KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE
Café-bar
Illustration by Liisa Kruusmägi
2018 06
MeÄ?ys Brazaitis (1903–1952) was a Captain of Lithuanian Air Force and one of the pioneers of colour photography in Lithuania. This particular still-life was shot on 35mm Agfacolor film that was first made in 1936. Maybe someone knows where the table once stood? Photo from the archive of Open society studies association
At the end of spring, we decided to dedicate this issue to the joys of gastronomy and set out to visit the only Peruvian restaurant in Lithuania called Peru kampelis (Peruvian Corner). Pleased with the hospitality of the hostess, we wanted to interview her and her Peruvian husband, but after calling to arrange the interview and the photo shoot we learned that the restaurant... is closing. Perhaps, after reading these lines, Kristina will change her mind? Because Kaunas residents need their ceviche! It is truly challenging to maintain a small, authentic eatery that is not a part of a huge chain not only in Kaunas but Lithuania in general. Something always stands in the way of good ideas – be it neighbours, naivety or competitors. Two of the oldest Kaunas restaurants – Medžiotojų užeiga and Žaliukė – are not even sixty! We have Spurginė that provides an ecstatic experience to Kaunas visitors, a few other places that are in business for more than a decade, and that’s about it.
One coffee, please Therefore, with this issue, we urge you to eat out more often instead of spending your evenings at home. And not just eat – instead of ordering a portion of Georgian khinkali, you can learn how to make them. You will be able to find out where in the Resident rubric. You’ll then find out that bar BO, which has raised more than one generation of Kaunas alternatives and has recently celebrated its 23rd anniversary has a small brother called B2O. Moreover, you will learn about the adventures of Kaunas canteens. We will even share the collection of Kaunas gastronomic history with you! While preparing this issue we have also learned about what’s
tasty in Zapyškis and remembered one place of the new Kaunas that gave in to reality. Before digging in, we’d like to remember one short, but sweet part of Kaunas history. In 1896, a Polish nobleman Aleksandras Perkovskis established a patisserie in the (then) Nikolay Avenue. It was the only one in Kaunas! The tiny place referred to as the “Polish corridor” was perfect for discussing political and cultural news and perhaps even inciting a few revolutionary ideas because – where else? The café is the best social network, and it works best when we forget about the internet. 2018
JUNE
3
Y R O T S P
H
O
T
O
One of the heroes of this issue is a collector Jonas Palys. One of his passions is kaunistics (all about Kaunas) and also all the things that you were able to find in Kaunas restaurants and canteens back in the day. Bills, dishes, interior photographs... Jonas revealed that he’s planning to set up a small museum for his collection. We will definitely invite you to the opening!
The edible kaunistics By Gunaras BakĹĄejevs Photos by Lukas Mykolaitis
4
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
Bill from “Gildija restaurant, circa 1980. 2018
JUNE
5
P
H
O
T
O
S
T
O
R
Y
Coupons for hot meals were given in canteens, summer camps or other mass events. Circa 1980.
The canteen of “Dinamo” factory. Circa 1980.
6
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
Stamped with a logo of USSR Ministry of River Navigation, this plate could have been used in restaurants of Kaunas.
2018
JUNE
7
Coupons for hot meals were given in canteens, summer camps or other mass events. Circa 1980.
P
H
O
T
O
S
T
O
R
Y
The Russian word means “Public catering”. Circa 1950-1970.
The canteen of “Elektra” factory. Ceramic wall by R. Speičienė. Circa 1980.
8
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
The canteen of Kaunas radio factory. Circa 1980.
2018
JUNE
9
H
O
T
O
S
T
O
R
Y
Teapot from Vilnius.
P
Salad bowl from Kaunas.
1 0
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
The canteen of Kaunas radio factory. Circa 1980.
The canteen of “Dinamo” factory. Circa 1980.
2018
JUNE
1 1
H T N O M E H
Canteen collector
F
T
Jonas Palys, a Žaliakalnis resident, is one of those people who are trying to go home every day on a different route. He also likes to explore the environment as if through a magnifying glass. Because you can never know where you’ll find an interesting detail to complement some collection with. If you’ve read the previous issue of Kaunas Full of Culture and an interview in it with the owner of an antique shop, Kęstutis Zenonas Šafranavičius, then you can view this interview as a second episode of the series about collectors. Will there be a sequel?!
T
O
P
I
C
O
By Gunars Bakšejevs Photos by Lukas Mykolaitis
1 2
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
2018
JUNE
1 3
T
O
P
I
C
O
F
T
H
E
M
O
N
T
H
Jonas is a historian interested in what he refers to as kaunistics (anything about Kaunas). During his studies, he lived in a student dormitory and like many students who are suddenly left without mom’s dishes, started experimenting in the kitchen. Unfortunately, his experiments were soon discontinued by peers because cuisine was not Jonas’ strongest suit. So, he was given the task of peeling potatoes.
1 4
He doesn’t cook to this day. And why should he? There are plenty of places in Kaunas that provide the food Jonas likes. And not just some places, but canteens! Jonas has visited currently functioning canteens and many that have already been closed, multiple times. And not only in Kaunas – our hero’s job is such that he often travels around Lithuania. What’s a canteen? You drink coffee in the cafe, at the restaurant you order from a menu, someone serves you, and in the canteen – you eat. You eat quickly, simply and cheaply. You come, you take a tray, point to what you’d like to eat, you pay, go to the table, eat, nod to a person next to you, drink your compote and take your empty plates away. Of course, public catering existed in the interwar period (a few of them were vegetarian!), but not as much as during the Soviet occupation, when in the process of industrialisation canteens were established even in the most remote of villages, collective farms and factories. So, the person could get full faster and run back to work. “As if the village was being artificially brought closer to the city”, believes Jonas. He is not at all surprised that after the restoration of independence and returning to the market economy, such places soon closed. Thanks to this massive planning, naturally, the dishes were
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
very similar everywhere because the cooks studied in the same technical colleges and the recipes were provided by the government. And, regarding products, there was not much to choose from. Most canteens in Kaunas today are private. Even those that don’t look like it. And they don’t look like it because employees are not changing that frequently. School and university canteens are also private. The times of the so-called “departmental” canteens – when workers are employed at the company itself – have already passed. One of the last ones was located in Kauno Švara (waste management firm) in Statybininkų Street. There is a canteen there, but it’s already a private business. A lovely, closed canteen is located in Kauno Pienas (dairy company). The prices there don’t bite – you can lunch there for only 2 euros and drink an infinite amount of kefir and yoghurt. Also, a ceramic panel interior was preserved there even after the renovation! However, if you wish to visit this dairy paradise, you must obtain a permit. “But I have no idea how”, saddens the photographer Jonas. As a historian, he mourns the permanently destroyed interiors that weren’t evaluated on time. “Unfortunately, there are some canteens that I’ve visited but didn’t take a picture, or the photos were lost, for example, Dirbtinio Pluošto or Freda furniture factory canteens.” It’s hard to say which canteen is the oldest in Kaunas, but the one near Soboras, in Laisvės Avenue that everyone knows best has been operating since 1961. We were told this during our lunch with Jonas there by, presumably, the oldest canteen employee. “See this blue painting there? During the renovation they removed it.
The canteen of former Kaunas radio factory, Draugystės st. 19
I asked if they will return it and they did,” Jonas keeps track of all the details. It’s a copy of Arvydas Pakeliūnas woodcut Perkūno Namas (1967). There are several hundreds of them. “My parents have one, and I bought one for myself too.” His favourite canteen is located at Kauno Energoremontas company, in Chemijos Avenue. In the past, it was necessary to go through the common entrance of the company and to obtain a permit, but now the canteen is separated. It is owned by a family who has one more canteen in the industrial area. “I find food in Energoremontas tastier and cheaper. In the end, Laisvės Avenue has its added value, and in Energoremontas I would pay, probably, a euro less than here for what I eat.” About prices: Jonas was lucky enough to lunch for 70 cents in Zarasai, but he had to eat twice because the meatballs were tiny – for pupils. “For me, canteen food is simply tastier. It’s soft as if someone had already chewed it once. It’s tasty because it’s simple. The worst thing is when they
try to imitate good food and hire a restaurant-level chef. Why would you do that?” asks Jonas. His wife, on the other hand, rarely accompanies him. “Once I had taken her to Joniškis. We were having lunch, and she laughed all the time because she had never seen cepelinas (potato dumpling) in the shape of Žemaičių blynai (potato pancakes with meat) – maybe because we were close to the Latvian border?” And now let’s talk about favourites. Jonas never eats liver because he just doesn’t like it. Žemaičių blynai (potato pancakes with meat) taste best in Laisvės Avenue canteen. All meat dishes and sauces are best at the Kauno Energoremontas. It’s best when the garnish is simple - carrots, cabbages. The canteen classics. A compote is a must for Jonas, and it’s not good when they make it out of syrup. Is jelly still the favourite dessert in canteens? Our respondent doesn’t eat it but remembers the wobbly sweets well.
2018
JUNE
1 5
H T N O M E H T F O C I P O T
Canteen on LaisvÄ—s Avenue 23
1 6
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
The sloppiness of the canteen can be identified by the taste of its borscht because it is very easy to make. If you overboil it, it becomes brown. That means that the cook is useless. You can also rate it based on the herring – if it’s slushy, then it means it’s old and bad. Despite that Jonas only got poisoned once and not in the traditional canteen but one of the commercial chain restaurants. “I recently ate an egg for lunch, but only because it was placed on the plate produced in the Soviet times. I thought that it’s possible that I don’t have it in my collection!” laughed the historian. After lunch, he bought the plate from the canteen and lent a part of his collection to the magazine’s photo story. By the way, did you know why there were holes in the canteen cutlery back in the day? Because they needed to be tied to the table so that they wouldn’t be stolen. Staff would even wash them while they were tied. In some places – not Lithuania, however, but neighbouring Poland – even the plates were nailed to the table. But that was only around 1990 when there was a shortage of everything.
Are there people who hide the fact that they eat in canteens? Yes, almost as many as there are people who conceal the fact that they shop in cheap stores or second-hand clothing shops. But that was before. The expert noticed that for about three years now, Kaunas has been experiencing a canteen renaissance. New and modern ones are being opened, “Burgers are nice, but people want to have soup every day too.” To sell specific lunch, to work short hours and have a small number of employees – isn’t that a good business idea? “The idea that you can only make money by selling alcohol is becoming unfashionable.” Jonas avoids going to places that offer lunch of the day because more than the food served there he dislikes the visitors who only talk about loans and office business. However, he mostly likes the new canteens. The canteen collector shares his impressions on the Facebook page with a simple name – Kauno valgyklos (Kaunas canteens). Often, his posts serve as a suggestion for friends or hungry people that stumbled onto the page accidentally. His blog is about two or three years old. Before that, he would share the lunch photos on his personal Facebook profile. It seems that there are plenty of posts to come since Jonas’ aim is to eat lunch in a different place every day. Even if he has to return to the same ones again and again. In the end, things change: spots open and close. “Of course, food is part of the culture. In the Czech Republic it’s beer, in Trakai it is kibinai (traditional Karaite pastry) and in Karmėlava – cepelinai. Everybody knows that. And in Kaunas, like in Vilnius, as it should be in a big city, we can find many things, and that’s interesting.” Bon appetite!
2018
JUNE
facebook.com/kaunovalgyklos
The tastiest potato dishes are in Europos Avenue, in one of the potato peeling places. Say what? It turns out that the staff of the restaurants located in the centre and the Old Town are not peeling potatoes themselves because it’s a very messy process and there’s no room for special machines. Therefore, such places buy the already peeled potatoes from the peeling plants. The same canteen serves wonderful vėdarai (intestine sausage filled with potato)! “There’s only one problem – they play Russian music.”
1 7
T N E D I S E R
Georgia is one of the most popular travel destinations for Lithuanians. Perhaps due to the sincerity and hospitality of people, beautiful nature, flavours and several decades of sisterly experience. If not all that, we would not have met Kristina Baranauskaitė, a Kaunas resident who has been promoting the art and flavours of Georgia for two and a half years at her studio in K. Donelaičio Street, at the junction with Vasario 16-osios Street. After the interview, the hostess told us we must sign up for the cooking classes. They appeal to people who had already visited Georgia and also those who are planning on going there; those who like to cook, in general, who like to communicate, co-workers or people who are celebrating something. The spacious kitchen fits a dozen and more people and, sometimes, after meals, you can hear people singing. There are some regular fans – the eternal students! We hear that most people like to make khinkali and khachapuri; a lot of evenings are dedicated to specific products. When we visited, we found prepped leeks lying on a large table, and the next day would be all about tomatoes. Gruzijos Meno ir Skonio Namai (Georgian Art and Flavor House) is not just a name – to reach the kitchen, you really have to go through the gallery, the walls of which are decorated with paintings, photographs, souvenirs and accessories. And of course, the bright-coloured spices that we received as gifts. But we want to assure you – that did not affect the positive vibe of this article.
There would be nothing without mom By Kotryna Lingienė and Kęstutis Lingys Photos by Teodoras Biliūnas
1 8
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
2018
JUNE
1 9
T N E D I S E R 2 0
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
Kristina, have you ever researched the history of these premises? For many years it served as a driving school. One time, our cooking class was visited by an accountant, who used to work here – she was delighted that the place had changed so nicely. I have also met a woman who lived here once, entirely by accident. I met her and her granddaughter waiting at the door one day when we were renovating. She asked if she could enter the house and told me that she lived here, probably until 1972, when she got a permit to move to Israel. Even her wedding took place here! She kind of “blessed” my future endeavours. You have earned an art critics degree in Vytautas Magnus University. How did gastronomy enter your life? Or perhaps it was always a part of it? You could say that I grew up in the kitchen – it was my little kingdom. In Georgia, everything revolves around the kitchen and in it; therefore it was also a very natural thing in our home. I always enjoyed experimenting, learning, tasting and observing. I grew up in a Georgian kitchen that doesn’t have any obligations or routine and prioritises good aura. My friends are to blame for the fact that I am now teaching others how to cook! They said – how long are you going to do this by yourself, teach others! In my case, setting up a gallery only and restricting myself to art promotion would not have made sense economically. The kitchen set everything in place, and art remains very close to people. While they’re learning and spending their time here, we communicate, and they are also interested in the paintings. How do you choose the artists you present in your gallery? How many exhibitions have you held? It depends, really. You get to know
people, you communicate, you see the person and think about future exhibitions. There were probably five of them. Do Lithuanians buy Georgian art? Yes. Nino Chakvetadze and Buba Arabuli’s exhibition was very successful. Most of Buba’s paintings were bought! She’s a wonderful artist. And Nino’s art was turned into a large collection of postcards, magnets, baskets and cushions... People list their demands, and we try to meet their expectations. Do Georgians living in Lithuania visit your studio? The diaspora is not that big, but yes, they do come – especially to the exhibition openings. I wouldn’t say it’s the centre of attraction, but some nice acquaintances are made here from time to time. By the way, more often we are visited by young people who come here to study through the exchange programs. There’s a restaurant called Mtevani in Laisvės Avenue that belongs to the family who came here to study. Do you know them? Yes. I think they are great. There’s plenty of space in this world, so I am really glad that such restaurants and cafes are opening up. The format of my studio is different. In my classes I spread the message of art, Georgian culture – I represent the cuisine of arts and traditions. When did you first visit Georgia? If I am not wrong, you were born in Lithuania? Yes, in Lithuania. I used to visit Georgia several times a year since I was a kid, especially in the summer. We have a house there. I always bring spices back to Lithuania – dried tarragon, basil. There’s much more sun there, so the herbs are more aromatic and have more flavour.
2018
JUNE
2 1
A M ET N T M
Ė
R N
EE
SS
II
D O
E
I have read that your mother is of the Greek-Georgian origin. It’s so interesting! And your dad is from Kaunas? How did they meet? My dad is from Prienai, and my mom is a Pontic Greek. During the Greek-Turkish war, my great-grandparents ran away and found refuge in Georgia. They built their home there and thus started the Greek diaspora. The story of how my parents met is fascinating. They met in Pyatigorsk. My dad was on a work trip, and my mother was travelling. He saw my mother and decided to grab a bull by the horns. Three days later they went to Lithuania. But our family has a very strong connection to Georgia. I think that in mixed families the harmony of cultures is very beautiful, although in our case it consists of different temperaments and traditions – North and South. Mom contributes to your work, right? A lot! My parents lived in Georgia until my father’s death. After the loss, living there lost its meaning for her. So, she supports me both physically and morally, both in the kitchen and with exhibitions. There would be nothing without my mother. I am very grateful for both of my parents, but mostly – my mom. We talked a lot before opening the studio. I told her that if she blesses my idea, I will take this path. If not the family and strong support, I would have a hard time moving forward, dreaming or creating. Is it traditional in Georgia for a mother to be the centre of the family? The cult of mother as the keeper of the hearth is enormous there. The honour of the family is associated with the honour of a woman. Although from the outside, it may seem that men are the dominant ones. This is especially true in the older generation.
2 2
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
And how about you – do you consider yourself Lithuanian or Georgian? Half and half! I am proud of both of my homelands. Of course, I look a lot like my mother, and I have spent so much time there with my grandparents and friends that it must have left a mark. When I spend too much time in Georgia – where everything is simple, you don’t need to put so much effort in dealing with problems, people try to avoid stress and want to be happy here and now – the adaptation process in Lithuania becomes more difficult. How do you choose what films to show during the film nights at the studio? Actually, even the seasons can influence my decision. In fall, the mood demands certain choices, and in spring they can be completely different. I alternate between classics and contemporary films. I want to show the whole range – different periods, various styles. Usually, everyone is interested in the old short films. Plenty of them were created in Georgia, and everyone well likes them. Of course, people like Pirosmani and other classics. We just spoke about the joy of life – their cinema is precisely about that. About being here and now, enjoying the moment. If you had to name one product without which the Georgian kitchen would not be what it is, what product would it be? I would choose three – walnuts, herbs and pomegranates. Would you be able to surprise a Georgian with Lithuanian food? I would like to make the cold beetroot soup there, but I would have to take pickled beetroot with me, and that’s complicated! I think it would be a nice experience for them. Their
But I can tell you what would surprise Georgians in Lithuania: drunk people. Georgia is famous for its wine. Children are told about winemaking since a very young age. They are proud of it; it’s a part of the culture and not just a drink. They don’t get intoxicated; they don’t need to relax because they are already happy. They dance, sing and stay in the here and now. It’s the biggest shame and sin to be drunk! You won’t see a drunken Georgian on the street. If someone gets in trouble, his friends take care of him. In my opinion, this is partly because Georgians are much more positive than
Lithuanians. And when you don’t have that feature inside of you – the dark side – nothing comes out when you’re intoxicated, and no problems arise. I am not saying that Georgians never get sad or angry – things happen, but all the issues are solved right there and then, instead of suppressing those emotions. Just like kids. Is the Georgian language difficult? Quite demanding. There are many laryngeal sounds, like elsewhere in the East. I cannot say I speak fluently, but I can communicate. The alphabet might seem complicated, but each letter has its equivalent, they are not hieroglyphs. The numeral system is based on twenty, like in France. They don’t have sixty – they have twenty times 3. What is the most beautiful place in Georgia? You should come and decide [laughs]! Georgia is very diverse. Different climate zones, altitudes. But for me, of course, it is the place I grew up in. A village 40 km from Borjomi, high up in the mountains. We travelled around Georgia with my husband a lot and he, despite not being local, also admitted that the village was the best – it has everything!
2018
JUNE
gruzijospasaulis.lt
cuisine is based on entirely different principles. They eat a lot of vegetables and meat, but they do not mix things. They might cut a tomato, but they will not mix it with the salad. I think that many Georgians could work as tasters! They can perfectly sense and combine various flavours. Each dish is like a musical piece – there’s a dominant and some complementary elements. There’s nothing new to invent; they love to follow traditions, it would be difficult to surprise them. Georgians would not understand grated potato pancakes. Potatoes can be boiled and fried, but grated…? By the way, Lithuanian curd cheese would make sense to them.
2 3
H T N O M E H T F O C
About Blue Orange
O
P
I
Blue Orange (or BO) bar located on Muitinės Street has entered its midtwenties. It is the bar that gave birth to and educated entire generations of bar visitors. The bar’s director Virgita Kuprėnienė and its manager Vaida Diliūtė told us all about BO community’s features, it’s historical moments and why it was - and continues to be - frequented by wonderful people.
T
By Julija Račiūnaitė Photos by Artūras Bulota
2 4
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
2018 2 0 1B8I R ŽJ EULNI E S
2 5
T
O
P
I
C
O
F
T
H
E
M
O
N
T
H
Let’s go back to the beginning. Blue Orange has been running for 24 years already. V. K. We, as a company, are a year older, because we were established in 1994. Since we renovated it by ourselves - painted, demolished, brought all kinds of things from home - the opening of the bar itself happened only on May 5, 1995. It all began with the wish to open a different bar. Not a typical Kaunas bar: we didn’t want it to be a fancy, but a democratic place that would be friendly and close to people; the one which you can visit without make-up or dressing up (at the time it was like a slap in the face). The main founders of the bar are probably Deivis and Claudia Mačiuliai: my brother and his wife. When they began developing this idea, Deividas was the practical one and Claudia was the moving spirit - it was she who came up with the bar’s name. Claudia loved the surrealist poet Paul Éluard and she took the name from one of his verses, “The world is like a blue orange.” We’ve heard a variety of hilarious versions guessing the origin of the name, but I can assure you it doesn’t stand for the Blue Oyster as one of the rumors suggest. Do you have regular visitors that frequent BO since its opening day? V. K. I don’t think we have people who would be sitting here every day or week for 20 years, but some do return for certain occasions. They come with families, children, and there are also a few kids of the frequent visitors that now work behind our bar. Seems like a dynasty. V. K. Yes, the old visitors raised us a new generation of BO fans.
2 6
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
How did bars of Kaunas look like when you opened yours? Were you alone in your genre? V. K. There were a few similar bars: a discotheque-like Telis bar, Antis, Skliautai and Kregždutė beloved by students. How did your audience change over the years, how does it look like now? V. K. It’s young and diverse. V. D. On the other hand, we noticed that more and more visitors of the older generation are interested in the bar. It’s interesting that the old bohemians can relate well to the modern hipster youth. Tell us, what events that took place in this bar in those few decades you find the most fun, silly or beautiful? V. K. There were so many of them. After remembering them, I am not sure if they’re funny, but they sure are typical of us. One of the founders and old-timers of the bar, Ramūnas, told a story about a neighbors’ guest who upon arriving to the party closed up the entrance of the bar with his car. And BO visitors have a specific sense of justice and if necessary are able to quickly join forces for a common goal and thus, all the BO’s guests got outside, lifted the car and moved it with their hands into the middle of the street. Soon, there was a traffic jam, drivers got angry, started beeping - many people were dissatisfied. So, the owner of the car, with the help of BO’s visitors was taught a serious public lesson. V. D. I don’t remember why, but once the bar guests wrapped a security car with a plastic wrap and tied it to a street pole. A very nice and meaningful act.
Virgita’s on the left; Vaida’s on the right!
2018
JUNE
2 7
H T N O M E H T F O C I P O T 2 8
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
V. K. Once, one visitor spent a long time in the toilet. Finally, he came out all wrapped in a toilet paper - mummified. He looked really impressive. V. D. One evening, the bar was full of people. Someone started playing the guitar in one of the halls. Then, another person in a different hall pulled out a pipe and slowly a music band was assembled. The people in the bar got into a circle and started to dance. It all started spontaneously and grew into a good family feast. V. K. I remember, once in the morning we came to work and found the whole bar decorated with crayons. Apparently, some older artist (cannot remember his surname) felt inspired and started drawing - on the walls and on the ground. Do you tolerate such bouts of self-expression? V. K. Yes, as long as it doesn’t harm the guests, employees or equipment. That time it was a pity to destroy the drawing but we needed to mop the floor. V. D. The artist comes to this day. He brings paint, a canvas and paints our visitors. Do you hold personal celebrations in BO? V. K. Yes, always! We love to celebrate birthdays and all sorts of other occasions. Have you ever brought your mom here? V. D. My grandma was doing shots at the bar. V. K. Our kids celebrated their birthdays here. You have recently opened a new BO bar. Compare them. V. K. Never thought that we’d become a chain, but - never say never.
The bars are similar in their atmosphere, which is artistic, democratic and open. We opened it for the “grown” BO fans. We felt that sometimes people just want to chat calmly, have some coffee or even bring their mom over but the first BO lacks that chamber feel, it’s a much wilder place. It appears that by opening a second BO we made many people happy, so I guess, we have hit it right. Are you considering the possibility of a third, fourth or fifth bar? V. K. Three is a beautiful number! Somehow that third bar pops up in discussions. Recently, when we were sitting at the second BO with my brother, one old BO visitor came up to us. He gave us a coin (Litas) that was given to him by a grandma and told us, “Thank you so much for the second BO. When after many years of living abroad I returned to Kaunas and visited the first bar, I felt a bit too old for it, so I was sent over here. This coin is for your third BO, so that I can visit it when I return the next time.” Then we’ll be waiting for the third bar! And what are you planning on doing in the first BO? V. K. The word “planning” is hard to use now because the whole building is being sold. Oh no! V. K. Everyone reacts in this way. We were shocked too after learning about it. It doesn’t necessarily mean that we will move, because the new owner may be interested in maintaining the bar. I’ll tell you a joke. Once, on the April Fools’ Day we announced that we’re opening a BO bar in Vilnius. After that we received such a huge number of CVs and various offers that if we really were to open a bar it would have been a wonderful bar with an amazing team in the capital. Hence, no matter where we’ll be, we will continue to thrive and attract wonderful people.
2018
JUNE
2 9
N G I S E D F O Y T I C O C S E N K
A U
N
A
S
–
U
Building facades usually leave a mark on a city’s face for a long time, thus creating the most vivid part of its visual story. Public interiors make up a slightly more intimate portion of this narrative. However, the latter tend to change more frequently, often delineating the spirit of an era, but also disappearing quite quickly. Only recently, the approach towards interior design started changing. People began viewing it as an art form of lasting value.
Kaunas Metro(polis) By Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis
3 0
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
This time, the story is about one of the most famous buildings in the city. Or more precisely, about a very short segment of its life: that decade, which in the memory of many still seems like the recent past, but since which our city and its party spots have actually changed radically. A sort of twilight zone between the already evaluated past and the surrounding present - the first decade of this century. That building is Metropolis and the story is about the City Metro night club which had opened in its basement in 2003 and about the transformation of the restaurant’s interior that took place subsequently. We were told all about it by architect Loreta Janušaitienė, who together with her colleague Jūratė Sodeikienė were entrusted to design these premises. Metropolis existed in this form for a very short time, only a few years. But let’s start from the beginning.
The Metropolis building, which has left a significant imprint in the city’s history, will be celebrating its 120th anniversary. A lot has been written about its past during the interwar period and in the Soviet era, but the recent past that’s slowly becoming history too, is pretty much forgotten by most. Today, it is incorrectly assumed that Metropolis lost the ambience of its original interior during the period of independence, but actually, most of the original elements were destroyed much earlier. The middle-aged Kaunas residents remember the restaurant interior which was created in the Soviet times. After the reconstruction in 1981, the old premises lost most of its remaining elements. With the arrival of the new millennium, the talks about adapting it to the new era increased.
2018
JUNE
3 1
N G I S E D F O Y T I C O C S E N U – S A N A U K
First in line was the previously unutilized cellar of the building because after a pretty grim last decade of the 20th century a trend of new night clubs had started. The architect recalls that back then it was fashionable to establish party spots in basements. Few of the biggest changes that transformed the tendencies of overcrowded entertainment interiors were the minimalist Siena club and Miesto Sodas restaurant designed by colleagues from Estonia and Kaunas. Loreta remembers that at the time architects had opportunities to use higher quality materials and make bolder decisions. And clients, who had traveled the world, allowed more experimentation, “You were able to view the process of designing a club as if it was a production of a play.” The club’s name was not merely a reference to the historic Metropolis, but also reflected the impression that architects had upon descending to the oblong basement of the building: it looked like a metro. It also dictated a part of the club’s concept which was supposed to be a reference to the underground station. And still - the biggest inspiration
3 2
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
came from sci-fi movies popular at the time. Loreta lists the movie Minority Report as the main influence behind the visual solutions in the club and the A.I. Artificial Intelligence as a spiritual one. A large part of the club’s aesthetics consisted of projections shown on the walls. Ten cameras were bought especially for that. Since it was financially difficult to visit clubs abroad, the architects drew their inspiration from the MTV repertoire of the time. That is how one of the most interesting features appeared - the visitors descended to the club through a light spiral. The idea of it was borrowed from a music video. One of the toughest construction tasks was the deepening of the main dance floor. In order to adjust the venue (that lacked sufficient height) to a new function it had to be deepened by almost a meter and that required technology that was expensive at the time. Even A. Tarkovsky came close to almost leaving his aesthetic mark at the Kaunas night club, “We found sand after digging under the floor and I right away thought of that famous scene from Stalker. All nightclub’s life would
take place on the sand. We wanted to leave that exotica that opened up so unexpectedly, to use the concrete structures, dark lighting and everyone would dance and walk barefoot on the sand,” told the architect. The idea was probably too bold for the clients and thus wasn’t implemented. Instead of prevailing isolated and highlighted interior elements, the club’s main feature was its “bunker-like, futuristic high-tech whole and the visitor was supposed to feel like an actor in a film.” Still, many solutions demanded new technological approaches. The architect remembers how hard it was to find a person to build a bar table which was supposed to create an impression of a luminous monolith based on the idea of “mystical cosmic technology that doesn’t have visible elements connecting the details.” Rarely used in Lithuania at the time, LED technology of “running lines” was used at the back of the bar containing a seamless moving text. While designing the club, architects had to fight the construction workers who almost ruined the idea of handrails “suspended in the air.” They had to save the design element that the workers decided to implement in their own way in an hour before the concrete had settled. They probably saw it as architect’s mistake. Just like with the high-tech solutions - new in Lithuania, at the time - when some of the interior communications and technologies are left outside. Because of the same reason workers almost covered the deliberately exposed glass door opening mechanism. In practice, club’s visual aesthetics was controlled by computer. For example, the club’s business card was a huge console screen visible through the glass door from the street which broadcast live images from the dancefloor; the video mixed by a DJ
was also displayed simultaneously on all surfaces of the hall. Nevertheless, it all ended well: the club opened on September 29, 2003 and the visitors were met with concrete aesthetics, LED stripes of a running “metro station” and video projections. The current press referred to the club as a “spaceship.” After a year, the architects received another task: to design the interior for Metropolis restaurant. They aimed at maintaining the same aesthetics but wanted to create a slightly different concept which would refer to the spirit of metropolis encoded in the name of the restaurant. It was also dominated by minimalism and in the country’s context of the time, the restaurant probably still looked unusual. Loreta recalled that the only surviving element of the original interior - after the previous reconstructions - was a ceiling stucco design, which was preserved under the ceiling panels. In addition to preserving the name of the restaurant (the owners wanted it changed), the architects kept the art deco sign that was found a few decades ago. It’s still hanging! “We wanted to highlight the former prestigious status of the restaurant with contemporary aesthetics, without kitsch. In order to keep in touch with the past, we’ve chosen the portly red as the dominant color,” remembered the architect. Unfortunately, after a couple of years, both the club and the restaurant were added to the list of closed party spots and Kaunas interiors that have vanished. In this case, the period of thinning Laisvės Avenue contributed to it. Our story only covers the history of one building’s interior, but sooner or later, many will disappear without a trace. Will any of the current party spots remain in the future?
2018
JUNE
3 3
E R U T L U C F O L A T I P A C N A E P O R U E –
Stuba. Not a restaurant! By Kotryna Lingienė and Kęstutis Lingys Photos by Teodoras Biliūnas
K
A
U
N
A
S
We arrived to Zapyškis from a boiling hot city a bit too early (even though we managed to get stuck in traffic on Kaunas-Šakiai highway), so we decided to take a walk around the currently restored St. John the Baptist Church. “You can’t go there, unless you come with me,” we were soon stopped by a thick voice. We turned around and, well, you can’t say we got acquainted because there was no time to exchange names, but we said hi to an archeologist who was cooling down by the river after the day’s work. We talked about the coins found next to the church, the amount of which indicates that three hundred years ago it was a busy market. We asked if there was also an alehouse nearby, but the archeologist laughed and added, “Only in folk songs.”
3 4
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
2018
JUNE
3 5
E R U T L U C F O L A T I P A C N A E P O R U E – S A N U A K
His colleague, in fact, motioned to the town, “There, that little house was an alehouse.” But this time, we’re not here for “that” house but for the one located across the street. One of the hostesses of Stuba is already waving at us and inviting us in. We take our shoes off and barely keep track of the names - Daiva, Kristina, Živilė, Rasa. Information technology specialist, ecologist, painter and a kindergarten teacher. That evening we didn’t get to know all the women who have been making Zapyškis life much more fun for four years already, but there will be other opportunities because we’d really like to visit the Indian restaurant. Although Stuba is not really a restaurant! The owners all laugh saying that they are more eaters than hostesses. Kristina, having read on
3 6
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
the Internet about the idea of a one-day restaurant soon infected her friends with it. But even before that in Zapyškis, on the junction with a road to Ežerėlis, they have tried Italian dishes made by one acquaintance, “Everything here happens through friends!” By the way, the dinner took place in Stuba before its renovation. Two food festivities are planned to take place this summer. On July 22nd it will be dedicated to coffee and desserts (“We were given a coffee machine!”) and on the 4th of August, the already mentioned Indian food one will be held. Everyone liked it, so it’s worth doing it again. Also, women are planning on buying a large cast iron pot and making a vegetable stew in fall. You won’t need to register in advance, you can simply drive there by car or by bicycle.
Stuba has much more to offer than food, but it’s such a universal thing that it does bring people together. “Not everyone knows how to sing or draw, but everyone eats,” says Daiva. She adds that almost after every event they have to stay for another couple of hours with tea and cookies. And they make the tea in Stuba from local herbs! Almost all the owners of Stuba work in Kaunas but raise their kids in Zapyškis. After meeting at a cultural center where they sang in a folk group, women soon started spending time together. “Once we counted that together with kids we are about thirty people in total, and we were unable to fit anywhere with them,” said the women. We could call it fate that the house on the crossroad, after its owner’s death, was given to women as a gift. After that they turned it into place that is liked by all of their children. Since one of the friends is an architect and all the women agreed to repaint the walls, it wasn’t hard to bring Stuba to a new life. With the help of the others sewerage was built as well as an extension. There is a little kitchen, a spacious and sunny living-room with a piano and a little garden. What more does one need? All that is definitely enough for sutartinės (Lithuanian multipart songs) evenings, philosophy lectures, discussions about family, children, nature and arts and crafts or even mosquito repellent workshops. “At first, we thought that it will be difficult to find people to attend our events because it’s Zapyškis, maybe some will think it’s not cool enough, but no one said no thus far,” smiles Kristina.
If there’s a need, you can spend a night here. “We had hosted various travelers. We have ten mattresses that we inherited from Jadagoniai camp,” says Daiva, who seems to be the biggest enthusiast of Stuba, constantly involving her friends in various adventures. Since they have common interests and share attitudes, there is no need to discuss much about events or activities. “It’s quite scary to dream because whenever we want something it all comes true very easily,” says Rasa, who right away remembers a magical evening with Trys Keturiose sutartinės singers. We have interviewed one of its members - Daiva Vyčinienė - last year. Owners of Stuba, their children, friends and acquaintances visit the forest every month, where their common story actually began. It’s a unifying and very important experience that reminds us why we’re here and that we are not masters of anything. In March, everyone made a broom, in April - birch-bark buckets and in May - whistles. Guide Tomas, who knows of the natural treasures - shows everyone the way. In summer, life in Zapyškis, like elsewhere, gets more active. The part of the town that is closer to Nemunas River has a resort status: you can move with a ferry from Kulautuva. There are plans in the future to install cable lifts, but for now it’s ok as it is. “Once in a while there are tourists inquiring where they could get some coffee, and of course, we make it for them.” There is no inn, cafe or a bar in Zapyškis, the closest establishment is probably in Kačerginė. But there’s a Zapynė firm baking bread nearby and - next to the gas station - a small farmers’ market. We bought wonderful cucumbers
2018
JUNE
3 7
E R U T L U C F O L A T I P A C N A E P O R U E – S A N U A K 3 8
pickled in Kazlų Rūda. When we asked what other local products we should try, the women suggested Lekėčių šakočiai (spit cakes). “We move in this sort of triangle - Zapyškis-Ežerėlis-Lekėčiai, - the respondents explain the geography of their leisure. - We are not one yard. We consider people living 15 km away our neighbors.” And that’s still closer than Facebook friends. “We need to maintain Stuba, so in addition to donations we receive during events, we write projects anywhere we can: to Council for Culture, municipality, the ministries,” explains Daiva. That is how she stumbled upon Kaunas 2022 program Fluxus Labas! “It was in December that I’ve read on Facebook about the new community program and meeting in Kulautuva. I got there after work and there were five people and me from Zapyškis. That evening everyone learned that I’m from Zapyškis.” Since spring Stuba is hosting a Fluxus Lab. After joining the network of Kaunas 2022, Stuba hosted a lecture about art deco. A blanket for Europe was crocheted there and the mighty birch-bark was collected and there will be even more activities and experiences that first and foremost interest the owners of Stuba. In the meantime, it seems that their interests coincide with other peoples’. If there’s time of course. And people in Zapyškis don’t have that much of it, although there aren’t that many job opportunities in Zapyškis, unless you create them yourself - most people work in Kaunas and on the weekends labor at their homesteads. The latter is obvious while driving by!
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
“I believe that Kaunas district will definitely notice the benefit of the Capital of Culture. Especially young people because now everything is pretty stagnant. They find it boring. The town festivities are all the same and there’s a lack of new ideas and ways to act. Currently we’re investigating Fluxus and they are investigating us, and, it seems that we understand each other,” Daiva laughs once again. Kite festival - the biggest event of the year in the town - has already taken place. Also, the initiative Open Days in Countryside that introduces smaller towns of Latvia and Lithuania took place during the same weekend. Everyone visiting Stuba was able to see photographs of the old Zapyškis, collected from various sources by Zapyškis resident Jonas Muraška.
facebook.com/KurybosStubaZapyskyje But dear friends, how about a restaurant? “Perhaps when the children are older, when there won’t be any other worries,” the women laugh again. “You know, one businesswoman said that we’re doing everything to not make any money, - noticed Rasa. - But we feel great when we don’t need to answer to anyone for our ideas,” says Kristina before seeing us off to Kaunas.
2018
JUNE
facebook.com/FluxusLabas
But really, what should you do if the traditions of your town are buried deep under archeological strata and an unfortunate history of the region that deformed the culture of communication is to blame? Should you fry fish sticks and watch bad TV? And if there aren’t any traditional Zapyškis dishes, then who says they cannot be invented? And if they can, then where else if not in Stuba?
kaunas2022.eu
And what else can you do in the summer? Jauno miesto šventė (Young Town Festival) will take place on the 2nd of June in Ežerėlis and then it’s the Saint John’s Eve and it’s best celebrated on Altoniškių mound. And in July? Then, we get back to the gastronomic mood of this issue. In July, Lekėčiai hosts a blueberry festival that offers a new theme for its participants every year. Last year it was jam and Stuba’s blueberry and rowan fruit jam won the third place, or maybe the second? None of the women remember but they sold their jams right away to those who were looking for souvenirs. The jar labels, of course, were drawn by Živilė, who also makes posters for the events. “Daiva had some dried rowan fruits, so that’s who we came up with it,” revealed the new recipe Rasa.
3 9
Merkurijus
S U J I M
E
R
K
U
R
In 1895, after the orthodox cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul was built, new buildings started emerging around it in the beginning of the (then) Nikolay Avenue. Ona Presienė, the owner of one lot nearby, built a first-class hotel based on Nikolay Andrejev’s project. The hotel was favored by soldiers and bureaucrats. The first floor had a restaurant, of course, and a few shops. Now, let’s fast forward and skip almost 130 years and pop into Nuogas. The name of the brand-new restaurant-bar in Kaunas was definitely inspired by Petras Mazūras sculpture Man standing nearby and guarding the peace of M. Žilinskas Art Gallery. You will find its new interpretation wearing soldier boots in the dark bar which looks like it had been scorched (that’s also a curtsey to history). The author of this “half” sculpture is Kęstutis Keparutis. Above Nuogas – a place that balances between high bar culture and Asian food - you will find a dance music club that is also partial to the former hotel. In addition to that, bar Lizdas is also located nearby. And we are establishing Merkurijus – an imaginary Kaunas souvenir shop, the shelves of which will be updated every month.
4 0
1
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
Photographed at Nuogas, LaisvÄ—s Avenue 21
4
5
2 3
2018
JUNE
4 1
1
BaBa easy chair JotJot www.jotjot.com €1500
JotJot brand that unifies creative talents has brought a second “Oscar” of design from New York to Kaunas. This year’s winner was BaBa, the “furniture pet.” Its authors are Iskos Berlin – Aleksej Iskos and Boris Berlin based in Denmark. The armchair is admirable, and JotJot also offers to stroke or hug a two-seater and even a three-seater version of the same piece! 2
Magazine for Kaunas Į
J
U
S
Kaunas Photography Gallery www.kaunasgallery.lt €15
M
E
R
K
U
R
I
The varied bunch of authors – including several Kaunas full of Culture contributors - have already produced a second issue of the bilingual magazine presenting an alternative, hidden or inadvertently invisible face of Kaunas. Dedicated to water, it lists the city’s fountains, invites to wade in the streets named after rivers, questions the pool fishes and even captures the aesthetics of flooded ceilings. 3
Jewelry collection The Concrete City
CELSIUS 273 www.facebook.com/CELSIUS273C €199 We have already introduced the handmade concrete jewelry produced in Kaunas once. This time, jeweler Gerda Liudvinavičiūtė invited architect Ligita Ažukaitė-Lileikė to join her. They both observed Kaunas interwar architecture for a very long time, discussed and experimented and finally realized the cultural heritage as objects of contemporary design. The collection can be tried on at the Nyčės Ūsai Gallery.
4 2
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
4
Maps – Wallographer’s Notes and Modernist’s Guid Kaunas IN www.kaunastic.lt Free of charge
The most recent copies of the illustrated map series It’s Kaunastic twins this time - are already available in the city. Both are dedicated to the fact that Kaunas is a member of UNESCO Creative Cities Network and a UNESCO City of Design. Modernists will be happy about the familiar, but perhaps unnecessarily forgotten public and residential interwar buildings, handily marked on the city map. And wallographers – it’s a neologism that can be understood if you rhyme it with “scenography” and “geography” – will be able to find the motley of tags, Nykoka Festival works and masterpieces of small architecture in one place. Soon to be available in English! 5
Almanac of the Poetry Spring 2018 Festival
Publishing House of the Lithuanian Writers Union www.rsleidykla.lt €8 The winner of the 54th Poetry Spring, Almis Grybauskas, has already been awarded, but you can still feel the poetry vibe in the city. And if you want for the impression to last, you can buy the traditional almanac of the festival. This year it was composed by Elžbieta Banytė, Neringa Butnoriūtė, Virginija Cibarauskė and Antanas Šimkus. Vytas Dekšnys selected the works of the Poetry Spring guests. Also, you will be able to hear some of the poems - the CD Poetry and Voice accompanying the almanac was prepared by Rimantas Kmita. We are also delighted by the designer of the book Lina Sasnauskaitė – a Kaunas-born artist who illustrated our cover last year.
2018
JUNE
4 3
Calendar Theatre Thursday, 06 07, 6 pm
Performance “Vietiniai” [“The Locals”] Kaunas State Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71
C
A
L
E
N
D
A
R
Directed by Rokas Lažaunykas, the absurd drama is a spider web of everyday errands and relationships, mixed with theatrical forms of expression. It analyzes types, characters and stereotypes well known in the Lithuanian society.
The play written by Birutė Kapustinskaitė (directed by Paulius Markevičius) carries on the ideas from Kahlil Gibran’s trilogy of “The Prophet’s Garden”, “The Prophet” and the unfinished “The Death of the Prophet”. The story created for the performance is of a community that has blind faith in their leader. They are waiting for the Prophet’s appearance; however, when faced with unexpected events, they lose their bearings and are not able to communicate among themselves anymore. Friday, 06 08, 6 pm
Performance “Baimė” [“Fear”] Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A Pet-friendly places
4 4
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
Sunday, 06 10, 12:00
Performance “Atostogos pas dėdę Titą” [“Holidays at Uncle Titas”] Kaunas State Puppet Theatre, Laisvės al. 87A
Little Henriet and Uncle Tit are experiencing very adventurous holidays. They’ve even managed to meet Louis XIV! Directed by Jūratė Januškevičiūtė.
June Sunday, 06 10, 3 pm
Performance “Žydroji paukštė” [“The Blue Bird”] Kaunas State Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71
“A Respectable Wedding” by Bertolt Brecht talks about society’s moral duplicity. In the play, the plot revolves around the premarital loss of the bride’s virginity. In the performance, Oskaras Koršunovas and his actors look deeper. Thursday, 06 14, 7 pm
Performance “Bjaurusis” [“The Ugly One”] Kaunas State Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71
A story of a brother and sister who help a little girl whose illness can only be cured by the magical Blue Bird of Happiness has been brought to the stage of Kaunas by Vaidotas Martinaitis. Awarded and nominated in last season’s theatre awards, it’s one of the most beautiful kid-friendly performances in the repertoire. Sunday, 06 10, 7 pm
Performance “Vestuvės” [“ Wedding”]
Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A
The play by German playwright Marius von Mayenburg (1972) is about the cult of beauty and its stereotypes. The protagonist of the story is a scientist named Lette, a rational minded man of work, who married a charming woman and lives a normal and fulfilling life. However, the scientist’s life turns out to be not so normal when his assistant is assigned to present the most important invention of Lette’s life, because Lette himself is … ugly.
2018
JUNE
4 5
Calendar Saturday, 06 16, 6 pm
Performance “Forest Brother”
The performance based on an unbelievable story of hiding for 50 years revealed by means of a share amount of Lithuanian and Latvian humour. The creative group was inspired by a true story of Latvian Jānis Pīnups (19252007). He became a sensation in 1995 when after 50 years of hiding from the Soviets in the woods he decided to go back to a normal life. This is not a documentary but rather a synthesis of humour and tragedy depicting the most painful and unavoidable historical moments. Simultaneously interpreted into English.
C
A
L
E
N
D
A
R
Kaunas State Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71
Sunday, 06 17, 12:00
Performance “Pasakų namai” [“Fairytale House”]
Kaunas State Puppet Theatre, Laisvės al. 87A
Exhibitions 05 10 – 06 20
Algis Griškevičius. “Mutantai” [“Mutants”] Gallery “Bright & Showy”, A. Mackevičiaus g. 27
The art of Algis Griškevičius criticizes the modern image of body, its constant and exaggerated celebration. The artist consciously deforms human body and creates unusual and unnatural context. His photographs, in fact, look like extremely short movies. 05 17 – 06 17
Eglė Velaniškytė. “Būties lengvumas. Čia ir dabar” [“Ease of Being. Here and now”] Kaunas Picture Gallery, K. Donelaičio g. 16
“East, West, home’s best”, reminds us an educational performance for 3-year olds and beyond directed by Rasa Bartninkaitė.
4 6
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
June The eternity in E. Velaniškytė’s paintings reveals itself in images of everyday life. Sacred stories depicted in the pictures merge into the flow of life, thus drawing everyone closer to Jesus Christ. However, the sacredness in E. Velaniškytė’s canvases is not perfect and invincible. Often, it lights up in painful scenes disclosing limited situations. The expressiveness of the palette that a canvas absorbs is brightened with a golden glow able to highlight dynamic rhythm of the paintings.
05 25 – 06 24
Aistė Gabrielė Černiūtė. “Sapne tik sapnas” [“Dream is Just a Dream”] A. Žmuidzinavičius Creations and Collections Museum, V. Putvinskio g. 64
05 18 – 10 31
Open-air photography exhibition “Pirmoji Lietuvos Respublika 1918–1940 m.: didieji pasiekimai” [“The First Republic of Lithuania (1918–1940): The greatest achievements”] Garden of Historic Presidential House, Vilniaus g. 33
The exhibition dedicated to the Centenary of the Restoration of the State represents the biggest examples of success in the fields of culture, education, sports, architecture etc.
The exhibition is comprised of several structural elements and levels. One of them is a three-dimensional sculpture, paintings as objects. These are conscious and subconscious images born in the artist’s dreams, which, in turn, arose in her childhood days and nights spent in Kaunas. Another meaningful component of the exhibition is a “real” object (objets trouvés). These are the relics of the same childhood home, memory rooms, related to dreams and Kaunas.
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
2018
JUNE
4 7
Calendar 05 25 – 06 22
Dainius Ščiuka. “Natural Women” “Žalgirio” arena, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 50
L
E
N
D
A
R
The young artist is presenting his newest works in the exhibition. These are abstract glowing compositions combining colored light. With these works, artist aims to create a strong visual impact, which would be felt by the viewer and lead to various sensations, for example, the kind the light causes in the nature - sunset or bright summer day. Do visit the exhibitions of Raimundas Mikšys and Milda Gailiūtė in other spaces of Meno parkas!
C
A
05 30 – 06 13
The talented fashion photographer who also happens to be the member of our magazine’s friendlist invited the best known Lithuanian women to be… themselves. No posing, no makeup, no stylists. Black and white, sensitive and very contemporary. Rūta Meilutytė, the kaunastic Olympic champion, agreed to be portrayed, too!
Kaunas Comics Residency: Liisa Kruusmägi Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
05 30 – 06 30
Karolis Vaivada. “Šviesūs prisiminimai” [“Bright Memories”]
Gallery “Meno parkas”, Rotušės a. 27
4 8
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
Liisa Kruusmägi, the Estonian artist, working in the mediums of painting, illustration and comics, was the
June resident of Kaunas Comics Residency in May. She also did our June cover! Liisa’s main creative inspiration is travelling. While travelling throughout the world, the artist has participated in a variety of exhibitions and collaborations that move beyond the framework of illustration.
Music 06 01 – 06 03
International folklore festival “Atataria lamzdžiai” Various locations
06 01 – 06 28
Modus Vivendi. “Medžiai” [“Trees”]
Gallery “Ars et Mundus”, A. Mapu g. 20
The traditional folk festival is held annually in May since 1984. Its program stretches from traditional song and dance performances to photography exhibitions, arts and crafts workshops and music lessons. Sunday, 06 03, 3 pm
Concert by folk band “Gadula” Kaunas Culture Centre “Tautos namai”, Vytauto pr. 79 The creative project focuses on the temporary nature of a human being and his or hers connection to the nature. Age is just a number reminding us of cycles. The inner beauty does not fade. How does one capture that? It’s a series of unexpected portraits that invite you to dig deeper.
The folk band that unites people from different regions in Lithuania is celebrating its 30th birthday. The activities of “Gadula” include singing, dancing, playing, celebrating and travelling in Lithuania and beyond.
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
2018
JUNE
4 9
Calendar Sunday, 06 03, 7 pm
Pažaislis music festival: Opening concert
C
A
L
E
N
D
A
R
Pažaislis monastery, T. Masiulio g. 31
The programme of the opening night of the 23rd festival is dedicated to commemorate Maestro Virgilijus Noreika. Music by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Giuseppe Verdi, Gaetano Donizetti, Ambroise Thomas, Gioachino Rossini, Giacomo Puccini, Vytautas Klova and Algimantas Raudonikis will be performed by the Lithuania State Symphony Orchestra and three wonderful soloists: Edgaras Montvidas the former student of Virgilijus Noreika, and two winners of the first Virgilijus Noreika Singers Competition Tetiana Zhuravel and Modestas Sedlevičius. Conducted by Gintaras Rinkevičius.
Joanna Ławrynowicz is one of the greatest Polish pianists today. She graduated with distinction from The Fryderyk Chopin Academy of Music in Warsaw. The artist is renowned for running abounding phonographic activity. She has already recorded more than 20 albums for Acte Prealable, including the complete solo and chamber works of Fryderyk Chopin (which has never been achieved by any Polish artist before). Friday, 06 08, 9 pm
Live: “Saber Tiger” and “The Nomad” Club “Lemmy”, Girstupio g. 1
Friday, 06 08, 6 pm
Pažaislis music festival: “A date with Fryderyk Chopin” Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5
5 0
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
The heavy metal veterans “Saber Tiger” have finally set off to conquer Europe. In Kaunas, they’ll be accompanied by thrash metal band from Saint Petersburg.
June Tuesday, 06 12, 6 pm
Pažaislis music festival: “Carmina Burana” Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5
The singing actor Andrius Kaniava will be accompanied by guitarist Aleksandras Ten and accordion virtuoso Nerijus Bakula. Expect Kaniava’s best pieces carefully selected for an audience he thinks is special. Friday, 06 15, 7 pm
Acoustic concert by “Baltos varnos” “Senas kluonas”, Papiškiai village., Kaunas district The listeners will have an opportunity to hear the impressive cantata Carmina Burana by Carl Orff where the expressive arias performed by the singers Raminta Vaicekauskaitė, Mindaugas Zimkus and Andrius Apšega will incorporate into the voices of Kaunas State Choir and pianos performed by Mykolas and Motiejus Bazarai, and the numerous group of percussionists. Wednesday, 06 13, 7 pm
“Pažaislis linden alley nights”: Andrius Kaniava and his band
Hospitality complex “Monte Pacis”, T. Masiulio g. 31
A cozy evening in an old country house will be filled with music by sisters Milda and Teresė Andrijauskaitės. Their unique vocals are great for folk music and ethnic songs, they’re great improvisers, too. Saturday, 06 16, 2 pm
“Lizdas” picnic
M. Žilinskas Gallery of Art, Nepriklausomybės a. 12 The electronic dance music clubs have closed for the summer, but that doesn’t mean the party is over. In this particular picnic, a concrete patio will do instead of a lawn. Music by a Norwegian DJ Skatebård and his Lithuanian comrades will compensate for that.
2018
JUNE
5 1
Calendar Sunday, 06 17, 7 pm
Pažaislis music festival: “Johann Strauss on water”
Music by Johann Strauss will be performed by the Kaunas City Symphony Orchestra conducted by Vilmantas Kaliūnas with the soloists Raminta Vaicekauskaitė and Tomas Pavilionis on the shore of Kaunas Reservoir. It does sound different, trust us!
“Pažaislis linden alley nights”: “Antikvariniai Kašpirovskio Dantys”
Hospitality complex “Monte Pacis”, T. Masiulio g. 31
Armed with trumpets, violins, drums and accordions, the artists are bringing a crazy Balkan vibe and a lot of enthusiasm.
C
A
L
E
N
D
A
R
Kaunas Yacht Club, R. Kalantos g. 124
Wednesday, 06 27, 7 pm
Thursday, 06 21, 8 pm
Live: “Kūjeliai”
“Adform” music courtyard, Rotušės a. 20
Inspired and led by the spirit of folk, the sweet boys of “Kūjeliai” will melt your heart even if you don’t understand Lithuanian.
5 2
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
Friday, 06 29, 10 pm
Pažaislis music festival: “Lithuania ‑ the State” Kaunas Castle, Pilies g. 15
The central axis of the Pažaislis music festival is traditionally the drama staging near the Kaunas Castle. This
June year, the festival will introduce yet unseen masterpiece ‑ the musical-documental drama “Lithuania ‑ the State” that has been created according to the tragedy “Mindaugas’ Power” written by Latvian writer Mārtiņš Zīverts.
Sports Sunday, 06 03, 09 am
Formula Junior race Nemunas ring, Kačerginė, Kaunas district
Saturday, 06 30, 7 pm
Centenary song celebration “In the name of…”: Opening night Valley of Songs
Back in 1960, when the Nemunas ring in Kačerginė held its first-ever motor race, Formula Junior was already into its 3rd season. It’s time for the two to meet face to face.
Sunday, 06 10, 8 am
Kaunas marathon Town Hall Square
It has become a tradition that the first event of the Song celebration is held in Kaunas as a sign of honour to the city, which in 1924 hosted the first Song Day. The art ensembles from Lithuania and other states will gather to demonstrate that the fire of the celebrations is unfading, just the opposite – it burns in our hearts.
The runners’ event invites people from Lithuania and all over the world to enjoy one of the flattest – and very picturesque! – marathon tracks in Europe for the 6th year in a row.
2018
JUNE
5 3
Calendar Thursday, 06 14
FC Kauno Žalgiris – FC Trakai
S. Darius and S. Girėnas stadium Perkūno al. 5
Wednesday, 06 06, 18:30
Evening with Andrius Kleiva Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
The oldest stadium in the country and a game of the A league. That’s already two reasons to skip work early on Thursday. Tuesday, 06 19, 7 pm Field by Baltijos g. 2 Hosted by Fluxus Labs, the community programme of Kaunas 2022, the open-air yoga sessions are held every Tuesday. Bring your own mat!
Other events
C
A
L
E
N
D
A
R
Open-air yoga
Tuesday, 06 05, 7 pm
Concrete workshop
Gallery “Nyčės ūsai”, Pilies g. 1
Andrius once was the youngest blogger in Lithuania. He’s currently attending university in Paris and spent a year in Japan before relocating to France. Japan and the Japanese way of life is the topic of his book which will be presented in the meeting. In Lithuanian. Thursday, 06 14, 6 pm
The creator of concrete jewelry CELSIUS 273 (read more in the “Merkurijus” rubric) Gerda Liudvinavičiūtė invites you to master the craft yourself.
5 4
K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
Book presentation: “Dailės istorikas ir kritikas Mikalojus Vorobjovas” [Art historian an critic mikalojus Vorobjovas”] Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
June Saturday, 06 23, 9 pm
“Parakas”: Opening night
Corner of L. Ivinskio and Prancūzų streets
We interviewed Giedrė Jankevičiūtė, one of the authors of the book, in our May edition. The art historian will be joined by her colleagues in the official book presentation which will also be an attempt to bring Vorobjovas back to Kaunas. In Lithuanian.
Thursday, 06 21, 11:30 – 10 pm
The concrete gunpowder warehouse in Šančiai is part of the Kaunas fortress warehouse complex, built in the 19th century. It has been cleaned out and brought back to life by the local community. The opening night will be filled with music by Kaunas Zoo, light and sound by Resonant Digit and Liucija Dervinytė and ice sculptures by Jomantas Padgurskas. The creative space is supported by Šančių kioskas, Fluxus Labs and Kaunas 2022.
“Open Kitchen Kaunas” Nemunas island
06 25 – 06 29
International Summer School “Promoting the Progressive: Modernism and its Value as a Historic Urban Landscape” Various locations
Every Thursday is street food day in Kaunas! The street food market offers approximately 15 to 20 choices every week, so get out there and choose your favourite food truck and world cuisine before the Summer is over.
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
Presented by the Kaunas 2022 program “Modernism for the Future”, the event is part of a wider series dedicated to the European Year of Cultural Heritage, 2018. The Summer School will focus on the urban fabric of Kaunas. After getting familiar with the historical parts of the city Žaliakalnis and Naujamiestis, participants of the Summer School will be invited to prepare experimental architectural scenarios for the future development of this territory or selected sites within these areas.
2018
JUNE
5 5
pilnas.kaunas.lt
“The café owners are of course happy about the growing visitor numbers, which means the premises can be expanded and amortised; the residents and visitors are not that happy, though. People start raising questions whether a real café exists in Kaunas.” P. Žineiva, page 6 of “Lietuvos aidas” newspaper, February 11, 1939
KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE Monthly newspaper about personalities and events in Kaunas (free of charge)
Laisvės alėja 59, third floor
Editorial office:
Authors: Andrejus Bykovas, Artūras Bulota, Bernadeta Buzaitė, Austėja Banytė, Eglė Šertvyčūtė, Gunars Bakšejevs, Julija Račiūnaitė, Kotryna Lingienė, Kęstutis Lingys, Liisa Kruusmägi, Lukas Mykolaitis, Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis, Tautė Bernotaitė, Teodoras Biliūnas
Patrons:
KAUNO MIESTO SAVIVALDYBĖ
RUN 100010COPIES TIRAŽAS 000 EGZ.
ISSN 2424-4481 2424-4465
Leidžia: Publisher
2018 2017No. Nr. 62 (34) (18)