Kansai Scene 222: Summer 2019

SUMMER

JUN–AUG 2019 No. 222

Free

WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE

Summer

Inside…

Explore

A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND IN MIE

Meet the ama divers of Mie, watch Kagura theater, and climb Mt. Fuji Sights

SEE THE SUNRISE FROM THE TOP OF MT. FUJI

Culture

KAGURA: JAPAN’S ANCIENT PERFORMANCE ART

Discover

KANSAI’S TRADITIONAL AMA WOMEN DIVERS

Plus

WHAT’S ON EAT & DRINK SIGHTSEEING MAPS

Discover Hiroshima’s Scenic Beauty in Akiota-cho

YOICHI SHIDAREZAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOM A stunning 12m tall weeping cherry sitting atop a small hillock is lit up during its brief, but spectacular spring bloom OSORAKAN SNOW PARK

Breathtaking views, fabulous hiking, exciting snow sports and relaxing hot spring accommodation await

Japan’s southernmost ski resort, offering long runs for all levels of skiers and snowboarders, as well as snow trekking and igloo building

SANDANKYO GORGE A stunning 13km river gorge, awarded 3 stars by the French travel guide Blue Guide and selected as one of the top 100 scenic beauty spots in Japan

INI TANADA Picture-perfect terraced paddy fields, offering stunning photo opportunities year-round

Nukui Springs Hotel Offers traditional outdoor hot spring baths overlooking Lake Ryuki in Hiroshima’s Akiota-cho. Relax in comfortable western style or Japanese tatami mat rooms and enjoy our award-winning French dining.

Akiota-cho

Okayama

Himeji

Kyoto Osaka Kobe

Hiroshima

Address: 4692-7, Kake, Akiotacho, Yamgatagun, Hiroshima 731-3501, Japan Tel: +81 (0)826-22-1200 Access: 1 hour by car from Hiroshima IC

RESERVATIONS

www.nukui-sp.com

CONTENTS

17

Summer Jun /Jul /Aug

16

10

KANSAI FINDER

28 Events & Festivals

08

17

32

A Perfect Long Weekend in Mie

Sights & Attractions

Beach Escape RANDY POEHLMAN

Make the most of Mie in a few short days.

Secluded spots to splash in the ocean this summer.

10

Art & Exhibitions

22

36

Japan’s Great Climb

Japan’s Sea Women CELIA POLKINGHORNE Keeping the Japanese ama diver tradition alive.

14

Live Music

ASHLEY OWEN Everything you need to know about climbing Mt. Fuji.

38

26

Clubs & Nightlife

40

Kansai Performing Arts

Divine Drama JASON HAIDAR Japan’s oldest performance art is now on show in Osaka.



34

Food & Drink

ARIA AOYAMA Noh and its connection with Tenjin Matsuri.

44 Getting Around / Maps

What’s On Guide

ON THE COVER: VETERAN AMA DIVER MIWAKO OGAWA, JASON HAIDAR THIS PAGE: MIKIMOTO PEARL ISLAND AMA DIVER, JASON HAIDAR; KAGURA, JASON HAIDAR; ISE JINGU SHRINE, JASON HAIDAR

Features

AND MUCH MORE… CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

ABOUT KANSAI SCENE KANSAI SCENE PROVIDES ENGLISHLANGUAGE ARTICLES, INFORMATION AND LISTINGS FOR VISITORS AND RESIDENTS OF THE KANSAI AREA. KANSAI SCENE IS PUBLISHED BY MOJOWORKS KK, WITH SUPPORT FROM CB, LTD. Publisher................................Daniel Lee Managing Editor.......Celia Polkinghorne Editor................................. Jason Haidar Art Director............................Daniel Lee Production........................Mojoworks KK Listings Contributors Art.................................... Brooke Larsen Cinema.............................. Miyoko Morita Events..................................Tomoko Ishii Live Music....................... Phillip Jackson Club.................................. Saiko Fujiwara ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES CB, Ltd Email................ sales@kansaiscene.com Tel......................................03-6260-9125 GENERAL ENQUIRIES General ....... mailbox@kansaiscene.com Editorial.......... editor@kansaiscene.com Tel. .....................................06-6539-1717 Fax. ....................................06-7635-4791 Address.................. Osaka-shi, Nishi-ku, .....................................Shinmachi 3-5-7, ............................................Eiko Bldg. 2F ..........................................Mojoworks KK Website........................kansaiscene.com

W

elcome to our summer issue and to the first edition printed in the new Reiwa era. Recently, Mie Prefecture has been abuzz with worshipers flocking to the iconic Ise Grand Shrine to pay respects to the new emperor and pray for good fortune in the Reiwa era. So, we are shining the spotlight on Mie this issue and all the reasons why it makes a great summer adventure (p. 17). The Ise Lobster Festival happens every year on the first Saturday of June at Hamajima-cho in Shima National Park. If you’re heading to Mie to enjoy its famed culinary gem, why not visit the ama diver huts of Toba and Shima while you’re there and eat a seafood lunch with the traditional women divers (p. 10). Sweltering Kansai summer comes with a host of other spectacular festivals like the sizzling Nachi Fire Festival, which lights up the Nachi Taisha

area of Wakayama on July 14.

Fireworks shows boom across the skies in nearly all Kansai prefectures this season, and Kyoto and Osaka both celebrate their largest annual festivals with Gion Matsuri taking over Kyoto streets on July 17 and 24 and Tenjin Matsuri bringing Osaka to life on July 24 and 25.

An important note that on June 28 and 29, the leaders of the Group of Twenty will gather in Osaka as Japan hosts its first ever G20 Summit. As a result, largescale traffic restrictions will be in place from June 27 to 30. The restriction zone includes parts of highways, central Osaka, and the Kansai International Airport vicinity. If you are in or traveling to Osaka on these days, remember to give yourself plenty of extra time to get around. Wherever your hot and sweaty adventures may take you, we hope you have a fabulous summer in Kansai.

CELIA POLKINGHORNE editor@ kansaiscene.com

DAZZLING DISPLAY LAKE BIWA GREAT FIREWORKS DISPLAY ON AUG 8

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CALENDAR

Seasonal Highlights

MOUNTED ARCHERY DISPLAY AT OMIJINGU SHRINE IN SHIGA

COLORFUL LED PRAYER STARS ARE FLOATED DOWN THE RIVER DURING OSAKA’S LEGEND OF THE MILKY WAY FESTIVAL

Jun

costumes plant rice seedlings adjacent to the shrine. See p.29 for details.

JUN 2

YABUSAME SHINJI – JAPANESE HORSEBACK ARCHERY

JUN 20

BAMBOO CUTTING RITUAL

Shiga Traditional Japanese mounted archery performed to honor the ancient emperor Tenji at Omi Shrine. See p.28 for details.

Kyoto In this millenniumold ritual at Kurama temple, priests compete to cut 4m long bamboo poles with short ceremonial swords. See p.28 for details.

JUN 4

JUN 8–JUL 15

OTAUE SAI – RICE PLANTING CEREMONY

DISCOVERING NAGATA YUJI, UNSUNG MAKI-E MASTER

Shiga An important religious ceremony celebrating farming, in which 70 saotome (young maidens) in colorful

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Shiga Exhibition of the mysterious master craftsman Nagata Yuji

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

at the Miho Museum - an artwork in itself.

See p.35 for details.

Jul JUL 7

OSAKA LEGEND OF THE MILKY WAY Osaka 70 thousand LED “prayer stars” will be floated down the Okawa River in Nakanoshima Park to celebrate tanabata. See p.30 for details.

JUL 6–8

EVENING OF THE STAR FESTIVAL TANABATA IN SHITENNOJI Osaka

Celebration of the traditional Japanese star festival tanabata, featuring a 27-meter bamboo-grass tunnel and an artificial LED Milky Way at Shitennoji Temple. See p.29 for details.

JUL 14

NACHI OGI MATSURI NACHI FIRE FESTIVAL Wakayama One of the greatest religious fire-themed events in Japan, the Nachi Fire Festival takes place in the picturesque area surrounding the shrine Nachi-taisha in Wakayama. See p.31 for details.

EXHIBITION OF MAKI-E MASTER NAGATA YUJI AT THE MIHO MUSEUM

TOP: HUGE FLAMING TORCHES AT THE NACHI FIRE FESTIVAL LEFT: COLORFUL FIREWORKS REFLECT IN LAKE BIWA DURING THE ANNUAL FIREWORKS DISPLAY RIGHT: PROCESSION DURING TENJIN MATSURI BEFORE THE BOAT PARADE AND FIREWORKS LATER IN THE EVENING

JUL 28

WAKAYAMA PORT FIREWORKS DISPLAY Wakayama Large summer fireworks display in Wakayama drawing crowds of up to 30,000 spectators annually.

See p.31 for details.

JUL 1–31

GION FESTIVAL Kyoto One of the top three festivals in Japan featuring a parade of sumptuously decorated yamaboko floats on Jul 17 & 24.

JUL 24 & 25

TENJIN MATSURI Osaka The Tenjin Matsuri is one of the largest and most colorful festivals in Japan, drawing a million festival-goers

every year. A highlight of the Osaka summer.

JUL 19 - AUG 25

10,000 fireworks launched into the sky above Lake Biwa. See p.29 for details.

SETOUCHI TRIENNALE

AUG 16

Kagawa One of Japan’s largest and most popular art events, the Setouchi Triennale is an outdoor art festival co-hosted by a number of small islands in the Seto Inland Sea. See p.9 for details.

Kyoto On the final day of the Obon festival, giant bonfires in the shape of kanji and other motifs burn on the five mountains surrounding Kyoto City. See p.28 for details.

Aug AUG 8

LAKE BIWA GREAT FIREWORKS DISPLAY Shiga One of the best pyrotechnics shows in Japan with some

OKURIBI BONFIRE

AUG 16–18

SUMMER SONIC 2019 OSAKA Osaka 3-day outdoor music festival on Maishima Sports Island. This year’s headline acts include Red Hot Chili Peppers, B’z, BabyMetal and 70s rockers The Damned. summersonic.com

LOOKING FOR MORE THINGS TO DO? COMPLETE EVENT LISTINGS CAN BE FOUND ONLINE AT KANSAIFINDER. COM

AUG 16

FLOATING LANTERN CEREMONY Kyoto On the final day of the Obon holidays, 6,000 to 7,000 floating lanterns are released on the Katsugawa river to bid farewell to ancestral spirits.

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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DISCOVER Whether you’re looking to surf, scuba dive, camp shoreside, or simply lounge by the water with a good book, Kansai has some fabulous beaches to escape to this summer.

Beach Retreat Beat the heat this summer with a trip to one of Kansai’s top beach spots.

TEXT: RANDY POEHLMAN

1 SHIRAHAMA, WAKAYAMA

Wakayama’s best beach option, Shirahama offers various hotels and beachside hot springs as well as popular cafes, restaurants and bars. This broad, white sandy beach (with sand shipped in from Australia!) claims to be the “sister beach” of Waikiki in Hawaii. The resortstyle town provides for a wonderful summer getaway. Adventure World, which is a large zoo and adventure park, is close by and popular with children. Wakayama’s second worthwhile beach option is Kushimoto, a well-known as a hotspot for scuba diving. The unique Hashiguiwa rock formations make for stunning coastal views.

ACCESS FROM OSAKA: From Tennoji Station, take the LTD. EXP KUROSHIO 1 to Shirahama Station

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4

5

AWAJISHIMA, HYOGO

SUMA BEACH, HYOGO

KYOTANGO, KYOTO

LAKE BIWA, SHIGA

Accessible via the long, picturesque Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, Awajishima offers an array of off-the-beaten-track island beaches. The most popular of which is the Ohama beach on the eastern coast. The relaxed atmosphere and slow life of the island makes these beaches ideal for camping. Awaji Island is well known for offering various outdoor activities like fishing, surfing, kayaking, and boating. There is no train service on the island so bus, ferry, and private car are the recommended travel options.

A short train ride from downtown Kobe, Suma beach is one of the summertime staples of the Kansai region. The boardwalk along Suma beach has some great places for snacks, lunch and drinks. The beach is popular with younger people and has a definite party vibe. Music, alcohol, ball games and Frisbees dominate the landscape but families with children can also find solace along the beach front. At JR Suma Station, you can literally walk out of the train station and onto the beach, so public access here is the most convenient.

The beaches of Kyo-Tango are less crowded than others but are equal in beauty. The public beach is well known to surfers and daytrippers. The region also features Amanohashidate—one of the three views of Japan—a picturesque 3km long sandbar with 7,000 pine trees. The stretch can be traversed on foot and is rumored to look like a dragon when viewed from the surrounding cliffs. The region is best explored via private car but there is train access to Amanohashidate which takes two hours from Kyoto.

Omi-Shirahama on Lake Biwa is a freshwater beach found in Takashima, Shiga Prefecture.

This lakeside beach provides ample opportunities to try paddle boarding, kayaking, windsurfing and kitesurfing. Camping and barbecuing at various points surrounding the lake is a wellingrained tradition. The lake can be reached by using the JR train from Kyoto Station.

ACCESS FROM OSAKA: Take a highway bus service to Awajishima from OCAT terminal in Namba or Osaka Hankyu Sanbangai in Umeda

8

ACCESS FROM OSAKA: From JR Osaka

Station, take a JR Special Rapid Service to Sannomiya then change to the JR Gakkentoshi Local Line to Suma Station

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

ACCESS FROM OSAKA: From JR Osaka Station, Take the Fukuchiyama Line to Fukuchiyama Station, then change to the LTD. EXP TANGO RELAY 1 for Amanohashidate

ACCESS FROM OSAKA: From JR Osaka Station, take a JR Special Rapid Service to Yamashina Station, then change to the JR Kosei Line and go to Adogawa Station

PHOTO:SHIRAHAMA BEACH, ISTOCK.COM/BEE32

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WHAT’S ON

SETOUCHI TRIENNALE:

Japan’s Spectacular Outdoor Island Art Festival TEXT: KS

Passport and Tickets While you can pay to view each artwork individually (¥300 to ¥510 per exhibit), it is much better value to buy a Triennale passport for ¥4,000. This cannot be ordered online but can be purchased at many locations like convenience stores and travel agencies.

It can also be bought upon arrival at the main Setouchi Triennale information center near Takamatsu Port.

A three-day ferry pass is available for ¥2,500 (¥1,250 for children) that covers eight ferry routes.

These cannot be bought online either, but during the Triennale, they can be purchased at the relevant ferry ticket counters and at the Triennale information centers at the Takamatsu, Tonosho, and Uno ports.

You can find a timetable of all the ferries on the official Triennale site.

PHOTO: YAYOI KUSAMA’S YELLOW PUMPKIN (NAOSHIMA ISLAND, JAPAN 2015) , ISTOCK.COM/ALEXSTOEN

SETOUCHI-ARTFEST.JP/ EN/ACCESS

E

very three years on the eastern islands of the Seto Inland Sea, the Setouchi region hosts one of Japan’s largest and most popular art events— the Setouchi Triennale. If a combination of art, island culture, scenic views, and local seafood sounds like a treat to you, then make your way to the 2019 Setouchi Triennale. The summer leg of the event runs from July 19 until August 25 and takes place on a smattering of small islands and two ports of the eastern Inland Sea mostly in Kagawa Prefecture, roughly halfway between Osaka and Hiroshima.

The Yellow Pumpkin by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama is probably the most iconic piece of art in the region set outside on the shores of Naoshima island. The bright, bold, polka dot-laden sculpture has become a symbol of the region and the Setouchi Triennale event, but it is just one of the more than 200 fascinating sculptures, paintings, and installations from artists from all over the globe that you can admire, photograph, and interact with while exploring the islands during the festival.

The Setouchi Triennale is centered around the city of Takamatsu and the main islands taking part in the festival are Shodoshima, Naoshima, Teshima, Ogijima, Megijima, Oshima, and Inujima. The event also includes Uno Port in the city of Tamano.

Considering the geography of the region, it perhaps makes the most sense to have a base in Takamatsu City from which to commute to the islands every day, rather than traveling from island to island. It is the most practical option as there are several choices of accommodations and it is the only place that has direct access to most, if not all, islands.

Island hopping is possible but potentially inconvenient with having to spend a lot of time carrying baggage (as not all islands have lockers in their ports).

Spending one night on an island, however, is something you may wish to do for a more serene overnight experience, and Teshima, Naoshima, and Shodoshima all have a range of good accommodation options.

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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FEATURE

Mermaids of Mie Home to the largest group of sea women left in Japan, Mie Prefecture’s ama divers cling to a disappearing ancient tradition.

TEXT: CELIA POLKINGHORNE

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Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR; ARCHIVE PHOTO, SHIMA CITY TOURISM ASSOCATION

I

t’s mid-morning and Miyuki Taniguchi, a fresh-faced, sprightly woman in her early forties, is free-diving in the chilly blue-green waters off the Shima coast of Mie Prefecture. Clad in a black rubber wetsuit, a white headscarf, and a round face mask, white gloves cover her hands as she parts clumps of seaweed searching for tasty morsels like sea urchin, oysters, or a coveted abalone, which would bring her the most money at the market. The gloves protect her hands from the barbs of stingrays and the sharp teeth of ribboning moray eels.

“Everyone always asks about the sharks,” she says after popping to the surface for air a few feet from the boat, “but there are so many other creatures to beware of. The rays come closer to shore when giving birth and they birth their young in the seaweed. Moray eels hide between the rocks, lashing out to bite when disturbed.” Disgruntled sea creatures, freezing temperatures, and dangerous currents are par for the course for ama, the legendary women divers of Japan. Over the years, some have even lost their lives doing the job they love.

Taniguchi lets out a high-pitched whistle as she regulates her breath and prepares to disappear below the surface once more. The shrill echoes of the iso bue (sea whistle) have been carried on ocean winds for centuries in the rich waters surrounding Mie’s Toba and Shima districts. It is in this part of the country where the largest population of ama divers continue the long-held tradition of free-diving to the ocean floor to harvest shellfish and other delicacies.

Remarkably, ama divers working today still forgo oxygen tanks, plunging to the bottom of the ocean on just a single breath. Their distinctive whistle helps them to keep track of one another and also reset their breathing after coming up for air. With all the elegance and finesse of a mermaid, her legs together and toes pointed, Taniguchi duck dives and vanishes, sometimes to nearly 10 meters deep, to scour the seabed for as long as her breath lasts.

It’s hard to pinpoint just how many thousands of years back this tradition goes, but the word “ama” appears in Manyoshu, the oldest anthology of Japanese poetry, compiled sometime around VETERAN AMA DIVER MIWAKO OGAWA

As long as passionate women like these exist in this community, the sounds of the ama sea whistle will echo on in Mie for years to come.

AMA DIVERS MIWAKO OGAWA AND MIYUKI TANIGUCHI PREPARE TO COOK A SEAFOOD FEAST

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

11

759 AD. Many Westerners first learned of these Japanese mermaids in the years following World War II. Until this time, they wore nothing more than a loincloth, a diving mask, and a bandana to protect their heads during dives. Eventually, they began to cover up with allwhite cloth outfits and ultimately, came to wear the black rubber wetsuits of today. It is said the reason women were initially better able to dive than men is that they have more subcutaneous fat to keep them warm under water.

Ama were once the lifeblood of coastal communities and have been practicing sustainable fishing for centuries, but climate change coupled with new fishing technologies and overfishing means their tradition faces an uncertain future. Today, only about 2,000 ama remain in Japan­­­­­­­­­—at least 8,000 fewer than in their post-WWII heyday—with the largest group of them clustered in Mie Prefecture.

Back on shore at the airy wooden seaside hut of Satoumi-an at the southern end of the Shima Peninsula,

12

veteran ama diver Miwako Ogawa ushers us inside to sit by the fire where she and Taniguchi would cook a meal of shellfish, squid, rice, and miso soup.

Salt-licked huts like these were once an integral part of working ama life where the divers could rest and socialize between morning and afternoon dives.

Today, they are where visitors to the region meet the ama and share a seafood lunch while hearing tales of ama life from the divers themselves.

At 72, independent and vivacious, Ogawa is proof that age is no obstacle for Japan’s free-diving fisherwomen. She started diving when she was 50 after the pearl farm she worked for fell on hard times. Her grandmother, mother, and two sisters are all ama divers who began working around age 16 after graduating from middle school. Ogawa often drove the boat for them when they went diving, so when her pearl farm employer started to struggle, her sisters taught her to dive. Before ama started wearing rubber wetsuits in the mid-1960s, they wore simple white cloth outfits and retired

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

around age 60, but since the rubber wetsuits keep them much warmer, they can dive for many years longer. Ogawa wants to dive for as long as possible but says these days it’s hard to make a living as an ama, which is one reason why young Japanese aren’t interested in pursuing the tradition.

“When I first started, there were more shells, but they have been decreasing over the years,” she explains. “The number of abalone is especially falling. The seaweed arame is decreasing because of global warming—it’s what the abalone eat.” An abalone has to be at least 10cm by 6cm in size to be sold at the market— at this size, the divers know the abalone has reproduced at least once. Ogawa says that even though ama have always been careful not to deplete the ocean’s resources, the numbers of abalone and other shellfish have nonetheless declined drastically.

This is part of the multi-layered challenge facing Mie’s ama diving community. On the one hand, competition for shellfish is ever increasing, so the fewer

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

AN AMA HUT. SALTLICKED HUTS LIKE THESE WERE ONCE AN INTEGRAL PART OF WORKING AMA LIFE WHERE THE DIVERS COULD REST AND SOCIALIZE.

DIVING DEMONSTRATIONS CAN BE WITNESSED EVERY HOUR AT MIKIMOTO PEARL ISLAND

PHOTOS:JASON HAIDAR

How to experience Japan’s ama culture the divers, the easier it is for the existing ones to make a decent living. However, diver numbers need to be maintained in order to uphold the long-lasting ama tradition. The women divers are also an important tourism draw for Mie Prefecture, another reason to keep it alive and pass it on to younger generations. It was once a given that a daughter would one day follow her mother out to sea—the ama tradition has been maintained through fishing families throughout the centuries. But in order to keep it going into the future, the community may have to find ways to attract women from outside the immediate network and bring them into the fold.

Miyuki Taniguchi is one such example. She was born and raised in Osaka and for many years, longed to change her lifestyle and become an ama diver.

She dreamed of being part of a sisterhood, away from the bustle of city life, diving for treasures beneath the waves.

However, because the ama society is linked through families, she thought her dream would remain just that. It

wasn’t until she married a man from Osaka who also wanted to make a permanent move to the Mie region to work in the fishing industry that she thought that maybe her aspirations could be realized. It took two years of integration into the community before Taniguchi felt she could approach the head of the ama society to ask to become a trainee diver, but eventually, at around age 40, she took the plunge and was accepted.

She has now been diving for three years alongside her sempai (senior divers who mentor her), and as she is fairly new to the trade, she is known as a “baby ama.”

For ladies like Taniguchi and Ogawa, ama diving is not mere work, but something they feel driven to do. As long as passionate women like these exist in this community, the sounds of the ama sea whistle will echo on in Mie for years to come.

Ama diver huts such as Satoumi-an in Shima and Ama Hut Hachiman in Toba provide the opportunity to enjoy fresh seafood prepared by traditional ama divers where you learn about their diving methods, history, and culture while you dine. Booking is usually required to eat a full meal with the divers.

Otherwise, visitors are welcome to drop by. amakoya.com Mikimoto Pearl Island in Toba City offers ama diving demonstrations hourly each day to commemorate the ama’s vital role in pearl cultivation. mikimoto-pearl-museum.co.jp The Toba Sea-Folk Museum features a full exhibit highlighting the unique ama trade as well as a short film on Japan’s ama divers. umihaku.com

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

13

FEATURE

Kagura

Deities, demons, and Japan’s myths and legends come to life in Osaka’s new kagura stage show.

TEXT: JASON HAIDAR

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Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

PHOTOS: KAKUREDANI-IKE POND, KOYA36 DMO; HERABUNA CARP, KOYA36 DMO

ENTERTAINMENT FIT FOR GODS

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

B

illows of smoke create an otherworldly atmosphere as four fire-breathing serpents known as orochi, each measuring an impressive 17 meters when fully uncoiled, slink and slither across the stage in time with the music. Taiko drums are pounded rhythmically in unison with the iconic sounds of the Japnese bamboo flute as the four orochi square off against Susano-o a Japanese deity and this tale’s larger-than-life hero.

Even for Susano-o—the Shinto god of sea and storms—defeating the red-eyed multi-headed serpent with a body that, according to legend, extends over eight hills and eight valleys, is a formidable task. In an expertly choreographed scene at Osaka’s newly opened theater, the Iwami Kagura Naniwakan, the hero uses guile and expert swordsmanship (with a little help from some very strong sake) to evade the crushing coils of the serpent. With powerful blows, he eventually decapitates each of the heads one-by-one much to the elation of the crowd.

This play, entitled Orochi, is one of the most popular stories belonging to Japan’s oldest traditional performing art, kagura, which translates as “god entertainment.” Of the Japanese performance

arts like noh, bunraku, rakugo, and kabuki, kagura might just be the most colorful and high-energy of them all, despite perhaps being the least known. Originating in local pockets of provinces on Japan’s island of Kyushu, the Iwami Kagura Naniwakan theater group has this year brought it to audiences in Osaka.

Origins and History Kagura is believed to have originated from the Amano-Iwato “cave of the sun goddess” myth, which is recorded in Japan’s oldest historical record Kojiki written around 1,300 years ago. In the tale, the sun goddess Amaterasu takes refuge in a cave plunging the world into darkness because of her brother Susano-o’s (the aforementioned hero) bad behavior towards her. It wasn’t until the goddess of dawn, mirth, and revelry Ame-no-Uzume got all the other gods laughing, through music and a comical dance, that Amaterasu was coaxed out of hiding so that her light would grace the world once again. Kagura is one of a number of rituals and arts said to derive from this mythical event.

Kagura aims to tell simple stories, such as heroes defeating demons, that draw from the myths and legends of Ja-

pan. It also celebrates beloved characters like the always-cheerful god of fishing and good fortune Ebisu, who, in the plays where he is featured, often throws “bait” in the form of candy into the audience as he prepares to catch a fish.

The origins of these myths and characters share similarities with the pagan gods of Greek mythology; they were a way for humans to explain the world around them. Demons were thought to cause droughts, floods, and prayers were offered to the gods to keep misfortune at bay. Likewise, the gods were believed to favor your harvest or bless you with a good haul of fish if they were appeased.

The older and more ritualistic form of kagura, known as mikagura, is still performed to this day at special places of importance, such as the Imperial Court, by shrine maidens who are said to be descended from the goddess Ame-noUzume. The more theatrical offshoot is known as sato kagura (village kagura) and is a staple in local communities in regions of Japan like Shimane and Hiroshima prefectures.

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A Community Staple Arguably, the most popular of these village styles is Iwami Kagura, which originated in a part of western Shimane formerly known as Iwami and is said to date back to the Muromachi period (1336–1573). In towns from the Iwami region like Tsuwano, Masuda, and Hamada, children typically begin formal training in kagura around 12 years of age. Their immersion into this theatrical world, however, begins before they can even walk as they attend weekly rehearsals with their fathers and older siblings as toddlers. Like sports in some communities, or certain arts and crafts in others, kagura is the glue that binds these communities together and it is in small-town rehearsal rooms where these theatrical traditions are passed down from one generation to the next.

“Iwami Kagura is firmly rooted in Shimane,” says Mio Zaima, a Tsuwano school councillor and national-licensed tour guide in the region. “Despite aging and depopulation in these communities, the younger generation still shows great interest. The spirit of kagura is in all of us here.”

Village kagura performers are amateur in that they have other day jobs— firefighters, accountants, students, school teachers, and civil servants all act in kagura performances. But to the outsider, their performances are every bit as polished-looking as any professional theater troupe’s. The high energy dance routines and stunning costumes with elaborately detailed masks are what bring the stories of these Shinto myths and legends to life.

Unlike noh masks that are carved from wood, most kagura masks are now made using the strongest paper in Japan, the UNESCO-listed sekishu washi, made locally in the region for over 1,300 years. “The lightweight yet strong properties of this paper make it the perfect material for the masks as kagura is intensely high-energy and lightweight masks make it easier for the performers to move around the stage,” explains self-taught master mask maker Katsuro Kakita. With his son Kenji Kakita from their Hamada atelier, he creates the vivid, striking, and sometimes haunting masks for many troupes in his local Shimane area as well as for Osaka’s new Iwami Kagura Naniwa theater.

It is from this same traditional paper that the fearsome orochi serpent is made just down the road from the Kakita mask studio in the Hamada workshop of Rinkichi Ueda, whose grandfather pioneered the design for the snake body over a century ago. The craftsman and his wife, who are both in their late 80s, make the serpent bodies by wrapping sekishu washi paper over carefully bent bamboo ribs. “This allows for the dynamic movement and flexibility that is needed in the orochi performance,” explains Ueda, whose serpents also feature in the new Osaka theater shows.

Osaka’s Iwami Kagura Naniwakan opened last month and holds kagura performances on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays at 2pm and 5pm. Admission is ¥3,000.

Masks and Costumes There is an old Japanese saying that aptly fits with how kagura props and accessories are made: “The gods dwell in the details.” Everything from the masks and the orochi body down to the finest details of the costumes, which can weigh up to 20kg, are painstakingly handcrafted. Colorful, elaborate designs accented with gold and silver thread can take more than a year to complete with a price tag upwards of 2 million yen.

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IWAMI KAGURA NANIWAKAN Address: 1-chome, Shocho, Naniwa-ku • Tel: 06-6561-0103 • info@naniwakan.jp • naniwakan.jp

EXPLORE

A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND

PHOTO: THE WEDDED ROCKS - MEOTO IWA, JASON HAIDAR

in Mie

Take in striking coastlines, tasty local cuisine, and some of Japan’s most spiritual sites in an adventure-filled three days.

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M

ie Prefecture, home of Japan’s largest population of ama divers and one of the nation’s most important Shinto shrines, is a perfect off-the-beaten-path destination for travelers seeking refuge from the crowded cities of Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto. Like anywhere outside of Japan’s major cities, renting a car is the best way to get around as it offers the most flexibility, but it is certainly possible to get between Mie’s main hubs of Ise, Toba, and Shima via the Kintetsu Railway, and in some parts, local JR lines. Scenic coastlines, scrumptious seafood, fascinating historical sites, and plenty more await you in Mie.

Day 1 Check out the old merchant quarter of Kawasaki Explore Edo-period architecture and sip tea or coffee in traditional merchant houses converted into cafes in Ise City’s old merchant quarter next to the Seta River. Nakamura Kitchen is known for selling some of the best coffee beans in town.

Pay your respects at Geku The outer shrine, known as Geku, is one of the two main shrines making up the famed Ise Jingu, or Ise Shrine.

It’s customary to visit the outer shrine before the inner shrine and its grounds are smaller than the inner shrine’s.

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PAY YOUR RESPECTS AT THE OUTER SHRINE - GEKU BEFORE VISITING THE INNER SHRINE - NAIKU.

Grab a bite on Geku-Sando street Order a tekonezushi and Ise udon set dish at one of the many restaurants along the street leading up to the outer shrine.

Tekonezushi is a rice bowl topped with layers of thinly sliced raw fish—a beloved local specialty of the Ise Shima area. Ise’s local udon dish is unique because of its broad noodles and dark sauce made of tamari soy sauce. Follow up with a craft beer at Ise Kadoya Beer, a local brewery’s retail store selling several different types of craft beer from the region.

Traverse the grounds of Naiku Take a bus from opposite Geku to Naiku, the inner shrine of Ise Jingu and the most hallowed ground of the Shinto religion. Filled with bridges, several

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A VENDOR GRILLING FISH AT A STALL IN OHARAI-MACHI

LEFT: LOCAL SPECIALITY TEKONEZUSHI ABOVE: CRAFT BEER FROM LOCAL BREWERY ISE KADOYA

shrine buildings, and giant, skyscraping trees, the grounds of Naiku are serene and picturesque. Like the outer shrine, inner shrine structures are rebuilt every 20 years and feature an architectural style that is almost free of influence from the Asian mainland.

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

Explore the popular area of Oharai-machi Oharai-machi is the bustling town in front of the Naiku section of Ise Shrine.

The picturesque 800 meters of stone pavement is brimming with restaurants, merchant stores, and souvenir shops distinct to Ise Shima. Located in the center of Oharai-machi is the alley of Okage-yokocho, a recreation of the Meiji-era buildings along the road to Ise Jingu. This is a great place to try skewers of the famous Matsusaka beef from the Matsusaka region of Mie Prefecture as well as the beloved Japanese sweet of akafuku mochi—a pounded rice cake confection topped with a sweet red bean paste made to a centuries-old recipe.

Soak in a Toba hot spring Drive or take the Kintetsu train from Iseshi Station to the town of Toba where there are more than 50 onsen hotels spread out along the coastline. Typically, they have spectacular ocean views, a choice of Japanese or Western rooms, plenty of seafood on the menu, and soothing hot spring pools to boot.

Day 2 See a sunrise at the wedded rocks Drive or arrange an early taxi from your hotel to the tiny town of Futaminoura for a magnificent sunrise at Mie’s most romantic site—the wedded rocks, or Meoto Iwa. The big and the small rocks rising out of the sea, representing a married couple connected by a shimenawa (sacred rope). The best time to see the rocks is at dawn when the tide is high and the sun appears to rise between them.

Watch ama divers and shop for pearls at Mikimoto Pearl Island Have breakfast at your hotel or grab a fish-shaped taiyaki pastry filled with butter and red-bean paste outside Toba Station before crossing over to Mikimoto Pearl Island. Visit the island’s museum to learn about the entrepreneurial journey of the Japanese “Pearl King” Kokichi Mikimoto. Watch the hourly ama diver demonstrations to learn about the vital role that Japan’s women divers played in the history of Mie pearl culturing.

Stop for a seafood lunch at Furusatokan Across the road from the Mikimoto Island entrance sits the local seafood restaurant Furusatokan where you can try all the region’s local shellfish including the famed Ise ebi spiny lobster. Have it grilled or fried in a set with Ise ebi miso soup.

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LEFT: WATCH AMA DIVERS AT MIKIMOTO PEARL ISLAND ABOVE: A SKEWER OF LOCAL MATSUZAKA BEEF

Drive or catch the Kintetsu train down to the Shima district for a lazy afternoon on the beach. The white sands and azure waters of Goza Beach make it a popular option, plus there are many campgrounds in the area for travelers keen to camp the night.

End the day with sunset views over Ago Bay

Lunch with the ladies at an ama diver hut

Watch the sun go down over the more than 60 islands of the Ago Bay archipelago from 200 meters above sea level at the Yokoyama Observatory before settling into your Shima accommodation. Travelers without a car can reach the observation deck by walking 30 to 45 minutes (one way) from Shima-Yokoyama Station.

The Shima and Toba regions of Mie Prefecture are home to the largest population of ama divers left in Japan (see our feature on p. 10). Reserve yourself a spot to have lunch in an ama hut with women divers who cook your seafood lunch on the fire while explaining the history and culture of the ama divers. Satoumian in Shima or Ama Hut Hachiman in Matoya Bay, Toba are two of several such huts in the region. Advance bookings are recommended.

Day 3 Cruise through Ago Bay Take the one-hour Kashikojima España sightseeing cruise through island-dotted Ago Bay on a large ship styled after the Spanish tall ship of the 16th-century Age of Exploration. It departs every half hour from Kashikojima Station from 9:30am onwards (with some exceptions—check the day before for availability).

SEAFOOD LUNCH AT FUROSATOKAN

Find it…

Spend an afternoon exploring the Toba Islands Ferry over to Toshijima or Sugajima for a half day of swimming, snorkeling, fishing, hiking, and other outdoor activities.

Eat a prime Wagyu steak End the day with a steakhouse dinner in Ise or Matsusaka and treat yourself to the tender, marbled beef the region is renowned for.

Nakamura Kitchen 2-27-21 Kawasaki; nakamura-coffee.jp • Geku (Outer Shrine) 279 Toyokawacho; isejingu.or.jp • Isekadoyabiru 13-6 Honmachi; biyagura.jp • Naiku 1 Ujitachicho; isejingu.or.jp • Okage-yokocho Ancient Street 52 Ujinakanokiricho; okageyokocho.co.jp • Wedded Rocks; “Meoto Iwa” 578 Futamichoe; japan.travel/en/spot/2249 • Mikimoto Pearl Island 1-7-1 Toba; mikimoto-pearl-museum.co.jp • Furusatokan; 1-6-19 Toba; Tel: 0599-26-6818 • Goza Beach 1050 Shimacho Goza Shima-shi • Yokoyama Observation Deck 875-20 Agocho Ugata, Shima; mirador.puebloamigo.jp • Kashikojima España Cruise (Ago Bay Cruise) 752-11 Agocho Shinmei, Shima; shima-marineleisure.com • Ama Hut Satoumi-an 2279 Shimacho Koshika, Shima; satoumian.com • Ama Hut Hachiman Kamado 819 Osatsucho, Toba; amakoya.com

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PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

Swim in the ocean at Shima

TRAVEL

Summiting Fuji: JAPAN’S GREAT CLIMB Take on Japan’s best-known landmark for an unforgettable experience and the chance to see the nation’s most magnificent sunrise.

TEXT: ASHLEY OWEN

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TRAIL RIDERS THE TRAIL BEGINS WITH A ZIG-ZAG SECTION UP THE SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN OVER BLACK VOLCANIC SOIL AND LOOSE RUBBLE.

PHOTOS: MT.FUJI SUNSRISE, ISTOCK.COM/MANABU7712; TRAIL, ASHLEY OWEN; VIEW OF MT.FUJI, ISTOCK.COM/TAKA4332

A

s the sun inches silently and inexorably above the horizon of ethereal cloud, rugged-up onlookers burst into spontaneous applause. Cameras click and video cameras roll non-stop attempting to capture the magic of the moment. This is goraiko – sunrise viewed from the top of a mountain – and there’s no better place to experience it than atop the iconic Mount Fuji.

The perfect cone-shaped figure of Japan’s tallest mountain has long captured the imagination of locals and tourists alike. Scaling its heights might seem like a daunting task, however the ease of access, well-signposted trails, and proliferation of mountain huts put this peak firmly within your reach.

Where to Begin Of the four trails winding up Mount Fuji, the Yoshida trail is by far the most popular and best supported. Plus the sunrise takes place on this side of the mountain, meaning you can enjoy it even if you don’t make it to the very top—all of which makes it the logical choice for first-time climbers.

The trail begins in the Fuji Five Lakes region, where the town of Kawaguchiko provides the perfect base for climbers.

A bus runs up to the fifth station, which sits approximately halfway up and is where most people begin their ascent.

It’s also a great place to stock up on last-minute supplies and souvenirs such as wooden pilgrim staffs. These can be branded with distinctive and artistic stamps at each mountain hut, so it’s not only practical but becomes a personalized memento of your trek.

The Climb Despite its height, Fuji is quite an accessible climb because there are no technical sections—it just takes stamina and perseverance! The trail begins with a zigzag section up the side of the mountain over black volcanic soil and loose rubble.

Watch your footing on the steeper parts, and take the time to enjoy the panoramic vista of green forest that stretches out over the foothills beneath you.

The trail is punctuated at regular intervals by mountain huts and rest stops, particularly around the 7th and 8th stations (the 10th station being the summit). As you get higher you’ll encounter more rocky sections, and the path becomes steeper and sometimes congested. There are different routes for ascent and descent, with the downward path consisting of a winding track of

ICONIC VIEWS ADMIRING FUJI’S SNOWPEAKED PEAK FROM NEARBY MOUNTAIN TRAILS IS ALSO RECOMMENDED.

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TIPS FOR AVOIDING ALTITUDE SICKNESS Mount Fuji stands an impressive 3,776m tall, and as you ascend you might notice the air becoming thinner. The lower levels of oxygen mean altitude sickness (symptoms of which include headaches and nausea) is a possibility, so follow these tips to minimize the risk:

CLIMBERS EAGERLY AWAITING THE SUNRISE AT THE TOP OF MT.FUJI

dusty, dark red rubble reminiscent of the surface of Mars. Take extra care here and don’t rush, as the combination of adrenaline, fatigue, and gravity can easily lead to a fall!

You arrive at the summit through a torii gate, and emerge in a wide open area with space to sit and rest as you watch the sun make its eagerly awaited appearance—although be aware you’ll be

sharing that space with plenty of other hikers! This, however, is a huge part of the joy of climbing Fuji: the camaraderie that naturally arises from sharing such a challenging and rewarding experience with others is unforgettable, and the memories you make here will last a lifetime.

• Take your time when climbing, and stop for regular breaks to help your body acclimatize to the higher altitude.

• Take regular water breaks to ensure you stay hydrated.

• Avoid alcohol the day before you climb.

• If you start feeling sick, go down a few hundred meters and wait to see if the symptoms fade before deciding whether to continue.

• If you’re really suffering, small bottles of oxygen can be purchased from the mountain huts along the trail—but the only real cure is to descend.

GETTING THERE The cheapest and most direct way to reach Kawaguchiko from Kansai is by overnight bus. These leave from Osaka and Kyoto and stop at Fuji-Q Highland, Fujisan, and Kawaguchiko stations. The journey takes nine to 11 hours depending on where you travel from/to, with a return trip costing about ¥15,000.

Climbing FAQs

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WHAT SHOULD I WEAR?

HOW CAN I SEE THE SUNRISE?

The weather can be unpredictable and varies greatly as you climb, so wearing appropriate clothing is key. Dress in layers that you can easily put on or remove as the temperature fluctuates, and bring waterproof gear with you even if there’s no rain forecasted. The pre-dawn temperature at the summit can be as low as 0ºC (32ºF), so come prepared.

One option is to begin climbing in the early afternoon, have dinner and a nap at a mountain hut (book in advance online), then leave for the summit between midnight and 1am. Alternatively, set off in the late evening and power through all the way to the top, which is cheaper but leaves less time to rest and acclimatize to the altitude.

Wearing the right shoes is important— choose hiking boots with ankle support, a little larger than your normal size to accommodate any swelling. For climbing at night, a headlamp is a must for safely

WHAT EQUIPMENT DO I NEED?

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navigating the rocky paths in the dark.

Trekking poles can be helpful but are not strictly necessary. Bring enough food and water for the entire climb (mountain hut prices are astronomical), plus ¥100 coins for the toilets.

WHAT IF I DON’T HAVE THE RIGHT GEAR?

No problem! Kawaguchiko has several hiking shops (such as Yamarent, Lamont, and Soranoshita) where you can rent everything you’ll need at a reasonable rate.

Many allow you to place your order online in advance, and then either have everything sent to your home/hotel or collect them in person when you arrive.

PHOTOS: ASHLEY OWEN

WHEN SHOULD I CLIMB?

The official climbing season runs from early July to the beginning of September.

The busiest times are weekends from midJuly to the end of August, plus the Obon holiday, so skip those dates to avoid the biggest crowds.

WHAT’S ON

WAKAYAMA’S BLAZING PURIFICATION FESTIVAL

Giant torches burn away the sins of the past year at a ritual performed in the Kumano mountains of Wakayama.

TEXT: KS

PHOTO: JJASON HAIDAR

T

he Nachi Fire Festival, one of the three largest fire festivals in Japan, is a giant purification ritual known locally as Nachi-no-Ogi, or the “Nachi Fan Festival.” Centered around the grand shrine of Kumano Nachi Taisha in the hilly Wakayama village of Nachi-Katsuura, it is one of the country’s most spiritual festivals which uses centuriesold cleansing rituals with fire symbolizing the burning away of sins and mistakes from the past year.

The festival also celebrates the return of the deity living in Nachi Shrine to the Great Waterfall of Nachi (Nachi no Taki), Japan’s highest waterfall at 133 meters.

In transferring the gods from the main shrine to the waterfall, 12 giant taimatsu pine torches weighing around 50kg are carried down the path to the waterfall for in a blazing ceremony. The six-meter-high torches represent the spirits of the 12 gods living in the Kumano mountains and are used to purify the path, “burning” away the sins of the past year.

It gets extremely crowded at the climax of the event when the flaming torches arrive at the base of the waterfall. The ceremony is scheduled to start at 2pm but it is better to arrive earlier and wait along the path in front of the waterfall.

Jul 14 WAKAYAMA

Nachi Ogi Matsuri - Nachi Fire Festival 例大祭 那智の扇祭り

Kumano Nachi-Taisha, Wakayama

GETTING THERE From the JR Tennoji Station in Osaka, take the LTD. EXP KUROSHIO 1 to Kiikatsuura Station.

From there, take the Kumano bus bound for Nachisan and get off at Nachi no Taki-mae.

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TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS IN KANSAI

祭

Osaka-jime (大阪締め)

Osaka-jime is a peculiar mixture of song and hand clapping performed as part of any celebration in Osaka.

During the Tenjin Festival, when two boats meet, the people aboard greet each other with the following chant: “uchimasho”, (clap-clap), “mo-hitotsu-sei”, (clap-clap), “iiotesando”, (clap-clap-and-clap), rounded off with a good “omedetogozaimasu”, or “congratulations”.

However, when the holy boat with the portable shrine approaches, it is considered too profane to greet the deity with Osaka-jime, so all passengers stand quiet in solemn prayer.

Noh & Matsuri Aria Aoyama from the Japan Institute for Culture & International Exchange sat down with Yoshie Yamamoto from the acclaimed Yamamoto Noh Theater in Osaka to discuss Noh and its role within Osaka’s iconic summer festival - Tenjin Matsuri.

TEXT: KS PRESENTED BY THE JAPAN INSTITUTE FOR CULTURE & INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE

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See a Noh Play TOKUI NOH “TSUCHIGUMO (THE GRAND SPIDER)” WITH SUBTITLES IN ENGLISH 23 Jul (Thu) 7–9pm After the show, you can take part in a fun lottery with the chance to win a ticket to board the Noh-bune boat!

PHOTOS: © YAMAMOTO NOH THEATER

THE NOH-BUNE BOAT IS ANCHORED IN THE RIVER

Yamamoto: Aria-san, summer will be here soon. Do you know about Tenjin Matsuri (Tenjin Festival) – Osaka’s amazing summer festival?

Aoyama: Of course! Along with the Gion Festival in Kyoto and the Kanda Festival in Tokyo, it is one of the three major festivals of Japan. I’ve seen it several times. Countless boats crisscrossing the Okawa river, amazing fireworks, and people in festival mode everywhere.

Apparently roughly 1.3 million people participate each year!

Y: That’s right. It’s a festival that venerates the spirit of Michizane Sugawara, enshrined in the Osaka Tenmangu Shrine. With a history dating back more than 1000 years, it has also become synonymous with Noh performance.

The eve of the festival is July 24, and the festival itself on July 25. The main events are the “Rikutogyo” (walking procession), and the “Funatogyo”, (boat procession).

At precisely 3:30pm on July 25, the spirit of Michizane Sugawara is transferred to a portable shrine-palanquin and is paraded around so that he can witness the wellbeing of Tenma – the area he watches over. The spectators are happy to be in the presence of Michizane’s spirit, and more than 3,000 people dressed in colorful traditional garb and holding sacred objects form a procession along a 4km stretch of road in order to accompany the deity. It looks like a scene from one of the beautiful picture scrolls of ancient times.

A: It’s quite spectacular. And in the procession, I remember a group of liq-

Venue: Yamamoto Noh Theater (1-3-6 Tokuicho, Chuo-ku, Osaka) • Reservations: ticket@noh-theater.com • Tel: 06-6943-9454 • Admission: ¥4,000 • noh-theater.com

uor manufacturers displaying a special doll called “Shojo” on their festival cart.

Y: Yes. Shojo is the god of sake that appears in classical Noh drama. The Noh dance of Shojo has been performed during celebratory ceremonies in Japan since ancient times. It has actually become one of the symbols not only of the Tenjin Festival, but also of the Gion Festival and many others.

A: If I recall correctly he has red hair and wears a red mask and costume. Everything is red. Just watching him gives you a sense of happiness.

Y: Right. At 6pm, the portable shrine with the spirit of Michizane Sugawara is loaded onto a ship. This marks the beginning of the “Funatogyo”, which is also the climax of the festival, with more than 100 ships participating in the procession. People celebrate the deity’s release by launching 1000s of fireworks to express their joy.

A: And isn’t there also the “Nohbune”, or a “Noh boat”, amongst them?

Y: Yes, it is anchored at the center of the river, and has a torchlit Noh stage on top. The Noh performances on the boat are an offering to the spirit of Michizane Sugawara. In the old days it used to move freely along the river with the Shojo doll decorating its front.

It sailed all along the Okawa river with a choir singing the libretto of the play “Shojo” on board. Sometimes the fireworks are so loud you can barely hear the performance.

A: Just imagining it gives me goosebumps. It is an epitome of traditional Japanese beauty that you can only experience in Osaka once a year.

SPECIAL NOH PERFORMANCE “TENJINMATSURI”ON THE NOHBUNE BOAT 24th July (Wed) 6:30–8:15pm Torchlit Noh performance on top of the Noh-bune, which will be anchored on the river in front of the Imperial Hotel Osaka.

Venue: Imperial Hotel Osaka (1-8-50 Tenmabashi, Kita-ku, Osaka) • Reservations: ticket@noh-theater.com • Tel: 06-6881-4100 • Admission: From ¥6,500 • imperialhotel. co.jp/e/osaka/special/tenjin2019

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What’s On  Cultural KYOTO

GION FESTIVAL 祇園祭

Yasaka Shrine & Surroundings • Jul 1–31 One of the top three festivals in Japan; various ancient ceremonies are held at venues around central Kyoto during this month. On the evening of the 15th and 16th, street stands appear in the Shijo Karasuma neighborhood. Throughout the period, the yamaboko floats that parade around Kyoto’s streets on the 17th and 24th are available for view.

ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hankyu Line, Kawaramachi Stn & Karasuma Stn • yasaka-jinja.or.jp/en/gion.html

What’s On Guide 28

Kyoto FIREFLIES AND TEA CEREMONY 蛍火の茶会

Jun 8 • Shimogamo Shrine At this large, annual tea ceremony held in the evening, there will be a Japanese court dance and a ceremonial kimono dressing. A junihitoe (twelve-layered kimono worn by ladies of Imperial court) demonstration will happen at 6pm. The 600 fireflies will be released at 8pm creating a calm, ambient glow in the Tadasu no Mori grove.

Stalls of quality Kyoto goods and food will be open from 1pm.

TIME: 5pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keihan line, Demachiyanagi Stn, 10-min walk • shimogamo-jinja.or.jp

BAMBOO CUTTING RITUAL 竹伐り会式

Kurama Temple • Jun 20 The origins of this festival lie in a legend from the 9th century about a monk named Buen who was

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On the final day of the Obon festival, giant bonfires burn on the five mountains surrounding Kyoto City. These five bonfires including three Chinese characters (kanji), one ship motif, and a symbol of a torii gate, can be seen from many places in the heart of the city. Starting at 8pm, each bonfire is lit starting from the east and moving anticlockwise to the west.

TIME: 7pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hankyu Railway Arashiyama Stn, 5-min walk • buttorenmei.sakura.ne.jp

IWAMI KAGURA DANCE

TIME: 8pm–8:30pm • ADMISSION:

石見神楽の奉納

Free (depends on venue) • kyokanko.or.jp/okuribi

Omi-jingu, Shiga • Jun 2 Traditional Japanese mounted archery known as yabusame will be performed to honor the ancient emperor Tenji at Omi Shrine. Both rider and horse will be decked out in full samurai regalia as they charge full speed, shooting arrows at three consecutive targets that sound with a thunderous crack when hit. This is a fantastic opportunity to watch the skilled mounted archers from the Takeda School of Horseback Archery reenact this traditional martial art that has its origins at the beginning of the Kamakura period.

attacked by two large serpents and ended up killing one of them. In this millennium-old ritual, mountain priests compete to cut broad bamboo poles measuring four meters in length and 10 centimeters in diameter, which represent the evil serpents.

TIME: 2pm–3pm • ADMISSION: ¥300

• ACCESS: Eizan line, Kurama Stn • kuramadera.or.jp

Yasaka Shrine • Jul 16 One of the classical Japanese performing arts, Iwami Kagura features brightly colored costumes, lively music, and dynamic dancing depicting some of Japan’s ancient myths and legends. Be mesmerized by an eight-headed monster serpent, or orochi, moving vigorously across the stage.

TIME: 6:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Gion-shijo Stn, 7-min walk • yasaka-jinja. or.jp

OKURIBI BONFIRE 五山の送り火

Various Parts of Kyoto • Aug 16

FLOATING LANTERN CEREMONY 嵐山灯篭流し

Togetsu-Kyo Bridge, Kyoto • Aug 16 On the final day of the Obon holidays, it is said that the ancestors’ spirits are sent back to the heavens. As a gesture of farewell, 6,000 to 7,000 floating lanterns are released on the Katsura River. The event coincides with the Okuribi Bonfire or Daimonji, which is also dedicated to sending back the spirits, and some of the lit up mountains can be seen from the park.

Shiga YABUSAME SHINJI – JAPANESE HORSEBACK ARCHERY 流鏑馬神事

TIME: 12:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keihan line, Omijingu-mae Stn, 9-min walk • oumijingu.org

See Kansaifinder.com for more

What’s On  Cultural SHIGA

OTAUE SAI – RICE PLANTING CEREMONY お田植祭

Taga Shrine • Jun 4 An important religious ceremony celebrating farming, 70 saotome (young maidens) in colorful costumes walk into a field to plant rice seedlings adjacent to the shrine.

Accompanied by drums, traditional farming songs and dances will be enjoyed next to the field.

BIWAKO VISITORS BUREAU

TIME: 1pm • ADMISSION: ¥500 • ACCESS: Omi line, Tagataishamae Stn, 10-min walk • tagataisya.or.jp

MANTO FESTIVAL – HOLY LIGHTS SERVICE 万灯祭

TIME: 7pm–9:30pm • ACCESS: Omi Tetsudo line, Tagataisha-mae Stn, 10-min walk • tagataisya.or.jp/event/ mantou

LAKE BIWA GREAT FIREWORKS DISPLAY びわ湖大花火大会

Otsu Port, Shiga • Aug 8 One of the best pyrotechnics shows in Japan, the Lake Biwa Great Fireworks

TIME: 7:30pm–8:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Otsu Stn / Keihan Hamaotsu Stn • biwako-visitors. jp/hanabi

Osaka EVENING OF THE STAR FESTIVAL TANABATA IN SHITENNOJI 七夕のゆうべin四天王寺 2019

Shitennoji Temple & Surroundings, Osaka • Jul 6–8 Shitennoji temple hosts one of many national

tanabata events celebrating the meeting of the deities Orihime and Hikoboshi (represented by the stars Vega and Altair). As the legend goes, the Milky Way separates these lovers, and they are allowed to meet only once a year on the seventh day of the seventh lunar month of the lunisolar calendar. To celebrate this traditional Japanese star festival, a 27-meter bamboo-grass tunnel decorated with tanzaku (colorful strips of paper that people write their wishes on) and an artificial LED Milky Way will be constructed at Shitennoji Temple. The venue will be lined with street stalls, and there will be various events including a concert, an astronomical viewing session, and workshops about the stars. On July 8th, a fire ritual will be held at the temple to burn the tanzaku. See website for details and times.

TIME: 7pm–Midnight (Until 8pm on Jul 8) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Subway Stn, 5-min walk • tanabatanoyuube. net

KYOTO

MONJU-DO DEFUNE DRAGON FESTIVAL 文殊堂出船祭

KYOTO BY THE SEA DESTINATION MANAGEMENT/MARKETING ORGANIZATION

Taga Shrine, Shiga • Aug 3–5 The Manto Sai is held to give thanks to the god who guards the spirits of our ancestors in the underworld. Gentle light from thousands of paper lanterns illuminates the Taga Taisha building and grounds. The festival starts by producing fire at a place called Sugisakayama, which is believed to be the place that the god appeared. At 7pm, 12,000 paper lanterns will then be simultaneously lit with the holy fire.

Yukata-clad visitors stroll around the shrine grounds, which are full of festive atmosphere as Japanese folk dance and classical performing arts entertain the crowds.

Display is expected to attract 350,000 spectators.

10,000 spectacular light flowers bloom in the night sky, reflecting on the glassy surface of the lake. Join the hoards of onlookers as fireworks fly in arcs across the sky, while others fan out on the water’s surface.

Arriving a few hours early is recommended to secure the best viewing points. Ojiyama Sports Park, which is five minutes walk from Hamaotsu Station, is a good spot to go to. Nagisa Park and the lakefront, 15 minutes walk from Otsu Station, are some other highly recommended viewpoints.

Chionji Monjudo Temple & Surroundings, Kyoto • Jul 24 The scenic coastal town of Amanohashidate comes alive annually on the 24th of July with this spectacular religious event.

According to legend, there was once a terrible dragon who caused trouble for the village people. One day, Monju, the god of wisdom, came and fought the dragon. He preached wisdom to him and made the dragon a guardian spirit of the village. Every year to mark that story, gold and silver dragon shows are staged on a floating platform in the sea. Join the dancing crowd as the dragons roar down the street. The bustling celebration finishes with a colorful fireworks display.

TIME: 8pm–9:20pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kitakinki Tango Line, Amanohashidate Stn • monjudo-chionji.jp

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What’s On  Cultural OSAKA

TENJIN MATSURI 天神祭

Osaka Temmangu Shrine & Surroundings, Osaka • Jul 24 & 25 The Tenjin Matsuri is one of the largest and most colorful festivals in Japan, drawing a million festival-goers every year. The premiere Osaka summer festival starts on July 24th with solemn rituals taking place at Temmangu shrine. On the 25th, things pick up with lively music setting the tone as portable shrines are paraded through the streets in a grand procession around the neighborhood near Temmangu shrine.

The highlight comes as over 100 boats sail up and down the Okawa River and in the evening when 6,000 fireworks light up the night sky.

TIME: all-day event • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Osakatemmangu Stn; Keihan Tenmabashi Stn; Osaka Subway Minamimorimachi Stn • tenjinmatsuri.com

WAKAYAMA

KOCHI FESTIVAL 河内祭

River Koza & surroundings, Wakayama • Jul 27 & 28 A boat parade will take place in the picturesque town of Kozagawa-cho in Kushimoto. This centuries-old ceremony was originally held to celebrate the return of the victorious Koza navy fleet in the 13th century.

Listen to a local boatman singing festive songs from wooden vessels illuminated with paper lanterns on the 27th. The next day, these ancient style battleships will proceed along the Koza River. Enjoy the shishimai lion dance particular to this region and the fiercely competitive kaidenma boat races, among other cultural ceremonies.

TIME: 6pm Jul 27; 10am Jul 28 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Koza Stn, 20-min walk • kushimoto. jp/kozajisi/sub03.html

TANABATA – STAR FESTIVAL 機物神社七夕祭り

Hatamono Shrine • Jul 6 &7 The city of Katano is home to many Tanabata (Star Festival) stone monuments inscribed with poetry.

Hatamono-jinja, located in Katano, is dedicated to the Tanabata deity Vega and is decorated with bamboo branches on both days of the star festival. The shrine is surrounded by numerous street stalls and welcomes many visitors during this event. On the 7th, the portable-shrine procession is held at 4pm and the tanzaku colorful paper wish strips are released at the river around 11:30pm.

TIME: Starts early evening • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Tsuda Stn, 15-min walk • murata35. chicappa.jp/meisho/hatamono

OSAKA LEGEND OF THE MILKY WAY 令和OSAKA天の川伝説

Okawa River (between Kitahama and Temmabashi), Osaka • Jul 7 Celebrating the first Tanabata of the Reiwa era, 70 thousand LED “prayer stars” will be floated

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down the Okawa River in Nakanoshima Park located in the heart of Osaka.

Now in its 10th year, this summertime spectacle creates a luminescent sea of electric blue representing the Milky Way, so be sure to have your camera ready!

Those wishing to participate by releasing their own prayer star can buy a ticket in advance or at the door for ¥1,000. There will also be special boat cruises and plenty of food stalls to add to the festive spirit.

TIME: 7:20pm–9pm (postponed to Aug 7 in case of stormy weather) • ADMISSION: Free to observe • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Line & Keihan Line, Kitahama Stn & Temmabashi Stn • osaka-amanogawa.com

TORCHLIGHT COURT DANCE 篝の舞楽

Shitennoji Temple • Aug 4 Since the 6th century, Shitennoji has housed this bugaku (court dance) event three times a year featuring local dancers.

Be transported to another world during this ancient dance under torchlight that dates back to the Asuka Period (538 AD–710 AD).

Doors open at 6:30pm.

TIME: 7pm–8pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: Subway Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Stn, 5-min walk • shitennoji.or.jp/event/8

AWA ODORI DANCE IN TENJIN & TEMMA 天神天満阿波おどり2019

Osaka Tenmangu Shrine & Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street • Aug 20 One of the most famous festive dance events in Japan, Awa Odori will be held in the heart of Osaka.

The distinctive half-moonshaped hats, colorful fans, and bright costumes of Awa Odori, combined with the rhythm of the energetic dance make for both a fun and traditional Japanese experience.

TIME: 2:30pm–6:50pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Temma Stn • tenjintenma-awaodori.com

Nara FUCHIN TAISAI FESTIVAL 風鎮大祭

Tatsuta Shrine • Jul 7 An array of religious rituals and ceremonies will be held in honor of the gods of Tatsuta-taisha. To appease

What’s On  Cultural

See Kansaifinder.com for more

HYOGO

ATAGO FIRE FESTIVAL 愛宕の火祭り

Ifukube Shrine, Hyogo • Aug 25 During this unique ritual, the sound of taiko drums fills the air and then rings of fire flare one after another. Originally, this religious event began in order to pray for the preservation of the Edo period. It is now one of the special features of the region attracting crowds of people every year. The holy fire is built around 6:30 in the evening and then an acrobatic ritual is performed where a flaming bundle of straw is swung through the air creating multiple circles of fire in the dark.

TIME: 10am–8pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Toyooka Stn, bus to Izushi • izushi.co.jp/event_summer

the wind gods, locals perform dances and taiko drumming. The shrine’s most important event of the year takes place from 9pm until 10pm featuring performers chanting prayers in a shower of sparks from Roman candles.

TIME: 2pm–10pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Sango Stn, 7-min walk • tatsutataisha.jp/index.php

Wakayama NACHI OGI MATSURI - NACHI FIRE FESTIVAL 例大祭 那智の扇祭り

Kumano Nachi-Taisha, Wakayama • Jul 14 One of the greatest religious fire-themed events in Japan, the Nachi Fire Festival takes place in the picturesque area surrounding the shrine Nachi-taisha in Wakayama.

Celebrating the anniversary of the change of residence held in the 4th century, the deities of Nachi-taisha make a pilgrimage to the place of the original shrine at Nachi Falls. Following elaborate ceremonies, 12 red totems representing gods will be carried to the waterfall. A team of pilgrims carrying large torches will join the totems on the mountainside. Watch the

pilgrims go up the steep stone steps, boldly swinging torches casting an alluring glow across the grounds.

NARA

TIME: 10am-3:30pm • ADMISSION: Free

中元万燈籠

• ACCESS: JR Kii-Katsuura Stn, bus to Nachisan • kumanonachitaisha.or.jp

WAKAYAMA PORT FIREWORKS DISPLAY 港まつり花火大会

Wakayama-Ko Port, Wakayama • Jul 28 This is a special attraction during summer in Wakayama where 3,000 spectacular fireworks draw 30,000 spectators annually. A curtain of light spreads across the sky at the climax of the event. In the case of rain, the event will be postponed to July 31.

CHUGEN MANTORO – LANTERN SERVICE Kasuga Shrine • Aug 14 & 15 This lantern service ritual has a more than 800-year history. The event involves the lighting of Kasuga Taisha’s 3,000 stone and bronze lanterns, which only happens twice a year. The shrine’s architecture dates back to the year 768 AD and is surrounded by an ancient forest. The gentle glow of the lanterns makes the site feel ancient and mysterious.

TIME: 7pm–9:30pm • ADMISSION: Free (special exhibition ¥500) • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu line, Nara Stn, bus to Kasugataisha Omotesando • kasugataisha. or.jp

TIME: 8pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai Line, Wakayama-ko Stn, 10-min walk • w-hanabi.com

Looking for more Events?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

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Sights & Attractions OSAKA

Kansai Cycle Sports Center Bicycle-themed amusement park located in the hills south of Osaka. With pedal-powered roller coasters, a cycle luge, swings, and a host of crazy bikes to try out, this is a fun day out for all the family. The park features a velodrome, a swimming pool open during the summer months, and on-site camping facilities should you wish to extend your stay.

The all-you-can-ride Free Pass is ¥2,000 for both adults and kids over 3 years old. There is also a restaurant on-site, but you are welcome to take your own picnic.

1304 Amanocho, Kawachinagano-shi, Osaka • kcsc.or.jp

Osaka Museums

CUP NOODLES MUSEUM This offbeat museum in Ikeda, north of Osaka, pays tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of the instant noodle. Fun, handson activities and, for only ¥300, you can design your own bespoke cup noodles (takes about 45 mins).

8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda-shi, Osaka • cupnoodles-museum.jp

OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUM Hands-on exhibits introduce themes on space and energy to all ages but the planetarium is the main draw here.

4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6444-5656

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART, OSAKA Housed beneath the Science Museum and instantly recognisable with its futuristic ground floor entrance, designed

by Argentinian architect César Pelli, the NMAO features works from Cezanne and Picasso to contemporary artists.

4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku • TEL: 066447-4680

MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND LIVING

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This museum depicts everyday Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life-sized interactive recreation of an Edo-era neighborhood you can explore!

Kita Ward, Tenjinbashi, 6-4-20 • TEL: 06-6242-1170

SUMIYOSHI SHRINE Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Founded in the 3rd century before Buddhism came to the country, it has a distinctive style of shrine architecture— called Sumiyoshi-zukuri—that is free of influence from mainland Asia.

2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi-ku

THE MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS, OSAKA Regarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum for ceramic enthusiasts. Located in leafy Nakanoshima, next to the iconic Central Public Hall.

1 Chome-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6223-0055

Monuments and Landmarks

OSAKA CASTLE If you visiting Osaka for the first time, then you are duty bound to visit this iconic castle in the beautiful grounds of the extensive Osaka Castle Park.

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The small museum inside offers a great insight into its history.

LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER OSAKA

UMEDA SKY BUILDING

Kita-ku, Oyodonaka 1-1-88

A great place for the kids to let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, small rides and 4D cinema that form this indoor LEGO playground. Inside the Tempozan Marketplace shopping center next to the Osaka Aquarium.

ABENO HARUKAS

1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 0800100-5346

One of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, the Floating Garden Observatory connecting its two towers offers 360-degree panoramic views.

Japan’s tallest skyscraper at 300m in height, is home to an observatory, art museum and hotel as well as hundreds of shops.

TSUTENKAKU TOWER One of Osaka’s most iconic landmarks, presiding over the Shinsekai area in Tennoji. There are observation decks on the 4th and 5th floors, although at just 103m high, is dwarfed by the nearby Abeno Harukas.

1-18-6 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward

Attractions

OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKAN One of the largest public aquariums in the world, with an amazing collection of marine life, including the popular whale shark tank and the mesmerising jellyfish. Allow several hours.

1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 066576-5501 • kaiyukan.com

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN Giant movie-themed amusement park with thrills and spills for all ages, featuring characters from the Universal stable, including Harry Potter, Spiderman, and the Minions.

2 Chome-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward • usj.co.jp

SPA WORLD A giant hot spring theme park with a huge choice of fanciful baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its upper floors. Open 24 hrs.

3-4-24 Ebisu-higashi Naniwa-ku • TEL: 06-6631-0001

SILVER BALL PLANET Japan’s mecca for pinball machines, housing over 100 machines dating from the 1970s to the present day.

Big Step 3F, Nishi-shinsaibashi 1-6-14 • silverballplanet.jp

Sights & Attractions

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Nara Museums

NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM Ranging over four buildings with wheelchair access, this museum holds treasures from the Nara period (710 to 784 AD), plus Buddhist and decorative art from around Japan with explanations in English.

50 Noborioji-cho, Nara • narahaku.go.jp

NARA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF ART Nara’s main art museum has an extensive collection of Japanese art, with a focus on the Edo and Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate every two to three months and explanations of most pieces are in English. There is a good museum shop and regular free workshops and activities for families. Free for seniors and for foreigners with ID.

Monuments and Landmarks

NARA PARK A huge ancient park and the focal point for any visit to Nara. Droves of wild deer will follow you around as you explore the park’s stunning temples, gardens and museums, hoping you may feed them special deer crackers.

TODAIJI Todaiji Temple with its 15m high Buddha is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and draws a steady stream of visitors. todaiji.or.jp

KASUGA-TAISHA SHRINE An ancient shinto shrine, famous for its stunning vermillion colored columns, is approached along an atmospheric forest path, lined with hundreds of stone lanterns. kasugataisha.or.jp

10-6 Noborioji-cho, Nara

WAKAYAMA

Shirahama Adventure World A large-scale zoo, aquarium, and amusement park all rolled into one. A little bit dated, but with special zones for the little ones, plenty of animal feeding and petting opportunities, and some thrills and spills for older kids and adults alike, you can easily spend a whole day here. Due to its popularity with families the place can get very crowded during school and public holidays. Consider combining it with a trip to Shirahama beach.

2399 Katada, Shirahama-cho, Nishimuro-gun, Wakayama • aws-s.com/en

Kyoto

KYOTO AQUARIUM

Museums

KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART A great collection of both Japanese and Western modern art, with some excellent temporary exhibitions. Across the road from the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art. Sakyo Ward, Okazaki Enshojicho, 26−1 • TEL: 075-761-4111

KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM One of Japan’s oldest museums housing a permanent collection of Japanese artefacts, treasures and artworks.

527 Chayacho, Higashiyama-ku • TEL: 075-525-2473

KYOTO RAILWAY MUSEUM This 30,000 square meter space features 53 engines ranging from the Japan’s oldest steam locomotive to more recent shinkansen models. Kids will go crazy for the train simulators and interactive dioramas. A must for train buffs of all ages.

Kankijicho, Shimogyo-ku • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp

NIJO CASTLE The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo castle encompasses several gardens and the beautifully preserved Ninomaru Palace, whose lavishly decorated rooms feature ornate woodwork and stunning wall paintings.

541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward

FOREVER MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Located inside the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theater in Kyoto, this newly opened gallery presents contemporary art in a traditional Japanese setting and comprises nearly 60% Yayoi Kusama works.

570-2 Gion-machi (south side), Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto • fmoca.jp/en

Attractions

TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARK Lots of fun to be had at this old Edo-themed movie park. With a brilliant ninja show, fun staged samurai fights and the chance to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets, it’s a great afternoon out.

A modern aquarium in Umekoji Park, with aquatic creatures presented across twelve different themed areas. Great for a rainy-day activity or for families with young children.

Also convenient for the Railway Museum.

35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • kyoto-aquarium.com

Hyogo Museums

KOBE FASHION MUSEUM Japan’s first museum dedicated to the world of fashion, situated on Rokko Island, housing a large public library on its 3rd floor.

2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-858-0050

KOBE ANPANMAN CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALL Fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland area, dedicated to the surreal world of popular Japanese children’s character Anpanman. Great for young kids.

1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo-ku • Tel: 078-341-8855

Monuments and Landmarks

HIMEJI CASTLE Perched upon a hill where its towers can be seen for miles, this picturesque fortress is nicknamed Shirasagi-jo (“White Heron Castle”) because of its brilliant, white exterior and unique tower structuring.

Himeji-shi, 68 Honmachi

Shiga Museums

MIHO MUSEUM A stunning museum, designed by renowned architect I. M. Pei and located far from the crowds in the hills around Shigaraki, requires a bit of a trek to reach, but is absolutely worth it. Named after Koyama Mihoko, one of the richest women in Japan and the founder of the museum.

Shigaraki, Tashiro Momodani 300 • miho.jp

10 Uzumasa Higashihachiokacho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto • toei-eigamura.com

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OSAKA

Abstraction: Aspects of Contemporary Art The National Museum of Art, Osaka • Until Aug 4

Abstract art has experienced many iterations throughout history. This exhibition focuses on American and European pieces created from the 1980s, the decade that brought about Neo-Expressionism and a resurgence in other types of abstract art. Since the 1980s, “abstract” has not only included contemporary works but also a diverse range of concepts and techniques popular in the past. As such, this exhibition features a plethora of modern abstract works, including both paintings and sculptures, as well as pieces by historically important artists whose careers predate the ’80s. Sculptor Franz West, American painter Ellsworth Kelly, Brooklynbased artist Richard Aldrich, and more are featured in this colorful and unique retrospective.

OSAKA

KYOTO

HYOGO

ART OSAKA 2019

2019 TURKISH CULTURE YEAR: THE TREASURES AND THE TRADITION OF “LÂLE” IN THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE

LEGENDARY FASHION DESIGNER GNYUKI TORIMARU

Hotel Granvia Osaka • Jul 6&7 The 2019 edition of Art Osaka will take place this year on July 6 and 7 (with a private preview event held on the 5).

Art Osaka is a celebration of contemporary art both local and abroad—this year, art galleries from Kansai and other regions of Japan as well as Taiwan and Korea will showcase works. Now in its 17th year, Art Osaka is one of the largest art fairs in Japan. The event will be held on the 26th floor of Hotel Granvia Osaka in Umeda which will transform 69 hotel rooms into exhibition booths for participating artists. A wide range of works and talents are featured annually—painting, photography, sculpture, and more are presented side-by-side by artists both up-and-coming and worldrenowned.

ART OSAKA • OPEN: Sat 11am–8pm and Sun 11am–7pm • ADMISSION: ¥1800 • ACCESS: Short walk from JR Osaka and Umeda Stns • TEL: 06-7506-9347 • artosaka.jp/en

Abstraction • OPEN: 10am–5pm, Fri and Sat until 8pm, from July to Aug., Fri and Sat until 9pm (admission until 30 minutes before closing) (closed Mondays (except July 15) and July 16) • ADMISSION: ¥900 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Watanabebashi Station • TEL: 06-6447-4680 • nmao.go.jp/en/exhibition/2019/ chusyo.html

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MOMAK • Jun 14–Jul 28 Celebrating a period of sustained prosperity enjoyed by the Ottoman Empire for hundreds of years until its fall, this exhibition remembers the great empire primarily through works of art depicting the “lâle” or tulip, Turkey’s most beloved flower. Over 170 items showcase the heritage of the Ottoman Empire and its relationship to Japan.

The sultan’s former library, prayer room, and tulip-filled garden are all reproduced nearly identically. Incredibly ornate artifacts like the jeweled dagger of Sultan Mehmed IV and lavishly embroidered ceremonial attire are on display as well as paintings, calligraphy, textiles, and other art. A glimpse into the history of Japan-Turkey relations is also provided.

Turkish Culture Year • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm; Fri & Sat 9:30am–8pm (closed Mondays) • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Stn • TEL: 075-7614111 • momak.go.jp/English/ exhibitionArchive/2019/432.html

Kobe Fashion Museum • Until Jun 23 Gnyuki Torimaru (known professionally as “Yuki”) is a Japanese-born, Londonbased fashion designer known for costumes worn by celebrities and royalty.

Princess Diana, Queen Silvia of Sweden, and popular talents in Japan have all sported his striking garments throughout his long career. Yuki is known for pleated and draped dresses inspired by monastic robes, earning him nicknames like “Magician of Drapery” and “Silk Sculptor.” In this exhibition, styles which gained him international recognition are displayed in their splendor.

About 80 pieces including costumes, sketches, and images will be on display, including a stunning blue evening gown Princess Diana wore to a dinner with Emperor Hirohito in 1986.

Gnyuki Torimaru • OPEN: 10am–6pm (closed Mondays) • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: Short walk from Island Center Stn • TEL: 078-585-0055 • fashionmuseum.or.jp/museum/ special/gnyuki_torimaru

SHIGA

Tales of Masterpiece Japanese Swords: The History of Aesthetic Appreciation Sagawa Art Museum • Jul 10–Sep 23 The eye-catching physical attributes of Japanese swords have won the elegantly crafted weapons high acclaim both in Japan and around the world. As an artistic object representing the nation, Japanese swords have also greatly influenced the local spiritual culture and can be seen as simultaneously sacred and evil—for samurai warriors, they were both a powerful weapon and spiritual pillar. This exhibition features priceless items from the Sano Art Museum, which boasts one of the largest sword collections in all of Japan. Long swords, katana, spears, and more from the Heian period to the Edo era will be on display, many of which have been designated as national treasures and important cultural properties.

Famous Japanese Swords • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (entry to exhibition until 4:30pm), closed Mondays (and Jul 16, Sep 17) • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: 30-min bus ride from JR Moriyama Stn / 15-min bus ride from JR Katata Stn • TEL: 077-585-7800 • sagawa-artmuseum.or.jp/plan/2019/03/post-94.html

静岡県指定文化財 《大笹穂槍 銘 藤原正真作 （号 蜻蛉切）》 （裏 部分） 本多家伝来 室町時代末期（16世紀） 個人蔵（佐野美術館寄託）

ELLSWORTH KELLY, BLACK DIAGONAL RELIEF, 2010, ESTATE OF ELLSWORTH KELLY, © ELLSWORTH KELLY FOUNDATION, COURTESY MATTHEW MARKS GALLERY

What’s On  Art & Exhibitions

What’s On  Art & Exhibitions

「Carrefour Sèvres-Babylone, Paris」 ウイリー・ロニス「セーヴル・バビロン交差点、パリ」1948年 何必館・京都現代美術館蔵

See Kansaifinder.com for more

OSAKA

The Wonderful World of Cats in Ukiyo-e:

MIRROR IMAGE SERIES: GIRL PLAYING WITH A CAT BY UTAGAWA KUNIYOSHI, HELD IN A PRIVATE COLLECTION

KYOTO

Ronis’ beloved Parisian life —Willy Ronis Kyoto Museum of Contemporary Art • Until Jun 23

Beloved French photographer Willy Ronis (1910–2009) is best known for his images depicting everyday life in post-war Paris.

The son of Jewish immigrants, Ronis aspired to be a musician until his father’s death forced him to take over the family portrait studio. Thus began his love affair with photography leading him to become Paris’ most famous street photographer. His photographs ranged from reportage to fashion as he documented the world’s most celebrated city for clients like Life and Vogue. This exhibition features a curated collection of his Parisian-centric works. Sixty original prints, such as his famous “The Lovers of the Bastille,” which shows a man and a woman atop the July Column looking over the sprawling metropolis, are featured.

Willy Ronis • OPEN: 10am–6pm daily (closed Mondays) • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Gion Shijo Stn • TEL: 075-525-1311 • kahitsukan.or.jp/frame.html

SHIGA

WAKAYAMA

DISCOVERING NAGATA YUJI, UNSUNG MAKI-E MASTER

LOVE (YOUR) LIFE!

Miho Museum • Jun 8–Jul 15 Nagata Yuji is said to have been a craftsman active in Kyoto during the Edo period; however, not much about his life and work is known for sure. Nonetheless, he is remembered as a master of maki-e, a type of artisanal lacquerware sprinkled with gold or silver powder. His creations used a unique green-based blue lacquer and tin powder, a method that has become distinctive in lacquer craft history. This exhibition is an opportunity to appreciate the attractive works of Nagata as well as ponder his life. Displayed together with genealogical research results and scientific analysis, the hope is to glean a clearer picture of the mysterious master craftsman.

Nagata Yuji • OPEN: 10am–5pm (closed Mondays except Jul 15) • ADMISSION: ¥1100 • ACCESS: 50-min bus ride from JR Ishiyama Stn • TEL: 0748-82-3411 • miho.or.jp/exhibition/nagata-yuji

Need more Art?

The Museum of Modern Art, Wakayama • Until June 30 The works included in this MOMAW exhibition explore themes and motifs that are familiar in daily life as well as everyday experiences. However, these recognizable facets of existence are transformed into something unfamiliar, resulting in subtle inconsistencies and gaps designed to make the viewer question. Though the artists included all tended to participate in similar activities—eating, sleeping, working, studying—they managed to interpret everyday activities in profoundly different ways. This is aided by the range of time periods and locales covered in the exhibition.

Paintings, photographs, and sculptures spanning various genres and mediums will be displayed.

Everyday Art • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (closed Mondays) • ADMISSION: ¥510 • ACCESS: Short bus ride from JR Wakayama Stn • TEL: 073-436-8690 • momaw.jp/exhibit/ after/2019love.php

CATS DEPICTED BY RENOWNED UKIYO-E ARTISTS OF THE EDO AND MEIJI PERIODS – KUNIYOSHI, HIROSHIGE, KUNISADA, TOYOKUNI, EISEN AND MORE Osaka Museum of History • Jul 27–Sep 8 This exhibition is all about those fascinating and mysterious creatures who have long captured humanity’s interest and their influence on Japanese art. Cats have captivated artists since ancient times—The Wonderful World of Cats showcases ukiyo-e works depicting cats by various ukiyo-e artists active in the Edo and Meiji periods. In Japan, cats were beloved

by Edo era citizens for their ability to keep the mouse population in check, but also for their quirks. Many artists anthropomorphized the animals, highlighting their charms. The exhibition also features cat-related artworks and objects created in and around Osaka, included a clay figure of a cat.

The Wonderful World of Cats in Ukiyo-e • OPEN: Wed–Mon 9:30am–5pm (Fridays during the exhibition period 9.30am8pm)* Please Enter 30 Minutes Prior To Closing • ADMISSION: ¥800 • ACCESS: Short walk from Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn • TEL: 06 6946 5728 • mus-his. city.osaka.jp/eng/exhibitions/ special.html

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

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What’s On  Live Music OSAKA

DANIEL POWTER Jun 26 Canadian singer-songwriter Daniel Richard Powter, best known for his 2005 hit song Bad Day, released his debut studio album I’m Your Betty in the summer of 2000.

While that album failed to chart, in 2005 his second album, selftitled, broke into the top ten in five countries and achieved its highest position of number 4 in Japan.

Powter, for all the promise, hasn’t really reached the same heights as the single Bad Day, but he has been busy over the last year putting out a number of singles; Perfect For Me, Do You Want To

Rock & Pop SCANDAL Jun 2 & 23 Japanese rock band from Osaka

Get Lucky, and Survivor. At the end of last year, he released the album Giants.

Last year, Powter discussed on Singapore radio the prospect of this new album. When asked how he approaches writing new songs after such a huge hit like Bad Day his answer was simple, “I don’t think about it.” Daniel Powter is a musician who simply enjoys his music and has also written plenty of music for other artists.

Canadian pop-rock musician • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Singer-songwriter • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,800/¥7,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

GLAY Jun 20 & 21 Japanese visual-kei rock band Orix Theater, Osaka • Rock • 6:30pm • ¥8,640 • Tel: 06-6341-3525

ROTTENGRAFFTY

Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Pop-rock • 6pm • ¥6,000 • Tel: 066357-4400

Jun 21 20th-anniversary tour of Japanese band from Kyoto

BLUE MAN GROUP

Namba Hatch, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥3,610 • Tel: 06-6357-4400

Jun 12–16 Music & Art performance group Orix Theater, Osaka • Performance Art • 7pm Jun 12th & 13th; 2pm & 7pm Jun 14th; 1pm & 5pm Jun 15th; 1pm & 4pm Jun 16th • ¥7,000/¥10,500 • Tel: 0570-200-888

MORRIE

FLOW Jun 22 Japanese rock-rap band formed 2006 Namba Hatch, Osaka • Rock rap • 6pm • ¥5,300 • Tel: 06-6341-3525

ROYZ

Jun 15 Japanese rock vocalist Motoyuki Otsuka

Jun 22 Japanese visual-kei rock band

Muse, Kyoto • Rock • 2pm/6:30pm • ¥7,000/¥7,700 • Tel: 03-6417-4519

Club Quattro, Osaka • Rock • 6pm • ¥4,200 • Tel: 06-6341-3525

FRYING DUTCHMAN

KEISAN DEATH

Jun 15 Kyoto-based punk-rock band UrbanGuild, Kyoto • Punk • 7pm • ¥2,000/¥2,400 • Tel: 075-212-1125

KNOCK OUT MONKEY Jun 19 Japanese four-piece rock band Club Quattro, Osaka • Rock • 6:30pm • ¥3,500 • Tel: 0570-200-888

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Jun 22 Japanese rock singer and guitarist Rooterx2, Kyoto • Heavy Rock • 5:30pm • ¥4,000/¥4,500 • Tel: 075811-4158

MAN WITH A MISSION Jun 24 & 26 Wolf-mask wearing Japanese rock band

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥5,000 • Tel: 0570-200-888

CRAZY KEN BAND Jun 25 Japanese band lead by frontman Ken Yokoyama Chicken George, Kobe • Funk • 7pm • ¥6,500 • Tel: 06-6882-1224

DANIEL POWTER Jun 26 Canadian pop-rock musician Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Pop-rock • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,800/¥7,800 • Tel: 06-6342-7722

BOYZONE Jun 27 Reformed Irish boy band Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Pop • Time: TBA • ¥TBA • Tel: 06-7174-8553

LUNKHEAD Jun 29 Japanese rock post-punk band Janus, Osaka • Rock • 6pm • ¥4,000 • Tel: 0570-200-888

THE WILDHEARTS Jun 30 English heavy-rock band formed 1989 246 Gabu, Osaka • Rock • 7:30pm • ¥7,800 • Tel: 06-6305-2246

B’Z Jul 3, 5 & 6 Japanese rock vocal & guitar duo plus band

OSAKA

MAN WITH A MISSION Jun 24 & 26 If this five-piece band doesn’t first capture attention with its music, then the fact that they all wear wolf masks certainly turns some heads! Formed in Shibuya, Tokyo in 2010, the band consists of Tokyo Tanaka (vocals, leader), Jean-Ken Johnny (guitar, vocals, rap), Kamikaze Boy (bass guitar, backing vocals), DJ Santa Monica (DJ, sampling) and Spear Rib (drums). A lot of their music has been used as theme songs for anime, live-action movies, and video games.

The band’s fifth studio album Chasing the Horizon was their first album to get an international release. It was put out in Japan in June 2018, then digitally worldwide two days later, followed by a physical international version of the album in August 2018.

Man with a Mission returns to Japan for extra dates after playing the famous London venue 100 Club.

Japanese five-piece rock band • Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥5,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888

What’s On  Live Music

See Kansaifinder.com for more

PHOTO BY KIM FOX

KYOTO

JASON LEE BRUNS JAZZ COLLECTIVE July 15 Drummer, percussionist, producer, and composer, Jason Lee Bruns returns to Japan with his band Jazz Collective. As published in Jazz Times, he is “…able to maintain melodies on many levels on his kit without getting in the way of the band, but adding so much rhythmic color at the same time.”

This is the second tour of Japan for Bruns, who holds a Masters in Jazz from USC and a Masters in Recording Arts from Berklee, is published by the Percussive Arts Society, and has been a

guest lecturer and performer for St. Petersburg College and Jazz Festival. He will be performing with vocalist Kevin Bache (the two artists have recorded together and released the album Cherry Avenue).

US drummer and multi-percussionist • Bonds Rosary, Kyoto • Jazz • 7:30pm • ¥4,000 • TEL: 075-285-2859

ORANGE RANGE Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Rock • 7pm Jul 3 & 5; 5pm Jul 6 • ¥9,500 • Tel: 06-6357-4400

DA PUMP Jul 7 Japanese pop dance group Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Pop • 4pm • ¥7,500 • Tel: 06-6357-4400

Club Quattro, Osaka • Ska-punk • 5:30pm • ¥4,000 • Tel: 06-6535-5569

British blues and prog-rock guitarist

THE MUGGLES

Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Blues Rock • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥7,000/¥8,000 • Tel: 06-634207722

Every Fri & Sat Mellow ballads, classic rock, and dynamic rock n roll from Osaka-based jamming band

RADWIMPS

Woodstock Café, Ashiya • Group Sounds • Free Admission (¥2,000 for 2 drinks + snack) • Tel: 079-734-1044

Jul 9 & 10 Japanese rock band since 2003

Jazz & Blues

Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥8,100 • Tel: 06-6341-3525

HYDE

MONDAY MICHIRU

Jul 13 & 14 and 16 & 17 Japanese band by Hideto Takarai

Jun 17 Japanese-American jazz musician and singersongwriter

Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock • 4pm Jul 13 & 14; 6pm Jul 16 & 17 • ¥7,190 • Tel: 0570-200-888

Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • Club Jazz • 7pm/9:30pm • ¥6,000/¥6,500 • Tel: 06-6342-5821

ALDIOUS Jul 13 Japanese melodic metal band featuring guest vocalist RINA Varit, Kobe • Metal • 6pm • ¥4,500/¥5,000 • Tel: 078-335-8879

MAY’N Jul 14 Japanese pop singer Mei Nakabayashi Big Cat, Osaka • Pop • 5:30pm • ¥5,400 • Tel: 06-6357-4400

KEMURI Jul 15 Japanese-American skapunk band

SHAKATAK

MARK ALLEN FELTON Jul 2 US jazz-funk saxophonist Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Jazz • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥5,900/¥6,900 • Tel: 06-6342-7722

JOSHUA BREAKSTONE Jul 5 US jazz guitarist

KYOTO

Bonds Rosary, Kyoto • Jazz • 7:30pm • ¥2,900 • Tel: 075-285-2859

JESSE JOHNSON Jul 10 US rock-blues-funk guitarist Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Blues-rock-funk • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥7,000/¥8,000 • Tel: 06-6342-7722

ALFONSO JOHNSON

Jun 20 & 21 English jazz-funk band since 1980

Jul 11 70’s American jazz bassist

Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Funk • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥7,500/¥8,500 • Tel: 06-6342-7722

Live Spot Rag, Kyoto • Jazz Fusion• 7:30pm • ¥5,200/¥6,000 • Tel: 075241-2022

LEWIS NASH Jun 25, 27 & 28 American jazz drummer Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • Jazz • 7pm & 9pm Jun 25 & 28 • ¥4,500/¥6,500 • 6:30pm & 9:15pm Jun 27 • ¥5,500/¥6,000 • Tel: 06-6342-5821

TERRY REID Jun 27

World WEIWEI WUU Jul 15 Chinese Erhu player Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • World • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥5,500/¥6,500 • Tel: 06-6342-7722

KYOTO DAISAKUSEN MUSIC FESTIVAL Jun 29 & 30 and July 6 & 7 Kyoto Daisakusen Music Festival has in past years been a one-weekend affair, but this year the popular event has expanded to two weekends. Held in the large Yamashiro Sports Park Taiyogaoka in Uji, Kyoto, the festival also goes by the name of Mission Impossible. June 29th features Orange Range, 10 Feet, Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra, and Rottengraffty, among others, while the 30th has Acidman, Ken Yokoyama, Dustbox, and Dizzy Sunfist.

The following weekend starts on July 6th with Glim Spanky, Man with a Mission, and Super Beaver on the bill. The final day of the festival (July 7th) features Sambomaster, Begin, and My Hair Is Bad. Access to the location is from Uji JR Station on the Nara Line. There are buses running from the station but if you don’t mind walking, a brisk 30-minute stroll might get you there more quickly than the bus due to traffic.

Rock and Pop Music Festival • Yamashiro Sports Park Taiyogaoka, Uji, Kyoto • Rock & Pop • 11am • 1 day ¥6,400; 2 days ¥12,400; 4 days ¥24,400 • kyotodaisakusen.kyoto/19/

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What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife Jun

Where: Kitakagaya • Tel: • clubdaphnia.com

8 (SAT)

CAULIFLOWER

JOULE

Eclec (Techno) 7 (FRI)

CIRCUS Lark (Techno) DJs: Yoske, Ryoukei, Akira Saotome, Spot + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥2,600/1D (ADV: ¥2,100/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

METRO Yelltail presents Andy Vaz in Kyoto (Deep House) DJs: Andy Vaz, Hayase, Ouchi-S, Stones Taro, + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,300/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

NOON + CAFE 878ten (Acid House/ Experimental) DJs: Makiyama, Ikebe + more • Open: 8pm • Admission: ¥1,200/1D • Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-6373-4919 • noon-cafe.com

OCTAVE Kiki Kaikai (Techno/ Tribal) DJs: Thomas Von Party, Red Sun Blues a.k.a.Mamezuka, Gr〇und, Lost, Chari + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D • Where: Kyoto • facebook.com/ octavekyoto

DJs: Akihiro, Mitsuyas, Wataru Takagi, Izumi Kimura + more • Open: 10am • Admission: ¥1,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6484-3110 • barcauliflower.com

CIRCUS

Oldnew (Psychedelic Trance/Techno) DJs: Kenji, Yuji, Yasuo, Koki, Yasuhiro, Pepe + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥700/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066214-1223 • club-joule.com

SUN HALL

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE

EXODUS

Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)

Spiritual Tribe × Red Eye Jedi in Osaka (Psychedelic Trance)

DJs: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • Open: 10pm • Admission Men ¥1,500/1D; Ladies ¥700/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka. com

13 (THU)

STOMP

Florian Kupfer × Pearson Sound All Night Long!

(Techno)

Wols feat. Alzar (Techno) • Live: The Delta

Butt (Electronica/ Experimental)

DJs: Florian Kupfer, Pearson Sound + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,600/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

DJs: Takaaki Itoh, Ree K, Loe, Takekiyo Ishimoto + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,600/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6213-7077 • sunhall.jp

DJs: Avv, Kafuka, Masahiko Takeda, Hideo Nakasako + more • Open: 7pm–Midnight • Admission: Free • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6245-0889 • club-stomp.com

COMPUFUNK RECORDS

STOMP

Clap Hands (Techno)

Modulation Now! (Techno)

Monza (Techno)

DJs: Tkc, Kurusu, Bucco, Spinnuts, Young Animal + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6245-0889 • clubstomp.com

DJs: Erica, Aoki Takamasa, Kohei + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,100/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

Acts: Crossbred, Dnt, Taichi, Tell + more • Open: 11:30pm • Admission: ¥2,600/1D • (ADV: ¥2,100/1D) • Where: Kitahama • Tel: 06-6314-6541 • compufunk. com

DAPHNIA Club Daphnia Opening Party vol.3 – Fêi Cuì #01: Fede Lng, Albino Sound, Paperkraft (House/ Techno) DJs: Fede Lng, Albino Sound, Paperkraft, Akemi, Avv + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,600/1D • (ADV: ¥2,100/1D) •

15 (SAT)

CIRCUS

Live: Red Eye Jedi • DJs: Morrieo, Fly, Hiroto, Show-Hey, Gu + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,500 • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6532-9385 • exodus728. com

PICCADILLY Tcpt presents Mesto Japan Tour in Osaka (EDM) DJs: Mesto, Taku-Hero, Youichi, Ryu-to + more • Open: 4pm–10pm • Admission: ¥4,600/1D (ADV: ¥4,100/1D) • Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly. com

PICCADILLY NewÔrder feat. Gta (EDM) DJs: Gta, Ray, Shinji, Silver Fox, Walt, Chikara, Genki + more • Open: 9pm • Admission: TBA • Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-68095895 • clubpiccadilly.com

SOUTH SWELL

9 (SUN)

COMPUFUNK RECORDS

City Boy Lounge (House)

DNA PARADISE KYOTO

Equalize (Techno/Deep Tech)

DJs: City Boy Lounge + more • Open: 7pm–11pm • Admission: ¥1,000 • Where: Awaza • Tel: 06-6535-8852 • facebook.com/South-SwellCafe-711809535511677

Hibiya Line from Vietnam (Techno/House) DJs: Hibiya Line, Kazuma, Sinkichi + more • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥1,500/1D • Where: Kyoto • dnaparadise.space

Acts: Bodil, Ryoma Sasaki, Ouchi-S, Kawano Yasunori + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥1,700/1D • Where: Kitahama • Tel: 06-6314-6541 • compufunk. com

ABA SHANTI-L

JUN 21 (FRI) NOON + CAFE The reggae legend Aba Shanti-I is coming back to Japan for the first time in seven years. Aba’s sound systems have been playing around Europe and the UK since the early 1990s. He was quickly named the No.1 DJ in the world by DJ magazine in 1993. His sound system has been a staple at the Notting Hill Carnival ever since.

He was a founding sound system of the University of Dub in the late 90s and continues to be a regular at their events. His music is inspired by roots reggae and dub and masterfully incorporates dub effects to create his distinctive sound. Reggae is the perfect soundtrack for the start of summer, so don’t miss Zettai-mu!

Aba Shanti-I Japan Tour 2019 “Zettai-Mu” (Dub/Reggae/Bass) • ACTS: Aba Shanti-I, Undefined, Kuranaka a.k.a 1945, Naga, Yone + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,800/1D • WHERE: Umeda • TEL: 06-6373-4919 • noon-cafe.com

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Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

See Kansaifinder.com for more 21 (FRI)

TRIANGLE

CAULIFLOWER

Ldg 3rd Anniversary Alien Rain Tour in Osaka Supported by Ring (Techno)

Berlin Calling in Osaka (Techno) DJs: Edward Baker, Sameer, Lnzr, Eisen, Aika Atoh + more • Open: 11am • Admission: ¥1,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6484-3110 • barcauliflower.com

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Loyal (Open Format) DJs: Imai, Danbo, J Amour + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: Men ¥1,500/1D; Ladies ¥700/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

22 (SAT)

CIRCUS DJ Zinc Japan Tour 2019 in Osaka (Jungle/ Drum&Bass) DJs: Zinc + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,100/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format) DJs: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Macko + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: Men ¥1,500/1D; Ladies ¥700/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

METRO Kyoto 2019 Yoru no Bu (Electro/House) Acts: Konkos, Sekitova, Pasokon Ongaku Club, Halfby, Sawa Angstrom + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,600/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

OCTAVE Melon/Lemon (Techno/ Tribal)

Acts: Alien Rain, Saki, Tez & Yuta, Momo, Doppelgenger, Fly, Hendanshi, Oshaley + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,100/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6212-2264 • triangleosaka.com

23 (SUN) Ghost Ultra Lounge Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)

METRO Canvas vol.3“Another World is Possible” (Techno/Experimental/ Art) DJs: T-Ak, Tatzuma, Uq, Imadegawa, You-more + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

26 (FRI)

CIRCUS Wa (House) DJs: Yashima, Maxpela, Naoto, Naoya, Masaaki + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,100/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

TROOP CAFÉ

AUG

5 Years of Sound of Vast in Kobe (Minimal House/ Techno) DJs: Vid aka Egal 3, Soichi + more • Open: 6pm–11:30pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D (Under 23: ¥1,000/1D) • Where: Kobe • Tel: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe.jp

26 (WED)

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Answer (Open Format)

31 (SAT) Shadow Game vol.4 (Psychedelic Trance) Acts: Rezonant + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,600/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

28 (FRI)

NOON + CAFE Reality Bites vol.3 (Funk/ Juke) DJs: Fulltono, Pinch, Fulltono, Opal 7, Ouch-S + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-6373-4919 • noon-cafe. com

DNA PARADISE

5 (FRI)

METRO Licaxxx Japan Tour with Tcr (Techno/House) DJs: Licaxxx + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: TBA • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

GALANTIS

CIRCUS

DJs: Ar, Tact, Hao, Takumi + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: Men ¥1,500/1D; Ladies ¥700/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

JUL

DJs: Tuttle a.k.a. Marginal Man, Hayato, Lost, Wataru + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: TBA • Where: Kyoto • dnaparadise. space

14 (SUN/BEFORE HOLIDAY)

DJs: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: Men ¥1,500/1D; Ladies ¥700/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

Acts: Mdm Columbia, Noisegoat, Mamazu, Sota, Hobobrazil. + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: TBA • Where: Kyoto • facebook. com/octavekyoto

Melon/Lemon (Techno/ Tribal)

What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife

Need more parties?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

AUG 24 (SAT) & 25 (SUN)

TARUI SOUTHERN BEACH If you love the beach and EDM, grab a pass for Music Circus—the biggest annual EDM festival in Kansai. Over the last several years, they have invited some of the most popular international DJs such as Fedde Le Grand, Afrojack, W & W, R3hab, and Borgeou. This year’s party continues the tradition of hosting the best DJs from around the world. So far, they have announced the Swedish duo Galantis (“Runaway (U & I)”—2014) and the Dutch duo Yellow Claw (“Shotgun feat. Rochelle”—2013) are playing. Stay tuned to the website for more updates as there will be more than 40 international/Japanese artists in total. The closest station to the festival is Nankai Tarui, which is about 50 minutes from Namba Station. If you are under 22, don’t forget to bring your student ID to get ¥2,000 cash back at the entrance.

Music Circus ’19 (EDM) • ACTS: Galantis, Yellow Claw + more • OPEN: 10am–9pm • ADMISSION: 1-Day Pass ¥10,800/2D; 2-Day Pass ¥18,500/2D • WHERE: Sennan City • TEL: 0570-200-888 • music-circus.jp

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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Food & Drink

OSAKA

Asian Bar Ramai JAPANESE

Ever wondered where to get your hearty Sapporo soup curry fix down here in Kansai? When walking into Abiko’s Asian Bar Ramai, you’ll feel like you’ve just stepped through a portal to South East Asia but the cuisine on the menu is distinctly Hokkaido-esque. Spicy bowls of soupy curry with chunks of seared meat and vegetables with rice on the side await you.

Choose the spice level you fancy and yes, it goes all the way up to burn-your-mouth hot.

7-12-5 Kanda, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6657-7196

Osaka SHINSAIBASHI LA GOLOSETTA

FRENCH Authentic yet creative french bistro-style dining and decadent desserts.

2-17-17 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6534-6686

CURRY DEKKAO

PIZZERIA Authentic Napoli-style pizzeria serving up delicious pizzas and appetizers from its small two-storey location in Minami-semba.

ETHNIC Sri Lankan-style curries in a cosy, no frills eatery in Minamisemba. Large colorful masks highlight its 2nd floor location.

2-8-13 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6264-1225 • lagolosetta.web. fc2.com

3-8-5 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4963-3746

TOFU SORANO

OSAKA CHAKAI

JAPANESE Enjoy creative tofu dishes and izakaya favorites in this sleek Japanese restaurant featuring a modern, minimalist interior.

Choose your favorite premium rokucha green tea and have it freshly ground for you at this stylish cafe serving green tea drinks and desserts in Minami-morimachi.

4-5-6 Minami-kyuhojimachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6120-0644 • foodgate.net/ shop/sorano.html

1F 2-1-25 Tenjinbashi, Kita-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6755-4789 • www.osakachakai.jp/eng

CAFE

PIZZERIA DA TIGRE

WAD

TOKI NO HA Delicious bowls of noodles and freshly steamed dumplings are the main draw at this chinese tea emporium run by the same owner/chef as Kuushin.

CHINESE

COCOWELL CAFE

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-15-10 • TEL: 06-65437071

JAPANESE Healthy, coconut-laced lunch plates and desserts are the focus of this all-day dining eco-friendly cafe in Horie.

Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-13-21 • TEL: 06-65315572

BASE ISLAND KITCHEN This tiny counter-only restaurant serves up an eclectic mix of delicious tapas ranging from vegetarian and vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk Chicken! Open until 5pm daily.

ETHNIC

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-16-27

4-9-3 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4708-3616 • wad-cafe.com

LA FINESTRA

1-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 066535-8624

KUUSHIN

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-14-20 • TEL: 06-65678403

ITALIAN Spacious open-plan restaurant offering pasta and other Italian dishes near Orix Theater.

1-33-8 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6606-9016

LA BELLE VIE

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CHINESE Choose from daily A or B set lunches or an evening course of creative chinese cuisine at one of the tastiest chinese restaurants in Osaka.

Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-7729

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

BISTRO NEW ORLEANS

Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-6001

Choose your dish by its country of origin, in this comfortable restaurant that serves up everything from Vietnamese pho to English Shepherd’s Pie, depending on the day of the week.

CAFE This cafe and art gallery serves traditional Japanese green tea in beautiful ceramic dishes.

Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-6 • TEL: 06-6556-6682

Authentic New Orleansstyle restaurant, serving up Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location.

A down-to-earth pizzeria serving up a tasty range of authentic, sensibly priced Napoli-style pizzas. Pizzas are ordered via a ramen shop-style ticket machine. Sit at their u-shaped counter or takeaway.

ITALIAN

sauces are handmade with the freshest ingredients.

TABIJI KITCHEN ETHNIC

CRAFT BURGER Run by a friendly Aussie expat and his wife, Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which the patties, buns, and all their AMERICAN

AMERICAN

SAUCE BOSS Serving up mouthwatering chicken wings in a huge variety of flavors, with craft beer and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down.

AMERICAN

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie, 1-5-13 • TEL: 06-71717938

AN NGON An Ngon certainly lives up to its name, meaning “it’s delicious” in Vietnamese. The cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other Vietnamese decorations and boasts an extensive menu.

ETHNIC

4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6282-4567

CAFE ABSINTHE Stylish Mediterranean restaurant and bar serving craft cocktails, and excellent food, including hummus, falafel and babaganoush.

ETHNIC

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-2-27 • TEL: 06-65346635

PAPRIKA SHOKUDO Vegetarian/vegan restaurant serving creative JAPANESE

Food & Drink

See Kansaifinder.com for more meat-free dishes - so flavorsome you could swear you were eating meat sometimes!

Shinmachi 1-9-9, Nishi-ku • TEL: 06-65999788

EL PANCHO Serving up authentic Mexican fare since 1978, El Pancho offers great value combo plates and a happy hour that runs from 11:30am–5pm daily!

MEXICAN

Shinsaibashi Tower Bldg. 8F • TEL: 066241-0588

ALI’S KITCHEN Halal-certified Pakistani and Arabic cuisine, with over 200 menu items, including their popular goat brain masala and signature biryani dishes.

ETHNIC

B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4708-5745

SATURDAYS NYC CAFES AND TEAROOMS Laid-back, spacious cafe cum boutique with a large island counter to recharge both your laptop and your senses.

4-13-22 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4963-3711

TAVOLA 36 ITALIAN Occupying the 36th floor of the Swissôtel in Namba, this upscale restaurant serves an excellent buffet lunch and offers some fantastic views over the city day or night.

5-1-60 Namba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-66465125

MURPHY’S IRISH PUB Japan’s oldest Irish bar and proud to provide the cheapest full pint in Osaka, Guinness and Kilkenny direct from Ireland, and a comprehensive selection of whiskeys and spirits.

BARS

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-Suji 1-5-2 2F • TEL: 06-6245-3757

THE BLARNEY STONE Irish pub in the heart of Shinsaibashi with live bands, great food and international staff. Happy Hour until 8pm.

BARS

Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-5-27 Koda Bldg.

B1F • TEL: 06-6468-2220

SUSHI KAIBA

HARDROCK CAFE

JAPANESE

Marrying a modern Japanese interior with authentic nigiri-zushi, Kaiba sets the standard for casual sushi dining.

Choose from set courses or a la carte.

International chain offering authentic American favorites – including its famous burgers and smokehouse sandwiches – and live music on the weekends.

Kitahorie 1-15-22 • TEL: 06-6532-2918

3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6120-5711

THE SUITE

CAFES AND TEAROOMS Great coffee and relaxing decor at this wonderful riverside location in Kitahama, overlooking the Central Public Hall.

Chuo Ward, Nishishinsaibashi, 2-18-18 • TEL: 06-6282-7742

2 Chome-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6125-5740

ZERRO

TENNOJI

Popular Shinsaibashi bar with live DJs every weekend and no cover charge. Great food, cocktails and international beers from 500 yen.

BARS

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2 • TEL: 06-6211-0439

UMEDA

1−1−1 Uehonmachi, Tennoji Ku, Osaka • Tel: 080-2423-4590

OSAKA

Fine French cuisine with an Osaka twist in Dojima, created from organic local ingredients and served in stylish yet unpretentious surroundings.

Bokkakeya

Hatsune Bldg. 2F, 1-5-4 Dojima Kita-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6147-633

Nishi-ku, Shinmachi 1-2-13 1F • Tel 06-6535-2483 • soba-bokkakeya.com

CASUAL KAPPOU IIDA Enjoy exquisite Japanese cuisine served in multiple courses at this nine-seater casual kappou restaurant.

Reservations recommended.

MAÎTRE RENARD

This rustic sobaya in Minami-semba serves delicious hand-cut buckwheat soba noodles in a delicate Kansaistyle broth. Choose from a range of hot or cold variations, including soba topped with seasonal vegetables, or kakiage tempura - deep-fried shredded vegetables and prawns. Lunch sets include either rice with a spicy-miso topping, or inari zushi - rice balls wrapped in a sweet tofu skin. During the evenings, the menu is expanded to include izakaya fare and a great selection of local sake.

BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY (KITAHAMA)

Modeled after a 1920s New York hotel suite, this place is as suave as it gets and the perfect spot for some postdinner cocktails. Featuring live entertainment every weekend on its chandelier-lit stage area.

WINE AND COCKTAILS

FRENCH

JAPANESE

AMERICAN

BEER BELLY

KAPPOU

COCOMOMO&CO. Wholesome fusion cuisine in Tennoji serving up Mediterranean, Asian and British favorites and tempting cakes and desserts. Great for vegetarians, vegans and families.

ETHNIC

Abeno-ku, Matsuzakicho 3-6-2 • TEL: 06-6624-8323

TIN’S HALL

Osaka’s local award-winning brewery, Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in Higobashi. Serving seasonal brews as well as its regular lineup on tap, including its award winning stout and decent bar food.

A perennial favorite for many expats, serving good bar food and drinks. Look out for happy hour from 6–9pm where a beer and generously sized burger combo is just 1,000yen. Free live music on Saturday nights.

Nishi-ku, Tosabori 1-1-30 • TEL: 06-64410717

Tennoji Ward, Minamikawahoricho, 10−3 • TEL: 06-6773-5955

CRAFT BEER BARS

PIERRE The InterContinental Osaka’s 20th floor Michelinstarred restaurant features a seasonal fine dining menu in sophisticated surroundings.

FRENCH

BARS

DARUMA

3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku • TEL: 06-63745700

No frills, kushikatsu (deep-fried battered meat and vegetables on sticks) dining in front of Tsutenkaku Tower.

Remember the golden rule when reaching for the sauce – no double dipping!

OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE

Osaka, Naniw-ku, Ebisucho-higashi 2-3-9 • TEL: 06-6645-7056

AMERICAN Australian-themed steakhouse chain, serving up juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood.

Kita-ku, Dojima 1-6-20 • TEL: 06-6457-7121

JAPANESE

ZUBORAYA One of Shinsekai’s iconic restaurants. Look for the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair.

Whatever form of blowfish you JAPANESE

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

41

Food & Drink

HYOGO

Daizuya VEGETARIAN

PHOTO: CLARE MIDGLEY

At Daizuya, the humble soy bean’s versatility is exploited to the max, creating an array of tastes and textures. The ¥3,000 seasonal set menu combines the traditional with the unexpected; as well as tucking into tempura, shrimp rice, steamed vegetables and soup, you’ll sample tofu flavored with mustard, black sesame, miso, and green tea. The variety of Daizuya’s soy-based offerings—including firm and soft tofu, regional varieties, and even tofu skin with avocado—is matched only by the range of condiment options. If you’re not fond of bean curd, see the à la carte menu for alternatives, such as grilled chicken, or shrimp and avocado salad.

Eagle Bldg B1F, 4−7−20 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 050-5285-7538

can imagine, Zuboraya has it at an affordable price.

Naniwa-Ku, Ebisu-Higashi 2-5-5 • TEL: 06-6633-5529

AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARK Airy two-storey trattoria serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated Tenshiba park area. Good choice for families with children.

ITALIAN

5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji-ku • TEL: 06-6773-2225

Kyoto IN THE MOON ROOFTOP BAR A beautiful open-air spot to retreat to and relax with an ice-cold drink and take in the sunset, with views over the city and mountain ranges of Kyoto.

200 RF Kamogawa Bldg, Nakanocho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto • Tel: 075-708-6966

GOMACRO SALON Gomacro is paradise for sesame fans. Everything on the menu—including drinks and desserts—is sesame-based. As well as being vegan, the focus is on healthy and seasonal food.

VEGAN

67-3 Shinmeicho, Nakagyo ward, Kyoto • 075-257-5096

SPICE CHAMBER ETHNIC Counter-style curry restaurant serving up fiery Indian-style curries, accompanied with homemade pickles.

42

1F Fukui Bldg., 502 Hakurakuten-cho, Muromachi-dori, Ayanokoji-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku • 075-342-3813 • spicechamber.com

ROCK BAR ING A stalwart of the Kiyamachi bar scene since 1998, this small but cosy rock’n’roll bar promises good times, cheap beer and great music.

BAR

288-201 Minami Kuruyamacho, Nishi Kiyamachidori Takoyakushi-Agaru, Nakagyo-Ku • Tel: 075-255-5087

BEER KOMACHI A small izakayastyle dining bar with seven taps of Japanese craft beer and a good sake menu to boot. Serves excellent food.

CRAFT BEER BARS

444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-746-6152

KYOTO BEER LAB A cosy brewpub run by Kyoto’s own ChaBeer Brewing Company, offering some rather unusual beers, including its American Hopped Green Tea Pale Ale, infused with green tea grown in nearby Wazuka-cho.

CRAFT BEER BARS

Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201 • TEL: 075-352-6666

MILTON’S KYOTO Cosy hole-in-the-wall 8-seater bar run by Englishspeaking local artist, Milton.

A huge choice of liquors to choose from, including a good range of rums and whiskies.

Non smoking.

BARS

Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

UMENOHANA KARASUMA Tofu in all its forms and variations, coupled with seasonal vegetables and presented in a stunning fine dining setting.

English menu available.

JAPANESE

Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West 18 Bldg. B1F • TEL: 075-254-0566

KATSUKURA SANJO Grind your own sesame seeds at this stylish chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants. Great value set meals including all-you-can-eat rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the original store.

JAPANESE

Hyogo CAFE AGEHA A perfect pit stop after a morning exploring the Kitano area, Ageha serves healthy brown rice lunch sets and tempting fruit tarts from its spacious location near the top of Tor Road.

JAPANESE

2-4-8 Nakayamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • Tel: 078-321-2780

UNDERGROUND BAKERY

16, Ishibashicho, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075212-3581

Scones, brownies, Victoria sponge cakes - this little bakery is a homage to British baking, but sells out fast.

KUSHIKURA

5-1-1 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • ugbakery.com

JAPANESE Charcoal grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables dishes served in a beautiful 100-year-old traditional kyo-machiya house.

584 Hiiragi-cho Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075213-2211

FALAFEL GARDEN ETHNIC Laid-back Israeli cafe and restaurant near Demachiyanagi. Authentic falafel and other vegetarian-friendly options available.

15-2 Tanaka Kamiyanagicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-712-1856 • www. falafelgarden.com

BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES

BAAN THAI Popular Thai restaurant tucked away near Ikuta-jinja shrine, that offers spicy Thai favorites in cosy surroundings.

THAI

1-8-8 Kitanagasadori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-391-0545

BAKERY RIKI Tiny bakery in Motomachi drawing crowds with its impressive range of freshly baked breads and sweet treats. Get there early.

BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES

2-7-4 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-392-8585

Need more dining options?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

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6/7

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Maps & Info

Welcome To Kansai Getting Around

Taxis

The Kansai area covers the prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. There is so much to explore, so you’ll need to prioritize your time wisely. Its main travel hubs are Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed rail networks, including the shinkansen (bullet train).

On regular trains, you can travel between Osaka and Kyoto in about 45 mins, and between Kobe and Osaka in about 30 mins. If you are here on holiday, pick up a convenient travel pass, such as the Kansai Thu Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai One Pass (kansaionepass.com), to avoid having to negotiate the ticket machines. Use a website such as HyperDia (hyperdia.com) to check train times and platforms from your smartphone.

Fares start from ¥500. The drivers wearing white gloves and official hats tend to be the most courteous, but don’t expect English to be widely understood.

Have your destination name and address on hand in Japanese. As of February 2019, taxis can now be ordered using the Uber app.

Trains and Subways There is an excellent rail network connecting all corners of Kansai. As well as JR (Japan Rail), there are numerous private railway companies servicing the area, including Keihan (Osaka/ Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/ Nagoya). Each line operates several types of train. For the fastest trains, look for the Limited Express service trains.

Be aware that Local trains stop at every station on the line, so only take them if no other type of train stops at your station.

Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto and are an extremely efficient way to get around the cities.

Tip: Pick up a Railway Network map from a major station or Tourist Information Center.

Airport Transfers To/from downtown Osaka, the most convenient option is the Nankai Rapi:t Express service (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, take the JR Airport Express HARUKA service (75 mins).

OSAKA

ATMs and Credit Cards

Hotels and Guesthouses

If you’re using Visa, you will be able to withdraw cash at most bank or convenience-store ATMs. If you’re using Mastercard, your best bet for withdrawing money is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other ATMs in Kansai do not accept Mastercard. It is not common to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards in Japan, even for expensive purchases. Many shops and restaurants do not offer this service, so be sure to carry plenty of cash with you.

Conrad Osaka, Hyatt Regency, Nikko Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Ritz Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka, InterContinental Hotel Osaka

Wi-Fi Getting connected in Kansai can be tricky. Renting a smartphone or SIM card at the airport is the safest option, to connect to the internet over a 3G or 4G network.

In Osaka, you can access the Osaka Free Wi-Fi service at train and subway stations, stores and facilities throughout the prefecture.

Accidents and Emergencies Ambulance/Fire service: Tel. 119 Police: Tel. 110

Buses For out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.

44

GET KANSAI SCENE Kansai Scene is available from the following major outlets in the Kansai region:

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

Tourist Information Centers Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Osaka), Hankyu Tourist Center Umeda, Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Namba), Kansai Tourist Information Center (KIX), Kansai Tourist Information Center (Shinsaibashi), Nankai Information Center (Namba) Shops Kinokuniya Bookstore Umeda, Kinokuniya Honmachi, Tower Records Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe

KYOTO

Hotels and Guesthouses Royal Hotel, Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Nikko Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kyoto Tourist Information Center, Kansai Tourist Information Center Kyoto, Kyoto International Community House Shops Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, GEAR KOBE

Hotels and Guesthouses Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe Portopia Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kobe International Community Center, Hyogo International Plaza Shops Junkudo Nishinomiya, Junkudo Sannomiya, Kinokuniya Kobe

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Post Office

Umeda Sky Building

Shangrila

Club Azul

Hub

Hankyu Tourist Center

Yodobashi Camera

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Grand Front Osaka / Knowledge Capital

German Consulate 35F

Westin Hotel

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Cine Libre Umeda

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Osaka Loop Line Kitano Hosp.

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TGI Fridays Nishiumeda Melbourne Dai-3 Outback 2F Dai-2 Coffee Bldg.

Dai-1 Creamy Bldg.

Herbis Steakhouse Bldg.

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Ogimachi Park

Osaka YWCA

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Dojima River Forum

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Bank of Japan

City Hall

Museum of Oriental Ceramics Osaka City N aniw Public Hall aba shi GARB Weeks

Tosabori River

Mitsui Garden Hotel APA Hotel

Osaka

Science Museum

Beer Belly

Rihga Nakanoshima Inn

Mitsui Sumitomo Bank

3

Library

Brooklyn Roasting Company Kitahama

Osaka International Convention Center (Grand Cube Osaka) Sumitomo Hosp.

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kitahama

Midosuji

Craft Beer Base Garden

TAKAMURA Wine & Coffee Roasters

Yotsubashisuji

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Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

45

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Maharaja Minami Anngon

Big Beans Supermarket Hearton Mizuho Hotel Via Inn Bank Hotel Nishiohashi

Namba Shrine

MoeJoe

Hearton Hotel

bi-grace nail Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau

Saturdays NYC

Nagahori dori

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Triangle Chaolua

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Yotsubashi line

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Joule Dormy Inn Sun Hall Balabushka Ghost 4F Ultralounge Mustang Moonshine Slices Moon Tower

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Pure Osaka

Vista Grande Kaneyoshi Osaka ibis Styles Ryokan Osaka

Don Quijote

Hozenji Temple Osaka Floral Inn

NAMBA

Toho Cinemas Namba annex

Visitors Information Center

MUJI/LOFT Tower Takashimaya Records Absinthe Dept. Store Solaar Swissôtel Maruzen Nankai Osaka

Pub Bar 30 2F Naniwa Sports Center Naniwa Post Office

Jack & Queen B

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

Naniwa Ward Office

National Bunraku Theater Nipponbashi sta.

BIC Camera

Nankai Namba Station

Namba Oriental Hotel

Misono Building

Namba Plaza Hotel

Singh’s Kitchen Jazz Bar B-Roxy

APA Hotel

NIPPONBASHI

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Kuromon Market

Sofmap

McDonalds Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium

NAMBA -NAKA

3

Sunroute DOTONBORIHotel Osaka Namba

Kokopelli

Sennichimae line

Fraser Residence

5

Dormy Inn

Fujiya Hotel

SOEMON-CHO

Burlesque B1

B1

Shimanouchi Library

Cinquecento

Zerro

Toho Cinemas Namba

MOTOMACHI

Bar Jaai

Vanity

Namba Hips

Little Long Beach

Hotel Ichiei

2 Minami Police Station

HIGASHI- soma SHINSAIBASHI

Namba

Casa Lapichu

Naniwa Park

46

2F Murphy’s

Kinryu Ramen

New Japan Spa Plaza ALZAR Rooftop Bar OO

Namba Sta.

Junkudo

INARI

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Hotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka

AEON MaxValu

Cross Hotel

Don Quijote

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South

Kansai Tourist Information Center

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APA Hotel

Dotonbori Hotel

Namba Hatch

Tominaga Hospital

Apple Store

Triangle Park

Ark Hotel

Daimaru Dept.

Silver Ball Planet Cinem @rt

Yamaya

Nagahoribashi

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5F Boy FootRock &BEERS

Daimaru Dept.

North

Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)

TABIJI Kitchen

Nest Hotel

GAP

Uniqlo

8F

Critters Burger Via Inn

Nikko Hotel EXODUS Osaka Hana Banco Hostel OPA Cafe Hotel Vano Mystays Absinthe Circus

Granknot Coffee

Tokyu Hands

El Pancho

Midosuji line

Sauce Boss

Nishitetsu Inn

Yotsubash

Saboten Base Bistro New Orleans

Covent Garden

Craft Burger

El Zocalo

1

Hearton Hotel

Nagahori Tsurumi-Ryokuchi line

Ali’s Kitchen

Toyoko Inn

KITAHORIE

MINAMI-SEMBA Arthur Murray

Louis Vuitton

Shinsaibashi

D

Sakaisuji line

Daiwa Roynet Hotel

C

K2 record Namba PARKS NAMBA PARKS CINEMA

Otaroad

Shinmachi Kita Park

Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)

A

Naniwa-

OSAKA Shinsaibashi

Maps & Info

5

Animate Nihonbashi Shop

Toys”R”Us Yamada Denki LABI1 Namba C

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Osaka Tenmangu Mint Museum

Line

Osaka Castle

The Lutheran Hotel Tanimachi 4-chome

o Koen Osaka-j

Tenmabashi

Hanshin Expressway

Subway Sakaisuji Line

o

Izumi Hall

rk Pa Osaka Castle Park Osaka Museum of History

KKR Hotel Osaka

Hanshin Expressway Higashi Osaka Route

2

Morinomiya

Sakaisuji Honmachi

1

in

Subway Imaza to Line

Subway Tanima chi

e ss

Kitahama

sin

Subway Chuo Line

ig

Hotel New Otani Osaka

Osaka-jo Hall

NHK Osaka Hall

Sh

Bu

Yamamoto Noh Theater

KYOBASHI

i

e

Lin

Osaka Prefectural Government Office

Osaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry APA Hotel

ash

a ka

2

n

iha

Ke

in Ma

i

Hotel Monterey La Souer Osaka

Tenmabashi

MyDome Osaka

sh

Os

TENMA

ba

AEON Kyobashi

oaj e ak um O s i ta z k

Museum of Oriental Ceramics

o Ky

Taiko-en

b Kyo

Osaka Chakai Osaka Temmangu Shrine

1

D Keihan Mall

Osaka Loop Line

Tozai Line

C

OSAKA Osaka Castle

B

Minami-Morimachi

A

Morinomiya Q’s Mall BASE

TAMATSUKURI Osaka Jogakuin College

A

B

C

iya tsuen

-mae

Tenshiba Kans ai Ma in Lin suji L e ine

Imaike

i Main Line Haginoc haya

Nanka

Abeno St a.

Tramw Imfune ay

Hanka i

Yotsubas hi Line ocho

Hanaz on

Abeno Q’s Mall

is

a ak

A

e Han

wa

Tennoji Abeno MIO Harukas Osa ka-A ben obas hi

ROCKTOWN 4F

ine

S

Tin’s Hall

Tenn o Sta. ji

Osaka Municipal University Hospital

L uji

Hoop

Kansai Kyoiku University

Lin

e

2

Kin tets uM

inam

Lezzet

Language School

JR

i-Os

aka

Lin

Kan

e

Ko b

or eg

CocoMomo&Co. B

o

Dobu

ch

Spa World

Imam

Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts

Osaka Tennoji Zoo

Te ra da

Shin-

Osak

a Loo

Tsutenkaku

1

Shitennoji

p Lin

Tanimachi Line

Shitennoji Honbo

Mido

2

odan

SHITENNOJI

Tennoji Sta.

Nank ai Shin -Imam iya

EBISUNISHI

D Tennoji Ward Office

Mom

ress R oute 1 in Exp Hansh

Imamiya Ebisu Shrine

Imam

1

Ebisucho

iyaeb is

u

Daikokucho

Zepp Namba

D

i

C

Shitenn oji-mae Yuhigaok a

B

C

uc

hi

St a.

sai

Ma

in L

ine

D

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

47

OSAKA Tennoji

A

C

to Kyoto Imperal Palace

Hostel Mundo Chiquito Nijo Castle

Clamp Coffee Sasara

1 Hotel Okura Kyoto City Hall

Hearton Hotel

Tozai Subway Line

Yoboji Temple

Kyotoshiyakusho-mae

Sanjo

Nakamura General Store Mikane-Jinja Shrine

Nijojo-Mae

The Museum of Kyoto

Round One

Honnoji Temple Marker

Kyoto BAL

Gion Shirakawa

Nyorinin Hozoji Temple

Kyoto Art Center

to Maruyama Park

Nishiki Market

2

Bukkoji Temple Hotel Nikko Princess Kyoto

oga

Amore Kiyamachi

Kam

Hanano Yu

Kotoku Park

hijo

Gion Corner

Kennin-ji Temple Hojo Yasui Konpiragu Shrine

Daisenji Higashiyama Ward Office

Yumeyakata Gojo Gojo

Tambaguchi

3

Kyoto Gojo Hotel Shuhokaku to Kiyomizu-dera

3

Seikoro

Ichihime-Jinja Shrine

Otani Hombyo Cemetary Sumiya Motenashi Museum Higashi Honganji Temple

Shichijo

Kyoto Aquarium Umekoji Park

Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto

Kyoto National Museum

Yodobashi Camera Kyoto Railway Museum

Toyokuni-Jinja Shrine

Shosei-en Garden

Nishi Honganji Temple

4

2

Shoenji Temple er

Mibudera Temple

Kyoto-Daijingu Shrine

Shijo

Mitsui Garden Hotel

Shin-Omiya

Yasaka Shrine

Gion-S

Kawaramachi

Karasuma

Riv

Omiya

wa

Village Kyoto

Higashiyama

Sanjokeihan

Loft

Rokkakudo Temple Shounji

Kyoto Prefectural Police Station

D

to Heian Shrine

The Ritz-Carlton

Kyoto International Manga Museum

Karasuma Oike

1

Nijo

Chisaku-in Temple

Sanjusangendo

Hyatt Regency Kyoto

Kyoto Tower APA Hotel Rhiga Royal Hotel

4 Kyoto Century Hotel

Bic Camera

Kyoto Station Hotel Granvia

Rokusonno-Jinja Shrine

Imakumano-Jinja Shrine

El Inn Kyoto

New Miyako Hotel

Hotel Keihan Kyoto Grande

k Tofu

uji

Aeon Mall

Toji Sakura Terrace

Kujo

Oji

KYOTO Central

Marutamachi

B

A

Jingu-Marutamachi

Maps & Info

5

Zuirinji Temple

5

Kyoto Terrsa

Tofukuji Temple

Kyoto Brewing Co. A

48

B

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

C

Komyoin

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Grand Prince Hotel Kyoto

Entsu-ji Temple Kamigamo Shrine

C

ICC Kyoto

L i ne

Ota Shrine

uma

Jinko-in Temple

Su bw ay Ka ras

og m Ka

r ve Ri Dori Street

Na

Shimogamo-Jinja

Daishougun Hachi Shrine Aisen-ji Temple

Kyoto Brighton Hotel

Kyoto Imperial Palace B

A

Hankyu Kyoto Line

Eggs ‘n Things

H&M

treet

Police Box Pontocho Park

Hotel Ponto

B

uto uL ine

Shinmonso

river kawa Shira Jam Hostel

Tatsumi Bridge

Gion Kaikan Kyoto Modern Art Museum

Shijo-dori

Kawaramachi

Marui Kyoto

Shoenji Temple

A

Sanjo

Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater Keihan Main Line

Tosa-Inari Shrine (Misaki-jinja)

McDonald’s Takashimaya Department Store Kyoto Daijingu Shrine

Daishogun Shrine

C

Minamiza Theater Hanamiko ji-dori

Junkudo

Shijo

Karasuma Hotel

VOU Art Gallery

Kyoto BAL

Owls Forest Ninja Kyoto Kyoto Kawaramachi OPA Zara

Higashiyama 1

Sanjo

Kitsune Kyoto UrBANGUILD

Gion-S hijo

Karasuma Oike

Tokyu Hands

Kyoto Muse

Ogawa Coffee

Nishiki-tenmangu Shrine Super Hotel

Nishiki Market

Daimaru Kyoto

Hozo Temple

Starbucks

HUB

Kamogawa Riv er

Sugi Drug Shinkyogoku

Kyoto City Tourism Association Visitor Information Hana Hotel

Qu'il Fait Bon

Kiyamachi-dori

Papa Jon's Cafe Rokkaku

McDonald’s

Karasuma

Royal Park Hotel

Sanjo-dori Movix Kyoto Loft Kyoto Game Frank's Panic Chop Shop Seiganji Temple

Inoda Coffee

Ippudo Nishikikouji

Kyoto High School

Yoboji Temple

Honnoji Temple

Cafe Kocsi

Kyonoyado Kaginei

Cocon Karasuma

D

Kyotoshiyakusho-mae

Kyoto Art Center

2

Anraku-ji, and Reikan-ji D

Hiragiya

The Museum of Kyoto

Kyoto Municipal Gender Equality Center Misayama Park

Koiyama

Hounen-in Temple

Tetsugaku-no-michi (Philosopher's Path)

C

Kyoto Hotel Okura

Smart Coffee

Rokkakudo Temple

Higashiyama Jisho-ji (Ginkaku-ji)

Yoshida-jinja Shrine

Comme des Garcons Tozai Line

Hotel Gimmond

Nakagyo Post Office

2

Yasaka Shrine

2

Kanji Museum

Hotel Sunline Gion Corner

D

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

49

KYOTO Sanjo

Shimadai Gallery

Kyoto University of Art & Design

C

Hotel Sugicho

Hearton Hotel

Konpuku-ji Temple

Hyakumanben Chion-ji Temple

B

A

Hotel Monterey Kyoto

Imadegawa Dori Street

Higashi Oji Dori S

Stay SAKURA Kyoto Nishijin

Randen Railw ays Kitano Line

Guesthouse KirinYa Kamogawa River

Horikawa Dori Street

Demachiyanagi Sta. Imadegawa Sta.

Hachidai-Jinja Shrine

Shirakawa Dori Street

ori

et

Falafel Garden

Shokoku-ji Temple

Kitano Tenmangu

1

Mototanaka Sta.

Pontocho

ori Str eet

hi D Kawai-Jinja Shrine

Stre

Oji D

Chayama Sta.

Nis

Dori

Nishi

mo

bon

Kurama-guchi Sta.

Enkou-ji Temple

Shisen-do Temple

an O

Hotel Avanshell Kyoto

oga

S en

Hirano-Jinja Shrine

Kyoto International Manga Musuem

Ichijo-ji Sta.

Kita Oji Dori Street

m Shi

Kinkaku-ji

Manshu-in Monzeki Temple

Keih

Kitaouji Sta. Daitoku-ji

Koutou-in Temple

ark aP ath gaw iP mo rag Ka

Imamiya Dori Street

Saginomori Shrine

Kyoto Botanical Garden

ka

Imamiya Shrine

Kinugasa Joshu-ji Temple

Shugaku-in Sta.

Kyoto Concert Hall

1 Rinkyuji Temple

Kitayama Dori S tre et

Matsugasaki Sta.

Kitayama Sta.

Saginomori Imperial Villa

Myoen-ji

Ta ka no Ri ve r

Kitayama

Sekizanzen-in Temple

Yusen-ji

a aw

1 Genko-an Temple

Kitano Hakubaicho Sta.

Takaragaike Sta.

Takaragaike Park

Josho-ji Temple

2

D Line entetsu Eizan D Miyake-Hachiman Sta.

Renge-ji Temple Kokusaikaikan Sta.

KYOTO North

B

A

B

A

C

D

Kitano Museum

Kobe YWCA

Kitanoseiryu Shrine

Hotel Piena Kobe

1

KITANO-CHO Kitanosaka Hosp.

Fudo z

Shiei Yamate subway line

Suwayama Park

Kobe Grocers

k oza

a

The Rock 2F

n Kita

t ee Str arl Pe Kobe Kobe Womens Mosque Junior College Kobe Meister Garden

ak terz Hun

a

ori

-d oto

am

Yam

1

1F Bistrot Cafe De Paris

aka

Migration Museum

d Roa Tor

St. Michael’s International School

2

nn

om

iya

JR

Shinko High School

Sa nn om iya

2

Sansei Hosp.

Sun City en The Harbour NHK 7F Junkudo ns Ikuta Police ka Tavern 7F e t Ikuta jinja Station OS Cinemas ma Midnight Ya Kobe Mint Kobe Hotel Monte Halal Food 5F Hermana Kobe Amalie Tokyu Tower Mickey’s Chicken REI Hotel Iznt Records ya Club 5F George mi 4F o nn Sa Tokyu Hotel iya Hotel Hands Monterey nom Tor Road San 4F Oriental SOGO Dept.

Varit Dental the b kobe 5F Kinokuniya Don Clinic Ali’s Quijote Kobe Kokusai Kitchen Kaikan Troopcafe 3F San Marui 1F HSBC e2 Plaza Village ut Vangard Ro Kobe Kokusai Center o Center Shochiku Plaza East ud Plaza ets t u t.

West ok iya ae s os nom eim Junkudo ek Sannomiya Sannadok ob a K Cine Phoenix H Palmore e Hosp. lin Kowka Holiday Inn Express Guild hin 4F ns 2F Ha Aoyama Candeo Kobe Ikuta Hotel Kobe Junior High a.

Minato Kobe City hi School i st Bank yuc e ach Hall Kobe yor uma tom k o i r u h y ma M Plaza c K a i JR Hotel Da tom Cine Libre Kobe Mo Kobe Doll Museum Mitsui Daimaru Sumitomo Dept.

Bank Higashiyuenchi Park Tokyu Oriental REI Hotel Hotel Raja Indian Kobe Luminarie Restaurant Municipal e Museum n lin a ig Ka way Sub Sa

APA Hotel

Sa

nn

om

iya

Kobe Elementary School

Daiwa Roynet Hotel

t Por

r

u ka

chi

line

San

Soraku Park

nd.

Hyogo-ken Prefectural Hall

3

Isogami Park KRAC

eki

o M Han ain aku m Li a ne

7F Kobe Legal Partners

hi

4

KIITO

in

ch J i R

To k

at om ot om

ac

aid

ter cen

4

Hotel Sunroute Sopra 3

Bo

ad

r ro

we Flo

NANKIN-MACHI

Hanakuma Park

i-m

oto

ma

M

Cafe Fish!

Nis h

KOBE Sannomiya

Maps & Info

SHINKO-CHO

Hotel Okura Kobe

Hotel La Suite Kobe Harborland

Kobe Maritime Museum Jumbo Ferry Terminal

5

Meriken park

Arthur Murray CULMENI 3F

Kobe Harborland umie

OS Cinema Harborland

A

50

5

Kobe Minato Onsen Ren

Kobe Cruise Luminous Kobe 2

umie MOSAIC

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental

B

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

C

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

NARA Overview

Kizu River Yamada Sta. Ke i

Nishi-Kizu Sta.

YAGYU AREA

Kizu Sta.

YAGYU AREA

Jubei s cedar

na wa

Bus Stop

E

xp

re s

Takanohara Sta.

sw

ay

KYOTO

Ama-no-Ishitate Shrine

YAGYU-CHO The main house of Yagyu Houtoku-ji Temple

Ofuji s Well

Narayama Sta. Mausoleums Heijo Sta. Nara-Okuyama Driveway YamatoSaidaiji Sta.

Ima-gawa Stream

NARA

Masakizaka Kendo & Zen Dojyo

Ruin of Mausoleum Enjo-ji Temple

Heijō Palace remains

Yasaka Shrine

Yagyu Kaido Trail Mt. Yoshino

Nara Sta.

Ruin of The House of Yagyu

JR Nara Sta.

Iris garden

CENTRAL NARA

Touge Chaya Jigoku-dani Sekkutsu-butsu

Yuhi-kannon

Nakamura 6 Jizos Housou Jizo

Kubikiri Jizo Asahi-kannon

Kujo Sta.

B

C Chisoku-In

Tengaimon gate of Todaiji

ve

r

HIGASHI SASABOKO-CHO

Sa

ho

Ri

1

D

Shosoin Main Warehouse

West Treasures Warehouse

East Treasures Warehouse

Ryu-shou-In

Imperial Household Agency Shosoin Office

NISHI SASABOKO-CHO

1 Todaiji Nigatsudo

Ruin of Yakemon (Chumon) the gate of Todaiji Nara Women’s University

Todai-ji Karakuni Shrine (Tengu Shrine)

Hotel Tamar

Todaiji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo)

OSHIAGE-CHO YURUGI-CHO

SHUKUIN-CHO

Ruin of Saidaimon the gate of Todaiji

Guesthouse Nara Backpackers

NOBORIOJI-CHO

Nara Prefectural Museum

SUIMON-CHO

Mt. Wakakusa

Oak Hostel Nara Nara Prefectural Office

Nandaimon Gate of Todaiji

Himuro Shrine

Hall of Kofuku-ji “Chu-kon-do”

Hoku’endo

The Fifty-Two Steps

Tourist Info Center

(luggage storage & delivery service)

Sarusawa Pond

Yoshidaya

GANRININ-CHO

Nara Pickle Shop

2

Musashino

Nara Kasugano Int’l Forum Mizuya Shrine

Nara National Museum New Wings

Five Storied Pagoda

Nan’endo

Matsunoya

Kofuku-ji Main Hall

Kozen-in

(2F)

LAMP BAR

Mont-bell

Yume-Kaze Plaza Shops & Cafes

Nara National Museum

“Tou-kon-do” LBK Craft

Int’l Forum IRAKA Annex

Yoshiki-en

Kintetsu line Nara Sta.

Tourist Info Center

NARA PARK

Todaiji Museum

Isuien Neiraku Museum

NAKASUJI-CHO 2

Tamukeyama Hachimangu Kagami-Ike Pond

Kikusuiro

Shikitei Hotel Pagoda

Hitokotonushi Shrine Kasuga-taisha

Edosan Inn

Tsubomiwa Shrine

Aoba Chaya

Roku-en

Enso Bairin Tei

Wakamiya Shrine

IKENO-CHO

Ara Pond

Nara Hotel

Ukimido Pavilion Kinryu Shrine

3

3

Yuga Shrine

Kii Shrine

Meishou Kyu-Daijoin Teien Former Residnece of Naoya Shiga (novelist)

Gango-ji Gokuraku-bo

Hotel Wellness Asukaji Kuuki Cake Shop

Zutou Pyramid A

Jurin-in Temple

B

Yagyu Kaido Trail C

Kantoku Temple Fukuu-in D

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

51

NARA Central

A

WEST Japan

Maps & Info B

A

C

D

E

KANSAI 1 TOKYO

Kyoto Shiga

Hyogo Osaka

Mie Nara

Wakayama

Tot Tottor Yonago

Mt. Daisen

Izumo-taisha Shrine Izumo

TOTTORI

2

SHIMANE

OKAYAMA

3

HIROSHIMA

Shin Kurashiki

Mihara

Hiroshima

YAMAGUCHI

Kurashiki Fukuyama

Shou Islan

Shin Onomichi

Seto Ohashi

Onomichi

Hiroshima

Shin Iwakuni

Naoshima Art Island

Angel Road

Itsukushima-jinja Shrine Takamatsu

Yamaguchi

KAGAWA

Tokuyama

4

Korakuen Garden Okayama

Fukuyama Higashi Hiroshima

Okayama

Shin Yamaguchi Imabari

TO Matsuyama

EHIME

5

KOCHI Kochi

A

52

B

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

C

D

E

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more G

H Dinosaur Museum

Ho kk aid o

F

I Katsuyama

To Ni ga ta

&

Fukui

FUKUI

1

Gujo

Tsuruga

Maizuru

ttori Sand Dunes ri

Mikata-goko Five Lakes Cycling Course

Obama

Takahama

GIFU

Kinosaki Maibara

Mt. Hyonosen

Gifu Hashima

2

Lake Biwa Hikone-jo Castle

KYOTO

Tamba

Oumihachiman

Enryaku-ji Temple

HYOGO

Sasayama

aid

Mt. Hiei

Kyoto

k To

Otsu

Kyoto

Himeji

Ako

Nagoya

SHIGA

AICHI

Mikawa Anjo

Koga

Fushimi Inari Aioi

Nagoya

n

se

an

ink

h oS

Kinkaku-ji

Uji Himeji-jo Castle Sa ny oS hin ka ns en

Suzuka Circuit

Arima Iga

Mt. Rokko

Shin Osaka

Shin Kobe

Kobe Nishi Akashi

udo nd

3

Toudai-ji Temple

Osaka

Akashi Ohashi

Nara

Sakai

Kansai International Airport

Awaji

Tsu

Osaka-jo Castle

Toba Aquarium

OSAKA

MIE

Ise Ise Grand Shrine

NARA

Awaji Island

Yoshino Naruto Ohashi

Wakayama

Sumoto

Shionoha Odaigahara

Naruto

Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)

Mt. Koya

4 Mt. Shakagatake Mt. Obako

Tokushima

WAKAYAMA

OKUSHIMA

Kumano

Hongu

Bridges

Kumanohongu Shrine

Ferries Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail

Shingu

Tanabe

Mt. Nachi

Kumano Kodo Trail

Shirahama Nachi Falls

5

Ninja Village

Nachikatsuura

Hot Springs Kushimoto

Ski Spots Beaches

F

G

H

I

Kansai Scene | SUMMER 2019 | kansaiscene.com

53

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