5 Low-Key Spots for a Beer
TRIP PLANNER: KLAMATH FALLS PG. 84
A New Model for Travel
Creamy Clam Chowder
ZOOM TOWNS OREGON’S B BEST PLACES TO WORK REMOTELY
PLUS:
TOURISM 2021 OREGON’S TOP DESTINATIONS ON WHAT TO EXPECT
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You don’t have to pedal the world to be a discoverer. Or be the first international female sports star, like Annie Londonderry, a mother from Boston who cycled around the world in 1895. You just have to explore Discovery West. Nestled in Bend’s Westside, this new community is at the heart of beauty, nature, and lifestyle that makes Bend, well, Bend. Visit discoverywestbend.com to learn about the neighborhood, Annie herself – and how you could even find your new home on Londonderry Place. Or head on over to our Discovery Pod, open daily, at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane and do your own exploring.
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Net Worth photography by Amanda Loman Meet Sara Skamser, known as the “Trawl Goddess of the West Coast” in one of the world’s most dangerous industries. She said her “wicked sense of humor and lack of fear of men” helped in working to restore the region’s decimated fishery. (pg. 52) 2 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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Hugo Hernandez, left, and Shawn Lafontaine wrap hula skirting along a halibut excluder, which is used to catch yellowfin sole, and is produced by Foulweather Trawl in Newport.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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FEATURES
Mt. Hood is one of the reasons the Hood River community is an attractive “Zoom town.”
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021 • volume 66
64 Tourism’s Creativity and Resilience The tourism industry has never seen a year like the past one and, hopefully, never will again. Here’s how Oregon’s top tourism institutions’ creativity and resilience should pay off as you plan travel for summer 2021. written by Kevin Max
56 The Boom in Zoom Towns
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More than ever, work can be wherever you choose. Across America, millions have begun working remotely and are living in their favorite “Zoom town.” We’ve picked five of Oregon’s best places to live and connect with workplaces virtually.
Wild Oregon
written by Cathy Carroll
Go further with us. Break away from the so-called “best trails” and get a glimpse of some Oregon’s most rugged and serene wilderness vistas.
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Jen Jones
written and photographed by Christian Murillo
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
DEPARTMENTS JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021 • volume 66
LIVE 14 NOTEBOOK
Kick off 2021 with new sounds from a beloved Portland alt-rocker, and peruse the top book picks from the author of Pale Morning Light With Violet Swan.
18 FOOD + DRINK
78
Discover a new favorite beer-drinking spot or whip up a hot Prescribed Burn cocktail. Check out the fun flavors of Tokyo, plus the fresh goods and stiff drinks of Montelupo Italian Market.
22 FARM TO TABLE
Got cow-milking robots? Meet the third-generation farmer who brings old and new knowledge to producing organic milk. It will inspire you to make a classic chowder, an innovative milk foam or homemade ricotta. Wilder Projects and Foundry 503
30 HOME + DESIGN
If you’ve ever wanted to build a home in your favorite vacation spot, tear a page from the playbook of this architect’s design for a modern classic in Arch Cape.
36 MIND + BODY
Discover how live streaming meditation can ease anxiety and stress through virtual community-building. Find out why mindfulness-inducing apps have become so popular, too.
38 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
The act of collaborating is as important as the finished piece for this leading Indigenous contemporary artist who’s gathering materials from hundreds of contributors.
THINK 44 STARTUP
Pledge for the Wild is a new platform connecting visitors with a way to financially support the outdoor recreational lands they enjoy during their travels.
46 WHAT’S GOING UP Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau
When an extensive renovation of the Salem Public Library is done this summer, it will be a bright new venue serving to reconnect its community.
48 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
As Central Oregon LandWatch tackles threats from wildfire and development, its new leader discusses a big win and the battle for the Skyline Forest.
50 MY WORKSPACE
Thomas Boyd
84
Lee Riley, a career horticulturist and forest restoration specialist at the Dorena Genetic Resource Center, a U.S. Forest Service nursery outside Cottage Grove, works to restore hundreds of thousands of acres ravaged by Oregon wildfires.
50 8 9 94 96
Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
52 GAME CHANGER
Sara Skamser’s company, Foulweather Trawl, custom makes commercial fishing nets that have helped rescue and preserve Oregon’s commercial fishing industry.
EXPLORE 78 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
What do you get when you take an old-school, roadside eatery, two restaurateurs with farmto-table sensibilities and a great view? One of the most charming spots in the Gorge.
80 ADVENTURE
This loop through Eastern Oregon involves rare whiskeys, truck stops, wild horses—and a scenic finale that makes world-travelers’ jaws drop.
82 LODGING
Crush cabin fever with a retreat back in time and into nature at Lake of the Woods Resort.
84 TRIP PLANNER COVER
photo by Justin Bailie Cannon Beach (see The Boom in Zoom Towns, pg. 56)
Klamath Falls is a choose-your-own-adventure base for exploring two national scenic wonders and days of snowshoeing, Nordic skiing, sledding, ice-fishing, zip lining, birding and ale-pairing.
90 DESTINATIONS
You don’t need golf clubs to experience Palm Springs’ natural desert beauty. Here’s the script for doing it as if you’re a player in the playground of the stars.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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CONTRIBUTORS
ERIC FLOWERS Writer Mind + Body
JONI KABANA Writer and Photographer Adventure
AMANDA LOMAN Photographer Game Changer
TAMBI LANE Photographer Homegrown Chef
A year or so ago, I started toying with meditation as a stress management technique. So when the opportunity to write about the booming popularity of meditation apps and online classes came up, I was intrigued. That led me to Portland’s Pause studio which had to shut temporarily due to state lockdown rules. A quick pivot, however, has put Pause among the forefront of online and remote practices in a booming industry as pandemic-stressed people flock to meditation and mindfulness practices. (pg. 36)
It was month eight of the pandemic and I needed to get out onto Oregon’s open roads again, safely. Fortunately, we live in a state with varying terrain, gorgeous open vistas and a lot of space. This road trip treated far more than homebound wanderlust. I was captivated by the otherworldly settings in Oregon’s southeastern corner and its power in influencing how you think about life’s questions. Funny how prolonged stillness in a beautiful setting can do that to a person. (pg. 80)
Sara Skamser told me that she hadn’t been much to her commercial fishing net company, Foulweather Trawl, since falling ill, but you’d never know it from how easily she fell back in, calling the shots and joking with her trawl technicians. Her wicked sense of humor was out in force, as she introduced me to a fisherman as her obituary photographer. After we all laughed, she walked back with a new sweatshirt from the fishing vessel, a gift to the “Trawl Goddess of the West Coast.” (pg. 52)
Food feeds and comforts. Food is family and friendship. It is an adventure and the unknown. Food photography has taken me places I never knew I could go. I’ve experienced art in ways I never knew possible, and I am learning to embrace it all. When I said yes to my first food photography project, I was not prepared for where the path would lead. The biggest lesson for me was to just say yes and embrace the road ahead.
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“Pull up a chair. Take a taste. Come join us. Life is so endlessly delicious.” — Ruth Reichl (pg. 28)
EDITOR Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Cathy Carroll CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
SALES ASSISTANT
HOMEGROWN CHEF
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Aaron Opsahl Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Elijah Aikens Thor Erickson Beau Eastes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Melissa Dalton, Eric Flowers, Shirley A. Hancock, Ryan Hashagen, Joni Kabana, Sophia McDonald, Ben Salmon, Jen Stevenson
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Justin Bailie, Thomas Boyd, Dan Hawk, Jen Jones, Joni Kabana, Tambi Lane, Amanda Loman, Christian Murillo
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JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 7
FROM THE EDITOR I’M ALREADY BEGINNING to feel different about it all. Maybe it’s desperation, a mental imperative, but with the delivery of the first vaccines, I feel a weight lifting across the region. Of course, we’ll still wear masks and (un)socially distance until the preponderance of us is vaccinated, but effective vaccines are out there and a public health vaccination program is leading a revolution of a million needles. In the meantime, countless families have been affected by the pandemic in many ways. Likewise, the people behind the small businesses of the Pacific Northwest have suffered, too. Long an advocate for local businesses in the region, we decided to take an additional step in promoting these businesses by marketing their locally made goods. Our new online shop, Local, introduces our audience to some of the products we feature (or you would expect to find) in 1859 or 1889, are locally made and support people trying to do the right thing through their businesses. Local is a place where you’ll find extraordinary craftsmen and craftswomen, arduous makers in the Pacific Northwest and passionate entrepreneurs. Under this framework, we’re adding new products weekly. Shopping Local matters. We’re no Amazon, but, hey, we’re no Amazon! You can find Local under the Shop tab at the top of our website. In this issue of 1859, we’re hopeful that we will, this spring, be back in the car for a weekend coastal getaway, eating in our favorite Portland restaurants and drinking Editing in seclusion while being guilted into running with Guinness. a mountain biking recovery beer in a Bend brewery. We look at how Oregon’s travel and recreation institutions— think Oregon Shakespeare Festival, Oregon Coast Aquarium, hotels, restaurants and concert venues—believe our Meditation massively gained mindshare among Oregonians experiences will change this year, as we recover from Covid over the past year. Meditation is a space free of politics, eman(Tourism’s Creativity and Resilience, pg. 64). cipated from the onus of quarantine and available to anyone. In another feature, we explore a phenomenon that the pan- Pause Studio offers meditation through hosted studio sessions, demic rapidly expanded—the creation of “Zoom towns,” or cit- filling a void of mass distributed apps with a personal touch ies and towns that are seeing a significant influx of profession- (Mind + Body, pg. 36). als moving there because remote working is the future. In The What should bring peace of mind to all Oregonians is the abilBoom in Zoom Towns on pg. 56, Cathy Carroll reveals five of ity to sit with friends at one of your favorite breweries and sip the the state’s ideal Zoom towns. See who made the list. craft of local brewers. In Beerlandia, Beau Eastes reveals his five Not unrelated to the 2020 vibe is the need for all things cozy favorite under-the-radar beer-drinking spots across the state. I, and peace of mind. Find Flying Fish Company’s (Portland) great for one, will be using this as a travel guide in the coming months. recipe for clam chowder, made with local dairy and seafood. If Cheers! you are in Portland, get curbside pickup from the original chefs. Turn to Recipes on pg. 26.
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1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon
have a photo that shows off your oregon experience? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/ postcard
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A NEW WAY TO SHOP LOCAL
Winter views at Crater Lake.
Welcome to Local, a curated shop of cool goods made by small businesses in the Pacific Northwest, NEW from 1859 Oregon’s Magazine. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop
ENTER TO WIN
fivepine lodge wellness package Enter for a chance to win a getaway to FivePine Lodge in Sisters! One winner will receive a relaxing two-night stay in the new Serenity Cabin, two individual one-hour classic Swedish massages at Shibui Spa, a $25 voucher to top restaurants in Sisters Country and more. FivePine Lodge was recently recognized among the top hotel destinations in the U.S. for romance (#4) and service (#5) by Tripadvisor’s 2020 Travelers’ Choice Best of the Best awards. Enter at www.1859oregonmagazine.com/contests/fivepine Contest runs through January 31. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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NOTEBOOK 12 FOOD + DRINK 18 FARM TO TABLE 22 HOME + DESIGN 30 MIND + BODY 36
pg. 28 Our Homegrown Chef’s recipe for homemade ricotta is well worth it.
Tambi Lane
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 38
notebook
Tidbits + To-dos
Smith Tea
What could possibly be better than gathering around a fire with winter cocktails made with artisan spirits? Easily grabbing them in ready-to-drink cans. 503 Distilling’s Mt. Hood Old Fashioned blends rye whiskey with bitters, Oregon filberts and Vermont maple syrup for a tasty, 40-proof craft cocktail. Feeling uncannily old-fashioned? Warm up with a pour from a bottle of its Pear Brandy, crafted from Hood River Bartlett pears which were harvested, crushed and fermented by the Oregon City-based distillery team all during a level-one wildfire evacuation alert last fall.
Ready for some exotic travel with friends? Escape via your palate, as you cozy up over steaming cups of tea with friends while a tasting expert leads you through the flavor profile of Mao Feng Shui green, Alishan oolong, Meadow herbal and more thoughtprovoking brews from obscure corners of the planet. The Smith Tea Kit arrives at your doorstep, a Zoom link lands in your inbox, and you’re off on your virtual journey. Within ninety minutes you’ll be steeped in tea knowledge, distinguishing among white, black and fermented varieties while you reconnect with pals near and far.
www.503distilling.com
www.smithtea.com
503 Distilling
High Desert Museum You know the feeling when one of Oregon’s dramatic natural features dares us to do something devilish? Lose yourself in the world of those who heeded the call. Evel Knievel, Kitty O’Neil and other characters of the ’70s thrill-seeking heyday are the focus of the exhibit “Daredevils’’ at the High Desert Museum in Bend. From Denny “The Flying Irishman” Edwards’s Triumph motorcycle to the pink mink coat Knievel gave Debbie “The Flying Angel” Lawler, discover why our salt flats, dry lake beds and canyons compelled these iconic risk-takers. Exhibit closes March 7. www.highdesertmuseum.org
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Zachary Alan Photography
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Kachka to Go This is the kind of Russian interference we like. Kachka, the beloved, nationally acclaimed Portland restaurant which celebrates Belarusian cuisine, comes to you as easily as fake news hits Facebook. In addition to takeout and easy DIY meal kits, Kachka freezes and ships its famous savory dumplings, pelmeni, anywhere on our (largely unfrozen) U.S. continent. Think Valentine’s Day dinner by the fire, with shot glasses of icecold, horseradish-and-smidgen-of-Oregon-honey Kachka vodka, a Tolstoy tome and fur cossack hat. Siberia never seemed so romantic or adventurous. May the borscht be with you.
Pollinate Flowers What if the flowers you send (or give yourself) for Valentine’s Day—or to brighten any winter day—lasted for months and let you unleash your inner floral designer? That’s what Pollinate Flowers had in mind when they created their DIY dried wreath flower kits. Ship them across the state or the country and you don’t have to worry about them withering on a doorstep. “The Pollinate Boys,” farmer John Peterson and florist Jeremi Carroll grow and dry all of the blooms on their sustainable flower farm in Dundee, and the wreath base is made from local branches or dried grape vines. www.pollinateflowers.com
Photos: Carly Diaz
www.kachkapdx.com
Mule CBD After witnessing the devastation that wildfires unleashed on the homes, businesses and families of its city, Estacada, Mule Extracts CBD is helping the community rebuild. The company is donating $1 from every sale of their Wild-Land Cherry Mule Packers gummies to the American Red Cross for the local relief effort. The Mule Extracts team said they are “awed and grateful for the men and women who risked their lives to help others by saving families, animals and property.” www.mulecbd.com
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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Musician
The Many Sides of Pete Krebs
Andrea Bohon
notebook
Punk, jazz and “the old, weird America” inform the Portland alt-rocker’s latest album written by Ben Salmon FOR AS LONG as he can remember, Pete Krebs’ musical interests have fallen into two distinctly different buckets. “When I was 12 years old, I would save up my money and go to the record store, and every time I’d buy a punk rock record and an old jazz or blues record. I’d always balance them out,” Krebs said in a recent interview from his Portland home. “So I’ve always had an interest in modern stuff that made me want to jump around and smash things and then also what (the music journalist and cultural critic) Greil Marcus called ‘the old, weird America.’” In 2002, after a dozen or so years that Krebs had been immersed in the Northwest’s alt-rock boom—most notably with the Sub Pop-signed grungepop band Hazel—he decided to “pull the plug” and go in an entirely different direction. Obsessed with the music of early twenty-first century jazz guitarist Django Reinhardt, he moved to the Netherlands and squatted in an old house in Amsterdam, where he would hop on trains, travel into the surrounding countryside and listen to Gypsy guitar players “to try to learn something,” he said. Looking back, Krebs believes he did exactly that, but he doesn’t point to a new scale or a specific instrumental technique. Instead, what he took away from the experience was a better understanding of musical intuition, of connectivity between the players and the material and of “the spiritual side of music,” he said. You can hear all of that coursing through the ten songs on Krebs’ new album, All My Friends Are Ghosts, his first collection of original material in nearly two decades. Recorded with 14
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Listen on Spotify
his band the Gossamer Wings, Ghosts crackles with energy while showcasing Krebs’ ability to incorporate a wide array of styles into his omnivorous brand of roots music. “My True Love is a Beautiful Bird” is a lovely singsong folk waltz. “Blue Horizon” and the title track are two jaunty slices of borderlands country music, à la The Mavericks. “Faraway, Blue” finds Krebs in full twang-pop-rock mode, while “Olive” gives him and his band a chance to flex their mellow jazz chops. Krebs calls Ghosts “a lot of unfinished business,” and by that he means he started most of its songs twenty years ago or more, recently revisiting and completing them, leaning on his experiences to help him fine-tune a lyric here or tighten up a harmony there. So it’s no surprise that the album so seamlessly reflects the man’s multifaceted musical pursuits. “I’ve never made a distinction between punk rock and roots music. To me, the energy is the same, and it’s the same with jazz and the same with classical music,” Krebs said. “It’s not the music. It’s the way it makes you feel, and all that music makes me feel the same way.”
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
Pete Krebs unearths decades of exploration in All My Friends Are Ghosts.
notebook
Bibliophile
Worldliness, Work and Classic Country Author Deborah Reed forges an artistic vision in Manzanita interview by Cathy Carroll What has influenced you most as a writer? Being a lifelong reader certainly influenced my becoming a writer. When I was a child, we moved so often that I attended eleven different elementary schools, and the one constant for me was books filled with stories that made sense of the world and characters who kept me company. There was also the music my father played and sang and the way he pointed me toward the storied songs of classic country musicians— Hank Williams, Merle Haggard, Loretta Lynn. He was always telling me to listen to the lyrics, the stories they were telling. It was a kind of magic, having stories and music come together like that. My writing ended up with a rhythmic quality and I’m certain it stems from that. My novels are kind of like one long, melancholy song. My father recently passed away, and when he was close
DEBORAH REED WAS raised in the Midwest and the South by Southern parents, grandparents and a slew of aunts and uncles. “They were great storytellers and (mostly on my mother’s side) hell-raisers,” she said. Reed waited tables and scraped by, the norm for her working-class family. In her early 20s, she became a single mother while living in Germany, after she’d run off there with a young man. “When the Berlin Wall came down, I got on a train to Berlin the following day with my 4-yearold son so we could watch it all unfold,” she said. “It was one of the most remarkable moments of my life.” After returning to the states, she earned a master’s of fine arts, became an author and eventually, the co-director of a creative writing conference at the Albert-Ludwigs-University in Freiburg, Germany. She has lived in Portland for decades and in Manzanita for six years. Last year she bought the Cloud & Leaf Bookstore in Manzanita, which appears in Pale Morning Light With Violet Swan, the most recent of her seven novels, involving an earthquake that ultimately reveals an artist’s hidden past and a life that would turn out to be her greatest masterpiece.
to the end, I offered to play music for him on my phone. He said he didn’t want to hear any of the sad songs, but he said it with a smile because he knew I would say, “But the all the best songs are the sad songs.” I did say exactly that, and he nodded, and we laughed.
work even after I’m away from my desk. I begin each day by reading the manuscript from the beginning. By the time I reach the part where I left off, I am fully immersed inside the story again, and deeply aware of the place I’m headed.
Describe your writing process. How much of it is affected by the coast? I’ve been living on the coast for about six years now, and before that I lived in Portland for decades, but came to the coast regularly to work on books. Manzanita has been a writing sanctuary for me for many years. It’s a small town of about 650 full-time residents, but it’s a vibrant literary community and very supportive of the arts. I’m a very early riser and like to be well on my way into writing and a second cup of coffee before the sun comes up. I work long days and continue to ponder the
How have you fed yourself creatively during the pandemic? Strangely, I’ve been studying Norwegian and sharpening up my German, both through the Duolingo app, but also by reading novels in the original German. This type of focus on foreign languages has saved my brain. What are you working on now? A novel about an older woman befriending a young girl who is visiting her aunt for the summer. The girl has stopped speaking for unknown reasons but appears normal in every other way.
DEBORAH REED’S TOP BOOK PICKS FOR 2021 FICTION • Shuggie Bain by Douglas Stuart • Hamnet by Maggie O’ Farrell • Writers & Lovers by Lily King • What Are You Even Going Through by Sigrid Nunez • The Summer Book by Tove Jansson
NONFICTION • Caste by Isabel Wilkerson • Having and Being Had by Eula Biss • Becoming Duchess Goldblatt by Anonymous • Late Migrations by Margaret Renkel • On Tyranny by Tim Snyder
Author photo: Scott Simpson
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So why not book a house or hotel with Wi-Fi and work here in Seaside? That way when you’re not working you can kayak the estuary or enjoy coastal brews and beach take-out or celebrate the 100th anniversary of the famous Seaside Promenade with a sunset stroll. Oh, did we mention the Great Prom Centennial Sweepstakes? You might be a winner.
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Cocktail Card
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Some pubs are worth rerouting for.
recipe courtesy of The Suttle Lodge & Boathouse, Sisters
The staff at The Suttle Lodge & Boathouse in Sisters named this cocktail in tribute to U.S. Forest Service firefighters. The drink is inspired by the après-ski concoction of hot cocoa and Chartreuse, a high-proof, herbal liqueur made by monks at the foot of the French Alps. The drink, centered on spicy ancho chile liqueur tempered with a touch of cream, is designed to warm you from the inside. • 1 ounce Ancho Reyes Chile liqueur • ½ ounce green Chartreuse • 2 ounces The Mighty Union’s Easy Chocolate • 4 ounces hot water • 2 ounces Slightly Whipped Cream
written by Beau Eastes WE BEER GEEKS are a lucky lot here in Oregon. Throughout the pandemic, we’ve continued to have easy access to some of the best craft brews in the world. Boneyard Beer in Bend and Barley Brown’s Beer in Baker City started canning last spring, Alesong Brewing & Blending in Eugene and de Garde Brewing in Tillamook will ship their liquid works of art to your front door, and brew festival offerings are now available to take home like Happy Meals. But for the love of Gary Fish, I miss drinking beer at bars and breweries. Here are some of my favorite under-the-radar places in our great state to sip cold ones and pretend I know what Brettanomyces is: 1 THE 3 LEGGED CRANE PUB AND BREWHOUSE
Oakridge
Pour hot water into a mug to preheat it. Once the ceramic is warm, add the ingredients. Stir briefly to incorporate and garnish with a dollop of Slightly Whipped Cream. Garnish with a dusting of freshly grated cinnamon.
The artist formerly known—and beloved—as Brewers Union Local 180, this English-style pub and brewery is well worth the extra few miles if you’re traveling from Eugene to Bend. Yes, these are real cask-conditioned beers and they’re spectacular.
FOR THE MIGHTY UNION’S EASY CHOCOLATE
2 M BAR NW Portland
FOR 4 COCKTAILS • 1 cup cane sugar • 1 cup chocolate powder (we use Valrhona) • 1 cup hot water • ½ teaspoon salt • 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste Stir until fully incorporated. FOR THE SLIGHTLY WHIPPED CREAM • 2 ounces whipping cream Shake in a covered mason jar or cocktail shaker until barely pourable.
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Best Spots for a Cold One
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Whatever’s on tap at M Bar, order it. Best known for its wine selection and intimate seating—the bar has fewer than twenty seats inside—M Bar typically has just two beers on draft, but they’re almost always an amazing find. 3 BEND BREWING COMPANY Bend Central Oregon is flush with breweries that boast primo outdoor spaces— Crux, Goodlife, McMenamins Old St. Francis School—but none cozy up next to Mirror Pond in downtown Bend like the BBC. Lawn games, fire pits, freerange kids—it’s all part of the vastly
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
improved outdoor experience BBC added in 2017. 4 YACHATS BREWING Yachats Part brewery, part farmstore, all awesome. Located in an old bank, Yachats Brewing manages to encompass everything eclectic and random you love about the Oregon Coast into one of the best culinary and beer experiences you’ll have in the state. Salmon chowder, housemade kimchi and sauerkraut, and beers like Matsutake Murrelet Stout will have you rerouting your next coast trip through Yachats. 5 MCKENZIE GENERAL STORE McKenzie Bridge The perfect pit stop after riding the McKenzie River Trail, hiking to Blue Pool, or if you just get a little thirsty between Sisters and Springfield. The beers always taste a little better after an adventure in the Willamette National Forest, especially in the gorgeous outdoor dining space created by the three families who resurrected the McKenzie General Store in 2016.
Photos, clockwise from left: Yachats Brewing, Diego Diaz/M Bar, Bend Brewing Company
Prescribed Burn
Beerlandia
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610 SE MORRISON ST PORTLAND www.poppizza.co
PARK & MAIN
written by Jen Stevenson DARK WINTER NIGHTS are ideal for embarking on culinary adventures to foreign lands, even when you don’t technically leave the kitchen. If a taste of Tokyo is the stuff your travel-parched dreams are made of, SE Portland-based Fulamingo has all the ingredients for a yuzu and shoyu-spiced winter’s night feast. A joint venture by first-generation Japanese-American Kana Hinohara Hanson and husband Erik Hanson—former co-owners of Giraffe, the now-shuttered Japanese deli and market tucked inside the inner Southeast’s joyfully eclectic Cargo market—Fulamingo picks up where Giraffe left off, curating a polished collection of Japanese grocery goods, prepared foods and sakes rendered nearly irresistible by the Hansons’ spellbinding tasting notes. But instead of browsing in person, shoppers now browse online, and orders can be picked up in person or delivered locally (shipping is also in the works, happy news for any Bend or Baker City resident with a serious Calbee honey butter potato chip craving). As you fill your online cart with smoked soy sauce, yuzu salt, Kewpie mayonnaise, bonito flakes, sweet potato vinegar, ginger crackers, matcha green tea cream-dipped Pocky sticks, and packets of shichimi togarashi that double as postcards so beautiful they may end up framed, take a moment to read the meticulous notes on each product. You may find a personal anecdote about Kana’s aunt, an explanation of a spice mix’s provenance, a movie recommendation, an inside joke, or a helpful note on how to best put your new pantry treasure to work. For those who are more in favor of a ready-to-eat snack or supper, see the shop’s prepared foods selection, where neatly pleated dumplings rub dimples with pork katsu sandwiches and rich Japanese curry. If you never had the chance to sink your teeth into Giraffe’s famed egg sandwich, it’s back—dark gold-yolked, jammy egg halves and savory egg salad, squished just-so between two soft, puffy slices of milk bread. Enjoy one at home with a bottle of pomegranate drinking vinegar or vividly illustrated sake “juice” box and feel spirited straight away to Japan. www.fulamingo.com
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Joining Portland’s growing ranks of Detroit-style pizza purveyors, Nuvrei baker-owner Marius Pop’s new Central Eastside shop is wowing fans old and new with his take on thick-crust pies topped with a holy trinity of cheddar, mozzarella and Wisconsin brick cheese. Meat lovers, try the spicy Italian sausage, red onion and basil pie with a drizzle of Mike’s Hot Honey. Vegetarians, get your greens fix with the kale, mushroom confit and white parmesan sauce pie, and gluten-freesters, rejoice—all pies are available on a delightfully crisp-crusted GF dough. For dessert, keep the party going with Pop’s thick, chewy, fresh-baked chocolate chip cookie squares.
2021
Fair weather or foul, ice cream and pizza is a winning combination, and this wine country newcomer brings the classic combo to a grateful downtown Carlton. Run by Bend-born husband-wife duo Dustin and Maryfrances Wyant, the cozy brick-walled pizzeria and marketplace features thin-crust, wood-fired pies with a refined twist that reflects Dustin’s many years in high-end hospitality. Don’t miss the roasted pear and prosciutto with gorgonzola cheese, herbed olive oil with a splash of saba vinegar finish. Speaking of sweet endings, chase dinner with a pint of homemade maple bacon ice cream, made with candied Carlton Farms applewoodsmoked bacon, or the boozy bourbon butter pecan praline ice cream, spiked with local Bull Run Bourbon Whiskey. 211 W MAIN ST CARLTON www.parkandmaincarlton.com
CLYDE’S CORNER Fortuitously spared the brunt of last fall’s catastrophic Alameda fire which devastated the small Southern Oregon town of Phoenix and neighboring Talent, Janai and Rafael Gonzales’ plucky pizzeria—open for only a few weeks before the blaze blasted through—cleaned up, reopened and immediately started raising both community spirits via their excellent pies, and funds for fire victims and first responders via merch, coffee, and gift card sales. Go for the good vibes and people, stay for the good food, especially the decadent prosciutto pie with Mama Lil’s peppers, spicy arugula, preserved lemons and truffle oil. Before you order, check the weekly special pie, it’s likely to capture your fancy. For dessert, a homemade ice cream sandwich or affogato hits the spot, and don’t forget to pet one or all of the handsome pizzeria pups. For extra credit, see if you can spot the namesake in this eatery’s logo. 4495 S PACIFIC HWY PHOENIX www.clydescornerphoenix.com
food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
EATING LIGHT AND FRESH You’ll hardly notice you’re keeping your New Years’ resolutions at chef-owner Spencer Ivankoe’s bright, flora and fauna-filled SE Portland cafe, especially when presented with the gallery-worthy watermelon radish and microgreens-topped avocado toast, goat cheese and golden-beet breakfast sandwich, or Green Eggs Bowl, a delicious mishmash of soft scrambled eggs, sesame seed-crusted avocado, edamame, kale, roasted potatoes and housemade salsa verde. If you never made any resolutions in the first place, head straight for the chorizo chilaquiles or bananas Foster French toast, soaked in whipped honeycomb butter and rum caramel. 4437 SE CESAR E. CHAVEZ BLVD. PORTLAND www.caferowan.com
Montelupo
CAFE ROWAN
Dining
Fettuccine with clams, prawns, garlic, white wine and parsley from Portland’s Montelupo Italian Market.
Montelupo Italian Market written by Jen Stevenson
On a quiet side street, this darling white-bricked downtown Coos Bay cafe and smoothie shop’s menu woos even the staunchest of junk foodies, with warm bowls of steel-cut oats piled with bananas, creamy tahini, cashews and pepitas. You’ll find peanut butter waffles, too.
THIS VALENTINE’S DATE NIGHT, you may not be able to crowd into a cozy corner table at your favorite celebratory Portland hotspot, but you can sip prosecco and slurp truffle-buttered tajarin at this new Italian market on NE Portland’s Restaurant Row. Taking over the corner of 28th Avenue formerly occupied by Poison’s Rainbow bar and Ranch Pizza, restaurateur Adam Berger’s (24th & Meatballs, Ten 01, Tabla) latest venture delivers on the promise of “fresh goods and stiff drinks” etched on its front windows, and then some. Inside, find all the makings of a romantic at-home pasta night, from fresh pasta by the pound and half pound (handy if the only other guest at your Valentine’s supper is a full-bodied Barolo), jars of slow-simmered tomato butter sauce and briny olive-specked puttanesca sauce, velvety burrata balls, homemade truffle butter, slabs of hazelnut honey nougat, loaves of chewy pull-apart bread by Dos Hermanos bakery in North Portland, and for your after-dinner affogato, canisters of Illy coffee. If you fall strictly in the “can’t boil water” kitchen camp, order your pastas pre-assembled. Perhaps the fresh pappardelle swirled with milk-braised pork and golden raisins, or a tempting tangle of al dente fettuccine topped with pink prawns and clams? Start with spicy radicchio tossed in black pepper parmesan dressing and sprinkled with crispy garlic breadcrumbs, or the delicate arugula and shaved fennel with curls of ricotta salata, and for dessert, melt-in-your-mouth tiramisu layered with espresso-soaked ladyfingers and Marsala mousse, or tiny golden towers of olive oil cake crowned with lemon buttercream and amarena cherries. The wine shelves are heavy with easy-drinking lambruscos, Barbarescos, and Chianti classicos, with a few Oregon pinot noirs sprinkled in. Beer lovers, grab a pack of Double Mountain IPA or Occidental Kölsch. Should you need to break that seemingly endless streak of nights spent at home, drink wine and reminisce about Italy in a tent instead, inside the market’s heated and covered canopy set up on Flanders Street, where rows of sturdy picnic tables and potted plants nest under sparkling strings of twinkle lights. It may not be as opulent or orchestrated as Valentine’s Days past, but with excellent company and another serving of Nutella panna cotta, it’ll do just fine.
273 CURTIS AVE COOS BAY www.nosterkitchen.com
344 NE 28TH AVE PORTLAND www.montelupo.co
LOVELY Living up to its name, husband-wife duo Josh Matthews and Sarah Adler’s downtown Springfield cafe is a sweet, sunlit space that’ll have you dreaming of brighter spring days, while keeping any wayward resolutions on the straight and narrow with invigorating juice blends, oat milk-drizzled quinoa bowls sprinkled with fresh berries and chia seeds, nourishing vegetable soups and slow-simmered bone broths, and lime and chile-kissed avocado toast piled with rosy-skinned beetpickled eggs and puckery housemade pickles. No need to pass on dessert; the house take on Nutella is made with Marcona almonds and coconut, and spread over sweet gluten-free toast. 349 MAIN ST SPRINGFIELD www.lovelyspringfield.com
POKE ROW If you’ve been flirting with pescatarianism, this cheery build-a-bowl poke bar in Bend’s Northwest Crossing neighborhood will help you commit. Start with a rice or mixed greens base, add fresh spicy tuna, salmon, shrimp, chicken or tofu, then mix and match to your heart’s content from more than two dozen add-ins, sauces and toppings. If decision fatigue sets in, just get the signature bowl—tuna, salmon and shrimp with fresh mango, avocado, spicy yuzu sauce, crispy noodles, and toasted seaweed. For dessert (you earned it), a Hawaiian shave ice. 2735 NW CROSSING DR. BEND www.pokerow.com
NOSTER KITCHEN
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farm to table
David Nevala
Kelly and Peter Mahaffy of River Bend Jerseys dairy farm near Coos Bay and their children, from left, Ada, Sienna and Kaia.
Farm to Table
Got Health? One farmer embraces heritage methods—and robots—for organic milk goodness written by Sophia McDonald
YOU ARE what you eat. That’s true for people, but it’s also true throughout the food chain. For example, a cow that subsists on a diet lower in nutrients will produce milk with fewer nutrients. A cow that eats healthy green grass, weeds and herbs will create a milk with more healthy fats and vitamins for humans to consume. That’s what drives Pete Mahaffy of River Bend Jerseys organic dairy farm near Coos Bay. “I just want to produce as good a dairy product as I can,” he said. “What the consumer is looking for is a nutrient-dense food and I’m all for it.” Mahaffy grew up in a dairy farming family. His grandfather milked cows on the farm starting in 1926. Mahaffy’s father took over from him but got out of the dairy business in 1994 because he couldn’t find a way to make it sustainable. The prices for milk were too low. Freight costs from rural Coos Bay were too high. 22 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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The workload was crushing. Industry standards recommend that cows be milked every twelve hours to produce at maximum levels, which means there’s never a day or even a morning off. After watching his dad struggle, Mahaffy had no intention of becoming a dairyman. He studied horticulture and animal science at Oregon State University, thinking he might grow tree fruit or another food crop. Then he took a job with Jon Bansen with Double J Jerseys in Monmouth, who sold his milk to the
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farm to table
Sienna Mahaffy visits the cows at River Bend Jerseys dairy farm near Coos Bay.
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farm to table
Organic Valley coop. The higher prices Bansen received for organic milk made it possible for him to feed his cows grass and other forage rather than grains. That model made sense to Mahaffy. One of the competitive advantages that has traditionally made Coos Bay a center for dairy cows is the mild climate, which allows cows to be on pasture more often than not. Without the need to grow and harvest a lot of hay and other crops, Coos Bay producers have lower costs. With help from Organic Valley and some other innovations, Mahaffy has returned the 200-acre farm to its roots. To ensure his grass stays healthy, Mahaffy fertilizes in part with waste from the seafood industry. The shells and guts from Dungeness crab, shrimp and fish are high in elements like calcium and nitrogen, which bring the pH of the soil closer to neutral and make the grass sweeter, healthier and more abundant. This unconventional approach allows Mahaffy to do more to support the local economy. “It’s been a good experience knowing I’m helping out the fishery guys, because if they don’t have a place for their end product, they’re not in business,” he said. “It’s somewhat challenging to get people to take it because it can have aromas that neighbors don’t appreciate. Fortunately, my neighbors are far and few between.”
To help manage his 140 Jersey cows, Mahaffy purchased robots that do some of the milking. When a cow has finished grazing in one pasture and is ready to move to the next, she is routed through a “commitment pen” on the side of the barn. There, the robots attach to the udder and harvest the milk. The machines run twenty-four hours a day, which means milking can happen whenever the cow is ready, not the owner. The robots also help with another important job, which is monitoring the health of each animal. When Mahaffy milks, he checks each cow to see if she is limping, has lower production or shows other signs of injury or illness. The robots can also track the cow’s health and notify the farmer when a member of the herd needs a closer examination—sometimes before a problem becomes apparent to the naked eye. Mahaffy was one of the first Coos County farmers to sell to Organic Valley. Now, all but one of the local dairies partner with the company. “I would say without much hesitation that if it wasn’t for Organic Valley, none of us would be in business,” he said. “I really appreciate the consumer that wants to spend the extra money to support what I do,” he adds. “Consumers have to vote with their dollar. If they didn’t vote to keep me in business, I wouldn’t be here.”
David Nevala
MILKING IT AT EVERY MEAL Milk is a versatile ingredient that can be found in a range of dishes or paired with them. For breakfast, milk is the perfect accompaniment to bananas Foster French toast, a decadent creation of Spencer Ivankoe at Portland’s Café Rowan. He tops the fried bread with bananas, homemade salted caramel, toasted walnuts and honeycomb butter. For lunch, use milk to form the creamy base of clam chowder. Finish it with a dollop of crème fraîche and chopped chives as is done at Flying Fish Company in Portland. At MÄS in Ashland, Chef Josh Dorcak recommends combining milk with gelatin to make a rich foam. “This is great served with stewed berries or fresh fruits,” he said. “Also, if you infuse the milk with herbs like basil or mint, it’s a nice way to add a surprise flavor.” See Oregon Recipes, pg. 26
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Oregon Recipes
Clam Chowder
Flying Fish Company / PORTLAND
Creamy and Dreamy Bananas Foster French Toast Cafe Rowan / PORTLAND Spencer Ivankoe SERVES 4 FOR EGG WASH • 4 eggs • ½ cup half & half • 1 cup whole milk • 3 teaspoons vanilla extract • ½ tablespoon ground cinnamon • Pinch sea salt FOR JACOBSEN SEA SALT AND CARAMEL SAUCE • 1 cup white granulated sugar • ¼ cup water • ½ cup heavy cream • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed • 1 tablespoon flaky sea salt, preferably Jacobsen’s FOR BREAD • 1 loaf unsliced Grand Central Bakery brioche FOR GARNISHES • 2 cups walnuts • 4 medium-sized ripe bananas • 1 cup real organic maple syrup • 1 spoonful raw honeycomb • 6 tablespoons butter FOR EGG WASH Put all ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisk until everything is incorporated. FOR JACOBSEN SEA SALT AND CARAMEL SAUCE In a small sauce pot, combine the sugar and water. Turn on medium heat and stir gently until sugar is completely dissolved. Increase to medium-high heat and don’t touch for 10 to 12 minutes. When the sauce takes on an amber color, remove it from the heat and slowly whisk in heavy cream. Be careful, as the cream will bubble for a few
seconds. Place the pot back on the stove and turn heat on low. Slowly add in 4 tablespoons of butter and whisk until smooth. Add sea salt to finish and reserve in a warm place. FOR BREAD Slice eight pieces 1½ inches thick. Soak 2 pieces at a time for 6 seconds per side in the egg wash. Heat a saute pan over medium to high heat. Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in the pan. Remove the brioche from the egg wash, then place two slices of brioche into the saute pan for 3 minutes per side, or until golden. Place on a plate and cover gently with foil and cook the other 6 pieces the same way. FOR GARNISHES Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toast walnuts for 5 to 7 minutes, then let cool for at least 15 minutes. Put into a plastic bag and gently crush walnuts into pieces. Peel bananas and slice thin. Slice them last so they don’t brown before eating. Put one banana on each French toast plate. Warm up maple syrup and reserve until you are done cooking your toast. Whip 6 tablespoons of room temperature butter with 3 tablespoons raw honeycomb. TO SERVE Place 2 pieces of brioche French toast on each plate, then add slices of banana on the top and the sides of the bread. Drizzle warm maple syrup and salted caramel sauce on top, then crumble toasted walnuts on the brioche. To finish, add a spoon of honeycomb and butter on top.
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SERVES 10 • 2 cups white onion, chopped • ¾ cup celery, chopped • 10 cups Yukon Gold potatoes, medium diced and divided into two • 16 ounces clam juice • ½ gallon whole milk • ¼ gallon heavy cream • 3 bay leaves • 1 teaspoon dried thyme • 1 pound bacon, sliced ½-inch thick • 5 dashes Tabasco sauce • ⅓ cup butter, cubed • ⅓ cup potato flour • 2 pounds cooked clams Sweat the veggies and deglaze with clam juice. Add bay leaves and thyme, as well as Tabasco and half of the potatoes, then bring the heat up until potatoes start to soften. On a sheet tray, cook bacon until crispy. Drain fat, then set aside. Meanwhile, add all of the dairy and the other half of the potatoes to another pot. Heat until these potatoes are completely softened. Make a blonde roux with butter and potato flour. Add roux to cream and use an immersion blender to blend mixture until thick and completely smooth. Mix two pots together, stir until mixed, cool properly and add 2 pounds of cooked clams. Add cooked bacon. Reheat slowly on the stove, then finish with a dollop of creme fraiche and freshly chopped chives. Season with salt and pepper.
Milk Foam
MÄS / ASHLAND • 1½ cups whole milk • ⅓ cup sugar • 2 sheets gelatin • 2 teaspoons xanthan gum Bloom gelatin in cold water and squeeze out excess water. Add gelatin to warmed milk, stirring to dissolve. Add milk to a blender and on low speed, stir in xanthan gum and add sugar. Strain the mixture, then pour into an ISI canister. Charge the canister with three nitro cartridges. Shake well and allow to cool in refrigerator until you need it. Milk foam is great served on stewed berries and fresh fruits. You can also infuse the milk with herbs such as basil or mint.
Flying Fish Company’s Clam Chowder.
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farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Homemade Ricotta
The Milky Way
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane MILK IS ONE of the most important foods on our planet. As mammals, mother’s milk has been our first food since the human species began a few million years ago. After we brainy Homo sapiens began raising sheep, goats and cattle for meat and skins, we discovered that the milk from these animals was nutritious and tasty. This treasured staple became a metaphor for the loftiest ideal—the land of milk and honey described the promised land. Today, cow’s milk reigns supreme over that of goats and sheep. Due to quantity, production and shipping, it’s the most consumed of all. For any milk to meet U.S. Department of Agriculture standards, it must be pasteurized. This involves heating it long enough to destroy harmful organisms, but it also kills bacteria that’s beneficial to humans. Pasteurizing gives milk a longer shelf life and allows it to retain its quality during shipping, but it also affects flavor. I tasted some fresh, raw cow’s milk recently at Windy Acres Dairy in Prineville. Its grassy deliciousness dealt a swift, hoofed kick to the flavor profile of the pasteurized variety. Just a few ounces of the ice-cold, snowwhite tonic made me feel more alive—strong as a bull. I’m not alone. Minutes after imbibing this vitality tonic, other raw-milk lovers stopped by the farm to pick up their weekly gallons of the stuff through the farm’s “herd share” subscription program. If buying milk directly from the farm rather than the grocery store raises questions for you, drink in the facts about raw milk and the Oregon farms that offer it at www. realmilk.com. Whether you try it or not, use my recipe to make fresh ricotta with raw or pasteurized milk from goats, sheep or cows. It’s worth it. Savor it on toasted bread with a bit of good olive oil and fresh herbs at any time of year.
• ½ gallon whole milk, raw or pasteurized, but not ultra-pasteurized • Pinch kosher salt • 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice Place milk in a large pot. While heating over medium heat, stir in salt. Continue heating the milk until it reaches 185 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Add lemon juice and stir briefly to incorporate. The curds should begin forming almost immediately. Stop stirring as soon as they have formed throughout the pot. Without stirring, continue to heat curdled-milk mixture on low heat at 185 degrees for 20 minutes. (Some temperature fluctuation is fine. It may drop to about 175 degrees or rise to 190 degrees. Try to keep it in that range for the full 20 minutes. Do not let it get too hot.) Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth. (A strainer alone will not catch all of the precious curd.) Using a slotted spoon, gently transfer curds to the lined strainer. Drain off excess liquid. For dry ricotta, drain it longer. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days, though it is most delicious when fresh.
Today, cow’s milk reigns supreme over that of goats and sheep. Due to quantity, production and shipping, it’s the most consumed of all. 28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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farm to table Savor ricotta on toasted bread with olive oil and fresh herbs.
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home + design
Cedar shingles and siding offer classic good looks and durability.
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home + design
Coastal Craft
A modern twist on a classic Oregon beach house makes for a storied forever home
Darius Kuzmickas/KuDa Photography
written by Melissa Dalton
FOR MARK AND LAURIE ENGBERG, building a house on the Oregon Coast was the best possible outcome from an unexpected encounter with a dog boarder. About nine years ago, the couple adopted a rescue dog and named her Vandy, short for van der Rohe, the last name of the pioneering modernist architect. Upon returning from a trip, Mark and Laurie went to gather Vandy from the boarder, who kindly told them the pup couldn’t be invited back due to her intense separation anxiety. It’s true that Vandy is quite vocal around new people—on a recent visit to the Engbergs’ home, Mark commented, “She’ll miss you when you’re gone, even though you just met.” So, Mark and Laurie looked for vacation spots closer to their Portland home and booked a rental in Arch Cape. Once described as “a remote hamlet at the end of a wagon road from Seaside,” and with a current population just over 200, Arch Cape has retained that quiet aura, despite being just off Highway 101 between Cannon Beach and Manzanita. The beach there is a picture-perfect stretch of the Oregon coastline, complete with stormy Pacific, windswept trees, and rock formations jutting into the waves. “We just fell in love with it here,” Laurie said. “Honestly, we almost immediately started looking at real estate.” Since Mark is an architect and founding principle of the Portland-based COLAB Architecture + Urban Design, it made sense to build a base of their own. The property search was tight, with oceanfront prices skewing out of range. “Basically, people are buying what amounts to a teardown for north of $750,000,” Mark said. Instead, they found an empty site in a development called Castle Rock Estates, just a five-minute walk from the beach via a tunnel under the highway. Mark took inspiration from the surrounding environs for the design. “It’s got some definite modern moves, but it’s a modern version of a classic Oregon Coast house,” Mark said. The house’s cedar shingles and siding look right at home against the backdrop of the coastal forest, which lines one side of the Engberg lot. Copper flashing, mellowed a reddish-purple, outlines certain windows, while the light fixtures are bronze. The exterior material palette wasn’t chosen just for classic good looks, but the proven ability to hold up to the extremes of coastal weather. “Down here at the coast, being this close to the water, you really have to think about all the erosion that happens to a building,” Mark said. As for the form, the first clue that this is not a typical beach house is an exaggerated eave, some 12 feet deep, cantilevered to provide generous cover from the rain. The whole plan is then arranged in a U surrounding an exterior courtyard, an idea Mark described as “slicing a section out like JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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Darius Kuzmickas/KuDa Photography
home + design
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A courtyard that calls for sipping wine or a Manhattan. A triptych of paintings of Gorge waterfalls and a chandelier composed of handblown glass orbs. Abundant windows bring in light and views. The front door is salvaged yellow Alaskan cedar.
a piece of cake” in order to create the protected outdoor room. When the sun’s out, the doors to the adjacent dining room are slid open, and the courtyard calls for a Manhattan in front of the fire to watch the sun set over the ocean. On days with more bluster, the doors may be closed, but there’s still many spots inside to enjoy the views. “When we first saw the site, we were thinking the view to the ocean was everything, but this is pretty amazing,” Mark said, gesturing to a bank of windows that line the kitchen counter and frame the adjacent forest, the light and shadows playing across ferns and moss-covered trees trunks. “It’s almost like one giant landscape painting.” The added benefit of the central courtyard is that it ushers more natural light into the house, which was a challenge with the trees so thick on one side. Then, a bevy of windows brings in views galore, from the playful “porthole” at the fireplace to the windows wrapping the elevated platform beds in their grand-nieces’ nook upstairs. “When you take the middle out of the house and put in as many openings as possible, the building can get a little wobbly structurally, especially in a seismic zone,” Mark said. To address that, the massive, concrete double-sided fireplace functions as a shear wall to provide all the necessary structural support. The board-formed finish in the concrete is a textured counterpoint to the warm black walnut cabinetry, oak and slate tile floors, and raw steel accents inside. The couple then layered in pieces, many from friends and colleagues, that speak to their 32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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love of the arts—Laurie is a literature professor at Portland Community College and Mark previously served on the board at the Oregon College of Art and Craft. The front door is a block of salvaged yellow Alaskan cedar carved by Karl Burkheimer, while the rain chain was fashioned by sculpture artist Christine Clark, who hand-bent every link. A chandelier composed of handblown glass orbs floats over the dining table—“Everyone thinks it looks like jellyfish,” Mark said—while nearby hangs a triptych of paintings of Gorge waterfalls by Richard Hoyen. “The first thing I said was, ‘We don’t want a painting of Haystack Rock, because the real thing is right over there,’” Mark said. Life in the new home has come with ongoing discoveries, such as glimpsing whales migrating on the horizon in the summer. In June and July, when the sun sets, a brilliant red light spreads across the forest for five to ten minutes. And while many typical beach houses are oriented toward the beach and turned away from the street, the courtyard has become Mark and Laurie’s front porch, from which they wave to neighbors. Since wrapping up the project with the contractor, Caruana Inc., in 2018, and much to Vandy’s delight, Mark and Laurie spend as much time as possible at their Arch Cape home, which will be where they retire in the future. For now, they can work remotely, or “putter,” no matter the season. “We’re homebodies. I’m perfectly happy sitting and reading a book in front of the fire,” Laurie said. “We just hang out here the whole time,” Mark added. “It’s really our refuge.”
Visit our website to make an appointment or shop online 717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com
Love endures You can now shop online, or book an appointment to visit for fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work. We also buy.
traditionally inspired, american made A dramatic slant on a centuries old tradition. Pioneer Millworks’ burnt wood Shou Sugi Ban siding and paneling can be as unique as the space you are designing or the home you are building. Charred wood, preserving the deep grains and weathered texture, brushed to accentuate the hidden beauty. Call our Portland Studio at 503-719-4800, or Allison in Bend at 971-471-8176. Samples and great prices are available.
Portland Studio & McMinnville Shop pioneermillworks.com
livin the bean... since 1998 thehumanbean.com
Darius Kuzmickas/KuDa Photography
home + design
A rain chain fashioned by sculpture artist Christine Clark, who hand-bent every link.
DIY: Hang a Rain Chain RAIN CHAINS HAVE BEEN a mainstay in Japanese culture for centuries, serving to collect rainwater for practical use. They make sense in the rainy Northwest for a number of reasons. Rain chains add personalized décor to the exterior of a house and garden, as well as the soothing sound of trickling water. They’re also practical; slowing down the water’s rush averts soil erosion and prevents gushing runoff from overwhelming the municipal storm system. LOCATE Choose a location where you’ll be able to see and appreciate the rain chain, and make sure the water drains away from the house and foundation. Consider having a receptacle for the drained water, such as a rain barrel, a trail of river rocks that lead to a garden, or a container of some sort, which could produce a gurgling fountain effect. INSTALL Downspouts funnel rain water off the roof and away from the foundation into a proper drainage source, so replacing a downspout with a rain chain is an option. Or, drill a hole in the gutter to install a downspout outlet in 34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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the preferred spot, so the water can flow from the gutter down the links in the chain. To hang the chain from the gutter, pop in a bracket—either a strip of metal bent into a V-shape, or buy a gutter clip to do the job. DESIGN There are a range of styles of rain chains, which typically include a straightforward run of links, or a combination of links and decorative cups. You might make it yourself, using plumber’s chain or “S” hooks and cups of your fancy, or purchase a kit. To ensure durability from the constant exposure to water, opt for metal, such as aluminum, brass, or solid copper, keeping in mind that uncoated metal will gain a patina over time.
Cool Coast Products These makers bring the beach to you
No one wants to stand up from watching a glorious sunset over the ocean only to realize they have a damp rear end from wet sand. Enter Kerry Cotter, founder of Belmont Blanket. Cotter bought an industrial sewing machine and 50 yards of performance fabric in 2016, and has since developed the Adventure Blanket, an all-purpose cover that’s waterproof, washable and made in Portland. We’re partial to the double-layer Legacy blanket, which combines iconic Pendleton patterns on one side with Cotter’s proprietary AdventureTek fabric on the other. www.belmontblanket.com
Nehalem artist Justin Bailie creates large-scale engineer prints using his photographs, many depicting gorgeous and iconic coastal moments. The photos are reproduced by an Oregon-based printer on heavy-duty architectural paper or archival canvas for a textural feel, and mounted to reclaimed wood hangers, which Bailie makes by hand. www.wildcoastgoods.com
Oregon myrtlewood is a native hardwood, often with a striking grain, which has been used to craft decorative and utilitarian pieces since the early 1900s. In 1985, the Mast family opened the Myrtlewood Gallery in Reedsport to showcase the creativity of Oregon artisans working with the wood. Check out pieces by Jason and Jon Mast, the founders’ sons, or pick up a “blank” if you’re a woodturner. www.myrtlewoodgallery.com
When visiting isn’t possible, try lighting a Sea Salt Surf candle instead, a popular option from Broken Top Candle Company, based in Bend. Their hand-poured products are gluten-free, paraben-free, phthalatefree, and vegan—so you can breathe in those coastal vibes easily. www.brokentopcandleco.com
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mind + body
“Apps are great, but they also have limitations. They can introduce people to the practice of meditation and mindfulness, but there’s something they aren’t able to provide: community.” — Rena Satre Meloy, Pause Meditation co-founder
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mind + body
Soothing Silence, Community Connection Portland’s Pause Studio helps ease anxiety and stress through meditation and virtual community-building written by Eric Flowers
Pause livestream classes offer human connection.
RYAN KENNY AND RENA SATRE MELOY’S dream of opening a mindfulness practice was some seven years in the making. It began on a beach in Nicaragua in 2013 when the couple met and discovered a mutual passion for meditation. It continued with a shared journey toward self-discovery that led them to Portland where, at one point, they set up pop-up classes in local parks, lugging meditation cushions in duffel bags from location to location. Eventually, they migrated indoors, forging partnerships with art galleries and any other space where they could grow their practice. Over the next three years, they expanded their offerings and their audience, taking up residence within 220 Studio, which offers yoga. In the fall of 2019, they realized their dream of opening an independent practice in Portland’s Old Town Chinatown district, with 3,000-square-foot studio above the Dan and Louis Oyster Bar near Tom McCall Waterfront Park. The space would allow them to add classes, courses, corporate workshops and private sessions designed to help people escape, even temporarily, the harried pace of modern life and its distractions. That was the plan at least. Within a few months, a new reality set in. By mid-March, the governor’s office had begun ordering the closure of bars and restaurants, followed by gyms and studios such as Pause to slow the spread of Covid-19. It was a significant setback for the nascent business. But there was a small, positive side, too. The pandemic had an unforeseen consequence. Stressed by the confinement of selfquarantine, as well as concerns about economic security and health, people began turning to meditation in droves. The interest kept up through the year. “People are recognizing how important it is for them to take care of their mental health right now,” Kenny said. Kenny and Meloy pivoted quickly to meet demand, using the same tools that companies and businesses were using to connect employees, namely the online meeting platform Zoom. “Many of our Portland-based community members have shared Pause with their family and friends nationally and even internationally. We had no idea the virtual studio would be as vibrant as it is, and the ability to reach and connect with folks on a much wider scale has been a huge silver lining,” Kenny said.
APPS AND MEDITATION The popularity of meditation and mindfulness has led to an explosion in the popularity of subscription smartphone apps like Calm and Headspace, which have been among the most downloaded apps on the iPhone App Store and Google Play. Calm saw another boost during the presidential election. It sponsored CNN’s live election updates, wryly juxtaposing Calm’s breezy logo with CNN’s blaring red “Update” banner during breathless coverage of the anxiety-inducing race. “Apps are great, but they also have limitations,” Meloy said. “They can introduce people to the practice of meditation and mindfulness, but there’s something they aren’t able to provide: community. Even in this era of virtual meetings and online gatherings, studios like Pause are engaging people in shared spaces.” This sense of common place and space is an important element of learning and practicing meditation. It’s also an experience that many are craving at a time when they’ve lost connections to friends, family and coworkers. Meloy, for example, opened a recent class greeting participants by name and told them how good it was to see their faces, even over an internet feed. After the session, a few stuck around to talk about the weather and plans for the holidays. “Apps are great tools, but we believe the heart of this practice lies in community,” Meloy said. “It has for thousands of years. Community is the special sauce that makes it all come together. Especially during times of isolation like we’re in right now, deepening your practice with education, conversation, and real, live human connection is crucial.”
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artist in residence
Artist in Residence
Blanketed in Connectedness A leading Indigenous contemporary artist uses ordinary objects and collaboration to foster understanding written by Cathy Carroll
MARIE WATT is in her studio, elbow-deep in about 300 bandanas sent to her from people around the state and beyond. Each person who sent one had embroidered it with a word or image. Watt, who lives in Portland, will incorporate these hand-sewn pieces into a large-scale sculpture for the exhibition “Each/Other,” exploring the collective process of creation and opening at the Denver Art Museum on May 23. Working with Cannupa Hanska Luger, a New Mexico-based multi-disciplinary artist, the focus of these two prominent Indigenous contemporary artists is on collaborating with each other, the bandana-embellishing participants and beyond.
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Kevin McConnell
Marie Watt and “Antipodes,” created using vintage Venetian glass beads, thread, cotton twill tape and industrial felt. Her primary materials are often everyday objects that can carry extraordinary histories of use.
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artist in residence
For Watt, a citizen of the Seneca Nation with German-Scots ancestry, the project is the latest in a body of work which draws from history, biography and Indigenous teachings. She believes that collaboration sparks conversations, which might create understanding and connectedness to place, to one another and to the universe. “During the pandemic, bandanas work as a face mask, but they have long been used to conceal or protect one’s face,” she said. They’ve been neckerchiefs and handkerchiefs, but now her call is for contributors to use them for expression. “This is an opportunity to share something about how you feel in this moment,” said Watt. The artists will stitch each bandana onto a cord that will create a pelt of sorts for a mother wolf-like sculpture about 10 feet tall and 12 feet long. This is a recurrent theme for Watt. For a 2018 exhibit, “Companion Species: Underbelly,” her sculpture of a reclining wolf, in laminated cedar, weighed in at 3,800-pounds. (The gallery owners appreciated the woody aroma, but during the spring that Watt spent carving her, the olfactory overload caused her to lose her ability to smell cedar.) Watt explained the wolf ’s role in her latest exhibit. “This animal stands in for our relationships with animals and the natural world … symbiotic and generative,” said Watt. “I’ve been thinking a lot about what the world would look like if we considered ourselves companion species, and this sculpture and its participatory element is a way of activating a conversation about our relatedness. The work is also aimed at exploring whether acts of creative collaboration can help heal broken bonds with the environment and with each other—particularly relevant today.”
Narratives around place and identity influence the work of this artist. Growing up in Seattle, she did arts and crafts at Daybreak Star Indian Cultural Center and the Burke Museum, but didn’t have her sights set on becoming an artist. Her mother, an Indian education specialist for the Lake Washington School District in the Seattle suburbs, also worked on state legislation in the Indian education curriculum and policy. “As a teen, I begrudgingly went to a lot of her programs, story circle programs,” Watt said. “But now I can’t separate what I do from this childhood experience, which is instructive to me as a parent.” One of her mother’s favorite sayings may have planted a seed for Watt’s interest in collaborative art: “Circles expand and contract to include everyone. Everyone’s voice is equal in a circle.” Watt came to Oregon as a young adult, to attend Willamette University in Salem, graduating in 1990 with a degree in speech communications and art. She went on to a two-year program in museum studies at the Institute of American Indian Arts in Santa Fe, New Mexico, the first time that she lived in a place with a significant Indigenous population. From there, she went 40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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Kevin McConnell
The Artist’s Journey
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Watt art pieces “Witness,” “Butterfly” and “Untitled (Dream Catcher)” at SITE Santa Fe. “Blanket Stories: Confluence, Heirloom, and Tenth Mountain Division” at Denver Art Museum. “Companion Species (Underbelly)” and a section of “Companion Species: Assembly (Guardian Tree).” Watt’s collaborative art focuses not on the noun art, but the verb form, or act of creating.
to Yale University School of Art in New Haven, Connecticut to pursue a master’s of fine art degree in painting and printmaking. “I experienced a culture shock,” she said. “I struggled to locate an Indigenous community on campus. In some ways, my work responded to that moment by searching for and using materials and a visual language that made connections to my community and cultural identity.”
Oregon as a Muse Watt returned to Oregon in 1996, which focused her vision. “I was initially drawn to blankets as a medium in my art because of how they communicate conceptually and physically as familiar objects in my tribe and other native communities,”
Denver Art Museum Benjamin Benschneider
Kate Russell/Courtesy of SITE Santa Fe
artist in residence
she said. “But it is also hard to separate blankets from living in Oregon. The weather and outdoor lifestyles that are a part of this territory beg for the use of blankets.” Her art explores human stories and rituals implicit in everyday objects such as wool blankets. Folding and stacking them, they allude to not only linen closets and architectural braces, but modernist sculpture and the great totem poles and conifers of the Northwest. When used with other materials, blankets add another layer of story that is physically and metaphorically woven into the work, such as with cedar, a sacred natural resource for Indigenous people of the Northwest, also used to make hope chests in which blankets are stored. Watt’s “Blanket Stories” are on view around the country and abroad, from PDX Contemporary Art, the Pearl District’s
“I was initially drawn to blankets as a medium in my art because of how they communicate conceptually and physically as familiar objects in my tribe and other native communities. But it is also hard to separate blankets from living in Oregon. The weather and outdoor lifestyles that are a part of this territory beg for the use of blankets.” — Marie Watt, artist
forward-thinking commercial gallery which represents her, to the U.S. Embassy in Islamabad, Pakistan and the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian in New York City. “It’s important to me that other Native people and people of all nationalities can go to these institutions and walk away with an expanded idea of the breadth and depth of what constitutes American Art and Native American Art,” said Watt. “Native artists have historically been kept in silos within halls of anthropology or encyclopedic collections.” Increasing, though, talented Indigenous artists of all ages are working today and more people are bound to discover their work beyond those traditional boundaries. “I’m excited to see what happens,” Watt said. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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STARTUP 44 WHAT’S GOING UP 46 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 48 MY WORKSPACE 50
pg. 50 Discover the work behind restoring burned forests.
Thomas Boyd
GAME CHANGER 52
Once we know what you love, we won’t stop until you have it. All in, for you.
startup
Hiking trails around Mt. Bachelor attract thousands of visitors annually.
Pledge for the Wild
A platform for preserving recreational destinations for the next generation written by Kevin Max 44
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Steve Heinrichs/Central Oregon Visitors Association
startup
WHEN TOURISTS VISIT places to recreate on their trails, paddle on their rivers and hike through their forests, they often leave with supporting only restaurants, bars and hotels. The natural resources they came to enjoy are financially left out in the cold. This scenario plays out in countless recreation destinations across the country, leaving the prized natural resource overplayed and underpaid. Startup Pledge for the Wild, is the brainchild of Kevney Dugan, executive director of Visit Bend, who sits at the nexus of a beautiful, but underfunded, natural kingdom that is being slowly degraded through excessive tourism. Pledge for the Wild is a new platform through which visitors can financially support the natural amenities during their visit just as easily as they could a restaurant or bar. Each participating community selects the nonprofit recipient of the funds. In the case of Bend, where thousands of tourists descend on its trails every year, Deschutes Trail Coalition is the chief beneficiary of Bend’s pledge. “There is a notion that our public lands are being loved to death,” said Dugan. “The quality of the natural resource—the reason people are visiting this community—is being degraded. Destination marketing organizations are here to create jobs and put money in the pockets of business owners, but the reality is that we are putting footprints into those lands, and we have the responsibility to make sure they are here in twenty-five years as they are today.” Visitors can text to pledge money to the local, recreational caretakers directly through Give Lively, the associated app for nonprofit fundraisers. Or, in the case of Bend, visitors can directly text their pledge or donate $15 in exchange for a hardcover coffee table album, Ineffable, which visually celebrates the region through stunning photography. The concept for Pledge for the Wild arose when Dugan and his family were fishing in Jackson, Wyoming, two years ago. They had an amazing day on the trails and on the water that ended back in town at a restaurant. “What I really wanted to say thank you for was the recreation that brought happiness to me and my family,” Dugan said. “But there was no way to give to the recreational resource, which is why we were there.” Soon Dugan began working on the concept of what would become Pledge for the Wild as a platform for tourists to give thanks and take responsibility for preserving the recreational experiences they would want for the next generations. By the end of 2018, Dugan enlisted photographer Jason Bagby to lead the expansion of the business. Today, Bagby has grown Pledge for the Wild from a handful of participants to more than thirteen community members across the country, which share one
common trait—their outdoor recreation appeal to visitors. These include Sun Valley, Idaho; Flagstaff, Arizona; South Lake Tahoe, California; Asheville, North Carolina; and more. The initial funding for the startup came from Visit Bend. But as the program grows, Bagby and Dugan see its viability coming from community member dues. The organization itself would also transition into a nonprofit. In its first full year, the Bend chapter of Pledge for the Wild raised $15,000 for Deschutes Trail Coalition, whose mission is to advocate for a regional recreational system that is ecologically and socially sustainable. Other community members are just getting their participation efforts up and running, and in a difficult time for tourism. “The reality is that, if we don’t start changing our behavior, the very real concern is that we run out of resources for the experiences we seek,” Dugan noted. “It’s not too much to ask to give back for the resources we all love to use.”
“There is a notion that our public lands are being loved to death. … Destination marketing organizations are here to create jobs and put money in the pockets of business owners, but the reality is that we are putting footprints into those lands, and we have the responsibility to make sure they are here in twenty-five years as they are today.” — Kevney Dugan, executive director of Visit Bend
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Hacker Architects
what’s going up?
Capitol Gains Brightness, not Brutalism in Salem library renovation written by Cathy Carroll WE ARE ALL seeking to reconnect with our communities, even in the simplest of ways. In the state capitol, when a sizable renovation of the Salem Public Library is done this summer, it will be a venue for just that. Not only will the stacks be safer in an earthquake, the 96,000-square-foot concrete structure built in 1970 will be more welcoming, comfortable and user friendly. The redesign aims to bring natural light into the core of the large, fortress-like monolith, transforming the Brutalist-era building into a bright, voluminous space. New windows, redesigned entrances and a central area creating vertical connections between floors will help achieve that. In 2017, Salem voters approved a $18.6 million bond to restore the library. Hacker Architects of Portland said they worked to make every dollar do double-duty so that each design choice improved safety as well as the visitor experience. The challenge was to offer solutions for varied age groups, quiet zones, noisy zones and high-traffic areas. To that end, part of the third level will be dedicated to teens and children, while the lower level plaza has a maker space for hands-on learning and rooms for meetings, conferences and community events after library hours.
The new entrance of the Salem Public Library will center on the community’s experience.
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NE W ENERGY WORKS design | timberframing | woodworks
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what i’m working on
Defending Open Spaces The new leader of Central Oregon LandWatch on tackling threats from wildfire and development interview by Kevin Max
IN JUNE 2020, Ben Gordon joined Central Oregon LandWatch as its second executive director in its thirty-five year history. Growing up in Maryland, Gordon made his way west for college, studying anthropology at University of Colorado, Boulder, eventually becoming the restoration and stewardship program director for Oregon Natural Desert Association in Bend. He soon learned that the Oregon high desert defies stereotype. Gordon recalls loading a dozen volunteers into ATVs and driving 7 miles into the mountains to plant native trees … during a blizzard. “Not one soul was injured and every tree was planted,” he said. What is your biggest challenge as the new director at COLW? Learning the language. We’re a small team with a broad mission that lends itself to taking on complex societal issues. From urban planning to preventing the fragmenting of farms and forest, to conserving water in the Deschutes Basin, to defending critical wildlife habitat, there is a lot to get up to speed on. With such rapid growth, how is landuse planning changing in Central Oregon? Or is it? While land-use planning isn’t changing, the pace and scale of being a watchdog for the land-use system is. We’re seeing significant increases in the number of applications to develop farms and forests, and the rate of growth in our cities has builders demanding more developable land. Without Oregon’s land-use system, the essence of Central Oregon, our open space and livable communities, would be in jeopardy. Tell us about one big win COLW has had recently. LandWatch spent three years galvanizing Bend residents toward a vision for revitalizing Bend’s urban core and improving its transportation system. The win required the Bend City 48 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
Council to approve the Core Area Plan to redevelop 600 acres in the heart of Bend and tax-increment financing to pay for it, as well as the City approving the Transportation System Plan that Bend residents resoundingly voted to fund with passage of the bond measure in November. This was a monumental lift for LandWatch, which required equal parts technical savvy and community organizing and one victory that Bend residents will appreciate for decades to come. What can Central Oregon do from a policy and land-use perspective to better prepare for wildfires? Limiting future development in fireprone areas is the best place to start. An example is the fire adapted ponderosa pine forests just west of Bend’s urban growth boundary. LandWatch worked with property owners, the City of Bend and Deschutes County to establish a novel zone called the West Side Transect Zone that buffers Bend from fires. Within the transect zone, development density is very low, and strict requirements about using fireresistant building materials and landscaping are enforced. For existing urban and rural developments, policies should include routine thinning of brush and dense stands of
2021
Ben Gordon takes on conservation battles in Central Oregon.
young trees that are within one-half mile of a proposed or existing development, utilization of fire-resistant materials for homes within one mile of a high fire-risk area and resisting further development into pine forests currently bordering urban growth boundaries. What’s at stake in the battle for the Skyline Forest? Skyline Forest is a 33,000-acre private timber property wedged between the west side of Bend and the Three Sisters Wilderness Area. Previous and current owners have unofficially granted public access to the community, which has come to treat it like public lands with recreation opportunities. It comprises a majority of a migration corridor that provides vegetation for forage and protection from extreme winter weather conditions, without which mule deer and other ungulates could not survive. The forest is for sale. Worst case is the property sells to a developer who tries to build a resort or cluster development. The public access would disappear, the fire risk for Bend would skyrocket and the ecological integrity would be at the discretion of the developer. Best case, Skyline is purchased by a conservation buyer and added to the public trust. This is the outcome LandWatch is working toward.
OUR ROOTS RUN DEEP Mary’s Woods is Lake Oswego’s premiere senior living community. Situated on 40 acres along the Willamette River, experience the comforts of home in a vibrant community that prioritizes your wellness while mandating the highest safeguards in COVID-19 prevention. A Joyful Heritage Explore our historic campus, including the century-old Provincial House and Chapel of the Holy Names ... rive Naturally Take an art class, work in your garden, or center yourself with yoga … Discover Daily Inspiration Enjoy spiritual offerings or take a walk along the river … Li With Purpose Connect with friends and Live neighbors who share your dreams … Plan For Peace of Mind Value the full spectrum of health services available to you as a resident of a Life Plan Community … We are an inclusive campus. All are welcome! Go to MarysWoods.org to learn more or contact us at 503.635.7381
my workspace
At the Dorena Genetic Resource Center, a U.S. Forest Service nursery outside Cottage Grove, a small team toils as part of the effort to restore hundreds of thousands of acres ravaged by wildfires in Oregon last summer. Lee Riley has been a horticulturist at the center for twenty-nine years, and forest restoration specialist for the past seventeen. She travels with about a dozen co-workers and crew throughout the Pacific Northwest, doing restoration project planning, seed and vegetation collection, seed extraction, plant production, planting and eventually, monitoring.
Timber Garden
Behind the seed-to-tree effort to replant Oregon’s burned forests written by Cathy Carroll photography by Thomas Boyd
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“The work is extremely exciting and challenging,” she said. “Many of the native plants we are producing have no known protocols for propagation, so we are tasked with figuring out how to germinate and grow those species and pass that information on to others who might be interested.”
my workspace
Many of the sites they are revegetating have been severely disturbed, so they must create innovative planting and seeding techniques to maintain soil stability, repair damaged wetlands and get native trees, shrubs, wildflowers and grasses back out on the landscape. They also work on producing plants that help support the habitats of bees and other pollinators, which have been destroyed by development and other human activities.
Lee Riley has been a horticulturist at the Dorena Genetic Resource Center for twentynine years, and forest restoration specialist for the past seventeen. AT RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Seedlings at the Dorena Genetic Resource Center. Riley at work on the Dorena campus. The Dorena Genetic Resource Center.
None of this is easy. “To be honest, this job is all about challenges,” said the veteran horticulturist. “I always maintain that if someone says they are a good horticulturist, don’t believe them. There is no such thing. The weather, insects and diseases (fondly referred to as bugs and crud) and just simply the needs of the plants are always unpredictable.” Yet, whenever a botanist shows up at Dorena with a handful of seed from a species Riley’s never heard of and asks if she can grow it, she always says yes.
Riley acknowledges that fire is an important part of a healthy forest ecosystem, but is emphatic that climate change has caused unprecedented fires that will impact our lives and planet for generations. “The losses are staggering,” she said. “I realize our efforts are quite small on the scale of what has occurred this year and in the future. But if we can even begin to restore scenic corridors, wetlands and devastated forested areas, it does make our small efforts seem worthwhile.”
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game changer
Game Changer
Trawl Goddess of the West Coast
How Sara Skamser is helping preserve Oregon’s commercial fishing industry written by Shirley A. Hancock photography by Amanda Loman
IN ONE OF the world’s most dangerous professions, Sara Skamser is known as “Trawl Goddess of the West Coast.” Skamser’s company, Foulweather Trawl in Newport, custom makes commercial fishing nets. It’s the only net loft in the state and the top choice for many of the more than 1,000 Oregon commercial fishermen roaming the West Coast and Alaska.
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Sara Skamser stands among nets used by fishing vessels, including those made by Foulweather Trawl, at the Newport International Terminal in Newport.
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game changer
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Sara Skamser’s husband, John Skamser, holds open a halibut excluder used for catching yellowfin sole. Foulweather Trawl in Newport. From left, Shawn Lafontaine, Hugo Hernandez and Salvador Perez use a forklift to bundle a net. A Foulweather Trawl halibut excluder net.
“We roll like a carnival ride out there. One hundred mile an hour winds and waves several stories high can bust out a window, sweep guys off the deck, and stall the engine,” said Kurt Cockran, a fourth-generation commercial fisherman and early adopter of Foulweather Trawl nets. “The one thing I don’t worry about is my nets.” “If they aren’t catching fish, they know it’s not the net, because it came from Foulweather Trawl,“ Skamser said. Foulweather Trawl nets are engineered to catch more of the right fish and fewer of the wrong fish. Fishermen can be shut down early or decimate a fishery if, for instance, their nets haul in salmon when they’re trying to catch shrimp. Inside the “net loft,” artisans with three years of training weave colorful mesh and rope into trawl nets for bottom (flounder, sole, rockfish), mid-water (whiting) and shrimp fishing. Nets range in size from 30 to 1,800 feet, fitting boats as large as factory trawlers. A recent “cod end”—the last 130 feet of a 1,500 foot long net—cost six figures. On the first tow, the net secured 319,000 pounds of fish in just seventeen minutes. 54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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The net loft is also where scientists, academics, conservationists and fishermen go to “kick the can” on new net technology that’s helping preserve Oregon’s $690 million fishing industry. Skamser is the bridge between the scientists and the fishermen. “Sara is hardheaded and doesn’t take no for an answer,” Cockran said. “She’s really earned the respect of the entire community on the coast, especially the fishermen.” Skamser said she’s passionate about sustainable fishing. “My wicked sense of humor and lack of fear of men helps,” she said, laughing. “I grew up with guys, plus I’m a little like my mother. She was sweet, but you didn’t mess with her.” Skamser, the only girl in a supportive family of school teacher parents and three brothers, grew up along Wisconsin’s Great Lakes. “One day I saw a VW with Oregon plates and thought, ‘That’s where I want to go! They have mountains, the Columbia River Woody Guthrie sang about—and the ocean!’” In almost every job leading to the Pacific, Skamser was the lone female. At 19 years old, she worked welding freighters on
game changer
“I didn’t know a troller from a trawler. But I could do all kinds of welding. As the only woman welder in Newport, I suddenly had a fan club. Guys would drop off presents, flowers and notes.” — Sara Skamser, owner of Foulweather Trawl
the Great Lakes, welding box cars in Portland and fishing boats in Newport. “I didn’t know a troller from a trawler,” Skamser said. “But I could do all kinds of welding. As the only woman welder in Newport, I suddenly had a fan club. Guys would drop off presents, flowers and notes.” After crab, salmon and tuna fishing, she tried the ancient craft of net-making. In 1984, the worst possible economic climate, Skamser launched Foulweather Trawl. “For the first time, I was intimidated. I sat down in the bathroom of our rental and would call the fishermen. ‘Hi, this is Sara. I’m still here if you need your net fixed.’” The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration had just declared the ground fishery a “disaster” due to overfishing. Scientists began seeking new ideas and technology that would reduce bycatch, the unintended additional fish caught. “We needed fishermen to talk with us and trust us,” said NOAA research biologist Waldo Wakefield. “At our first meeting, there was Sara and one fisherman, Kurt Cockran.”
“Fishermen have valuable data from their log books and they care about sustainable fishing,” Skamser said. They just weren’t being asked as a courtesy. Skamser began troubleshooting in the loft with the fisherfolk and scientists from NOAA, Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife and the Pacific States Marine Fisheries Commission. They experimented with designs like shrimp excluders, which have what looks like a giant barbecue grill woven into a funnelshaped net. The shrimp slip through the grill and the big fish, like salmon, can swim out openings on the side. On a giant flat screen in the loft, they studied videos from cameras attached to the nets, helping determine the precise angle and size of the grids. Other innovations include nets in multiple colors to help identify proper placement, and the “idiot stick” net, with welded markers that indicate where to pick up and bundle the nets onboard. Many of the nets are also used in scientific research projects. “Sara has significantly contributed to restoring a fishery that was a disaster twenty years ago,” Wakefield said. “We now have more than 100 ground fish species, with many of them earning the international marine stewardship classification for sustainability.” Foulweather Trawl is well positioned for the future, even as the Trawl Goddess tackles her biggest job yet—battling a rare cancer. “I’ve always been the strongest, tallest and fastest, so this just cut me to the quick,” Skamser said. “But my husband and I have been attacked by love from the entire West Coast fleet and it just warms the cockles of my heart.” As Skamser recovers from life-extending surgeries, she looks out her windows to the Pacific and proudly watches her fishermen at work. “Oregonians should be proud of our fishermen. Our company motto is ‘Changing the world one mesh at a time,’ and every time a boat goes out, a piece of us goes with them.” JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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ZOO M TOWN
THE BOOM IN
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OM WNS
OREGON’S BEST PLACES TO LIVE WHEN YOU CAN WORK REMOTELY FROM ANYWHERE written by Cathy Carroll
REFLECT A MOMENT on how you felt during a favorite Oregon getaway—gliding through fresh powder, hiking among fragrant pines, swimming in a lake reflecting a snow capped peak, paddling on liquid serenity or being rejuvenated by the salt-infused breeze of the Pacific. Remember wishing you didn’t have to leave, vacation over, back to work? More than ever, work can be wherever you choose. To be certain, the global pandemic has few silver linings, but the shutdown of offices and the rise of remote work allows more choice in where to live. Across America, millions have begun working remotely since last spring, a trend that’s clearly taking hold in Oregon, too. “Zoom Towns,” idyllic places where you can connect with workplaces virtually, have spurred migrations that appear to be doubling down on existing growth patterns, although it’s too soon to measure, according to the state Office of Economic Analysis. In general, vacation areas across the U.S. have seen a jump in interest, according to Zillow, the online real estate marketplace. Another Zillow study found that the freedom to work remotely could prompt nearly 2 million renters to look for homes elsewhere. They can’t comfortably afford to buy homes in their current metro areas, but could afford a typical U.S. starter home valued at $131,740. That demographic included 43,191 renters in Portland, 11.7 percent of that group. You’ve seen those virtual backgrounds for Zoom, the ones that make it look as if you’re on a beach at sunset, the chairlift on bluebird day, or an impossibly still lake. Maybe you’re using one right now, attending a company meeting from a spare bedroom. Why not hit the delete button on the fake scenery and go for the real thing instead? Ready? We picked five of the best places where you can take your remote work to new heights and live your best life. When you can work from anywhere, you can manage your tasks around the tides in Cannon Beach. (photo: Justin Bailie) JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 57
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Downtown Ashland, Mt. Ashland Ski Area and the Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s outdoor Allen Elizabethan Theatre are among many reasons this is a cool Zoom town. (photos, bottom left: Kim Budd/Oregon Shakespeare Festival; right: Mt. Ashland Ski Area)
ASHLAND
summit. One of the world’s most biodiverse temperate forests, the PCT is home to 3,500 wildlife species and 125 of the 160 butterfly Some of America’s best theater, species in Oregon. food and outdoor pursuits can Diversity doesn’t end in the now be a part of your everyday wilderness. The arts are part of life, not just a special treat in this Ashland’s DNA. America’s oldest small city at the foot of the SisElizabethan theatre, the kiyou and Cascade ranges. Median Sold Oregon Shakespeare FesWhether it’s before you log Home Price: tival and Southern Oregon in to work, on a lunch break $513,500* University translates to a or as soon as you shut down Population: stimulating community your laptop, you can hit fifty 21,281** of artists, galleries, musemiles of scenic alpine trails ums, independent films and live for a run or mountain bike ride music. Even when indoor venues right from your paved city street. are closed during the pandemic, Mt. Ashland Ski Area, about a a range of alternatives fill that thirty-minute drive from downgap, including outdoor public art town, offers forty-four runs. Being close will let you perfect your skills installations, a fun, hip downtown and OSF’s new digital storytellfor skiing the chutes of the “Bowl.” ing, classes and conversations on Nordic ski or snowshoe to vistas everything from the classics to over the Rogue Valley and Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest and LGBTQ art. It all adds up to living and to Mt. Shasta in California. working in a place where you can In summer, take a day hike on log off and tune in to a healthy the Pacific Crest Trail, within a lifestyle with an open-minded, hundred yards of the Mt. Ashland *Source: Realtor.com | **Source: U.S. Census Bureau 2019 Estimate
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stimulating culture. Alexandra Sascha Meier, a former corporate executive who’d traveled abroad extensively, said she moved to Ashland several years ago and loves the groundedness of working from home as a self-employed professional coach. “In Ashland, I can work with people from all over the globe, live a simple, less cluttered existence,” she said after wrapping up an afternoon of cross-country skiing. “It is a place where people care how things are going—intellectually, professionally, emotionally. You can practice stillness here in the midst of the fast-paced, dynamic world.” Robynne Whitaker, a local real estate broker, said that since the late ’90s, Ashland has been attracting people who work remotely full-time or telecommute parttime. Although home inventory is a third of what it was last year, sales jumped nearly 50 percent in October compared to October 2019, she said.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP When your Zoom town is Cannon Beach, you can go surfing at Ecola State Park, have a campfire on the beach, go crabbing or take a work call while you’re watching eagles soar off the coast near Tillamook Rock Lighthouse. (photos, top: Justin Bailie; bottom top right: Dan Hawk; bottom left: Christian Heeb/ Travel Oregon)
Go for a run on the beach by the iconic Haystack Rock. (photo: Justin Bailie)
CANNON BEACH Jump into that hypnotizing screen- full immersion and learn to surf. saver of the monolithic rock rising Northwest Women’s Surf Camps from the ocean, backlit by the incorporates beach yoga in its setting sun. How? Take a selfie with programs, and has private or co-ed Cannon Beach’s iconic Haystack group lessons for adults, teens or Rock and make it your background parents and kids, starting in spring. on your morning Zoom meeting. The camps’ director, Lexie HalFirst, though, let the salty, Pacific lahan, who has lived in the area for air clear your mind. thirty-five years, said the Get your toes in the sand. Median Sold beauty of the ocean along Home Price: Pound out a couple of miles with the pubs, bistros and $600,000* at a vigorous pace or wade shops creates a strong comPopulation: munity. “People really care through tide pools host1,768** ing starfish, Seussian-green for one another,” she said. anemones and comically skittering You’ll sense that after a wellcrabs. Clarity gained, you’ll check rounded day and you connect off a surprising number of tasks with others, whether it’s Hallahan’s before midday. Back away from the 93-year-old neighbor sipping hot keyboard to stretch and connect cocoa and watching the breakwith locals at Cannon Beach Yoga ers from his car, or fellow surfers Arts (or via live stream until classes recharging with a locally brewed reboot in the studio or on the sand). Updrift IPA from Pelican Brewing For that afternoon call, take Company. it from Ecola State Park, as you By now it’s time to pair the frothy walk through old growth rainforale with the pub’s Oregon beef est. When you’re ending the call, burger and a dollop of Kiwanda reward your productivity by taking cream ale aioli. For a culinary conin the headlands, bald eagles riding nection to the sea, pick up cod, the thermals and the Tillamook halibut or salmon fish and chips Rock Lighthouse standing sentinel from Ecola Seafood. over your home shore. Should work summon you from Manage your work calendar your coastal dream, you can be around the tides. Go fishing, at the Portland Airport in about clamming and crabbing. Opt for ninety minutes.
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HOOD RIVER Megan Davis has seen nearly every Windsurfing and Windance can member of her family migrate help flatten that curve. Throw to Hood River since she moved in whitewater rafting, kayaking, there twenty-three years ago. Her standup paddling and fishing, too. youngest sister was one of the last Bike or drive the Fruit Loop—a holdouts, until last spring. After 35-mile ring punctuated by farm her office was closed because of stands offering some of America’s the pandemic, the single 30-somebest pears, apples, peaches, thing in Portland was worknectarines and berries. Or Median Sold consume them another way, ing from home instead of Home Price: commuting downtown. at wineries, cideries, brew$533,800* “She said, ‘Now all I eries and restaurants in the Population: valley or the city’s charming do is stand in front of a 7,801** computer—I can do that downtown. anywhere,’” said Davis. Hood River Working remotely here isn’t apt is a powerful draw on its own, to let you feel isolated, because the regardless of being near family. “In sense of community is strong. Volforty-five minutes, you can be on unteerism at the local food bank a chairlift (at Mt. Hood Meadows and other nonprofits thrive and a Ski Resort), at Teacup Lake Nordic local church found innovative ways skiing or in the backcountry, or get to help the homeless, Davis said, on five different rivers if you’re a calling her town “generous, acceptpaddler,” she said. ing … open-minded.” You can run out of breath (deThis place, although bordered spite all the outdoor aerobics) in by Oregon’s tallest mountain and naming ways to play. You absomost famous river, isn’t remote. lutely must include windsurfing “It’s close enough to get to a city and kiteboarding in the Columbia (Portland) and that’s one of the River Gorge. If it seems like a steep reasons I love being here,” Davis learning curve, people at area said. “I can get on a plane in sixty shops such as Big Winds, Brian’s minutes and go anywhere.”
“IN FORTY-FIVE MINUTES, YOU CAN BE ON A CHAIRLIFT, AT TEACUP LAKE NORDIC SKIING OR IN THE BACKCOUNTRY, OR GET ON FIVE DIFFERENT RIVERS IF YOU’RE A PADDLER.” — MEGAN DAVIS, HOOD RIVER RESIDENT
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Bike or drive the Fruit Loop, escape to nearby Tamanawas Falls, live between Mt. Hood and the Columbia River or take up windsurfing in the Columbia River Gorge. (photos, clockwise from top: Jen Jones, Dan Hawk, Justin Bailie, Jen Jones)
*Source: Realtor.com | **Source: U.S. Census Bureau 2019 Estimate
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Work remotely in the literal sense while exploring the Eagle Cap Wilderness, downtown Joseph or rafting in Hells Canyon. (photos, bottom: Justin Bailie)
JOSEPH the Zumwalt Prairie, where the elk In some ways, this is the epitome herds roam. Let 515 square miles of a remote work town, far from any city life, in a place of deep, pure of wildflowers and grasses swaying in the breeze erase any vestige of beauty. In any Zoom session here, be sure to have on your hiking gear, any memory of any cubicle. Head to Hells Canyon National Recreso that as soon as it’s over, you can ation Area, the deepest river gorge roam around in your backyard. in North America for motorcycle Your backyard being Oregon’s touring, world-class whitelargest wilderness area, Median Sold water boating and mindthe Eagle Cap, 556 square Home Price: blowing vistas. miles guarded by the 9,000$258,900* Back in town, artists, foot granite peaks of the Population: cowboys, ranchers and Wallowas. The federally 1,124** craftspeople create a social protected land is virtually fabric weaving the traditional and unchanged since Chief Joseph’s Nez Perce summered and gathered progressive. Literary arts are the focus during the Summer Fishtrap huckleberries here. Gathering every July, devoted to It’s the kind of place that doesn’t good writing, challenging conlet anything on a screen be taken versations and the American all too seriously. To gain that perWest. The week-long conference spective, hit the nearby trails from Wallowa Lake. Walk through an has hosted authors such as Bill Kittredge, Ursula K. LeGuin and alpine forest with mountain goats, Cheryl Strayed. mule deer and elk to BC Falls. Unplug daily by heading into These landscapes keep you town, where deer nonchalantly humble. Buckhorn Lookout is stroll the streets dotted with art Oregon’s answer to the Grand galleries, handmade chocolate Canyon. Move on to Oregon’s shops, eateries and boutiques. largest natural intact grassland, *Source: Realtor.com | **Source: U.S. Census Bureau 2019 Estimate
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BEND
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Living in a Zoom town such as Bend means being closer to plenty of mountain biking trails, shops and eateries in the Old Mill District, breweries such as Crux Fermentation Project and alpine lakes. (photos, clockwise from top left: Richard Bacon, Old Mill District, Tyler Rowe, Steve Heinrichs/Central Oregon Visitors Association)
It’s not unusual to arrive at someone’s home here to find them sweating, in trail running or Nordic skiing gear, having bolted back from an outing to hop on a business call. For years people have found ways to bring their work with them to their favorite outdoors playground. The beauty is not only in Median Sold the volcanic landscape, rugHome Price: ged high desert surroundings $522,000* and the clear, melted-snow Population: Deschutes River that runs 100,421** through it. It’s also the priority that the community places on getting out there to play in it. The Deschutes National Forest rolls out its green welcome mat, offering up hundreds of miles of trails for mountain biking, skiing, hiking, fishing, rafting, kayaking, swimming and standup paddling. For more arid conditions, head east of town to the Oregon Badlands Wilderness, where the terrain is punctuated with ancient, twisted junipers and rocks that appear to be hefty but are featherweight, dried lava. If your organization has a competition for best Zoom background, you could nail it by taking a meeting from atop a volcano, Pilot Butte, right in the city limits. Easy access to it all this lets you press the poweron button for your soul before you touch anything work related. Powering down afterward is easier, too. Take to the paths through the Old Mill District, past the Les Schwab Amphitheater, which draws national acts, and along the Deschutes River to Drake Park downtown. Unwind at a brewery, trending restaurant or food cart, browse the boutiques and catch live music or theater. The blue skies and sun have long seemed to influence the culture. People smile and wave readily and put “Be nice, you’re in Bend” stickers on their cars. They take the attitude elsewhere, too, which is easily done from Redmond Municipal Airport, about a 30-minute drive from town.
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Willamette Valley Vineyards set up igloo-like, heated pods for small wine-tasting groups. (photo: Andrea Johnson)
TOURISM’S
CREATIVITY AND
RESILIENCE WHAT TO EXPECT FROM LODGING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT IN 2021 written by Kevin Max
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THE TOURISM INDUSTRY
HAS NEVER SEEN A YEAR LIKE THE PAST ONE AND, HOPEFULLY, NEVER WILL AGAIN. AS THE PANDEMIC PROLIFERATED, SO TOO DID FEDERAL GUIDELINES AND STATE REGULATIONS. PEOPLE STAYED HOME AND DIDN’T TRAVEL. CONCERTS AND PUBLIC EVENTS IMMEDIATELY VANISHED FROM SCHEDULES DUE TO HEALTH CONCERNS. RESTAURANTS, BARS AND HOTELS—THE INFRASTRUCTURE OF TOURISM—WERE GREATLY DIMINISHED IN THEIR CAPACITY TO SERVE THE PUBLIC, DISCOURAGING EVEN THE MOST INTREPID TRAVELERS. Travel industry analyst Jason Guggenheim from Boston Consulting Group sets up summer 2021 to be a pivotal moment for the travel and tourism industry. “It’s a financial make-or-break, yes, but also a psychological one,” Guggenheim told Bloomberg in a December article. True that in December, the virus was spreading rapidly, as many communities across the country, shockingly, were still in open denial about the reality of the virus, even while their own hospitals were at breaking point with patients. Even so, there is reason for hope. As I write, the Food and Drug Administration approved the first two vaccines for immediate distribution, putting us on track for a summer that could look more normal than summer 2020. Local drive markets such as Oregon and Washington will fare better than states that rely on a preponderance of international visitors. Many studies, including
insight from Guggenheim, point to a summer in which travelers will find “unique experiences within a smaller radius of their home,” according to Guggenheim. Further, Agence France-Presse reported that an experimental Covid-era flight from New York City to Rome in December with 100 passengers tested negative on both ends of the flights, raising hopes that restrictions on international travel could soon ease. Even so, long-haul flights may recover slowly, as older travelers weigh the risks. More importantly, we expect to soon see a federal response to Covid management based on science, compassion and reducing viral infection rates so that schools and businesses can resume full-scale operations. If 2020 were to open a fortune cookie in December, it might say: Creativity and resilience will soon be your greatest reward. Here’s a glimpse of what to expect from Oregon’s top tourism institutions as you plan travel for summer 2021. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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LODGING IS INNOVATING TO PROVIDE SAFE STAYS One of the hardest hit sectors of the industry is lodging. Over the course of the year, hotel occupancy rates in the United States hit bottom in March at 22 percent before climbing and leveling off near 50 percent for August through October and falling precipitously in November to 36.2 percent. In Oregon, hotel occupancy fell 36 percent to 40.5 percent. Revenue per available room plunged 47 percent to $34.94. Hoteliers didn’t take this lying down, however, they worked with health and infectious disease organizations to craft stronger safety protocols based on best practices. Out of this came the Stay Safe guidelines from the American Hotels & Lodging Association. In Portland, Jupiter NEXT hotel and others faced double jeopardy of Covid and ongoing civil rights protests that discouraged all but the most determined visitors. “Overall, Covid continues to hit Portland’s tourism scene particularly hard,” said Nick Pearson, Jupiter Hotel general manager. “In the absence of a reliable treatment or vaccine, I do not see our current position changing as we enter 2021—realistically the first half of 2021.” “Unlike other major cosmopolitan markets that pride themselves on the exclusivity of their attractions, Portland has always been a city that welcomes people into our scenes,” he noted. “And with where Covid currently stands, and will likely be standing well into 2021, that welcoming spirit has been nearly impossible to safely execute.” Over the summer, Jupiter NEXT got creative and offered free space in its large ballroom to local barbers, massage therapists and tattoo artists who needed safe in-person spaces to operate their businesses. They also
rolled out rates for people who were sick of working from home and just needed a change of scenery. “As for the Jupiter NEXT, we are holding steady and patiently waiting for the light at the end of the tunnel to start getting closer,” said Pearson. “We continue to focus on local travel, quick getaways and connecting people to the other small, independent businesses in our neighborhood.” At Ashland Springs Hotel in Ashland, director of sales and marketing Karolina Lavagnino has found that the only constant over the past year has been change. “I will start by saying that we really do not know what 2021 holds as everything has been so fluid this year, and we had to adjust our operations multiple times,” she said. Guests at Ashland Springs Hotel will see plexiglass at the front desk and limited breakfast offerings served by staff instead of its grand buffet. Guests are required to wear masks in public spaces. Guest rooms have been de-cluttered for increased safety. “The safety of our guests and employees is paramount to us,” Lavagnino said. Some of the improvements that hotel guests around the state will see this year are enhanced cleaning regimens in guest rooms and public spaces, no housekeeping during multi-day stays unless requested, scheduled times for fitness facilities, social distancing in lobbies and elevators, mandatory masks in public areas and contactless payments and food service. Most people visiting Oregon and traveling within Oregon are here for the outdoors and will spend a great deal of time in fresh air outside of the hotel property, but must remember to don a mask when returning. As a consumer, you have choices. Lodging properties with outdoor access to guest rooms allow guests to avoid interior hallways and elevators. Instead of taking
EPA GUIDELINES FOR PORTABLE AIR SCRUBBERS Choose a portable air cleaner that is intended for the room size in which it will be used and be sure it meets at least one of the following criteria: • It is designated as High-Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA). • It is CADR (Clean Air Delivery Rated). • The manufacturer states that the device will remove most particles in the size range less than 1 um. (An um is a micrometer, which equals 0.0001 centimeter.)
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There are many arguments for and against polar ionization systems that use charged negative ions to bond with the positive ion of viruses to deactivate them. Notably, the Environmental Protection Agency cautions against using ionization air purifiers as they create ozone that, in occupied spaces, can irritate the airways and create the same symptoms as Covid. For the moment, I’ll trust the guidance of the EPA, though it’s a huge leap of faith for me. (The current director of this agency was a coal lobbyist whose job was to fight the EPA on behalf of his client, which was repeatedly fined for polluting rivers and cited by federal regulators for silencing more than 3,500 whistleblowers.)
FROM TOP Jupiter NEXT offered its large ballroom to solopreneurs who needed safe spaces for their services. (photo: Chris Dibble Photography) Hotels made masks mandatory in public areas.
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Oregon Coast Aquarium anticipates offering full operations in 2021. (photo: Oregon Coast Aquarium)
“THERE ARE STILL SO MANY UNKNOWNS AS WE HEAD INTO A NEW YEAR, BUT I AM CONFIDENT THAT WE WILL GET THROUGH THIS STRONGER (AND MORE TIRED) THAN EVER.” — CARRIE LEWIS, OREGON COAST AQUARIUM PRESIDENT AND CEO
elevators with strangers, you can take the stairs and give yourself a fitness boost. As fresh air is important, seek accommodations with windows that open. Short of that, seek hotels that have upgraded their HVAC filtration systems to hospital-grade HEPA status. HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filters reportedly are 99 percent effective in capturing tiny virus particles, including those of Covid-19. You can also bring along your own if you have one at home. Though you may not require a lot of housekeeping during your stay, it is important to leave a tip for those who are on the front lines of Covid safety. A widely circulated figure for housekeeping tips is $2 to $5 per guest per day, but, in these times, aim for the higher end of that range.
OREGON’S RESTAURANTS MEET RESTRICTIONS WITH CREATIVITY Restaurants, bars and breweries were also deeply affected by the loss of business due to the pandemic. Revenue at Oregon restaurants fell 30 percent in October, according to the latest survey from Oregon 68 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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Restaurant & Lodging Association. The outlook may not brighten until well into the new year. Nearly 40 percent of restaurateurs said they would likely have to shut down within six months without additional help from the federal government. Long perfecting the art of ambiance and service for guests, restaurateurs had to quickly pivot to technology, apps, outdoor spaces and menus designed for curbside pickup. For most restaurants, this cultural shift was never going to be sustainable long term. The ongoing see-saw of state regulations, the reduced dining capacity due to social distancing and weaker demand from a wary public all wreaked havoc on the fundamentals of the industry. Scrappiness rules the day when it comes to restaurant survival. When dine-in status is possible, restaurants have made a fine point of moving toward a contactless experience. Payments can be made by contactless transactions. Menus have gone digital, too, as in the case of restaurants such as Broder Øst in Hood River, where guests simply scan a QR code to pull up a menu on their smartphones. Ava Gene’s in Portland, known for its slow-food, highly experiential Italian cuisine was quick and
creative in responding to the challenge of the pandemic. The restaurant added a takeout deli and grocery, named it Division Street Grocers and began acting more like an Italian market. The new venue allows Ava Gene aficionados to order sauces, meats, vinegars, pre-made pizzas, and family or individual meals such as its Bolognese for pickup or delivery. For its part, Larks, Ashland Springs Hotel’s adjacent farm-to-table restaurant, added new services such as room service at the hotel, to-go and local delivery. During summer, Larks took over the hotel’s outdoor English Garden for reservation-only dining three nights per week. Look for this idyllic spot to be a part of Larks’ 2021 ongoing dining strategy as well. Notably, igloos, bubbles and other new outdoor dining paradigms emerged from pandemic restrictions. Willamette Valley Vineyards sprouted a campus of igloo-like, heated pods for small wine-tasting groups and thoroughly vented and cleaned the pods between uses. CampingYurts.com in Bend has reportedly seen a surge in demand from restaurants hoping to offer more ventilated outdoor dining options for guests in winter.
EVENTS, CONCERTS AND MUSEUMS PLOT A PATH FORWARD IN 2021 One segment of travel and tourism with the greatest obstacles to overcome is the one that thrives on mass audiences, often indoors and always shoulder to shoulder. Managers of concerts and live stage events such as the Oregon Bach Festival in Eugene and the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland are crossing their fingers and looking for signs that will allow guests to safely congregate this year. As Covid began to spread through the country in March, Oregon Shakespeare Festival closed, laying off more than 500 people and charging the remaining sixty with figuring out how to support their colleagues and transform programming into something that could withstand Covid in the near term. In September, the Almeda Fire blew up and torched more than 3,000 acres, including the homes of twenty-four OSF employees, according to CJ Martinez, OSF director of communications, whose own truck was incinerated. OSF built the O! platform, essentially its own streaming app for digital performances including world premieres, industry conversations, behind-thescenes footage and immersive classes. “We’re going to have to be a thought leader and how live theater will be done in the era of the pandemic,” said Martinez. “We are looking at many models right
now. We have the opportunity to start the season at any point, maybe starting with the outdoor theater in spring and leaning toward the second half of 2021 for indoor theater when our audience, staff and actors are vaccinated.” Unlike OSF, the Oregon Bach Festival in Eugene doesn’t have a dedicated outdoor stage at the Hult Center for Performing Arts. Further, audiences for live orchestras tend to be from an older demographic, which may be more susceptible to Covid. “OBF leadership has been in contact with similar arts organizations around the world, industry colleagues, and health experts as potential Festival scenarios are developed for concerts that utilize smaller forces, protect chorus and solo vocalists, and explore distance requirements for each, individual instrument in an orchestra,” said Josh Gren, interim director of marketing and communications. “These potential scenarios include live events, virtual events and hybrid events.” Until then, Bach fans can tune into the Festival’s dedicated radio station, KWAX, and buy tickets to live streamed musical events on its website as the festival marks its fiftieth anniversary this summer. The Britt Fest in Jacksonville said it is in a wait-andsee mode, unable to answer questions about its 2021 season as of December. Perhaps parents had it the worst. Working from home, teaching kids from home and museums closed to the public made for chaos. Good news from the Oregon Coast Aquarium may lift the cloud. The Aquarium said it anticipates full operations in 2021. “We realize that it will be very different from the ‘norm’ in the coming year,” said Oregon Coast Aquarium President and CEO Carrie Lewis. “We know that our guests and members are eager to resume traveling to the Aquarium, but will still want to feel that we are taking their safety seriously. We will continue to adhere to the safety precautions that we implemented in 2020.” The nearly thirty-year-old family favorite in Newport will be back in 2012 with a slate of new offerings: a new Indo-Pacific exhibit, a new admissions annex, a remodeled entrance, cafe and lobby, a new amphitheater for animal presentations, and within the first quarter of 2021, will break ground on a new, expanded nature play area. Lewis perhaps sums up this year for many in the tourism-related industry. “There are still so many unknowns as we head into a new year, but I am confident that we will get through this stronger (and more tired) than ever.” JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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WILD OREGON
written and photographed by Christian Murillo OREGON HAS SOME of the most expansive and diverse wilderness areas in the continental United States. From the rugged and serene Oregon Coast, to the towering Cascade Range, to the remote deserts and parts of the Rocky Mountains in Eastern Oregon, there is more than enough wild for us to spread out and explore. In a year where crowded trails and stuffy campgrounds seem unappealing and even dangerous, the motivation to go just a bit farther and break away from the so-called “best trails” is more profound than ever. A slice of wilderness is out there waiting just for you. It might require a bit more research, a bit more driving and a bit more work, but the dividends are tenfold. Come prepared and ready to embrace adventure—you won’t regret it.
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Eagle Cap Wilderness
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Blacklock Point, Floras Lake State Natural Area / AT LEFT, FROM TOP Maxwell Butte, Mount Jefferson Wilderness; Sutton Mountain Wilderness JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 73
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Black Crater, Deschutes National Forest / AT LEFT, FROM TOP Strawberry Mountain Wilderness; Strawberry Falls, Strawberry Mountain Wilderness
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ADVENTURE 80 LODGING 82 TRIP PLANNER 84 DESTINATIONS 90
pg. 84 Klamath Falls is the ideal base camp for scores of adventures.
Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 78
Exclusive Ranch at the Canyons Offering 11750 NE CANYONS RANCH DR, TERREBONNE, OR | $4,500,000 / 7,030 SF / 7.9 ACRES
About this Luxury Home This spectacular Ranch at the Canyons property provides the serenity, privacy and ambiance you’ve been looking for. This Norman Building & Design masterpiece features an impressive great room with stone fireplace, travertine floors, mahogany beams and overall casual elegance. Your lifestyle will include the Olympic sized lap pool, chef’s kitchen with quartzite counters, gorgeous master suite, media/game rooms and a wine room. An elevator leads to the second floor guest suites and office with stunning views of the bend in the Crooked River, the vibrancy of Smith Rock’s Red Rock Canyon, hundreds of acres of hay fields and wildlife passing by. Enjoy indoor-outdoor living on the extensive patio with built-in BBQ, fireplace, covered dining and hot tub overlooking the canyon.
About the Ranch at the Canyons Ranch at the Canyon amenities include the Old Winery Clubhouse with pool, fitness room, guest suites, commercial kitchen and tennis courts; Cavallo Equestrian Center with 10 stalls and paddocks; The Tuscan Stables event venue; stocked ponds; and 8 miles of trails within the 1,700 acres of paradise.
LAURA BLOSSEY Principal Broker — Licensed in the State of Oregon laura.blossey@gmail.com | 949.887.4377 www.TheBendRealtor.com
travel spotlight
Sugarpine Drive-In owners Ryan Domingo and Emily Cafazzo bring big-city know-how to a charming roadside eatery.
Drive-in Adventures Blending old-school, roadside dining with farm-to-table sensibilities WHAT IS NOW milepost 1 of the Columbia River Highway in Troutdale has been explored by many: Native Americans, fur trappers, Lewis and Clark and early Model T drivers. Today it’s where you can discover one of Oregon’s most creative outdoor dining experiences—Sugarpine Drive-in. Husband-and-wife team Emily Cafazzo and Ryan Domingo left the stress of big city restaurants, moved to the Gorge, and opened up shop in a 1920s-era gas station. “We wanted to marry an old-school, roadside drive-in with a modern, farm-to-table restaurant, using local, organic farm produce and pastureraised meats,” said Cafazzo, who, as executive chef, brings experience gained in the kitchens of some of Portland’s best restaurants, such as Beast. In winter, you’ll find adventurers bundled up, sipping local brews along with steaming clam chowder with leeks, celery root, bacon, smoked potatoes and cream. Or, they may be sinking their teeth into thick slices of beef-and-bacon meatloaf with tomato jam and smoked onion aioli on toasted shokupan (Japanese milk bread). Savor it all, along with views of the Gorge, the Troutdale Bridge and Sandy River, and you will feel every bit the Oregon explorer.
Wilder Projects and Foundry 503
written by Shirley A. Hancock
OREGON PARKS
FOREVER
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adventure
A Raconteur’s Roundabout Rare whiskeys, truck stops and wild horses—a high desert road trip written and photographed by Joni Kabana
AFTER HIDING OUT in my remote cabin for the last six months, a thought dawned on me one early morning over my woodstove fire: “I am free to go.” It didn’t take long to convince myself that I needed a break from the relentless influx of bad news. Quickly I concocted a plan for an adventure I have deemed one of my all-time favorites. I love traveling in loops, starting and ending in the same place after driving in one big circle. For this road trip, I wanted to see places I had never seen before and give myself enough time between each destination to explore back roads, chat with people I encountered along the way and let the Oregon terrain arbitrarily lead me to vistas, valleys and voids. I landed on the following route, and I could not get out the door fast enough. My first stop was at 1188 Brewery in John Day for its sumptuous Reuben sandwich. I also picked up a beautiful leather bag to hold barebones essentials from At Hand Leather in Canyon City, where I also browsed
antique shops and The Painted Sky Art Center. I was already feeling lighter and filled with a sense of hope as I drove out of town and into the hills. Timing my trip to see some long afternoon shadows, the road to Burns did not disappoint. Along the way, I stopped in Seneca at Grandma’s Truck N’ Kitchen for a beverage and marvelled at the coziness of this remote little town. Slowing my pace, I got out of the car often to take in the beauty of this stretch of road. When I hit Burns, my love for great design was ignited by Central Hotel’s renovation. In fact, I loved this hotel so much, I booked two extra nights to serve as a home base for
I love traveling in loops, starting and ending in the same place after driving in one big circle. For this road trip, I wanted to see places I had never seen before and give myself enough time between each destination to explore back roads, chat with people I encountered along the way and let the Oregon terrain arbitrarily lead me to vistas, valleys and voids.
Baron Barnett crosses the Alvord Desert using a Pendleton blanket for warmth on a windy day.
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adventure
that part of the journey. A special surprise was to see the hidden “Boiler Room” filled with hundreds of rare whiskeys. Frenchglen, a short drive away, has long been a favorite place of mine, and I was pleased to see it was still a town where you can have a long chat with a friend in the middle of the highway. The weather was sunny and brisk, and I picked up a lovely scarf at a little shop next to the historic Frenchglen Hotel and lingered over some local art. The shop manager used to work in my neck of the woods and knows many of my neighbors, which reminded me how interconnected Eastern Oregon is despite its vast, open landscape. One of the highlights of the trip was deciding to drive the Steens Mountain loop despite the cloud cover. The dramatic clouds competed for attention with sweeping mountain views throughout the entire drive. The next day, we ventured through Fields (home of The Fields Station, known for its milkshakes) and on to Andrews, where we met acclaimed painter John Simpkins at his isolated Andrews Schoolhouse art studio. The day ended with the powerful serenity of the Alvord Desert and spotting two herds of wild horses. I headed north to Juntura in search of hot springs I’d heard were worth the extra miles. We found them empty so we stripped down and eased into the steaming waters next to the Malheur River. On our way out of town, we stopped at the Oasis Cafe to get some old-timey fudge and diner-good grub. One of the joys of meandering is randomly meeting random people. During this stop, I met a trucker passing through who had strong political views but agreed that we all need to stop fighting each other. Onward to Vale, where I picked up a free pumpkin the local police were giving out and wandered among the roughly two dozen murals painted on the sides of buildings. The scenic apex came during the last leg of the trip to Succor Creek and Leslie Gulch. My well-traveled travel partner summed it up best: “This is by far more astounding than any landscape I have ever seen, here in the U.S. and all over the world!” Visitors need a high-clearance car and good tires to make this loop, but by all means, it is worth every ounce of preparation. We stayed in a yurt (cabins are also available) at Owyhee River & Canyonlands and enjoyed one of owner Lori’s fantastic dinners. On our way home, we stopped at Unity and other small towns along this stretch of Route 26, which are, in essence, historical museums. From pioneer wagon ruts to old abandoned buildings, my imagination soars every time I visit them. In Prairie City, I scoured the antique shops and stopped in at Roan Coffee to see Ginger Shive’s gorgeous shawls woven with local lambswool. I began planning my next trip. I’ll stay at another favorite historical place, the Hotel Prairie, where the rooms are beautifully decorated and visitors have access to a full kitchen. As I passed the hotel, I dreamed of staying a week here and exploring the Strawberry Mountains. Another journey beckons.
FROM TOP Uncovered by accident during the renovation of the Central Hotel in Burns, the speakeasy Boiler Room houses thousands of whiskey varieties. The Steens Mountain, a large fault-block mountain in Harney County, stretches 50 miles and has deep valleys and extraordinary vistas. Artist John Simpkins and his dog Chaya outside of Simpkins’ art studio in Andrews, where they are the sole residents, on the edge of the Alvord Desert. Wild horses run at sunset near Burns. Murals celebrating cultural diversity are in abundance in Vale. Leslie Gulch, a striking set of rock formations in Malheur County near the Oregon-Idaho border, is composed of tuff, rock made of volcanic ash.
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In winter, twenty-three of the resort’s thirty-five cabins are available, including eight vintage cabins, many of which have full kitchens and their own baths. (Cabin 3 is the oldest, from 1922). If you can only get away for one night, Cabin 5 does not require a two-night minimum. Some accept pets. The Park Model cabins were built in 2004. Some have lofts or sleep eight and come with an ondemand water heater. The RV park offers full hookups.
FEATURES The location in the FremontWinema National Forest, midway between Klamath Falls and Medford, is ideal for fishing, hiking or snowshoeing and Nordic skiing around the 1,146-acre lake encircled by pine and firs. The resort’s General Store, built in 1924, offers groceries and a nostalgic atmosphere with old-fashioned camp and cookware, vintage toys, and games and brands of candy.
DINING The Lake House Restaurant is open throughout the day, serving omelets, pancakes, French toast, eggs Benedict and biscuits and gravy for breakfast, panini sandwiches, burgers and macaroni and cheese for lunch, and dinner entrees such as homestyle meatloaf with classic mushroom gravy, chicken pot pie, St. Louis style ribs or fettuccine Alfredo and desserts including fruit cobblers with vanilla ice cream. When dining in the charm lodge is closed, you can take your order back to your cabin.
AMENITIES Pendleton blankets make every bed authentically cozy. Several cabins have log-style beds, televisions, DVD players and electric fireplaces. The lodge offers snowshoe rentals and ice fishing gear. Wifi is available at the picnic area and Verizon cell phone coverage is available.
Photos: Lake of the Woods Resort
CABINS
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Lake of the Woods lodge has a restaurant serving comfort classics. Cabins have log furniture and Pendleton blankets. Snowshoe or Nordic ski around the lake. The lodge has knotty pine and great views.
Lake of the Woods Resort written by Cathy Carroll THIS WINTER, retreating back in time and into nature never sounded quite so good. People have been seeking fun and solace at Lake of the Woods Resort in Southern Oregon for close to a century. At nearly a mile high in the Cascades, if a getaway here was a stock, your enjoyment index would soar. Settling into your cabin near the crest of the mountains in the Fremont-Winema National Forest midway between Klamath Falls and Medford, your only decisions will be how you want to free your mind each day. Stroll, snowshoe or Nordic ski around the 1,146-acre lake beneath the canopy of ponderosa pine, Douglas and white fir just beyond your bright red door with green trim. As temperatures drop, step right onto the solid, frozen, round lake. Carve a hole and drop in a line that tempts a rainbow trout. At the start of any outing here, gaze out on the gentle, symmetrical slopes of Brown Mountain, a modest cinder cone that rises over the treetops across the lake, its white apex suggestive of a graying elder standing watch over the scene, will encourage you to breathe deeply and feel the invigoration that lakes and woods deliver. For more escapism in the form of nostalgia, head to the resort’s General Store, built in 1924 . Think old-fashioned camp and cookware, vintage toys, and games and brands of candy that will take you straight back to being 8 years old. Behind the log walls of the main lodge lie knotty pine, antlers, hunting trophies, a Works Projects Administration mural depicting Native Americans in canoes on the lake and picture windows looking out on where the scene unfolded. It’s also where the Lake House Restaurant prepares woodsy comfort food served with “down-home hospitality,” said George Gregory, who has run the resort for the last twenty-two years. Order homestyle meatloaf with classic mushroom gravy, a bubbling hot chicken pot pie with a crispy biscuit top, pot roast, a half rack of St. Louisstyle ribs or fettuccine Alfredo with tri-tip steak and a berry cobbler with vanilla ice cream. Bring it back to your cabin. As you climb under the Pendleton blanket of your log-frame bed, sleep soundly knowing that, having been at home for so long, you’ve received a small dose of a cabin getaway to protect you from cabin fever. 950 HARRIMAN ROUTE KLAMATH FALLS www.lakeofthewoodsresort.com
trip planner
Crater, Caves and Flyways Klamath Falls is an ideal base camp for experiencing national scenic wonders
written by Cathy Carroll IF YOU THINK of Klamath Falls and think only of its namesake lake and therefore, summer, you’re missing out. Thankfully, it’s a brand new year—time to expand your mind along with your horizons, exploring new ways to have winter fun outdoors. The ideal base camp for scores of adventures, “K Falls” is ideally situated amid superlatives. To start, Crater Lake, America’s deepest and one the planet’s most pristine, transfixes visitors from around the globe with its beauty. North America’s greatest concentration of lava tube caves are waiting, ready for spelunking. One of the nation’s largest migratory bird stopovers is perfect for a human stopover, too. In winter, when these roads are less traveled, you can revel in serotonin-inducing serenity or mix it up with adrenaline or endorphins. It’s a choose-your-own-adventure, pick-your-own-brain-chemical kind of getaway. With dozens of options, from snowshoeing, Nordic skiing, sledding and ice-fishing to zip lining, birding and ale-pairing, it could overload some synapses, so we’ve outlined this eclectic, three-day itinerary.
Day CRATER LAKE • SKI OR SNOWSHOE • COZY CABIN-ING Even if you’ve been to Crater Lake before, visiting in winter is dramatically different. With a fraction of the visitors who flock here in summer, you can fully appreciate its untrammeled beauty. Journey there when the 1,943-foot-deep lake is draped in more than 500 inches of white finery during the season. The lake, composed entirely of rain and melted snow, is incomparably clear and famously, strikingly blue. Ringed by dense ponderosa, lodgepole, mountain hemlocks and whitebark pine forests, the nearly 5-mile-wide liquid mirror is even more striking when outlined by snow. This stunning sight, however, unlike many things in our modern digital world, cannot be served up on demand. 84 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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Snowshoeing at 1,943-foot-deep Crater Lake, the deepest in America, draped in white finery.
Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau
trip planner
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Day ICE FISHING • ICE SKATING Whether you’re an experienced angler or have only reeled in a fish by ordering it from a menu, the idea of ice fishing has an outdoor adventure-cred ring to it. If your only association is either an icicles-in-your-beard gnarliness or the movie “Grumpy Old Men,” you should know that it doesn’t have to be quite that way. The folks at Roe Outfitters considered that before adding it to their roster this season. At the gentleman’s fishing hour of around 7 or 8 a.m., you climb into the heated, six-person 86 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
buggy of a mini-snowcat, and your guide transports you through deep powder up to a frozen alpine lake (the names of which are kept close to the fishing vest). With gorgeous views along the way, the experience is more Cinderella’s pumpkin than white-knuckled snowmobiling. In about 45 minutes, you’ve arrived at your undisclosed, high-elevation destination. First, there’s the inevitable snowball fight. Then the gas-powered auger comes out. Once your guide drills a hole through the lake’s boilerplate lid and sets up rods and chairs, it’s fish on. Sometimes the rainbow trout are biting; other times, you’ll nod off in your chair, grateful for long underwear, a heated buggy nearby and provisions procured that morning. Before your morning rendezvous, swing by Leap of Taste in downtown Klamath Falls for eye-opening coffee brewed from Europeangrade, organic, high-altitude grown beans roasted in Eugene, shipped overnight and ground in-house daily, or dark roast espresso. Grab a pastry or breakfast dish such as the homemade biscuit stuffed with a fresh, local egg, honey-smoked ham, Tillamook cheddar and Dijon mustard. Order one of the grilled sandwiches to take along for lunch, such as the pizza-style pepperoni, Kalamata olive tapenade, aged provolone and tomato on sourdough or a grilled Reuben (you can substitute five-grain soy tempeh for the pastrami) with Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and thousand island dressing on Jewish rye. That should hold you for three or four hours on the ice, and after you get back to town, head to Roosters Steak & Chop House for straightforward American fare. Back at Running Y Ranch Resort, keep with the day’s ice theme and the local tradition of outdoor ice skating. It began in the early 1900s when the city created a community ice rink near Moore Park along the south shore of Upper Klamath Lake. People loved twirling and curling there, but in the 1970s, changes in climate and city purse strings forced the rink to close. In the 1990s, Bill Collier, a local retiree and former hockey player, spent frigid nights and dark mornings spraying the dirt patch with a fire hose to create the ice. Weather fluctuations made it nearly impossible to maintain, however, and the community formed a nonprofit to create the Bill Collier Community Ice Arena in 2002 just inside the entrance of the Running Y. 2021
Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau
Winter also means that clouds and snowstorms obscure the lake 50 percent of the time and the 3-mile road to the rim, beginning from the visitor center, may be temporarily closed if road conditions are dangerous. Check for closures at www.nps.gov before you set out. In the meantime, plan for good fortune. Rent cross-country skis or snowshoes from The Ledge in downtown Klamath Falls and set out for the park. Regardless of lake visibility, you can traverse through deep powder on ski routes in the forests or along West Rim Drive to lake overlooks or to Vidae Falls. Keep in mind that all of the routes are ungroomed and may be deep and tough to follow. Simply knowing that the lake exists is an advantage, though. The Makalaks, ancestors of the Klamath Indians, so revered their sacred spot that they kept it secret from early settlers and explorers. After a day out on the snow, head to Running Y Ranch Resort, a 3,600-acre property just a ten-minute drive from Klamath Falls. Order dinner from the resort’s Ruddy Duck Restaurant and settle into your luxury chalet. You’ll have worked up an appetite for hearty offerings such as the braised short rib with roasted root vegetables, creamy risotto and natural jus. Or opt for the filet mignon, buttermilk fried chicken with macaroni and cheese or Dijon herb lamb rack with yogurt-dill sauce. Get cozy in the master suite of your 1,570-square-foot chalet, with rustic touches of stone, knotty pine, private decks and views of the meadow. Once your head hits the pillow, you can unwind and dream of more winter adventures just outside your doorstep and beyond.
Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau
trip planner
trip planner
Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau A Leap of Taste
Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Swing by Leap of Taste in downtown Klamath Falls. Ice skating at Bill Collier Community Ice Arena. A grilled sandwich from Leap of Taste. Upper Klamath Basin attracts hundreds of bald eagles. Billions of birds commute on the north-south Pacific Flyway.
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EAT A Leap of Taste www.aleapoftaste.squarespace.com Ruddy Duck Restaurant www.runningy.com Trip J Deli www.facebook.com/triplejdeli
STAY
Crater Lake Zipline
KLAMATH FALLS, OREGON
trip planner
Running Y Ranch www.runningy.com
PLAY Bill Collier Ice Arena www.klamathicesports.org Roe Outfitters www.roeoutfitters.com Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge Auto Tour Route www.fws.gov Crater Lake National Park (U.S. National Park Service) www.nps.gov Lava Beds National Monument www.nps.gov/labe/planyourvisit Tule Lake National Monument (U.S. National Park Service) www.nps.gov Crater Lake Zipline www.lakezipline.com
Lava Beds National Monument has more than 700 lava tube caves, the greatest concentration in North America.
Crater Lake Zipline’s tree platforms— zip down a mile and a half of cable.
Day BIRDING • LAVA BEDS • ZIP LINING Like an avian I-5, more than a billion birds commute annually on the north-south Pacific Flyway, the largest in North America. They stop over, nest and winter in the Upper Klamath Basin, which attracts the most bald eagles on the continent. They flock there starting in December, and their numbers peak in mid-February and continue through mid-March. About 800 appear, winging in from as far away as the Northwest Territories of Canada. Having proven your heartiness on the ice the previous day, you can take comfort in knowing that a great blind for viewing these and other raptors is from your cozy car, via the Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge Auto Tour Route. Binoculars or a spotting scope will add to the fun. Before you head out, take lunch with you. We wouldn’t blame you for returning to A Leap of Taste to try something different this time, or check out Triple J Deli’s soups, sandwiches, espresso drinks and smoothies. Fortified, drive less than 20 minutes to the Lava Beds National Monument, with more than 700 lava tube caves, the greatest concentration in North America. Many of the caves with entrance stairs or ladders are along Cave Loop, a 2-mile road near the visitor center. Wear warm clothes and sturdy shoes or boots. Most caves are about 55 degrees and have uneven floors. Bring a flashlight, a bicycle helmet or similar noggin
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protector and follow the other safety tips at www.nps.gov. The area is significant to many modern people of Modoc and Klamath descent because it is where a small band of Modoc Indians was besieged by a U.S. Army force, which outnumbered them as much as ten to one. Read more about the tragic Modoc War of 1872-73 including the book Modoc War by Erwin N. Thompson at www.nps.gov. Stop nearby at the Tule Lake National Monument, commemorating the largest and most controversial of the sites where Japanese Americans were incarcerated during World War II. The monument also includes Petroglyph Point, one of the largest panels of Native American rock art in the United States. After having spent the morning watching raptors glide above the subalpine conifer forest, pine savannas and juniper woodlands, you may want to do the same. The Crater Lake Zipline gives you a bald eagle’s view of Upper Klamath Lake, Mt. McLoughlin and the rim of Crater Lake in the distance. You can zip to tree-based platforms and down a mile and a half of cable. It typically doesn’t open until mid-March but call to learn if warmer temperatures in February will let you sail in sooner. Cavorting for more than two hours 100 feet off the forest floor, traversing two rope-and-plank “skybridges” and rappelling will punctuate your getaway with a requisite dose of adrenaline.
Unwind at the spa, relax around the �re pit or �nd your next outdoor adventure at Salishan Coastal Lodge. Book Direct and Save 15% salishan.com/o�ers
northwest destination destinations Hiking near Palm Springs connects you to the natural desert beauty of the “playground of the stars.”
Palm Springs for Non-golfers Think more Humphrey, fewer bogies
Ashley LaPrade/Visit Palm Springs
written by Kevin Max
LOOK ANYWHERE in Palm Springs, and you’ll see them. More than 100 golf courses in the the city’s 95 square miles splash an impossible green across the desert. Golf is a gaudy overlay to what is otherwise a natural desert beauty. Built around the agua caliente of mineral hot springs, the area was first inhabited by the Native Americans known as the Agua Caliente Band of the Cahuilla Indians. Enter the white man and the moniker Palm Springs, which began as a solitary hotel opposite the hot springs, called Palm Springs Hotel. More grand hotels followed, such as El Mirador, and stars of the early burgeoning Hollywood, just 100 miles to the west, saw Palm Springs as a desert escape from the constant bustle of the city. The reputation of Palm Springs grew and drew such celebrities as Frank Sinatra, Clark Gable, Lucille Ball, Theda Bara, Albert Einstein, Bing Crosby, Elvis Presley, Bob Hope, Sammy Davis Jr. and, of course, Marilyn Monroe. By 90 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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the time pop duo Sonny Bono and Cher landed there, Palm Springs had well earned its nickname, the “playground of the stars.” When you visit Palm Springs next, do it as if you’re a player in the playground of the stars, with no golf clubs required. Humphrey Bogart, not shooting bogies, should be the goal.
NPS/Brad Sutton
Visit Palm Springs
Visit Palm Springs
destinations
In March, April and May temperatures are perfect (81, 87, 95 degrees respectively on average, with little humidity) for hiking, biking, pooling, cocktailing and haute cuisining. The first thing you must know is that you will be your better self if you throw caution to the sirocco and role-play the star version of yourself. It’s not an easy transition for earnestly flanneled and feral bearded Pacific Northwesterners but well worth the effort, if for no other reason than expanding into lighter fabrics for summer temperatures. Shopping in downtown Palm Springs can help connect the last mile for many visitors. Palm Springs Vintage Market, on the first Sunday of the month at Camelot Theater, is one of the “in” places to score local fashion from the resale market. Otherwise stroll the Rodeo Drive of Palm Springs, S. Palm Canyon Drive, for the greatest density of desert fashion—from Oooh 92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY
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La La to Mario’s of Palm Springs to Lush Couture. Continue north along S. Palm Canyon Drive to hit the Walk of the Stars and imagine yourself, with your new star-wear, as a sidewalk tile in the making. There are many stylish hotels in Palm Springs. A few that will pleasantly transport you to another time with Golden-era Hollywood stars, poolscapes and aspirational cocktails are Sparrows Lodge, the Ace Hotel Palm Springs and Palm Mountain Resort & Spa. All different but all with a healthy dose of retro Mid-century decor that harkens back to the 1940s and ’50s. For this trip, I’m loving Palm Mountain Resort & Spa, with its handsome outdoor pool and proximity to the San Jacinto trails. The true beauty of the Coachella Valley is on display once you get above it in a hearty hike or trail run up North or South Lykken trails skirting the west edge of town. Use a hotel bike
Palm Springs Vintage Market
Kip Beelman/Visit Palm Springs
PALM SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA
Ace Hotel Palm Springs
destinations
EAT Mr. Lyons www.mrlyonsps.com Rooster and the Pig www.roosterandthepig.com
STAY Sparrows Lodge www.sparrowslodge.com Ace Hotel Palm Springs www.acehotel.com/palmsprings Palm Mountain Resort & Spa www.palmmountainresort.com
PLAY Mid-century Modern Architecture Tours www.psarchitecturetours.com Joshua Tree National Park www.nps.gov/jotr/index.htm Palm Springs Vintage Market www.palmspringsvintage market.com
FAR LEFT, FROM TOP Hit N. Palm Canyon Drive for craft cocktails, dinner and glamour. Tour Mid-century Modern homes owned by Hollywood stars. CENTER Joshua Tree National Park is a must for your agenda. ABOVE, FROM TOP Ace Hotel Palm Springs has a cool vibe. Palm Mountain Resort is a desert classic. Palm Springs Vintage Market is an “in” place to score local fashion from the resale market.
or walk to the trail and gain elevation and inspiration along the way. Take lots of water and many photos. Also, no annual trip here should be completed without putting Joshua Tree National Park on your agenda, too. Even just motoring through the park to see its other-worldly Joshua trees is worth the 50-minute drive. By now, you’ve earned your dessert. For pre-dinner craft cocktails try Truss & Twine on N. Palm Canyon Drive for a Game Changer, an original creation of gin, lime, cucumber, sea salt, sugar onion brine and celery bitters. It’s a glamorous way to come back in from the desert. Restaurants such as Mr. Lyons and Rooster and the Pig are some of our favorites. The Mr. Lyons burger, prime filet mignon or sole meunière are all excellent choices in the upscale and retro modern steakhouse. Or hop on over to S. Indian Canyon Drive to Rooster and the Pig
for delicious Vietnamese-American cuisine. Lemongrass pork noodle bowls, vegan curry and caramelized ginger chicken are just a few sumptuous options. Likewise no visit should omit the architectural stars of the town. Palm Springs is known for having the greatest density of Mid-century Modern homes in the country. Take a guided tour of Mid-century Modern homes and the Hollywood stars who owned them. This distinct style of architecture began in Scandinavia, with simply lines, open floor plans and a bond with nature through expansive windows. In the mid1940s, Palm Springs became its greatest American showcase. Palm Springs is many things to many people but, at its finest, it’s an escape to fashion, the Golden Era of Hollywood, creative cocktails and the natural desert of the Coachella Valley, where night clubs are more en vogue than golf clubs. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend
Eugene Springfield
Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
18 The 3 Legged Crane
44 Pledge for the Wild
78
Sugarpine Drive-in
18 Bend Brewing Company
46 Salem Public Library
80
Owyhee River and Canyonlands
20 Park & Main
48 Central Oregon LandWatch
82
Lake of the Woods Resort
21 Montelupo Italian Market
50 Dorena Genetic Resource Center
84
Crater Lake
21 Noster Kitchen
52 Foulweather Trawl
90
Palm Springs, California
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Until Next Time
Falling Back on the River written and photographed by Ryan Hashagen
THE “FALL BACK” daylight saving time switch is always one of my least favorite days of the year as we dive into darker days. This year I decided to ease into the shift by paddling the Willamette River from my Dad’s hometown of Salem to the Hawthorne Bridge in Portland in an old Craigslist kayak. It has been a life goal to paddle the river and now I’ve floated, in various segments, from Eugene to Astoria. To start off on this latest leg, I got dropped off in Salem at Wallace Marine Park at 2 p.m. on a Saturday and wasn’t sure how far I could make it before work on Monday. Newberg? Wilsonville? Oregon City? Paddling through the Keizer rapids and Lincoln rocks I passed the Wheatland farms where my dad used to work on strawberry fields. The river’s current was livelier and wilder than I’d expected. That night I camped out on a big sandbar under the rising blue moon. Got up before sunrise with a sky full of constellations and floated slowly in the fog towards Dundee. It was a cold morning, but the day warmed up before too long. The river current helped with progress until Newberg, but then the river slowed to a crawl. Accompanied by an FM radio and almost no boat traffic, I paddled all day Sunday until arriving at Oregon City. It was an exercise in patience as each bend of the river got closer. I wasn’t really sure how to portage the falls because the locks were closed 96
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and Highway 99E is not very friendly for dragging a kayak on the non-existent shoulder. Fortunately, I found a spot to drag the boat ashore next to an auto repair shop. I’d just started to lash the boat to the skateboard for hitchhiking around Willamette Falls, when one of the guys at the shop offered a ride downstream of the falls! Was quite tired from the many miles on the river, but decided to push all the way back home to Portland with such nice weather and a well known stretch of the river ahead. This lower stretch of the Willamette is much more urban, with mansions and motorboats that were sending big wakes my way as they obviously roared by. I paddled steadily all the way back through Gladstone, Elk Rock, Milwaukee, Sellwood, Ross Island and then finally, back to the City of Bridges! I pulled up to the Hawthorne Bridge at 6:30 p.m. that Sunday, with plenty of time to make it home and to work on Monday. I counted the distance later. I realized that I’d just paddled 70 miles in twenty-and-a-half hours of paddle time.
