanese onsen town

is meandering the picturesque narrow laneways in a cotton yukata (bathrobe), white tabi socks, and slipon geta that are provided at inns and guest houses.

What would normally be the equivalent of walking the streets in pajamas suddenly becomes the norm while in historic Kinosaki, and there’s something therapeutic about being forced to slow down while moseying along in the clunky sandals, hearing the echoing click-clack with each step. There are even public foot spas on the lantern-lit streets where you can slide out of your wooden slippers and soak your weary feet.

If you fancy, you can dip a mesh bag of onsen tamago (hot-spring eggs) in the steamy water, boil them, and eat them on the spot.

Kinosaki locals encourage visitors to think of the entire town as one giant ryokan.

In fact, anyone staying at a local inn can use Kinosaki’s seven public bathhouses for free during their stay with a special pass called a yumepa provided by their accommodation. Many guests even skip their ryokan’s onsen in favor of a sotoyu meguri (bath stroll), roaming around gazing at the classic architecture and trying out the town’s most renowned hot springs.

PHOTOS: © TOYOOKA TOURISM INNOVATION

ONSEN HOPPING THERE ARE SEVEN PUBLIC BATHS TO TAKE A DIP IN, INCLUDING THIS ONE, YANAGI-YU, SAID TO PROMOTE FERTILITY AND SAFE CHILDBIRTH.

• While onsenhopping, don your yukata, tabi socks, and wooden geta and bring a small and large bath towel provided by your accommodation.

(Ensure the left side of your yukata is on the outside with the right side tucked underneath it, or else you’ll be dressed for a Japanese funeral!

• No clothing or bathing suits should be worn inside the bathing area, and be sure to thoroughly wash your body using the shower facilities before entering a hot-spring pool.

• Tattoos are often frowned upon in Japanese onsen, so cover any tattoos with a plaster or bandage before entering the bathing area.

• The small towel given at your accommodation is meant for drying off when leaving the bath. You can place it folded on the top of your head like the locals do or leave it nearby, but make sure it doesn’t fall in the water as it is considered unclean.

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The Seven Public Baths Satono-yu, situated nearest to the train station, is the largest of the town’s bathhouses with a huge variety of indoor and outdoor baths as well as waterfalls, mist rooms, and saunas. The male and female sides switch daily between Japanese and Roman style.

HOURS: 1pm–9pm • CLOSED: Mon • Entry

(without yumepa): ¥800

Jizo-yu is designed to resemble a Japanese lantern and is named after a Buddhist deity that watches over children. Its waters are believed to bestow safety and prosperity on families. This onsen features high ceilings and a contemporary interior. Private family baths can be booked for ¥3,000 per 40 minutes.

HOURS: 7am–11pm • CLOSED: Fri • Entry (without yumepa): ¥600

Yanagi-yu (‘willow bath’) is the town’s smallest public onsen with the hottest water and is said to promote fertility and safe childbirth. It is built from cypress wood and has a traditional atmosphere. There is a small ashiyu (foot bath) next to its entrance.

HOURS: 3pm–11pm • CLOSED: Thu • Entry (without yumepa): ¥600

Ichino-yu is the lucky bath thought to bring success in school and safety while traveling. The photogenic, Momoyama-style building echoes the grandeur of

a kabuki theater and features an outdoor cave bath. Private family baths can be reserved for ¥3,000 per 40 minutes.

HOURS: 7am–11pm • CLOSED: Wed • Entry (without yumepa): ¥600

Goshono-yu (‘imperial palace bath’) is one of Kinosaki’s bigger bathhouses whose architecture was inspired by the Kyoto Imperial Palace. The bath areas and sauna feature large windows that look out onto waterfalls. Outdoor bathing areas are made from natural boulders with underwater seats to sit on and take in the lush scenery.

HOURS: 7am–11pm • CLOSED: 1st & 3rd Thursday of the month • Entry (without yumepa): ¥800

Mandara-yu is the only onsen situated away from the main road of Yunosato Dori. Often said to be the most attractive of the public baths, Mandara-yu offers a very serene hot-spring experience. The waters of Mandara-yu are believed to bring prosperity in business and agriculture.

HOURS: 3pm–11pm • CLOSED: Wed • Entry (without yumepa): ¥600

Kono-yu is situated near the entrance to the ropeway that goes up Mount Daishi. It features an outdoor bath with a view of the surrounding forests and is said to bring good luck for a long and happy marriage.

When layers of icy sleet or even mounds of powdery snow line Kinosaki’s canals, icicles freezing to the twigs and branches of bare winter trees, you know you have arrived in the hot-spring haven during the snow-crab season. Kinosaki has a long, proud tradition of delectable crab (kani) cuisine and winter in this town is bliss for seafood lovers.

Many of the ryokans offer exquisite kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) multi-course crab meals, which are works of edible art, but there are also several top-notch seafood restaurants around the town to choose from. Matsuba crab is the local name for the male snow crab harvested from the Sea of Japan and its plump, sweet flesh is served steamed, raw as sashimi, or even grilled at the table in front of you. Crab hot pot is a standard as is crab sushi and tempura. The fullest flavors, though, come from the kani miso delicacy—crab innards pounded into a miso-like paste and often served in the main body of the shell.

For any non-seafood-lovers, Kinosaki has another prized local specialty in its Tajima beef.

Kobe beef, considered the highest quality in the world—known for its tenderness, rich flavor, and high-density marbling—refers to cuts from specially selected Tajima cattle. Choose from tasty steak, curry, stew, and deep-fried cutlet sets, or sukiyaki and shabu-shabu hot-pot courses. Local chefs will even wow vegetable lovers by working culinary magic with obscure roots and greens like fox turnip, kogomi (fiddlehead ferns), and butterbur. Vegetarians and vegans appreciate the fresh fruit-and-vegetable smoothies at Kinosaki Juice Saika and thoughtful plant-based meals at Cafe & Bar 3rd near the station.

Getting There You can travel to Kinosaki Onsen Station via limited-express JR trains from Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, and Himeji. The Japan Rail Pass and Kansai Wide Rail Pass are valid on these routes. Visitors who do not stay overnight can purchase the yumepa ticket for ¥1,200, which provides unlimited admission to all seven public baths on one calendar day. The ticket can be purchased at any of the bathhouses.

VISITKINOSAKI.COM

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PHOTOS: SNOW CRABS, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/AKKHARAT JARUSILAWONG; ALL OTHERS © TOYOOKA TOURISM INNOVATION

Snow Crab Specialty

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BUSINESS TALK

What the Kids are Wearing From milk deliveryman to CEO of an international kids’ clothing brand, Kansai native Koichi Kimura knows a thing or two about building a business from the ground up. Founder of MIKI House, a global fashion brand since 1971 with its origins in Kansai, Mr. Kimura sat down with us at his Yao headquarters to talk about how it all began.

INTERVIEW & TEXT: KS

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MIKI House has grown into a global brand since you started it nearly half a century ago. Did you set out to achieve this, or has it happened organically?

There was never a plan per se. I have always stuck to my core beliefs and played the cards I was dealt with. When I first started, out I simply wanted to support my family. It wasn’t about setting out to make a global operation at all. Things just took their natural course. A lot of the decisions I made along the way were often a matter of fortuitous timing, and perhaps a little bit of destiny.

PHOTOS: DANIEL LEE

What made you enter the business of kids’ fashion?

When I began, my wife was pregnant and had gone off to live with her mother—as is the custom in Japan— leaving me with a lot of time on my hands. Kids’ clothes were obviously on my mind, but the quality of items available was often poor, or unattractive.

Everything had to be bought in separate stores. Shoe shops, swaddling shops, outdoor-wear stores, etc. I saw a gap in the market for a range of baby and kids clothes that were totally coordinated.

A hat and a pair of shoes to go with a dress for example—all matching or complementing each other. I bought material and hired local housewives to sew the patterns for me. In those days, every household had a sewing machine and often a highly skilled pair of hands to operate them. The quality of their samples was astounding. I knew I was on to something.

Why do you think you have been so successful where others have failed?

Probably because of my single-mindedness! I was delivering milk in the early mornings to subsidize my new business in the early days, getting up at 4:30 am to do my round and then back to work on my clothing business during the day.

I traveled all over Japan, working my way up from Kyushu with my samples and knocking on the doors of prominent clothing stores in each area I visited.

Once I had pinpointed the stores that stocked only the best items, I wanted them to sell my clothes, no matter what.

“If I had walked away after every knockback, none of this would have been possible.”

I was refused countless times but kept going back until they agreed. If I had walked away after every knockback, none of this would have been possible.

I had confidence in my products, but it was often the fact that I was from Osaka that proved hardest to overcome. “Oh, we only sell products from Tokyo…” was what I heard a lot. Changing people’s opinions was hard at first.

By 1987, you had opened stores in Hong Kong, the U.S., and France.

What do you think is the appeal of your products outside of Japan?

The quality. It was always my mission to produce the finest quality items. That means our clothes are expensive, but I will not compromise on quality, ever.

Which is your fastest-growing region outside of Japan?

China is our biggest market right now, along with Taiwan and Hong Kong.

The birthrate in Japan is down to just 9 million from 25 million when we started, compared to China where it is now a massive 180 million. That’s a lot of babies.

How has the online shopping boom affected your business?

Internet shopping is very convenient, of course. I think there is a place for both online and traditional stores, however.

Most of our retail outlets are in the big cities, so being able to reach customers via our online store is crucial, especially if you simply want to exchange an item for one size smaller/larger, etc. We sell our items online, but only domestically.

It is one of our growing departments.

Your headquarters are in Yao city, in the southeast of Osaka prefecture. Are there any local sights you would recommend?

Yao? (laughs). Apart from our store downstairs, there isn’t a lot here. When I built this building (at huge expense), and ordered the basement to be turned into a showroom/store, my staff thought I was crazy. “No-one will come to Yao!” they said. “Better to build a carpark for the workers.” But I was adamant. We had to have a flagship store, I believed.

Now we have MIKI House fans coming from all over the world to shop here.

There is a limited selection in the department stores, of course, but here we have the entire range.

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What’s On  Cultural OSAKA

WHITE HORSE CEREMONY 白馬神事

Sumiyoshi Taisha • Jan 7 In this ceremony unique to Sumiyoshi Shrine, a white horse adorned with celebratory gear is guided by priests while circuiting the four main areas of the shrine grounds then galloping around the shrine precinct. This ceremony is based on a ritual from the Heian period (794 to 1185) when the imperial court believed one would receive good fortune if they saw a white horse in the beginning of the year.

© SUMIYOSHI TAISHA

TIME: 11am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hankai Uemachi Line, Sumiyoshitoriimae Stn; Nankai Line, Sumiyoshi Taisha Stn, 3-min walk • sumiyoshitaisha.net/en

What’s On Guide 32

Osaka

HOE-KAGO GYORETSU PARADE 宝恵かご行列

OSAKA CASTLE ILLUMINAGE 大阪城イルミナージュ

Osaka Castle Park • Dec 1–Mar 3 Head to Nishinomaru garden and enjoy the grandiose view of Osaka Castle splashed with an array of colors and special effects during the 3D projection-mapping extravaganza that is the Osaka Castle Illuminage.

Designed with a samuraiperiod theme, there will also be illuminations with a European townscape motif inspired by the influx of Western culture during the Meiji Restoration. At this family winter event, find traditional Japanese street performances, lightsaber sword plays, food stalls, and many other attractions.

Tourists can receive a discounted entry fee of ¥1,000 by presenting a valid passport.

TIME: 5pm–10pm • ADMISSION:

¥1,200 adults, concessions • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Tanimachi Line, Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn, 10-min walk • illuminagegroup. com/osaka2018-2019

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

Ebisubashi-suji & Surroundings, Osaka • Jan 10 The streets of Minami (south Osaka) come alive as brightly decorated palanquins called hoekago parade to Imamiya Ebisu Shrine. Join in on the fun as national celebrities, beautiful geisha, and puppets from the bunraku theater make their way through the streets as the crowds cheer them on. The parade starts at Soemoncho and travels along Dotonbori, Ebisubashi, Sennichimae-suji, and Takashimaya on its way to the shrine. With shrine bearers roaring and shouting to fire up the crowds and women in festive kimono applauding and encouraging the spectacle, the streets take on an exciting, festive atmosphere that rivals any festival in Japan.

TIME: 10am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway / Nankai /

Kintetsu Namba Stn • ebisubashi. or.jp

DOYA DOYA – BUDDHIST GOOD LUCK CEREMONY

修正会結願法要（どやどや）

Shitennoji Temple • Jan 14 In this fascinating festival held at Shitennoji Temple, hundreds of semi-naked male students scramble to get their hands on religious objects said to bring good luck. This Buddhist event is called Doya Doya – from the sound made by hundreds of stamping feet – and is performed as the closing ceremony of an essential ritual held to bring in the New Year. The real action starts a little after 2pm when talismans are cast from the beams in the Rokujido Hall. At this point, young men wearing nothing but white loincloths, red headbands, and tabi (traditional Japanese socks) jostle with one another to catch the lucky charms.

TIME: 2pm–3:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Tanimachi Line, Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Stn, 5-min walk • shitennoji.or.jp

NEW YEAR ARCHERY CEREMONY 古式弓道射初式

Mozu Hachimangu Shrine • Jan 2 Watch the masters of Japanese archery, or

kyudo, aim at a target 60 meters away in this Shinto ceremony. The event follows a traditional sequence from the archery school of Heki, and features participants, who are practicing kyudo masters from Osaka Prefecture, wearing vividly colored traditional costumes. Typically, shinto ceremonies use a 30-meter target range, which makes this event an especially good opportunity to watch Japanese archery.

TIME: 11am–Noon • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Hanwa Line, Mozu Stn, 10-min walk • mozu8.com

Kyoto ARASHIMAYAMA HANATOUROU (STREET LIGHTING) 嵐山花灯路

Saga & Arashiyama • Dec 8–17 Explore the dimly lit atmospheric paths in the classical neighborhoods of Saga and Arashiyama.

Togetsukyo Bridge, the ever popular tourist spot will be illuminated, diffusing light onto the

What’s On  Cultural

See Kansaifinder.com for more

OSAKA

OSAKA HIKARI-RENAISSANCE 2018 OSAKA光のルネサンス2018

© FESTIVAL OF THE LIGHTS IN OSAKA EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE

Nakanoshima Island • Dec 14–25 Nakanoshima Island will be flooded with a sea of colorful lights in a spectacle that has been described as the greatest free light show in Kansai. Fantastic images will be projected onto the facade of Osaka City Central Public Hall. A romantic illuminated arcade known as “Nakanoshima Illumination Street” will be set up beside the city hall featuring a variety of brightly shining ornaments to set the holiday mood. Taiwanese lanterns from the city of Tainan will create an exotic atmosphere as they swing in the evening breeze. Street-food booths and mobile catering will provide a nice selection of tasty treats. Quality live music and street performances will add a festive touch to this festive event.

TIME: 5pm–10pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Naniwabashi Stn • hikari-kyoen.com/renaissance

backdrop of fall-leafcovered mountains. Don’t forget to stroll through the scenic bamboo forest walkway between Nonomiya Shrine to Okouchi Sanso Villa as thousands of bamboo trees create an ambient canopy. The main walkways will feature a flower arrangement promenade of carefully crafted ikebana (flower arrangement) pieces.

GODAIRIKI-SAN (WEIGHTLIFTING CONTEST) 五大力尊仁王会 餅上げ力 奉納

Daigoji Temple • Feb 23 As part of the GodairikiSan ceremony, participants attempt to please the deity of the temple by lifting a gigantic two-layered kagami-mochi (rice cake).

Male participants will carry 150kg and females 90kg on a large stage constructed in front of the main hall. As the crowds cheer, each participant challenges the record of holding the mochi as long as possible. Those wishing to participate should register at the temple between 9am

TIME: Noon • ADMISSION: ¥800 adults, concessions • ACCESS: Daigo Subway Stn, 10-min walk • daigoji.or.jp

SETSUBUN MIBU KYOGEN 壬生狂言「節分」公開

Mibu Temple • Feb 2 & 3 Kyogen are short plays with exaggerated movements that originated about 700 years ago to spread Buddhist teachings to a wide audience. Mibu Kyogen, or Mibu Dainenju Kyogen specifically, uses no spoken dialogue during the performance. To celebrate the traditional holiday of Setsubun, the Kyogen performance of the same title will be performed live every hour on the hour.

Watch the comical act of a bright red ogre being chased away as handfuls of roasted soybeans are thrown at him.

TIME: 1pm–8pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hankyu line, Omiya Stn, 8-min walk • mibudera.com/eng/ pages/plays.html

SEVEN-LEAF RICE PORRIDGE FESTIVAL 七種神事（七草粥）

Gokounomiya Shrine • Jan 7

Seven-leaf Rice Porridge, otherwise known as Nanakusa-gayu is traditionally eaten on this day to pray for good health.

A simple rice porridge is combined with a mixture of the leaves of seven plants, typically including turnip and radish, but can be modified depending on the region and what is in season. This festival has taken place since the Edo period at Gokounomiya Jinja, a shrine known for its fresh-tasting water which is used to make the porridge.

Bowls of the healthy porridge can be purchased for ¥300.

TIME: 9am (until porridge supply ends) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Nara line, Momoyama Stn, 5-min walk • gokounomiya.kyoto.jp

Hyogo 47 RONIN FESTIVAL 赤穂義士祭

Ako Castle & Surroundings • Dec 14 December 14th marks the anniversary of 47 samurai heroes who took revenge on the death of their lord in the Edo period. This national legend is still

© NARA CITY TOURIST ASSOCIATION

TIME: 5pm–8:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hankyu line, Arashiyama Stn; Randen line, Arashiyama Stn • hanatouro.jp/e/arashiyama

and 11:30am on the day of the festival.

NARA

BURNING MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL 若草山焼き

Jan 26 • Mt. Wakakusa in Nara Park Join this magnificent spectacle where 33 hectares of grassland is turned into a sea of flames.

Heralding the coming spring and attracting millions of people each year, this activity called Wakakusa Yamayaki can be traced back to the 18th century, but its true origin is unknown. Starting with a fireworks display, the whole of Mt. Wakakusa gradually goes up in flames. Before the event, there will be a dance show, a ceremony performed by the Nara fire brigade, and more.

TIME: 6pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Nara Stn, bus to Daibutsuden Kasugataisha-mae, 15-min walk • nara-park. com/yamayaki-en

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What’s On  Cultural OSAKA

TOKA EBISU FESTIVAL 十日戎

© OSAKA CONVENTION & TOURISM BUREAU

Imamiya Ebisu Shrine • Jan 9–11 The Toka Ebisu festival is held all around Kansai, but no place does it bigger and better than Imamiya Ebisu Shrine. Every year, more than one million people make the pilgrimage from all over Kansai and beyond to Imamiya Ebisu Shrine to pray for success in business to Ebisu, the patron god of business and fisheries. Those hoping for his blessing in the new year buy lucky bamboo branches adorned with various lucky items such as special coins, sea bream, and rice bales all decorated by lovely miko (shrine maidens) dressed in white kimono with ornate golden headdresses. The three-day ceremony starts on the 9th on the Eve of Ebisu and the main parade and other festivities take place on the 10th.

TIME: 9am–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Sakaisuji Line, Ebisu-cho Stn, 5-min walk; Nankai Koya Line, Imamiya Ebisu Stn • imamiya-ebisu.jp

KYOTO

ARCHERY CEREMONY 奉射祭

Fushimi Inari Shrine • Jan 12 During this Shinto ceremony, rituals are performed to drive away evil and welcome positive influences.

After a series of rituals are held in the main hall, the archery ceremony takes place outside. A priest shoots a purified arrow in multiple directions.

Subsequently, two other priests shoot arrows aiming at a target mounted on a 15-meter mythical dragon (commonly associated with evil) created by ropes.

TIME: 2pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Inari

Stn; Keihan Fushimi Inari Stn, 5-min walk • inari.jp

much loved by Japanese people – it is on TV, and in films and plays even today.

Visit the hometown of these heroes and see the festival held to pay tribute to the great achievement of the samurai. Witness the grand parade reenacting combat scenes and featuring elegant costumes from this period. The renowned actor, Hideki Takahashi will join the parade to reenact the leader of the clan along with a variety of other entertainment groups. On the eve of the festival, the center of the town will be illuminated with candles and lanterns.

TIME: 10am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free

• ACCESS: JR Banshu-Ako Stn • city.ako.lg.jp/kensetsu/kankou/ akogishisai.html

SETSUBUN SAI – BEANTHROWING CEREMONY 節分祭

Ikuta Shrine • Feb 3 February 3rd is Setsubun which means “the day before the beginning of spring.” It is also the lunar new year’s eve when the bean-throwing ceremony takes place at temples and shrines across Japan.

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Many families still perform the traditional ceremony to scare away all the evil spirits and bring good fortune for the year to come.

Experience a traditional Japanese bean-throwing ceremony at Ikuta-jinja. A Shinto ritual takes place at the main hall from 1:45pm and the bean-throwing starts at 2pm. Popular celebrities perform the act along with 150 other bean throwers. Stage shows will be put on beforehand at noon.

shrine’s maidens offer the first dance. The celebration continues as traditional ceremonies take place over the three-day period.

During this time, many food stands are open and the main building’s 163 ceiling paintings are available for public viewing.

TIME: Depends on event • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Kobe Stn, 3-min walk • URL minatogawajinja.or.jp

Nara

TIME: 1:45pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Sannomiya Stn, 10-min walk • ikutajinja.or.jp

NEW YEAR AT MINATOGAWA SHRINE 湊川神社（楠公さん） 初詣

Minatogawa Shrine • Jan 1–3 Every year, more than a million people visit this shrine dedicated to worshiping the spirit of a brave military commander in hopes of good fortune and positive prospects throughout the year. As the clock strikes midnight and the new year arrives, drums are struck, the first prayers are conducted, and the

SEXY RICE-PLANTING FESTIVAL おんだ祭り

Asukaniimasu Shrine • Feb 4 Onda Matsuri is famously known as the ‘sexy riceplanting festival’ because the day marks the ‘first sun’ indicating the arrival of spring, and fertility and harvest go hand-in-hand.

On this day, people worship the gods so that they might be blessed with a good rice harvest. The ceremony starts with a prayer offering, which is followed by ‘marriage play’ between

What’s On  Cultural PHOTO: BIWAKO VISITORS BUREAU

See Kansaifinder.com for more

SHIGA

KATSUBE FIRE FESTIVAL 勝部の火まつり

Katsube Shrine & Sumiyoshi Shrine • Jan 12 This festival, which has been running for 800 years, stems from an episode during the Kamakura period when an emperor was cured of a disease after an evil mythical dragon was burned away. It is said that the dragon’s body remained in Katsube as its head flew to Fuke where Sumiyoshi Shrine is located. At both shrines, torches that resemble the dragon’s head or body is burned as young men dance wildly to pray for good health. Sumiyoshi Shrine and Katsube Shrine are about a 15-minute walk from one other.

SHIGA

GOKASHO HINA-NINGYO DOLLS 商家に伝わるひな人形めぐり

TIME: 8pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Biwako

Line, Moriyama Stn, 10-min walk • biwakovisitors.jp/event/detail/733

a tengu (goblin) and a human woman. Two male actors; one dressed as a tengu and the other as a woman, pretend to be a married couple copulating.

This part of the festival is very graphic with various sexual positions enacted as well as plenty of spanking. A third person who is a masked priest gives them a helping hand in getting the job done!

TIME: 2pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Kashiharajingu-mae Stn, bus to Asukadaibutsu-mae • asukamura. com/?p=11548

ON-MATSURI おん祭

Kasuga Shrine, Nara • Dec 15–18 The On-Matsuri is a festival held at Wakamiya Shrine, which stands in the precincts of the Kasuga Taisha, one of the oldest shrines in Japan.

Historic pageantry lasts for four days to celebrate the deity of the shrine. On the 17th, the grand parade—Owatarishiki—featuring thousands of participants in traditional costumes starts at noon. In the afternoon after the parade, various performances with traditional music and dance

will be staged near the Nara National Museum until late.

TIME: Depends on event • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Line, Nara Stn, bus to Kasuga-taisha Omotesando • kasugataisha.or.jp/onmatsuri

Wakayama NEW YEAR’S COUNTDOWN & STARLIGHT ILLUSION 2019 ニューイヤーズカウントダウン2019

Wakayama Marina City, Wakayama • Dec 31 Celebrate New Year’s Eve and welcome 2019 with an exciting live music show and the “Starlight Illusion” fireworks display. This is one of the largest New Year’s Eve events in Kansai held annually at Wakayama Marina City. Enjoy the gig with a star DJ from FM 802, a guest band, and local musicians. At the end of the show, a stunning display of fireworks spreading across the sky above Port Europa will celebrate the clock ticking over into the new year.

TIME: 7pm–12:40am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Kainan Stn, bus to Marina City • marinacity.com

OTO MATSURI (FIRE FESTIVAL) お燈まつり

Kamikura Shrine • Feb 6 Two thousand men known as nobori-ko clad in all-white attire will hold torches and run down the 538 stone steps from the peak of Kamikura mountain.

These men have gone through a week-long purification period where they eat only white colored foods such as tofu, rice and fish paste, and refrain from interaction with women.

On the day of the ceremony, the shrine’s doors are closed at 7pm and the fire is distributed to the torches. As the gates open at 8pm, the men rush down the steps, creating a fiery wave that resembles a flying dragon.

Gokasho OmishoninYashiki, Shiga • Feb 1– Mar 21 Hina Matsuri (Girls’ Day Festival) is one of the most important festivals in Japan. It is the day that families pray for the happiness and prosperity of their young daughters. Many families display a set of figurines called hina-ningyo for this day of celebration.

The picturesque town of Gokasho will have various dolls on display at the Ohmi merchants’ houses, which are regularly open to the public as museums. There, visitors will get the chance to admire beautiful dolls, which have been passed down through many generations displayed in historic houses.

TIME: 9:30am–4:30pm (Closed Feb 12 & Mar 11) • ADMISSION: ¥600 (for 3 houses) adults, concessions • ACCESS: JR Biwako Line, Notogawa Stn, bus to Plaza Sanpoyoshi-mae • higashiomi.net/notogawa/466.html

TIME: 8pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Nanki Line, Shingu Stn, 15-min walk • kumanohayatama.jp

PHOTO: HIGASHI OMI TOURIST ASSOCIATION

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Sights & Attractions

Nijo Castle PHOTO: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SEANPAVONEPHOTO

KYOTO Built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo castle is famous for its squeaky “nightingale” floorboards, designed to forewarn of intruders. The whitewashed outer walls and moat encompass several gardens and the beautifully preserved Ninomaru Palace, whose lavishly decorated rooms feature ornate woodwork and stunning wall paintings.

541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward

Osaka Museums

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES This offbeat museum in Ikeda, north of Osaka, pays tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of the instant noodle. Fun, handson activities and, for only 300 yen, you can design your own bespoke cup noodles (takes about 45 mins).

8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda-shi, Osaka • cupnoodles-museum.jp

OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUM Hands-on exhibits introduce themes on space and energy to all ages but the planetarium is the main draw here. Note: The museum will be closed for refurbishment from Dec 18 (to re-open in April 2019).

4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6444-5656

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART, OSAKA Housed beneath the Science Museum and instantly recognisable with its futuristic ground floor entrance, designed

by Argentinian architect César Pelli, the NMAO features works from Cezanne and Picasso to contemporary artists.

4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku • TEL: 066447-4680

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MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND LIVING This museum depicts everyday Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life sized, interactive recreation of an Edo era neighborhood you can explore!

Kita Ward, Tenjinbashi, 6-4-20 • TEL: 06-6242-1170

SUMIYOSHI SHRINE Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Founded in the 3rd century before Buddhism came to the country, it has a distinctive style of shrine architecture— called Sumiyoshi-zukuri—that is free of influence from mainland Asia.

2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi-ku

Monuments and Landmarks

OSAKA CASTLE If you visiting Osaka for the first time, then you are duty bound to visit this 400-year-old castle in the beautiful grounds of the extensive Osaka Castle Park.

The small museum inside offers a great insight into its history.

UMEDA SKY BUILDING One of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, the Floating Garden Observatory connecting its two towers offers 360-degree panoramic views.

Kita-ku, Oyodonaka 1-1-88

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ABENO HARUKAS

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN

Japan’s tallest skyscraper at 300m in height, is home to an observatory, art museum and hotel as well as hundreds of shops.

Giant movie-themed amusement park with thrills and spills for all ages, featuring characters from the Universal stable, including Harry Potter, Spiderman, and the Minions.

TSUTENKAKU TOWER One of Osaka’s most iconic landmarks, presiding over the Shinsekai area in Tennoji. There are observation decks on the 4th and 5th floors, although at just 103m high, is dwarfed by the nearby Abeno Harukas.

1-18-6 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward

Attractions

OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKAN One of the largest public aquariums in the world, with an amazing collection of marine life, including the popular whale shark tank and the mesmerising jellyfish. Allow several hours.

1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 066576-5501 • kaiyukan.com

LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER OSAKA A great place for the kids to let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, small rides and 4D cinema that form this indoor LEGO playground. Inside the Tempozan Marketplace shopping center next to the Osaka Aquarium.

1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 0800100-5346

2 Chome-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward • usj.co.jp

SPA WORLD A giant hot spring theme park with a huge choice of fanciful baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its upper floors. Open 24 hrs.

3-4-24 Ebisu-higashi Naniwa-ku • TEL: 06-6631-0001

SILVER BALL PLANET Japan’s mecca for pinball machines, housing over 100 machines dating from the 1970s to the present day.

Big Step 3F, Nishi-shinsaibashi 1-6-14 • silverballplanet.jp

Nara Museums

NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM Ranging over four buildings with wheelchair access, this museum holds treasures from the Nara period (710 to 784 AD), plus Buddhist and decorative art from around Japan with explanations in English.

Sights & Attractions

See Kansaifinder.com for more NARA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF ART Nara’s main art museum has an extensive collection of Japanese art, with a focus on the Edo and Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate every two to three months and explanations of most pieces are in English. There is a good museum shop and regular free workshops and activities for families. Free for seniors and for foreigners with ID. Monuments and Landmarks

NARA PARK A huge ancient park and the focal point for any visit to Nara. Droves of wild deer will follow you around as you explore the park’s stunning temples, gardens and museums, hoping you may feed them special deer crackers.

TODAIJI Todaiji Temple with its 15m high Buddha is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and draws a steady stream of visitors.

KASUGA-TAISHA SHRINE An ancient shinto shrine, famous for its stunning vermillion colored columns, is approached along an atmospheric forest path, lined with hundreds of stone lanterns.

Kyoto Museums

KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

527 Chayacho, Higashiyama-ku • TEL: 075-525-2473

KYOTO RAILWAY MUSEUM This 30,000 square meter space features 53 engines, ranging from the Japan’s oldest steam locomotive to more recent shinkansen models. Kids will go crazy for the train simulators and interactive dioramas. A must for train buffs of all ages.

Kankijicho, Shimogyo-ku • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp

Attractions

GEAR

A great collection of both Japanese and western modern art, with some excellent temporary exhibitions. Across the road from the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art.

A long-running non-verbal theater show that continues to delight all ages, that mixes mime, dancing, magic, juggling and contemporary special effects.

Sakyo Ward, Okazaki Enshojicho, 26−1 • TEL: 075-761-4111

1928 Blg. 3F, 56 Benkeiishi-cho, Nakagyoku • TEL: 075-254-6520

KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM One of Japan’s oldest museums, housing a permanent collection of Japanese artefacts, treasures and artworks.

TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARK Lots of fun to be had at this old Edo-themed movie park. With a brilliant ninja show, fun staged samurai fights and the chance to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets, it’s a great afternoon out.

10 Uzumasa Higashihachiokacho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto • toei-eigamura.com

The Museum of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka OSAKA Regarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum for ceramic enthusiasts. Located in leafy Nakanoshima, next to the iconic Central Public Hall, the permanent collection features items from China and Korea as well as Japan. A special exhibition of ceramic ‘object portraits’ by photographer Eric Zetterquist runs from Dec 8 thru Feb 11.

The onsite tea room affords views of the rose garden and serves refreshments using Royal Copenhagen porcelain.

1 Chome-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita, Osaka • Tel: 06-6223-0055

KYOTO AQUARIUM A modern aquarium in Umekoji Park, with aquatic creatures presented across twelve different themed areas. Great for a rainy-day activity or for families with young children.

Also convenient for the Railway Museum.

35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • kyoto-aquarium.com

of popular Japanese children’s character Anpanman. Great for young kids.

1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo-ku • Tel: 078-341-8855 Monuments and Landmarks

HIMEJI CASTLE Perched upon a hill where its towers can be seen for miles, this picturesque fortress is nicknamed Shirasagi-jo (“White Heron Castle”) because of its brilliant, white exterior and unique tower structuring.

Himeji-shi, 68 Honmachi

Attractions

NUNOBIKI HERB GARDENS & ROPEWAY Enjoy the stunning ropeway ride, before exploring the charming strolling herb gardens and greenhouse exhibits at the top of Mt. Rokko, tha affords sweeping views across the city below.

Restaurant on-site.

Chuo-ku Kitanocho 1-4-3 • TEL: 078-2711160

Shiga Museums

MIHO MUSEUM A stunning museum, designed by renowned architect I. M. Pei and located far from the crowds in the hills around Shigaraki, requires a bit of a trek to reach, but is absolutely worth it. Named after Koyama Mihoko, one of the richest women in Japan and the founder of the museum.

Shigaraki, Tashiro Momodani 300 • miho.jp

Hyogo

Monuments and Landmarks

ENRYAKUJI Museums

KOBE FASHION MUSEUM Japan’s first museum dedicated to the world of fashion, situated on Rokko Island, housing a large public library on its 3rd floor.

2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-858-0050

KOBE ANPANMAN CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALL Fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland area, dedicated to the surreal world

Sitting atop Mt.Hiei and accessible by cable car, the UNESCO World Heritage site Enryakuji, is the sacred home of the Tendai monks and is simply stunning during the fall leaves season.

HIKONE CASTLE One of the best preserved examples remaining in Japan, this picturesque 400-year-old castle overlooks Lake Biwa in the small city of Hikone.

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T&C4302, 1974. ALUMINUM, STAINLESS STEEL, BRASS, WIRE…ETC. 26 X 10 X 10 CM COURTESY OF TEZUKAYAMA GALLERY

WATERFALL, 1961. ALL M.C. ESCHER WORKS © THE M.C. ESCHER COMPANY, THE NETHERLANDS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WWW.MCESCHER.COM

What’s On  Art & Exhibitions

Tension and Compression – Morio Shinoda Tezukayama Gallery, Osaka • Until Dec 15

Miracle Escher Works from the Israel Museum

Japanese sculptor Morio Shinoda, active on both the domestic and international art scene since the 1950s, creates abstract metal sculptures depicting women or structures suspended in air by wires. Throughout his career, Shinoda has presented a multitude of works under the theme of Tension & Compression, relishing the dynamic nature of contrasting elements. In the 1972 book, ‘Declaration of Pleasure’, Shinoda said, “My works are viable only in the active acquisition of pleasure, or in complete abstinence.” This exhibition consists of around 20 of Shinoda’s works created throughout his career, beginning in the 1960s, allowing viewers an opportunity to witness the evolution of his style and manner of expression over the years.

Morio Shinoda exhibition • OPEN: 12pm–7pm • CLOSED: Sun, Mon & holidays • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Namba Stn, Exit 26-C, 5-min walk • TEL: 06-6534-3993 • tezukayama-g.com/en

Abeno Harukas Art Museum, Osaka • Until Jan 24

Dutch graphic artist Maurits Cornelis Escher’s mathematically inspired works have wowed audiences around the world for decades. During an age where computers weren’t yet utilized as a design tool, Escher created art featuring motifs like impossible objects, explorations of infinity, reflection, symmetry, perspective, truncated and stellated polyhedra, hyperbolic geometry, and tessellations. In this exhibition, held to commemorate the 120th anniversary of the artist’s birth, the Abeno Harukas Art Museum is showing some 150 works by Escher, including some of his earliest pieces and autographed drawings. Visitors can appreciate the immense value of precise graphic representations that laid the foundation for modern design trends and techniques.

Escher exhibition • OPEN: 10am–8pm (until 6pm Sat, Sun & holidays) • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • ACCESS: Short walk from Tennoji Stn • TEL: 06-4399-9050 • escher.jp

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Osaka CHRISTIAN BOLTANSKI – LIFETIME NMAO – The National Museum of Art, Osaka • Until May 6 While composed from decades of artworks by Christian Boltanski, one of France’s preeminent artists, this exhibition functions as an installation that can be viewed as one giant work of art. Christian Boltanski is a multi-talented artist renowned for his sculptures, photographs, and films, but is most well-known for his photography installations.

Since the late 1960s, he has explored the themes of memory and death, often focusing on the Holocaust in abstract but compelling ways. “Art-making is not about telling the truth,” he said, “but making the truth felt.” This retrospective covers his contemporary, conceptual creations from the past 50 years and counting.

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Christian Boltanski exhibition • OPEN: 10am–5pm Tuesday-Sunday (until 8pm Fri & Sat), last entry 30mins before closing • ADMISSION: ¥900 • ACCESS: Fukushima Stn, 10-min walk • TEL: 06-6447-4680 • nmao.go.jp/en

Kyoto PORTRAITS OF THE TOYOTOMI CLAN AND ITS VASSALS Kodaiji Sho Museum, Kyoto • Until May 6 Léonard Tsuguharu Toyotomi Hideyoshi was once the most powerful person in Japan. In the 16th century, he and his men unified the country after centuries of upheaval. Yet his family’s reign was short-lived; after his death, his followers split into rival factions once more.

Hideyoshi’s son was defeated and his stronghold, Osaka Castle, was destroyed.

Through all this betrayal and chaos, Hideyoshi’s wife Nene managed to maintain the family legacy from her sanctuary at Kodaiji.

Among her deeds was the

preservation of paintings of Hideyoshi and other important figures involved with the Toyotomi clan.

These ephemeral portraits of revered historical figures remind us of the short but significant lives they led.

Exhibition of Toyotomi Clan portraits • OPEN: 9:30am–10pm (hours may vary) • ADMISSION: ¥300 • ACCESS: Gion-Shijo Stn, 13-min walk • TEL: 075-561-1414 • kodaiji.com/museum

Mie KAWABATA YASUNARI AND YOKOMITSU RIICHI EXHIBITION Mie Prefectural Art Museum, Mie • Until Dec 16 Yasunari Kawabata and Riichi Yokomitsu were two writers active throughout Japan during the early 20th century. With a handful of other young writers, the two men started a prewar Japanese literary group called Shinkankakuha, which focused on exploring “new impressions” or “new

What’s On  Art & Exhibitions

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Graphics in Vienna around 1900 – New Design for a New Way of Life MoMAK – The National Museum of Modern Art Kyoto • Until Feb 24

ベルトルト·レフラー（編） 『ディ·フレッヒェ （平面） －装 飾デザイン集 第Ⅱ巻』 1910/11年 京都国立 近代美術館

アントワーヌ＝ジャン・グロ《アルコレ橋のボナパルト （1796年11月17日）》1796年 Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (musée du Louvre) / Hervé Lewandowski /distributed by AMF-DNPartcom

Need more Art? See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

The Art of Portraiture in the Louvre Collections Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts, Osaka • Until Jan 14

Portraits have been created throughout history as a way to capture the essence of influential people, commemorate their existence, and demonstrate their power. This exhibition features some 110 portraits borrowed from the Louvre Museum collection. Items on display include 3,000-year-old masks excavated from Ancient Egyptian coffins, paintings and sculptures representing ancient figures like Marie Antoinette, and numerous other masterpieces.

Portrait exhibition from the Louvre • Open: 9:30am–5pm (last entry 30 mins before closing) • Closed: Mon • Admission: ¥1,600 • Access: Tennoji Stn, 5-min walk • Tel: 064301-7285 (Osaka City Call Center) • osakaart-museum.jp/en

perceptions” in the writing of Japanese literature. This exhibition consists of works related to this pioneering, anti-establishment movement.

This expansive collection exemplifies Viennese fin de siècle (turn-of-the-century) graphic design.

Between the initiation of the Vienna Secession movement in 1897 and the outbreak of World War I in 1914, Viennese artists like Gustav Klimt and Josef Hoffmann endeavored to create new forms of expression suitable for the modern age.

The technological advances in printing plus the growing popularity of the magazine industry led to breakthroughs in art both aesthetically and philosophically. Also exhibited are plaster sculptures by Richard Luksch and priceless furniture created by Adolf Loos. This incredible collection was donated

by Hiraaki Akira, founder of an apparel company, from his private collection in 2015.

Graphic Design exhibition • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (until 8pm Fri & Sat), last entry 30mins before closing • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: Higashiyama Stn, 10-min walk • TEL: 075-761-4111 • www.momak.go.jp

Nara

Nara National Museum is displaying works related to and used during the On Matsuri. These represent the central Wakamiya deity, the celebratory procession, and festivities. In addition to works of art, cultural artifacts associated with the Kasuga faith will be exhibited. Immerse yourself in the four-day harvest festival’s almost 1,000-year history just in time for it to begin on December 15.

ON-MATSURI AND THE SACRED ART OF KASUGA

On-Matsuri and the Sacred Art of Kasuga • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun • ADMISSION: ¥520 • ACCESS: Kintetsu Nara Stn, 15-min walk • TEL: 0505542-8600 • www.narahaku.go.jp

Japanese literature exhibition • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm • CLOSED: Mon • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: JR Tsu Stn, 10-min walk • TEL: 059-227-2100 • bunka.pref.mie.lg.jp/art-museum

Nara National Museum, Nara • Until Jan 20 The On Matsuri is a beloved annual festival held every December at Kasuga Wakamiya Shrine and surroundings in Nara. Renowned for its traditional music and dance—which have been named Important Cultural Properties—as well as an elaborate display of ancient costumes, the festival is a grand visual spectacle. The

Wakayama THE KOKUGA SOSAKU KYOKAI: CELEBRATING THE CENTENNIAL OF ITS BIRTH The Museum of Modern Art, Wakayama • Until Dec 16

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Kokuga Sosaku Kyokai (National Painting Creation Association) in Kyoto. It was first formed by five Japanese painters in 1918 and aimed to give artists a forum for free, uninhibited creation that would not be limited by the constraints of existing trends, rules, and values. In this retrospective exhibition, visitors are invited to view around 90 works created by members of this artists’ association, including pieces that have been dubbed Important Cultural Property by the Agency for Cultural Affairs. Common motifs of these works include natural landscapes and women dressed in traditional Japanese fashion popular during the early 20th century.

National Painting Creation Association Retrospective • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm • CLOSED: Mon • ADMISSION: ¥800 • ACCESS: JR Wakayama Stn, bus to Kencho-mae stop, 2-min walk • TEL: 073-436-8690 • momaw.jp/language/english

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What’s On  Live Music ROBERT GLASPER TRIO Jan 9 Three-time-Grammy-winning American singer, pianist, and record producer Robert Glasper brings his unique style of jazz hiphop to Japan, along with DJ Jahi Sundance. Hailed as a pioneer in this jazz alternative genre, the keyboardist has earned rave reviews from the likes of Rolling Stone magazine: “Robert Glasper heads down the fraught path of hip-hop jazz and gets it right… it feels like a blueprint forward.”

Glasper is joined in his trio by the highly sought after New York bassist Vicente Archer, and US drummer Damian Reid, a musician who it is claimed plays with a ‘controlled fury.’

Earlier this year, Glasper teamed up with other musical friends to put out the album R+R=NOW. Glasper says this album tells “our story from our point of view.

Everybody’s sound is so different, but we all come from the same concrete garden. It’s a very honest, fluid sound that rings of hip-hop, EDM, jazz, at times – hell – reggae ... a bunch of cats that respect each other so much that we always pass the ball.”

US jazz hip-hop keyboardist • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Jazz Hip-Hop • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥8,800/¥9,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

DON BROCO

Rock & Pop KINOCO HOTEL Dec 8 & 9 Japanese retro rock revival group-sounds quartet Shangri-La, Osaka • Group sounds • 7pm • ¥3,800 (2 nights ¥7,500) • TEL: 06-6535-5569

KING CRIMSON Dec 9 & 10 Seminal 70’s prog-rock pioneers Grand Cube, Osaka • Prog rock • TIME: TBA • ¥16,000/¥20,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888

BULL ZEICHEN 88

DON BRACO

JAKIGAN MEISTER

Dec 18 UK band with Coldrain and Man With a Mission

Dec 22 & 23 Japanese rock singer & guitarist

Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock • 6:30pm • ¥5,500/¥6,500 • TEL: 03-3475-9999

Muse, Osaka • Rock • 5:30pm Dec 22; 4:30pm Dec 23 • ¥6,000 • TEL: 06-6245-5389

ALAN WALKER

BLACK PINK

Dec 19 Alan Olav Walker aka DJ Walkzz

Dec 24 Korean-pop girl vocal group

Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Electro House • 7pm • ¥8,500/¥9,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888

ZAZEN BOYS Dec 20 Japanese indie-math-rock band

Dec 10 Japanese rock four-piece

Club Quattro, Osaka • Indie rock • 7pm • ¥4,000/¥4,500 • TEL: 06-63413525

Muse, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥4,500 • TEL: 06-6245-5389

OBLIVION DUST

DRAGON ASH Dec 15 Japanese rap-rock group since 1996 Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rap rock • 6:30pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 066882-1224

THE BACK HORN Dec 15 Japanese rock band’s 20thanniversary tour

Dec 22 Reformed Japanese alternative-rock band Club Quattro, Osaka • Rock • 6pm • ¥5,940/¥6,480 • TEL: 0570-200-888

MR. CHILDREN Dec 22 & 23 Popular Japanese pop rock quartet formed 1989 Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Pop rock • 5pm Dec 22; 4pm Dec 23 • ¥8,600 • TEL: 0570-200-888

Namba Hatch, Osaka • Rock • 6pm • ¥4,200 • TEL: 06-6357-3666

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Kyocera Dome, Osaka • K-pop • 4pm/6pm • ¥7,800 • TEL: 0570-200888

BONNIE PINK Dec 24 Japanese-pop singersongwriter Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Pop • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥8,000/¥13,000 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

ARRESTED DEVELOPMENT Dec 28 Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Hip-Hop • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥9,800/¥10,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

THE ALFEE Dec 29 Japanese pop-rock trio Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Pop rock • 5pm • ¥7,560 • TEL: 06-6341-3525

HOTEI Dec 29 & 30 Japanese singer & guitarist Orix Theater, Osaka • Rock • 5:30pm Dec 29; 5pm Dec 30 • ¥8,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888

Dec 18 British rock band Don Broco was formed in Bedford, England in 2008 with Rob Damiani (lead vocals and electronics), Simon Delaney (guitar), Tom Doyle (bass), and Matt Donnelly (drums and vocals). Their band’s debut album Priorities was released on 13 August 2012, though it was another three years before the follow-up Automatic in 2015. Eager fans waited a further three years to hear new material from their latest offerings in the album Technology released February 2018.

Technology is a 16-track album, which features a track title ¥, and reached the top spot on the UK rock and metal charts as well as number one on the UK general album charts.

Not a straight-forward rock sound, Don Broco also has elements of indie, pop, new wave, and metal, which together blend for a very interesting musical experience.

British rock band with Coldrain and Man with a Mission • Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock • 6:30pm • ¥5,500/¥6,500 • TEL: 03-3475-9999

What’s On  Live Music

See Kansaifinder.com for more KINOCO HOTEL Dec 8 & 9 Japanese female group-sounds retro psychedelic-rock four piece Kinoco Hotel play two nights at Osaka’s Shangri-La. The energetic band played their first live show in Tokyo in 2007. Led by vocalist Marianne Shinonome alongside guitarist Isabelle Kamogawa, drummer Fabienne Inawashiro, and bassist Julietta Kirishima, they released their major debut album in 2010 titled Marianne No Yuutsu (Marianne’s Melancholy). Actively touring and playing at festivals all over Japan since then, the band uses 60’s-sounding fuzz guitar for what

PORNOGRAFFITTI Dec 30 & 31 Japanese rock duo from Onomichi formed 1994 Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Rock pop • 7pm Dec 30; 10:30pm Dec 31 • ¥8,640 • TEL: 0570-200-888

KUMI ADACHI & SAKURAKO TAKASHIMA Jan 4 Japanese rock fusion guitarist collaboration Live Spot Rag, Kyoto • Rock Fusion • 7:30pm • ¥3,840/¥4,800 • TEL: 075-241-2022

ORANGE RANGE Jan 6 Japanese hip-hop-rock band Orix Theater, Osaka • Hip-hop rock • 5:30pm • ¥5,800 • TEL: 0570-200-888

ROTTENGRAFFTY Jan 6 Kyoto band’s 20thanniversary tour Muse, Kyoto • Rock • 5:30pm • ¥3,610 • TEL: 075-223-0389

PUFFY × ASAKO TOKI Jan 11 Japanese pop duo x Japanese singer and songwriter Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Pop • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,800/¥7,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

ARASHI Jan 11–13 Japanese pop vocal group

they call a “biting punk sound and addictive beat.”

At the beginning of this year, the band put out a special live 2 CD and DVD set celebrating their 10-year anniversary. As part of the celebrations, they last year released an album of early songs re-recorded (plus one new song).

The album is called Play Girl Dai Makyo.

Japanese four-piece group-sounds rock band • Shangri-La, Osaka • 7pm • ¥3,800; 2 nights ¥7,800 • TEL: 06-6535-5569

Kyocera Dome, Osaka • Pop • 4pm/6pm Jan 11 & 12; 4pm Jan 13 • ¥9,500 • TEL: 0570-033-366

THE MUGGLES Every Fri & Sat Mellow ballads, classic rock, and dynamic rock-n-roll from Osaka-based jamming band Woodstock Café, Ashiya • Group sounds • Admission Free (¥2,000 for 2 drinks + snack) • TEL: 079-734-1044

Jazz & Blues JOSHUA BREAKSTONE Dec 7 & Jan 4 US jazz guitarist and special guests

SAORI YANO Dec 28 Japanese jazz saxophonist Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • Jazz • 7:30pm/9pm • ¥5,600/¥6,000 • TEL: 06-6342-5821

ROBERT GLASPER TRIO WITH DJ JAHI SUNDANCE Jan 9 US Jazz hip-hop artist Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Jazz hip-hop • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥8,800/¥9,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

MAXIME COMBARIEU Jan 11 French jazz pianist Blue Note, Nara • Jazz • 6:30pm • ¥3,000 • TEL: 074-227-8230

Bonds rosary, Kyoto • Jazz • 7:30pm • ¥1,400/¥2,900 • TEL: 075-285-2859

NISHIZAKI KAYOKO Dec 13 Japanese trumpeter’s Christmas special Live Spot Rag, Kyoto • Jazz • 7:30pm • ¥5,400 • TEL: 075-241-0446

T-SQUARE Dec 19–24 Japanese Jazz Fusion band formed 1978 Chicken George, Kobe • Fusion • 7pm Dec 19–21; 5pm Dec 22–24 • ¥6,000 • TEL: 078-332-0146

Need more live music?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

KING CRIMSON Dec 9 & 10 2018 marks the 50th anniversary of one of the most influential bands to come out of the UK. King Crimson is an English progressive-rock band cited by both contemporaries and recent artists as having an impression on their music.

Although the band has undergone numerous lineup changes over the last five decades, the group coming to Japan for an impressive 13-date tour features founding member Robert Fripp (guitar) plus early members Jakko Jakszyk (guitar) and Mel Collins (sax and flute).

Japanese audiences will also recognize Tony Levin (bass and stick) and Pat Mastelotto (percussion) who have toured Japan with their group The Stick Band (although, Levin originally joined King Crimson in the 1980s).

Fifty years ago, Jimi Hendrix reportedly called them the best band in the world.

Have they still got what it takes to hold that title? After a recent live show in the UK, a local media outlet confirmed: “They absolutely remain at the top of their game as prog royalty. Phenomenal.”

Seminal 70’s prog-rock pioneers • Grand Cube, Osaka • Prog rock • TIME: TBA • ¥16,000/¥20,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888

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What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife DEC 30 (SUN) NAMURA ZOSEN ATOCHI

PETER VAN HOESEN

2018 has been an amazing year for music in Osaka, and it’s time to gear up for the New Year countdown! Belgian producer Peter van Hoesen is returning to Osaka for the Star Festival 2018 happening the day before New Year’s Eve. One half of the duo Sendai, van Hoesen is known for his innovative approach to dance music. He’ll be spinning his unique style of techno with support from British producer Metrik. They’ll be joined by Tokyo-indie pop group Yahyel, EYE of the legendary Osaka band The Boredoms, and Osaka native Aoki Takamasa, whose music was featured at Paris Fashion week in 2016. Get your tickets now for one of the hottest final club events of the year!

The Star Festival 2018 Closing (Techno/Electro) • ACTS: Peter Van Hoesen, Yahyel, Metrik, EYE, Aoki Takamasa + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,600/1D (ADV: ¥4,100/1D) • WHERE: Kitakagaya • TEL: 06-4702-7085 • namura.cc

METRIK

December 4 (TUE)

BIG CAT Mura Masa Japan Tour 2018 (Electronic) • Mura Masa + more • Open: 6:30pm • Admission: ¥7,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066258-5008 • bigcat-live.com

7 (FRI)

ALZAR Ldg×Ring – Boshke Beats×Ness Release Tour in Osaka – (Techno) • DJs: Alex Tolstey, Master Out, Ness, Tez, Yuta, Saki + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (W/Tourist Visa & Passport: ¥700/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 090-69608527 • alzar.jp

CIRCUS Lawrence Illusions Release Tour in Osaka (Techno/House) • DJs: Lawrence, Ono, Mitsuyas + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥2,600/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

8 (SAT)

CIRCUS

Mall Grab Japan Tour 2018 Mall Grab × Tofubeats × Licaxxx (Electronic) • DJs: Mall Grab, Tofubeats + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

COMPUFUNK RECORDS Untitled (Techno) • DJs: Ryosuke, Masanori Ikeda, Dnt, Compufunk + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Kitahama • Tel: 06-63146541 • compufunk.com

DUBLIN GARDEN Christmas DJ Party 2018 (House/Techno) • DJs: Noring, Ki6 a.k.a Yoshihiro Kimura, Naluu + more • Open: 6pm–11:30pm • Admission: ¥1,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 6-6213-1122 • irishpubdublinbay.com

TROOP CAFE Main of 20th Anniversary feat. Satoshi Tomiie (House) • DJs: Satoshi Tomiie + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: Free • Where: Kobe • Tel: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe.jp

9 (SUN)

JOULE Good Fellows (House/Techno) • DJs: Osawa Shinichi, Ikokai, Hiloco, Analog4 + more • Open: 3pm-9pm • Admission: ¥3,600 /1D (ADV: ¥3,100/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule.com

14 (FRI)

EXODUS

CIRCUS

Onosim 3rd Anniversary Blast Natural Disaster (Psychedelic Trance)

Hybrid Mind Japan Tour 2018 Circus Loves Drum&Bass in Osaka (Drum&Bass)

• Live: Transient Disorder, Spectra Sonics • DJs: Yuji, Yuki, Shiva + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,500 • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6532-9385 • exodus728.com

• DJs: Hybrid Mind + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,100/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

NOON + CAFE

Do it Jazz! 12th Anniversary Special (Jazz/Crossover)

Beautiful Universe #2 (House/ Techno)

42

• DJs: Hiroshi Watanabe, GoodCool, Milk Bros, Cool Surf, Wise + more • Open: 12am–8pm • Admission: ¥2,600/1D • Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-6373-4919 • noon-cafe.com

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

METRO • Acts: Jaxx Madicine, Kyoto Jazzy Blue Tribe, Masaki Tamura,

Kazuhiro Inoue + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

¥2,500/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

15 (SAT)

Tight 20th Anniversary Osaka (Hip Hop/Abstract/Dub)

CAFÉ ABSINTHE Enor (House) • DJs: Dimitri, Naoto, Masaaki, Naoya + more • Open: 7pm–12am • Admission: ¥1,000 • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6534-6635 • cafeabsinthe.jp

CIRCUS Lark feat. Gulp (Techno) • DJs: Gulp, Spot, Yoske + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (W/Flyer: ¥2,000) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

TRIANGLE • Acts: Kuranaka aka 1945, Naga, Quietstorm, Yas, Psycho Patch + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,500/1D (ADV: ¥3,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066212-2264 • triangleosaka.com

SOCRATES Out of Base vol.17 (Psychedelic Trance) • DJs: Suzi, Hiroto, Maro, Deep Fryer + more • Open: 10:30pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-254-6210 • sound-powder.com

JOULE

WORLD KYOTO

Tipsy-SM X mas in Osaka!

(Open Format) *Lesbians, Bisexuals, Heterosexuals Ladies Only Party

Kitsune Bounenkai Night (Disco)

• DJs: TBA • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,700/1D (ADV: ¥3,200/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule. com

• DJs: Lindstorm, Shinya, Kazuya Imoto, Nazanae + more • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥3,500/1D (ADV: ¥3,000/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-213-4119 • world-kyoto. com

16 (SUN)

METRO

COMPUFUNK RECORDS

Bong Bros Records presents Born Free vol. 22(Alternative Hip Hop)

Compufunk Records feat. Fit Siegel (Techno)

• Acts: Backroom, Takatsuki Posse, Bong Bros, Road to Load, Gajiro, Dan + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (ADV:

• DJs: Fit Siegel, Mitsuki, Cota, Compufunk + more • Open: 6pm– 12am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Kitahama • Tel: 06-63146541 • compufunk.com

See Kansaifinder.com for more 17 (MON)

METRO Sequence. (Electro/Techno/House) • DJs: Shin, Sota, Yutaro, Shintaro Fujita + more • Open: 9:30am • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

21 (FRI)

METRO Connected Underground (Techno/ Tech House/Juke) • DJs: Fulltono, Compufunk, Ryoma Sasaki, Ouchi S, Koichi, Wataru Horiuchi + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,200/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

22 (SAT)

JOULE Sushi presents AC Slater (Bass House) • DJs: AC Slater, Jaxx Da Fishworks, Yashima, Idiot Yuuka, Edogaa + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,400/1D (ADV: ¥2,900/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule.com

METRO DJ Colaboy presents Homesick 38 (Electro/House) • DJs: Yakenohara, Okadada, Whasman, Nutman, Colaboy + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,800/1D (ADV: ¥3,300/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

NOON + CAFE Niagara (House/Techno) • DJs: Kza, Kota, Akihiro + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-6373-4919 • noon-cafe.com

23 (SUN/ HOLIDAY)

CIRCUS Fantastik (Hardstyle/Rave/Hardtek) • Acts: Morphonics, Caz, M.Minami, Linda, Yuko Urameshi, Metronom, Numb’n’Dub + more • Open: 11:30pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

OCTAVE Kikikaikai (House/Techno/Tribal) • Acts: Kihira Naoki, Mdm Columbia, Daichi, Dsk, Tossy, Piper + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D • Where: Kyoto • facebook.com/ octavekyoto

PICCADILLY Dropgun / Retro Vision Japan Tour in Osaka (Future House) • DJs: Dropgun, Retro Vision + more • Open: 4pm–10pm • Admission: ¥4,500

• Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com

24 (MON/HOLIDAY)

JOULE Club Joule & ATG presents Lucas & Steve (Future House) • DJs: Lucas & Steve + more • Open: 2pm–9pm • Admission: ¥5,100/1D (ADV: ¥4,400/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule.com

What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife • Admission: ¥3,500/1D (ADV: ¥2,800/1D, Entry Before 11pm: ¥3,000/1D) • Where: Kitahama • Tel: 06-6314-6541 • compufunk.com

MAHARAJA MINAMI Maharaja All Mixxx Guest DJ John Robinson (Disco/Techno/House) • DJs: John Robinson + more • Open: 7pm–2am • Admission: Men: ¥4,000, Women: ¥3,000 • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-4704-8066 • maharaja-m.jp

NAMBA HATCH

TROOP CAFÉ

A Hundred Birds Orchestra Dance Music meets Orchestral Unit on Christmas 2018 (Orchestra/House)

Lasting 10 Years Countdown Eve Party (House/Techno)

• Live: A Hundred Birds Orchestra feat.Ten, Sugami, Stella, Sweep & MC Gebo, Yoku + more • Open: 8pm • Admission: ¥4,500/1D • Where: Namba • Tel: 06-4397-0572 • nambahatch.com

28 (FRI)

CIRCUS 1 Night 1 DJ – DJ Nobu Open to Last – (Techno)

• DJs: Fumiya Tanaka, Masafumi Onishi, Soichi + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: TBA • Where: Kobe • Tel: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe.jp

WORLD KYOTO World Peace Love #7 Showtek in Kyoto (EDM) • DJs: Showtek + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥5,500/1D (ADV: ¥6,000/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075213-4119 • world-kyoto.com

• DJs: Nobu • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

January

TROOP CAFE

12 (SAT)

Phc meets Tropicalis (Bass/ Techno/World) • Acts: Prabumi, Kazuma, Halptribe, Zumbo + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (ADV: ¥2,000/1D, Under23yrs: ¥1,500/1D) • Where: Kobe • Tel: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe.jp

29 (SAT)

CIRCUS

EXODUS Trancist 7th Anniversary Party (Psychedelic Trance) • Live: Cylon • DJs: Hanabi + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,500 • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-65329385 • exodus728.com

February

DEC 30 (SUN)

COMPUFUNK RECORDS MIDI_sai is bringing it again this year! DJ Stingray, AKA Drexciyan DJ Stingray, AKA Sherard Ingram will be donning the mask and tearing up the club with some of the best Detroit techno. Ingram is known for his dark style of Detroit electro/techno and his work with Drexcia and Urban Tribe. The American-born Beijing-based act Osheyack will be performing his unique blend of industrial/techno/ gabber. They will be supported by some of Osaka’s finest. Ka4u—the brain behind MIDI_sai—will be joined by Portal, Distest, Shakaitchi, and more. Compufunk records, one of the oldest record shops in Amemura, moved to Kitahama in 2017 and is the venue for this year’s party. MIDIsai has become the premier underground party, consistently bringing the best local and international acts for their year-end parties. It’s guaranteed to be a good time.

Midi_sai Year-end Special! feat. DJ Stingray & Osheyack (Techno/Breakcore/Rave) • ACTS: Stingray, Osheyack , Ka4u, Portal, Distest, Shaka-ichi, Technoman + more • OPEN: 8pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,500/1D (ADV: ¥2,800/1D; Entry Before 11PM: ¥3,000/1D) • WHERE: Kitahama • TEL: 06-6314-6541 • compufunk.com

Club Snoozer Osaka 2018 Closing Party! (Electro/Dance/House) • DJs: Soichiro Tanaka, Hisashi the Kid • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,100 /1D (ADV: ¥2,600) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

WEST HARLEM Toshinose (House/Techno) • Acts: Tanukeep & G, Toshiki, Masahiko Takeda + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 050-10160099 • kyotosalsa.com facebook: westharlem

8 (FRI)

TRIANGLE Critical Sound Osaka supported

by Trippin Factory (Drum&Bass) • Acts: Kasra, 9Castle, Takaki, Fuse, Giddlah Selecta, Shaka-ichi, Naga, Yanmah + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,600/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D, Foreigners: ¥1,600/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62122264 • triangleosaka.com

30 (SUN)

COMPUFUNK RECORDS Midi_sai Year-end Special! feat, DJ Stingray & Osheyack (Techno/ Breakcore/Rave) • Acts: Stingray, Osheyack , Ka4u, Portal, Distest, Shaka-ichi, Technoman + more • Open: 8pm

DJ STINGRAY

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

43

Food & Drink

Fylgdu Mér Osaka OSAKA ETHNIC

This uber-stylish eatery gets its name from the Icelandic for “follow me.” Follow your taste buds here and enjoy beautifully arranged mediterranean and middle eastern dishes, and cold pressed juices. Their meze plate lunch with pita bread (¥1,800) is a delicious assortment of meze-style tapas, including falafel, kofta, avocado hummus, and a curry-infused soup. The interior is sleek and modern, with extremely low lighting. The minimalism continues on the outside too, so much so that you could easily walk past without noticing this culinary oasis.

1-13-17 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 06-4394-8715 • fylgdumer.jp/osaka

Osaka SHINSAIBASHI PIZZERIA DA TIGRE A down-to-earth pizzeria serving up a tasty range of authentic, sensibly priced Napoli-style pizzas. Pizzas are ordered via a ramen shop-style ticket machine. Sit at their u-shaped counter or takeaway.

ITALIAN

1-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 066535-8624

KUUSHIN Choose from daily A or B set lunches or an evening course of creative chinese cuisine at one of the tastiest chinese restaurants in Osaka.

CHINESE

Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-7729

TOKI NO HA CHINESE Delicious bowls of noodles and freshly steamed dumplings are the main draw at this chinese tea emporium run by the same owner/chef as Kuushin.

Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-6001

SNOW LION The dazzling array of golden Buddha statues, Buddhist thangka paintings and other Tibetan ornaments and artworks that pack this unique restaurant makes it feel like you’re eating in a fine art gallery.

ETHNIC

COCOWELL CAFE Healthy, coconut-laced lunch plates and desserts are the focus of this all-day dining eco-friendly cafe in Horie.

JAPANESE

Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-13-21 • TEL: 06-65315572

BASE ISLAND KITCHEN This tiny counter-only restaurant serves up an eclectic mix of delicious tapas ranging from vegetarian and vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk Chicken! Open until 5pm daily.

ETHNIC

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-16-27

TABIJI KITCHEN Choose your dish by its country of origin, in this comfortable restaurant that serves up everything from Vietnamese pho to English Shepherd’s Pie, depending on the day of the week.

ETHNIC

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-14-20 • TEL: 06-65678403

CRAFT BURGER Run by a friendly Aussie expat and his wife, Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which the patties, buns, and all their sauces are handmade with the freshest ingredients.

AMERICAN

Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-6 • TEL: 06-6556-6682

BISTRO NEW ORLEANS AMERICAN Authentic New Orleansstyle restaurant, serving up Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location.

Shinmachi 1-14-2 2F. Tel. 06-6585-9592.

44

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-15-10 • TEL: 06-65437071

freshly baked by their sister shop Westwood Bakers.

SAUCE BOSS

Nishishinsaibashi, 1-10-35 • TEL: 06-49639840

AMERICAN Serving up mouthwatering chicken wings in a huge variety of flavors, with craft beer and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down.

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie, 1-5-13 • TEL: 06-71717938

BISTRO D’ANJOU FRENCH Osaka’s oldest bistro, Anjou has been serving classic brasserie food to a loyal following for 40 years.

B1F, 2-6-18, Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-62116085

AN NGON An Ngon certainly lives up to its name, meaning “it’s delicious” in Vietnamese. The cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other Vietnamese decorations and boasts an extensive menu.

ETHNIC

4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6282-4567

CAFE ABSINTHE ETHNIC Stylish Mediterranean restaurant and bar serving craft cocktails, and excellent food, including hummus, falafel and babaganoush.

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-2-27 • TEL: 06-65346635

CRITTERS BURGER AMERICAN Seriously good burgers and a great selection of toppings at this chilled out store in Amemura. Buns are

PAPRIKA SHOKUDO Vegetarian/vegan restaurant serving creative meat-free dishes - so flavorsome you could swear you were eating meat sometimes!

JAPANESE

Shinmachi 1-9-9, Nishi-ku • TEL: 06-65999788

EL PANCHO Serving up authentic Mexican fare since 1978, El Pancho offers great value combo plates and a happy hour that runs from 11:30am–5pm daily!

MEXICAN

Shinsaibashi Tower Bldg. 8F • TEL: 066241-0588

ALI’S KITCHEN Halal-certified Pakistani and Arabic cuisine, with over 200 menu items, including their popular goat brain masala and signature biryani dishes.

ETHNIC

B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4708-5745

CHAI CHAI Fantastically spicy authentic Indian curries, served with basmati rice and vegetable side dishes, at this slightly off-the-beaten-path curry shop in Kitahorie.

ETHNIC

Nishi-ku Kitahorie 3-2-12 • TEL: 06-65321103

Food & Drink

See Kansaifinder.com for more SATURDAYS NYC

THE BLARNEY STONE

Laid-back, spacious cafe cum boutique with a large island counter to recharge both your laptop and your senses.

Irish pub in the heart of Shinsaibashi with live bands, great food and international staff. Happy Hour until 8pm.

CAFES AND TEAROOMS

4-13-22 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4963-3711

TAVOLA 36

BARS

Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-5-27 Koda Bldg.

B1F • TEL: 06-6468-2220

HANA SAKE BAR BARS With friendly Englishspeaking staff on hand to guide you, try a range of local sake and other Japanese spirits at this casual bar in the heart of Shinsaibashi.

Occupying the 36th floor of the Swissôtel in Namba, this upscale restaurant serves an excellent buffet lunch and offers some fantastic views over the city day or night.

1-8-4, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo-ku

5-1-60 Namba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-66465125

SUSHI KAIBA

ITALIAN

MURPHY’S IRISH PUB BARS Japan’s oldest Irish bar and proud to provide the cheapest full pint in Osaka, Guinness and Kilkenny direct from Ireland, and a comprehensive selection of whiskeys and spirits.

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-Suji 1-5-2 2F • TEL: 06-6245-3757

Marrying a modern Japanese interior with authentic nigiri-zushi, Kaiba sets the standard for casual sushi dining.

Choose from set courses or a la carte.

JAPANESE

with five screens and a full food menu including its authentic homemade meat pies.

wonderful riverside location in Kitahama, overlooking the Central Public Hall.

Chuo-ku Nishishinsaibashi 2-16-13 Hosen Bldg. 1F • TEL: 06-6213-5153

2 Chome-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6125-5740

THE SUITE

TENNOJI

Modeled after a 1920s New York hotel suite, this place is as suave as it gets and the perfect spot for some postdinner cocktails. Featuring live entertainment every weekend on its chandelier-lit stage area.

WINE AND COCKTAILS

Chuo Ward, Nishishinsaibashi, 2-18-18 • TEL: 06-6282-7742

ZERRO Popular Shinsaibashi bar with live DJs every weekend and no cover charge. Great food, cocktails and international beers from 500 yen.

BARS

COCOMOMO&CO. Wholesome fusion cuisine in Tennoji serving up Mediterranean, Asian and British favorites and tempting cakes and desserts. Great for vegetarians, vegans and families.

ETHNIC

Abeno-ku, Matsuzakicho 3-6-2 • TEL: 06-6624-8323

LEZZET CRAFTBEER & FOOD EXPERIENCE

Kitahorie 1-15-22 • TEL: 06-6532-2918

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2 • TEL: 06-6211-0439

CRAFT BEER BARS A craft beer bar with a great tap selection and extensive food menu, including weekly specials and full-plate pasta dinners. No smoking.

COOLABAH

UMEDA

Abeno-ku, Matsuzaki-cho 2-3-21 • TEL: 06-7850-1412

SPORTS BARS An Australian/New Zealand themed sports bar/cafe

Farmstand HYOGO JAPANESE

Farm-to-table is the concept at this Kitano-zaka cafe and market—the hub of local co-operative farming movement Eat Local Kobe. Using only locally sourced ingredients, they serve healthy and nutritious lunch sets (¥1,000), homemade cakes, and local dairy soft-serve ice cream. Sit outside if the weather allows, or inside at one of their shared-seating tables. Freerange eggs, seasonal vegetables, and other local produce are available at their small in-store farmers’ market.

1-7-15 Yamamoto-dori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • eatlocalkobe.org

BEER BELLY Osaka’s local award-winning brewery, Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in Higobashi. Serving seasonal brews as well as its regular lineup on tap, including its award winning stout and decent bar food.

CRAFT BEER BARS

Nishi-ku, Tosabori 1-1-30 • TEL: 06-64410717

TIN’S HALL A perennial favorite for many expats, serving good bar food and drinks. Look out for happy hour from 6–9pm where a beer and generously sized burger combo is just 1,000yen. Free live music on Saturday nights.

BARS

Tennoji Ward, Minamikawahoricho, 10−3 • TEL: 06-6773-5955

DARUMA

PIERRE The InterContinental Osaka’s 21st floor Michelinstarred restaurant features a seasonal fine dining menu in sophisticated surroundings.

FRENCH

3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku • TEL: 06-63745700

OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE Australian-themed steakhouse chain, serving up juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood.

AMERICAN

Kita-ku, Dojima 1-6-20 • TEL: 06-6457-7121

HARDROCK CAFE International chain offering authentic American favorites – including its famous burgers and smokehouse sandwiches – and live music on the weekends.

AMERICAN

3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6120-5711

BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY (KITAHAMA) CAFES AND TEAROOMS Great coffee and relaxing decor at this

No frills, kushikatsu (deep-fried battered meat and vegetables on sticks) dining in front of Tsutenkaku Tower.

Remember the golden rule when reaching for the sauce – no double dipping!

JAPANESE

Osaka, Naniw-ku, Ebisucho-higashi 2-3-9 • TEL: 06-6645-7056

ZUBORAYA One of Shinsekai’s iconic restaurants. Look for the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair.

Whatever form of blowfish you can imagine, Zuboraya has it at an affordable price.

JAPANESE

Naniwa-Ku, Ebisu-Higashi 2-5-5 • TEL: 06-6633-5529

AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARK Airy two-storey trattoria serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated Tenshiba park area. Good choice for families with children.

ITALIAN

5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji-ku • TEL: 06-6773-2225

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

45

Food & Drink

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Spice Chamber KYOTO ETHNIC

One of the plusses of dining at kappo (counter-style) curry restaurant Spice Chamber is that you can see your food prepared from start to finish taking in the delicious scents of various spices in anticipation of your feast. Try the New York chicken curry or the house special keema curry, a dry minced-meat-based South East Asian dish. Unlike Japanesestyle curry, the keema at this narrow eatery has a kick to it.

Topped with a pickled Japanese plum or other house-made special, the dishes are accompanied by tsukemono (pickles): carrots, daikon (radish), and cabbage, sweet and cool to relieve the fire of the curry, but only fleetingly.

1F Fukui Bldg., 502 Hakurakuten-cho, Muromachi-dori, Ayanokoji-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku • 075-342-3813

Kyoto

Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201 • TEL: 075-352-6666

ROCK BAR ING

Cosy hole-in-the-wall 8-seater bar run by Englishspeaking local artist, Milton.

A huge choice of liquors to choose from, including a good range of rums and whiskies.

Non smoking.

MILTON’S KYOTO A stalwart of the Kiyamachi bar scene since 1998, this small but cosy rock’n’roll bar promises good times, cheap beer and great music.

BAR

BARS

288-201 Minami Kuruyamacho, Nishi Kiyamachidori Takoyakushi-Agaru, Nakagyo-Ku • Tel: 075-255-5087

Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F

NISHITOMIYA CROQUETTE SHOP

Tofu in all its forms and variations, coupled with seasonal vegetables and presented in a stunning fine dining setting.

English menu available.

JAPANESE Gourmet croquettes paired with wine and tasty appetizers served in a cozy bar; at wine barrels that double as tables or on stools at the counter.

These special fusion croquettes are even available for takeout.

Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, Kawaramachi Matsubara Sagaru Uematsu-cho 735 • Tel: 075-202-9837

BEER KOMACHI CRAFT BEER BARS A small izakayastyle dining bar with seven taps of Japanese craft beer and a good sake menu to boot. Serves excellent food.

444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-746-6152

KYOTO BEER LAB A cosy brewpub run by Kyoto’s own ChaBeer Brewing Company, offering some rather unusual beers, including its American Hopped Green Tea Pale Ale, infused with green tea grown in nearby Wazuka-cho.

CRAFT BEER BARS

UMENOHANA KARASUMA JAPANESE

Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West 18 Bldg. B1F • TEL: 075-254-0566

KATSUKURA SANJO Grind your own sesame seeds at this stylish chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants. Great value set meals including all-you-can-eat rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the original store.

JAPANESE

16, Ishibashicho, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075212-3581

KUSHIKURA Charcoal grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables dishes served in a beautiful 100-year-old traditional kyo-machiya house.

JAPANESE

584 Hiiragi-cho Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075213-2211

KIYAMACHI SAKURAGAWA Japanese fine dining, kaiseki style. Sit at the cypress wood counter and watch as the chef prepares a meal of exquisite dishes focused on the freshest seasonal ingredients.

Reservations required.

JAPANESE

Nijokudaru-Kamikorikicho-491, Kiyamachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075255-4477

Hyogo

Chuo-ku, Motomachi-dori 3-11-10 • TEL: 078-332-1660

TRITON CAFE Popular, stylish open-plan cafe on Kitano-zaka, serving up food all day, including bistro-style lunch plates and homemade desserts.

CAFES & TEAROOMS

1-23-16 Nakayamatedori, Chuo-ku • TEL: 078-251-1886

THE ROCK JAPAN

BOND A spacious, sleek open plan interior serving up quality pasta dishes and trattoria-style mains just in front of the Mosque in Kobe’s Kitano area. Their chocolate tart with mountainsansho is a real treat.

ITALIAN

Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 3-3-5 • 078252-0052

LA TABLE DE YAMASAKI FRENCH This delightful little bistro just opened in the summer and is already attracting a loyal following. Located down a small alley just off Tor Road, this stylish yet unpretentious little bistro is a real gem, serving up authentic French fare, including mouthwatering desserts.

Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 2-14-2 • 078-335-7813

INDUSRAY Authentic southern-Indian home-cooked food, served from ETHNIC

this small, cosy family-run restaurant in Motomachi. The lamb or chicken biryani comes highly recommended.

Australian sports bar and grill, offering up popular Aussie favorites including kangaroo burgers and steak and Guinness pies.

SPORTS BARS

2F, 3-5-6 Kanou-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-393-2111

PIZZERIA AZZURRI Delicious authentic Napoli-style pizzas and antipasto, served from a small location near Kitano. One of the most popular pizzerias in Kobe, so be sure to make a reservation, or arrive early.

ITALIAN

Chuo Ward, Yamamotodori, 3-7-3 • TEL: 078-241-6036

Need more dining options?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

47

Maps & Info

Welcome To Kansai Getting Around

Taxis

The Kansai area covers the prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. There is so much to explore, so you’ll need to prioritize your time wisely. Its main travel hubs are Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed rail networks, including the shinkansen (bullet train).

On regular trains, you can travel between Osaka and Kyoto in about 45 mins, and between Kobe and Osaka in about 30 mins. If you are here on holiday, pick up a convenient travel pass, such as the Kansai Thu Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai One Pass (kansaionepass.com), to avoid having to negotiate the ticket machines. Use a website such as HyperDia (hyperdia.com) to check train times and platforms from your smartphone.

Fares start from ¥500. The drivers wearing white gloves and official hats tend to be the most courteous, but don’t expect English to be widely understood.

Have your destination name and address on hand in Japanese.

Trains and Subways There is an excellent rail network connecting all corners of Kansai. As well as JR (Japan Rail), there are numerous private railway companies servicing the area, including Keihan (Osaka/ Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/ Nagoya). Each line operates several types of train. For the fastest trains, look for the Limited Express service trains.

Be aware that Local trains stop at every station on the line, so only take them if no other type of train stops at your station.

Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto and are an extremely efficient way to get around the cities.

Tip: Pick up a Railway Network map from a major station or Tourist Information Center.

Airport Transfers To/from downtown Osaka, the most convenient option is the Nankai Rapi:t Express service (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, take the JR Airport Express HARUKA service (75 mins).

ATMs and Credit Cards If you’re using Visa, you will be able to withdraw cash at most bank or convenience-store ATMs. If you’re using Mastercard, your best bet for withdrawing money is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other ATMs in Kansai do not accept Mastercard. It is not common to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards in Japan, even for expensive purchases. Many shops and restaurants do not offer this service, so be sure to carry plenty of cash with you.

Wi-Fi Getting connected in Kansai can be tricky. Renting a smartphone or SIM card at the airport is the safest option, to connect to the internet over a 3G or 4G network.

In Osaka, you can access the Osaka Free Wi-Fi service at train and subway stations, stores and facilities throughout the prefecture.

Accidents and Emergencies Ambulance/Fire service: Tel. 119 Police: Tel. 110

Buses For out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.

48

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

GET KANSAI SCENE

KYOTO

Kansai Scene is available from the following major outlets in the Kansai region:

Hotels and Guesthouses

OSAKA

Hotels and Guesthouses Hyatt Regency, Nikko Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Ritz Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka, InterContinental Hotel Osaka Tourist Information Centers Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Osaka), Hankyu Tourist Center Umeda, Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Namba), Kansai Tourist Information Center (KIX), Kansai Tourist Information Center (Shinsaibashi), Nankai Information Center (Namba) Shops Kinokuniya Bookstore Umeda, Kinokuniya Honmachi, Tower Records Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe

Royal Hotel, Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Nikko Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kyoto Tourist Information Center, Kansai Tourist Information Center Kyoto, Kyoto International Community House Shops Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, GEAR KOBE

Hotels and Guesthouses Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe Portopia Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kobe International Community Center, Hyogo International Plaza Shops Junkudo Nishinomiya, Junkudo Sannomiya, Kinokuniya Kobe

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Post Office

Umeda Sky Building

Shangrila

Club Azul

Hub

Hankyu Tourist Center

Yodobashi Camera

D

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Herbis Steakhouse Bldg.

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Osaka YWCA

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Bank of Japan

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Museum of Oriental Ceramics Osaka City N aniw Public Hall aba shi GARB Weeks

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Mitsui Garden Hotel APA Hotel

Osaka

Science Museum

Beer Belly

Rihga Nakanoshima Inn

Mitsui Sumitomo Bank

3

Library

Brooklyn Roasting Company Kitahama

Osaka International Convention Center (Grand Cube Osaka) Sumitomo Hosp.

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kitahama

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Craft Beer Base Garden

TAKAMURA Wine & Coffee Roasters

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C

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shi

B Namba Shrine

MoeJoe

SHINMACHI

Maharaja Minami

Hearton Hotel

Anngon 1

Life

Big Beans Supermarket Hearton Mizuho Hotel Via Inn Bank Hotel Nishiohashi

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Saturdays NYC

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suji

Orange Street (shopping

Big Step Triangle Chaolua

Tezukayama street) Gallery 2F

Westwood Bakers

Hotel Lions Rock The Suite

Yotsubashi line

MINAMIHORIE

Horie Park

Joule Dormy Inn Sun Hall Balabushka Ghost 4F Ultralounge Mustang Moonshine Slices Moon Tower

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Osaka Shochikuza

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Don Quijote

Hozenji Temple Osaka Floral Inn

NAMBA

Pub Bar 30 2F Naniwa Sports Center

Jack & Queen

National Bunraku Theater Nipponbashi sta.

BIC Camera Toho Cinemas Namba annex

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Naniwa Ward Office

3

Sunroute DOTONBORIHotel Osaka Namba

Kokopelli

Visitors Information Center

Naniwa Post Office

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

Dormy Inn

Fujiya Hotel

SOEMON-CHO Burlesque B1

B1

Shimanouchi Library

Cinquecento

Vanity

Nankai Namba Station

Namba Oriental Hotel

Misono Building

Namba Plaza Hotel

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APA Hotel

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Kuromon Market

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50

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ba

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South

Kansai Tourist Information Center

Dotonbori Hotel

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APA Hotel

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Apple Store

Triangle Park

Yamaya

GAP

5F Boy FootRock &BEERS

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North

Silver Ball Planet Cinem @rt

Nest Hotel

Nagahori Tsurumi-Ryokuchi line

Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)

Craft Base Burger

1

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Tokyu Hands

El Pancho Uniqlo 8F

Midosuji line

TABIJI Kitchen

Critters Burger Via Inn

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Saboten

Granknot Coffee

2

Nishitetsu Inn

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Yotsubash

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Bistro New Orleans Covent Garden

Ali’s Kitchen

Toyoko Inn

KITAHORIE

MINAMI-SEMBA Arthur Murray

Louis Vuitton

Shinsaibashi

D

Sakaisuji line

Daiwa Roynet Hotel

C

K2 record Namba PARKS NAMBA PARKS CINEMA

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Shinmachi Kita Park

Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)

A

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Maps & Info

5

Animate Nihonbashi Shop

Toys”R”Us Yamada Denki LABI1 Namba C

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

C

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Osaka Castle

The Lutheran Hotel Tanimachi 4-chome

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Hanshin Expressway

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OSAKA Tennoji

A

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to Kyoto Imperal Palace

Hostel Mundo Chiquito Nijo Castle

Clamp Coffee Sasara

1 Hotel Okura Kyoto City Hall

Hearton Hotel

Tozai Subway Line

Yoboji Temple

Kyotoshiyakusho-mae

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Nakamura General Store Mikane-Jinja Shrine

Nijojo-Mae

The Museum of Kyoto

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Kyoto BAL

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Nyorinin Hozoji Temple

Kyoto Art Center

to Maruyama Park

Nishiki Market

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Amore Kiyamachi

Kam

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Kotoku Park

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Gion Corner

Kennin-ji Temple Hojo Yasui Konpiragu Shrine

Daisenji Higashiyama Ward Office

Yumeyakata Gojo Gojo

Tambaguchi

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Kyoto Gojo Hotel Shuhokaku to Kiyomizu-dera

3

Seikoro

Ichihime-Jinja Shrine

Otani Hombyo Cemetary Sumiya Motenashi Museum Higashi Honganji Temple

Shichijo

Kyoto Aquarium Umekoji Park

Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto

Kyoto National Museum

Yodobashi Camera Kyoto Railway Museum

Toyokuni-Jinja Shrine

Shosei-en Garden

Nishi Honganji Temple

4

2

Shoenji Temple er

Mibudera Temple

Kyoto-Daijingu Shrine

Shijo

Mitsui Garden Hotel

Shin-Omiya

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Karasuma

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Village Kyoto

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Rokkakudo Temple Shounji

Kyoto Prefectural Police Station

D

to Heian Shrine

The Ritz-Carlton

Kyoto International Manga Museum

Karasuma Oike

1

Nijo

Chisaku-in Temple

Sanjusangendo

Hyatt Regency Kyoto

Kyoto Tower APA Hotel Rhiga Royal Hotel

4 Kyoto Century Hotel

Bic Camera

Kyoto Station Hotel Granvia

Rokusonno-Jinja Shrine

Imakumano-Jinja Shrine

El Inn Kyoto

New Miyako Hotel

Hotel Keihan Kyoto Grande

k Tofu

uji

Aeon Mall

Toji Sakura Terrace

Kujo

Oji

KYOTO Central

Marutamachi

B

A

Jingu-Marutamachi

Maps & Info

5

Zuirinji Temple

5

Kyoto Terrsa

Tofukuji Temple

Kyoto Brewing Co. A

52

B

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

C

Komyoin

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Grand Prince Hotel Kyoto

Entsu-ji Temple Kamigamo Shrine

C

ICC Kyoto

L i ne

Ota Shrine

uma

Jinko-in Temple

Su bw ay Ka ras

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r ve Ri Dori Street

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Daishougun Hachi Shrine Aisen-ji Temple

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Kyoto Imperial Palace B

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H&M

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Hotel Ponto

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river kawa Shira Jam Hostel

Tatsumi Bridge

Gion Kaikan Kyoto Modern Art Museum

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Kawaramachi

Marui Kyoto

Shoenji Temple

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Tosa-Inari Shrine (Misaki-jinja)

McDonald’s Takashimaya Department Store Kyoto Daijingu Shrine

Daishogun Shrine

C

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Karasuma Hotel

VOU Art Gallery

Kyoto BAL

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Kitsune Kyoto UrBANGUILD

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Kyoto Muse

Ogawa Coffee

Nishiki-tenmangu Shrine Super Hotel

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Daimaru Kyoto

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Starbucks

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Kamogawa Riv er

Sugi Drug Shinkyogoku

Kyoto City Tourism Association Visitor Information Hana Hotel

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Papa Jon's Cafe Rokkaku

McDonald’s

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Royal Park Hotel

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Inoda Coffee

Ippudo Nishikikouji

Kyoto High School

Yoboji Temple

Honnoji Temple

Cafe Kocsi

Kyonoyado Kaginei

Cocon Karasuma

D

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Kyoto Art Center

2

Anraku-ji, and Reikan-ji D

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The Museum of Kyoto

Kyoto Municipal Gender Equality Center Misayama Park

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Hounen-in Temple

Tetsugaku-no-michi (Philosopher's Path)

C

Kyoto Hotel Okura

Smart Coffee

Rokkakudo Temple

Higashiyama Jisho-ji (Ginkaku-ji)

Yoshida-jinja Shrine

Comme des Garcons Tozai Line

Hotel Gimmond

Nakagyo Post Office

2

Yasaka Shrine

2

Kanji Museum

Hotel Sunline Gion Corner

D

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

53

KYOTO Sanjo

Shimadai Gallery

Kyoto University of Art & Design

C

Hotel Sugicho

Hearton Hotel

Konpuku-ji Temple

Hyakumanben Chion-ji Temple

B

A

Hotel Monterey Kyoto

Imadegawa Dori Street

Higashi Oji Dori S

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Randen Railw ays Kitano Line

Guesthouse KirinYa Kamogawa River

Horikawa Dori Street

Demachiyanagi Sta. Imadegawa Sta.

Hachidai-Jinja Shrine

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Kyoto International Manga Musuem

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Koutou-in Temple

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Kyoto Botanical Garden

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Kyoto Concert Hall

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Takaragaike Park

Josho-ji Temple

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B

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B

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Kitanoseiryu Shrine

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ter cen

4

Hotel Sunroute Sopra 3

Bo

ad

r ro

we Flo

NANKIN-MACHI

Hanakuma Park

i-m

oto

ma

M

Cafe Fish!

Nis h

KOBE Sannomiya

Maps & Info

SHINKO-CHO

Hotel Okura Kobe

Hotel La Suite Kobe Harborland

Kobe Maritime Museum Jumbo Ferry Terminal

5

Meriken park

Arthur Murray CULMENI 3F

Kobe Harborland umie

OS Cinema Harborland

A

54

5

Kobe Minato Onsen Ren

Kobe Cruise Luminous Kobe 2

umie MOSAIC

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental

B

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

C

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

NARA Overview

Kizu River Yamada Sta. Ke i

Nishi-Kizu Sta.

YAGYU AREA

Kizu Sta.

YAGYU AREA

Jubei s cedar

na wa

Bus Stop

E

xp

re s

Takanohara Sta.

sw

ay

KYOTO

Ama-no-Ishitate Shrine

YAGYU-CHO The main house of Yagyu Houtoku-ji Temple

Ofuji s Well

Narayama Sta. Mausoleums Heijo Sta. Nara-Okuyama Driveway YamatoSaidaiji Sta.

Ima-gawa Stream

NARA

Masakizaka Kendo & Zen Dojyo

Ruin of Mausoleum Enjo-ji Temple

Heijō Palace remains

Yasaka Shrine

Yagyu Kaido Trail Mt. Yoshino

Nara Sta.

Ruin of The House of Yagyu

JR Nara Sta.

Iris garden

CENTRAL NARA

Touge Chaya Jigoku-dani Sekkutsu-butsu

Yuhi-kannon

Nakamura 6 Jizos Housou Jizo

Kubikiri Jizo Asahi-kannon

Kujo Sta.

B

C Chisoku-In

Tengaimon gate of Todaiji

ve

r

HIGASHI SASABOKO-CHO

Sa

ho

Ri

1

D

Shosoin Main Warehouse

West Treasures Warehouse

East Treasures Warehouse

Ryu-shou-In

Imperial Household Agency Shosoin Office

NISHI SASABOKO-CHO

1 Todaiji Nigatsudo

Ruin of Yakemon (Chumon) the gate of Todaiji Nara Women’s University

Todai-ji Karakuni Shrine (Tengu Shrine)

Hotel Tamar

Todaiji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo)

OSHIAGE-CHO YURUGI-CHO

SHUKUIN-CHO

Ruin of Saidaimon the gate of Todaiji

Guesthouse Nara Backpackers

NOBORIOJI-CHO

Nara Prefectural Museum

SUIMON-CHO

Mt. Wakakusa

Oak Hostel Nara Nara Prefectural Office

Nandaimon Gate of Todaiji

Himuro Shrine

Hall of Kofuku-ji “Chu-kon-do”

Hoku’endo

The Fifty-Two Steps

Tourist Info Center

(luggage storage & delivery service)

Sarusawa Pond

Yoshidaya

GANRININ-CHO

Nara Pickle Shop

2

Musashino

Nara Kasugano Int’l Forum Mizuya Shrine

Nara National Museum New Wings

Five Storied Pagoda

Nan’endo

Matsunoya

Kofuku-ji Main Hall

Kozen-in

(2F)

LAMP BAR

Mont-bell

Yume-Kaze Plaza Shops & Cafes

Nara National Museum

“Tou-kon-do” LBK Craft

Int’l Forum IRAKA Annex

Yoshiki-en

Kintetsu line Nara Sta.

Tourist Info Center

NARA PARK

Todaiji Museum

Isuien Neiraku Museum

NAKASUJI-CHO 2

Tamukeyama Hachimangu Kagami-Ike Pond

Kikusuiro

Shikitei Hotel Pagoda

Hitokotonushi Shrine Kasuga-taisha

Edosan Inn

Tsubomiwa Shrine

Aoba Chaya

Roku-en

Enso Bairin Tei

Wakamiya Shrine

IKENO-CHO

Ara Pond

Nara Hotel

Ukimido Pavilion Kinryu Shrine

3

3

Yuga Shrine

Kii Shrine

Meishou Kyu-Daijoin Teien Former Residnece of Naoya Shiga (novelist)

Gango-ji Gokuraku-bo

Hotel Wellness Asukaji Kuuki Cake Shop

Zutou Pyramid A

Jurin-in Temple

B

Yagyu Kaido Trail C

Kantoku Temple Fukuu-in D

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

55

NARA Central

A

B

A

C Ho kk aid o

KANSAI

Katsuyama Fukui

& TOKYO

Kyoto

1

FUKUI

Hyogo

Mie

Osaka

Gujo

Nara Wakayama

Tsuruga

Maizuru

Tottori Sand Dunes Tottori

Mikata-goko Five Lakes Cycling Course

Obama

Takahama

GIFU

Kinosaki Maibara

Gifu Hashima 2

2

Lake Biwa Hikone-jo Castle

KYOTO

Tamba

Oumihachiman

Enryaku-ji Temple

HYOGO

Sasayama

aid

Mt. Hiei

Kyoto

k To

Otsu

Himeji

Akoh

3

Nagoya

n Nagoya

SHIGA

Koga

Fushimi Inari Aioi

h oS

se

an

ink

Kyoto Kinkaku-ji

Uji Himeji-jo Castle Sa ny oS hin ka ns en

Suzuka Circuit

Arima Iga

Mt. Rokko

Shin Osaka

Shin Kobe

Shoudo Island

3

Toudai-ji Temple

Osaka

Akashi Ohashi

Nara

Sakai

Kansai International Airport

Awaji

Tsu

Osaka-jo Castle

Kobe Nishi Akashi

Toba Aquarium

OSAKA

Angel Road

KAGAWA

1

Shiga

Mt. Hyonosen

OTTORI

D

Dinosaur Museum

To Ni ga ta

KANSAI Overview

Maps & Info

Ise

MIE

Ise Grand Shrine

NARA

Awaji Island

Yoshino Naruto Ohashi

Sumoto

Wakayama

Shionoha Odaigahara

4

Naruto

Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)

Mt. Koya

4 Mt. Shakagatake Mt. Obako

Tokushima

WAKAYAMA

TOKUSHIMA

Kumano

Hongu Tanabe

Kumanohongu Shrine Shingu

Mt. Nachi

Ferries Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail Kumano Kodo Trail

Shirahama 5

Bridges

Nachi Falls

Nachikatsuura

5

Ninja Village Hot Springs

Kushimoto

Ski Spots Beaches

A

56

B

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

C

D

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

A Cut Above the Rest Frank’s Chop Shop opens in Kyoto

B

FRANK’S CHOP SHOP OPEN: Everyday 10am–10pm (last appointment 9pm) CLOSED: New Year holidays TEL: 075-708-7992 ADDRESS: 106-2 Yaoya-cho (Rokkaku-dori), Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto ACCESS: Hankyu Kyoto Line, Kawaramachi Stn, 8-min walk / Keihan Main Line, Sanjo Stn, 10-min walk

PHOTO: FRANK’S CHOP SHOP

arbershops in Japan tend to cater for an older clientele, offering a simple menu of cuts and shaves, in a no-frills environment, decorated with faded posters of 80’s hairstyles. A little intimidating for first-timers to the say the least, and not exactly inspiring confidence you will get what you ask for, especially for non-Japanese speakers.

If you are looking for a more contemporary cut, or a barber with some sharp tapering or fading skills, then your options are severely limited. Until now that is, with the news that New York-based Frank’s Chop Shop is opening its doors in Kyoto’s Nakagyo ward this December.

With three branches already in Japan—in Fukuoka, Okinawa, and Kagoshima—Frank’s Chop Shop combines the traditional American barbershop, complete with vintage 1930’s leather chairs and checkerboard floor tiles, with a classic rock and hip-hop vibe. Offering an array of contemporary gentlemen’s haircuts, including razor fades, buzz cuts, and styled scissor cuts, Frank’s Chop Shop has a diverse and loyal fan base—from local hipsters to international businessmen. With English-speaking barbers, contemporary styles, and a laidback vibe, you’ll wonder how you lived without them for so long.

Check the website for appointments. frankschopshop.jp

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com

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scrop-coffee-roasters.com

As seen on TV

“Geisha Blend”, coffee beans, coffee gifts, coffee appliances, and more available from our official website and via Amazon

SPECIALITY COFFEE We only use the most carefully selected coffee combined with speciality coffee - which constitutes only about 6-7% of the total coffee produced across the globe.

VISIT OUR COFFEE SHOP IN TOKYO Nagareyama Otaka Forest S C Shop 3fl., Nagareyama Otaka Forest S C, 6-185-2 Nishihatsuishi, Nagareyama-city, Chiba 270-0121 Open Hours: 10:00-22:00

Speciality Coffee for Discerning Tastes Using carefully selected speciality coffee beans, domestically roasted in small batches with the utmost care, Scrop Coffee Roasters delivers a taste of fine living to everyday lives.

Top 6-7%

THOROUGH QUALITY CONTROL BY Q GRADERS The Q Grader is an internationally accredited Coffee Appraiser who is qualified to analyse and grade beans. It is the most recognised and coveted certification system in the trade with only about 0.016% of the world’s coffee practitioner population holding the accreditation (in Japan there are about 300 Q Graders).

MEETING ALL YOUR NEEDS FOR SPECIALITY COFFEE

• Coffee beans for institutional use • Coffee beans for retail • OEM production and cafe startup support