Kansai Scene 223: Autumn 2019

AUTUMN

SEP–NOV 2019 No. 223

Free

WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE

Autumn

The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas

Plus

Inside…

Explore

KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS

Travel

TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI

Discover

A WAKAYAMA SWORDSMITH PRESERVES A DYING ART

Culture

HIMEJI’S FIGHTING FESTIVAL RETURNS

WHAT’S ON EAT & DRINK SIGHTSEEING MAPS

SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

For Success in RUGBY Visit The Japanese Shinto Deity of VICTORY!

S

hinto has been the indigenous faith for Japanese people since ancient times, preceding Buddhism. A Shinto shrine is a place of worship, with thoussands of them all over Japan. Tarobo shrine in Higashi-omi is well known for its spiritual power and is believed to brings worshippers good luck, since it enshrines a deity of victory.

Many Japanese traditional cultures are deeply related to Shinto. People pray to God for their family’s health, good harvest or safe travel, which sometimes involves a ritual ceremony, consisting of lighting fires, playing music or performing dances. This prayer culture has been deeply ingrained in local areas. However, nowadays, even Japanese people rarely experience such a fantastic culture. That is why we prepared this tour to share the awe with you. Do you fancy a glimpse of Japanese religious culture? Are you visiting Japan from overseas? Don’t miss out on the chance to experience a unique local culture.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

Kyoto There are numerous deities enshrined in various shrines up and down the country.

Amongst them, the Tarobo Shrine in Higashi-omi city in Shiga prefecture, attracts a steady stream of worshippers, including sporting celebrities and sportsfans, and even Olympic medalists, all praying to realise their dreams.

Higashi-omi

Osaka

THE HIGASHI-OMI REGION, 90 MINUTES FROM OSAKA, WAS DEVELOPED AS AN ESSENTIAL TRANSPORTATION HUB TO LINK THE WESTERN PART WITH THE EASTERN PART OF JAPAN IN ANCIENT TIMES. THIS REGION IS IMMERSED IN HISTORY, NATURE AND COLOURFUL TRADITIONAL CULTURE.

Absorb traditional Japanese beauty at the Omi Merchant’s Residence The Omi merchants’ philosophy, “everybody doing well (e.g. seller, buyer and society)” has the same principle as “Sustainable Development Goals.” Many luxurious merchant houses represent the flourishing merchant’s culture and the simplicity and frugality of the ancient Japanese lifestyle. It brilliantly conveys both contrastive aspects of the good old times of Japan.

The 2019 Rugby World Cup kicks off this autumn. Whether you are a fan or a player, this is the place you should visit!

Enoy the stunning colour scheme of Nunobikiyaki Pottery The Nunobikiyaki pottery is a modern version of Ryokusaitoki pottery (green coloured pottery) which was made during the Heian Period but was discontinued one thousand years ago. The Nunobikiyaki features beautiful colours which are created by a particular technique, “Shichisaitenmoku.”

Hitomi-Sanso The Hitomi-sanso is a traditional-style private lodging house and accommodates just one group per day. The building represents traditional Japanese architecture which features an old thatched roof and thick pine beams.

Hyakusai-ji Temple We have prepared an exclusive tour to provide an authentic experience of Omi ’s tradition and culture, which is held in a drawing room of Hyakusai-ji, one of the oldest temples, built 1,400 years ago.

Special Experience Programme provided by Knowbyheart A one day tour which provides you with a fantastic insight into this ancient culture with an exclusive service. The highlight of this programme is authentic worship. A prayer for victory is performed in the private hall, which is opened exclusively for you. Single worship allows only a pair of guests to attend. During the tour, you listen to an exciting talk made by a Shinto priest about the history of Japanese shrines and the Tarobo shrine itself. Moreover, Mt Akagami is famous for moon viewing. Notably, the autumn moon from September to November is incredible. An annual event called “Kangetsukai” is held to admire the moon and appreciate the good harvest of the year.

The ancient soothing music and a magnificent moon will be a part of your unforgettable memory of your life (an extra charge is required).

ITINERARY 1. Introduction to Mt Akagami 2. Special prayer 3. Japanese cultural experience 4. Ancient Japanese court dance and music (optional) 5. Omi beef dinner (optional) Booking essential. For more details, please visit Knowbyheart.

https://www.knowbyheart.world

SEARCH

Discover Hiroshima’s Scenic Beauty in Akiota-cho

YOICHI SHIDAREZAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOM A stunning 12m tall weeping cherry sitting atop a small hillock is lit up during its brief, but spectacular spring bloom OSORAKAN SNOW PARK

Breathtaking views, fabulous hiking, exciting snow sports and relaxing hot spring accommodation await

Japan’s southernmost ski resort, offering long runs for all levels of skiers and snowboarders, as well as snow trekking and igloo building

SANDANKYO GORGE A stunning 13km river gorge, awarded 3 stars by the French travel guide Blue Guide and selected as one of the top 100 scenic beauty spots in Japan

INI TANADA Picture-perfect terraced paddy fields, offering stunning photo opportunities year-round

Nukui Springs Hotel Offers traditional outdoor hot spring baths overlooking Lake Ryuki in Hiroshima’s Akiota-cho. Relax in comfortable western style or Japanese tatami mat rooms and enjoy our award-winning French dining.

Akiota-cho

Okayama

Himeji

Kyoto Osaka Kobe

Hiroshima

Address: 4692-7, Kake, Akiotacho, Yamgatagun, Hiroshima 731-3501, Japan Tel: +81 (0)826-22-1200 Access: 1 hour by car from Hiroshima IC

RESERVATIONS

www.nukui-sp.com

CONTENTS

Autumn

9

Sep/Oct /Nov

14

KANSAI FINDER

32

Features

Events & Festivals

08

20

Fall-leaf Camping

Kansai Performing Arts

36 Sights & Attractions

RANDY POEHLMAN

ARIA AOYAMA

38

Serene spots to pitch a tent and take in autumn views.

The Noh connection with the autumn season.

Art & Exhibitions

10

22

40

Treasures of Tamba Sasayama

Discover Ibaraki

Opt out of the crowds and rejuvenate in the Hyogo countryside.

Explore the mountains, gorges, and seascapes of northern Ibaraki.

14

30

Life of a Swordsmith

Nagano’s Salty Secrets

A 33-year-old Hashimoto man devotes his life to swordmaking.

The mysterious saltwater springs of Oshika-mura.



LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA

Live Music

42 Clubs & Nightlife

44 Food & Drink

48 Getting Around / Maps

What’s On Guide

ON THE COVER: SWORD SMITH HAMAKAWA SADASUMI, JASON HAIDAR THIS PAGE: TAMBA SASAYAMA NATURAL THERAPY SPECIALIST MAYA ADACHI, JASON HAIDAR; SWORD SMITH HAMAKAWA SADASUMI, JASON HAIDAR; NADA KENKA MATSURI, JASON HAIDAR

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AND MUCH MORE… CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

5

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The top-selling hydrogen gas inhaler in Japan

THE BEST TECHNOLOGY IN THE WORLD'S SMALLEST

New model coming this Autumn

See website for more details

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

ABOUT KANSAI SCENE KANSAI SCENE PROVIDES ENGLISHLANGUAGE ARTICLES, INFORMATION AND LISTINGS FOR VISITORS AND RESIDENTS OF THE KANSAI AREA. KANSAI SCENE IS PUBLISHED BY MOJOWORKS KK, WITH SUPPORT FROM CB, LTD. Publisher................................Daniel Lee Managing Editor.......Celia Polkinghorne Editor................................. Jason Haidar Art Director............................Daniel Lee Production........................Mojoworks KK Listings Contributors Art.................................... Brooke Larsen Events..................................Tomoko Ishii Live Music....................... Phillip Jackson Club.................................. Saiko Fujiwara ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES

T

his autumn, we take you on a tour of one of Kansai’s rural gems—the historical district of Tamba Sasayama (p 10). An old pocket of Japan well-known for its pottery, a younger generation of budding entrepreneurs is bringing a new energy to the region opening small businesses like brewpubs, cafes, cycle shops, and more. We also catch up with a young swordsmith in Katsuragi, Wakayama who is on a mission to continue the traditional Japanese art of katana forging (p 14).

Traveling north to catch some leafy views, our writer Louise George Kittaka shows us around the lesser-explored region of

Northern Ibaraki, which boasts some spectacular autumn scenery (p 22). And if you’re up for a local outdoor adventure this fall, check out our Kansai camping recommendations for some top spots to take in the red and gold vistas (p 08). There’s plenty of action on the festivals front this season including Hyogo’s famed fighting festival which returns to Matsubara Hachiman Shrine this October 14th and 15th (p 09). Stay up-to-date with a full list of Kansai events and festivals on the Kansai Finder page of our website. And for reminders of what’s happening in the region every week, sign up for our weekly e-newsletters at kansaiscene.com.

CELIA POLKINGHORNE editor@ kansaiscene.com

CB, Ltd Email................ sales@kansaiscene.com Tel......................................03-6260-9125 GENERAL ENQUIRIES

AUTUMN ARCHERY DISPLAY

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NOV 30 AT KAMO SHRINE IN OMIHACHIMAN, SHIGA

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

7

DISCOVER If you’re eager to see nature’s blazing autumn show but less thrilled about lining up with the crowds, consider an autumn camping trip to one of these picture-perfect Kansai locations.

Kansai Fall Camping See the best of the autumn leaves without joining the masses.

TEXT: RANDY POEHLMAN

1 KYUKAMURA OMIHACHIMAN, SHIGA

This campground is located on the shores of Lake Biwa. The hotel and campground complex features a swimming pool, beach, kayaking, and wideopen spaces with beautiful lake views. There are also restaurants available in the Kyukamura village hotels.

The nearest train station is Omi-Hachiman but public transportation access to the village is via shuttle bus.

ACCESS: Shuttle bus from JR Omihachiman Stn • TEL: 0748-32-3138 • qkamura.or.jp/ohmi/camp

3

4

5

KASAGI, KYOTO

MORI-NO-TERRACE, OSAKA

SHIAWASE-NO-MURA, HYOGO

KUMANO KODO, WAKAYAMA

Kasagi Campground in Kyoto Prefecture is known for its accessible location and serene riverside setting. The camp is located next to Kasagi-ohashi Bridge which runs over the Kizugawa River. Kasagi is also known for its direct public transportation access, just a five-minute walk from JR Kasagi Station. The campsites can be rocky, so if you are planning on sleeping in a tent, a groundsheet and a sleeping mat are recommended. There are washroom facilities and a nearby onsen.

Located in North Osaka near Nose; this campground has a variety of options from traditional camping to the modern “glamping” for those who prefer to camp with a little more comfort. The location is along highway 173 and is next to the Yamabe River. Nose Onsen is also close by providing campers with an extra bit of luxury.

This campground is situated in a large park in Kobe and is ideal for campers with families as there is a lot of kids’ playground equipment in the park. The well-maintained bathrooms and nearby onsen and supermarket make camping life easy. It is located a few kilometers from Nishisuzurandai Station.

For more experienced campers who like to do multi-day hikes and treks with their tent and gear on their backs, the iconic Kumano-Kodo pilgrimage routes on the Kii Peninsula are sure to delight with the autumn foliage.

There are various campgrounds along the routes and many wild camp spots to be found. The trails are popular and common trailheads include Kii-Tanabe, Koyasan, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hongu Taisha.

ACCESS: by car • TEL: 090-8863-6974 • mori-

no-terrace.com

ACCESS: JR Kasagi Stn • TEL: 0743-95-2011 • kasagi.kyoto-fsci.or.jp

8

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

ACCESS: Shinsetsu line, Nishisuzurandai Stn • TEL: 078-743-8000 • shiawasenomura.org

ACCESS: JR Kiitanabe Stn; Nankai Koyasan Stn; JR Kiikatsuura Stn; or by car

PHOTO: RANDY POEHLMAN

2

WHAT’S ON

WHEN THE GODS CLASH Japan’s most epic fighting festival returns to Himeji.

TEXT: KS

PHOTO: JJASON HAIDAR

A

t Hyogo’s most action-packed festival—the Nada no Kenka Matsuri (Fighting Festival)— spectators revel in watching groups of revved-up men hoist palanquins onto their shoulders and crash them ferociously against one another.

The aim is to topple opposing palanquins and be the last one standing.

Held every year on the 14th and 15th of October at Matsubara Hachiman Shrine in the suburb of Shirahama, Himeji City, this two-day event is the largest of Japan’s fighting festivals, attracting over 100,000 visitors each year.

The exact origins of this event have become somewhat lost to history, but one theory is that the crashing of the floats and palanquins mimics a great sea battle derived from the legend of Empress Jingu’s (169–269) military expedition to Korea. Regardless of the genesis of this Shinto festival, the significance is that the winners are blessed with a bountiful harvest, good fortune, and of course, bragging rights.

Men from the seven villages of Kiba, Matsubara, Nakamura, Mega, Usazaki, Higashiyama, and Yaka compete for this honor, dressed in only a fundoshi (loincloth), jika-tabi (split toe boots), and a colored hachimaki (headband) designating their local allegiance. The main part of the festival where the shrine-crashing action takes place is on the 15th—the

second of the two days. On the 14th, Shinto purification rituals are performed in preparation for the following day.

The climax of the festival in the afternoon on the 15th is known as yatai-awase, where the incredibly ornate two-ton yatai balanced on the shoulders of hoards of men collide at full tilt. This is when the pandemonium truly begins and it takes place at Otabiyama—a hilltop area with a large outdoor arena setup. The chaos carries on until sundown when the yatai are carried all the way to the top of Otabiyama. There, they are illuminated by hanging lanterns and then paraded down before the crowds once more. After the last of the jousting, one village is declared the winner, and the rest are left to lick their wounds. But the party carries on into the night with triumphant victors, languishing losers, and sloshed spectators gathering together for their last hurrah before dawn.

While the festival is free for anyone to attend, the box seating for the Matsubara Hachiman Shrine leg of the fights is reserved for residents and families of the participants. For the Otabiyama leg, it’s first in-best spot. Despite its large size, this festival still retains an authentic and down-to-earth atmosphere. Locals are quick to share their snacks and sake, which flows aplenty for both spectators and participants.

Oct 14 & 15 HYOGO

Nada no Kenka Matsuri 灘のけんか祭り

Matsubara Hachiman Shrine, Himeji Time: 11am Oct 14 at Matsubara Hachiman Shrine 9am Oct 15 at Matsubara Hachiman Shrine then Otabiyama Admission: Free • Access: Sanyo Line, Shirahamanomiya Stn, 5-min walk • nadamatsuri.jp

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

9

FEATURE

The Treasures OF

TAMBA SASAYAMA

Discover the delights of one of Hyogo’s hidden gems.

TEXT: KS

10

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

EXQUISITE PAINTED SCREENS LINE TATAMI MAT ROOMS AT THE OSHOIN IN SASAYAMA CASTLE

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

W

hile so much of the action in Japan is concentrated in its big cities, Japanese rural towns are in some senses making a comeback. In districts like Hyogo’s Tamba Sasayama, residents are working together with the local government to encourage young people to move to the area—or to return there if it’s where they grew up—to start their businesses and families. Don’t be surprised to drive down a quiet, seemingly sleepy street only to find a renovated kominka (traditional wooden house) converted into a hip craft beer brewpub, or a gourmet coffee house, or an art gallery and gift shop with a holistic therapy salon sitting atop.

Businesses like these, started by budding entrepreneurs looking to strengthen the local community and provide value to travelers and passersby, can be found in several pockets of Tamba Sasayama. This region provides a way of life that has eluded many young Japanese—fresh air, nature on the doorstep, stillness, silence, plenty of time for contemplation. Above all, a sense of community and of knowing your neighbors. All of this is probably what makes it such a wonderful place to visit.

The city, about a 60-minute train ride northwest of Osaka, was created in 1999 through the merger of the former town of Sasayama as well as three other villages—Konda, Nishiki, and Tannan.

In November 2018, the city held a successful referendum to change its name to Tamba Sasayama, referencing the historical Tamba Province that the city has been a part of. Best explored with a rental car (although possible using public trains and busses), this region makes a welcome retreat away from the

throngs of tourists packing the popular sightseeing spots in destinations like Kyoto. A place where you feel like you can experience the ‘real’ Japan, follow our itinerary for a perfect weekend in Tamba Sasayama.

STUNNING SUITS OF ARMOR ON DISPLAY AT SASAYAMA CASTLE

DAY 1 VISIT SASAYAMA CASTLE The first stop for anyone with an interest in Japanese history is Sasayama Castle, or rather the remains of it. While the outer walls and moats are more or less intact, as with many Japanese castles these days, the remaining central structure—the Oshoin—is, in fact, a faithfully reconstructed copy. The castle was hurriedly built in 1609 as a base from which to launch an attack on Osaka by none other than Tokugawa Ieyasu, who was more concerned with function over aesthetics, which is why a central tower for the castle was never constructed.

Today, the Oshoin serves as a museum where you can peruse artifacts in a series of tatami (straw mat) rooms. For the full historical experience, you can even try on a set of samurai armor.

ROAM THE OLD SAMURAI RESIDENCE QUARTER Just a short drive or 10-minute walk from the castle, visit Sasayama’s charming old samurai residence quarter where many traditional thatched buildings have been painstakingly preserved.

Here, the Anma-Family Samurai Residence Museum, a 200-year-old former samurai home, has a superb collection of Edo-period tools and home furnishings.

THE ANMA-FAMILY SAMURAI RESIDENCE MUSEUM HOUSES A COLLECTION OF EDOPERIOD TOOLS AND HOME FURNISHINGS

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11

Autumn Festival The Tamba Sasayama Aji Matsuri (autumn flavors festival) will take place on October 12th, 13th, and 14th. During the event, visitors can enjoy local specialties like black soybean edamame, Tamba chestnuts, matsutake mushrooms, and wild boar in miso soup.

ABOVE: SOBA NOODLES SERVED WITH A MASHED YAM AND EGG TOPPING

STROLL DOWN NIKAIMACHI SHOPPING STREET Back in town, a wander along the Nikaimachi shopping street will take you past restaurants serving local delicacies like botan nabe (wild boar hotpot) and Sasayama beef, and street-food vendors peddling roasted chestnuts in the cold months and kuromame (black bean) snacks year-round. The Tamba Sasayama History Museum is worth checking out to learn more about the area and its past.

PERUSE POTTERY ART AT TAMBA TRADITIONAL ART CRAFT PARK For genuine pottery lovers, it’s well worth the effort to get out to Tamba Traditional Craft Park (Tachikui Sueno-sato), a 20-minute drive outside the city. Set in the verdant, mountainous Tamba countryside, the park features a special nobori gama inclined kiln, which attracts artisans from all over the world. For a chance to make your own Tamba-yaki ceramics, book yourself into a pottery workshop.

12

On October 19th and 20th, visitors can browse and buy exquisite local ceramics and autumn foods during the Tamba Pottery Festival.

EAT LOCAL SOBA NOODLES Slurp down a hearty bowl of yamanoimo tsuke tororo soba noodles served in the local style with a mashed yam and egg topping at the restaurant Hanakoushi in the Kawaramachi district.

CLIMB THE STAIRS TO OJIYAMA MAKEKIRAI INARI According to legend, the rather unusual name of this shrine—Makekirai Inari, or the “hate to lose shrine”—was constructed in honor of a group of foxes who, sometime in the first half of the 19th century, took the form of sumo wrestlers and participated in an important sumo competition in Tokyo to please the lord of Sasayama. (Foxes are regarded as a tutelary animal of Shinto shrines).

Sasayama’s feudal lord at the time was known for his hatred of losing and was very pleased when these mysterious wrestlers won the competition on behalf

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

of his domain, which had not performed well in the sumo previously. Nowadays, this shrine is said to be good luck for anyone who walks up through the tunnel of vermilion torii gates and prays for success in sports competitions, passing exams, business, and job-hunting. There is a beautiful view from the top next to the shrine.

STAY A NIGHT IN THE POST TOWN OF FUKUSUMI About a 20-minute drive from Kawaramachi, the Fukusumi district connected Sasayama and Kyoto in the Edo period (1603–1868) and was a popular overnight stop on this historic route. The old townscape still retains its Edo-period atmosphere from when its many accommodations opened their doors to travelers. There are several renovated and well-maintained traditional wooden houses that provide historic overnight lodgings for visitors to Fukusumi. Mori no fudo is one such house built around 200 years ago that rents to groups of up to five people for around ¥15,000 per night. Bookings can be made at morinofood.com

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

RIGHT: THE STRIKING TORII GATES OF MAKEKIRAI INARI SHRINE

HERBAL RELAXATION AT HOLISTIC MUGWORT. RIGHT: STAY IN A TRADITIONAL HOUSE IN FUKUSUMI

Getting There

DAY 2

RENT A BICYCLE AND EXPLORE THE REGION ON TWO WHEELS

START THE MORNING WITH FRESHLY GROUND COFFEE

Despite being flanked by mountains, the Tamba Sasayama town areas are relatively flat, making the roads perfect for cycling. Drop into the Green Cross Road bicycle shop and cafe and choose from the vast array of bikes on the advice of Daisuke Murakami, a huge cycling enthusiast who has even assisted the Japan national cycling team during past competitions. At Green Cross Road, road bikes, mountain bikes, and regular town riding bikes are available for rent, plus there are maintenance, repair, and customization options if you happen to turn up with your own set of wheels.

Ask Daisuke for his recommendations on the best cycling routes around the district.

Wander over to the spacious cafe and roasting house Magnum Coffee and start your day with the best cup of joe in Tamba Sasayama.

GET A RELAXING HERBAL TREATMENT

PHOTOS:JASON HAIDAR

Head to Holistic Mugwort and meet your natural therapy specialist 32-yearold Maya Adachi who uses plants and herbs grown in the Tamba Sasayama region to provide relief from and healing of various skin and body ailments.

She is an expert in massage and body tapping techniques as well as a variety of herbal treatments. While you wait for your appointment, shop for rare souvenirs in the quaint gallery and gift shop downstairs, Littleleaf, run by Adachi’s husband.

From Osaka, take a rapid train on the JR Fukuchiyama/Takarazuka line to Sasayamaguchi Station. Stop by the Tamba Sasayama Tourist Station to pick up handy maps and leaflets for exploring the region. From the station, take the Shinki bus for 15 mins and get off at the Nikaimachi stop. From there you can enjoy Sasayama on foot, beginning with the castle.

WIND DOWN WITH A CRAFT BEER After a long afternoon of biking, head over to Tamba Sasayama Tabijino Brewery’s newly opened rustic craft beer brewpub for a glass of their pilsner, pale ale, weizen, or stout.

RENT A BIKE FROM GREEN CROSS ROAD AND EXPLORE ON TWO WHEELS

TANBASASAYAMA.COM

Find it…

Sasayama Castle 2-3 Kitashinmachi; withsasayama.jp • Anma-Family Samurai Residence Museum 95 Nishi-shinmachi; withsasayama.jp/REKIBUN/anma_ top.htm • Tamba Sasayama City Historical Museum 53 Gofukumachi; withsasayama.jp • Tamba Traditional Craft Park 3 Kamitachikui Kondacho; tanbayaki. com • Hanakoushi 160 Kawaramachi; hanakoushi.jugem.jp • Makekirai Inari 92 Kawaramachi; makekirai.com • Mori no fudo 194-1 Kawara; morinofood.com • Magnum Coffee 317 Fukusumi; magnum-millpour.com • Holistic Mugwort 379-2 Fukusumi; tanbasasayama.com/2019/03/20/holistic-mugwort • Green Cross Road 372 Fukusumi; high-lander2. com • Tabijino Brewery 385 Fukusumi; t-brewery.jp

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

13

FEATURE

THE ART of the

Katana From his workshop in the hills of Wakayama, this fresh-faced swordsmith endeavors to protect a dying Japanese art.

TEXT: KS

14

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

S

tationed in a waist-high concrete pit measuring roughly two-by-two meters at his Katsuragi workshop in Wakayama, 33-year-old swordmaker Hamakawa Sadasumi stands face-to-face with a fiery forge. Reaching searing temperatures of 1,300 to 1,500 degrees, this blazing furnace is where the magic of Hamakawa’s sword crafting begins.

Dressed in classic white workman’s attire, including white tabi socks and wooden geta clogs, he patiently stokes the flames with a long-handled poker before swiftly withdrawing a chunk of superheated tamahagane steel from the furnace. Meaning “jewel steel,” tamahagane is produced from iron sand, a source of iron ore. Hamakawa sources his tamahagane from Shimane Prefecture, where one mountain town is now the exclusive source for the topquality steel needed by craftsmen who make swords.

Placing the red-hot hunk of steel carefully on an anvil, he begins to vigorously hammer the glowing brick using a loud hammering machine then several handheld chisels, sending showers of incandescent sparks flying across the workshop floor. The forged tamahagane is folded transversely and longitudinally many times. It is heated and then cooled by water at each stage, which oxidizes the steel surface. Removing these oxidized layers reduces the steel’s impurities.

All this is before painstakingly shaping the blade using an array of hammers and chisels. Hamakawa explains the most crucial aspect of making a sword, apart from removing as many impurities as possible from the tamahagane, is molding the tip of the blade correctly.

“There’s nothing easy about any of the steps, but the most critical is the tip of the sword. If you mess that up, you can’t use any of the blade—you have to start all over again. It can all be over in 10 minutes.”

Adding a further layer of difficulty, there are basically no directions or formulas left to make ancient swords.

“There’s no template for making that curve—it all has to come from memoriz-

ing what I was taught from my master during my apprenticeship.”

Hashimoto-born Hamakawa decided at high-school age that he wanted to eschew the typical corporate path that most Japanese youth follow these days.

He wanted to forge a career out of making something with his hands, and finally sought out his sensei (master)—renowned swordmaker Gasan Sadatoshi from Nara Prefecture—who he would apprentice under for eight years.

During these eight laborious years, he learned the life of a swordsmith is a ritual of scalding heat, hard labor, and the unstinting pursuit of perfection. But the passion was instilled in him, and after passed his swordsmith examination and receiving permission to produce Japanese swords in his own style, he set up his workshop where he will endeavor to honor and uphold this dying Japanese art.

“It wasn’t until I started doing it that I realized I was going to become part of a movement of protecting a traditional Japanese craft,” he said. There are around 300 registered swordmakers in the country but probably only about 10 percent of those are making swords on a regular basis. For those few involved in katana production today, the samurai blade embodies the supremely honed workmanship for which Japanese craftsmen are renowned across the world.

Hamakawa at 33 is one of the youngest and plans to take on an apprentice himself one day.

Working two to three days a week in his workshop, Hamakawa says he could make two swords a month, but he usually only makes them to order, meaning he makes just a handful every year.

Buyers are most often Japanese or foreign collectors with a love of traditional Japanese swords. Some customers even buy his swords to display in their homes as a symbol of spiritual protection. A single, high-quality katana sword can cost anywhere from one million yen (US $9,000) to several million yen.

A soft-spoken, humble young man, Hamakawa says he wants more people to know about and appreciate the beauty of Japanese swords. He occasion-

ally holds workshops and viewings for visitors to Wakayama who are interested in seeing the swordmaking process first-hand. For a chance to visit him at his workshop and watch him forge his blades, contact Koyasanroku DMO*.

Follow Hamakawa Sadasumi: Website: japan-katana.com Facebook: hamakawakatana Koyasanroku DMO Tel: +81-736-33-3922 Email : info@koya36.com

*Official Destination Management Organization of the Koya Region

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Health Benefits

PERSIMMON PARADISE We all know the saying that an apple a day keeps the doctor away. Well, in Japan, when the persimmons are red, the doctor becomes blue…

TEXT: KS

T

he saying is thanks to the many and varied health benefits of persimmons (kaki). The round, orange-colored fruits are the symbol of autumn in Japan, so now is the time to take full advantage!

Originally from China, persimmon trees have been grown for thousands of years and the Hashimoto region of Wakayama is one of the biggest persimmon growing areas of the country. Known for their sweet, honey-like flavor, premium kaki are highly prized in Japan.

Recipe Tips Not only are persimmons great for our bodies, they are super tasty and pair well with both sweet and savory foods. Here are some delicious ideas for incorporating kaki into your daily cooking.

PHOTOS: KOYASANROKU DMO

• Top your morning yogurt or oatmeal with fresh or cooked persimmon for a burst of natural sweetness.

• Broil persimmon and serve with baked Brie cheese for a tasty appetizer.

• Slice kaki onto a salad for extra flavor (pairs particularly well with baby spinach and ricotta cheese).

• Bake persimmons with chicken or meat for a unique flavor combination.

• Roast them in the oven and drizzle with honey for a tasty and healthy dessert.

• Grate fresh persimmon and mix it into muffin, bread or cake mix.

• Combine with berries and citrus fruits for a delicious fruit salad.

“Hashimoto city, lying in the shadow of Mt. Koya, experiences the perfect weather conditions for growing sweet persimmons.

Warm with a little rain, with sunny afternoons and cool nights. We pride ourselves on producing only the finest persimmons on our farm, monitoring their exposure to sunlight and ensuring the perfect firmness of the fruit. Aside from freshly picked fruit, I recommend Wakayama Persimmon Pudding as a way to enjoy the persimmon at their best. Join us in December for a special Persimmon event!*” – Kouhei Ohara

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

• Loaded with nutrients Persimmons pack an impressive vitamin punch with one serving providing 55% of the RDI (recommended daily intake) of Vitamin A, 22% of Vitamin C, and 30% of manganese.

• A powerful source of antioxidants Kaki are an excellent source of powerful antioxidants like carotenoids and flavonoids. Diets rich in these compounds have been linked to a reduced risk of certain diseases, including heart disease and diabetes.

• Great for gut health Persimmons contain loads of fiber, which is good for digestion, containing almost 20% of the daily requirement in a single serving. Fiberrich foods like persimmons can help lower cholesterol, reduce blood sugar levels and keep your digestive system healthy. Plus, fiber helps fuel the “good bacteria” in your intestines, which enhances your digestive and overall health. *A tip from Hashimoto persimmon farmer Kouhei Ohara: eating at least two persimmons before a night on the booze is an effective hangover prevention!

Ksfarm, Hashimoto, Wakayama Website: ks-farm.com Email: info@koya36.com

*Details on kansaiscene.com

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Teeming with vitamins, minerals, and fiber, here are some of the health perks of eating persimmons.

WAKAYAMA PERSIMMON PUDDING

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Tamba Sasayama Traditional, yet Innovative!!

剾

Tamba Sasayama, a member city of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network, maintains its traditional culture and rustic nature, yet embraces new ideas and possibilities allowing innovative interactions to burgeon in every corner of the city.

Blessed with rich culture, nature, and culinary delights, Tamba Sasayama makes your stay magical!

Kasuga shrine Noh stage

Tamba Sasyama black beans

Maruyama village

Tourism ambassadors

Mascot character Maruino

Ta m b a S a s a y a m a To u r i s t S t a t i o n Visit us to gain the latest information on sightseeing, local events, accommodation, and more! English speaking staff members are always stationed here to welcome you!!

Ayabe JCT Fukuchiyama

Wadayama Takeda

Kyoto

Li ne

Lin e

Sasayamaguchi

JR Sannomiya Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station

TannanSasayamaguchi JCT Kyoto

JR e in aL m iya ch ku Fu

JR Bant an Line

about 80 min by Train

TambaSasayama-city

JR K ako gaw a

https://visit.sasayama.jp/en

Yokawa JCT

Himeji Kakogawa

Miki JCT

Osaka

From Kobe

Kobe Tennoji UK B

KI X

FREE Wi - Fi

Sakaishi

Wakayama

about 90 min by Car Kobe → Shinkobe Tunnel → Hanshin Expressway Kitakobe Line / Minotani IC → Rokkoukita Tollway → Chugoku Expressway / KobeSanda IC → Maizuru Wakasa Expressway / Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC

ITM Kobe Suita JCT JCT Arima Onsen Nishinomiya Amagasaki Sumiyoshi Osaka

Akashi

Osaka → Hanshin Expressway → Ikeda IC → Chugoku Expressway → Yokawa IC → Maizuru Wakase Expressway → Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC

From Kobe

Sonobe

Tanikawa

Hyogo

about 60 min by Train JR Osaka Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station

about 50 min by Car Ayabe

n

UR L

Obama

Fukui

ai

kanko_div@city.sasayama.hyogo.jp

JR Maizuru Line

M

Email

Higashimaizuru

JR Sanin Main Line

n

079-590-2077

TKG

ni

Tel

From Osaka

Toyooka

Sa

165-1 Ozawa, Sasayama, Hyogo, 669-2212 Directly linked from JR Sasayamaguchi Station

Access

Kinosaki Onsen

JR

Address

Botan nabe (wildbore hot pot)

Nara

about 110 min by Train JR Kyoto Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station

about 60 min by Car Kobe → Route 9 → Kyoto Jyukan Highway → Route 372

TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS IN KANSAI

紅 葉

Noh & Momiji Aria Aoyama from The Japan Institute for Culture & International Exchange sat down with Yoshie Yamamoto from the acclaimed Yamamoto Noh Theater in Osaka to discuss Noh and its relationship with momiji autumn leaves.

TEXT: KS PRESENTED BY THE JAPAN INSTITUTE FOR CULTURE & INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

See a Noh Play SPECIAL NOH PLAY “MOMIJIGARI” (AUTUMN LEAVE HUNTING) WITH SUBTITLES IN ENGLISH Oct 25, Yamamoto Noh Theater, Osaka

PHOTOS: © YAMAMOTO NOH THEATER

MYSTERIOUS WOMEN TURN INTO DEMONS IN THE PLAY MOMIJI-GARI

Yamamoto: Aria, have you ever heard of the “maple front”?

Aoyama: Yes, the autumn foliage front, akin to the spring cherry blossom front. The cherry blossom front travels from south to north, while the maple foliage front travels from north to south.

Beginning in Hokkaido in early October, it works its way down the country until the last leaves turn red in Kagoshima in early December. I think Japan must be the only country that has a maple foliage and cherry blossom forecast!

Japanese cherry blossoms have been renowned internationally for some time, but recently it is attracting attention for its stunning autumn leaves too.

Y: It is a gift from Japan’s topography and nature. Since the Manyo era, Japanese people have celebrated the autumn “momiji” lit. red leaves. There are actually two different kanji characters that can be pronounced “momiji”. Maple leaves that turn yellow in the fall (黄葉) and those that turn red (紅葉). In popular literature of the time, yellow maple songs were more popular, but recently red maple are more popular in Japan.

A: I know there are Noh plays with cherry blossom themes, but are there plays that have autumn leaf themes too?

Y: Yes there are! “Tatsuta” and “Momiji-gari” (lit. autumn leaves hunting).

A: Ah, “Tatsuta” refers to the Tatsuta River in Mt. Ikoma doesn’t it, a famous mountain for autumn leaves?

Y: Aria, you know very well! The autumn leaves of the Tatsuta River are famous, and their beauty likened to the exquisite “Nishiki” silk textiles produced in Kyoto. The play is a story about

Time: 7–9pm • Admission: ¥4,000 • nohtheater.com • Reservations: ticket@nohtheater.com • Tel: 06-6943-9454

the beauty of the autumn leaves of the Tatsuta River, and the Princess Tatsuta, the god of Tatsuta River who dances to bring peace to the country.

A: And “Momiji-gari” – is the popular pursuit of autumn leaves ‘hunting’ isn’t it. A custom that Japanese people have enjoyed since the Heian period over a thousand years ago.

Y: Yes, that’s right. The Noh play “Momiji-gari” begins in the mountains where beautiful women hold a feast in honour of the autumn leaves. Koremori Taira, a brave samurai passes by during a deer hunt, and is proffered with sake by the women. He drinks and soon falls asleep experiencing a dream in which a god appears and tells him that the beautiful women are in fact incarnations of demons! When he wakes up, sure enough the women transform into demons and attack him, but he is able to vanquish them. The play is set in Mount Togakushi, a famous place for autumn leaves in Nagano prefecture, and based on an ancient local legend. It warns of the age-old vulnerability men display concerning alcohol and beautiful women! “Momiji-gari” is a very popular Noh play, and has since been adapted into Bunraku and Kabuki productions.

A: Hehe. Always be careful with beautiful women and sake! I love the way Noh incorporates nature and real-life lessons into its rich narratives.

Y: Aria, I can’t wait for the autumn leaves. Let’s go to autumn leaves hunting together!

A: I’m looking forward to it.

EVENINGS OF TRADITIONAL JAPANESE PERFORMING ARTS IN OSAKA Yamamoto Noh Theater, Osaka Enjoy four traditional performing arts in one night.

Sep 7: (Chikuzen-Biwa, Comicmonologue with Shamisen, Narrative Ballads, Raugo) Oct 12: (Noh play, Kyogen, Story telling, Rakugo) Nov 30: (Noh play, Kyogen, Narrative Ballads, Rakugo) Dec 31: (New Year’s Eve Special) Time: 7–9pm • Admission: ¥3,500–¥5,500 • noh-theater.com • Reservations: ticket@nohtheater.com • Tel: 06-6943-9454

A BEAUTIFUL HAND PAINTED FAN USED IN NOH PERFORMANCES

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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TRAVEL

FALLING FOR AUTUMN IN

Ibaraki

For a memorable autumn getaway filled with fall foliage and stunning seascapes, head for the mountains and coastlines of Northern Ibaraki.

TEXT: LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

ROKAKUDO PAGODA PERCHED ON THE SHORES OF THE IZURA COAST, THIS HEXAGONAL STRUCTURE IS AN INSTAGRAM HOTSPOT

PHOTOS: LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA

A

lthough Ibaraki Prefecture is part of the Kanto region, once you go north of Ibaraki, you enter Fukushima Prefecture and the Tohoku area, and perhaps as a result, the charms of Ibaraki sometimes get overshadowed by higher-profile members of Kanto’s seven prefectures.

Flanked by the Pacific Ocean and replete with mountains, waterfalls, and forests, Ibaraki offers a wealth of natural beauty.

The northern region of the prefecture comes into its own in autumn, making it well worth a visit at this time of year.

Northern Ibaraki is an area best explored by car and the peak season for foliage varies from year to year but is generally mid-November. Two lovely foliage spots with similar names but different vibes are Hananuki Gorge and Hanazono Gorge. The more well-known of these is Hananuki, which is officially part of the city of Takahagi. The area runs from the Hananuki Dam to the Kotakizawa Camping Ground, but the most popular section for travelers is centered around the picturesque wooden suspension bridge of Shiomidaki Tsuribashi.

It doesn’t take long to reach the bridge from the parking lot, and once over the bridge, you can continue on a short hiking course through the forest,

which loops back to the beginning. On peak leaf-viewing weekends, there are several vendors selling various snacks and drinks, which make a good option for a casual lunch in a festival-like atmosphere In contrast, Hanazono Gorge, which comes under Kita-Ibaraki City and is about 40 minutes north of Hananuki, seems to be a bit of a hidden gem. You will likely only share it with a handful of other leaf-peepers when visiting on a weekend during peak fall-leaf season.

Next to the parking lot is the picturesque little Hanazono Shrine, and there are plenty of photo opportunities in the immediate vicinity with the magnificent trees, a meandering stream, and small waterfalls. If you’re feeling more energetic, a hiking trail up into the forest begins just past the parking lot.

There are no options for food nearby, but the shrine has a vending machine for drinks.

One of the advantages of northern Ibaraki is that you can easily move from forests and waterfalls to ocean vistas.

Once you’ve had your fill of foliage, head over to the Izura Coast at the very northern edge of the prefecture for fresh, salty sea air and some unusual architecture. “Izura” means “five inlets”

HANAZONO SHRINE PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES ABOUND IN HANAZONO GORGE

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HITACHI SEASIDE PARK FUKURODA FALLS

THE FLUFFY RED BUSHES OF THE SUMMER CYPRESS ARE A POPULAR AUTUMN DRAW

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lenged and inspired the younger artists he mentored to break new ground.

English audio guides are available at the museum, and the on-site Camellia Café offers light meals and drinks.

When driving along the coast of northern Ibaraki, a great little place to stop for lunch or afternoon coffee is Sea-ne, a sunny café located at the beachside Unoshima Villa pension in Hitachi. A family-run business, it was completely rebuilt after being destroyed by the 2011 tsunami. While the Tohoku area bore the brunt of the damage from the tsunami, this area of Ibaraki suffered, too. The café uses local vegetables and seafood to create their dishes, and homemade cakes are also on offer.

When you’re done, take a walk along the private beach in front.

If you want to spend more time in northern Ibaraki and don’t mind the crowds, the Fukuroda Falls in the Daigo region are worth a visit. Impressive both in height (120 m) and width (73 m), they are acclaimed as one of Japan’s “top three falls” and draw a lot of visitors at any time of the year, but particularly in the fall foliage season. A 20-minute drive from there is the Tsukimachi Waterfall, which is a lot less crowded. The interest-

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

ing aspect here is that you can walk behind the cascade for a unique view.

A little closer to Tokyo is the Hitachi Seaside Park, which is popular with all ages for its amusement rides and expansive flower fields. In autumn, an unusual flower called the kochia (summer cypress) becomes the star of the show. Its heads turn into fluffy red balls that look a little like minor characters in a Muppet movie. Autumn cosmos are also in bloom around the same time, so there are plenty of photo opportunities here, but note the peak for the flowers is usually October, so it won’t overlap with the foliage spots in the area. The park is huge and if you end up in an overflow parking lot, be prepared to do a lot of walking. If you’re planning to visit on a weekend, arrive as early as you can to secure a parking spot. KS

GETTING THERE From Shin-Osaka Station or Kyoto Station, take the shinkansen to Tokyo Station. Then take the Limited Express Hitachi or Limited Express Tokiwa to Mito Station.

Finally, transfer to the JR Joban line to Takahagi Station.

PHOTOS: LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA EXCEPT FUKURODA FALLS © ISTOCK.COM/JIROBKK

and perched on a cliff is the area’s most famous building, the six-sided Rokkakudo pagoda. It was designed and built in 1905 by the artist, writer, and scholar Tenshin Okakura (1862–1913) as a space where he and his students could hold tea ceremonies and contemplate.

Okakura’s admiration for Chinese culture and architecture is evident in the design. The original was washed away in the tsunami that hit much of northern Japan in 2011 but was painstakingly recreated to honor the original design and reopened in the spring of 2012.

To get the full effect of the beauty of Rokkakudo against the backdrop of the ocean, turn left back on the main road and walk 500 meters to Izura Misaki Park to take in the view from the top of the hill.

It’s also well worth visiting the nearby Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art to learn more about his many talents.

Tenshin Okakura was born in Yokohama and his interest in art, philosophy and other cultures lead to travel around the world. He fell in love with the Izura area and settled here in later life, promoting his students and their families to join him. His writings in English helped to spread knowledge about Japanese art and culture to the West, and he chal-

ONE OF JAPAN’S TOP THREE WATERFALLS

PHOTO: SILVER FLOWER-SHAPED PLATTER WITH GILT DESIGN © THE 71ST ANNUAL EXHIBITION OF SHOSO-IN TREASURES

WHAT’S ON

F

rom Saturday, October 26 until Thursday, November 14, the 71st Annual Exhibition of Shoso-in Treasures will be held at the Nara National Museum in commemoration of the enthronement of the new Emperor, with special support from Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper.

This year’s Shoso-in exhibition will be held for three days longer than past exhibitions in celebration of this special occasion, and will last 20 days in total. A selection of 41 objects will be on display— Shoso-in treasures conveying histories of cultural exchange across the Silk Road.

It will be the first time in 20 years that the whole six-panel folding screen of Torige Ritsujo-no-Byobu (with bird feathers decorating the painting of a lady under a tree) will be displayed, which depicts a beautiful woman dressed in the Tang style. The name derives from the Yamadori mountain bird feather brocade that was used for the trees and clothing parts.

It is a masterpiece representative of the Tang Culture.

The Red-Lacquered Keyaki Cabinet with Fine-Grain Pattern that has been passed

down for generations since Emperor Tenmu’s times will also be on display.

Among the pieces likely draw high attention is the treasured largest silver platter in Shoso-in, the Kingin-no-Kaban. It is a silver flower-shaped platter with a deer at its core, and ornamented with glass balls hanging around the rim.

The treasures of Shoso-in started when the Emperor Shomu passed away and Empress Komyo offered the late emperor’s beloved items to the Great Buddha in Nara’s Todaiji Temple. A shoso in ancient times served as a warehouse repository and Shoso-in was one of these. Currently, this is the only remaining shoso at Todaiji Temple, and measures 33 meters in length, and 14 meters in height. The treasures were housed in large hitsu cabinets made of cedarwood and the humidity levels were strictly monitored. With the start of the Meiji era in the late 19th century, the Shoso-in was placed under the protection and administration of the Imperial Household Agency and the Meiji government. In 1955, the treasures were moved to a reinforced concrete storehouse where they have remained ever since.

71st Annual Exhibition of Shoso-in Treasures 御即位記念第７１回正倉院展

OCT 26–NOV 14 • NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM OPEN: Daily from 9am–6pm (Open until 8pm Fri, Sat, Sun & national holidays. Last admission is 30 minutes before closing.) • ADMISSION: ¥1,100 for adults; ¥700 for highschool and university students; ¥400 for elementary and junior-highschool students. Prices are reduced by ¥100 for advance tickets (on sale until Oct 25) or for groups of at least 20. Admission is FREE on Nov 14. “Autumn late” discount tickets to visit the museum 90 minutes before closing can be purchased 2.5 hours before it closing time.

They are priced at ¥800, ¥500, and ¥200, respectively. An advance pair of tickets for an adult visiting with a child of elementary or juniorhigh-school age costs ¥1,100 • TEL: 050-5542-8600 • www.narahaku. go.jp/english

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BUSINESS TALK

HI-TECH HAIR CARE MEETS HI-TECH INSTALLATION ART

TEXT: KS

K

S caught up with Masanao Fuyuhiro, CEO of Ifing Co., Ltd. – the company behind regenerative haircare treatment brand Tokio Inkarami, at the immersive art project ‘Digitized Forest’ in Kyoto.

We were joined by Toshiyuki Inoko, founder of the art collective behind the project – teamLab, and learned how the unlikely collaboration between the two came about.

KS: First of all, what connection is there between your globally renowned hair care range and a cutting edge art project in Kyoto?

Fuyuhiro: Well, we all have different inspirations and influences, but two that have appealed to me personally, are sports and the arts. We sponsor many international sporting competitions, including figure skating, gymnastics, and major league baseball. These sports all require a high degree of mastery,

26

creativity, and all share a certain athletic beauty. They also have an established history, while projecting a strong vision of the future, always exploring and innovating. This is also true for the arts that we sponsor or to be specific, the work of Inoko-san and his teamLab collective.

This is now our second year running to sponsor their Digitized Forest event here in Kyoto.

I was initially struck by their Borderless exhibition in Tokyo. It made me realise that in today’s socially-connected world, experience is not limited to the individual. The artworks are experienced secondhand too, in some kind of shared experience, via the millions of photos uploaded to social media networks. I really feel that it is the thing now, and that TeamLab captures that nowness in its very essence. I like to think that Tokio Inkarami is also at the forefront of innovation in our own field.

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

TOKIO INKARAMI SPONSORS TEAMLAB’S DIGITIZED FOREST EVENT AT KYOTO’S WORLD HERITAGE SHIMOGAMO SHRINE

KS: Tokio Inkarami has come to be considered something akin to a miracle product in the haircare industry around the globe, with top stylists, world renowned magazines, and undercover beauty reviewers all raving about it. Can you tell us a bit about the brand?

Fuyuhiro: If I had to describe it in short, I would say that it is the world’s finest hair treatment - combining the best of Japanese technical prowess and beauty knowhow. When I started this brand in 2003, I already had a team of researchers working on the product but it took us nearly 10 years of research to perfect what is now a patented technology.

In just 2 years it became the top selling product amongst salons in Japan and now is found in many of the top salons across the globe, including the salon at the Ritz Hotel in Paris, Hotel Crillon, Four Seasons Moscow, just to name a few.

PHOTOS: © TEAMLAB

Why global hair care brand Tokio Inkarami supports the arts.

PHOTOS: KS

KS: What do you think has made your product so successful?

Fuyuhiro: Well, I must humbly say that success is yet to come… but what I believe is at the core of what has been achieved so far, is having had the privilege of hearing the opinions of top stylists across Japan, to know what they were really seeking. So we were able to create a product that fulfilled a real need, and market it effectively. We didn’t have a large sales team, but relied instead on visiting top salons directly and focused on bringing this product to a very targeted audience. I think this was key in becoming a top domestic brand in such a short time.

In terms of the international market, though we always had a vision to bring our brand to a global audience (hence the name ‘Tokio’ as in Tokyo), originally I thought that we would mostly appeal to the Asian market. We began in Korea, but actually next was Paris!

With such a tradition of beauty and fashion I didn’t think that our products would be relevant to the French market.

But to my surprise, we found there was actually an opportunity for Asian beauty products in the country. We developed our treatment for Japanese hair, and the stresses of the Japananese climate, but the product also worked wonders on westerners hair as well. To the extent that it has been dubbed something of a revolution.

KS: You mentioned you chose the name ‘Tokio’ as internationally it represented something Japanese.

Fuyuhiro: Indeed. When I was thinking about names, we already had the vision of making it a globally renowned brand, and I had a choice of two names in mind. One was Tokio and the other Kyoto - where it all started, and where I grew up. Internationally Tokyo and Kyoto are the most well known Japanese cities, but I eventually I chose Tokio since as I was growing up, I considered Kyoto to be a bit too conservative.

Now I realise that Kyoto is a guardian of traditions, and that what Kyoto has preserved, appeals to the world.

KS: Inoko-san. Your amazingly immersive teamLab Borderless experience in Odaiba has attracted record break-

MASANAO FUYUHIRO (L) AND TEAMLAB’S TOSHIYUKI INOKO (R)

ing audiences. Could you tell us a bit about it?

Inoko: Actually, we have just been named the world’s most popular singleartist destination, surpassing the Van Gogh museum and the Dali Museum that have long held the top spots. We had over 2 million people visit in the last year since we opened!

The whole museum is literally without borders, playing an essential role in connecting the sixty something works that are housed there. It’s an immersive space where people are able to wander freely. We seem to have created a world in which so many borders exist, but actually it is an invented concept in our brains. It may be that we humans cannot comprehend the world in its continuity, wholeness - a possible limitation of our brains. I wanted people to experience a space that transcends borders.

Fuyuhiro: This borderless concept is also a theme of the Digitized Forest project too, but in a slightly different way.

Inoko: Yes, just as people tend to not be able to relate to the continuum of space, but the same is true for time. We can only relate to the time that we have lived, with the rest being something we learn or read about. We can comprehend 100 years intellectually, but our bodies struggle to comprehend without direct

experience. This is why I chose to bring our work to the UNESCO World Heritage Shimogamo shrine, a place steeped in history and one of the oldest shrines in Japan, its landscape shaped over centuries. Many of the trees are over 600 years old! I wanted to create a place that allows us to go beyond the borders of the moment and become part of that moment in continuum, where the feelings and impressions we hold merge into the space itself. Kyoto is lucky to have many places where such experience is possible and we are appreciative of sponsors like Tokio Inkarami that make it possible for us to hold such events.

More info Digitized Forest runs until Sep 02 at Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto, but teamLab’s Borderless exhibition can be enjoyed year round.

MORI BUILDING DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: EPSON TEAMLAB BORDERLESS Access: Aomi Station, Odaiba, Tokyo • Open: Weekdays 10am–7pm; Sat, Sun & Hol 10am–9pm • Tickets: https://borderless. teamlab.art

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SHOPPING

MIKI HOUSE

Wonderland

TEXT: KS

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

© MIKI HOUSE

Make your way to the headquarters of Osaka’s international childrenswear brand for a one-stop shopping extravaganza.

PHOTOS: DANIEL LEE

emblazoned with the white MIKI HOUSE logo remain the go-to items for nostalgic shoppers.

The sheer range of items they produce is astonishing. There is everything from gorgeous baby shoes, luxury cashmere duffle coats, and babygrows to picture books, strollers, and even baby baths, covering sizes from newborn to nine years old. Everything is designed and produced to the highest quality and almost entirely in Japan. The attention to detail is apparent everywhere. Their babygrows are manufactured from the softest cotton sourced from the West Indies and close not with buttons or snaps, but with silk ribbons, allowing for easy adjustment. The logos on their classic tees are not printed but embroidered with extremely fine stitch. It is a hallmark of the MIKI HOUSE ethos that the clothes must not only look appealing, but last.

Their line of summer yukata and jinbei (traditional summer clothing) feature Japanese motifs and patterns and prove extremely popular with international customers. Although they operate stores across Japan and in key locations overseas, a major advantage of shopping at their Yao main store is that they can keep nearly all of their items on display year-round. Whilst browsing seasonal items for autumn and winter, you can also find off-season items for the following spring and summer.

There is free parking onsite, a nursing room, resting area, and multilingual staff on hand to assist international visitors. They even offer free one-onone workshops for expectant mothers on how to dress and bathe a newborn.

© MIKI HOUSE

O

ne of the first things you notice when emerging from the Yaominami subway station is the large 7-Eleven across the street. Glance a few buildings to your right, however, and taking center stage is the impressive home of Japanese children’s clothing brand MIKI HOUSE. The striking concrete building was completed in 1991 to the exacting standards of CEO and founder Koichi Kimura, whose passion and vision has allowed MIKI HOUSE to grow from strength to strength since its inception in 1971 (read our interview with Mr. Kimura in issue #220). One of his requests, much to the chagrin of his employees, was to use the basement space not as a car park, but as a luxury showroom.

Open five days a week from 11am– 6pm, you enter down a set of redcarpeted stairs and find yourself at the center atrium of a semicircular layout of elegant department-store style boutiques, each dedicated to a different line of kids’ items from shoes, babywear, books and toys, and even formal wear.

Each section is interconnected, creating an immersive MIKI HOUSE wonderland experience.

The MIKI HOUSE line of cute yet high-quality children’s wear has been a stalwart of kids’ wardrobes for generations. It retains a dedicated clientele eager to see their children and grandchildren dressed in the same brand that they themselves once wore. Whilst they have introduced various sub-brands to cater for contemporary trends, such as the American-casual line Double.B and the playful Hot Biscuits range, the simple red and navy Essentials range

Whether shopping for your own family, or for gifts for family and friends, MIKI HOUSE is your one-stop shop for the highest quality kidswear. KS

MIKI HOUSE MAIN FLAGSHIP STORE 1-76-2 Wakabayashi-cho, Yao City, Osaka Open: 11am–6pm Closed: Wed & Thu Tel: +81-72-920-2055 Access: Tanimachi Subway line, Yaominami Stn, 1-min walk *When coming by car please use the MIKI HOUSE Main Office parking lot *All major credit cards, WeChat, and AliPay are accepted

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Venture deep into the mountains of Nagano Prefecture and discover the salty secrets of Oshika-mura.

TEXT: KS

N

estled deep within mountainous Nagano Prefecture, four hours by car from Osaka or three hours from Tokyo, is the small village of Oshika-mura, literally meaning “big deer village.”

Located between the Ina Mountains and the Akaishi Mountains in the Southern Alps, this remote, picturesque village where the deer outnumber the people, was selected in 2005 by a Japanese NPO as one of “The Most Beautiful Villages in Japan.”

Entering the alpine village, there is no question as to why. It’s like stepping onto a film set of an old samurai movie.

A picture of nostalgic rural charm, yet thankfully minus any sword-wielding bandits. It is not scenic beauty that has kept Oshika-mura on the radar, however, but kabuki theater and salt.

The former has been passed down through generations for over 300 years

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and has been designated by the national government as an Important Intangible Folk Culture of Japan. Free performances are staged twice a year within the grounds of Taiseki Shrine.

The latter has been bubbling up through the mountains as saltwater hot springs for thousands of years. At an elevation of 750m above sea level, and so far from the ocean, it is an extremely rare natural phenomenon. To this day, there remains no definitive scientific explanation as to how it got there.

The village can be enjoyed year-round but is particularly beautiful in the autumn when the forest is alive with color and the weather a little cooler. If you time it right, you may even be able to enjoy the seasonal kabuki performance on Oct 19. Take a detour from the tourist trail and explore this unique destination away from it all.

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ARTISAN SALT

YamashioKan not only welcomes guests to its traditional inn but is also the sole producer of Oshikamura’s rare “mountain salt.”

Production is a labor-intensive task. The brine needs to be simmered from dusk to dawn to evaporate the moisture and extract the salt, with only a meager 30g of salt obtainable from each liter of water.

With such a low return per volume and its unsuitability for mass production, it is a rare commodity, making it a great souvenir.

PHOTOS: © YAMASHIOKAN

NAGANO’S MYSTERIOUS SALTWATER SPRINGS

Where to stay YAMASHIOKAN 山塩館

One of only two hot-spring resorts in the village, this traditional family-run ryokan offers both comfortable, well-appointed Western- and Japanese-style rooms, complete with an evening meal, breakfast, and access to its hot-spring baths. Enjoy a soothing dip in either the cedarwood or stone bath, letting the salty water work its mineral magic on any weary muscles. Ambient lighting accentuates the relaxing mood, and large windows offer unrestricted views of the peaceful woodland surroundings beyond.

The hearty meals, prepared by the whole family, are crafted with loving care using local recipes passed down through generations. Dishes feature locally sourced deer and game and other seasonal local produce, such as wild mountain vegetables during the summer months. Vegetarians can be catered for with advance notice. yamashio.com

Noodle Lunch SURUGI NOUEN FARM するぎ農園

Surugi Nouen Farm offers soba noodles made from home-grown buckwheat that are milled and prepared in-house for optimum texture and flavor. They are served with delicious side dishes including seasonal vegetable tempura, homemade tofu salad, and a special sweet-and-sour stew prepared with Oshikamura soybeans. Each dish is made from locally sourced produce and accentuated with Oshikamura’s unique mountain salt. Their organic Guatemalan cold-drip coffee is brewed for two hours and provides a welcome post-lunch coffee fix. www.osk.janis.or.jp/~kindosan

Geological Museum THE OSHIKA MUSEUM OF JAPAN MEDIAN TECTONIC LINE

PHOTOS: SHINOSUKE MINAMI

© OSHIKA-MURA TOURSIM BUREAU

大鹿村中央構造線博物館

Oshika-mura lies on the path of Japan’s largest continuous fault line—the Median Tectonic Line (MTL)—and is home to the only museum dedicated to this extraordinary geological feature in Japan. The MTL stretches from Kanto to Kyushu and was created about 100 million years ago, before the opening of the Sea of ​​Japan, when the Japanese archipelago was still part of the Asian continent. The museum contains several hundred pieces of rock specimens, along with exhibits of cross-sections of the fault and other diorama models. This is a fascinating opportunity to deepen your understanding of Japan’s tectonic geography and learn how the Japanese archipelago was formed. mtl-muse.com

Getting There Renting a car is the easiest way to get to Oshika-mura. During November, however, JR operates a special scenic line running from Toyohashi in Aichi (a stop on the Tokaido Shinkansen Kodama line) to Iida in Nagano, just 45 mins from Oshika-mura by car/taxi. See online for more details: https://japanrailandtravel.com/trains/jr-central/the-iida-line-unexplored-station-train

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What’s On  Cultural OSAKA

KISHIWADA DANJIRI FESTIVAL 岸和田だんじり祭り

Sep 14–15 • Kishiwada Stn & Surroundings Intricately carved danjiri (floats) are pulled at high speeds by teams of men around the narrow streets of the town. The highlight of this racelike parade is the yarimawashi, when the danjiri makes a 90-degree turn at an intersection. These intersections are extremely popular viewing spots and crowds of visitors cheer when a seamless turn is completed. At dusk, the danjiri are illuminated with paper lanterns making for a calm, serene atmosphere, a real contrast to the high-energy action of the day. Those interested in discovering more about the festival can visit the Kishiwada Danjiri Kaikan Museum located near Kishiwada Castle.

TIME: 6am–10pm Sep 14; 9am–10pm Sep 15 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai line, Kishiwada Stn; Nankai line, Haruki Stn • city. kishiwada.osaka.jp/site/danjiri

What’s On Guide 32

Osaka OSAKA

FUTON DAIKO – FESTIVAL OF FLOATING DRUMS 百舌鳥八幡宮秋祭り ふと ん太鼓

Sep 14–15 • Mozu Hachimangu Shrine, Osaka The Futon Drum Festival is a popular autumn event held throughout Sakai City as well as other areas in Osaka and Hyogo. The festival floats are quite distinctive; there is a roof made from red futons forming an inverted pyramid, and a Japanese drum is placed underneath.

Each float weighs about three tonnes and more than 50 men carry it in the processions. On both days, each participating neighborhood will take turns carrying the futon drum floats.

TIME: 11am–10:30pm Sep 14; 9:30am–10pm Sep 15 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Hanwa Line, Mozu Stn, 10-min walk • mozu8. com

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OSAKA

YABUSAME SHINJI – HORSE STUNT CEREMONY 流鏑馬神事

Oct 25 • Osaka Temmangu Shrine, Osaka In this exciting religious event continued since the 15th century, dressed horses and riders perform stunts in front of Osaka Temmangu Shrine. The rider, typically a priest of the shrine, shoots arrows in four different directions, then mounts the horse and attempts to hit three targets.

noon and 3pm. Thousands of costumed people will parade around the park while dancing to traditional music. Enjoy Korean and Japanese cuisine and don’t miss the chance to try on a traditional folk costume.

A child-friendly area with Wasso-related activities will be available.

TIME: 10:30am–5pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Line, Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn, Exit 10, 5-min walk • wasso.net

Kyoto

TIME: 3pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Osakatemmangu Stn • tenjinsan.com/index.html

KYOTO

OSAKA

SEIRYU-E – DRAGON PARADE

SHITENNOJI WASSO

青龍会

四天王寺ワッソ

Nov 3 • Naniwa-no-miya ato Park, Osaka Wasso is a spectacular carnival commemorating the cultural exchange between Japan and other Asian countries.

One highlight is the grand parade of ancient Chinese, Korean, and Japanese courtiers, which is scheduled between

Sep 14–15 • Kiyomizu Temple & Surroundings, Kyoto According to one of the legends of Kiyomizu Temple, a blue dragon (Seiryu), an incarnation of Kannon, flies to drink from the waterfall every night. At this event, with an 18-meterlong figure of the blue dragon leading the way,

a variety of performers featuring elaborate costumes parade through the grounds and the surrounding temple town, praying for peace and expelling bad luck.

TIME: 2pm–3:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Gionshijo Stn, bus to Kiyomizumichi • monzenkai.com/seiryue.html

KYOTO

HYAKKI YAGYO – NIGHT PARADE OF 100 DEMONS 一条百鬼夜行

Oct 19 • Taishogun Shopping Street Legend has it that, once upon a time, 100 yokai (supernatural beings) paraded through the Taishogun shopping street. To commemorate the tale, crowds of enthusiasts flood the street in their elaborate yokai disguises to interact with their fellow supernaturals. For those longing for more ghosts and monsters, spooky trinkets are on sale at the flea market on adjacent streets.

TIME: 6pm–7pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keifuku Electric Railroad (Randen), Kitano-Hakubaicho Stn, 5-min walk • kyoto-taisyogun.com

What’s On  Cultural

See Kansaifinder.com for more

OSAKA

SAKAI FESTIVAL 堺まつり

Oct 19–20 • Sakai Stn & Surroundings Held annually since 1974, this festival has become one of the three biggest festivals of Sakai City. There is a pre-parade event on the 19th, and on the 20th, the 7000-strong Grand Parade transforms the streets into a colorful celebration with folk costumes from around the world, folk dances, bicycle and unicycle shows, matchlock gun salutes, and more. On both days, a large-scale tea ceremony takes place where visitors can casually experience the world of Japanese tea at an outdoor venue or in a tatami room. Local Sakai souvenirs will be on sale at the Nambanichi Market happening alongside the festival.

TIME: 4:15pm–9pm Oct 19; 10am–5pm Oct 20 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai line, Sakai Stn; Nankai Koya line, Sakaihigashi Stn • sakai-tcb.or.jp/s-matsuri

KYOTO

KURAMA FIRE FESTIVAL 鞍馬の火祭り

Oct 22 • Yuki Shrine In this ancient ceremony, which first began as a ritual to greet the arrival of the deity of Yuki Shrine, families light bonfires and the flaming torches are carried in a procession.

Kurama is located in the mountainous area of northern Kyoto City. At 6pm, large flaming torches are lit in front of neighborhood homes. As children parade with smaller torches, men carry the larger torches that weigh up to about 80 kilograms and require more than two people to carry.

The ceremony officially ends the following day when the two portable shrines are returned to Yuki-jinja.

TIME: 6pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Eizan Densha line, Kurama Stn • yukijinjya.jp/himaturi.html

KYOTO

FESTIVAL OF THE AGES 時代祭

Oct 26 • Heian Shrine, Kyoto The colorful, costumefilled Jidai Matsuri is one of Kyoto’s three largest festivals. It celebrates the city’s long history and

fascinating traditional culture. The highlight of the day is the Jidai Gyoretsu (Historic Pageant) that follows a mikoshi (portable shrine) and an assembly of 2,000 costume-clad paraders wearing clothes representing various eras of Kyoto’s 1,200-year history. The parade starts at noon from Kyoto Gosho (Kyoto Imperial Palace) and proceeds for 4.6 kilometers along Oike Street and Sanjo Street, arriving finally at Heian Jingu at around 2:30pm. There are plenty of photo opportunities for spectators as the line of parading people stretches over such a long distance that it takes more than an hour for the entire procession to pass one spot.

This festival is an excellent chance to get a close look at traditional costumes and accessories of the people of Kyoto throughout the ages.

TIME: 12 Noon (Imperial Palace) (postponed in case of rain) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kyoto Subway Karasuma line, Marutamachi Stn (Imperial Palace); Kyoto Subway Tozai line, Higashiyama Stn, 15-min walk (Heian Shrine) • heianjingu. or.jp

KYOTO

TENGU GOBLIN FEST 天狗の宴

Nov 10 • Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, Kyoto Every year when the fall leaves turn, the magical Japanese creature called the tengu comes down from Mt. Atago to Otagi Nenbutsuji, and a ritual to ward off evil spirits is performed. Shooting arrows in the air and loudly beating wooden clappers, five tengu—one bluefaced, one gold-faced, others multicolored—work vigorously to scare away the evil spirits. There will be a taiko drumming performance given by children before the ritual begins. There are also 1,200 Buddhist stone statues to see in this temple.

TIME: 1pm–2:30pm • ADMISSION: ¥300 adults, concessions • ACCESS: JR Saga Arashiyama Stn, bus to Otagidera-mae • otagiji.com

HYOGO

NISHINOMIYA FESTIVAL 例祭 西宮まつり

Sep 21–23 • Nishinomiya Shrine & Surroundings A three-day celebration with a variety of rituals, ceremonies, and live performances, this event started in 2000 to honor the restoration of the city after the Great Hanshin Earthquake. On the

KYOTO

SHINSENEN KYOGEN 神泉苑狂言

Nov 1–3 • Shinsenen Temple, Kyoto In this classic Japanese performance art, masked actors entertain the audience with their animated gestures. Wearing colorful costumes and accompanied by temple bells, flutes, and taiko drums, the actors perform at the historic Shinsenen temple. Kyogen, literally meaning “mad words,” is a traditional comedy that teaches Buddhist beliefs through comic stories. Unlike more widespread kyogen styles, all the actors wear masks and play without dialog in Shinsenen Kyogen.

TIME: 6:30pm–9:30pm Nov 1; 1pm–5:30pm & 6:30pm–9:30pm Nov 2 & 3 • ADMISSION: Donations appreciated • ACCESS: Kyoto Subway Tozai line, Nijojo-mae Stn, 2-min walk • shinsenen.org

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What’s On  Cultural NARA

TAKATORI CASTLE SAMURAI FESTIVAL 第31回たかとり城まつり

Nov 23 • Takatori Tosamachinami and Surroundings, Nara This annual spectacle celebrates the history of the town and its castle. Today only the ruins of the fortress remain, but it was once reputed to be one of the three best mountain-top castles in Japan. The town will be covered in autumnal foliage, and a number of samurai-period attractions will be put on for visitors. There will be a matchlock gun demonstration, sword-drawing practice, and swordplay demonstrations.

A samurai parade with armour-clad warriors and ladies in traditional costumes will move through the neighborhood. There will be traditional dance performances and a market.

TIME: 10am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Tsubosakayama Stn, 10-min walk • sightseeing. takatori.info

HYOGO

HIMEJI CASTLE – NIGHT FANTASIES 姫路城・ナイトファンタジア おとぎ幻影伝

Nov 9–30 • Himeji Castle Enjoy a fabulous display of traditional and modern artworks at Himeji Castle. In the evening, the castle grounds will be illuminated with beautiful lighting and guests can enjoy a projection-mapping performance that narrates the historical background of the castle.

This year an arts collective that combines video, sound and light, and an artist group that creates works solely using disco mirror balls will participate in the production.

TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 adults, concessions • ACCESS: JR Himeji Stn, 20-min walk • himejijo-otogigeneiden-2019.com

21st, traditional dance performances and taiko drumming will take place.

The following day, there will be a children’s procession at 3pm, and on the 23rd, a portable-shrine parade in the streets and a boat parade on the ocean will be held at Nishinomiya’s yacht harbor.

TIME: 5pm Sep 21; 10am Sep 22 & 23

• ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hanshin line, Nishinomiya Stn, South Exit, 7-min walk • nishinomiya-ebisu. com/index.html KYOTO

CHINESE MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL 第22回 中秋節

Sep 13–16 • Kobe Nankinmachi Chinatown Kobe comes to life for the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival, also known as the Mooncake Festival. Join the festivities held at Nankin-machi, celebrating a time when the moon is at its fullest and brightest. Enjoy the atmosphere among the red and gold lanterns, have your fill of authentic Chinese cuisine, and be entertained by the plethora of cultural performances. Special culinary dishes unique to this event are served on the

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

13th for bargain prices. On the 14th and 15th, traditional music, martial arts, a lion dance, and a dragon dance will be performed.

Nankin-machi’s very own mooncakes will be available for purchase throughout the four-day event.

TIME: 5pm–8pm Sep 13; From 11am

Sep 14–16 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Hanshin line, Motomachi Stn, 5-min walk • nankinmachi.or.jp

Shiga SHIGA

HACHIMANBORI LANTERN FESTIVAL 八幡堀まつり～町並みと灯り～

Oct 12 • Omi Hachiman The historic town of Hachimanbori is famous for its picturesque canals, which will be illuminated with thousands of lanterns during this festival. Approximately 3,500 lanterns that use a combination of candles and LED lights will light up the streets and create an ambient atmosphere.

Traditional houses around the neighborhood will be converted to live music

venues, art galleries, markets, and cafes and will be open to the public free of charge.

TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus to Osugi-cho • omi8.com

SHIGA

OTSU FESTIVAL 大津祭

Oct 12–13 • Tenson Shrine & Surroundings Thirteen magnificent hikiyama floats host performances of karakuri ningyo—Japanese mechanical puppets. Often described as ‘moving museums,’ the richly decorated hikiyama, with their valuable fabric, golden carvings, and lacquerworks, are alone worth coming to see. On the 12th, the neighborhood is adorned with lanterns which are lit after dark. Locals gather to appreciate the floats as local groups play festival music. The next day, the parade starts from 9am in front of Tenson Shrine and tours the neighborhood over the course of the day.

TIME: 6pm to 9pm Oct 12; 9am–5:30pm Oct 13 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Otsu Stn, 3-min walk • otsu-matsuri.jp/home

What’s On  Cultural

See Kansaifinder.com for more

NARA

CORRIDOR OF LIGHT & RED SPIDER LILY FESTIVAL IN ASUKA 飛鳥光の回廊・彼岸花祭

Sep 21–22 • Asuka Village, Nara With the striking red spider lilies in full bloom, now is the perfect time to visit Asuka Village during the annual Red Spider Lily Festival and Corridor of Light illumination event. The two events will be held on the same days this year, so come for the brilliant red of the exotic flowers during the day, and stay for the gentle illuminations that light up the historic town at night.

Palace sites, tumuli burial mounds, and old temples scattered around the village will be illuminated with lights, candles, and lanterns after sundown.

TIME: Red Spider Lily Festival 10am–4pm; Corridor of Light 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Kashiharajingu-mae Stn & Asuka Stn • asukamura.com

SHIGA

MAIBARA HIKIYAMA FESTIVAL 米原曳山まつり

Oct 12–14 • Yutani Shrine, Shiga Exquisitely decorated hikiyama floats built around the 18th century are paraded around the town with children performing kabuki plays on them. The floats move from Maibara station to Yutani Shrine on the 12th and the kabuki and kyogen performances take place on the 13th and 14th.

TIME: 12:30pm–8:30pm Oct 12; 8:30am– 8:30pm Oct 13; 12:30pm–7pm Oct 14 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Maibara Stn • biwa.ne.jp/~hozonkai/index.htm

SHIGA

KUSATSU ILLUMINATION STREET 草津街あかり・華あかり・夢あかり

Nov 1–2 • JR Kusatsu Station & Surroundings Handmade lights will shed a soft glow on the historic streets surrounding Kusatsu Station. At multiple locations, lights created by local school children and light installations designed by young artists will be on display. Local landmarks such as the Kusatsu Inn Headquarters and Jozenji Temple will also be lit up, and the shopping arcades will trade their regular electric lights to handmade lanterns.

TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Kusatsu Stn, 5-min walk • kusatsumachiakari.net

NARA

UNEME MATSURI – LADIES OF IMPERIAL COURT FESTIVAL 采女祭り

Sep 13 • Sarusawa Pond, Nara A colorful water pageant takes place at the scenic Sarusawa Pond in Nara. This elegant boating parade featured participants dressed as ancient courtesans admiring the moon at its fullest and brightest.

Legend has it that an uneme (a lady of the imperial court) threw herself into this pond in despair after falling out of favor with the Emperor. This event also takes place to comfort the spirit of the uneme. There will be an elaborate parade of people dressed in 8th-century attire from JR Nara Station through Sanjo-dori to the pond, followed by a religious ceremony and then the boating event.

SHIGA

JAPANESE EQUESTRIAN 馬上武芸奉納祭

Nov 30 • Kamo Shrine Both rider and horse colorfully dressed in kimonos perform a variety of martial arts in this religious event at Kamo Shrine, a sacred place for horses. In the performances, a bow and arrow, naginata (a pole-shaped weapon), and flags are used. After the show, spectators can enjoy the outdoor market and a spoken-word performance on the shrine grounds.

TIME: 10:30am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus to Kamohigashi • kamo-jinjya.or.jp

TIME: 5pm-8:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Line, Nara Stn • narashikanko.or.jp/event/unemematsuri

Looking for more Events?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

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Sights & Attractions

Museums

THE MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS, OSAKA Regarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum for ceramic enthusiasts. It is located in leafy Nakanoshima next to the iconic Central Public Hall. ///dealings.lifelong.mimics • 1-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-62230055 • moco.or.jp

CUPNOODLES MUSEUM This offbeat museum in Ikeda pays tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of the instant noodle. Great for kids, there are fun, hands-on activities and, for only ¥300, you can design your own bespoke cup noodles (takes about 45 mins). ///candles.shell.magic • 8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda • TEL: 072-752-3484 • cupnoodlesmuseum.jp

OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUM This educational museum on Nakanoshima Island boasts four floors of more than 200 interactive exhibits and displays designed to help children learn about chemistry, electricity, energy, and the universe. The planetarium’s main dome has a radius of almost 27 meters, making it the largest in Japan and the seventh-largest in the world. ///owns.trusts.hostels • 4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-64445656 • sci-museum.jp

MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND LIVING This museum depicts everyday Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life-sized interactive recreation of an Edo-era neighborhood. ///wipe.natural.spray • 6-4-20 Tenjinbashi, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6242-1170 • konjyakukan.com

Monuments and Landmarks

SUMIYOSHI SHRINE Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Founded in the 3rd century before Buddhism came to the country, it has a distinctive architectural style called Sumiyoshi-zukuri that is free of influence from mainland Asia.

///author.condiment.nozzle • 2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi Ward • TEL: 06-66720753 • sumiyoshitaisha.net

OSAKA CASTLE If it’s your first time to Osaka then you are duty-bound to visit this 400-year-old castle in the beautiful grounds of the expansive Osaka Castle Park.

The small museum inside offers a thorough insight into its history.

FLICKR/M-LOUIS

Osaka

///surround.librarian.shins • 1-1 Osakajo, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6941-3044 • osakacastle.net

UMEDA SKY BUILDING One of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, the Floating Garden Observatory connecting its two towers offers 360-degree panoramic views. ///fields.pining.rocked • 1-1-88 Oyodonaka, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6440-3900 • skybldg. co.jp

ABENO HARUKAS Japan’s tallest skyscraper at 300m in height is home to an observatory, an art museum, and a hotel as well as a slew of restaurants and hundreds of shops.

MIE

IGA-RYU NINJA MUSEUM The Iga region of Mie Prefecture is well-known for its ninja history and Iga’s ninja museum is the place to go for a comprehensive ninja experience. There’s a ninja residence, two exhibition halls, and a stage where ninja shows are performed. The ninja residence looks ordinary from the outside, but inside there are revolving walls, trap doors, and hidden compartments. Visitors are given a guided tour around the house with explanations about the various contraptions and also about the ninja way of life. There are ninja tools, costumes, and weapons on display in the exhibition halls, and you can experience the art of shuriken throwing in the museum yard. ///common.deadline.hangs • 117 Uenomarunouchi, Iga • TEL: 0595-23-0311 • iganinja.jp

///handwriting.lobby.chefs • 1-1-43 Abenosuji, Abeno Ward • TEL: 06-6624-1111 • abenoharukas-300.jp

TSUTENKAKU TOWER Tsutenkaku is one of Osaka’s most iconic landmarks presiding over the Shinsekai area near Tennoji. There are observation decks on the 4th and 5th floors, although at just 103m high, it is dwarfed by the nearby Abeno Harukas. ///ants.seasons.these • 1-18-6 Ebisuhigashi, Naniwa Ward • TEL: 06-6641-9555 • tsutenkaku.co.jp

Attractions

OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKAN One of the largest public aquariums in the world, visitors head to the eighth floor to start the tour and gradually spiral downward floor by floor around the central tank, which houses a whale shark. There are around 15 other tanks, each representing a specific region of the Pacific Rim. ///deserved.gamer.shark • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 06-6576-5501 • kaiyukan.com

LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER OSAKA

A great place for the kids to let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, small rides and 4D cinema that form this indoor LEGO playground.

Save money on the entry fee with the Osaka Amazing Pass, which gets you into several of the city’s attractions, including Legoland, over a one- or two-day period. ///paths.teachers.themes • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato Ward • TEL: 0800-1005346 • legolanddiscoverycenter.jp

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN Giant movie-themed amusement park with thrills and spills for all ages featuring characters from the Universal stable, including Harry Potter, Spiderman, and the Minions. ///talents.humans.oils • 2-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward • TEL: 0570-200-606 • usj.co.jp

SPA WORLD A giant hot-spring theme park with a huge choice of fanciful baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its upper floors. Open 24 hrs. ///sugars.stews.napped • 3-4-24 Ebisuhigashi, Naniwa Ward • TEL: 06-6631-0001 • spaworld.co.jp

SILVER BALL PLANET Japan’s mecca for pinball machines housing over 100 machines dating from the 1970s to the present day. ///friends.teachers.tragedy • Big Step 3F, 1-6-14 Nishi-shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-62585000 • silverballplanet.jp

KANSAI CYCLE SPORTS CENTER A bicycle-themed amusement park located in the hills south

Need extra help getting around?

The What3words app identifies 3m x 3m squares across the planet with a unique three-word address. This navigation system is particularly useful in Japan where signs are hard to read (if you don’t speak Japanese) and sometimes your map app will take you to the vicinity of a shop, cafe, restaurant, temple, etc., but you don’t know exactly where the entrance is. The three words for a site are presented using three slashes: /// To use: download the What3words app and enter the three words written down for a site (after this symbol: ///) into the app and the location will appear on your device. The system even works offline.

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

Sights & Attractions

See Kansaifinder.com for more of Osaka. With pedal-powered roller coasters, a cycle luge, swings, and a host of crazy bikes to try out, this is a fun day out for the whole family. ///dislodge.blusher.officers • 1304 Amanocho, Kawachinagano • TEL: 0721-543101 • kcsc.or.jp

Kyoto Museums

NIJO CASTLE The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo Castle encompasses several gardens and the beautifully preserved Ninomaru Palace whose lavishly decorated rooms feature ornate woodwork and stunning wall paintings. ///party.lorry.withdraw • 541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-841-0096 • city. kyoto.jp

KYOTO RAILWAY MUSEUM This 30,000-square-meter space features 53 engines ranging from the Japan’s oldest steam locomotive to more recent

shinkansen models. Kids will go crazy for the train simulators and interactive dioramas. ///selects.costumes.moral • Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward • TEL: 0570-080-462 • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp

KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART The gallery houses a superb collection of both Japanese and Western modern art with some excellent temporary exhibitions and can be found across the road from the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art. ///privately.shears.hotels • 26-1 Okazaki Enshojicho, Sakyo Ward • TEL: 075-761-4111 • momak.go.jp

KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM This is one of Japan’s oldest museums housing a permanent collection of Japanese artefacts, treasures, and artworks. ///someone.piston.dots • 527 Chayacho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-525-2473 • kyohaku.go.jp

KYOTO INTERNATIONAL MANGA MUSEUM

This massive collection of contemporary and historical manga, comics, and graphic novels housed in a former primary school is a huge hit with manga and comic buffs the world over. ///dearest.tractor.between • 452 Kinbukicho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-2547414 • kyotomm.jp

Attractions A long-running non-verbal theater show that continues to delight all ages. It mixes mime, dancing, magic, juggling, and contemporary special effects. ///awake.smaller.handwriting • 1928 Blg. 3F, 56 Benkeiishi-cho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-254-6520 • gear.ac

BIGSTOCKPHOTO/ANDREAS ALTENBURGER

///rinses.safest.select • TEL: 0742-22-0375 • nara-park.com

TODAI-JI This temple with its 15m-high Buddha is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and draws a steady stream of visitors.

///seasons.zealous.maternal • 10 Uzumasa Higashihachioka-cho, Ukyo Ward • TEL: 075-864-7716 • toei-eigamura.com

Nara

///lighten.cult.self • 406-1 Zoshicho, Nara • 0742-22-5511 • todaiji.or.jp

KASUGA SHRINE An ancient Shinto shrine famous for its stunning vermillion-colored columns, it is approached along an atmospheric forest path lined with hundreds of stone lanterns. ///announce.mascots.prove • 160 Kasuganocho, Nara • TEL: 0742-22-7788 • kasugataisha.or.jp

Hyogo Museums

KOBE FASHION MUSEUM

Museums

NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM

///scores.played.pausing • 2-1 Senribanpakukoen, Suita • TEL: 06-6170-5590 • expocity-mf.com

A huge ancient park and the focal point for any visit to Nara. Droves of wild deer will follow you around as you explore the park’s stunning temples, gardens, and museums, hoping you may feed them special deer crackers.

TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARK

///soldiers.grants.alright • 35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward • TEL: 075-354-3130 • kyoto-aquarium.com

EXPO CITY

Monuments and Landmarks

There’s lots of fun to be had at this old Edo-themed movie park with a brilliant ninja show, staged samurai fights, and the chance to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets.

KYOTO AQUARIUM

Located in Suita in the north of Osaka, Expo City is a multi-venue complex home to a state-of-the-art aquarium and animal sanctuary called Nifrel where you can see crocodiles, tigers, monkeys, and penguins as well as sea creatures like tropical fish. The Lalaport shopping center has entertainment, food, and shopping options galore, including the 109 Cinema, a hi-tech Imax theater where you can have 3D or even 4D immersive movie experiences involving smoke, water, and other realistic special effects.

The nearby Redhorse Osaka Wheel soars 120 meters above Expo City, making it the tallest Ferris wheel in the country.

Just a stone’s throw away, the renowned Bampaku Koen, also known as Expo ’70 Commemorative Park, is an expansive green area covering 60 hectares and is home to the very quirky-looking Tower of the Sun.

///export.hairpin.pound • 10-6 Noboriojicho, Nara City • TEL: 0742-23-3968 • pref.nara.jp/11842.htm

NARA PARK

GEAR

A modern aquarium in Umekoji Park with aquatic creatures presented across 12 different themed areas. Great for a rainyday activity or for families with young children.

OSAKA

explanations of most pieces are in English. There is a good museum shop and regular free workshops and activities for families. Free for seniors and for foreigners with ID.

Expanding over four buildings with wheelchair access, this museum holds treasures from the Nara period (710 to 784 AD) plus Buddhist and decorative art from around Japan with explanations in English. ///officers.sweetly.actor • 50 Noborioji-cho, Nara City • TEL: 050-5542-8600 • narahaku. go.jp/english/index_e.html

NARA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF ART Nara’s main art museum has an extensive collection of Japanese art with a focus on the Edo and Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate every two to three months and

Situated on Rokko Island, this is Japan’s first museum dedicated to the world of fashion. It houses a large public library on its 3rd floor. ///beeline.betrayal.marked • 2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward • TEL: 078-858-0050 • fashionmuseum.or.jp

KOBE ANPANMAN CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALL Great for young kids, this is a fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland district, dedicated to the surreal world of popular Japanese children’s character Anpanman. ///develops.mixer.credited • 1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo Ward • TEL: 078-341-8855 • kobe-anpanman.jp

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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What’s On  Art & Exhibitions OSAKA

KYOTO

KYOTO

FLOWER GARDEN OF ART NOUVEAU: MUCHA AND LALIQUE

DRESS CODE: ARE YOU PLAYING FASHION?

THE THIRTY-SIX IMMORTAL POETS: ELEGANT ARTS OF THE CLASSICAL JAPANESE COURT

Sakai Alphonse Mucha Museum • Until Oct 14 In celebration of the artist who inspired the Sakai museum’s name, this exhibition commemorates the 80th anniversary of the death of Alphonse Mucha (1860–1939), one of the most influential figures of the Art Nouveau movement that captivated France—and the world—in the late 19th century. The Czech painter rose to fame by creating stylized theatrical posters for French actress Sarah Bernhardt while living in Paris. The exhibition features approximately 130 artworks focusing on Mucha’s designs featuring flowers and plants. Also included are pieces of jewelry and glass art by Mucha’s contemporary, René Lalique (1860–1945). This special exhibition is jointly held by the Sakai Alphonse Mucha Museum and the Lalique Museum Hakone.

OPEN: 9:30am–5:15pm (last admission

THE ROOTS OF SHOJO MANGA? EARLY 20TH CENTURY PARISIAN ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINES

4:30pm) • ADMISSION: • ACCESS: 3-min walk from JR Sakaishi Station • TEL: 072-222-5533 • mucha.sakaibunshin.com

Kyoto International Manga Museum • Until Nov (TBD) Curated by Aramata Hiroshi, the executive director of the museum, the purpose of this mini-exhibition is to “trace the forgotten ancestors of manga” to uncover its contemporary roots. “The Roots of Shojo Manga?” is the fifth installment of this eyeopening investigative series. Featuring illustrated Parisian magazines dating to the early 20th century from Aramata’s own collection, visitors can glimpse how these periodicals influenced the romantic shojo manga (comics for young girls) of Japan’s Taisho period (1912–1926) and beyond. Drawings based on the fashionably beguiling women of turn-of-the-century Paris are showcased, including illustrations by Gerda Wegener, on whose life the recent film The Danish Girl was based.

OPEN: 10am–6pm (admission until 5:30pm); CLOSED: Every Wed & Sep 10th • ADMISSION: ¥800 • ACCESS: 2-min walk from Karasuma Oike Station

• TEL: 075-254-7414 • kyotomm.jp/en/event/exh_ early20thcenturyparisianmagazines/

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

9:30am–5pm, Fri & Sat until 9pm (admission until 30 mins before closing); closed Mondays (except Sep 16 & 23 and Oct 14; closed following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥1,300 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Station • TEL: 075-761-4111 • kci.or.jp/special/ exhibitions2019/en

Kyoto National Museum • Oct 11 to Nov 23 One hundred years ago, in the year 1919, news went viral concerning a set of precious 13th-century handscrolls known as Thirty-Six Immortal Poets, Satake Version. A group of wealthy connoisseurs had acquired the painted scrolls, once owned by the prominent Satake family, and were considered one of the nation’s most valuable artistic treasures. The connoisseurs intended to split up the collection and horde it amongst themselves. To possess one of these priceless fragments came to be regarded as a status symbol, yet their whereabouts often remained unknown even to experts.

Today, these paintings have been reunited in their most comprehensive and public form in a century for all to enjoy.

OPEN: 9:30am–6pm, Fri & Sat until 8pm (admission until 30 mins before closing); closed Mondays (except Oct 14 & Nov 4; closed following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥1,600 • ACCESS: 7-min walk from Shichijo Station • TEL: 075-525-2473 • kyohaku.go.jp/ eng/special

WAKAYAMA

MAEKAWA SENPAN The Museum of Modern Art, Wakayama • Sep 9 to Oct 1 In commemoration of the 130th birthday of print artist and cartoonist Maekawa Sempan (1889–1960), MOMAW will display illustrations by the beloved Kyoto-born artist.

Originally named Ishida Shigezaburo, Sempan studied Western art at Kansai Bijutsuin before moving to Tokyo to become a journalist and cartoonist for the Yomiuri Shimbun. He rose to fame for his creation of a character known as “Hasty Bear” as well as for his skill as a print artist. Known for his rustic style and the ability to convey the warmth of his subjects, Sempan traveled the country sketching the people and places he came across. About 70 of his works as well as related materials will be showcased at this exhibition.

OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (admission until 30 minutes before closing); closed Mondays (except Sep 16 & 23 and Oct 14; closed the following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥340 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from JR Wakayama Station • TEL: 073-436-8690 • momaw.jp/exhibit/after/post-162.php

10. 前川千帆 『新日本百景』 「瀞八丁」 1938（昭和13）年/ 木版、紙/ 当館蔵

GERDA WEGER, LA BAÏONNETTE, 5E ANNÉE, NO 191, 1919

KYOTO

MoMAK • Until Oct 14 Focusing on why we wear the clothes we do, “Are You Playing Fashion?” presents our daily fashion choices as a game of dress-up. By probing into what influences the clothes that cover our bodies and fill our closets, this exhibition reveals how fashion is based on one’s locale, beliefs, and circumstances. Examples of contemporary fashion, clothing depicted in film and manga, and items from highend brands are showcased alongside one another in a manner both playful and thought-provoking. Actual clothing items, as well as photographs depicting looks from recent decades, are on display. From labels like Chanel and Comme des Garçons to artists like Ishiuchi Miyako and Hans Eijkelboom, there is something for everyone at this flashy and tonguein-cheek exposition.

What’s On  Art & Exhibitions

鈴木春信「もんがく上人 市川団十良 平の清もり 沢村宗十良」 宝暦12年（1762）

See Kansaifinder.com for more

OSAKA

VIENNA ON THE PATH TO MODERNISM: THE 150TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE ESTABLISHMENT OF DIPLOMATIC RELATIONS BETWEEN JAPAN AND AUSTRIA

グスタフ・クリムト《パラス・アテナ》 1898年 油彩／カンヴァス 75 x 75 cm ウィーン・ミュ ージアム蔵 ©Wien Museum / Foto Peter Kainz

OSAKA

MARY AINSWORTH UKIYO-E COLLECTION Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts • Until Sep 29 Witness a world-class collection of ukiyo-e art prints at the Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts. Returning to Japan for the first time in over 100 years, the collection—which belongs to the Allen Memorial Art Museum in Oberlin, Ohio in the U.S.—features illustrated works of natural and everyday scenes delicately drawn and pristinely preserved. Born in 1867, Mary Ainsworth was one of the earliest American collectors of ukiyo-e art and one of the only women. Her pioneering efforts yielded a collection of more than 1,500 precious prints. Approximately 200 of these will be on display, including works by famed ukiyo-e masters Katsushika Hokusai (known for The Great Wave) and Utagawa Hiroshige.

OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4:30pm) • ADMISSION: ¥1,400 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Tennoji Station • TEL: 06-6771-4874 • osaka-artmuseum.jp/sp_evt/mary-ainsworth

OSAKA

KYOTO

THE DORAEMON EXHIBITION OSAKA 2019

LEGENDARY KYOTO PAINTING FROM MARUYAMA OKYO TO THE MODERN ERA

Osaka Cultural Center • Until Sep 23 Children and anime fans alike will delight in this explosion of psychedelic color and childhood nostalgia. This exhibition goes beyond the beloved anime character, however — the 2019 Doraemon Exhibition is a celebration of contemporary Japanese art. A selection of 28 artists representing Japan comes together to showcase genredefying works capturing the whimsical spirit of the 1970s-era animated character. Doraemon is the star of a fantastical manga and TV series of the same name and a Japanese cultural icon.

All the artists featured in this exhibition grew up influenced by the loveable time-traveling robo cat, as is evident in their playful but thought-provoking pieces ranging from photography to installation.

OPEN: 10am–5pm (last admission 4:30pm) every day • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • ACCESS: 7-min walk from Osakako Station (next to aquarium) • TEL: 06-6586-3911 • thedoraemon tentokyo2017.jp/osaka.html

MOMAK • Nov 01 to Dec 14 Maruyama Okyo is a renowned artist whose work characterized 18thcentury Kyoto. Known for pioneering a realistic ink painting technique based on scenes from daily life, this new genre became known as the Maruyama school. A contemporary named Goshun founded the Shijo school, a style that fused Maruyama’s realism and the stylized strokes of painter-poet Yosa Buson.

Together, Maruyama and Goshun created the Maruyama-Shijo school which focused on both authenticity and spirituality. Chronicling artistic techniques from Maruyama and Goshun’s time to the modern era, Legendary Kyoto Painting seeks to provide insight into various aspects of Kyoto art..

The National Museum of Art, Osaka • Until Dec 7 Vienna on the Path to Modernism focuses on the Austrian city’s finde-siècle (“turn of the century”) art scene. The years surrounding 1900 were a time of significant change for the European city—tradition converged with innovation, making the period rife with both anxiety and creativity. Tracing Viennese art through the Enlightenment, Biedermeier, Ringstrasse, and finde-siècle periods (circa 1780–1920), works from artists like Rudolf von Alt to Gustav Klimt are included. The artworks span generations and genres, but all reveal how the region changed at the turn of the last century. This exhibition coincides with the 150th anniversary of the date Japan and Austria established diplomatic relations and features approximately 300 items from Vienna’s Wien Museum.

OPEN: 10am–5pm; Fri & Sat until 9pm (in Sep) and until 8pm Oct to Dec (admission until 30 mins before closing); closed Mondays (except Sept 16 & 23, Oct 14 and Nov 4; closed following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥1,600 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Watanabebashi Station • TEL: 06-6447-4680 • nmao.go.jp/en/ exhibition/2019/klimt_en.html

OPEN: Regular hours: 9:30am–5pm *Fri and Sat 9:30am–8pm (Admission until 30 mins before closing) • CLOSED: Mondays except Nov 4th (closed Tue Nov 5th instead) • ADMISSION: ¥500 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Station • TEL: 075761-4111 • https://okyokindai2019. exhibit.jp/

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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What’s On  Live Music OSAKA

FEEDER Sep 17 You could be forgiven for thinking that Feeder’s start in the music industry is the stuff of dreams: Band sends a demo tape to a record label in 1994, label likes it, attends a live concert and quickly signs the group for a record deal. But as we know, there’s no such thing as overnight success. The band’s roots were established in 1987 when frontman guitarist Grant Nicholas met drummer Jon Lee and formed a group named Temper Temper, which would become Raindancer, Real, and then finally Feeder after recruiting bassist Taka Hirose.

Tragically, drummer Jon Lee took his own life in 2002, but after some time, the band continued with

Skunk Anansie drummer Michael Richardson. Jump to the present, now with Karl Brazil on drums, and this year Feeder released their tenth studio album, Tallulah. UK newspaper The Guardian described the album as “a tour of noughties guitar music that time, or at least the zeitgeist, forgot...Nicholas and Hirose play to their strengths: unabashedly unfashionable guitar anthems with melodic middle-ofthe-road flourishes.” Feeder has built an almost cult-like following in Japan so get your tickets early for this gig!

Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7:30pm • ¥7,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569

Rock & Pop

Pop • Osaka Festival Hall, Osaka • 6:30pm • ¥7,506 • Tel: 0570-200-888

THE ROYAL CONCEPT

VELVET CRUSH

HOLY GRAIL

Sep 19 Swedish rock band formed 2010

Oct 1 American power-pop trio

Sep 6 US metal band formed 2008 Metal • Hokage,Osaka• 7pm • TBA • Tel: 06-6211-2855

KODA KUMI Sep 9–10 & Sep 12–14 Japanese pop vocalist Pop • Orix Theater, Osaka • 7pm • TBA • Tel: 06-6341-3525

MISAKO UNO Sep 16 Japanese pop vocalist Pop • Grand Cube, Osaka • 6pm • ¥7,800 • Tel: 0570-200-888

FEEDER Sep 17 UK rock band featuring Grant Nicholas and Taka Hirose Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7:30pm • ¥7,000 • Tel: 06-6535-5569

MISIA Sep 18 Japanese pop, R&B and soul vocalist Pop • Zepp, Osaka • 7pm • ¥8,640 • Tel: 0570-200-888

LITTLE GLEE MONSTER Sep 18 Japanese pop vocalist

Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥6,500 • Tel: 06-6311-8111

KILL LINCOLN

Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥8,000 • 06-6311-8111

Pop-rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,800 / ¥8,300 • 06-6311-8111

ONE OK ROCK

Sep 20 American ska-punk band

Oct 1–2 Four-piece band from Tokyo formed 2005

Ska Punk • Bronze, Osaka • TBA • TBA • 06-6282-7129

Pop rock • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,500 • 06-6341-3525

ALDIOUS

CARNATION

Sep 21 Japanese melodic metal

Oct 5 Belgian death metal band

Metal • Muse, Kyoto • 6pm • ¥4,500 / ¥5,000 • 075-223-0389

Metal • Namba Bears, Osaka • 7:30pm • TBA • 06-6649-5564

KAMIJO

HOT CHIP

Sep 21–22 Japanese visual-kei rock band

Oct 9 British electro-pop band

Rock • Muse, Osaka • 21st - 6pm / 22nd - 4pm • TBA • 06-6245-5389

SUPERFLY Sep 28–29 Japanese pop vocalist Pop • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • 28th - 4:30pm / 29th - 3:30pm • ¥7,700 / ¥8,800 • 0570-200-888

BACKYARD BABIES Sep 30 Swedish heavy-rock band formed 1989

Electro Pop • Big Cat, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,000 • 06-6535-5569

BACKSTREET BOYS Oct 16 American pop vocal group Pop • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • 7pm • ¥9,500 / ¥18,000 • 0570-200-888

KENNY ‘BABYFACE’ EDMUNDS Oct 16–18 US singer, musician and producer

OSAKA

HOT CHIP Oct 9 Hot Chip is an English synth-pop band formed in London in 2000.

The group consists of multiinstrumentalists Alexis Taylor, Joe Goddard, Al Doyle, Owen Clarke, and Felix Martin. Primarily producing music in the synth-pop and alternative dance genres while drawing influences from house and disco, the band initially began as a simple hobby recording project between school friends Taylor and Goddard. Their debut studio album through Moshi Moshi Records (named after the Japanese word for “hello” when answering the telephone) was 2004’s Coming On Strong, which received mixed reviews. This year, Hot Chip released a seventh studio album A Bath Full of Ecstasy. Songwriters Goddard and Taylor began writing the album in 2017 while contributing to songs for Katy Perry. One song Into Me You See went onto Perry’s album Witness, while two others—Spell and Echo—were re-worked for A Bath Full of Ecstasy.

Electro-pop • Big Cat, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

See Kansaifinder.com for more

What’s On  Live Music

OSAKA

THE ROYAL CONCEPT Sep 19 The Royal Concept came together in 2012 in Stockholm, Sweden.

They released their debut album Goldrushed in 2013, followed by the 2015 Smile before disbanding.

Coming back together in 2018 to work on new music, they had intended this year’s album The Man Without Qualities to be their last. But after switching labels, they got a second wind and decided to continue by booking live dates in Europe and Asia.

Online music review magazine Dancing About Architecture described the new album as

R&B • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥17,000 / ¥18,000 • 06-6342-7722

QUEENESS Oct 26 Japanese Queen tribute band Rock • Live Spot Rag, Kyoto • 7:30pm • ¥3,440 / ¥4,300 • 075-241-2022

SYRUP16G Oct 25–26 Japanese rock band from Tokyo formed 2008 Rock • Big Cat, Osaka • 25th-7:30pm / 26th - 5:30pm • ¥4,800 • 0570-200-888

FIFTH DIMENSION Oct 28 Australian punk-rock trio Rock • Hokage, Osaka • TBA • TBA • 06-6211-2855

DRAGON ASH Oct 29

“more mature than the band’s previous releases, with a little bit of carryover but with more climaxes and emotion as well as showing more of a psychadelic side of their sound.” As well as their albums, The Royal Concept has also enjoyed success with their music being used in a number of computer games and television shows.

Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥6,500 • TEL: 06-6311-8111

Japanese rock-rap band Rock • Chicken George, Kobe • 7pm • ¥6,000 • 078-332-0146

THE MUGGLES Every Fri & Sat Mellow ballads, classic rock, and rock n roll from Osaka-based jamming band

Sep 17–18 US jazz vocal group formed 1969 Jazz • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥10,800 / ¥11,800 • 06-6342-7722

MARSHALL MCDONALD Sep 20 Jazz-funk saxophonist

Group Sounds • Woodstock Cafe, Ashiya • 7pm • Free (¥2,000 for 2 drinks+snack) • 079-734-1044

Jazz • Bonds Rosary, Kyoto • 7:30pm • ¥3,000 • 075-285-2859

Jazz & World

Sep 26 Japanese accordian duo

MEGUREE

JOSHUA BREAKSTONE TRIO Sep 6 US jazz guitarist Jazz • Bonds Rosary, Kyoto • 7:30pm • ¥2,900 • 075-285-2859

THE MANHATTAN TRANSFER

Jazz Pops • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 7:30pm / 9pm • ¥3,500 / ¥4,000 • 06-6342-5821

BRIAN JACKSON Sep 28 The music of Gill Scott Heron & Brian Jackson

AYAKO ISHIKAWA Oct 1 Japanese classic and contemporary violinist Classic • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥5,500 / ¥6,500 • 066342-7722

GAIA CUATRO Oct 2 Japanese-Argentinian jazz fourpiece Jazz • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 7pm/9pm • ¥4,000 / ¥6,000 • 06-6342-5821

KURT ROSENWINKEL Oct 16–17 Jazz guitarist with CAIPI ft.

Pedro Martins Jazz • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:15pm • ¥8,000 / ¥8,500 • 066342-5821

Jazz • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥8,800 / ¥9,800 • 066342-7722

OSAKA

KURT ROSENWINKEL Oct 16 & 17 American jazz musician and Berklee College of Music student Kurt Rosenwinkel signed to Verve in 1995 after winning the Composer’s Award from the National Endowment for the Arts. He released his solo album East Coast Love Affair the following year. Citing influences including John Coltrane, Pat Metheny, Allan Holdsworth, Tal Farlow, George Van Eps, Bill Frisell, John Scofield, and Alex Lifeson (RUSH), Rosenwinkel brings his CAIPI project (the title of his 2017 album) to Japan along with Brazilian guitar prodigy (Montreux Guitar Competition winner 2015) Pedro Martins. Martins is a multiinstrumentalist, singer and composer who has left his very own mark on Rosenwinkel’s Caipi project, live as well as in the studio, and has also recorded his own work on the well-received album VOX. A gig for music lovers in general, this is a golden opportunity to see two of the top guitarists in the genre.

Jazz • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:15pm • ¥8,000 / ¥8,500 • TEL: 06-6342-5821

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

41

What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife Sep

Sep 7

SOUTH SWELL CAFE City Boy Lounge feat.

Chaos in the CBD (House)

NARA

Sep 7 & 8

ADVENTURE LAND Bon Disco 2019 (Techno/ House/Breaks) ACTS: Cesare, Boiler, Naluu,

Takahiro Oishi, Robert, Hanai, Dasakura + more • OPEN: 7th 12pm; 8th 3pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,500/1D • ACCESS: Nosegawa mura, 2 hours from Osaka

By Car • TEL: 072-986-7777 • adventureland.jp OSAKA

Sep 7

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format) DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun

Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com KYOTO

Sep 7

OCTAVE Parallel World presents Creative Psyenergy (Psychedelic Trance) DJS: Akinao & Yoshito, Gacky,

Junny, T.k.o + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600/1D • ACCESS: Keihan Sanjo Stn • TEL: 06-62141223 • octavekyoto.space OSAKA

DJS: Chaos in the Cbd, CityBoy

Lounge Residents DJs • OPEN: 7pm–11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000 • ACCESS: Awaza Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6535-8852 • FACEBOOK: South Swell Cafe KYOTO

Sep 7

¥2,500/1D • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-7522787 • metro.ne.jp

¥2,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-7522787 • metro.ne.jp

OSAKA

OSAKA

Sep 13

Sep 14

CIRCUS

CIRCUS

Monza (Techno)

Hidden Spheres Japan Tour Osaka (House)

DJS: Aoki Takamasa, Kohei + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

WEST HARLEM

KYOTO

Syn-c: The Last Dance (House/Techno)

Sep 13

OSAKA

DNA PARADISE

DJS: Torei, Toshiki, Sota, Ryo +

Aquialia (Deep House)

more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D (Under 23 Year Old:¥1,000/1D) • ACCESS: Hankyu Kawaramachi Stn, Keihan shijo Stn • TEL: 050-1016-0099 • FACEBOOK: westharlem

DJS: Mitsuki, Urame, Werikyo, Koz + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: Keihan Sanjo Stn • TEL: 06-6214-1223 • dnaparadise.space

OSAKA

OSAKA

Sep 8

Sep 13

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE

Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)

Loyal (Open Format)

DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero

+ more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women

& FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KYOTO

KYOTO

Sep 8

Sep 13

METRO

METRO

Low Power (Techno/ Electronic) ACTS: Ken’ichi Itoi, Ichion,

Ceeestee + more • OPEN: 5pm–10:30pm • ADMISSION:

DJS: Hidden Spheres, Mightwhales, Akemi HIno + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500 (ADV:¥2,000) • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

Do it Jazz! x Dego (Jazz/ Crossover/House) ACTS: Dego, Masaki Tamura, Yukari Bb, Sota, Kazuhiro Inoue + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV:

Sep 14

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format) DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 15

CIRCUS See You At (House) DJS: Luigi Madonna, Yashima, Nao Nomura, Seiiichi Takamatsu + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 15

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae) DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KYOTO

Sep 15

METRO Barrio Lindo Japan Tour 2019 supported by Kiki Kaikai (Tribal/Techno/ House) ACTS: Barrio Lindo, Mamezuka, Chari, Tamai-I + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-7522787 • metro.ne.jp

KYOTO

Sep 15

WEST HARLEM Cafe La Siesta 18th Anniversary (Chiptune/ Electronic/Breakcore ) DJS: Cycheouts G, Soichi Terada, Ally Nobs, + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • ACCESS: Hankyu Kawaramachi Stn, Keihan shijo Stn • TEL: 050-10160099 • FACEBOOK: westharlem

OSAKA

Sep 16

CIRCUS Prins Thomas Japan Tour 2019 ~happy Monday Special!~ (House) DJS: Prins Thomas, Ageishi, Yama + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:

TODD TERJE OSAKA

Sep 27

UMEDA CLUB QUATTRO CLUB QUATTRO PRESENTS “NIGHT FOUNTAIN” TODD TERJE JAPAN TOUR 2019 (HOUSE/DISCO) Todd Terje is one of the most well-known DJs to come out of Norway.

Best known for his 2012 house track Inspector Norse, he was listed number 17 on the list of “the 25 DJs that rule the earth” by Rolling Stone magazine. He released his first album It’s Album Time in 2014, which went on to be listed as one of “the 100 best albums of the decade so far”

by Pitchfork. He has had considerable success outside of electronic music including co-writing the song Candy with Robbie Williams, which reached number one on the UK charts. His most recent work includes covers of the disco artists who shaped his sound.

DJS: Todd Terje + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,600/1D ADV: ¥3,600/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6311-8111 • club-quattro.com

42

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife

See Kansaifinder.com for more ¥2,500 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com OSAKA

Sep 16

PICCADILLY UMEDA Premium Live in Club Piccadilly Nitro Microphone Underground- (Hip Hop) LIVE: Nitro Microphone

Underground, Jaggra, No Name’s DJS: Hajime, B=Ball, Takumi + more • OPEN: 5pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥5,000/1D(ADV: ¥4,000/1D) • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-68095895 • clubpiccadilly.com OSAKA

Sep 20

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Loyal (Open Format) DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour

+ more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com OSAKA

Sep 21

CIRCUS Licaxxx Japan Tour with Tcr in Osaka All Night Long (Techno) DJS: Licaxxx + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-7522787 • metro.ne.jp

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE

OSAKA

En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format)

Sep 21

DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun

MILULARI Hard Techno Grooves#7.5 Osaka (Techno/Hard Techno/Trance) DJS: Loe, Hilock, Linn + more

• OPEN: 1pm–9pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000 • ACCESS: Namba Subway Stn, Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6606-9395 • milulari.com HYOGO

Sep 21

VARIT. Troop Crossing feat. Mr. Ho (House/Techno) DJS: Mr. Ho, Masafumi Onishi, Shunjee, + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D • ACCESS: Sannomiya Subway Stn, Hankyu Sannomiya Stn, JR Sannomiya Stn • TEL: 078-335-8879 • varit.jp

OSAKA

Sep 22

COMPUFUNK RECORDS Niagara feat. Justin Van Der Volgen (Disco/House) DJS: Justin Van Der Volgen, Akihiro, Discoball Ikeda + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • ACCESS: Kitahama Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6314-6541 • compufunk.com

OSAKA

Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com OSAKA

Sep 29

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae) DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women &FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KYOTO

Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)

Oct 4

OSAKA

Sep 27

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE

KYOTO

Loyal (Open Format)

Sep 21

DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

METRO DJ Colaboy presents Homesick 42 -Dengaryu’ Ride On Time’ Release Party- (Hip Hop) ACTS: Dengaryu, Colaboy, Ce$,

Ch.0, Nutsman + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,800/1D (ADV: ¥3,300/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu

OSAKA

Sep 28

LIVE: !!! + more • OPEN: 7pm–11pm

• ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

Need more parties?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

LEN FAKI

Oct

Sep 21

DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

METRO !!! (chk chk chk) “Wallop” Release Party Japan Tour (House/Dance)

DJS: Kuwabara, Hisashi Aochi, Shintaro Fujita + more • OPEN: 10pm–3am • ADMISSION: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-7522787 • metro.ne.jp

KYOTO

+ more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

DJS: Mel, Ogamixxx, Shilver Fox, Shinji, Ray + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-68095895 • clubpiccadilly.com

METRO

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE

En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format)

PICCADILLY UMEDA New Ôrder feat. DJ Mel & Ogamixxx (EDM/Future House)

Mint - September-only Released Tracks Night (Techno/House)

Sep 22

DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero

KYOTO

Oct 30

OSAKA

Nov 19

Sep 30

OSAKA

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE

“Peter Vawter Project” + more DJS: Yoshihiro Okino, Ageishi, Mightwhales, Max Pela, City Boy Lounge + more • OPEN: 11am–7pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,000/1D • ACCESS: Nanko Port Town line, Port Town Higashi Stn • TEL: 06-6615-7795 • iflyer.tv/ja/ nanko_sankaku_park

METRO DJ Colaboy presents Homesick 43 supportedby Cocalero, Nusa Cana(Electronic/ House) DJS: Towa Tei, Tofubeats, Okadada, Halfby + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,000/1D (ADV: ¥3,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-7522787 • metro.ne.jp

OSAKA

Oct 6

NANKO SANKAKU KOEN Nanko De La Soul (House/Funk/Soul/Hip Hop/Jazz) LIVE: Jazzy Beats Collective, Soul Flowz, Yacel Sagarra,

OSAKA

Oct 5

CIRCUS LEN FAKI JAPAN TOUR 2019 OSAKA (TECHNO/MINIMAL) Len Faki has been making popular techno for about 20 years and his tracks just keep getting better. The German producer started his label Figure in 2003 and became a resident DJ at the legendary Berghain nightclub in Berlin in 2004. In 2007, he became more well-known internationally with the success of his tracks Mekong Delta and My Black Sheep. Berlin continues to be the epicenter of the techno scene in no small part thanks to the efforts of Faki and his label. Len Faki comes from a scene where the party doesn’t stop just because the sun is up. His tracks are designed to keep everyone dancing into the afternoon and he’ll be bringing that energy to Osaka this October.

DJS: Len Faki + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D（ADV: ¥3,100/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-62413822 • circus-osaka.com

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

43

Food & Drink

KYOTO

Honke Owariya JAPANESE

FLICKR/CITY FOODSTERS

Located in an atmospheric old wooden building, Honke Owariya is one of Kyoto’s oldest and best soba restaurants.

Down the street from the Imperial Palace, you’ll find this over 500-year-old two-story restaurant, which looks a lot like a traditional Japanese house, doubling as a confectionary and noodle shop. The restaurant is decked out with wood furnishings, paper walls, sliding doors, small outdoor gardens, and tatami mats. It is very popular with locals, so get there early or be prepared to wait in line. Dishes range from plain bowls of noodles to full sets. Most of the seating is on tatami mat floors around low tables.

322 Niomontsukinukecho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto

Osaka SHINSAIBASHI GAKUYA BURGER Yes, another hipster Osaka burger joint, but this one offers exclusively pork patties – an unusual take on an otherwise familiar theme. The interior has a woody, homemade vibe (in true hipster fashion), and the burgers are mouth-wateringly good, with a good range of options.

AMERICAN

2-15-13 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka

COMPTOIR 15 Run by owner-chefsommelier Inoue-san, this small counter-style bistro offers authentic bistro style French cuisine and wines sourced directly from wineries in France.

Book ahead.

FRENCH

1 Chome-29-16 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • Tel: 06-4390-0005

SAPPORO SOUP CURRY JACK One of Osaka’s most popular Uber Eats choices, this recent newcomer serves up excellent Sapporo-style soup curry – chicken and vegetables in a delicious dashi-infused spicy broth, served with saffron rice.

JAPANESE

3-8-9 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6710-9654

ASIAN BAR RAMAI When walking into Abiko’s Asian Bar Ramai, you’ll feel like you’ve just stepped through a portal to South East JAPANESE

44

Asia but the cuisine on the menu is distinctly Hokkaido-esque.

Spicy bowls of soupy curry with chunks of seared meat and vegetables with rice on the side await you.

green tea in beautiful ceramic dishes.

7-12-5 Kanda, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6657-7196

ITALIAN Spacious

BOKKAKEYA Rustic noodle shop in Minami-semba serving delicious hand-cut buckwheat soba noodles in a delicate Kansaistyle broth. During the evenings, the menu is expanded to include izakaya fare and a great selection of local sake.

JAPANESE

Nishi-ku, Shinmachi 1-2-13 1F • Tel 066535-2483 • soba-bokkakeya.com

LA GOLOSETTA

4-9-3 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4708-3616 • wad-cafe.com

LA FINESTRA open-plan restaurant offering pasta and other Italian dishes near Orix Theater.

LA BELLE VIE

Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-7729

FRENCH Authentic yet creative french bistro-style dining and decadent desserts.

2-17-17 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6534-6686

CURRY DEKKAO

2-8-13 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6264-1225 • lagolosetta.web. fc2.com

3-8-5 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4963-3746

TOFU SORANO

Choose your favorite premium rokucha green tea and have it freshly ground for you at this stylish cafe serving green tea drinks and desserts in Minami-morimachi.

ETHNIC

OSAKA CHAKAI CAFE

4-5-6 Minami-kyuhojimachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6120-0644 • foodgate.net/ shop/sorano.html

1F 2-1-25 Tenjinbashi, Kita-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6755-4789 • www.osakachakai.jp/eng

WAD

A down-to-earth pizzeria serving up a tasty range of authentic, sensibly priced Napoli-style pizzas. Pizzas are

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

KUUSHIN

1-33-8 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6606-9016

Sri Lankan-style curries in a cosy, no frills eatery in Minamisemba. Large colorful masks highlight its 2nd floor location.

CAFE This cafe and art gallery serves traditional Japanese

1-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 066535-8624

Choose from daily A or B set lunches or an evening course of creative chinese cuisine at one of the tastiest chinese restaurants in Osaka.

PIZZERIA Authentic Napoli-style pizzeria serving up delicious pizzas and appetizers from its small two-storey location in Minami-semba.

JAPANESE Enjoy creative tofu dishes and izakaya favorites in this sleek Japanese restaurant featuring a modern, minimalist interior.

ordered via a ramen shop-style ticket machine. Sit at their u-shaped counter or takeaway.

PIZZERIA DA TIGRE ITALIAN

CHINESE

TOKI NO HA Delicious bowls of noodles and freshly steamed dumplings are the main draw at this chinese tea emporium run by the same owner/chef as Kuushin.

CHINESE

Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-6001

COCOWELL CAFE Healthy, coconut-laced lunch plates and desserts are the focus of this all-day dining eco-friendly cafe in Horie.

JAPANESE

Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-13-21 • TEL: 06-65315572

BASE ISLAND KITCHEN This tiny counter-only restaurant serves up an eclectic mix of delicious tapas ranging from vegetarian and vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk Chicken! Open until 5pm daily.

ETHNIC

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-16-27

Food & Drink

See Kansaifinder.com for more TABIJI KITCHEN

SAUCE BOSS

CAFE ABSINTHE

Choose your dish by its country of origin, in this comfortable restaurant that serves up everything from Vietnamese pho to English Shepherd’s Pie, depending on the day of the week.

Serving up mouthwatering chicken wings in a huge variety of flavors, with craft beer and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down.

Stylish Mediterranean restaurant and bar serving craft cocktails, and excellent food, including hummus, falafel and babaganoush.

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie, 1-5-13 • TEL: 06-71717938

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-2-27 • TEL: 06-65346635

ETHNIC

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-14-20 • TEL: 06-65678403

CRAFT BURGER AMERICAN Run by a friendly Aussie expat and his wife, Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which the patties, buns, and all their sauces are handmade with the freshest ingredients.

AMERICAN

ETHNIC

HANA SAKE BAR

PAPRIKA SHOKUDO

With friendly Englishspeaking staff on hand to guide you, try a range of local sake and other Japanese spirits at this casual bar in the heart of Shinsaibashi.

Vegetarian/vegan restaurant serving creative meat-free dishes - so flavorsome you could swear you were eating meat sometimes!

BARS

1-8-4, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo-ku

JAPANESE

Shinmachi 1-9-9, Nishi-ku • TEL: 06-65999788

AN NGON

EL PANCHO

AMERICAN Authentic New Orleansstyle restaurant, serving up Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location.

An Ngon certainly lives up to its name, meaning “it’s delicious” in Vietnamese. The cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other Vietnamese decorations and boasts an extensive menu.

Serving up authentic Mexican fare since 1978, El Pancho offers great value combo plates and a happy hour that runs from 11:30am–5pm daily!

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-15-10 • TEL: 06-65437071

4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6282-4567

Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-6 • TEL: 06-6556-6682

BISTRO NEW ORLEANS

ETHNIC

HYOGO

Modernark pharm cafe

MEXICAN

Shinsaibashi Tower Bldg. 8F • TEL: 066241-0588

ALI’S KITCHEN

Marrying a modern Japanese interior with authentic nigiri-zushi, Kaiba sets the standard for casual sushi dining.

Choose from set courses or a la carte.

Kitahorie 1-15-22 • TEL: 06-6532-2918

THE SUITE Modeled after a 1920s New York hotel suite, this place is as suave as it gets and the perfect spot for some postdinner cocktails. Featuring live entertainment every weekend on its chandelier-lit stage area.

WINE AND COCKTAILS

Chuo Ward, Nishishinsaibashi, 2-18-18 • TEL: 06-6282-7742

ZERRO Popular Shinsaibashi bar with live DJs every weekend and no cover charge. Great food, cocktails and international beers from 500 yen.

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2 • TEL: 06-6211-0439

B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4708-5745

UMEDA MAÎTRE RENARD

Laid-back, spacious cafe cum boutique with a large island counter to recharge both your laptop and your senses.

4-13-22 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4963-3711

Fine French cuisine with an Osaka twist in Dojima, created from organic local ingredients and served in stylish yet unpretentious surroundings.

FRENCH

Hatsune Bldg. 2F, 1-5-4 Dojima Kita-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6147-633

BEER BELLY

TAVOLA 36 Occupying the 36th floor of the Swissôtel in Namba, this upscale restaurant serves an excellent buffet lunch and offers some fantastic views over the city day or night.

ITALIAN

3-11-15 Kitanagasadori, Chuo Ward, Kobe

SUSHI KAIBA JAPANESE

ETHNIC Halal-certified Pakistani and Arabic cuisine, with over 200 menu items, including their popular goat brain masala and signature biryani dishes.

CAFES AND TEAROOMS

A healthy lunch haven just 10 minutes’ walk from Sannomiya Station, this charming wood-furnished eatery serves up wholesome lunch sets like vegetarian curry rice, green salads with brown rice (genmai), and vegetable wraps for around ¥1,000.

If you come for afternoon tea, try the banana cake, coconut tiramisu, or matcha and cream cheese pound cake. For drinks, there’s everything from organic rose hip tea to soy matcha au lait, or a hot “black zinger” – a nutritious drink made from black soybeans.

Great care is taken here to use organic, healthy, and local ingredients.

Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-5-27 Koda Bldg.

B1F • TEL: 06-6468-2220

BARS

SATURDAYS NYC

VEGETARIAN

great food and international staff. Happy Hour until 8pm.

5-1-60 Namba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-66465125

MURPHY’S IRISH PUB

Osaka’s local award-winning brewery, Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in Higobashi. Serving seasonal brews as well as its regular lineup on tap, including its award winning stout and decent bar food.

CRAFT BEER BARS

Nishi-ku, Tosabori 1-1-30 • TEL: 06-64410717

PIERRE

BARS Japan’s oldest Irish bar and proud to provide the cheapest full pint in Osaka, Guinness and Kilkenny direct from Ireland, and a comprehensive selection of whiskeys and spirits.

The InterContinental Osaka’s 20th floor Michelinstarred restaurant features a seasonal fine dining menu in sophisticated surroundings.

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-Suji 1-5-2 2F • TEL: 06-6245-3757

3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku • TEL: 06-63745700

FRENCH

FLICKR/JOHN MECKLEY

THE BLARNEY STONE Irish pub in the heart of Shinsaibashi with live bands, BARS

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

45

Food & Drink

OSAKA

Uranamba Torameyokocho JAPANESE

Roam east of Namba Station into Ura-Namba and look for the vermillion torii marking the entrance to Torame Yokocho.

Here you’ll find a delicious repertoire of Osaka favorites like okonomiyaki and kushikatsu alongside sushi, sashimi, yakiniku, and more. The best thing about Torame Yokocho is that you can dine at one table but order from all the different restaurants within the complex. A fun, casual vibe, this is the perfect place to bring a small group for a low-key lunch or dinner where you can sample many different types of dishes.

JASON HAIDAR

2-3-15 Sennichimae, Chuo-ku, Osaka

OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE AMERICAN Australian-themed steakhouse chain, serving up juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood.

Kita-ku, Dojima 1-6-20 • TEL: 06-6457-7121

HARDROCK CAFE

weekly specials and full-plate pasta dinners. No smoking.

Abeno-ku, Matsuzaki-cho 2-3-21 • TEL: 06-7850-1412

TIN’S HALL

International chain offering authentic American favorites – including its famous burgers and smokehouse sandwiches – and live music on the weekends.

BARS A perennial favorite for many expats, serving good bar food and drinks. Look out for happy hour from 6–9pm where a beer and generously sized burger combo is just 1,000yen. Free live music on Saturday nights.

3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6120-5711

Tennoji Ward, Minamikawahoricho, 10−3 • TEL: 06-6773-5955

AMERICAN

BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY (KITAHAMA)

DARUMA

5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji-ku • TEL: 06-6773-2225

Kyoto IN THE MOON Low-key music, tasteful lighting, and reasonable prices make this rooftop haven the ultimate location for an evening cocktail.

ROOFTOP BAR

200 RF Kamogawa Bldg, Nakanocho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto • Tel: 075-708-6966

GOMACRO SALON

Great coffee and relaxing decor at this wonderful riverside location in Kitahama, overlooking the Central Public Hall.

No frills, kushikatsu (deep-fried battered meat and vegetables on sticks) dining in front of Tsutenkaku Tower.

Remember the golden rule when reaching for the sauce – no double dipping!

Gomacro is paradise for sesame fans. Everything on the menu—including drinks and desserts—is sesame-based. As well as being vegan, the focus is on healthy and seasonal food.

2 Chome-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6125-5740

Osaka, Naniw-ku, Ebisucho-higashi 2-3-9 • TEL: 06-6645-7056

67-3 Shinmeicho, Nakagyo ward, Kyoto • 075-257-5096

TENNOJI

ZUBORAYA

CAFES AND TEAROOMS

CASUAL KAPPOU IIDA KAPPOU Enjoy exquisite Japanese cuisine served in multiple courses at this nine-seater casual kappou restaurant.

Reservations recommended.

1−1−1 Uehonmachi, Tennoji Ku, Osaka • Tel: 080-2423-4590

LEZZET CRAFTBEER & FOOD EXPERIENCE A craft beer bar with a great tap selection and extensive food menu, including CRAFT BEER BARS

46

JAPANESE

JAPANESE One of Shinsekai’s iconic restaurants. Look for the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair.

Whatever form of blowfish you can imagine, Zuboraya has it at an affordable price.

Naniwa-Ku, Ebisu-Higashi 2-5-5 • TEL: 06-6633-5529

AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARK ITALIAN Airy two-storey trattoria serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated Tenshiba park area. Good choice for families with children.

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

VEGAN

SPICE CHAMBER Counter-style curry restaurant serving up fiery Indian-style curries, accompanied with homemade pickles.

ETHNIC

1F Fukui Bldg., 502 Hakurakuten-cho, Muromachi-dori, Ayanokoji-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku • 075-342-3813 • spicechamber.com

ROCK BAR ING A stalwart of the Kiyamachi bar scene since 1998, this small but cosy rock’n’roll bar promises good times, cheap beer and great music.

BAR

288-201 Minami Kuruyamacho, Nishi Kiyamachidori Takoyakushi-Agaru, Nakagyo-Ku • Tel: 075-255-5087

BEER KOMACHI A small izakayastyle dining bar with seven taps of Japanese craft beer and a good sake menu to boot. Serves excellent food.

CRAFT BEER BARS

444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-746-6152

KYOTO BEER LAB A cosy brewpub run by Kyoto’s own ChaBeer Brewing Company, offering some rather unusual beers, including its American Hopped Green Tea Pale Ale, infused with green tea grown in nearby Wazuka-cho.

CRAFT BEER BARS

Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201 • TEL: 075-352-6666

MILTON’S KYOTO Cosy hole-in-the-wall 8-seater bar run by Englishspeaking local artist, Milton.

A huge choice of liquors to choose from, including a good range of rums and whiskies.

Non smoking.

BARS

Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F

UMENOHANA KARASUMA Tofu in all its forms and variations, coupled with seasonal vegetables and presented in a stunning fine dining setting.

English menu available.

JAPANESE

Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West 18 Bldg. B1F • TEL: 075-254-0566

Food & Drink

See Kansaifinder.com for more KATSUKURA SANJO Grind your own sesame seeds at this stylish chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants. Great value set meals including all-you-can-eat rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the original store.

JAPANESE

16, Ishibashicho, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075212-3581

KUSHIKURA Charcoal grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables dishes served in a beautiful 100-year-old traditional kyo-machiya house.

NISHITOMIYA CROQUETTE SHOP

Eagle Bldg B1F, 4−7−20 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 050-5285-7538

Gourmet croquettes paired with wine and tasty appetizers served in a cozy bar; at wine barrels that double as tables or on stools at the counter. These special fusion croquettes are even available for takeout.

CAFE AGEHA

FUSION RESTAURANTS

Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, Kawaramachi Matsubara Sagaru Uematsu-cho 735 • TEL: 075-202-9837

2-4-8 Nakayamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-321-2780

Hyogo

Scones, brownies, Victoria sponge cakes - this little bakery is a homage to British baking, but sells out fast.

DAIZUYA

5-1-1 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • ugbakery.com

JAPANESE

584 Hiiragi-cho Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075213-2211

FALAFEL GARDEN Laid-back Israeli cafe and restaurant near Demachiyanagi. Authentic falafel and other vegetarian-friendly options available.

ETHNIC

15-2 Tanaka Kamiyanagicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-712-1856 • www. falafelgarden.com

JAPANESE A perfect pit stop after a morning exploring the Kitano area, Ageha serves healthy brown rice lunch sets and tempting fruit tarts from its spacious location near the top of Tor Road.

UNDERGROUND BAKERY BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES

The variety of Daizuya’s soy-based offerings— including firm and soft tofu, regional varieties, and even tofu skin with avocado—is matched only by the range of condiment options. If you’re not fond of bean curd, see the à la carte menu for alternatives, such as grilled chicken, or shrimp and avocado salad.

VEGETARIAN

BAAN THAI THAI Popular Thai restaurant tucked away near Ikuta-jinja shrine, that offers spicy Thai favorites in cosy surroundings.

1-8-8 Kitanagasadori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-391-0545

BAKERY RIKI Tiny bakery in Motomachi drawing crowds with its impressive range of freshly baked breads and sweet treats. Get there early.

DANIEL LEE

1-23-16 Nakayamatedori, Chuo-ku • TEL: 078-251-1886

PIZZERIA AZZURRI Delicious authentic Napoli-style pizzas and antipasto, served from a small location near Kitano. One of the most popular pizzerias in Kobe, so be sure to make a reservation, or arrive early.

Chuo Ward, Yamamotodori, 3-7-3 • TEL: 078-241-6036

GYOSHO TAKA-AKI

4-5-3 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 050-5869-0268

SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS

FARMSTAND

Delightfully retro interior and authentic Hong Kong-style chinese tea and desserts, served at tables labelled as Hong Kong metro stations.

Farm-to-table is the concept at this Kitano-zaka cafe and market serving healthy and nutritious lunch sets (¥1,000), homemade cakes, and local dairy soft-serve ice cream.

3-1-16 Sannomiyacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-3530 • tim-ma-ma.com

1-7-15 Yamamoto-dori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • eatlocalkobe.org

CHINESE

3-3-6 2F Sannomiya-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-335-0520

Popular, stylish open-plan cafe on Kitano-zaka, serving up food all day, including bistro-style lunch plates and homemade desserts.

2-2-9 Yamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-0252

HONG KONG SWEETS CAFE TIM MA MA

Organic vegan fare anywhere in Japan is a rarity, but head to this cosy second floor eatery in Motomachi and enjoy a delicious plant-based lunch plate or coconut curry. Their falafel pita bread sandwich also hits all the right notes. Just around the corner from the BAL building.

TRITON CAFE CAFES & TEAROOMS

authentic Indian dining with a warm spacious atmosphere, popular with Kobe expats.

SONA RUPA INDIAN Upscale

VEGAN

Chuo-ku, Motomachi-dori 3-11-10 • TEL: 078-332-1660

A haven for seafood lovers in the center of Kobe. There’s an upstairs and a downstairs and on the way in, there are tanks and boxes brimming with the fruits of the ocean—succulent tuna, creamy sea urchin, and chewy abalone— straight from Kobe’s central fish market. One of four restaurants in the Taka-Aki family, this flagship branch also boasts a well-stocked bar.

2-7-4 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-392-8585

Yidaki Cafe

ETHNIC Authentic southern-Indian home-cooked food, served from this small, cosy family-run restaurant in Motomachi. The lamb or chicken biryani comes highly recommended.

ITALIAN

BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES

HYOGO

INDUSRAY

JAPANESE

BOND A spacious, sleek open plan interior serving up quality pasta dishes and trattoria-style mains just in front of the Mosque in Kobe’s Kitano area. Their chocolate tart with mountainsansho is a real treat.

ITALIAN

Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 3-3-5 • TEL: 078-252-0052

Need more dining options?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

47

Maps & Info

Welcome To Kansai Getting Around

Taxis

The Kansai area covers the prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. There is so much to explore, so you’ll need to prioritize your time wisely. Its main travel hubs are Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed rail networks, including the shinkansen (bullet train).

On regular trains, you can travel between Osaka and Kyoto in about 45 mins, and between Kobe and Osaka in about 30 mins. If you are here on holiday, pick up a convenient travel pass, such as the Kansai Thu Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai One Pass (kansaionepass.com), to avoid having to negotiate the ticket machines. Use a website such as HyperDia (hyperdia.com) to check train times and platforms from your smartphone.

Fares start from ¥500. The drivers wearing white gloves and official hats tend to be the most courteous, but don’t expect English to be widely understood.

Have your destination name and address on hand in Japanese. As of February 2019, taxis can now be ordered using the Uber app.

Trains and Subways There is an excellent rail network connecting all corners of Kansai. As well as JR (Japan Rail), there are numerous private railway companies servicing the area, including Keihan (Osaka/ Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/ Nagoya). Each line operates several types of train. For the fastest trains, look for the Limited Express service trains.

Be aware that Local trains stop at every station on the line, so only take them if no other type of train stops at your station.

Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto and are an extremely efficient way to get around the cities.

Tip: Pick up a Railway Network map from a major station or Tourist Information Center.

Airport Transfers To/from downtown Osaka, the most convenient option is the Nankai Rapi:t Express service (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, take the JR Airport Express HARUKA service (75 mins).

OSAKA

ATMs and Credit Cards

Hotels and Guesthouses

If you’re using Visa, you will be able to withdraw cash at most bank or convenience-store ATMs. If you’re using Mastercard, your best bet for withdrawing money is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other ATMs in Kansai do not accept Mastercard. It is not common to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards in Japan, even for expensive purchases. Many shops and restaurants do not offer this service, so be sure to carry plenty of cash with you.

Conrad Osaka, Hyatt Regency, Nikko Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Ritz Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka, InterContinental Hotel Osaka

Wi-Fi Getting connected in Kansai can be tricky. Renting a smartphone or SIM card at the airport is the safest option, to connect to the internet over a 3G or 4G network.

In Osaka, you can access the Osaka Free Wi-Fi service at train and subway stations, stores and facilities throughout the prefecture.

Accidents and Emergencies Ambulance/Fire service: Tel. 119 Police: Tel. 110

Buses For out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.

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GET KANSAI SCENE Kansai Scene is available from the following major outlets in the Kansai region:

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

Tourist Information Centers Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Osaka), Hankyu Tourist Center Umeda, Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Namba), Kansai Tourist Information Center (KIX), Kansai Tourist Information Center (Shinsaibashi), Nankai Information Center (Namba) Shops Kinokuniya Bookstore Umeda, Kinokuniya Honmachi, Tower Records Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe

KYOTO

Hotels and Guesthouses Royal Hotel, Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Nikko Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kyoto Tourist Information Center, Kansai Tourist Information Center Kyoto, Kyoto International Community House Shops Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, GEAR KOBE

Hotels and Guesthouses Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe Portopia Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kobe International Community Center, Hyogo International Plaza Shops Junkudo Nishinomiya, Junkudo Sannomiya, Kinokuniya Kobe

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Post Office

Umeda Sky Building

Shangrila

Club Azul

Hub

Hankyu Tourist Center

Yodobashi Camera

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Hankyu Umeda Sta.

New Hankyu Osaka Hotel

Grand Front Osaka / Knowledge Capital

German Consulate 35F

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Cine Libre Umeda

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Osaka Loop Line Kitano Hosp.

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TGI Fridays Nishiumeda Melbourne Dai-3 Outback Coffee Bldg.

Dai-1 2F Dai-2 Bldg.

Herbis Steakhouse Bldg.

Creamy Osaka Exeo The Ritz-Carlton Kita Shinchi 33F Tanimachi Line Osaka .2 Captain No e t Kangaroo Rou Mister Kelly’s

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Osaka YWCA

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Dojima River Forum

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Bank of Japan

City Hall

Museum of Oriental Ceramics Osaka City N aniw Public Hall aba shi GARB Weeks

Tosabori River

Mitsui Garden Hotel APA Hotel

Osaka

Science Museum

Beer Belly

Rihga Nakanoshima Inn

Mitsui Sumitomo Bank

3

Library

Brooklyn Roasting Company Kitahama

Osaka International Convention Center (Grand Cube Osaka) Sumitomo Hosp.

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kitahama

Midosuji

Craft Beer Base Garden

TAKAMURA Wine & Coffee Roasters

Yotsubashisuji

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Kitamido Utsubo Tennis Center

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The St. Regis, Osaka

Hard Rock Cafe Osaka Chuo Line

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shi

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SHINMACHI 1

Life

Maharaja Minami Anngon

Big Beans Supermarket Hearton Mizuho Hotel Via Inn Bank Hotel Nishiohashi

Namba Shrine

MoeJoe

Hearton Hotel

bi-grace nail Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau

Saturdays NYC

Nagahori dori

MINAMIHORIE

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Orange Street (shopping

Horie Park

Triangle Chaolua

Tezukayama street) Gallery 2F

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Big Step Hotel Lions Rock The Suite

Yotsubashi line

2

Westwood Bakers

Joule Dormy Inn Sun Hall Balabushka Ghost 4F Ultralounge Mustang Moonshine Slices Moon Tower

Ohno Memorial Hospital

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Osaka Shochikuza

Pure Osaka

Vista Grande Kaneyoshi Osaka ibis Styles Ryokan Osaka

Don Quijote

Hozenji Temple Osaka Floral Inn

NAMBA

Toho Cinemas Namba annex

Visitors Information Center

MUJI/LOFT Tower Takashimaya Records Absinthe Dept. Store Solaar Swissôtel Maruzen Nankai Osaka

Pub Bar 30 2F Naniwa Sports Center Naniwa Post Office

Jack & Queen B

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

Naniwa Ward Office

National Bunraku Theater Nipponbashi sta.

BIC Camera

Nankai Namba Station

Namba Oriental Hotel

Misono Building

Namba Plaza Hotel

Singh’s Kitchen Jazz Bar B-Roxy

APA Hotel

NIPPONBASHI

4

Kuromon Market

Sofmap

McDonalds Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium

NAMBA -NAKA

3

Sunroute DOTONBORIHotel Osaka Namba

Kokopelli

Sennichimae line

Fraser Residence

5

Dormy Inn

Fujiya Hotel

SOEMON-CHO

Burlesque B1

B1

Shimanouchi Library

Cinquecento

Zerro

Toho Cinemas Namba

MOTOMACHI

Bar Jaai

Vanity

Namba Hips

Little Long Beach

Hotel Ichiei

2 Minami Police Station

HIGASHI- soma SHINSAIBASHI

Namba

Casa Lapichu

Naniwa Park

50

2F Murphy’s

Kinryu Ramen

New Japan Spa Plaza ALZAR Rooftop Bar OO

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Hotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka

AEON MaxValu

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Don Quijote

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South

Kansai Tourist Information Center

Nam

OCAT

APA Hotel

Dotonbori Hotel

Namba Hatch

Tominaga Hospital

Apple Store

Triangle Park

Ark Hotel

Daimaru Dept.

Silver Ball Planet Cinem @rt

Yamaya

Nagahoribashi

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5F Boy FootRock &BEERS

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Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)

TABIJI Kitchen

Nest Hotel

GAP

Uniqlo

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Critters Burger Via Inn

Nikko Hotel EXODUS Osaka Hana Banco Hostel OPA Cafe Hotel Vano Mystays Absinthe Circus

Granknot Coffee

Tokyu Hands

El Pancho

Midosuji line

Sauce Boss

Nishitetsu Inn

Yotsubash

Saboten Base Bistro New Orleans

Covent Garden

Craft Burger

El Zocalo

1

Hearton Hotel

Nagahori Tsurumi-Ryokuchi line

Ali’s Kitchen

Toyoko Inn

KITAHORIE

MINAMI-SEMBA Arthur Murray

Louis Vuitton

Shinsaibashi

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Daiwa Roynet Hotel

C

K2 record Namba PARKS NAMBA PARKS CINEMA

Otaroad

Shinmachi Kita Park

Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)

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Maps & Info

5

Animate Nihonbashi Shop

Toys”R”Us Yamada Denki LABI1 Namba C

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See Kansaifinder.com for more

Osaka Tenmangu Mint Museum

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Osaka Castle

The Lutheran Hotel Tanimachi 4-chome

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Tenmabashi

Hanshin Expressway

Subway Sakaisuji Line

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Hanshin Expressway Higashi Osaka Route

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Osaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry APA Hotel

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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OSAKA Tennoji

A

C

to Kyoto Imperal Palace

Hostel Mundo Chiquito Nijo Castle

Clamp Coffee Sasara

1 Hotel Okura Kyoto City Hall

Hearton Hotel

Tozai Subway Line

Yoboji Temple

Kyotoshiyakusho-mae

Sanjo

Nakamura General Store Mikane-Jinja Shrine

Nijojo-Mae

The Museum of Kyoto

Round One

Honnoji Temple Marker

Kyoto BAL

Gion Shirakawa

Nyorinin Hozoji Temple

Kyoto Art Center

to Maruyama Park

Nishiki Market

2

Bukkoji Temple Hotel Nikko Princess Kyoto

oga

Amore Kiyamachi

Kam

Hanano Yu

Kotoku Park

hijo

Gion Corner

Kennin-ji Temple Hojo Yasui Konpiragu Shrine

Daisenji Higashiyama Ward Office

Yumeyakata Gojo Gojo

Tambaguchi

3

Kyoto Gojo Hotel Shuhokaku to Kiyomizu-dera

3

Seikoro

Ichihime-Jinja Shrine

Otani Hombyo Cemetary Sumiya Motenashi Museum Higashi Honganji Temple

Shichijo

Kyoto Aquarium Umekoji Park

Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto

Kyoto National Museum

Yodobashi Camera Kyoto Railway Museum

Toyokuni-Jinja Shrine

Shosei-en Garden

Nishi Honganji Temple

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2

Shoenji Temple er

Mibudera Temple

Kyoto-Daijingu Shrine

Shijo

Mitsui Garden Hotel

Shin-Omiya

Yasaka Shrine

Gion-S

Kawaramachi

Karasuma

Riv

Omiya

wa

Village Kyoto

Higashiyama

Sanjokeihan

Loft

Rokkakudo Temple Shounji

Kyoto Prefectural Police Station

D

to Heian Shrine

The Ritz-Carlton

Kyoto International Manga Museum

Karasuma Oike

1

Nijo

Chisaku-in Temple

Sanjusangendo

Hyatt Regency Kyoto

Kyoto Tower APA Hotel Rhiga Royal Hotel

4 Kyoto Century Hotel

Bic Camera

Kyoto Station Hotel Granvia

Rokusonno-Jinja Shrine

Imakumano-Jinja Shrine

El Inn Kyoto

New Miyako Hotel

Hotel Keihan Kyoto Grande

k Tofu

uji

Aeon Mall

Toji Sakura Terrace

Kujo

Oji

KYOTO Central

Marutamachi

B

A

Jingu-Marutamachi

Maps & Info

5

Zuirinji Temple

5

Kyoto Terrsa

Tofukuji Temple

Kyoto Brewing Co. A

52

B

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

C

Komyoin

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Grand Prince Hotel Kyoto

Entsu-ji Temple Kamigamo Shrine

C

ICC Kyoto

L i ne

Ota Shrine

uma

Jinko-in Temple

Su bw ay Ka ras

og m Ka

r ve Ri Dori Street

Na

Shimogamo-Jinja

Daishougun Hachi Shrine Aisen-ji Temple

Kyoto Brighton Hotel

Kyoto Imperial Palace B

A

Hankyu Kyoto Line

Eggs ‘n Things

H&M

treet

Police Box Pontocho Park

Hotel Ponto

B

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Shinmonso

river kawa Shira Jam Hostel

Tatsumi Bridge

Gion Kaikan Kyoto Modern Art Museum

Shijo-dori

Kawaramachi

Marui Kyoto

Shoenji Temple

A

Sanjo

Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater Keihan Main Line

Tosa-Inari Shrine (Misaki-jinja)

McDonald’s Takashimaya Department Store Kyoto Daijingu Shrine

Daishogun Shrine

C

Minamiza Theater Hanamiko ji-dori

Junkudo

Shijo

Karasuma Hotel

VOU Art Gallery

Kyoto BAL

Owls Forest Ninja Kyoto Kyoto Kawaramachi OPA Zara

Higashiyama 1

Sanjo

Kitsune Kyoto UrBANGUILD

Gion-S hijo

Karasuma Oike

Tokyu Hands

Kyoto Muse

Ogawa Coffee

Nishiki-tenmangu Shrine Super Hotel

Nishiki Market

Daimaru Kyoto

Hozo Temple

Starbucks

HUB

Kamogawa Riv er

Sugi Drug Shinkyogoku

Kyoto City Tourism Association Visitor Information Hana Hotel

Qu'il Fait Bon

Kiyamachi-dori

Papa Jon's Cafe Rokkaku

McDonald’s

Karasuma

Royal Park Hotel

Sanjo-dori Movix Kyoto Loft Kyoto Game Frank's Panic Chop Shop Seiganji Temple

Inoda Coffee

Ippudo Nishikikouji

Kyoto High School

Yoboji Temple

Honnoji Temple

Cafe Kocsi

Kyonoyado Kaginei

Cocon Karasuma

D

Kyotoshiyakusho-mae

Kyoto Art Center

2

Anraku-ji, and Reikan-ji D

Hiragiya

The Museum of Kyoto

Kyoto Municipal Gender Equality Center Misayama Park

Koiyama

Hounen-in Temple

Tetsugaku-no-michi (Philosopher's Path)

C

Kyoto Hotel Okura

Smart Coffee

Rokkakudo Temple

Higashiyama Jisho-ji (Ginkaku-ji)

Yoshida-jinja Shrine

Comme des Garcons Tozai Line

Hotel Gimmond

Nakagyo Post Office

2

Yasaka Shrine

2

Kanji Museum

Hotel Sunline Gion Corner

D

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53

KYOTO Sanjo

Shimadai Gallery

Kyoto University of Art & Design

C

Hotel Sugicho

Hearton Hotel

Konpuku-ji Temple

Hyakumanben Chion-ji Temple

B

A

Hotel Monterey Kyoto

Imadegawa Dori Street

Higashi Oji Dori S

Stay SAKURA Kyoto Nishijin

Randen Railw ays Kitano Line

Guesthouse KirinYa Kamogawa River

Horikawa Dori Street

Demachiyanagi Sta. Imadegawa Sta.

Hachidai-Jinja Shrine

Shirakawa Dori Street

ori

et

Falafel Garden

Shokoku-ji Temple

Kitano Tenmangu

1

Mototanaka Sta.

Pontocho

ori Str eet

hi D Kawai-Jinja Shrine

Stre

Oji D

Chayama Sta.

Nis

Dori

Nishi

mo

bon

Kurama-guchi Sta.

Enkou-ji Temple

Shisen-do Temple

an O

Hotel Avanshell Kyoto

oga

S en

Hirano-Jinja Shrine

Kyoto International Manga Musuem

Ichijo-ji Sta.

Kita Oji Dori Street

m Shi

Kinkaku-ji

Manshu-in Monzeki Temple

Keih

Kitaouji Sta. Daitoku-ji

Koutou-in Temple

ark aP ath gaw iP mo rag Ka

Imamiya Dori Street

Saginomori Shrine

Kyoto Botanical Garden

ka

Imamiya Shrine

Kinugasa Joshu-ji Temple

Shugaku-in Sta.

Kyoto Concert Hall

1 Rinkyuji Temple

Kitayama Dori S tre et

Matsugasaki Sta.

Kitayama Sta.

Saginomori Imperial Villa

Myoen-ji

Ta ka no Ri ve r

Kitayama

Sekizanzen-in Temple

Yusen-ji

a aw

1 Genko-an Temple

Kitano Hakubaicho Sta.

Takaragaike Sta.

Takaragaike Park

Josho-ji Temple

2

D Line entetsu Eizan D Miyake-Hachiman Sta.

Renge-ji Temple Kokusaikaikan Sta.

KYOTO North

B

A

B

A

C

D

Kitano Museum

Kobe YWCA

Kitanoseiryu Shrine

Hotel Piena Kobe

1

KITANO-CHO Kitanosaka Hosp.

Fudo z

Shiei Yamate subway line

Suwayama Park

Kobe Grocers

k oza

a

The Rock 2F

n Kita

t ee Str arl Pe Kobe Kobe Womens Mosque Junior College Kobe Meister Garden

ak terz Hun

a

ori

-d oto

am

Yam

1

1F Bistrot Cafe De Paris

aka

Migration Museum

d Roa Tor

St. Michael’s International School

2

nn

om

iya

JR

Shinko High School

Sa nn om iya

2

Sansei Hosp.

Sun City en The Harbour NHK 7F Junkudo ns Ikuta Police ka Tavern 7F e t Ikuta jinja Station OS Cinemas ma Midnight Ya Kobe Mint Kobe Hotel Monte Halal Food 5F Hermana Kobe Amalie Tokyu Tower Mickey’s Chicken REI Hotel Iznt Records ya Club 5F George mi 4F o nn Sa Tokyu Hotel iya Hotel Hands Monterey nom Tor Road San 4F Oriental SOGO Dept.

Varit Dental the b kobe 5F Kinokuniya Don Clinic Ali’s Quijote Kobe Kokusai Kitchen Kaikan Troopcafe 3F San Marui 1F HSBC e2 Plaza Village ut Vangard Ro Kobe Kokusai Center o Center Shochiku Plaza East ud Plaza ets t u t.

West ok iya ae s os nom eim Junkudo ek Sannomiya Sannadok ob a K Cine Phoenix H Candeo Palmore e Hosp. lin Hotel Kobe Holiday Inn Express Guild hin ns 2F a H Aoyama Kobe Ikuta Junior High a.

Kobe BAL hi Minato Kobe City School i st Bank yuc e ach Hall Kobe yor uma tom k o i r u h y ma M Plaza c K a i JR Hotel Da tom Cine Libre Kobe Mo Kobe Doll Museum Mitsui Daimaru Sumitomo Dept.

Bank Higashiyuenchi Park Tokyu Oriental REI Hotel Hotel Raja Indian Kobe Luminarie Restaurant Municipal e Museum n lin a ig Ka way Sub Sa

APA Hotel

Sa

nn

om

iya

Kobe Elementary School

Daiwa Roynet Hotel

t Por

r

u ka

chi

line

San

Soraku Park

nd.

Hyogo-ken Prefectural Hall

3

Isogami Park KRAC

eki

o M Han ain aku m Li a ne

ter cen 7F Kobe Legal Partners

hi

4

at om

hi JR

To k

ot om

ac

aid

4

Hotel Sunroute Sopra 3

Bo

ad

r ro

we Flo

NANKIN-MACHI

Hanakuma Park

mo

tom

M

ac

in

KIITO Cafe Fish!

SHINKO-CHO

hiNis

KOBE Sannomiya

Maps & Info

Hotel Okura Kobe

Hotel La Suite Kobe Harborland

Kobe Maritime Museum Jumbo Ferry Terminal

5

Meriken park

Arthur Murray CULMENI 3F

Kobe Harborland umie

OS Cinema Harborland

A

54

5

Kobe Minato Onsen Ren

Kobe Cruise Luminous Kobe 2

umie MOSAIC

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental

B

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

C

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

NARA Overview

Kizu River Yamada Sta. Ke i

Nishi-Kizu Sta.

YAGYU AREA

Kizu Sta.

YAGYU AREA

Jubei s cedar

na wa

Bus Stop

E

xp

re s

Takanohara Sta.

sw

ay

KYOTO

Ama-no-Ishitate Shrine

YAGYU-CHO The main house of Yagyu Houtoku-ji Temple

Ofuji s Well

Narayama Sta. Mausoleums Heijo Sta. Nara-Okuyama Driveway YamatoSaidaiji Sta.

Ima-gawa Stream

NARA

Masakizaka Kendo & Zen Dojyo

Ruin of Mausoleum Enjo-ji Temple

Heijō Palace remains

Yasaka Shrine

Yagyu Kaido Trail Mt. Yoshino

Nara Sta.

Ruin of The House of Yagyu

JR Nara Sta.

Iris garden

CENTRAL NARA

Touge Chaya Jigoku-dani Sekkutsu-butsu

Yuhi-kannon

Nakamura 6 Jizos Housou Jizo

Kubikiri Jizo Asahi-kannon

Kujo Sta.

B

C Chisoku-In

Tengaimon gate of Todaiji

ve

r

HIGASHI SASABOKO-CHO

Sa

ho

Ri

1

D

Shosoin Main Warehouse

West Treasures Warehouse

East Treasures Warehouse

Ryu-shou-In

Imperial Household Agency Shosoin Office

NISHI SASABOKO-CHO

1 Todaiji Nigatsudo

Ruin of Yakemon (Chumon) the gate of Todaiji Nara Women’s University

Todai-ji Karakuni Shrine (Tengu Shrine)

Hotel Tamar

Todaiji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo)

OSHIAGE-CHO YURUGI-CHO

SHUKUIN-CHO

Ruin of Saidaimon the gate of Todaiji

Guesthouse Nara Backpackers

NOBORIOJI-CHO

Nara Prefectural Museum

SUIMON-CHO

Mt. Wakakusa

Oak Hostel Nara Nara Prefectural Office

Nandaimon Gate of Todaiji

Himuro Shrine

Hall of Kofuku-ji “Chu-kon-do”

Hoku’endo

The Fifty-Two Steps

Tourist Info Center

(luggage storage & delivery service)

Sarusawa Pond

Yoshidaya

GANRININ-CHO

Nara Pickle Shop

2

Musashino

Nara Kasugano Int’l Forum Mizuya Shrine

Nara National Museum New Wings

Five Storied Pagoda

Nan’endo

Matsunoya

Kofuku-ji Main Hall

Kozen-in

(2F)

LAMP BAR

Mont-bell

Yume-Kaze Plaza Shops & Cafes

Nara National Museum

“Tou-kon-do” LBK Craft

Int’l Forum IRAKA Annex

Yoshiki-en

Kintetsu line Nara Sta.

Tourist Info Center

NARA PARK

Todaiji Museum

Isuien Neiraku Museum

NAKASUJI-CHO 2

Tamukeyama Hachimangu Kagami-Ike Pond

Kikusuiro

Shikitei Hotel Pagoda

Hitokotonushi Shrine Kasuga-taisha

Edosan Inn

Tsubomiwa Shrine

Aoba Chaya

Roku-en

Enso Bairin Tei

Wakamiya Shrine

IKENO-CHO

Ara Pond

Nara Hotel

Ukimido Pavilion Kinryu Shrine

3

3

Yuga Shrine

Kii Shrine

Meishou Kyu-Daijoin Teien Former Residnece of Naoya Shiga (novelist)

Gango-ji Gokuraku-bo

Hotel Wellness Asukaji Kuuki Cake Shop

Zutou Pyramid A

Jurin-in Temple

B

Yagyu Kaido Trail C

Kantoku Temple Fukuu-in D

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55

NARA Central

A

WEST Japan

Maps & Info B

A

C

D

E

KANSAI 1 TOKYO

Kyoto Shiga

Hyogo Osaka

Mie Nara

Wakayama

Tot Tottor Yonago

Mt. Daisen

Izumo-taisha Shrine Izumo

TOTTORI

2

SHIMANE

OKAYAMA

3

HIROSHIMA

Shin Kurashiki

Mihara

Hiroshima

YAMAGUCHI

Kurashiki Fukuyama

Shod Islan

Shin Onomichi

Seto Ohashi

Onomichi

Hiroshima

Shin Iwakuni

Naoshima Art Island

Angel Road

Itsukushima-jinja Shrine Takamatsu

Yamaguchi

KAGAWA

Tokuyama

4

Korakuen Garden Okayama

Fukuyama Higashi Hiroshima

Okayama

Shin Yamaguchi Imabari

TO Matsuyama

EHIME

5

KOCHI Kochi

A

56

B

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com

C

D

E

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more G

H Dinosaur Museum

Ho kk aid o

F

I Katsuyama

To Ni ga ta

&

Fukui

FUKUI

1

Gujo

Tsuruga

Maizuru

ttori Sand Dunes ri

Mikata-goko Five Lakes Cycling Course

Obama

Takahama

GIFU

Kinosaki Maibara

Mt. Hyonosen

Gifu Hashima

2

Lake Biwa Hikone-jo Castle

KYOTO

Tamba

Oumihachiman

Enryaku-ji Temple

HYOGO

Sasayama

aid

Mt. Hiei

Kyoto

k To

Otsu

Kyoto

Himeji

Ako

SHIGA

AICHI

Mikawa Anjo

Kinkaku-ji

Uji Himeji-jo Castle Sa ny oS hin ka ns en

Suzuka Circuit

Arima Iga

Mt. Rokko

Shin Osaka

Shin Kobe

do nd

3

Toudai-ji Temple

Osaka

Akashi Ohashi

Nara

Sakai

Kansai International Airport

Awaji

Tsu

Osaka-jo Castle

Kobe Nishi Akashi

Toba Aquarium

OSAKA

MIE

Ise Ise Grand Shrine

NARA

Awaji Island Naruto Ohashi

Nagoya

Koga

Fushimi Inari Aioi

Nagoya

n

se

an

ink

h oS

Wakayama

Sumoto

Yoshino

Hashimoto

Shionoha Odaigahara

Naruto

Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)

Mt. Koya

4 Mt. Shakagatake Mt. Obako

Tokushima

WAKAYAMA

OKUSHIMA

Kumano

Hongu

Bridges

Kumanohongu Shrine

Ferries Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail

Shingu

Tanabe

Mt. Nachi

Kumano Kodo Trail

Shirahama Nachi Falls

5

Ninja Village

Nachikatsuura

Hot Springs Kushimoto

Ski Spots Beaches

F

G

H

I

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