KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE JANUARY 2019

KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE

Around the world

Illustration by Domantas JakuÄ?ionis

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Robert Videtzky left Lithuania more than 80 years ago, but our winters still shine brightly in his memories. They were illustrated by Kotryna Ražinskaitė in a recent documentary called “Litvaks in South Africa: The Snowball Rolled South”.

More about it on page 16.

Although linguists would argue, we are convinced that returning to somewhere you have never been before is entirely possible. However, we would have to travel to the past time, where, upon our arrival, we might be quite surprised. Surprised because everything appears to be slightly different from what your grandparents have told you. The streets, the people, the language all of it has changed. And yet, “return” is precisely the word that many Lithuanian Brazilians, Uruguayans, Canadians, Argentinians, Americans, Australians and other countries‘ Lithuanians use when they talk about their first visits to the ancestral land, mostly during the Lithuanian Song Festival. They are the ones whose parents attended Lithuanian schools founded by their grandfathers. They also attended them, and know the same songs. We don‘t, but they do! There is even a mobile app Dainorėlis - created by Lithuanian Americans - which contains over 180 songs.

Coming home It is probably natural that not all the descendants of Lithuanian or other nationality identify themselves with our country. For example, last year, when preparing an issue on French language and culture, we tried to interview the son of one renowned Kaunas-born philosopher. His “no” was so strong that only the beautiful French language in which he uttered it saved the office from tears. But you cannot really be mad. You can‘t be angry when you consider the fact that the vast majority of people didn‘t leave Lithuania voluntarily. They were running from war, Holocaust, poverty, censorship, and deportations. Thus, the passionate pride in the achievements of world-famous Lithuanian or Litvak artists, musicians, and actors;

their appropriation, sometimes seems inappropriate. But at the same time, one can dream about what Lithuania would be like today if so many of its talented sons and daughters hadn‘t been forced to leave.

The Parliament of the Republic of Lithuania announced 2019 not only as the year of Temporary capital commemoration but also the year of World Lithuanians. Therefore, in the first issue this year, we explore what images of Kaunas and Lithuania can be found elsewhere - everywhere - in the world.

Just like some time ago, the “high priest” of Kaunas 2022 myth department Rytis Zemkauskas wrote in our magazine - Kaunas is everywhere. Be it Adelaide, São Paulo or Johannesburg.

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In this issue, we talked with Lithuanian Brazilian Iêva Martinaitis whose 11000 km photo series‘ excerpt was exhibited in Kaunas Photo festival in fall. In the Valdas Adamkus Presidential LibraryMuseum you were able to see only some of the moments from São Paulo Lithuanian community‘s life captured by Iêva. We hope that the whole series will be published as an album and will come to Lithuania again. Here are some more of Iêva‘s shots and you can read more about the meaning of thousands of kilometres on other pages.

Kaunas or São Paulo?

Gunars Bakšejevs Photos by Iêva Martinaitis

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A copy of Laisvė, the famous Kaunas statue by Jonas Zikaras, was erected in São Paulo’s Lithuanian neighbourhood called Vila Zelina in 1985. At that time, the original statue, torn down by the Soviets, was waiting for a resurrection. The statue in Brazil, in fact, right in the middle of The Square of Lithuanian Republic, is today hidden by lush trees.

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One of the buildings of the Lithuanian neighbourhood in São Paulo is the Church São José Da Vila Zelina, built in 1936. It’s, in fact, the heart and soul of the community.

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How can one tell the picture wasn’t made in Lithuania? Well, the massive fan suggests it’s a much warmer place.

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This is it, The Square of Lithuanian Republic. The latter word reveals the hopes and dreams of the residents of Vila Zelina, right? There are more Lithuanian squares around the world, including Kyiv and New York, but this one’s probably the most special...

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Ievamartinaitis.com

The Lithuanian team has never won the local Copa Gringo tournament.

We still believe some of the players would do good for our national team!

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The afternoon is turning into evening, and we are trying to locate Lithuanian Brazilian Ieva Martinaitis in cafe Kultūra located at the Kaunas Picture Gallery. Although to be more precise, it is Iêva – that is how her name is spelled in the official documents so that those who speak Portuguese would have an easier time pronouncing it. She doesn’t know any Ievas or Iêvas in Brazil, so we also assume that there are no more in the world.

Like many photographers, Iêva doesn’t share photographs of herself much, so we take time in the twilight to think which one of the people at the bar is our Brazilian photographer, or is she more Lithuanian? Interestingly enough, later, when we met for the second time, Iêva said that in Belarus people assumed she was local and tried to talk to her in Russian. She managed to visit the neighbouring country when she came to present her exhibition on Lithuanian Brazilian community in Kaunas Photo festival. Iêva managed to participate in the art residency in Kražiai and to travel around the birthplace of her grandparents and her mother.

The only Iêva in the world Kotryna Lingienė and Kęstutis Lingys Photos by Iêva Martinaitis

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Iêva’s grandmother came from Kaunas to Brazil in 1917, when she was 3-years-old, so she didn’t remember much about Lithuania. Her grandfather reached it after the war when he had to choose between east and west.

The fear of Siberia didn’t disappear even thousands of kilometres to the west. Iêva says that grandfather did not talk a lot about his life in Lithuania in fear of hurting the relatives remaining there. Perhaps that is the reason why at first she couldn’t find her grandfather’s village – it was either gone, or there was a mistake in the documents.

But in the end she did, thanks to a distant relative!

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Considering the scale of Brazil, Europe is not that big because the Amazon jungle alone occupies an area as big as our continent. Brazil is one of the most colourful (and largest) countries in the world and Lithuanians in it are only one of many nations. For example, the second largest (after Japan) Japanese community lives in Brazil. And we hear that pizza in São Paulo is as good as in Naples. Despite its size, from September, when we first greeted Iêva, until now, we keep encountering signs suggesting that 11 thousand kilometres between Kaunas and São Paulo – the city with Vila Zelina neighbourhood founded by Lithuanian immigrants – are almost equal to zero.

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In São Paulo her grandfather worked at the Ford factory and grandmother at a tobacco factory. Iêva’s mother married a Brazilian man, so our interviewee has a second surname – Ferreira – and two brothers one of whose names is slightly more Brazilian than his siblings – Rafael. „Due to my name, I am a true ambassador for Lithuania because upon hearing it many people start asking about its origins.“ It was her grandfather who came up with the name. Perhaps Iêva was a name of one of her

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great-grandmothers. And the second Iêva’s brother is named... Liūtas (Lion)!

In Brazil, Iêva represents Lithuania or its culture not only with her name but also her photographs. The photographs from the same series that were presented at Valdas Adamkus Library-Museum were exhibited for three months at the São Paulo metro stations. Considering the number of people that travelled through there in that period, it was a public relations campaign of a fair size, and it was supported by Lithuanian Consulate in São Paulo.

And how did the 15 photographs from the series reach Kaunas? “I responded to the open call of Kaunas Photo. 15 shots were a required amount for submission. I wasn’t among the winners, but the organisers of the festival contacted me and offered to organise an exhibition in cooperation with VMU Lithuanian Emigration Institute.” We found that the main feature of these photographs was emotions which you’d rarely see in celebrations of community gatherings in Lithuania. They were more warm-blooded. Probably because for us, locals, it’s everyday life, but for those who have never visited the country it’s some kind of heritage, a fairytale, a legend told by their grandparents.

Iêva is of the most geographically remote Kaunas Žalgiris fans. In a couple of months that she spent in Lithuania, Iêva went to two basketball games in the Arena. “After all, my grandmother is from Kaunas”, she explains her choice or rather fate with a smile. But also adds that in Vila Zelina, just like elsewhere in Brazil, everyone cares more about football. There is even a Lithuanian national team that participates in the local communities’ world cup called Copa Gringo. But it has never

During her ReziPro Artist Residency (organised by Kaunas Photo), Iêva spent a significant amount of time in a peaceful Kražiai village in Samogitia. She’ll be back in Lithuania soon to present the results of the residency.

won. For a more exotic experience, we took Iêva to ice hockey match at the Kaunas Ice Arena. It was cold, but she made a few successful black and white photographs with a film camera.

We met Iêva a couple of months later for the second time, 11 thousand kilometres away, in São Paulo. We decided to have dinner the São Paulo way, so Iêva invited us to a 24/7 diner. This place has no rest not only because many night owls (believe us, just babies and seniors sleep in São Paulo) crave nothing more than a mountain of meat dripping with fat. It turns out that a newspaper office was operating just above the diner and journalists, after submitting a new issue to the printing house, would regain their strength in the diner late at night.

Would you be able to learn about it just passing by? Having Lithuanians around the world is good.

Iêva also took us to an art deco skyscraper belonging to Santander bank.

From its observation deck, you can see the largest metropolis in the Southern Hemisphere at almost 360 degrees angle. We joked that it would fit perfectly in Kaunas and went to look for the traces of our city to the aforementioned Vila Zelina. Today the quarter seems rather small and not as ‘Lithuanian’ as fifty or more years ago: globalisation. The copy of the statue of liberty looks tiny in the heart of Lithuanian square in front of the church that is very Lithuanian in spirit, but let’s agree, not concerning architecture. The parish used to have a Lithuanian priest before, and although he’s gone now, the hymns during the Mass are often sung in Lithuanian. “Not all the singers know Lithuanian, but they still sing,” Iêva laughs. The Church is the axis of community life even

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nowadays when less and less Brazilian people follow Catholicism. Celebrations start with Mass. And one of the most important ones is February the 16th.

During it, the Lithuanians of São Paulo have the opportunity to discuss the past year.

It’s an early afternoon and the Lithuanian Bar do Vito – established right in front of the church based on old traditions of European cities – is not yet opened. We are going to see a Lithuanian named Nadia, who prepares kugelis, aspic, and other Lithuanian dishes for anyone willing to try them.

There is also a shop offering a similar menu. Although we are more accustomed to using the term ‘frozen in time’ when we talk about our and neighbouring countries’ villages, here in Vila Zelina, you can really feel precisely what the emigrants had left in Lithuania when they departed. Smells, words, poems. During holidays people tie certain ribbons on their necks that in Lithuania of 2019 the only person still wearing them is probably Vytautas Landsbergis. But generations are changing, and the numbers of kugelis eaters are dropping. Of course, in early December, anyone who wishes can come and learn how to bake kūčiukai, but not everyone finds the time.

And talking about ribbons and costumes – Iêva’s national costume is a ‘mix-and-match’ and rather old, so she is not exactly sure if it was made in Lithuania or Brazil. She says that the youth of diaspora now get their costumes when they visit Lithuanian Song Festivals. And they are exceptional events in the life of every Lithuanian Brazilian, Australian, American, Canadian, Uruguayan, and Argentinian. Of course, if he or she attends a Lithuanian school or a dance group.

Iêva was already on the stage by the time she was 2-years-old as a member

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When I ask my mother, why must we do that, she answers that she doesn’t know.

of Nemunas ensemble, and later she went to Rambynas with which she came to Lithuania for the first time.

She said they had to save a lot and organise community dinners to be able to embark on such a long journey. She remembers that it was fun to meet so many Lithuanians from all over the world and also be discovered by her relative from Latvia. Upon learning that a girl from Brazil is coming to Vilnius she – Iêva’s mom’s cousin – came there to meet her and get acquainted.

To do that they had to use the help of translator friends, but despite the

language barrier, the relatives are still in touch.

We wondered what impression did Iêva have about Lithuania from her elders’ stories, and whether it really differed from what she saw upon her arrival.

“The image I had was rustic. I only saw such Lithuania when I went to Kražiai.

Hard-working people who are preparing every summer to survive winter.

A lot of sadness. After all, it wasn’t easy for those who decided to leave.”And today’s Lithuania, and especially the cities – we all agree – are far from Smetona period sentiments.

The Brazilian side of our interviewee’s family comes from the second largest state in the country Minas Gerais. Once it was the epicentre of gold fever, and now it’s famous for its excellent cuisine.

We ask if the food is tastier than potato pudding, but Iêva only laughs and remains diplomatically silent. However, she tries to continue the Lithuanian family traditions – after all her mother’s parents always lived close by – and pass them to her nephews (including Lithuanian language lessons, even though she doesn’t speak Lithuanian herself). Although Iêva is convinced that her mother’s line is stronger, and therefore, they were more exposed to Lithuanian culture than the Brazilian one, both of her brothers limit their interest in Lithuania to food. The photographer decorates Easter eggs with wax and tries to adorn her Christmas tree with straw ornaments and eat only fish on Christmas Eve. “When I ask my mother, why must we do that, she answers that she doesn’t know.”

By the way, her mother hasn’t visited Lithuania yet. We would be glad to meet her when she finally does.

Now, it seems like a good idea to quote Lithuanian Brazilian Erick Reis Godliauskas Zen who has written 1

several books about Lithuanian diasporas in South America. Speaking to Laurynas Šedvydis on KaunoŽinios. lt, he mentioned that “In Argentina and Uruguay Lithuanians organised themselves based on different worldviews – both on the left and right political spectrum. More precisely, it wasn’t a natural, deeply rooted sense of nationality or nationalist/Catholic perspectives that created their identities in emigration. In America, Lithuanians were constantly arguing among themselves about different political planes. Each organisation had a newspaper, a printing house, a library where Lithuanian, folk music and dances were taught, etc. And every organisation tried to involve Lithuanians through every aspect of their lives, and to maintain connections turned this community into a very active and lively one.” Of course, today, the amount of organisations has diminished, and globalisation has unified people’s beliefs, but there are still things to argue about. Perhaps the secret of survival lies in a constant debate?

Iêva also recommended visiting a carnival rehearsal in one of the thousands of São Paulo music clubs. Carnival – what we refer to as Pancake Day – is a massive event in Brazil and it is not limited to the shows by big samba schools that we often see on the internet or TV. Blocos are small orchestras of neighbourhoods that consist of amateurs and professionals who rehearse all year round. Some dance, some sing and others play. We stumbled upon the gathering of a few dozen brass players, and that was hard to compare with any Lithuanian music experience. Maybe we could hold a carnival in the Brazilka neighbourhood in Žaliakalnis? After all, Iêva has also participated in one Bloco, where she even wore a national costume.

Lithuanian, of course.

, https://kaunozinios.lt/kultura/apie-konflikta-identitetuose_83299.html

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A film of serene longing

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Director, journalist and a co-author of a documentary film The Snowball Rolled South Ieva Balsiūnaitė talks about the Litvak community connecting Lithuania and South Africa. The memories of film characters and this story of ‘serene longing’ contain loss, nostalgia, reconciliation, humour and a cafe in Cape Town inspired

by Rietavas town.

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Julija Račiūnaitė Photos by Donatas Stankevičius

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Let’s talk about the beginning.

How did the story of The Snowball Rolled South begin?

In fact, I have been carrying this story with me for a very long time.

Around ten years ago I have learned that almost all Jews living in South Africa (currently 80 percent) come from Lithuania. At that time, I didn’t think we were so closely connected with South Africa. I thought it would be interesting to look deeper into this story because we often hear numbers or statistics but very rarely actual people who hide behind those numbers. Over time, I started talking about this topic with my friends and colleagues from television. It appeared that very few people knew about Litvaks living in South Africa.

I told my colleague Lukas Keraitis about Litvaks from South Africa and we slowly started looking for links with South Africa and interviewing various people. It took us many e-mails and Skype conversations.

When searching for information, we contacted the Lithuanian Jewish Community, former Ambassador to Israel and South Africa. We tried to find Litvaks of various generations and different experiences who would agree to share their stories.

We were joined by journalist Viktorija Mickutė who is currently working for Al Jazeera in Qatar. Later on, we invited two more people – Jonas Jakūnas and Sofia Korf who filmed and edited the film and who accompanied me to South Africa to meet the heroes of the film. Interestingly enough, except for rare meetings, filmmakers lived in different countries throughout the project and coordinated all the details remotely.

None of our film crew is of Jewish origin or has a personal connection with this topic, so everything start-

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ed with great curiosity and a blank sheet of paper. When we started, we hadn’t decided what shape the project would take. We agreed on a documentary film only after we started all the work and realized that the topic is too deep and complex for a reportage only. We realized that we wanted to provide a platform for people to share their stories. We also rejected the possibility of the article series. We wanted to hear people’s voices, see their eyes, reactions, and establish the closest possible connection. We were prepared and had collected a lot of material when we travelled to see the people, however, we had not planned the final product. At first, we wanted to meet the respondents and allow the stories to shape the result.

Which stories brought the project on track and drew its guidelines?

There are 11 people sharing stories in the film. 10 of them are telling their personal stories and Gavin Morris, director of the South African Jewish Museum in Cape Town, comments on the historical context. I was deeply affected by 2 out of these 11 stories. And after hearing them, a certain historical puzzle became apparent. One of the stories was told by Robert Videtzky who was born in Molėtai, Lithuania in 1923 and who left the country at 13 and spent the rest of his life in South Africa. We spent many hours talking to him via Skype. He told us about his memories from Lithuania and about his family, children and grandchildren’s life in South Africa.

By the way, Robert returned to visit Lithuania after nearly 80 years. Telling about his impressions during the trip he remembered his childhood and the portrait of Vytautas the Great that hung at his school.

When he returned to Lithuania after so many years, there was a

Interestingly, most South African Litvaks see Lithuania the way it is in their grandparents’ photographs: old wooden houses, market squares, rural lives, and many forests.

new portrait on the wall – the one of Lithuanian president Dalia Grybauskaitė. This detail drew my attention to a specific flow of time connecting two periods of independent Lithuania. Robert even remembers the Lithuanian language, songs, although interviewees spoke in Yiddish during the film. By the way, as a child Robert found Laisvės alėja to

be one of the most beautiful places in Kaunas – especially the building of the central post office. His uncle lived in Kaunas and Robert would often visit him. Upon arriving, they would always go for a walk in Laisvės alėja and window shop. Robert can’t forget the really beautiful and expensive skis that he could not stop staring at as a child. There was nothing like that in Molėtai at the time, so he saw Kaunas as a breathtaking metropolis.

Of course, Robert’s family was affected by the Holocaust, during which he lost 16 close family members, not to mention more distant relatives.

Naturally, like most Litvaks, he has ambivalent memories of Lithuania.

Robert’s story reflected this ambivalence and the strange flow of time best, that is why he became so important for me.

Another memorable acquaintance was a famous cartoonist Jonathan Shapiro-Zapiro coming from Plungė, who, in his own words, started his career as an activist with a pencil in his hand. Zapiro has even been arrested for his activities and continues to comment on political and social topics until today. When we went to his studio, we saw many photos with him and Nelson Mandela. Like Mandela, Zapiro is considered to be a symbol of freedom in South Africa. And like Robert, he has visited Lithuania.

We also briefly interviewed a famous artist William Kentridge, whose family comes from Kaunas.

But he was one of those who didn’t want to have any connection to Lithuania and didn’t feel nostalgic

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Danella Eliasov, Johannesburg. Film still.

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about the country. By the way, it is worth mentioning that the grandfather of the artist, like most Litvaks, went to South Africa before the Holocaust.

Most of them left Lithuania in 1880– 1910. During this period, the growth of the Jewish community spanned from 4000 to 40 000 people, 90 percent of which were Litvak. Of course, all who have emigrated, have inevitably left many of their relatives here, in Lithuania. Most contacts were discontinued or severed after the Holocaust.

We also interviewed two younger generation stand-up comedians – one of the most famous South African comedians Nik Rabinowitz and the comedian Daniel Friedman. They told the stories of their grandparents and great-grandparents that they grew up with through the medium of comedy. We went to Nik Rabinowitz’ show which was about Lithuania. It started with a question, “We are refugees from Lithuania. Do you know where Lithuania is?” of course no one knew.

The audience had no connection to Lithuania or Litvak community, but it was fully immersed in Nik’s story.

This comedian uses his Jewish Litvak roots as part of his identity that he utilizes in his work. His wife is also a Litvak and a few years ago their family applied for Lithuanian citizenship.

Another interviewee of ours is a psychiatrist and mixed martial arts fighter Danella Eliasov – the first woman in South Africa to become a recognized mixed martial arts fighter. Her family comes from Kupiškis, which Danella visited three years ago. Interestingly, she always wanted to come here, but her grandparents tried talking her out of it. As I mentioned, there are many people who want to leave history behind.

What kind of Lithuania emerges through the memories of this community?

I think we can divide them into two parts. The first part is extremely warm: full of wonderful nature, clear lakes, swimming, as well as big families, communities, their holidays and customs. Robert told us how music was always playing in Ukmergė and Kaunas’ parks, people would dance in the long summer nights and in winter, in Ukmergė, firefighters would make an ice arena and everyone would skate while the orchestra was playing. Many of the people mentioned that families laughed a lot.

According to Robert, it is difficult for people to understand how all those warm stories have transformed into the second part of the memories – the Holocaust, constant deprivation, poor life, anti-Semitism, and pogroms.

Interestingly, most South African Litvaks see Lithuania the way it is in their grandparents’ photographs: old wooden houses, market squares, rural lives, and many forests. Nik said that when he remembers Lithuania, he sees a sort of black and white, two-dimensional image. Many who visit the country are surprised. Before travelling to Lithuania, one of our respondents filled his backpack with crackers because he did not know if he would have anything to eat in Lithuania, whether he would be able to find kosher food. Having landed in Vilnius, he suddenly realized that it is not a wild place and you can find anything you would want in a modern, Western country. So most have certain stereotypes about Lithuania that usually dissolve when people visit the country. On the other hand, there is a different side to

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Nik Rabinowitz, Cape Town. Film still.

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meeting the ancestral land for the first time. Danella mentioned that it was very difficult for her to visit the places of massacres. It is one thing to hear about them in the stories but it can be extremely difficult to face the actual place in reality.

About the achievements and the future of the film.

The premiere of the film took place at the International Lübeck Film Festival in Germany on 2 November.

People were active and had many questions for us. Many asked whether Lithuanians knew about the Litvaks from South Africa. After all, the Litvak community seems to be well aware of Lithuania. For example, there is a Jewish museum in Cape Town where virtually all of the content is about Lithuania, and next to it there is a cafe called Riteve, which is the Yiddish name of Rietavas.. Not all Litvaks are actively interested in the past, but almost everyone knows about their Lithuanian origins. So, it was interesting for the audience to learn what Lithuanians know about that.

The film was also shown in Lithuania on LRT TV. It will be screened in Vilnius, Molėtai and Kaunas (January 18!) and will soon be available on the internet. By the way, we received a lot of feedback after the broadcast – we were very concerned about the issues and observations of the Lithuanian audience and whether they felt a connection to the story. The most memorable comment was a thank-you for ‘a film of serene longing.’ It is a perfect description because the film truly fits a diverse range of emotions.

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A couple of years ago, a Memorial March was held in Molėtai to honour the victims of the Holocaust and it was attended by some Litvaks from South Africa. For many, this march was a sign of reconciliation.

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My story this time, in fact, consists of two stories that - if you look once again at the same old truths - is ultimately a single story. A grandfather and a grandson whose lives ran parallel to each other for several years and they were not able to get to know each other better but are connected by their love for Lithuania and Kaunas.

Antanas Novickis - Lieutenant colonel of the Lithuanian Armed Forces, who later decided to serve Lithuania by making its cities more beautiful and better. He was very successful and even the fatal 1944, when he had to leave the country, didn‘t completely destroy his ambitions. His grandson Darius is a colonel of the US Marine Corps. He has seen much of the world until Lithuania called him to return. He retired one and a half years ago and decided to move to Vilnius. I have looked at the history of probably the first Lithuanian urbanist and then had a conversation with a man inspired by his grandfather‘s memory.

About Novickiai Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis

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Darius Novickis posing at the Palace of the Common Labourers (Currently Kaunas Cultural Centre), designed by his grandfather.

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Antanas Novickis: a man who improved Lithuania “I desired to create a beautiful and orderly Lithuania!” Antanas Novickis wrote long after the war, living in New York. It was true: his whole life was dedicated to the welfare of his country. Like many prominent people of the interwar period, he attended Mintauja gymnasium. When studying his beloved engineering at the Riga Polytechnic Institute, Antanas Novickis was directly confronted with war. Mobilisation forced him to become a military engineer, and he completed his studies in Kiev. Later, when the country‘s army was being built, he successfully used this experience. He was one of the first volunteers and soon, in 1919, was appointed an adjutant at Kaunas commandant‘s headquarters. In 1923–1925 he improved his knowledge at the Versailles military engineering school. Later, he became the adjutant of President Kazys Grinius, taught durable fortification in the Advanced courses on military technology and was awarded the Order of the Cross of Vytis.

The big turn or perhaps a logical continuation of his work for the country took place in 1930-1931. After retiring from the army, the engineer completed a civil engineering course because he was unable to work with a military engineer‘s diploma due to the regulations of the time. He got a position in one of the most favourable sectors for country‘s physical handling. Antanas Novickis became a chief inspector and head of construction and roads. Lithuanian cities at the time were riddled with problems. In reality, systematic urban planning did not exist. The issue behind it was not only the lack of human resources but also the still valid Tsarist construction law. Since it considered private property to be

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the highest priority, it made the development of towns and cities extremely difficult. The restructuring was impossible because there was a lack of funds to buy out the land.

Urban planning was dominated by the arbitrariness of landowners, and that was particularly evident around Kaunas. Chaotic suburbs in strangely formed plots were emerging around the city. They were full of unaesthetic looking buildings and often lacking streets that were supposed to connect them. Lithuania needed a new building law. It was created by a working group led

by A. Novickis in the 1930s. Because of the lack of people, the process protracted and it was later decided to release it in parts. That is how in 1938, the laws of rural and urban landscaping were born, the latter of which enabled large-scale transformation. Lithuanian cities finally got the chance to become aesthetic and comfortable places to live in. During that time, A. Novickis wrote on this topic in a specialised press more than once. He was one of the first in the country to have used the term ‚urbanism.‘ In his work, the chief inspector relied on the modern urban principles that he often emphasised.

Every major commission for the country‘s most important projects couldn‘t go without A. Novickis help as a senior construction engineer and competent specialist. Some examples: a special commission was created in 1931 for the building of Open-air museum - country‘s ethnographic exhibition. The project was fulfilled several decades later in the form of The Open-Air Museum of Lithuania. In 1932 A. Novickis was appointed to one of three commissions for exploring the location of the planned Kaunas Hydroelectric Power Plant. Several significant aesthetic transformations of the

Antanas Novickis

country took place at the initiative of A. Novickis in the 1930s. The so-called “slum demolition” spread throughout the country in 1932 little towns were cleared from inferior buildings that were often in an abysmal state. The engineer travelled all over the country, followed the process and while communicating with the owners ensured the efficiency of the process. “Huts, shanties without roofs or with perforated roofs, cracked ceilings, sagging walls, sinking into the ground, damp and dark are being demolished,” chief

inspector explained the meaning of the process to a journalist from one of the newspapers. Another similar initiative was the establishment of new marketplaces throughout the country. The old markets that had occupied central squares of cities had become unattractive causing a lot of communication problems. As a result, they were being massively relocated across the country to more spacious, fitting locations. During

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the Novickis period, a lot of attention was paid to the country‘s roads.

Since almost 25,000 kilometres of national roads required constant maintenance, the government tried to ensure the efficiency of their handling through their maintenance system and the purchasing of road equipment.

At the end of the 1930s, the famous “Brick Lithuania” plan was developed to ensure the development of brick construction across the country. A comprehensive system was envisaged to promote the establishment of brickworks, the building of a cement factory and other important factors. From 442 settlements in Lithuania at the time, only half had their plans. Since normal development was impossible without them, the Construction inspection prepared a circular of a five-year work plan that encouraged municipalities to prepare the settlement plans until 1943. Emphasis was placed on the rapid decline of Lithuanian forests at that time. And yet the biggest event was the establishment of The National Construction Committee in 1939. It had to become an institution that mediated between the different institutions and had the final say on the systematic development of cities and the whole country. One of its main tasks was to “investigate the aesthetic, economic and legal situation of construction in the country and to draw conclusions on how to manage it effectively”. The committee had to deal with such sensitive issues as the regulation of suburban development, the organisation of resort management, the promotion of urban renewal, the problems of communication, and the assessment of public buildings‘ architectural style.

Among other things, the goal was to “organise and preserve harmonious landscapes.” Lithuanian cities had to become more beautiful and

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You go play baseball, and you get in touch with Lithuanian culture only at home.

convenient, but they were unable to fulfil the plan. After the June uprising in 1941, A. Novickis managed to serve as the minister of communications in J. Ambrazevčius‘ government, and he continued to be responsible for constructions in the country although at the time there weren‘t many opportunities to carry out any real projects. Even after moving to the refugee camps with his family, A. Novickis continued to work. In the camps at the end of the 1940s, still hoping for the liberation of the country, along with his colleagues they had finally drafter a long-awaited new construction law supplemented with the latest trends. Across the Atlantic Ocean, A. Novickis remained an active member of the New York Lithuanian Community and Lithuanian Architects and Engineers Union until his death.

It would be wrong not to mention the engineer‘s wife Birutė Novickienė, who deserves a separate article. She was one of the first women to graduate Lithuanian university and one of the first female lawyers.

Remembered by her contemporaries as a tireless fighter for women‘s and children‘s rights, she was one of the founders and members of the board of the Lithuanian Scout Society and belonged to Lithuanian Women‘s Protection Society and Lithuanian Women‘s Union. She made sure that poor women would get free legal advice, worked on the rights of minors and concerned herself with the organisation of social care. At the beginning of independence, she organised aid for the country‘s newborn army. Although she was strongly affected by a severe disease in 1941, Birutė Novickienė remained an active member of community both in the refugee camps and across the Atlantic.

Darius Novickis: back to the grandparents’ land We met with Darius next to the Garrison Church. It is symbolic that 87 years ago, a special commission, led by Antanas Novickis entered the church - which was in a deplorable condition at the time - to solve the question of its repair. Perhaps he had visited the place before that after all, it was the Kaunas military garrison’s church. The grandson of the engineer - a tall, good-tempered man of a soldierly stature - is holding a bag in his hand that contains shoes made in a well-known Kaunas factory. He explains, “I try to buy Lithuanian production. In Vilnius, we don’t have a good shop of this brand, so, I used the opportunity.”

Darius has been living in Lithuania for a year and a half. He retired in 2017 and became a Vilnius resident.

Perhaps many of the present-day Kaunas residents would find it strange that he didn’t return to his grandparents and parents’ city. And yet, it can be said that he accomplished what his grandfather was fighting for - during the interwar period, Kaunas residents aimed at regaining the historical capital and winning the right for everyone to live there. The future marine was born and raised in San Francisco - a city that might only be considered similar to Kaunas because of its hills and trolleybuses. There were barely any Lithuanians there, so no Lithuanian school and no one to talk to in the parents’ language. “Soon I will be 52, but I never went to any Lithuanian school. My mother would sometimes give me Lithuanian books to study, but it was far from Los Angeles, where Lithuanians have their school. I learned Lithuanian and used it mostly at home.” Today’s San

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Francisco already has a Lithuanian Saturday school which is attended by the children - who, by the way, were given Lithuanian names - of one of Darius’ sisters. Upon recalling his childhood in 1970s San Francisco, Darius admits that he was slightly ashamed to speak Lithuanian, “From all four of us children, I was the least enthusiastic about speaking Lithuanian. You play with other kids, and you feel ashamed. It wasn’t fashionable at the time. You go play baseball, and you get in touch with Lithuanian culture only at home.”

However, it was only a transitional phase - my interviewee, participated in Lithuanian dance festivals across the Atlantic twice. He was also an active member of the Lithuanian scouts. To maintain his connection to Lithuanian culture, parents would send him and his siblings to Los Angeles where the squad was located. “Our uniforms were just like the Boy Scouts of America, but with Lithuanian flags. It was supported by the American scout system because we operated under their regulations.

However, everything was focused on Lithuanian history, patriotism.

Every day in camps, we would raise both Lithuanian and American flags, and sign the Lithuanian Anthem. We would stage “steal the flag” type of partisan battles making improvised devices from napkins and flour. There was an attempt to connect everything to Lithuanian culture.” And although the Lithuanian community in San Francisco was tiny, there were enough people to commemorate every 16th of February, “One year the memorial was attended by Simas Kudirka who gave a lecture. At the time he was the hero of all of us.”

Darius’ Lithuanian is beautiful. He speaks carefully collecting words,

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trying to avoid loanwords, “Now I hear Lithuanian youth using many English words. We used to do that too but only because we didn’t know the Lithuanian equivalent. I want to write and speak beautifully and wish to continue improving my Lithuanian.” Just like many Lithuanians and their descendants who were scattered around the world because of the WW2, Darius admits receiving remarks on his archaisms that were conserved in his language since 1944, “When I came to Lithuania, some young people said that when talking to me they feel like talking to their grandfather. For example, I use the word guzikas,” he points to the button, smiling. “When I spoke to older people, I felt like I was talking to old acquaintances like they were my family. Now, I no longer notice that.”

I asked him to tell me more about his return. “In 2006 I was planning to visit the British marines because we promised to meet again when we served in Afghanistan. I thought to myself, why do I travel around the world and have never visited Lithuania? I am a Lithuanian, after all, I speak Lithuanian! I considered spending some time in England and then flying to my homeland.

Lithuanian Airlines were still operating back then.” At the time, the lieutenant’s heart was conquered by the most important symbol of the country, “I saw it in the perspective of Pilies Street, and my heart knew it was at home. I will always say that you cannot explain it, as you cannot explain, say, love. I said to myself it’s Gediminas Castle! I saw all that in scout books that depict Gediminas’ dream of the iron wolf. But those were drawings, and now I was seeing the real thing!”

The interviewee distinguishes the TV tower as another essential

Antanas Novickis in the 6th fort. The 1920s. From the family album of Novickiai.

symbol, with which he feels a special connection, “At the time, I was a young, 23-year-old Lieutenant in James Mattis’ battalion. We were sitting in the desert near the Kuwait border, and we were waiting for the Persian Gulf war to begin, although no one was sure that the conflict will happen. After all, at the last moment, Saddam Hussein could have said he was retreating from Kuwait. I had 24 armoured vehicles and 49 marines at my disposal. We would listen to the military radio, and slightly tardy Stars and stripes numbers would arrive. That is how the information reached me. I was extremely shocked by the illustra-

tion of people under the tanks, and until today, the tower holds a special place in my heart because of their sacrifice. I thought at the time - that is happening in Lithuania now, and meanwhile, I am in the desert. We only were allowed limited phone calls. I remember calling my parents and my mother said, “Darius, do you know what is happening in Lithuania?” But the war began on the 17th of January. Only after the liberation of Kuwait did we return to our normal base where so much of our mail had accumulated, and we were able to catch up on the news.”

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Darius visited Kaunas for the first time in 2007. Of course, we had to ask whether the Kaunas he saw was different from the one in his parents’ stories. “Kaunas was a high-level city, and that is how I imagined it.

My dad would show me photographs sometimes. That is how it remained, like in the pictures, much of those romantic times can be found in it.

Kaunas has many interwar period houses. Vilnius has the old town, but Kaunas has Žaliakalnis and Ąžuolynas. Sometimes I read on the internet how someone buys a house in Kaunas and starts renovating it. Many beautiful old houses were demolished in Žvėrynas (Vilnius), but in Kaunas, they are being renovated, no one is trying to whitewash the history. I don’t know how much truth is in it, but that’s the image I have, and that’s the impression Kaunas has left on me since the beginning. First of all, I notice the buildings with curved corners, the homogenous style of that era,” the interviewee smiles pointing to the illustration of the Central Post Office. “Maybe I notice that because my father followed in my grandfather’s footsteps and became an architect. He designed many hospitals, the town hall of Vallejo, one of the bulks of Santa Barbara University.”

“Another thing that I noticed in Kaunas is how down to earth people are. In Vilnius, in the shops, they say, “Good day” and here they just say “Hi.” Everything is simpler here, communication is easier, everyone seems homey.” The interviewee showed me a bunch of photos with his grandfather participating in military training in the 6th fort in the 1920s. “In 2011 I was promoted to Colonel. It is an exceptional day in officer’s life - I wanted something symbolic, considering that my grandfather was also a colonel!

I wanted the ceremony to take place

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in the 6th fort. Currently, it is being tidied, but back then, when I went to the roundabout, there was only a small sign saying, “6th fort.” I went looking for it. All I found was graffiti covered structures in the bushes.

I thought to myself, “Where is that fort?” Unfortunately, the ceremony had to be conducted in America,” the colonel remembers.

The state is just like the people we know - we see them every day without noticing the constant change.

Therefore, I asked if the colonel sees the difference between Lithuania of 2006 and now. “I remember sitting in a cafe and nobody passing by. And it was April in Vokiečių Street. Staff in the cafes were not unfriendly per se, they would just not come to get your order. Service was not based on niceness but on rules, like in the army,” Darius smiles. “Now service culture is amazing. Also, back then, I was told bus drivers could be rude.

The traffic was also a bit like a battle.

And now, for example, I don’t even have a car because public transport is wonderful. The drivers always wait for a person who’s running to make it, young people help old ladies get on the bus. The driving itself has changed immensely during these 12 years. Before I would be scared to step onto the pedestrian crossing, and now everyone stops the moment you set foot on it. Everything is different in shops too. I have heard many stories about rude cashiers.

I remember once I bought gifts to take to America and I didn’t have a discount card. The cashier inquired everyone standing in line whether they had a card until there was someone who was willing to lend it to me. Ultimately, she was not required to do so.”

In 2016 Darius brought his parents to see Lithuania. His mother was about five and his dad around 9 when they

But when it comes to Lithuanian officers, these people carry Vytis not only on their uniforms but also in their hearts.

left Lithuania. “I had some worries about the trip. They spoke of Kaunas so nicely, but so many things that had existed in 1944 were gone. However, there was no reason to worry.

After staying a week in Vilnius, we went to Kaunas. They went around the city, found the places from their childhood and felt right at home. My mother called the daughter of Kipras Petrauskas that she hasn’t seen since childhood, and after meeting, they talked for hours as if all these years hadn’t passed.” However, the main purpose of the trip was much nobler. “My mother’s father was buried in Karmėlava in 1992. When grandmother died in 2015, we wanted to bury her next to him. We also brought the ashes of my mothers’ brother Vytukas who had drowned.

In addition to names, the tomb bears only one word - sugrįžom (we have returned).”

Although Darius remembers his grandfather in fragments only, he notes his grandfather as the main inspiration for his career, “I don’t want to say lies, but there was a story about my grandfather being involved in the operation to take the stolen cannons out of Poland. After all, such stories are inspiring.” And what does the retired colonel do now? He is enjoying the slower pace of life and the freedom to choose. He continues to dance national dances and sometimes reads lectures to Lithuanian army or schoolchildren of various schools, and also participates in charity events. “If there were a need, I would always help Lithuania as much as I could,” we receive the word of the US marine.

“But when it comes to Lithuanian officers, these people carry Vytis not only on their uniforms but also in their hearts.”

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Last year, Gytis Bilevičius united a thousand, or perhaps even more, of Kaunas residents to celebrate the Centennial of the Restored State of Lithuania by cycling 100 thousand kilometres for Kaunas in May. The goal was reached in a couple of weeks, totalling 208 thousand kilometres. This May there is a new plan – to organise the first global Kaunas residents’ forum during Hanseatic Days, i.e. the city’s birthday. Who are these global Kaunas residents? How can they help Kaunas residents, and vice versa? As for now, the graduate of Kaunas Rasa High School and Vytautas Magnus University, a business consultant at an IT company, and a member of the social platform City Alumni has more questions than answers himself, but he also has things to say.

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Gunars Bakšejevs Photos by Elijus Kniežauskas

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Last year bicycles, this year a discussion forum. Do you have a goal to implement one big idea every year?

Overall, I am an active person. I volunteered for many years at various events and festivals. My approach to things is – if you want to do something – don’t just talk about it – do it! That’s how I came up with the bicycle challenge last year which turned out way better than I expected after a larger team joined us. It’s fun to come up with such ideas and implement them. So, after hearing one day about the organisation City Alumni and realising that K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E

my viewpoint matches their values, I decided to join. To be more specific, City Alumni Kaunas unites the Kaunas-born people who live elsewhere. And I, personally, spend half the time here and the other half in Vilnius, where the office of my principal workplace is. But I love Kaunas, it is important to me, and I want to create in it and for it. With five like-minded people, we decided to organise a global Kaunas residents forum. We aim to start a trend so that after the forum, Kaunas residents would like to and could discuss the questions they care about with municipality’s representatives;

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How would you define the term ‘a global Kaunas resident’?

In my opinion, it’s a person who carries Kaunas in his/her heart. Just like a global Lithuanian. No matter what your passport is or where you live. What matters is what’s inside.

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would have the opportunity to communicate with those living abroad and maybe even realise that the grass is not always greener on the other side.

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Tell us more about the City Alumni initiative. Who created it?

The founders of City Alumni are Global Shapers, a global organisation of young, proactive people, whose representatives have decided to create such an initiative in Lithuania.

Panevėžys, Jurbarkas, Širvintos, Birštonas and other Lithuanian cities have them too. More precisely, people from these cities are united by the branches of the club. Some are more active, others less. Kaunas branch had a couple of dozens of members, but now the number has decreased. We often meet in Vilnius because most of us live there. When we meet, we think about what we can do in Kaunas, plan events, and then I usually go to meetings with Kaunas organisations, because I spend half a week there.

And what unites you besides Kaunas: age, hobbies?

We are of a similar age, that’s true.

I would say we are all youths. But, for example, after the debate about dual citizenship initiated by City Alumni, we also attracted the attention of older people who expressed the desire to join us. So, the most important thing is that you want to do something good for your city. You will get back as much as you give.

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Kaunas Birthday is an excellent opportunity to get a lot of attention because there will be many people in the city. Were there other reasons for the forum to choose exactly this date?

We have already talked about the forum with Kaunas marketing and tourism agency Kaunas IN, Kaunas European Capital of Culture 2022 project team representatives. After talking to them, it turned out that Kaunas Hanseatic Days, which take place at the end of May, is precisely the right time. Both due to good weather and the occasion. Why not visit your native town on the occasion of its birthday, meet your relatives and also discuss some interesting topics?

What will the topics be?

We have already come up with some. One of them – abandoned unmanaged buildings. It would be interesting to learn about the reasons behind their state and to look for opportunities to fill them with life.

The second topic is the employment opportunities for young people. We would like all discussions to feature a global Kaunas resident who lives abroad, a person who returned to Kaunas from living abroad, as well as various professionals. Discussants would share their experiences, ask questions. I believe such exchanges of expertise could have real value. It will not be just a conversation.

Perhaps the first topic should be discussed in one of the abandoned buildings?

Good idea, maybe during the second forum?

You mentioned that you already spoke with the members of the Kaunas 2022 team about the forum. What do you personally expect from the 2022s, or maybe

Now going back to the forum, it would be interesting to know which abandoned Kaunas building would you tidy up first and what would you use it for?

The Jewish hospital ( bikur cholim) near Kaunas Castle. It seems to me that at the moment it is one of the biggest sores of Kaunas and the city would only gain from its cure. Why? It is in the best location in Kaunas.

There is a park nearby, easy to reach, massive flow of people. It is only necessary to find out what the residents would like to see in that place. And we can just learn about that by discussing and looking for ways to implement those visions. What I would

Why should Kaunas-born people living abroad participate in the forum?

As I said, it will be an excellent opportunity to congratulate your home town with its birthday, meet old friends. We will also organise a leisure program, and introduce with a changing Kaunas. Not only will you be able to share your experiences, insights, but also make new acquaintances. I see everyone benefiting – the guests, the local residents and us, the organisers.

Finally, let’s go back to the beginning of our conversation – bicycles. Can Kaunas become a city of cyclists like Amsterdam or Copenhagen? Are bicycle lanes the only thing that’s missing?

Also, good weather all year round. Of course, infrastructure as well. The attitude of car drivers is rapidly improving, and that’s a big plus. And I don’t know what more to add. Personally, I don’t lack anything, I am continually using my bicycle. Both on my own and with the like-minded people. For several years, we have organised September the 1st trips only to mark the beginning of the school year differently. And I’ve already talked about the bicycle challenge.

And if the reader hasn’t cycled in Kaunas, what should he start with?

Well, after the snow melts.

I would suggest starting from Trijų mergelių bridge, go to Panemunė all the way to the Town Hall and return through the city centre. And we usually go towards Vilkija, then take a ferry (it starts running from the Mother’s Day) across Nemunas and return via its other side.

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Which are your favourite museums in Kaunas?

I always liked T. Ivanauskas Zoological Museum and Vytautas the Great War Museum. During the workshop, we learned an interesting fact – most people think that nothing ever changes in museums, and that is why they don’t visit them. But that is really not the case. Today museums are dynamic, hosting many events. People only need to learn about them.

personally like to see there is not that important, I am only one out of thousands.

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the virus of the Capital of Culture has already infected you?

When I heard about this title, I thought that the city will focus on 2022, that it will be the year when most events will take place, and so on. But after a while I learned that the opposite is exact – 2022 will be the period of looking back and noting how much has been done. And it’s already happening right now.

It’s a lot of fun, and I’m trying to get involved in the things that interest me as much as I can after work and my activity in the City Alumni.

For example, I attended a workshop where we were looking for an answer to why museums are emptying and how could they be modernised.

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Photographed in jotjot studio DrobÄ—s g. 66. Photo by Shoop.lt

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We started the Merkurijus section a few years ago to fill a large niche of Kaunas‘ souvenirs’ shelf. We are glad that the issue is dealt with creatively and we continue to record every valuable and relevant newly opened spot, manufactured object or publication published in Kaunas every month. This time we feature the revival of Kauno Baldai building in Šančiai, portable and wearable Kaunas and many new publications.

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Here in Merkurijus, we were glad to hear about the achievements of these Kaunas residents who collaborate with international talents in various design competitions and now we are visiting the jotjot studio in the industrial neighbourhood of Žemieji Šančiai.

Here, you can see the award-winning pieces created by talented designers from around the world and valued by big sharks and even collaborate with the company if you feel like it.

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Kaunas city entertainment card Kaunastic

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Chamber Theatre play premiere, a film screening in Romuva, escape rooms and many other ways to spend time in Kaunas available on one small card. A good way to lure your friends to visit Kaunas.

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Kaunas Art Deco perfume From €10/.79

In the commemorative year of the Temporary capital, you can smell like the interwar period. And what is the scent of the golden age of Kaunas? Perfumer Eglė Jonaitytė says that it is a romantic fantasy about interwar Kaunas, its people, architecture, lifestyle, furniture colours, tapestries, revolving doors of Metropolis and a dress for one party that costs one month‘s salary.

The perfume has already become a representative gift from Kaunas.

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Street art clothing line It’s Kaunastic €33 – €53

Now, in addition to snapping a picture, you can also wear the wise old man, goal-oriented astronaut or Fluxus Aztec.

Currently, the line created by Kaunas IN and designer Rima Kazokaitė offers only tights and jumpers, but they say it’s only the beginning. And what tag would you like to see on your t-shirt?

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Sutemos / Dusk Titas Antanas Vilkaitis (Kitokia grafika, 2019) €10

A historical graphic novel - otherwise a thick comic book - presents the Kaunas residents who had fallen through the cracks of history. Among them Emma Goldman, Minkovsky brothers and others who are possibly unknown by many but who have left a mark on our city. In Lithuanian.

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Nemunas Lietuvos gyvenime 1918–1940 metais / Nemunas in Lithuania’s life 1918–1940 Gediminas Kasparavičius (Mokslo ir enciklopedijų leidybos centras, 2018) €15

If you want to discuss rivers, their flow, furrows, ships, and ports, it is the most fun to do so in Kaunas with Gediminas Kasparavičius, the doctoral candidate of VMU and the employee of the Historical Presidential Palace in Kaunas. Before that, be sure to read his book, which we hope will soon disappear from the bookstores and the quays in Kaunas will finally recover. In Lithuanian.

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Magazine for Kaunas Į (Kauno fotografijos galerija, 2018) €15

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What animals match with Kaunas logistics centres, where did the millions or perhaps even billions gained from Kaunas‘ factories disappear, what plants are flourishing in abandoned areas, what does the cult of collective gardens symbolize, what traditions did industrial co-workers foster and how did Tsarist Kaunas smell? Almost all of these questions are answered in the latest third - issue of the magazine for Kaunas Į. Its current topic is (post)industry. The magazine is available in both Lithuanian and English, so it can be a present to yourself or for someone abroad.

Kaunas Full of Culture 2018 yearbook

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We don‘t know how to praise ourselves but we are really happy to have collected 300 pages of heroes, stories, adventures and future predictions. Just like every month, available in two languages. It is possible to acquire a copy or read it at the Kaunas Artists‘ House.

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Magazine MASS Free of charge

The graduates of Kaunas 2022 program Kauno iššūkis, which is raising a 2022 generation for the city, issued a small but MASSive publication full of graphics, short unedited messages and, of course, Kaunas. The second issue won‘t be long and meanwhile, you can find the first one in Talent Garden Kaunas, Kaunas Artists‘ House or Tempo space in the Old Town.

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100 pakilių akimirkų: tarpukario šventės ir iškilmės / 100 uplifting moments: interwar period festivities and celebrations (Kaunas County Public Library, 2018) €15

It seems like we‘ve been celebrating throughout last year but we have to admit that we are more capable of commemorating important dates than just having fun. Therefore, in 2019, the year commemorating the Temporary capital, every Kaunas resident should draw inspiration from the fellow citizens who partied in the interwar period.

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Imagining Lithuania: 100 years, 100 visions, 1918-2018 (edited by Norbertas Černiauskas, Tomas Vaiseta, Marija Drėmaitė, Baltos lankos, 2018) €15

We’ve celebrated, and now it is time to get a bit more serious and assess what politicians, scientists, artists, and others have created, predicted and wished for Lithuania over a hundred years. The book was first published in English, so it is very nice that it is available to international readers and Lithuanians, too.

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Calendar Theatre Tuesday, 01 08, 7 pm

Performance “Brodsky/ Baryshnikov”

“Brodsky/Baryshnikov” is a one-man show based on the poems of Nobel laureate Joseph Brodsky, performed by Mikhail Baryshnikov. It is an emotional journey deep into the poet’s visceral and complex compositions. Performed in Russian, Brodsky’s mother tongue, Baryshnikov recites a selection of his long-time friend’s poignant and eloquent works. His subtle physicality transports the audience into Hermanis’ reverent imagining of Brodsky’s interior world.

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VMU great hall, S. Daukanto g. 28

Saturday, 01 12, 6:30 pm

Solo performance “Journey” “Teatro klubas”, Vilniaus g. 22

A young Vilnius-born actress Donata Kielaitė brings back to life the forever relevant poetry of Judita Vaičiūnaite.

This play is a journey through the world of disappointments and hopes, loneliness and faith, suffering and love. In Lithuanian.

Tuesday, 01 15, 6:30 pm

Solo performance by Alytus city theatre “Seen” Kaunas City Chamber Theater, Kęstučio g. 74A Pet-friendly places

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The play “Seen” is about eating disorders, body cult and the lack of love for oneself. It is created from real-life stories of three young women, and they reflect if a single character’s named Ūla experience. Ūla decides to share this experience with her followers by creating an honest, harsh and unexpectedly heartfelt vlog which becomes an emotional confession. And the same could be said about the play itself. “Seen” is a confession represented through music, movement, and a live vocal. It’s a story about all people who desire love and acceptance from others so much that they forget one’s true self. In Lithuanian.

Friday, 01 18, 7 pm

Premiere. Performance “The Trojan women” Nacional Kaunas drama theatre, Laisvės al. 71

Dramaturgy of the play is built upon the connection between the causes and consequences of the Trojan War, based on Euripides’ tragedies Iphigenia in Tauris and Trojan Women. Also used in the play are the fragments of Margaret Atwood’s Penelopiad, The Unwomanly

January Face of War by Svetlana Alexievich, and other documentary material. The central theme of the play is the victim of war. The director Povilas Makauskas wants to depict it through a collage of human tragedy, which analyses a wide variety of war topics: the absurdity of war, the sacrifice of a woman, violence against women, cruelty, the consequences of nationalism, the crisis of patriarchy, and the losses and traumas of war. In Lithuanian.

Sunday, 01 02, 12 pm

Performance “Hello, hello, Earth!”

Kaunas puppet theatre, Laisvės al. 87A

The main characters of this fairytale a tiny horse and a frog get bored of their home on Earth. “We’ll travel there the grass is greener, the water is wetter, and the sun is warmer” – decide the heroes and prepare for an epic journey through the galaxy. A great adventure is ahead of them as they will travel to the Moon and the planets which orbit the sun. However, is there really a more beautiful and cosy planet than our Earth? In Lithuanian.

Thursday, 01 24, 7 pm

Premiere. Performance “The way of the wind” Kaunas City Chamber Theater, Kęstučio g. 74A

Father and son story on generational differences and paternal influence on our decisions. How we choose our goals - according to our own ideals or those which are formed by our parents? ]“This is the performance for sons and their fathers about the side of men, which we do not expose. It‘s not about some feelings which men do not show, but about the expectations, which father elevates above the abilities of his son. And about the unavoidable feeling of shame, which we experience because of trying too much,“ says the director Gildas Aleksa. In Lithuanian.

Friday, 01 25, 6:30 pm

“Sandra Domingo” flamenco dance performance “The dreams” “Girstutis”, Kovo 11-osios g. 26

Exclusively designed costumes, classic and expressive flamenco dance elements, intertwining with unexpected and original searches for expression on the stage. Music by Diego Gallego, J.S. Bach, J. Strauss and other modern composers’ will drive this performance.

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Calendar Tuesday, 01 24, 2 pm

Performance “In a rush”

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Nacional Kaunas drama theatre, Laisvės al. 71

When you are fourteen, your life is crazy: you dive headfirst into things, you hang out with your friends, fall in love, climb on the rooftop and drown in the music. All you want is kisses, adventure, parties, laughter, appreciation, power and support. The play “In a rush” portrays teenagers’ world, which sometimes might be complicated and harsh, yet lively and moving. This play is based on Internet forum stories and real-life stories told by 13-16-year-old children. In Lithuanian.

Wednesday, 01 30, 6 pm

Performance “DreamWorks” Kaunas City Chamber Theater, Kęstučio g. 74A

According to the author, playwright Ivan Vyrypajev, “DreamWorks” is just a love story. However, the director Agnius Jankevicius puts a different twist on this story. The focus of the play is that it doesn’t matter, what has already happened. What matters is how you would like to proceed with your story and from which moment of it. There is no fatal mistakes, no fault or fate. Here, misfortunes, rage or stupidity become a chance to look at it all from a different perspective. In Lithuanian.

Thursday, 01 31, 6:30 pm

Performance “Women of the century” “Teatro Klubas”, Vilniaus g. 22

In this play, you will see famous Lithuanian women of the mid-war era, who helped to rebuild our young country with their creative work. The first and the second women assemblies in 1907 and in 1937 as well as the greatest female artists and activists: Gabrielė Petkevičaitė-Bitė, Julija Žymantienė-Žemaitė, Sofija Smetonienė, Jadvyga Tūbelienė, Ono Rymaitė, and Felicija Bortkevičienė are in the centre of attention of this play. In Lithuanian.

Music Friday, 01 11, 7 pm

“Matters_”: PHONĒ Kaunas Artist’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56

The “Kaunas 2022” industrial culture programme presents a live music

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January event featuring “Skeldos”, “Sala” and “π”. Expect an aura of melancholy, echoing sound of synthesisers, ritualistic shouts and an endless melody of winter.

Friday, 01 11, 7:30 pm

Live: “Ugniavijas” album release concert Kaunas Garrison Officers’ club “Ramovė”, A. Mickevičiaus g. 19

Kaunas Garrison Officers’ Club “Ramovė” invites to a commemoration of the fallen heroes of January the 13 and an acoustic concert of the band “Ugniavijas”. The concert is free, and the doors open at 7 pm.

they released an album and will present it here. “Gangrena” (black’n’roll/ punk) will warm up the stage.

Sunday, 01 20, 5 pm

Live: “Fly Me to the Dixieland Country”

Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5 Kaunas- based Dixieland band “DixXband” invites you to their first concert of the season. In the evening filed with improvisations, exciting melodies and rhythms you will be able to hear the sounds of New Orleans and Chicago as well as enjoy lindy hop dances.

Tuesday, 01 22, 7 pm

Thursday, 01 17, 8 pm

Free Finga album “Pick Up Line” release concert “Sinagoga Studio”, Vaisių g. 30

In the album “Pick Up Line” you would find thirteen songs about Tinder, loneliness, and nonsense. Before the holidays this album shook up the internet, and now it’s time to hear it live.

Saturday, 01 19, 9 pm

Live: “Grinding Bombing Thrashing” “Lemmy” club, Girstupio g. 1

Guests from Poland “Nuclear Holocaust” (thrash/grind) are coming back to Kaunas after a year. In that time,

CRRNT No. 12

Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56 CRRNT is a concert series dedicated to contemporary and experimental music. The twelfth instalment will feature well-known musicians: Arnas Mikalkėnas, Eugenijus Kanevičius and Dalius Naujokaitis.

Wednesday, 01 23, 7 pm

Live: “Improdimensija” “Jazz Academy”, Baltų pr. 34

In a tiny hall that has seating for only 49 people, you’ll hear masterful improvisations from three jazz musicians: Arnas Mikalkėnas, Kęstutis Sova and Tadas Petkevičius-Grajauskas.

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Calendar Thursday, 01 24, 7:30 pm

Live: Monika Linkytė and “London Community Gospel Choir”

Saturday, 01 26, 6 pm

Live: “The Tiger Lillies”

VMU Great Hall, S. Daukanto g. 28

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Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5

A good start, as wise people say, is half the battle, or at least a guaranteed good sign of that the year will be full of long-term impressions. The singer Monika Linkytė, together with the famous “London Community Gospel Choir”, adorns the beginning of the new year with a high-quality concert called “Create Your World”.

Friday, 01 25, 6 pm

Live: “Inimitable sound of a violin” Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5

A cold winter evening will be warmed up by the sounds of Ludwig van Beethoven’s “Violin Concerto” and compositions of Edward Elgar. Famous classical pieces will be performed by Kaunas city symphony orchestra and violinist Pavel Berman.

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“The Tiger Lillies” manage to mix and match things that seem to be complete opposites and in that way creates a unique sound and unforgettable performances. Macabre grimace, irony, cabaret, dark deep sadness paired with softness and the purest beauty is what defines “The Tiger Lillies” as a band.

Saturday, 01 26, 7:30 pm

Colours of Bubbles’ acoustic concert “Home” Kaunas Cultural Centre, Kęstučio g. 1

2018 has been a busy year for the band “Colours of Bubbles”. Therefore, the band is preparing for a long vacation and recording of a new album, but before that, they will be performing an acoustic set “Home” in Kaunas Cultural Centre.

Thursday, 01 31, 9 pm

Live: “Samba da Minha Terra” “PuntoJazz” attic, Kęstučio g. 6

January The word “terra” means land, but in this context, it refers particularly to the biggest country in South America – Brazil. Because of its history, Brazil is one of the biggest centres of mixed cultures, traditions, languages, and music nowadays. Musicians that will be performing in “PuntoJazz” attic wish to present unexpected and intriguing sides of Brazil’s culture.

Catchy tunes and honest stories from different regions of Brazil, music that makes you emotional and happy, that’s the journey that awaits you in the concert “Samba da Minha Terra”.

Thursday, 01 31, 6 pm

Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra anniversary concert Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5

The story of Lithuanian state symphony orchestra began over three decades ago. It all started with Ludwig van Beethoven’s “Symphony no. 5” in its very first concert and on 31st of January you will be able to hear it played fresh as the orchestra celebrates its birthday.

Exhibitions 11 28 – 01 25

“Rembrandt van Rijn.

Drawings” House of Perkūnas, Aleksoto g. 6

In this facsimile exhibition, you will find drawings with 50 favourite subjects from the bible of a famous artist Rembrandt van Rijn. There will also be Dutch landscapes, painter’s home interior, a nude study of a woman, portraits of soldiers, homeless, men and women, still life scenes with children, a few drawings of gallows and more.

11 29 – 03 03

“Pranas Gailius’ (1928–2015) Life Scenes” M. Žilinskas Art Gallery, Nepriklausomybės a. 12

It was in Paris that Pranas Gailius formed himself as an artist, although the Lithuanian childhood memories, as well as folk art peculiarities, had always been the source of inspiration, which added a great deal of originality to his works. The artist had a unique ability to interest the viewer, the interlocutor, though he never tried to create long-lasting works. Among a great lot of Pranas Gailius works there are four paintings from the cycle Scènes de la vie de Pranas (Pranas’ Life Scenes). Indeed, all his works capture scenes from his life. The artist usually created sequences of pictures – those that would reflect his thinking and approach to different processes of life.

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Calendar 12 06 – 01 27

“Promenades with a Bird”

by Rimantas Antanas Šulskis

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Picture Gallery, K. Donelaičio a. 16

R. A. Šulskis (1943–1995) was an artist with strong moral views, intellect, philosophical thinking, and a distinct style of expression in his creative work. He invented and perfected the unique technique of copper forging, which is original both in Lithuanian and world art. On the occasion of R. A. Šulskis’ 75th anniversary, the public is presented with the exposition of small sculpture and monotypes – the works stored at the museum. It opens a lesser-known and researched stage of the artist’s creative work, not only demonstrates the multifaceted talent of mastering various fields of art and techniques, but also deepens and broadens the insights into the personality, search for freedom, which is worth mentioning alongside with other prominent characters in the context of the centenary of Independent Lithuania.

12 19 – 01 25

Kaido Ole & Jonas Gasiūnas. “Družba”

“Accents. Undivided History”. The project is dedicated to commemorating the 100th anniversary of Estonian, Latvian, Lithuanian and Polish independence. Scientists claim that it takes not less than 200 hours for two people to spend together to become real friends. And how about 50 years side by side? What if we never asked for it? Being occupied for half of the century together – seeing other oppressed, trying together to stay strong and retain identity. The exhibition presented here is similar – we present two painters – Estonian Kaido Ole and Lithuanian Jonas Gasiūnas.

12 29 – 02 16

Gražina DidelytėAbaravičienė. “Depths”

A. and P. Galaunė House, Vydūno al. 2 As a commemoration of the 80th anniversary of Gražina Didelytė-Abaravičienė, there will be 30 pieces from M. K. Čiurlionis national museum of art collections exhibited in A. and P. Galaunė House. Here you will be able to see artist’s early works from 1975 as well as pieces gifted personally to the Galaunė family by Gražina Didelytė-Abaravičienė.

Gallery “Meno parkas”, Rotušės a. 27 01 05 – 02 03

Collective exhibition “In Other Places”

Kaunas Gallery, Vilniaus g. 2

The exhibition is a part of the project

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The exhibition “In Other Places”, curated by Gytis Skudžinskas, will present artists that create outside of Lithuania. At the end of 2018 series of

January exhibitions “In Other Places”, that took place in “Prospektas” photo gallery in Vilnius, were divided into three parts, separating authors according to their age/generation and categories of creative methods. The exhibition presented in Kaunas Photography Gallery unfolds the fabric of exodus photography, versatile and motley picture of expatriates regardless of topics developed by these authors or their belonging to a particular generation.

01 09 – 02 11

Arvydas Čiukšys.

“Wandering around Kaunas” Kaunas County Public Library, Radastų g. 2

Architect and photographer Arvydas Čiukšys has a hobby of wandering around his hometown Kaunas, and this hobby has resulted in a colourful collection of pictures. Pictures of modernistic buildings have drawn quite a bit of attention on the internet from Lithuanians and foreigners alike. Now, you can see an exhibition of the photographer’s work in Kaunas county public library.

01 10 – 01 23

“Baltic Illustration.

Comics #2”

“Ars et Mundus” gallery, A. Mapu g. 20

First organised in 2015, “Baltic Illustration” is an international exhibition cycle for comics and illustrations featuring works of artists from Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia. The works of the participants of “Baltic Illustration.

Comics #2” are very different in all possible meanings – the line between comics and other fields of art vanishes.

While a part of the works showcased rely heavily on text and dialogues, others are created without any text altogether. The techniques of the comics also vary: gouache, pencil, rapidograph, watercolour and computer graphics.

01 10 – 03 31

“Lithuania in Litvak Arts“ Kaunas City Museum, Rotušės a. 15

The exhibition presents the certain aspects of the creative work of Litvak artists, which reveal the typifying and transformation of the image of Lithuania, starting with romantic historical Vilnius, native shtetls and the traditional Lithuanian landscape, and ending with the poor workers’ quarters, the ruins of the towns and Lithuania on the other side of the barbed wire fence.

The exhibition is based on the art, writings and photography collections of the Vilna Gaon State Jewish Museum. It has been supplemented with visual and documentary material kindly provided by other museums, archives and private collections of Lithuania, Poland, Israel, Italy, France, Russia, USA, and Uruguay. An audio guide for the visually impaired is available at the exhibition.

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Calendar Sports Wednesday, 01 16, 7 pm

Lithuanian handball league: Granitas-Karys – Vilnius As of mid-championship of Lithuanian handball league, two Kaunas teams are in the leadership positions. Will you support our city’s team “Granitas-Karys” as they try to remain in the number one spot in the march against Vilnius city’s team?

Cinema 01 11 – 01 13

LUX film days

Kaunas Cinema Centre “Romuva”, Kęstučio g. 62

Sunday, 01 20, 5 pm

LKL: “Žalgiris” – “Nevėžis” “Žalgirio” arena, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 50

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Kaunas sports hall, Perkūno al. 5

In the first march of the season “Kaunas Hockey” is getting challenged by young Vilnius-based team “Geležinis Vilkas”. Who will triumph on slippery ice? Before the game, take your time to try out a free public ice skating arena right next to the event’s location.

After a brief holiday season pause, “Žalgirio” arena and a Lithuanian basketball league (LKL) invites you to an exciting match between two basketball clubs “Žalgiris” and “Nevėžis” (Kėdainiai). Together we can help our team to defend their title as the best basketball team in Lithuania.

Wednesday, 02 06, 8:30 pm

National ice hockey league: “Kaunas Hockey” – “Geležinis Vilkas” Kaunas ice arena “Baltų ainiai”, Aušros g. 42C

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LUX film days project aims to bring the screenings of the finalists of the LUX film prize closer to European citizens across all 28 countries of the European Union. Subtitled in the 24 official languages of the EU, the films of the LUX film prize are travelling together, visiting more than 40 cities of the 28 European Member States.

Purpose of the LUX project is to introduce citizens to European cinema and motivate people to discuss relevant topics. This year in Kaunas you will be able to see three films: the prize winner “Woman at War” (Island, France, Ukraine), as well as finalists “Styx” (Germany, Austria), and “The Other Side of Everything” (Serbia, France, Belgrade).

January Sunday, 01 13, 4 pm

Screening. “Loro”

Kaunas Cinema Centre “Romuva”, Kęstučio g. 62

maker and his 96th birthday, a philosopher Kristina Terentjevaitė will give a short lecture on J. Mekas. After that lecture, we’ll be watching “Lithuania and the Collapse of the USSR”.

Wednesday, 01 16, 7 pm

Common People: “Silence is a Falling Body” Kaunas Artist’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56

Seduction, glamour, corruption, drugs and raucous poolside parties: the life and times of scandal-plagued Silvio Berlusconi have long-demanded a screen depiction, and who else to deliver it than Paolo Sorrentino, the Academy Award-winning director of The Great Beauty and The Young Pope, who returns to cinema in spectacular fashion with this dazzling, topical and no-holds-barred look at life in Italy under the glistening eye of modern Europe’s most infamous politician.

Sunday, 01 13, 6 pm

“Cinema at a Bar: Jonas Mekas” “Godo” bar, Laisvės al. 89-1D

Jonas Mekas is a Lithuania-born USA-based filmmaker, often called the godfather of American avant-garde cinema. In celebration of the film-

“Kitas Kinas”, the educational film platform, returns to Kaunas Artists’ House and presents “Common People” - a series of documentary film screenings. At the heart of these films lie the portraits of eccentrics and hermits, tender relationships and everyday social occurrences, subcultures and communities, living in the margins of society. “Silence is a Falling Body” is an intimate ego-documentary portrait and a tale of passion, sexuality, family, and freedom.

More events pilnas.kaunas.lt

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Calendar Friday, 01 18, several screenings

“The Favorite”

“Forum Cinemas”, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 49

Other events Thursday, 01 10, 4 pm

Lithuanian presidential elections debates VMU great hall, S. Daukanto g. 28

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Academic politics club invites you to presidential debates. Candidates for Lithuanian president’s seat will discuss the role of a president in country’s politics. Speakers: Aušra Maldeikienė, Ingrida Šimonytė, Naglis Puteikis, Petras Auštrevičius, Gitanas Nausėda, and Arvydas Juozaitis.

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Early 18th century. England is at war with the French. Nevertheless, duck racing and pineapple eating are thriving. A frail Queen Anne (Olivia Colman) occupies the throne, and her close friend Lady Sarah Churchill (Rachel Weisz) governs the country in her stead while tending to Anne’s ill health and a mercurial temper. When a new servant Abigail Masham (Emma Stone) arrives, her charm endears her to Sarah. Sarah takes Abigail under her wing, and Abigail sees a chance at a return to her aristocratic roots. As the politics of war become quite time consuming for Sarah, Abigail steps into the breach to fill in as the Queen’s companion. Their burgeoning friendship gives her a chance to fulfil her ambitions, and she will not let woman, man, politics or rabbit stand in her way.

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Saturday, 01 12, 8 pm

Night workshop.

“Art doesn’t sleep” “Teatro fabrikas”, Kęstučio g. 62

One modern poem, non-traditional theatre space and three different kinds of art: electronic music, video projections, and modern dance as well as three young but already experienced artists are inviting you to join them and experiment. If you’d like to learn the basics of how electronic music is made, experience poetry of body movement, and see how slide projector can be used in video art, you should register for the event at http://bit.ly/menas_nemiega.

More events pilnas.kaunas.lt

January Tuesday, 01 15, 7 pm

Poetry slam #18

Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56 There will be enough time and space for everything from holiday stories to New Year’s resolutions in the first poetry slam of the season. Register at menas@kmn.lt

around the world of hate and moral confrontation. The show will be in English.

Thursday, 01 17, 10 am

Higher Education Fair “Žalgirio” arena, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 50

Wednesday, 01 16, 7 pm

Stand-up: Jamali Maddix “Vape Lord” “Džem’pub”, Laisvės al. 59, 5 aukštas

This is an 18th higher education fair in Lithuania which connects universities, colleges, current, and future students. This fair’s task is not only to help students find the best course for themselves but also to inform about the quality of the studies, recent changes in their programs and more.

01 17 – 01 20

International Tango Festival “Cinco Sentidos” Several places Critically acclaimed comedian and host of Viceland’s “Hate Thy Neighbour”, Jamali Maddix is embarking on his first World Tour. He’ll be bringing brutally honest and unflinching material on the state of society along with personal tales from his travels

The festival brings together tango, folklore, workshops, milongas, and performances. A few days of dance lessons with the masters of the art from Argentina as well as two breathtaking performances await you in the first international tango festival in Kaunas.

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pilnas.kaunas.lt

“Mother painted bizarre clouds. I used to ask her why. When I first landed in Lithuania, I remember walking out of the airport and looking at the sky.

I then understood it all.

It was a lovely spring day, and great clouds were floating in the sky.

I looked into mother’s eyes, and it all became clear to me”.

Peter Kuhlmann, the grandson of interwar Lithuanian Prime Minister Juozas Tūbelis (1882–1939) and Jadvyga ChodakauskaitėTūbelienė (1891–1988), the son of painter Marija Tūbelytė-Kuhlmann (1923–2014).

KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE Monthly newspaper about personalities and events in Kaunas (free of charge)

Laisvės alėja 59, third floor

Editorial office:

Authors: Andrejus Bykovas, Artūras Bulota, Austėja Banytė, Bernadeta Buzaitė, Domantas Jakučionis, Donatas Stankevičius, Eglė Šertvyčūtė, Elijus Kniežauskas, Emilija Visockaitė, Gunars Bakšejevs, Julija Račiūnaitė, Justė Vyšniauskaitė, Kotryna Lingienė, Kęstutis Lingys, Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis.

Patrons:

KAUNO MIESTO SAVIVALDYBĖ

RUN 100010COPIES TIRAŽAS 000 EGZ.

ISSN 2424-4481 2424-4465

Leidžia: Publisher

2019 (41) 2017 No. Nr. 21 (18)