WINTER
DEC–FEB 2019/20 No. 224
Free
WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE
Winter Blazing fire festivals, Christmas lights, and snowy vistas
Plus
Inside… Explore
A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND IN SHIGA
Travel
SNOWSHOE HIKING IN NAGANO
Discover
SACRED SITES ON THE KII PENINSULA
Culture
TALES FROM THE FIRST WESTERN KODANSHI
WHAT’S ON EAT & DRINK SIGHTSEEING MAPS
Discover Hiroshima’s Scenic Beauty in Akiota-cho
YOICHI SHIDAREZAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOM A stunning 12m tall weeping cherry sitting atop a small hillock is lit up during its brief, but spectacular spring bloom OSORAKAN SNOW PARK
Breathtaking views, fabulous hiking, exciting snow sports and relaxing hot spring accommodation await
Japan’s southernmost ski resort, offering long runs for all levels of skiers and snowboarders, as well as snow trekking and igloo building
SANDANKYO GORGE A stunning 13km river gorge, awarded 3 stars by the French travel guide Blue Guide and selected as one of the top 100 scenic beauty spots in Japan
INI TANADA Picture-perfect terraced paddy fields, offering stunning photo opportunities year-round
Nukui Springs Hotel Offers traditional outdoor hot spring baths overlooking Lake Ryuki in Hiroshima’s Akiota-cho. Relax in comfortable western style or Japanese tatami mat rooms and enjoy our award-winning French dining.
Akiota-cho
Okayama
Himeji
Kyoto Osaka Kobe
Hiroshima
Address: 4692-7, Kake, Akiotacho, Yamgatagun, Hiroshima 731-3501, Japan Tel: +81 (0)826-22-1200 Access: 1 hour by car from Hiroshima IC
RESERVATIONS
www.nukui-sp.com
CONTENTS
Winter
06
Dec/Jan /Feb
22
KANSAI FINDER
24
Features
Events & Festivals
28
06
14
Winter Illuminations
A Perfect Long Weekend in Shiga
30
Loop around Lake Biwa for a Shiga winter adventure.
Art & Exhibitions
18
32
Sights & Attractions Where to go for Kansai’s alluring night spectacles.
08 Snowshoe Hiking RANDY POEHLMAN Unlock winter landscapes on a pair of snowshoes.
Adventures on the Kii Peninsula ALENA ECKELMANN
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Soothing hot springs, nature walks, and ancient festivals.
Christmas in Kansai
22
BROOKE LARSEN How to celebrate the festive season away from home.
A foreign twist on traditional tales JJ O’DONOGHUE
Live Music
34 Clubs & Nightlife
36 Food & Drink
40 Getting Around / Maps
The first Western kodan storyteller recites historical tales of Japan.
What’s On Guide
ON THE COVER: ONI HASHIRI AT NENBUTSU TEMPLE IN GOJO CITY NARA, GOJO CITY TOURISM THIS PAGE: KUMANO KODO TRAIL, TANABE TOURISM BUREAU; NANSHUN KYOKUDOU, KODANSHA; OSAKA HIKARI RENAISSANCE, FESTIVAL OF THE LIGHTS IN OSAKA EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE
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AND MUCH MORE… CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
ABOUT KANSAI SCENE KANSAI SCENE PROVIDES ENGLISHLANGUAGE ARTICLES, INFORMATION AND LISTINGS FOR VISITORS AND RESIDENTS OF THE KANSAI AREA. KANSAI SCENE IS PUBLISHED BY CB, LTD. WITH SUPPORT FROM MOJOWORKS KK Publisher.....................................CB, Ltd Managing Editor.......Celia Polkinghorne Editor................................. Jason Haidar Art Director............................Daniel Lee Production........................Mojoworks KK Listings Contributors Art.................................... Brooke Larsen Events..................................Tomoko Ishii Live Music....................... Phillip Jackson Club.................................. Saiko Fujiwara CONTACT KS General ....... mailbox@kansaiscene.com Editorial.......... editor@kansaiscene.com Advertising...... sales@kansaiscene.com
A
s we gear up for yearend and New Year festivities, the time has come to pull on the thermals, knits, gloves, and coats and brave the chill to make the most of what Kansai winter has on offer. Illuminations light up iconic spots around the region (p 06) like Nara Park, Osaka Castle, and Arashiyama’s Togetsukyo Bridge, among others. The snowfields of Shiga open up for skiers and snowboarders to make the most of Kansai’s spectacular winter landscapes (p 14). And the steamy rejuvenating onsens of the Kii Peninsula welcome weary winter hikers (p 18). Further afield, snowshoe hiking is an ideal way
to explore the winter sports haven of Nagano (p 08). Flaming rituals rage throughout the region, like Shingu’s Oto Matsuri and Shiga’s Katsube Fire Festival (p 07). Or, if you’d rather stay indoors and treat yourself to a spot of culture, buy a ticket for the International Folk Tale Yose at Aijitsu Kaikan where a Western kodan storyteller recites traditional tales of Japan (p 22). Stay up-to-date throughout the season with a full list of events and festivals on the Kansai Finder page of our website, and for weekly lists of what’s happening around the region, sign up for our e-newsletters at kansaiscene.com. From the team at KS, we wish you a happy festive season and a promising start to 2020.
TOKYO OFFICE........................................ 4F Kasumigaseki Tokyu Bldg, 3-7-1 Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0013 Tel. .....................................03-6260-9125 Fax......................................03-6205-8447
CELIA POLKINGHORNE editor@ kansaiscene.com
WINTER ILLUMINATIONS KYOTO ARASHIYAMA HANATOURO FROM DEC 13–22 IN SAGA & ARASHIYAMA
PHOTO: KYOTO HANATOURO PROMOTION COUNCIL
KANSAI OFFICE....................................... 3F Kishinosato Bldg, 13-15 Shinnozukacho, Ashiya, Hyogo 659-0016 Tel......................................0797-25-9322 Fax.....................................0797-25-9321 Website........................kansaiscene.com WRITE FOR KANSAI SCENE If you would like to write for KS, please contact editor@kansaiscene.com after reviewing our writers’ guidelines: kansaiscene.com/write-for-us DISCLAIMER Opinions expressed herein are not necessarily endorsed by the publisher. We take no responsibility for the quality or content of advertisements. Public and private parties approached by those claiming to work for or on behalf of Kansai Scene should call this office to confirm the truth of any such claim, especially where money may be involved.
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DISCOVER
Kansai Winter Illuminations Rug up and head out for a romantic winter night to see Kansai twinkling in all its LED glory. TEXT: KS OSAKA
OSAKA HIKARI RENAISSANCE Dec 14–25, Nakanoshima Island Throughout December, Nakanoshima Park and Midosuji Boulevard twinkle with over 1.5 million lights during Osaka Hikari Renaissance, a part of the Osaka Festival of Lights. One main attraction is the projection mapping light show on the facade of Osaka City Central Public Hall. TIME: 5pm–10pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Naniwabashi Stn • hikari-kyoen.com/renaissance
OSAKA
OSAKA CASTLE ILLUMINAGE Nov 22–Mar 1, Osaka Castle Park Take in spectacular views from Nishinomaru garden of Osaka Castle splashed with an array of colors and special effects during the 3D projection-mapping extravaganza that is the Osaka Castle Illuminage. TIME: 5pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 adults • ACCESS: Tanimachi Subway line, Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn • illuminagegroup.com/ osakacastleilluminage2019-english
OSAKA
TIME: Sunset–9pm (Last entry at 8:30pm) • ADMISSION: Free (¥260 park entry) • Osaka Monorail, Banpaku Kinen-koen Stn • expo70-park.jp/languages/english
OSAKA
IBARAKI BAMBOO ILLUMINATION Dec 7, Soji Temple Using local bamboo from Ibaraki city, thousands of lanterns made from bamboo shoots will 6
be hung at Soji Temple with accompanying live music and local foods. TIME: 4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS:
Hankyu Line, Souji-ji Stn; JR Line, Souji-ji Stn • ibarakitaketourou.com KYOTO
KYOTO ARASHIYAMA HANATOURO Dec 13–22, Saga & Arashiyama Explore the dimly lit paths in Saga and Arashiyama. Togetsukyo Bridge will be illuminated, diffusing light onto the backdrop of autumncolored mountains. Visitors can stroll through the scenic bamboo forest walkway between Nonomiya Shrine to Okouchi Sanso Villa. The main walkways
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
will feature carefully crafted ikebana flower arrangements.
TIME: 6pm–9pm • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Nara Stn • ADMISSION: Free • rurie.jp/en
TIME: 5pm–8:30pm • Free • ACCESS: Hankyu line, Arashiyama Stn • hanatouro.jp/e/ arashiyama/index.html
HYOGO
NARA
NARA RURIE (BLUE ILLUMINATION) Feb 8–14, Nara Park & surroundings Nara will be illuminated in a beautiful blue hue as part of its annual winter tradition. The lights scattered across Nara Park are the enchanting blue color of ruri (lapis lazuli stone). Neighboring venues such as Kasuga Shrine, Kofukuji, and Todai-ji will open at night for visitors to enjoy the light displays.
KOBE LUMINARIE Dec 6–15, The Former Foreign Settlement & Surroundings Stroll through this Italian-style illumination in the heart of Kobe. The main spectacle is Nakamachi street where visitors can walk through a 50-meter arcade of lights. A ¥100 donation is welcomed. TIME: 6pm–9:30pm Mon to Thu; 6pm–10pm Fri ; 5pm–10pm Sat ; 5pm–9:30pm Sun • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR/Hanshin Line, Motomachi Stn • kobe-luminarie.jp
PHOTO: KOBE LUMINARIE, TIM WILKINSON
ILLUMINIGHT EXPO Dec 6–8, 13–15, 20–22, 24–29 Expo ‘70 Commemorative Park 3D projection-mapping changes the face of this famous symbol, Tower of the Sun. Cuttingedge images and music are put together to make an unforgettable show.
WHAT’S ON
FLAMES ROAR AS SERPENT REVENGE REVERED
Shiga locals burn giant torches in New Year’s good-health bid. TEXT: KS
PHOTO: BIWAKO VISITORS BUREAU
H
eld on the second Saturday of January every year, the spectacular Katsube Fire Festival originates from around the year 1200 when Emperor Tsuchimikado (who reigned from 1198–1210) fell ill and fortune-tellers traced the cause of the disease to a giant serpent. The hero in this legend, Fujiwara no Hidesato, pursued the creature and slew it with a bow and arrow on Mount Mikami, after which the emperor made a speedy recovery and a huge celebration was held in the form of a fire ceremony that has been performed every year since in a bid for good health for all. Young men between the ages of 17 and 34 wear red or white loincloths and carry a wooden scaffold holding a large drum. They chant loudly and shake the scaffold at street intersections, outside people’s homes, and at the local JR Moriyama train station. One of the men stands atop the scaffolding trying to maintain his balance as the scaffold sways. As the men prepare for the fire, they bang the drums loudly and receive blessings from
the priests while waiting for three honorary fire-starters to be named. Those three then carry small torches that are lit inside the shrine for the purpose of igniting the giant torches, which are six meters long each weighing 250 kg. Around 12 of these massive torches are lit during the ceremony. Constructed of dry brush, twigs, and bamboo, they are bound with rope and propped up on an X-shaped timber bipod. The elongated bundle is said to resemble the scaly hide of the disease-causing serpent from the origin story. The bushy stalks of oily rapeseed provide excellent kindling for the bonfire and fuel an intense towering blaze for a short span of about five minutes. As the torches burn, the young men dance about wildly shouting and chanting. When the flames die down and the rapeseed stalks are burnt out, the torches are dragged out from the shrine to be extinguished in the large open canals that run along the nearby streets.
Jan 11 SHIGA
Katsube Fire Festival 勝部の火まつり
Katsube Shrine & Sumiyoshi Shrine Time: 8pm • Admission: Free • Access: JR Biwako Line, Moriyama Stn, 10-min walk • biwako-visitors. jp/event/detail/733
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FEATURE
SHUFFLE THROUGH
Powder Heaven Traverse Japan’s winter landscapes on a pair of snowshoes. TEXT: RANDY POEHLMAN
W
intry Japan is world-famous for its snowcapped mountains and reliable powdery snowfalls. One of the best ways to make the most of the sleek white winter landscapes is with the increasingly popular activity of snowshoe hiking. Snowshoe hiking, or snowshoeing, is relatively easy and is suitable for healthy people of all ages and ability levels who want to explore Japan’s prime ski and snowboard destinations. It isn’t as adrenaline-focused or skillsintensive as snowboarding, nor is it as strenuous and as a day of cross-country skiing. Like regular hiking, it is about freely exploring at a pace that suits the individual and gaining access to scenery that is only brought to life in the winter.
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Nagano Nagano Prefecture is well-known as one of Japan’s top skiing and snowboarding destinations. Hosting the 1998 Winter Olympics elevated the international reputation of this winter sports haven. With a well-developed winter tourism sector, there is a good range of hotel and restaurant options in the charming towns that surround the various ski hills. There are endless snowshoeing options in this area if you are experienced with your own snowshoes and safety gear. There are also several exciting options for snowboarders wanting to combine snowshoe hiking and snowboarding. If you are a beginner in backcountry winter snow touring, then an organized guided tour would be a good idea initially.
PHOTOS: ISTOCK.COM/KARAGRUBIS; SHIGA KOGEN, FLICKR.COM/ARVINDTHAMPI
The Shiga Kogen ski area is perhaps the most popular destination for those looking for an unforgettable snow holiday in Nagano. There are various organized tours provided by companies such as Shiga Kogen Guide, the Shiga Kogen Nature Conservation Center, and Nagano Ventures, to name a few. The Shiga Kogen Nature Conservation Center website lists various snowshoe trail and tour options and offers tours from January 11th to March 29th with peak season being in February. Their tours are priced from ¥4,000 to ¥8,000 per person for a one-day tour. They also offer private guides at reasonable rates. If you have a bit more confidence and want to venture out on your own, many ski resorts and hotels will rent snowshoes to guests. Mt. Yakebitai is an excellent place to find your own trails and snowshoe options. Nagano’s Norikura Highlands also offers an excellent snowshoe trail system that even includes frozen waterfalls. A popular destination for avid trekkers is the Zengoro Falls. Little Peaks snow equipment rental shop located near the Norikura Visitor Center rents snowshoes and poles to visitors for a few thousand yen. The visitor center is an excellent place to find trekking maps and local food and hotel information. Little Peaks also leads guided snowshoe tours with lunch and equipment included. Guesthouse Raicho is well set up for all your snowshoe adventure needs. Conveniently located about 30 minutes from the Zengoro waterfalls, guesthouse staff will also lead guided night visits to the falls. For backcountry ski and snowshoe/ snowboard touring, a good jumping-off point for experienced visitors is the backcountry gate at Happo-One ski resort in the Hakuba ski area. You can test your avalanche safety beacon there and also meet experienced locals who can give you more inside information. There are avalanche risks here, so a proper safety kit is essential—probes, beacons, shovels, and inflatable avalanche bags are highly encouraged. Skins for your skis or snowshoes for backcountry borders will assist you in the initial climb and places you’d otherwise have to hike.
If Nagano is on your winter itinerary, you would be well served to enjoy the local hot spring culture and soak up the splendid snow and wintery scenes from the comforts of a soothing bath. The highlight is the Jigokudani Onsen, home to the world-famous bathing snow monkeys. If you’re adventurous, there is a way to bathe in an onsen with these monkeys running about, and occasionally climbing into the bath with you. About 250 meters away from the main bath (the monkeys-only touristy photo spot), there is also a private guesthouse and bath that allows onsen access for a few hundred yen per person, and around ¥12,000 for a night’s accommodation. Periodically, some of the monkeys will even climb in these baths with visitors.
of wide-open views, so route-finding will not be a challenge on clear days. Expect winter temperatures to average about -5°C to -10°C on Mt. Ibuki in January and February. The most popular climbing route is from a trailhead at Ibuki-Tozanguchi bus stop which is accessible from Omi-Nagoaka Station located on the Tokaido main train line. KS
Kansai If you’re sticking around the Kansai region for winter, there are also some great snowshoeing options available here. Two of the best are in Shiga and Hyogo prefectures. The mountains between Kyoto and Lake Biwa are known as the Hira mountains and they offer some of the best snowshoe touring available in Kansai. Tour companies you can book with include Friendship Adventures in Shiga, who offer half-day, full-day, and family tours, and the Kannabe Nature School in Hyogo. Hyogo tours are expected to start December 20th and run through March 20th and reservations can be made online. Kannabe has various winter snow activities, which families and groups can enjoy. In addition to snowshoe touring, there are well-established ski and snowboard runs and children’s snow parks as well as restaurants and hotels. The Kannabe ski and snow area is just 45 minutes away from the village of Kinosaki Onsen, where guests can enjoy the seven public baths. For the more experienced Kansai snowshoers, two great Shiga options include Mt. Bunagatake in Otsu, featuring a well-established 13 km trail, and Mt. Ibuki at the north of Lake Biwa. Shiga’s biggest mountain, Ibuki has the benefit
SHIGA KOGEN IN NAGANO
Safety Snowshoeing, like other winter mountain sports, has its risks. If you are not yet experienced with the activity, use a guide service to ensure your safety. If you are experienced enough to adventure on your own, consider that Japanese mountain signage is often in Japanese only, so be sure to carry your own navigation equipment (either a map and compass or GPS devices). Also, be sure to carry enough warm clothing to keep you comfortable in sub-zero temperatures. Bring plenty of food, water, and safety gear, including winter safety blankets, a whistle, and a fire source. Wind, snow cover, temperature, and alternative routes should be checked and planned for in advance.
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
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FEATURE
HOW TO CELEBRATE
Christmas IN KANSAI
While home-cooked turkey and pudding might be off the table, a Christmas in Japan can be full of surprises. TEXT: BROOKE LARSEN
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C
hristmas in Japan is, more than anything else, a gigantic campaign promoting consumerism. That is to say, it’s a lot like Christmas everywhere else. Yet, because there’s no legendary backstory or religious tradition behind the event, Japanese Christmas can feel lackluster to non-Japanese who grew up with stories of Jesus, Santa Claus, and Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. Then there are those used to celebrating other wintertime customs like Hanukkah,
SIP MULLED WINE AT UMEDA’S CHRISTMAS MARKET If you’re nostalgic for a traditional Christmas atmosphere, look no further than Osaka’s annual German Christmas Market, which lights up the grounds outside the Umeda Sky Building. Centered around a giant Christmas tree, rows of traditional German-style huts serve up sausages, beer, pretzels, hot chocolate, and mulled wine. There are even small rides and a nativity scene. The event runs through to December 25th.
PHOTOS: MAIN - ISTOCK.COM/LUMIKK555; GERMAN CHRISTMAS MARKET;
BUY A JAPANESE CHRISTMAS CAKE Even if you’re on a budget or want to keep things low-key, there are options. Buying Christmas cake at a Japanese convenience store is a tradition that both locals and foreigners love to get behind. Traditional Christmas cake in Japan comes in the form of light and spongy strawberry shortcake slathered with cream, and these are cheap, delicious, and are often covered with festive decorations. If you’re looking for something a little fancier, check out a depachika (a department stores’ basementlevel food court) for decadent cakes you won’t want to share.
Kwanzaa, or Yule—holidays that aren’t represented in Japan at all. If you’re visiting or living in Japan during the holiday season, things can feel a little odd because of how differently Christmas is treated. In Japan, Christmas morning isn’t a concept and Christmas evening is for taking your significant other out. That’s right, Christmas is actually the biggest date night of the year, even surpassing Valentine’s Day! Most workers don’t have a day off for Christmas, and nothing
EAT FRIED CHICKEN AT KFC Yes, you read that right. Know what’s even bigger in Japan than going out on a date Christmas Eve? Eating a big bucket of KFC fried chicken. “Kentucky for Christmas” has been a thing in Japan since 1974, and has grown so popular that the fastfood chain takes Christmas pre-orders all month long (elaborate sets come with wine and shortcake!). If you’re missing your mom’s homecooked Christmas dinner, fried chicken might be the next best thing. However, be prepared to line up!
GAWK AT ELABORATE DEPARTMENT STORE DISPLAYS AND JUMP ON SEASONAL SALES Every winter, Japanese department stores go all out with the decorations. The best ones tend to be in Osaka and Kyoto Stations. The flagship Hankyu Department Store in Umeda is particularly festive. Christmas and New Year in Japan is also sale time. Most stores, big and small, will have some kind of winter or Christmas-themed promotion going on through the month of December. Then the big, exciting sales start on the first day the department stores reopen in the New Year—either January 1st or 2nd. This is when you have the chance to buy a fukubukuro—lucky bags filled with items from a particular brand or shop, which are priced far less than their value. It’s like a lucky dip as you can’t see what’s inside until after you’ve bought it. While you don’t always know exactly what you’re getting, it is always a bargain.
that screams “holiday cheer” less than people spending Christmas day slaving away at a desk. This isn’t all to say Christmas in Japan can’t be a joyous celebration of giftgiving and camaraderie! It just means you’ll have to work a little harder to feel the festive spirit you’re used to. Instead of feeling homesick this holiday season, here’s how to do Christmas right in Kansai.
TEAM UP WITH TRAVEL BUDDIES TO PLAN A GIFT EXCHANGE If you’re traveling in a group or staying in a hostel, grab a few fellow travelers who also find themselves in Japan at Christmas and plan a gift exchange. Secret Santa, where members are randomly assigned a person to give a gift to, is a fun and easy option. Or there’s White Elephant (aka “Dirty Santa”), a game in which everyone purchases a small gift, wraps it, puts it in a pile, and takes turns blindly selecting one. The game is “dirty” because players have the option of choosing a new gift from the pile or stealing someone else’s. Great places to shop for gifts are variety goods stores like Tokyu Hands and Loft. With a range of items and price points, you can’t go wrong.
SEE A LIGHT DISPLAY Illuminations are the most festive thing about Japanese winter. These resplendent displays light up the city streets for weeks or even months on end and often include light shows and projection mapping. The best in Kansai is the short-lived (and extremely crowded) Kobe Luminarie from December 6 to the 15. Other excellent Illuminations include Festival of the Lights in Osaka, located primarily in and around Nakanoshima Park, Osaka Castle Illuminage, and ROHM Illumination in Kyoto.
GRAB A GLASS OF MULLED WINE AT OSAKA’S ANNUAL GERMAN CHRISTMAS MARKET
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WHAT’S ON
Rice Planting Gets Hot and Heavy While the task of rice planting may not initially strike one as a sexy endeavor, we can count on the Japanese for a quirky take on a seemingly ordinary deed. TEXT: KS
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This part of the festival is very graphic with various sexual positions enacted as well as plenty of spanking. A third person who is a masked priest gives them a helping hand in getting the job done! Niimasu Shrine is associated with fertility, so many couples also visit to pray for safe childbirth and healthy children. The shrine is known for its many rocks naturally formed in the likeness of male and female genitalia. The festival has grown popular over the years and attracts many people to this shrine, which has been in the same family for over 27 generations—more than one thousand years.
Feb 2 NARA
Onda Matsuri おんだ祭り
Asukaniimasu Shrine TIME: 2pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Kashiharajingu-mae Stn, bus to Asukadaibutsu-mae • asukamura. com/?p=11548
PHOTO: ASUKANIIMASU SHRINE
C
urious spectators flock to Asuka’s Niimasu Shrine on the first Sunday of February every year for its Onda Festival. Onda Matsuri is famously known as the “sexy rice-planting festival” because the day marks the “first sun”—indicating the arrival of spring, and of course, fertility and harvest go hand-in-hand. On this day, people worship the gods so that they will be blessed with a good rice harvest. The ceremony starts with a prayer offering to the Shinto deities for a bountiful harvest, which is followed by “marriage play” between a tengu (goblin) and a human woman. Two male actors—one dressed as a tengu and the other as a woman—pretend to be a married couple copulating in what is revealed to be a vivid and hilarious sex scene.
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
SERIOUS ABOUT TOBACCO A mecca for the discerning tobacco connoisseur, Osaka’s Sirius Tobacco stocks the largest range of tobacco products in Japan. TEXT: KS
PHOTOS: SIRIUS TOBACCO
T
he tobacco plant has been rolled, dried, smoked, and chewed for centuries since its discovery by Columbus some 600 years ago. It’s a controversial pastime, but love it or loathe it, the fact remains it is big business, especially here in Japan. If you’re a habitual smoker, then you are in the right place. The ubiquitous convenience stores, cigarette vending machines, and network of tiny hole-in-the-wall tobacco shops (a throwback from when the tobacco industry was state-operated) ensure that local big-name brands are readily available and at prices usually much lower than those in Western countries. But if you are one of a breed of self-professed ‘hobby smokers,’ or a connoisseur who likes to roll your own, you may be left scratching your head as to where to gather your favorite supplies. Enter Hori-san, owner of ‘tobacco department store’ Sirius Tobacco. Located at the end of a slightly tired shopping arcade in the suburbs of Osaka, the entrance features the familiar hole-in-the-wall booth on one side where customers can purchase cigarettes from a little hatch, but venture inside and discover a shop floor dedicated to every conceivable tobacco product available. From pipes and rolling tobacco to fancy cigars and lighters, Hori-san stocks it all. Aside from some 700 different types of cigarettes, there are traditional Japanese kiseru pipes, lacquerware trays, and implements that wouldn’t look out of place in a Japanese tea ceremony. An entire wall is dedicated to colorful packets of blended tobacco in a mind-boggling array of flavors, such as mango, mint, and even chocolate. A set of drawers reveals rows of artisan briar pipes from Europe. Shelves teem with lighters, rolling papers, nicotine pouches, filters, snuff, and ashtrays. A humidity-controlled room at the back of the store houses an extensive selection of premium cigars. Hori-san realized that with such a plethora of tobacco stores across the land, he had to do something to stand out. He travels to Germany every year to attend the annual InterTabac tobacco goods trade fair to source interesting pipes and other items, keeping his finger on the pulse of the latest tobacco trends. By offering a huge variety of goods, he believes he is future-proofing his business for when he predicts traditional cigarette sales will eventually wane. He has also embraced e-commerce, selling his products online to customers all across Japan. Currently, his website is in Japanese only and is not set up to ship internationally, but he has plans to change that. When international customers drop by, he uses a neat pocket translator device to communicate, but his enthusiasm for tobacco and ingratiating demeanor helps smooth over anything potentially lost in translation. Sirius Tobacco is one of the brightest flames in the business.
Sirius Tobacco 561-0832 Toyonaka-shi, Shonai Nishimachi 2-28-12 Access: Hankyu Shonai Stn (four stops from Osaka/Umeda Stn)
www.tabako.co.jp
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
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EXPLORE
A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND in Shiga
Make the most of a Shiga winter with a loop around Lake Biwa discovering snow fields, castles, museums, and tasty local cuisines along the way.
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PHOTO: HIKONE CASTLE, FLICKR/CHRISCHRISTENSEN; LAKE BIWA, ISTOCK.COM/NATUREPHOTOGRAPH; FUNAZUSHI, FLICKR.COM/TOYOHARA; ENRYAKU-JI TEMPLE, ISTOCK.COM/ZIGGY_MARS
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enowned as the home of Japan’s largest freshwater lake, Shiga is also the best of the Kansai prefectures for skiing and snowboarding. For winter sports fanatics, the snowy season is a great time to visit. If you find yourself headed there this winter, rent a car and follow our itinerary for a spectacular four-day circuit around Biwako.
Day 1 Take a cruise on Lake Biwa Choose from three types of cruises to take in the breathtaking scenery of Lake Biwa by boat: the Michigan Cruise, the Chikubushima Cruise, and the Biwako Tour of Islands. Trips go for around 60–120 minutes and costs vary depending on cruise type.
Try Funazushi Funazushi is a type of narezushi local to Shiga. The dish is made with a type of Japanese carp called nigorobuna, and it can only be found in Lake Biwa. The fish is preserved in salt, aged for a year, then compressed with steamed rice and fermented for up to four years. The result is a product with a strong smell, similar to that of blue cheese. While it can be an acquired taste, a good spot to try it is at Ganzo Sakamotoya.
LOCAL DELICACY FUNAZUSHI FERMENTED SUSHI
Stroll the grounds of Enryaku-ji The renowned temple of Enryaku-ji, the first outpost of the Japanese Tendai sect of Buddhism, was founded atop Mount Hiei in 788. There are around 100 historical buildings in the vicinity. A ropeway takes you to top of the mountain where you can walk between the World Heritage buildings and see expansive views over Lake Biwa.
Stay the night at Ogoto Onsen Perched on the edge of Lake Biwa, this onsen town has a long history of about 1,200 years. Book a room in a traditional ryokan (Japanese style inn) with hot spring facilities like Yumotokan Ryokan, which offers open-air baths where you can soak with lake views.
STROLL AROUND THE GROUNDS OF ENRYAKU-JI TEMPLE AT THE TOP OF MT. HIEI
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LEFT: SKI OR SNOWBOARD THE SLOPES AROUND LAKE BIWA
PHOTOS: HAKODATEYAMA, RANDY POEHLMAN; NAGAHAMA CASTLE, FLICKR.COM/LASTA29
ABOVE: NAGAHAMA CASTLE
Day 2
Stay at a Lakeside Hotel
Ski and snowboard at Hakodateyama Ski Resort
Drive to the port city of Nagahama and check into a lakeside hotel like Green Hotel Yes Nagahama Minatokan or North Biwako Hotel Grazie to relax before another big day in the snow.
The slopes of Hakodateyama are well known across Kansai, located 690m above sea level in a mountainous region to the northwest of JR Omi-Imazu Station. Known for its heavy powder falls in January and February, the richly varied piste caters to everyone from beginners to advanced-level skiiers and snowboarders. The use of artificial snow machines allows skiing to start in December.
Eat a local eel dish Refuel at restaurant Nishitomo with unagi don—bowls of rice with fillets of grilled eel layered on top. Another local eel dish made using eel caught in lake Biwa is unagi nabe, where the eel is prepared in a stew similar to sukiyaki with tofu and vegetables including burdock root and spring onions.
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Day 3 Hit the slopes at Grand Snow Okuibuki One of the larger ski resorts in the Kansai area, this location has a richly varied trail layout that makes good use of the natural terrain of the slopes. Okuibuki is on the border of Shiga and Gifu prefectures and with less total meterage than Biwako Valley, is also generally less crowded. There are nine lifts serving the different pistes which run from 300m to 900m. In recent years, the number of snow machines has increased in order to maintain peak trail conditions throughout the season.
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Peruse the streets of Nagahama Within the city of Nagahama, there is an abundance of specialty shops and attractions. From the famous glass-making shop Kurokabe to the eclectic Kaiyodo Figure Museum, there is plenty to check out, as well Nagahama Castle.
Eat Omi Beef Don’t miss the chance to taste the regional Omi beef, one of the top-rated brands of Japanese Wagyu beef. There are several Nagahama restaurants serving quality Omi beef in various dishes, such as teppanyaki and sukiyaik. Or you can grill it yourself at yakiniku restaurant Morishima Nagahama Kurokabe.
ABOVE: BECOME A NINJA FOR THE DAY AT KOKA NINJA HOUSE RIGHT: TUNNEL ENTRANCE AT THE MIHO MUSEUM
Hikone Castle This original castle, which was built in 1622, is one of Japan’s better-preserved castles and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Climb up to the top of the castle tower and take in sweeping views of Lake Biwa. You can also take a boat ride along the moat surrounding the castle.
Stroll through Genkyu-en Garden Genkyu-en is a daimyo (feudal lord) garden located to the north east of Hikone-ji, created to resemble the Eight Views of Omi — traditional views of Omi Prefecture, which is now Shiga.
Koka Ninja House Koka was situated on the ancient Tokaido Road, which was the main route from Kyoto to Edo (modern day Tokyo) and strategically important. It is famous for its ninja history and the Koka clan was a well-known ninja clan. Today, you can discover their secrets at the Koka Ninja House. Here you will find a 300 year old
ninja estate that actually belonged to a famous ninja leader. The ninja house contains trap doors, false walls, and hidden rooms that were designed to protect the home from potential intruders. You can also see a display of ninja weaponry and historical artefacts as well as trying your hand at throwing a shuriken.
Mosey around Miho Museum The approach to this museum was created by the Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei, who is known for designing the glass pyramid at the Louvre Museum in Paris. Visitors travel down a walkway enveloped by cherry trees and pass through a tunnel and over a bridge before arriving at the museum. The design was inspired by the ethereal utopia described in the Taohua Yuan Ji (The Peach Blossom Spring), an ancient Chinese work written by Tao Yuanming.
View works at the Sagawa Art Museum
works of three of Japan’s greats; artist Ikuo Hirayama (1930-2009), sculptor Sato Churyo (1912-2011) and ceramics master Kichizaemon Raku.
Pay a visit to Miidera The temple Miidera, as also known as Onjoji, is one of the most important temples in Shiga. There are over 100 national treasures and important cultural properties preserved in this structure. Miidera also offers an exclusive temple lodging for travelers who happen to be able to afford it. Usually, a Japanese shukubo (temple stay) is reasonably priced, including a modest, healthy, vegan meal, and is minimalistic when it comes to accommodation. But the arrangement at Miidera is a little different. The temple lodging facility is called Myogon-in, and it is a high-end, luxury temple lodging with prices going from ¥150,000/person. It only accepts 1 group per night (2 to 4 people), which means you have the entire lodge to yourself.
Located near Lake Biwa, is one of the most popular art museums in Shiga. This elegant space, also known as the “floating museum,” features three separate halls in which you can view the
Find it…
Otsu Port, 5-1-1 Hamaotsu, Otsu City; biwakokisen.co.jp/en • Enryakuji, 4220 Sakamotohonmachi, Otsu; hieizan.or.jp • Ganzo Sakamotoya, 1 Chome-5-21, Otsu; sakamotoya.biz • Ogoto Onsen Yumotokan, 2-30-7 Noka, Otsu; ryokusuitei.com • Hakodateyama Ski Resort, Imazucho Hiokimae, Takashima; hakodateyama.com • Nishitomo 2-1-20 Imazucho Sumiyoshi, Takashima; nishitomo.co.jp • Green Hotel Yes Nagahama Minatokan, 2-28 Minatocho, Nagahama; nagahamaminatokan.com • North Biwako Hotel Grazie, 4-17 Minatocho, Nagahama; k-grazie.co.jp • Grand Snow Okuibuki, Kozuhara, Maibara City; okuibuki.co.jp • Morishima Nagahama Kurokabe, 11-27 Motohamacho, Nagahama; oumi-usi.co.jp • Hikone Castle & Genkyu-en Garden , 1-1 Konkicho, Hikone; city.hikone.shiga.jp • Koka Ninja House, 2331 Konancho Ryuboshi, Koka; kouka-ninjya.com • Miho Museum Momodani-300 Shigarakicho Tashiro, Koka; miho.or.jp • Sagawa Art Museum 2891 Kitagawa, Mizuho-cho, Moriyama-shi; sagawa-artmuseum.or.jp • Miidera Temple 246 Onjojicho, Otsu, Shiga 520-0036; shiga-miidera.or.jp
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PHOTOS: KOKA NINJA HOUSE, FLICKR.COM/GO.BIWAKO; MIHO MUSEUM, FLICKR.COM/JOHNWEISS
Day 4
Kansai International Airport
Yoshino
Ominesan Koyasan
Yunomine Onsen
Kumano Hongu Taisha
Takajiri-Oji Chikatsuyu
Kawayu Onsen
Kii-Tanabe
Kumano Hayatama Taisha
Kumano Nachi Taisha Kii-Katsuura
TRAVEL
THE KII TO UNLOCK YOUR WINTER Discover a new corner of Kansai with healing hot springs, nature walks, and ancient festivals. TEXT: ALENA ECKELMANN
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PHOTOS: KUMANO HIKING TRAIL; TANABE TOURISM BUREAU; KOYASAN JIZO, FLICKR.COM/MDESJARDIN; KONPON DAITO, JASON HAIDAR
COLORFUL JIZO GUARDIANS WATCH OVER THE TOMBS IN KOYASAN
K
oyasan, Kumano and Yoshino are three sacred sites on the Kii Peninsula. Connected by trails with one another and to the ancient capitals of Nara and Kyoto, these sites have prospered as spiritual centers for over 1,200 years, and have lost nothing of their mystical appeal today. This year, these power spots celebrated their 15th anniversary of receiving UNESCO World Heritage status, inscribed as the “Sacred Mountains and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountains” in July 2004. This 9,900 square kilometer area of mountains and forests, once the ancient province of Kii, feels worlds apart from the Osaka city buzz or Kyoto tourist trails, yet it is just a train ride away.
Snow and Good Fortune on Koyasan Koyasan sits on a mountain plateau at an altitude of 900 meters. It receives heavy snowfall in January and February covering the 120 temples of this mountain monastery in a powdery white carpet, which contrasts beautifully with the bright vermillion Konpon Daito (Big Pagoda) in the Danjo Garan sacred precinct and the orange-colored robes of the monks. Walk along the two-kilometer path in the Okunoin graveyard and admire the snow-capped Gorinto stupas of over 200,000 tombs under towering cedar trees that are hundreds of years old. The Shusho-e Buddhist ceremony takes place on January 1, 2, 3 at the
Kondo hall and on Jan 5 at the Daito hall in the Danjo Garan from 9am where Koyasan’s monks pray for good fortune. New Year in Koyasan is a good time to tour the Shichifukujin, the Japanese Seven Deities of Good Fortune. A popular New Year activity, you only need to go to four temples to see all seven deities: Kumagaiji, Ekoin, Hozenin near the entrance of the Okunoin graveyard and Hongakuin near the police station. If you would like to collect the special stamps related to these deities, ask for a stamp pad at one of the temples. Access: Ride the Limited Express on the Nankai Koya line from Namba Station, followed by the Koya Cable Car (1h 30min).
THE BRIGHT VERMILLION KONPON DAITO PAGAODA
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TAKE A DIP IN THE TINY TSUBOYU ONSEN IN YUNOMINE
THE DRAMATIC OTO MATSURI IN SHINGU CITY TAKES PLACE ON FEB 6
Fire Race in Shingu
The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails in the south of the Kii Peninsula are mostly snow-free. The Dainichi goe trail between Yunomine Onsen and Hongu (2.5km) and the Nakahechi trail between Hosshinmon-oji and Hongu Town (7km) make for short contemplative walks before soaking one of the nearby onsen. The Hongu area of Kumano is a hot spring mecca with three onsen villages—Yunomine, Wataze and Kawayu—so close to each other that you can walk between them all in one day. Start in the morning with the tiny teal-colored piping-hot Tsuboyu in Yunomine, the smallest onsen you will ever see sitting inside a petite wooden hut. You need to go to the ticket office next door to book a 30-minute slot in advance, as it can be popular with the visitors staying overnight in this quaint little town. Next, walk to Wataraze Onsen to enjoy the largest rotenburo (open-air bath) in all of Western Japan. There are several outdoor pools of different temperatures to try. Less than a kilometer away, you’ll find the Sennin Buro, which is the local winter attraction. Literally a “1,000 Person Bath,” this is a hot spring pool dug from the banks of the Oto River in Kawayu. Everyone wears a bathing suit to enjoy this unusual winter hot spring together. It operates from mid-December to the end of February.
If you come to Kumano in February, try to coordinate your visit with the Oto Matsuri in Shingu City. This spectacular ancient fire festival takes place on February 6. Participants are men only but everyone can watch. Throughout the day, you will see groups of men dressed in all white roaming the city to get ready for the big contest: a race down more than 500 steep and slippery stone steps of Kamikura Shrine. Each one of the 2,000 men carries a flaming torch, lit at a sacred fire on top of the mountain, to bring light and good fortune to their families. Seen from afar, this mass of fire on the move is said to resemble a fiery dragon descending the mountain.
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Access: Board the JR Limited Express Kuroshio at ShinOsaka Station or Tennoji Station (some trains also run from Kyoto) and ride to Shingu (4h).
Ogre Gathering in Yoshino The Onibi Festival takes place at Mt. Yoshino on February 3. Oni means ogre in Japanese and traditionally, they are driven out of the house in a beanthrowing ritual during Setsubun (start of spring). In Yoshino, however, they are invited in, together with good luck, to celebrate the end of winter with locals and visitors.
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In the centuries-old Zao Do hall of Kimpusen-ji temple, a group of oni will be reprimanded and purified by Shugendo monks, followers of an ancient mountain asceticism tradition. The monks pose in full regalia and play their conch shells. Next, the oni will perform a round dance in front of the temple, followed by a big outdoor bonfire set by the mountain monks. A mamemaki (bean throwing) ceremony concludes the celebrations. The festivities start the night before, on February 2, with the oni roaming around the streets after dark, terrorizing the local kids and pestering visitors at restaurants and inns. From 8.20pm, there will be a wadaiko (Japanese drum) performance in front of the Zao Do hall in candle light. The Oni Yakkai, a summit of oni from the whole of Nara Prefecture, concludes the ogre spectacle on the evening of February 8. Access: Board the Kintetsu Limited Express at Osaka Abenobashi Station and ride to Yoshino (1h 15min). Or, book a seat on the Blue Symphony, a nostalgic train that runs twice daily, and sit in the lounge car sipping sake or wine all the way to Yoshino.
PHOTOS: TSUBOYU, FLICKR.COM; OTO MATSURI
Onsen Hopping in Kumano
WHAT’S ON
GREASING PALMS OF THE GODS Get on a lucky streak at the first major festival of the year. TEXT: KS
PHOTO: OSAKA CONVENTION & TOURISM BUREAU
N
ew Year in Japan involves many a ritual and one of the first orders of business is to pay respects to the god of good fortune and prosperity at the Toka Ebisu festival. “Toka” means the tenth day, and Ebisu is the god of good luck. Though centered on the 10th of January, this festival actually lasts for five days from the 8th until the 12th. During this period, thousands of visitors flock to Ebisu Shrine in Kyoto, Imamiya Ebisu Shrine in Osaka, and other Ebisu shrines around the country to conduct a simple ritual of prayer for ongoing success in work and business. In the merchant city of Osaka, people are especially eager to honor this Shinto custom all about money. The city’s working masses gather at Imamiya Ebisu Shrine, giving offerings and prayers to Ebisu, with the hope of being rewarded with monetary wealth in the coming year. Many people buy branches of lucky bamboo grass, called fuku-zasa, which have been blessed in a special ritual by
a shrine maiden. They then buy more lucky charms and talismans, which they attach to the bamboo branch. These charms come in all kinds of designs, but two of the most common are treasure boats for wealth and red sea bream for future success. The fukumusume, or “lucky daughters,” are 50 women selected as representatives for the festival. During the festivities, these women line the perimeter of the shrine, distributing charms and maintaining their composure in the mad rush prayer makers. They are distinguishable by their traditional eboshi hats, which look like giant stockings turned upside down. Given the throngs of people making their way to the Ebisu shrines at this time of year, allow two to three hours minimum for your journey. It may take 20 to 30 minutes to enter the shrine, but the surrounding stalls full of souvenirs and charms will keep you occupied while you wait, as well as the yatai stands hawking takoyaki, yakisoba, grilled pork and chicken skewers, and more.
Jan 9–11 OSAKA
Toka Ebisu festival 十日戎
Imamiya Ebisu Shrine, Osaka The festival runs from the evening of January 9 (the Eve of Ebisu) to January 11. Main festivities are on January 10. The 11th is referred to as the “Last Helping of Luck,” offering visitors one final chance to pray to Ebisu. TIMES: The event takes place from 9am to 9pm, though it is not unusual to see people straggling into the shrine well into the night • ACCESS: Imamiya Ebisu Shrine is a 2-min walk east of JR Imamiyaebisu Stn.
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FEATURE
Storytelling
IN UNCHARTED TERRITORY
The first Western kodanshi recites historical tales of Japan. TEXT: JJ O’DONOGHUE
N
anshun Kyokudou is not your typical Sakamoto Ryoma fan. For starters, she only found out about the Japanese rebel while at university—much later than most Japanese people. That introduction came via two photographs, one of Sakamoto and the other of Nakaoka Shintaro, both given to her by a Japanese friend in America. Back then, Nanshun Kyokudou was also not her name. That transition came later. The pictures of the two samurai comrades were presented as kind of a riddle by Kyokudou’s friend. He told her the pair were famous, but deliberately left out that they were assassinated on the same night, encouraging her to learn about them for herself. Years later, Kyokudou can still recall the picture of a solemn-faced
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Sakamoto dressed in a kimono and hakama with his sword sheathed through his obi. One detail of his attire that was especially striking: he was wearing western-style boots. “I remember thinking, ‘what is a traditional samurai wearing boots for and why was this so special that he had to take a picture with them on?’” That photo was the hook for Kyokudou, the one that really led her down the rabbit hole of Japanese history. That image of Sakamoto has stayed with her as she moved from Georgia to Osaka where she’s lived since 2007. For the last six years, she’s been a professional kodanshi performer, a (true) storytelling art form which mines history to deliver short invigorating and informative performances. You can probably guess who Kyokudou’s go-to historical figure is: the samurai with the boots on.
Kodan For the uninitiated, kodan is a lot like rakugo, another storytelling art form, albeit one with a much higher profile. But, as Kyokudou explained, kodan has a longer history. Broadly speaking, rakugo—which is younger by about two centuries— has its origins in Buddhism. Similar to a Catholic sermon, Buddhist priests would deliver a witty tale that had some sort of moral in it—“the thing that you should or shouldn’t have done.” Kodan’s origins are mixed, but mostly come from the samurai class, specifically wounded warriors, who— no longer able to fight—took to the road as kind of a roving reporter. “They were a traditional newscaster of their day,” says Kyokudou. Granted the news cycle moved much
slower, literally as long as it took for the samurai to get from one fief to the next. Whereupon the samurai would recount to his audience a tale of a battle or some newsworthy event. In return, the retired samurai would be fed and found. As news dissemination went, it was pretty slow, but the oral tradition put down roots and has stayed with us. While kodan and rakugo are similar in how they are performed, they differ in tone. Rakugo is usually comedic. Kodan is mostly about history, but those history lessons can be on anything from a consequential battle to the origins of jazz. A typical kodan performance lasts 10–15 minutes. At its core, it’s a history lesson which draws the audience in through the performance. The stories Kyokudou tells are mostly drawn from the time of Bakamatsu, a tumultuous 15-year period that lead to Japan giving up on its isolationist stance mid way through the 19th century. A performance could be distilled from a vignette or a single line of an old history book.
PHOTOS: PERFORMANCE, KODANSHA; TEMPLE PORTRAIT, JJ O’DONOGHUE
A Foreign-born Kodanshi After a brief stint learning Japanese as an exchange student at Kansai Gaidai University, Kyokudou moved to Osaka to take a position as English-language teacher on the government-sponsored JET program in 2007. Kyokudou’s first exposure to kodan was in Osaka when a group of local performers showcased a few different native art forms—one of which was kodan. For Kyokudou, it was a eureka moment: discovering that there existed a storytelling art based on history. After the event, she talked with one of the kodan performers and explained her interest in Japanese history, especially that of Ryoma Sakamoto. The initial reaction was positive. It was all uncharted territory in the beginning, Kyokudou explains, as unlike rakugo there were no other foreign-born kodanshi at the time, and they didn’t know if she would be able to go pro. In the end it wasn’t an especially big deal: her senior introduced her to their
kodan master, and Kyokudou explained her case again. As is tradition, her master formulated her stage name— Nanshun Kyokudou—and she became professional in 2013. In the beginning, Kyokudou says she suffered from extreme stage fright: it’s a tough act telling history stories in a foreign language to an audience well-versed in them. But she overcame it, and while it’s still an ordeal, Kyokudou is more comfortable on stage. Recently though she feels she’s reached a plateau in terms of her Japanese language ability. While performers are not supposed to read on stage, lately Kyokudou has been struggling with memorization and so she does keep a script ready in case she needs it. The scripts however are a point of contention. “You need to stop that,” is the message Kyokudou is getting from her fellow performers. “I have hit sort of a plateau. My master has gotten frustrated with me and all of my brothers and sisters have got frustrated with me because they feel like they can’t communicate with me.” It boils down to language, and Kyokudou feels she has hit a wall. Right now it’s a question of finding time; she juggles a handful of part-time jobs in Osaka and Kyoto, she’s also got her head buried in history books, and then there are the performances. On average she does about half a dozen performances a month—in Japanese. She’s been trying out performances in English, but the main problem here is not performative, but rather one of reception. “I don’t think anyone knows what kodan is,” Kyokudou says, telling me she’s had to cancel a few performances for lack of an audience. As to the awareness of kodan, she might be right. But as Kyokudou says if more foreign residents knew that kodan was an interesting way to learn about history, then it might succeed. By virtue of being different to all her fellow performers, Kyokudou has attracted media attention. She’s happy with it as long as it serves kodan. Kyokudou is usually attired in kimono even when she is not performing—she has a collection of hundreds, many of
which are hand-me-downs. For the past year, she has been wearing a kimono every day. She’s aware of the gaze that she attracts, but she’s also aware that for many she simply passes as a tourist dressed up for the day. It doesn’t bother her. Sadly, Kyokudou’s father never got to see her become a kodan performer, as he passed way before she found the art form. “Once he passed away I was like, ‘who can I share my stories with?’ It was a big hole that got left open.” Through kodan, she’s found an audience to share stories that surely he too would have loved.
More Details Nanshun Kyokudou has English Kodan and English Rakugo Yose performances on December 19th. The event is called International Folk Tale Yose and will be performed at Aijitsu Kaikan. Address: Chuo Ward, Honmachi 4-7-11 Admission: ¥2,000 Make a reservation via k.fukuryu@gmail.com
http://rirara.com/haru Facebook: @kyokudo.nanshun
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What’s On Cultural HYOGO
47 RONIN FESTIVAL 赤穂義士祭
Dec 14 • Ako Castle & Surroundings December 14th marks the anniversary of 47 samurai heroes who took revenge on the death of their lord in the Edo period. This national legend is still much loved by Japanese people – it is on TV, and in films and plays even today. Visit the hometown of these heroes and see the festival held to pay tribute to the great achievement of the samurai. Witness the grand parade reenacting combat scenes and featuring elegant costumes from this period. The renowned actor, Hideki Takahashi will join the parade to reenact the leader of the clan along with a variety of other entertainment groups.
CITY OF AKO
TIME: 10am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Banshu-Ako Stn • city.ako. lg.jp/kensetsu/kankou/matsuri/akogishisai.html
What’s On Guide 24
OSAKA
OSAKA CASTLE ILLUMINAGE 大阪城イルミナージュ
Until Mar 1 • Osaka Castle Park Head to Nishinomaru garden and enjoy the grandiose view of Osaka Castle splashed with an array of colors and special effects during the 3D projection-mapping extravaganza that is the Osaka Castle Illuminage. Designed with a samuraiperiod theme, there will also be illuminations with a European townscape motif inspired by the influx of Western culture during the Meiji Restoration. At this winter family event, there will be traditional Japanese street performances, lightsaber sword plays, food stalls, and more. TIME: 5pm–10pm (Illumination between 5:30pm-9:30pm) • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 adults, concessions • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Tanimachi Line, Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn, 10-min walk • illuminagegroup.com/ osakacastleilluminage2019english/
OSAKA
UMEDA SNOWMAN FESTIVAL
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梅田スノーマンフェスティ バル
Nov 22–Dec 25 • Umeda Station & Surroundings Winter motifs take over the Umeda area during this month-long event. Participate in the ‘snowman rally’ by strolling around Umeda and scanning QR codes on your phone to win prizes. Take pictures at the Instagrammable photo spots and savor some snowman-inspired menus popping up in 37 eateries. Live music performances and DIY workshops are held on the weekends. TIME: All day (See website for
details) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Osaka Stn, Hanshin Umeda Stn & Hankyu Osaka Umeda Stn • umeda-connect.jp/ special/snowman/ OSAKA
WHITE HORSE CEREMONY 白馬神事
Jan 7 • Sumiyoshi Taisha In this ceremony unique to Sumiyoshi Shrine, a white horse adorned with ceremonial accessories is guided by priests while circuiting the four main areas of the shrine grounds then galloping around the precinct.
This ceremony is based on a ritual from the Heian period (794—1185) when the imperial court believed one would receive good fortune if they saw a white horse at the beginning of the year.
Stn, 5-min walk • sakai-tcb.or.jp/ event/index.php?id=102 OSAKA
TOKA EBISU FESTIVAL 十日戎
Dec 14 • Iwatsuta Shrine Witness this curious religious event where participants shout ‘Yassai Hossai!’ while walking on red hot coals. Based on a legend where the local villagers took care of the god of business Ebisu when he drifted ashore, 108 bundles of wood are burnt in front of the gods. After the coals are prepared, participants chant and carry a villager acting as Ebisu over the fiery path. After the ritual, visitors can take home the coals as a form of good fortune.
Jan 9–11 • Imamiya Ebisu Shrine The Toka Ebisu festival is held all around Kansai, but no place does it bigger and better than Osaka’s Imamiya Ebisu Shrine. Every year, more than one million people make the pilgrimage from all over Kansai and beyond to Imamiya Ebisu Shrine to pray for success in business to Ebisu, the patron god of business and fisheries. Those hoping for his blessing in the new year buy lucky bamboo branches adorned with various good-luck items such as special coins, sea bream, and rice bales all decorated by lovely miko (shrine maidens) dressed in white kimono with ornate golden headdresses. The threeday ceremony starts on the 9th on the eve of Ebisu and the main parade and other festivities take place on the 10th.
TIME: 8pm • ADMISSION: Free •
TIME: All day • ADMISSION: Free •
ACCESS: Nankai Line, Ishizugawa
ACCESS: JOsaka Subway Sakaisuji Line, Ebisu-cho Stn, 5-min walk;
TIME: 11am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hankai Uemachi Line, Sumiyoshitoriimae Stn; Nankai Line, Sumiyoshi Taisha Stn, 3-min walk • sumiyoshitaisha.net/en
OSAKA
YASSAI HOSSAI – FIREWALKING やっさいほっさい
What’s On Cultural
See Kansaifinder.com for more
OSAKA
OSAKA HIKARI RENAISSANCE 2019 OSAKA光のルネサンス2019
FESTIVAL OF THE LIGHTS IN OSAKA EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE
Dec 14–25 • Nakanoshima Island Nakanoshima Island will be flooded with a sea of colorful lights in a spectacle described as the greatest free light show in Kansai. Fantastic images are projected onto the walls of Osaka City Central Public Hall, while a romantic illuminated arcade known as “Nakanoshima Illumination Street” runs alongside city hall featuring a variety of brightly shining ornaments to set the holiday mood. Taiwanese lanterns from the city of Tainan will create an exotic atmosphere as they swing in the evening breeze. Street-food booths and mobile catering provide tasty eats to enjoy while watching live music shows and street performances. TIME: 5pm–10pm (Some events from 4pm-11pm) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Naniwabashi Stn • hikari-kyoen. com/renaissance
Nankai Koya Line, Imamiya Ebisu Stn • imamiya-ebisu.jp OSAKA
HOE-KAGO GYORETSU PARADE 宝恵かご行列
Jan 10 • Ebisubashi-suji & Surroundings The streets of Minami (south Osaka) come alive as brightly decorated palanquins called hoe-kago parade to Imamiya Ebisu Shrine. Join in on the fun as national celebrities, traditional geisha, and puppets from the bunraku theater make their way through the streets as the crowds cheer them on. The parade starts at Soemon-cho and travels along Dotonbori, Ebisubashi, Sennichimaesuji, and Takashimaya on its way to the shrine. With shrine bearers roaring and shouting to fire up the crowds, the festive atmosphere of this parade makes it one of the city’s most exciting events. TIME: 10am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway / Nankai / Kintetsu Namba Stn • ebisubashi. or.jp
KYOTO
ARCHERY CEREMONY 奉射祭
Jan 12 • Fushimi Inari Shrine During this Shinto ceremony, rituals are performed to repel evil and welcome good vibes. After a series of rituals held in the main hall, the archery ceremony takes place outside. A priest shoots a purified arrow in multiple directions. Subsequently, two other priests shoot arrows aiming at a target mounted on a 15-meter mythical dragon (commonly associated with evil) made from ropes. TIME: 2pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Inari Stn; Keihan Fushimi Inari Stn, 5-min walk • inari.jp
KYOTO
GODAIRIKI-SAN (WEIGHTLIFTING CONTEST) 五大力尊仁王会 餅上げ力 奉納
Feb 23 Feb 23 • Daigoji Temple As part of the GodairikiSan ceremony, participants attempt to please the deity of the temple by lifting a gigantic two-layered kagami-mochi (rice cake). Male participants will carry 150kg and females 90kg on a large stage constructed
in front of the main hall. As the crowds cheer, each participant challenges the record of holding the mochi as long as possible. Those wishing to participate can register at the temple on the day of the festival. TIME: See website for details • ADMISSION: ¥800 adults, concessions • ACCESS: Daigo Subway Stn, 10-min walk • daigoji.or.jp
KYOTO
OSAKA
SETSUBUN MIBU KYOGEN
DOYA DOYA – BUDDHIST GOOD LUCK CEREMONY
壬生狂言「節分」公開
Feb 2–3 • Mibu Temple Kyogen are short plays with exaggerated movements that originated about 700 years ago to spread Buddhist teachings to a wide audience. Mibu Kyogen (or Mibu Dainenju Kyogen specifically) uses no spoken dialogue during the performance. To celebrate the traditional holiday of Setsubun, a kyogen performance will be performed live every hour on the hour. Watch the comical act of a bright red ogre being chased away as handfuls of roasted soybeans are thrown at him. TIME: 1pm–8pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JHankyu line, Omiya Stn, 8-min walk • mibudera.com/eng/ pages/plays.html
修正会結願法要（どやどや）
Jan 14 • Shitennoji Temple At this rowdy festival held at Shitennoji Temple, hundreds of seminaked male students scramble to get their hands on religious objects said to bring good luck. This Buddhist event is called Doya Doya—named for the sound made by hundreds of stamping feet—and is performed as the closing ceremony of an essential ritual held to bring in the New Year. The real action starts a little after 2pm when talismans are cast from the beams in the Rokujido Hall. At this point, young men wearing nothing but white loincloths, red headbands, and {tabi} (traditional Japanese socks) jostle with one another to catch the lucky charms. TIME: 2pm–3:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Tanimachi Line, Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Stn, 5-min walk • shitennoji.or.jp
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What’s On Cultural WAKAYAMA
OTO MATSURI (FIRE FESTIVAL) お燈まつり
WAKAYAMA TOURISM FEDERATION
Feb 6 • Kamikura Shrine Two thousand men known as {nobori-ko} clad in all-white attire will hold torches and run down the 538 stone steps from the peak of Kamikura mountain. These men have gone through a week-long purification period where they eat only white colored foods such as tofu, rice and fish paste, and refrain from interaction with women. On the day of the ceremony, the shrine’s doors are closed at 7pm and the fire is distributed to the torches. As the gates open at 8pm, the men rush down the steps, creating a fiery wave that resembles a flying dragon. TIME: 8pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Nanki Line, Shingu Stn, 15-min walk • kumanohayatama.jp
KYOTO WAKAYAMA
NEW YEAR’S LAUGHTER RITUAL 初詣初笑い神事
WAKAYAMA TOURISM FEDERATION
Jan 2 & 3 • Nyu Shrine Laugh your head off for a jolly start to the new year. Enjoy the company of Mr. Suzufuri who will be wearing a colorful costume and doing his best to make you giggle. TIME: 10am–3pm • ADMISSION: ¥200 • ACCESS: JR Gobo Stn, shuttle bus to Nyu-jinja • guruwaka. com/hatsumoude-hatsuwarai
KAYABUKI NO SATO SNOW LANTERN FESTIVAL 美山かやぶきの里「雪灯廊」
Jan 25–Feb 1 • Miyama Kayabuki no Sato Step back in time and see old Japan at this illumination event located north of Kyoto City. Kayabuki no Sato (the thatched village) is lit up decoratively and the whole village is adorned with Yukitouro or snow lanterns, which visitors can experience making. Food stalls and traditional Japanese dance performances are also held during this period. TIME: 5pm–8pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Sanin Line, Sonobe or Hiyoshi Stn, bus to Kayabuki no Sato; reserving a round-trip tickets for bus from JR Kyoto Stn is highly recommended • yukitouro.jp/en
HYOGO
ONIKOSO – CHASING EVIL OGRES 追儺式（鬼こそ）
Feb 11 • Chikurinzan Joshoji Temple Four ogres march around a temple hall with heavy footsteps and throw flaming torches into the garden. This ceremony marks the beginning of spring with its 600 year old history, as the ogres follow the lead
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of a sennin or hermit, and conducting gestures of cutting mochi and fire tricks. TIME: 1:20pm • ADMISSION: Free
• ACCESS: JR Fukuchiyama Line, Tanigawa Stn, 20-min walk • chikurinzan.info SHIGA
GOKASHO HINA-NINGYO DOLLS 商家に伝わるひな人形めぐり
Feb 8–Mar 15 • Gokasho Omishonin-Yashiki Hina Matsuri (Girls’ Day Festival) is one of the most important festivals in Japan. It is the day that families pray for the happiness and prosperity of their young daughters. Many families display a set of figurines called hina-ningyo for this day of celebration. The picturesque town of Gokasho will have various dolls on display at the Ohmi merchants’ houses, which are regularly open to the public as museums. There, visitors will get the chance to admire beautiful dolls, which have been passed down through many generations displayed in historic houses. TIME: 9:30am–4:30pm (Closed Feb 12, 17, 25 & Mar 9) • ADMISSION: ADMISSION: ¥600 (for 3 houses) adults, concessions • ACCESS: JR Biwako Line, Notogawa Stn, bus to Plaza
Sanpoyoshi-mae • higashiomi.net/ notogawa/466.html NARA
ONI HASHIRI – OGRES WITH FLAMING TORCHES 陀々堂の鬼はしり（だだどうの おにはしり）
Jan 14 • Nenbutsu Temple A family of red, blue and brown ogres chase bad fortune away by waving large torches in the temple. Contrary to the stereotype of “bad” ogres, the ogres here are regarded as “good” because they are Buddhist apprentices. While a series of rituals start from 1pm, the highlight starts at 9pm when the ogres perform the fire ritual backdropped by gongs and Buddhist chanting. TIME: 9pm-10pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Wakayama line, YamatoFutami Stn, 10-min taxi ride • gojo. ne.jp/g-kanko/leisure/01oni-hashiri. html
NARA
OTATEYAMA FESTIVAL 大立山まつり
Jan 25 & 26 • Heijokyo Palace Site Four gigantic colorful floats housing Buddhist gods will appear at the palace site. These floats humanshaped floats are referred to as large-scale Tateyama. Localized versions of
What’s On Cultural
KASUGA TAISHA
See Kansaifinder.com for more
NARA
ON-MATSURI おん祭
Dec 15–18 • Kasuga Shrine The On-Matsuri is a festival held at Wakamiya Shrine, which stands in the precincts of the Kasuga Taisha, one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Historic pageantry lasts for four days to celebrate the deity of the shrine. On the 17th, the grand parade— Owatari-shiki—featuring thousands of participants in traditional costumes starts at noon. In the afternoon after the parade, various performances with traditional music and dance will be staged near the Nara National Museum until late. TIME: Depends on event • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Line, Nara Stn, bus to Kasuga-taisha Omotesando • kasugataisha.or.jp/onmatsuri
these floats can be found in the smaller neighborhoods of Nara. During this period, Nara’s traditional dishes are available from the vendors. TIME: 11am–7pm (until 6pm on Jan 26) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Line, Nara
TIME: 6:30am–10pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Shingu Stn, bus to Kawayu Onsen • tb-kumano.jp/en/onsen/kawayu/
WAKAYAMA
HONSHU’S SOUTHERNMOST FIRE FESTIVAL 本州最南端の火祭り（望楼の芝焼 き）
WAKAYAMA
Jan 25 • Shionomisaki Observatory Tower Lawn A spectacular field-burning event where flaming arrows are shot to ignite the grassland. Watch as the fire spreads rapidly across the six hectares of open area facing the Pacific Ocean, engulfing the fields and lighting up the surrounding area. Come early to enjoy the local food stands and dance performances held at the venue from 1pm.
NEW YEAR’S COUNTDOWN & STARLIGHT ILLUSION 2020 ニューイヤーズカウントダウン2020
Dec 31 • Wakayama Marina City Celebrate New Year’s Eve and welcome 2020 with an exciting live music show and the “Starlight Illusion” fireworks display. This is one of the largest New Year’s Eve events in Kansai held annually at Wakayama Marina City. Enjoy the gig with a star DJ from FM 802, a guest band, and local musicians. At the end of the show, a stunning display of fireworks spreading across the sky above Port Europa celebrating the new year.
WAKAKUSA YAMAYAKI – BURNING MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL 若草山焼き
Jan 25 • Mt. Wakakusa in Nara Park Join this magnificent spectacle where 33 hectares of grassland is turned into a sea of flames. Heralding the coming spring and attracting millions of people each year, this event can be traced back to the 18th century, but its true origin is unknown. Starting with a fireworks display, the whole of Mt. Wakakusa gradually goes up in flames. Before the event, there will be dancing and a ceremony performed by the Nara fire brigade. TIME: 6:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Nara Stn, bus to Daibutsuden Kasugataisha-mae, 15-min walk • nara-park.com/yamayakien
NARA CITY TOURIST ASSOCIATION
Stn / Kintetsu Yamato Saidaiji Stn, bus to Heijokyo Palace Site • ootateyama.jp
NARA
TIME: 5:30pm-6:20pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Kushimoto Stn, bus to Shionomisaki • kankou-kushimoto.jp
TIME: 7pm–12:40am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Kainan Stn, bus to Marina City • marinacity.com
WAKAYAMA
SENNIN-BURO HOT SPRING 仙人風呂
Until Feb 28 • Kawayu Onsen A giant open-air natural hotspring is dug on the banks of the Ohtou River. Lanterns light up the outdoor bathing area on Saturdays. A related religious festival is scheduled on January 12th, where paper-mache dolls and other motifs are displayed alongside the onsen.
Looking for more Events? See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
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Sights & Attractions
Museums
THE MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS, OSAKA Regarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum for ceramic enthusiasts. It is located in leafy Nakanoshima next to the iconic Central Public Hall. ///dealings.lifelong.mimics • 1-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-62230055 • moco.or.jp
CUPNOODLES MUSEUM This offbeat museum in Ikeda pays tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of the instant noodle. Great for kids, there are fun, hands-on activities and, for only ¥300, you can design your own bespoke cup noodles (takes about 45 mins). ///candles.shell.magic • 8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda • TEL: 072-752-3484 • cupnoodlesmuseum.jp
OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUM This educational museum on Nakanoshima Island boasts four floors of more than 200 interactive exhibits and displays designed to help children learn about chemistry, electricity, energy, and the universe. The planetarium’s main dome has a radius of almost 27 meters, making it the largest in Japan and the seventh-largest in the world. ///owns.trusts.hostels • 4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-64445656 • sci-museum.jp
MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND LIVING This museum depicts everyday Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life-sized interactive recreation of an Edo-era neighborhood. ///wipe.natural.spray • 6-4-20 Tenjinbashi, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6242-1170 • konjyakukan.com
Monuments and Landmarks
SUMIYOSHI SHRINE Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Founded in the 3rd century before Buddhism came to the country, it has a distinctive architectural style called Sumiyoshi-zukuri that is free of influence from mainland Asia.
///author.condiment.nozzle • 2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi Ward • TEL: 06-66720753 • sumiyoshitaisha.net
OSAKA CASTLE If it’s your first time to Osaka then you are duty-bound to visit this 400-year-old castle in the beautiful grounds of the expansive Osaka Castle Park. The small museum inside offers a thorough insight into its history.
ISTOCK.COM/SETSUKON
Osaka
///surround.librarian.shins • 1-1 Osakajo, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6941-3044 • osakacastle.net
UMEDA SKY BUILDING One of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, the Floating Garden Observatory connecting its two towers offers 360-degree panoramic views. ///fields.pining.rocked • 1-1-88 Oyodonaka, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6440-3900 • skybldg. co.jp
KYOTO
TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARK There’s lots of fun to be had at this old Edo-themed movie park with a brilliant ninja show, staged samurai fights, and the chance to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets. ///seasons.zealous.maternal • 10 Uzumasa Higashihachioka-cho, Ukyo Ward • TEL: 075-864-7716 • toei-eigamura.com
ABENO HARUKAS Japan’s tallest skyscraper at 300m in height is home to an observatory, an art museum, and a hotel as well as a slew of restaurants and hundreds of shops. ///handwriting.lobby.chefs • 1-1-43 Abenosuji, Abeno Ward • TEL: 06-6624-1111 • abenoharukas-300.jp
TSUTENKAKU TOWER Tsutenkaku is one of Osaka’s most iconic landmarks presiding over the Shinsekai area near Tennoji. There are observation decks on the 4th and 5th floors, although at just 103m high, it is dwarfed by the nearby Abeno Harukas. ///ants.seasons.these • 1-18-6 Ebisuhigashi, Naniwa Ward • TEL: 06-6641-9555 • tsutenkaku.co.jp
Attractions
OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKAN One of the largest public aquariums in the world, visitors head to the eighth floor to start the tour and gradually spiral downward floor by floor around the central tank, which houses a whale shark. There are around 15 other tanks, each representing a specific region of the Pacific Rim. ///deserved.gamer.shark • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 06-6576-5501 • kaiyukan.com
LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER OSAKA
A great place for the kids to let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, small rides and 4D cinema that form this indoor LEGO playground. Save money on the entry fee with the Osaka Amazing Pass, which gets you into several of the city’s attractions, including Legoland, over a one- or two-day period. ///paths.teachers.themes • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato Ward • TEL: 0800-1005346 • legolanddiscoverycenter.jp
UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN Giant movie-themed amusement park with thrills and spills for all ages featuring characters from the Universal stable, including Harry Potter, Spiderman, and the Minions. ///talents.humans.oils • 2-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward • TEL: 0570-200-606 • usj.co.jp
SPA WORLD A giant hot-spring theme park with a huge choice of fanciful baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its upper floors. Open 24 hrs.
///sugars.stews.napped • 3-4-24 Ebisuhigashi, Naniwa Ward • TEL: 06-6631-0001 • spaworld.co.jp
EXPO CITY Located in Suita in the north of Osaka, Expo City is a multi-venue complex home to a state-ofthe-art aquarium and animal sanctuary called Nifrel, and the Lalaport shopping center. ///scores.played.pausing • 2-1 Senribanpakukoen, Suita • TEL: 06-61705590 • expocity-mf.com
SILVER BALL PLANET Japan’s mecca for pinball machines housing over 100 machines dating from the 1970s to the present day. ///friends.teachers.tragedy • Big Step 3F, 1-6-14 Nishi-shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-62585000 • silverballplanet.jp
KANSAI CYCLE SPORTS CENTER A bicycle-themed amusement park located in the hills south of Osaka. With pedal-powered roller coasters, a cycle luge, swings, and a host of crazy bikes
Need extra help getting around? The What3words app identifies 3m x 3m squares across the planet with a unique three-word address. This navigation system is particularly useful in Japan where signs are hard to read (if you don’t speak Japanese) and sometimes your map app will take you to the vicinity of a shop, cafe, restaurant, temple, etc., but you don’t know exactly where the entrance is. The three words for a site are presented using three slashes: /// To use: download the What3words app and enter the three words written down for a site (after this symbol: ///) into the app and the location will appear on your device. The system even works offline.
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Sights & Attractions
See Kansaifinder.com for more to try out, this is a fun day out for the whole family. ///dislodge.blusher.officers • 1304 Amanocho, Kawachinagano • TEL: 0721-543101 • kcsc.or.jp
Kyoto
The gallery houses a superb collection of both Japanese and Western modern art with some excellent temporary exhibitions and can be found across the road from the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art.
dancing, magic, juggling, and contemporary special effects.
///privately.shears.hotels • 26-1 Okazaki Enshojicho, Sakyo Ward • TEL: 075-761-4111 • momak.go.jp
A modern aquarium in Umekoji Park with aquatic creatures presented across 12 different themed areas. Great for a rainyday activity or for families with young children.
Museums
KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM
NIJO CASTLE
This is one of Japan’s oldest museums housing a permanent collection of Japanese artefacts, treasures, and artworks.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo Castle encompasses several gardens and the beautifully preserved Ninomaru Palace whose lavishly decorated rooms feature ornate woodwork and stunning wall paintings. ///party.lorry.withdraw • 541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-841-0096 • city. kyoto.jp
KYOTO RAILWAY MUSEUM This 30,000-square-meter space features 53 engines ranging from the Japan’s oldest steam locomotive to more recent shinkansen models. Kids will go crazy for the train simulators and interactive dioramas. ///selects.costumes.moral • Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward • TEL: 0570-080-462 • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp
KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART
///someone.piston.dots • 527 Chayacho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-525-2473 • kyohaku.go.jp
KYOTO INTERNATIONAL MANGA MUSEUM This massive collection of contemporary and historical manga, comics, and graphic novels housed in a former primary school is a huge hit with manga and comic buffs the world over. ///dearest.tractor.between • 452 Kinbukicho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-2547414 • kyotomm.jp
Attractions
GEAR A long-running non-verbal theater show that continues to delight all ages. It mixes mime,
///awake.smaller.handwriting • 1928 Blg. 3F, 56 Benkeiishi-cho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-254-6520 • gear.ac
KYOTO AQUARIUM
///soldiers.grants.alright • 35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward • TEL: 075-354-3130 • kyoto-aquarium.com
Nara Museums
NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM Expanding over four buildings with wheelchair access, this museum holds treasures from the Nara period (710 to 784 AD) plus Buddhist and decorative art from around Japan with explanations in English. ///officers.sweetly.actor • 50 Noborioji-cho, Nara City • TEL: 050-5542-8600 • narahaku. go.jp/english/index_e.html
NARA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF ART Nara’s main art museum has an extensive collection of Japanese art with a focus on the Edo and Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate every two to three months and explanations of most pieces are in English. There is a good museum shop and regular free workshops and activities for families. Free for seniors and for foreigners with ID.
FLICKR/YUZOUHUANG
NARA PARK
One of Kyoto’s most iconic sites, the exquisite golden pavilion, whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf, was once the retirement villa of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. It became a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408. Absolutely stunning after a snowfall. ///demand.inviting.spotted • 1 Kinkakuji-cho, Kita Ward • Tel: 075-461-0013 • shokoku-ji.jp
///announce.mascots.prove • 160 Kasuganocho, Nara • TEL: 0742-22-7788 • kasugataisha.or.jp
Hyogo KOBE FASHION MUSEUM
Monuments and Landmarks
KINKAKU-JI
KASUGA SHRINE An ancient Shinto shrine famous for its stunning vermillion-colored columns, it is approached along an atmospheric forest path lined with hundreds of stone lanterns.
Museums
///export.hairpin.pound • 10-6 Noboriojicho, Nara City • TEL: 0742-23-3968 • pref.nara.jp/11842.htm
KYOTO
///lighten.cult.self • 406-1 Zoshicho, Nara • 0742-22-5511 • todaiji.or.jp
A huge ancient park and the focal point for any visit to Nara. Droves of wild deer will follow you around as you explore the park’s stunning temples, gardens, and museums, hoping you may feed them special deer crackers. ///rinses.safest.select • TEL: 0742-22-0375 • nara-park.com
TODAI-JI This temple with its 15m-high Buddha is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and draws a steady stream of visitors.
Situated on Rokko Island, this is Japan’s first museum dedicated to the world of fashion. It houses a large public library on its 3rd floor. ///beeline.betrayal.marked • 2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward • TEL: 078-858-0050 • fashionmuseum.or.jp
KOBE ANPANMAN CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALL Great for young kids, this is a fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland district, dedicated to the surreal world of popular Japanese children’s character Anpanman. ///develops.mixer.credited • 1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo Ward • TEL: 078-341-8855 • kobe-anpanman.jp
Monuments and Landmarks
HIMEJI CASTLE Perched upon a hill where its towers can be seen for miles, this picturesque fortress is nicknamed Shirasagi-jo (“White Heron Castle”) because of its brilliant, white exterior and unique tower structuring. ///dash.flashing.brick • 68 Honmachi, Himeji City • TEL: 079-285-1146 • city. himeji.lg.jp
NUNOBIKI HERB GARDENS & ROPEWAY Enjoy a stunning ropeway ride before exploring the charming herb gardens and greenhouse exhibits at the top of Mt. Rokko. This is a great place for kids to let off some steam or for a romantic twilight date. ///huddle.stubble.nasal • 1-4-3 Kitanocho, Chuo Ward • TEL: 078-271-1160 • kobeherb. com
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What’s On Art & Exhibitions OSAKA
KYOTO
KYOTO
SHIRO MATSUI: FAR TOO CLOSE
TIMELESS MUCHA: MUCHA TO MANGA – THE MAGIC OF LINE
SHINTO DEITIES AND GUARDIAN LIONS AND LION-DOGS
The Museum of Kyoto • Until Jan 13 Timeless Mucha, currently on tour around Japan, is an exhibition presenting some 250 works of gorgeous and colorful art nouveau paintings. It is both a reappraisal of Alphonse Mucha’s body of work and a showcase of the artists who were inspired by his pioneering style, including international psychedelic artists of the 1960s and 70s and Japanese manga artists from the 1970s to today. Posters, drawings, and illustrations are displayed alongside artifacts from Mucha’s art collection, including Japanese prints and interpretations of his work in fin-de-siècle Japan. The exhibition also features a partnership with Hotel Nikko Princess Kyoto where you can buy cocktails themed after Mucha’s works.
Kyoto National Museum • Jan 2 to Mar 22 One of the most prominent symbols of the Japanese Shinto shrine are the guardian lions that loom over the main shrine gates. These guardians, which frequently resemble canines, protect these holy sites. Shinto is an ancient animistic religion that worships many gods also known as kami. Indigenous kami are sometimes depicted as humans, such as cultured aristocrats or armor-clad warriors. It is the shrines dedicated to these humanoid deities that the guard lions typically watch over. This exhibition features rare statues of Shinto deities as well as their protective beasts, giving visitors a unique opportunity to view sacred symbols that differ from the Buddhist icons that also represent Japan.
OPEN: 10am–6pm (until 7:30pm Fridays) • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Karasuma Oike Station • TEL: 075-222-0888 • bunpaku.or.jp
OPEN: Tue–Thu, Sun, March 6, 7, 13, 14: 9:30am–5pm; Fri & Sat (except March 6, 7, 13, 14): 9:30am–8pm • ADMISSION: ¥520 • ACCESS: 7-min walk from Shichijo Station • TEL: 075-525-2473 • kyohaku.go.jp
ARTCOURT Gallery • Until Dec 21 New work from renowned Japanese sculptor Shiro Matsui is currently on display at ARTCOURT Gallery. Since 1983, Nara-born Matsui has wielded various materials— such as wood, copper, and stone—to craft intricate and interactive installations that have been showcased around the world. Matsui enjoys challenging people’s perceptions of how they move through space by building large-scale sculptures the public can walk through, most notably a series of giant balloonlike structures that fuse with the buildings they are installed in. Matsui’s current solo exhibition features new works, including Lag Behind / Lag Forward, a humorous interactive sculpture, and the large-scale installation Capital T, an eight-meterlong pipe that stretches through the gallery. OPEN: 11am–7pm (Sat till 5pm)
ニーノ・カルーソ《陶彫》 1968年頃, 京都国立近代美術館蔵
KYOTO
FORMS OF MEMORY AND SPACE: NINO CARUSO, GIANT OF CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN CERAMICS
• CLOSED: Sun, Mon, holidays • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: 15-min walk from Sakuranomiya Sta • TEL: 06-6354-5444 • artcourtgallery.com/ eng/exhibitions/11267
MOMAK • Jan 4 to Feb 16 Nino Caruso (1928–2017) dominated the field of Italian ceramics throughout the 20th century. His work dealt with themes like memory and mythology; he even experimented with ancient ceramic techniques. Much of his most famous work includes sculptures that evoked ancient civilizations and artifacts like weapons and sarcophagi. He later became known for pieces that combined ancient ceramic techniques with contemporary architectural designs. Caruso’s work eventually became highly regarded worldwide, including in Japan, where he studied Asian raku ware techniques for some time—yet, this is his first retrospective here. 92 of his most significant works will be featured in addition to documents such as original sketches. OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (Fri & Sat until 8pm) • CLOSED: Mondays • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Station • TEL: 075-761-4111 • momak.go.jp/English/exhibitionArchive/2019/435. html
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Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
OSAKA
CARAVAGGIO EXHIBITION Abeno Harukas Art Museum • Dec 26 to Feb 16 Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (1571–1610) was an Italian painter and formative influence of the 17th-century Baroque art movement. His dramatic oil paintings depict scenes where light and darkness intersect, and mainly feature religious themes and violent imagery. His realistic depictions of such episodes garnered him many followers. Contrary to his acclaimed legacy, however, he led a tumultuous and controversial life. Ten of his surviving works (including attributed works)—of which there are considered to be about 60—will be featured, as well as the Caravaggesque works of painters influenced by him. Some are being shown in Japan for the first time. OPEN: Tue–Fri 10am–8pm, Sat, Sun & Mon 10am–6pm; CLOSED:
Dec 31 (Tue), Jan 1 (Wed), Jan 14 (Tue) • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • ACCESS: Next to Tennoji & Osaka Abenobashi Stations • TEL: 06-4399-9050 • aham.jp/exhibition/future/caravaggio
《法悦のマグダラのマリア》1606年 油彩／カンヴァス 個人蔵
What’s On Art & Exhibitions
See Kansaifinder.com for more
OSAKA
IMPOSSIBLE ARCHITECTURE – THE ARCHITECTS’ DREAMS
ヤーコフ・チェルニホフ 書籍『建築ファンタジー 101 のカラー・コンポジション、101 の建築 小図』 より 挿図 1933 年 個人蔵
HYOGO
ティーカップ＆ソーサー、 ミントン、1820年代、Cha Tea 紅茶教室蔵
THE WORLD OF TOMINO YOSHIYUKI: A RETROSPECTIVE OF LEGENDARY ANIME DIRECTOR
HYOGO
AFTERNOON TEA Kobe Fashion Museum • Until Jan 19 Have you ever wanted to drink and dine like the aristocrats of yore? “Afternoon tea” is a famous worldwide cultural phenomenon that originated in the UK. This exhibition covers everything about the storied tradition, from the history of tea itself to the beginning of “afternoon tea” and how this activity spread to the masses. In addition to introducing the world of tea, other visually stunning items such as elegant dresses of the 1800s and 1900s will be on display. The exhibition consists of about 300 teas and looks in total, as well as tea utensils such as tea sets and silverware, prints and books related to tea, and more. OPEN: 10am–6pm; Closed Mondays • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: From JR Sumiyoshi or Hanshin Uozaki, take the Rokko Liner to Island Center Station • TEL: 078-858-0050 • fashionmuseum. or.jp
Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art • Until Dec 22 Tomino Yoshiyuki (b. 1941) is a director whose works have made a significant impact on animation both in Japan and around the world. He began his career as one of the directors of the television version of the pioneering Astro Boy manga. Since then, he’s worked on many famous TV series and original works, including serving as a director for several of the famous Gundam shows, such as Mobile Suit Gundam. Though his most notable work involves directing mecha anime (cartoons featuring giant mechanical robots), Tomino has also acted as an animator, songwriter, screenwriter, and novelist. This comprehensive retrospective showcases storyboards drawn by Tomino, illustrations by animators who worked with him, and other works related to his productions. OPEN: 10am–6pm (Entry until 5:30) *Friday & Saturday during Special Exhibitions 10am–8pm • CLOSED: Mondays (Tue if Mon is National holiday) • ADMISSION: ¥500 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Nada Station • TEL: 078-262-0901 • www.mbs.jp/tominoexhibition
HYOGO
TAMBA NOW+ 2020 The Museum of Ceramic Art, Hyogo • Jan 2 to Feb 16 Tamba ware is a type of Japanese pottery established during the Heian era (late 12th century) and produced in the cities of Sasayama and Tachikui in Kansai’s Hyogo Prefecture. The style tends to be featured on storage jars and vases but is most notable for its sake bottle designs. In 2015, the Hyogo Ceramics Museum held the first themed exhibition called TAMBA NOW+ to commemorate the 10th anniversary of its opening. 2020 welcomes the museum’s 15th anniversary and the second part of the exhibition, which will introduce a wide range of Tamba ceramics through the works of artists currently active in Tamba Sasayama City. OPEN: 10am–6pm every day except Mon • ADMISSION: ¥600 • ACCESS: From Aino Station a 15-minute ride on the bus bound for Kiyomizudera. Get off at the “Museum of Ceramic Art” stop. • TEL: 079-597-3961 • mcart.jp/ global/en/exhibition
The National Museum of Art, Osaka • Jan 7 to Mar 15 Most people are familiar with the great architectural marvels of the world—the Great Wall of China, the Sistine Chapel, Todaiji Temple—but what of grand construction projects that were planned but never realized? This exhibition features blueprints, mockups, photographs, and computer models to introduce a collection of 20th-century engineering projects that were never built. Whether due to complex political disputes, technical problems, or a lack of proper planning, these designs never quite made it off the ground. These inspiring and sometimes quirky ideas will be on display, many for the first time. About 40 architects and artists from Japan (such as Tadao Ando and Makoto Aida) and abroad will be featured. OPEN: 10am-5pm (last admission 4:30pm), Fri. and Sat. until 8pm (last admission 7:30pm) • CLOSED: Mon (except Jan 13, Feb 24) and Jan 14, Feb 25 • ADMISSION: ¥900 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Watanabebashi Station • TEL: 06-6447-4680 • www.nmao.go.jp/en/ exhibition/2019/iarch.html
Need more Art? See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
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What’s On Live Music OSAKA
GACHARIC SPIN Dec 29 Japanese band Gacharic Spin takes in heavy rock, pop, rap, and alternative rock, and earlier this year released 10 Best in three different formats—album, photo, and DVD. They call themselves “a six-piece entertainment girl band.” And although Gacharic Spin is using image and branding in a big way to gain fans, a selection of videos on their YouTube channel shows the prowess of the band members with their instruments. They are clearly very skilled musicians to be taken seriously. The band celebrates its 10-year anniversary and has recently performed beyond Japanese shores live at Anime Matsuri in Texas, at Japan Expo in
Rock & Pop ALEX JOHNSON Dec 7 US pop-rock guitarist plus Japanese bands Frontwords & Loving Love Pop/indie/rock • Pop Pizza • 7:30pm • ¥1,000 • TEL: poppizzakyoto@gmail. com
EARTHSHAKER Dec 13 Japanese metal band formed in Tokyo in 1978 Metal • Taku Taku • 7pm • ¥6,500/¥7,000 • TEL: 075-351-1321
NONA REEVES
France, and also in South Korea. Together with vocalist Fuki from Light Bringer, members of Gacharic Spin are also in the band Doll$Boxx, which formed in 2012. If that’s not enough, they are also involved in a band called Metallic Spin where they cover classic heavy metal songs, currently with Saber Tiger vocalist Takenori Shimoyama. Rock • Big Cat, Osaka • 5pm • ¥4,500 • TEL: 0570-200-888
KREVA
D_DRIVE
Dec 17 Japanese rapper Takashi Hatakeyama
Dec 27 Japanese heavy-rock band
Rap • Namba Hatch • 6:30pm • ¥7,908 • TEL: 0570-200-888
DRAGONASH
Rock • Chicken George • 7pm • ¥3,500/¥4,000 • TEL: 078-332-0146
GACHARIC SPIN
Dec 20 Japanese rock-rap group
Dec 29 Japanese female rock band since 2009
Rock rap • Zepp Osaka Bayside • 7pm • ¥6,500 • TEL: 06-6882-1224
Rock • Big Cat • 5pm • ¥4,500 • TEL: 0570-200-888
FLOW
THE ALFEE
Dec 22 Popular Japanese rock band with guests Novelbright
Dec 29 Popular Japanese rock-pop band
Rock • Varit • 5pm • ¥4,968/¥5,060 • TEL: 06-6341-3525
Rock pop • Osaka jo Hall • 5pm • ¥7,700 • TEL: 06-6341-3525
Dec 14 Japanese pop-rock trio founded 1995
MOSHIMO
PUSHIM
Dec 23 Japanese pop-rock band
Pop rock • Janus • 5pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 06-6882-1224
Pop rock • Shangri-La • 7pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 06-6357-4400
Dec 30 & 31 Reggae-pop-R&B vocalist from Osaka
SCOOBIE DO
A HUNDRED BIRDS ORCHESTRA
Dec 15 Japanese funk four-piece band Funk • Janus • 6:30pm • ¥3,900 • TEL: 06-6357-3666
LEGO BIG MORL Dec 16 Four-piece rock band from Osaka Rock • Shangri-La • 7pm • ¥3,500 • TEL: 06-6343-8601
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Dec 24 Dance music orchestra formed in Osaka in 1986 Dance & orchestra • Namba Hatch • 8pm • ¥5,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
ORIGINAL LOVE Dec 24 Japanese singer Takao Tajima Pop rock • Club Quattro • 7pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 06-6311-8111
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
Reggae pop • Billboard Live OSAKA • 30th-6:30pm & 9:30pm/31st-7:30pm & 10:30pm • ¥7,900/¥8,900 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
FLUMPOOL Dec 30 Osaka rock band formed 2007 Rock • Osaka Jo Hall • 5:30pm • ¥7,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888
KOBE ROCKNROLL COLLECTION 2020 Jan 5
KYOTO
NEWSPEAK Jan 17 Newspeak is a new outfit on the Japanese music scene. Formed two years ago in Tokyo—consisting of the four members Rei, Ryoya, Yohey, and Steven— the band released a debut full-length album No Man’s Empire in November. Since the group’s inception, they have been busy with two sold-out EPs and a string of festival appearances including Summer Sonic 2017 and 2018. With catchy pop-rock tunes and vocals sung in English, it’s clear that the band is looking to appeal to a global audience, and there is an abundance of influences evident in their music to draw in fans from different genres. Their high level of musicianship is also likely to allow the group some real longevity. For a taster of what to expect, take a listen to the single Eyes Wide Bright from the new album. Pop rock • Muse, Kyoto • 7:00pm • ¥3,500 • TEL: 075-223-0389
What’s On Live Music
See Kansaifinder.com for more OSAKA
SCOOBIE DO Dec 15 Scoobie Do, the Japanese funkpop band (not to be confused with Scoobie Doo, the animated mystery sleuth dog), was formed in 1995 by two childhood friends, vocalist Koyama Shuu and guitarist Matsuki Taijirou. Between then and 1999, when they were picked up by record label KOGA Records, they became a four-piece and it wasn’t long before they were playing their first ‘one-man’ shows. Named as “the coolest band in Japan” by online magazine Sync Music Japan, Scoobie Do released
Featuring over 20 bands inc. Neatbeats, The Tomboys, Sullivans Fan Club, The 50 Kaintenz RockVarit • 1:30pm • ¥3,800 • TEL: 078392-6655
L’ARC-EN-CIEL Jan 9, 10, 12, 13 Japanese visual-kei rock band Rock • Osaka Jo Hall • 9th-10th 6:30pm/12th-13th 4pm • ¥11,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888
MAXI PRIEST Jan 10 English Reggae R&B vocalist Max Elliott Reggae • Billboard Live OSAKA • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥8,800/¥9,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
A FLOOD OF CIRCLE Jan 11
their 14th album Beautiful Days in July, which marks the 20-year anniversary since the first single, Sunset Melody. They come to Osaka to play the penultimate show of their busy autumn live schedule, which has meant 23 performances in under three months, quite an accomplishment for any band. Scoobie Do live is a high-energy, exciting experience, definitely not a gig to miss. Pop funk • Janus, Osaka • 6:30pm • ¥3,900 • TEL: 06-6357-3666
Japanese experimental-rock four-piece band
Pop rock • Muse • 7pm • ¥3,500 • TEL: 075-223-0389
Experimental rock • Club Quattro • 6pm • ¥3,900 • TEL: 06-6357-3666
QUEEN & ADAM LAMBERT
RAY PARKER JR. & RAYDIO Jan 13 American funk-R&B band Funk • Billboard Live OSAKA • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥10,000/¥11,000 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
BELINDA CARLISLE
Jan 28 Classic British rock band Rock • Kyocera Dome • 7pm • ¥12,000/¥50,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888
THE MUGGLES Every Fri & Sat Osaka-based jamming band, classic rock, dynamic rock n roll
Jan 15 American ex-Go-Go’s pop vocalist
Group sounds • Woodstock Cafe • Entrance Free (¥2,000 for 2 drinks + snack) • TEL: 0797-34-1044
Pop • Billboard Live OSAKA • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥8,900/¥9,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
THE HILLANDON
NEWSPEAK Jan 17 Rock band formed in Tokyo in 2017
Dec 16 Japanese blues four piece Blues • Taku Taku • 7pm • ¥2,500/¥3,000 • TEL: 075-351-1321
Japanese alto saxophonist Jazz • Mister Kelly’s • 7:30pm/9pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 06-6342-5821
BLACK BOTTOM BRASS BAND Dec 29 & 30 Seven-piece high-energy brass band Funk brass • Chicken George 6:30pm • ¥3,500/¥4,000 • TEL: 078-332-0146
SOULBLEED Jan 10 Ft. Ko Shimizu and Rikiya Higashihara of naniwa Exp. Jazz • Mister Kelly’s • 7:30pm/9pm • ¥4,500/¥4,800 • TEL: 06-6342-5821
THE NEW MASTERSOUNDS Jan 31 Featuring vocalist Lamar Williams Jr. Jazz Fusion • Shangri-La • 8pm • ¥6,800 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
SAORI YANO Dec 16
OSAKA
PUSHIM Dec 30 & 31 PUSHIM, born Paku Pushin in 1975, is a Zainichi Korean reggae R&B artist hailing from Osaka. After being signed to Sony Music Japan, she recorded and released her first single Brand New Day in June 1999 to much critical acclaim. This was quickly followed in September of the same year by her second single Strong Woman, which was also a commercial success. The next year saw the release of her debut album Say Greetings. Twenty years on and the singer has been performing anniversary live shows this year which will finish with two dates in Osaka at Billboard Live OSAKA for the 2019/2020 countdown. Pushim also released an anniversary album this year titled immature. Reggae/R&B • Billboard Live OSAKA • 30th-6:30pm & 9:30pm/31st-7:30pm & 10:30pm • ¥7,900/¥8,900 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
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What’s On Clubs & Nightlife Dec OSAKA
Dec 7
JOULE 1000 Dream 15th Anniversary (Psychedelic Trance) DJS: 1000 DREAM, DISC JUNKEY, O-MAN, TEAM TOYONAKA + MORE •
BAR CAULIFLOWER Aliens (Techno) ACTS: OOSHIMA SHIGERU, DNT, ICHIROTA, NAGA, SAKI + MORE • OPEN: 11:59pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6484-3110 • barcauliflower.com
OSAKA
Dec 7
CIRCUS Ross From Friends Live Japan Tour Osaka (House) ACTS: ROSS FROM FRIENDS + MORE
• OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D (ADV) ¥3,100/1D) • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com OSAKA
Dec 7
JOULE Sushi presents Noizu Japan Tour in Osaka (Tech House/House) DJS: NOIZU, JAXX DA FISHWORKS
OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule. com
KYOTO
Dec 7
METRO Licaxxx in Kyoto (Techno)
DJS: FRANKIE $, MAYDAY, STRETCH DCM, PAKIN, SATINKO, SAKANA + MORE • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:
¥2,000/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6245-0889 • club-stomp.com/ OSAKA
KYOTO
ACTS: SHENZ A.K.A. HISHIRYO,
Dec 7
OCTAVE Tone Float (Techno) DJS: SHINKICHI, KAZUMA, UNAGI+ MORE • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600 • ACCESS: Kyoto Kawaramachi Stn • TEL: 075-2317334 • octavekyoto.space
OSAKA
Dec 7
DJ: GARETH EMERY, NEW KID’N PLAY, RAY, SHINJI, SILVER FOX + MORE
• OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com
DJS: HARUNA • OPEN: 8pm–12am • ADMISSION: ¥1,100/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6567-9852 • socorefactory. com
KYOTO
Dec 12
METRO Ram Jam Reggae (Reggae) ACTS: BAGUS!, SISTER YUUMI, TAMA-I,
Dec 7 Salon de Rei 13th Anniversary Psychedelic 4beat Party feat. Shenz a.k.a. Hishiryo in Japan (Psychedelic Trance/ Beat)
PICCADILLY UMEDA
Dec 7
Solid feat. Frankie $, Mayday & Stretch DCM from UK (Grime)
SHINTARO FUJITA + MORE • OPEN: 10am • ADMISSION: ¥3,300/1D (ADV: ¥2,800/1D, Foreigners & STUDENTS: ¥2,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
New Ôrder feat. Gareth Emery (Trance/EDM)
OSAKA
Rejoice (House)
STOMP
TRIANGLE
ADMISSION: ¥3,000 (ADV:¥2,500) •
• TEL: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule. com
SOCORE FACTORY
DJS: LICAXXX, TOSHIKI, STONES TARO,
+ MORE • OPEN: 2pm–8pm • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn
OSAKA
Dec 7
NINGEN UCHUU, DRESS, BAIKAMO, LOE, SAKI + MORE • OPEN: 11:50pm
• ADMISSION: ¥3,000 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6212-2264 • https://iflyer.tv/ en/triangle OSAKA
CHIEMIX + MORE • OPEN: 9pm–2am • ADMISSION: ¥1,600/1D • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
OSAKA
Dec 13
CIRCUS Full House feat. Wantigga (Electro) ACTS: WANTIGGA + MORE • OPEN:
11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com OSAKA
Dec 8
PICCADILLY UMEDA Lucas & Steve Japan Tour in Osaka - Day Party (EDM)
Reiten presents Ganchiku Project at Kamigamo Shrine- Multi Sound Ambient Live Performances (Ambient) LIVE: MARK FELL, RIAN TREANOR, KOHEI MATSUNAGA +MORE • OPEN: 2pm–8pm • ADMISSION: ¥5,000 (ADV: ¥4,500) • ACCESS: Kyoto Subway Karasuma Line Kitayama Stn • TEL: 075-781-0011 • kamigamojinja.jp
OSAKA
Dec 14
DAPHNIA Fei Cui #03 (Techno/ House) DJS: OOSHIMA SHIGERU, AVV, KOJI SAWAMURA, STONES TARO +MORE • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500
• ACCESS: Kitakagaya Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubdaphnia.com OSAKA
Dec 14
PICCADILLY UMEDA
DAPHNIA
New Ôrder feat. Matt Nash (Progressive House/EDM)
+ MORE • OPEN: 3pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,500/1D (ADV:
DJS: MARK FELL, RIAN TREANOR, NHK
¥4,000/1D) • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-68095895 • clubpiccadilly.com
YX KOYXEN, MANABE +MORE • OPEN: 7pm–11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,500 • ACCESS: Kitakagaya Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubdaphnia.com
OSAKA
KAMIGAMO SHRINE (WORLD HERITAGE)
Dec 13 Reiten presents Mark Fell, Rian Treanor and NHK yx Koyxen (Techno/ Electronic)
DJ: LUCAS & STEVE, TAKU-HERO
KYOTO
Dec 14
Dec 10
DJ: MATT NASH, THA G-SMOKE, RAY, SHINJI, SILVER FOX + MORE • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly. com
OSAKA
Dec 14
LUCAS & STEVE OSAKA
Dec 8
PICCADILLY UMEDA Lucas & Steve Japan Tour in Osaka - Day Party (EDM) Piccadilly will host some stellar EDM and house artists this December. Gareth Emery on the 7th, Matt Nash on the 14th, and Retro Vision on the 28th, but if you can’t wait until dark to start dancing, Lucas and Steve on the 8th is the party for you. This all-ages show starts at 3pm. Lucas and Steve are a Dutch house duo who have been making music together since 2010. Since their debut on Spinnin’ Deep in 2014, the duo has become one of the most popular acts to release on the label. They have dropped a steady stream of singles and collaborations with many of the leading house and EDM artists from the Netherlands, which have received international acclaim. If you are looking for a warm atmosphere and hot beats as the weather starts to get chilly, don’t miss Lucas and Steve. DJS: LUCAS & STEVE, TAKU-HERO + MORE • OPEN: 3pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,500/1D (ADV: ¥4,000/1D) • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com
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Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
What’s On Clubs & Nightlife
See Kansaifinder.com for more SINGH’S KITCHEN Puzzle (Psychedelic Trance) DJS: KENYA, KUROBEE, MAFI, MIO, PIERO, YOSHIKI, CIAO + MORE • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000 • ACCESS: Namba Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6632-4433 • singh-kitchen. com
KYOTO
Dec 16
METRO Sequence. (Electro/ Techno/House) ACTS: CEEESTEE, HISASHI AOCHI, TAKU.F, NARU + MORE • OPEN:
9:30pm–4am • ADMISSION: ¥2,100/1D • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-7522787 • metro.ne.jp OSAKA
Dec 20
CIRCUS Chaos (House) DJS: FUMIYA TANAKA, SPRINKLES + MORE • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D (ADV: ¥3,100/1D) • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com
OSAKA
Dec 20
GHOST Loyal(Open Format) TBA • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
TBA • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com OSAKA
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6532-9385 • exodus728.com OSAKA
Dec 21
GHOST En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format) TBA • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
TBA • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
OSAKA
METRO Since 2011 Bong Bros Record presents Born Free vol.26 (Alternative Hip Hop) ACTS: OBRIGARRD, RACK & JACKI G,
Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp OSAKA
Dec 28
DJS: NOBU • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
BONZO, HYBRID BROTHERS, RACY,
OSAKA
GAJIROH, DAN, IIDA + MORE • OPEN:
Dec 28
10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,100/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-7522787 • metro.ne.jp OSAKA
GHOST
Dec 28
LOVE SOUND, MYSTAR + MORE • OPEN: 5pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,500/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
KYOTO
Dec 23
DJ: RETRO VISION + MORE • OPEN: 4pm–10pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com
OSAKA
SEKITOVA + MORE • OPEN: 9pm–1am • ADMISSION: ¥4,000/1D (ADV: ¥3,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-7522787 • metro.ne.jp
Winter presents No Gods, No Masters (Experimental/Techno)
GHOST
EXODUS
Loyal(Open Format)
Onosim 4th Anniversary feat. Ingrained Instincts (Neo Psychedelic Trance)
TBA • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
GACKY, SHIVA, LAZZZY, KAZYA,
KYOTO
SENOH + MORE • OPEN: 9:30pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,500 • ACCESS:
Dec 27
NAMURA ZOSEN ATOCHI The Star Festival 2019 (Techno/Electro) ACTS: TBA • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Kitakagaya Subway Stn • TEL: 06-4702-7085 • namura.cc
OSAKA
Dec 30
NOON+CAFE Niagara feat. Force of Nature (House)
OSAKA
Dec 31
SUN HALL Ring + Wols Count Down 2020 New Year Party (Techno) DJS: REE.K, KIHIRA NAOKI, TAKAAKI ITOH, LOE, KAZUMA, JUNICHI KUWATA + MORE • OPEN: 8pm • ADMISSION:
¥3,500 (ADV: ¥2,500, FOREIGNERS: ¥2,000) • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6213-7077 • sunhall.jp
RICHIE HAWTIN
PICCADILLY UMEDA TCPT presents Retro Vision Japan Tour in Osaka - Day Party (Future House/EDM)
DJS: FLOATING POINTS, METOME,
Dec 27
Dec 30
QUESTA, MARCO, ITOKEN + MORE
• OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,100/1D • ACCESS: Umeda Stn, Nakazakicho Stn • TEL: 06-63734919 • noon-cafe.com
OSAKA
Dec 28
OSAKA
OSAKA
DJS: FORCE OF NATURE, AKIHIRO,
GHOST
Anna Morinaga 10th Anniversary Party (Reggae/Hip Hop/R&B) DJS: BURN DOWN, SHOWGA, MAKE
Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format) TBA • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
Dec 22
Dec 21
ACTS: INGRAINED INSTINCTS, HANABI,
ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Keihan
CIRCUS
CIRCUS
• ADMISSION: ¥4,100/1D (ADV: ¥3,600/1D) • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
BARIUM + MORE • OPEN: 10pm •
DJ Nobu All Night Long (Techno)
METRO
YUKIMATSU + MORE • OPEN: 11pm
KOICHI, BODIL, B FROM OUTATBERO,
KYOTO
Floating Points Japan Tour 2019 (Electronic)
ACTS: THA BLUE HERB, YOSUKE
ACTS: RYOMA SASAKI, OUCHI-S,
Dec 21
Dec 21 Tha Blue Herb (Alternative Hip Hop)
METRO Connected UndergroundYear End Techno Night (Techno/Deep Tech)
STOMP
DJS: KEIHIN, ORHYTHMO, OOSHIMA SHIGERU, SPINNUTS + MORE • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6245-0889 • clubstomp.com/
OSAKA
Dec 29
GHOST Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae) TBA • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
TBA • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi
OSAKA
Dec 14
CIRCUS Plus 8 Club Tour (Techno) He’s Back! For techno fans, Richie Hawtin needs no introduction. He has been a leading figure in the development of minimal techno. Whether releasing under his real name or his alias Plastikman, he has consistently released music which has inspired and influenced so many producers in the techno scene. Born in England, Hawtin’s family moved to a suburb of Winsor, Ontario in Canada when he was nine. Luckily for the music world, Winsor is across the border from Detroit, so Hawtin was perfectly situated to be exposed to the first wave of techno in the 1980s. In 1989, he released his first record under the name F.U.S.E. and the rest is history. He has created music for the Olympics opening ceremony, collaborated with the sculptor Anish Kapoor, won the Best Techno DJ Award three times, and even produced his own sake in collaboration with Kyoto’s Sookuu Sake Company. He manages to do all that while continuing to tour the world and produce amazing new music. We are so excited to have him back in Osaka. DJS: RICHIE HAWTIN, YUADA + MORE • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,000 (ADV: ¥3,500) • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
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Food & Drink
OSAKA SAPPORO SOUP CURRY JACK One of Osaka’s most popular Uber Eats choices, this recent newcomer serves up excellent Sapporo-style soup curry—chicken and vegetables (or vegetables only) in a delicious dashi-infused spicy broth, served with saffron rice. Choose from the basic ‘original’ soup, the special prawn soup stock, or opt to have it with added coconut milk for a milder curry. If ramping up the spice is your thing, then you are in luck with the option to turn it all the way up to ‘gekikara’—insanely hot! JAPANESE
DANIEL LEE
3-8-9 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6710-9654
Osaka SHINSAIBASHI / NAMBA URANAMBA TORAMEYOKOCHO JAPANESE Roam east of Namba Station into Ura-Namba and look for the vermillion torii marking the entrance to Torame Yokocho. Here you’ll find a delicious repertoire of Osaka favorites like okonomiyaki and kushikatsu alongside sushi, sashimi, yakiniku, and more all in the same complex. 2-3-15 Sennichimae, Chuo-ku, Osaka
GAKUYA BURGER AMERICAN Yes, another hipster Osaka burger joint, but this one offers exclusively pork patties – an unusual take on an otherwise familiar theme. The interior has a woody, homemade vibe (in true hipster fashion), and the burgers are mouth-wateringly good, with a good range of options.
Asia but the cuisine on the menu is distinctly Hokkaido-esque. Spicy bowls of soupy curry with chunks of seared meat and vegetables with rice on the side await you. 7-12-5 Kanda, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6657-7196
BOKKAKEYA JAPANESE Rustic noodle shop in Minami-semba serving delicious hand-cut buckwheat soba noodles in a delicate Kansaistyle broth. During the evenings, the menu is expanded to include izakaya fare and a great selection of local sake. Nishi-ku, Shinmachi 1-2-13 1F • Tel 066535-2483 • soba-bokkakeya.com
LA GOLOSETTA
WAD
PIZZERIA DA TIGRE
This cafe and art gallery serves traditional Japanese green tea in beautiful ceramic dishes.
A down-to-earth pizzeria serving up a tasty range of authentic, sensibly priced Napoli-style pizzas. Pizzas are ordered via a ramen shop-style ticket machine. Sit at their u-shaped counter or takeaway.
CAFE
4-9-3 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4708-3616 • wad-cafe.com
LA FINESTRA Spacious open-plan restaurant offering pasta and other Italian dishes near Orix Theater. ITALIAN
1-33-8 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6606-9016
LA BELLE VIE Authentic yet creative french bistro-style dining and decadent desserts. FRENCH
PIZZERIA
2-17-17 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6534-6686
2-15-13 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka
2-8-13 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6264-1225 • lagolosetta.web. fc2.com
Sri Lankan-style curries in a cosy, no frills eatery in Minamisemba. Large colorful masks highlight its 2nd floor location.
COMPTOIR 15
TOFU SORANO
3-8-5 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4963-3746
Run by owner-chefsommelier Inoue-san, this small counter-style bistro offers authentic bistro style French cuisine and wines sourced directly from wineries in France. Book ahead. FRENCH
1 Chome-29-16 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • Tel: 06-4390-0005
Authentic Napoli-style pizzeria serving up delicious pizzas and appetizers from its small two-storey location in Minami-semba.
Enjoy creative tofu dishes and izakaya favorites in this sleek Japanese restaurant featuring a modern, minimalist interior. JAPANESE
4-5-6 Minami-kyuhojimachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6120-0644 • foodgate.net/ shop/sorano.html
ASIAN BAR RAMAI When walking into Abiko’s Asian Bar Ramai, you’ll feel like you’ve just stepped through a portal to South East JAPANESE
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CURRY DEKKAO ETHNIC
OSAKA CHAKAI CAFE Choose your favorite premium rokucha green tea and have it freshly ground for you at this stylish cafe serving green tea drinks and desserts in Minami-morimachi. 1F 2-1-25 Tenjinbashi, Kita-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6755-4789 • www.osakachakai.jp/eng
ITALIAN
1-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 066535-8624
KUUSHIN Choose from daily A or B set lunches or an evening course of creative chinese cuisine at one of the tastiest chinese restaurants in Osaka. CHINESE
Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-7729
TOKI NO HA Delicious bowls of noodles and freshly steamed dumplings are the main draw at this chinese tea emporium run by the same owner/chef as Kuushin. CHINESE
Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-6001
COCOWELL CAFE Healthy, coconut-laced lunch plates and desserts are the focus of this all-day dining eco-friendly cafe in Horie. JAPANESE
Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-13-21 • TEL: 06-65315572
BASE ISLAND KITCHEN This tiny counter-only restaurant serves up an eclectic mix of delicious tapas ranging from vegetarian and vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk Chicken! Open until 5pm daily. ETHNIC
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-16-27
Food & Drink
See Kansaifinder.com for more TABIJI KITCHEN
SAUCE BOSS
CAFE ABSINTHE
Choose your dish by its country of origin, in this comfortable restaurant that serves up everything from Vietnamese pho to English Shepherd’s Pie, depending on the day of the week.
Serving up mouthwatering chicken wings in a huge variety of flavors, with craft beer and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down.
Stylish Mediterranean restaurant and bar serving craft cocktails, and excellent food, including hummus, falafel and babaganoush.
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie, 1-5-13 • TEL: 06-71717938
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-2-27 • TEL: 06-65346635
ETHNIC
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-14-20 • TEL: 06-65678403
CRAFT BURGER AMERICAN Run by a friendly Aussie expat and his wife, Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which the patties, buns, and all their sauces are handmade with the freshest ingredients. Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-6 • TEL: 06-6556-6682
BISTRO NEW ORLEANS AMERICAN Authentic New Orleansstyle restaurant, serving up Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location. Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-15-10 • TEL: 06-65437071
AMERICAN
ETHNIC
HANA SAKE BAR
PAPRIKA SHOKUDO
With friendly Englishspeaking staff on hand to guide you, try a range of local sake and other Japanese spirits at this casual bar in the heart of Shinsaibashi.
Vegetarian/vegan restaurant serving creative meat-free dishes - so flavorsome you could swear you were eating meat sometimes!
BARS
1-8-4, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo-ku
JAPANESE
Shinmachi 1-9-9, Nishi-ku • TEL: 06-65999788
AN NGON
EL PANCHO
An Ngon certainly lives up to its name, meaning “it’s delicious” in Vietnamese. The cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other Vietnamese decorations and boasts an extensive menu.
Serving up authentic Mexican fare since 1978, El Pancho offers great value combo plates and a happy hour that runs from 11:30am–5pm daily!
ETHNIC
4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6282-4567
MEXICAN
Shinsaibashi Tower Bldg. 8F • TEL: 066241-0588
great food and international staff. Happy Hour until 8pm. Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-5-27 Koda Bldg. B1F • TEL: 06-6468-2220
SUSHI KAIBA Marrying a modern Japanese interior with authentic nigiri-zushi, Kaiba sets the standard for casual sushi dining. Choose from set courses or a la carte. JAPANESE
Kitahorie 1-15-22 • TEL: 06-6532-2918
THE SUITE Modeled after a 1920s New York hotel suite, this place is as suave as it gets and the perfect spot for some postdinner cocktails. Featuring live entertainment every weekend on its chandelier-lit stage area. WINE AND COCKTAILS
Chuo Ward, Nishishinsaibashi, 2-18-18 • TEL: 06-6282-7742
ZERRO Popular Shinsaibashi bar with live DJs every weekend and no cover charge. Great food, cocktails and international beers from 500 yen. BARS
ALI’S KITCHEN ETHNIC Halal-certified Pakistani and Arabic cuisine, with over 200 menu items, including their popular goat brain masala and signature biryani dishes.
Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2 • TEL: 06-6211-0439
OSAKA
B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4708-5745
UMEDA
TRATTORIA ALBERO
SATURDAYS NYC
On entering the stone-paved courtyard of Trattoria Albero you’d be forgiven for thinking you were actually in Italy. Opened in February 2016, this stylish Italian restaurant with its high ceilings, low lights, and rustic decor has quickly built a reputation for fine cooking. The owner is a master chef, having honed his craft in the finest establishments of Osaka. Originally trained in French cuisine, there is a delicacy in even the heartiest of the dishes on the menu. The handmade pasta is a highlight as are the decadent desserts. There is a kids’ corner indoors and also terrace seating for customers bringing pets. ITALIAN
MAÎTRE RENARD
Laid-back, spacious cafe cum boutique with a large island counter to recharge both your laptop and your senses. CAFES AND TEAROOMS
4-13-22 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4963-3711
Hatsune Bldg. 2F, 1-5-4 Dojima Kita-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6147-633
BEER BELLY
TAVOLA 36 Occupying the 36th floor of the Swissôtel in Namba, this upscale restaurant serves an excellent buffet lunch and offers some fantastic views over the city day or night. ITALIAN
2-2-30 Saiwaicho, Naniwa-ku • TEL: 06-6561-1684
Fine French cuisine with an Osaka twist in Dojima, created from organic local ingredients and served in stylish yet unpretentious surroundings. FRENCH
5-1-60 Namba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-66465125
MURPHY’S IRISH PUB
Osaka’s local award-winning brewery, Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in Higobashi. Serving seasonal brews as well as its regular lineup on tap, including its award winning stout and decent bar food. CRAFT BEER BARS
Nishi-ku, Tosabori 1-1-30 • TEL: 06-64410717
PIERRE
BARS Japan’s oldest Irish bar and proud to provide the cheapest full pint in Osaka, Guinness and Kilkenny direct from Ireland, and a comprehensive selection of whiskeys and spirits.
The InterContinental Osaka’s 20th floor Michelinstarred restaurant features a seasonal fine dining menu in sophisticated surroundings.
Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-Suji 1-5-2 2F • TEL: 06-6245-3757
3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku • TEL: 06-63745700
FRENCH
CELIA POLKINGHORNE
THE BLARNEY STONE Irish pub in the heart of Shinsaibashi with live bands, BARS
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Food & Drink
KYOTO SOU Nestled in a quiet nook of the bustling Gion quarter, the cosy-yet-elegant Sou offers high-quality gourmet steak and other teppanyaki delights. One of the most popular dishes is the Wagyu A5. (In Japan, only the highest-quality beef can attain the prestigious grade of A5.) The owner and head chef at Sou has mastered the art of cooking this sizzling Japanese delicacy. The restaurant has an extensive selection of wines and a team of knowledgeable sommeliers ready to advise on the best bottles. JAPANESE
TEPPANYAKI KAPPO SOU
Onishi-Bldg II 1F, 216-2 Nishinocho, Nawatedori Shimbashiagaru, Higashiyamaku • TEL: 050-3463-0627
OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE Australian-themed steakhouse chain, serving up juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood. AMERICAN
Kita-ku, Dojima 1-6-20 • TEL: 06-6457-7121
HARDROCK CAFE
weekly specials and full-plate pasta dinners. No smoking. Abeno-ku, Matsuzaki-cho 2-3-21 • TEL: 06-7850-1412
TIN’S HALL
AMERICAN International chain offering authentic American favorites – including its famous burgers and smokehouse sandwiches – and live music on the weekends.
A perennial favorite for many expats, serving good bar food and drinks. Look out for happy hour from 6–9pm where a beer and generously sized burger combo is just 1,000yen. Free live music on Saturday nights.
3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6120-5711
Tennoji Ward, Minamikawahoricho, 10−3 • TEL: 06-6773-5955
BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY (KITAHAMA)
DARUMA
CAFES AND TEAROOMS Great coffee and relaxing decor at this wonderful riverside location in Kitahama, overlooking the Central Public Hall. 2 Chome-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6125-5740
Osaka, Naniw-ku, Ebisucho-higashi 2-3-9 • TEL: 06-6645-7056
TENNOJI
ZUBORAYA
CASUAL KAPPOU IIDA
JAPANESE One of Shinsekai’s iconic restaurants. Look for the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair. Whatever form of blowfish you can imagine, Zuboraya has it at an affordable price.
Enjoy exquisite Japanese cuisine served in multiple courses at this nine-seater casual kappou restaurant. Reservations recommended. 1−1−1 Uehonmachi, Tennoji Ku, Osaka • Tel: 080-2423-4590
LEZZET CRAFTBEER & FOOD EXPERIENCE A craft beer bar with a great tap selection and extensive food menu, including CRAFT BEER BARS
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Kyoto
BARS
No frills, kushikatsu (deep-fried battered meat and vegetables on sticks) dining in front of Tsutenkaku Tower. Remember the golden rule when reaching for the sauce – no double dipping!
KAPPOU
5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji-ku • TEL: 06-6773-2225
JAPANESE
Naniwa-Ku, Ebisu-Higashi 2-5-5 • TEL: 06-6633-5529
AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARK ITALIAN Airy two-storey trattoria serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated Tenshiba park area. Good choice for families with children.
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
HONKE OWARIYA Located in an atmospheric old wooden building, Honke Owariya is one of Kyoto’s oldest and best soba restaurants. Down the street from the Imperial Palace, you’ll find this over 500-year-old two-story restaurant, which looks a lot like a traditional Japanese house, doubling as a confectionary and noodle shop. JAPANESE
322 Niomontsukinukecho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto
IN THE MOON ROOFTOP BAR Low-key music, tasteful lighting, and reasonable prices make this rooftop haven the ultimate location for an evening cocktail. 200 RF Kamogawa Bldg, Nakanocho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto • Tel: 075-708-6966
GOMACRO SALON VEGAN Gomacro is paradise for sesame fans. Everything on the menu—including drinks and desserts—is sesame-based. As well as being vegan, the focus is on healthy and seasonal food. 67-3 Shinmeicho, Nakagyo ward, Kyoto • 075-257-5096
SPICE CHAMBER
ETHNIC Counter-style curry restaurant serving up fiery Indian-style curries, accompanied with homemade pickles. 1F Fukui Bldg., 502 Hakurakuten-cho, Muromachi-dori, Ayanokoji-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku • 075-342-3813 • spicechamber.com
ROCK BAR ING A stalwart of the Kiyamachi bar scene since 1998, this small but cosy rock’n’roll bar promises good times, cheap beer and great music. BAR
288-201 Minami Kuruyamacho, Nishi Kiyamachidori Takoyakushi-Agaru, Nakagyo-Ku • Tel: 075-255-5087
BEER KOMACHI A small izakayastyle dining bar with seven taps of Japanese craft beer and a good sake menu to boot. Serves excellent food. CRAFT BEER BARS
444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-746-6152
KYOTO BEER LAB A cosy brewpub run by Kyoto’s own ChaBeer Brewing Company, offering some rather unusual beers, including its American Hopped Green Tea Pale Ale, infused with green tea grown in nearby Wazuka-cho. CRAFT BEER BARS
Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201 • TEL: 075-352-6666
MILTON’S KYOTO Cosy hole-in-the-wall 8-seater bar run by Englishspeaking local artist, Milton. BARS
Food & Drink
See Kansaifinder.com for more A huge choice of liquors to choose from, including a good range of rums and whiskies. Non smoking. Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F
UMENOHANA KARASUMA Tofu in all its forms and variations, coupled with seasonal vegetables and presented in a stunning fine dining setting. English menu available. JAPANESE
Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West 18 Bldg. B1F • TEL: 075-254-0566
KATSUKURA SANJO Grind your own sesame seeds at this stylish chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants. Great value set meals including all-you-can-eat rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the original store. JAPANESE
16, Ishibashicho, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075212-3581
KUSHIKURA Charcoal grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables dishes served in a beautiful
100-year-old traditional kyo-machiya house. 584 Hiiragi-cho Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075213-2211
FALAFEL GARDEN ETHNIC Laid-back Israeli cafe and restaurant near Demachiyanagi. Authentic falafel and other vegetarian-friendly options available. 15-2 Tanaka Kamiyanagicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-712-1856 • www. falafelgarden.com
NISHITOMIYA CROQUETTE SHOP Gourmet croquettes paired with wine and tasty appetizers served in a cozy bar; at wine barrels that double as tables or on stools at the counter. These special fusion croquettes are even available for takeout. FUSION RESTAURANTS
Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, Kawaramachi Matsubara Sagaru Uematsu-cho 735 • TEL: 075-202-9837
JAPANESE
Hyogo
1-8-8 Kitanagasadori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-391-0545
YIDAKI CAFE
Tiny bakery in Motomachi drawing crowds with its impressive range of freshly baked breads and sweet treats. Get there early.
BAKERY RIKI BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES
Organic vegan fare anywhere in Japan is a rarity, but head to this cosy second floor eatery in Motomachi and enjoy a delicious plant-based lunch plate or coconut curry. Their falafel pita bread sandwich also hits all the right notes. Just around the corner from the BAL building. VEGAN
3-3-6 2F Sannomiya-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-335-0520
MODERNARK PHARM CAFE A healthy lunch haven just 10 minutes’ walk from Sannomiya Station, this charming wood-furnished eatery serves up wholesome lunch sets like vegetarian curry rice, green salads with brown rice (genmai), and vegetable wraps for around ¥1,000. Great care is taken here to use organic, healthy, and local ingredients. VEGETARIAN
3-11-15 Kitanagasadori, Chuo Ward, Kobe
WIKIPEDIA/663HIGHLAND
Eagle Bldg B1F, 4−7−20 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 050-5285-7538
KITANO CLUB Perched on a hillside overlooking Kobe, this is one of the city’s most popular fine-dining restaurants, known for its sweeping views and exquisite French cuisine. Open for more than 50 years, the menu changes monthly, with typical dishes including foie gras, escargot, and meals featuring fresh fish, duck, lamb, or roast beef with seasonal vegetables as well as fine pastry and cake options for dessert. The restaurant has a stylish interior and the separate bar and lounge area is a cosy spot for a digestif, offering far-reaching views of Kobe in the valley below. FRENCH
1-5-7 Kitanocho, Chuo-ku • TEL: 078-222-5123
SONA RUPA INDIAN Upscale
authentic Indian dining with a warm spacious atmosphere, popular with Kobe expats. 2-2-9 Yamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-0252
HONG KONG SWEETS CAFE TIM MA MA CHINESE Delightfully retro interior and authentic Hong Kong-style chinese tea and desserts, served at tables labelled as Hong Kong metro stations. 3-1-16 Sannomiyacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-3530 • tim-ma-ma.com
BOND
DAIZUYA VEGETARIAN The variety of Daizuya’s soy-based offerings— including firm and soft tofu, regional varieties, and even tofu skin with avocado—is matched only by the range of condiment options. If you’re not fond of bean curd, see the à la carte menu for alternatives, such as grilled chicken, or shrimp and avocado salad.
HYOGO
2-7-4 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-392-8585
CAFE AGEHA A perfect pit stop after a morning exploring the Kitano area, Ageha serves healthy brown rice lunch sets and tempting fruit tarts from its spacious location near the top of Tor Road. JAPANESE
2-4-8 Nakayamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-321-2780
UNDERGROUND BAKERY Scones, brownies, Victoria sponge cakes - this little bakery is a homage to British baking, but sells out fast. BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES
5-1-1 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • ugbakery.com
BAAN THAI THAI Popular Thai restaurant tucked away near Ikuta-jinja shrine, that offers spicy Thai favorites in cosy surroundings.
A spacious, sleek open plan interior serving up quality pasta dishes and trattoria-style mains just in front of the Mosque in Kobe’s Kitano area. Their chocolate tart with mountainsansho is a real treat. ITALIAN
Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 3-3-5 • TEL: 078-252-0052
INDUSRAY ETHNIC Authentic southern-Indian home-cooked food, served from this small, cosy family-run restaurant in Motomachi. The lamb or chicken biryani comes highly recommended. Chuo-ku, Motomachi-dori 3-11-10 • TEL: 078-332-1660
TRITON CAFE Popular, stylish open-plan cafe on Kitano-zaka, serving up food all day, including bistro-style lunch plates and homemade desserts. CAFES & TEAROOMS
1-23-16 Nakayamatedori, Chuo-ku • TEL: 078-251-1886
Need more dining options? See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com
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Maps & Info
Welcome To Kansai Getting Around
Taxis
The Kansai area covers the prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. There is so much to explore, so you’ll need to prioritize your time wisely. Its main travel hubs are Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed rail networks, including the shinkansen (bullet train). On regular trains, you can travel between Osaka and Kyoto in about 45 mins, and between Kobe and Osaka in about 30 mins. If you are here on holiday, pick up a convenient travel pass, such as the Kansai Thu Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai One Pass (kansaionepass.com), to avoid having to negotiate the ticket machines. Use a website such as HyperDia (hyperdia.com) to check train times and platforms from your smartphone.
Fares start from ¥500. The drivers wearing white gloves and official hats tend to be the most courteous, but don’t expect English to be widely understood. Have your destination name and address on hand in Japanese. As of February 2019, taxis can now be ordered using the Uber app.
Trains and Subways There is an excellent rail network connecting all corners of Kansai. As well as JR (Japan Rail), there are numerous private railway companies servicing the area, including Keihan (Osaka/ Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/ Nagoya). Each line operates several types of train. For the fastest trains, look for the Limited Express service trains. Be aware that Local trains stop at every station on the line, so only take them if no other type of train stops at your station. Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto and are an extremely efficient way to get around the cities. Tip: Pick up a Railway Network map from a major station or Tourist Information Center.
Airport Transfers To/from downtown Osaka, the most convenient option is the Nankai Rapi:t Express service (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, take the JR Airport Express HARUKA service (75 mins).
OSAKA
ATMs and Credit Cards
Hotels and Guesthouses
If you’re using Visa, you will be able to withdraw cash at most bank or convenience-store ATMs. If you’re using Mastercard, your best bet for withdrawing money is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other ATMs in Kansai do not accept Mastercard. It is not common to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards in Japan, even for expensive purchases. Many shops and restaurants do not offer this service, so be sure to carry plenty of cash with you.
Conrad Osaka, Hyatt Regency, Nikko Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Ritz Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka, InterContinental Hotel Osaka
Wi-Fi Getting connected in Kansai can be tricky. Renting a smartphone or SIM card at the airport is the safest option, to connect to the internet over a 3G or 4G network. In Osaka, you can access the Osaka Free Wi-Fi service at train and subway stations, stores and facilities throughout the prefecture.
Accidents and Emergencies Ambulance/Fire service: Tel. 119 Police: Tel. 110
Buses For out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.
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GET KANSAI SCENE Kansai Scene is available from the following major outlets in the Kansai region:
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
Tourist Information Centers Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Osaka), Hankyu Tourist Center Umeda, Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Namba), Kansai Tourist Information Center (KIX), Kansai Tourist Information Center (Shinsaibashi), Nankai Information Center (Namba) Shops Kinokuniya Bookstore Umeda, Kinokuniya Honmachi, Tower Records Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe
KYOTO
Hotels and Guesthouses Royal Hotel, Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Nikko Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kyoto Tourist Information Center, Kansai Tourist Information Center Kyoto, Kyoto International Community House Shops Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, GEAR KOBE
Hotels and Guesthouses Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe Portopia Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kobe International Community Center, Hyogo International Plaza Shops Junkudo Nishinomiya, Junkudo Sannomiya, Kinokuniya Kobe
Maps & Info
See Kansaifinder.com for more
Post Office
Umeda Sky Building
Shangrila
Club Azul
Hub
Hankyu Tourist Center
Yodobashi Camera
D
ho
i-c
ak
az ak
N
Club Noon Noon+Cafe
Hankyu Umeda Sta.
New Hankyu Osaka Hotel
Grand Front Osaka / Knowledge Capital
German Consulate 35F
Westin Hotel
1
InterContinental Osaka Hotel
Cine Libre Umeda
Loft C Maruzen & Junkudo
Theater Umeda
Osaka Loop Line Kitano Hosp.
i or
d
a-
Kinokuniya H&M
iy
M
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im oj ak
Kids Plaza Osaka 1
Toho umeda Annex TRAD Hotel Hep 5 Kinki Umekita Plaza Hep Navio Hankyu de Toho Cinemas dori Arca Osaka Station Grand Bldg Higashi Umeda City Cinema Hankyu Lucua Hankyu Dept. JR Osaka Lucua 1100 Sonezaki Daimaru Police H.Q. Umeda Osaka Club Station City Quattro . ta Visitors’ S a d Information Hotel e Hanshin m U Center Granvia 6F Dept. hin ns The Blarney Hilton Ha Junkudo Umeda Stone Plaza West Burg7 Hotel Hilton Kansai Hotel Herbis Dai-4 3/4F Tower Bldg. Osaka Dental Hearton Ent Maru 3RD WORD Beer Records Clinic Hotel Bldg. TGI Fridays Nishiumeda Melbourne Dai-3 Outback Coffee Bldg. Dai-1 2F Dai-2 Bldg. Herbis Steakhouse Bldg. Creamy Osaka Exeo The Ritz-Carlton Kita Shinchi 33F Tanimachi Line Osaka .2 Captain No e t Kangaroo Rou Mister Kelly’s
Ogimachi Park
Osaka YWCA
Ume
da
Craft Beer Base
2
Hotel Monterey Osaka
hi Yotsubas
Dojima Hotel
Dojima River Forum
St a. a m hi os
A
NO
Nakanosh
ima Dori
Bank of Japan
City Hall
Museum of Oriental Ceramics Osaka City N aniw Public Hall aba shi GARB Weeks
Tosabori River
Mitsui Garden Hotel APA Hotel
Osaka
Science Museum
Beer Belly
Rihga Nakanoshima Inn
Mitsui Sumitomo Bank
3
Library
Brooklyn Roasting Company Kitahama
Osaka International Convention Center (Grand Cube Osaka) Sumitomo Hosp.
Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kitahama
Midosuji
Craft Beer Base Garden
TAKAMURA Wine & Coffee Roasters
Yotsubashisuji
EDOBORI
ori
iD
bor
a Tos
Nii Fine Arts
APA Villa Hotel
YMCA
aba
KITAHAMA
Rihga Royal Hotel
Ten m
Kitahama
ka n
A IMNational The H Museum of Art, S
Nakanoshima Festival Tower West
(Loop Route)
Yodoyabashi
Na
Keihan-N
NISHI TENMA
ACCJ Kansai
Oebashi
Higobashi
K NA
r
US Consulate
Hanshin Expressway
ebashi Conrad Festival Osaka Watanab Hall ma Line akanoshi
ive
aR
jim
Do
Ana Crowne Plaza
Line
NTT Data
ABC Hall
4
Hotel Elsereine Osaka
DOJIMA
him
3
Line
Dojima Avanza
a. a St
kus
4 Elmers Green Cafe
Maekawa Legal Group il Bar Central Banco
Utsubo Park
Daiichi Group
Sakaisuji Line
ji
u kes
dai
Naniwasuji
i Am
OSTEC Exibition Hall
Kitamido Utsubo Tennis Center
APA Hotel
Honmachi Dori
A
Hanshin Expressway B
5
Soai High School Starbucks
Honmachi
5
Honmachi
-Fu
suji
KITA SHINCHI
Hanshin
e Lin . ine Main Sta ai L shin shima Toz n a JR H u k u F
Shin
2
Mido
.
Sta
a FUKUSHIMA Hotel
im
sh
Always
Nishi Umeda
Drop Inn Osaka
Hanshin Expressway (Moriguchi Route)
Shin Midosuji
eda
m shi U Higa
The Symphony Hall
ku Fu
OSAKA Umeda
B
A
Chuo Odori Honmachi
Starbucks
The St. Regis, Osaka
Hard Rock Cafe Osaka Chuo Line
C
Sakaisujihommachi D
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
41
shi
B
SHINMACHI 1
Life
Maharaja Minami Anngon
Big Beans Supermarket Hearton Mizuho Hotel Via Inn Bank Hotel Nishiohashi
Namba Shrine
MoeJoe
Hearton Hotel
bi-grace nail Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau
Saturdays NYC
Nagahori dori
MINAMIHORIE
suji
Orange Street (shopping
Horie Park
Triangle Chaolua
Tezukayama street) Gallery 2F
i
Big Step Hotel Lions Rock The Suite
Yotsubashi line
2
Westwood Bakers
Joule Dormy Inn Sun Hall Balabushka Ghost 4F Ultralounge Mustang Moonshine Slices Moon Tower
Ohno Memorial Hospital
Coolabah
Dotonbori Rive
L&L ROR Comedy
r Music Bar S.O.R.a
3
. a Sta
amb JR N
2F Murphy’s
Comfort Hotel The Blarney Stone B1F Suomachi-dori (Europe street) JANUS
Osaka Shochikuza
SOEMON-CHO
Burlesque B1
Pure Osaka
Vista Grande Kaneyoshi Osaka ibis Styles Ryokan Osaka
Don Quijote
MOTOMACHI
NAMBA
MUJI/LOFT Tower Takashimaya Records Absinthe Dept. Store Solaar Swissôtel Maruzen Nankai Osaka
Pub Bar 30 2F Naniwa Sports Center
Jack & Queen
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
Toho Cinemas Namba annex
Visitors Information Center
Naniwa Post Office
B
Naniwa Ward Office
National Bunraku Theater Nipponbashi sta.
BIC Camera
Nankai Namba Station
Namba Oriental Hotel
Misono Building
Namba Plaza Hotel
Singh’s Kitchen Jazz Bar B-Roxy
APA Hotel
NIPPONBASHI
4
Kuromon Market
Sofmap
McDonalds Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium
NAMBA -NAKA
A
Hozenji Temple Osaka Floral Inn
Sennichimae line
Fraser Residence
5
3
Sunroute DOTONBORIHotel Osaka Namba
Kokopelli
Toho Cinemas Namba
Hotel Ichiei
Dormy Inn
Fujiya Hotel
Zerro B1
Shimanouchi Library
Cinquecento
Vanity
Namba Hips
Little Long Beach
INARI
Bar Jaai
HIGASHI- soma SHINSAIBASHI
Namba
Casa Lapichu
2 Minami Police Station
Kinryu Ramen
New Japan Spa Plaza ALZAR Rooftop Bar OO
Namba Sta.
Junkudo
Naniwa Park
42
3F GS Travel
Mexico
Hotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka
AEON MaxValu
Cross Hotel
Don Quijote
ba
4
2F Daimaru Dept. South
Kansai Tourist Information Center
Nam
OCAT
APA Hotel
Dotonbori Hotel
Namba Hatch
Tominaga Hospital
Apple Store
Triangle Park
Ark Hotel
Daimaru Dept.
Silver Ball Planet Cinem @rt
Yamaya
Nagahoribashi
SHINSAIBASHI
5F Boy FootRock &BEERS
Daimaru Dept. North
Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)
TABIJI Kitchen
Nest Hotel
GAP
Uniqlo
8F
Critters Burger Via Inn
Nikko Hotel EXODUS Osaka Hana Banco Hostel OPA Cafe Hotel Vano Mystays Absinthe Circus
Granknot Coffee
Tokyu Hands
El Pancho
Midosuji line
Sauce Boss
Nishitetsu Inn
Yotsubash
Saboten Base Bistro New Orleans
Covent Garden
Craft Burger
El Zocalo
1
Hearton Hotel
Nagahori Tsurumi-Ryokuchi line
Ali’s Kitchen
Toyoko Inn
KITAHORIE
MINAMI-SEMBA Arthur Murray
Louis Vuitton
Shinsaibashi
D
Sakaisuji line
Daiwa Roynet Hotel
C
K2 record Namba PARKS NAMBA PARKS CINEMA
Otaroad
Shinmachi Kita Park
Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)
A
Naniwa-
OSAKA Shinsaibashi
Maps & Info
5
Animate Nihonbashi Shop
Toys”R”Us Yamada Denki LABI1 Namba C
D
Maps & Info
See Kansaifinder.com for more
Osaka Tenmangu Mint Museum
Line
Osaka Castle
The Lutheran Hotel Tanimachi 4-chome
o Koen Osaka-j
Tenmabashi
Hanshin Expressway
Subway Sakaisuji Line
o
Izumi Hall
rk Pa Osaka Castle Park Osaka Museum of History
KKR Hotel Osaka
Hanshin Expressway Higashi Osaka Route
2
Morinomiya
Sakaisuji Honmachi
1
in
Subway Imaza to Line
Subway Tanima chi
e ss
Kitahama
sin
Subway Chuo Line
ig
Hotel New Otani Osaka
Osaka-jo Hall
NHK Osaka Hall
Sh
Bu
Yamamoto Noh Theater
KYOBASHI
i
e
Lin
Osaka Prefectural Government Office
Osaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry APA Hotel
ash
a ka
2
n
iha
Ke
in Ma
i
Hotel Monterey La Souer Osaka
Tenmabashi
MyDome Osaka
sh
Os
TENMA
ba
AEON Kyobashi
oaj e ak um O s i ta z k
Museum of Oriental Ceramics
o Ky
Taiko-en
b Kyo
Osaka Chakai Osaka Temmangu Shrine
1
D Keihan Mall
Osaka Loop Line
Tozai Line
C
OSAKA Osaka Castle
B
Minami-Morimachi
A
Morinomiya Q’s Mall BASE
TAMATSUKURI Osaka Jogakuin College
A
B
C
iya tsuen
-mae
Tenshiba Kans ai Ma in Lin suji L e ine
Imaike
i Main Line Haginoc haya
Nanka
Abeno St a.
Tramw Imfune ay
Hanka i
Yotsubas hi Line ocho
Hanaz on
Abeno Q’s Mall
is
a ak
A
e Han
wa
Tennoji Abeno MIO Harukas Osa ka-A ben obas hi
ROCKTOWN 4F
ine
S
Tin’s Hall
Tenn o Sta. ji
Osaka Municipal University Hospital
L uji
Hoop
Kansai Kyoiku University
Lin
e
2
Kin tets uM
inam
Lezzet
Language School
JR
i-Os
aka
Lin
Kan
e
Ko b
or eg
CocoMomo&Co. B
o
Dobu
ch
Spa World
Imam
Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts
Osaka Tennoji Zoo
Te ra da
Shin-
Osak
a Loo
Tsutenkaku
1
Shitennoji
p Lin
Tanimachi Line
Shitennoji Honbo
Mido
2
odan
SHITENNOJI
Tennoji Sta.
Nank ai Shin -Imam iya
EBISUNISHI
D Tennoji Ward Office
Mom
ress R oute 1 in Exp Hansh
Imamiya Ebisu Shrine
Imam
1
Ebisucho
iyaeb is
u
Daikokucho
Zepp Namba
D
i
C
Shitenn oji-mae Yuhigaok a
B
C
uc
hi
St a.
sai
Ma
in L
ine
D
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
43
OSAKA Tennoji
A
C
to Kyoto Imperal Palace
Hostel Mundo Chiquito Nijo Castle
Clamp Coffee Sasara
1 Hotel Okura Kyoto City Hall
Hearton Hotel
Tozai Subway Line
Yoboji Temple
Kyotoshiyakusho-mae
Sanjo
Nakamura General Store Mikane-Jinja Shrine
Nijojo-Mae
The Museum of Kyoto
Round One
Honnoji Temple Marker
Kyoto BAL
Gion Shirakawa
Nyorinin Hozoji Temple
Kyoto Art Center
to Maruyama Park
Nishiki Market
2
Bukkoji Temple Hotel Nikko Princess Kyoto
oga
Amore Kiyamachi
Kam
Hanano Yu
Kotoku Park
hijo
Gion Corner
Kennin-ji Temple Hojo Yasui Konpiragu Shrine
Daisenji Higashiyama Ward Office
Yumeyakata Gojo Gojo
Tambaguchi
3
Kyoto Gojo Hotel Shuhokaku to Kiyomizu-dera
3
Seikoro
Ichihime-Jinja Shrine
Otani Hombyo Cemetary Sumiya Motenashi Museum Higashi Honganji Temple
Shichijo
Kyoto Aquarium Umekoji Park
Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto
Kyoto National Museum
Yodobashi Camera Kyoto Railway Museum
Toyokuni-Jinja Shrine
Shosei-en Garden
Nishi Honganji Temple
4
2
Shoenji Temple er
Mibudera Temple
Kyoto-Daijingu Shrine
Shijo
Mitsui Garden Hotel
Shin-Omiya
Yasaka Shrine
Gion-S
Kawaramachi
Karasuma
Riv
Omiya
wa
Village Kyoto
Higashiyama
Sanjokeihan
Loft
Rokkakudo Temple Shounji
Kyoto Prefectural Police Station
D
to Heian Shrine
The Ritz-Carlton
Kyoto International Manga Museum
Karasuma Oike
1
Nijo
Chisaku-in Temple
Sanjusangendo
Hyatt Regency Kyoto
Kyoto Tower APA Hotel Rhiga Royal Hotel
4 Kyoto Century Hotel
Bic Camera
Kyoto Station Hotel Granvia
Rokusonno-Jinja Shrine
Imakumano-Jinja Shrine
El Inn Kyoto
New Miyako Hotel
Hotel Keihan Kyoto Grande
k Tofu
uji
Aeon Mall
Toji Sakura Terrace
Kujo
Oji
KYOTO Central
Marutamachi
B
A
Jingu-Marutamachi
Maps & Info
5
Zuirinji Temple
5
Kyoto Terrsa
Tofukuji Temple
Kyoto Brewing Co. A
44
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
B
C
Komyoin
D
Maps & Info
See Kansaifinder.com for more
Grand Prince Hotel Kyoto
Entsu-ji Temple Kamigamo Shrine
C
ICC Kyoto
L i ne
Ota Shrine
uma
Jinko-in Temple
Su bw ay Ka ras
og m Ka
r ve Ri Dori Street
Na
Shimogamo-Jinja
Daishougun Hachi Shrine Aisen-ji Temple
Kyoto Brighton Hotel
Kyoto Imperial Palace B
A
Hankyu Kyoto Line
Eggs ‘n Things
H&M
treet
Police Box Pontocho Park
Hotel Ponto
B
uto uL ine
Shinmonso
river kawa Shira Jam Hostel
Tatsumi Bridge
Gion Kaikan Kyoto Modern Art Museum
Shijo-dori
Kawaramachi
Marui Kyoto
Shoenji Temple
A
Sanjo
Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater Keihan Main Line
Tosa-Inari Shrine (Misaki-jinja)
McDonald’s Takashimaya Department Store Kyoto Daijingu Shrine
Daishogun Shrine
C
Minamiza Theater Hanamiko ji-dori
Junkudo
Shijo
Karasuma Hotel
VOU Art Gallery
Kyoto BAL
Owls Forest Ninja Kyoto Kyoto Kawaramachi OPA Zara
Higashiyama 1
Sanjo
Kitsune Kyoto UrBANGUILD
Gion-S hijo
Karasuma Oike
Tokyu Hands
Kyoto Muse
Ogawa Coffee
Nishiki-tenmangu Shrine Super Hotel
Nishiki Market
Daimaru Kyoto
Hozo Temple
Starbucks
HUB
Kamogawa Riv er
Sugi Drug Shinkyogoku
Kyoto City Tourism Association Visitor Information Hana Hotel
Qu'il Fait Bon
Kiyamachi-dori
Papa Jon's Cafe Rokkaku
McDonald’s
Karasuma
Royal Park Hotel
Sanjo-dori Movix Kyoto Loft Kyoto Game Frank's Panic Chop Shop Seiganji Temple
Inoda Coffee
Ippudo Nishikikouji
Kyoto High School
Yoboji Temple
Honnoji Temple
Cafe Kocsi
Kyonoyado Kaginei
Cocon Karasuma
D
Kyotoshiyakusho-mae
Kyoto Art Center
2
Anraku-ji, and Reikan-ji D
Hiragiya
The Museum of Kyoto
Kyoto Municipal Gender Equality Center Misayama Park
Koiyama
Hounen-in Temple
Tetsugaku-no-michi (Philosopher's Path)
C
Kyoto Hotel Okura
Smart Coffee
Rokkakudo Temple
Higashiyama Jisho-ji (Ginkaku-ji)
Yoshida-jinja Shrine
Comme des Garcons Tozai Line
Hotel Gimmond
Nakagyo Post Office
2
Yasaka Shrine
2
Kanji Museum
Hotel Sunline Gion Corner
D
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
45
KYOTO Sanjo
Shimadai Gallery
Kyoto University of Art & Design
C
Hotel Sugicho
Hearton Hotel
Konpuku-ji Temple
Hyakumanben Chion-ji Temple
B
A
Hotel Monterey Kyoto
Imadegawa Dori Street
Higashi Oji Dori S
Stay SAKURA Kyoto Nishijin
Randen Railw ays Kitano Line
Guesthouse KirinYa Kamogawa River
Horikawa Dori Street
Demachiyanagi Sta. Imadegawa Sta.
Hachidai-Jinja Shrine
Shirakawa Dori Street
ori
et
Falafel Garden
Shokoku-ji Temple
Kitano Tenmangu
1
Mototanaka Sta.
Pontocho
ori Str eet
hi D Kawai-Jinja Shrine
Stre
Oji D
Chayama Sta.
Nis
Dori
Nishi
mo
bon
Kurama-guchi Sta.
Enkou-ji Temple
Shisen-do Temple
an O
Hotel Avanshell Kyoto
oga
S en
Hirano-Jinja Shrine
Kyoto International Manga Musuem
Ichijo-ji Sta.
Kita Oji Dori Street
m Shi
Kinkaku-ji
Manshu-in Monzeki Temple
Keih
Kitaouji Sta. Daitoku-ji
Koutou-in Temple
ark aP ath gaw iP mo rag Ka
Imamiya Dori Street
Saginomori Shrine
Kyoto Botanical Garden
ka
Imamiya Shrine
Kinugasa Joshu-ji Temple
Shugaku-in Sta.
Kyoto Concert Hall
1 Rinkyuji Temple
Kitayama Dori S tre et
Matsugasaki Sta.
Kitayama Sta.
Saginomori Imperial Villa
Myoen-ji
Ta ka no Ri ve r
Kitayama
Sekizanzen-in Temple
Yusen-ji
a aw
1 Genko-an Temple
Kitano Hakubaicho Sta.
Takaragaike Sta.
Takaragaike Park
Josho-ji Temple
2
D Line entetsu Eizan D Miyake-Hachiman Sta.
Renge-ji Temple Kokusaikaikan Sta.
KYOTO North
B
A
B
A
C
D
Kitano Museum
Kobe YWCA
Kitanoseiryu Shrine
Hotel Piena Kobe
1
KITANO-CHO Kitanosaka Hosp.
Fudo z
Shiei Yamate subway line
Suwayama Park
Kobe Grocers
k oza
a
The Rock 2F
n Kita
t ee Str arl Pe Kobe Kobe Womens Mosque Junior College Kobe Meister Garden
ak terz Hun
a
ori
-d oto
am
Yam
1
1F Bistrot Cafe De Paris
aka
Migration Museum
d Roa Tor
St. Michael’s International School
2
nn
om
iya
JR
Shinko High School
Sa nn om iya
2
Sansei Hosp.
Sun City en The Harbour NHK 7F Junkudo ns Ikuta Police ka Tavern 7F e t Ikuta jinja Station OS Cinemas ma Midnight Ya Kobe Mint Kobe Hotel Monte Halal Food 5F Hermana Kobe Amalie Tokyu Tower Mickey’s Chicken REI Hotel Iznt Records ya Club 5F George mi 4F o nn Sa Tokyu Hotel iya Hotel Hands Monterey nom Tor Road San 4F Oriental SOGO Dept. Varit Dental the b kobe 5F Kinokuniya Don Clinic Ali’s Quijote Kobe Kokusai Kitchen Kaikan Troopcafe 3F San Marui 1F HSBC e2 Plaza Village ut Vangard Ro Kobe Kokusai Center o Center Shochiku Plaza East ud Plaza ets t u t. West ok iya ae s os nom eim Junkudo ek Sannomiya Sannadok ob a K Cine Phoenix H Candeo Palmore e Hosp. lin Hotel Kobe Holiday Inn Express Guild hin ns 2F a H Aoyama Kobe Ikuta Junior High a. Kobe BAL hi Minato Kobe City School i st Bank yuc e ach Hall Kobe yor uma tom k o i r u h y ma M Plaza c K a i JR Hotel Da tom Cine Libre Kobe Mo Kobe Doll Museum Mitsui Daimaru Sumitomo Dept. Bank Higashiyuenchi Park Tokyu Oriental REI Hotel Hotel Raja Indian Kobe Luminarie Restaurant Municipal e Museum n lin a ig Ka way Sub Sa
APA Hotel
Sa
nn
om
iya
Kobe Elementary School
Daiwa Roynet Hotel
t Por
r
u ka
chi
line
San
Soraku Park
nd.
Hyogo-ken Prefectural Hall
3
Isogami Park KRAC
eki
o M Han ain aku m Li a ne
ter cen 7F Kobe Legal Partners
hi
4
at om
hi JR
To k
ot om
ac
aid
4
Hotel Sunroute Sopra 3
Bo
ad
r ro
we Flo
NANKIN-MACHI
Hanakuma Park
mo
tom
M
ac
in
KIITO Cafe Fish!
SHINKO-CHO
hiNis
KOBE Sannomiya
Maps & Info
Hotel Okura Kobe
Hotel La Suite Kobe Harborland
Kobe Maritime Museum Jumbo Ferry Terminal
5
Meriken park
Arthur Murray CULMENI 3F
Kobe Harborland umie
OS Cinema Harborland
46
Kobe Cruise Luminous Kobe 2
umie MOSAIC
A
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
5
Kobe Minato Onsen Ren
Kobe Meriken Park Oriental
B
C
D
Maps & Info
See Kansaifinder.com for more
NARA Overview
Kizu River Yamada Sta. Ke i
Nishi-Kizu Sta.
YAGYU AREA
Kizu Sta.
YAGYU AREA
Jubei s cedar
na wa
Bus Stop
E
xp
re s
Takanohara Sta.
sw
ay
KYOTO
Ama-no-Ishitate Shrine
YAGYU-CHO The main house of Yagyu Houtoku-ji Temple
Ofuji s Well
Narayama Sta. Mausoleums Heijo Sta. Nara-Okuyama Driveway YamatoSaidaiji Sta.
Ima-gawa Stream
NARA
Masakizaka Kendo & Zen Dojyo
Ruin of Mausoleum Enjo-ji Temple
Heijō Palace remains
Yasaka Shrine
Yagyu Kaido Trail Mt. Yoshino
Nara Sta.
Ruin of The House of Yagyu
JR Nara Sta.
Iris garden
CENTRAL NARA
Touge Chaya Jigoku-dani Sekkutsu-butsu
Yuhi-kannon
Nakamura 6 Jizos Housou Jizo
Kubikiri Jizo Asahi-kannon
Kujo Sta.
B
C Chisoku-In
Tengaimon gate of Todaiji
ve
r
HIGASHI SASABOKO-CHO
Sa
ho
Ri
1
D
Shosoin Main Warehouse
West Treasures Warehouse
East Treasures Warehouse
Ryu-shou-In
Imperial Household Agency Shosoin Office
NISHI SASABOKO-CHO
1 Todaiji Nigatsudo
Ruin of Yakemon (Chumon) the gate of Todaiji Nara Women’s University
Todai-ji Karakuni Shrine (Tengu Shrine)
Hotel Tamar
Todaiji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo)
OSHIAGE-CHO YURUGI-CHO
SHUKUIN-CHO
Ruin of Saidaimon the gate of Todaiji
Guesthouse Nara Backpackers
NOBORIOJI-CHO
Nara Prefectural Museum
SUIMON-CHO
Mt. Wakakusa
Oak Hostel Nara Nara Prefectural Office
Nandaimon Gate of Todaiji
Himuro Shrine
Hall of Kofuku-ji “Chu-kon-do”
Hoku’endo
The Fifty-Two Steps
Tourist Info Center
(luggage storage & delivery service)
Sarusawa Pond
Yoshidaya
GANRININ-CHO
Nara Pickle Shop
2
Musashino
Nara Kasugano Int’l Forum Mizuya Shrine
Nara National Museum New Wings
Five Storied Pagoda
Nan’endo
Matsunoya
Kofuku-ji Main Hall
Kozen-in
(2F)
LAMP BAR
Mont-bell
Yume-Kaze Plaza Shops & Cafes
Nara National Museum
“Tou-kon-do” LBK Craft
Int’l Forum IRAKA Annex
Yoshiki-en
Kintetsu line Nara Sta.
Tourist Info Center
NARA PARK
Todaiji Museum
Isuien Neiraku Museum
NAKASUJI-CHO 2
Tamukeyama Hachimangu Kagami-Ike Pond
Kikusuiro
Shikitei Hotel Pagoda
Hitokotonushi Shrine Kasuga-taisha
Edosan Inn
Tsubomiwa Shrine
Aoba Chaya
Roku-en
Enso Bairin Tei
Wakamiya Shrine
IKENO-CHO
Ara Pond
Nara Hotel
Ukimido Pavilion Kinryu Shrine
3
3
Yuga Shrine
Kii Shrine
Meishou Kyu-Daijoin Teien Former Residnece of Naoya Shiga (novelist)
Gango-ji Gokuraku-bo
Hotel Wellness Asukaji Kuuki Cake Shop
Zutou Pyramid A
Jurin-in Temple
B
Yagyu Kaido Trail C
Kantoku Temple Fukuu-in D
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
47
NARA Central
A
WEST Japan
Maps & Info B
A
C
D
E
KANSAI 1 TOKYO
Kyoto Shiga
Hyogo Osaka
Mie Nara
Wakayama
Tot Tottor Yonago
Mt. Daisen
Izumo-taisha Shrine Izumo
TOTTORI
2
SHIMANE
OKAYAMA
3
HIROSHIMA
Shin Kurashiki
Mihara
Hiroshima
YAMAGUCHI
Kurashiki Fukuyama
Shod Islan
Shin Onomichi
Seto Ohashi
Onomichi
Hiroshima
Shin Iwakuni
Naoshima Art Island
Angel Road
Itsukushima-jinja Shrine Takamatsu
Yamaguchi
KAGAWA
Tokuyama
4
Korakuen Garden Okayama
Fukuyama Higashi Hiroshima
Okayama
Shin Yamaguchi Imabari
TO Matsuyama
EHIME
5
KOCHI Kochi
A
48
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
B
C
D
E
Maps & Info
See Kansaifinder.com for more G
H Dinosaur Museum
Ho kk aid o
F
I Katsuyama
To Ni ga ta
&
Fukui
FUKUI
1
Gujo
Tsuruga
Maizuru
ttori Sand Dunes ri
Mikata-goko Five Lakes Cycling Course
Obama
Takahama
GIFU
Kinosaki Maibara
Mt. Hyonosen
Gifu Hashima
2
Lake Biwa Hikone-jo Castle
KYOTO
Tamba
Oumihachiman
Enryaku-ji Temple
HYOGO
Sasayama
aid
Mt. Hiei
Kyoto
k To
Otsu
Kyoto
Himeji
Ako
SHIGA
AICHI
Mikawa Anjo
Kinkaku-ji
Uji Himeji-jo Castle Sa ny oS hin ka ns en
Suzuka Circuit
Arima Iga
Mt. Rokko
Shin Osaka
Shin Kobe
do nd
3
Toudai-ji Temple
Osaka
Akashi Ohashi
Nara
Sakai
Kansai International Airport
Awaji
Tsu
Osaka-jo Castle
Kobe Nishi Akashi
Toba Aquarium
OSAKA
MIE
Ise Ise Grand Shrine
NARA
Awaji Island Naruto Ohashi
Nagoya
Koga
Fushimi Inari Aioi
Nagoya
n
se
an
ink
h oS
Wakayama
Sumoto
Yoshino
Hashimoto
Shionoha Odaigahara
Naruto
Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)
Mt. Koya
4 Mt. Shakagatake Mt. Obako
Tokushima
WAKAYAMA
OKUSHIMA
Kumano
Hongu
Bridges
Kumanohongu Shrine
Ferries Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail
Shingu
Tanabe
Mt. Nachi
Kumano Kodo Trail
Shirahama Nachi Falls
5
Ninja Village
Nachikatsuura
Hot Springs Kushimoto
Ski Spots Beaches
F
G
H
I
Kansai Scene | WINTER 2019 | kansaiscene.com
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