1859 Oregon's Magazine | January/February 2024 by Statehood Media

TRIP PLANNER: COTTAGE GROVE PG. 86

Preserving Kelp Forests

Meet Oregon’s New State Vegetable

Nonalcoholic Beers for Dry January

S PAC E O U T

Oregon’s Best Places to Stargaze

DESTINATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELER

1859oregonmagazine.com $5.95 display until February 29, 2024

LIVE

THINK

EXPLORE

OREGON

January | February

volume 84

Discover yourself here. Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Coming Summer 2024, a vibrant community plaza, specialty retail and even more amenities will continue to set this neighborhood apart from the rest. Ready to start your home search journey? Discover more about our highly-skilled Builders Guild and available new homes, cottages, and townhomes by visiting DiscoveryWestBend.com or scanning the QR code to the right. We also invite you to visit our Discovery Pod at the Corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.

WCVA_

SPEND A WEEKEND EXPLORING SOME

NEW GRAPE STOMPING GROUNDS.

Experience an exceptional, intimate world of wine just west of Portland. Find your new favorite pour at

Order Your FREE Wine Touring Guide

TUALATINVALLEY.ORG WCVA_1859_WA_JAN_FEB_2024.indd 1

12/12/23 4:28 PM

Oregon

Dungeness Crab Oregon’s state crustacean is a culinary icon of the Northwest, and beyond

Oregon Dungeness crab, our state’s official crustacean, is internationally lauded as a culinary delicacy. Its distinctly sweet, succulent flavors are a melt-in-themouth hit for chefs and consumers alike. Oregon Dungeness crab, an integral part of the Northwest’s seafood heritage, has been harvested commercially since the late 1800s. The journey from ocean to table is hard earned for these eightlegged, two-clawed critters; newly hatched crabs stay in a larval stage for

up to twelve months and survive merciless ocean currents and predators to endure six successive stages before resembling a miniature crab. It takes roughly four years for male crabs to reach legal harvest size (6¼ inches across the shell back), while female crabs are never harvested. Protecting the breeding process is vital to the industry. Crabs are caught in circular steel traps, commonly called pots, that weigh between 60 and 125 pounds. Each pot has a buoy attached, marked for retrieval. The average boat fishes 200 to 500 pots, and crabs are sorted alive on vessels in circulated seawater until they are delivered to shore-side processing plants.

Oregon Dungeness Crab Commission, composed of eight members appointed by peers, was established in 1977 by the Oregon Legislature as an industryfunded agency and part of the Oregon Department of Agriculture’s Commodity Commission program. The unique assembly of fishermen allows for pooled funds to increase the recognition, value and use for Oregon Dungeness crab. Crystal Adams was recently named executive director.

“I am excited to continue in the industry I love and not only grow in this position, but keep it going for future generations of seafood lovers for years to come,” said Adams.

Oregon Dungeness Crab Focaccia with Pesto and Gruyère

Oregon Dungeness Crab Commissioner and Culinary Ambassador Leif Benson SERVES 4-6 | For recipe video, visit oregondungeness.org • 1 pound Oregon Dungeness crab meat • 2 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise • 1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning • 1/2 cup pesto • 1 loaf focaccia bread • 2 cups Gruyère cheese, grated • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley (optional)

Mix Oregon Dungeness crab with mayonnaise (chef prefers Kewpie mayonnaise, but any mayonnaise will work) and Old Bay seasoning. Spread pesto on top of focaccia and top with the crab mixture and grated Gruyère. Preheat oven to 375 degrees and bake focaccia bread for 5-7 minutes until cheese melts. Sprinkle with chopped parsley if desired.

reputation for using local bounty in their culinary creations, and nothing lands better on center of plate than Oregon Dungeness crab, which can be found on the menus of our state’s finest restaurants.

Rachel Plautz, office manager for Oregon Dungeness Crab Commission, also recently stepped into a heightened role after 2½ years with the commission. “I am grateful for the trust and support the commission has placed in me,” she said. “The opportunity to continue to personally grow and learn on a daily basis is invaluable.” The mission of the Oregon Dungeness Crab Commission is to enhance the image of crab fisheries through promotion, education and research. Of utmost importance is practicing sustainability to ensure a healthy ocean with long-term ecological benefits that help guarantee the hundred-plus-year industry is maintained for future generations. The Oregon Dungeness crab fishery is one of the few remaining state-managed fisheries in the country. The simple harvest system of “size, sex and season” results in minimal catch mortality. Conservation is forefront, with gear regulations, escape rings for females and undersized males, and biodegradable components on lid closures so lost pots in winter storms will release trapped crabs, virtually eliminating “ghost fishing.” Oregon Dungeness Crab Commission, in partnership with Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife, piloted a successful program in 2014 that has been improved upon to date to recover lost gear and reduce the potential for entanglements with protected marine species such as humpback whales. The result is a postseason derelict gear recovery program where recovered crab pots, lost due to heavy storms, drifting debris or vessel

Oregon crab fishermen out on the water.

traffic, are turned in for money and reimbursed fuel costs. It’s working. Buying Oregon Dungeness crab supports our local community and economy. Local fishermen work long, tireless hours, risking their lives and leaving their families behind, to deliver fresh Oregon Dungeness crab to consumers’ tables. It’s a profession charged with great difficulty, and fishermen take great pride in delivering fresh, sustainable and delicious Oregon Dungeness crab to market. By purchasing it locally, consumers get a superior-tasting product. There is something for everyone when cracking a fresh Oregon Dungeness crab. Crab legs, also known in the industry as “fry legs,” offer a firmer texture than body meat and are packed and sold in wholeleg-only portions. Chefs in the Pacific Northwest have garnered a storied

There are a variety of ways to enjoy fresh Oregon Dungeness crab—sitting at a newspaper-covered table with a pile of fresh crab accompanied by drawn butter, crusty bread and lemon wedges is a fan favorite for purists. Chefs feature Oregon Dungeness crab in a variety of ways: in delicate sauces with fresh herbs to enhance pasta dishes, in appetizers or side dishes that earn a “wow” factor, and in the most traditional use, the heralded crab cake. For a whole crab presentation at home, simple ahead-of-time preparations such as cleaning the crabs and preliminarily cracking the legs make it easy for all guests to enjoy the ocean-to-table experience. Live Oregon Dungeness can be delivered nationwide overnight, and labor-saving picked meat, sold as a mixture of whole and broken leg meat, is available nearly year-round. Above, Oregon Culinary Ambassador and Oregon Crab Commissioner Chef Leif Benson shares a favorite recipe that is as easy to assemble as it is delicious: Oregon Dungeness Crab Focaccia with Pesto and Gruyère.

Learn more online at oregondungeness.org Creative production services by NORR Agency

The Oregon Kelp Alliance brings together divers, scientists, tribal members, drone pilots, eco-tour guides and chefs to protect and maintain kelp forests. Captain Dave Lacey and his team from South Coast Tours make kelp and urchin education a regular part of tours.

4 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Kelp Wanted photography by Justin Myers Members of the Oregon Kelp Alliance advocate for the preservation of our essential kelp forests. (pg. 70)

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 5

Minam River Lodge is a remote retreat tucked in Oregon’s northeastern corner.

FEATURES JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024 • volume 84

60 9 Retreats to Stretch Your Imagination From a tech blackout in the Umpqua National Forest to a pampered coastal stay in Pacific City, these retreats are for everyone’s fancy.

70 Sea Forest The Oregon Kelp Alliance brings beauty to preservation with photographs.

6 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Evan G. Schneider/Minam River Lodge

written by Jean Chen Smith

Find your center

Now getting to the mountain is just as good as flying down it with daily direct flights from SEA and PDX to Central Oregon. To learn more, go to visitcentraloregon.com.

DEPARTMENTS JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024 • volume 84

LIVE 20 NOTEBOOK

Resumed flights, custom furniture and first ascents.

26 FOOD + DRINK

Nonalcoholic, hoppy beers, and a no-carbon-footprint cocktail.

32 FARM TO TABLE

Spuds: Digging the (new) state vegetable.

38 HOME + DESIGN

A small, modern cabin lives big in the forest. Further Society

46 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Edna Vazquez and her magic world of mariachi.

THINK

50 STARTUP

Oregon’s semiconductor manufacturers get a new jolt with the CHIPS Act.

52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

Fisherman Lance Fisher guides clients to salmon and natural history.

54 MY WORKSPACE

Spray, Oregon’s church (re)assembly.

58 GAME CHANGER

The Portland Community College Foundation.

EXPLORE 78 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Tambi Lane

Kale Chesney

Shaniko Hotel.

14 Editor’s Letter 16 1859 Online 94 Map of Oregon 96 Until Next Time

COVER

photo by Tyler Roemer Alvord Desert (see Adventure, pg. 80)

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

80 ADVENTURE

Oregon’s dark places to stargaze.

84 LODGING

Carlton’s new Inn the Ground.

86 TRIP PLANNER

Covered Bridge Capital of the West, Cottage Grove.

92 NW DESTINATION

Catalina Island, California.

seaside is for Sweet times with your kids

“We know, we know. Dessert is supposed to come after dinner. But here in Seaside you can do all the things in any order you want. Arcade before breakfast? Sure. Ride a swan boat backwards? Go for it! Feed the seals then fly a kite and have pancakes for dinner… it’s vacation!”

@visitseasideOR

seasideOR.com

CONTRIBUTORS

CATHY CARROLL Writer Bibliophile

JEN SOTOLONGO Writer Adventure

ALYSON BROWN Photographer Beerlandia

JONI KABANA Writer + Photographer My Workspace

“Journeying through some of the world’s highest—and climateimperiled—mountain peaks with internationally recognized alpinist Graham Zimmerman, in his book, A Fine Line, filled me with inspiration to get out into our planet’s thrilling, wild places. It’s also a compelling call to use the tools in our packs to be a better human, to those closest to us—and in speaking out for climate action, too.” (pg. 24)

“When I pitched this story, I thought about my time living in Bend, which has a light ordinance. It’s eerily dark at night, but the night skies are unlike anywhere else in Oregon. There’s something about staring up at the stars that makes you understand just how small we are in this world.” (pg. 80)

“Styling and capturing the perfect scene on camera is a true love of mine. It allows me to transform ordinary moments into visually enticing experiences. By highlighting details of unique textures, quirky props and the play of light, I like the viewer to be transported into the image. In this case, I had the idea to set up a game night—fun and playful—while showcasing a great selection of beers.” (pg. 26)

“Imagine someone telling you they wish they experienced your career path, only to be thinking the same thing about them. Having grown up in a city, I have no clue how to capture a loose bull, and I certainly wouldn’t think moving a huge building to my property in the middle of the night by slicing it up into chunks is doable. Becky and Bryon Clark are infinitely inspiring rural homesteaders. I love when vastly different lifestyles come together and differences are rejoiced. I just might take them up on their offer to get me into a saddle.” (pg. 54)

From Haiti to the Himalayas, Cathy Carroll has written about some of the world’s most fascinating people and places for many major news outlets. Based in Bend, she never tires of telling the stories of the Northwest’s most creative thinkers and singular places.

Jen Sotolongo is the founder of the adventure dog blog Long Haul Trekkers, a freelance writer and a book author. She is a PNW native and lives in the Columbia River Gorge with her dog, Sitka.

10 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Alyson Brown is a photographer, stylist and art director specializing in beverage, food and botanicals. Born and raised in Florida, Alyson has felt lucky to call Bend her home for over a decade.

When not working on programming and restoration of the Spray General Store in Oregon, you can find Joni Kabana out on backroads digging up stories and visuals of small-town rural America.

Oregon’s South Coast Getaways Powered By Nature

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

Aaron Opsahl

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

HOMEGROWN CHEF

Thor Erickson

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST

Jeremy Storton

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, James Sinks, Jen Sotolongo, Grant Stringer Alyson Brown, Joni Kabana, Tambi Lane, Tyler Roemer

Mail

Headquarters

70 SW Century Dr. Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702

1627 NE 3rd St. Suite 300 Bend, OR 97701

www.1859magazine.com/subscribe @1859oregon

All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

LI N CO LN CIT Y ’ S E XPLO RI E N CE PROG R AM FREE , HANDS - ON LE ARNING ACTIVITIE S . Led by local guides, Lincoln City’s Explorience program is a series of free, year-round adventures that encourage visitors and locals alike to learn about tide pools, crabbing, clamming, and more. Membership is free and participants receive an exclusive glass coin. Adventure awaits. Visit:

E XPLO R E LI N CO LN C IT Y.CO M/E XPLO R I E N C E S for more information on the program and speciﬁc dates.

FROM THE

EDITOR

WE BEGIN the new year looking to the stars—two feet planted in this world, but gazing light years away into other worlds. It’s at once dizzying and humbling, if you can truly fathom the implications of seeing light that is billions of years old but just now arriving like a lover’s lost letter received decades after the war. This solitary experience is also a subtle indictment of stories we’ve been told over our own years, or maybe an endorsement of others. Nevertheless, we are fortunate Oregon has places left that are dark enough—away from city light pollution—that observatories are still located here. In these places, people can go and unaided gaze far back into the past, wondering what’s in their future. In Adventure on page 80, we reveal Oregon’s darkest places for stargazing. Often the best things are right here and under foot. Such is the case with the new Oregon state vegetable, the potato. Who knew we had 45,000 planted acres of tatties in Oregon soil? The potato is novel in that it can take on so many forms of cuisine when asked. In Farm to Table on page 32, we unearth the story that led to the spud becoming the state vegetable just months ago. From sesame roasted potatoes with stir-fry salad to our Homegrown Chef ’s potato leek soup, the potato can fit nicely into any culinary whim.

14 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

The last thing we need this year, however, is to become a couch potato. Take a trip to page 60 and find yourself in one of these nine whimsical retreats around the state. Whether it be a tech blackout along a famed fly-fishing river or to a lodge in view of Mount Hood with Asian pear cider in hand, these spots are all opportunities to thumb the usual and do something new. Though our Startups typically feature newish companies, this issue we turn our attention to the rekindling of a long-running industry in Oregon. The semiconductor industry has been a key driver of economic growth for Oregon, and particularly the Portland Metro area. Sometimes called the “Silicon Forest,” Oregon’s chip manufacturing took off more than fifty years ago with names like Lattice Semiconductor, Intel and now Analog Devices. Just last summer, after the CHIPS Act, which incentivized chip manufacturers to build and expand within the United States, this industry hit new levels of investment and activity. Turn to page 50 to read more about what’s going on behind the scenes. If tech is not your first love, you can instead turn to our Trip Planner on page 86 and read about the romantic region known as the Covered Bridge Capital of the West—Cottage Grove. Bring your bike and ride the 36-mile covered bridge scenic route. Slyly pack a flower and make your partner the star of the ride.

Your Winter, Your Way At Sunriver Resort, winter is meant to be experienced at its fullest — and you decide what that looks like. Drift down the fresh powder of Mt. Bachelor’s ski slopes, indulge in a decadent meal at Lodge Kitchen, unwind with a massage at Sage Springs Spa or make a splash at our indoor aquatic center, the Cove. With unmatched indoor and outdoor amenities spread across 3,300 acres of natural Central Oregon splendor, Sunriver Resort caters to every individual and inspires the unforgettable. Here, winter is what you make it.

Discover everything winter should be at Sunriver Resort. Book your getaway at SunriverResort.com.

1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content

Natalie Puls

www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon

EN TO TER WIN !

FIVEPINE WINTER WELLNESS PACKAGE Enter for a chance to win a rejuvenating wellness weekend at FivePine Lodge in Sisters! One winner will receive two nights in FivePine’s luxurious Serenity Cabin, daily delivery of deluxe coffee and tea service with mimosas, and two sixty-minute spa treatments at Shibui Spa. Complete the weekend of snowy adventure with complimentary snowshoe rentals and a set of custom FivePine yoga mats to take home at the end of your magical getaway. Enter at www.1859oregonmagazine.com/ contests/fivepine Sweepstakes runs January 1-31.

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/postcard photo by Zinetta A cold January night at the Portland Waterfront.

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Read 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and 1889 Washington’s Magazine anywhere, on any device, with our digital edition. Follow us today on Issuu.com. www.bit.ly/ statehoodmediadigital

This summer, Baker City, Oregon welcomes home Western artist Gary Ernest Smith to host his final retrospective event, “Towards Home: The Art of Gary Ernest Smith,” running May 24th to July 21st, 2024. Born and raised on a cattle ranch in Baker County, Gary Ernest Smith’s works draw inspiration from the people and landscapes that embody Eastern Oregon. Smith’s return to his roots will be one of the largest and most impactful events hosted in Baker County and will leave a lasting mark on its history. Experience Smith’s timeless representation of the resilient lifestyle expressed by his work one last time this summer at Crossroads Carnegie Art Center. Plan your visit, mark your calendars, and find out more at: www.crossroads-arts.org.

TRAVEL If you’ve never traveled to Baker County, Oregon, the time is now! From its rustic charm to its rich history, Baker County is not just a destination - it's an experience. With its cultural events, vibrant local arts, outdoor adventures, and delectable cuisines, the county is a testament to the spirit of the West. Experience Baker County and the “Towards Home” retrospective all at once when you plan your trip! Photos By Travel Baker County. Please Drink Responsibly.

BAKER

NOTEBOOK 20 FOOD + DRINK 26 FARM TO TABLE 32 HOME + DESIGN 38

pg. 38 Two creatives come together to build a minimalist cabin in the woods, at only 190 square feet.

Further Society

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 46

~ Hoodoo Ski Area

#ExploreSistersOR

ExploreSisters.com

notebook

Tidbits + To-dos written by Cathy Carroll

Steve Heinrichs/Visit Central Oregon

The Joinery Furniture What began as a one-person furniture refurbishing and repair business nearly forty years ago has become a highly skilled team using time-honored joinery techniques to create each furniture piece. The Joinery upholds a craft that blends art with science. An individual craftsperson builds each piece of furniture from start to finish and then puts their signature on it. This all happens in the manufacturing and design base in Portland at the foot of St. Johns Bridge. www.thejoinery.com

Fly PDX to Redmond/Bend Direct flights from Portland to Redmond, the airport closest to Bend, are back after a nearly twoyear absence. That means hopping from the city to Central Oregon can happen in forty-five minutes. The Alaska Airlines service is an alternative to winter driving and a chance to check out Mt. Bachelor’s new, highly anticipated Skyliner Express six-pack chairlift, which gets you to the top faster. www.alaskaair.com

camark y len our da r

Oregon Cider Week

20 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Oregon Cider Week, January 13-21, is a statewide celebration of cider with tastings, tap takeovers, meet-the-maker events, pairing dinners, limited releases and more. Think cider-infused smoked meats, live music, lectures and even a cider house comedy showcase. The event taps into the buzz around CiderCon, the world’s largest cider conference in Portland on January 16-19, which attracts more than 1,000 cider-ers, including makers and apple growers from around the world. www.oregonciderweek.com www.ciderassociation.org/cidercon2024

notebook

Shaniko Wool Company

Shaniko Wool Company Jeanne Carver, founder of Shaniko Wool Company in Maupin, is leading a ranch-to-retail movement included in the new book His Majesty at 75: The Leadership and Vision of King Charles III. It details issues the king has championed, including Shaniko Wool’s role in regenerative ranching. Carver connects consumers with the source of their clothes, including brands Ralph Lauren and Patagonia, by delivering fully traceable, local merino wool that returns a net positive value to nature.

Steelport Knife Co.

www.shanikowoolcompany.com

Steelport Knife Co.

Jason Sturgill

Design meets function in these modern heirloom kitchen knives traditionally handcrafted and hand sharpened in Portland. The Chef Knife has solid, one-piece drop forged construction, making it well balanced and long lasting. The proprietary heat treatment produces a fine-grained, wear-resistant carbon steel blade, and the handle of Oregon bigleaf maple combines beauty and strength. All materials are ethically sourced from the United States.

Jason Sturgill’s prints, stickers and apparel consistently turn frowns upside down. The Portlander began in advertising, but after having cancer at age 28, unleashed his Sharpie on the world, working for Dark Horse Comics and Nike Skateboarding before pivoting into illustration. After finding out he had Bipolar 2 disorder, he integrated mental health advocacy in his personal work that he regularly shares on Instagram.

www.steelportknife.com

www.jasonsturgill.com

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

notebook

With his music, Dr. Julian Saporiti creates a path back to French Indochina.

Musician

Building Bridges Portland-based project No-No Boy explores the Asian experience in America and beyond written by Ben Salmon

THE SIXTH TRACK on Empire Electric, the new album from the adventurous Portland-based collage-folk-pop project No-No Boy, starts with what sounds like warbling, glitchy chords of an organ. In fact, that’s a đàn bầu—a one-stringed zither central to Vietnamese folk music—sampled and manipulated by Dr. Julian Saporiti, the researcher, singer, songwriter and historian behind the project. On his website, he explains the significance of the sound: “I’m sampling instruments from a place that is very difficult, or impossible, to get back to. If you’re born into (a family) like I am, your mom’s country doesn’t exist anymore, or its name has changed. The country she was born in was French Indochina, and then South Vietnam. How do you find that place that only exists in the past?” The answer: You build a bridge out of music by weaving sampled sounds, spoken word, guest vocalists singing in different languages, field recordings of nature’s noises, electronic textures and more into guitar-based indie-folk songs that are based on years of interviews, historical research and archival materials. This, you see, is No-No Boy, which Saporiti started about a decade ago as a vehicle for his doctoral dissertation at Brown University in Rhode Island. Since then, he has produced around 100 songs and three albums under the name, exploring ideas around imperialism, identity, intergenerational trauma and spirituality through the lens of the Asian experience in America and beyond. 22

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Empire Electric, released last year on the Smithsonian Folkways label, is the sound of Saporiti transitioning away from academic work and back to being a musician first and foremost, he said. “I’m very proud of the body of work as an academic project and as songs, but this record in particular …” he said, his voice trailing off. “You know, I finished the work I had to do. I earned my degree. And then I could kind of go back to who I was when I entered grad school, when I was ‘just’ a musician, which is to say a much freer person. There are no masters to please anymore.” Back to his family: Saporiti’s mother was a painter who fled war in her native Vietnam in the 1970s, and his father was an Italian American musician. Julian was born and raised in Nashville, where he was fascinated by the history of the South—the Civil War, the civil rights movement and so on—as a young child. Now, having dug deep into his own history and culture for the past several years, Saporiti hopes his work can serve as a model for others to do the same. “Through real historical research, talking to your elders, looking at the map, figuring out what those place names mean, going to those sites, sampling history, turning it into art—I think that might be a helpful thing for a lot of people,” he said. “I know it’s made me a better student, it’s made me a better teacher and it’s made me a more whole person, and that’s pretty rad.”

Photo: Loma Smith

Listen on Spotify

Go back to the summer of ‘69. Discover the best of Oregon with a subscription to 1859 Oregon’s Magazine. Local getaways, destination dining, DIY projects and more!

1769.

Save 50% off cover price 1 year for $18.59 | Gift subscriptions available Subscribe today at www.1859oregonmagazine.com/subscribe

89.9FM allclassical.org

717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com

Earth & Sky For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.

notebook

Bibliophile

Life’s Ascent A climber’s quest for summits, stability and solutions to climate change IN A FINE LINE, Bend’s Graham Zimmerman takes readers along to some of the globe’s most remote, challenging and tallest peaks, whether climbing by the light of the full moon or northern lights or pausing in full sun, feet dangling thousands of feet above glaciers. He also brings us into the depths of killer crevasses, the deaths of climbing companions and the suffering of a planet melting beneath his hands and ice axe. He short-ropes us for a personal journey, too, navigating the doubts, dilemmas and joys of navigating a path to becoming a professional climber while maintaining a relationship and working to help solve the climate crisis. Which part of your memoir was the most difficult to write? How did you tackle it? When I committed to writing this book, I was excited to share the immense joy I have experienced in the mountains, but I also committed to digging into the more challenging parts of my climbing career—times when I dealt with immense loss and scary accidents or near misses. It was difficult to dig into these subjects because they bring a lot of sorrow and fear, but without them, I would not be offering a full view of what it’s like to be a climber pursuing these kinds of mountains. Just as important, this was an opportunity to celebrate the climbers we have lost, which for me was critically important. As to the how—I gave myself time, and I was patient with myself. 24

Chris Wright

interview by Cathy Carroll

Athlete-activist Graham Zimmerman has made first ascents from Alaska to Pakistan and received the prestigious Piolet d’Or.

Some of these stories took a long time to write. Eventually, I was able to get them down in a way that I hope can provide lessons about mistakes that I’ve made and ensure that we don’t forget those climbers we have lost.

and time again, and become better climbers while providing ourselves with opportunities to climb routes safely, and subsequently, how to use our stories from the mountains to advocate for climate policy in its intersection with social equity.

Describe your 100-year plan for a long life in the outdoors, and your approach to the risks involved in mountaineering. The 100-year plan was a concept shared with me in my early 20s by my mentor and friend, Kaj Bune. It is simply the idea that in the mountains, we should put our decisions through the filter of whether or not they will help us live to be 100 years old. It allows us to take a longer view of our climbing, to look at it as a lifelong practice rather than a singular event. This, in turn, allows us to return to the mountains, time

What was your takeaway after recently presenting to Senate Democrats about climate action while recognizing the necessity for bipartisan effort? We are making progress on climate and clean energy. I feel very optimistic about the future. I am also very clear that we must accelerate our work in that space. My advice to the reader is to be optimistic while you look for any levers in your life that will push forward this conversation. Learn how to operate these levers sustainably so you can take on the work of climate advocacy and continue it for the rest of your life.

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

food + drink

NONALCOHOLIC OPTIONS TO TRY 1 Sparkle Hops

(hop-infused sparkling water), Pelican Brewing Co.

2 Nø Mø, Crux Fermentation Project Pils or Tropical Pils, Roaming Nobles Brewing Co.

4 Black Butte Nonalcoholic, Deschutes Brewery

5 N/A IPA, 10 Barrel Brewing Co. Lolo Hops (hop-infused sparkling beverage)

Honorable Mention Oregon Strata Wet Hop IPA, Athletic Brewing Co.

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

food + drink

Beerlandia

No Alcohol, No Problem written by Jeremy Storton photography by Alyson Brown

IF YOU’RE reading this, then you probably already know: Oregon is the best state for beer. In every corner of our state, in every fold, every valley and every town, we have some of the best beer in the world at our fingertips. But there’s a time and place for everything. Sometimes we have to boldly choose to give ourselves a break from alcohol for the sake of safety, health and even sanity. But that doesn’t mean we have to forego the flavor and experience we’ve grown to love. I’m not into diets or even Dry January. Giving up something I love for a time is one of my personal definitions of madness. Rather, I advocate for a mindful and sustainable lifestyle. A good meal is balanced by exercise and portion control. A good beer is balanced by nonalcoholic alternatives. For every action,

there must be an equal and opposite reaction. Screw the diets—this is the way. No-alcohol, or NA, beers are defined as having less than 0.5 percent alcohol. Zero alcohol is self-explanatory. Modern technology has not only allowed brewers to make damn tasty NA beer, but it also helped this segment grow to a $17.5 billion industry in 2020. For reference, that’s way bigger than Taylor Swift. Big brands have created some great NA options, but so have some of our favorite local breweries. We can now drink good Oregon beer without worrying about driving, who’s watching the kids or excess calories. It doesn’t matter whether you choose to go dry for life, for a month or for a moment— the choice is yours, and all are welcome to this party.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

food + drink

Cocktail Card

The Atlantis Sour from Fracture Brewing in Portland is one of few carbon-neutral cocktails.

recipe courtesy of Zena Smith, Fracture Brewing / PORTLAND

Atlantis Sour This carbon-neutral cocktail is made with sea veggies from Blue Evolution and a whey-based spirit made from upcycled excess whey from domestic dairies. Wheyward Spirit is certified carbon neutral by the Carbonfund Carbonfree Product Certification Program.

• 1½ ounces Blue Evolution sea lettuce-infused Wheyward Spirit • ¾ ounce lime

• ½ ounce ginger syrup • One egg white • Sprinkle of Blue Evolution Sea Lettuce Powder

Rachelle Hacmac

Chill a coupe glass, and set aside. Add all ingredients to a shaker. Dry shake vigorously, and then wet shake until the tin is frosty. Double strain into the chilled glass and let settle for a few moments until thick foam appears. Garnish with a pinch of sea lettuce powder.

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

CHRISTINE FISCHER, forest ecologist (Spain)

A new immersive weekend of truffle & fungi adventures on the Oregon Coast CASCADE HEAD March 1-3 | Camp Westwind UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE

TICKETS AND MORE INFORMATION: OREGONTRUFFLEFESTIVAL.ORG

WILLIAM PADILLA- BROWN,

citizen science mycologist, author (Pennsylvania)

MERLIN SHELDRAKE,

ecologist, mycologist and bestselling author of Entangled Life (United Kingdom) ROBIN JACKSON, foraging chef (British Columbia)

DISCOVER NEWPORT The Dungeness Crab Capital of the World

food + drink

CRAVINGS:

HOT CHOCOLATE RAM’S HEAD BAR & RESTAURANT

Photos: Rachelle Hacmac

After a day spent on the highalpine slopes of Mount Hood, beeline it to Ram’s Head Bar & Restaurant at Timberline Lodge. At this après ski hot spot, you can watch snow flurry outside of picture windows while sipping its popular Snow Cap Dream, hot cocoa topped with whipped cream, a drizzle of chocolate syrup and toffee bits. The boozy version comes with a shot of Crater Lake espresso vodka.

Gastronomy

Winter Waters

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Launched last year, the Winter Waters dinner series celebrates sea vegetables and regenerative seafood. Winter Waters founders, from left, Alanna Kieffer, Kristen Penner and Rachelle Hacmac. At this year’s monthlong event, expect to find dishes starring ingredients such as wakame, kombu, sea lettuce and dulse.

written by Kerry Newberry HOT TAKE: The state’s most exciting new food event is seaweed-focused and happens just when we need it most—in the heart of winter. On the menu last year at the inaugural Winter Waters dinner series, chefs along the coast served up umamipacked dishes like sea-vegetable-foraged pho with kombu broth and a painterly sea lettuce pastry topped with albacore tartare, crispy dulse and a swirl of kelp oil. Led by the visionary team of Rachelle Hacmac of Blue Evolution, Alanna Kieffer of Oregon Seaweed and Kristen Penner with the Oregon Coast Visitors Association, the monthlong sustainable seafare bash returns in February. “We see it as a celebration of regenerative seafood with a focus on farmed sea vegetables,” said Hacmac. “It’s also a festive way to engage people with our coastal communities in the winter months.” Expect a variety of ticketed prix fixe dinners and pop-ups with restaurants around the state, plus menu specials starring wakame, kombu, sea lettuce and dulse. “While seaweed is our main focus, we also want to make connections about where our local seafood comes from and what it takes to go from ocean to boat to plate,” said Kieffer. Other offerings include seaweed-centric cooking classes and workshops like a tour of Oregon Seaweed’s land-based farm in Garibaldi and the art of shucking sea urchin. At least one dinner will spotlight uni from diver-caught sea urchin MORE INSIDE and a nod to OoNee Sea Ranch, the state’s first urchin fishery. Learn more about “We want to talk about urchin—what it is, how to eat it and why Oregon’s kelp that matters because it connects to the restoration efforts by our forests on pg. 70 nonprofit partner, the Oregon Kelp Alliance,” said Hacmac. For event tickets and seaweed-inspired recipes, visit www.winterwaterspnw.com. 30

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

27500 W. LEG ROAD GOVERNMENT CAMP www.timberlinelodge.com

1927 S’MORES Embrace the cabin vibes at this downtown Portland space where any winter night feels infinitely more cozy after your first sip of their Hot Cabin Cocoa, a hearty mug with tiers of whipped cream, chocolate drizzle, almond toffee and toasted mini marshmallows. Go all in and pair with one of their signature s’mores like the whiskey salted caramel or the spicy chai (a collaboration with Kinglet sweet masala chai). 1126 SW ALDER ST. PORTLAND www.1927smores.com

DOBRÁ TEA While the draw at Dobrá Tea’s Bohemian-style tearoom and café is the more than 100 varieties of tea, there’s also a hearty selection of hot chocolate including the aromatic lavender, a spicy Mayan blend and a classic cinnamon vanilla. There’s also a Ceremonial Cacao, a premium grade cacao from Guatemala with rich and robust flavors. 75 N. MAIN ST. ASHLAND www.dobrateaashland.com

BEST PLACES FOR

CHARCUTERIE PLATTERS PLATTER GIRL

OREGON www.plattergirl.com

CHARCUTERIE ME Nothing gets a dinner party started like the perfect antipasto platter. Luckily, you can get that delivered right to your door. Nai Zhao founded Charcuterie Me, a cheese and charcuterie business, to recreate the conviviality she always loved at her own family gatherings. Options such as the crowd-pleasing Graze Box and Charcuterie Box are stocked with cheeses, cured meats, pickled veggies, preserves and crackers. Zhao also offers seasonal workshops and specialties like a charcuterie wreath and mini charcuterie cones.

Humble Spirit

Enhance your next gathering with one of Lea Dixon’s gorgeous grazing platters. The recipe developer and food photographer offers custom culinary experiences with Instagram-worthy spreads from flexitarian boards to grazing tables layered with artisanal cheese, charcuterie meats (or plant-based options), housemade dips, local jams and honeys, fresh fruit and veggies, and seasonal florals and herbs. Find inspiration and sixty recipes in her debut cookbook, Mostly Plant-Based Platters & Boards.

Humble Spirit in McMinnville is “a farm with a restaurant.”

Dining

Humble Spirit written by Kerry Newberry

Bring a bunch of friends for a fun feast at Oregon’s first dine-in charcuterie restaurant. The creative vision of chef and cheese monger Janicé Myers, Grazing Oregon offers a menu of delicious boards all starring local meats, cheeses, honey and more. Highlights include the smoked salmon carpaccio, a veg-friendly board stacked with housemade dips and a perfectly chewy Bavarian-style pretzel served with a taster of Jameson Reserve Stout Whiskey. Sláinte!

THE BEST MEALS start with the freshest ingredients, and that’s exactly what Humble Spirit serves up night after night. “I think of us as a farm with a restaurant, not a restaurant with a farm,” said Brett Uniss, culinary director for Humble Spirit. Uniss lives on Tabula Rasa Farms, a regenerative farmstead that supplies the wine country restaurant with just-harvested heirloom greens and vegetables along with grass-fed beef and pastured pork. “One of the joys of living on the farm is being so connected MORE INSIDE to agriculture and nature,” said Uniss. Make it a weekend His frequent farm walks inspire dishes and spark creativand stay at the ity every season. Most recently, he turned a bumper crop of nearby Inn the Ground, part of the quince into a savory sauce for braised brisket. And last spring same hospitality he made an ethereal pavlova with strawberry jam and lemon collective as Humble Spirit. Read balm custard after noticing a patch of wild strawberries inmore on pg. 84 terwoven with the aromatic herb. The chef also sources from local fishers for crowd-pleasers like bright and briny seafood rolls—brioche buns brimming with Oregon bay shrimp—and the albacore confit salad, a medley of celery, fennel and cucumber piled high on a bed of scallion mayo. (The tuna hails from Sacred Sea, a family-owned operation led by Captain Rick Goché out of Newport). Other standouts include a tangle of roasted carrots with honeyed yogurt and candied walnuts, plus comfort classics like meatballs swathed in a Madeira mushroom sauce and vegetable ragu with garlic toast. For dessert, there’s seasonal sweets and signature “oreos”—housemade chocolate cookies stuffed with a blend of creamy pork lard and powdered sugar. “It’s another way to share the small farm story,” said Uniss. “And it’s delicious too.”

613 NW HICKORY ST. ALBANY www.grazingoregon.com

411 NE 3RD ST. MCMINNVILLE www.humblespirit.love

PORTLAND www.charcuterie.me

GRAZING OREGON

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

farm to table In June, the potato, farmed on 45,000 acres around Oregon, became the state vegetable.

Farm to Table

Hot Potato! Meet Oregon’s newly anointed state vegetable written by Julie Lee AT LEAST one kind of drought is over. Oregon went 164 years without claiming an official state vegetable, and in a near unanimous vote last June, with just a handful of abstentions peeling off in favor of the onion, the Oregon State Legislature designated the potato as the official state vegetable. Potatoes now join counterpart symbols: Oregon grape, the official state flower; pears, the official state fruit; and Dungeness crab, the official state crustacean. With more than 45,000 acres in Oregon dedicated to growing potatoes, they are the number one selling vegetable in the state. Potatoes are considered one of the original superfoods. Fiber-rich, full of antioxidants, gluten- and cholesterol-free, and low in sodium and fat, potatoes sit at the top throne of nutrition when it comes to vegetables. Providing far more potassium than bananas, potatoes can boost heart health, help lower blood pressure and reduce the risk of heart disease and stroke. The abundant fiber in potatoes also supports gut health. 32

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

ABOVE Some Oregon potato farms have been run by the same family for more than 100 years. AT LEFT Farmers look over recently harvested Oregon potatoes.

Oregon Potato Commission

When Oregon Potato Commissioner and culinary ambassador Leif Benson discovered five years ago that Oregon didn’t have a registered state vegetable, he strapped on his boots and went to work. Patience was required, with Covid shutdowns stalling progress for a couple of those years. “Oregon State Senator Bill Hansell was approached to create a bill making the potato the state vegetable,” said Benson. “With his support, and lobbyist Montana Lewellen moving all the chess pieces around at the capital to make this happen, it happened.” Benson also had Gary Roth, the executive director of the Oregon Potato Commission, as a natural support championing the case for the potato. The idea of acquiring state vegetable status was posed by Benson in one of Roth’s very first meetings at the helm. Roth grew up on a 300-acre farm in Scappoose and majored in agriculture at Oregon State University. After decades with the Oregon Department of Agriculture, he was ready to focus on just one commodity. “I found my perfect fit—I’m like a kid in a candy store,” he said. “One of the greatest joys of being with the commission is learning firsthand what a wonderful, healthy and nutritious product the potato is.” Benson has traveled internationally to promote Oregon potatoes, with Japan being the biggest trading partner on the West Coast. “Oregon potatoes are very valued internationally,” he said. There are century potato farmers in Oregon, which Benson said “is a big deal.” More than 1,200 farms and ranches in Oregon have reached the 100-year milestone, a prerequisite being that a farm or ranch is operated continuously in the same family for 100 years or more. Mark Ward of Baker City is one of those honored farmers. Ward Ranches started with a small crop of potatoes nearly 110 years ago. “My grandfather started raising potatoes in 1915,” said Ward, “and the first crop was in 1919, so we achieved century farm status in 2019.” The Ward family owns and leases multiple properties around Baker Valley for potato production, though he said they are “small potatoes” when it comes to their family’s farm size. “We can only grow potatoes on a piece of ground once every five years,” he explained. “Long rotation (equates to) good quality.” The growing season for potatoes results in long workdays and requires perseverance. Planting commences in the last part of April, with harvest starting the last week of September. “It’s an everyday job,” Ward said. “Potato farmers not only have to irrigate and check crops but manage (blowback) from weather and smoke,” which is a rising challenge in the past decade. There’s also what Ward calls the “greed fear curve.” “So here you are in September and the potatoes are bulking. You’re increasing your yield, but how long do you let them go before you have a weather issue? You must decide when to dig to avoid a hard freeze,” he said. Ward said the joy of farming, though, outweighs the numerous challenges. “For any farmer, when you get to harvest, whatever the crop is, whether wheat, alfalfa or potatoes, seeing the fruits of your labor go into storage is very satisfying,” he said. “Farming is either in your blood or it isn’t. It’s in your blood when you feel that sense of accomplishment and happiness when you put a crop into storage. I’m proud to be a potato grower. We love what we do, and we do it well.”

Oregon Potato Commission

farm to table

About the potato being named the official state vegetable, Ward said, “That’s my family heritage. My grandfather was a charter member of the Oregon Potato Commission. I’m very proud that the people in Oregon recognize the potato as an important part of Oregon agriculture.” The Oregon Potato Commission donates over a million pounds of potatoes annually to the Oregon Food Bank, with some farmers, like Dan Chin of Klamath Falls, making it an annual mission to contribute to that donation. “When the Oregon Food Bank called and needed product, we’d donate,” he said. Said Chin of the potato’s new status: “It’s awesome. There’s no question that this will help in (growing) the awareness for people in Oregon and other states that we are number four in the nation for potato production. To see it be the state vegetable makes me very happy.” Chin said growing potatoes has evolved “quite a bit over the years. We started growing organic potatoes twenty-one years ago, getting them into Whole Foods. Our potatoes were known throughout the nation.” His passion is producing a good product and then helping to market it. “We have great help with the Oregon Potato Commission in marketing and expanding our presence in other countries; it’s been good for our growers to see the expansion into overseas markets.” There are many ways to slice, dice, bake and fry a potato. Ward’s favorite way to eat a potato is baked with just a little pat of butter. “I’m not a ‘cheesy’ potato guy,” said Ward. “I like to taste the potato.” Other delicious ways to prepare potatoes include roasting and serving with stir-fry salad; crisping alongside Brussels sprouts, a delicious wintery dish; and air frying and serving with a fragrant green goddess dip. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 33

farm to table

Sesame Roasted Potatoes with Stir-Fry Salad.

Oregon Recipes

Tatties for All Sesame Roasted Potatoes with Stir-Fry Salad Potatoes USA SERVES 4 FOR THE POTATOES • 1 pound fingerling potatoes, sliced 1/4-inch thick • 1 tablespoon sesame oil • 1 teaspoon salt • 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper FOR THE GINGER MISO DRESSING • 1/3 cup rice wine vinegar • 1/4 cup ginger, peeled and roughly chopped • 1/2 tablespoon garlic, chopped • 1 teaspoon honey • 3 tablespoons miso (preferably yellow or white) • 1 teaspoon sesame oil • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 1/4 cup carrots, peeled and roughly chopped • 1/2 cup peanut oil (or vegetable oil) • 1 tablespoon sesame seeds FOR THE SALAD • 1½ tablespoons peanut oil (vegetable oil can be substituted) • 6 cups bok choy, washed and cut into quarters • 1 cup fresh carrots, peeled and sliced thin • 1/2 cup red bell peppers, cut into ¼-inch strips • 8 ounces canned sliced water chestnuts, drained • 1/2 cup green onions • 1/3 cup prepared Ginger Miso Dressing (see recipe) • 1 tablespoon of black sesame seeds for garnish (optional) FOR THE POTATOES Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut the potatoes, drizzle with sesame oil and toss. Season the potatoes with salt and white pepper and toss again to combine. Place the potatoes on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Roast the potatoes for 18-22

minutes or until golden and crispy. Allow the potatoes to cool until ready to use. FOR THE GINGER MISO DRESSING Combine the ingredients for the dressing in a blender except the peanut oil and sesame seeds. Run the blender until everything is smooth, and with the blender running slowly, drizzle in the peanut oil until the dressing is well combined. Pour the dressing into a container and stir in the sesame seeds. The dressing can be made up to 2-3 days in advance. FOR THE SALAD To make the stir-fry vegetables, heat a

34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

large frying pan or wok over high heat. Add the oil. Once it’s slightly smoking, add the bok choy and carrots. Cook over high heat for 1-2 minutes. Add the bell peppers and water chestnuts and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Immediately transfer the vegetables to a baking sheet or large platter—this will help cool the vegetables down quickly, so they retain their color. Once the vegetables are cool, arrange them on serving plates along with the potatoes. Sprinkle the salads with the green onions and black sesame seeds (if using) and serve with the Ginger Miso Dressing.

Oven-Crisped Potatoes with Grilled Brussels Sprouts, Oranges, Chilies and Smoked Paprika Honey Potatoes USA SERVES 8

FOR THE BRUSSELS SPROUTS • 4 cups Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half • Olive oil spray, as needed • 1/2 tablespoon sea salt • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper FOR THE SMOKED PAPRIKA HONEY • 1/2 cup honey • 1½ ounces fresh lime juice • 1 tablespoon smoked paprika TO PLATE • 1/4 cup Fresno chilies, sliced • 2 cups fresh orange segments FOR THE POTATOES Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the potatoes on a non-stick baking sheet

Photos: Potatoes USA

FOR THE POTATOES • 2.2 pounds of petite red potatoes, cut in half • Olive oil spray, as needed • 1 tablespoon sea salt Oven-Crisped Potatoes with Grilled Brussels Sprouts, Oranges, Chilies and Smoked Paprika Honey.

or a regular baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Spray the potatoes with the olive oil spray until lightly coated. Season the potatoes with sea salt, and cook the potatoes in the oven for 25-30 minutes, or until they are golden and crispy. Remove potatoes from the oven and keep warm.

off, season the Brussels sprouts in the pan and stir until well mixed. Remove the Brussels sprouts from the pan and set aside until ready to use.

FOR THE BRUSSELS SPROUTS Heat a cast-iron skillet over high heat. In a large bowl, add the Brussels sprouts and spray with olive oil spray until lightly coated. Place the Brussels sprouts flat side down in a hot cast iron. Allow them to char for about 1-2 minutes, and then flip them to the round side. Turn the heat

TO PLATE To finish the dish, combine the potatoes with the charred Brussels sprouts and arrange them on a serving platter. Arrange some of the orange segments and chilies around the roasted and charred vegetables. Spoon some of the smoked paprika honey over the dish. Serve immediately.

Air Fryer Potatoes with Green Goddess Dip Potatoes USA SERVES 4 FOR THE POTATOES • 1 pound petite potatoes • 1½ teaspoons garlic powder • 2½ teaspoons blackened seasoning • 2 teaspoons dried oregano • 1½ teaspoons salt • 1 teaspoon black pepper • 1 tablespoon olive oil • Parsley for garnish FOR THE GREEN GODDESS DIP • 1/4 cup cilantro • 1/4 cup parsley • 1/4 cup basil • 2 tablespoons green onion

Air Fryer Potatoes with Green Goddess Dip.

• 2 cloves garlic • 1 cup Greek yogurt • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar • 2 tablespoons lime juice • 1/4 cup olive oil • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper • Additional salt and pepper to taste

FOR THE SMOKED PAPRIKA HONEY Combine the honey with the lime juice and paprika. Set aside until ready to use.

FOR THE POTATOES Thoroughly rinse and scrub the petite potatoes. Dry then cut each baby potato in half. Halved potatoes should be roughly the same size; if not, chop further to ensure consistency in air frying. Place halved potatoes in a large bowl and drizzle with olive oil. Add all seasonings and toss or mix until well combined. Cook potatoes in air fryer at 400 degrees for 10 minutes. Mix potatoes. Cook for an additional 10 minutes or until golden and crisp. Garnish with freshly chopped parsley. FOR THE GREEN GODDESS DIP Place all ingredients in a blender or food processor. Process until smooth and green with tiny specks of herbs. Add additional salt and pepper to taste.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 35

farm to table

Homegrown Chef

Comfort Food written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane AS A YOUNG BOY I discovered potatoes while digging in my grandparents’ back yard. I was thrilled when the same potatoes were on the dinner table that evening. In the early 1970s, my first farm-to-table moment was soon overshadowed by fast food restaurants preparing hot French-fried potatoes and bags of crunchy potato chips with catchy commercial jingles. As a kid, I loved potatoes in all forms. As a young cook, I learned that these starchy tubers were more than I had ever known. The simple potato could take on many complex preparations, from the mundane to sublime. In the evenings, I worked in French restaurants where I would fret over the perfect preparation of pommes soufflé for the well-to-do. Later the same nights, while living in my pickup truck, I would place hot, foil-wrapped baked potatoes in my sleeping bag just to keep warm on freezing January nights. This gave the term comfort food a new meaning. Here’s a recipe for potato leek soup that will keep you cozy.

Oregon Potato Leek Soup SERVES 8 • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil • 2 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, rinsed and diced • 3 cloves garlic minced • 11/2 quarts chicken stock • 3 large Oregon russet potatoes, peeled and quartered • 1 bay leaf • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper • 11/2 cups buttermilk • 1/2 cup heavy cream • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper • Thinly sliced scallions, for garnish Heat butter and olive oil in a large saucepan over low/medium heat until butter is melted. Add the leeks and cook, stirring frequently, until very soft but not browned,

about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the stock, potatoes and bay leaf, and season with salt and black pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, cover and cook until the potatoes are tender and can be pierced with a fork with little effort, about 30 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the soup using a slotted spoon and transfer to a large bowl. Set aside. Discard the bay leaf. Using an immersion blender, blend leeks and broth until completely smooth, about 2 minutes. Press the potatoes through a potato ricer or food mill into the pot with the blended leek and stock mixture. Thoroughly whisk in buttermilk and heavy cream. Bring soup to a simmer over mediumhigh heat while whisking frequently. Whisk in nutmeg and cayenne pepper. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. If the soup is being made ahead, check the salt level again before serving. Serve with thinly sliced scallions.

36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

The meaning of comfort food is our Homegrown Chef’s potato leek soup.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 37

home + design

38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

home + design

An efficient stove keeps the cabin cozy, while massive windows allow for a natural experience.

Into the Woods Two creatives design and build a modern cabin near Mount Hood, kicking off a friendship and business written by Melissa Dalton

Photos: Further Society

BOTH RICO CASTILLERO and Duane Reed are familiar with creative pursuits. When Castillero was a child growing up near Mount Shasta, his house bordered a nature preserve, where he would spend hours playing and building forts. Later, he earned a degree in architecture at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, but kept building. “I often say, I was a bad architecture student because, instead of building models in the studio, I just wanted to be in the shop,” said Castillero. After graduation when the recession hit the job market, he turned to photography, shooting weddings and travel stories with his partner. Reed comes from a line of carpenters in Southern California and worked an early job as a glazer installing window glass, and has always been creative. After a period as a musician, he designed and built furniture, eventually cofounding an interior design and staging company called Arbor & Co. Perhaps it’s no surprise that the friends eventually met because of their artistic inclinations, when Reed hired Castillero to shoot his engagement portraits. A decade later, they reconnected up north after both had relocated to Portland with their respective families. By that point, Castillero had an idea. “I would travel for a lot of the weddings we were shooting, and stayed in all these really unique hotel alternatives,” said Castillero. “I was getting intrigued by these small hospitality spaces.” He decided to build a cabin, both as a personal retreat and prototype, to see if it would appeal to short term guests. He bought a fiveacre forested plot outside of Sandy for the site,

Duane Reed and Rico Castillero outside of a cabin they built in Sandy.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 39

home + design

The cabin is designed to maximize views of the surrounding forest.

40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Photos: Further Society

home + design

At only 190 square feet, the Woodlands Hideout makes great use of space in the shower and kitchen.

complete with a main house for family getaways and short-term vacation rentals, and a sizable shop and studio. From the start, the friends wanted the finished cabin to be moveable by truck, rather than crane, and the two would construct it themselves, doing everything from the structural framework to the insulation and exterior siding, and the kitchenette’s cabinetry. (“We did hire a plumber,” noted Reed.) The final dimensions are 10 feet by 10 feet by 20 feet long, and the shape a simple rectangle with a sloped roof, angled to shed snow and pine needles. “The form was about simplicity on the outside and on the inside,” said Castillero. “We wanted people’s attention to be less on the interior space and more on nature.” After fabricating the steel frame, they moved it to the chosen site, a flat, clear spot beside a giant fallen tree covered in moss. Two exterior sides have vertical cedar, trimmed with standing seam metal that wraps the top and two other façades. A front niche outlined in black steel surrounds the oversized, 8-foot-by8-foot sliding glass door. Inside, the layout was dictated by the roof ’s slope, which caps the ceiling height at 6 feet on one side. With that in mind, the friends located the entrance, kitchenette and shower on the taller side, then placed the headboard, fireplace, table and toilet on the shorter side of the building. Thanks to the strategically placed windows, big glass door and streamlined materials and detailing, the cabin feels much larger than its 190 square feet. Inside, the finishes are minimal with deeply thought-out details. OSB covers the walls, ceiling and cabinetry, with the boards sourced at a local mill and picked for their lack of visible stamps. The storage, including integrated shelving and recessed niches, even accounts for a slot that hides the window curtain,

sewn by Castillero. Coosa composite board, a lightweight fiberglass used for marine applications, covers the kitchenette counter, backsplash and bathroom for a seamless flow between the two separate rooms. In the shower, an internal window is cleverly privatized by slots cut out in the exterior siding, effectively allowing the occupant to look out without being seen. In the main room, an expansive window follows the line of the angled ceiling, sized to fit the exact height and length of the queen mattress, to perfectly frame the view of the log and trees beyond. That way, “When you’re in bed, it’s like you’re lying in the forest,” said Reed. Castillero and Reed spent two years on the build, driving out from Portland every week to work through rain, snow, wildfires and the pandemic. They would painstakingly correct mistakes, celebrate construction progress—like the first time they lit a fire in the stove—or just chat. “There were also days we’d come out here and not get a lot done,” added Reed. “Instead, we’d just end up talking about life, or spend half a day talking about a design detail.” The finished product has been so successful that the friends are now selling turnkey cabins based on this model that are built in a Portland factory, under the name Further Society, and expanding their accommodations to Washington. It’s fitting that since completing this one, called the Woodlands Hideout, it’s getting a lot of use as a creative retreat for artists, much like the entire process was for the two friends. “I wanted to lean into creating a space that could be used to reconnect people with nature,” said Castillero. “It really became a joy spending time working together. It felt like building a tree fort with your buddy. A grown-up tree fort.” JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 41

home + design

Photos: Melissa Dalton

CUT AND AFFIX THE STILES Stiles should be fashioned with 1-inch-thick pieces of wood, the width of which will vary depending on your custom layout. Choose pre-primed pieces for ease of finish later on. Using a level, affix the top and bottom horizontal stile first, followed by the vertical pieces, and the shortest, inset horizontal pieces last.

Cover the wall with 1/4-inch-thick panels of plywood before affixing the stiles in your chosen layout.

A DIY panel accent wall that 1859 design writer Melissa Dalton completed in her home. She used 1x5” boards for the stiles on her project.

DIY

Square Panel Accent Wall

FIX THE PROBLEM AREAS Two potential problems will arise. First, occasionally a stile will stick up in spots because the wall beneath it is not level. If this happens, use a palm sander to sand the stile down until it’s flush with the other stiles. Next, because wood expands and contracts due to the humidity in the air, small hairline cracks can present where the stiles are joined. Use a latex-based wood filler to fill in these gaps and keep them from reappearing. Last, apply the rest of the finish trim, like baseboard, with nails, and fill in all of the visible nail holes with wood filler.

FINISH Apply a coat of wood primer to the entire installation and paint. Use a paint with a harder sheen so that the wall endures marks and scuffs more easily. One designer trick? To paint out the entire room, panel wall and trim in the same shade for an understated effect.

A PANEL accent wall is a simple weekend DIY project that can add visual interest and texture to a room with only basic drywall. If you have a more classic home, it’s an easy method to create a modern version of a historic wall treatment. 1 MEASURE AND PLAN Pick a wall to cover. The best candidate will be a blank expanse with few outlets or switch plates. Identify the area to be covered by the accent paneling, which can go to the ceiling, or stop at picture rail height three-quarters up the wall, depending on the look you want. Measure the area’s width and height. Within this box, devise a grid of equal-sized squares, playing with the width of the stiles to get the layout proportions right. At this point, also plan additional trim details, such as any baseboard, picture molding or crown molding at the ceiling.

CUT AND APPLY THE BACKING Use 1/4-inch-thick panels of plywood to first cover the wall, making sure to cut reveals for any existing outlets or switchplates. The number of sheets needed will depend on the area covered, and plan for any seams where two boards meet to be covered by the stiles. Apply a layer of construction adhesive on the back of the plywood, press it in place on the wall, then attach with finish nails and an air nailer. Again, make sure nails are only inserted where they will be covered by the stiles.

42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Now Open! DOWNTOWN BEND

916 Wall St. | Bend, OR 97703 (541) 306-6000 | bend@wvv.com

Tasting Room & Restaurants Experience our classic Oregon wines paired with Willamette-style cuisine in a relaxed setting featuring barrel booth seating, indoor/outdoor dining and cozy fireplaces.

LAKE OSWEGO

55 S. State St, Ste 3105 | Lake Oswego, OR 97034 (503) 387-5182 | lakeoswego@wvv.com

VANCOUVER

801 Waterfront Way, Ste 205 | Vancouver, WA 98660 (360) 718-7312 | vancouver@wvv.com

HAPPY VALLEY

13220 SE 172nd Ave. Ste 160 | Happy Valley, OR 97086 (503) 427-2430 | happyvalley@wvv.com

Learn more and plan your visit at wvv.com/Visit 8800 Enchanted Way SE · Turner, OR 97392 · (503) 588-9463 · info@wvv.com Jim Bernau, Founder/CEO

home + design

Get the Look of the Woodlands Hideout The VIGO Bristol Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet packs a lot of function in a sleek silhouette, especially in the matte black finish. For starters, the high arc of the spout makes for easy filling, while the pull-out sprayer ensures a thorough rinse, and the single lever is a simple grab for soapy hands. Plus, it swivels. www.vigoindustries.com

Rico Castillero and Duane Reed made their stump stool from a hemlock tree on the property, but this version from Kalon Studios is an equally pretty option. Fashioned from green wood, which is wood that’s been freshly cut and unseasoned, it is designed to warp and split with age, making each piece truly unique. www.shophorne.com

The Bed Frame from Floyd is part of a modular system. Made from all-natural wood veneer with steel supports, it can be kept simple, like at the Woodlands Hideout. Otherwise, add-ons include bedside tables, a headboard and under-bed storage. It’s even designed to be resized at a later time: just add or take away a panel to go up or down in size. www.floydhome.com

Balmuda calls its toaster oven a “love letter to every toast lover in the world.” Why’s that? It has a feature not typically found in runof-the-mill toasters: It uses water, steam and precise temperature regulation to achieve that perfect crispy gold finish, swapping out the smell of charred crumbs for the aroma of baking bread instead. www.us.balmuda.com 44

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

artist in residence Edna Vazquez is the face of mariachi in Oregon and beyond.

Sustained Intonation Edna Vazquez brings bold character and soothing music to Portland and the world written by Daniel O’Neil 46

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

MUSIC DELIVERS emotion, no matter the language of the lyrics. When Edna Vazquez sings in Spanish, crowds around the world fall under her spell. They feel her passion not just for music but for life and individuality. It’s a passion forged from adversity and resilience, like Vazquez has taken her life’s challenges and alchemized them into tonal beauty for all humanity to enjoy. Vazquez’s journey begins in the state of Jalisco, Mexico, where mariachi music was also born. As an 8-year-old, her mother sent her to sing in their small town’s church choir, which sparked her interest in music. “I thought it was so interesting to hear the lyrics talking about the world backwards: a prince who was bad, a good wolf,” Vazquez said. “That’s when lyrics got me for the first time.” At age 13, Vazquez picked up the guitar. Looking for a gift for her grandmother, but lacking funds, she learned to strum and sing her abuela’s favorite song. Her grandmother cried, and Vazquez took it as a sign. Soon enough, Vazquez was singing with mariachi bands in the bigger towns. But as an early teen, she woke up to the macho reality of both mariachi and Mexican society as a whole. Vazquez considered her mother a strong woman, but she also recognized how her mother lived frustrated as a Mexican woman unable to achieve her dreams because of socio-cultural demands. In this light, Vazquez refused the pressure to marry and raise a family, and she began seeing life on her own terms. Being gay in Mexico was not an easy situation for 17-year-old Vazquez. She soon faced two choices: leave the family, or live with a relative in Hillsboro, Oregon. Despite having grown up afraid and discouraged to dare, Vazquez chose Hillsboro. “I didn’t have any idea how I was going to deal in life or with life,” Vazquez said. “I was terrified. But once I accepted who I was, I realized that I was alone facing my fears. I took the challenge and everything fell into place. I was led to music.” As a highschooler in Hillsboro, an a cappella performance, when she thought no one was listening, resulted in Vazquez being invited to perform with a mariachi band, a gig she maintained for nearly twenty years. Through devotion to music and to self, she found the strength to hold her ground as a woman in a maledominated musical tradition. “Freedom comes from not being afraid,” Vazquez said. “I show that in my songs, in my lyrics, in my music, in not caring about musical genres, not limiting my art. My biggest passion is teaching others about how wonderful it is to know ourselves and know our autonomy, to achieve dreams without having to worry about what people think of us.” In logical progression, 22-year-old Vazquez joined a punk band in Portland, even though her bandmates were all guys from Mexico City. She wrote songs in Spanish or English, listening to her creativity and her body, opposed to any concept of right or wrong in art. She refused to adapt her expression to please others. Such determined resilience carried Vazquez to a bigger stage. Singing with Flor de Toloache, an all-female mariachi band, Vazquez attended the 2017 Latin Grammys, where the group won the award for Best Mariachi Album. She soon got a call from Portland musical ensemble Pink Martini and began performing with

Photos: Kale Chesney

artist in residence

Vazquez found her freedom in music and truth.

them at home and internationally, becoming a permanent guest artist in 2019. “We sing in a lot of languages, and that’s a form of inclusion and diversity,” Vazquez said of Pink Martini. William Tennant, managing director of Pink Martini, who also manages Vazquez’s solo projects, appreciates her balance and integrity. “This music is in her soul,” Tennant said. “It doesn’t matter what anyone else tells her—this is what she’s going to perform. She’s got a strong inner fire that she lets lead her, and yet she’s a kind soul to people, too.” Pink Martini guitarist Dan Faehnle credits Vazquez with breathing new life into the band and into his own music. “Somehow when I play with her, I immediately know what to do, like I identify with her passion and her really strong intuition,” Faehnle said. “You can feel that from the audience. But there’s something about being right next to her. You can feel that air move.” In early 2024, Vazquez will release an album of Mexican folk, a tribute to her parents. The compositions are mostly hers, and the music is in collaboration with her brother and sister. Vazquez also included a mariachi band in Mexico that broke with the norm and embraced the feminine take on traditional Mexican music. Vazquez’ music and passion wield mysterious powers. But her message is simple, sincere and open-hearted. “I’ve always been an activist, talking about the truth in my lyrics, so we can all understand each other,” Vazquez said.

“Freedom comes from not being afraid. I show that in my songs, in my lyrics, in my music, in not caring about musical genres, not limiting my art.” — Edna Vazquez

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 47

STARTUP 50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 52 MY WORKSPACE 54

pg. 54 A repurposed church becomes a gathering space in Spray.

Joni Kabana

GAME CHANGER 58

See why & learn more at:

WALLOWACOUNTYCHAMBER.COM

startup

State leaders have tried over the years to brand Oregon’s economy with a little inspiration from California, dubbing it the “silicon forest.” A spokesperson for Business Oregon said more than 100,000 current jobs are indirectly supported by the semiconductor supply chain and the spending of its wealthy workforce. But national leaders in business and politics have become increasingly uncomfortable with the country’s declining role in semiconductor production and reliance on foreign producers like Taiwan, while fretting about China’s potential as an economic competitor. That anxiety produced a rare act of bipartisanship in Congress, when lawmakers passed the CHIPS and Science Act last year and released more than $50 billion in subsidies and tax credits to accelerate the industry. To make Oregon firms eligible for the funds, state lawmakers followed suit this year with $240 million in grants and loans. The idea behind spending so much taxpayer money on a major industry, Matica said, is to “foster opportunities for research and manufacturing for decades into the future,” and more firmly establish Oregon’s central role in the industry. In fall, the governor’s office announced it will dole out millions to fifteen companies based in Oregon. The companies benefitting the most from the injection of public cash are Intel, which is receiving $115 million; Jireh Semiconductor Incorporated, at $39 million; and Lam Research Corporation, at $22 million. Together, the fifteen companies announced more than $40 billion in long-term investments they plan to make because of the subsidies, potentially creating 6,300 new jobs that tend to be high-paying in the process. Matica said that any $1 million of public funds received by a semiconductor firm must yield at least a $1.25 million return for a five-year project, with bigger returns required for longer-term investments. The companies worked out their contracts to receive the funds with the state government in the fall. Intel in particular had lobbied hard for the cash. But the electronics giant is tight-lipped about the details of any new investments. KGW reported that the firm has applied for a permit to double its greenhouse gas emissions from facilities in Aloha and Hillsboro, suggesting “really big” plans are in the works. Intel’s Ronler Acres campus in Hillsboro was a top greenhouse gas polluter in the state last year, federal data show. While $240 million might seem like a steep price for Oregon taxpayers, the industry’s trade association asked state lawmakers for even more money in November, seeking $30 million for education to attract qualified employees. AP Photo/Andrew Selsky

Workers walk on a skybridge to and from an Intel facility in Hillsboro in March 2023. Intel is among the fifteen companies receiving an injection of state money to boost Oregon’s semiconductor industry.

Oregon’s Semiconductor Industry Gets Amped Benefitting from the Biden administration’s CHIPS Act, Oregon is making long-term investments written by Grant Stringer YOU’D BE forgiven for thinking that logging is the crown jewel of Oregon’s economy. After all, it’s hard not to notice the endless tree farms that pock-mark the Coast Range, and our major league soccer team is dubbed the Portland Timbers. Plus, Portland Mayor Ted Wheeler is the son of a timber industry scion. But over the last decade, Oregon quietly established itself as a leader in the U.S. semiconductor industry. Also known as microchips, semiconductors play a key role in the fabrication of electronics, from computers to medical equipment and rice cookers. High-tech fabricators like Intel make them from silicon and other pure elements, hence the “silicon” in Silicon Valley. Innovation has pushed the development of smaller and smaller chips, and by some estimates, there are more than 100 billion semiconductors in use on the Earth. Semiconductors are critical to modern life, but their production has dropped dramatically in the U.S. over the years. Not so in Oregon: They’re now our top export, and the industry is a major employer putting almost 34,000 people to work, according to Business Oregon, a state economic development agency. “Oregon has been at the center of the semiconductor industry in the United States,” said Anca Matica, a spokesperson for Governor Tina Kotek. 50 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

ANDY WARHOL’S ENDANGERED SPECIES FROM THE COLLECTIONS OF JORDAN D. SCHNITZER AND HIS FAMILY FOUNDATION

HIGHDESERTMUSEUM.ORG

MADE POSSIBLE BY

WITH SUPPORT FROM

School Field Trips

r e , v Learn o c s i D & Pl ay At the Sustainable Agriculture and Energy Center, our mission is hands-on learning and Center education through fun and interactive exhibits. Watch a potato turn into curly fries. Try your hand at milking a cow or driving a tractor. Browse our gift shop and finish your visit with a serving of delicious Tillamook ice cream!

VISIT

.COM

Facility Rentals

Plan your Oregon Adventure

Interactive Exhibits!

101 OLSON ROAD, BOARDMAN, OR Visit our website for hours or call 541.481.7243

what i’m working on

Fishing with Fisher The confluence of Oregon rivers and natural history written by Grant Stringer WITH A NAME like Lance Fisher, the “It’s just a new normal,” Fisher said. native Oregonian didn’t have much a The upshot for fishing: As fish runs choice when deciding what his line of dwindled, the sport became less acceswork would be. For more than twenty sible to the average Oregonian, he said. years, Fisher has guided clients on fishBut there are still a “plethora of oping expeditions off the Oregon Coast and portunities if you have the right boat,” on the great Columbia and Willamette he said. The season for winter steelhead rivers. He was already obsessed with kicks off in January or February, Fisher fishing as a tot, so the choice was easy. said, followed by spring runs of Chi“It’s certainly serendipitous, if you nook, otherwise known as king salmon. will,” Fisher said. “I wanted to do this On the coast, spring is also the season since I was 6 years old.” for rockfish and lingcod, a species with Through his guide service, sharp canine-like teeth and MORE ONLINE Lance Fisher Fishing, he’s takprodigious fins. Visit www.lancefisher en thousands of clients to try For Fisher, the beauty of fishing.com to get in their luck for Chinook salm- touch with Lance Fisher fishing is not just the act of and his team, or call on, albacore tuna, sturgeon— hauling one in on the line. It’s 866-261-5047. the prehistoric-looking gicommuning with nature and ants—and more from three locations in experiencing our priceless natural reOregon: Astoria, Newport and Portland. sources with a good crew. With clients, Fisher has always held a deep affinity he’s watched humpback whales gobble for oceans and rivers. As a kid grow- anchovies and pods of feeding Orcas ing up in Oregon, he remembers the that enter the Columbia at its mouth. days when you could take a bus to the At times like these, he said, you just put Clackamas or Sandy rivers and fish your your rod down and watch the magic. heart out. He’d walk the banks of Eagle Fisher contracts with about a dozen Creek in the Columbia River Gorge, rod guides, and he loves guiding himself. in hand, and catch winter steelhead. The He’s a conversationalist and an expert mighty Columbia River is a perpetual on natural history, especially when it source of awe for Fisher. The waterway, comes to salmon. Fisher once hosted a which is the fourth-largest in the coun- live, two-hour radio show where he’d try, was once home to an annual popula- talk to folks on all sides of salmon contion of up to 15 million salmon. servation, from tribal nations who have “There is nothing like the Columbia led the charge to reintroduce migraRiver—in the world,” Fisher said. tory fish to recreational and commercial Oregon’s fisheries are a different ani- fishermen. mal today due to the longstanding im“I know what the Columbia River— pacts of industrialization and popula- and all of our rivers—can do,” Fisher said. tion growth, as well as newer challenges Fisher said guiding is more imporposed by drought and climate change. tant than ever; most folks don’t have The health of migratory fish like salm- the resources to invest in a $100,000 on is the subject of renewed focus by boat capable of traversing the Columbia the federal and state governments, but estuary or the turbulent waters of the so far, billions of dollars of investment Pacific. And when fish aren’t flying off haven’t yielded much progress. A slew the hook, it takes a special kind of guide of struggling salmon populations have to hold the space for clients to learn been listed under the Endangered Spe- about local ecology and natural history, cies Act since the 1990s. he said. 52

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Anglers fish for salmon on the Columbia River near the mouth of the Klickitat on a Lance Fisher Fishing outing.

“I know what the Columbia River— and all of our rivers—can do.” — Lance Fisher, fishing guide at Lance Fisher Fishing

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

my workspace

A Call for Community In rural Oregon, a family rebuilds foundations, piece by blessed piece written and photographed by Joni Kabana

54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

my workspace

Imagine yourself as a young girl, riding horses in moonlit snowy backcountry alongside your grandfather, a man as feisty as they come. Then he looks at you and starts reciting poetry that brings tears to your eyes. Becky Clark can hardly get words out as she recalls the love she has for her late grandfather, Robert Daniel Rotthoff, known to many as “Popie.” Many a day was spent riding in his “ratty old pickup” along bumpy, rockfilled roads as he sang songs to her and peppered her with quirky yet meaningful life lessons that still guide her decisions today.

Just before Rotthoff died, Clark and her husband, Bryon Clark, were enjoying a bantering, large family Thanksgiving dinner in 2017 when Rotthoff threw down a challenge gauntlet and slyly remarked, “You know, you boys could move the church to your ranch.” The church he was referring to was an old church that he had taken upon himself, a self-taught learner of all that he ever did, to give sermons, recite poetry and sing a song or two in the church’s heyday in Long Creek.

Being ranchers who never shy away from a challenge, the men at the table collectively said an enthusiastic, “ Yes!” Becky Clark seconded the motion, and thus began the process of bringing what is now called RimRock Canyon Church & Cottage at the 32 Ranch to the small town of Spray, where the Clark family’s 6,000-acre ranch is located.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Patrick Farrell

my workspace

A wedding recently held inside the RimRock Canyon Church & Cottage at the 32 Ranch.

The church was sawed into pieces, lifted and loaded onto flatbed trucks in May 2018 and stealthily driven in the middle of the night to its new digs, the Clark’s 32 Ranch situated on land with killer desert landscape views. In early 2022, the Clark family painstakingly reassembled and painted the church, split it into two buildings to create a separate rentable cottage, and now hosts weddings, dinner parties, birthday celebrations and other events. Popie Rotthoff, with his lifelong love for bringing humanity together, would be so proud. Rotthoff, who frequently claimed he “never had a bad day in his life” even though he faced numerous intense hardships, passed in 2019 just before the repurposed church opened to the public once again. Today the old church stands isolated against a grove of trees facing west so sunsets can solicit memories of a girl and her grandpappy trodding alongside each other in no hurry whatsoever to reach home before dark.

LEARN MORE

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

For more information, visit www.the32ranch.com. Read more about Popie Rotthoff in his book A Family Blessed, available via Amazon.

CHOOSE YOUR PET-FRIENDLY STAY

861 SW 51st Street LINCOLN CITY

Planning a trip with your four-legged friend? Stay at one of Westover Inns’ three dog-friendly hotels on the Oregon Coast, and enjoy a beautiful ocean-view room in Lincoln City or Cannon Beach. Each dog guest receives a basket to use during their stay with dog bowls, sheets, towels, pet waste bags, and treats. Our family-owned hotels are ready to host your family, again and again.

541.996.3996 lookingglassinn.com

120 NW Inlet Court LINCOLN CITY 541.994.4121 shearwaterinn.com

3339 S. Hemlock Street CANNON BEACH 503.436.1577 thewayside-inn.com

Everyone Needs a

Beach Buddy

Photos: Portland Community College

game changer

For more than sixty years, Portland Community College has been a bedrock of education for generations of students.

Scholarly Goals Aiming to build a better Portland, community college foundation sets audacious student aid goal written by James Sinks

WHEN IT COMES to higher learning in Oregon, nobody teaches more people—and in more places—than Portland Community College. Opened in 1961, the school has grown to four separate campuses plus ten satellite classroom and career centers, scattered across the metropolitan area from Newberg to Scappoose to Swan Island. And at them, you’ll find almost 50,000 students pursuing both academic degrees and professional certifications that run the gamut from dental hygiene to firefighting to aircraft maintenance. 58

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

You’ll also find people trying to climb upward from poverty into the middle class. As is the case across the state’s seventeen community colleges, a significant number of attendees are overcoming personal and financial obstacles in pursuit of better lives for themselves, and also for the places they call home. Understanding that wealth ought not be an obstacle to education and ambition, the Portland college doles out millions in scholarships annually thanks to the largesse of the Portland Community College Foundation. The fundraising nonprofit was born in 1982, and among its parents was then-college development director Vera Katz, who would later become Portland mayor and the Oregon Legislature’s first woman Speaker of the House. Yet while PCC may claim the largest number of college-going Oregonians, its scholarship fund remains decidedly paltry when compared to those at the state’s universities. In 2022, Oregon State University’s foundation managed an endowment valued at $769 million. At the University of Oregon, it was $1.4 billion. And at Portland State University, the endowment was worth $98 million. Portland Community College Foundation’s? $17 million. With advice from a volunteer investment committee, the endowment currently produces returns that—coupled with the

From dental hygiene to welding, Portland Community College students can pursue various academic programs and certifications at PCC’s four campuses.

current level of annual donations—allowed 1,600 students share less than $10 million a year. She estimates that the endowment $2.2 million in financial help in 2021-22. will need to be about eighty times bigger than it is now, in Many of those recipients were first-generation college-goers today’s dollars. like Portland’s Jonathan Trapero, who decided after working in To get there, the foundation is attempting to raise its profile sales for five years to study to become a lawyer. with local industries who need trained workers, and also with “When you are working full time just to pay to live, it’s hard well-heeled donors. To date, the foundation’s largest and most to go back to school,” he said. “My family stepped up to support reliable donor base has been retired faculty, she said. me, and PCC helped, too,” via an While generous, those donors academic scholarship and also alone—there were about 1,800 the foundation’s Urgent Need people in 2021-22—can’t supply Fund, which assists with housthe exponential growth needing, healthcare and food. ed to put PCC on par with the With stories like Trapero’s, state’s best-supported university the foundation is aiming higher. endowments. Much higher. In addition to scholarships, the — Christina Kline, Portland Community College The lofty goal: Within a half foundation helps pay for college Foundation executive director century, nobody will be denied programming and also brokers access to an education at Portbusiness donations of equipment land Community College due to financial need, said PCC Foun- like a decommissioned airplane from Alaska Airlines that helps dation Executive Director Christina Kline. students learn how to repair plane engines. The formal mission Even at community colleges, higher education doesn’t come of the nonprofit is “removing barriers to education at Portland cheap, and the government steps in to a significant degree: Eli- Community College through the power of partnerships.” gible students can access grants and loans via the state and fedThe stakes are high not just for the college and potentially mileral financial aid like Pell Grants. But that assistance level falls lions of future students, but for the entire metro region. far short of offsetting the entirety of student needs. After all, nothing less than the economic future of Portland— That’s where the foundation steps in, but only with small and really, the state as a whole—is connected directly to edustrides at the moment. cation, and the ability to successfully prepare the workforce of Today, only a third of the students who request help even get a today and tomorrow. dime from the foundation, Kline said. “We want to be able to say “It’s a bold goal,” Kline said, “and it’s important for all of us.” to every single student that we believe in their journey,” she said. That won’t be inexpensive, and Kline freely admits they’ve To learn more or support the Portland Community College MORE ONLINE Foundation, visit www.pcc.edu/foundation set a doozy of a target for an organization that now attracts

“We want to be able to say to every single student that we believe in their journey.”

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 59

The remote Minam River Lodge is accessible only on foot, on horseback or by small chartered airplane. (photo: Evan G. Schneider/ Minam River Lodge)

60 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

OREGON DESTINATIONS

FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELER written by Jean Chen Smith

ith limited time between work, family and other commitments, a vacation is something I look forward to from the moment I decide where I’m going. As we welcome 2024 and begin to plan for the year ahead, we look to new destinations, and new experiences. Why not try something new this year based on the type of traveler you already are? Choose your own journey— here are nine of our favorite spots.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 61

The windswept beauty of Pacific City’s Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area. (photo: Tillamook Coast Visitors Association)

Adventures in Pacific City are greatly supported by a retreat to Headlands Coastal Lodge. (photos: Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa)

THE

ROMANTIC

PICK: PACIFIC CITY As you arrive at the entrance of Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa, you will be struck by the spectacular views of this oceanfront property. Located alongside the Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area, this elegant hotel features thirty-three upscale guest rooms, along with spacious cottages. Both offer sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Haystack Rock. Watch the sunset from your private balcony with your sweetheart, or cuddle by the fireplace during the winter. Some guest rooms feature soaking tubs. Book a spa treatment at Tidepools, where you will be immersed

in rest and relaxation as wellness experts customize your experience. The signature Marine Moisture Drench, a comprehensive ninetyminute service, includes dry brushing, a detoxifying wrap and shea butter to moisturize. Do not miss dinner at Meridian, serving Pacific Northwest cuisine at its finest, while enjoying ocean views. The restaurant focuses on local and seasonal ingredients, so look forward to fresh seafood, local fruit and ethically sourced meat and fish. Stay: Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa, 33000 Cape Kiwanda Drive, Pacific City, www.headlandslodge.com

62 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

THE

ZEN SEEKER PICK: HOOD RIVER Sakura Ridge Farm & Lodge is nestled at the foothills of Mount Hood, approximately a fifteen-minute drive to the quaint, but popular, town of Hood River. The 22-acre, certified-organic working farm is owned by Nashi Orchards, best known for its award-winning apple and pear ciders. On the property, they grow pears, apples, peaches, a variety of berries and plums. The eco-luxury bed-and-breakfast has five rooms, featuring Japanese minimalist design with cherry wood headboards, vintage East Asian cabinets, custom rugs and authentic artwork. Some rooms have soaking tubs and private balconies. Walk the property and its orchards, connecting with nature amid peace and quiet. A homemade breakfast prepared by a professional chef is included with your stay, using farm-fresh eggs from

Sakura’s happy hens and ingredients from local Hood River purveyors. For off-property activities, head to the Hood River Waterfront Park, where you can see kitesurfers and parasailers blowing in the wind. The waterfront stretches for 2 miles, which is a flat and easy walk. Downtown Hood River gives visitors a chance to get in some retail therapy. Check out Zencare, which offers holistic treatments such as massage and light therapy to promote healing. Whether you are enjoying the fireplace in the great room and meeting other guests or sitting on the deck enjoying the views of Mount Hood, you will find tranquility in this sacred spot. The property is open from April 1 through November 30. Stay: Sakura Ridge Farm & Lodge, 5610 York Hill Drive, Hood River, www.sakuraridge.com

While staying at Sakura Ridge Farm & Lodge, be sure to pop over to Hood River and explore its waterfront and downtown areas. (photo: Katie Falkenberg/ TravelOregon.com)

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 63

THE

BUDGETCONSCIOUS PICK: WELCHES

Did you know, just an hour outside of Portland, Mt. Hood Tiny House Village offers adorable and comfortable accommodations for travelers on a budget? There are seven distinctive tiny homes to choose from, with the smallest starting at 175 square feet. The Lincoln offers a kitchen and full bathroom and sleeps up to five people. At 261 square feet, the unit is also pet friendly for a $10 fee. The Ingrid home is slightly larger, with a living area that offers a pull-out sofa, a great option for cost-conscious families. Mount Hood National Forest is minutes from the village, with plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities. The Trillium Lake Loop Trail, an easy 2-mile hike, is a quiet route with stunning views of Mount Hood on sunny days. In the summer, rent kayaks and canoes from Clackamas River Outfitters and Blue Sky Rafting. Winter adventures include night skiing at Mt. Hood Skibowl, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Stay: Mt. Hood Tiny House Village, 65000 E. Highway 26, Welches, www.mthoodtinyhouse.com

Live large at Mt. Hood Tiny House Village surrounded by national forest. (photo: Mt. Hood Tiny House Village)

64 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Beachcomb with the family in Lincoln City. (photo: Cody Cha/Explore Lincoln City)

THE

FAMILY TRAVELER PICK: LINCOLN CITY Families will love The Coho Oceanfront Lodge for its spacious rooms and kid-friendly amenities. Book the Large Family Suite, which has two bedrooms, in addition to a pullout sleeper sofa, and two bathrooms. There is a well-equipped kitchen for added convenience and a large balcony for dinners outside. A large flatscreen TV and DVD player keep little ones busy if the weather is bad outside. Some suites include Xbox systems.

The property features an indoor heated swimming pool, along with a jacuzzi and sauna. Families can enjoy a complimentary hot breakfast each morning before heading out to enjoy the Oregon Coast. This beachfront property is less than a mile from Devil’s Lake State Recreation Area, where there are plenty of hiking trails and opportunities for water sports. Stay: The Coho Oceanfront Lodge, 1635 NW Harbor Ave., Lincoln City, www.thecoholodge.com

ABOVE AND AT LEFT The Coho Oceanfront Lodge offers families room to kick back on the Oregon Coast without draining their budgets. (photos: The Coho Oceanfront Lodge)

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 65

THE

FOODIE PICK: BEND

There is no place that satisfies all my culinary checklists like Bend. With so many restaurants to choose from, it’s always difficult to pick a favorite. Rancher Butcher Chef recently opened in the NorthWest Crossing section of Bend. The contemporary butcher counter and steakhouse is a casually elegant dining experience, with sustainability and classic plates being the focus. Served family-style, seasonal ingredients are always represented, along with the Veracruz octopus cocktail and housemade brioche popups being absolutely must-haves on the list of appetizers. My absolute favorites here are the Japanese Miyazaki striploin and Snake River Farms ribeye. For casual bites, you cannot go wrong with their bistro burger and well-seasoned fries. For some seriously authentic Italian food, head to Trattoria Sbandati, a Bend mainstay since 2009. Family-owned and operated, reflecting owner Juri Sbandati’s Tuscan roots, the menu features housemade pastas, savory sauces and delicious desserts, along with an extensive wine and cocktail selection. The town is home to many healthy eating options as well, such as NW Raw Organic Juice Bar, which serves organic and plant-based juices and foods. Make the Campfire Hotel your homebase. Conveniently located off Highway 97, this chic hotel has comfortable rooms with flatscreen TVs, an outdoor pool and hot tub, and a fire pit. The Happy Camper Suite has two bedrooms, one of which features bunk beds, which is great for families traveling with small children. The suite also has a living room and spacious bathroom. Stay: Campfire Hotel, 721 NE 3rd St., Bend, www.campfirehotel.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Rancher Butcher Chef serves steaks and elegance in NorthWest Crossing. Campfire Hotel is a hip retreat in the heart of Bend. Homemade goodness from Trattoria Sbandati. (photos, clockwise from top: Tyler Valzania/Rancher Butcher Chef, Campfire Hotel, Trattoria Sbandati)

66 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

THE

HISTORY BUFF PICK: IDLEYLD PARK Set within the Umpqua National Forest on a hilltop overlooking the North Umpqua River, the Steamboat Inn has a rich history of hospitality. Set across 23 acres, the resort presents visitors a chance to disconnect from technology as it has no wifi, TVs or phones. Taking a step back in time and slowing down the pace presents opportunities for connecting with nature and bonding with friends and family. The river is best known as a yearround fly-fishing destination. However, be sure to check for angling closures, as low numbers of returning wild summer steelhead have prompted temporary closures in recent years by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife. The inn offers two suites, a collection of cabins, cottages and larger houses for visitors to rest their weary heads. The day café serves breakfast and lunch, with seasonal dinner service. The restaurant uses fresh and local ingredients, opting for organic when

possible. Dishes are made from scratch, reflecting Pacific Northwest fare. Visit the library to peruse the collection of titles on hand and curl up by the fireplace as you read and sip a glass of wine or hot chocolate. Visitors can also book a private massage service after a day of fly-fishing or hiking. Stay: Steamboat Inn, 42705 N. Umpqua Highway, Idleyld Park, www.thesteamboatinn.com

A true escape at the Steamboat Inn. (photo: Steamboat Inn)

Fishing on the North Umpqua River hooks people to the Steamboat Inn. (photo: Experience Roseburg)

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 67

THE

INTREPID EXPLORER PICK: EAGLE CAP WILDERNESS For those looking for adventure, lace up your boots and hike the roughly 8.5 miles to Minam River Lodge, which rests in the Eagle Cap Wilderness in the state’s northeastern corner. The hike into the property is not for the faint hearted. Guests carry their own essentials, so you will want to make sure the weight is manageable. The hike typically takes around four hours, depending on your fitness level. Other options for getting to Minam include horseback riding or booking a chartered plane. A flight takes twenty minutes from the nearby Enterprise Municipal Airport and approximately forty minutes from Portland International Airport. At more than 350,000 acres, the Eagle Cap Wilderness is the largest wilderness area in the state. In 2011, native Oregonian Barnes Ellis, who had fond memories of visiting the area as a child, purchased

the 126-acre Minam property along with the previous lodge, which had fallen into disrepair. Today the property offers three types of accommodations including the main lodge, rustic cabins and wall tents for a glamping experience. The main lodge hosts two well-appointed rooms, which share a hallway bathroom, and its Eagle Cap Suite. The suite is spacious with a private bathroom and floorto-ceiling windows overlooking the property. A free-standing copper tub for soaking tired muscles is the highlight of the suite. There are nine cabin offerings, and visitors can find special touches such as waterfall showers, cozy wood stoves and luxuriously soft linens for a restful sleep. Three tents with comfortable queen beds share a bath house. Stay: Minam River Lodge, Eagle Cap Wilderness, Wallowa-Whitman National Forest, www.minam-lodge.com

68 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

FROM TOP Minam River Lodge in northeastern Oregon’s Eagle Cap Wilderness. Rewarding views from the deck of the Minam River Lodge. Find rustic beauty in the lodge’s guest cabins. (photos, from top: Koi Ellis/Minam River Lodge, Evan G. Schneider/Minam River Lodge, Evan G. Schneider/Minam River Lodge)

The Looking Glass Inn in Lincoln City is a good choice for people and pets.

THE

DOG LOVER

PICK: LINCOLN CITY If you are anything like me, then you will bring your pup on your travels. Lincoln City is one of the most dog-friendly places along the Oregon Coast. The Looking Glass Inn welcomes your canine with a basket of amenities including dog sheets, towels, dog bowls and treats to use during their visit. Located in the historic section of the city, the Looking Glass allows a maximum of two pups per room for a fee of $20 per pet per night. Rooms and suites are spacious and decorated in neutral tones with pops of greens and blues, reminiscent of the ocean. Some rooms include a whirlpool tub, fireplace and sitting area. Larger suites feature kitchenettes. The beaches are dog friendly, provided they are always on a leash. This is a huge deal for us because our pups love the ocean. Spend some time beachcombing for agates and seashells. If you are lucky, you might spot a gray whale, which are known to inhabit the area year-round. There are additional activities you can check out as your four-legged friend rests after a full day of romping. Spend some time at the Lincoln City Culinary Center, where you can take a class or workshop to refine your home cooking endeavors. Lincoln City is home to one of the biggest discount outlet malls in Oregon, so pop in for a visit. Book a treatment at Rejuvenation Spa, which offers massage therapy, hydrotherapy and acupuncture.

THE

The Allison Inn lies at the intersection of luxury and beauty in Oregon’s wine country. (photo: The Allison Inn & Spa)

CONNOISSEUR PICK: NEWBERG

The Allison Inn & Spa is the epitome of luxury and refined hospitality. Nestled within the Willamette Valley on 35 beautifully landscaped acres, rooms have gas fireplaces, bay window seats and private balconies. Indulge in your soaking tub with artisan sea salts provided by the resort. Order in-room dining, or make reservations at the highly acclaimed Jory restaurant, which focuses on Pacific Northwest cuisine. Dishes

are creatively prepared, highlighting partnerships with local sources. Book a treatment at the spa, a 15,000-square-foot facility with a swimming pool, whirlpool, showers, sauna and steam rooms. With over a dozen wineries nearby, art galleries and hiking trails, The Allison sets the stage for an extravagant journey. Stay: The Allison Inn & Spa, 2525 Allison Lane, Newberg, www.theallison.com

Sometimes you’re the canvas at the spa at the Allison Inn. (photo: The Allison Inn & Spa)

Stay: Looking Glass Inn, 861 SW 51st St., Lincoln City, www.lookingglassinn.com

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 69

Bull kelp forests thrive in Oregon’s cold, nutrient-rich waters near shore. But rising ocean temperatures, along with overgrazing by purple sea urchins, threaten kelp’s survival and ability to provide essential habitat for fish, marine mammals and birds. (photo: Brandon Cole)

ENCHANTING KELP FORESTS written by Kerry Newberry

EMERGING FROM the tiny coastal town of Port Orford, a dedicated crew of marine scientists, commercial urchin divers, conservationists, tribal members, tour guides, drone pilots, SCUBA and free divers, and chefs have rallied together from various perspectives, but with a shared goal: to protect and restore kelp forests along the Oregon Coast. The Oregon Kelp Alliance (ORKA) formed in 2017, when divers and scientists first noticed a decline in bull kelp forests near Orford Reef and Nellies Cove on Oregon’s south coast. “Kelp forests provide critical habitat for a diversity of marine life and absorb large amounts of carbon,” said Tom Calvanese, the station manager for the Port Orford Field Station and director of ORKA. “And in many places, we are losing them.” The rapid decline of kelp forests is a global phenomenon—a result of rising ocean temperatures, along with overgrazing by species like spiny purple sea urchins, which can mow through an entire kelp forest in one season and turn an area into an urchin barren. These spectacular underwater forests are biodiversity hot spots and sustain thousands of marine creatures from tiny shrimp and colorful sea stars to fish, seals and whales. It’s a world that few of us see. “What we’ve learned in the last few years is how important it is to capture underwater imagery of these organisms and systems,” said Calvanese. Most visitors to the coast might see a pile of bull kelp (called “wrack”) when winter storms wash up the long fronds and stipes that form lines along beaches. “But it’s when we get divers and photographers below the surface, that’s when we can bring the world of kelp forests to life for everyone,” he said. Learn more at www.oregonkelp.com. MORE INSIDE

Discover the culinary world of seaweed and urchin at the upcoming Winter Waters event on pg. 30

70 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

A research scientist comes up for air while snorkeling in Nellies Cove. In addition to removing urchins, research divers have plans to enhance the kelp forest by planting kelp and potentially translocating urchin-eating sea stars. Trained scuba divers can contact ORKA about participating in a kelp-restoration project near them. (photo: Justin Myers)

One can often see gray whales feeding on the edges of a kelp forest, a hot spot for mysid shrimp (a type of zooplankton). ORKA’s current research uses aerial drones to survey kelp forests and areas where there should be kelp forests. This photo shows what a healthy kelp forest looks like from above. (photo: Dr. Sara Hamilton)

74 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Tom Calvanese, an urchin diver turned fisheries scientist, is also the station manager for the Port Orford Field Station for Oregon State University and the director of the Oregon Kelp Alliance. Here, he’s on an urchin-monitoring dive near Port Orford Heads State Park, one of the areas experiencing urchin barrens. When an urchin population dominates due to a lack of natural predators, they graze on kelp to the point that little or no kelp remains. The thriving ecosystem and biodiversity hot spot that kelp provides disappears, and instead you see only purple sea urchins. (photo: Justin Myers) A sunflower sea star is perched in Nellies Cove near Port Orford. More than a decade ago, a disease called “sea star wasting disease” killed billions of sea stars along the Eastern Pacific Coast from Mexico to Alaska and wiped out Oregon’s population of sunflower sea stars. While many species of sea stars have since rebounded—from ochre sea stars to the morning sun star—the urchin-eating sunflower sea star is listed as critically endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature and is currently being considered for listing by NOAA Fisheries. (photo: Caroline Rice) The red abalone depends on drift kelp for food. In areas dominated by an overpopulation of sea urchins, these sea snails, already experiencing low populations, have a difficult time competing for food. (photo: Bob Pool)

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 75

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 78 ADVENTURE 80 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86

pg. 86 The romance of Oregon’s covered bridges spans Cottage Grove.

Colin Morton/Eugene, Cascades & Coast

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92

The hills (and beaches, rainforests, trails, and towns) are alive with silence.

It’s ofﬁcial. The summer crowds have vanished and the slooow season has arrived. Get in sync with our quiet season … more nature, more space and a slower pace on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula.

OlympicPeninsula.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The historic Shaniko Hotel reopened in August 2023 after a sixteenyear closure. The hotel features eighteen rooms. A historical photo shows a Shaniko of days gone by. A checkerboard sits in the lobby of the hotel.

78 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

travel spotlight

The lobby of the recently reopened Shaniko Hotel.

Ghost Town in Sheep’s Clothing Shaniko was once known as the “wool capital of the world”—today, a historic hotel reopens written and photographed by Joni Kabana SOME OREGON towns are considered ghost towns (or nearly ghost towns) because of their intact-yetleaning western-style buildings, remnants of root cellars and the occasional haunted homestead house. Few, however, compare to the tiny yet mighty town of Shaniko, current population of thirty-two. Situated in Wasco County on Route 97, Shaniko was once referred to as the “Wool Capital of the World” as it was a regional hub of wool, wheat, cattle and sheep production for 20,000 square miles. By 1904, total annual sales hit $5 million, an astronomical sum in those days. By 1911, the Oregon-Washington Railroad and Navigation Company began diverting traffic on another route, bypassing Shaniko, and the town began its steady decline. They say a sheep rancher is one hearty soul, and while many left the region as sales dropped off, the spirit of perseverance holds on in Shaniko as a historical time capsule hometown

and destination. The newly renovated Shaniko Hotel promises a resurgence of offerings to enhance the current repertoire of activities and places of interest in this heritage site. The Shaniko Hotel, built in 1902 by the Columbia Southern Railway at the southern terminus of its line, once hosted a dance hall, saloon, bank and stagecoach stop, and it served as the town’s gathering place. Recently renovated, the hotel is now open to visitors offering eighteen rooms and a fancy-dancy master suite, all having a coveted view of Mount Hood and the vast Eastern Oregon high desert landscape. Events are held periodically in the town, but anytime you go you will find astonishing surprises down each street in the historic districts, which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Book now at www. shanikohotel.com before this storybook gem is more widely discovered. And don’t let the ghosts bother you. They are there for a good time.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 79

adventure Southeastern Oregon’s Alvord Desert is one of the state’s darkest places to ogle stars and the Milky Way.

Oregon’s Top 8 Places to Stargaze Going beyond light pollution for celestial arrays OUTSIDE OF Oregon’s metropolitan areas lies a celestial sanctuary, where expansive landscapes, high desert elevation and commitment to preserving natural darkness create ideal astrotourism opportunities for stargazers. With two designated International Dark Sky Places in Central Oregon and remote destinations hundreds of miles away from light pollution, Oregon offers cosmo lovers an abundance of stargazing options throughout the state. 80

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

Joey Hamilton/TravelOregon.com

written by Jen Sotolongo

STAY AND GAZE IN PRINEVILLE, OREGON

Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive

(541) 385-3062

adventure

CENTRAL OREGON Central Oregon is a haven for stargazing enthusiasts thanks to its high desert location and frequent clear skies. Dedicated to preserving night skies, the region is home to two designated International Dark Sky Places offering ample opportunities to stare into night skies. From the Prineville Reservoir to dedicated observatories, Central Oregon offers a celestial symphony for all to enjoy.

Prineville Reservoir: Oregon’s First Dark Sky Park In May 2021, Prineville Reservoir became Oregon’s first state park to earn certification as an International Dark Sky Park, one of fewer than 200 places in the world to earn the designation. The park offers free astronomy programs that run from Memorial Day to Labor Day on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. Rangers use lasers to point out constellations, and visitors can get up close and personal with the moon thanks to “Big Doug,” the 16-inch-diameter telescope. Camping is available at the park.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Steens Mountain at night. Dee Wright Observatory in Central Oregon. Many families visit the Sunriver Nature Center & Observatory outside of Bend.

With its commitment to curbing light pollution, Central Oregon is understandably home to a number of observatories to indulge in an evening of stargazing under untainted skies. Pine Mountain Observatory, located outside of Bend, sits at 6,300 feet and has incredible visibility thanks to the variety of telescopes. Spend the night at Pine Mountain Campground just across from the observatory. Off of McKenzie Pass just outside of Sisters, Dee Wright Observatory is an open-air viewing platform situated in the middle of a lava flow. Built in 1935 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the observatory is only accessible during the summer and early fall and ideal for those looking for a remote viewing experience. The first designated IDA community in Oregon in 2020, Sunriver offers

Steve Heinrichs/Visit Central Oregon

Observatories

82 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

adventure

exceptional night sky viewing at the Sunriver Nature Center & Observatory. Visitors can take advantage of the three-dozen telescopes and seasonal nighttime interpretive programs.

EASTERN OREGON Known for its isolation, Eastern Oregon is worth the trip to check out the stars. Because of its location and minimal light pollution, the night sky views are some of the most captivating in the state. Camping opportunities are also ample in the region.

Southeast Oregon

Joey Hamilton/TravelOregon.com

The Alvord Desert, a flat playa framed by the Steens and Pueblo mountains, stands as a pristine canvas for celestial displays. Beneath the expansive night sky, visitors can witness meteor showers and the ethereal glow of the Milky Way. Renowned for its towering cliffs and sprawling vistas, Steens Mountain is the highest point in the Southeast Cascades, revealing a tapestry of stars that seems to stretch to infinity. Fish Lake Campground is the known spot to go for optimal viewing. The protected high desert landscapes of Hart Mountain make another optimal spot to enjoy the stars in Eastern Oregon. Similar to Steens Mountain, Hart Mountain towers over the surrounding landscape, making it a notable spot to catch an epic night sky.

Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument Named one of the Seven Wonders of Oregon for its colorful, otherworldly landscape by day, John Day Fossil Beds also happens to put on a show at night. With some of the darkest skies in the state, the remote location is known to put on a mesmerizing celestial show. For optimal gazing, consider visiting during meteor showers or other astronomical events.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 83

lodging

Photos: Inn the Ground

ROOMS Each of the spacious nine rooms features a king bed and small sofa along with a mini-fridge and complimentary tea and coffee. The spa-style shower and sprawling vanity are calming gray and honey oak hues. There’s Samsung HDTVs with an Apple TV connection, but you’ll want to unplug and relax on the private patio or around the fire pits, both spots with valley views.

WELLNESS

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The majority of Inn the Ground is set in the earth in wine country. Each room has a private patio and serene views. The common spaces are also perfect for sipping wine around a fire pit.

Inn the Ground

What sets this retreat apart from other wine country lodging is the quest to provide revitalizing wellness experiences. You’ll find 8 miles of wooded hiking trails that meander the farm campus along with a fitness center that includes a gym, tennis and pickleball court and yoga classes. (Look for upcoming retreats on sound baths, forest bathing and guided meditation.)

written by Kerry Newberry

DINING

WHEN THE setting sun hits Inn the Ground, wine country’s newest retreat, you’ll often see a family of deer frolic through the surrounding native grasses and wildflowers. It’s one of many serene scenes that unfold at this nine-room oasis located just outside of Carlton. Set in the hillside above a working regenerative farm, nature permeates all the spaces here. In the upper-level community rooms, you’ll find floor-to-ceiling windows that bring brightness even on rainy days. Walls are hung with contemporary artwork, often evoking the natural world, along with bookcases stocked with titles that focus on regenerative agriculture and social transformation (think Masanobu Fukuoka, Rebecca Solnit and Masaru Emoto). Designed to foster a deep connection to nature, two-thirds of the building is recessed into the land. As you walk downstairs to the rooms, you’ll gaze across the living roof, lush with seasonal grasses and flowers like sweet alyssum, daisies and clover. Come spring, wispy wild flowers grow waist-high. Nearby trails weave through woodlands with vistas that overlook pastures where a mix of heritage breed cows graze. MORE INSIDE The inn is the latest in a collective of enterprises from The Read more Ground, which includes Source Farms, Tabula Rasa Farms and about Humble Spirit in Dining McMinnville’s Humble Spirit. An ingenious vision, the foundon pg. 31 ers have been working toward a vertically integrated hospitality company for almost a decade. The presiding mantra is simple but also profound: deepen the connection between farms, food and people through hospitality.

Mornings start in the grand room where there’s a modern fireplace and spectacular views of seasonal wildflowers and fir trees that frame the estate. The daily breakfast flight includes green juice from justharvested garden greens, yogurt parfait with seeded honey and fruit preserves and signature eggs served with a slice of sweetheart ham and sourdough bread. For dinner, head to Humble Spirit, the culinary heart of The Ground collective.

15250 NW PANTHER CREEK ROAD CARLTON www.theground.love/stay/inn-the-ground

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

FARM LIFE Get a sense of place on the farm tour, a forty-five-minute ramble in a Rivian. You’ll learn about regenerative agriculture through visits to various pastures and plots, including the impressive four-acre market garden that supplies Humble Spirit and other wine country restaurants. The most memorable moments just might be meeting the farm crew from heritage-breed pigs and cows to the guard llamas, Lloyd and Harry, who preside over a flock of chickens.

Choo e your own Adventure. Choos

How will you fill your days at Black Butte Ranch? That’s totally up to you. From world-class golf and endless bike trails to pools, horseback riding and our signature spa, we offer countless activities, ranging from the extreme to the extremely relaxing. Plan your visit at BlackButteRanch.com

888-368-8598 BlackButteRanch.com

trip planner

Cottage Grove When it’s time for romance, plant a kiss in Cottage Grove written by James Sinks

IN YESTERYEAR, covered bridges also were known as kissing bridges. Some say it’s because the seclusion offered a seductive smooching opportunity. Or, because horses slowed to a walking gait to pass through, it became much easier to wink and lean into a lip-lock. And for the superstitious, a kiss represented a wish for luck, as covered bridges were known to sometimes house bats and other scary critters.

Whatever the reason, or the season, the spans remain a perfect place to practice your pucker. And in Oregon, you’ll find opportunities aplenty surrounding the hamlet of Cottage Grove, dubbed the Covered Bridge Capital of the West. So if you’re hoping for some kissing on Valentine’s Day—or any day, really—the town just might be the mood enhancer you’re looking for. “If you are a city nightlife person, then Cottage Grove is probably not the right spot. But if you love nature and a small-town feel, there is romance everywhere,” said Alyssa Gomez, the owner of Sweet Springs Family Farm Bed & Breakfast, south of town. When couples book the farm’s quaint cottage, Gomez gets out “all the fuzzies,” including a furry rug in front of the fireplace and—if desired—a one-night adoption of one of their long-eared, soft-as-snow Holland lop rabbits. Also among surprising local pictureperfect places to stay is Lakeside Villa, an Italian-style mansion with guest

suites, a music room, formal gardens and a footbridge straight out of a Monet painting. Fifteen minutes from Eugene and home to 10,500 people, Cottage Grove initially grew thanks to the most romantic of metals, gold in the nearby mountains. Eventually, like much of the South Willamette valley, the economy came to rely on farming and lumber, and the local Weyerhaeuser mill saws are still spinning. Prior to white homesteaders’ arrival, the region was home to Yoncalla Kalapuyan Indians, led in the mid-1850s by a popular chief named Halotish, or Halo for short. The former chief’s village once sat along the Row River, which weaves out of the Umpqua National Forest and swirls underneath several covered bridges. Chances are, you’ll see a bit of the scenic waterway during your stay. Except, of course, when you close your eyes and pucker.

Dubbed the Covered Bridge Capital of the West, Cottage Grove is the place for romance and nostalgia. (photo: Joni Kabana/Eugene, Cascades & Coast)

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2024

1859 Oregon's Magazine | January/February 2024

Articles inside

Meet Oregon's New State Vegetable

Oregon Destinations for Every Type of Traveler