Kansai Scene 221: Spring 2019

SPRING

MAR–MAY 2019 No. 221

Free

WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE

Spring Sensations Cherry blossoms, green tea, fishing, and sumo

Plus

Inside…

Explore

A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND IN OSAKA

Sights

BEST SPOTS FOR A HANAMI PINIC

Food & Drink

GROWING PREMIUM GREEN TEA IN UJI

Discover

WAKAYAMA’S TRADITIONAL FISHING ROD ARTISANS

WHAT’S ON EAT & DRINK SIGHTSEEING MAPS

Discover Hiroshima’s Scenic Beauty in Akiota-cho

YOICHI SHIDAREZAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOM A stunning 12m tall weeping cherry sitting atop a small hillock is lit up during its brief, but spectacular spring bloom OSORAKAN SNOW PARK

Breathtaking views, fabulous hiking, exciting snow sports and relaxing hot spring accommodation await

Japan’s southernmost ski resort, offering long runs for all levels of skiers and snowboarders, as well as snow trekking and igloo building

SANDANKYO GORGE A stunning 13km river gorge, awarded 3 stars by the French travel guide Blue Guide and selected as one of the top 100 scenic beauty spots in Japan

INI TANADA Picture-perfect terraced paddy fields, offering stunning photo opportunities year-round

Nukui Springs Hotel Offers traditional outdoor hot spring baths overlooking Lake Ryuki in Hiroshima’s Akiota-cho. Relax in comfortable western style or Japanese tatami mat rooms and enjoy our award-winning French dining.

Akiota-cho

Okayama

Himeji

Kyoto Osaka Kobe

Hiroshima

Address: 4692-7, Kake, Akiotacho, Yamgatagun, Hiroshima 731-3501, Japan Tel: +81 (0)826-22-1200 Access: 1 hour by car from Hiroshima IC

RESERVATIONS

www.nukui-sp.com

CONTENTS

Spring

18

Mar /Apr /May

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10

08

16

Chasing Cherry Blossoms

Gone Fishing!

Where to go for the ultimate hanami cherryblossom picnic.

CELIA POLKINGHORNE

09 Sumo’s Back for Spring JOHN GUNNING Osaka could be in for its most exciting sumo tournament in years.

18 A Perfect Long Weekend in Osaka How to make the most of the city in just a few short days.

10 Frolicking in the Tea Fields of Uji ASHLEY OWEN Green tea is the lifeblood pulsing through the veins of this rural corner of Kyoto.

15 Be a Shrine Maiden for a Day Suita City’s Takahama Shrine is offering a cosplay experience with a difference.



Meet the Wakayama artisans crafting handmade fishing rods for Japanese traditional sport fishing.

26 Spring Getaway LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA Explore the charming seaside city of Atami, the gateway to the Izu Peninsula.

47 French Dining with an Osaka Twist

KANSAI FINDER

32 Events & Festivals

36 Sights & Attractions

38 Art & Exhibitions

40 Live Music

42 Clubs & Nightlife

44 Food & Drink

48 Getting Around / Maps

Maître Renard serves fancy French cuisine with a nod to Osaka.

What’s On Guide

ON THE COVER: HIMEJI CASTLE CHERRY BLOSSOMS, ISTOCK.COM/SEANPAVONEPHOTO THIS PAGE: WAZUKA TEA FIELDS, OBUBU TEA; YAMABIKO SHIZUKI, JASON HAIDAR; OKONOMIYAKI, JASON HAIDAR

Features

AND MUCH MORE… CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

ABOUT KANSAI SCENE KANSAI SCENE PROVIDES ENGLISHLANGUAGE ARTICLES, INFORMATION AND LISTINGS FOR VISITORS AND RESIDENTS OF THE KANSAI AREA. KANSAI SCENE IS PUBLISHED BY MOJOWORKS KK, WITH SUPPORT FROM CB, LTD. Publisher................................Daniel Lee Managing Editor.......Celia Polkinghorne Editor................................. Jason Haidar Art Director............................Daniel Lee Production........................Mojoworks KK Listings Contributors Art.................................... Brooke Larsen Cinema.............................. Miyoko Morita Events..................................Tomoko Ishii Live Music....................... Phillip Jackson Club.................................. Saiko Fujiwara ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES CB, Ltd Email................ sales@kansaiscene.com Tel......................................03-6260-9125

E

ach time spring rolls around in Kansai, I find myself staring in awe at my surroundings.

Budding cherry trees burst into full bloom, larger-than-life sumo wrestlers lumber onto trains, and Pikachu, Super Mario, and all the other favorite anime, manga, and video-game characters take over the streets to pose for pictures with their adoring fans during the Nippombashi Street Festa (happening this year on March 9). Of course, you don’t have to be a cosplayer or an otaku (culture nerd) to enjoy this spectacle – grab your camera and head over to Den Den Town to experience one of the most quirky and colorful festivals in the country. As usual, tickets for Osaka’s spring grand sumo tournament (p. 9) sold out

as soon as online sales opened, but there is still a slim possibility of snapping up a spot to see the wrestlers; a limited number of unreserved seats are available each morning on the gate at around 8 a.m. This issue, we take you to the green-tea-growing region of Uji in Kyoto Prefecture for a wander through the tea fields (p. 10), and for a getaway outside of Kansai, we’re exploring the Atami region of Shizuoka Prefecture. Last but not least, having finally emerged from the depths of winter, cherry trees are about to blossom and hanami season is just around the corner. Check out our page 8 recommendations for some picturesque sakura picnic locations.

We hope you have a wonderful spring season.

CELIA POLKINGHORNE editor@ kansaiscene.com

GENERAL ENQUIRIES General ....... mailbox@kansaiscene.com Editorial.......... editor@kansaiscene.com Tel. .....................................06-6539-1717 Fax. ....................................06-7635-4791 Address.................. Osaka-shi, Nishi-ku, .....................................Shinmachi 3-5-7, ............................................Eiko Bldg. 2F ..........................................Mojoworks KK Website........................kansaiscene.com

STREET PARTY COLORFUL COSPLAYERS FILL THE NIPPOMBASHI STREETS ON MAR 9

WRITE FOR KANSAI SCENE If you would like to write for KS, please contact editor@kansaiscene.com after reviewing our writers’ guidelines: kansaiscene.com/write-for-us

PHOTO: JASON HAIDAR

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Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

5

CALENDAR

Seasonal Highlights

ABOVE:PERFORMERS ATTEMPT A DARING TIGHTROPE LION DANCE

THE ELEGANT MIFUNE FESTIVAL IN ARASHIYAMA

Mar MAR 9

NIPPOMBASHI STREET FESTA Osaka Don’t forget your camera, as 1000s of cosplayers take to the streets in Nippombashi’s denden town in this annual parade. See p.33 for details.

MAR 16 & 17

SAGICHO FESTIVAL Shiga In this centuries-old religious festival, spectacular sagicho floats are are crashed together in a fighting ritual and are set ablaze at the end of the ceremony. See p.33 for details.

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MAR 8–17

MAR 14, 15 & APR 3

OSAKA ASIAN FILM FESTIVAL 2019

SEIRYU-E – BLUE DRAGON PARADE

Osaka Now in its 14th year, this festival presents carefully selected films from 17 different regions in Asia.

Screenings in various locations in Osaka. See p.33 for details.

Kyoto A colorful dance and procession through the neighborhood of Kiyomizu-dera temple lead by an 18-meter dragon. See p.32 for details.

MAR 30

MAR 10–24

MARCH GRAND SUMO TOURNAMENT Osaka Osaka hosts the annual Haru Basho Spring Grand Sumo Tournament where the world’s best sumo wrestlers gather and compete. See p.9 for details.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

BUJIN SAI – DEMONFIGHTING FESTIVAL Hyogo Watch a spectacular dance from five colorful bujin ogres as part of a festival that commemorates a local legend. See p.32 for details.

Apr APR 8

TIGHTROPE LION DANCE Hyogo Performers bravely dance on a tightrope crossing a 10-meter valley as part of Isenomori-jinja’s annual festival on Awaji Island. See p.33 for details.

APR 13–16

NAGAHAMA HIKIYAMA FESTIVAL Shiga Children perform traditional kabuki plays atop lavishly decorated hikiyama floats. See p.33 for details.

BELOW: COSPLAYERS GATHER IN DROVES AT OSAKA’S ANNUAL STREET FESTA

LEFT: CHILDREN PERFORM KABUKI AT THE NAGAHAMA HIKIYAMA FESTIVAL IN SHIGA BOTTOM LEFT: TEAMS COMPETE AT THE WAKAYMA SAND SCULPTURE CONTEST BOTTOM RIGHT: THE ANCIENT BALL GAME KEMARI ON DISPLAY IN NARA

APR 29

MAY 5

MAY 20

UNTIL MAY 12

KEMARI FESTIVAL

KAKEUMA SHINJI

MIFUNE FESTIVAL

Nara Monks reenact the elegant ball game of kemari, popular among courtesans in early Japanese history. See p.33 for details.

Kyoto Daring riders show off their acrobatic riding finesse along a 200-meter track as part of a five-day festival at Fujinomorijinja shrine. See p.34 for details.

Kyoto Elegant courtiers perform traditional dances, music and poetry aboard three beautiful boats floating down the river in Arashiyama. See p.34 for details.

MAKING THE DIFFERENCE: VERMEER AND DUTCH ART

MAY 15

MAY 26

AOI MATSURI FESTIVAL

SAND SCULPTURE CONTEST

Kyoto One of the oldest festivals in Japan, the Aoi Matsuri features a magnificent procession of over 500 people dressed in Heian period costume. See p.35 for details.

Wakayama Amateur teams compete to create gigantic sand sculptures on Wakayama’s picturesque Shirahama beach.

May MAY 2

EMPEROR SHOMU MEMORIAL SERVICE Nara A Buddhist service for the Emperor Shomu who erected the statue of the Great Buddha, Daibutsu in Todai-ji temple. The highlight is a parade of around 300 people in period costume. See p.35 for details.

Osaka A chance to view six original Vermeer paintings including The Procuress, on display at the Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts in Tennoji.

See p.29 for details.

LOOKING FOR MORE THINGS TO DO? COMPLETE EVENT LISTINGS CAN BE FOUND ONLINE AT KANSAIFINDER. COM

TIME: All day • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Kinokuni line, Shirahama Stn, bus to Shirahama • nankishirahama.com

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

7

DISCOVER It is impossible to imagine spring in Japan without the iconic image of a sea of cherry trees awash with abundant pink blossoms.

Artists paint them, poets swoon over them, and sightseers snap selfies with them for their insta-bae qualities (a Japanese buzzword meaning “looking good on Instagram”). If you’re lucky enough to be in Kansai when the sakura trees bloom, here are six spots to savor them with a cherry-blossom picnic.

Spring into Hanami Season Six sakura spots to spread out a rug and picnic until sundown.

TEXT: KS

1 YOSHINO, NARA PREFECTURE

If there’s one ultimate Kansai cherry-blossom experience, it’s got to be at Yoshinoyama. Legend has it this is the birthplace of cherry blossoms in Japan. It is said that the original trees were planted here around 1,300 years ago, and today over 30,000 trees span a crosssection of varieties covering the mountain slopes and peaks. Visitors flock to the four groves leading up Mount Yoshino. The highest grove, Oku-senbon, lies 800m up the mountain trail. yoshinoyama-sakura.jp/english

KEMA SAKURANOMIYA PARK, OSAKA

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ENRYAKUJI TEMPLE, SHIGA

SATSUKIYAMA PARK, IKEDA

SAKURAI, NARA

PHILOSOPHER’S WALK, KYOTO

One of the most famous sites for cherry-blossom gazing in Japan, the Kema Sakuranomiya Park is filled with close to 5,000 sakura trees which burst into pale pink blossoms during the spring—perfect for a hanami picnic, or a leisurely stroll.

Founded in 788 and now the headquarters of the Tendai Buddhism sect, this monastery has a captivatingly gory past.

Take the pleasant walk through the hilly, pink forests of its three areas: Todo, Saito, and Yokawa to see the historical buildings and discover the mystery for yourself.

Miles into the countryside and abundant with sakura trees, this lesser-known location is a treat for the senses. The river that snakes through the town has steps leading down to it at some points, making it ideal for spreading a blanket and eating a picnic lunch.

osaka-info.jp/en/page/kemasakuranomiya-park

visitkansai.com/sightseeing/ hieizan-enryakuji

Sprawling up the side of Mount Satsuki, Satsukiyama Park boasts five hiking trails with commanding views of the Osaka Plain. However, if you prefer to take a more relaxed approach to cherry blossom viewing, the park also houses a free botanical garden and petting zoo that are open for most of the day.

Wander in the footsteps of influential 20thcentury philosopher Nishido Kitaro as you follow the path he walked for daily meditation.

The stone thoroughfare weaves along a canal for 1.7 miles through Kyoto’s Higashiyama district and is lined with hundreds of sakura trees that blossom with color every April.

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Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

osaka-info.jp/en/page/ satsukiyama-park

visitnara.jp/destinations/area/ sakurai

everytrail.com/guide/thephilosopher-s-walk-in-kyoto

PHOTO: YOSHINO, ISTOCK.COM/SEANPAVONEPHOTO

2

WHAT’S ON

Mar 10–24

THE WRESTLERS ARE BACK IN TOWN Japan’s national sport returns to Osaka for the Spring Grand Sumo Tournament.

TEXT: JOHN GUNNING

PHOTO: JOHN GUNNING

R

unning from March 10th to 25th at Edion Arena (Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium) in Namba, the Haru Basho is the only one of the six yearly sumo tournaments to be held in Kansai.

Unlike in years gone by, there is no clear and obvious favorite heading into this year’s meet. After more than a decade of dominance by Hakuho, sumo is going through a period of flux with no clear successor to the Mongolian yokozuna (grand champion) in sight.

The last seven tournaments have been won by six different wrestlers, with yokozuna Kakuryu being the only man to lift the Emperor’s Cup more than once since the start of 2018.

Takatoriki’s championship in 2000 was the last time Osaka saw a genuinely surprising winner, but that 19year streak of yokozuna and ozeki (sumo’s second-highest rank) taking home the silverware in Kansai could well end next month.

Three of the last four tournaments have been won by wrestlers from outside of sumo’s top two ranks and all saw first-time champions emerge as well.

There are several other wrestlers within striking distance of a title, all of which means that Osaka should be in for the most exciting tournament in years.

As has been the case with all recent tournaments, the event is sold out but you can still get your hands on tickets through resellers – although at a markup and with limited choice.

About 200 or so same-day tickets are also available at the arena, but to get those you’ll have to line up early

2019 Grand Sumo Spring Tournament OSAKA WHEN: March 10–24 (8am

to 6pm Daily) • WHERE: Edion Arena Namba (Osaka Prefectural Gym) • TICKETS: Range in price from ¥2,100 to ¥14,800. Around 200 sameday tickets are available at the arena on a one-ticket-perperson basis. To get those you need to line up early in the morning.

in the morning and it’s strictly one ticket per person.

Only the seats furthest back are part of that sale.

If you didn’t get tickets, there are other opportunities to watch sumo from late February locally. That’s when most stables move down to the Kansai region in preparation for the tournament. Many use shrines and temples as temporary lodging quarters, which means the practice rings are often outside in the open air. Anyone visiting one of these temples early in the morning will be able to watch sumo training without needing a connection to the stable or having to make an appointment.

Beware of ‘sumo tours’ changing people anything from ¥9,000 to ¥14,000 per person to watch these training sessions. The majority of them do nothing more than meet you nearby and take you to watch a session you could have seen yourself for free. They have no association with the stables. None of the money goes to the wrestlers and they annoy stables to such an extent it’s possible they would bar all visitors from watching practice.

If you make it to the tournament itself and it’s your first time, consider going early in the morning to see the younger wrestlers fight in an almost empty arena, head out for lunch, then return to watch the stars perform in front of a raucous packed house later on.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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FEATURE

UJI’S GREEN TEA

Heritage

Venture into the fields of Uji to experience the very best of Japanese green tea.

TEXT: ASHLEY OWEN

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Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

PHOTOS: OPPOSITE, FRESHLY PICKED LEAVES, OBUBU TEA; MATCHA CHOCOLATE, NAKAMURA TOKICHI; STORE ENRANCE, NAKAMURA TOKICHI; UJI STREET, ISTOCK.COM/NONCHANON

“Without tea, Uji would not exist.”

These are the passionate words of Shogo Nakamura, Executive Director of the flagship Nakamura Tokichi tea house in the center of Uji City, just south of Kyoto. And he’s right—a short walk around this unassuming locale is enough to reveal that green tea is indeed the lifeblood that pulses through its veins, from the charming tea houses overlooking the river to the abundance of tea shops lining its narrow streets.

Uji’s tea history dates back around 800 years, and the city is a key producer of three main varieties of Japanese green tea: sencha, which is an everyday green tea; tencha, the tea leaves which are ground up and used to make matcha powdered tea; and gyokuro, the highest grade of green tea in Japan. Both tencha and gyokuro plants are shaded from the sun for a few weeks before harvesting, which reduces the tannin content of the leaves and results in a sweeter, less astringent taste, with distinctive umami notes. The taste is worlds apart from that of your average supermarket green tea bags.

The green tea cultivated in Uji is widely regarded as being the best in the country. According to Nakamura, the reasons for this high quality can be broadly divided into two: the area’s natural climate and its political climate.

“In terms of natural climate,” he elaborates over a warm cup of his tea houses’s own blend of sencha, “the hot and cold seasons are very clearly separated. From March to April is when the new tea leaves start to sprout, and during that time it’s not too hot and not too cold here.” This Goldilocks temperature window combines with soil that’s perfect for growing tea plants, plus just the right amount of sunlight, to create the superior class of green tea cultivated in Uji. But Mother Nature can’t take all the credit. Another big factor in Uji’s superlative tea game is the city’s close proximity to Kyoto, which served as Japan’s capital from 794 until 1868. “The needs of the government officials and their ability to provide support were very strong,” Nakamura explains. It was this coming together of environmental and social factors that really elevated

NAKAMURA TOKICHI’S SIGNATURE MATCHA GREEN TEA CHOCOLATES, JUST ONE OF THE MANY TREATS AVAILABLE IN THEIR IN-HOUSE STORE

LEFT: THE EDO STYLE BUILDING OF NAKAMURA TOKICHI IS TESTAMENT TO UJI’S HISTORIC TRADITION WITH GREEN TEA ABOVE: MANY TRADITIONAL TEA VENDORS AND CAFES AND RESTAURANTS LINE THE STREETS IN UJI

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

11

HOW TO BREW THE PERFECT CUP OF UJI GYOKURO There’s an art to making the perfect cup of tea, and this is especially true for highgrade teas like gyokuro.

Here are Nakamura Tokichi’s recommendations for getting the best out of Uji’s finest quality tea:

2. Put 8–10g of tea leaves into the teapot.

3. Slowly pour in 80–100ml of water at 60ºC. Brewing the tea at a lower temperature brings out the sweetness and umami flavor, with less bitterness and astringency.

4. Allow the tea to brew for 120–150 seconds, without shaking the teapot.

5. Pour the tea into the cups alternately, little by little, until the very last drop. This distributes the tea evenly between the two.

6. For subsequent brews, the waiting time can be reduced.

Tea is best stored in an airtight container, in a cool, dark place.

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Uji’s position and established it as the epicenter of high-grade green tea production in Japan.

In recent years, Uji’s reputation as a mecca for green tea lovers has spread overseas, and the town has opened itself up to tourists eager for a taste. Tea houses such as Nakamura Tokichi are perfect places to start, whether you’re a green tea aficionado or a complete novice. Their resident tea masters will talk you through the process of tea cultivation, explain exactly what makes Uji’s tea so special, and then show you how to brew the perfect cup.

For a more in-depth experience, it’s also possible to take part in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony at most tea houses (advanced reservations may be required). Here, you can learn more about tea etiquette, and even have a go at grinding your own matcha from tencha leaves.

Interspersed with the tea houses you’ll also find numerous cafés and restaurants that have wholeheartedly incorporated tea into their menus.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

You can try green tea soba noodles, green-tea-flavoured ice cream, and traditional Japanese sweets such as warabimochi (a chewy, jelly-like confection made from bracken starch) coated in matcha powder.

Tea may be Uji’s main draw, yet it’s far from being the city’s only attraction.

At the end of Omotesando lies Byodoin Temple, a stunningly beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temple’s most impressive feature is the Phoenix Hall, which stands elegantly on an island in the center of a vast pond. Named for the two phoenix statues on its roof – and the fact that its structure is reminiscent of a bird taking flight – this intricate building was chosen to grace the back of the ¥10 coin, making Byodoin one of the country’s most recognizable temples and a key stop on any Uji itinerary.

Fans of Japanese literature may be familiar with Uji for

COOL DOWN WITH A MATCHA ICE CREAM, AVAILABLE FROM STORES ALL ACROSS THE CITY

PHOTOS: FRESHLY ROLLED GYOKURO TEA, OBUBU TEA; BYODOIN TEMPLE, ISTOCK.COM/SEANPAVONE; MATCHA ICE CREAM, ISTOCK.COM/AAA187

1. Pour boiling water into a small teapot and two cups to warm them, then empty out the water.

THE BEAUTIFUL UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE BYODOIN TEMPLE FEATURES ON THE BACK OF THE 10 YEN COIN

Want to learn more about Japanese tea?

PHOTOS: EXPLORING THE TEA FIELDS IN WAZUKA, OBUBU TEA

LEARN ABOUT THE ENTIRE TEA PRODUCTION PROCESS WITH OBUBU TEA ON THEIR TEA MASTER COURSE

an entirely different reason, however.

The city is the setting for the later chapters of the classic novel The Tale of Genji, written in the 11th century by Murasaki Shikibu, and there is a museum dedicated to the story on the other side of the river from Byodoin. Not far from the museum stands Uji Shrine and Ujigami Jinja, Byodoin’s guardian shrine. The latter is believed to be the oldest standing shrine in the country, dating back to at least the year 1060.

Although Byodoin is by far Uji’s most famous temple, there are a number of other temples worth visiting if you have the time. These include Manpukuji, characterized by its Chinese style of architecture, and Mimurotoji, which is also known as the ‘flower temple’ thanks to its vast and verdant gardens.

Once you’ve toured the temples and surveyed the tea houses to learn about and try the different varieties of Uji’s tea for yourself, head to the bustling Omotesando shopping lane to procure

Find it…

some to take home with you. The multitude of tea shops here also sell tea sets, matcha whisks and all sorts of other tea paraphernalia to help you recreate an authentic tea house atmosphere at home.

So with all this choice, how do you decide which tea you should go for? “The ones that are handpicked, the quality of these is incomparable,” recommends Nakamura. “And May is the season for shincha, the new tea leaves, which you can only enjoy to the fullest at this time of year.”

For people who are new to green tea, however, he suggests that “instead of just picking one and focusing on that, drink many different kinds and compare them. They all have their different qualities, so the best way is to increase your exposure to tea and then from there you can find your own flavor and what you like best.”

And there really is no better place to do so than in Uji.

Nakamura Tokichi Hours: 10am–6pm; tokichi.jp/english • Byodoin Temple Hours: 8:30am– 5:30pm; Admission: ¥600; byodoin.or.jp/en • Tale of Genji Museum Hours: 9am–5pm; Closed Mondays; Admission: ¥500 • Ujigami and Uji Shrines Hours: 9am–4:30pm; Free admission • Manpukuji Temple Hours: 9am–5pm; Admission: ¥500; obakusan.or.jp/en • Mimurotoji Temple Hours: 8:30am–4:30pm; Admission: ¥500; mimurotoji.com

Kyoto Obubu Tea Farm, in the small town of Wazuka, hosts a two-week intensive Tea Master course where you can get hands-on experience of picking, processing and preparing different varieties of Japanese tea.

And if you’re really keen, they also offer a three-month internship program, where you can fully immerse yourself in tea farming and production all the way from leaf to cup.

Find out more at obubutea.com

ACCESS Uji has two main train stations: JR Uji and Keihan Uji. From Kyoto Station, you can take the JR Nara line directly to Uji in approximately 20 minutes. From JR Nara station, it takes around 30 minutes.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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KANSAI INSIDER

On the

DASHI TRAIL

TANAKA AIKO PROFESSOR, AUTHOR, TV PRESENTER AND ALL-ROUND OSAKA FOOD EXPERT

Insider tips from Osaka food guru Aiko Tanaka on preparing and enjoying authentic Osaka-style dashi

A

iko Tanaka has been presenting a cookery programme on domestic broadcaster NHK for the past 20 years. A global traveler, she has written numerous books and articles on cooking and food culture and presented seminars and workshops on food education around the world.

In her latest English-language book Food Studies of Osaka, Tanaka draws upon a lifetime of food studies and practice to present the story of Osaka’s culinary heritage to the world. She includes some of her favorite Japanese recipes as well as her unique sustainable-living philosophy.

Aside from its political history, perhaps central to Osaka’s culinary boom was its unique dashi soup stock, the use of which is ubiquitous within traditional Japanese cooking. Osaka’s dashi is a simple combination of kelp, bonito flakes and water, but whose light, delicate sophistication is unlike any found elsewhere in Japan.

If you are inspired to try it at home, Tanaka provides preparation instructions in her book, as well as some beginner-friendly dishes with which to combine it, such as red miso soup with sea bream and spinach ohitashi.

For those less inclined to experiment in the kitchen, she has some excellent insider dining recommendations for places to savor some authentic dashi-infused dishes.

Located just north of Osaka in the suburb of Toyonaka is the innovative kaiseki-style fine-dining restaurant Toyonaka Sakurae (sakurae.com). Chef Mitsuda Kenji’s twoMichelin-starred establishment attracts din-

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Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

ers from all over the world with its creative fusion of traditional Japanese dining and modern techniques and ingredients.

“Of particular note are his suimono soup dishes, delicately seasoned and perfectly balanced with the umami of the dashi, allowing the natural flavor of the ingredients to shine through.”

Sitting at the eight-seater counter facing an open kitchen, the kaiseki style allows you to truly appreciate the preparation that goes into each beautifully presented dish.

Omakase seasonal courses start from ¥7,020 plus drinks. Booking in advance essential.

Easiest access is by taxi from Hankyu Toyonaka Station.

For the ultimate unadulterated dashi experience, Tanaka suggests Sobaya Kida, whose chic noren curtained exterior stands out in an otherwise residential area of Toyonaka. Its sleek and sophisticated interior provides a relaxing setting from which to enjoy its delicate hand-cut soba noodles, prepared from buckwheat flour, painstakingly milled on site.

“I highly recommend their tempura soba. Served in vivid red lacquered bowls, the locally sourced seasonal vegetables and prawns are delicately battered and fried to perfection, and create a magical harmony with the dashi broth.” Sobaya Kida can be reached by taxi from Midousuji Momoyamadai Station.

Dashi is an essential ingredient in Japanese cooking and provides its elusive umami flavor. Take a moment to savor it.

PHOTOS: AIKO TANAKA, EMI MASUDA; DISHES, SUSUMU MIYAMOTO

TEXT: KS

DASHI DISHESTO TRY TOP: RED MISO SOUP WITH SEA BREAM BELOW: SPINACH OHITASHI

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

BE A SHRINE MAIDEN FOR A DAY Takahama Shrine in north Osaka offers a rare Shinto cosplay experience TEXT: KS

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR; MODEL: KAROLINA DUDZIC

I

t’s not uncommon to see both locals and travelers to Kansai clad in kimono or yukata while visiting a Kyoto temple on a sunny spring day. But have you ever wondered what it would be like to wear the traditional dress of a miko or shrine maiden? For ladies looking for an underthe-radar Japanese experience, Suita City’s Takahama Shrine in the north of Osaka has just the thing.

Japanese Shinto shrine maidens play an important role in daily shrine life, performing rituals like sacred cleansing, ceremonial dances, and offering omikuji fortune telling to visitors. Usually, to become a miko at Takahama Shrine, you have to train for about a year, but for this miko experience, you can be transformed in an afternoon by Hanayagi Yukiaya—the wife of the shrine’s head priest.

First, she does your hair, placing a purple, white, and vermillion noshi hairpiece at the back of the upstyle. Then she wraps you in a white hakue (kimono-style jacket) and ties a layered vermillion skirt called a hibakama around your waist. Vermillion represents the color of the sun, which is highly worshipped in the Shinto religion.

Once dressed, you are guided out to the shrine grounds by gon guji, or secondary priest, Tomoko Okamoto, whose job it is to tutor you in some shrine etiquette and rituals. After several rounds of bell ringing, bowing, clapping, and praying, she brings

you inside to teach you about tamagushi— offerings for the gods. This is where you learn to fold shide—paper shaped like lightning that is tied to sakaki branches to pray for rain and good harvests. Then you pour omiki, or “gods’ sake” in a special ritual called sankon no gi often performed at weddings.

After this, more cosplay fun is yet to come with several additions to the costume. Before entering the main part of the shrine, you will don the seisou or official dress. This involves putting on a chihaya—a special white jacket with long sleeves—and a tenkan, a gold-colored crown with flowers on each side. Wearing this formal dress, you are then introduced to the head priest who will perform a prayer ritual with you and another maiden.

After your rituals are complete and you are bade farewell, don’t miss the opportunity to browse the plethora of one-of-a-kind stores on the shopping streets between Takahama Shrine and JR Suita Station. Treat yourself to a late lunch or early dinner at one of the local eateries serving yakitori (skewered chicken), karaage (fried chicken), and scores of other cheap and cheerful favorites.

Apply for the shrine maiden experience in Japanese on the Takahama Shrine website or in English at www.hi-friends.co.jp.

If you don’t speak Japanese, an English interpreter will be arranged.

Miko Shrine Maiden Experience COST: ¥8,000 for the full ceremonial costume, including a CD of photos and cleaning fee TIME: From 2pm daily DURATION: About 2 hours ACCESS: Takahama Shrine is a 7-10 minute walk from JR Suita Station

takahamajinjya.kir.jp

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Catch and Release

TRADITIONALSPORT FISHING IN WAKAYAMA Osaka Namba Kansai International Airport

Wakayama JR Wakayama Line

Nankai Koya-line

Kakuredani-ike Fishing Pond

Hashimoto Mt. Koya

Wakayama

Wakayama herazao fishing rod craftsmen Hiroyasu Yamaue and Shigeyoshi Yamaue are two big fish in a small pond.

H THE HERABUNA (JAPANESE CRUCIAN CARP) (CARASSIUS CUVIERI) IS A HARD FIGHTING FISH AND PRESENTS A REAL CHALLENGE FOR ANGLERS, HENCE THE SPORTS UNIQUE APPEAL

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ailing from the sleepy town of Hashimoto in Wakayama Prefecture, cousins Hiroyasu Yamaue and Shigeyoshi Yamaue are leading lights in the niche world of herabuna (Japanese crucian carp) fishing. More specifically, these men have dedicated their lives to crafting the highly prized bamboo rods, called herazao, that people require to carry out this curious hobby.

It was around the early 1880s that this style of herabuna fishing first came about, but its popularity has grown immensely in recent years. Niche monthly magazines are published dedicated entirely to this one method of fishing using a long, thin, wand-like rod with no reel. Special man-made lakes with pontoons installed are stocked with the fish, and herabuna fishing enthusiasts sit beside one another in a long line chewing the fat while waiting for their catch.

One such venue is Kakuredani-ike Pond in Wakayama’s Hashimoto region,

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

established by the Kishu Herazao Association as a place for craftsmen to test and perfect their rods, while rubbing shoulders with local anglers.

Herabuna fishing is a type of float fishing using long, delicate floats traditionally made from peacock feathers that sit half submerged in the water.

Barbless hooks can be loaded up with a variety of baits, but most common is a bread-like mash made from fuu (flour gluten) or mashed potato, as the fish in question are vegetarians. The bait dissolves quickly in water attracting the fish while the fishermen wait, watching their floats intently for signs of the slightest nibble. The carp are closely related to the common goldfish and very gently nudge, suck, and nibble at their food in much the same way. Part of the art is being able to feel the delicate bites from a fish before striking at the right moment and landing the fish by hand— without the assistance of a reel.

As one would imagine, such a specific style of fishing requires a very special

PHOTOS: KAKUREDANI-IKE POND, KOYA36 DMO; HERABUNA CARP, KOYA36 DMO

TEXT: CELIA POLKINGHORNE

Herabuna Fishing Experience LEFT: KOMADORI USES TRADITIONAL TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES TO HANDCRAFT HERAZAO BAMBOO RODS (ABOVE).

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

RIGHT: YAMABIKO COMBINES TRADITION WITH MODERN CARBON FIBER MATERIALS

type of rod, something with which to feel even the slightest of tugs on the bait. According to Hiroyasu Yamaue (aka Komadori—his brand name), one of the top rod makers in the world, the craft of bamboo rod making originally started in Osaka, before two apprentices of an Osaka craftsman took it to Hashimoto.

The area has been synonymous with herazao rod-making ever since.

Herazao are long and thin, delicate yet dynamic rods that look like ultraslim pool cues. Combined from perfectly honed sections of Koya bamboo, they are finished with smooth lacquer and strengthened with silk thread, before being painstakingly decorated with detailed motifs. Customers pay upwards of ¥300,000 for a custom-made rod from a top craftsman such as Komadori and can expect to wait about six months to two years for their one-of-a-kind rod to be completed.

Komadori learned the labor-intensive art of traditional rod-making from his father. He started around the age of 18 and has been doing it for 50 years, making roughly 20 bamboo rods every four months. Like many traditional forms of Japanese craftsmanship, however, his art is a dying one. These days it’s tough to find an apprentice who has the inclination to put in the hours of training required to make these rods by hand.

There are 130 separate steps involved in making the rods, and it would take at least five years, and maybe longer, for an

apprentice to become skilled enough to do it on their own.

“Not only that, but there is no one left to make traditional tools,” Komadori explained while in his woodenfloored workshop running a section of bamboo through a shichirin, a small ceramic brazier used to straighten and strengthen the rod. He said the special saws and other implements needed to craft rods in the traditional way can’t be found anymore.

Komadori is a purist, dedicated to making the fishing rods the traditional way using only bamboo. Shigeyoshi Yamaue (aka Yamabiko Shizuki), on the other hand, has gone in a different direction with his rod-making enterprise. Passionate about innovation, his business creates original and custom rods made from a blend of carbon fiber and bamboo.

In the 60s, sport fishing took off in Japan, and carbon rods became popular as they were more robust for fishing competitively and hooking as large a catch as possible. Rather than shun this new technology however, he worked out how to embrace it.

Yamabiko Shizuki crafts rods that are mostly half carbon, half bamboo, but expertly disguised to look just like traditional rods. For a collaborative range of off-the-shelf rods, he teamed up with carbon rodmaker giant Shimano, seamlessly combining carbon sections with traditional bamboo.

The official destination management organization for the region (Koya36 DMO) is organizing an English-language herabuna fishing experience day on March 30th. On this day, visitors can get first-hand instruction and try out this unique style of fishing. It is possible to visit Kakuredani-ike Pond to try the fishing on any other day, but it may be a good idea to bring a Japanese speaker.

When: Mar 30 (Sat), 11am–4pm Where: Nankai Kii-Shimizu Stn Price: Men ¥2,500, women ¥2,000, children (under 16) ¥1,000* Includes: Entry, fishing pole, and bait Reservations: By Mar 22 (Fri) to info@koya36.com *Free if you just want to watch

KAKUREDANI-IKE POND OPEN: 7am–4pm (Sun/Hols entry at any time) • CLOSED: Every Friday (if Fri is a public hol, then closed Thu) • ADDRESS: Shimizu, Hashimoto, Wakayama Prefecture 648-0041

*note that it is not permitted to eat the fish or take them home - they must be thrown back

Yamabiko has been honing his craft since he was about 15. His son is now his apprentice, and his grandson is set to follow in their footsteps. Ever the innovator, he also makes fly fishing rods with his unique bamboo-carbon product and aspires to make a walking stick for the queen.

While the pure, traditional, bambooonly craft is slowly dying out, demand is still strong for artisan herazao fishing rods, especially from the Asian market.

Yamabiko says that perhaps 50 percent of his rods go to Asian buyers. It seems there is plenty of fight left in this unique Japanese pastime yet.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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With English Support!

Fruit picking calendar

Osaka

Strawberry picking

Namba Kansai International Airport

FRUIT PICKING

Wakayama JR Wakayama Line

Nankai Koya-line

Fruit Kingdom Katsuragi-cho

Hashimoto Mt. Koya

Wakayama

in ‘Fruit Kingdom’ Katsuragi-cho, Wakayama

I

n the foothills of the ancient Mt. Koya in Wakayama lies the rural district of Katsuragi-cho, an area that produces such an astonishing variety and quantity of fruit that it is known as the Fruit Kingdom, with many of its bountiful orchards open to the public for fruit-picking day trips.

A fun experience for all ages, fruit-picking gets you out of the city, up close to nature, and lets you fill up on delicious freshly picked seasonal fruits.

Most fruit farms do not speak English however, but make a reservation in advance with KOYASANROKU DMO* and you will be greeted with an English-speaking guide on the day.

RESERVATIONS VIA KOYASANROKU DMO:

info@koya36.com * Official Destination Management Organization of the Koya Region

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When: March–April Price: Elementary school and above: ¥1,500; 4–5 yrs ¥1,000; under 3 yrs free.

Includes: Eat as many strawberries as you like for 30 mins. Additional fees for take home.

Where: Murata Orchard Address: 1401 Saya, Katsuragi-cho, Wakayama Access: JR Kaseda Stn, 15-min walk

Peach picking When: July Price: All ages ¥1,800 Includes: As many pre-picked ripe peaches as you can eat, plus two you can pick yourself to take home.

Where: Sakaguchi Orchard Address: 433 Senoyama, Katsuragi-cho, Wakayama Access: JR Nishi-Kaseda Stn, 10-min walk

Persimmon picking When: Mid-October–November Price: Junior-high school and above ¥700; Elementary school and under ¥500 Includes: Eat as many persimmons as you like.

Additional fees for take home.

Where: Sakaguchi Orchard Address: 433 Senoyama, Katsuragi-cho, Wakayama Access: JR Nishi-Kaseda Stn, 10-min walk

PHOTOS: KOYASANROKU DMO

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

EXPLORE

A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND

in Osaka

PHOTO: SHINSEKAI, JASON HAIDAR

Discover Kansai’s most vibrant metropolis inhabited by famously laid-back citizens with a penchant for the good things in life.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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ABOVE: PLAY RETRO PINBALL GAMES AT SILVER BALL PLANET INSIDE THE BIGSTEP BUILDING IN AMEMURA

W

andering down twisting neon-lit alleys and buzzing canal sides is one of the many pleasures of exploring Osaka City. Add to that the endless tasty food options and out-there shopping experiences, and suddenly just a day or two in this unique pocket of Japan doesn’t feel like enough. Make the most of your time in Osaka with our recommendations for a fun-filled long weekend in the nation’s friendliest city.

Day 1

for vintage, and check out Fugs for items at the bizarre end of the used vintage world.

Start the day with a coffee in Horie

Play pinball on retro machines

Some of Osaka’s best coffee can be found in Horie, Shinsaibashi. Boutique coffee houses Mel Coffee Roasters and Lilo Coffee Roasters pour fresh iced or steaming brews in a cozy urban setting.

Prepare yourself for a wave of nostalgia as you step into the pinball hall of fame that is Silver Ball Planet. Play on machines with classic themes like Indiana Jones, Terminator 2, Batman, and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles in one of the biggest pinball arcades outside the U.S.

Shop for offbeat and trendy fashions in Amemura America Village, known as ‘Amemura,’ is teeming with one-of-a-kind clothing boutiques stocking an array of eclectic street fashion: punk, goth, skater-style, and Rasta-style as well as designer vintage and urban chic. Kinji in the Bigstep building is a great place to start

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Eat Osaka’s favorite street food takoyaki Hit popular takoyaki haunts like Kogaryu Takoyaki or Donaiya America-mura to try these balls of batter cooked with bite-sized chunks of octopus.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

LEFT: OKONOMIYAKI SMOTHERED IN MAYONNAISE AND TOPPED WITH BONITO FLAKES AND NORI SEAWEED

TAKOYAKI OSAKA’S FAVORITE STREET FOOD ARE BALLS OF BATTERED OCTOPUS, COVERED IN A RICH SAUCE

LEFT: TAKE A CRUISE ALONG THE DOTOMBORI ABOVE: MAKE A COIN OFFERING AT THE TRANQUIL HOZENJI TEMPLE

Take a cruise along the Dotonbori

Eat okonomiyaki in Uranamba Torame Yokocho

Catch the tram to Sumiyoshi Shrine

Learn the backstories to famous Osaka sightseeing spots on a 20-minute guided cruise of the Dotonbori canal.

Order a serving of Osaka’s iconic dish made from a flour, yam, egg and cabbage batter with ingredients like pork and squid at Torame Yokocho, a cluster of restaurants with a large vermillion torii gate at the entrance.

Take a streetcar from Tennoji to the photogenic Sumiyoshi-taisha. Walk over the arched vermillion bridge while exploring the beauty of the shrine grounds.

Wander around Hozenji Yokocho Alley Hozenji Yokocho is a photogenic stone-paved street offering a plethora of well-established Japanese dining options. While you’re there, splash some water on Hozenji temple’s moss-covered Fudo-myo statue, known as Mizukake Fudo, while saying a prayer and making a coin offering.

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

Play arcade games in Taito Station Show off your Dance Dance Revolution moves or taiko drumming skills at the multi-floored Taito Station gaming center. Don’t forget to try out the purikura “print club” photo booths where you can decorate your portraits inside the machines.

Eat kushikatsu in Shinsekai Head to one of Osaka’s most down-toearth neighborhoods known as the birthplace of kushikatsu—deep-fried meat & vegetable morsels on sticks.

Daruma is one of the original kushikatsu restaurants and is a stone’s throw from the iconic Tsutenkaku Tower.

Day 2 Have a picnic in Osaka Castle Park Roam the expansive grounds of Osakajo Koen and pick a spot to spread a picnic blanket and eat a bento lunchbox before visiting the iconic castle.

Go to Spa World Relax in onsen baths and saunas with elaborate Asian and European themes at Spa World.

Look at the city from Abeno Harukas

Drink sake in a standing bar

Take an elevator to the top of Japan’s tallest building and marvel at sweeping views of the seemingly never-ending city from 300 meters above ground.

Try out a classic drop of local nihonshu, or sake, at one of Ura-Namba’s standing bars, like Kujira.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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LEFT: FRESHLY GROUND GREEN TEA AT OSAKA CHAKAI ABOVE: CLASSY COCKTAILS AT CAFE ABSINTHE

Drink green tea at Cafe Osaka Chakai No visit to a Japanese city is complete without taking the time to savor a cup of green tea. Drink the finest tea from delicate Japanese pottery at the tranquil Cafe Osaka Chakai.

Say a prayer at Osakatemmangu Shrine Visit one of Osaka’s most important Shinto shrines famous for hosting the massive annual festival known as Tenjin Matsuri.

Stroll around the Museum of Housing and Living See what Osaka was like during the Edo Period (1603–1867) through recreated houses and neighborhoods. Borrow a kimono for a small fee and stroll along the old streets in traditional dress.

Go shopping in the Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Arcade Browse the quirky stores in Japan’s longest shopping arcade. Afterward, treat yourself to fresh sashimi at the lively and loud seafood restaurant Tottsuan then some local Minoh craft beer at the rustic Beer Belly.

See the city lights at Umeda Sky Building View the cityscape lit up at night from the observation platform of this spectacular high-rise building in the Kita district.

Day 4 Roam the shops of Nakazakicho Visit this retro neighborhood full of nagaya (old Japanese wooden buildings) renovated into artsy shops and cafes.

Have brunch at one of the many quaint cafes like 1930 Cafe or Public Kitchen

Find it…

Cafe before browsing boutique shops like Jam Pot, whose white, wooden shelves are filled with jewelry and accessories from over 80 different artists in Japan.

There are many ‘buy and sell’ used clothing stores in Nakazakicho, with Green Pepe being a great place to start.

Watch Sealife at Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan Spiral around the eight floors of one of the world’s largest and most spectacular aquariums, renowned for its innovative presentation.

Eat sushi in Shinsaibashi Devour Japan’s most famous dish at popular sushi joints like Jinen Unagidani or Hasegawa Shinsaibashi.

Order a nightcap at a trendy bar End the day with a mojito at the Mediterranean-style Cafe Absinthe or a lychee martini at the Suite—modeled on a New York hotel suite, it’s like stepping into a scene straight out of The Great Gatsby.

Mel Coffee Roasters 1-20-4 Shinmachi; melcoffee.stores.jp • Lilo Coffee Roasters Shinsaibashi M Bldg, 1-10-28 Nishishinsaibashi; coffee.liloinveve.com • Kinji BIGSTEP Bldg, 1-6-14 Nishishinsaibashi; kinji.jp • Fugs 2F Nippo San Tera Kaikan, 2-9-5 Nishishinsaibashi; wa1969.blog.fc2.com • Silver Ball Planet BIGSTEP Bldg, 1-6-14 Nishishinsaibashi; big-step.co.jp • Kogaryu Takoyaki 2-18-4 Nishishinsaibashi; kougaryu.jp • Donaiya America-mura 1-16-15 Nishishinsaibashi; donaiya. jp • Tombori River Cruise Ticketing on 1st floor of Don Quijote Dotonbori; osaka-info.jp/en/page/tombori-river-cruise • Hozenji Temple 1-2-16 Nanba; houzenji.jp • Taito Station 15-12 Nanbasennichimae; taito.co.jp • Uranamba Torameyokocho 2-3-15 Sennichimae; xn--5gq699ddyi2op.com • Osaka Castle Park 1 Osakajo, Chuo Ward; osakacastlepark.jp • Abeno Harukas 1 Chome-1-43 Abenosuji; abenoharukas-300.jp • Sumiyoshi Shrine 2-9-89 Sumiyoshi; sumiyoshitaisha.net • Kushikatsu Daruma Shinsekai 2-3-9 Ebisuhigashi; kushikatu-daruma.com • Spa World 3-4-24 Ebisuhigashi; spaworld.co.jp • Kujira Nanbasennichimae 14-18; chiyoshuzo.co.jp • Cafe Osaka Chakai 2-1-25 Tenjinbashi; osakachakai. jp • Osakatemmangu Shrine 2-1-8 Tenjinbashi; tenjinsan.com • Museum of Housing and Living Tenjinbashi, 6-4-20 Housing Information Center Building 8F; osaka-info.jp/en/ page/osaka-museum-housing-living • Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Arcade Tenjinbashi, Kita-ku; tenjin123.com • temma spot temma spot; temma spot • Beer Belly Ikedacho 7−4; beerbelly.jp • Umeda Sky Building 1-1-87 Oyodonaka; skybldg.co.jp • 1930 Cafe Nakazakinishi, 2-5-21; 1930cafe.jp • Public Kitchen Cafe 1-9-12 Nakazakinishi; pkp.co.jp • Green Pepe 3-1-12 Nakazaki; greenpepe3104.com • Jam Pot 3-2-31 Nakazaki; jampot.jp • Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku; kaiyukan.com • Jinen Unagidani 1-826 Higashishinsaibashi; jinen.org • Hasegawa Shinsaibashi Stage Bldg 4F, 1-16-20 Higashishinsaibashi; 06-6120-1600 • Cafe Absinthe 1 Chome-2-27 Kitahorie; absinthe-jp.com • The Suite Nishishinsaibashi, 2 Chome−18−18; thesuitejapan.com

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PHOTOS: OSAKA CHAKAI; CAFE ABSINTHE

Day 3

SAKE SENSEI’S

Brewery Adventures

EACH ISSUE WE EXPLORE A DIFFERENT FACET OF THE COMPLEX WORLD OF JAPANESE SAKE AND ACCOMPANY SAKE GURU RAKUDO YOSHIDA ON A VISIT TO ONE OF KANSAI’S ICONIC BREWERIES.

SUPPORTED BY: THE JAPAN SAKE SOCIETY

S

Rakudo Yoshida is Chairman of the Japan Sake Society and has devoted the past 41 years of his life to supporting— and enjoying—Japanese sake, its brewers and associations. He also happens to be a certified laughter therapist.

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PHOTOS: DANIEL LEE

SAKE SENSEI

ake production requires access to a bountiful supply of fresh, pure water. Simply turning on the tap won’t do, not to mention the utility bill would be eye-watering. Since sake is made up of more than 80% of the stuff, the quality of the water used makes a huge difference to the quality of sake that can be produced. It’s for this reason that you tend to find sake breweries in close proximity to water sources that have historically proven to be a perfect match for sake production, such as the Nada region of Hyogo, or Fushimi in Kyoto. Even today, Hyogo has the most breweries and produces more sake than any other region in Japan, thanks to the ubiquity of natural water filtering down from Mt. Rokko. Most breweries will access the water source directly from wells or natural springs, but others may source it from rivers or lakes. It is the unique mineral properties of each region’s water that allows for such a diverse variety of sake to be discovered across Japan.

Water is used in copious amounts at nearly every stage of the process, but

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

none more so than during the washing and steeping procedures before the rice is even steamed, as we witnessed firsthand during our visit to Joyo Shuzo (see opposite). Bags of freshly milled rice are emptied one by one into a steel drum, then washed meticulously by hand, in a precisely timed production line of lifting, washing, pouring, rinsing, and repeating, orchestrated under the watchful eye of the toji master brewer, counting out loud during every step. It’s mesmerizing to watch.

More water is required to steam the rice, to be added to the fermenting moromi mash, and finally at the end of the process, to dilute the finished brew and reduce its alcoholic content. Sake will contain about 19–20% alcohol per volume in its natural state, but to really release the flavors, it is usually diluted to something in the 15–16% range.

When all is said and done, the amount of water required to produce each bottle is something like 30 times the weight of rice used. Astonishing. Without a source of pure water, you simply cannot make sake.

KANSAI KURA CLOSEUP

Joyo Shuzo 城陽酒造 Yamashiro-Aodani, an area south of Kyoto near Uji, is more commonly known as a tea growing region (see our feature on p.10) and for its Aodani plum groves. Yet, since 1895, Joyo Shuzo has been brewing sake and umeshu (plum wine) to great acclaim from its location close to the river Kizugawa, whose groundwater provides its vital supply of pure shikomimizu brewing water, drawn from a 100m-deep well.

Its sake has proven popular internationally too, recently picking up a platinum medal for its Joyo Honjozo 65 Ookarakuchi brew at the 2018 Sake Selection held annually in Belgium, and a silver award at the International Wine Challenge 2018 for its Tokubetsu Junmai 60 (2017).

While sake production keeps them busy during the cold winter months,

SENSEI SAYS THEIR BUSY ON-SITE STORE IS A TESTAMENT TO THEIR CRAFT. PEOPLE VISIT FROM ALL OVER KANSAI TO TASTE THEIR LATEST RELEASES OR TO BUY SOUVENIRS FOR FRIENDS AND FAMILY.

come early summer when the neighboring Aodani plum groves are ripe with fruit, umeshu wine production takes over. Their flagship Umeshu Genshu is almost whiskey-like in its complexity with a deep refined flavor, unlike most overly sugary variations on the market.

With a small team and traditional techniques, Joyo Shuzo maintains a real hands-on approach to its sake brewing. The combination of pure water, dedication to their craft, and their commitment to using only the finest local sake-rice varieties has enabled them to produce a range of small-batch, hand-crafted sake to rival any in Japan.

ON SUNDAY, MARCH 10TH FROM 10AM TO 3PM THEY WILL BE HOLDING THEIR ANNUAL OPEN HOUSE KURABIRAKI EVENT WHERE YOU CAN SAMPLE THEIR SAKE RANGE, INCLUDING SOME LIMITED-EDITION BREWS, AND ENJOY SOME LOCALLY PRODUCED FOOD.

Address: Kubono-34-1 Nashima, Joyo-shi, Kyoto-fu 610-0116 • Tel: 0774-52-0003 • joyo-shuzo.co.jp

Sensei’s Selection 1. Joyo Ginjo Okarakuchi

吟醸酒 城陽 吟醸大辛口 Using only Kyoto’s premium Iwai rice, this well-balanced dry sake has delicate apple undertones.

2. Junmai Sannen Jukusei Koshu Hesomagari

3. Joyo Junmai Daiginjo — Yamada Nishiki

純米三年熟成古酒 へそ まがり

純米大吟醸 城陽（山田 錦）

This three-year aged sake is a complex beast of intense flavors with a dry palate.

Using 100% Yamada Nishiki rice grown in Hyogo, this premium sake has a wonderfully fruity aroma with hints of peach.

4. Genshu Tarekuchishu

5. Genshu Nigorizake

原酒 たれくち酒

原酒 にごり酒

A delightfully crisp genshu (undiluted) sake. Best enjoyed chilled or on the rocks.

Unfiltered so that you can really savor the taste of the sweet moromi mash. As if you were drinking the rice itself.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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TRAVEL

SHIZUOKA SPRING GETAWAY Discover the charms of Atami for a spring seaside escape.

TEXT: LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA

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SEASIDE TOWN ATAMI IS THE GATEWAY TO THE POPULAR IZU PENINSULA, BUT IS A GREAT DESTINATION IN ITS OWN RIGHT

PHOTOS: ATAMI HARBOR, ISTOCK.COM/DAR_ST; LOOKING DOWN AT ATAMI PORT, ISTOCK.COM/DAR_ST; ATAMI CASTLE, ISTOCK.COM/YAMAZAKIMASAYA

T

he coastal town of Atami has been a popular vacation spot with the Japanese for several centuries. Located on the northeast tip of Shizuoka Prefecture, it is the gateway to the scenic Izu Peninsula but makes for an attractive getaway destination in its own right. While traditionally known for its hot springs and fresh seafood, Atami also boasts an array of interesting museums that range from the sublime to the slightly ridiculous.

Its abundance of picturesque flower gardens make spring an ideal season to visit.

Atami witnessed a building boom with high-rise condos and resort hotels during the bubble era of the 1980s, but things slowed down when the bubble burst in the early 1990s. As a result, the town has a somewhat retro feel to it.

Unlike some other resort areas in Japan, Atami hasn’t really yet experienced a surge in foreign tourism, so the vibe here is generally quite relaxed.

Atami Baien or the Plum Garden has been a fixture in the city for over 130 years. While the plum blossom season (January to early March) is over by spring, the park is still a lovely place to stroll through. For seasonal flowers, however, head to the Akao Herb and Rose Garden, which offers 12 different themed gardens on a hilltop setting, with the added bonus of splendid sea views. For the young at heart, don’t miss the swing set near the Coeda Café,

where visitors of all ages line up for the chance to relive the childhood magic of legs pumping as you swing up high.

Another of Atami’s signature attractions is the MOA Museum of Art, which offers beautiful cherry blossoms in the sakura season and panoramic views all year round. The spacious and elegant buildings contain an eclectic range of artwork, calligraphy, and crafts, while the museum grounds include a Japanese garden and teahouse. For those wanting a further taste of Japanese culture, the museum also offers kimono dressing, tea ceremony and ikebana (flower arrangement) experiences. These should be booked in advance on the museum website.

If you want to explore more art, consider the attractive Sawada Seiko Memorial Museum. Sawada is a local-born sculptor and painter, and the museum is located on the edge of the aforementioned Plum Garden.

For some architectural opulence and cultural history, head to Kiunkaku, a villa that used to belong to the wealthy Uchida family. Built in 1919, the villa was turned into an inn in 1947 and was graced by some of Japan’s leading celebrities and writers in its heyday.

The main building is built in traditional Japanese style, while the annex is based on a Western design, making for an interesting contrast. The small but very pretty Japanese garden completes the experience.

MODERN CASTLE ATAMI CASTLE WAS CONSTRUCTED IN 1959 AS A TOURIST ATTRACTION AND OFFERS SUPERB VIEWS ACROSS THE BAY

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ATAMI BAIEN PLUM GARDEN IS A LOVELY STROLLING GARDEN ANY TIME OF YEAR, BUT BEST ENJOYED DURING JAN–MAR WHEN THE PLUM TREES ARE IN FULL BLOOM

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city, with the added bonus of nightly illuminations.

Ieyasu-no-yu is an outdoor footbath facility located in front of Atami Station and is free to enter. You’ll need to supply your own towel to dry off afterward, or you can purchase a 100-yen hand towel at the vending machine.

The Ito River runs through the center of the downtown area. It’s fun to stroll around, perhaps while pondering which of the area’s many cafés, restaurants or bars to visit. Small bridges criss-cross the river, decorated with motifs of various sea creatures, and the area is lit up in the evening.

If the timing is right, you might be fortunate enough to be in Atami for one of the regular weekend firework shows.

Dates for spring and early summer 2019 are March 31, April 20, May 11, May 26, June 16, and June 29. The displays take place in the Shinsui Park area from 8:20 to 8:45 p.m. and Sun Beach is a good spot to watch them.

Atami has a variety of accommodation options, including traditional ryokan (Japanese inns), Western-style hotels and smaller family-run ‘pension.’ Given that Atami is a hot springs resort, even most Western hotels will have attractive bathing facilities. If you’re staying at a full-service ryokan which serves dinner, expect lots of local fresh fish. There are many seafood eateries dotted around the

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

HENRY MOORE’S KING AND QUEEN SIT LOOKING OUT TO SEA OUTSIDE THE ATAMI MUSEUM OF ART

city, too. If you’re vegetarian or prefer a Western-style meal, then Atami’s local restaurants have also got that covered.

As Atami’s attractions are quite spread out, traveling by car is probably the most convenient way to get around, but buses and taxis are also available. There is a tourist service call the Yuyu Sightseeing Loop Bus, although it doesn’t go to the MOA Museum of Art. The one-day bus pass is a good option, and it is also valid for regular city buses to MOA.

ACCESS Atami can be reached from Shin-Osaka or Kyoto in about three hours by shinkansen (bullet train). From Tokyo, less than an hour on the shinkansen or two hours by car.

PHOTOS: ATAMI BAIEN, ISTOCK.COM/DAR_ST; ATAMI MOA, WIKIPEDIA

And now for something a little different: Atami is also home to the Hihokan.

The kanji characters translate as ‘House of Hidden Treasures,’ but the usual name in English is ‘Adult Museum.’

While this may not be an aspect of Japanese culture that is typically mentioned in travel guides, the museum is an unabashedly tongue-in-cheek look at another side of Japanese life. Visitors must be over 18 to enter. The facility can be reached by a ropeway which starts down at the waterfront in the center of the town. Close by is Atami Castle, which was built in 1959 specifically as a tourist attraction. Like many of the area’s sightseeing spots, the observatory offers wonderful views. There is a samurai museum inside and a corner where you can dress up in old-style clothing.

Linked to its history as a popular resort area, Atami also has a long association with geisha, and even today you can watch trained geisha perform most Saturdays and Sundays at Geigi Kenban.

After the show, you can mingle with the performers and take photos. Bookings are taken by phone, and the website is in Japanese only, so ask the tourist office for help if need be.

No visit to Atami is complete without a stroll along the beach. In this case, the place to be is Sun Beach, which runs alongside the main road through the

FEATURE

JAPAN GOLF TOURISM TEES OFF IN MIE

With its plethora of top-class golf courses and popularity with international travelers at an all-time high, it is surprising to learn that Japan lags behind other countries as a golf tourism destination. That is all about to change, however, as we discovered at Japan’s first ever Golf Tourism Convention, held in Mie last October.

PHOTO: © IAGTO

H

osted by the Global Golf Tourism Organisation (IAGTO) at the Shima Kanko Hotel in Ise (which famously hosted the 2016 G7 Summit), the event’s premise was simple. Gather 50 handpicked international golf tour operators and representatives from golf clubs from all across Japan, and sow the seeds of an industry that is already a billion-dollar business worldwide. In a speed-dating style flurry of matchmaking, tour operators met with golf course ‘suppliers’ to discover potential matches and lay the groundwork for a cautious rollout of Japan’s first national golf tourism strategy.

Mie itself represents a microcosm of everything the golf tourist would be hoping for: a slew of immaculate first-class courses, beautiful natural scenery, and a rich cultural and culinary heritage to explore between the fairways.

So why has it taken this long to join golf and tourism into one actionable strategy? Part of the answer lies in the culture of golf in Japan itself, which has long held an exclusive, members-only policy by many of its top clubs. Inflexible tee times also make many courses off-limits to casual tourists.

The reluctance or lack of suitable staff to cater for international golfers is also often cited as a significant hurdle.

By controlling the flow of international golfers and establishing a proven blueprint for success, however, the industry can be encouraged to open up and begin the necessary evolution required to reach its potential as a top global golf destination. With the Tokyo Olympics just over a year away, where golf will make its second outing as an Olympic sport, the time is ripe to take action.

Efforts to enter Japan into the global golf tourism market were initially made by the Japan Tourism Agency (JTA) in 2010 by participating in the International Golf Travel Market (IGTM) in Spain as a major exhibitor. It was a significant first step in raising awareness about Japan as a golf destination to international buyers. Fast forward to today, and largely through the vision and leadership of Mie governor Eikei Suzuki, Japan has been able to host its first Golf Tourism Convention, another major milestone. By being proactive in promoting itself as a top golf destination, and establishing key relationships both domestically and overseas, Mie has positioned itself as the pioneer of a potentially lucrative industry.

As JTA vice commissioner Jun Takashina sums up “it’s the combined effort of many parties that have made this gathering possible. It is only the start, but we believe that through our network of fabulous scenic golf courses and our unique hospitality, we can strive to meet the needs of the International golf tourist, and evolve into a major golf tourism destination.”

MIEGOLFTOURISM.JP

Want to play golf in Japan?

The website golf-in-japan.com lists a number of courses in various prefectures. Most listings include the price range, address, contact information, rankings, pictures, and all other necessary information in English.

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS IN KANSAI

文 楽

ABOUT BUNRAKU

Bunraku is a traditional form of puppet theater, also called ningyojoruri. It combines narration, shamisen recital, and skillful puppetry into a mesmerizing art form, and was designated as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2003.

Groups of puppeteers are said to have existed as early as the Heian period (794–1185), but it was during the Edo period (1603–1868) in Osaka that it really flourished as an accessible form of storytelling for the common man. Stories often feature scenes and characters from Osaka’s colorful history.

In the early 19th century, Uemura Bunrakuken from Awaji Island established a joruri puppet theater called Bunraku-za in Osaka, and having outlived its competitors, Bunraku became synonymous with joruri puppetry as one of the representative performing arts of Osaka.

The beautiful, semi life-size puppets are manipulated by three puppeteers each—one main puppeteer and two assistants. One narrator voices all the characters in an impressive display of vocal acrobatics.

Bunraku

Aria Aoyama from the Japan Institute for Culture & International Exchange sat down with Yoshie Yamamoto from the acclaimed Yamamoto Noh Theater in Osaka to discuss Bunraku and its synergies with Noh. TEXT: KS

PRESENTED BY THE JAPAN INSTITUTE FOR CULTURE & INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE

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PUPPETEER: TAKASUKE YOSHIDA

WHERE TO SEE BUNRAKU The National Bunraku Theater in the historical home of Bunraku in Osaka. Performances are usually held in three-week runs during January, April, June, July/August, and November. English audioguides can be rented that provide some essential translation and background to each play.

WHEN: Apri 6–26 • TIME: 11am (part 1) 4pm (part 2) • ADMISSION: From ¥2,800 • ACCESS: Nipponbashi Stn • ntj.jac.go.jp/english/ schedule/national-bunraku-theatre.html

PHOTOS: © YAMAMOTO NOH THEATER

A NOH PERFORMER. NOH AND BUNRAKU OFTEN RE-INTERPRET EACH OTHERS PLAYS

Aoyama: Would I be wrong to describe Bunraku as a form of sophisticated puppet theater for adults?

Yamamoto: Yes, I think that’s fairly close! I would say that if Noh (Japanese masked theater) was for the Gods, then Bunraku is its descendent, re-interpreted to be accessible to the common man.

A: So are you suggesting Bunraku shares its origins with the development of Noh? Y: Yes and no. Historically, Noh was developed during the Muromachi period about 700 years ago. At the time, it was loved by feudal warlords such as Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu, and later developed into the shikigaku of the shogunate—a form of entertainment that was always performed during formal ceremonies and special occasions.

It was performed for the samurai class but always dedicated to the gods, as it is today. Noh was out of reach for the commoner, and for a long time—about 300 years—Noh remained closed off beyond the walls of power until…

A: Until, the Edo period of course, like everything else in recent Japanese history.

Y: Exactly. During the Edo period, warfare that had been ongoing for centuries finally came to an end, and Japan experienced a time of isolation, consolidation, and peace. As everything settled, people naturally came to seek entertainment in their daily lives, and that is when Bunraku and Kabuki were born as entertainment for the masses.

A: There seem to be some similar elements shared between each art—stories, characters, and set design, for example

Y: Yes. That’s right. Both Bunraku and Kabuki were heavily influenced by Noh, but each developed in its own right.

Resemblances can be detected here and there but not always. It is actually quite fun to look into the other performing arts through the lens of Noh. It’s hard to generalize, as many Bunraku productions are not borrowed from Noh. But for the stories that are, they change form, and are re-interpreted, since they were intended for the masses and had to be adapted to be more accessible.

A: If I recall correctly, there was a story from the “Heike Monogatari” that was originally adapted for Noh, and Bunraku later took the story and created a sort of sequel.

Y: You are talking about the story of Samurai Taira no Tomomori. In the Noh play, Funa-Benkei (Benkei in a Boat) he appears as a vengeful spirit to attack Minamoto Yoshitsune who is escaping by boat. Yoshitsune fights back fiercely but since ghosts cannot be killed by sword, he struggles until Benkei—a loyal to Yoshitsune—starts praying and succeeds in banishing the ghost to the spirit world.

A: In Bunraku, the same Tomomori appears but as the master of an inn, instead of being a warlord.

Y: Indeed, the story goes that Tomomori didn’t die in the Battle of Dan-noura and becomes the master of an inn.

He waits patiently, day after day, for the opportunity to seek revenge against Yoshitsune until one day he finds out that Yoshitsune is at sea, and Tomomori makes his way there to fight, but loses in the end.

The Yamamoto Noh Theatre – includes Bunraku in its Englishlanguage performing arts programme. Taira no Tomomori - a famous samurai warrior of the late Heian period - is represented in three different performance art forms. Enjoy English Rakugo storytelling, and Noh and Bunraku performances with English subtitles.

WHEN: Mar 25 (Mon) • TIME: 7–9pm • WHERE: Yamamoto Noh Theatre • ADMISSION: ¥5,000 • ACCESS: Tanimachi-4-chome Subway Stn, 4-min walk • noh-theater.com/ performanceen.php

Umeda Bunraku 2019 @ Grand Front Osaka will be hosting three days of Bunraku performances with special guest performers.

WHEN: Mar 29–31 • TIME: Varies – refer to website for more info • ADMISSION: ¥4,000 • Tel 06-6314-8262 • ACCESS: Umeda Stn • ktv.jp/ event/bunraku

After this version became highly popularised through Bunraku, the same story was then further adapted into a comical Rakugo version. Here, Tomomori appears as a husband who is caught by his wife fooling around on a ship during the cherry-blossom-viewing festival, and in surprise falls overboard.

As he emerges from the water, he sings a song with the lyrics “I am the ghost of Taira no Tomomori…,” apparently eliciting rapturous laughter from the audience who appreciate the parody.

A: I wonder if such intelligent play and humor is something of the past...

Y: Well no, if you go to one of the plays—Noh, Bunraku, Kabuki, or Rakugo—it’s all right there, alive and kicking!

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What’s On  Cultural WAKAYAMA

HINA NAGASHI – FAREWELL TO HINA DOLLS 雛流し

Awashima Shrine, Wakayama • Mar 3 Awashima-jinja is well-known for the hina nagashi (doll floating) ritual that takes place annually on March 3rd – Girls’ Day. Many women visit this shrine to pray for good luck in matters such as childbirth and fertility. The shrine is famous for its dolls, which are lined up in the front hall and have been dedicated from all over the country by families with girls. The festival involves piling traditional Japanese dolls on boats and launching them out to sea in a special ritual. It’s thought that any potential bad luck is launched out to sea with the dolls, ensuring the health and success of the girls who donated the dolls. Awashima Shrine is one of the few places where doll floating is still practiced.

Every year, thousands of women attend the ceremony to send off their dolls carrying precious memories to the land of gods.

TIME: Noon • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai Line, Kada Stn, 15min walk • kada.jp/awashima

What’s On Guide 32

March OSAKA

OSAKA ASIAN FILM FESTIVAL 2019 Mar 8–17 • Various locations, Osaka With carefully selected films from all over Asia, the Osaka Asian Film Festival marks its 14th year. Experience Asia through the 51 films from 17 different regions. This year the opening film is RANDEN: The Comings and Goings on a Kyoto Tram, a love story that unfolds in Kyoto, and the closing film is Daddy Issues, a comedic tale of a father and a daughter.

Venues include ABC Hall (Fukushima), Cine Libre Umeda, Hankyu Hall, and more, all located within northern Osaka City.

TIME: Various • ADMISSION:

¥1,300 Adults (¥1,500 at door), concessions • ACCESS: Various • oaff.jp/2019/en HYOGO

BUJIN SAI – DEMONFIGHTING FESTIVAL 武神祭（ぶじんさい）

Usuki Hachiman Shrine, Hyogo • Mar 30

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

According to legend, once upon a time, when a nearby island was under attack by foreign forces, a warlord prayed to the shrine. Five ogres heroically chased the enemies away by causing a strong wind and destroying a fleet of 732 ships. The festival is dedicated to the bujin, the ogre gods that defend people. Watch a spectacular dance from five colorful ogres to commemorate and enjoy a float parade and a variety of other performances.

TIME: 11:30am–4:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Aboshi Stn, bus to Miyauchi, 3-min walk • usukihachiman.or.jp

KYOTO

SEIRYU-E – BLUE DRAGON PARADE 青龍会

Kiyomizu Temple & Surroundings, Kyoto • Mar 14, 15 & Apr 3 This festival at Kiyomizudera features a colorful dance and procession through the neighborhood of the “Blue Dragon.” The dragon is said to have flown into this temple to drink the water from the Otowa waterfall, which is beneath the main hall.

An 18-meter dragon will

head the procession with performers clothed in traditional costumes from the temple and the surrounding areas.

TIME: 2pm–3:30pm • ADMISSION: ¥400 to enter the temple • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Kiyomizu Gojo Stn, 25-min walk; JR Kyoto Stn, bus to Kiyomizumichi • kiyomizudera. or.jp

KYOTO

HANEZU DANCE はねず踊り

Zuishin-in Temple, Kyoto • Mar 25 Hanezu refers to a soft pink color that is close to white. It alludes to the color of fresh plum blossoms that appear during late March. Celebrating the blooming of the beautiful flowers, Hanezu dance is performed by young girls in matching kimono.

One of the songs is about the legendary poet Ono no Komachi, who was renowned as a great beauty in Japanese history. Four showtimes are scheduled during the day at 11am, 12:30pm, 1:30pm, and 3pm.

TIME: 11am • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 (includes plum garden entry) adults, concessions • ACCESS: Tozai Subway line, Ono Stn, 5-min walk • zuishinin.or.jp

NARA

OTAIMATSU – HERALDING OF SPRING お松明（おたいまつ）

Nigatsudo in Todai-ji Temple, Nara • Mar 1–14 During Otaimatsu, priests run to and fro along the corridors of Nigatsu-do, one of the important structures of Todai-ji temple, waving huge pine torches. It is believed that if you are showered with these fire sparks, you will be protected from evil.

This centuries-old ritual has been carried out every year since 752. Each night around 10 torches are lit up and the largest torch appears on the 12th.

TIME: 7pm (6:30pm Mar 14; 7:30pm Mar 12) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Nara Stn, bus to Daibutsuden Kasugataishamae, 5-min walk • todaiji.or.jp

NARA

CEREMONY TO DRIVE AWAY DEMONS 鬼追い式（おにおいしき）

Yakushiji Temple, Nara • Mar 31 This ceremony is performed on the final day of hana eshiki, a seven-day Buddhist ritual where 10 kinds of flowers are offered to

What’s On  Cultural

See Kansaifinder.com for more

SHIGA

SAGICHO FESTIVAL 左義長まつり

Himure Hachimangu, Shiga • Mar 16 & 17 This is a centuries-old religious festival, which the lord Oda Nobunaga was known to be very fond of in the early 16th century. Admire the spectacular floats carried by men wearing theatrical makeup. Watch as participants dance excitedly amid showers of fiery sparks around a blazing sagicho. These are floats with a two-meter-high pine torch woven from new straw on top of which is propped a three-meter-long bamboo pole decorated with thousands of strips of red paper. A figure of the animal of the year is mounted in the center of the float.

On the 17th, these sagicho are crashed together in a fighting ceremony. Ramming into each other, some of them break into pieces. See elaborately dressed young men dancing wildly around the flames as the floats are set ablaze at the end of the ceremony.

TIME: 1pm–5:30pm Mar 16, 10:30am–10:40pm Mar 17 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus to Obatamachi • biwako-visitors.jp/event/detail/25080

pray for national prosperity.

At night, five demons enter the temple grounds holding large torches and run around the stage waving the flames as sparks shower all around. At the end of the ceremony, the Buddhist God Bishamonten enters to chase away the evil spirits.

TIME: 8:30pm • ADMISSION: Free

after 7pm • ACCESS: Kintetsu line, Nishinokyo Stn, 1-min walk • narayakushiji.com

HYOGO

TIGHTROPE LION DANCE 伊勢の森神社 梯子獅子

Isenomori Shrine, Hyogo • Apr 8 With a backdrop of plum and cherry trees in full bloom, performers bravely dance on a tightrope crossing a 10-meter valley. The dance is part of Isenomorijinja’s annual festival, as thousands congregate to the shrine’s grounds tucked away in a mountainous area on Awaji Island. After a comedic performance on the shrine grounds, the tightrope lion dance begins.

TIME: 1pm–3pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Kobe Line, Maiko Stn, bus

SHIGA

NAGAHAMA HIKIYAMA FESTIVAL 長浜曳山まつり

Nagahama Hachimangu & Surroundings • Apr 13–16 Enjoy the traditional art of kabuki being performed on hikiyama floats that are themselves works of art; beautifully decorated with antique tapestries and adorned with elaborate carvings. Each neighborhood in the area is responsible for owning and maintaining a float and selects a child to participate in the kabuki performances that take place on the evening of the 13th, morning of the 14th, and throughout the 15th and 16th.

TIME: Depends on date • ADMISSION:

Free • ACCESS: JR Biwako line, Nagahama Stn, 10-min walk • nagahama-hikiyama.or.jp/foreign/ eng.html SHIGA

KAWAKAMI FESTIVAL (SANYARE MATSURI) 川上祭（サンヤレ祭り）

Hiragasaki-Baba Riding Ground, Shiga • Apr 18 Two Shinto shrines, Hiokijinja and Tsuno-jinja host

a large-scale religious festival praying for universal peace and a bountiful harvest. Shrine processions are made along with the “sanyare” festival song; children in a happi (kimono coat), and men in formal kimono proudly march a miniature-shrine and decorative banners to the main venue of HiragasakiBaba. Watch as the men draw the 18-meter-long banners around the grounds while children destroy the colorfully decorated short banners. Don’t miss the Japanese horseback archery held before the banner ceremony.

TIME: 1pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omi-Imazu Stn bus to Hiragasaki, 3-min walk • city.takashima.lg.jp

NARA

KEMARI FESTIVAL 蹴鞠祭

Tanzan Shrine, Nara • Apr 29 An elegant ball game that was popular among people of the court in early Japanese history takes place at the ancient Tanzan-jinja. Mountains in fresh spring verdure provide the perfect setting for this traditional event called kemari. Wearing beautiful kimono, performers kick

OSAKA

NIPPOMBASHI STREET FESTA 第15回日本橋ストリートフェスタ

Denden Town & Surroundings, Osaka • Mar 9 A mecca of electronics, robots, and pop culture, Den Den Town hosts this epic event every March where hundreds of thousands of anime and video-game fans, robot lovers, and collectors pour into Nippombashi.

The main street will be closed off to traffic to make room for a crowd of cosplayers and TV characters eager to show off their fine work. Do not miss the grand parade of people in cartoon-character costumes, cute maids from maid cafés, popular performers, and more. Live music shows, food stalls, workshops on electronic equipment, and various other interesting activities will take place. Do note that participating in the cosplay and or the cosplay parade requires registration. For more information, please visit the website.

PHOTO: JASON HAIDAR

April

to Tsuna Ichinomiya IC, 10-min taxi ride • awajishima-kanko.jp

TIME: Noon 12pm–3pm (parade starts at 12:15pm) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Ebisucho Stn, 6-min walk • nippombashi.jp/festa

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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What’s On  Cultural WAKAYAMA

MAGOICHI FESTIVAL 第15回孫市まつり

Honganji Saginomori Betsuin Temple & Surroundings, Wakayama • Mar 31 This annual spectacle celebrates the historic hero, Magoichi Saika who lived in 16th-century Wakayama. His matchlockgun-wielding troops, called saika-shu, had a fearsome reputation as formidable warriors. Watch a thrilling demonstration of matchlock guns, and some dynamic stage combat, before following the samurai warriors as they parade around the town (starting at 10:30am from Wakayama Castle’s Fukiage Gate Park).

There will also be a live rock music show, a local produce market, and yuru kyara (mascot characters) for kids.

TIME: 11am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai Line, Wakayamashi Stn, 5-min walk • magoichi. fc2web.com

SHIGA

IMPERIAL PRINCESS PROCESSION あいの土山斎王群行（あいのつちやまさい おうぐんこう）

Tsuchiyama-cho, Koga City, Shiga • Mar 25 A Heian-period (794–1185) pageant will be reenacted to celebrate the town of Tsuchiyama-cho once being a temporary place of accommodation for the Imperial family. Hundreds of participants dressed in Heianperiod style will take part in the three-kilometer parade from Ono Shogakko School to the Tarumi Saio Tongu ruins.

TIME: 11:30am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS:

JR Kibukawa Stn, bus to Ono-Higashiguchi • ac-koka.jp/aituchi/saiou

and pass the ball gracefully.

Legend has it that Prince Nakano Oe first met his vassal Kamatari Fujiwara at a kemari game in the 7th century. To commemorate this historical event, Tanzan-jinja, the shrine that houses the deity Kamatari Fujiwara, hosts the ancient ball game biannually in spring and autumn.

TIME: 11am • ADMISSION: ¥600 adults,

concessions • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Line, Sakurai Stn, bus to Tanzan-jinja • tanzan.or.jp WAKAYAMA

JANJAKA ODORI – SNAKE DANCE 道成寺会式（ジャンジャカ踊 り）

Dojo-ji & Surroundings, Wakayama • Apr 27 Legend has it that a girl named Kiyohime turned into a serpent and chased after her beloved, a monk known as Anchin. This story is reenacted during the temple’s annual festival as a 25-meter snake slithers up the steep stone steps and goes through the temple’s gates. In the finale, the snake finds its prey hiding under a giant bell and emits red smoke while coiling

34

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around it as the sad love story comes to a fatal end.

TIME: 1pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS:

JR Dojoji Stn, 7-min walk • dojoji. com

May KYOTO

KAKEUMA SHINJI 駈馬神事

Fujinomori Shrine, Kyoto • May 5 During the five-day Fujinomori Festival happening from May 1st to 5th, the kakeuma shinji trick riding ritual takes place where equestrians show off their acrobatic riding finesse. On the 200-meter track, positions such as a headstand on the saddle or the fuji-sagari—a posture that mimics an attacked warrior falling off a horse but with one leg attached to the stirrup—are performed. On the same day, Fujinomori-jinja also hosts a portable-shrine procession, warrior parade, and traditional performing arts as part of the festival.

TIME: 1pm & 3pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Sumizome Stn, 7-min walk; JR Fujinomori Stn, 5-min walk • fujinomorijinjya.or.jp

KYOTO

MIFUNE FESTIVAL 三船祭

Arashiyama Togetsukyo Bridge & Surroundings, Kyoto • May 20 Spectacular scenes of courtly boating from the early history of Japan will be enacted around Togetsukyo bridge. Elegant courtiers perform traditional dances, music and poetry on the three boats that sail up and down the river Oi. The woman in the extravagant kimono is Sei Shonagon, the author of The Pillow Book.

The best way to enjoy this festival is to borrow one of the blue paddle boats and watch the processions from the water.

TIME: 12:30pm–3pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Saga-Arashiyama Stn, 10-min walk • kurumazakijinja.or.jp

SHIGA

KAMO MATSURI – ANCIENT HORSE RACING FESTIVAL 賀茂祭 足伏走馬

What’s On  Cultural

See Kansaifinder.com for more

OSAKA

SHORYOE – MEMORIAL SERVICE FOR PRINCE SHOTOKU 聖霊会舞楽大法要

Shitenno-ji Temple, Osaka • Apr 22 This event is an excellent opportunity to appreciate bugaku, a great classical performing art. The performance commemorates the revered ancient figure, Prince Shotoku, who erected this important temple in the 6th century. A skilled troupe of dancers trained in bugaku, which has been designated a nationally important cultural asset, will put on a performance that has been carried out in the Japanese imperial courts for over 1,200 years. Watch the graceful movements of young boys in butterfly costumes and other dancers wearing elaborate masks. Beautiful ornaments shaped like red spider lilies will decorate the stage adding to the ambiance of this traditional Japanese art. The original version of the lion dance will be sure to delight the crowd.

TIME: 12:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Subway Stn, 5-min walk • shitennoji.or.jp

Kamo Shrine, Shiga • May 6 Featuring the ancient horseracing ceremony known as ashifusesome, both rider and horse are fully decked out in the colorful traditional garb of the Heian period as they dash through the 400m straight courses in the grove of the shrine. The shrine also provides a horseback experience during the event.

TIME: 1pm–5pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus or taxi to Kamohigashi • kamo-jinjya.or.jp

NARA

EMPEROR SHOMU MEMORIAL SERVICE 聖武天皇祭

Todai-ji Temple, Nara • May 2 This is a Buddhist service for the Emperor Shomu who erected the statue of the Great Buddha, Daibutsu. There will be a parade of around 300 people starting at the Nara Kasugano International Forum and moving through Todai-ji’s Nandaimon Gate and ending at the Great Buddha Hall. Traditional Japanese court music bugaku will be performed on the stage near Kagami pond.

TIME: 1pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR or Kintetsu Line, Nara Stn, bus to Daibutsuden Kasugataisha-mae • todaiji. or.jp

KYOTO

KYOTO MIRAIMATSURI 2019 京都ミライマツリ 2019

Minamiza Theater • May 15–25 After extensive refurbishment, Japan’s oldest theater aims to become the entertainment hub of Kyoto in May, by mixing traditional kabuki performance with cutting edge technology. A huge waterfall (using real water) will provide the centerpiece for some Japanese-themed projection mapping and a summer yuka terrace will be set up alongside the flowing water, recreating a summer Kyoto riverbank scene. Be sure to check out the AR (augmented reality) kabuki theater performances and the parties at night featuring live DJs.

KYOTO

AOI MATSURI FESTIVAL 葵祭

Kyoto Imperial Palace, Shimogamo & Kamigamo Shrines • May 15 One of the oldest festivals in Japan, Aoi Matsuri is said to have originated during the 6th century when Emperor Kinmei reigned. “Aoi” is Japanese for hollyhock, which is used to decorate costumes, floats, and other ornaments.

Over 500 people participate in the procession adorning traditional dresses from the Heian period. The captivating procession moves to Kamigamo-jinja from the Imperial Palace via Shimogamo-jinja. It is free to stand and watch or follow along with the parade, but buying tickets for seats is also possible.

TIME: 10:30am–3:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Karasuma Subway line, Marutamachi Stn • kyokanko.or.jp/aoi

ACCESS: Keihan Line, Gion-shijo Stn • miraimatsuri.com • TICKETS: ticketstoday. jp/en/booths#kansai

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Sights & Attractions

HYOGO

Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway

PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/JIKGOE

Enjoy a stunning ropeway ride before exploring the charming strolling herb gardens and greenhouse exhibits at the top of Mt. Rokko. Meander your way leisurely down through the carefully maintained collections of herbs and flowering plants while admiring the sweeping views across the city below. A great place for kids to let off some steam or for a romantic twilight date. Popular buffetstyle restaurant on-site.

Chuo-ku Kitanocho 1-4-3 • TEL: 078-271-1160

Osaka Museums

CUP NOODLES MUSEUM This offbeat museum in Ikeda, north of Osaka, pays tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of the instant noodle. Fun, handson activities and, for only ¥300, you can design your own bespoke cup noodles (takes about 45 mins).

8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda-shi, Osaka • cupnoodles-museum.jp

OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUM Hands-on exhibits introduce themes on space and energy to all ages but the planetarium is the main draw here. Note: The museum will be closed for refurbishment from Dec 18 (to re-open in April 2019).

4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6444-5656

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART, OSAKA Housed beneath the Science Museum and instantly recognisable with its futuristic ground floor entrance, designed

by Argentinian architect César Pelli, the NMAO features works from Cezanne and Picasso to contemporary artists.

4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku • TEL: 066447-4680

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MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND LIVING This museum depicts everyday Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life-sized interactive recreation of an Edo-era neighborhood you can explore!

Kita Ward, Tenjinbashi, 6-4-20 • TEL: 06-6242-1170

SUMIYOSHI SHRINE Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Founded in the 3rd century before Buddhism came to the country, it has a distinctive style of shrine architecture— called Sumiyoshi-zukuri—that is free of influence from mainland Asia.

2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi-ku

THE MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS, OSAKA Regarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum for ceramic enthusiasts. Located in leafy Nakanoshima, next to the iconic Central Public Hall.

1 Chome-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6223-0055

Monuments and Landmarks

OSAKA CASTLE If you visiting Osaka for the first time, then you are duty bound to visit this 400-year-old castle in the beautiful grounds of the

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extensive Osaka Castle Park.

The small museum inside offers a great insight into its history.

UMEDA SKY BUILDING One of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, the Floating Garden Observatory connecting its two towers offers 360-degree panoramic views.

Kita-ku, Oyodonaka 1-1-88

ABENO HARUKAS Japan’s tallest skyscraper at 300m in height, is home to an observatory, art museum and hotel as well as hundreds of shops.

TSUTENKAKU TOWER One of Osaka’s most iconic landmarks, presiding over the Shinsekai area in Tennoji. There are observation decks on the 4th and 5th floors, although at just 103m high, is dwarfed by the nearby Abeno Harukas.

1-18-6 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward

Attractions

OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKAN One of the largest public aquariums in the world, with an amazing collection of marine life, including the popular whale shark tank and the mesmerising jellyfish. Allow several hours.

1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 066576-5501 • kaiyukan.com

LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER OSAKA A great place for the kids to let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, small rides and 4D cinema that form this indoor LEGO playground. Inside the Tempozan Marketplace shopping center next to the Osaka Aquarium.

1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 0800100-5346

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN Giant movie-themed amusement park with thrills and spills for all ages, featuring characters from the Universal stable, including Harry Potter, Spiderman, and the Minions.

2 Chome-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward • usj.co.jp

SPA WORLD A giant hot spring theme park with a huge choice of fanciful baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its upper floors. Open 24 hrs.

3-4-24 Ebisu-higashi Naniwa-ku • TEL: 06-6631-0001

SILVER BALL PLANET Japan’s mecca for pinball machines, housing over 100 machines dating from the 1970s to the present day.

Big Step 3F, Nishi-shinsaibashi 1-6-14 • silverballplanet.jp

Sights & Attractions

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Nara Museums

NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM Ranging over four buildings with wheelchair access, this museum holds treasures from the Nara period (710 to 784 AD), plus Buddhist and decorative art from around Japan with explanations in English.

50 Noborioji-cho, Nara • narahaku.go.jp

NARA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF ART Nara’s main art museum has an extensive collection of Japanese art, with a focus on the Edo and Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate every two to three months and explanations of most pieces are in English. There is a good museum shop and regular free workshops and activities for families. Free for seniors and for foreigners with ID.

Monuments and Landmarks

NARA PARK A huge ancient park and the focal point for any visit to Nara. Droves of wild deer will follow you around as you explore the park’s stunning temples, gardens and museums, hoping you may feed them special deer crackers.

TODAIJI Todaiji Temple with its 15m high Buddha is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and draws a steady stream of visitors. todaiji.or.jp

Kyoto

KYOTO AQUARIUM

Museums

KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART A great collection of both Japanese and Western modern art, with some excellent temporary exhibitions. Across the road from the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art. Sakyo Ward, Okazaki Enshojicho, 26−1 • TEL: 075-761-4111

KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM

KASUGA-TAISHA SHRINE An ancient shinto shrine, famous for its stunning vermillion colored columns, is approached along an atmospheric forest path, lined with hundreds of stone lanterns.

One of Japan’s oldest museums housing a permanent collection of Japanese artefacts, treasures and artworks.

527 Chayacho, Higashiyama-ku • TEL: 075-525-2473

KYOTO RAILWAY MUSEUM

kasugataisha.or.jp

This 30,000 square meter space features 53 engines ranging from the Japan’s oldest steam locomotive to more recent shinkansen models. Kids will go crazy for the train simulators and interactive dioramas. A must for train buffs of all ages.

10-6 Noborioji-cho, Nara

Kankijicho, Shimogyo-ku • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp

KYOTO

Kyoto International Manga Museum

NIJO CASTLE The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo castle encompasses several gardens and the beautifully preserved Ninomaru Palace, whose lavishly decorated rooms feature ornate woodwork and stunning wall paintings.

This massive collection of contemporary and historical manga, comics and graphic novels, housed in a former primary school is a huge hit with manga and comic buffs the world over. Featuring an excellent permanent collection that leads the viewer through the history of this unique art form, and plenty of comfy chairs for you to relax in with your favorite volume borrowed from their extensive library. Cafe serving light meals and drinks on-site.

541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward

FOREVER MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

Karasuma-Oike, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto (former Tatsuike Primary School) • kyotomm.jp

Located inside the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theater in Kyoto, this newly opened gallery presents contemporary art in a traditional Japanese setting and comprises nearly 60% Yayoi Kusama works.

570-2 Gion-machi (south side), Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto • fmoca.jp/en

PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/COWARD_LION

Attractions

TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARK Lots of fun to be had at this old Edo-themed movie park. With a brilliant ninja show, fun staged samurai fights and the chance to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets, it’s a great afternoon out.

A modern aquarium in Umekoji Park, with aquatic creatures presented across twelve different themed areas. Great for a rainy-day activity or for families with young children.

Also convenient for the Railway Museum.

35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • kyoto-aquarium.com

Hyogo Museums

KOBE FASHION MUSEUM Japan’s first museum dedicated to the world of fashion, situated on Rokko Island, housing a large public library on its 3rd floor.

2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-858-0050

KOBE ANPANMAN CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALL Fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland area, dedicated to the surreal world of popular Japanese children’s character Anpanman. Great for young kids.

1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo-ku • Tel: 078-341-8855

Monuments and Landmarks

HIMEJI CASTLE Perched upon a hill where its towers can be seen for miles, this picturesque fortress is nicknamed Shirasagi-jo (“White Heron Castle”) because of its brilliant, white exterior and unique tower structuring.

Himeji-shi, 68 Honmachi

Shiga Museums

MIHO MUSEUM A stunning museum, designed by renowned architect I. M. Pei and located far from the crowds in the hills around Shigaraki, requires a bit of a trek to reach, but is absolutely worth it. Named after Koyama Mihoko, one of the richest women in Japan and the founder of the museum.

Shigaraki, Tashiro Momodani 300 • miho.jp

10 Uzumasa Higashihachiokacho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto • toei-eigamura.com

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What’s On  Art & Exhibitions Kyoto BUDDHIST ART AS A LIVING THING

立石紘一《哀愁列車》1964 年 高松市美術館 © Tiger Tateishi Courtesy of YAMAMOTO GENDAI

SUGAR POT, MEISSEN, 19TH CENTURY

Heroes and People in the Japanese Contemporary Art Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art • Until Mar 17

Western Antiques

Spanning works from the early 20th century to today, this exhibition juxtaposes depictions of heroes and everyday people. Works from popular culture and non-traditional media will be on display— mediums such as photography, painting, manga, anime, illustration, TV and film special effects, and signboards used during public demonstrations are all featured. Showcasing this wide range of art forms reveals that art can be found in the everyday, as can heroic acts done by ordinary people. Makoto Aida, a controversial but renowned Japanese contemporary artist who works across many mediums, will be featured as well as Ryuichi Ishikawa, Shiriagari Kotobuki, and Anri Yanase.

Itsuo Art Museum • Until Mar 31

In the early 20th century, Japan was in the midst of an intense and comprehensive Westernization period.

New technologies like railways were rapidly adapted as well as Western pastimes such as watching moving pictures and going to the opera. In the midst of this shift, pioneering industrialist Ichizo Kobayashi, the founder of Hankyu Railway, Hankyu Department Store, Takarazuka Revue and Toho, decided to experience Western life for himself at the source. He embarked on a journey across the United States and Europe.

While traveling, he visited many art museums and collected all kinds of items, including antiques. Itsuo Art Museum, which opened to display Kobayashi’s art collection after his death, is displaying these alongside his travel stories and musings on Western life.

Western Antiques • OPEN: 10am–5pm • ADMISSION: ¥700 • ACCESS: Short walk from Hankyu Ikeda Stn • TEL: 072-751-3865 • Guide and explanation in Japanese only • hankyu-bunka.or.jp/itsuo-museum/ exhibition/1869

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Heroes and People • OPEN: 10am–6pm (until 8pm Fri & Sat; closed Mondays) • ADMISSION: ¥1,300 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Nada Stn • TEL: 078-262-0901 • http://www.artm.pref.hyogo.jp/exhibition/t_1901

Osaka WINNIE THE POOH: EXPLORING A CLASSIC Abeno Harukas Art Museum • Apr 27–Jun 30 One of the most beloved animated characters of all time is being celebrated at this whimsical exhibition for adults and children alike. First published in 1926 by A.A. Milne, tales of Winnie the Pooh have been translated to over 50 languages, sold over 50 million copies and been adapted by Disney.

Witness original sketches

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by illustrator E.H. Shepard.

Explore the character’s origins and evolution through the pictures, memorabilia, manuscripts, and letters on display. Learn about the suburban London forest that inspired the Hundred Acre Wood. Immerse yourself in the world of this adorable honey-loving bear through the eyes of his dear companion Christopher Robin. Collections have been donated by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Winnie the Pooh • OPEN: 10am–8pm Tues–Fri & 10am–6pm Sat–Mon (closed May 13, 20 & 27) • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • ACCESS: Short walk from Tennoji Stn • TEL: 06-4399-9050 • wp2019.jp

Ryukoku Museum • Until Mar 24 In a series of exhibitions, entitled “Asian Buddhism” and “Japanese Buddhism,” the museum has been presenting Buddhism’s approximately twenty-five hundred year journey, from its birth in India, spread throughout Asia, and establishment in Japanese society. This latest exhibition focuses on the birds and beasts that appear in Buddhist tales, that serve the buddhas and gods, and are depicted in Buddhist architecture. While we are usually dazzled by beautiful sculptures and paintings of buddhas and bodhisattvas, this exhibition invites visitors to shift their gaze to the colorful living things that accompany such figures.

Also, on special display is a series of paintings depicting the life of the Buddha by the nihonga Japanese-style painter Nosu Kosetsu (1885– 1973). After participating in the 1917 project to copy the Ajanta Cave Murals, in 1936 he completed a large biographical mural of Shakyamuni at Mulagandha Kuti Vihara in India.

Buddhist Art • OPEN: 10am–5pm (closed Mondays) • ADMISSION: ¥500 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Kyoto Stn • TEL: 075-351-2500 • museum.ryukoku. ac.jp/exhibition/ser.html

KYOTO TEXTILES: FROM THE 1960S TO THE PRESENT MoMAK • Mar 8–Apr 14 Kyoto is today a place equally traditional and modern. Textiles are one of the city’s ancient arts, one that continues to prevail in contemporary times. By perfecting this craft over time to adapt to advanced technology, while also continuing to weave in techniques from the past, Kyoto textiles have evolved while remaining rooted in classical methods. This exhibition features 28 textile artists from the 1960s to today who have incorporated

See Kansaifinder.com for more

What’s On  Art & Exhibitions Miyoshi Mokusho: One of the Best Joiners in Osaka in the Modern Period

LACQUER WORK COPY OF NONOMURA NINSEI’S CERAMIC CRANE-SHAPED INCENSE CASE (PRIVATE COLLECTION)

Making the Difference: Vermeer and Dutch Art Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts•Until May 12

Johannes Vermeer (1632–1675) was a Dutch painter during the Baroque Period. During his lifetime he only achieved a moderate degree of success; upon his death, his family was left in debt and his paintings faded into obscurity. His work was rediscovered in the 19th century and since then his reputation has grown. Posthumously, he is known as one of the greatest painters of the Dutch Golden Age. His paintings tend to feature sophisticated depictions of light and detailed scenes of domestic life.

Vermeer worked very slowly and carefully, so he wasn’t very prolific. Today, only 34 paintings have successfully been attributed to him. Six of these will be on display at the Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts, including The Procuress.

Portrait exhibition from the Louvre • OPEN: Vermeer and Dutch Art • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (closed March 4, 11 & 18) • ADMISSION: ¥1,800 • ACCESS: Short walk from Tennoji Stn • TEL: 066771-4874 • vermeer.osaka.jp

procedures from both the past and present into their work. Kyoto Textiles showcases various dyeing and weaving techniques of skilled artisans while portraying a comprehensive display of the art.

Kyoto Textiles • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (until 8pm Fri & Sat; closed Mondays) • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Stn • TEL: 075-761-4111 • momak.go.jp

GIGA TOWN IN TERA TOWN – A CATALOG OF MANGA SYMBOLS BY KONO FUMIYO Kyoto International Manga Museum • Until Apr 2 Fumiyo Kono is an awardwinning Japanese manga artist whose works have been adapted into television shows and films. She is known for In this Corner of the World and Town of Evening Calm, Country of Cherry Blossoms. Giga Town: A catalog of manga symbols has been created by Kono as a way to showcase mampu, symbols like musical notes, drops of sweat on someone’s face, or other such small details that add character to the illustrated stories.

Giga Town in TERA TOWN is an interactive exhibition featuring a photo spot, an area where visitors can draw and display their

Miyoshi Mokusho • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (closed Tuesdays, except April 30 2019) • ADMISSION: ¥600 • ACCESS: Short walk from Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn • TEL: 06-6946-5728 • mus-his.city.osaka.jp/eng/exhibitions/featured. html

own mampu, workshops.

There is also a drawing on display that Kono created specifically for the exhibition.

Giga Town in TERA TOWN • OPEN: 10am–6pm (Last entry 5:30pm) (closed Wednesdays) • ADMISSION: ¥800 • ACCESS: 3~5-min walk from Karasuma Oike Stn • TEL: 075-2547414 • kyotomm.jp/lp/gigatown

In all things, it seems that Nori-san’s main goal is to make his audience happy.

Noritake Kinashi • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (closed May 7 & Mondays except Apr 29 & May 6) • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: 35-min bus ride from Moriyama Stn • TEL: 077-585-7800 • kinashiten.com 《とりのうた③》2014年 © NORITAKE KINASHI

ヨハネス・フェルメール《取り持ち女》1656年 油彩・カンヴァス 143x130cm ドレスデン国立古典絵画館 bpk / Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden / Herbert Boswank / distributed by AMF

Osaka Museum of History • Mar 20–May 6 Miyoshi Mokusho (1874–1942) worked his entire life as an artisan wood joiner, creating highly detailed wooden chests, boxes and other wares for use in tea houses.

Miyoshi was highly regarded as a joiner, but he explored many other art forms, including tea ceremony, writing poetry, and making lacquerware. This exhibition will display a variety of his works, highlighting his many accomplishments in various disciplines. Included are a cigarette tray fashioned from parts of a ship that once traversed the Yodogawa, a wooden, lacquer coated copy of a ceramic crane by renowned potter Nonomura Ninsei, and many of his diagrams of and measurements that document important wooden tea wares of the era.

Shiga NORITAKE KINASHI: TIMING–LIGHT OF THE MOMENT Sagawa Art Museum • Apr 6–May 19 Noritake Kinashi is an incredibly versatile Japanese public figure, affectionately known as Nori-san. He’s a comedian, actor, musician, and artist who’s appeared in films, advertisements, and on stage for over 30 years.

He was inspired to become a painter when he played one in a comedy sketch in 1994. Since then he has participated in numerous solo exhibitions in Japan and abroad. His paintings and sketches span many genres, are very colorful, and often feature text. His works also tend to be positive, perhaps reflecting his comedic roots.

Need more Art? See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

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What’s On  Live Music RITA ORA Mar 15 British singer-songwriter Rita Sahatçiu Ora made her breakthrough in 2012 when she was featured on the UK numberone hit single Hot Right Now by DJ Fresh. Although she had already signed with a record label, DJ Fresh apparently stumbled across one of her videos on YouTube while looking for a female vocalist for his track and was impressed with what he heard. Last year saw the release of Ora’s second studio album, Phoenix, which spawned three top-ten UK singles: Your Song, Anywhere, and Let You Love Me.

The six-year gap between Rita Ora’s debut and second album was mainly due to legal entanglements with her original record label. She has since signed with Atlantic Records UK and recently commented to Billboard Radio China, “It was all these emotions, so my album is definitely a rollercoaster of emotions, but I wanted this album to also be something you could put on and vibe with your friends.

There’s a lot of ups and downs, but I’m very, very proud of it.”

British singer-songwriter & actress • Zepp, Osaka • Pop/RnB • 7pm • ¥8,000/¥8,500 • TEL: 0570-200-888

Rock & Pop

English classic rock band featuring guitarist Mick Box

LEGO BIG MORL

Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Classic Rock • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥10,800/¥11,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

Mar 7 Japanese four-piece rock band from Osaka Shangri-La, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥3,500 • TEL: 0570-200-888

THE WILLARD Mar 9 Japanese goth-pop-punk band Shangri-La, Osaka • Goth-punk • 7pm • ¥3,900/¥4,400 • TEL: 06-63438601

ALLISTER Mar 13 US pop-punk band Club Quattro, Osaka • Pop-punk • 7pm • ¥4,000 • TEL: 06-6357-4400

RITA ORA Mar 15 British singer-songwriter and actress Zepp, Osaka • Pop • 7pm • ¥8,000/¥8,500 • TEL: 0570-200-888

EARTHSHAKER Mar 17 Japanese rock band’s 35thanniversary tour Varit, Kobe • Rock • 4pm • ¥6,500/¥7,000 • Tel: 078-392-6655

URIAH HEEP Mar 19

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HILCRHYME Mar 23 Japanese hip-hop duo Namba Hatch, Osaka • Hip-hop • 5pm • ¥6,000/¥7,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888

ASIAN KUNG-FU GENERATION Mar 28 & 29 Japanese alternative rock trio formed 1996 Namba Hatch, Osaka • Hip-hop • 6:45pm • ¥5,500/¥6,000 • TEL: 0570200-888

A FLOOD OF CIRCLE Mar 29 & 30 Japanese garage rock band formed 2006 Shangri-La, Osaka • Rock • 7pm Mar 29; 6pm Mar 30 • ¥3,800 • TEL: 06-6357-3666

SABRINA CARPENTER Apr 1 American singer and actress Namba Hatch, Osaka • Pop • 7pm • ¥7,500/¥8,500 • TEL: 0570-200-888

PET SHOP BOYS Apr 2 British pop duo Osaka Festival Hall, Osaka • Pop • 7pm • ¥11,000/¥12,000 • TEL: 066341-4506

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PLASTIC TREE Apr 4 Japanese visual-kei rock band Varit, Kobe • Rock • 6:30pm • ¥5,800/¥6,300 • TEL: 0570-200-888

RINGO STARR Apr 11 Ex-Beatle and His All-Starr Band Orix Theater, Osaka • Rock-pop • 7pm • ¥15,000/¥16,000 • TEL: 06-6341-4506

MESHELL NDEGEOCELLO Apr 16 US singer-songwriter, rapper & bassist Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Singer-songwriter • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥7,900/¥8,900 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

JAKE E. LEE Apr 18 US guitarist with his band Red Dragon Cartel Club Quattro, Osaka • Heavy rock • 7pm • ¥7,500 • TEL: 06-6311-8111

SCOOBIE DO Apr 21 Japanese four-piece funk band Taku Taku, Kyoto • Funk • 6pm • ¥3,500 • TEL: 06-6357-3666

KRAFTWERK Apr 22 German 70’s electronic band

ASIAN KUNG FU GENERATION Mar 28 & 29 Formed in Yokohama, Japan, in 1996, Asian Kung Fu Generation released their first EP on a major label six years later in 2002. Influenced by western alternative-rock bands, their early songs were all in English but after signing with a major label they switched to their native Japanese.

In December of last year, the band released their 10th studio album Hometown, with a limited edition version including the EP Can’t Sleep.

Starting out as a university band of friends influenced by acts such as Weezer and Oasis with powerful and energetic guitar-driven tracks, the band has become one of Japan’s most successful rock acts. In recent years, they have also built a steady following in Europe and North and South America.

Asian Kung Fu Generation will be playing throughout Japan between March and July of this year.

Japanese alternative rock band formed 1996 • Namba Hatch, Osaka • Rock • 6:45pm • ¥5,500/¥6,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888

What’s On  Live Music

See Kansaifinder.com for more JAKE E. LEE & RED DRAGON CARTEL Apr 18 Rock guitarist Jake E. Lee is known mostly for his five-year stint with Ozzy Osbourne followed by the band Badlands and solo projects. His new band, Red Dragon Cartel, was formed in 2013 and features bassist Anthony Esposito (Lynch Mob), drummer Phil Varone (Skid Row, Vince Neil), and vocalist Darren James Smith (Harem Scarem).

Late last year, the band put out a second album Patina, and in a recent interview with online magazine Decibel, the guitarist

Osaka Festival Hall, Osaka • Electronic • 6:30pm • ¥7,560 • TEL: 06-6341-4506

said about the new release, “I wanted it done right. I didn’t want any excuses, I didn’t want to ever have to say, ‘Well, that’s good enough.’ So I approached this record like it would be my last one. Everything about this record was done as if it would be the last thing I ever do. You never know, I could be hit by a bus tomorrow.”

Jake E. Lee is undoubtedly one of the most influential guitarists around. With an already loyal following in Japan from his past projects, this will be a muchanticipated gig for fans and guitarists alike.

US guitarist and ex-Ozzy Osbourne band member • Club Quattro, Osaka • Heavy rock • 7pm • ¥7,500 • TEL: 06-6311-8111

Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Funk • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥17,000/¥18,000 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

SARAH BRIGHTMAN

SHEENA & THE ROKKETS

Apr 22 British musical and operatic vocalist

Apr 28 Guitar, drums, and bass from the 1978-formed Japanese rock band

Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Female Vocal • 7pm • ¥14,000/¥16,000 • TEL: 066341-4506

Taku Taku, Kyoto • Rock • 6:30pm • ¥4,500/¥5,000 • TEL: 075-351-1321

POLYSICS

GODIEGO

Apr 24 New Wave rock band from Tokyo formed 1997

May 10 & 11 Japanese rock-pop band famed for the track Monkey Magic

Taku Taku, Kyoto • Rock • 7pm • ¥4,000 • TEL: 06-6357-3666

FLOGGING MOLLY Apr 24 Irish-American Celtic-punk band Club Quattro, Osaka • Folk rock • 7pm • ¥7,500 • TEL: 06-6535-5569

DIR EN GREY Apr 25 & 26 Japanese visual-kei rock band Namba Hatch, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥6,500 • TEL: 06-6357-4400

AYASA Apr 27 Japanese pop-rock crossover violinist Muse, Osaka • Violin • 3pm/6pm • ¥4,500 • TEL: 06-6245-5389

GEORGE CLINTON Apr 27 US funk musician and producer

Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Rock-pop • 6:30pm/9:30pm May 10; 4:30pm/7:30pm May 11 • ¥8,500/¥9,500 • TEL: 06-6342-7722

BAY CITY ROLLERS May 14 70’s band featuring original member Woody Muse, Osaka • Pop-rock • 7pm • ¥9,200/¥18,000 • TEL: 06-6245-5389

SEKAI NO OWARI May 15 & 16 Japanese pop-rock fivepiece band Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Pop-rock • 7pm • ¥8,964 • TEL: 06-6882-1224

BLACK EARTH May 28 Current and past members of Arch Enemy Club Quattro, Osaka • Metal • 7pm • ¥8,900 • TEL: 06-6311-8111

US rock band reunion Club Quattro, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥8,500 • Tel: 066311-8111

Jazz & Blues DAVID MATTHEWS Mar 25 Legendary Trio Japan Tour featuring Eddie Gomez and Steve Gadd Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Jazz • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥7,500/¥8,500 • Tel: 06-6342-7722

SAORI YANO QUARTET Mar 27 Japanese jazz saxophonist Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • Jazz • 7:30pm/9pm • ¥5,600/¥6,000 • Tel: 06-6342-5821

JOSHUA BREAKSTONE Apr 5 US jazz guitarist with pianist Phillip Strange Bonds Rosary, Kyoto • Jazz • 7:30pm • ¥2,900 • Tel: 075-285-2859

THE MARCUS KING BAND Apr 9 American blues-rock band Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Blues-rock • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥7,500/¥8,500 • Tel: 06-6342-7722

LAUV May 28 Known by the stage name Lauv, American singer-songwriter and producer Ari Staprans Leff put out his debut EP release I Like Me Better in 2015. Born in California, the multiinstrumentalist majored in Music Technology at New York University, and he is yet another musician who has found his breaks through social media.

At the beginning of this year, Lauv announced that he would be collaborating with pop artist Troye Sivan, and they released the single I’m So Tired.

Musically, it’s hard to pinpoint a genre for Lauv. He claims to be influenced by rock, pop, jazz, dance, and electronic among others, and his music does have small elements of many genres. Lauv visits Japan to play three dates at the end of his Asia tour before heading back to the UK to play an already sold out show.

US singer-songwriter-producer • Big Cat, Osaka • Singer-songwriter • 7pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569

ALCATRAZZ May 29

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What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife March 3 (SUN)

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae) DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero

+ more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: Men ¥2,000/1D; Women & Foreigners ¥1,000/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

NOON + CAFE Bogulta presents Best Much (Experimental) LIVE: Pat Lol Man, Hyper Gal, Bogulta • DJS: Urine + more • OPEN: 6:30pm–11:30pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • WHERE: Umeda • TEL: 06-6373-4919 • noon-cafe.com

PICCADILLY Kaaze Japan Tour in Osaka (EDM) DJS: Kaaze, Taku-hero, Aki-hiro

+ more • OPEN: 4pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,500 • WHERE: Umeda • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com

5 (TUE)

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE V (Open Format) DJS: S.U, Young Easy, K, Sac + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,000/ 1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

8 (FRI)

¥2,000/1 D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6534-6635 • cafeabsinthe.jp

ALZAR Clutch (Tech House/ Techno)

ALZAR

DJS: Tomo Hachiga, Daijiro, Junichi Kuwata, Toru Ikemoto + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D, ADV: ¥2,000/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 0906960-8527 • alzar.jp

Ikareteru Elekiteru (Psychedelic Trance/ Techno) DJS: Ree.K, Kihira Naoki, Shhhhh, Saki, Altz, Yama, Piper + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 0906960-8527 • alzar.jp

CIRCUS Paypal Japan Tour in Osaka (Footwork) DJS: Paypal + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,100/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Loyal (Open Format) DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: Men ¥1,500/1D; Women & Foreigners ¥700/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

Bush 13th Anniversary feat. Evan Baggs (Minimal/Techno) DJS: Evan Baggs, Soichi, Ebo + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D (Mail RESERVATION: ¥2,000/1D, Under 23 Year OLD: ¥1,000/1D) • WHERE: Kobe • TEL: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe.jp

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format) DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun

Jazzy Sport Kyoto 1st Anniversary Cro-magnon “Cro-magnon City” & Vava “Vvorld” Release Party (Hip Hop/Beat)

ABSINTHE WORMWOOD

ACTS: Fullmoon Mondo, Seiji Animaminimal, Keisuke, Hendanshi, Gu, Tanny + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D • WHERE: Osaka, Midoribashi • TEL: 06-6155-5791 • sengokudaitouryou.com

TRIANGLE Volac Do Japan (Future House/EDM) DJS: Volac, Jacks Da Fishworks, 81Blend, Milk.Bro, Mario + Control, Yanmah + more • OPEN: 5pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,500/1D (ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6212-2264 • triangleosaka.com

10 (SUN)

ADAM LOUNGE Atg presents “Raven & Kreyn” (Future House/ Progressive House) DJS: Raven & Kreyn, Wtp, Kenji + more • OPEN: 3pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,300/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 0120-170-317 • adam-lounge.com

CIRCUS

METRO

9 (SAT)

DJS: Hasuwa, Dmitri Absinth, Takao Hibrid, Naoto + more • OPEN: 8pm–1am • ADMISSION:

LIVE: Ninesense, Prohecht • DJS: Show-Hey, Swallow Brothers, Stick, Taku + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: Men ¥1,500/1D; Women & Foreigners ¥700/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 066214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

TROOP CAFE

Enor vol.2 (Techno/Deep Tech)

CIRCUS Shadow Game vol.3 (Psychedelic Trance)

SENGOKU DAITORYO Yokai Paradise 2019 (Psychedelic Trance)

LIVE: Cro-magnon, Vava, Daichi Yamamoto • DJS: Mu-R, Gajiroh + more • OPEN: 12am • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥3,000/1D) • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

Reconsider (Bass) DJS: Andrew, Satinko, Batsu

+ more • OPEN: 2pm–8pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae) DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

Men ¥2,000/1D; Women & Foreigners ¥1,000/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

TRIANGLE Libido House 2nd Anniversary (Breakcore/ Bass) DJS: Ka4u, Saki, Oka Norio, Shaka-itchi, T4tsuya + more • OPEN: 5pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500 (ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6212-2264 • triangleosaka.com

15 (FRI)

CIRCUS Daniel Avery x DJ Nobu (Techno) DJS: Daniel Avery, Nobu + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 066241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Loyal (Open Format) DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥1,500/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

16 (SAT)

CIRCUS Hush! feat, Tennan (Tech House) DJS: Tennan, Yashima, Yuuki Yoshiyama, Eiichi Takamatsu, Mia + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

DOC SCOTT

MAR 22 (FRI) CIRCUS Doc Scott’s real name is Scott Mcllroy, but you might know him best by his Nasty Habits moniker. He’s been producing drum and bass since the early 90s and his sound—along with the records released on his label 31 Recordings—have helped define the genre. Nineties tracks like Here Come the Drumz and Shadow Boxing brought out a darker aesthetic which helped differentiate D‘n’B from jungle and pushed the genre in new directions. His label has featured some of the best artists working in the genre—maybe most famously Pendulum’s first release in 2003— but he has also released luminaries like Marcus Intalex, Ed Rush and Optical, Friction, and Calibre. Zero T is an Irish DJ/producer who has been releasing D‘n’B since 2000 collaborating with the likes of Calibre and Alix Perez. It’s going to be a night of top-notch drum and bass. Don’t miss it!

Fuse presents Doc Scott & Zero T (Drum & Bass) • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

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Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

See Kansaifinder.com for more GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format) DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun

Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥1,500/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 066214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

JOULE Heisei Saigo no Yabai Records feat. Bliss & Damage (Psychedelic Trance) LIVE: Bliss, Damage • DJS:

Hacker!!, Team Toyonaka, Double Strike, Masuda Minoru + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥5,600/1D (ADV: ¥4,600/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 066214-1223 • club-joule.com

METRO Nubera 25 feat. Cmt (House/Techno) DJS: Cmt, Kazuma, Podd + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

WEST HARLEM Sensation (Techno) DJS: Ono, Karuta, Toshiki, Suguru

+ more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 050-1016-0099 • kyotosalsa.com FACEBOOK: westharlem

17 (SUN)

CIRCUS Addison Groove x Pariah x Yosuke Yukimatsu (Techno/Bass) DJS: Addison Groove, Pariah, Yosuke Yukimatsu+ more • OPEN: 6pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,100/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae) DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero

+ more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: Men ¥2,000/1D; Women & Foreigners ¥1,000/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

20 (WED/BEFORE HOLIDAY)

CIRCUS Circus presents Junki Inoue (Electronic) DJS: Junki Inoue, Mitsuyas +

more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi

• TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

ALZAR & ROOFTOP BAR OO Walk This Way & Night Groove Special (Techno/ Bass) ACTS: Baku, Blacksmokers, Jin Dogg, Psycho Patch, Kuranaka a.k.a 1945, Naga, Ka4u, 81 blend, Giddlah Selecta, Yanmah + more • OPEN: 8pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 0906960-8527 • alzar.jp

JOULE Mighty Crown Entertainment presents David Rodigan Japan Tour 2019 Osaka (Reggae) DJS: David Rodigan, Mighty Crown + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥5,600/1D (ADV: ¥4,600/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 066214-1223 • club-joule.com

22 (FRI)

ALZAR Episode Final feat.

Amelie Lens (Techno) DJS: Amelie Lens, Farrago, D41, Dk-Baseline + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,000/1D (ADV: ¥3,000/1D, ¥1,500 with Tourist Visa+ Passport) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 090-69608527 • alzar.jp

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Loyal (Open Format) DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour

+ more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥1,500/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

METRO DJ Colaboy presents Homesick 40 (Electro/ House) DJS: Towa Tei, Tofubeats, Halfby,

Colaboy + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,000/1D (ADV: ¥3,500/1D) • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

NOON + CAFE Nu-Labo (Bass/Leftfield/ Experimental) DJS: Ena, Akiram En, Fulltono,

Coke, Namam + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • WHERE: Umeda • TEL: 06-6373-4919 • noon-cafe.com

What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife TRIANGLE

MADISON MARS

Def Distortion-Armed and Ready-supported

by Tokyo Massive Style (Hard Style) ACTS: Ran-D, Morphonics, Grindcircus, Bcm, Matres, Kiyoshi, Yuta Imai + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥5,000 (ADV: ¥4,000) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6212-2264 • triangleosaka.com

23 (SAT)

CIRCUS Chaos (House) DJS: Cabanne, Fumiya Tanaka + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE En:Core (Hip Hop/Open Format) DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥1,500/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 066214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KOBE WORLD MEMORIAL HALL Marshmello Osaka (EDM) DJS: Marshmello + more • OPEN: 5 pm • ADMISSION: ¥9,500 • WHERE: Kobe • TEL: 0570-200-888 • creativeman.co.jp

MIZU NO OTO Wonderground (New R&B/Hip Hop/Future Funk) DJS: Femq, Milez, Max Pela + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6251-2241 • facebook. com/mizu.no.oto.osaka

ROOFTOP BAR OO Law 15th Anniversary supported by Ring (House/Techno) DJS: Law Time, Yoku, Tez, Shingo, Nishito & Kvox + more • OPEN: 5pm–12am • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D (KIDS: Free) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 080-4974-4835 • oo-u.jp

SENGOKU DAITORYO Molten Sound Chapter 9 (Techno/Hardcore/ Psychedelic Rock) ACTS: Nude Tramp, Masterpeace,

Moe:t, John Lee + more • OPEN: 6pm–11:40pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D(ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • WHERE: Osaka, Midoribashi

APRIL 7 (SUN) PICCADILLY Madison Mars is the current moniker of the Ukrainian DJ and producer Madis Sillamo.

Sillamo got his start performing as Beat Service in 2008. Beat Service and his digital label Beat Service Audio focused on releasing trance tracks, but his more recent work has been future house/EDM. Since his debut in 2016 as Madison Mars, he has gone on to remix tracks by major acts like Galantis, Jess Glynn, Olivia Holt, Jonas Blue and Melanie Martinez.

He will be joined by the Portuguese duo Kevu (João Pedro & João Rosário) who have been making top quality Electro House and performing at festivals around the world since 2014. These guys are at the forefront of future house. The Picadilly Day Party Special is open to all ages, so all are welcome.

Piccadilly Day Party Special- Madison Mars x Kevu (Future House) • DJS: Madison Mars, Kevu, Taku-Hero, Youichi, Ryu-to, Kingjun + more • OPEN: 3pm-10pm • ADMISSION: SS AREA: ¥5,000, S AREA: ¥4,000, A AREA: ¥3,000 • WHERE: Umeda • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com

• TEL: 06-6155-5791 • sengokudaitouryou.com

24 (SUN)

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGE Way Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae) DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: Men ¥2,000/1D; Women & Foreigners ¥1,000/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

29 (FRI)

CIRCUS Circus presents Clap!

Clap! (Juke/Tribal) DJS: Clap! Clap! + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circusosaka.com

KOBE WORLD MEMORIAL HALL Discotheque Festival (Disco/80’s Pop) LIVE: Kool & the Gang, Chaka

Khan, Sheena Easton, Swing Out Sister + more • OPEN: 12pm–9pm • ADMISSION: ¥11,000 • WHERE: Kobe • TEL: 0570-200-888 • discotehequefestival.com

Need more parties?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

43

Food & Drink

HYOGO

Cafe Ageha JAPANESE

A perfect pit stop after a morning exploring the Kitano area, Ageha serves healthy brown rice lunch sets and tempting fruit tarts from its spacious location near the top of Tor Road.

The reclaimed wooden furniture and light fittings create a relaxing, welcoming atmosphere that attracts a steady stream of diners. We love the retro school chairs in the glass-roofed back room. Expect to queue at lunchtime.

2-4-8 Nakayamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • Tel: 078-321-2780

Osaka SHINSAIBASHI LA GOLOSETTA

FRENCH Authentic yet creative french bistro-style dining and decadent desserts.

2-17-17 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6534-6686

CURRY DEKKAO

PIZZERIA Authentic Napoli-style pizzeria serving up delicious pizzas and appetizers from its small two-storey location in Minami-semba.

ETHNIC Sri Lankan-style curries in a cosy, no frills eatery in Minamisemba. Large colorful masks highlight its 2nd floor location.

2-8-13 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6264-1225 • lagolosetta.web. fc2.com

3-8-5 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4963-3746

TOFU SORANO

OSAKA CHAKAI

JAPANESE Enjoy creative tofu dishes and izakaya favorites in this sleek Japanese restaurant featuring a modern, minimalist interior.

Choose your favorite premium rokucha green tea and have it freshly ground for you at this stylish cafe serving green tea drinks and desserts in Minami-morimachi.

4-5-6 Minami-kyuhojimachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6120-0644 • foodgate.net/ shop/sorano.html

1F 2-1-25 Tenjinbashi, Kita-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6755-4789 • www.osakachakai.jp/eng

CAFE

PIZZERIA DA TIGRE

WAD

TOKI NO HA Delicious bowls of noodles and freshly steamed dumplings are the main draw at this chinese tea emporium run by the same owner/chef as Kuushin.

CHINESE

COCOWELL CAFE

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-15-10 • TEL: 06-65437071

JAPANESE Healthy, coconut-laced lunch plates and desserts are the focus of this all-day dining eco-friendly cafe in Horie.

Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-13-21 • TEL: 06-65315572

BASE ISLAND KITCHEN This tiny counter-only restaurant serves up an eclectic mix of delicious tapas ranging from vegetarian and vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk Chicken! Open until 5pm daily.

ETHNIC

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-16-27

4-9-3 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4708-3616 • wad-cafe.com

LA FINESTRA

1-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 066535-8624

KUUSHIN

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-14-20 • TEL: 06-65678403

ITALIAN Spacious open-plan restaurant offering pasta and other Italian dishes near Orix Theater.

1-33-8 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6606-9016

LA BELLE VIE

44

CHINESE Choose from daily A or B set lunches or an evening course of creative chinese cuisine at one of the tastiest chinese restaurants in Osaka.

Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-7729

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

BISTRO NEW ORLEANS

Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 066532-6001

Choose your dish by its country of origin, in this comfortable restaurant that serves up everything from Vietnamese pho to English Shepherd’s Pie, depending on the day of the week.

CAFE This cafe and art gallery serves traditional Japanese green tea in beautiful ceramic dishes.

Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-6 • TEL: 06-6556-6682

Authentic New Orleansstyle restaurant, serving up Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location.

A down-to-earth pizzeria serving up a tasty range of authentic, sensibly priced Napoli-style pizzas. Pizzas are ordered via a ramen shop-style ticket machine. Sit at their u-shaped counter or takeaway.

ITALIAN

sauces are handmade with the freshest ingredients.

TABIJI KITCHEN ETHNIC

CRAFT BURGER Run by a friendly Aussie expat and his wife, Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which the patties, buns, and all their AMERICAN

AMERICAN

SAUCE BOSS Serving up mouthwatering chicken wings in a huge variety of flavors, with craft beer and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down.

AMERICAN

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie, 1-5-13 • TEL: 06-71717938

AN NGON An Ngon certainly lives up to its name, meaning “it’s delicious” in Vietnamese. The cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other Vietnamese decorations and boasts an extensive menu.

ETHNIC

4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6282-4567

CAFE ABSINTHE Stylish Mediterranean restaurant and bar serving craft cocktails, and excellent food, including hummus, falafel and babaganoush.

ETHNIC

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-2-27 • TEL: 06-65346635

PAPRIKA SHOKUDO Vegetarian/vegan restaurant serving creative JAPANESE

Food & Drink

See Kansaifinder.com for more meat-free dishes - so flavorsome you could swear you were eating meat sometimes!

Shinmachi 1-9-9, Nishi-ku • TEL: 06-65999788

EL PANCHO Serving up authentic Mexican fare since 1978, El Pancho offers great value combo plates and a happy hour that runs from 11:30am–5pm daily!

MEXICAN

Shinsaibashi Tower Bldg. 8F • TEL: 066241-0588

ALI’S KITCHEN Halal-certified Pakistani and Arabic cuisine, with over 200 menu items, including their popular goat brain masala and signature biryani dishes.

ETHNIC

B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4708-5745

SATURDAYS NYC CAFES AND TEAROOMS Laid-back, spacious cafe cum boutique with a large island counter to recharge both your laptop and your senses.

4-13-22 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4963-3711

TAVOLA 36 Occupying the 36th floor of the Swissôtel in Namba, this upscale restaurant serves an excellent buffet lunch and offers some fantastic views over the city day or night.

ITALIAN

5-1-60 Namba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-66465125

MURPHY’S IRISH PUB Japan’s oldest Irish bar and proud to provide the cheapest full pint in Osaka, Guinness and Kilkenny direct from Ireland, and a comprehensive selection of whiskeys and spirits.

BARS

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-Suji 1-5-2 2F • TEL: 06-6245-3757

THE BLARNEY STONE Irish pub in the heart of Shinsaibashi with live bands, great food and international staff. Happy Hour until 8pm.

BARS

Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-5-27 Koda Bldg.

B1F • TEL: 06-6468-2220

OSAKA

Casual Kappou Iida KAPPOU

This nine-seater casual kappou restaurant is run by the ambitious twenty-something Iida-san who has some serious culinary talent. Here, you can enjoy exquisite Japanese cuisine served in multiple courses, like a mushroom and seaweed starter, various kinds of sashimi, a hot oyster soup, and recommended nihonshu pairings for each dish. The chef banters with you throughout the meal and sends you off with a homemade onigiri rice ball at the end. To make sure you can get in, it’s a good idea to make a reservation.

1−1−1 Uehonmachi, Tennoji Ku, Osaka • 080-2423-4590

SUSHI KAIBA Marrying a modern Japanese interior with authentic nigiri-zushi, Kaiba sets the standard for casual sushi dining.

Choose from set courses or a la carte.

JAPANESE

Kitahorie 1-15-22 • TEL: 06-6532-2918

THE SUITE WINE AND COCKTAILS Modeled after a 1920s New York hotel suite, this place is as suave as it gets and the perfect spot for some postdinner cocktails. Featuring live entertainment every weekend on its chandelier-lit stage area.

BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY (KITAHAMA) CAFES AND TEAROOMS Great coffee and relaxing decor at this wonderful riverside location in Kitahama, overlooking the Central Public Hall.

2 Chome-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6125-5740

TENNOJI COCOMOMO&CO.

Chuo Ward, Nishishinsaibashi, 2-18-18 • TEL: 06-6282-7742

Wholesome fusion cuisine in Tennoji serving up Mediterranean, Asian and British favorites and tempting cakes and desserts. Great for vegetarians, vegans and families.

ZERRO

Abeno-ku, Matsuzakicho 3-6-2 • TEL: 06-6624-8323

BARS Popular Shinsaibashi bar with live DJs every weekend and no cover charge. Great food, cocktails and international beers from 500 yen.

ETHNIC

TIN’S HALL

UMEDA

A perennial favorite for many expats, serving good bar food and drinks. Look out for happy hour from 6–9pm where a beer and generously sized burger combo is just 1,000yen. Free live music on Saturday nights.

BEER BELLY

Tennoji Ward, Minamikawahoricho, 10−3 • TEL: 06-6773-5955

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2 • TEL: 06-6211-0439

CRAFT BEER BARS Osaka’s local award-winning brewery, Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in Higobashi. Serving seasonal brews as well as its regular lineup on tap, including its award winning stout and decent bar food.

Nishi-ku, Tosabori 1-1-30 • TEL: 06-64410717

PIERRE The InterContinental Osaka’s 20th floor Michelinstarred restaurant features a seasonal fine dining menu in sophisticated surroundings.

FRENCH

3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku • TEL: 06-63745700

OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE Australian-themed steakhouse chain, serving up juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood.

AMERICAN

Kita-ku, Dojima 1-6-20 • TEL: 06-6457-7121

HARDROCK CAFE International chain offering authentic American favorites – including its famous burgers and smokehouse sandwiches – and live music on the weekends.

AMERICAN

BARS

DARUMA No frills, kushikatsu (deep-fried battered meat and vegetables on sticks) dining in front of Tsutenkaku Tower.

Remember the golden rule when reaching for the sauce – no double dipping!

JAPANESE

Osaka, Naniw-ku, Ebisucho-higashi 2-3-9 • TEL: 06-6645-7056

ZUBORAYA One of Shinsekai’s iconic restaurants. Look for the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair.

Whatever form of blowfish you can imagine, Zuboraya has it at an affordable price.

JAPANESE

Naniwa-Ku, Ebisu-Higashi 2-5-5 • TEL: 06-6633-5529

AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARK Airy two-storey trattoria serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated Tenshiba park area. Good choice for families with children.

ITALIAN

5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji-ku • TEL: 06-6773-2225

3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6120-5711

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

45

Food & Drink

KYOTO

Gomacro Salon VEGAN

Gomacro is paradise for sesame fans. Everything on the menu—including drinks and desserts—is sesame-based.

As well as being vegan, the focus is on healthy and seasonal food. The restaurant uses no processed sugar or chemical additives. A selection of four lunch sets is on offer—a burger, curry, ramen, and a macrobiotic vegetable plate—each of which can be ordered with a drink and small dessert. The ramen is made with soy milk, sesame, and miso, creating a delectably rich, creamy sauce.

67-3 Shinmeicho, Nakagyo ward, Kyoto • 075-257-5096

Kyoto SPICE CHAMBER Counter-style curry restaurant serving up fiery Indian-style curries, accompanied with homemade pickles.

ETHNIC

1F Fukui Bldg., 502 Hakurakuten-cho, Muromachi-dori, Ayanokoji-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku • 075-342-3813 • spicechamber.com

ROCK BAR ING A stalwart of the Kiyamachi bar scene since 1998, this small but cosy rock’n’roll bar promises good times, cheap beer and great music.

BAR

288-201 Minami Kuruyamacho, Nishi Kiyamachidori Takoyakushi-Agaru, Nakagyo-Ku • Tel: 075-255-5087

BEER KOMACHI CRAFT BEER BARS A small izakayastyle dining bar with seven taps of Japanese craft beer and a good sake menu to boot. Serves excellent food.

444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-746-6152

KYOTO BEER LAB CRAFT BEER BARS A cosy brewpub run by Kyoto’s own ChaBeer Brewing Company, offering some rather unusual beers, including its American Hopped Green Tea Pale Ale, infused with green tea grown in nearby Wazuka-cho.

Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201 • TEL: 075-352-6666

46

MILTON’S KYOTO Cosy hole-in-the-wall 8-seater bar run by Englishspeaking local artist, Milton.

A huge choice of liquors to choose from, including a good range of rums and whiskies.

Non smoking.

BARS

Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F

UMENOHANA KARASUMA

and other vegetarian-friendly options available.

HONG KONG SWEETS CAFE TIM MA MA

15-2 Tanaka Kamiyanagicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-712-1856 • www. falafelgarden.com

CHINESE Delightfully retro interior and authentic Hong Kong-style chinese tea and desserts, served at tables labelled as Hong Kong metro stations.

Hyogo UNDERGROUND BAKERY

3-1-16 Sannomiyacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-3530 • tim-ma-ma.com

BOND

Tofu in all its forms and variations, coupled with seasonal vegetables and presented in a stunning fine dining setting.

English menu available.

Scones, brownies, Victoria sponge cakes - this little bakery is a homage to British baking, but sells out fast.

Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West 18 Bldg. B1F • TEL: 075-254-0566

5-1-1 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • ugbakery.com

A spacious, sleek open plan interior serving up quality pasta dishes and trattoria-style mains just in front of the Mosque in Kobe’s Kitano area. Their chocolate tart with mountainsansho is a real treat.

KATSUKURA SANJO

BAAN THAI

JAPANESE Grind your own sesame seeds at this stylish chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants. Great value set meals including all-you-can-eat rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the original store.

THAI Popular Thai restaurant tucked away near Ikuta-jinja shrine, that offers spicy Thai favorites in cosy surroundings.

Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 3-3-5 • 078252-0052

16, Ishibashicho, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075212-3581

Tiny bakery in Motomachi drawing crowds with its impressive range of freshly baked breads and sweet treats. Get there early.

JAPANESE

KUSHIKURA

BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES

1-8-8 Kitanagasadori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-391-0545

BAKERY RIKI BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES

ITALIAN

LA TABLE DE YAMASAKI This delightful little bistro just opened in the summer and is already attracting a loyal following. Located down a small alley just off Tor Road, this stylish yet unpretentious little bistro is a real gem, serving up authentic French fare, including mouthwatering desserts.

FRENCH

Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 2-14-2 • 078-335-7813

Charcoal grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables dishes served in a beautiful 100-year-old traditional kyo-machiya house.

2-7-4 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-392-8585

584 Hiiragi-cho Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075213-2211

INDIAN Upscale

authentic Indian dining with a warm spacious atmosphere, popular with Kobe expats.

Need more dining options?

2-2-9 Yamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-0252

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

JAPANESE

FALAFEL GARDEN ETHNIC Laid-back

Israeli cafe and restaurant near Demachiyanagi. Authentic falafel

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

SONA RUPA

FOOD & DRINK

French Dining with an

Osaka Twist

Maître Renard serves fine French cuisine created from organic local ingredients with a cheeky nod to Osaka.

TEXT: KS

PHOTOS: JASON HAIDAR

T

he first hint of Maître Renard’s salute to its Osakan customer base is printed on its menu.

Two of the three course options, “Menu Maido” and “Menu Ookini,” are named after the warm greetings of thanks in Osaka’s unique Kansai-ben dialect. The third and fullest course on offer is called simply “Menu Osaka”—a wink to all those die-hard foodies ready to eat till they drop, as the famous Osakan mantra of kuidaore (meaning “eat yourself bankrupt”) reveres.

However, the Maître Renard dining experience is perhaps more refined than the average Osakan might be used to. In an intimate dining room whose mellow diffused light complements the minimalist décor and soft background jazz tunes, beauty and sophistication are both in the room and on the plate.

Served on delicate, understated white and creamcolored French crockery, course dishes change weekly and ingredients shift with the seasons. One appetizer staple we sample is a takoyaki-style dish with a twist: octopus and blue cheese inside crispy mini brioche balls.

Light, airy, and bursting with flavor, they melt in your mouth, leaving you hankering for more.

Next, Kyoto- and Ginza-trained chef Hirotake Nagano serves us a colorful starter composed of a medley of fascinating organically grown pan-fried vegetables—picked straight from his own farm in Nagaokakyo, Kyoto. Red daikon radish is one, plus an assortment of turnips and three different kinds of potatoes including the pea-sized mukago—the tiniest tuber you’ll ever see. This creative all-veg stacked dish is sautéed to perfection with just the right amount of crunch.

A French blood sausage arrives—which can sound intimidating to those not used to that kind of thing—but this light, fluffy package with pork from Okinawa inside

a paper-thin crepe, dusted magenta with powdered beetroot, has exquisitely subtle flavors. Perfecting the balancing act is a dainty dob of tangy light-pink apple-hibiscus puree.

Maître Renard celebrated its one-year anniversary this January 15th. Brothers Hirotake and Kozo Nagano opened the Dojima restaurant together just over a year ago. Both born in Kyoto, trained in French cooking, and between them having worked in restaurants in Kyoto, Tokyo, and Paris, they’ve now teamed up with pastry chef Yusaku Nishikawa to create one of Osaka’s most delightful French cuisine experiences.

The restaurant is open for dinner only and Saturday is ‘family day,’ where courses are half price with a kids’ set included. Vegetarians can be catered for, as can vegans if booked at least one week in advance. They can take phone reservations in English, so ring now to book your table or email info@maitrerenard.jp.

You’ll be glad you did.

Maître Renard ADDRESS: Hatsune Bldg. 2F, 1-5-4 Dojima Kita-ku, Osaka TEL: 06-6147-633 (12pm~11pm) ACCESS: JR Tozai line, Kitashinchi Stn, Exit 3, 5-min walk; Hankyu Umeda Stn, 8-min walk OPEN: Course dining 5:45pm–7:30pm (last order); À la carte 8pm–11pm (last order) CLOSED: Sundays, 2nd and 4th Saturdays, National Holidays maitrerenard.jp/english

* Reservations required at least one business day in advance for course meals * A la carte dining not available on Saturdays

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

47

Maps & Info

Welcome To Kansai Getting Around

Taxis

The Kansai area covers the prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. There is so much to explore, so you’ll need to prioritize your time wisely. Its main travel hubs are Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed rail networks, including the shinkansen (bullet train).

On regular trains, you can travel between Osaka and Kyoto in about 45 mins, and between Kobe and Osaka in about 30 mins. If you are here on holiday, pick up a convenient travel pass, such as the Kansai Thu Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai One Pass (kansaionepass.com), to avoid having to negotiate the ticket machines. Use a website such as HyperDia (hyperdia.com) to check train times and platforms from your smartphone.

Fares start from ¥500. The drivers wearing white gloves and official hats tend to be the most courteous, but don’t expect English to be widely understood.

Have your destination name and address on hand in Japanese.

Trains and Subways There is an excellent rail network connecting all corners of Kansai. As well as JR (Japan Rail), there are numerous private railway companies servicing the area, including Keihan (Osaka/ Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/ Nagoya). Each line operates several types of train. For the fastest trains, look for the Limited Express service trains.

Be aware that Local trains stop at every station on the line, so only take them if no other type of train stops at your station.

Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto and are an extremely efficient way to get around the cities.

Tip: Pick up a Railway Network map from a major station or Tourist Information Center.

Airport Transfers To/from downtown Osaka, the most convenient option is the Nankai Rapi:t Express service (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, take the JR Airport Express HARUKA service (75 mins).

ATMs and Credit Cards If you’re using Visa, you will be able to withdraw cash at most bank or convenience-store ATMs. If you’re using Mastercard, your best bet for withdrawing money is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other ATMs in Kansai do not accept Mastercard. It is not common to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards in Japan, even for expensive purchases. Many shops and restaurants do not offer this service, so be sure to carry plenty of cash with you.

Wi-Fi Getting connected in Kansai can be tricky. Renting a smartphone or SIM card at the airport is the safest option, to connect to the internet over a 3G or 4G network.

In Osaka, you can access the Osaka Free Wi-Fi service at train and subway stations, stores and facilities throughout the prefecture.

Accidents and Emergencies Ambulance/Fire service: Tel. 119 Police: Tel. 110

Buses For out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.

48

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

GET KANSAI SCENE Kansai Scene is available from the following major outlets in the Kansai region: OSAKA

Hotels and Guesthouses Conrad Osaka, Hyatt Regency, Nikko Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Ritz Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka, InterContinental Hotel Osaka Tourist Information Centers Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Osaka), Hankyu Tourist Center Umeda, Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Namba), Kansai Tourist Information Center (KIX), Kansai Tourist Information Center (Shinsaibashi), Nankai Information Center (Namba) Shops Kinokuniya Bookstore Umeda, Kinokuniya Honmachi, Tower Records Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe

KYOTO

Hotels and Guesthouses Royal Hotel, Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Nikko Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kyoto Tourist Information Center, Kansai Tourist Information Center Kyoto, Kyoto International Community House Shops Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, GEAR KOBE

Hotels and Guesthouses Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe Portopia Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kobe International Community Center, Hyogo International Plaza Shops Junkudo Nishinomiya, Junkudo Sannomiya, Kinokuniya Kobe

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Post Office

Umeda Sky Building

Shangrila

Club Azul

Hub

Hankyu Tourist Center

Yodobashi Camera

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Grand Front Osaka / Knowledge Capital

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Dai-1 Creamy Bldg.

Herbis Steakhouse Bldg.

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Osaka YWCA

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Bank of Japan

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Museum of Oriental Ceramics Osaka City N aniw Public Hall aba shi GARB Weeks

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Mitsui Garden Hotel APA Hotel

Osaka

Science Museum

Beer Belly

Rihga Nakanoshima Inn

Mitsui Sumitomo Bank

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Library

Brooklyn Roasting Company Kitahama

Osaka International Convention Center (Grand Cube Osaka) Sumitomo Hosp.

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kitahama

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Craft Beer Base Garden

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Hooters Osaka

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Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

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shi

B Namba Shrine

MoeJoe

SHINMACHI

Maharaja Minami

Hearton Hotel

Anngon 1

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Big Beans Supermarket Hearton Mizuho Hotel Via Inn Bank Hotel Nishiohashi

bi-grace nail Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau

Saturdays NYC

Nagahori dori

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Orange Street (shopping

Big Step Triangle Chaolua

Tezukayama street) Gallery 2F

Westwood Bakers

Hotel Lions Rock The Suite

Yotsubashi line

MINAMIHORIE

Horie Park

Joule Dormy Inn Sun Hall Balabushka Ghost 4F Ultralounge Mustang Moonshine Slices Moon Tower

Ohno Memorial Hospital

Coolabah

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Zerro

Pure Osaka

Vista Grande Kaneyoshi Osaka ibis Styles Ryokan Osaka

Don Quijote

NAMBA

Pub Bar 30 2F Naniwa Sports Center

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

B

Naniwa Ward Office

National Bunraku Theater Nipponbashi sta.

BIC Camera Toho Cinemas Namba annex

MUJI/LOFT Tower Takashimaya Records Absinthe Dept. Store Solaar Swissôtel Maruzen Nankai Osaka

Jack & Queen A

Hozenji Temple Osaka Floral Inn

Visitors Information Center

Naniwa Post Office

3

Sunroute DOTONBORIHotel Osaka Namba

Kokopelli

Nankai Namba Station

Namba Oriental Hotel

Misono Building

Namba Plaza Hotel

Singh’s Kitchen Jazz Bar B-Roxy

APA Hotel

NIPPONBASHI

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Sofmap

McDonalds Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium

NAMBA -NAKA

Dormy Inn

SOEMON-CHO Burlesque B1

B1

Shimanouchi Library

Cinquecento

Fujiya Hotel

Sennichimae line

Fraser Residence

5

Bar Jaai

Vanity

Toho Cinemas Namba

Hotel Ichiei

2 Minami Police Station

HIGASHI- soma SHINSAIBASHI

Namba Hips

Little Long Beach

Naniwa Park

50

3F GS Travel

2F Murphy’s

Namba

Casa Lapichu

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Ark Hotel

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AEON MaxValu

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Kansai Tourist Information Center

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Tominaga Hospital

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Apple Store

Triangle Park

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Silver Ball Planet Cinem @rt

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Bistro New Orleans Covent Garden

Ali’s Kitchen

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KITAHORIE

MINAMI-SEMBA Arthur Murray

Louis Vuitton

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Maps & Info

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See Kansaifinder.com for more

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Mom

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Imamiya Ebisu Shrine

Imam

1

Ebisucho

iyaeb is

u

Daikokucho

Zepp Namba

D

i

C

Shitenn oji-mae Yuhigaok a

B

C

uc

hi

St a.

sai

Ma

in L

ine

D

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

51

OSAKA Tennoji

A

C

to Kyoto Imperal Palace

Hostel Mundo Chiquito Nijo Castle

Clamp Coffee Sasara

1 Hotel Okura Kyoto City Hall

Hearton Hotel

Tozai Subway Line

Yoboji Temple

Kyotoshiyakusho-mae

Sanjo

Nakamura General Store Mikane-Jinja Shrine

Nijojo-Mae

The Museum of Kyoto

Round One

Honnoji Temple Marker

Kyoto BAL

Gion Shirakawa

Nyorinin Hozoji Temple

Kyoto Art Center

to Maruyama Park

Nishiki Market

2

Bukkoji Temple Hotel Nikko Princess Kyoto

oga

Amore Kiyamachi

Kam

Hanano Yu

Kotoku Park

hijo

Gion Corner

Kennin-ji Temple Hojo Yasui Konpiragu Shrine

Daisenji Higashiyama Ward Office

Yumeyakata Gojo Gojo

Tambaguchi

3

Kyoto Gojo Hotel Shuhokaku to Kiyomizu-dera

3

Seikoro

Ichihime-Jinja Shrine

Otani Hombyo Cemetary Sumiya Motenashi Museum Higashi Honganji Temple

Shichijo

Kyoto Aquarium Umekoji Park

Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto

Kyoto National Museum

Yodobashi Camera Kyoto Railway Museum

Toyokuni-Jinja Shrine

Shosei-en Garden

Nishi Honganji Temple

4

2

Shoenji Temple er

Mibudera Temple

Kyoto-Daijingu Shrine

Shijo

Mitsui Garden Hotel

Shin-Omiya

Yasaka Shrine

Gion-S

Kawaramachi

Karasuma

Riv

Omiya

wa

Village Kyoto

Higashiyama

Sanjokeihan

Loft

Rokkakudo Temple Shounji

Kyoto Prefectural Police Station

D

to Heian Shrine

The Ritz-Carlton

Kyoto International Manga Museum

Karasuma Oike

1

Nijo

Chisaku-in Temple

Sanjusangendo

Hyatt Regency Kyoto

Kyoto Tower APA Hotel Rhiga Royal Hotel

4 Kyoto Century Hotel

Bic Camera

Kyoto Station Hotel Granvia

Rokusonno-Jinja Shrine

Imakumano-Jinja Shrine

El Inn Kyoto

New Miyako Hotel

Hotel Keihan Kyoto Grande

k Tofu

uji

Aeon Mall

Toji Sakura Terrace

Kujo

Oji

KYOTO Central

Marutamachi

B

A

Jingu-Marutamachi

Maps & Info

5

Zuirinji Temple

5

Kyoto Terrsa

Tofukuji Temple

Kyoto Brewing Co. A

52

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

B

C

Komyoin

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

Grand Prince Hotel Kyoto

Entsu-ji Temple Kamigamo Shrine

C

ICC Kyoto

L i ne

Ota Shrine

uma

Jinko-in Temple

Su bw ay Ka ras

og m Ka

r ve Ri Dori Street

Na

Shimogamo-Jinja

Daishougun Hachi Shrine Aisen-ji Temple

Kyoto Brighton Hotel

Kyoto Imperial Palace B

A

Hankyu Kyoto Line

Eggs ‘n Things

H&M

treet

Police Box Pontocho Park

Hotel Ponto

B

uto uL ine

Shinmonso

river kawa Shira Jam Hostel

Tatsumi Bridge

Gion Kaikan Kyoto Modern Art Museum

Shijo-dori

Kawaramachi

Marui Kyoto

Shoenji Temple

A

Sanjo

Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater Keihan Main Line

Tosa-Inari Shrine (Misaki-jinja)

McDonald’s Takashimaya Department Store Kyoto Daijingu Shrine

Daishogun Shrine

C

Minamiza Theater Hanamiko ji-dori

Junkudo

Shijo

Karasuma Hotel

VOU Art Gallery

Kyoto BAL

Owls Forest Ninja Kyoto Kyoto Kawaramachi OPA Zara

Higashiyama 1

Sanjo

Kitsune Kyoto UrBANGUILD

Gion-S hijo

Karasuma Oike

Tokyu Hands

Kyoto Muse

Ogawa Coffee

Nishiki-tenmangu Shrine Super Hotel

Nishiki Market

Daimaru Kyoto

Hozo Temple

Starbucks

HUB

Kamogawa Riv er

Sugi Drug Shinkyogoku

Kyoto City Tourism Association Visitor Information Hana Hotel

Qu'il Fait Bon

Kiyamachi-dori

Papa Jon's Cafe Rokkaku

McDonald’s

Karasuma

Royal Park Hotel

Sanjo-dori Movix Kyoto Loft Kyoto Game Frank's Panic Chop Shop Seiganji Temple

Inoda Coffee

Ippudo Nishikikouji

Kyoto High School

Yoboji Temple

Honnoji Temple

Cafe Kocsi

Kyonoyado Kaginei

Cocon Karasuma

D

Kyotoshiyakusho-mae

Kyoto Art Center

2

Anraku-ji, and Reikan-ji D

Hiragiya

The Museum of Kyoto

Kyoto Municipal Gender Equality Center Misayama Park

Koiyama

Hounen-in Temple

Tetsugaku-no-michi (Philosopher's Path)

C

Kyoto Hotel Okura

Smart Coffee

Rokkakudo Temple

Higashiyama Jisho-ji (Ginkaku-ji)

Yoshida-jinja Shrine

Comme des Garcons Tozai Line

Hotel Gimmond

Nakagyo Post Office

2

Yasaka Shrine

2

Kanji Museum

Hotel Sunline Gion Corner

D

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

53

KYOTO Sanjo

Shimadai Gallery

Kyoto University of Art & Design

C

Hotel Sugicho

Hearton Hotel

Konpuku-ji Temple

Hyakumanben Chion-ji Temple

B

A

Hotel Monterey Kyoto

Imadegawa Dori Street

Higashi Oji Dori S

Stay SAKURA Kyoto Nishijin

Randen Railw ays Kitano Line

Guesthouse KirinYa Kamogawa River

Horikawa Dori Street

Demachiyanagi Sta. Imadegawa Sta.

Hachidai-Jinja Shrine

Shirakawa Dori Street

ori

et

Falafel Garden

Shokoku-ji Temple

Kitano Tenmangu

1

Mototanaka Sta.

Pontocho

ori Str eet

hi D Kawai-Jinja Shrine

Stre

Oji D

Chayama Sta.

Nis

Dori

Nishi

mo

bon

Kurama-guchi Sta.

Enkou-ji Temple

Shisen-do Temple

an O

Hotel Avanshell Kyoto

oga

S en

Hirano-Jinja Shrine

Kyoto International Manga Musuem

Ichijo-ji Sta.

Kita Oji Dori Street

m Shi

Kinkaku-ji

Manshu-in Monzeki Temple

Keih

Kitaouji Sta. Daitoku-ji

Koutou-in Temple

ark aP ath gaw iP mo rag Ka

Imamiya Dori Street

Saginomori Shrine

Kyoto Botanical Garden

ka

Imamiya Shrine

Kinugasa Joshu-ji Temple

Shugaku-in Sta.

Kyoto Concert Hall

1 Rinkyuji Temple

Kitayama Dori S tre et

Matsugasaki Sta.

Kitayama Sta.

Saginomori Imperial Villa

Myoen-ji

Ta ka no Ri ve r

Kitayama

Sekizanzen-in Temple

Yusen-ji

a aw

1 Genko-an Temple

Kitano Hakubaicho Sta.

Takaragaike Sta.

Takaragaike Park

Josho-ji Temple

2

D Line entetsu Eizan D Miyake-Hachiman Sta.

Renge-ji Temple Kokusaikaikan Sta.

KYOTO North

B

A

B

A

C

D

Kitano Museum

Kobe YWCA

Kitanoseiryu Shrine

Hotel Piena Kobe

1

KITANO-CHO Kitanosaka Hosp.

Fudo z

Shiei Yamate subway line

Suwayama Park

Kobe Grocers

k oza

a

The Rock 2F

n Kita

t ee Str arl Pe Kobe Kobe Womens Mosque Junior College Kobe Meister Garden

ak terz Hun

a

ori

-d oto

am

Yam

1

1F Bistrot Cafe De Paris

aka

Migration Museum

d Roa Tor

St. Michael’s International School

2

nn

om

iya

JR

Shinko High School

Sa nn om iya

2

Sansei Hosp.

Sun City en The Harbour NHK 7F Junkudo ns Ikuta Police ka Tavern 7F e t Ikuta jinja Station OS Cinemas ma Midnight Ya Kobe Mint Kobe Hotel Monte Halal Food 5F Hermana Kobe Amalie Tokyu Tower Mickey’s Chicken REI Hotel Iznt Records ya Club 5F George mi 4F o nn Sa Tokyu Hotel iya Hotel Hands Monterey nom Tor Road San 4F Oriental SOGO Dept.

Varit Dental the b kobe 5F Kinokuniya Don Clinic Ali’s Quijote Kobe Kokusai Kitchen Kaikan Troopcafe 3F San Marui 1F HSBC e2 Plaza Village ut Vangard Ro Kobe Kokusai Center o Center Shochiku Plaza East ud Plaza ets t u t.

West ok iya ae s os nom eim Junkudo ek Sannomiya Sannadok ob a K Cine Phoenix H Palmore e Hosp. lin Kowka Holiday Inn Express Guild hin 4F ns 2F Ha Aoyama Candeo Kobe Ikuta Hotel Kobe Junior High a.

Minato Kobe City hi School i st Bank yuc e ach Hall Kobe yor uma tom k o i r u h y ma M Plaza c K a i JR Hotel Da tom Cine Libre Kobe Mo Kobe Doll Museum Mitsui Daimaru Sumitomo Dept.

Bank Higashiyuenchi Park Tokyu Oriental REI Hotel Hotel Raja Indian Kobe Luminarie Restaurant Municipal e Museum n lin a ig Ka way Sub Sa

APA Hotel

Sa

nn

om

iya

Kobe Elementary School

Daiwa Roynet Hotel

t Por

r

u ka

chi

line

San

Soraku Park

nd.

Hyogo-ken Prefectural Hall

3

Isogami Park KRAC

eki

o M Han ain aku m Li a ne

7F Kobe Legal Partners

hi

4

KIITO

in

ch J i R

To k

at om ot om

ac

aid

ter cen

4

Hotel Sunroute Sopra 3

Bo

ad

r ro

we Flo

NANKIN-MACHI

Hanakuma Park

i-m

oto

ma

M

Cafe Fish!

Nis h

KOBE Sannomiya

Maps & Info

SHINKO-CHO

Hotel Okura Kobe

Hotel La Suite Kobe Harborland

Kobe Maritime Museum Jumbo Ferry Terminal

5

Meriken park

Arthur Murray CULMENI 3F

Kobe Harborland umie

OS Cinema Harborland

54

Kobe Cruise Luminous Kobe 2

umie MOSAIC

A

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

5

Kobe Minato Onsen Ren

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental

B

C

D

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more

NARA Overview

Kizu River Yamada Sta. Ke i

Nishi-Kizu Sta.

YAGYU AREA

Kizu Sta.

YAGYU AREA

Jubei s cedar

na wa

Bus Stop

E

xp

re s

Takanohara Sta.

sw

ay

KYOTO

Ama-no-Ishitate Shrine

YAGYU-CHO The main house of Yagyu Houtoku-ji Temple

Ofuji s Well

Narayama Sta. Mausoleums Heijo Sta. Nara-Okuyama Driveway YamatoSaidaiji Sta.

Ima-gawa Stream

NARA

Masakizaka Kendo & Zen Dojyo

Ruin of Mausoleum Enjo-ji Temple

Heijō Palace remains

Yasaka Shrine

Yagyu Kaido Trail Mt. Yoshino

Nara Sta.

Ruin of The House of Yagyu

JR Nara Sta.

Iris garden

CENTRAL NARA

Touge Chaya Jigoku-dani Sekkutsu-butsu

Yuhi-kannon

Nakamura 6 Jizos Housou Jizo

Kubikiri Jizo Asahi-kannon

Kujo Sta.

B

C Chisoku-In

Tengaimon gate of Todaiji

ve

r

HIGASHI SASABOKO-CHO

Sa

ho

Ri

1

D

Shosoin Main Warehouse

West Treasures Warehouse

East Treasures Warehouse

Ryu-shou-In

Imperial Household Agency Shosoin Office

NISHI SASABOKO-CHO

1 Todaiji Nigatsudo

Ruin of Yakemon (Chumon) the gate of Todaiji Nara Women’s University

Todai-ji Karakuni Shrine (Tengu Shrine)

Hotel Tamar

Todaiji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo)

OSHIAGE-CHO YURUGI-CHO

SHUKUIN-CHO

Ruin of Saidaimon the gate of Todaiji

Guesthouse Nara Backpackers

NOBORIOJI-CHO

Nara Prefectural Museum

SUIMON-CHO

Mt. Wakakusa

Oak Hostel Nara Nara Prefectural Office

Nandaimon Gate of Todaiji

Himuro Shrine

Hall of Kofuku-ji “Chu-kon-do”

Hoku’endo

The Fifty-Two Steps

Tourist Info Center

(luggage storage & delivery service)

Sarusawa Pond

Yoshidaya

GANRININ-CHO

Nara Pickle Shop

2

Musashino

Nara Kasugano Int’l Forum Mizuya Shrine

Nara National Museum New Wings

Five Storied Pagoda

Nan’endo

Matsunoya

Kofuku-ji Main Hall

Kozen-in

(2F)

LAMP BAR

Mont-bell

Yume-Kaze Plaza Shops & Cafes

Nara National Museum

“Tou-kon-do” LBK Craft

Int’l Forum IRAKA Annex

Yoshiki-en

Kintetsu line Nara Sta.

Tourist Info Center

NARA PARK

Todaiji Museum

Isuien Neiraku Museum

NAKASUJI-CHO 2

Tamukeyama Hachimangu Kagami-Ike Pond

Kikusuiro

Shikitei Hotel Pagoda

Hitokotonushi Shrine Kasuga-taisha

Edosan Inn

Tsubomiwa Shrine

Aoba Chaya

Roku-en

Enso Bairin Tei

Wakamiya Shrine

IKENO-CHO

Ara Pond

Nara Hotel

Ukimido Pavilion Kinryu Shrine

3

3

Yuga Shrine

Kii Shrine

Meishou Kyu-Daijoin Teien Former Residnece of Naoya Shiga (novelist)

Gango-ji Gokuraku-bo

Hotel Wellness Asukaji Kuuki Cake Shop

Zutou Pyramid A

Jurin-in Temple

B

Yagyu Kaido Trail C

Kantoku Temple Fukuu-in D

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

55

NARA Central

A

WEST Japan

Maps & Info B

A

C

D

E

KANSAI 1 TOKYO

Kyoto Shiga

Hyogo Osaka

Mie Nara

Wakayama

Tot Tottor Yonago

Mt. Daisen

Izumo-taisha Shrine Izumo

TOTTORI

2

SHIMANE

OKAYAMA

3

HIROSHIMA

Shin Kurashiki

Mihara

Hiroshima

YAMAGUCHI

Kurashiki Fukuyama

Shou Islan

Shin Onomichi

Seto Ohashi

Onomichi

Hiroshima

Shin Iwakuni

Naoshima Art Island

Angel Road

Itsukushima-jinja Shrine Takamatsu

Yamaguchi

KAGAWA

Tokuyama

4

Korakuen Garden Okayama

Fukuyama Higashi Hiroshima

Okayama

Shin Yamaguchi Imabari

TO Matsuyama

EHIME

5

KOCHI Kochi

A

56

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

B

C

D

E

Maps & Info

See Kansaifinder.com for more G

H Dinosaur Museum

Ho kk aid o

F

I Katsuyama

To Ni ga ta

&

Fukui

FUKUI

1

Gujo

Tsuruga

Maizuru

ttori Sand Dunes ri

Mikata-goko Five Lakes Cycling Course

Obama

Takahama

GIFU

Kinosaki Maibara

Mt. Hyonosen

Gifu Hashima

2

Lake Biwa Hikone-jo Castle

KYOTO

Tamba

Oumihachiman

Enryaku-ji Temple

HYOGO

Sasayama

aid

Mt. Hiei

Kyoto

k To

Otsu

Kyoto

Himeji

Ako

Nagoya

SHIGA

AICHI

Mikawa Anjo

Koga

Fushimi Inari Aioi

Nagoya

n

se

an

ink

h oS

Kinkaku-ji

Uji Himeji-jo Castle Sa ny oS hin ka ns en

Suzuka Circuit

Arima Iga

Mt. Rokko

Shin Osaka

Shin Kobe

Kobe Nishi Akashi

udo nd

3

Toudai-ji Temple

Osaka

Akashi Ohashi

Nara

Sakai

Kansai International Airport

Awaji

Tsu

Osaka-jo Castle

Toba Aquarium

OSAKA

MIE

Ise Ise Grand Shrine

NARA

Awaji Island

Yoshino Naruto Ohashi

Wakayama

Sumoto

Shionoha Odaigahara

Naruto

Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)

Mt. Koya

4 Mt. Shakagatake Mt. Obako

Tokushima

WAKAYAMA

OKUSHIMA

Kumano

Hongu

Bridges

Kumanohongu Shrine

Ferries Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail

Shingu

Tanabe

Mt. Nachi

Kumano Kodo Trail

Shirahama Nachi Falls

5

Ninja Village

Nachikatsuura

Hot Springs Kushimoto

Ski Spots Beaches

F

G

H

I

Kansai Scene | SPRING 2019 | kansaiscene.com

57

scrop-coffee-roasters.com

As seen on TV

“Geisha Blend”, coffee beans, coffee gifts, coffee appliances, and more available from our official website and via Amazon

SPECIALITY COFFEE We only use the most carefully selected coffee combined with speciality coffee - which constitutes only about 6-7% of the total coffee produced across the globe.

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