Kansai Scene 226: Autumn 2020

AUTUMN

SEP–NOV 2020 No. 226

Free

WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE

Autumn

Spend quality time with family and friends in Kansai’s great outdoors

Inside…

Travel

THE JOURNEY TO KOYA-SAN

Culture

THE AUTUMN MOON IN JAPAN

Explore

KINOSAKI BEYOND THE HOT SPRINGS

Discover

FAMILY FUN AT KANSAI’S FARMS

Plus

WHAT’S ON EAT & DRINK SIGHTSEEING

A Charming Forest Retreat Treat yourself to breathtaking views, fabulous hiking, exciting winter sports and relaxing hot springs

YOICHI SHIDAREZAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOM A stunning 12m tall weeping cherry sitting atop a small hill is lit up during its brief, but spectacular spring bloom JASUGI-BASHI BRIDGE A variety of picturesque hiking trails and waterfalls with ample opportunities to admire the cherry blossoms in spring

NUKUI DAM At 156 meters, this arch dam is the second highest in Japan after Kurobe Dam and Ryuki Lake was selected as one of the top 100 dam lakes in Japan

SANDANKYO GORGE A stunning 13km river gorge, awarded 3 stars by the French travel guide Blue Guide and selected as one of the top 100 scenic beauty spots in Japan

STAY WITH YOUR PET DOG Special rooms are available that can accommodate both you and your pet dog

Nukui Springs Hotel Nukui Spring Hotel occupies a secluded spot in forest skirting the beautiful Ryuki Lake, a landmark formed by the majestic Nukui Dam. Relax to your heart’s content in abundant natural surroundings.

Address: 4692-7, Kake, Akiotacho, Yamgatagun, Hiroshima 731-3501, Japan Tel: +81 (0)826-22-1200 Access: 1 hour by car from Hiroshima Station and Hiroshima Airport *Call for shuttle bus reservations or inquiries.

Akiota-cho

Okayama

Himeji

Kyoto Osaka Kobe

Hiroshima

RESERVATIONS

www.nukui-sp.com/english

CONTENTS

Autumn

22

Sep/Oct/Nov

10

26

Features

32

06

22

Farm Experiences in Kansai ROBERT KODAMA

Kinosaki: More Than a Hot Spring Town

Fun-filled activities for all the family

MATT HODGKINS

08

Events & Festivals

Art, culture and countryside cycling tours

Sights & Attractions

30

36

The Moon in a Sake Cup

ALAN J. WIREN

EDWARD J. TAYLOR

The Open-Air Museum of Japanese Farmhouses

The Japanese custom of tsukimi

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Series

Shikouan ALENA ECKELMANN A private farmhouse stay in rural Wakayama

EDWARD J. TAYLOR In the footsteps of pilgrims on the Choishimichi route

Art & Exhibitions

38 Live Music

39

18

RUNNER’S INFO × KANSAI SCENE

20

SAKE SENSEI’S BREWERY ADVENTURES AN INTERVIEW WITH SAKE SENSEI

40

BUSINESS TALK ECOTOURISM IN JAPAN WITH KIKU EZAKI

44

14 The Journey to Koya-san

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26

Clubs & Nightlife

Food & Drink

Getting Around

In partnership with Koya Sanroku Tourism AND MUCH MORE...

What’s On Guide

Discovering Edo Japan in 12 Houses

ON THE COVER: MINECHIKA ENDO THIS PAGE: ALENA ECKELMANN, KAITO YUMIN CLUB, TOYOOKA CITY

KANSAI FINDER

CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

ABOUT KANSAI SCENE KANSAI SCENE PROVIDES ENGLISHLANGUAGE ARTICLES, INFORMATION AND LISTINGS FOR VISITORS AND RESIDENTS OF THE KANSAI AREA. KANSAI SCENE IS PUBLISHED BY CB, LTD. WITH SUPPORT FROM TRANSPACIFIC ENTERPRISES

Publisher................................................ CB, Ltd Managing Editor............Lucinda Ping Cowing Editor............................................... Rey DeBoer Art Director.................................... Aya Konishi Designer........................................ Mahito Ozaki Coordinator............................ Takayuki Ogawa Production................ Transpacific Enterprises Listings Contributors Art.................................................Martha Knauf Events.............................................Tomoko Ishii Live Music.................................Phillip Jackson Clubs/Live Music.....................Saiko Fujiwara CONTACT KS General ................mailbox@kansaiscene.com Editorial.................. editor@kansaiscene.com Advertising...............sales@kansaiscene.com Tokyo Office.........................................................

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A

utumn is my favorite time to be in Japan. What heat and mugginess might linger over the day dissipates by evening; the harsh screeching of cicadas is replaced by the soft chirruping of crickets, and the higanbana (spider lilies) line the banks of rivers and yellowed rice fields waiting to be harvested. And, of course, there is also the beauty of the autumn moon to enjoy (learn more at p. 30-31) Speaking of rice harvesting, this is one fantastic, family-friendly activity to get involved in—and this is what the autumn edition of Kansai Scene is all about. With the pandemic having cast its shadow over many an anticipated summer break, this is your opportunity to spend some quality time in the great outdoors with those you care about. We visit a delightful private farmhouse rental in Katsuragi (p.10-11), not far from where the

24-km Choishi-michi route (p.14-17) up to the fabled Mt. Koya begins; offer ideas for a fun-packed day trip to the region’s farms and ranches; (p.6-7), discover what life was really like in Edo Japan (p. 8-9) and explore the lesser-known delights of Kinosaki hot spring village and its rural environs (p.22-25). We sit down with ecotourism pioneer Kiku Ezaki (p.26-27) and the equally accomplished Rakudo Yoshida, our very own Sake Sensei (p.20-21). Our collaborators at Runners Info also share one of top athlete Tsuyoshi Kaburaki’s favorite trail runs (p.

18-19).

This season’s events listings have been slimmed down for reasons of which you will be well aware, but we trust you will find plenty of inspiration in our pages! We continue to provide up-to-date information about what’s on at kansaifinder.com.

LUCINDA PING COWING e d i to r @ ka n s ai s c e n e.c o m

SHIKOUAN SHIKOUAN OFFERS A RANGE OF ACTIVITIES FROM COOKING CLASSES TO CRAFTS FOR PRIVATE GROUPS.

Kansai Office.......................................................

Kishinosato Bldg. 3F, 13-15 Shinnozukacho, Ashiya, Hyogo 659-0016 Tel.................................................0797-25-9322 Fax................................................0797-25-9321 Website..................................kansaiscene.com WRITE FOR KANSAI SCENE

PHOTO: SHIKOUAN

If you would like to write for KS, please contact editor@kansaiscene.com after reviewing our writers’ guidelines: kansaiscene.com/write-for-us

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DISCOVER

FARM EXPERIENCES IN KANSAI TEXT: ROBERT KODAMA

PHOTOS: CHUCK KAYSER, MIDORI FARM

T

his autumn, some of the best outdoor experiences are to be had in Kansai’s rural countryside.

Recreational farms offer urbanites the chance to take up a shovel during the busy harvest season and bring fresh, delicious produce home. And what more enjoyable way to teach the kids a valuable lesson in where their food really comes from?

Here we look at a number of farms offering nogyo taiken vegetable and fruit-picking day experiences and eco tours, as well as ranches that allow children to interact with their livestock and horses. Of course, there is no need to get your hands dirty when it comes to supporting the area’s farmers. There are a number of small, dedicated farmer’s markets in Kansai’s major cities, some monthly and others less regular. There are also a number of larger outdoor events with upwards of 50 vendors, featuring everything from cooking classes to live music.

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With the ongoing pandemic, we highly recommend checking for any last-minute changes of schedule and how venues are enforcing anti-COVID measures, including restrictions on those newly arrived in Japan. Markets tend to also be subject to weather conditions.

Harvest Experiences MIDORI FARM Located in Kutsuki, Shiga Prefecture, Midori Farm is an organic vegetable farm run by Chuck Kayser, a passionate farmer from the US. They run private, family-friendly ecotours of the farm and its surrounds three days a week, as well as monthly community events open to all, which they publicize on their Facebook page. During the farming season (March - December), you can sign up to be a volunteer on the farm in exchange for accommodation and meals—ideal for

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

individuals who want a first-hand, immersive experience in an international setting. Have veggies delivered to your door by ordering at the website.

23 Kutsuki-hera, Takashima, Takashima, Shiga www.midorifarm.net/home-en (contact form)

MITORO FRUIT PARK The wide selection of fruits and flowering trees cultivated at Mitoro Fruit Park means it is able to stay open to visitors throughout the year. This autumn you may be able to catch the tail-end of the grape season,

before the time for chestnuts and persimmons begins. Events such as sweet potato picking in September and local community projects such as fruit processing classes and flea markets, both in November, allow visitors to mingle with local residents.

Mitoro 835-4, Kamisocho, Kakogawa, Hyogo TEL: 079-428-2133 / 079-428-1113 OPEN: 9am-4pm ENTRY: ¥500~¥700 per person (for chestnut harvesting a charge of ¥1,200/kg applies) www.mitoro.jp (Japanese only)

ASUKA MINPAKU

Farmer’s Markets

665 Nyudani, Asuka-mura, Takaichi-gun, Nara TEL: 0744-54-2516 / 090-7103-6342 www.asuka-minpaku.com/en/

NARA FOOD SHED In front of JR Nara Station Third Sunday of the month, 9am–2pm www.itsufushi.com (Japanese only) PHOTOS: KOBE MUNICIPAL ROKKOSAN PASTURE

Minpaku in Japan are simple, typically family-owned lodgings. Besides being able

to observe everyday life in Japan, the highlight of staying at Asuka Minpaku is that the hosts organize a range of activities for guests to get involved with the local community. When booking a room at one of their two locations in the historical town of Asuka this autumn, be sure to inquire about rice harvesting experiences.

You will spend a day with local farmers out on the paddies as they show you the traditional ways of harvesting their prize crop, typically followed by a lunch drawing on delicious local produce.

KYOTO FARMER’S MARKET Sakaimachi Garrow, 681 Maruki Zaimoku-cho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto Schedule irregular, check for updates www.facebook.com/kyotofarmersmarket (Japanese only)

OSAKA GREEN GOOD LINK! MARKET Namba Shrine, 4-1-3 Bakuromachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka Second Saturday of the month, 10am-4:30pm. For additional dates held at other locations, check the website. www.green39.jimdofree.com (Japanese only)

EAT LOCAL KOBE Kobe East Park (Higashi Yuenchi), 6-4 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe, Hyogo Every Saturday, 9am-12:30pm www.eatlocalkobe.org (Japanese only)

ASHIHABARA UPMARKET 1-7 Naniwa Higashi, Naniwa Ward, Osaka Third Sunday of the month, 10:30am-4pm www.reedjp.org/up/ (Japanese only) See the listings pages of this issue for more outdoor events this autumn.

AWAJI-SHIMA RANCH

Ranches

For those with young children, a trip to Awaji-shima Ranch is sure to delight.

Besides giving kids the chance to get up close to all the loveable farm animals of their bedtime stories, help feed the calves and ride the ranch’s ponies, they can also try their hand at milking a cow, or even making their own fresh butter or cheese.

Both of these activities require advance booking and the ranch currently only accepts group reservations.

KOBE MUNICIPAL ROKKOSAN PASTURE This ranch located on Mt. Rokko is home to all manner of adorable critters, from rabbits to goats and horses. The venue also offers a variety of classes: make your own butter or frozen yogurt, or ice cream for those with a sweet tooth. You can also purchase products made of wool from sheep raised on the farm, with a weaving workshop available for those interested.

1-1 Nakaichiriyamam, Rokkosancho, Nada Ward, Kobe, Hyogo OPEN: 9am-5pm (last entry 4:30pm) TEL: 078-891-0280 www.rokkosan.net (select English from the dropdown) * As a preventative measure against livestock infectious diseases, admission will not be permitted to those who entered Japan from overseas within one week.

1 Yagiyogikami, Minamiawaji, Hyogo TEL: 0799-42-2066 www.awajishima.or.jp (Japanese only)

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FEATURE

DISCOVERING EDO JAPAN IN 12 HOUSES TEXT: ALAN J. WIREN

PHOTOS: ALAN J. WIREN

A

journey through 300 years of Japanese history—and through the archipelago itself—begins at the gate to the Open-Air Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses. Formerly the gate to a village chief’s residence in what is now Higashi Osaka City in Osaka Prefecture, since the mid-1950s it has marked the entrance to this impressive, 36,000 square-meter plot hosting beautifully-preserved examples of historical residences sourced from up and down the country.

The Open-Air Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses was the first of its kind in Japan. Here you will find 12 buildings constructed during the Edo period (1600-1868), that were painstakingly deconstructed and moved—from as far north as Iwate Prefecture and as far as south as subtropical Kagoshima Prefecture—and rebuilt here in Toyonaka, about a 30-minute train ride from Osaka City. Each has been preserved as a valuable property reflecting the local culture, climate, economy and geography—and served as movie sets for many period dramas. But that’s not all: in the museum grounds are well-tended gardens of flowers and vegetables, a pond surrounded by a naturalistic Japanese garden with an ancient windmill from Sakai City in Osaka Prefecture that was used to pump water out of the earth. There are two time-worn, wooden longboats from Shimane and Kagoshima Prefectures. Walking trails

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loop through groves of bamboo and pine, and benches at the borders of its wide lawns offer a welcome break. It is also a fantastic venue for a picnic (although eating and drinking are prohibited inside the buildings, and alcohol is not allowed anywhere on the museum grounds).

Actually, not all of the buildings here are farmhouses. Among the seven that are, though, is a gassho-style house, so named for its steeply slanted roof that resembles hands pressed together in prayer. It comes from Hida-Shirakawa village, well known for its snow-bound winters that inspired the architecture, and now draws thousands of tourists every year. The house has several wings to accommodate a multi-generational family that once lived there together.

Another house, from an area of Iwate Prefecture known for its purebred horses, has a distinctive L-shape to accommodate people on one wing, and stables on the other. The hearth at the intersection of the “L” kept all inhabitants warm and there was no need to go outside to tend the animals during the bitter winters.

Also exhibited is a teahouse built in the 19th century that stood in three different locations before being moved to the museum; a theater built on Shodoshima Island in the Seto Inland Sea for kabuki, a cherished tradition there; and a granary that stood on a

THE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM OF OLD JAPANESE FARMHOUSES SHOWCASES A NUMBER OF HISTORICAL RESIDENCES THAT ILLUSTRATE HOW ORDINARY PEOPLE IN THE EDO PERIOD REALLY LIVED.

bank of the Dojima River in central Osaka in the days when rice was a form of currency in Japan. There is also a storehouse that would appear highly atypical on mainland Japan; built on two meter high stilts for ventilation and to prevent mice from getting at its contents, as well as providing a shady spot for people to work or play, it is well-adapted to conditions on the far southern island of Amami Oshima from which it came.

Each building has bilingual Japanese and English explanations of its origin and history, with numerous plaques elucidating the uses of various rooms, furnishings and tools. Despite being historical artifacts, one cannot help but sense the presence of its original residents, as though they have just popped out and may return at any moment, pick up their tools and get back to work. Kojima Kumi, the museum’s General Curator, says she hopes the museum’s visitors will leave with an understanding of not just the architecture of the buildings, but of different lifestyles in the Edo period and how those compare to their own.

The museum hosts several regular and seasonal events, which are currently on hold until further notice due to the pandemic, including tea ceremonies in the teahouse and performances at the kabuki theater. Visitors can stroll the grounds in kimono (sorry guys, ladies only!), kids can try their hand at traditional Japanese spinning

tops, or grind soybeans with an old-fashioned millstone. A number of the guides also speak English.

The museum is open year-round, and the changes of season make for a different experience on every visit. If cultural immersion or simply quiet, beautiful surroundings is what you seek, you can find it here at Japan’s oldest open-air museum.

Open-Air Museum of Old Japanese Farm Houses 1-2 Hattori-ryokuchi, Toyonaka, Osaka OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (last entry 4:30pm) CLOSED: Mon (Tues if Mon falls on a national holiday) ACCESS: 30-minute walk from Ryokuchi Koen Station on the Kita-Osaka Kyuko Railway (connection via Osaka Metro Midosuji Line) or from Sone Station on the Hankyu Railway ADMISSION: Adults: ¥500; High school students: ¥300; Elementary to middle school students: ¥200 TEL: 06-6862-3137 www.occh.or.jp/minka/ English-language events are expected to recommence in September. Please check the website for details. The venue requests that all visitors wear a face mask, refrain from touching the exhibits and maintain a 1-meter distance from others.

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FEATURE

Shikouan FARMHOUSE STAY IN MT. KOYA’S FOOTHILLS TEXT: ALENA ECKELMANN

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PRIVATE FARMHOUSE ACCOMMODATION SHIKOUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS OFFER A NUMBER OF ACTIVITIES.

THE GINGKO TREE ON THE GROUNDS OF THE ANCIENT NIUSAKADONO SHRINE TURNS A GLORIOUS YELLOW IN NOVEMBER.

KATSURAGI IS FAMOUS FOR ITS PERSIMMONS, WHICH ARE DRIED TO MAKE A TASTY TREAT.

A PHOTOS: SHIKOUAN, ALENA ECKELMANN

quiet hamlet amidst rice fields and vegetable gardens is the idyllic setting for Shikouan, a traditional Japanese kominka farmhouse. Kominka were once ubiquitous across the Japanese countryside but these days are more often seen abandoned if at all. With the help of students from Wakayama University, its owner, Hiroe Toyohara gave the property new life as a one-of-a-kind accommodation for families and groups to book on a private basis. Ms. Toyohara arranges all kinds of activities for guests, both on-site and in the neighborhood, whether fruit picking in local orchards or making your own unique piece of bamboo craft. Shikouan is a fantastic option for those looking to spend a low-key weekend with close family and friends in the great outdoors this autumn, all while supporting the rural economy.

The village blessed with “health and happiness” Shikouan is located in Shiga, a small village in the Katsuragi area of northern Wakayama Prefecture, about an 80-minute drive from the cities of Nara and Osaka. Now less than 150 people live in this rural hideaway in the foothills of the World Heritage Site of Mt. Koya.

This is persimmon land and in autumn the trees in the nearby orchards are loaded with bright orange fruits. The chestnuts from here are also prized, perfect for making the quintessential autumn dish, kuri-gohan (chestnut rice) back at Shikouan’s kitchen.

The pace of life is slow in this village of “always happy and healthy” locals. Many of the movers and shakers in Shiga that had gone to the city for work but in later life come back to their beloved satoyama after retirement. The warm-hearted individuals we encountered are eager to share in the simple pleasures of life here with visitors.

Kominka living with modern comforts Ms. Toyohara is very proud of her 140-year-old traditional home, which she settled on after scouring tens of properties in the area, and is keen to point out its distinct architectural features to guests.

The most distinguishing feature is its steep thatched roof. The roof is covered with metal sheets—which is common practice to prolong the life of the thatch underneath—but you can admire this rustic yet intricate work if you climb up into the attic. Going in the attic also allows a closer look at the unique pattern of crossbeams and pillars in

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CHOPPING WOOD IS HARDER THAN IT LOOKS!

USE ONE OF SHIKOUAN’S BICYCLES TO VISIT THE NEIGHBORING AMANO VILLAGE AND ITS WORLD HERITAGE SITES.

THE CHESTNUTS IN THE KATSURAGI AREA ARE HIGHLY-PRIZED.

a style of architecture called shintsuka-zukuri, that prop it up. The structure of the original house was kept, as well as the furniture, with the bathroom facilities given a makeover to meet modern standards.

A large, fully-equipped dining-kitchen features a long wooden table modeled after a hearth that used to be in this spot and would have been the sole source of heating for the house. It’s an ideal perch for a long evening chat over a glass of wine or beer after a day of activities. The local students are expected to finish their work on the tea hut sitting in the back garden—quite different to the tearooms you would find elsewhere—this October, which is also intended as a quiet spot to meditate.

The house is rented to only one party at a time, with three rooms where guests can sleep: two connected Japanese-style tatami mat rooms with futon beds and one separate room with a Western-style bed.

Unique local experiences While meals are not included in the accommodation booking, Shikouan offers cooking classes with the ingredients provided. We

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suggest you book pizza-making in the late afternoon so that you can eat what you make for dinner, plucked fresh from the clay oven (that incidentally, resembles Totoro from the Japanese anime, My Neighbor Totoro) built by the students next to the house. Or as an alternative, why not try your hand at making seasonal persimmon-leaf sushi?

There are many more activities on offer which are arranged for guests only and on request. Some activities can be organized year-round, for example, making a fetching lantern from bamboo, turning a wooden tray, or making a piece of kiri-e paper-cut art on a subject of your choice. What you create will be yours to take home as a souvenir of your trip.

Some activities depend on the weather, like chopping wood, and some are a matter of timing, for example, if you happen to be staying on a Wednesday, you can join the local taiko drumming group in their lively weekly training.

All classes and activities are 1-2 hours and taught or run by locals from the village for a fee of between ¥2,500 and ¥5,000 per person.

A CLOSER LOOK AT SHIKOUAN’S INTRICATE THATCHED ROOF.

MAKING PERSIMMON-LEAF SUSHI.

GUESTS AT SHIKOUAN ARE PROVIDED WITH THE INGREDIENTS FOR HANDMADE PIZZA, BAKED IN THE CLAY STOVE OUTSIDE.

JOIN THE LOCAL TAIKO DRUMMING CLUB AT THEIR WEEKLY PRACTICE SESSION.

On the path of pilgrims A short drive by car is the Choishi-michi, a challenging pilgrims’ trail that winds its way up to the Buddhist monastery on Mt. Koya (See the following pages of this issue for our story on the route).

Keen hikers who would like to conquer the entire 24-kilometer trail should budget about 6 hours to complete it one way. Others may prefer to explore the area by bicycle. There are four road bikes at the house that guests can use freely.

We recommend cycling along a quiet country lane to the scenic Amano Village and visit the shrines of Niutsuhime and Niusakadono, which take about 20 and 30 minutes respectively from Shikouan.

These shrines are part of the same Koyasan UNESCO World Heritage site but less well-known.

Niutsuhime is the name of a goddess that has been worshiped at this shrine for over 1,700 years. The ‘ni’ in the name stands for vermillion, the color of cinnabar. This reddish orange color is believed to have the power to keep away evil, and Niutsuhime is the guardian deity of families in Japan who are engaged in cinnabar mining.

For a fee you can request a private ceremony with a Shinto priest.

If you like, your Shikouan host can accompany you and guide you through the ritual. Typical ceremonies are for yakubarai (banishing bad luck) and michi o hiraku (literally “pave the way,” or to open up new opportunities). Isn’t this just what we need in these troubled times?

Shikouan 233-2 Shiga, Katsuragi, Ito District, Wakayama RESERVATIONS VIA AIRBNB: www.k-kotori.jp/ ACCESS: The nearest train station is Kaseda on the JR Wakayama Line. The Katsuragi Community Bus runs from JR Kaseda via Shiga Village to Amano village. Alight at Kamishiga bus stop, in front of the house. Find a bus schedule at www.town.katsuragi.wakayama.jp/010/030/20170324175324.html.

National Road 480 runs from Higashi Osaka all the way to Shiga. Alternatively, use the Kinan Expressway, Katsuragi Nishi IC. A parking space is right by the house. Driving up Koyasan takes 30 minutes from Shikouan.

See the following pages to find out more about the Choishi Michi and Mitanizaka trails.

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EXPLORE

THE JOURNEY TO

Koya -san Kansai Scene X Koya Sanroku Tourism TEXT: EDWARD J. TAYLOR

PHOTOS: MINECHIKA ENDO

DAY 1 A man on the train has what I first think is a shinai martial arts sword in a cloth bag, but as I step closer I realize that it is a wooden staff. Walking away from Myoji Station, he tells me that he’s going to take the Choishi-michi stone stupa route up to Koya-san (Mt. Koya). He smiles as he says this, his eyes bright over his white Van dyke beard, giving him a stereotypical wizened look. I’m surprised, as it is now noon and he’s got a good seven hours of climbing ahead. I’m planning on following in his footsteps tomorrow, but today I’ll be walking the Mitani-zaka route, another trail that served as one of Mt. Koya’s seven gates.

The Choishi-michi received UNESCO World Heritage Status in 2004, and although Mitani-zaka didn’t join the list until 2016, it is older. It officially begins at Niusakadono Shrine, the “male” of a pair of shrines on this side of the mount. I’ll spend the next couple of hours getting to its “female” companion. I move upward through mikan citrus orchards, passing along the way a number of rock formations, including one long stone perched atop another like a propeller. This bizarre Kasa-ishi, along with the nearby sutra-bearing Hakotate-ishi, are remnants of Kobo Daishi’s own pilgrimage up the mountain.

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Stonework suggests the teahouses that once lined the path.

Mato-iwa is just off route, a stone cube emblazoned with two ancient Buddhas. I sit awhile in its quiet splendor, before a brief push over the pass to the female Niutsuhime Shrine, founded some 1,700 years ago to honor the female deity of the mountain. It was with the blessing of this deity that Kukai built the headquarters of the Buddhist Shingon sect, of which he was founder. The grounds are shaded by massive trees, led to by a tall, arched bridge. Around the side is a quiet grove that has tall stone stele commemorating important Shugendo mountain ascetics from nearby Mt. Omine, including the sect’s founder En-no-Gyoja.

I cross a sleepy village to the old hut that once served as hermitage for Saigyo, another Buddhist monk best known for penning waka (31-syllable verse). Though the hut has been rebuilt, the graves of his wife and daughter just below are certainly original.

It is a lonely place, and I’ll pass another ancient grave as I climb to Futatsu-torii pass. True to its name, the two tall stone gates have been here since 1649, replacing older wooden ones erected by Kobo Daishi 800 years before. I rest in a covered shelter nearly, recharging with chocolate as I similarly feast on the scenery below. From here, it is all descent into the adjacent valley. Midway down, I meet the earlier pilgrim from the train, now dressed in white and striding strongly uphill with his staff.

RIGHT: NIUSAKADONO SHRINE MARKS THE START OF THE 18-KM MITANI-ZAKA ROUTE. IT CONNECTS TO THE CHOISHI-MICHI ROUTE, WHICH OFFICIALLY BEGINS AT THE 1200-YEAR-OLD JISON-IN TEMPLE IN KUDOYAMA [ABOVE].

I drop quickly down a set of steep switchbacks, passing a massive wild boar trap composed of thin cedar trunks, and open to the air like a corral. My descent continues through a pastoral, hillside village, then down to the Fudodani river, before I must climb again to the old station. I’m grateful for the benches and the vending machine as I wait for my train.

DAY 2 The following morning, I backtrack along the same rail line to Kudoyama, an old castle town associated with the Saneda samurai clan. The town’s main street takes me past a funky little coffee shop that sits at the edge of town, and whose views of the spreading rice fields make me envy the location. All is quiet at the early hour, as I bisect the low earthen walls to Jison-in Temple. As I am about to engage the friendly priest in conversation, my attention is pulled to all the breasts on display affixed to the ema prayer boards.

Associated as it is with Kobo Daishi’s mother, the temple looks after the spiritual needs of women. Women were traditionally forbidden to climb Mt. Koya, so she reputedly visited her son here nine times a month, hence Kudoyama, “nine times mountain.”

THE WORLD HERITAGE CHOISHI-MICHI ROUTE IS SO NAMED AFTER THE NUMEROUS FIVE-TIERED STONE STUPAS, CALLED CHOISHI, WHICH MARK THE WAY.

Kobo Daishi Born into a scholarly family on the island of Shikoku in 774, Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai) is a beloved figure in Japan. As a young man he journeyed to China to study the teachings of esoteric Buddhism, which was centered around highly ritualistic practices that could only be passed on from teacher to student in a monasterial setting. After returning to Japan, he founded the Shingon School (“True Word”), establishing a headquarters on Mt. Koya, also the site of his mausoleum. He is also credited with inventing the kana script and establishing the popular 88-temple pilgrimage on Shikoku, where his legacy lives on in many a legend recounted along the way.

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MT. KOYA’S CHOISHI STUPA ROUTE

E W

0.4km

8min

25min

0.5km 10min

2.4km 40min

TRAVELER’ S TIP

Kudoyama Stn

S

0.8km 15min

Kasagi Pass

N

1.4km

Niri-ishi

0m

1.3km 25min

Ogo Pond

1.3km 20min

Futatsu-torii

1.8km 35min

Furu Pass

1.3km 25min

Ropponsugi Pass

1.6km 35min

Niutsuhime-jinja

1.0km 15min

Ropponsugi Pass

200m

0.5km 8min

Amabikiyama crossroads

400m

Observatory

600m

Jison-in

800m

Sanada-an

Kudoyama Stn

1000m

DISTANCE: ABOUT 23.5 KM. TIME REQUIRED: ABOUT 7 HRS. 10 MIN. (HTTP://ENG.SHUKUBO.NET/UPFILE/STUPA-ROUTE.PDF)

● Staying at Koya-san

Sanada-an

a i Koy

ka Nan

Fudo

4

Many visitors who complete the climb to Koya-san also choose to spend the night and enjoy sightseeing the following day. Koya-san is home to 117 temples, 53 of which provide lodging for pilgrims and other travelers (Shukubo). Each of these temples offers unique accommodations featuring splendid gardens and the colorful tastes of vegetarian cooking, which includes wild edible plants from the region, as well as Koya-san's renowned goma-tofu. Visitors are sure to take home memories of an experience far beyond the ordinary.

Line

dani

Koya-shita Stn Rive

r

For Inquiries: Koyasan Shukubo Temple Lodging Cooperative Telephone: 0736-56-2616 • www.eng.shukubo.net

Jison-in Temple 179

177

Shimo-Kosawa Stn

173 180

166

167

168

170

13

Observatory

164 163

Kami-Kosawa Stn

162

Nankai Koya Line

Rt. 370 juncture

160 159 156

Amabikiyama crossroads

154

150

Kasagi Pass

B

142 144

86 90

80

Furu Pass

137

91

136

Ropponsugi Pass

109

Notes

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Stone Signpost Stupa (Choishi) Public Restroom Public Telephone Vending Machine

Rest Area

Bus Stop

Souvenir Shop

Guidepost (Kinki Nature Walkways)

Scenic Point

One of the Hundred Best Sunrise / Sunset Vistas

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116

4

113

108

96

95

Niri ishi 115

Ogo Pond

114

120

A

Niutsuhime Shrine

A long staircase takes me past the first of the stone markers that give the Choishi-michi route its name. There are 216 of these between Jison-in and the Okuno-in, the resting place of Kobo Daishi on Mt. Koya, of which some 150 date to as early as the Kamakura period (1185-1333). They accompany me as I meander up through citrus orchards. Forms of Koya culture appear now and

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Futatsu-torii

124

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COURSE A COURSE B COURSE C

Distance: about 2.7 km.

Time Required: about 45 min.

Distance: about 2.9 km.

Time Required: about 60 min.

Distance: about 3.5 km.

Time Required: about 50 min.

again, many with good English explanation about the exploits of Kobo Daishi. And of course, there are the ever-present stone markers. Somewhere around the 150 mark, two route runners come past. I hear their voices looming up from behind, and after a quick greeting, they disappear again into the trees.

I have my lunch at Futatsu-torii, under the same shelter as yesterday, then move on hypnotically along the ridgeline-tracing route, my sole companions the towering trees. It is almost startling to come upon a dozen hikers crowded around a picnic table, each older than 60. This jovial group proves generous with their snacks and their conversation.

60min

0.7km 10min

Danjo Garan

Daimon

10min

30min

3.1km Yori-ishi

0.5km

1.6km

Roadway crossing

0.6km 10min

Kesakake-ishi

Yadate

2.7km 45min

Danjo Garan

Koyasan Stn

2

Daimon 7 13

1

3 5

4

6 12

8 9

24

25

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THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN FOUNDED 1,700 YEARS AGO, NIUTSUHIME SHRINE IN AMANO VILLAGE HAS STRONG TIES TO KOBO DAISHI. TOP: A GRAND VERMILLION ARCHED BRIDGE MARKS ITS APPROACH.

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Kii-Hosokawa Stn 32

Yori-ishi

36 37 38

Scenic point 40 39

C Kesakake-ishi

48 49

Yadate 75 72

58

55

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57 59

70 64 60

Ropponsugi Pass Furu Pass Yadate

2.5km 50min 3.5km 50min

1.3km 20min

Yadate Cyaya

Niutsuhime-jinja

Rt. 370 juncture

0.4km 8min

1.4km 25min

Futatsu-torii

Kami-Kosawa Stn

Kii-Hosokawa Stn

The final hour is a pleasantly flat walk, until the route suddenly and steeply switchbacks upward, and I find myself beneath the towering gate that marks the edge of town. Stone marker Number One is a little further down the road, near the center of town. I’m relieved to find Bon On open, one of my favorite cafés in Japan.

There are only two customers, an Italian researcher busy at his computer, and an older local playing classical guitar in the corner. I chat with the owner a little, then he joins the music on his cello. The Italian and I talk softly from our respective tables, and as the shadows lengthen outside, I hurry over to my temple lodging. While Buddhists find concepts such as time arbitrary, one must not be late for dinner.

ABOVE: THE DAIMON GATE ON MT. KOYA, LAST REBUILT IN 1705, IS HOME TO A PAIR OF FEARSOME GUARDIAN STATUES. LEFT: THE APPROACH TO KONGOBUJI TEMPLE, THE HEADQUARTERS OF KOBO DAISHI’S SHINGON SCHOOL OF BUDDHISM.

ACCESS: The Choishi-michi route starts at Kudoyama Station on the Nankai Koya Line and ends at Okuno-in. Rapid express trains departing Nankai Namba Station take approximately 1 hour. The walk takes between 6-7 hours. The Mitani-zaka route starts at Myoji Station on the JR Wakayama Line, and joins the Choishi-michi at Futatsu-torii. It is possible to shorten the route by starting from Kami-Kosawa or Hosokawa stations, also on the Nankai Koya Line.

From the Danjo Garan temple complex on Mt. Koya, take Nankai Rinkan Bus from nearby Kondo-mae stop, or Senju-in-bashi stop located in front of the Koyasan Tourist Association building, to Koyasan Station. A cable car links Koyasan Station to Gokurakubashi Station for the Nankai Koya Line train. From here it takes approximately 1 hour 30 minutes back to Namba Station.

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X KANSAI SCENE

ENCOUNTERING SPIRITS ON THE KUMANO KODO Champion Trail Runner Tsuyoshi Kaburaki on the Iseji Trail TEXT: TSUYOSHI KABURAKI

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PHOTOS BY AKIHIRO SHINDO

TSUYOSHI KABURAKI (TRAIL RUNNER) Tsuyoshi Kaburaki is Japan’s leading trail runner and Committee Director at the ULTRA-TRAIL Mt. FUJI Race. Eight-time winner of the trail run in the prestigious Yamada Noboru Memorial Cup Mountain Climbing Competition and the Fuji Climbing Race champion for two consecutive years (with three wins total), he also became the first Japanese runner to finish among the top three in the 106-mile Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB).

The Runner’s Information Research Institute seeks to bring attention to some of Japan’s best destinations for running, walking and cycling, as recommended by some of the country’s foremost athletes. Discover new routes at www.runnersinfo.org

JR Aiga Stn Road Station Miyama

Line ei Main JR Kis

ei E

xpr

ess

way

Choshi River

Kis

ith a history stretching back over a millennium, the Kumano Kodo has garnered huge popularity in Japan and overseas since its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There are five pilgrimage trails that make up the Kumano Kodo: the Kiiji Route, Kohechi Route, Nakahechi Route, Ohechi Route, and the Iseji Route. The Iseji Route was used by pilgrims to travel from Ise Shrine—arguably the most important shrine in Japan—to the three Kumano Shrines.

The highlight of this long trail would have to be the Magose Pass, with its beautiful stone paving that runs between towering Owase Japanese cypress trees. Another rewarding stretch is the Yakiyamagoe trail, which is known as the most difficult in western Japan. In ancient times, though, it is said many a pilgrim never made it to their destination, and today you can see some of the graves where they fell. A special hospitality developed in the Kumano area that centered around these pilgrims. Not only would locals take care of them, but also saw to it that, should the worst happen, that their families were informed, no matter how far away.

While it may be a remote mountain path today, this was once a road well-trodden and as such there are many stories associated with it. One saying goes: “those who travel along this path may encounter the spirits of deceased, who are happy to meet them.”

Indeed, hearing these kinds of legends being retold on the Iseji Route is what makes trekking along it such a joy.

JR Owase Stn

Owase Bay

JR Osoneura Stn

8.53km

Kumano Kodo Information Center

About this route Start: Kihoku, Kitamuro District, Mie Finish: Owase, Mie Distance: 8.53 km Trail type: stone paving, earth Greenery: abundant Recommended season: year-round Nearby facilities: Miyama Roadside Station, Magoshi Park, Machikado Hot Center (Tourist Information) Average temperature: summer 27 °C, winter 6 °C Access: To reach the trailhead at Miyama Roadside Station by public transport, it is a 30-minute walk from Aiga Station on the JR Kisei Main Line, or a 10-minute walk from Washige bus stop, accessible from Owase Station. Otherwise it is a 5-minute drive on Highway 42 from the Miyama exit of Kisei Expressway.

Download a map of part of this route at the link below. This route ends at Owase Station but you can extend your walk to Kumano Kodo information Center as per this article. https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/ch/assets/download/route_map.pdf

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

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SAKE SENSEI’S

Brewery Adventures

EACH ISSUE WE EXPLORE A DIFFERENT FACET OF THE COMPLEX WORLD OF

An interview with Sake Sensei

JAPANESE SAKE AND ACCOMPANY SAKE GURU

TEXT: JULIAN HOUSEMAN

RAKUDO YOSHIDA ON A VISIT TO ONE OF KANSAI’S ICONIC BREWERIES.

SUPPORTED BY: THE JAPAN SAKE SOCIETY

K SAKE SENSEI Rakudo Yoshida is Chairman of the Japan Sake Society and has devoted the past 41 years of his life to supporting— and enjoying—Japanese sake, its brewers and associations. He also happens to be a certified laughter therapist.

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ansai Scene’s resident Sake Sensei, Rakudo Yoshida is far more than just an avid sake enthusiast. Formerly a coach of the martial art, Shorinji Kempo, and a practicing Buddhist monk, by day he works as a nurse and laughter therapist at Shiga General Hospital. He is active in the local community, helping sufferers of alcoholism (—yes, he sees the irony) as well as speaking at prisons where he helps inmates find their way back to the straight and narrow.

His free time spent dabbling in the entertainment world, with occasional appearances on TV and in various local films, Mr. Yoshida is one busy man!

Despite his hectic schedule, we caught up with Sake Sensei in his hometown of Uji in Kyoto to talk about what makes nihonshu so special and how he came to love Japan’s national drink.

Julian Houseman: What made you discover sake in the first place?

Rakudo Yoshida: Well, like many, I had bad experiences with sake when I was

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

young. When I coached Shorinji Kenpo at Kyoto University, I would go to the pub with other students and there would be ridiculous drinking games. Of course, this led to horrific hangovers and an overall bad impression of sake. It wasn’t till my thirties that I came across Kubota Senju [an enormously popular sake in the eighties from Niigata-based brewery, Asahi Shuzo and still widely available]. Just a sip of that sake was a revelation! Who knew sake could be so aromatic and flavorful? It wasn’t that harsh stuff I was used to. This led me to discover jizake, small-batch sake made by artisan breweries.

JH: What kind sake do you find yourself drinking most these days?

RY: Well, I live in Kyoto so obviously I am surrounded by great local sake. I like a bit of sake from Shiga where I was born, but I mainly drink Kyoto sake. I drink it chilled for the most part, but there are some sakes that really open up when you warm them.

people start with canned chuhai, which tastes like juice, but with an alcohol content as high as 9%! That together with the peer-pressure is a dangerous mix! It’s important to try and change the drinking culture here. No one is savoring quality alcohol at sunrise! Drink better quality sake, appreciate and savor it.

JH: Sake is basically made of four ingredients: rice, yeast, water and koji mold (also used in soy sauce and many Japanese fermented foods). There are many different opinions out there, but what do you think is the main driving ingredient?

RY: Difficult to say, but perhaps water. You can get rice from anywhere, but the water in each region is uniquely different and that can be the defining quality of sake.

For example, Kyoto has soft water; which lends itself to the softness and high drinkability that Kyoto sake is known for.

JH: Tell us a little about the Japan Sake Society?

RY: JSS is a gathering of sake enthusiasts, who started getting together about three years ago to

discover and learn more about sake. We visit breweries, have tastings and dinners, and we try to share our love of sake with a wider audience.

JH: Have you heard much about how breweries have been coping with the COVID-19 situation?

RY: It’s tough for them. I know of breweries that are selling sake for as low as 20% of its regular price. People drinking sake at home helps, but it isn’t enough to keep breweries afloat. They need the sales that come from people eating out and drinking in bars and izakayas.

JH: What do you think is a common misconception about sake?

RY: Too many people think of sake as something harsh, alcoholic and nasty. It really isn’t. I firmly believe sake is for sipping and savoring, not for drinking games and the like. If you get the chance to go to a small-scale brewery and actually see these people making sake, it’s quite humbling; they really put their heart and soul into it. I don’t believe in saying a certain sake is bad; perhaps it just doesn’t suit your palate. There are many different types available so it’s worth trying a few to find a sake that speaks to you.

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PHOTOS: ARIA AOYAMA

JH: What should people look for when they’re in a sake bar?

RY: If you don’t know any brands or can’t read the menu, ask for something refreshing (sukkiri) or light, clean (tanrei). I wish there was more sake in hotel bars! It surprises me that hotels in major cities catering to foreign tourists often only have one sake at the bar. People come here to experience Japan. They should promote sake more instead of whisky and cocktails.

JH: What do you think makes sake special compared to other alcoholic beverages?

RY: Sake goes with any kind of food.

Some people like to drink without food, but I always like to have some nibbles on hand. Sake rarely clashes with food— Japanese or Western—though it may lose out to excessively richly flavored ones. This sets it apart from beer or wine, where matching possibilities are narrower.

JH: Any particular favorite pairing?

RY: I think it would have to be sashimi.

It goes perfectly with sake. But I also like mentaiko (cod roe) and funa-zushi (fermented sushi) from Shiga. If I were to eat some steak or something fatty, I’d recommend koshu (aged sake). It handles the richness of charred meat and fat better than lighter sake.

JH: You mention that sake is for sipping as opposed to guzzling. Does this tie in with your work with helping alcoholics?

RY: Around 45% of Japanese don’t possess the enzyme to effectively break down alcohol in their system. Many young

TRAVEL

KINOSAKI: MORE THAN A HOT SPRING TOWN Renowned and revered as a hot spring retreat, Kinosaki’s visitors in the chillier months are as abundant as the famous snow crabs fished out of the local waters (see Kansai Scene’s Winter 2018 edition).

Yet, there are plenty of adventures and activities awaiting adults and children alike the year round, both in this picturesque town and its environs. With the heat dying down, now is the perfect chance for newcomers, or those who have only experienced this Kinosaki’s bathhouses, to discover another side of this welcoming corner of Hyogo Prefecture this autumn.

TEXT: MATT HODGKINS KINOSAKI’S PICTURESQUE TOWNSCAPE.

MUGIWARA ZAIKU IS AN ART FORM THAT HAS BEEN HONED IN KINOSAKI. VISITORS CAN TRY THEIR HAND AT MAKING THEIR OWN ARTWORK OR TAKE HOME A PIECE BY A MASTER ARTIST.

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Chatting with locals of Kinosaki, they are likely to share that the town has a history of being a muse for artists. They’re quick to tell interested visitors that the literary master Naoya Shiga was inspired enough to write the short story At Kinosaki after only a short stay.

Shiga isn’t the only example, either. Tomori Nagamoto, general manager of English-friendly Kobayashiya ryokan—my lodgings for the night—and contemporary artist, revealed that he produced artworks to pay for his room and board so he could stay in Kinosaki, having fallen in love with the town. This parallels the story of a craftsman named Hanhichi, who, in the mid-Edo period (1603-1868), began the tradition of mugiwara zaiku, or straw craft.

Kinosaki is the only place in Japan where this kind of traditional wheat straw craft is practiced. Several intricate steps allow the artisans who still practice mugiwara zaiku to turn dull straw into jaw-dropping works of art. Essentially, dyed straw is cut, flattened, cut again

into very thin strips, and then glued into a stunning kaleidoscope of vibrant colors and patterns. Handcrafted items made by the mugiwara zaiku maestro Toshiaki Kamiya are available for purchase at the Kamiya Folkcraft shop. Budding artists aged 12 or older who want to try making their own straw crafts can reserve a hands-on workshop with an English-speaking guide. Workshops are also offered at the Kinosaki Straw Craft Museum for all ages with limited English.

Kinosaki Straw Craft Museum 376-1 Yushima, Kinosaki-cho, Toyooka, Hyogo OPEN: 10am-4pm (last entry 3:30pm) CLOSED: Wed (If Wed is a public holiday, closed the next day) TEL: 0796-32-0515 • ENTRY: Children ¥200; Adults ¥300 WORKSHOPS: ¥400-¥1,000 depending on the item. In Japanese only. www.visitkinosaki.com/things-to-do/straw-craft-workshop/

PHOTOS: TOYOOKA CITY, MATT HODGKINS

Kinosaki’s Artistic Heritage

Kamiya Folkcraft Shop 391 Yushima, Kinosaki-cho, Toyooka, Hyogo OPEN: 10am-6pm • CLOSED: Irregular holidays HALF-DAY WORKSHOP TOUR: From ¥13,700 per person.

BOOKING FORM: www.visitkinosaki.com/tour-packages/ straw-craft-activity-and-craftsman-workshop-tour-with-english-guide/

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

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TAKE A LEISURELY CYCLING TOUR ALL THE WAY TO THE SEA OF JAPAN.

Rural Kinosaki on Bicycle For those looking to flex more than just their creative muscles, an exhilarating cycling tour run by Koyado Enn, an inn located a short distance from the station, shows off the best of Kinosaki and the surrounding area to those riding as a pair or group. The guides passionately show pedalers through the town, highlighting Gokurakuji temple, scenic side streets, and photogenic riverside views.

After highlighting the charms of the town, the tour veers off into Kinosaki’s countryside. This section of the tour weaves through backstreets, rice paddies, and over hills (for those who find inclines intimidating, electric bikes are also available). One highlight is a verdant valley where the air, if visited after a spell of rain, is filled with petrichor, dragonflies and frog song; like something from My Neighbor Totoro.

A sizable section of the tour runs along the Maruyama River, where some of Kinosaki’s lesser-known vistas can truly be appreciated. This path leads to Futakata Kamaboko, a shop that sells an array of kamaboko, or Japanese fish cakes—the guides will surely share their personal recommendations! A short incline later and the tour leads to the bosom of the Sea of Japan. The outlook offers the perfect spot to have a breather and soak in the views. A point of particular note is a series of Chinese-style pavilions sitting on an islet off the coast nicknamed Ryugu-jo, or Dragon Palace. It was

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

ABOVE: VISITORS TO KINOSAKI IN PREMODERN TIMES WOULD FIRST PAY THEIR RESPECTS AT ONSENJI TEMPLE ON MT. DAISHI, ACCESSIBLE BY CABLE CAR (RIGHT).

LEFT: KOBAYASHIYA RYOKAN IS A COZY ACCOMMODATION ALONG KINOSAKI’S MAIN BOULEVARD. GUESTS RECEIVE A FREE PASS TO ALL OF THE TOWN’S PUBLIC ONSEN FACILITIES.

built in the 1950s to honor the centuries-old legend tale of Urashima Taro, in which a fisherman of the same name unwittingly rescues a princess in the form of a turtle and accompanies her back to her undersea palace. Mercifully, the rest of the tour from this point sails downhill back to the town center for a relaxed finish. For those looking for a cheeky bite to eat afterward, a short walk to the sushi restaurant Orizuru is a decadent way to restore all those burned calories.

Kinosaki Riverside Cycling Tours March to late-November, subject to climate conditions Morning 9am-12:30pm or Afternoon 1pm-4:30pm Reservations must be made at least 5 days in advance.

BOOKING FORM: www.visitkinosaki.com/tour-packages/ kinosaki-picturesque-riverside-cycling-tour/

Kinosaki from Above If experiencing Kinosaki’s glorious outdoors isn’t enough from a saddle, visitors might also consider a quick excursion to Mt. Daishi for a panoramic view.

Located west of Kono-yu Onsen, Mt. Daishi is home to an important part of Kinosaki’s history. Onsenji Temple, located midway up the mountain, is dedicated to a Buddhist saint who prayed for 1,000 days for a way to save people from illness—resulting in the hot springs that flow to this day. Visitors

used to be required to visit the temple and pay their respects before bathing, but now the temple is an optional-but-worthwhile stop!

Eager hikers can scale stairs to the temple, or less energetic patrons can take the ropeway gondola. You can even see a highly elusive statue of an Eleven-Faced Kannon Bodhisattva, or Juichimen Kanzeon Bosatsu, currently on show until April 2021. Only displayed for three-year periods every 33 years, this designated National Treasure makes the temple well worth a visit. As for the monks living at the temple, they are not allowed to leave the town until the bodhisattva is returned to its seclusion!

Kinosaki can be admired in its entirety from the top of Mt. Daishi—just one more stop along the ropeway from Onsenji. A popular spot for couples and families, the views from the lookout are breathtaking year round. Take plenty of time soaking in the views before returning to soak in the bathhouses—and grab an onsen-tamago (hot spring-cooked egg) enroute!

Kinosaki Onsen ACCESS: Buses and JR Limited Express trains connect Kyoto, Osaka and Sannomiya in Kobe to Kinosaki Onsen, which takes between 2.5-3 hours.

Check www.visitkinosaki.com for the latest anti-COVID measures and provisions regarding use of public onsen facilities.

Ryokan Kobayashiya 369 Yushima, Kinosaki-cho, Toyooka, Hyogo From ¥13,200 per person on a sharing basis, inclusive of breakfast and dinner.

RESERVATIONS: www.visitkinosaki.com/lodging/inn/kobayashiya/

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

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BUSINESS TALK

ECOTOURISM IN JAPAN with Kiku Ezaki

When Kiku Ezaki returned to her native Toba to take over as the fifth-generation owner of her family’s ryokan, she would go on to pioneer an ecotourism LOCAL CHILDREN GUIDE VISITORS AROUND SUGASHIMA ISLAND initiative that has been hailed as a model for the AT THE ANNUAL SHIMAKKO FESTIVAL IN NOVEMBER. THE PROGRAM HELPS KIDS IMPROVE THEIR GRADES AND OPEN UP revitalization of depopulating areas all over Japan.

NEW CAREER PATHWAYS. She serves as chair on the Ecotourism Promotion Committees for Toba and Ise, and as a committee member on the Japanese government’s project to promote national parks among overseas visitors.

TEXT: KS

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Could you tell us a little about the Ise Shima and Toba area?

Ise Shima National Park covers the forests that surround Ise Grand Shrine all the way to the coast where the ama, women who practice free-dive fishing, have been living and working for some 3,000 years. The area has a long history of hosting pilgrims on their way to Ise Shrine, which is still the case today. Several shell middens have been discovered in the area that attest to this. They were built before the Iron Age, and the tools found in these mounds were made from deer antlers.

Did Toba see many of the pilgrims bound for Ise in premodern times?

Not really, as Toba is a little far from Ise if you are on foot. Toba was considered the entry point into Ise Bay and so came into its own as a port town, especially during the Edo period (1600-1868) when freight shipping was at its height. Whether from East or West, vessels would anchor here overnight before setting off to their next destination. It’s thought this is where Toba gets its name: though written differently, it sounds a little like the word for a “stop” or “bay to rest.” With the West Japan Railway, Toba is more often seen as a destination to pair with a trip to Ise these days.

My point is these initiatives started with the fishing community and have worked their way up to government, and not the other way around, which I find fascinating. And I think that’s how it should be.

Government increasingly makes decisions regarding natural resources and industry without attempting to understand the situation on the ground, which is very dangerous.

How did your business come about?

By 2010, there was a shift in consciousness, because no one until then had thought to draw on the fishing industry as a tourism resource. As time went along, I understood that we were not running tours for tourism’s sake but incorporating tourism into our way of life and in a way that serves the region.

From this point we became much more hands-on within the community. For example, we decided to designate Tuesdays and Saturdays holidays—though some people have trouble observing them, especially now that we are building a second ice facility and it is the height of the whitebait season—since there are many families here in which both husband and wife fish and spend less time with their children as a result. There were also children who were unable to participate in club activities who now can.

We also have a scheme to encourage young migrants to the area and slow the rate of depopulation, by improving working

With such a long history of fishing, there must be many people in the industry here today, right?

I wouldn’t be able to tell you the exact number but many people still are. Of course the industry has modernized but awareness surrounding the fragile nature of resources is high; indeed it’s a primary consideration here.

Are traditional fishing methods still prevalent?

Yes. For example, on Toshijima Island, where fishing is most active in the Toba area, they use 35 different fishing methods, but it’s really about resource management. This is in order to diversify their catch to avoid depleting the supply of any one species of fish. You will hear people pondering whether to use a gill net to trap some Ise lobster, or use pole and line instead.

PHOTOS: KAITO YUMIN CLUB, ARIA AOYAMA

Have there been attempts to codify this approach to resource management?

Yes, there has at the prefecture level. But we have established practices already; for example, the ama divers have observed a rule not to harvest clams or shellfish that are too early in their lifecycle since time immemorial. The fisherman community decided to switch to seaweed farming—something common among oyster farmers since they have a number of months where they have no work that needs doing—for several years to give the necessary time for fish stocks to recover. These decisions are not necessarily straightforward: sometimes the market is just not strong enough or, in the case of an attempt to harvest akamoku seaweed, this posed a dilemma because the beds also serve as habitat for young fry.

KIKU EZAKI SERVING SALTWATER EEL, A SUMMER SPECIALTY, AT HER FAMILY-RUN LODGING, RYOKAN KAIGETSU.

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KAYAKING THROUGH A SEAWEED-RICH PATCH AROUND ONE OF TOBA’S UNINHABITED ISLANDS. AMA DIVERS ALSO FISH IN THESE WATERS.

conditions, finding new ways to expand the market, and providing the services for budding fishermen and women to make a living. I think this process starts with the families here asking their kids to come back from the cities. Once they prove what a comfortable life can be made here, then others should follow, but it is difficult.

Are you hopeful that they will return?

Sometimes the families just need to be reminded! The children of Toba have a special bond with the community in which they grew up. We have a long-standing custom designated an intangible heritage, called “neyako,” whereby boys—usually the eldest in the family—after graduating from middle school will spend the evenings and stay overnight at another household that has been given a guardianship role. They will continue to attend with up to around 10 other boys until it is time to become independent or get married.

These boys develop a deep friendship, learn to fish and play an important role in local festivals. One theory as to its origin is that in the past fishing required a group of people to row a boat out to sea and be able to use the same fishing methods, so the neyako system made coordination much easier.

That all being said, it’s established practice that the eldest son will start fishing at high school age and be the one to take over the family boat, while the second or third sons will finish high school

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and end up leaving. Of course, sometimes the eldest son decides they have had enough of fishing, and the second son decides they are fed up of city life, and there is a role swap!

Going back to your business, Kaito Yumin Club, how did you get started?

My initial concept was based around the Toba of my childhood, as a place where you can enjoy simple pleasures: being by the sea and fishing just about anywhere. But I remember taking a group of schoolchildren to my old fishing spots on one of my first tours, and was horrified to find we couldn’t catch a thing. I asked a pleasure boat operator to take me around and find more reliable fishing spots as a priority. Then it hit me that I ought to use fishing experiences as a way to deepen these children’s understanding of our environment and the problems we face instead. At that point the business pivoted towards ecotourism.

I was also aware that the natural environments of uninhabited islands that do not fall under the National Park designation stood to be degraded, and so I started sustainable tours of these islands, cooperating with locals in their conservation.

The four pillars of ecotourism are conservation, education, tourism and regional revitalization, but for me, it is also about people—since they coexist with nature—and where they live too. I

AN ECOTOURISM RESEARCH GROUP FROM PALAU COOKING SOME FRESHLY CAUGHT SPANISH MACKEREL.

CHILDREN ON A SCHOOL TRIP LEARN ABOUT LIFE IN AN ISLAND COMMUNITY.

FOODIE TOUR PARTICIPANTS ENJOY SOME TASTY BITES FROM THE LOCAL SHOPPING ARCADE.

TAKING THE TIME TO LISTEN TO THE CONCERNS OF LOCAL PEOPLE IS KEY TO THE ECOTOURISM INITIATIVE.

pointed this out to those who told me the foodie walks through town that I run are “not really ecotourism,” and they began to understand.

We are not a charity but what we do directly impacts the community and the environment in a positive way. As a result, the “Toba Model” is being increasingly recognized as a way forward for other communities around Japan and overseas to revitalize their areas. And because the relationship with nature is so strong in Japan, I feel this approach will be easier to implement.

A WAKAME SEAWEED HARVESTING EXPERIENCE

Do you accommodate foreigners on your tours?

Of course, though it’s a good idea to bring your own amenities and active gear, as there are few places to purchase around here. We offer one-day and half-day experiences.

And what do you recommend as an activity here this autumn?

The fish are delicious and the breeze for sea kayaking is wonderful, but I also highly recommend a trip to Toshijima at this time of year.

The theme of our tour is “In search of the ama divers”: After strolling through town and checking out the market, we head to the harbor where the ama-san’s huts are, and we may be able to catch someone on their way out to sea—that is, if they are not hanging out in the cafeteria!

Kaito Yumin Club 1-4-53 Toba, Toba, Mie TEL: 0599-28-0001 www.oz-group.jp/kaitoyumin/ SEE ALSO: The Mermaids of Mie https://www.kansaiscene.com/2019/06/ mermaids-of-mie/

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CULTURE

THE MOON IN A SAKE CUP The Custom of Tsukimi in Japan TEXT: EDWARD J. TAYLOR

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PHOTO: HIROAKI KANEKO

E

ven in this year of uncertainties, one thing we can always count on is the turning of the heavens. It is interesting the divide between those cultures that place higher precedence in the sun, and those who prioritize the moon. Although the Japanese consider its imperial line as descending from Amaterasu the Sun Goddess, culturally speaking, the moon takes on far greater importance.

The Chinese philosophy of Yin and Yang uses the moon as a primary example of yin: femininity, passivity, softness, rest.

Even in contemporary Japan, the softer facets of Japanese culture have their roots in China, and few things feel as restful as gazing at the moon. Rising after the harvest, the autumn moon is an important cue for people to begin turning their attention toward leisure.

The traditions of autumnal moon viewing began with the Imperial court, during the culturally effluent Tang Dynasty (618–907). This Mid-Autumn Festival spread throughout Asia, arriving in Japan as early as the 8th century Nara period (710–794).

Moon viewing parties (tsukimi) took on a more grandiose form in the Heian period (794–1185), as aristocrats celebrated its beauty in music and verse while trying to drink down the moon’s reflection in a cup of sake. As in China, offerings were made to the moon in the form of soybeans or fruit.

Sometime during the near incessant warfare of the three centuries that followed, swordsmiths found that when the forge-heated steel took on the color of the autumn moon, the edge of the sword was ready to be tempered.

By the Edo period (1603–1868), commoners too had joined in the festivities, offering part of their rice harvest to the gods as thanks. Celebrations were held even at times when the moon wasn’t visible. Known as Ugetsu (Rain Moon), the word can be found in the title of Ueda Akinari’s 1776 horror story Ugetsu Monogatari (Tales of Moonlight and Rain), and in Mizoguchi Kenji’s Academy Award-nominated 1953 film.

The sweeping cultural changes of the Meiji period (1868 - 1912) ushered in what we’d consider to be “modern Japan,” one being the shift from the Chinese Lunar Calendar to the Western Gregorian, the

movement of the sun now dictating the movements of society in The Land of the Rising Sun. But the moon never lost its importance, and the custom of tsukimi still continues. The peak night is known as Jugoya, marking the 15th day of the eighth month of the traditional lunar calendar, which this year falls on October 1.

People still make offerings to the moon in the form of sweet potatoes, and decorate with pampas grass, which resembles the offerings of rice stalks made by the ancestors. As well as sake, the moon-viewing custom is accompanied by eating tsukimi dango, round white rice cakes that resemble the moon and are thought to bring health and happiness. A large number of restaurants serve tsukimi soba or tsukimi udon, which is a bowl of

pounding mochi, mochitsuki, is a pun on mochizuki, or full moon.

There are some who may not look at the moon at all, too focused on sake and rice cakes. The proverb Hana yori dango (“Better rice cakes than blossoms”) infers that a feast for the eyes can’t match one for the stomach. I suppose we already know what these types are up to during cherry blossom viewing parties too.

There are ample places to view the autumn moon throughout Kansai, the most romantic being watching it rise behind Himeji Castle. The grounds of Ise Shrine are similarly magical that night. Another popular place is Arashiyama, following the custom of the ancient nobility who watched it pass over Togetsukyo Bridge (“Moon Crossing Bridge”) or from boats on

ISHIYAMADERA TEMPLE IS WHERE MURASAKI WROTE SECTIONS OF THE TALE OF GENJI TO THE LIGHT OF THE AUTUMN MOON.

noodles topped with a raw egg. Fast food places offer tsukimi burgers, with a fried egg laid atop the meat. Some confectioners make mooncakes, commonly found in Chinese communities. Throughout the country, teachers of traditional tea ceremony craft a special meal.

A popular pastime (perhaps due to the sake) is to find the silhouette of a rabbit pounding mochi rice cakes with a mortar on the face of the moon, whose origins may lie in Buddhist tale about a rabbit that offered itself to a famished interstellar traveler, in the ultimate form of self-sacrifice. Moved, the traveler returned to the moon with the rabbit, where they’ve been visible ever since.

Another possible theory is that the word for

Daikakuji Temple’s Osawa Pond.

As the Buddhists see the full moon as a symbol of enlightenment, many temples throughout Kyoto open their grounds to night viewing at this time. Kyoto’s bigger Shinto shrines also mark the occasion with festivals, despite their aforementioned connection with the sun goddess. (Refer to the listings pages of this issue.)

At the time of writing, it is still too early to predict whether or not these events will be held during this particular year, due to health concerns. But no bother. The best spot is the west bank of the Kamogawa river, as the moon rises over the Higashiyama hills. A fine reminder that all things, good and bad, will wax and eventually wane.

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What’s On Events & Festivals HYOGO

CHINESE MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL 第23回 中秋節

Oct 1-11 • Kobe Nankinmachi Kobe's Chinatown comes to life for the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival, also known as the Mooncake Festival. As an alternative to the annual festivities, participating restaurants will serve up authentic Chinese cuisine at reduced prices. On October 1st, the actual day of the festival, decorations will appear in the central pavilion, with a lottery held on the 3rd, 4th, 10th and the 11th. Check the website and social media for more details about their livestreamed events. 南京町商店街振興組合

TIME: All day • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Hanshin Line, Motomachi Stn, 5-min walk • nankinmachi.or.jp

What’s On Guide 32

KYOTO

SHINSENEN KYOGEN

OSAKA

YATAI STALL FESTIVAL 2020 テレビ大阪YATAI フェス！2020

Sep 18-20 • Osaka Castle Park Serving up everything from ramen to croquettes, and even featuring a Michelin-starred chef, this exciting, five-day culinary event hosts a vast array of booths offering delicacies from all over the country. Purchase your food and drink tickets at the exchange booth to use at the stalls.

TIME: 10am–8pm (from 11am ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR

on Sep 18; until 5pm on Sep 22) • Osakajokoen Stn • tv-osaka.co.jp/

tvofes/

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神泉苑狂言

Nov 6-8 • Shinsenen Temple In this ancient Japanese performing art, masked actors entertain the audience with their animated gestures.

Wearing colorful costumes and accompanied by temple bells, flutes and taiko drums, the actors perform at the historic Shinsenen temple. Kyogen, literally meaning “mad words,” is a traditional comedy that teaches Buddhist beliefs through comic stories.

Unlike more widespread kyogen styles, all the actors wear masks and play without dialog in Shinsenen Kyogen.

TIME: 6:30pm–9:30pm (Nov 6), 1pm–5:30pm & 6:30pm–9:30pm (Nov 7-8) • ADMISSION: Donations appreciated • Kyoto Subway Tozai Line, Nijojo-mae Stn, 2-min walk • shinsenen.org

NARA

AUTUMN KEMARI BALL GAME けまり祭

Nov 3 • Tanzan Shrine Wearing bright kimono, performers gracefully kick and pass a football in this

classical courtiers game held at Tanzan Shrine. The Shrine is famous for being the site where the Taika Reforms, instituting a Chinese-style of governance, were ratified in 645 AD. It is believed that two men who formulated the Reforms became close friends through the kemari ball game.

TIME: 11am • ADMISSION: ¥600 adults, concessions • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Line, Sakurai Stn, bus to Tanzan-jinja • tanzan.or.jp

SHIGA

HARVEST MOON CELEBRATION 秋月祭

Oct 2-3 • Ishiyamadera Temple The author of The Tale of Genji penned sections of the world's oldest novel while admiring the reflection of the moon in Lake Biwa from Ishiyamadera Temple. In a recreation of the ancient custom of moon-viewing, the temple precincts are illuminated with a total of 2,000 lanterns and candles for visitors to enjoy a tranquil stroll.

TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: ¥600, concessions • ACCESS: Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line, Ishiyamadera Stn, 10-min walk • ishiyamadera.or.jp

What’s On Events & Festivals

See Kansaifinder.com for more

OSAKA

BELLOWS FESTIVAL 鞴祭り

Nov 8 • Ikutama Shrine Ikutama Shrine is home to Kaguchi, the god of fire and metalworking. During Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s reign in the late 16th century, swordsmiths resided in the neighborhood surrounding Ikutama Shrine. In this festival, a demonstration of swordsmithing is offered to the deity.

Participants in sacred Shinto garb withdraw the bellows from the shrine, prepare metal scraps, and forge a traditional ingot of steel using the techniques of professional swordsmiths long ago.

IKUTAMA-SHRINE

TIME: 11am-12pm (noon) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Tanimachi Subway Line, Tanimachi-9-Chome Stn, 4-min walk • ikutamajinja.jp

NARA

NARA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL なら国際映画祭

Sep 18-22 • TBD Celebrating its tenth year, the festival and competition features a wide array of films from young up-and-coming directors all over the world, including students. Hosted in the historical city of Nara, this is an exclusive chance to watch rarely-seen films. This year's program consists of the NARAtive 2020 Premier, featuring a film shot in Nara by a young director; filmmaking workshops, a special session on Catalan film and other related events.

TIME: Opening event TBD (Sep 18); 10:30am-9pm (Sep 19-22) • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 per film • ACCESS: JR Nara or Kintetsu Nara Stn • https://nara-iff.jp/

SHIGA

HORSEBACK MARTIAL ARTS FESTIVAL 馬上武芸奉納祭

Nov 30 • Kamo Shrine Colorfully-dressed equestrians perform a variety of martial arts on horseback in this religious festival at Omi-hachiman's Kamo Shrine, which has long had an association with horses. Performers wield bows and arrows, naginata (an elongated spear) and flags in their challenging routines.

KYOTO

VEGAN GOURMET FESTIVAL 京都ビーガングルメ祭り2020 Autumn

TIME: 10:30am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus to Kamohigashi • kamo-jinjya.or.jp

Nov 8 • Umekoji Park Japan's largest vegan festival returns to Kyoto's leafy Umekoji Park. About 60 vendors serve up organic, macrobiotic and raw foods, completely free of animal products including dairy and honey.

TIME: 10am-4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Sagano Line, Umekoji-Kyotonishi Stn • vegefes.com

Check before you go!

Event schedules are subject to change or may be cancelled due to COVID-19 concerns.

Please consult the webpages or ask your concierge to make enquiries before you go.

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Sights & Attractions Osaka Museums

THE MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS, OSAKA Regarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum for ceramic enthusiasts. It is located in leafy Nakanoshima next to the iconic Central Public Hall. ///dealings.lifelong.mimics • 1-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6223-0055 • moco.or.jp

CUPNOODLES MUSEUM This offbeat museum in Ikeda pays tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of the instant noodle.

Great for kids, there are fun, hands-on activities and, for only ¥300, you can design your own bespoke cup noodles (takes about 45 mins). ///candles.shell.magic • 8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda • TEL: 072-752-3484 • cupnoodlesmuseum.jp

OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUM This educational museum on Nakanoshima Island boasts four floors of more than 200 interactive exhibits and displays designed to help children learn about chemistry, electricity, energy, and the universe. The planetarium’s main dome has a radius of almost 27 meters, making it the largest in Japan and the seventh-largest in the world. ///owns.trusts.hostels • 4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6444-5656 • sci-museum.jp

MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND LIVING This museum depicts everyday Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life-sized interactive recreation of an Edo-era neighborhood. ///wipe.natural.spray • 6-4-20 Tenjinbashi, Kita Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6242-1170 • konjyakukan.com

Monuments and Landmarks

SUMIYOSHI SHRINE Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Founded in the 3rd century before Buddhism came to the country, it has a distinctive architectural style called Sumiyoshi-zukuri that is free of influence from mainland Asia.

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///author.condiment.nozzle • 2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6672-0753 • sumiyoshitaisha.net

OSAKA

ABENO HARUKAS

OSAKA CASTLE

Japan’s tallest skyscraper at 300m in height is home to an observatory, an art museum, and a hotel as well as a slew of restaurants and hundreds of shops.

If it’s your first time to Osaka then you are duty-bound to visit this 400-year-old castle in the beautiful grounds of the expansive Osaka Castle Park. The small museum inside offers a thorough insight into its history. ///surround.librarian.shins • 1-1 Osakajo, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6941-3044 • osakacastle.net

///handwriting.lobby.chefs • 1-1-43 Abenosuji, Abeno Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6624-1111 • abenoharukas-300.jp

UMEDA SKY BUILDING One of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, the Floating Garden Observatory connecting its two towers offers 360-degree panoramic views. ///fields.pining.rocked • 1-1-88 Oyodonaka, Kita Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6440-3900 • skybldg.co.jp

TSUTENKAKU TOWER Tsutenkaku is one of Osaka’s most iconic landmarks presiding over the Shinsekai area near Tennoji. There are observation decks on the 4th and 5th floors, although at just 103m high, it is dwarfed by the nearby Abeno Harukas. ///ants.seasons.these • 1-18-6 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6641-9555 • tsutenkaku.co.jp

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN Giant movie-themed amusement park with thrills and spills for all ages featuring characters from the Universal stable, including Harry Potter, Spiderman, and the Minions. ///talents.humans.oils • 2-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward, Osaka • TEL: 0570-200-606 • usj.co.jp

Attractions

SPA WORLD

OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKAN

A giant hot-spring theme park with a huge choice of fanciful baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its upper floors. Open 24 hrs.

One of the largest public aquariums in the world, visitors head to the eighth floor to start the tour and gradually spiral downward floor by floor around the central tank, which houses a whale shark. There are around 15 other tanks, each representing a specific region of the Pacific Rim. ///deserved.gamer.shark • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6576-5501 • kaiyukan.com

LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER OSAKA A great place for the kids to let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, small rides and 4D cinema that form this indoor LEGO playground. Save money on the entry fee with the Osaka Amazing Pass, which gets you into several of the city’s attractions, including Legoland, over a one- or two-day period. ///paths.teachers.themes • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato Ward, Osaka • TEL: 0800-100-5346 • legolanddiscoverycenter.jp

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///sugars.stews.napped • 3-4-24 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6631-0001 • spaworld.co.jp

EXPO CITY Located in Suita in the north of Osaka, Expo City is a multi-venue complex home to a state-of-theart aquarium, Japan’s highest Ferris wheel called Redhorse OSAKA WHEEL, an animal sanctuary called Nifrel, and the Lalaport shopping center.

///friends.teachers.tragedy • Big Step 3F, 1-6-14 Nishi-shinsaibashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6258-5000 • silverballplanet.jp

SILVER BALL PLANET Japan’s mecca for pinball machines housing over 100 machines dating from the 1970s to the present day. ///friends.teachers.tragedy • Big Step 3F, 1-6-14 Nishi-shinsaibashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6258-5000 • silverballplanet.jp

KANSAI CYCLE SPORTS CENTER A bicycle-themed amusement park located in the hills south of Osaka. With pedal-powered roller coasters, a cycle luge, swings, and a host of crazy bikes to try out, this is a fun day out for the whole family. ///dislodge.blusher.officers • 1304 Amanocho, Kawachinagano • TEL: 0721-54-3101 • kcsc.or.jp

Need extra help getting around?

The What3words app identifies 3m x 3m squares across the planet with a unique three-word address. This navigation system is particularly useful in Japan where signs are hard to read (if you don’t speak Japanese) and sometimes your map app will take you to the vicinity of a shop, cafe, restaurant, temple, etc., but you don’t know exactly where the entrance is. The three words for a site are presented using three slashes: /// To use: download the What3words app and enter the three words written down for a site (after this symbol: ///) into the app and the location will appear on your device.

The system even works offline.

Sights & Attractions

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Kyoto Museums

NIJO CASTLE The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo Castle encompasses several gardens and the beautifully preserved Ninomaru Palace whose lavishly decorated rooms feature ornate woodwork and stunning wall paintings. ///party.lorry.withdraw • 541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-841-0096 • city.kyoto.jp

KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART The gallery houses a superb collection of both Japanese and Western modern art with some excellent temporary exhibitions and can be found across the road from the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art. ///privately.shears.hotels • 26-1 Okazaki Enshojicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-761-4111 • momak.go.jp

KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM This is one of Japan’s oldest museums housing a permanent collection of Japanese artefacts, treasures, and artworks. ///someone.piston.dots • 527 Chayacho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-525-2473 • kyohaku.go.jp

KYOTO INTERNATIONAL MANGA MUSEUM This massive collection of contemporary and historical manga, comics, and graphic novels housed in a former primary school is a huge hit with manga and comic buffs the world over. ///dearest.tractor.between • 452 Kinbukicho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-254-7414 • kyotomm.jp

Monuments and Landmarks

KINKAKUJI TEMPLE One of Kyoto’s most iconic sites, the exquisite golden pavilion, whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf, was once the retirement villa of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu.

It became a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408. Absolutely stunning after a snowfall. ///demand.inviting.spotted • 1 Kinkakuji-cho, Kita Ward • TEL: 075-461-0013 • shokoku-ji.jp

Attractions

GEAR A long-running non-verbal theater show that continues to delight all ages. It mixes mime, dancing, magic, juggling, and contemporary special effects. ///awake.smaller.handwriting • 1928 Bldg.

3F, 56 Benkeiishi-cho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-254-6520 • gear.ac

KYOTO AQUARIUM

TODAIJI TEMPLE

A modern aquarium in Umekoji Park with aquatic creatures presented across 12 different themed areas. Great for a rainy-day activity or for families with young children.

This temple with its 15m-high Buddha is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and draws a steady stream of visitors.

///soldiers.grants.alright • 35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-354-3130 • kyoto-aquarium.com

TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARK There’s lots of fun to be had at this old Edo-themed movie park with a brilliant ninja show, staged samurai fights, and the chance to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets. ///seasons.zealous.maternal • 10 Uzumasa Higashihachioka-cho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-864-7716 • toei-eigamura.com

Museums

NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM Expanding over four buildings with wheelchair access, this museum holds treasures from the Nara period (710 to 784 AD) plus Buddhist and decorative art from around Japan with explanations in English. ///officers.sweetly.actor • 50 Noboriojicho, Nara • TEL: 050-5542-8600 • narahaku. go.jp/english/index_e.html

///export.hairpin.pound • 10-6 Noboriojicho, Nara • TEL: 0742-23-3968 • pref.nara.jp/11842.htm

Monuments and Landmarks

This 30,000-square-meter space features 53 engines ranging from the Japan’s oldest steam locomotive to more recent shinkansen models. Kids will go crazy for the train simulators and interactive dioramas. ///selects.costumes.moral • Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 0570-080-462 • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp

///announce.mascots.prove • 160 Kasuganocho, Nara • TEL: 0742-22-7788 • kasugataisha.or.jp

Hyogo KOBE FASHION MUSEUM

Nara’s main art museum has an extensive collection of Japanese art with a focus on the Edo and Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate every two to three months and explanations of most pieces are in English. There is a good museum shop and regular free workshops and activities for families. Free for seniors and for foreigners with ID.

KYOTO RAILWAY MUSEUM

KASUGA SHRINE An ancient Shinto shrine famous for its stunning vermillion-colored columns, it is approached along an atmospheric forest path lined with hundreds of stone lanterns.

Museums

Nara

NARA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF ART

KYOTO

///lighten.cult.self • 406-1 Zoshicho, Nara • TEL: 0742-22-5511 • todaiji.or.jp

NARA PARK A huge ancient park and the focal point for any visit to Nara. Droves of wild deer will follow you around as you explore the park’s stunning temples, gardens, and museums, hoping you may feed them special deer crackers. ///rinses.safest.select • TEL: 0742-22-0375 • nara-park.com

Situated on Rokko Island, this is Japan’s first museum dedicated to the world of fashion. It houses a large public library on its 3rd floor. ///beeline.betrayal.marked • 2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-858-0050 • fashionmuseum.or.jp

KOBE ANPANMAN CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALL Great for young kids, this is a fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland district, dedicated to the surreal world of popular Japanese children’s character Anpanman. ///develops.mixer.credited • 1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-341-8855 • kobe-anpanman.jp

Monuments and Landmarks

HIMEJI CASTLE Perched upon a hill where its towers can be seen for miles, this picturesque fortress is nicknamed Shirasagi-jo (“White Heron Castle”) because of its brilliant, white exterior and unique tower structuring. ///dash.flashing.brick • 68 Honmachi, Himeji • TEL: 079-285-1146 • city.himeji.lg.jp

NUNOBIKI HERB GARDENS & ROPEWAY Enjoy a stunning ropeway ride before exploring the charming herb gardens and greenhouse exhibits at the top of Mt. Rokko.

This is a great place for kids to let off some steam or for a romantic twilight date.

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What’s On Art & Exhibitions OSAKA

collection.

SHIMA SEIEN 50TH ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITION

9:30am-5pm (last entry 4:30 pm) • CLOSED: Mondays (Tue if Mon is a national holiday), Sep 23 • ADMISSION: ¥300 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Tennoji Stn • TEL: 06-6771-4874 • osaka-art-museum.jp/en/def_evt/ shima-seien

OSAKA

MASTERPIECES FROM THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON The National Museum of Art, Osaka • Nov 3 to Jan 31 The National Gallery, London houses one of the world’s finest collections of Western art. This is the first large-scale exhibit of the museum’s collection abroad; it features a selection of 61 works reflecting the museum’s pan-European collection.

From 15th-century Renaissance paintings to 20th-century modern art, a wide range of genres is featured. The works are separated into seven themes, including the Italian Renaissance, Dutch Painting of the Golden Age and French Modern Art in Britain. Rembrandt, Vermeer and Monet are a few of the many celebrated artists highlighted. Van Gogh’s famous Sunflowers, which has never before been shown in Japan, is also on display.

This exhibit marks the 50th anniversary of the death of Shima Seien (1892-1970), one of Japan’s most renowned female Nihonga artists.

Nihonga is a genre that emerged in the late 19th century to refer to a style of painting that drew on Japanese techniques and materials but were ultimately differentiated from traditional Japanese painting in the way that perspective and composition was employed, in subject matter, and so on.

Shima was a self-taught painter who went on to study under celebrated artists of the time, and at age 20 garnered national attention for her work, Evening in Soemon-cho, awarded the top prize at the Japan Art Academy’s 6th Bunten Exhibition. She is known for her paintings of women, her hometown of Sakai in Osaka, and her self-portrait—then still an atypical subject of painting in Japan. This exhibit comprises 88 pieces from the Shima family’s private

OPEN: 9am-5:30pm (Fri and Sat open until 8pm) *Last admission 30 minutes before closing.• CLOSED: Nov 16, Nov 24, Nov 30, Dec 14, Dec 30 to Jan 2 and Jan 18 *Open hours and closed dates are subject to change. Please confirm the latest information on the office website. • ADMISSION: Please confirm on the official website. • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Watanabebashi Stn • TEL: 06-6447-4680 • artexhibition.jp/london2020/

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OSAKA

THE PIONEERS: MASTERS OF EDO PAINTING Abeno Harukas Art Museum • Sep 12 to Nov 8 This exhibit highlights the master artists of Japan’s Edo Period (1603-1868). The Edo Period was a time of relative peace and prosperity, and with the country’s borders shut to the outside world, the country’s artists were prompted to look for sources of inspiration closer to home.

This era produced a number of avant-garde artists, including Ito Jakuchu, Nagasawa Rosetsu and Soga Shohaku, whose works of abstract, radical monochrome ink painting have become widely appreciated in recent years. The exhibit also showcases the work of Rinpa School pioneer Tawaraya Sotatsu, Maruyama Okyo and Katsushika Hokusai, whose print The Great Wave off Kanagawa is perhaps the

most widely-recognized piece of Japanese art. Works from a total of 35 painters and printmakers are exhibited.

OPEN: 10am-8pm (Tues - Fri), 10am-6pm (Mon, Sat, Sun, & national holidays) (last entry 30 min before closing) • CLOSED: Sep 28, Oct 12, 26 (all Mondays) • ADMISSION: ¥1,400 (Advance: ¥1,200) • ACCESS: 3-min walk from Tennoji Stn • TEL: 06-4399-9050 • aham.jp/exhibition/ future/kisai/

KYOTO

MORIGUCHI KUNIHIKO: YUZEN / DESIGN – CROSSROADS OF CREATIVITY MOMAK • Oct 13 to Dec 6 Moriguchi Kunihiko is a renowned textile artist and master of the yuzen resist dyeing technique, which originated in Kyoto in the 17th century. In yuzen dyeing, rice paste is the material of choice to prevent the washing of colors and enable intricate patterns to be painted directly onto the fabric.

Moriguchi learned the technique from his father, himself a yuzen master, but was inspired greatly by Western art having spent a period studying at Paris’ Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs. Moriguchi

SHIGA

IKUO HIRAYAMA'S SILK ROAD Sagawa Art Museum • Sep 5 to Nov 23 This exhibition marks 90 years since the birth of Nihonga (Japanese-style painting) painter Ikuo Hirayama (1930-2009), who was one of Japan’s leading postwar artists. As a survivor of the Hiroshima atomic bombing, he was an antinuclear activist throughout his life, exploring themes of Buddhism and peace in his work. Hirayama is known for his paintings of the Silk Road—the vast trading network that connected the Far East and Southern Europe. In his search for the origins of Japanese culture and with a desire to spread a message of peace and conciliation, Hirayama traveled several stretches of the Silk Road in his lifetime, starting with a visit to Turkey in 1966. This exhibit focuses on his paintings of scenes from along the Silk Road, the most notable of which are the evocative desert landscapes of Iraq and Iran.

OPEN: 9:30am-5pm (last entry 4:30pm) • CLOSED: Mon (Tue if Mon is national holiday) • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 (special exhibit may vary) • ACCESS: 30-min bus ride from JR Moriyama Stn/15-min bus ride from Katata Stn • TEL: 077-585-7800 • sagawa-artmuseum.or.jp/ plan/2020/04/90.html

*Contents are subject to change due to circumstances surrounding COVID-19. Please confirm the latest information on the museum website before you visit.

《オリエントの曙》1971年 箱根・芦ノ湖 成川美術館 蔵

VINCENT VAN GOGH, SUNFLOWERS, 1888, OIL ON CANVAS ©THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON. BOUGHT, COURTAULD FUND, 1924

Osaka City Museum of Fine Art • Sep 5 to Oct 11

OPEN:

What’s On Art & Exhibitions

See Kansaifinder.com for more

KYOTO

KYOTOGRAPHIE Various. Check the website for a full list of venues. • Sep 19 to Oct 18

Top: Wing Shya, In the Mood for Love, 2000.

Left: ©Omar Victor Diop, Courtesy of Magnin-A Gallery Right: Sallé standing behind a grand piano at the National Institute for Blind Youth, Paris, France 2013 ©︎Marie Liesse

KYOTO

SPECIAL EXHIBITION IN CELEBRATION OF THE EMPEROR'S ENTHRONEMENT: TREASURES FROM THE IMPERIAL PALACE Kyoto National Museum • Oct 10 to Nov 23 This exhibit of a wide array of art and artifacts from the Imperial Palace collection is to commemorate the 2019 enthronement of Emperor Naruhito and the beginning of the Reiwa Era. The show includes pieces from the original imperial palace in Kyoto as well as masterworks from Tokyo's Sannomaru Shozokan, or the Museum of the Imperial Collections, many of which are shown outside of Tokyo for the first time. Among the exhibits are furniture pieces from Kyoto’s Imperial Palace, painted fusuma sliding doors and calligraphic scrolls, as well as kimono and special ceremonial wear worn by members of the royal family.

17th-century masterworks from the proponents of the Rinpa School, including Tawaraya Sotatsu and Ogata Korin, are also on display.

OPEN: 9:30am–6pm (last entry 5:30pm) • CLOSED: Mondays (Tue if Mon is national holiday) • ADMISSION: TBD • ACCESS: 7-min walk from Shichijo Stn • TEL: 075-525-2473 • www.kyohaku. go.jp • meiho2020.jp (Japanese only)

pushes the boundaries of yuzen by combining traditional designs with geometric patterns and graphic design techniques.

Kunihiko’s work has been used in traditional media like kimono as well as more contemporary design; one of his geometric patterns can be found adorning Mitsukoshi department store’s shopping bags.

OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (last entry 30 min before closing), 9:30am-8pm (Fri and Sat) • CLOSED: Mondays • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 (¥800 after 5pm Fri and Sat) • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Stn • TEL: 075-761-4111 • https://www.momak.go.jp/English/

HYOGO

DENMARK DESIGN Kobe Fashion Museum • Sep 19 to Nov 8 This exhibit comprises some 200 pieces representative of Danish design, curated with the cooperation of the Danish Design Museum. Denmark, one of Europe’s major design

powerhouses, has produced many a design icon, including the famous furniture designers Hans Wegner and Arne Jacobsen, famous for their comfortable yet stylish “egg” and “swan” chairs.

Pieces on display include furniture, tableware, light fixtures and the famous Royal Copenhagen porcelain. The pieces represent the elements of Danish design: created with a focus on craftsmanship, they are at once simple and sophisticated, innovative yet highly functional, and above all, aesthetically pleasing.

OPEN: 10am-6pm (last entry 5:30pm) • CLOSED: Mondays (except for Sep 21), Sep 23 • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS:

10-minute ride on Rokko Liner from JR Sumiyoshi or Hanshin Uozaki Stn to Island Center Stn • TEL: 078-858-0055 • fashionmuseum.or.jp/ special/ (Japanese only)

KYOTOGRAPHIE is an international event held for several weeks every spring in Kyoto with the aim of cultivating an appreciation of photography. In a style unique to both Japan and Asia, photography exhibits are staged throughout the city in a variety of venues—both historic and modern—that offer ample opportunities for dramatic scenography. The festival showcases the work of a diverse group of thirteen world-renowned artists and rising stars within the world of photography. Among those featured in this year’s edition on the theme of "VISION," postponed from the spring, are Dutch installation artist and photographer Marjan Teeuwen, who will unveil her new project in a Kyoto machiya slated for demolition, and Atsushi Fukushima, a bento lunch delivery man who captures striking portraits of his elderly customers. Don’t miss the concurrent KG+ satellite event.

OPEN: Various • ADMISSION: Passports with access to all venues: ¥4,000 (Advance: ¥3,500); Students: ¥3,000 (Advance: ¥2,500) • ACCESS: Various • TEL: 075-708-7108 • kyotographie.jp/?lang=en

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

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What’s On Live Music The following events are subject to change; please check with the venue before you go. Venues require patrons to wear a mask and keep conversation to a minimum, but may have additional anti-COVID-19 measures in place, so we also advise asking them directly. For additional event dates, see www.kansaifinder.com

QUEENESS

D'ERLANGER

Oct 18

Nov 1 & 23

Popular Japanese Queen tribute band

Japanese rock band from Kyoto

Rock • Club Quattro • 5pm • ¥4,500 • TEL: 044-276-8841

WYOLICA Oct 20 Japanese folk-pop guitar and vocal duo

ROCK & POP

THE 50 KAINTENZ

Pop • Billboard Live Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,200/¥7,200 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

LAMP IN TERREN Oct 29

VAUNDY & FUJII KAZE

Japanese four piece pop band

Sep 3

Pop • Taku Taku • 6:45pm • ¥3,900 • TEL: 075-351-1321

Singer-songwriters ft. established musician Vaundy and newcomer, Fujii Kaze Singer-songwriters • Big Cat • 6:45pm • ¥5,500

Sep 4

THE 50 KAINTENZ

CHIHIRO YAMANAKA

Japanese folk-pop accordionist

Sep 22

Sep 12

Pop • Kyoto Muse • 4:30pm • ¥5,500 • TEL: 075-223-0389

Japanese garage rock trio

Japanese jazz pianist

Rock • Varit • 3:30pm/6pm • ¥3,900 • TEL: 06-6357-4400

Jazz • Billboard Live Osaka, Osaka • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥6,500/¥7,500 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

Sep 10-11

ASAKO

Japanese pop singer, songwriter and pianist

Sep 23

Pop • Billboard Live Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥7,500/¥8,500 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

Pop • Janus • TBA • ¥4,000 • TEL: 06-6357-4400

NOGOD Sep 13 Visual-kei rock band 15th anniversary show Rock • Esaka Muse • 6pm • ¥4,500/¥5,000 • TEL: 06-6387-0203

CIDER GIRL Sep 21 Japanese pop-rock band (postponed from April) Pop-rock • Namba Hatch • 6pm • TBA • TEL: 06-6882-1224

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Japanese voice actress and singer Pop • Billboard Live Osaka • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥6,900/¥7,900 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

JOSHUA BREAKSTONE

Jazz • Bonds Rosary • 7:30pm • ¥2,900 • TEL: 075-285-2859

Sep 6

Rock • Club Quattro • 5:30pm • ¥7,150 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

AI FURIHATA Nov 21

US jazz guitarist

COBA

Japanese alternative rock trio

Thrash Metal • Soma • 5pm • ¥5,500 • TEL: 0570-200-888

Sep 4

Rock • Shangri-La • 7pm • ¥4,000/¥4,500 • TEL: 06-6343-8601

Sep 12-13

Japanese thrash metal band

JOSHUA BREAKSTONE TRIO

Japanese punk rock band formed 1982

EINS:VIER

OUTRAGE Nov 8

JAZZ, RNB & CLASSICAL

THE WILLARD

KOHMI HIROSE

Rock • Club Quattro • 5pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888

Japanese pop vocalist

GUITAR PANDA Sep 29-30 Japanese singer-guitarist who dresses as a panda!

KUMI KODA Sep 12 Japanese R&B vocalist Pop • Osaka Jo Hall • 1pm/7pm • ¥9,300 • TEL: 06-6341-3525

CITY OF KYOTO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Sep 20

Rock-indie • Taku Taku • 6:30pm • ¥2,800/¥3,300 • TEL: 075-351-1321

24th Autumn Kyoto Music Festival opening concert

THE BAWDIES

Classical • Kyoto Concert Hall • 1pm/4pm • ¥2,000 • TEL: 075-711-2980

Oct 7

Solo project of Yukihiro, drummer of L'Arc-en-Ciel Rock • Banana Hall • 7pm • ¥5,500 • TEL: 0570-200-888

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

Rock • Club Quattro • 7:30pm • ¥7,200 • TEL: 06-6535-5569

NAOKO TERAI Oct 14 Japanese Jazz violinist Jazz • Billboard Live Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,900/¥7,900 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

SUSHIBOYS Nov 26 Hip-hop • Anima • 7pm • ¥3,500 • TEL: 06-4708-8603

Rock • Namba Hatch • 7pm • ¥4,200 • TEL: 06-6357-4400

ACID ANDROID

Scottish rock and pipes band

Japanese hip-hop dance group

Japanese group sounds rock band (Apr 12 transfer performance)

Oct 17

RED HOT CHILI PIPERS Oct 8

RED HOT CHILI PIPERS

What’s On Clubs & Nightlife

See Kansaifinder.com for more

The “New Normal” for Kansai’s Clubs SAIKO FUJIWARA, KANSAI SCENE CLUBS & NIGHTLIFE EDITOR

The COVID-19 crisis has posed an existential threat to many a business, and Kansai’s clubs and entertainment establishments are no exception. At the time of writing in early August, shortly before this edition of Kansai Scene goes to the presses, venues face a growing dilemma as they attempt to reopen in the midst of what appears to be a second wave of cases in the major cities. Indeed, they have been at the receiving end of some of the sternest warnings issued by government to date. So what is the situation now and how have these businesses been getting by?

Even after Prime Minister Abe announced the lifting of the seven-weeklong State of Emergency on May 25th, most venues erred on the side of caution, holding very few if any events in the month that followed. Some Kansai clubs, such as Circus (www.circus-osaka.com) and Joule (www. club-joule.jp), invited foreign acts to hold livestreaming parties and publicized them via their platforms through June and have since returned to a regular in-house event schedule with local acts. Daphnia (www.club-daphnia. com), which opened last year in Osaka’s Kitakagaya district, collected signatures to petition their landlords for a grace period on their rent and operated as a bar for several months before also resuming their event schedule in later June. Ghost in Amemura (www.

ghostosaka.com) was holding nightly parties before the pandemic and had reopened to patrons around the same time as Daphnia, but has since made the decision to close again temporarily, presumably in response to the spike in new cases in Osaka.

Perhaps they will resort to such measures as crowdfunding to stay afloat, as Club Metro (www.metro.ne.jp) in Kyoto, one of the oldest clubs in Kansai, has done with considerable success: they raised ¥14 million in donations, advance tickets and merchandise.

The government instituted restrictions on outdoor events over the summer.

Circus is currently planning to hold their annual summer Star Festival at Stihl no Mori Kyoto campsite (www. thestarfestival.com) on October 3rd and 4th. Kansai’s biggest EDM party, Music Circus (www.music-circus.jp) is also planning to go ahead on those same dates at Southern Tarui Beach (also known as Rinku Minamihama Beach) in southern Osaka Prefecture. Supersonic (www.supersonic2020.com), due to be

OSAKA

Sep

Sep 12

OSAKA

Full House (Hip Hop)

held at Maishima Sonic Park over three days in September with a line-up brimming with international stars may well be forced to postpone.

Needless to say, the ever-changing situation in which we find ourselves means definitive information about upcoming events in Kansai is sparse, and clubs are rightly being cautious as to the safety of their customers and staff. We will continue to update our listings pages at kansaifinder.com as we know more, though we recommend checking the venues’ Facebook pages for last-minute announcements. If it is within your means, please consider supporting some of your local businesses online, if not in person—every little bit helps!

KYOTO

Oct

Oct 3-4

CIRCUS Sep 5

RAKE?RAKA? Saiko Saibansho (Psychedelic Trance) Ciao, Hiroto, Kazya, Shiva + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • Where: Namba • facebook.com/pages/Rakeraka DJS:

DJS: Yung Eazy, Ryota, Milez, Samo + more • OPEN: 11:30pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • Where: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

KYOTO

Sep 26

STIHL NO MORI KYOTO The Star Festival (Techno/House/ Electronica/Drum’n’Bass/Breaks)

OSAKA

Oct 3-4

TARUI SOUTHERN BEACH Music Circus 2020 (EDM) ACTS: TBA • OPEN: 10am-9pm • ADMISSION: 1 Day Pass: TBA, 2 Day Pass: TBA • Where: Sennan City • TEL: 0570-200-888 • music-circus.jp

ACTS: TBA • OPEN: 8am-5pm • ADMISSION: TBA • Where: Stihl no Mori, Nantan City, Kyoto • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • thestarfestival. com

OCTAVE KYOTO Tone Float (Techno) DJS: Yama, Mitsuyas, Unagi+ more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600 • Where: Kyoto • octavekyoto.space

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Food & Drink OSAKA HAKATARO: HOZENJI RESTAURANT JAPANESE The Hakataro Hozenji Restaurant is a multi-story tour of delectable Japanese and particularly Kyushu delicacies. Each floor presents different seating styles and arrangements to enjoy the seasonal treasures of the sea and renowned Hakata delicacies of deep pot mizutaki (chicken and vegetables boiled in water and served with tasty sauces) and motsunabe (a deep potdish filled with intestines and served with mouthwatering sauces). Hakataro Hozenji is only a minute walk from Nihonbashi and Namba Stations.

1-6-21 Namba, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6213-8088 • hakatarou-houzenji.jp

Osaka SHINSAIBASHI / NAMBA URANAMBA TORAMEYOKOCHO JAPANESE Roam east of Namba Station into Ura-Namba and look for the vermillion torii gate marking the entrance to Torame Yokocho. Here you’ll find a delicious repertoire of Osaka favorites like okonomiyaki and kushikatsu alongside sushi, sashimi, yakiniku, and more all in the same complex.

2-3-15 Sennichimae, Chuo Ward, Osaka

GAKUYA BURGER AMERICAN Yes, another hipster Osaka burger joint, but this one offers exclusively pork patties – an unusual take on an otherwise familiar theme. The interior has a woody, homemade vibe (in true hipster fashion), and the burgers are mouth-wateringly good, with a good range of options.

2-15-13 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka

COMPTOIR 15 Run by owner-chefsommelier Mr. Inoue, this small counter-style bistro offers authentic bistro style French cuisine and wines sourced directly from wineries in France.

Book ahead.

FRENCH

1-29-16 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-4390-0005

ASIAN BAR RAMAI

WAD

PIZZERIA DA TIGRE

When walking into Abiko’s Asian Bar Ramai, you’ll feel like you’ve just stepped through a portal to South East Asia but the cuisine on the menu is distinctly Hokkaido-esque.

Spicy bowls of soupy curry with chunks of seared meat and vegetables with rice on the side await you.

This café and art gallery serves traditional Japanese green tea in beautiful ceramic dishes.

ITALIAN

JAPANESE

7-12-5 Kanda, Sumiyoshi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6657-7196

BOKKAKEYA Rustic noodle shop in Minami-semba serving delicious hand-cut buckwheat soba noodles in a delicate Kansai-style broth.

During the evenings, the menu is expanded to include izakaya fare and a great selection of local sake.

JAPANESE

1F 1-2-13 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6535-2483 • soba-bokkakeya.com

LA GOLOSETTA Authentic Napoli-style pizzeria serving up delicious pizzas and appetizers from its small two-storey location in Minami-semba.

PIZZERIA

2-8-13 Minamisemba, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6264-1225 • lagolosetta.web.fc2. com

TOFU SORANO JAPANESE Enjoy creative tofu dishes and izakaya favorites in this sleek Japanese restaurant featuring a modern, minimalist interior.

4-5-6 Minami-kyuhojimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6120-0644 • foodgate.net/ shop/sorano.html

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

CAFE

4-9-3 Minamisemba, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-4708-3616 • wad-cafe.com

LA FINESTRA

A down-to-earth pizzeria serving up a tasty range of authentic, sensibly priced Napoli-style pizzas. Pizzas are ordered via a ramen shop-style ticket machine. Sit at their u-shaped counter or takeaway.

ITALIAN

Spacious open-plan restaurant offering pasta and other Italian dishes near Orix Theater.

1-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6535-8624

1-33-8 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6606-9016

CHINESE

LA BELLE VIE Authentic yet creative French bistro-style dining and decadent desserts.

FRENCH

2-17-17 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6534-6686

CURRY DEKKAO Sri Lankan-style curries in a cosy, no frills eatery in Minamisemba. Large colorful masks highlight its 2nd floor location.

ETHNIC

3-8-5 Minamisemba, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-4963-3746

OSAKA CHAKAI CAFE Choose your favorite premium rokucha green tea and have it freshly ground for you at this stylish café serving green tea drinks and desserts in Minami-morimachi.

1F 2-1-25 Tenjinbashi, Kita Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6755-4789 • www.osakachakai.jp/ eng

KUUSHIN Choose from daily A or B set lunches or an evening course of creative Chinese cuisine at one of the tastiest Chinese restaurants in Osaka.

1−21−2 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6532-7729

TOKI NO HA Delicious bowls of noodles and freshly steamed dumplings are the main draw at this Chinese tea emporium run by the same owner/chef as Kuushin.

CHINESE

1−21−2 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6532-6001

COCOWELL CAFE Healthy, coconut-laced lunch plates and desserts are the focus of this all-day dining eco-friendly café in Horie.

JAPANESE

1-13-21 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6531-5572

BASE ISLAND KITCHEN This tiny counter-only restaurant serves up an eclectic mix of delicious tapas ranging from vegetarian and vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk Chicken! Open until 5pm daily.

ETHNIC

1-16-27 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka

Food & Drink

See Kansaifinder.com for more TABIJI KITCHEN

HANA SAKE BAR

EL PANCHO

Choose your dish by its country of origin, in this comfortable restaurant that serves up everything from Vietnamese pho to English Shepherd’s Pie, depending on the day of the week.

With friendly Englishspeaking staff on hand to guide you, try a range of local sake and other Japanese spirits at this casual bar in the heart of Shinsaibashi.

MEXICAN

ETHNIC

BARS

Serving up authentic Mexican fare since 1978, El Pancho offers great value combo plates and a happy hour that runs from 11:30am–5pm daily!

1-8-4 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka

Tower Bldg. 8F, 1-10-1 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6241-0588

AN NGON

ALI’S KITCHEN ETHNIC

AMERICAN Run by a friendly Aussie expat and his wife, Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which the patties, buns, and all their sauces are handmade with the freshest ingredients.

An Ngon certainly lives up to its name, meaning “it’s delicious” in Vietnamese. The cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other Vietnamese decorations and boasts an extensive menu.

4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6282-4567

1-6 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6556-6682

CAFE ABSINTHE

UMEDA MAÎTRE RENARD

1-14-20 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6567-8403

CRAFT BURGER

BISTRO NEW ORLEANS AMERICAN Authentic New Orleans-style restaurant, serving up Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location.

1-15-10 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6543-7071

SAUCE BOSS Serving up mouthwatering chicken wings in a huge variety of flavors, with craft beer and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down.

AMERICAN

1-5-13 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-7171-7938

ETHNIC

Stylish Mediterranean restaurant and bar serving craft cocktails, and excellent food, including hummus, falafel and babaganoush.

ETHNIC

1-2-27 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6534-6635

PAPRIKA SHOKUDO Vegetarian/vegan restaurant serving creative meat-free dishes—so flavorsome you could swear you were eating meat sometimes!

JAPANESE

1-9-9 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6599-9788

Halal-certified Pakistani and Arabic cuisine, with over 200 menu items, including their popular goat brain masala and signature biryani dishes.

B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashi-suji, Chuo Ward, Osaka • Tel: 06-4708-5745

JAPANESE Tsurutontan is a tradition of downtown Osaka.

Opened until late businessmen and women often close out their evening with a rich variety of udon noodle dishes served in enormous bowls. The restaurant also serves up many individual dishes well known throughout Japan. Staff are well trained and friendly and connoisseurs of Kita Shinchi often become well known faces of Tsurutontan.

1-1-19 Kitashinchi, Sonezaki, Kita Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-4799-1111 • tsurutontan.co.jp

2-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6125-5740

TENNOJI CASUAL KAPPOU IIDA KAPPOU Enjoy exquisite Japanese cuisine served in multiple courses at this nine-seater casual kappou restaurant. Reservations recommended.

1−1−1 Uehonmachi, Tennoji Ward, Osaka • TEL: 080-2423-4590

LEZZET CRAFTBEER & FOOD EXPERIENCE A craft beer bar with a great tap selection and extensive food menu, including weekly specials and full-plate pasta dinners. No smoking.

CRAFT BEER BARS

Fine French cuisine with an Osaka twist in Dojima, created from organic local ingredients and served in stylish yet unpretentious surroundings.

FRENCH

Hatsune Bldg. 2F, 1-5-4 Dojima, Kita Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6147-633

2-3-21 Matsuzaki-cho, Abeno Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-7850-1412

TIN’S HALL A perennial favorite for many expats, serving good bar food and drinks. Look out for happy hour from 6–9pm where a beer and generously sized burger combo is just ¥1,000. Free live music on Saturday nights.

BARS

BEER BELLY Osaka’s local award-winning brewery, Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in Higobashi. Serving seasonal brews as well as its regular lineup on tap, including its award winning stout and decent bar food.

CRAFT BEER BARS

1-1-30 Tosabori, Nishi Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6441-0717

PIERRE OSAKA TSURUTONTAN KITASHINCHI

wonderful riverside location in Kitahama, overlooking the Central Public Hall.

The InterContinental Osaka’s 20th floor Michelinstarred restaurant features a seasonal fine dining menu in sophisticated surroundings.

FRENCH

3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6374-5700

OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE Australian-themed steakhouse chain, serving up juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood.

AMERICAN

1-6-20 Dojima, Kita Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6457-7121

HARDROCK CAFE International chain offering authentic American favorites – including its famous burgers and smokehouse sandwiches – and live music on the weekends.

AMERICAN

3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6120-5711

BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY (KITAHAMA)

10−3 Minamikawahoricho, Tennoji Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6773-5955

DARUMA No frills, kushikatsu (deep-fried battered meat and vegetables on sticks) dining in front of Tsutenkaku Tower.

Remember the golden rule when reaching for the sauce—no double dipping!

JAPANESE

2-3-9 Ebisucho-higashi, Naniwa Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6645-7056

ZUBORAYA One of Shinsekai’s iconic restaurants. Look for the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair. Whatever form of blowfish you can imagine, Zuboraya has it at an affordable price.

JAPANESE

2-5-5 Ebisu-Higashi, Naniwa Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6633-5529

AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARK Airy two-storey trattoria serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated Tenshiba park area. Good choice for families with children.

ITALIAN

5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji Ward, Osaka • TEL: 06-6773-2225

Great coffee and relaxing decor at this

CAFES AND TEAROOMS

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

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Food & Drink Kyoto KYOTO BEER LAB This comfortable brewpub, run by Kyoto-based ChaBeer Brewing Company, is both a brewery churning out rare craft beers and a bar serving freshly-brewed beers available only here. The “chabeer” (tea beer) in particular is a fantastic beer infused with the aroma of Wazuka tea leaves, known as the espresso of tea in Uji, Kyoto Prefecture.

CRAFT BEER BARS

201-3 Juzenjicho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-352-6666 • kyotobeerlab. jp/#oliginal

HONKE OWARIYA Located in an atmospheric old wooden building, Honke Owariya is one of Kyoto’s oldest and best soba restaurants.

Down the street from the Imperial Palace, you’ll find this over 500-year-old two-story restaurant, which looks a lot like a traditional Japanese house, doubling as a confectionary and noodle shop.

JAPANESE

322 Niomontsukinukecho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto

TEPPANYAKI GOZANBO This exquisite teppan steak restaurant lies on the fifteenth floor of the Kyoto Granvia hotel. The restaurant features a presentation of excellent slices of beef. Enjoy excellent panorama views of Kyoto in a smoke free environment and the calm quiet affordable in a child free restaurant.

JAPANESE

JR Kyoto Station, Karasuma Chuo-guchi, Shiokoji-sagaru, Karasuma-dori, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-342-5521

IN THE MOON Low-key music, tasteful lighting, and reasonable prices make this rooftop haven the ultimate location for an evening cocktail.

ROOFTOP BAR

200 RF Kamogawa Bldg, Nakanocho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-708-6966

GOMACRO SALON VEGAN Gomacro is paradise for sesame fans. Everything on the menu—including drinks and desserts—is sesame-based. As well as being vegan, the focus is on healthy and seasonal food.

SPICE CHAMBER Counter-style curry restaurant serving up fiery Indian-style curries, accompanied with homemade pickles.

ETHNIC

Fukui Bldg. 1F, 502 Hakurakuten-cho, Muromachi-dori, Ayanokoji-sagaru, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-342-3813 • spicechamber.com

ROCK BAR ING BAR A stalwart of the Kiyamachi bar scene since 1998, this small but cosy rock’n’roll bar promises good times, cheap beer and great music.

288-201 Minami Kuruyamacho, Nishi Kiyamachidori Takoyakushi-Agaru, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-255-5087

BEER KOMACHI A small izakayastyle dining bar with seven taps of Japanese craft beer and a good sake menu to boot. Serves excellent food.

CRAFT BEER BARS

444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-746-6152

MILTON’S KYOTO Cosy hole-in-the-wall 8-seater bar run by Englishspeaking local artist, Milton. A huge choice of liquors to choose from, including a good range of rums and whiskies. Non smoking.

BARS

2F 246 Yamazakicho Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto

UMENOHANA KARASUMA Tofu in all its forms and variations, coupled with seasonal vegetables and presented in a stunning fine dining setting.

English menu available.

JAPANESE

West 18 Bldg. B1F, Karasuma-Rokkaku, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-254-0566

KATSUKURA SANJO Grind your own sesame seeds at this stylish chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants. Great value set meals including all-you-can-eat rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the original store.

JAPANESE

16 Ishibashicho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-212-3581

KUSHIKURA Charcoal grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables dishes served in a beautiful 100-year-old traditional kyo-machiya house.

JAPANESE

584 Hiiragi-cho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-213-2211

67-3 Shinmeicho, Nakagyo ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-257-5096

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

Hyogo

1-8-8 Kitanagasadori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-391-0545

YIDAKI CAFE

BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES

Organic vegan fare anywhere in Japan is a rarity, but head to this cosy second floor eatery in Motomachi and enjoy a delicious plant-based lunch plate or coconut curry. Their falafel pita bread sandwich also hits all the right notes. Just around the corner from the BAL building.

2-7-4 Sakaemachidori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-392-8585

BAKERY RIKI VEGAN

2F 3-3-6 Sannomiya-cho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-335-0520

MODERNARK PHARM CAFE A healthy lunch haven just 10 minutes’ walk from Sannomiya Station, this charming wood-furnished eatery serves up wholesome lunch sets like vegetarian curry rice, green salads with brown rice (genmai), and vegetable wraps for around ¥1,000. Great care is taken here to use organic, healthy, and local ingredients.

VEGETARIAN

Tiny bakery in Motomachi drawing crowds with its impressive range of freshly baked breads and sweet treats. Get there early.

SONA RUPA Upscale authentic Indian dining with a warm spacious atmosphere, popular with Kobe expats.

INDIAN

2-2-9 Yamate-dori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-0252

HONG KONG SWEETS CAFE TIM MA MA Delightfully retro interior and authentic Hong Kong-style Chinese tea and desserts, served at tables labelled as Hong Kong metro stations.

CHINESE

3-1-16 Sannomiyacho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-3530 • tim-ma-ma.com

3-11-15 Kitanagasadori, Chuo Ward, Kobe

BOND

DAIZUYA

ITALIAN

VEGETARIAN The variety of Daizuya’s soy-based offerings— including firm and soft tofu, regional varieties, and even tofu skin with avocado—is matched only by the range of condiment options. If you’re not fond of bean curd, see the à la carte menu for alternatives, such as grilled chicken, or shrimp and avocado salad.

Eagle Bldg B1F, 4−7−20 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 050-5285-7538

CAFE AGEHA A perfect pit stop after a morning exploring the Kitano area, Ageha serves healthy brown rice lunch sets and tempting fruit tarts from its spacious location near the top of Tor Road.

JAPANESE

2-4-8 Nakayamate-dori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-321-2780

UNDERGROUND BAKERY Scones, brownies, Victoria sponge cakes—this little bakery is a homage to British baking, but sells out fast.

BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES

5-1-1 Sakaemachidori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • ugbakery.com

BAAN THAI Popular Thai restaurant tucked away near Ikuta-jinja shrine, that offers spicy Thai favorites in cosy surroundings.

THAI

A spacious, sleek open plan interior serving up quality pasta dishes and trattoria-style mains just in front of the Mosque in Kobe’s Kitano area. Their chocolate tart with mountainsansho is a real treat.

3-3-5 Yamate-dori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-252-0052

INDUSRAY Authentic southern-Indian home-cooked food, served from this small, cosy family-run restaurant in Motomachi. The lamb or chicken biryani comes highly recommended.

ETHNIC

3-11-10 Motomachi-dori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-332-1660

TRITON CAFE Popular, stylish open-plan café on Kitano-zaka, serving up food all day, including bistro-style lunch plates and homemade desserts.

CAFES & TEAROOMS

1-23-16 Nakayamatedori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-251-1886

Need more dining options?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

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Info

Welcome To Kansai Getting Around

Taxis

The Kansai area covers the prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. There is so much to explore, so you’ll need to prioritize your time wisely. Its main travel hubs are Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed rail networks, including the shinkansen (bullet train).

Fares start from ¥500. The drivers wearing white gloves and official hats tend to be the most courteous, but don’t expect English to be widely understood.

Have your destination name and address on hand in Japanese. As of February 2019, taxis can now be ordered using the Uber app.

On regular trains, you can travel between Osaka and Kyoto in about 45 mins, and between Kobe and Osaka in about 30 mins. If you are here on holiday, pick up a convenient travel pass, such as the Kansai Thu Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai One Pass (kansaionepass.com), to avoid having to negotiate the ticket machines. Use a website such as HyperDia (hyperdia.com) to check train times and platforms from your smartphone.

To/from downtown Osaka, the most convenient option is the Nankai Rapi:t Express service (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, take the JR Airport Express HARUKA service (75 mins).

Trains and Subways There is an excellent rail network connecting all corners of Kansai.

As well as JR (Japan Rail), there are numerous private railway companies servicing the area, including Keihan (Osaka/Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/ Nagoya). Each line operates several types of train. For the fastest trains, look for the Limited Express service trains. Be aware that Local trains stop at every station on the line, so only take them if no other type of train stops at your station. Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto and are an extremely efficient way to get around the cities.

Tip: Pick up a Railway Network map from a major station or Tourist Information Center.

Buses For out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.

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Airport Transfers

ATMs and Credit Cards If you’re using Visa, you will be able to withdraw cash at most bank or convenience-store ATMs. If you’re using Mastercard, your best bet for withdrawing money is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other ATMs in Kansai do not accept Mastercard. It is not common to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards in Japan, even for expensive purchases. Many shops and restaurants do not offer this service, so be sure to carry plenty of cash with you.

Wi-Fi Getting connected in Kansai can be tricky. Renting a smartphone or SIM card at the airport is the safest option, to connect to the internet over a 3G or 4G network.

The cities of Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto have Free Wi-Fi networks that can usually be found at bus stops, train and subway stations.

Osaka’s service is prefecture-wide.

Accidents and Emergencies Ambulance/Fire service: Tel. 119 Police: Tel. 110

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2020 | kansaiscene.com

GET KANSAI SCENE Kansai Scene is available from the following major outlets in the Kansai region:

KYOTO

Hotels and Guesthouses

OSAKA

Royal Hotel, Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Nikko Hotel

Hotels and Guesthouses

Tourist Information Centers

Conrad Osaka, Hyatt Regency, Nikko Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Ritz Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka, InterContinental Hotel Osaka

Kyoto Tourist Information Center, Kansai Tourist Information Center Kyoto, Kyoto International Community House

Tourist Information Centers Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Osaka), Hankyu Tourist Center Umeda, Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Namba), Kansai Tourist Information Center (KIX), Kansai Tourist Information Center (Shinsaibashi), Nankai Information Center (Namba) Shops Kinokuniya Bookstore Umeda, Kinokuniya Honmachi, Tower Records Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe

Shops Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, GEAR KOBE

Hotels and Guesthouses Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe Portopia Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kobe International Community Center, Hyogo International Plaza Shops Junkudo Nishinomiya, Junkudo Sannomiya, Kinokuniya Kobe

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