Kansai Scene #151 December 2012 by Kansai Scene Magazine

I’m free. Go on, pick me up.

無料 issue 151 December 2012

www.kansaiscene.com

The steamy bath issue Feature: Sento: a heated history Travel: Heavenly Kumano Kodo and a whole lot more… + Where To Go And What To Do — Kansai listings, news, info, maps and classifieds

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Contents Features Features

The sento: Japan’s living history p08 Travel

Kumano Kodo

p10

Arima Onsen

p14

Kinosaki Onsen

p12

Tofino, British Columbia

p30

Food and Drink

Sarasa Nishijin

p16

Taka Bar

p25

COVER ARTIST: Mic*Itaya See more of Mic*Itaya’s work at his exhibition at DMO Arts in Isetan Umeda this month (Dec 12–25).

Made in Kansai

Josh Parkin Guitars

p23

Kids & Family

Spa World

p29

Listings Film & Books

p26

Events & Festivals

p34

Art

p38

Club

p40

Classical Music

p42

Live Music

p44

Business Finder

p46

Classifieds p49

kansaiscene

@kansaiscene

Kansai Scene is published monthly by Mojoprint

Enquiries

Publisher/Creative Director............Daniel Lee Editor............................................. Carla Avolio Sub-editor...............................Donna Sheffield Sales Manager............. Nicholas Despopoulos Production Manager.................. Rie Okamoto Graphic Designer..................Naomi Mochizuki Accounts Manager....................... Michiko Lee

General mailbox@kansaiscene.com Advertising sales@kansaiscene.com Tel. 06-6539-1717 Fax. 06-7635-4791 Address Osaka-shi, Nishi-ku, Shinmachi 3-5-7, Eiko Bldg. 2F Website www.kansaiscene.com

Art................................................. Tomoko Ishii Event & Festival.......................... Yuki Uchibori Film..........................................Donna Sheffield Classical..................................Michael Vezutto Live............................................ Phillip Jackson Club.................................................Terumi Tsuji

DISCLAIMER Opinions expressed herein are not necessarily endorsed by the publisher. We take no responsibility for the quality or content of advertisements. Public and private parties appproached by those claiming to work for or on behalf of Kansai Scene should call this office to confirm the truth of any such claim, especially where money may be involved.

A bit of history Kansai Scene was founded by Peter Horvath and Nishikawa Keiko in 2000 and published by Jatin Banker between 2003 – 2011. Now in its 12th year, the magazine provides articles, information and listings for the Kansai area.

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

News & Openings

Write for rights Osaka — International Human Rights Day, as declared by the United Nations, is coming up on December 9. To celebrate, Osaka’s Amnesty International Japan group 95 are holding a writing event. You don’t have to be a member to join in. If you go, you can take part in an international “write-a-thon”, speaking out about human rights abuses. It’ll also be a good opportunity to learn more about what Amnesty actually does to help people in other countries. The event is from 3pm–5:30pm at The Blarney Stone in for on the lookout Umeda, Osaka. KS is always ts and new

Got some news?

en newsworthy ev und town. openings aro ggestions to su ur Email yo cene.com editor@kansais

Email: amnesty.grp95@gmail.com Tel: Louise – 072-258-3560 www.facebook.com/ events/533618803334748

Courtesy of The Yokoo Tadanori Museum of Contemporary Art

Providing vital care for youngsters

Artist pays homage to hometown

Osaka — Inspired by a Scottish nurse and charity worker, Japan’s first hospice for children has finally opened up in Osaka. The facility, part of Yodogawa Christian Hospital, will provide a comfortable space for children aged 15 and under with lifelimiting illnesses. There are 12 private rooms, where children and their families can stay, and bright, spacious rooms where they can study and play. The facility was inspired by the work of Sister Frances Dominica, who set up a similar facility called Helen House in the UK in 1982. Sister Dominica, who is a friend of Empress Michiko, visited Yodagawa hospital back in 2007. She talked with officials about setting up a hospice in Japan then, after learning that around 7,350 children could benefit from such a facility. There are now plans to create more hospices, in Kobe and Kanagawa prefecture.

Kobe — Kansai-born artist Tadanori Yokoo has returned to his roots to open a special museum and studio in Nada, Kobe. The Yokoo Tadanori Museum of Contemporary Art is a four-story museum that houses more than 3,000 works, including paintings and posters. The first floor is an open studio so you can have a nose at what he’s working on now. The second and third floors are exhibition areas, and the fourth floor will be used for special events. Around 100,000 visitors a year are expected. More than 450 people just went to see the opening ceremony, including architect Tadao Ando and writer Jakucho Setouchi. Yokoo told The Daily Yomiuri: “I want to create more pieces in my hometown in the same way a salmon returns to the river of its birth to lay eggs.”

www-new.ych.or.jp

www.ytmoca.jp/english

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Low-cost terminal takes off Osaka — Flight tickets could be getting cheaper in the future – hurray! – as a new terminal building just for low-cost carriers is now open at Kansai International Airport. Terminal 2 is currently only used by Peach Aviation Ltd, and the building was designed as a no-frills, one-story structure to keep operating costs down. There’s just two boarding gates – one for international services, and one for domestic. Low-cost airlines are still a pretty new thing in Japan, but they’ve proved popular in Europe and North America, where cheaper flights can be reserved with and without food, or seat allocations. With the new terminal in place, hopefully more airlines will follow Peach soon with a low-cost offering. Keiichi Ando, president of New Kansai International Airport Co said on launch day: “This day marks a major change in the airport model.” www.flypeach.com

Political leaks and tweets Osaka — Osaka politician Kei Yamamoto made a citizen’s arrest last month, and gained some unexpected twitter stardom, after he caught a man peeing on his poster. The man was relieving himself on a Yamamoto poster situated close to a quiet countryside road, when Yamamoto co-incidentally drove by. He first politely asked the man to stop, but when he got a curt reply, took further action by calling the police. Embarrassingly for him, the guilty man turned out to be an employee of Osaka City Hall. This lead to Yamamoto’s popular twitter update: “I have just returned from the police station where the police are investigating a civil servant who was caught urinating against my campaign poster.” He also added, “Had it not been my poster, I probably would have laughed, too.” @keiyamamoto0312

Text tsunami alert plans Xmas and New Year revelry Kansai — There’s no shortage of places in Kansai to enjoy Christmas and welcome 2013, but for those who want to fill up on food or party the night away, here’s a few lively choices. Absinthe Solaar (www.absinthe-jp. com) is serving up a Christmas Illumination course throughout December, which is ¥5,000 per person. They are also holding an exclusive Christmas dinner party, called Cocktails & Pinos. This food, drink and illuminations event will be held just four times, on December 24 and 25. Tickets are ¥10,000 per person. For reservations call 06-6633-1445. If you’d like to try a European-style Christmas dinner on December 24 and 25, Cafe Absinthe (www.absinthe-jp. com) is serving up a Greek-style turkey, mash and veg plate for ¥1,500 per person. They’re also planning a Christmas Course at ¥2,500–¥4,000 per person.

Captain Kangaroo (www.roo-bar. jp) will have live music from Frying Dutchman at their Xmas party and a countdown DJ party on New Year’s Eve. New Year’s events are also currently being planned at Coolabah (www.coolabah.jp) and The Blarney Stone (www.the-blarney-stone.com), so keep an eye on their websites. The perfect choice for hip-hop fans, Pure Osaka (http://pure-osaka.com) will have DJs, dancers and an all-youcan-drink deal all night on December 31 (¥4,500 for men, ¥3,000 for women). And the merriment doesn’t have to end on January 1. Ali’s Kitchen (www. aliskitchen.jp), home of the Brain Masala dish featured in KS August, is holding a New Year Special Buffet from 2–6 January. Please check websites for up-to-date details.

Wakayama — Wakayama’s prefectural government is planning to create an email and text tsunami warning system for residents. The system will link to underwater sensors currently being built by the Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Sciene and Technology (JAMSTEC). These sensors would monitor an area known as the Nankai Trough, just off the Pacific coast. This is a possible epicentre for a tsunami, should simultaneous earthquakes hit the Tokai, Nankai and Tonankai central and southwestern regions. If a situation like this is predicted, Wakayama residents would be alerted by text and email to prompt an early evacuation. The prefectural government, the first to use JAMSTEC equipment this way, wants to put the system in place by April 2013.

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Business matters

Creating local team spirit By Dr. Stephen A. Zurcher, Professor of Management at Kansai Gaidai University

This month we put the spotlight on Masaki Kitamura, the General Manager and founder of the professional basketball team Hyogo Storks (www.storks.jp). Basketball in Japan is an evolving proposition. As opposed to China and the USA where local basketball is highly regarded, you won’t find Japanese basketball on the top page of Yahoo Japan sports. One issue facing the growth of the sport is a dual league system - comprising the Japanese Basketball League and Basketball Japan - that is confusing to fans. Despite the difficulties, the Hyogo Storks have attracted a passionate fan base, the majority being women in their early 30s. As part of his 11-man team, Kitamura has recruited two foreigners (William Knight, pictured below, from the USA and Michael Leiffers from Canada) and six Hyogo players, which has given the Storks a thriving family-oriented local fan base. In the midst of a season that has seen the Storks win first place results, KS chats to Kitamura about how he started the team and how he is ensuring they all keep scoring goals. KS: Tell me about your interest in sports management. Kitamura: Sports has a big influence on people, especially the young. Recently, there are not many heroes for children. But as long as a local sports team is close by, children can come to see players up close who can become their heroes. This helps the children have dreams about playing sports when they are adults. If my team follows this model, then we will build the support of people in Hyogo.

qualified for the Japan National Basketball tournament that will be held in Tokyo over the New Year’s holiday. KS: Your team does not have a dedicated arena so you play in many places throughout Hyogo prefecture, including a fashion mall. Can you tell me about how you pulled that off? Kitamura: When we started the team in February 2011, I couldn’t book a regular arena so we came up with the idea of playing in a fashion mall, which was a first for the JBL. It took some doing - I had to borrow the basketball goals and the scoreboard - but in the end we were able to pull it off. During the game I had to ask the facility management to stop the glass elevators from moving up and down as that was distracting the players while they shot free throws. KS: What are the key elements of your business? Kitamura: Customer relations comes first, but sponsorships by local businesses are also important. Eighty percent of our income comes from sponsorships and 20% from ticket sales. I think it’s true for all businesses, but especially for the sport business, that success is all about people. We cannot manage this team without our fans, sponsors, the media, of course our players, coaches and my staff. This team is built on the love from these people. Dr. Zurcher is currently teaching an Entrepreneurship in Japan class for his foreign and Japanese students.

KS: How did you get the team started and why did you pick the Hyogo area? Kitamura: I started the team here in Hyogo as there was no team here previously. To get started I applied to the Japanese Basketball League (JBL) and paid the appropriate fees. It was a fairly simple process. That was two years ago. We struggled a bit as we got started in 2011 but this season we are doing well and planning on moving to division one next year. Our team just

Make a bid for a bargain By Nicholas Despopoulos, Real estate and investments advisor

When looking for a home to buy or an investment property researching foreclosed properties can produce great deals. The process includes a public auction at which anyone can participate. Only a single bid is allowed and the successful bidder must be able to pay cash. Other challenges may include finding the key, removing the current occupant or their possessions, taking legal possession of the property and handling necessary repairs and remodeling. With all this accomplished you can move in, find a renter, or prepare to sell the property

again for capital gain. There are good deals and great profits to be made by mastering the system. There are also companies that specialize in helping people find appropriate properties. If you’re new to the game and become serious about trying to purchase a foreclosed property you may want to consult with a professional. Information on available properties can be found at www.981.jp

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Torii Kiyonaga (1752–1815), wood block print

Feature

The sento: Japan’s living history Blogger and bath enthusiast David Kawabata reveals the best of Kansai’s hidden sento. Text & images: David Kawabata

When it comes to the changing face of Japan, one thing is clear: national chains of convenience stores, restaurants, and supermarkets now dominate the scene. But in this landscape of homogenized signs and buildings, a rich and ancient vein of Japanese culture can still be tapped within the steaming waters of the sento, or neighbourhood bathhouse. In the realm of Japanese communal bathing, sento sit at the bottom of the food chain; beneath the theme park-like supersento, and the luxurious springfed baths of ryokan inns. Despite their reputation as just a homely place to take a bath, sento are an irreplaceable part of

the fabric that binds local communities. They are places of healing and culture, where living history can still be experienced first-hand. Since coming to Japan in 2005, I have used sento as a way of understanding the physical and cultural geography of Kansai, and at the same time giving relief to my painful back. Ever lured by the “ゆ” symbol on a solitary smokestack, I have searched remote corners of unknown neighborhoods in a quest to document the rich variety of Kansai’s sento. Through my journey I have come to appreciate the humble sento for its authenticity. Supersento, while very

enjoyable, are an idealized Japanese landscape sold to an idealized clientele; they are as real as anything in Disneyland. The sento on the other hand is real. Though they have much in common, they are as unique as the neighborhoods they are found in. The sad thing is that many are closing - even those registered as cultural properties - and as each sento shuts its doors, a bit of Japan’s history goes too. Of the hundreds of sento I have visited, the following five are my favourites. They typify the sento’s simple pleasures yet offer an experience that cannot be had anywhere else in the world.

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Gengabashi Onsen

源ヶ橋温泉 1-5-33 Hayashidera, Ikuno-ku, Osaka • Closed Monday • 3pm–1am • ¥410 Gengabashi Onsen is a historical sento near Tennoji. The building is registered as a cultural property and dates from 1937. The granite bath is smooth to the touch in a way that could only be obtained with age, and the granite floor is a pleasure on the feet. The bath is placed in the center of the room allowing people to wash off there with a bucket instead of showering. Outside, the two models of the Statue of Liberty on the roof are a pun on the name New York, which sounds like “take a bath” (Nyuyoku) in Japanese.

Hinode-Yu

日の出湯 26-6 Nishikujyo Karahashi-cho, Minami-ku, Kyoto • Closed Thursday • 4–11pm • ¥410 Built in 1928, Hinode-Yu is hidden down a footpath a few minutes walk south of Kyoto station. It is an old Japanese wooden building that fits perfectly in Kyoto’s well-preserved cultural surrounds. Inside, the changing room feels more like a quiet temple where the aged wood floors give a bit under your feet. The lockers have vintage glass panels in the doors. In the wet section, tiles line the baths and floor, where each square is made of four perfectly aligned smaller tiles. The water here is normal, but the experience is anything but.

Tokiwa Onsen

トキワ温泉 3-129 Shinmechonishi, Sakai Closed Friday • 4:30–11pm • ¥410 Tokiwa Onsen is a natural hot spring-fed bathhouse two minutes walk from the Hankai streetcar line. Don’t judge this sento by its drab exterior or worn-down, haphazard changing room. It’s the water and the people that matter. The main bath is built like a terraced waterfall. Straight from the well, the 45°C water flows from an extra-hot shallow bath to a medium-hot deep bath. The regulars here are boisterous and friendly, which means your bath although perhaps not quiet - is guaranteed to be enjoyable.

Secret source

Tokiwa-Yu

ときわ湯 8-9-19 Mikagehonmachi, Higashinada-ku, Kobe • Closed Saturday • 4–11pm • ¥410 Toikiwa-Yu was rebuilt in the aftermath of the Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1995. The earthquake damaged numerous sentos in the Kobe area, many of which never reopened. The original Tokiwa-yu was damaged beyond repair but with encouragement from the community, it quickly reopened using a temporary prefabricated building. The building was small but served the recovering neighborhood well and is still a working sento today. There are no special baths here or natural hot spring water, but in a place like this those things are not necessary.

Muso-no-Yu

夢想乃湯 6-50 Honmachi, Wakayama Closed Wednesday • 1pm– 12am • ¥420 Muso-no-Yu in Wakayama is a bit quirky. There is a hobbit-sized door on the second floor entrance to the baths and a sign inside that says, “No Parking.” The real reason to take the trip to Wakayama is the large wooden tub filled with natural hot spring water straight from the well. This amazing spring soaks out any pain or fatigue in your body, almost like medicine. At 40.5°C, the water feels neither hot nor cold, so it’s no surprise that the name of this opaque spring water is “daydream” in Japanese.

A sento can use municipal water, well water, or natural hot spring water in the baths. The word onsen in the name of many sento in Kansai is just local nomenclature for bathhouses, and does not mean that natural hot spring water is used. This can confuse even some Japanese not from Kansai. In most prefectures, a sento’s entrance fee is fixed at ¥410 regardless of the water’s provenance. And there’s no need to disregard sento that don’t source water from hot springs - you’ll be surprised just how similar municipal tap water feels to the real thing.

About the author David Kawabata is the creator of I Love ゆ, a website about sento in Kansai. www.iloveyu.jp

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Travel

Stairway to Heaven Kumano’s hot spring nirvana is worth the climb. Text & images: Natalie Emmons

The serene beauty of the Kumano Kodo is as legendary as its history. For centuries, this network of mountainous pilgrimage routes has granted each traveller a stimulating physical and spiritual journey. The divine panoramas, the moss-covered shrines, and the ethereal stillness of the forest create an atmosphere of otherworldly transcendence. Regrettably, there is nothing like sore calves to yank you back to reality. For Kumano Kodo novices, the Nakahechi section of the pilgrimage is a great place to start. Stretching across the southern tip of the Kii Peninsula, this popular trail connects three renowned Shinto shrines known as the Kumano Sanzan. Originally used by the Japanese aristocracy, the Nakahechi route has existed for over 1,000 years. Judging by the trail’s terrain, the imperial family must have been in great shape. Don’t let nomenclature fool you. The word “trail” is a euphemism for “eternal staircase that will turn your legs to noodles.” From towering cobblestone steps to slippery muddy slopes, it’s hard to imagine how the ancestors did the entire pilgrimage in straw sandals. No wonder the ancient resting places called out “We have tofu and hot baths!” to passing travellers. Even in the midst of idyllic landscapes, you will soon be yearning for a different sort of paradise, the kind that involves a long, hot soak and a hearty meal. Luckily, there are magnificent onsen along the trail, several of which are clustered around Hongu Grand Shrine. Located roughly at the center of the Nakahechi trail, Hongu Shrine is the head of over 3,000 affiliated shrines and the ultimate goal of the Kumano Kodo. No trophy awaits you at the finish line, but a visit to the nearby hot springs is an excellent way to reward your efforts and revive your strength. A few kilometers uphill from Hongu Shrine is the charming village of Yunomine Onsen. Discovered approximately

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

1,800 years ago, Yunomine is one of the oldest onsens in Western Japan. In the past, pilgrims carried out purification rituals with water from the town’s bubbling springs. According to legend, the waters of this spiritual onsen have strong healing properties. Yunomine is also the home of Tsuboyu, the only onsen that appears on UNESCO’s prestigious list of World Heritage Sites. Located in the middle of the village, this tiny bath is housed in a cabin and available for private use. A nearby stall sells tickets for 30-minutes access to the shack. Tsuboyu is more like a rocky pit than a spacious tub and has barely enough space for two bathers. (Don’t be surprised if the water is scalding; just mix in cold water from the tap to adjust the temperature. The ancestors won’t judge you for it.) After you finish your turn, there is a 90-degree hot spring where you can cook eggs and vegetables. A short hike south from Yunomine is Wataze Onsen, another rural hot spring village worth noting. Also referred to as Watarase Onsen, this town is known for having the largest open-air bath in

Western Japan. Paved with stone and surrounded by mountains, this giant onsen is a magical place to recuperate. If you prefer something more isolated, the private open-air baths are perfect for couples or small groups. Each Kumano onsen has something unique to offer, but Kawayu Onsen is the most magical. Its bubbling springs run parallel with the Oto River allowing the two water temperatures to mingle. By digging into the riverbanks and letting hot spring water seep through the rocks, you can create your own personal hot tub. Even the ducks appreciate this natural wonder by darting back and forth between the two temperatures, their feathers quivering at the sensation. In the winter season, a giant bath is sculpted to accommodate more people and eliminate the task of digging. This Sennin-buro, (literally, “1,000-person bath”), is free of charge and open 16 hours per day. On special occasions the bath is lit with bamboo lamps. Once you step into the soothing water and watch the steam rising into the night sky, you won’t ever want to leave.

Although buses access all of the Kumano onsens, the hot waters are best enjoyed after a long hike. Being an avid hiker, I generally overestimate my abilities. Don’t make the same mistake. It’s important to be prepared by making reservations, checking bus times, and accurately assessing your physical condition. Though you can travel at your own pace, the trail is often challenging and has dramatic inclines and declines. Fortunately, with glorious hot springs on the horizon, every step brings you closer to paradise.

Ways & Means • JR limited express trains service KiiTanabe station • Buses from Kii-Tanabe stop at various points along the Nakahechi trail • For maps, accommodation and other information see the excellent website: www.tb-kumano.jp/en

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Kinosaki Onsen

Hyogo

Kyoto

Shiga

Arima Onsen

Osaka

Nara

Mie

Wakayama

Travel

Memorable getaway

Yunomine Onsen

Casting off your city clothes - and slipping on a yukata and pair of geta - is the first step to relaxation in this perfect onsen town. Text and images: Esperanza Urbaez

As far as first-time onsen experiences go, mine went surprisingly well. I was in the town of Kinosaki in north-east Hyogo, steeping in the mineral-rich water of a romanesque-inspired bathhouse. Finding myself nude with my Mongolian exchange student and her host mother would have been mortifying under normal circumstances, but I was surprisingly relaxed. Sitting in steaming water while surrounded by cold air was deliciously invigorating, and the calm atmosphere of women chatting dissipated any shyness over being naked. After the bath, donning yukata robes and geta sandals, we enjoyed a dream-like stroll along the willow-framed river running through Kinosaki. Since that day, “onsening”, as I like to call enjoying hot springs, has become one of my favorite things to do in Japan. After

onsening everywhere from Hokkaido to Yakushima, I can say with confidence that the site of my first onsen, the town of Kinosaki, is the perfect hot spring getaway. Located east of Kyoto on the Sea of Japan coast, the famous onsen resort has 1,300 years of history dating back to the Heian period. This means it has much more to offer than only hot baths. With narrow, shop-lined streets, striking mountain views, and local delicacies, it’s a must-visit for anybody looking to relax or to experience the romance of classical Japan. And being only a couple of hours from Kyoto and Osaka, it can be tailored to suit a leisurely weekend or in-andout daytrip. Founded in 717 AD by a priest named Douchi-Shonin, Kinosaki has a rich and magical history. According to folklore, Douchi-Shonin prayed for 1,000 con-

secutive days, causing hot springs to gush from the ground where the Mandara bathhouse stands today. Over the years, the town has attracted well-known artists, writers, and calligraphers, including the famous author, Shiga Naoya, whose stay at Kinosaki inspired his short story Kinosaki Nite (In Kinosaki). Today, visitors to Kinosaki usually stay overnight at one of the many ryokan inns. These provide a traditional Japanese dinner and breakfast; yukata and geta; and free access to the town’s seven onsen. It’s tradition to visit every onsen, as each has uniquely lucky features. For example, Kouno-yu bathhouse is said to bless visitors with its healing powers. One of the best things about Kinosaki is that it can be enjoyed at any time of year. Hitomi Taoka, whose family has owned Mikuniya Ryokan for over 100

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

years, says she loves the cherry blossoms that bloom at every turn in spring, and the summer fireworks that make the night sky and river sparkle. During the October autumn festival, the streets come alive with lantern parades and groups of men in traditional clothing who clash with one another in a ritual battle. And in the height of the busy winter season, nothing beats a hot onsen bath after a day’s walk along snow-covered streets. Winter is also the season for crabs, the local delicacy for which Kinosaki is famous. The most popular is Matsuba, a large male crab found along the Tajima coastline, that is pure indulgence when eaten freshly caught. Visitors can also taste beef from Tajima (the province from where all the world-famous Kobe beef cows originate) either at their ryokan or at a restaurant in town. Miki Okesho, whose family fish and restaurant business has been in Kinosaki for 40 years, also recommends Kaisen donburi, raw fish on rice, at her restaurant Kaichuen. The town’s small size means it’s possible to take in all the sights in a few hours. But for the best experience, take

a meandering stroll into the smaller side-roads to find quaint restaurants and shops. There is much to discover, like an old-fashioned arcade shop with purikura boxes, pinball games and retro toys on its shelves; a British pub; and the homey Sorrella Café that sells scrumptious homemade chocolate brownies and café lattes. “I really love my beautiful town, which has four wonderful seasons,” says Juri Ota, who three-and-a-half years ago opened Sorrella Café next to her grandmother’s 60-year-old omiyage souvenir shop. “We can enjoy great foods like fresh fish because we have great nature.” Those who enjoy adventure will love the activities in Kinosaki’s surrounding Tajima region. A cable-car ride gives a spectacular view of Kinosaki and the Sea of Japan, and the walk back down is a thoroughly enjoyable way to see the area’s beautiful nature. Taoka, the ryokan owner, recommends getting up early and hiking up Mount Kuruhi to see the amazing “sea of clouds” at sunrise. Beautiful sunrises and sunsets can also be seen by the grand Maruyama River, which runs by Kinosaki. “You can go down the river

by canoe, and in winter you can skate by the river,” says Okesho, owner of Kaichuen restaurant. Hiring bicycles (they come in electric too) is the best way to explore what the Sea of Japan coast has to offer, which includes white sand beaches and the entertaining Marine World aquarium that holds dolphin, penguin, seal, and sea lion shows. Whether you are an onsen novice or expert, Kinosaki will undoubtedly be a favourite destination.

Ways & means: For bicycle renting and assistance in finding last minute accommodation, visit the Kinosaki tourist information center, located to the left of the train station. wwww.kinosaki-hotsprings.com

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Travel

Make it an Arima day If you want the real onsen experience but are short on time, one of Japan’s oldest hot spring towns is just a day trip away. Text: Carla Avolio Images: Arima Hot Springs Tourism Association & Buddhika Weerasinghe

A charming village only 30 minutes from the heart of Kobe, Arima Onsen is one of Japan’s oldest hot spring towns, with over 1,300 years of history. Legends have it that emperors, revered monks, and daimyos have been visiting Arima since the 6th century, seeking rejuvenation in the famed mineral springs. For today’s visitors, the most popular activity is still to enjoy a soak in the spring-fed baths dotted across town. But be warned: hot water can be stressful for the body, so authorities recommend a maximum of three baths per day and avoiding alcohol beforehand. So to get the most out of your day at Arima, here’s the battle plan: Find two or three baths you want to visit, intersperse these with sightseeing activities, then wind down with a drink at the end of the day.

Arima’s compact layout means it can be explored entirely on foot, so it’s a breeze to take in the local museums, temples, hot spring sources, parks and shops. Just make sure you visit the tourist information office to pick up the Kobe Welcome Coupon brochure, which contains excellent discounts for many of Arima’s services.

Bathing The healing power of Arima’s hot springs is legendary. Indeed, Japan’s Ministry of the Environment states that the water contains seven out of the nine ingredients said to be effective in treating medical conditions. The most economical way to experience this is to visit the town’s two public baths, which feature the two main types of hot spring water. Kin no yu is home of the “golden” or kinsen water, which is stained a rich

orange from large amounts of iron. The bathhouse (8am–10pm, ¥650, 20% off with a coupon) has two piping-hot pools – 42°C and 44°C. It’s wise to enter these hot baths slowly. Outside, a large foot spa can be enjoyed free of charge and you can fill your bottle with medicinal drinking water from the Taiko Hot Spring. A 10-minute stroll down cobblestone streets leads to the “silver” or ginsen waters of Gin no yu (9am–9pm, ¥550, 20% off with coupon). Here, visitors can enjoy soaking in a crystal-clear pool set against a wall of smooth river stones, or relaxing in a fragrant wooden steam room. Bathers can experience water from both carbonic acid and radium springs. Many hotels and ryokan also open their baths to the public. For utter luxury try Goshobo – one of Arima’s oldest ryokan – where the bath flows from indoors to outdoors. Only a partial wall

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Arima Cider Teppo Water

separates males and females, so couples can chat while remaining modestly submerged in the orange kinsen water (11am–2pm, ¥1,575 includes face towel). Arima Grand Hotel is the quintessential onsen hotel experience. Guests lounge around in yukata robes day and night. This 228-room hotel is great for groups; friends can spend a day in the hotel’s numerous baths, and then top it all off with a round of karaoke (10:30am– 9pm, ¥3,500, including ¥2,000 credit redeemable for food in hotel; reservations essential for karaoke).

Sightseeing You’ll need at least two hours rest between baths, so why not cool off in the museum- and temple-rich area that lies between the two public baths. Taiko no Yudonokan (9am–5pm, ¥200, 50% discount with coupon) houses the actual bathtub used by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the 16th century ruler who famously loved Arima. Onsen-ji Mishoshi-an (9am–5pm, ¥100) explores the history of Arima and the important figures who helped the town develop. Directly opposite Kin no yu, the Arima Toys & Automata Museum (9:30am–6pm,

¥500, up to 50% discount with coupon) is a wonderland of European wooden toys that kids will love. If you don’t mind braving the cold, take a walk to the several hot spring vents scattered around town. See steam dramatically rising from Tenjin Spring or, in the south-east of town, feel cold water gushing from Tansan Spring, from which water is drawn to make Tansan Senbei crackers.

Eating and Drinking Tansan Senbei – strangely named “Carbonic Acid Cake” due to the use of carbonated spring water – are a light, delicious treat that, together with Arima cider, are the town’s signature items. For something a little more substantial, Bar Nurnberg opposite Kin no yu sells snacks such as sausages and thick, handcut chips. Finally, enjoy a drink at the end of the day at Sake Ichiba, a cosy standing only bar on the main street where around 50 wines, beers and sakes are sure to keep you warm long into the night.

No trip to Arima is complete without a taste of the town’s signature drink – Arima Cider. The elegant, clear bottles, with the retro metal cap and label depicting a cannon, are stocked in fridges everywhere in town, including the public bathhouses. Unlike the traditionally apple juice-based ciders from Europe, Japan’s ciders are clear and non-alcoholic, with a taste and fizziness most similar to Sprite. The bubbles in Arima Cider are known to pack a punch. It’s said that back when the bottles were sealed with corks, the drink’s carbonation would make them pop open like cannons. As arguably Japan’s first cider, Arima Cider has its origins when townsfolk began drinking from the local spring by adding sugar to the naturally salty water. Today, although Arima Cider no longer contains onsen water, it’s still a fine way to quench your thirst after a hot bath.

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Food and drink

History on a plate Love cafés but tired of the same old? This former sento will reawaken your imagination. Text: Carla Avolio Images: KS

Finding a truly unique café can be difficult these days. So many have the mass-produced comfort of the Starbucks/ Hollys franchises, or are intentionally sterile with hard seating to ensure a fast customer turnover. That’s why I love Sarasa Nishijin – a Kyoto café that’s been cleverly installed into the shell of a grand 1930s Japanese bathhouse, or sento. The original structure and interior features have been reworked to great effect, resulting in a unique establishment that’s visually stunning and steeped in history. The first thing you notice about Sarasa Nishijin is the magnificent wooden building, which is located on a quiet street about 10 minutes from Kuramaguchi Station. The wide, two-story structure is in its original form and features the decorative curved roof characteristic of Buddhist temples and used as an architectural element in many traditional sento. Inside, however, is the real revelation. The front section, which would have been the old bathhouse changing rooms, has been converted to an airy space of dark wood set against cream walls, made cosy with bookshelves and a mix of comfortable couches, small tables and chairs.

Beyond this and up four steps is the café’s piece de resistance – the striking room where bathing and showering would have taken place. The walls of this cavernous space are lined with floorto-ceiling antique majolica tiles, whose floral and geometric patterns in pink, blue, green and cream create a visual feast. Many bathhouse original features have been blended into the café décor, including mirrors, large tiled basins and grandfather clocks. A big chunk of the wall that would have separated male and female bathers has also been retained, and there are still marks in the tiles showing where taps were inserted for showering. There’s no denying the atmosphere created by these lingering memories. Over a mug of hot tea, one can almost hear the chatter of women, the cry of babies, and the splash of water in thick, steam-filled air. The sento theme doesn’t extend further than the café’s design. Besides the onsen tamago served atop spaghetti carbonara, the menu has no particular focus – ranging from omelettes, salads and rice dishes for starters to a steak-heavy selection in the mains. Curiously, vegans are catered for with a separate menu of green salad,

Okinawa noodles and donburi. There’s also a reasonable lunch or homemade cake set, both for ¥900. The drinks menu comprises a small range of spirits, homemade sangria and strange beer cocktails (Kahlua and beer, perhaps?). But that’s no matter; cocktails in whatever form are sure to go down a treat at the live music events that Sarasa Nishijin hosts twice a month. At these informal gigs, regulars say the acoustic sounds reverberate beautifully off the venue’s high ceilings and tiled walls. A funky café imbued with life from a bygone era – history doesn’t get much tastier than this.

Café Sarasa Nishijin • Where: 1-1-1 Murasakino Higashifujinomori-cho, Kita Ward, Kyoto, 603-8223 • Tel: 075-432-5075 • Open: 12–11pm; lunch 12–3pm; dinner 6–10pm www.sarasan2.exblog.jp

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Kansai Seen Life through the lens of Kansai based photographers

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Hinode-yu This historic sento near Toji temple in Kyoto was recently selected as a location for the movie Mother Water (2010), directed by Matsumoto Kana. Interestingly the usual brightly colored noren curtains were swapped out during filming for more subtle ones. Grab your shampoo and scrub yourself down with the locals in this fantastically retro bath house while it is still open for business. Photographs by Stuart Gibson http://stuartgibson.aminus3.com

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Language

One point Japanese Onsen and sento are great places to unwind from the stress of our daily lives and a quintessentially Japanese experience. While the washing-outside-of-the-tub etiquette is well documented and (hopefully) familiar, you may not be aware of the many types of baths you may encounter. As well as the ubiquitous outdoor rotemburo bath, you may find yourself wallowing in a mud bath (doroyu) or, if brave enough, enjoying the piri-piri tingling sensation of an electric bath (denkiburo). Taking the time out to swot up on some of the kanji below will help you identify them and further enrich your bathing experience. 露天風呂

rotemburo

outdoor bath

岩風呂

iwaburo

bath made from rocks or stones

内湯

uchiyu

indoor bath

砂湯

sunayu

sand bath

泥湯

doroyu

mud bath

薬湯

yakuyu

herbal/medicinal bath

潮風呂

shioburo

saltwater bath

足湯

ashiyu

foot bath

泡風呂

awaburo

bubble bath

電気風呂

denkiburo

electric bath

壷湯

tsuboyu

tub bath

掛かり湯

kakari-yu

rinsing water

混浴

konyoku

mixed bathing

家族風呂

kazokuburo

family bath (for private use)

Kansai Ben 関西弁 Kansai has its own colorful regional dialect. Each month we look at a new set of phrases to get you mixing it with the locals.

Really?

ほんまぁ？ (honma?) Really? (doubtful)

ほんまかいな* (honmakaina) Really!

ほんまやでぇ！(honmaiyade!) *かいな indictates a rhetorical question, and it can be used if a statement is doubtful such as: ほんなこと、あるかいな! No way (that can be true)! For more lessons see: www.kansaiben.com

海外生活日記 What is it like living in…

Italy?

Keita Oshima left Japan to help his parents’ restaurant in Milan, Italy. KS asked him all about it. イタリアで何をしていますか？ミラノで日本食レストラン“Oasi Giapponese” を経営しています。イタリア語で “日本のオアシス” となりますが、 “oasi” をローマ字読みして“日本のお味” という意味にもかけています。なぜイタリアへ？親が仕事でヨーロッパを頻繁に行き来していたのですが、明るく気さくな人柄に惹かれてイタリアで日本食レストランを開きました。僕はそれを手伝うために高校卒業後、イタリアへ渡りました。今年で５年目です。普段何語を話していますか？どんな学習方法で？厨房スタッフは日本人、ウェイターはイタリア人なので、イタリア語と日本語を半分ずつ。仕事が忙しく語学学校に通う時間がなかったため、主にお客さんとの会話から学びました。イタリアには日本語を話せる人は少ないですが、英語を話せる人は多いので身近な人に英語をイタリア語に直してもらいました。イタリアに来てから2年目位で頭の中で一切の日本語が現れず、考える時もイタリア語が自然と出るようになってから自信が持てるようになりました。イタリアに行って想定外に良かったことは？日本食レストランという日本文化をイタリアで再現する仕事に就き、改めて祖国と向き合えたことです。料理はもちろん、インテリアから音楽まで日本にいた時には漠然と周りにあったものを再認識し、取り入れる上で、改めて日本に向き合うことができました。親日家も多いこの国で、日本を愛するお客さんに囲まれて日々を送れるのはとても幸せなことです。彼らの日本に対する愛情を損なわないように僕自身も日本人であるという意識を持ち、襟を正すよう心がけています。あ、イタリアはワインが安いですよ。１本３ユーロくらいからあります。これからイタリアを訪れる方へアドバイスをお願いします。イタリアに限らずとも、その国にはなくて日本には存在するものを把握することが大切だと思います。例えば、日本文化にはお守りの種類が多いですが、イタリアには、日本ほど多くはないので折り鶴や招き猫など幸運のモチーフとして喜ばれます。日本文化を勉強してくことは、ある意味、語学学習よりも大事かもしれません。 Interview by Sophie Umeda

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Have your say

Your favourite onsens and sentos in Kansai Compiled by Ray Franklin

I usually go to Spa World in Shin-Imamiya about once a month, around 3am with my friends after the clubs close! It’s the perfect end to a night of clubbing, where we can rest and refresh ourselves before taking the morning train home. Ayaka Tagata, 22, Japan, bar staff/Univ. student

I often go with my family to our local neighborhood sento, which has a nice traditional atmosphere and sense of community. As for onsen, I really like Yurino-yama onsen in Wakayama, where you can fill jugs with natural spring water to take home. Rumiko Tomomichi, 42, Japan, travel agent

I really like Gero onsen in Gifu prefecture. I’ve been there three times on overnight trips with three different girlfriends, and it’s always worked out well for me! Here in the Namba area, I often go to Shimizu onsen behind the OPA building.

半年に一回位は近所の銭湯に行く。今まで行った温泉の中で良かった温泉は和歌山勝浦温泉かな。海も見えるし、港もあるし良い場所にあると思う。彼女を含めて７人のグループで行ったよ。温泉に行ったら、滑りやすいので走って転ばないように。

Shinji Inoue, 31, Japan, Irish pub owner

Yuuki Kobayashi, 29, Japan, restaurant manager

I recommend Kazurabashi onsen in the mountains of Tokushima, where they also have the famous vine bridge of Iya valley. I once went camping there with friends, and though we got rained on, it was cool watching a beautiful lightning storm from our tent.

I love going to Inunaki-san onsen in Izumisano, down in south Osaka by Kansai airport. It has easy access by car and I think is the best onsen in this region. At first I was very shy about getting naked in front of strangers. Actually, I’m still shy about that!

Joshua Minty, 24, New Zealand, bar manager

Ali Zaidi, 36, Pakistan, restaurant owner

近所の銭湯には月一回は行くけど、色々な種類のお風呂があるし、近所の人とも会えるし楽しんでるよ。温泉は年に一回程度、友達とグループで和歌山の白浜温泉に行くね。露天風呂から海が見えてとてもきれいで大阪からも近くて行きやすいので、もう５回位行ってるかな。

昔は清水温泉に週に二回くらい行きました。私のお薦め温泉は高知県の中村市にある海の近くの温泉です。名前は忘れたけど、サーフィンの時に友達と二回位行きました。海が見える露天風呂でした。温泉は入れ墨に厳しいので外国人には銭湯が良いかもしれません。

Masataka Morita, 29, Japan, restaurant waiter

Yoshimi Orikasa, 25, Japan, bar staff

Next month’s question:

What are your hopes, dreams, and expectations for 2013: the Year of the Snake? Email your answer in (English or 日本語) to haveyoursay@kansaiscene.com along with your full name, age, nationality, job and a clear photo no later than Dec 15th. Responses may be edited for clarity and space.

Have your say

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Made in Kansai

Fretboard wizard With long-forgotten guitar in hand, KS caught up with Josh Parkin at his custom guitar workshop in Nakatsu. Text and images: KS

My guitar is scrutinised for a few moments and then given a cursory strum. “Given it hasn’t been played for 10 years, it’s in pretty good condition,” says Josh, a 30-something Brit with an easygoing demeanour. “What I’d recommend for this is simply a standard clean and set-up. We’d take the strings off to start with, clean and polish the frets to remove oxidization, oil the fingerboard so it’s nice and slick, and then string it back up, taking care to get the exact curve of the neck right. Too straight and you’ll get a lot of buzzing down at the nut. Too curved and you’ll get buzzing up the neck. Then we set up the trem using the springs at the back, adjust the height using the bolts and intonate the saddles. Once that’s all done we adjust the height of all the pick-ups, check your electrics and give them a good clean-up… a little polish and you’re there.” He says he can have all that done in 45 minutes and immediately sets to work. Back in London’s West End, while working in a busy repair shop, it wasn’t uncommon for him to complete 20 such set-ups a day. The experience helped him hone his trade and before long he was ready to go it alone. Rather than attempt to set up shop in the same vicinity as

many of his peers, he decided to take his chances here in Japan. “Japan has the biggest market in the world for expensive, high-end guitars,” he says. “While American and European guitarists tend to go with high quality factory-made stuff around the £1,000 bracket (around ¥150,000), Japanese players want the best stuff available.” It’s with such discerning customers in mind that Josh opened Josh Parkin Guitars in Nakatsu earlier this year. The first floor location is small but perfectly formed. The front houses a counter for walk-ins and work benches covered in guitar parts and specialist tools. At the back is a room for heavy-duty band saws, planes and a spray booth. With prices ranging from ¥300,000 to ¥500,000, one of his original made-to-order guitars is the ultimate self-indulgence for any guitar pro. For those with smaller budgets, Josh also offers semi-custom builds, modifications and set-up and repair work. “Rather than spend ¥200,000 on a high-end, off-the-shelf guitar, a serious player might want to get themselves a decent ¥60,000 instrument and bring it here to be modified for an extra ¥40,000 or so,” he says. “We can replace the pick-

ups with top-end ones and you’ll end up with a guitar that sounds just as good as the top of the range models, yet at nearly half the price. We recommend the super high-quality Bare Knuckle brand pickups from the UK.” Josh is keen to point out he is not interested in making money from imported parts. Instead, he offers them as close to their overseas retail price as possible. He is far more interested in devoting his energies to producing beautiful guitars that are set up to suit the style and technique of their owner. My guitar is handed back to me. It looks as good as the day it was bought. A few minutes of slightly self-conscious strumming later and it’s clear it plays far better than it ever did. If only the same could be said for the player.

Josh Parkin Guitars • Where: Osaka, Toyosaki 3-17-10 • Open: Mon–Sat 10am–6pm • Tel: 06-4256-8079 www.josh-parkin-guitars.com

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Food and drink

A beautifully composed bar Mixing hard liquor and classical music hits the right note. Text: JJ O’Donoghue Images: KS

The first thing you notice about Taka Bar is the sign: “Talk. Whisky. Brahms.” It was the Brahms that brought me inside. Well, that and the whisky. Takaba san, the master of the eponymous bar explained that the Brahms connection is both deliberate and coincidental; he opened the bar nearly 20 years ago on the birthday of the German composer, who also ranks as one of his favorite musicians. Takaba ended up behind the small bar after an even more intriguing coincidence. For years he oversaw banquet preparations and celebrations at the nearby Hilton hotel, which is where he came to the attention of a former president of beverage company Suntory. After a little cajoling, Takaba agreed to leave the Hilton and run this little whiskey gem, formerly called Suntory Old Bar. Despite the name change, the Suntory connection is still strong; Taka Bar has a handful of Yamazaki whiskies bottled exclusively for his bar. The bar is small, like a confessional box except with alcohol, and the lights are kept down. At one end there is a little recess, a hideaway for a couple or for salarymen absconding from work. But the best seats in the house are at the bar because from there you get to view the main attraction: the gallery of whiskies. You can be guided either by your wallet or by Takaba. My companion and I

deferred to his encyclopedic knowledge. As you might expect, some of the vintage single malts are pricey, but don’t be put off: Takaba will lead you through menus, in English or Japanese, to find you great, affordable whiskies. We started with a Glenfiddich and a Yamazaki single malt, a single shot of each over a rock of handcut ice. Takaba is particular about how to serve each whisky, whether straight, on ice or with a splash of water. You can quiz Takaba on whiskies of the world while listening to his collection of classical music. It’s hard to tell which he knows more about, and when he doesn’t have an immediate answer he disappears into his back office and reappears with a printout or a book. For the most part the stock is Scotch and Japanese whisky with a few Americans and Irish making a show, but the Yamazakis are the winners. The whiskies at Taka Bar are much like the master himself: subtle and refined, and the atmosphere is genial and unpretentious. If you’ve reached your whisky limit or run dry of funds there is a beer tap. Suntory, of course. I can’t recall too many occasions where I have spent the evening drinking hard liquor and come away feeling a little more knowledgeable. Well, I think learned something, but that could be the drink talking.

Taka Bar • Where: Sonezakishinchi 1-7-3, Kitaku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6344-1311 • Open: Mon–Sat from 6pm

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Also playing

Dec 14

Skyfall Dec 1 Things get personal for M in the latest Bond installment, which starts out with Bond taking a bullet from a fellow agent. Of course, it’s not long before the mind games, stylish cinematography and spy doublecrossing take over. Director: Sam Mendes Starring: Daniel Craig, Javier Bardem, Naomie Harris

Film previews

Pick

The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey

Dec 14 • Adventure/Fantasy • Director: Peter Jackson • Starring: Martin Freeman, Ian McKellen, Richard Armitage

One director to rule them all: pre-2001, few mainstream movie fans could have told you who Peter Jackson was. The scruffy New Zealander had made a lowbudget funny horror flick and co-penned an Oscar-nominated screenplay, but his defining moment was the day he chose to adapt one of the world’s best-selling books. A box-office phenomenon, The Lord of The Rings is a trilogy of glorious storytelling, superb acting, and loving attention to detail that brought JRR Tolkien’s imagination to life on the big screen. But of course, The Lord of The Rings wasn’t a standalone series. The first book set in Middle Earth was The Hobbit. The hobbit in question, Bilbo Baggins, leaves the comforts of his hometown in search of adventure in the mountains, helped along by a fellow in a tall pointy hat. Personal growth and heroism, plus Tolkien’s own experiences of World War One, shape the story. And through his adventures, Bilbo finds the magic ring

that eventually causes his nephew, Frodo, all that trouble in the next trilogy. Before The Lord of The Rings was even wrapped up, whispers began that Peter Jackson was thinking about adapting The Hobbit. But shooting in Middle Earth is no easy task, as it involves so much work to create a believable fantasy world, so it’s little surprise it has taken so long to complete. And annoyingly, it’s been split into three movies. The second part, The Desolation of Smaug, will be released in December 2013. The amazing Andy Serkis, Ian McKellen, Cate Blanchett and Hugo Weaving reprise their roles from the trilogy, looking like not a day has passed since 2001. Martin Freeman has to fill Ian Holm’s shoes by playing the younger Bilbo, but this facially expressive and down-to-earth actor looks well suited to the role. Will this prequel rule at the box office, the Oscars and over fans’ hearts as much as the trilogy? Only time will tell.

Don’t forget you can find a list of local cinemas online at www.kansaiscene.com/cinemas/

Frankenweenie Dec 15 Sparky the dog isn’t just a faithful friend for life, as owner Victor finds out after the canine zaps him back from the dead. Now Victor has to convince his family and friends the stitched-up monster dog is as lovable as ever. Animation/Comedy Director: Tim Burton Starring: Winona Ryder, Catherine O’Hara, Martin Short

Les Misérables Dec 21 Victor Hugo’s epic novel, already a worldfamous musical, comes to the big screen and whisks us away to the gritty reality of pre-revolutionary France. The main focus is ex-convict Jean Valjean, a man trying to overcome his dark past with good deeds in a thoroughly miserable world. Drama/Musical/Romance Director: Tom Hooper Starring: Hugh Jackman, Russell Crowe, Anne Hathaway

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Books

Zenbu Zen: Finding Food, Culture & Balance in Kyoto

Free Stuff!

na reader can wi One lucky KS cking u Zen as a sto nb Ze of py co as. stuffer for Xm w email your To enter the dra ways@kansaisname to: givea c 17. Mark De cene.com by nbu Zen’. the subject ‘Ze

Photo: Sally Sharpe

Text: Sally McLaren

Burnt out after a stressful life as a book publisher in Australia, Jane Lawson escaped to Kyoto to immerse herself in Japanese culinary culture. A chef-turnedfood writer, photographer and blogger (eatspeakjl.blogspot.com), Lawson had already travelled to Japan more than 20 times since she was a teenager. She’d written two books on Japanese food, but had never lived in Japan for more than a few months at a time. Zenbu Zen (literally, “Everything is Zen”) is Lawson’s story of moving to Kyoto and immersing herself in the ancient capital’s food culture. “Kyoto is a city of hidden life,” she writes in the book. In person, Lawson emphasises it’s also the layers of hidden knowledge in Kyoto that fascinate her. “It’s a privilege to have people open up and share things with you,” she says. Lawson intersperses her journey into Japanese food culture with more than 60 recipes. “There are no teriyaki or sushi recipes here,” Lawson laughs while explaining that her book is intended to educate an international audience on real Japanese food. “It’s amazing how much flavor you can get out of a few key ingredients, and how much food is connected to the rest of Japanese culture,” she says. “I want to share that information.” The books starts with the savoury - a variety of dashi (stock) recipes - that Lawson says is “the most important element required to cook authentic Japanese cuisine” and ends with something simple and sweet - how to make the red beanfilled soft cakes called dorayaki. There are

recipes for home cooking-style dishes, street-food snacks, as well as helpful tips on making tricky items such as nama yuba (soy milk skin) and toshikoshi soba (year-crossing buckwheat noodles). Lawson says her aim is for “more people to eat and experience Japanese food themselves.” As balance is one of the themes of the book, Lawson has also detailed her frustrations and stomach upsets. She has suffered greatly (and more than once) from eating sea slugs and becomes “tired of paying exorbitant prices for average kaiseki.” For foodies intent on having a quintessential Kyoto culinary experience, Lawson recommends you do your research, “if you are not discerning enough…food in Kyoto can become rather repetitive.” The period of Kyoto life that Lawson describes in her book ended one day before March 11, 2011, when she flew back to Australia. Acknowledging the damage to Japanese food culture caused by the natural disaster, she hopes more foreigners will start to embrace Japanese cuisine and cultivate its unique ingredients. Zenbu Zen is a snapshot in time, Lawson says, but she hopes it also inspires people to visit Kyoto. “Even after 27 years spent pacing between my two ‘homes’, I have really only begun to scratch the surface of Japan’s incredible culture,” she says. Author: Jane Lawson • Murdoch Books, 2012 • ISBN: 9781741968415

Jane’s Top 3 Kyoto Food Experiences Takakura (高倉) Tel. 075-231-5633 “An older husband and wife team run this humble izakaya serving technically perfect fare cooked with great care and passion. It always feels like a privilege to eat here, yet the prices are so reasonable. A real local foodie’s joint.”

Soujiki Nakahigashi

(草喰なかひがし) Tel. 075-752-3500 “For beautifully presented, thoughtprovoking kaiseki using locally foraged ingredients. Expect a serious investment of time and money for an experience you won’t forget.”

A Womb Tel. 075-721-1357 “A large, unusually modern Zen space serving elegant but relaxed courses and lunch plates - including clever variations on sushi and tempura utilising Kyoto vegetables. Charming service.”

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Kids & Family

A world away from the city Relaxation is available just a hop, skip and jump away from Osaka’s everyday hustle and bustle at Spa World. Text: Donna Sheffield

Combine Japan’s love of convenience and novelty, throw in some water and out comes Spa World, a giant hot spring theme park slap bang in the heart of Osaka. Okay, so it’s not quite the meditative experience that misty mountain-view hot springs might offer, but it’s a darn sight closer to the shops, schools and the office. And it’s colossal. You don’t come here to quickly dip in and out of some hot water, you come here to relax, and relax seriously. The prices encourage you to play all day – there’s only 300 yen difference between a three-hour ticket and an all-day ticket. Aside from the hot springs, which we’ll come to in a moment, there’s a hair and beauty salon, sports gym, TV lounge, massages and a tanning salon. But it’s the baths that most people rave about. And why they return. The hot springs are divided into two floors, European and Asian. Women use one floor for a month, Men use the other. Then every month, they switch. Enticing you to visit at least twice to get the full experience. Clever. The European Onsen – which was Women-only at the time of our visit, features six different kinds of baths, each inspired by the history and beauty of European cities. Ancient Rome is a brightly-lit tribute to the Trevi fountain, while Greece’s medicinal bath mixes

herbs and mood lighting to unveil your inner god or goddess. Spain is an openair bath with a fantastic waterfall feature, and separate footbath. In Atlantis, you can see fish swimming underneath you, but one of the best parts of this zone has to be Finland, where a wooden sauna house sits invitingly on a lake. The Asian Onsen looks just as luxurious and detailed. Golden architecture from the mosques of Islam and the rich palaces of Persia surround you here. Japan of course dominate this side, with an All-Cypress bath, and two outdoor baths, inspired by mountain and river hot springs. There’s also a vision of baths in the future with Dr. SPA, where oxygen, hydrogen and carbon dioxide zap your body into shape. The top floors of Spa World are a swimsuit-on environment, where families can bathe and play together. The amusingly-named Spapoo has a one hundred meter long waterslide, and a kid’s play area that’s like an aquatic jungle gym. Sneakily, there’s also two paid-for thrill rides: ZokuZoku Bam, a 70-degree reverse drop waterslide and UzuUzu Bam! A wheeling spinning thing that KS wasn’t feeling brave enough to try today. I say sneaky because in Spa World you don’t have to carry your wallet around, as you get a wristband on entry that acts as a virtual wallet. The wristband keeps

tabs of what you buy and you pay the total when you leave. The agony is that between the food zone, some water rides, beauty spa treatments and the wellstocked souvenir shop, you might spend a lot more than you intended. Don’t worry, you can just sleep it off in the hotel. Did I mention the hotel? With this much going on in one building, it’s got to be worth at least one trip. Just try and avoid the weekends, national holidays, and the Obon summer holiday season, as Japanese families flock there. While it’s big, it can still get crowded, and nothing ruins relaxation more than having to share it with a metric ton of people also trying to relax with you. Naked.

Spa World • Where: 3-4-24 Ebisu-higashi Naniwa-ku, Osaka-shi 556-0002 • Tel: 06-6631-0001 • Opening hours: 24 hours • Access: Osaka subway Midosuji line, Doubutsuenmae station exit 5/JR Loop Line, Shinimamiya station east exit/Nankai Dentetsu, Shinimamiya stn, 5mins walk www.spaworld.co.jp/english

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Travel

Canada’s wild west Cougars, wolves and killer waves are just some of the reasons to visit Canada’s surfing capital.

British Columbia

Canada

Tofino

Text & images: Stefania Seccia

It didn’t seem so long ago that I would lie under my aircon, begging for a nanosecond of relief from the suffocating heat. Now in the mornings, I can see breath escaping my body - the last surrender of heat swallowed by freezing air. As winter tightens its grip, I’ll fondly remember my summer in Canada’s surfing capital – Tofino, and its small town neighbour, Ucluelet. There were days I would forget about ice-cold ocean water, as the warm air and gorgeous ancient cedar rainforest engulfed all my senses. The west coast of Vancouver Island, which is a two-hour ferry ride from Vancouver, BC, boasts some of the richest natural parks, bays, beaches and one of the few UNESCO Biosphere Reserves

in the country. The small towns of Tofino and Ucluelet, which together comprise only several thousand citizens scattered over the west coast of Vancouver Island, are in some of the most isolated parts of what I like to call Canada’s wild west. Not only is this region home to wolves, bears, deer and a diverse array of marine life (including orcas and the 20,000 grey whales that migrate through the waters in February), there are also five First Nation indigenous bands under the banner of the Nuu-chah-nulth. Catching the ferry from Vancouver to Vancouver Island lands you in Nanaimo - a port town that connects to an uninspiring highway lined with splotches of suburbs, large shopping malls, car lots

and dead grass. As you stay on the highway, following the plethora of signs guiding you further west, modern civilization becomes increasingly scarce. Roads become thinner, car lots are replaced by some of the oldest and tallest trees in North America, and big box stores change to family-owned shops. There are homemade candy stores, a farmers’ market, locals selling salmon caught from the nearby river, and pit stops bursting with all the locally grown vegetables, fruit, cheese, bread and meat you can fit in your car. After filling up, the final leg of the trip begins. Port Alberni, about an hour and a half drive from Nanaimo, is the last stop in civilization before arriving in the true

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

wild west. After Port Alberni, narrow roads wind around rocky mountains and cliffs that often cut down 30 metres into the beautiful but infamous Kennedy Lake. Campers around those parts know all too well why you shouldn’t leave out unprotected garbage or sleep with both eyes closed. To put it bluntly, there are big bears in them hills. After a two-hour drive from Port Alberni (one hour and 15 minutes, if you’ve lived there long enough), a fork in the road presents itself in what seems like the middle of nowhere. To the right, a 30-minute drive on a winding and weather-beaten road takes you to Tofino and some of the hottest surfing spots in Canada. To the left is another 15-minute drive to the lovely, quaint town of Ucluelet. Although both are tourist spots, they each stand out for different reasons. The road to Tofino boasts luxurious accommodation for those wanting to experience the west coast in style. The Wickaninnish Resort, named after a local chief from the late 1700s (although in First Nations’ culture, it is considered disrespectful to name anything after an important figure), provides direct access to popular Chesterman Beach and each room has a panoramic view of the ocean. More active types may prefer the Clayoquot-Orca Resort Lodge & Wilderness Bird Sanctuary on the doorstep of a protected wetland area, or the walletfriendly Tofino Dolphin Motel only five minutes walk from Chesterman Beach. Tofino has lots to offer those seeking immersion in the outdoors, such as

kayaking among the uninhabited small islands that speckle the water off its coast. In these whale-populated waters, you just might see wolves swimming between islands in search of deer. Wolves aren’t the only ones dining nicely here; you can join locals snacking on steaming hot cinnamon buns straight out of the oven from the Common Loaf Bakery. Tofino is also known for its surfing and it’s a common sight to see wetsuit-clad folks run across the road with surfboard in hand. It has hosted international surf competitions, seen world-renowned Australian Josh Kerr take home the big title at the O’Neill Cold Water Classic Canada, and continues to bring top female surfers from across the globe to its Queen of the Peak competition every year. With swells reaching 4.5 metres in winter, no corals to fear if you take a fall, and a gorgeous view of sun-kissed beaches, there’s no mystery as to why the small town has a big surf passion. While Tofino is defined by its inlets and surfing, Ucluelet is known for its community, fishing and Wild Pacific Trail. The 14-kilometer shoreline walk has stunning views of the waves and forest for which the area is famous. It’s one of the best spots to shelter when the area is hit with rain and gusting winds, which over time have sculpted the trees into unique, sideways-reaching formations. While walking on the mulch trail, remember to keep your eyes peeled for cougars or the nests of eagles perched at the top of the highest trees. And as you look out at waves crashing against rocks

in the ocean, you’ll realize there’s absolutely nothing between you and Japan other than a body of water. If you find yourself in Tofino and Ucluelet in summer, make sure you stop in at one of the many festivals celebrating the wild coast. Tasting salmon prepared by the Yuu-cluth-aht First Nation is also a must, as this melt-in-your-mouth fish will be like no other seafood you’ve had before. Be careful though: locals warn that if you get a taste for either town, your vacation spot may become your home for a lifetime. Now as I lie under my heater wearing all the clothes I own, it helps to think of sunnier times on the west coast of Canada, even with its cougars, wolves and bears.

Ways & Means • Everything you need to know about Tofino, including driving, air travel and where to stay, can be found at: www. tourismtofino.com • Tourism Ucluelet: www.ucluelet.travel • Wild Pacific Trail: pacificrimguide.ca/ ucluelet/wild-pacific-trail • Surf Sister is a well-known surf school catering to both men and women: www.surfsister.com

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

This month in Kansai

ART

EVENT

Wall Painting Project 03 featuring Jeroen Erosie

Kameraoke: 7 Details www.kansaiscene.com

Sennin-Buro Hot Spring, Wakayama Details p.34

Details p.38

CLUB

EVENT

ART

Daichi Dance presents Midnight! @ Grand Cafe, Osaka

The 18th Kobe Luminarie, Hyogo Details p.34

Details p.39

Art Campus 2012: How to Look at Japanese Art! Details p.38

Botan Yasuyoshi: Collection of the thief Details p.38

CLASSICAL

EVENT

FESTIVAL

LIVE MUSIC

Details p.34

Details p.36

LIVE MUSIC

FESTIVAL

ART

Details p.44

Details p.36

Details p.39

St. Petersburg Chamber Ensemble “Ave Maria”

German Christmas Market 2012, Osaka

Onmatsuri Festival, Nara

Sonar Pocket Details p.44

Details p.42

T-Square @ Chicken George, Kobe

Owarai Shinji Ceremony

TOWA TEI: ecollage

Xmas Art Fair x Artcube 6

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

CLASSICAL

ART

EVENT

Sumi Jo (soprano) Latvian National Symphony Orchestra, Tomomi Nishimoto (conductor)

From Court Paintings to the Ecole de Barbizon -Millet, Corot, Courbet-

Domestic and Abroad: What We See Beyond Borders

Lantern Fair, Hyogo Details p.34

Details p.38

Details p.39

Details p.42

ART

CLUB

FILM

EVENT

Veronika Dobers: Beyond the horizon #5

seven feat. Dubfire @ Onzieme, Osaka

The Hobbit Details p.26

Arashiyama Hanatoro 2012, Kyoto

Details p.39

ART

CLUB

EVENT

ART

Hidekazu Tanaka: Sphere of Activity Details p.38

For Relax @ Club Union, Osaka Details p.35

Details p.35

Penguin Parade Details p.35

2012 Itami International Craft Exhibition “shukishuhaidai” Details p.39

LIVE MUSIC

CLUB

LIVE MUSIC

FESTIVAL

An Cafe @ Zepp Namba, Osaka

Okera Mairi, Kyoto

P’ez @ Club Quattro, Osaka Details p.45

Sushi Records presents 2012 Year End Party @ Circus, Osaka Details p.34

Details p.45

Details p.36

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Dec 1–Feb 28

Events

Sennin-Buro Hot Spring Dec 1–Feb 28 FREE Kawayu Onsen, Wakayama

Whether you love hot springs or have never tried them before, here’s a golden opportunity to go to a genuine natural onsen, for free. One of the famous onsen districts in Kansai, Kawayu (see our review p.10), provides a giant open-air public bath for only for three months in winter. Enjoy the large bath (40m x 15m in size) built on the riverbank together with your family and friends – it is a mixed bath. Feel the winds under the sky as you soak in the naturally effervescent water. Time: 6:30am–10pm (times subject to change) • Admission: free • Access: JR Kinokuni line Shingu stn bus to Kawayu Onsen • Tel: 0735-42-0735 • www.hongu.jp/en Photo: 提供和歌山県

Event Listings Osaka Amenity Park Bright Christmas, Osaka Until Dec 25 FREE

Christmas is coming and the festivities are heating up at the O.A.P. Bright Christmas. Amazing entertainments include an impressive Christmas tree, discounts for shopping, an amusement park from December 22 to 24, a street performance on 23 & 24 and more. Time: 11am–10:30pm • Admission: free • Where: Osaka Amenity Park • Access: JR Loop line Sakuranomiya stn, 5min walk •Tel: 06-6881-5115 • http://event. jr-odekake.net/event/123775.html

Santa Claus Diver, Osaka Until Dec 25

Osaka’s aquarium presents a special seasonal event – a Santa Claus diver will appear in its fish tank. Wave your hands to Santa as he swims

alongside manta rays, sharks and other colourful fish!

Time: 9:30am–8pm (7pm last entry) • Admission: ¥2,000 adults, concessions • Where: Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan • Access: Subway Chuo line, Osakako stn • Tel: 06-6576-5501

German Christmas Market 2012, Osaka Until Dec 25 FREE

Raise your Christmas spirits at this annual market bursting with yuletide cheer! Take a ride on the antique merry-go-round, meet Saint Nicholas and listen to carols at weekends. Enjoy a variety of food and drink including mulled wine and sausages in twinkling traditional huttes.

Time: Noon–9pm (Monday to Thursday), Noon–10pm (Friday), 11am–10pm (weekends and public holidays) • Admission: free • Where: Umeda Sky Building • Access: JR Osaka stn/Hankyu Railway/Hanshin Railway/Subway Umeda stn, 10min walk • Tel: 06-6440-3872 • www. skybldg.co.jp/event/xmarkt/2012

Music Box Museum Christmas, Hyogo Until Dec 25

Enjoy a showcase of beautiful yuletide songs played by romantic antique musical boxes. Featuring Hansel & Gretel from the famous opera, this event recreates a German Christmas atmosphere. Time 10am–5pm (closed Thursdays) • Admission: ¥1,000 adults, concessions • Access: Rokko Maya Railway Rokko Cable line Rokkosanjo stn bus to Hall of Halls • Tel: 078-891-1284 • Fax 078-891-0111

Lantern Fair, Hyogo Dec 5–25 FREE

Enjoy an exotic evening out in Chinatown in Kobe. Colourful Chinese lanterns illuminate streets gently yet flamboyantly throughout the town. There will be a dragon dance on the 5th. Time: 4pm–10pm • Admission: free • Where: Nankin-machi • Access: JR Kobe line/Hanshin Railway Motomachi stn, 5min walk

• Tel: 078-332-2896

The 18th Kobe Luminarie, Hyogo Dec 6–17 FREE

Don’t miss this absolutely gorgeous Italian light event, first started to hearten people after the Great Hanshin Earthquake. Walk through the awe-inspiring illumination arches built in Nakamachi-dori Street and Higashi-Yuenchi Park. Time: 6pm–9pm Monday to Thursday, 6pm–10pm on Friday, 5pm–10pm on Saturday, 5pm– 9:30pm on Sunday • Admission: free • Where: The Former Foreign Settlement • Access: JR Kobe line/ Hanshin Railway Motomachi stn, 5min walk • Tel: 078-303-0038 • www.kobe-luminarie.jp

Kaze to Tsuchi no Kogei in Biwako Takashima, Shiga Dec 7–9

Purchase a passport to visit over 40 local craftsmen, designers and

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Dec 22–Jan 14

Dec 7–24

Fuyu Hotaru 2012

Penguin Parade Weekends and Public holidays Dec 22–Jan 14, Every day Dec 22–Jan 6 FREE Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, Osaka

One of largest aquariums in the world, Osaka Kaiyukan holds an annual event called the Penguin Parade. This heart-warming show draws many kids and young couples every year. Three times a day, plump king penguins waddle in a procession in the event square beside the aquarium. There’s a special 80-metre path in place for the penguins to flap and waddle around on, so it’s easy to get a photograph. The square will also be lit up with fantastic illuminations in the evening. Time: 11:30am, 1:45pm and 3:45pm (times are subject to change) • Admission: free • Access: Subway Chuo line Osaka-ko stn; 5min walk • Tel: 06-6576-5501

other creators in their homes and workrooms around Takashima city. Travel around the scenic villages and see these creators in their element!

Time: 10am–5pm • Admission: ¥1,000 adults, concessions • Where: around Takashima city • Access: JR Kosei line Adogawa stn to the centre of Takashima • Tel: 090-5014-1600 • Email: info@musubime.tv • www.kazetotsuchi.musubime.tv

Arashiyama Hanatoro 2012, Kyoto Dec 8–17 FREE

Kyoto hosts an illumination event with a difference. Its classical avenues will be aglow with lanterns and candles during these evenings. Enjoy exploring dimly-lit paths in the neighbourhood of Arashiyama. Time: 5pm–8:30pm • Admission: free • Where: Arashiyama • Access: Hankyu Railway Arashiyama stn/JR Sagano line Saga-Arashiyama stn • Tel: 075-212-8173

Kyo Ryori Tenjitaikai, Kyoto Dec 13 & 14

Be tempted by the sights and smells of beautiful Japanese cuisine. Traditional Kyoto dishes are on display in this exhibition. There will be a cooking workshop, a local produce market and a lot more going on during the event.

Time: 10am–4pm • Admission: ¥800 adults, concessions • Where Miyako Messe • Access: Keihan Railway Sanjo stn bus to Kyotokaikan Bijutsukan-mae/Subway Tozai line Higashiyama stn, 8min walk • Tel: 075-221-5833

Mochitsuki – Making rice cakes, Osaka Dec 16

Experience mochitsuki, making rice cakes, at this museum where a town from the Edo period has been exquisitely reproduced. The first 20 people will be accepted. Time: 1:30pm & 2:30pm • Admission: ¥800 (to enter the museum) adults, concessions

Dec 7–24 Kototaki Koen Park, Kyoto

This large-scale illumination event really takes advantage of its beautiful hillside landscape. White and blue lights are put on trees and bushes along the 200m path leading to Koto Falls. See the 45-metre falls decorated with gentle lights. Enjoy strolling in the woodland, where it seems as if these trees are clad in shining velvet. Live performances of ocarinas and bells will take place on December 19 and 20. If you want a little break from your busy everyday life, Fuyu Hotatu 2012 is the place to visit. Warm refreshments will be on sale during the event. It will be very cold, so wear appropriate clothing and footwear. Time: 5pm–10pm • Admission: ¥500 • Access: JR Sagano line Sonobe stn, bus to Kototaki-michi, 25min walk • Tel: 0771-89-1717

• Where: the Osaka Museum of Housing and Living • Access: Subway Tanimachi/Sakaisuji line Tenjinbashisuji6-chome stn • Tel: 06-6242-1170 • Fax: 06-6354-8601

Hatsu Hinode Mount Kongo, Osaka Jan 1 FREE

Appreciate the first sunrise of the year at the top of Mt. Kongo. Show your ropeway ticket to get warm refreshments at Chihaya-ench Log-house. A fun raffle will be held at 5:30am.

Time: 5am (the ropeway starts) • Admission: free • Where: Mt. Kongo • Access: Kintetsu Railway/ Nankai Railway Kawachinagano stn bus to Kongosan Ropeway-mae, Kongosan stn, 10min walk • Tel: 0721-74-0210

Karuta Japanese Card Game, Kyoto Jan 3 FREE

Witness the Japanese card game, karuta, traditionally held at New

Year. Participants dressed in 12-layered ceremonial kimono, the style of 8th century court ladies, will try to grab cards more quickly than their opponent. Time: 1pm • Admission: free • Where: Yasaka-jinja shrine • Access: Keihan Railway Gion-shijo stn, 5min walk/ JR Kyoto stn bus to Gion • Tel: 075-561-6155

The Night of the Ad Eaters 2013 in Osaka Jan 5

TV ads from around the world invade Osaka for just one night. Around 500 ads from 50 countries will be shown on the big screen non-stop throughout the evening and early morning.

Time: 10:30pm–7:30am • Admission: ¥5,000/¥4,500/¥3,800 • Where: Umeda Arts Theatre • Access: Hankyu Railway Umeda stn, 3min walk/Subway Midosuji line Nakatsu stn exit 4, 4min walk • Tel: 092-843-7370 • www.oeff.jp/ en/program-en/ticket-en

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Festivals Dec 14

Ako-Gishi Sai Festival

Dec 25

Owarai Shinji Ceremony

Dec 14, JR Banshu-Ako stn & Surroundings

FREE

December 14 is the anniversary of 47 samurai heroes who took revenge on the death of their lord in the Edo period. Visit the hometown of these heroes and see the festival paying tribute to the great achievement of the samurai. Witness the grand parade re-enacting combat scenes and thrilling climax. This national legend is still much loved by Japanese people – is on TV, in films and plays even today. A dazzling brass band, bustling market and many other exciting events will also be held in the heart of the city. Time: 10am • Admission: free • Access: JR Ako line Banshu-Ako stn • Tel: 0791-42-2602

Dec 25, Hiraoka-Jinja Shrine, Osaka

FREE

As the saying goes, ‘Fortune smiles on the merry home’. Let’s laugh for a good start to the New Year at Hiraoka-jinja Shrine. Join this “laughing ritual” where priests lead the crowd for 20 minutes of hilarious howling. At the beginning, you pretend to laugh but soon you will be cracking up! The extraordinary ceremony is based on the Japanese mythology that many gods danced and laughed to coax the sun goddess from her cave. On this day, old shimenawa spiritual barriers are replaced with new ones. Following that, visitors and shrine people perform the laughing ritual. There will also be a laughing contest, comedy performances and a lecture on mythology. Time: around 10am (the laughter ritual) • Admission: free • Access: Kintetsu Railway Hiraoka stn; 2 min walk • Tel: 072-981-4177 • www.hiraoka-jinja.org/index.html

Festival Listings Nenneko Matsuri, Wakayama Dec 2 FREE

Appreciate these unique rituals to celebrate the healthy growth of children at Konoha-jinja. See the little girl carrying a rice pot on her head in a procession. Listen to the dialogue between the priest and a child about oranges. Other curious events will take place as well.

Time: 6am–11am • Admission: free • Where: Konoha-jinja Shrine • Access: JR Kinokuni line Ki-Tahara stn • Tel: 0735-74-0470

Ohitaki Sai Matsuri, Shiga Dec 2 FREE

Get excited watching one of the largest bonfire ceremonies in Japan. Mountain priests throw pieces of wood with written prayers on them into the holy flames one after another. See vigorous mountain priests walking across the red embers when the bonfire dies! Time 10am • Admission: free • Where: Tarobogu Aga-jinja Shrine • Access: Omi Railway Tarobogumae stn • Tel: 0748-23-1341

Yassai Hossai, Osaka Dec 14 FREE

Witness this curious but much loved festival by local people. Shouting ‘Yassai Hossai!’, performers walk across red hot cinders. The locals regard the cinders as a good luck charm, and many believe they prevent toothaches.

Time: 8pm–9pm • Admission: free • Where: Iwatsuta-jinja Shrine • Access: Nankai Railway Ishizugawa stn 5 min walk • Tel: 072-241-5640

Onmatsuri Festival, Nara Dec 15–18 FREE

A four day historic pageant at Kasuga-taisha one of the oldest shrines in Japan. On the 17th, classical performing arts are on display one after another until late at night.

Time: at Noon (on the 17th) • Admission: free • Where: Kasugataisya Shrine and surroundings • Access: JR / Kintetsu Railway Nara stn; 15 min walk • Tel: 0742-22-7788 • Fax: 0742-27-2114

Okera Mairi, Kyoto Dec 31 FREE

Make your way to Yasaka-jinja Shrine for this New Year’s Eve tradition. You will see local people spinning a piece of cord that is burning at one end. The shrine provides people with a sacred fire to start cooking for the year.

Time: 7pm• Admission: free • Where: Yasaka-jinja Shrine • Access: Keihan Railway Gion Shijo stn; 5 min walk / Hankyu Railway Kawaramachi stn; 8 min walk • Tel: 075-561-6155

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Club

The Pure-suit of happiness A new look and license has made Pure Osaka even better. Prepare to dance. Text: Carla Avolio Images: Pure Osaka

Put on your dancing shoes. Pure nightclub is back, but not completely as you know it. This much-loved Shinsaibashi nightclub has just undergone a refurbishment that’s made it an even better place for dancing the night away. Since opening seven years ago, Pure has kept its unique place as Osaka’s only all-you-can-drink nightclub. In that time, the club has built a loyal local customer base as well as an international profile, being a frequent stopover for the likes of Oasis, Ne-Yo, Craig David and other visiting foreign artists. “Over the years, lots of people have had great times and made many new friends,” says Pure manager Matt Naiman. “It remains a vibrant part of the Osaka scene.” In recent months as it was being refurbished, Pure ceased operating as a nightclub and switched to a bar-like format offering drinks and DJ music, but no dancing. That all ended on November 2 with the launch of its new-look venue – including renovated dance floor, seating areas and bathrooms – and revamped dancing license, which Matt reckons has made Pure the ultimate dancing destination. “The club now has a more open feel,”

he says. “That, together with our dancers, MCs, and DJs, mean it’s an even better place for music-lovers to really enjoy themselves.” But regulars need not fear. The Pure essentials, says Matt, remain the same: “We’re still the same all-you-can-drink dance club that our customers know and love – just better. Once inside, you can still have your pick of top-shelf spirits and beer without having to worry about money.” As the party season draws closer, Pure is planning to show off the new venue with holiday events, including a New Year’s Countdown Party on December 31. “For those who thought our Halloween party was great, our massive Countdown is going to be even better,” says Matt. As ever, Pure will be all-you-can-drink all night (¥4,500 for men, ¥3,000 for women) featuring hip-hop music spun by Pure DJs and a performance by more than 10 dancers. But that’s not all. Next year will see Pure launching even more new events. “We plan to do lots of things to keep it fresh and exciting, like free Tequila on Monday nights and reggae on Thursdays,”

says Matt. “It’s all about keeping our fantastic customers happy and making sure they have the best possible experience in one of Osaka’s best nightclubs.” We’ll see you there.

Pure Osaka • Where: Diamond Bldg. B1 2-3-12 Shinsaibashi suji, Chuo-ku, Osaka • Access: 3 min. walk from Subway Namba Sta. Go to Soemoncho St. from Ebisubashi-Bridge, and you will see it on the left.

Prices • Friday night: All-U-Can-Drink Men ¥3,500 / Women ¥2,500. Early discount: (9–11pm ¥1000 discount, 11pm–12am ¥500 discount) • Saturday night: All-U-Can-Drink Men ¥4,000 / Women ¥2,500. Early discount: see above. • Weekdays: Men ¥2,000 w/1d Women ¥500 w/1d (before 12am, discounts offered)

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Dec 1

Art

Wall Painting Project 03 featuring Jeroen Erosie Pick

OSAKA Creative Center Osaka

Based in Eindhoven, Netherlands, Jeroen Erosie is a multi-discipline artist, who fuses visual elements and concepts from graffiti, conceptual art, illustration and typography. During his one-month artist residency in southern Osaka, he will paint a wall outside the Creative Center Osaka by collaborating with workshop participants. A rigorous process will see the artist and participants working together to create a painting that layers experiences of each participant. The painting is scheduled to be complete and available for viewing on December 1, accompanied by a live painting battle. The painting itself will also be available for viewing after the reception. For more information on the program, please visit the website. Wall Painting • Reception: Dec 1 5pm–9pm • Admission: Free • Access: Kitakagaya Stn • http://wpp.namura.cc

Art Listings Kyoto Domestic and Abroad: What We See Beyond Borders Gallery Fleur at Kyoto Seika University • Until Dec 8 • Various Media

Open: 10:30am–6:30pm, closed on Sun • Admission: Free• Access: Eizan Kyoto Seikadaimae Stn • www.kyoto-seika.ac.jp/fleur

Misao Watanabe Exhibition Gallery Gallery • Dec 1–15 • Tapestry (Weaving)

Open: 12–7pm, closed on Thu • Admission: Free • Access: Hankyu Kawaramachi Stn • http://web. kyoto-inet.or.jp/people/kictac/ Gallery2

Mitsuo Kim Exhibition Gallery PARC • Dec 14–27 • Mixed Media

Open: 11am–7pm (until 6pm on Dec 27), closed on Mon • Admission: Free • Access: Keihan Sanjo Stn

• www.galleryparc.com

Art Campus 2012: How to Look at Japanese Art! Hosomi Art Museum • Until Dec 24 • Various Media

school students ¥500 • Access: Tozai Line Higashiyama Stn www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/kmma/en/ exhibition

Chiaki Kondo Exhibition Matsuo Megumi + Voice Gallery pfs/w • Dec 1–13 • Paintings

Open: 10am–6pm, closed on Mon • Admission: ¥1,000, ¥600 students • Access: Higashiyama Stn • www.emuseum.or.jp/eng

Open: 12–7pm, closed on Sun and Mon • Reception: Dec 1, 5–7pm • Admission: Free • Access: Kintetsu /JR (Hachijoguchi) Kyoto Stn • www. voicegallery.org

Hidekazu Tanaka: Sphere of Activity

Reika Nakayama: A stellar hill

Kodama Gallery, Kyoto • Dec 1–29 • Paintings

Mori Yu Gallery Kyoto • Dec 1–Feb 2, 2013 • Paintings/Sculpture

Open: 11am–7pm, closed on Sun, Mon, Holidays • Admission: Free • Access: Subway Jujo Stn • www.kodamagallery.com

Suda Kunitaro Exhibition Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art • Dec 1–Feb 3, 2013 • Paintings

Open: 9am–5pm, closed on Mon and Dec 23–Jan 2 • Admission: ¥1,000, university and high school students ¥800, junior high and elementary

Open: 12–7pm, closed on Sun, Mon and Holidays (Dec 28–Jan 7) • Admission: Free• Reception: Dec 1, from 6pm • Access: Keihan Jingumarutamachi Stn • www.moriyu-gallery.com

The World of Chihayafuru "Shigureden," the Hall of Ogura Hyakunin Isshu • Until Dec 24 • Manga

Open: 10am–5pm (until 8:30pm between Dec 8–17), closed on Mon open on Dec 10 & 17 • Admission: ¥500, ¥300 junior high and elementary school students • Access: Randen Arashiyama Stn • www.shigureden.or.jp

Osaka Botan Yasuyoshi: Collection of the thief ARTCOURT Gallery • Dec 1–22 • Paintings/Sculpture

Open: 11am–7pm (until 5pm on Sat), closed on Sun and Mon • Reception on Dec 1, 4–6pm • Access: JR Sakuranomiya Stn • www.artcourtgallery.com

Chisato Yamano: Jungle-Tanpen ARTCOURT Gallery • Dec 1–22 • Ceramics/Drawings

Open: 11am–7pm (until 5pm on Sat), closed on Sun and Mon • Reception on Dec 1 4–6pm • Access: JR Sakuranomiya Stn • www.artcourtgallery.com

39 (L) Nicolas de Largillière "Portrait de Catherine Guimont du Coudray" (R) Constant Troyon "Travailleurs de champ près d'un ruisseau"

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Dec 5–Jan 29

Dec 14–26

TOWA TEI: ecollage KYOTO 3F Project Room

Known worldwide as a DJ and record producer, as well as a former member of the electronic band Deee-Lite, Towa Tei will show his artistic side in this exhibition. This is his first solo exhibition, and will only take place in Tokyo and Kyoto. By cutting and pasting images from vintage magazines, his works seem new yet somewhat familiar. In this exhibition, approximately 20 new works will be on display. During the exhibition period, Towa Tei will hold a collage workshop on Dec 15 (Sat) 3pm–4:30pm with a participation fee of ¥4,000. Please contact the gallery for more details. Collage • Open: 1pm–7:30pm, closed on Wed • Reception: Dec 14 at 5pm, ¥1,500 incl. 2 drinks • Access: Karasuma Oike Stn • www.3-gai.com

Kotaro Maetani: distance Baikado • Until Dec 24 • Video Installation/Photography

Open: 1–7pm, closed on Tue and Wed • Admission: Free • Access: JR/Hanshin Nishikujo Stn • www.baikado.org

Mitamamaha Exhibition Bloom Gallery • Dec 12–23 • Photography

Open: 12–7pm (until 5pm on Dec 23), closed on Mon and Tue • Admission: Free • Access: Hankyu Juso Stn • www.bloomgallery103.com

Hirofumi Nakamae Exhibition CAS • Dec 8–29 • Installation

Open: 2–7pm, closed on Wed and Thu • Admission: Free • Access: Namba Stn • http://cas.or.jp

Nobuyuki Osaki: Reversible Stories Gallery Hosokawa

• Dec 3–22 • Video Installation

Open: 12:30–6:30pm, closed on Sun • Admission: Free • Access: Namba Stn • www.galleryhosokawa.com

Ai Higuchi Exhibition Gallery Kaze • Until Dec 8 • Paintings

Open: 11am–6pm (until 5pm on Sat and Sun) • Admission: Free • Access: Subway/Keihan Kitahama Stn • http://web-gallerykaze.com

Group Exhibition : mukeisa? Art to Wear Gallery Nomart • Dec 22–Jan 26 • Various Media

Open: 1–7pm, closed on Sun and Hol (closed Dec 28-Jan 6) • Reception: Dec 22, from 5pm ¥2,500. RSVP at staff@nomart.co.jp (fashion show and Christmas party) • Live Performance: Jan 26 6–7:30pm ¥1,500, featuring .es / project VO • Admission: Free • Access: Subway Fukaebashi Stn • www.nomart.co.jp

From Court Paintings to the École de Barbizon: Millet, Corot, Courbet MIE Paramita Museum

In Europe, the 18th century to the 19th century was a time when various cultural fields flourished. For example, in music there was Beethoven and Mozart, in literature there was Goethe, and in philosophy there was Kant and Hegel. The world of art was no exception, as paintings shifted their focus from the court to ordinary people, through the French Revolution. Artists from this era such as Millet, Corot and Courbet will be included in an exhibition of 80 works. A beautiful location alone to see, this museum is in Mie, bordered by the Suzuka mountains in the background. Paintings • Open: 9:30am–5:30pm, closed from Dec 28 to Jan 1, 2013 • Admission: ¥1,000, ¥800 university students, ¥500 high school students • Access: Kintetsu Yunoyama Obaneen Stn (transfer from Yokkaichi Stn) • www.paramitamuseum.com

Xmas Art Fair x Artcube 6

• Access: JR/Hanshin Motomachi Stn • www.gyfa.co.jp

SoHo Art Gallery • Dec 18–26 • Various Media

New Phases in Contemporary Painting 2012

Open: 12–7pm (until 5pm on Sun), closed on Mon • Admission: Free • Access: Subway Tanimachi 9-chome Stn• http://soho-artgallery.com/SoHo

2012 Itami International Craft Exhibition "shukishuhaidai" The Museum of Arts & Crafts, Itami • Until Dec 24 • Various Media Open: 10am–6pm, closed on Mon and Dec 24 • Admission: Free • Access: JR Itami Stn • www.mac-itami.com/english

Hyogo Veronika Dobers: Beyond the horizon #5 Gallery Yamaki Fine Art • Until Dec 22 • Drawings

Open: 11am–1pm, 2–7pm, closed on Sun and Mon • Admission: Free

Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art • Until Dec 24 • Various Media

Open: 10am–6pm (until 8pm on Fri and Sat), closed on Mon (open on Dec 24) • Admission: ¥1,200, ¥900 university students, ¥600 high school students, and those aged 65 and over • Access: Hanshin Iwaya Stn, JR Nada Stn • www.artm.pref. hyogo.jp/exhibition/t_1210

Mie Denchu Hirakushi Exhibition Mie Prefectural Art Museum • Until Dec 9 • Sculpture

Open: 9:30am–5pm, closed on Mon • Admission: ¥900, ¥700 university and high school students, ¥400 junior high and elementary school students • Access: JR/Kintetsu Tsu Stn • www.bunka.pref.mie.lg.jp/ art-museum

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Club

Onzieme

Dec 13

seven feat. Dubfire (Techno/House) • DJs: Dubfire, Nao Nomura, Osakaman, senda, Asaura, KojimAn, BanchO • Open: 7pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (WF: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6243-0089 • www.seven-music.net

Ali Shirazinia, aka Dubfire from ex-Deep Dish, will be back at Onzieme to celebrate its six-year anniversary. In 1991, Sharam Tayebi and Dubfire started the house duo and they became one of the most respected DJ acts in the world. After working together for over 15 years, they took a gamble and decided to go solo to explore their own creative vision. In 2007, Ali set up SCI+TEC Digital Audio as an outlet to release his new music, and began working closely with a number of techno icons including Richie Hawtin, Sven Väth, Loco Dice. He even co-produced a track with the biggest British techno act Underworld. Now his SCI+TEC label has also become a home

for many emerging and established talents and is still growing. This is another Thursday night party so so don’t forget to take Friday off.

Club Listings 2 (Sun) Music Boat Fantasy Spaceship Cruising feat. Asy (Drum&Bass/Techno) • Live: Asy • DJs: Aki, Sudo Brothers, Hilock, Tatsuo.Y, Satoshi, Manami • Open: 6–9pm • Admission: Women: ¥4,000, Men: ¥5,000 • Where: Kobe • www.facebook.com/ Sunsetcruising

6 (Thu) Circus Tiga Japan Tour 2012 (Electro/ Techno) • DJs: Tiga, Kihira Naoki, Monashee, Out-of-Box aka 2Ch, Eyez, Shinya Yoshida • Open: 7pm–1am • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

7 (Fri) Grand Cafe Tech Disco Muzik x Euphoria x Grand Cafe Osaka (House/ Techno) • DJs: Yummy, Isakick, Saw aka Soichi Tanaka, Taver, Coco aka Chihiro • Open: 8pm - 1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6213-0031 • www. grandcafeosaka.com

Joule Joris Voorn Japan Tour in Osaka (Techno) • DJs: Joris Voorn, Yashima, Shine, Kunio Torikai,

Fumi, Mitsuyasu, Shin Nishimura + more • Open: 8pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule.jp

Troopcafe Techno zen (Techno) • DJs: Yoshiki, Jimmer, Wataru Takagi, Tuttle • Open: 11:30pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Sannomiya • Tel: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe. tumblr.com

Union Vibes (House) • DJs: Konishi, Hirose, Kitaura, Milk Bro., SilverFox • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥1,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6251-2242 • www.clubunion.jp

8 (Sat) Circus Tightrope Dancing (House) • DJs: Nao Nomura, Ageishi + more • Open: 7pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,000/1D(Before 9pm: ¥1,500/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

Grand Cafe Daichi Dance presents Midnight! (House) • DJ: Daichi Dance • Open: 8pm - 1am • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (WF: ¥2,500/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6213-0031 • www.grandcafeosaka.com

Onzieme Topman Supports DJs (House/ Electro) • DJs: Dexpistols, RS,

Kosuke Adam, Juse, Freakmenu • Open: 8pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6243-0089 • www.onzi-eme. com

Troopcafe Underground Resistance meeting in Kobe (Techno) • Live: Rondenion • DJs: Dex aka Nomadico, Telly, Doiike • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (WF: ¥2,500/1D) • Where: Sannomiya • Tel: 078-3213130 • troopcafe.tumblr.com

Union Elements & Technova (House/ Techno) • DJs: Yashima, Kenji Tazaki, Junichi Kuwata • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6251-2242 • www.club-union.jp

14 (Fri) Circus Agile (Techno) • DJs: Monashee, Ryo Yoshida + Special guest • Open: 7pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D(ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62413822 • circus-osaka.com

Joule Kinda Alright (Progressive House) • DJs: NKitten aka Mikanyan, Shinji, Tiji, Msyk & Bigbaby, unbalance, Tune + more • Open: 8pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule.jp

Onzieme Onzieme 6th Anniversary Snap! (House/Electro) • DJs: Rocketman aka Fukawa Ryo, Quattro Boys, Yukimari + more • Open: 8pm–1am • Admission: Men: ¥2,000/1D, Women: ¥FREE • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62430089 • www.onzi-eme.com

Troopcafe Seditional Jazz (Nu Jazz) • DJs: Jimbo aka Row Deel, Yoshihiro Okino, Kohji Matsuda + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (WF: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Sannomiya • Tel: 078-3213130 • troopcafe.tumblr.com

Union 4Rapture (House) • DJs: Masaaki, Kunio Yasumatsu, Nagisa • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥1,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62512242 • www.club-union.jp

15 (Sat) Metro I Want You x post or dry (Electronica/Techno) • Live: Radiq aka Yoshihiro Hanno, Aoki Takamasa, Eater, iToy aka PsysEx • DJs: kohei, tomoho, tsukasa • Open: 9:30pm • Admission: ¥3,000 (ADV & WF: ¥2,500) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-4765 • www.metro.ne.jp

Onzieme Onzieme 6th Anniversary presents Elektrojunkie (House/Electro) • DJs: Tomoyuki Tanaka, Ko-Matsuhima,

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Taku-Hero, Yps + Shinji, + more • Open: 9pm–1am • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62430089 • www.onzi-eme.com

DJs: Yummy, Kazuhiro Abo, Taver, Sota, k-hiro • Open: 8pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-212-4119 • www. world-kyoto.com

Zods, David TG, D41 ex.energydai, Fullmoon Mondo, Naga, Naguy + more • Open: 7pm • Admission: TBA • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule.jp

Troopcafe

21 (Fri)

Nuit Balanche #7 (Techno) • Live: A. Mochi, JAL • DJs: Kurusu, Rawfila, Pwu, PTBK, Bucco, No-Key, Daisuke + more • Open: 11pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (WF: ¥2,500/1D) • Where: Sannomiya • Tel: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe. tumblr.com

Union Fierce! (House) • DJs: Suguru Sakai, Naoki Takami, Yuzo • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥1,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6251-2242 • www.club-union.jp

Wold Peace Love Motivation x Sprung (Techno/ House) • DJs: Towa Tei, Takkyu Ishino • Open: 8pm–1am • Admission: ¥3,500/1D (ADV: ¥3,000/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-212-4119 • www.world-kyoto. com

16 (Sun) Circus Massive Attack DJ Set Japan Tour (Dance) • DJs: Daddy-G from Massive Attack, Kanayama, Naga • Open: 7pm–1am • Admission: ¥3,500/1D(ADV: ¥3,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62413822 • circus-osaka.com

Owl Osaka The Beats Goes On (House/Techno) • DJs: Towa Tei, Mitsuda Daisuke, Satoshi, Marvy, Y.S.K aka Yoshiki • Open: 7pm–9pm • Admission: Men: ¥2,500/1D, Women: ¥2,000/1D (Before 6pm: ¥1,000/1D) • Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-6362-0822 • owlosaka.net

Wold Peace Love World Sundays Luv Series- Sprung (Techno) • DJs: Takkyu Ishino, Sola • Open: 5pm–12am • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (Before 7pm: ¥1,500/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-212-4119 • www.world-kyoto.com

20 (Thu) Circus Dasha Rush Japan Tour (Techno) • DJs: Dasha Rush + more • Open: 7pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D(ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62413822 • circus-osaka.com

Wold Peace Love Euphoria x Donutz - DJ Yummy Birthday Bash (Techno/House) •

Circus Circus Friday feat. DJ Baku (Electro) • DJs: Baku + more • Open: 7pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D(ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62413822 • circus-osaka.com

Union For Relax (House) • DJs: Moo, Mottsu, Futta-Man, Yusuke Sadaoka • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥1,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6251-2242 • www.clubunion.jp

22 (Sat) Circus

Sugar Recordings - 2nd Anniversary (Progressive House/Techno/ House) • DJs: Koichi Sato, Takekiyo Ishimoto, Yoshiki Yamamoto, Namix • Open: 8pm - 1am • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6244-3177 • g2-osaka.net

28 (Fri) Circus Circus & Posivision presents 2012 Year End Party (Techno) • DJs: Ree.K, yama, Nori, Deco Miwa + more • Open: 7pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D(ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka. com

DJ Nobu x Mike Parker (Techno) • DJs: Nobu, Mike Parker + more • Open: 7pm–1am • Admission: ¥3,000/1D(ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62413822 • circus-osaka.com

Union

29 (Sat)

Vortex (Techno) • DJs: Tasaka, YoC, Shinkawa, Ken-Gee, Master Azia, M.Minami + more • Open: 5pm - 12am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (Before 6pm: ¥1,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6244-3177 • g2-osaka.net

Onzieme

Save To The Rhythm (House) • DJs: Cazuja Fuzimoto, Tejima Ryoji Oi • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066251-2242 • www.club-union.jp

Circus Sushi Records presents 2012 Year End Party (Hard Dance) • DJs: Remo-con, OMKT + more • Open: 7pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62413822 • circus-osaka.com

Torque (Techno) • Live: Alexander Kowalski • DJs: Alan Fitzpatrick, Wendy Bailey, Shine, Hiroki Yamada, Naruset + more • Open: 6pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (Before 9pm: ¥1,500/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6243-0089 • www.onzi-eme.com

Grand Cafe

Union

Onzieme

Fuckage (House) • DJs: Takn Ikeda, Katz, Kenji Shimazaki • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥1,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6251-2242 • www.club-union.jp

Hush! feat. Leon (House) • DJs: Leon, Yashima, Nao Nomura + more • Open: 8pm–1am • Admission: ¥3,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6243-0089 • www.onzi-eme.com

Wold Peace Love D.D.D (House) • DJs: Daishi Dance, Shinji Takega • Open: 8pm–1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-212-4119 • www.world-kyoto. com

The Shelter Japan Tour 2012 (House) • DJs: Timmy Regisford, Keisen • Open: 7pm - 1am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6213-0031 • www.grandcafeosaka.com

Union U Need On (House) • DJs: Ogawa, sends, Chu*, Goldtights • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62512242 • www.club-union.jp

23 (Sun b4 hol)

30 (Sun)

Joule

Circus

Zods Japan Tour 2012 feat. Torture Garden (Trance/Techno) • Acts:

Yasuhisa 20 Hours Open to Last (Techno/House) • DJs: Yasuhisa •

Open: 5am–1am (following day) • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

Lab.Tribe Euphoria (House) • Live: Tomomi Ukumori • DJs: Osakaman aka Yagyu, senda + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-254-1228 • www. labtribe.net

Troopcafe Deep Sessions (Techno) • DJs: Fumiya Tanaka + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (WF: ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Sannomiya • Tel: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe. tumblr.com

Union My Music (House) • DJ: K-Katsu • Open: 9pm • Admission: ¥1,500/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 066251-2242 • www.club-union.jp

Uwaya Gekijo The Star Festival (Techno/House) • Acts: Apparat, Goth-Trad + more • Open: 9pm • Admission: TBA • Where: Sannomiya • www. thestarfestival.com

31 (Mon) Circus Circus New Years Eve (Dance) • DJs: TBA • Open: 8pm • Admission: ¥3,500/1D(ADV: ¥3,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-62413822 • circus-osaka.com

Studio Warehouse Sea of Green Countdown Party (Techno) • DJs: Mirko Loko + more • Open: TBA • Admission: TBA • Where: Kitakagaya • seaofgreen.jp

Union Count Down 2012-2013 (House) • DJs: Ise, Yashima, senda, Osakaman aka DJ Yagyu, Masaaki, Kenji Shimazaki • Open: 8pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6251-2242 • www.club-union.jp

Universe Countdown Party (Techno/Trance) • Acts: Black Asteroid, Terence Fixmer, Ducery Ada Nixino, D41 ex.energydai, Yasuhiro, Fujioka, Takatsgu Wada + more • Open: 3pm - 1am • Admission: TBA • Where: Namba • cavaret-universe.com

List your own club event with Kansai Scene. Contact sales@kansaiscene. com for more details.

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Classical music

Classical Musings

Dec 4

Text: Michael Vezzuto

Okay, let’s start by acknowledging the elephant in the room: the December concert schedule is packed with performances of Beethoven’s 9th Symphony. Known simply as Dai-ku in Japan, the work has become de rigueur holiday programming and is especially treasured for its fourth movement Ode to Joy chorus. If you’re interested in attending the festivities, you can just walk into your local concert hall and there will probably be a 9th programmed at some point during the month. But if I had to choose one, I’d recommend the performance at The Symphony Hall on December 22 for the combination of the 9th “performed by 100 people” (I’m guessing this includes the orchestra members) and classical Christmas(-y) music by the likes of Bach, Telemann, Vivaldi, Mozart…the program looks endless. The performers are the Telemann Chamber Orchestra and the Telemann Chamber Chorus Group and various soloists conducted by Takeharu Nobuhara. If light classical hits get you in the holiday spirit, then you should hear the St. Petersburg Chamber Ensemble at The Symphony Hall on December 16th. Billed as a Christmas concert (but in reality more Christmas-y than Christmas), the program is titled Ave Maria, as are most of the works being performed. Settings of the prayer include those by Caccini, Bach/Gounod, and of course Schubert. Sopranos Victoria Evtodieva and Yana Ivanilova provide the vocals, while the ensemble fills out the program with famous classical hits by Pachelbel (Canon), Elgar (Salut d’Amour), Tchaikovsky (Andante cantabile), Massenet (Meditation from Thaïs),Vivaldi (the winter concerto from The Four Seasons) and others. It’s all of your favorite classical tunes in one place. If you’re looking to avoid holiday programs altogether, your only option is to attend a concert early in the month. I’d recommend attending French cellist Étienne Péclard’s performances of the complete Bach Solo Cello Suites at Osaka’s Phoenix Hall.

Péclard performs the first two suites on December 3rd, filling out the program with two Bach Sonatas for Cello and Piano, where he is partnered by Hiromi Sakaguchi on piano. The remaining Cello Suites 3-6 are performed on December 5. These works communicate such a wide emotional range that no two performances are ever alike. Interpretations are endless, and the intimacy of the solo cello is always enticing. Please attend! Finally, there’s an appearance by soprano superstar Sumi Jo at The Symphony Hall in Osaka on December 4 as the soloist in Johann Strauss II’s waltz for soprano Frühlingsstimmen (Voices of Spring. Rather an odd time to program this work, perhaps?) and Rachmaninov’s lovely Vocalise for Soprano and Orchestra. That is, according to The Symphony Hall’s website. The conductor’s lists a Mozart aria, so listen out for programme changes. Accompanying Jo are the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra conducted by Tomomi Nishimoto. The program ends with Beethoven’s 5th Symphony. You just can’t get away from that guy this month.

Dec 3 & 5

Dec 4

Dec 16

Dec 22

Étienne Péclard performs Bach Solo Cello Suites

Sumi Jo (soprano), Latvian National Symphony Orchestra, Tomomi Nishimoto (conductor)

St. Petersburg Chamber Ensemble “Ave Maria”

Beethoven 9th and Christmas music

The Symphony Hall, Osaka

Time: 2pm • Admission: A=¥4,500, B=¥3,000, C=¥2,000 • Tel: 06-6453-6000 • Access: JR loop line Fukushima Station or Oyodo-minami-1-chome bus stop

Time: 2pm • Admission: A=¥5,000, B=¥4,000, C=¥3,000 • Tel: 06-6453-6000 • Access: JR loop line Fukushima Station or Oyodo-minami-1-chome bus stop

The Phoenix Hall, Osaka

Time: 7pm • Admission: ¥4,500 Tel: 06-6341-0547 • Dec 3: Suites 1&2 / Dec 5: Suites 3–6 • Access: 9mins walk from JR Umeda Station. A map is on their website http://phoenixhall.jp

The Symphony Hall, Osaka

Time: 7pm • Admission: S=¥12,000, A=¥10,000, B=¥8,000, C=¥6,000 • Tel: 0120-499-699 • Access: JR loop line Fukushima Station or Oyodo-minami-1-chome bus stop http://asahi.co.jp

Dec 16

http://asahi.co.jp

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Live Music Dec 28

Dec 16

Dec 16–17

Pe’z

Scoobie Do

Alice Nine

Dubbed ‘The Samurai Jazz Band’ this Japanese instrumental jazz five-piece started out busking the streets of Shibuya 12 years ago, when they pulled in crowds of up to 600 people. Since then, the quintet have played in both the US and Europe to enthusiastic audiences. They released the album Oh! Yeah! Party! in February of this year and this title really sums up what their music is all about. They are also seeing out the year with a new album that is available to download online. Check out the band’s website for full details. From the streets of Tokyo to gold disc awards, it’s been a great ride for the ‘Samurais’ and deservedly so for this ensemble of talented and energetic musicians.

The band that shares their name with an ‘70s cartoon dog came together just over 15 years ago, and in 1999 released their debut single ‘Yuuyake no Melody’ quickly leading to a strong indie following. Signing to a major label three years later propelled the band into the public eye, and they have since released a number of well-received funk-rock-pop albums, namely Traumatic Girl, Miracles, Parasitic Girl, Sparkle and Nando Mo Koi Wo Suru. Their success within mainstream music was also helped by a collaboration single with J-Pop singer Ami Suzuki, and the band’s song ‘Akaneiru ga Moeru Toki’ which featured on the end credits for anime series Gungrave.

Fairly new on the visual kei rock scene, Alice Nine came together in 2004 in Tokyo and quickly became a household name to fans of the genre. Raised from the ashes of the defunct band Givuss by vocalist Shou and guitarist Tora, the group’s breakthrough came with the release of the single ‘Jewels’, which landed the band on the front cover of a popular music magazine. In February of this year, they released the album 9 (including a 3-track DVD and 11-track CD). This album saw the band move to a more heavy/speed metal sound; it will be interesting to see how the band progresses from here.

Jazz Instrumental Brass Five-Piece • Club Quattro, Osaka

Japanese Indie Funk Rockers • Taku Taku, Kyoto

Speed Metal Visual Kei Rockers • Big Cat, Osaka

Live Music Listings Dec 14–17

Dec 16

Dec 18

Dec 20–24

The Stylistics

Scoobie Doo

Miwa

T-Square

Billboard Live Osaka, Osaka

Taku Taku, Kyoto

Zepp Namba, Osaka

Chicken George, Kobe

Dec 16–17

Locofrank

Dec 22

Soul • 6:30pm/9:30pm-14th & 17th, 4:30pm/7:30pm–15th & 16th • ¥8,500/¥10,000 • Tel: 06-6342-7711

Dec 15–16 Mr. Children Kyocera Dome, Osaka

J-rock • 6pm • ¥3,000 • Tel: 075-351-1321

Alice Nine Big Cat, Osaka

Pop-rock • 7pm • ¥4,000/¥4,500 • Tel: 06-7732-8888

Muse, Kyoto

Rock • 7pm • ¥2,500 • Tel: 06-6535-5569

Dec 19

Pop-rock • 6pm-15th/5pm-16th • ¥7,350/¥7,875 • Tel: 06-7732-8888

Visual kei rock • 5:30pm16th/6:30pm-17th • ¥4,725 • Tel: 06-7732-8888

Dec 15

Dec 17–18

Hey Smith

Lewis Nash

Pop-rock • 7pm • ¥4,500 • Tel: 06-6341-3525

Namba Hatch, Osaka

Mister Kelly’s, Osaka

Sadie

Brass-rock • 1pm • ¥3,980 • Tel: 06-6535-5569

Jazz drums • 7:30pm/9:30pm • ¥4,000/¥6,000 • Tel: 06-6342-5821

Sonar Pocket Zepp Namba, Osaka

Namba Hatch, Osaka

Visual kei rock • 7pm • ¥4,500/¥5,000 • Tel: 06-6341-4506

Fusion • 7pm • ¥5,500/¥6,00 • Tel: 078-332-0146

Shonen Knife Fandango, Osaka

Punk • 6pm • ¥3,000 • Tel: 06-6535-5569

Dec 23 Luna Sea Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka

Visual kei rock • 5pm • ¥9,000 • Tel: 06-7732-8888

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Dec 17–18

Lewis Nash Grammy award-winning US jazz drummer Lewis Nash has, in a career spanning more than four decades, played on over four hundred recordings. Though he’s jazz at heart, Nash is known for his ability to venture into any genre and style and has performed with artists such as George Michael, Diana Krall, Tommy Flannagan and Melissa Manchester. Though playing regularly in his native Phoenix from a young age, it wasn’t until 1980 that Nash got his break and joined the backing band of jazz vocalist Betty Carter in New York. On this musician’s musician, fellow artist Clark Terry says: “He’s a tasteful, beautiful drummer with impeccable time.” On himself, Nash states: “It’s in the spirit you bring, it’s in the touch, it’s in the approach, it’s in the intention.” Acclaimed US Jazz Drummer • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka

Pick

Dec 28

Dec 29

Jan 5

The Alfee

Gargoyle

Big Cat, Osaka

Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka

Chicken George, Kobe

Metal • 6:30pm • ¥4,000/¥4,500 Tel: 078-332-0146

Jan 14

Pe’z

Dec 30

Jan 11–12

Sekai No Owari

An Café

Dreams Come True

Zepp Namba, Osaka

Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka

Pop-rock • 6:30pm-11th/5pm-12th • ¥6,800/¥7,800 • Tel: 06-6341-3525

Jan 15

Jan 4–6

Jan 13

The Ventures

Hekiru Shiina

The Vaccines & A Flood of Circle

Billboard Live Osaka, Osaka

Zepp Namba, Osaka

Rock • 5pm • ¥5,000 Tel: 06-6341-3525

Club Quattro, Osaka

Instrumental brass rock • 8pm • ¥4,500 • Tel: 06-6882-1224

Dec 29–30 Chabo – Up & Down Taku Taku, Kyoto

Rock • 6:30pm-29th/5:30pm-30th • ¥6,500 • Tel: 075-351-1321

Pop-rock • 6pm • ¥7,350 • Tel: 06-6341-3525

Visual kei rock • 5:30pm • ¥5,000 • Tel: 06-6341-3525

Supergroup • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥7,400/¥8,900 • Tel: 06-6342-7711

Female vocal • 4pm • ¥5,500 • Tel: 06-7732-8888

The Cherry Cokes Club Quattro, Osaka

Celtic punk • 6pm • ¥3,000/¥3,500 • Tel: 06-6357-4400

Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka

Pop-rock • 5pm • ¥6,300 • Tel: 06-6882-12241

Club Quattro, Osaka

Indie rock • 7pm • ¥5,800 • Tel: 06-6311-8111

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Kansai Business Finder Wining & Dining Absinthe Mediterranean Restaurant Cafe/Bar

Nishi-ku, Kita-horie 1-2-27 South Yotsubashi Bldg. 1F Osaka Tel: 06-6534-6635 Url: www.absinthe-jp.com

Asbinthe Solaar Roof Top Restaurant Cafe Bar & Beer Garden

Chuo-ku, Namba 5-1-18 Namba Dining Maison 8F Osaka Tel: 06-6633-1445 Url: www.absinthe-jp.com/absinthesolaar

Himalaya Indian Restaurant

Kita-ku, Umeda 1-2, Osaka Ekimae, Dai-2 Bldg. B1 Osaka Tel: 06-6545-6116 Url: www.meera.jp/en/himalaya

Meera Indian Restaurant

Osaka YWCA

Chinese Cuisine

Global Network of Women

Chuo-ku, Soemon-cho 7-2 Luz Shinsaibashi 5F Osaka Tel: 06-6125-5338 Url: www.chinesecafe8.com

Kita-ku, Kamiyama-cho 11-12 Osaka Tel: 06-6361-0838 Url: www.osaka.ywca.or.jp

Dublin Bay

Arthur Murray Dance School

Irish Pub

Chuo-ku, Dotonbori 2-1-5-B1 Osaka Tel: 06-6213-1122 Url: www.irishpub-dublinbay.com

Zerro The Place to be...

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2, Queen’s Court Bldg 1F Osaka Tel: 06-6211-0439

The Blarney Stone Shinsaibashi The Irish Pub in the Heart of Osaka

Chuo-ku, Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-527 Kohda Bldg B1F Osaka Tel: 06-6484-2220 Url: www.the-blarney-stone.com

The Blarney Stone Umeda

Outback Steakhouse

Kita-ku, Sonezaki 2-10-15 Sonezaki Center Bldg. 6F Osaka Tel: 06-6364-2001 Url: www.the-blarney-stone.com

Kita-ku, Umeda 2-1-24 Shinsakurabashi Bldg. 1F Osaka Tel: 06-6457-7121 Url: www.outbacksteakhouse.co.jp

Murphy’s Irish Pub First Irish Pub in Japan

Chuo-ku, Higashi-shinsaibashi 1-631 Lead plaza 6F Osaka Tel: 06-6282-0677 Url: www.murphysosaka.com

Fubar Restaurant and Bar

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 1-5-22F Osaka Tel: 06-6245-3757 Url: www.fubarosaka.com

Captain Kangaroo Food, Sports & Rock ‘n’ Roll

Kita-ku, Sonezaki-shinchi 1-5-20 Okawa Bldg. 1F Osaka Tel: 06-6346-0367 Url: www.roo-bar.jp

Chedi Luang Horie Traditional Thai food

Nishi-ku, Kita-horie 1-7-11 Osaka Tel: 06-6535-1515 Url: www.chedi.jp

> for maps see kansaiscene.com/business-finder

Chinese Cafe Eight

Kita-ku, Umeda 1-3-1, Osaka Ekimae, Dai-1 Bldg. B2 Osaka Tel: 06-6348-0134 Url: www.meera.jp/en/

Australian Themed Steakhouse

List your business in the Kansai Business Finder, and appear both in print and online. Contact sales@kansaiscene.com for more details.

The Irish Pub in the Heart of Osaka

Coolabah Sports Cafe

Chuo-ku, Nishi-shinsaibashi 2-1613, Housen Bldg. 1F Osaka Tel: 06-6213-5153 Url: www.coolabah.jp

Ali’s Kitchen Pakistani & Arabic Cuisine

Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 1-10-12B1 Osaka Tel: 06-6553-2292 Url: www.aliskitchen.jp

Trois Dix Macrobiotic & slow food restaurant

Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-22-4 Osaka Tel: 06-6648-8336 Url: http://locoplace.jp/t000094365/

Education Kobe YWCA Global Network of Women

Chuo-ku, Ninomiya-cho 1-12-10 Kobe Tel: 078-231-6201 Url: www.kobe.ywca.or.jp

Dance Studio

Chuo-ku, Minami-senba 3-5-28 Osaka Tel: 06-6245-1731 Url: www.arthurmurray.co.jp

Marga Language Service

Amagasaki-shi Tsukaguchi-cho 6-8-6-203 Hyogo Tel: 06-6421-3318 Url: http://yoshimotokaikei.tkcnf. com

Yuko Tamaki Accounting Office Accounting & Tax Services

Chuo-ku, Tanimachi 1-7-3-8F, Osaka Tel: 06-6809-1955 Url: www12.plala.or.jp/ytaccounting/ indexeng.html

International Solution Group

Japanese Language School

Investments, Real Estate, Taxes US and Japanese

Chuo-ku, Onoe-dori 5-1-27-8F Kobe Tel: 078-271-6446 Url: www.marga.jp

Chuo-ku, Tanimachi 1-3-17 suite 1001 Osaka Tel: 06-6949-0144 Email: kansai@isgjapan.com

Online Japanese Lessons

Sweatshop Union

Study Japanese from Home

Suita, Toyotsu 40-6, EBIC Suita 3F Osaka Tel: 06-6484-6021 Url: www.nihongo-lesson.jp

Doshisha Business School Discover the Doshisha Global MBA

Doshisha University Karasuma-Imadegawa, Kamigyoku, Kyoto, 602-8580 Tel: 075-251-4600 Url: gmba.doshisha.ac.jp

Shops & Services Mojoprint Full Color Printing

Nishi-ku, Shinmachi 3-5-7, Eiko Bldg. 2F, Osaka Tel: 06-6539-1717 Url: www.mojoprint.jp

Brastel Remit Send money overseas

Sumida-ku, Yokoami 2-6-2 Tokyo Tel: 0120-983-891 / 03-6869-4851 Url: www.brastelremit.jp

TNT-PC English PC Support

Nishinomiya-shi, Maruhashi-cho 6-8-1F Nishinomiya Tel: 0798-65-7555 Url: www.tnt-pc.com

Yoshimoto Tax Services Tax Services for English speakers

T-Shirt Print Shop

Naniwa-ku, Sakuragawa 4-5-19 Osaka Tel: 06-4394-8850 Url: www.sweatshop.jp/eng

Creamy Kids International Modeling Agency

Kita-ku, Umeda 1-2-2 Osaka Ekimae, Dai-2 Bldg. 2F Osaka Tel: 06-6347-7705 Url: www.pre21.com/creamy

Pakmail Amagasaki We Ship Anything, Anywhere!

Tsugiya 2-2-28 Amagasaki Tel: 06-6492-8950 Url: www.pakmail-ama.com

Pakmail Esaka We Ship Anything, Anywhere!

Suita, Esaka-cho 1-23-17 Osaka Tel: 06-6330-8988 Url: www.pakmail-osaka.com

Shinmei Law Office Business Lawyer

Kita-ku, Nishi-tenma 4-11-22, Hanshin-shinmei Bldg. 501 Osaka Tel: 06-6362-8013 Url: www.shinmei-law.com/e

Meister Edi Orthopedic & Custom Shoes

Nada-ku, Kishichi-dori 5-3-9-1F Kobe Tel: 078-802-8043 Url: www.osmherbst.com

Exeo International International Dating Parties

Kita-ku, Umeda 1-1-3-3F Sky Lounge Mariage, Osaka

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Tel: 050-5810-3977 Url: www.exeo-international.com

ACCJ Kansai

Chuo-ku, Sennichimae 2-11-17 Osaka Tel: 06-6644-1810 Url: www.basepoint-osaka.com

American Chamber of Commerce in Japan

Mayflower House

Kita-ku, Dojima-hama 1-1-8, Dojima Park Bldg. 5F, Osaka Tel: 06-6345-9880 Url: www.accj.or.jp

Guesthouse

Real Estate & Accommodation

Chuo-ku, Izumi-machi 2-1-15 Osaka Tel: 0120-881-456 Url: www.osaka-mayflowerguesthouse.com/en/

Oriental Process Apartments for Rent

Takani Co. Ltd. Total Solution for House-hunting

Yodogawa-ku, Nishimiyahara 2-335 Osaka Tel: 06-6396-6770

Avior Manor Clean and Spacious Apartments for Rent

Higashi-Osaka, Morikawachi-nishi 1-1-12 Osaka Tel: 06-6942-5766 Url: www.aviormanor.com

Hostel Base Point Osaka Hostel

Ikuno-ku, Tsuruhashi 1-1-36 Osaka Tel: 080-1422-4679 Url: www.orientalprocess.com

Entrance Japan Shared houses across Osaka

Kita-ku, Shibata 1-14-8-9F Osaka Tel: 06-6136-3330 Url: www.entrance-japan.com

Procyon Apartment Executive apartments for rent

Chuo-ku, Uchiawajimachi 1-1-6 Osaka Tel: 06-6942-5766 Url: www.palforest.com/residence

Travel

Hair Art & Make up BOY Hair and Make Up

World Express Kobe’s Popular Travel Agency

Chuo-ku, Kotonoo-cho 5-3-5, Green Chapeau Bldg. 104 Kobe Tel: 078-222-5050 Url: www.wexp.co.jp

GS Travel Best Fares in Osaka

Chuo-ku, Higashi-Shinsaibashi 1-13-21, Wadayoshi Bldg 302 Osaka Tel: 06-6281-1230 Url: www.gs-travel.com/en

Chuo-ku, Higashi-Shinsaibashi 1-223-5F Osaka Tel: 06-6252-7630 Url: www6.ocn.ne.jp/~boy/i/index. html

Oriental Dental Clinic English Speaking Dentist

Chuo-ku, Nakayamate-dori 3-4-7, Oriental Medical Dental Bldg. 4F Osaka Tel: 078-321-2717 Url: www.oriental-shika.com

Across • No.1 Travel

K Studio New York

We go the extra mile for you

English Speaking Beauty Salon

Kita-ku, Umeda 3-4-5, MainichiIntecio 15F, Osaka Tel: 06-6133-0273 Url: www.no1.his-west.jp

Kita-ku, Toyosaki 5-2-22-2F Osaka Tel: 06-6371-9033 Url: www.ksny.jp

Health & Beauty Ishida Women’s Clinic Women’s Health Care in Osaka

Asashi-ku, Shinmori 2-1-26 Osaka Tel: 06-6951-9701 Url: www.ishida-clinic.jp/en/

List your business in the Kansai Business Finder, and appear both in print and online. Visit www. kansaiscene.com/businessfinder for more details.

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Kansai Scene Classifieds Place your own ad online at kansaiscene.com/classifieds Please note: Kansai Scene is not responsible for the content of communications made through either printed or online classified ads.

Employment > Education English Teacher – Osaka

(Immediate Start) English conversation school in Osaka seeks 2 English teachers for immediate start. Teaching experience preferred, not essential. Training provided. Send short personal introduction, closest station and available times. e-mail: indigo3210@yahoo.com P/T English teacher with

immediate start TKC provides after school care for elementary school kids. We need native English speakers who love kids and can give kids fun English time at Ibaraki-shi in Osaka. Mon to Fri,14:00-19:00,180,000yen/month. Experience with kids and Japanese skills preferred. A proper visa required. ibaraki@t-kidsclub.com TEACHERS WANTED School in Ashiya/Okamoto is looking

for FT/PT English and French teachers ASAP. University diploma is preferable. Must be native speaker with valid visa. Payment: 2700-3000yen per hour and transportation. Contact us by email. ashiyaplus@hotmail.co.jp

FRENCH Part Time teacher

School in Umeda is looking for part time teacher of French from Jan 2013. Mon, Thu and Fri evenings and Sat morning. Must be native speaker, univ. degree and with proper visa. See our home page www.euro-lingual.com and send resume to abc@saboji.com , with photo and visa status specifications. NATIVE ENGLISH TEACHER FOR IMMERSION PROGRAM

Teacher for full-day Saturday program needed. Experience teaching language basics/other subjects to large groups. Computer skills, ability to teach other subjects in English required. Uji city, Kyoto. 20,000 yen/day. Dec. 2012-March 2013. Contract extension possible, trans/bonus. Start: Dec. 2012. Email: applicant@ritskids.org http:// ritskids.ujc.ritsumei.ac.jp/contents/ English Teacher/ Evaluator Wanted Global

manufacturer in Mie seeks an English-speaking individual to

develop an English as a Second Language (ESL) program for management-level personnel. Excellent verbal and written communication skills are required. Some support to an Englishspeaking senior Executive also required. Contact Manager: saiyou@ moriseiki.co.jp P/T NATIVE TEACHERS NEEDED

at an English conversation school in Umeda with immediate start. Oneyear teaching experience and proper working visa required. 3,000yen/hr. If interested, please send us a short introduction and available times to: osaka@peters.jp or visit http:// peters.jp/index.html for more info. Saturday Elementary Teacher- SEED Program

> General Wanted: Female Rest/Bar Staff! Looking for 6 ladies to join

our lively staff. P/T at least twice a week, 4 hrs/day. 19:00-24:00: ¥1300/ hr & 24:00-LO: ¥1500/hr. Trnsp, meals & uniform incl. Closed: Sunday. Near Kita-Shinchi. Basic Japanese comprehension a must. Foreigner Females only! Ages:18-29. For more info call: 06-6347-0566 Seeking Female Bar Staff

Conveniently located near Shinchi Station in Umeda. Hours 8~11 p.m. up to 6 days a week if wanted. International staff and very relaxed atmosphere. Please inform if available for an interview. Nana: chosheenmama@yahoo.co.jp

(Kyoto) SEED is looking for an experienced, Native English Teacher to teach on Saturdays in Kyoto. Saturday Immersion for Elementary Students. The salary is 20,000 per Saturday. Please e-mail resume, cover-letter and photo to Englishinosaka@hotmail.com An excellent opportunity for a great teacher.

CAREGIVER JOB AVAILABLE Kobe and Osaka nursing homes

Teacher needed ASAP between Kyoto and Osaka

Part-Time: International Cafeスタッフ募集 Females wanted

Seeking a competent teacher on Mon & Thurs from 430 for three 50min lessons. ¥2300/lesson + ¥1000 transport each day. Training provided for inexperienced teachers. Offered teacher work at our main school near ShinOsaka JR. If you're interested call or email Steve: info@ osakala.com or 0803790236 PT NATIVE ENGLISH TEACHER

Int'l Friendship organization seeks professional English teacher for adults and kids in Minami-senri (Suita, Osaka) from April. Req: a valid working visa, Bachelor’s degree, teaching exp. in Japan. Pay: from ¥3000/hr + trans (max ¥1000/ day). Pls send resume w/picture to: sifa@mail.infomart.or.jp PT Corporate Training Instructor- Evenings in Osaka

3 years teaching experience needed, including some business English teaching. (For this assignment, Female teacher preferred) Send CV & evening availability to employment[at]coaching-english.jp (Please change [at] to @...)(Classes start in January.) English Conversation School Teachers Needed

English teachers needed in the cities of Amagasaki and Kawanishi in Hyogo Prefecture. Applicants must be native speakers of English and already possess a visa that allows them to work in Japan. Please email your resume, available times to work and nearest train station name to: ma1_11@hotmail.com

are seeking women who love to care elders. AXCY provide basic training for inexperience person, and also support to start caregiver job. Applicants must be able to speak Japanese and must have proper visa. More details contact 078-843-0273 www.axcy.jp axcyyamada@aol.com

for cafe staff to work in a new cafe opening in Myrica Hills (opens 2013 @Suita, Osaka). Looking for English speakers with proper working Visa. Basic Japanese ability a must. ¥2,000/hr + transportation expenses. Please call 06-6535-1817

PT Flyer Distributor— Umeda in Osaka Our school in

Umeda in Osaka seeks PT flyer distributor. Wearing business clothing is necessary for this job. Please send CV and availability to employment[at]coaching-english.jp (Please change the [at] to @...)

For Rent PRIVATE APT-SHIN OSAKA Lovely IDK 3rd fl apt. Fully

furnished, Central location. Close to shops, trains, gyms, restaurants etc... Just 7 minutes from Umeda in Shin Osaka. All new inside, sep bathroom. Suitable for single/ couple. No Guarantor/Agent fees. Y68, 000/m. Dep required. Min 1 yr contract ph Trish 090-1599-9767 trisha-d@gol.com 2DK Osakako 75000yen/ month Fully Furnished 2DK

35 square meters, 1minute walk to Osakako subway station. Fully furnished with all needed for a comfortable stay. 2nd floor corner apartment. 1month refundable deposit, No Key money, No Guarantors, 3month minimum stay required, No agency fees. Supermarket, parks, convenience stores close by. Email: alex@ abhousingosaka.com http://www. abhousingosaka.com

Bentencho/Osakako apartments available Bentencho: Bentencho:

1DK for 50000 unfurnish**1DK for 60000 semi furnish**1DK for 65000 semi**2LDK 85000 unfurnish. OSAKAKO: 1R 55000 semi furnish**2DK 65000 semi furnish**2DK 85000 fully furnish. No key money/No Agency fees/No Guarantors needed. 3month min. stay, 1month refundable deposit. Alex 09037030314

BEAUTIFUL Apartments for rent in Nishitanabe! Convenient,

1 min walk to Nishitanabe stn. Elevator, hard wood floors, lots of storage space. Quiet, friendly location, near parks, shopping, etc. Multiple units available. 65,000/ month Kate: USFKate@yahoo.com

For Sale For Sale Canon 5D Mark

2 camera body + many extras 126,000. Canon 24-70mm f 2.8L USM autofocus lens 104,000. Canon 70-200mm f2.8L USM IS Telephoto zoom lens 126,000. Canon 100mm f2.8 USM Macro lens 32,000. Wacom Intuos 4 Digital tablet 45,000 Lowepro Field and Street photo gear carrying system 12,000. fcarter@gol.com 075-212-1575

High spec desktop for

performance-minded 1.5 yr old custom desktop (monitor not incl) for 40000 (60000 w 22" LCD monitor), non-negot. Windows 7 Ult (64 Bit ); Intel Core2 Quad CPU Q6600@2.40 GHz; HDD's: 4 Internal Hard Disks- 2, 2 TB, 1, 1 TB, & 1, 500GB = 5.5 TB; Optical Disks= 2: 1 DVD, 1 BluRay. GeForce GTS 250 Video Card. Fast system. Matt: mattkaste@yahoo.com

Business Opportunity ALKALINE Leveluk Water INCOME Opportunity ALKALINE

Leveluk Water is Pure, Healthy, Rich in Minerals. Used by an U.S. Olympic Team. Uniquely Endorsed by The Largest Medical Org. in JPN. NO-interest Installment Plans available. The INCOME Opportunity comes FREE with your purchase. Orders & Inquiries: TEL/ FAX 073-462-7843. http://www. Leveluk-Kangen-Water.com

Events BILINGUAL IMPROV COMEDY SHOW feat. IMPROV BOSTON

Osaka's Pirates of the Dotombori & Improv Boston WHEN: WEDNESDAY, November 28, 2012. 7PM - 9PM (doors open: 6:45). COST: 1500 yen (includes 1 drink & snacks) PLACE: Namba Municipal

Kansai Scene magazine December 2012 kansaiscene.com

Learning Center Theater (4F above JR Namba Station in the OCAT building) VENUE WEBSITE: www.osakademanabu.com / Bill: bill@japancomedy.com

Language Exchange Shinsaibashi English/ Japanese Language Exchange! Make new friends

and practice your Japanese and English! Beginner or native, no problem! 1st and 3rd Tuesday of the month at 6:00 pm at Chuo-kaikan, near Nagahoribashi station. It's FREE! Mayo: mayo.kishimoto@ gmail.com

Spanish/Japanese iam interested in Japanese culture

and communciation please teach i will teach you Spanish we can meet up after work Osaka namba hasta pronto! necnec61@yahoo.com

Seeking Japanese teacher for private lesson in Kobe

Mainingly involves tutoring for reading Japanese books in certain professional areas. Japanese major preferred. Fees negotiable. About once a week. Schedule flexible. jiveonlive@gmail.com Looking for a foreign

lady Looking for a foreign lady. Teach me English once in a while. I’m a bodywork therapist, run several clinics in Osaka, hobby and pastime golf, trip. English not fluent, but understand and speak. koji3912302000@yahoo.co.jp Spanish! I'm a spanish native

speaker, I offer help to improve your spanish skills by teaching pronunciation, vocabulary, etc! Let's also share Kyoto arts and culture Kyoto too. contact me for details. haeru.16.55@i.softbank.jp

Sounds familliar If not

now, then when? If not me, then who? Are you having useful time? I’ll be able to improve your vocabulary of Japanese if you

made up your mind to have the time. Let's get cracking in Umeda aiming2004jp@yahoo.co.jp Korean Teacher 韓国語先生

French living in Osaka is looking for a Korean Teacher, who could teach korean 2 times a week . 週二回に、

韓国語を教えられる韓国人を募集しています。Tommy: thomasjo59138@

gmail.com

英会話勉強会のお知らせ英会話勉強会始めました。アラフォー仲間で仲良く英会話楽しんでます!!英語で話したい人や英語好きな人ドンドン参加して仲間になって下さい。karintoprince@

yahoo.com

Looking for native English

speakers 30's J/F live in Osaka. My English is intermidiate but my vocabularies are limited.I would like to practice regularly.Please let me know when and where do you available.I am serious.Thank you. tofu1@yahoo.co.jp Play pool together Japanese female in Osaka is

looking for someone play pool with. I am not good at it so maybe could you teach me? I'm free evenings during weekdays. Namba, Shinsaibashi or Umeda preferd. roseandiris@hotmail.com

Announcements AMNESTY INTERNATIONAL KANSAI-DEC 9TH-HUMAN

RIGHTS DAY "WRITE-FORRIGHTS" Dec 9, Sun, 3~5:30 pm A.I. event-join millions globally "writing out" re human rights abuses. PLACE: Blarney Stone Irish Pub-UMEDA // Writing materials supplied // Info: amnesty.grp95@ gmail.com Louise Pender 072-2583560 Internal arts/qigong, tenaga dalam club in Nagoya

Looking for interested individuals to form a study group in Nagoya for more info please check out my add and blog. http://nagoya-info. com/classifieds/i...igong-lessons/ eldridge.harry@gmail.com

WOW - Women on Wednesdays - Fun & Friendship for Women WOMEN on WEDNESDAYS, every Wed. 9.30am at Kobe Union (International) Church. Coffee, friendship, childcare, English conversation, parenting class. Check website www. kobeunionchurch.com for info.

Friendship and more Hi I'm

Christmas Party!!! Christmas Party and Church

Hi. Im 29yo female working as a professional in Osaka. I like various activities and learn new things. Drop me a line if you wish for a new and nice friend, and get to know about each other. labailarina_de_ salsa@yahoo.co.jp

Service! December 23rd at 11:00. Near Utsubo Park (Honmachi and Awaza Subway Stations). See website for more details. Everyone is welcome! http://www. mustardseedosaka.com

Other Band seeking coheadliners Indie rock/dance

band seeking another band to split a set with. You would play 40 mins and we would play 40 mins, meaning both get decent time in a popular bar instead of a secluded live house onetoanother97@yahoo.co.uk

NATIONAL THEATER SEEKS UNDERSTUDY ACTORS Seeking

2 adult male/female actors for Ensemble and to understudy Mr. Bumble and Mrs. Corney. Must have previous singing experience. Please contact hello@nationaltheater.jp to schedule an audition.

Friendship New friends wanted. Hi, I'm

32 year old single Japanese male and am very new to Osaka. I'm just looking for new friends to hang out with and go for dining, drinks, coffee, sightseeing, karaoke.... gisbornjp@gmail.com new friends to enjoy

anything with Hi! I'm a Japanese male living in Nara. Since I got marrid, I have fewer friends. I'm so interested in sports and music. I often go to concerts. I'm looking for friends, females or males. Yasu: gnr020333@yahoo.co.jp

Japanese female, mid 30s hoping to meet someone genuine for friendship or more. Im outgoing and fun. If you think you are the one for me please contact me: cheers. Ukfan: No1uk_beach@ yahoo.co.jp

looking for new friends

Band looking for female

musicians Looking for female musicians to join punk/rock band in Kyoto/Osaka area. Paul: paul@qgames.com fun in kyoto?? Late 20's JF looking for new friends to hang out with in kyoto. Friendship & fun are just where I am at right now. Are you the one? Hit me back with a foto. dupont77@hotmail.co.jp Looking for friends Hi, I am

27 Living and working in Kyoto as business development executive for Europe. I am of indian origin and have lived and traveled in several countries.Looking for friends or more. cheers metallica.kyoto@ gmail.com

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Umeda

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