STUNNING AND LUXURIOUS BY DESIGN
Oregon’s Magazine
RANGE ROVER VELAR
TRIP PLANNER: REDMOND PG. 88
Goat Cheese Ravioli
DIY Wine Barrel Accent Wall
Astoria’s Meat Bingo
March | April 2019 THE DRINKS ISSUE
Beyond the legendary capabilities that come with 70 years of Land Rover heritage, the new Range Rover Velar design philosophy is revolutionary. Clean, elegant and distinctive.
Libation
Vacations
Combining avant-garde design with time honored engineering excellence, the new Range Rover Velar is the latest iteration of the Official Vehicle of the Northwest Experience. Visit Land Rover Portland to experience the all new Range Rover Velar. 1859magazine.com
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THINK
EXPLORE
OREGON
March | April
volume 56
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MARCH | APRIL 2019
Doggone Adorable photography by Bradley Lanphear If the worst happens at Mt. Bachelor or Mt. Hood Meadows, know this—you’re in good hands, er, paws. The avalanche dogs at our area’s ski resorts are highly trained, ready to sniff you out of a snow cave and save you from certain disaster. Dogs like Riggins, shown here, undergo extensive training and learn specialized skills like running between skis, riding lifts and sniffing humans to safety. (pg. 66)
MARCH | APRIL 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 3
FEATURES
Bend Brewing Co.’s recent renovations added more outdoor seating, and the beer remains excellent.
MARCH | APRIL 2019 • volume 56
60 Libation Vacations Make a weekend out of cocktails in Portland, wine in the Willamette Valley or beer in Bend. You’ll be glad you did.
The Mighty Creature Company
written by Amira Makansi and Sheila G. Miller
66
74
Running With the Big Dogs
The Offbeat Bonnet Vault
At Mt. Bachelor and Mt. Hood ski resorts, there are four-legged heroes happy to help you in your time of greatest need. Meet the state’s avalanche dogs.
The National Hat Museum combines quirkiness with deep history, and it’s all waiting for you in a Victorian home in Southeast Portland.
written by Amy Korst
photography by Jason Quigley
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DEPARTMENTS
LIVE 16 NOTEBOOK
MARCH | APRIL 2019 • volume 56
Spring has sprung, and we’ve got ideas to get you outside. Plus—a book dedicated to pairing your reads with your drinks.
22 FOOD + DRINK
What if we told you beer cocktails were a thing? Learn to make them with our Beerlandia writer, then indulge in Portland Dining Month and a gustatory journey through the Southern Oregon Coast.
28 FARM TO TABLE
Erin Riddle at KLiK Concepts
Making goat cheese is no picnic—long hours, lots of goats, and then you do it all again the next day. But goat cheese is the perfect addition to any picnic, and Rivers Edge Chévre is among Oregon’s best.
36
36 HOME + DESIGN
One wine country home in the Dundee Hills proves that form and function go a long way toward elegance and charm. Get into the spirit yourself with a DIY wine barrel wall.
42 MIND + BODY
Carson Storch is a professional freerider, bombing down mountainsides on a bike. He’s also a huge proponent of promoting brain health initiatives.
44 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
48
The Oregon Wine L.A.B. in Eugene knows that a good label can be as important as the wine inside the bottle.
THINK 48 STARTUP
Freeland Spirits has set out to create equal-opportunity drinking with its woman-owned distillery.
52 WHAT’S GOING UP
New hotels around Oregon are popping up to fuel your travel dreams.
54 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
What does it take to identify and create a new wine appellation, and why bother? We talked to a winemaker who is seeking to do just that.
56 MY WORKSPACE
56
Bill Purcell
North Fork 53 is a bed-and-breakfast with a new passion—growing its own tea plants.
58 GAME CHANGER
The Heart of the Valley Homebrewers do a lot more than brew their own beer—they’re raising money to help their community at the same time.
12 13 94 96
Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
EXPLORE 82 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Meat bingo? You read that right—at one tavern in Astoria, the event draws crowds ready to bring home the bacon.
84 ADVENTURE
A brewer set out to make beer on a dirt bike trip through Oregon’s high country—using only ingredients he picked up at Safeway.
86 LODGING
The new Woodlark Hotel in downtown Portland has something for everyone, including a cocktail bar straight out of Pinterest.
88 TRIP PLANNER
COVER
Don’t look now, but Redmond is fast becoming a Central Oregon destination in its own right.
photo by Aubrie LeGault Angel Face in Portland (see Libation Vacations, pg. 60)
92 NORTHWEST DESTINATION
Spokane is a great jumping-off point for adventure, but it’s also perfect for big city experiences.
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WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO
Bright and talented individuals like Dr. Kristina Young. She and her team of undeterred researchers at Providence Cancer Institute are giving it their all through clinical trials and progressive, new treatments like immunotherapy.
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CONTRIBUTORS
MATT WASTRADOWSKI Writer Adventure
AMY KORST Writer Running With the Big Dogs
BRADLEY LANPHEAR Photographer Running With the Big Dogs
JASON QUIGLEY Photographer Gallery
I first learned about Dave Marliave’s backroads brewing tour while reporting another story. He brought it up as an aside at the end of an hourlong conversation, so once I picked my jaw up off the floor, he walked me through the whole process—from the initial idea to chewing the grains to cracking open that first beer on what became a memorable podcast recording. (pg. 84)
For a few brief, glorious days while researching the avalanche dogs article for this issue, I got to live what is a dream for me—and all in a day’s work for Oregon ski patrollers. The ski patrol team at Mt. Bachelor gave me the royal avy dogs treatment, which included getting to ride on a chairlift with Riggins, the black lab, and being buried in a snow cave so Banyan, the golden retriever, could dig me out. Unforgettable. (pg. 66)
I spent nearly a decade volunteering in Search and Rescue, so it was quite a thrill to photograph this story. Memories of winter SAR training exercises in the thick forests of Pennsylvania came flooding back to me. Those experiences usually involved rucking through the woods on foot instead of being buried in a snow cave and rescued by a furry, four-footed hero. I never know what’s going to show up in my inbox from 1859, but it’s always an adventure. (pg. 66)
One of my favorite subjects to photograph is an interesting person in a quirky environment, so the National Hat Museum and its director, Lu Ann, were right up my alley. She was gracious, informative, patient, and had several elaborate wardrobe changes all lined up for the shoot. We spent half a day shooting, but it could have easily been longer given the wealth of material. I’d never heard of the place despite its long history in Portland. (pg. 74)
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I WORK FOR
FARM TO PINT You work hard so others can enjoy one of life’s simple pleasures: a frosty brew with family and friends. At SAIF, we work hard to make jobs safer and healthier, and to support workers when they get hurt. So at the end of the day, we can all kick back, relax, and celebrate a job well done.
Protecting Oregon’s workforce. saif.com
EDITOR Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
HOME GROWN CHEF BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Aaron Opsahl
Cindy Guthrie Jenn Redd Thor Erickson Jeremy Storton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Rod Chandler, Melissa Dalton, Michelle DeVona, Aliya Hall, Joni Kabana, Amy Korst, Amira Makansi, Sophia McDonald, Ben Salmon, Vanessa Salvia, Jen Stevenson, Mark Stock, Cara Strickland, Matt Wastradowski, Mackenzie Wilson
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Charlotte Dupont, Joni Kabana, Bradley Lanphear, Aubrie LeGault, Jon Christopher Meyers, Eugene Pavlov, Bill Purcell, Jason Quigley
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FROM THE EDITOR OREGON IS A place where the craft beer industry has thrived. It is a place where pinot noir-led wines have captured the attention of oenophiles everywhere. Oregon is an incubator for new and creative incarnations of traditional spirits. Libations are poured throughout this issue of 1859 as they are throughout the state— in good taste, in good measure and always on the cutting edge. Start with the inspiring story of three women who brought their complementary talents together around whiskey. Freeland Spirits in Portland is the collaboration of Eastern Oregon farmer-rancher Cory Carman; Jill Kuehler, formerly the executive director of teaching sustainable farm Zenger Farm in Portland; and master distiller Molly Troupe from Oregon Spirits Distillers in Bend. This trio now brings us local goodness in whiskey and gin available in the Freeland Spirits tasting room in Northwest Portland. See Startup on pg. 48. This summer or fall, don’t just plan a vacation, plan a tailored Libation Vacation. This story divides the state into three equal parts for wine lovers, beer drinkers and spirits sippers. We then put together compelling travel plans and itineraries around each passion. If you cherish quality and craft, you’ll build all three of these Libations Vacations (pg. 60) into your 2019 travel plans. Naturally, when you have an embarrassment of creativity in the craft beverage industry, you eventually get things such as “beer cocktails” and the Mai Ta-IPA, a concoction of IPA beer, rum, lime juice, curaçao and a drink umbrella. I’ve been on the record as being staunchly opposed to things like peanut butter and chocolate, kale ice cream and any attempt to pervert good beer with spirits. This issue’s Beerlandia (pg. 22) beer cocktails, however, may change my mind about one category.
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Finally, no man is an island, floating blissfully in libations alone. Goat cheese grounds you in another Oregon craft industry. Through our Recipes (pg. 32) and Home Grown Chef (pg. 34), we explore such delights as goat cheese blintzes, goat cheese ravioli and herb-crusted chèvre salad. Get a local goat cheese from your market and try one of these this weekend. Many of your libation desires can easily be satisfied within the destinations of our Trip Planner to Redmond (pg. 88), which is experiencing a brewing explosion, and our Northwest Destination to Spokane (pg. 92), where whiskey, wine and beer all play well together throughout city boundaries. Bon vintage!
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GEAR UP Show off your state pride with 1859 T-shirts, hoodies, tote bags and more from our online shop. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop
MARCH | APRIL 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 13
NOTEBOOK 16 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 36 MIND + BODY 42
pg. 28 There are 120 goats at Rivers Edge Chévre.
Eugene Pavlov
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 44
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camark y len our da r
Christian Heeb, courtesy of Travel Oregon
Tidbits + To-dos
Heceta Head Lighthouse Birthday
Egg Press Birthday Cards
This year, Heceta Head Lighthouse will celebrate 125 years of lighting up the coast. Help ring in its birthday with a party from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. on March 30, with drinks and cupcakes, hot dogs and popcorn. Live music will play in the historic lightkeeper’s house, and docents will give tours of the lighthouse and lightkeeper’s house. The event is free, but donations are accepted.
Oregon’s own Egg Press is celebrating twenty years of making letterpress cards and other stationery. Its birthday cards take whimsy and turn of phrase to the next level, with colorful animals and wordplay that will delight everyone in your life.
www.hecetalighthouse.com
www.eggpress.com
Tillamook Special Batch Ice Cream Spring is springing—on the next “warm enough” day, check out Tillamook’s Special Batch ice cream, which folds the flavors of the Northwest into our favorite dairy product. There’s Oregon hazelnut chocolate farmstyle gelato, Oregon marionberry cheesecake frozen custard, even flavors infused with Pendleton whiskey and Stumptown cold brew. www.tillamook.com
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ca mar le k yo nd ur ar
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This McMinnville brewery is making glutenfree beer for the intolerant among us. The brewery has a full range of ales, from IPA to stout, all brewed in a gluten-free facility to ensure everyone can enjoy. Visit the taproom on Saturdays or look for the beers in New Seasons, Whole Foods, Market of Choice and other grocery stores around Oregon. www.evasionbrewing.com
Oregon Cheese Festival With New Year’s resolutions safely out the window, it’s time to hit up the Oregon Cheese Festival in Central Point. On March 16-17, celebrate the glories of cheese in all its forms. With more than 100 vendors descending upon Rogue Creamery and the CraterWorks Building next door, you can sample local cheeses and other artisan foods, as well as beer, wine and cider. Tickets are $15 in advance or $20 at the door, and proceeds from the tasty event go to the Oregon Cheese Guild. www.oregoncheesefestival.com
m
calaerk your nda r
Oregon Ag Fest Celebrate the wonder of Oregon’s bounty with this agricultural festival at the Oregon State Fairgrounds in Salem. The event, held April 27-28 and free for children 12 and under (and $9 for everyone else), seeks to help families better understand where their food comes from. Kids can pet animals, watch sheep get sheared and plant seedlings in hands-on exhibits. Oregon Ag Fest
Evasion Brewing
www.oragfest.com
MARCH | APRIL 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 17
notebook
Musician
Many Doors, Many Sounds
Long Hallways’ post-rock is embellished with jazz, Latin rhythms, stringed instruments and more
Listen on Spotify
written by Ben Salmon
ROCK BANDS LOVE to talk about how they don’t plan to sound a certain way. Instead, they just make music and whatever comes out is a natural reflection of their members’ skills and backgrounds. Few, however, seem to truly embody that spirit as much as Portland’s Long Hallways. “Up through the present day, there has never been a defining single sound or story of the band,” bassist Joseph Chamberlain said. “Part of the meaning of the name is the many doors to explore in making this music, (which) is a product of who we are as individual musicians, and that wherever we take the music it will always sound like Long Hallways.” For evidence, listen to the band’s new album, Close Your Eyes To Travel, a seven-track collection that wanders and explores as it grooves. The core of the album’s sound is dynamic instrumental music built from Danny Staton’s sparkling guitar parts, Chad Rush’s pounding drums and Chamberlain’s foundational bass lines. Together, they breathe life into Long Hallways’ omnivorous post-rock. But throughout Close Your Eyes, others put their stamp on the band’s songs. Myles Eberlein’s cello and horns produce orchestral and jazzy undertones. Dayna Sanders’ keyboards and maracas 18 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL
2019
give “On Other Shores” a Latinpop vibe. Stringed instruments make bright, urgent songs feel earthy, while “Under A Dark Planet” blends avant garde noise and electronic bleep-bloops. Close Your Eyes was largely composed during a long writing retreat to the Sou’wester Lodge in Seaview, Washington. Long Hallways’ songs originate in many ways, but once they become band material, they’re treated with tremendous care. “We communicate very openly and as democratically as possible with a lot of value for autonomy as well,” Sanders said. “There’s a lot of discussion, feedback and trust.” With so many voices involved—as well as listeners’ ears— any concrete meaning behind the songs takes a back seat to individuals’ imaginations. “That’s what we love about writing instrumental music,” Staton said. “We can each have our own interpretation about what a sweet, sad or sexy section of a song is really about, and that’s OK.”
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SNEAK AWAY
notebook
Elena Makansi
Rum punch is the right match for Pride and Prejudice.
Bibliophile
Books and Booze How to pair your next read with the right drink interview by Sheila G. Miller
AMIRA MAKANSI WANTS to elevate your book club—or just your sofa time. In her new book, Literary Libations, she includes more than 150 books and the drinks that go with them, whether that be rum punch with Pride and Prejudice or “lager, by the pitcher, from your local dive” with Fight Club. “It’s kind of frivolous, if you think about it,” Makansi said. “It’s not really necessary.” But a passage from the book’s introduction explains. “Because a great novel and a great drink both have the power to transport you. Because our memories are stronger when coupled with aromatic experiences. And because a story shared between friends is always better over a pint of beer.” 20 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL
2019
What was the impetus to write this book? The book manifested itself in its most original form as a blog post. I wrote it in 2015 when I was in the midst of promoting my self-published Seeds Trilogy books and I was working in the wine industry. I wanted to find a way to put these two passions together—writing and literature, and then wine—so I just wrote this blog post, called “What To Drink With What You Read,” and it had five pairings that were very broad genres of literatures with styles of wine. I got a positive response to it, and a couple days later my dad called me up and said, ‘Seriously, you should do more with this idea. It’s clever and I think there’s probably a market for it.’ I didn’t have time to do that until 2017. What with writing the other book series and then working full-time, there were no more hours in the week to devote to this new idea. Have you read all the books you reference in your book? The corollary to that question that I get a lot is, ‘Have you had all the drinks you write about?’ I have not read all the books from cover to cover. I’ve read about a third of them. I checked out every single book I hadn’t read from the Ashland Library, which luckily is right across the street from my house, about $1,000 worth of reading material, in four months last year. My strategy was to read the first fifty pages and the ending, and I used Wikipedia and SparkNotes to fill in the middle. The answer to the question about the
drinks is where I surprise people. I’ve tried about 95 percent of them. I started getting into drinking alcohol professionally when I was 19 and I went to France to work in a winery over there—that’s where my love affair with wine started. So even before I could legally drink in America I was thinking about wine and winemaking. As soon as I was 21, I entered the restaurant industry, and I figured if I wanted to be a good salesperson I should learn about spirits and cocktails and other drinks as well. So we would go to cocktail bars in Chicago and have one of everything on the menu over a six-month period. How’d you go about organizing the book? I always knew it was going to be organized by genre because of my original blog post. You start to see certain structures within genres— with fantasy, there are a lot of beer and wine pairings, and then the American classics section has a lot of cocktail pairings because the Roaring ’20s were an important part of drinking culture. Then the next question was how to fill it out? I had read a certain number of books that I knew I wanted to write about their pairings. Once I knew the genres I was going to focus on, I went into GoodReads and Amazon and Google and searched for other top books in each genre. I looked for those with the most reviews on GoodReads, and the highest number of Google searches, and using that data I selected a list of other books that I hadn’t read that would make sense to include.
food + drink
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Bible Club
Wrong Turn at Albuquerque 1½ ounces Banhez Mezcal ¾ ounce organic carrot juice ½ ounce Bee Local cherrywood smoked honey ¼ ounce Ancho Reyes Verde Chili Liqueur ¼ ounce lemon juice Place all ingredients together in a shaker. Shake, then serve over a big ice cube. Garnish with a dehydrated lime wheel.
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Beerlandia
FROM LEFT Portland Rickey, Mai Ta-IPA and Beer Flip cocktails. (photos: David L. Reamer)
The Beauty of Beer Cocktails written by Jeremy Storton I FOUND A PATH less traveled in Beerlandia recently. It began with a muddled slice of orange, Angostura bitters, a Bordeaux cherry and a tablespoon of cherry juice instead of sugar. The aromas began wafting their magic as I stirred in 1 ounce of rye whiskey. In order to make a whiskey old fashioned, ice cubes and soda water ought to have come next, but that wasn’t the plan. Instead, I poured half a can of cold pale ale into the glass. With one swift stir of the bar spoon, I entered the esoteric world of beer cocktails. The idea of mixing beer with spirits was anathema to me until I realized I was just being a stodgy beer snob. Then I spoke with Portland bartender, consultant and writer Jacob Grier, who literally wrote the book on beer cocktails. As I flipped through the pages of Grier’s book, Cocktails on Tap, I began considering beer as a set of flavor profiles that could lend themselves to other beverages as well as food. Moreover, with the quality coming out of Oregon today, beer can actually improve our drinks. “It’s a way of taking a cocktail and just giving it a little something extra by shaking the beer into it,” Grier said. While Oregon beer and spirits suppliers vie for their pieces of the consumer pie, we shouldn’t be afraid to take some creative liberties of our own. If we consider the unique flavors of a saison in a gin rickey, or a tropical IPA in a mai tai, our world can only expand. After all, Oregon beer offers every opportunity of flavor and texture to create something truly sublime and transcendent.
BEER COCKTAILS TO TRY THIS SPRING Beer Flip 1 mild ale or American pale ale Sugar 1 ounce high-proof rum Preheat the beer to 140 degrees, about the temperature of a child’s hot cocoa. Fill a mug with hot water, then dump it out. Coat the inside with sugar. Add rum, and set the rum aflame, rotating the mug to caramelize sugar. Extinguish the flame by pouring the warm beer into the mug.
Mai Ta-IPA 1½ ounces IPA 1 ounce white rum 1 ounce fresh lime juice ¾ ounce orgeat (almond) syrup ½ ounce orange curaçao 1 ounce dark rum Pour IPA, white and dark rum, lime juice, syrup and curaçao into a mixing glass with ice and shake. Strain into a rocks glass with ice. Garnish with a cherry and a little umbrella.
Portland Rickey 1½ ounces gin Juice from ½ lemon ¼ ounce chartreuse 4 ounces saison Fill a highball glass with ice. Add ingredients and stir. Garnish with squeezed lemon half. Recipes courtesy Cocktails on Tap
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food + drink
WEEKEND WANDERINGS: Cider-glazed salmon with creamy spaetzle, bacon, chestnuts and shaved Brussels sprouts from Little Bird Bistro.
SOUTHERN OREGON COAST EN ROUTE
When you reach Florence, a lovely little former mill town at the mouth of the Siuslaw River, head down to charming historic Old Town for a cappuccino and homemade apple cake on the riverfront patio at River Roasters. If seeking heartier fare, grab solid pub grub at Homegrown Public House, which has plenty of plant-based and gluten-free options, so you can choose between the Willamette Valley smoked gouda and local mushrooms-heaped Forager’s Burger, or the hemp seed burger with homemade kimchee, a.k.a. the Hippie Elitist Burger.
EAT + DRINK
Gastronomy
Portland Dining Month written by Jen Stevenson THIS YEAR, Portland Dining Month celebrates ten tasty years of uniting the city’s best restaurants with intrepid eaters who love a good meal and a deal. From March 1 through 31, diners can devour special $33 three-course menus at more than 100 participating restaurants, from tried-and-true favorites like Aviary and Little Bird Bistro to buzzed-about newbies like Delores and Bullard. Whether your culinary companion’s a staunch meat eater, one of those admirable souls still sticking to their kale-related New Year’s resolutions, or somewhere in between, there’s a menu to match. Pore over the entire list at www.travelportland.com. To sweeten the pot de crème, your prix fixe dining spree comes with a side of philanthropy—for every reservation made through the OpenTable link on Travel Portland’s website, a donation will be made to the Oregon Food Bank. 24 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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At Coos Bay’s Fisherman’s Seafood Market, a cute oldfashioned floating fish market on the docks, buy wild-caught seafood, sample the homemade clam chowder or dig into a basket of hand-cut fish and chips or Coos Bay butter clams. If you prefer your clams on top of a pizza, try the On the Bay Vongole pie at Front Street Provisioners, a fun new waterfront pizzeria and wine shop slinging Neapolitan-style pies. Plot your coastal road trip course over pints of Lighthouse Session Ale at 7 Devils Brewing Co., which only distributes its small-batch beers within a 100-mile radius. In Bandon, Oregon’s proud cranberry capital, stock up on blocks of cranberry walnut cheddar and slurp oversized ice cream scoops at Face Rock Creamery, get piping hot cod and chips at cheery Bandon Fish Market, and crack crab at Old Town’s cozy, kitschy Tony’s Crab Shack; if you want to reel in your own catch of the day, rent rings and reels at adjoining Port O’Call tackle shop, and Tony’s will cook and clean your future fish story. And if you just can’t get enough fish and chips, keep heading south to Port Orford for the namesake dish and wedges of razzleberry pie at The Crazy Norwegian’s Fish & Chips. Down in Brookings, relax and review all the pictures you took at the Highway 101 turnouts en route before digging into ginger chili apricot-glazed sticky wings, slow-braised short rib stew and Bavarian reubens on pretzel bread at Oxenfrē Public House. Go big or go home with eclectic Zola’s Pizzeria’s formidable woodfired Extreme Mac ‘n Cheese pizza, before scoops and splits at family-friendly Slugs ‘n Stones ‘n Ice Cream Cones, or sip a Block and Tackle Stout nightcap at Chetco Brewing Company, which welcomes both your pup and your shuffleboard skills.
SLEEP WELL
In Gold Beach, book one of the river-facing fireplace rooms or suites at Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge and spend stormy spring days by the hearth with a good book and a growler of local Arch Rock Brewing Company’s Gold Beach Lager, and nights dreaming of the gourmet lodge breakfast to come. Spread out over 5 pristine coastal acres in Port Orford, WildSpring eco-resort has everything necessary to completely unwind, including a walking labyrinth, in-cabin massage and open-air hot tub overlooking the ocean. And in Bandon, even nongolfers will appreciate the rugged beauty of the Bandon Dunes Golf Resort’s breathtaking perch on the edge of the Pacific—book a massage, steam in the sauna or walk the 10 miles of duneland trails.
When you’re looking for more than just a hotel room WildSpring Guest Habitat is a small ecofriendly resort on five acres overlooking the ocean in Port Orford. Enjoy the spectacular south Oregon coast while surrounding yourself with luxury. Think of it as nature with four stars. Recommended in the New York Times, Travel & Leisure and Sunset Magazine
866.333.9453 • wildspring.com
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B•L• D Antiques Gift Shop Gorge Views bridgesidedining.com • 541-374-8477 • I-84 Exit 47
food + drink BEST PLACES FOR
SCRUMPTIOUS SPRING PIZZAS MONTESACRO PINSERIA Okay, so Roman-born pinsa isn’t technically pizza, but they’re very close cousins. Made with a blend of rice, soy and wheat flours imported from Rome, this lively Pearl District pinseria’s light, chewy flatbread is layered with everything from broccolini to burrata to bottarga before being blistered to perfection in the oven. Pair the smoked buffalo mozzarella and ’nduja-topped Infernetto with a salad of raw zucchini, ricotta salata, and fresh mint and wonder where pinsa has been all your pizza-loving life. 1230 NW HOYT ST. PORTLAND www.montesacropdx.com
RECIPE PART DEUX When planning your spring wine country weekend, a supper stop at this charming downtown Newberg wine bar is a must. The small but mighty menu takes comfort food classics to the next level—deviled eggs are stuffed with anchovy-spiked mousse, Wagyu steak tartare sits alongside a smear of homemade tomato mayonnaise, and hearty French bread pizzas are piled with creamed kale, feta, olive tapenade and fennel pollen. It’s just the ticket after a long, arduous day of tasting room hopping. 602 E 1ST ST. NEWBERG www.recipepartdeux.com
Churchgate Station’s menu changes every two weeks.
Dining
Churchgate Station written by Jen Stevenson
Sharing a Highway 101 strip mall with a tattoo shop and a church, chef-owner Mike Kaffer’s no-frills Seaside pizza shop spins New-York-style pies on thin, chewy, nicely charred crust made with slow-fermented dough. Choose toppings from the hand-scrawled chalkboard menu to build your own pie, then pony up a dollar for a can of A&W and settle in for a nostalgic pizza night with the locals.
AFTER SEVEN YEARS spent building the busy kitchens of his two Bollywood Theater restaurants into the well-oiled vada pav, vindaloo and paneer makhani machines they are today, chef Troy MacLarty was ready for something a little more personal. A dining—and cooking—experience reminiscent of the Chez Panisse alum’s days dishing up family-style meals at Portland’s legendary Family Supper in the mid-2000s, where farmers market finds were spun into passed plates shared between strangers at candlelit communal tables humming with conversation—this is the scene at MacLarty’s new forty-seat, weekends-only prix fixe supper club. MacLarty himself helms the open kitchen in a handsome high-ceilinged space warmed by weathered curryhued walls, strings of dried marigolds and earthen bowls filled with fresh seasonal produce. Three rows of tables for twelve invite conversation between strangers, a handful of barstools seat a lucky few who eat inches from MacLarty’s deft handiwork, and the adventurous menus, which change every two weeks, read like a Delhi-scented dream—crispy lentil kachori in spicy potato curry, chaat masala-spiced coal-roasted sweet potatoes, and dal donuts with yogurt and tamarind chutney. For dessert, try crunchy sugar-syrup-soaked jalebis or cashew-studded banana noodle pudding, paired with a perfect cup of chai and one last chat with your neighbor and new best friend.
280 S ROOSEVELT DR. SEASIDE www.ab-pizza.business.site
3050 SE DIVISION ST. PORTLAND www.churchgatestationpdx.com
HEY NEIGHBOR A popular newcomer on the Eugene pizza scene, chef-owner Calen Willis’s cute bungalow-bound pizza shop near the university turns out 12-inch, hand-tossed, wood-fired pies ranging from a classic margherita to the pancetta, pepperoni and housemade fennel sausage-topped Carnero. Start with wood-roasted asparagus or a crisp fennel, grapefruit, parsley and pickled onion salad, try something off the craft cocktail list, or take your pint of Oakshire stout outside to the heated and covered outdoor porch. 1621 E 19TH AVE. EUGENE www.facebook.com/heyneighborpizza
A&B PIZZA
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VISIT
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open daily 12-5 pm
227012 Briggs Hill Road | Eugene 97405 | 541.345.1945 | www.SilvanRidge.com
open daily 11 am - 5 pm | ElizabethChambersCellar.com 455 NE Irvine | McMinnville 97128 | 503-412-9765
farm to table
Farm to Table
The Big Cheese
Getting the goods on goat cheese written by Sophia McDonald photography by Eugene Pavlov
DOES ANYTHING EPITOMIZE spring more than baby goats frolicking in a farmer’s emerald green field? This has been a familiar view for Patricia Morford with Rivers Edge Chèvre since 1958, when her father brought home the family’s first goats. Jack, Stripes and Pinky had a specific job—eating the blackberries that had overrun an apple orchard. They stayed with the family long after the vines were gone, however, and ended up being the inspiration for Morford’s career as a farmstead cheesemaker.
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farm to table Patricia Morford has 120 goats in her herd near Logsden.
Long before she wrapped her first log of chèvre, Morford was known for her outstanding goat breeding program. “I just kind of fell into making cheese because I had such good milk genetics and I was interested in producing food,” she said. She started making cheese for her family around 1970. By 1990, she had decided to expand her cheesemaking operation so she could share her flavorful products with others. With no startup capital flowing in, however, that dream took a long time to become a reality. “We started stockpiling anything giant and stainless we could find,” she said. She built a European-style creamery on her property in Logsden, about 20 miles inland from Newport, with a cheesemaking room on the first floor and a residence on the second story. And she learned everything she could about the process of transforming goat milk into something entirely different. “There’s the science of making cheese and the magic of making cheese,” she said. “The science part and I don’t usually get along very well, but I can make really good cheese. It’s almost like I’m an alchemist instead of a chemist.” It was 2005 before she was producing enough to think about wholesaling. “New Seasons was our very first customer,” she said. “I just stumbled in with a bunch of cheese and said, ‘Here, try this.’” The grocery chain has been one of Morford’s main customers ever since. Her products are also available at several other independent stores and farmers markets. Rivers Edge is one of few completely farmsteadmade cheeses in Oregon, and each piece’s flavor is deeply linked to where it was made. Morford forages ferns from her property for wheels of Siltcoos, a bloomy rind cheese. Up in Smoke, a smoked chèvre that’s misted with bourbon, is wrapped in big-leaf and vine maple leaves she’s plucked from her trees. Other cheeses have names that are unique to the coast, including Yaquina Bay Pavé (a bloomy rind cheese with green peppercorns), Cape Foulweather (an ash-coated pyramid) and Humbug Mountain (a truncated pyramid). When people learn what Morford does, they’re often entranced by the idea of keeping livestock and making cheese. But the lifestyle isn’t as romantic as it sounds. She and her daughter Astraea, who helps run the business, begin every day working with the animals. The farm has 120 Alpine and Golden Guernsey goats, about seventy to a hundred of which are producing at any given time. They must be milked every morning. After that, there’s equipment to clean and animals to feed and nurture. The afternoon is dedicated to “cheese stuff”—pasteurizing and culturing MARCH | APRIL 2019
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farm to table
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Siltcoos cheese, left, adorned with a fern leaf and chèvre, right, wrapped in smoked maple leaves. The cheesemaking process takes up much of the farm’s afternoons. Cape Foulweather cheese is an ash-coated pyramid, while other cheeses are formed into wheels.
“There’s the science of making cheese and the magic of making cheese. The science part and I don’t usually get along very well, but I can make really good cheese. It’s almost like I’m an alchemist instead of a chemist.” — Patricia Morford, cheesemaker at Rivers Edge Chèvre the milk, dipping curds into forms or cheesecloth bags, packaging and shipping the finished products, and many other tasks. This daily ritual repeats itself seven days a week. Morford estimates they work twelve to fourteen hours every day. It’s a punishing schedule, but one that’s entirely worth it to her. “This has been my passion for almost my entire life, so I get to do what I want to do. It’s fairly flexible at the farm, so we can work in things like spending time in the garden. It’s actually quite a nice lifestyle if you don’t mind the work.” Crafting goat cheese remains a relatively small industry in Oregon. According to Katie Bray, executive director of the Oregon Cheese Guild, nine of the organization’s twenty-three members produce goat cheese. “All of them are on the smaller side—that is, they make less than 37,500 pounds of cheese a year,” she said. Producers are clustered in western Oregon and stretch from the Portland area to Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. 30 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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At mealtime, incorporate goat cheese into a first course with goat cheese panna cotta from Tina’s Restaurant in Dundee. Chef Briana Olvera serves it with a crudité platter of fresh and seasonal foods that may include grilled vegetables, watermelon radishes, berries, melon and figs. Goat cheese ravioli is a signature dish at Carina Lounge in Portland. According to owner Peter Kost, the recipe was originally created by chef Mark Fuller in 1998 for Kost’s first restaurant. He brought it back for his latest venture, and received so many requests for the recipe that he created this version for guests to take home. For dessert, wrap goat cheese in papery crêpes to make goat cheese blintzes from Lisa Horness, pastry chef at Paley’s Place in Portland. Topped with chamomile-scented poached pears and candied walnuts, they bring earthy and sweet flavors together in an unforgettable way.
DINOSAURS TAKE FLIGHT
THE ART OF ARCHAEOPTERYX | A TRAVELING EXHIBIT Meet the amazing feathered dinosaurs of the Jurassic!
NOW ON VIEW Through May 19, 2019 1680 East 15th Avenue, Eugene 541-346-3024 natural-history.uoregon.edu Open to the public Tuesday through Sunday, 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
how to cozy up in seaside Get yourselves a nice room but bring your favorite blanket. Play games and watch movies but run to the beach when the sun breaks. Eat good food and drink good drinks but leave enough room for dessert. And remember why you like the person you’re in love with all over again. seasideOR.com
farm to table
Goat Cheese Ravioli from Carina’s Lounge.
Oregon Recipes
The Cheese Stands Alone Goat Cheese Panna Cotta DUNDEE / Tina’s Restaurant Briana Olvera SERVES 4 7 ounces heavy cream 1½ teaspoons gelatin 2 ounces whole milk 4 ounces goat cheese at room temperature Salt and pepper to taste In a heavy-bottomed medium pan over medium-low heat, whisk to melt all ingredients together in a soft, smooth mixture, taking care
Goat Cheese Ravioli
PORTLAND / Carina’s Lounge Mark Fuller SERVES 10 2.2 pounds goat cheese 3 eggs ½ cup bread crumbs Kosher salt and white pepper to taste 1 package 3-by-3 inch fresh wonton skins 1 egg, beaten FOR GARNISH 10-12 ounces parmesan reggiano 10-12 ounces pancetta, diced ¼ inch 8 ounces fresh sage leaves, stems removed 3 shallots, sliced thin FOR BROWNED BUTTER SAUCE ½ pound salted butter ½ pound unsalted butter 1½ quart heavy cream Mix goat cheese, 3 eggs, bread crumbs, salt and pepper until incorporated. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the filling onto the center of
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not to boil. Spray ramekins with your favorite non-stick cooking spray. Fill ramekins and chill until set, at least 4 hours—you can make this a day ahead. Decant the panna cottas by running a knife around the edge of ramekin, then inverting it out onto plate. Serve chilled with crostini, toast points or crisp apple slices. Other options include grilled vegetables, radish, fresh or preserved fruits or berries, grilled or plain melon and figs. Dress panna cotta with a swirl of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and cracked black pepper.
a wonton square. Brush edges of wonton squares with beaten egg to hold sides together. Fold over edges of wonton to make a triangle. Seal by pressing gently with fork tines. Drop ravioli into boiling water. When they start floating, they’re done. Cover with browned butter sauce. Top with grated parmesan, fried pancetta, sage and shallots. FOR GARNISH Render diced pancetta in olive oil over low heat until crispy. Moisten sage leaves and lightly toss in flour (rice flour if possible). Quick fry in olive oil and dry on paper towel. Lightly toss thinly sliced shallots in flour (rice flour if possible). Quick fry in olive oil and dry on paper towel. FOR BROWNED BUTTER SAUCE Brown the butter over medium heat until it’s golden. Let the butter cool to room temperature, and then slowly add the cream over low heat while whisking until it thickens. Sauce can be prepared one day in advance and then slowly reheated while whisking.
MARCH | APRIL 2019
farm to table
Goat Cheese Blintzes
PORTLAND / Paley’s Place Lisa Horness SERVES 8 FOR CRÊPES 1 cup warm milk 1 ounce melted butter 1 whole egg + 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon oil ¼ cup beer ⅜ teaspoon sugar Heavy pinch of salt ½ cup + 2 tablespoons flour
FOR CHAMOMILE-SCENTED PEARS 24 ounces water 4 ounces maple syrup ½ vanilla bean 2 sachets of Steven Smith’s Meadow tea or other chamomile tea 4 firm pears, Bartlett, Bosc or D’Anjou FOR ORANGE PORT SAUCE 1 cup ruby port 1 orange, zested in large strips ½ vanilla bean
FOR CRÊPES In a small saucepan over low heat, warm milk with butter until the butter is just melted. In a blender, combine the egg, oil, sugar, salt and beer. Blend until well incorporated. On low speed, slowly add the milk and butter mixture. Add flour and mix until just combined. Transfer batter to a container and refrigerate for at least an hour or up to overnight. Batter will keep for up to 48 hours; stir gently before use. To make the crêpes, heat a 6-inch skillet over medium heat. Add a small amount of butter. Using a small ladle, add approximately 2 ounces of batter to the center of the pan. Tilt pan and swirl to spread evenly. Cook until just barely golden and edges become lacey. Using a spatula or your fingers, gently flip crêpe. Immediately remove pan from heat, remove crêpe from pan and place on a parchmentlined sheet tray with the barely cooked side down. Continue until you have enough crêpes for two per person. Crêpes may be made up to one day in advance; store refrigerated.
Jeff Mendenhall
FOR CHAMOMILE-SCENTED PEARS Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium saucepan, combine water with maple syrup and vanilla bean and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and add tea sachets. Steep for 5 to 10 minutes or until richly colored and fragrant. Remove sachets from syrup. Meanwhile, peel the pears, cut each into quarters and remove the cores. Cut each quarter into thirds and place in a 9x13-inch pan. Pour syrup over pears and cover pan tightly with foil. Bake for approximately 20 minutes, covered, then remove cover and continue to cook until lightly caramelized and tender-firm, approximately 45 minutes to an hour total. Cool pears to room temperature. Pears may be made up to 2 days in advance. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator and warm before serving. FOR ORANGE PORT SAUCE In a small saucepan, combine all ingredients. Cook
FOR GOAT CHEESE FILLING 8 ounces goat cheese 4 ounces cream cheese 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 teaspoon lemon juice ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon salt FOR CANDIED WALNUTS 2½ ounces sugar Scant 2 cups walnuts Cinnamon and salt to taste
over low heat until reduced to approximately ¼ cup and sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain zest and vanilla bean. Sauce may be stored, refrigerated, for up to a week. FOR GOAT CHEESE FILLING Cream together goat cheese and cream cheese, then blend in remaining ingredients. Spoon into a piping bag and refrigerate until ready to use. May be made up to two days in advance. FOR CANDIED WALNUTS Combine sugar with a little water in a saucepan. Cook sugar solution until it begins to look syrupy, a similar consistency to honey. Add nuts and stir to coat, adding more nuts if needed so the sugar solution coats the nuts with a little liquid remaining. Stir continuously over medium heat as the sugar coating the nuts crystalizes and begins to melt and caramelize. Stir until all nuts are a deep caramel color and no crystalized bits remain, then pour candied nuts onto a silpat and liberally sprinkle with sea salt and ground cinnamon. Lightly toss to coat. While still warm, and using gloves, separate nuts into individual pieces. Nuts may be made up to 3 days in advance and stored in an airtight container at room temperature. TO SERVE Warm pears. One at a time, pipe approximately 3 tablespoons of filling on the bottom half of each crêpe, making sure the more cooked side is right side up. Fold bottom third of the crêpe up over the filling, then tuck each side in and roll to encapsulate the filling in the crêpe. Repeat with all crêpes. Heat a medium non-stick skillet over medium heat. Coat with butter. As the butter begins to foam, add rolled crêpes to pan a few at a time, making sure not to overcrowd the pan. Cook until golden, then flip and cook other side until golden. Place two blintzes in a bowl. Top with 6 slices of warm pears, a generous sprinkling of candied walnuts, and finish with a drizzle of port reduction.
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farm to table
Home Grown Chef
Greatest Of All Time—G.O.A.T. written by Thor Erickson photography by Charlotte Dupont
The herb-crusted chèvre salad provides a bit of crunch.
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farm to table
IT WAS 4:30 a.m., time for the morning milking at Juniper Grove Farm. As I pulled up to the barn, I saw Pierre, the owner. In his quotidian garb—overalls and mucky, knee-high rubber boots—the lanky Belgian farmer-cheesemaker, a former copyright lawyer living out his agrarianculinary dream, was waving his arms frantically. “It happened again!” he yelled. I had been working as a cheesemaker at the Redmond goat farm for a little more than a year. Part of my job was to do the first milking of the day, which meant opening chutes and helping seventyfive ewes of varying breeds line up outside the milking parlor for the morning ritual. They all had numbers, but they had names, too. Franny was the alpha goat—always first in line for the milking and the “magic corn.” I used this sweetened feed to lure them into the barn, which kept them happy as I hooked them up to the milking machines. Abby was the mean one, always waiting for the right time to catch me by surprise, using her hard noggin to wield a swift hit to my backside. Then there was Cicely. She was the best milkproducing ewe of the entire herd. Most goat ewes produce about 12 pounds of milk per day. Cicely regularly produced a whopping 18 pounds. We loved Cicely—most of the time. This ruminant, lactating overachiever was also an escape artist. Despite many hours of fence reinforcement, video surveillance and radio collars, she would regularly find some way to outsmart us. Pierre had received a call from a neighboring farmer. “She’s over on their road,” he yelled to me. Pierre was already lining up the ewes. After grabbing a pocketful of “magic corn,” I climbed into his truck and drove into the sunrise to look for Cicely. Sure enough, I found her in the middle of the road about a half mile away. I stopped the truck, took out the ramp from the back and began negotiations. Cicely did not want to get into the bed of the truck, no matter how much “magic corn” I offered. I opened the door of the cab and got a rope to pull her up into the truck bed. As I walked back to tie a lead onto her, she walked around to the front of the truck and jumped right into the cab. To my luck, she left just enough room for me to squeeze in and drive back to the farm, her udder smashing against the right side of my head the entire way. We returned safely to the farm where together, we made delicious cheese. Whether you are a goat farmer or someone who simply enjoys goat cheese, this salad is one of the best ways to indulge.
Herb-crusted Chèvre Salad Thor Erickson SERVES 6
18 ounces goat cheese, preferably high-quality chèvre Leaves from 6 sprigs thyme, chopped Leaves from 2 small sprigs rosemary, chopped 1¾ cups extra-virgin olive oil 1½ cups bread crumbs ½ baguette loaf, cut on the diagonal into twelve ¼-inchthick slices 1½ teaspoons sherry vinegar ½ teaspoon coarse kosher or sea salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2¾ tablespoons hazelnut oil or extra-virgin olive oil ¾ pound baby lettuces or spring mix, washed and dried well ½ cup toasted hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
Slice or shape the goat cheese into eight 1-inch-thick discs and put in a container just big enough to hold them in one layer. Sprinkle the herbs over the goat cheese and pour on olive oil. Cover and chill at least 12 hours and up to a week. It helps to put them in the freezer for about an hour to firm up before you bake them. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Remove cheese from marinade and roll all sides in the breadcrumbs, pressing gently so the crumbs adhere. Arrange on a large baking sheet and bake until golden, about 15 minutes, turning over halfway through. Add sliced baguette during the last few minutes of baking to toast. Whisk together sherry vinegar, salt, pepper and hazelnut oil. Place lettuces in a large bowl, drizzle with just enough dressing to coat, and toss gently and thoroughly. Divide lettuces among 4 plates, sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts, and to each plate add 2 goatcheese discs and a baguette slice. Serve immediately.
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home + design
Life Among the Vines A design duo crafts a distinct farmhouse for wine lovers in the Willamette Valley
Erin Riddle at KLiK Concepts
written by Melissa Dalton
With its metal roof and tomato-red door, this farmhouse is contemporary but meant to evoke old farmsteads.
DEEP IN THE Dundee Hills, up a curving gravel drive past a grove of moss-covered oaks, sits a farmhouse with a tomato red door. The home’s silvered board-and-batten siding and standing seam metal roof evoke farmsteads of old, but that’s about where the resemblance ends. This one has a decidedly more contemporary shape. “We wanted to take the idea of the modern farmhouse and flip it on its head,” Matthew Daby said. The residential designer teamed up with interior designer Angela Mechaley, both of m.o.daby design, to tweak tradition in unexpected ways. Picture a classic American farmhouse, and the image that comes to mind most likely includes a pitched roof, front porch, and double-hung windows. Pretty? Yes. Practical? Not for this particular plot, which has a dramatic grade and straddles a driveway shared with its neighbors. “Personally, I felt like the site, with the long and narrow shape and the way that it’s sloped, it would have felt a little odd to prop up a two-story, gabled farmhouse on it,” Daby said. So he tucked the low-slung build under a striking shed roof and inserted tall, bronze-framed glazing all along the southern façade, then clad the body in unfinished cedar, in a nod to the rural context. “We wanted warm textures and materials, but didn’t want to be so bound to the shape of a farmhouse,” Daby said. 36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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With the home situated, Daby needed to signal to visitors how to find the front door. “One of the design challenges was to work around the fact that the garage doors were inevitably going to be the first thing you were going to see coming up the driveway,” Daby said. This is because the property’s existing garage, now topped with a 700-square-foot studio apartment designed by Daby and built by Cellar Ridge Construction, was kept in place, and the new home positioned behind it. To address this, Daby created a “trail of breadcrumbs” with the entry sequence to signal to guests where to go, aided by terracing from landscape architects Ecotone Environmental. Now, a covered breezeway leads to that bright red door. A second, bronze-colored door nearby is even more essential to the everyday life of the homeowners, despite being more inconspicuous. “Being in a rural area, the challenge of a formal entrance is almost unnecessary in a house like this,” Daby said. “It’s much more important to have a mudroom entrance.” Inside the harder-working entry, the charcoal flooring was chosen to withstand muddy shoes covered in the area’s famous red-tinted soil. The home’s efficient 1,556-square-foot interior includes two bedrooms and two baths, and makes
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... to Toast Friendship
Photos: Erin Riddle at KLiK Concepts
home + design
FROM LEFT Shaker-style cabinets match a chevron-patterned backsplash. Black hex tile in the bathroom lends traditional detailing.
short work of any circulation corridors. “There’s not a lot of meandering,” Daby said. While the home’s shell was erected by Cellar Ridge Construction, the homeowners oversaw all of the interior finish work, hiring subcontractors when needed and also doing several projects themselves. The interior palette was kept understated but purposeful in order to balance farmhouse folk with modern lines, said Mechaley, who selected all of the interior fixtures and finishes. White oak floors nudge up against window and door openings trimmed in slim bands of Douglas fir. In the kitchen, shaker-style cabinets meet a tile backsplash laid in a contemporary and eye-catching chevron pattern. The guest bath deftly pairs an industrial-style sink with a streamlined mirror and cabinet unit. Additional textural accents create warmth and reference the home’s setting, such as with the rusted corrugated metal cladding the chimney column, and the reclaimed wood surrounding the master bath and forming the doors in the principle suite. “We wanted to bring that outside material in,” Mechaley said. Doing so helps to foster the feeling that the home has been “built and collected over time rather than plopped down at a specific moment,” Daby said. Along the way, both the homeowners and designers “looked for those opportunities to introduce the charm of traditional detailing,” Daby said, such as including inlaid floor keys in the white oak and adding decorative black hex tile patterns in the bathrooms. “These are the things that people fall in love with in older farmhouses,” Daby said. “The little crafted details that look like somebody put their hands on it.” The open-concept living room melds easily with the kitchen and dining area, then back out to a covered porch cantilevered 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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into the trees, and a deck that overlooks the distant vineyardcovered hills. “I was trying to create multiple experiences for them,” Daby said, from the porch’s “treehouse” feeling of being propped up in the whispering oaks to the deck’s more sweeping views. Both are prime spots for sitting and enjoying the almost 6-acre property with a glass of wine. The first pinot noir grapes were planted in the Dundee Hills just fifty-three years ago by David and Diana Lett of Eyrie Vineyards. Other vintners quickly followed, and today, it’s easy to get lost along the winding roads populated by veteran winemakers and brand-new tasting rooms. But the homeowners don’t need to go far to see the grapes up close, since their neighbors have planted a vineyard along their fence. Come harvest, they’re immersed in the winemaking process, from the smell of the earth to the sounds of workers moving along the vines, as well as in their own gardens. “The outdoor spaces are almost as important to the owners as the indoor,” Daby said. When the owners bought the land years ago, the plot hosted just a few outbuildings, one of which was a small, weathered garden shed that served as the project’s inspiration. Daby remembers pointing to it in an early planning session. “The conversation extended to the idea of using living materials,” he said, meaning materials which could gently patina with continued exposure, from the wood trim inside to the exterior cedar siding. “I was very excited that the clients were willing to be brave enough to do an unfinished cedar and allow it to weather over time,” Daby said. “To me, that’s the poetry of the whole house—to let it change and melt into its site.”
You’ll feel Right at Home. Our 55+ community is owned, operated and governed by the residents themselves.
A magnum of excellent vintage Maloy's offers a fabulous selection of antique and estate jewelry and fine custom jewelry, as well as repair and restoration services. We also buy.
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home + design
DIY: Design a Basket Weave Accent Wall CREATE A basket weave accent wall from used wine barrels to really incorporate your love of wine. 1 GATHER MATERIALS
It might be a bit of a treasure hunt to find used barrels—check local wineries and Craigslist. Each barrel will be held together with several metal hoops. To disassemble them, first use pliers to remove the fasteners. Then loosen the hoop by sliding a flat-head screwdriver or claw between the metal and wood, tapping gently with a mallet. Repeat this action every few inches around the diameter. Once the hoops are slack enough to be removed, the barrel will come apart into individual staves. The number of staves will depend on the size of the barrel, and their widths will vary. You might also be able to find bundles of used wine staves online at eBay or Amazon. 2 READY THE FOUNDATION
Apply a 3/4-inch thick sheet of plywood to the wall. The plywood will be the foundation. Paint the plywood a dark color, since the staves will be raised in places and the background needs to recede behind those spots. DESIGN THE WALL PATTERN
Before installing, tape out the accent wall’s dimensions on the floor using painter’s tape. Then have fun laying out the staves in the desired pattern, taking care to vary their lengths and markings for visual interest. 4 PREP THE PIECES
Lightly sand the staves with sandpaper and remove any residue. After doing a test patch on one piece, apply a sealer of your choice, either matte or high gloss, depending on preference. Wipe-on polyurethane or Danish Oil are easy-to-
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apply finishes. Two to three coats may be needed for durability. 5
INSTALL
Attach the staves to the plywood with a nail gun and fill the nail holes with a stainable wood filler that closely matches their color. Can’t find any used wine barrels near you? There are ready-made wall paneling products, called Nuvelle Deco Strips, that can help you achieve the same look, available at Home Depot.
home + design
Farm-Fresh Finds Get the look of the Dundee Hills farmhouse
Mechaley hung the Camino Vintage Candelabra Round Chandelier from Restoration Hardware over the dining room table to illuminate dinner parties and intimate family meals. The chandelier’s simplified silhouette is composed of hand-forged iron and looks especially current when paired with tubular, exposed filament bulbs. www.restorationhardware.com
The wall-mounted Bannon sink from Kohler has a deep, single basin and integrated backsplash. Its cast iron construction, untreated black body and chrome accents are sure to have houseguests assuming it’s an original.
While decorating the Dundee Hills farmhouse, interior designer Angela Mechaley also picked furnishings that would weather well, such as Schoolhouse Electric’s Drafting Chair, three of which are lined up at the kitchen island counter. The stools combine powder-coated black metal with curved maple seats in a modernized take on the early twentieth-century versions found in classrooms and drafting studios. www.schoolhouse.com
www.us.kohler.com MARCH | APRIL 2019
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mind + body
Flying High
Carson Storch bombs down mountians for a living
© Garth Milan/Red Bull Content Pool
written by Mackenzie Wilson
Carson Storch practices at Red Bull Rampage in Virgin, Utah, in 2018.
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mind + body
“Freeriding is pretty similar to any other high-impact sport, like football for instance, but the difference with us is we’re going fast and we’re hitting dirt.” — Carson Storch, professional freeride mountain biker TWO BROKEN COLLARBONES, one snapped wrist, a couple cracked ribs, bruised organs and one major concussion later, Carson Storch considers himself “lucky.” The professional freeride mountain biker has been going big, crashing hard and doing it all over again for nearly half his life. “Freeriding is pretty similar to any other high-impact sport, like football for instance, but the difference with us is we’re going fast and we’re hitting dirt,” Storch said. Freeriding by nature is unpredictable. Riders choose a route or a “line” down a steep mountain and hope to make it to the bottom unscathed. At 25, Storch is still in his prime, but he’s taking preventive measures to stay at his best both physically and mentally. “I think brain health is kind of a focus of our sport now—it’s pretty serious at competitions nowadays,” he said. “If you hit your head and the medic doesn’t clear you, you’re done.” Storch remembers a time not that long ago when competitions weren’t as safety-conscious. He said even five years ago, riders had the final say whether they could take another run after a fall. “As long as I could tell doctors I was ‘all good’, they’d let me ride,” Storch said. Between 16 and 23 years old, Storch traveled the world competing in slopestyle. Now he focuses on filming and other sponsorship opportunities. One competition he looks forward to each year is Red Bull Rampage—an invite-only freeride competition in Utah where riders design and carve out their own lines on a mountain. “You can pretty much build anything you want out there. It’s a super creative event,” Storch said. “It lets you show
how you view mountain biking. … Every single rider uses the terrain completely different.” In 2018, Storch crashed on both of his runs at the competition. “To do well at that contest, you’ve got to risk it, that just comes with the territory. … It was pretty ambitious, I guess we just kind of went for it,” he said. The pros make carving down nearvertical freeride lines in the mountains look easy. That’s why Storch and other freeriders use their platforms to talk about brain health—highlighting it in movies like Red Bull Media House’s North of Nightfall, which Storch was in last year. “It turned into a good pitch for the movie. … We all kind of talked about it and tried to push it out there because there’s a lot of kids watching these movies in our sport,” he said. Now that he’s built up his reputation, Storch has the luxury of choosing how he spends his time on the bike. His cameo in North of Nightfall led to him being the focus of a new movie coming out in 2019. “The whole concept of the movie is basically everything is going to be filmed in Oregon, and we’ll be filming lots of different landscapes because this state is so diverse,” Storch said. In an industry where filming often takes place in spots as diverse as New Zealand, Spain or the North Pole, Storch says it’s surreal to be on location in his home state. “Metis Creative, a full-scale film crew, relocated to Bend to shoot,” Storch said. “It’s opened up some pretty crazy opportunities for me locally, and makes me even more grateful to have grown up and still live in Bend. It has become quite the hub for mountain biking.” MARCH | APRIL 2019
Carson Storch Professional Freeride Mountain Biker Age: 25 Born: Bend Residence: Bend
WORKOUT “Yoga, daily stretching, training at Boss Sports Performance and Rebound Physical Therapy, and riding bikes every day if I can.”
NUTRITION “I drink smoothies in the morning and usually put CBD in them to help with managing injuries and inflammation. I take brain health supplements. Other than that I try to eat well on the road, which is hard to do.”
INSPIRATION “I’m inspired by many different people, mainly my friends. I try to surround myself with people who inspire me, whether that’s Travis Pastrana (professional motorsports athlete) or my good buddy Ben Ferguson (Olympic snowboarder). I love seeing people achieve goals and it inspires me to do the same.”
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artist in residence
Mark Nicholl started OWL six years ago.
Local Talent
The power of a wine label to connect artists and the community written by Vanessa Salvia photography by Jon Christopher Meyers
A GOOD WINE LABEL has power. In an instant, the label helps create a perception about the wine or tell a story. In the case of Oregon Wine L.A.B. (OWL) in Eugene, owner and winemaker Mark Nicholl has used his labels to create a narrative about the concept behind his wine, connect others to his community and promote local artists. 44 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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artist in residence
Nicholl is an Australian who grew up in Sydney. He worked his first grape harvest in 1997, and has since lived and worked in France, Italy and California. About twelve years ago, a friend in Eugene needed a winemaker in a hurry. “I was in France and got a phone call,” Nicholl said. “Two days later I was on a plane. I fell in love with the place and haven’t left.” Nicholl jokes that he started OWL six years ago after a midlife crisis. “You either buy a sports car or start a winery,” he laughed. “Some days I feel like I should have bought the car, but I’m very much following my dream.” OWL is the home of Nicholl’s William Rose Wines and is also a tasting room for several others—L.A.B. stands for Local Artisan Brands. In 2015, Nicholl conceived of a portrait contest similar to Australia’s Archibald Prize, which is focused on portraits of distinguished Australians. “Having art on a wine label is not a new idea, but we were looking for a way to help support some of the local talent,” Nicholl said. He put out a call seeking a “portrait” of William Rose for his 2015 Barrel Select Pinot Noir. “William Rose is a fictitious bootlegging character that I made up because ‘Mark Nicholl Wine’ doesn’t really roll off the tongue,” Nicholl said. “We put out a descriptor of William Rose but without any physical characteristics. We kept it wide open.” Tyler Banks of Eugene won for his colorful, bearded figure with a jaunty hat. “I love a good art project and assignment directives are what I crave in order to create specific content,” Banks said. “From the description of ‘Bill’ they provided as the prompt, I could see this rough-and-tumble character drive into my mind. He didn’t care how he looked, as long as he had his favorite hat.” While Banks and the other two artist winners enjoyed the process and the final product, making art for a specific, twodimensional purpose like a label sometimes has unexpected challenges. The picture must allow space for words, and sometimes details like color vibrancy are lost when translating a piece of art to another medium. In the second year, Nicholl’s theme was a “notable Eugenian.” Sandi Bonn leapt into action and submitted two pieces for the 2016 William Rose Portrait Series pinot noir wine label— Halie Loren, an internationally known jazz singer, and Terri Irwin, who was born in Eugene and later married Steve Irwin, “The Crocodile Hunter.” Bonn’s line drawing portrait of Loren received Loren’s blessing, and Bonn incorporated several elements of Loren’s music and career. “When I developed this particular piece I had been listening to a lot of her music, and she had just released her album Butterfly Blue,” Bonn said. In Loren’s hair, Bonn added lines suggestive of butterfly wings, piano keys and musical notes, and a reference to her album Heart First in her lips. “It may just look like an iconic picture of a girl, but I tried to include elements of who this notable Eugenian is and I do feel like I pulled it off,” Bonn said. For the third theme, Nicholl sought a pet portrait in support of Eugene’s Greenhill Humane Society. The winner out of more than fifty entries was a charcoal drawing of Finley, a 5-year-
FROM TOP The Oregon Wine L.A.B. in Eugene. William Rose Wines, including one with Emily Higgins’ drawing of Finley the dog.
old border collie and corgi rescue submitted by Emily Higgins, who recently moved from Eugene to Beaverton. Ten percent of “Finley Pinot Noir” sales are donated to Greenhill, and OWL did a pre-release at Greenhill’s annual winter fundraising dinner in October 2018. Since then, the wine has been released, first to wine club members in November and then to the general public in December. For Higgins, who normally uses watercolors, acrylics, or graphite, this portrait represents the first time she has worked in charcoal. “I think it’s great that the winery is doing this because it is an incredible way to showcase work on a local level,” Higgins said. “The more people are able to connect with artists locally, instead of outsourcing, is a really great way to bring the community together.” The theme for 2019 has yet to be announced, and Nicholl is looking forward to another round of collaboration. “There is a real sense of community here in Eugene and that’s what the concept for Oregon Wine L.A.B. is—supporting local artisan brands, and this endeavor is an extension of that.” MARCH | APRIL 2019
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STARTUP 48 WHAT’S GOING UP 52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 54 MY WORKSPACE 56
pg. 56 North Fork 53 is proving Oregon is a tea-growing land.
Bill Purcell
GAME CHANGER 58
Artist Alice Blaschke with her interactive mural “Buteo Jamaicensis, Red-Tailed Hawk.“ Photo by Jennifer Moreland, corvallismurals.com.
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startup
Equal Opportunity Drinking Freeland Spirits sets out to do distilling differently written by Sheila G. Miller FREELAND SPIRITS STARTED with a Texas grandma, a whiskey night and a dream. That dream is now a reality, thanks to the hard work of founder Jill Kuehler, distiller Molly Troupe and farmer Cory Carman, who have combined to create a woman-owned and operated distillery that cheers “equal opportunity drinking.” Kuehler has a nonprofit background focused in food and agriculture. Up until a couple years ago, she was running Zenger Farm in Southeast Portland, a spot that educates thousands of kids each year about how food is grown. But she’d always had a soft spot for spirits, and was interested in their “terroir”—how grain from different places could influence flavor. When she became friends with Cory Carman, one of the sisters who owns Carman Ranch in Eastern Oregon, it all started to click into place. “Anytime she comes to town we drink whiskey,” Kuehler said. “On one of those fateful whiskey nights, I told her, ‘I think I want to make this.’ She said, ‘I want to grow the grain for it.’”
Jill Kuehler, Molly Troupe and Cory Carman have come together to create a woman-owned distillery.
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With Carman on board, Kuehler had an idea—what if she could make this a woman-run distillery? The biggest challenge would be finding a female distiller. That’s where Molly Troupe, an Oregon native with a master’s degree in distilling from Heriot-Watt University in Scotland and experience at Hood River Distilling and Oregon Spirit Distillers in Bend came in. “I met this mythical woman through a friend, and I started wooing her to Portland,” Kuehler said. “We opened in the summer of 2017 and immediately started toying around with gin.” Though whiskey was the women’s first love, whiskey—like starting a distillery—takes time. “Gin is a close second love,” Kuehler said. So they started there. But it couldn’t be like everyone else’s gin. On a walk through Forest Park, Troupe brought up what would become Freeland Spirits’ not-so-secret weapon—the Rotovap, a vacuum distillation machine that could infuse into the gin fresh ingredients whose flavors don’t come through in a traditional heat distillation process.
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startup
Freeland Spirits’ tasting room in Northwest Portland serves full cocktails on weekends.
This was perfect for Kuehler, who had named Freeland Spirits for her grandmother, who never touched a drop of alcohol but did have a huge garden full of fresh plants in Texas. The distillery’s first product, its gin, has flavors of fresh mint, rosemary and thyme from the Rotovap process, as well as fourteen other botanicals that are infused in the traditional heat method. “We’re combining those two processes, which creates this unique and very bright and herbal gin,” she said. “It’s not super juniper forward.” Freeland just released its first whiskey in November—it was barreled in Elk Cove pinot noir barrels to give it a distinct flavor. And the distillery is putting away a rye right now. Soon, Freeland will produce genever, a Dutch liquor considered the “mother of gin.” Kuehler said the process involves taking whiskey off the still and adding botanicals to it. “It’s a sort of nuttier style of gin,” she said, and the distillery will release it in May. The women conducted recipe development, then traveled to Amsterdam “to get it blessed by the Dutch.” Freeland Spirits distributes in Oregon and California, with plans to soon expand into Montana, Idaho and Washington. “We really want to focus on the West Coast for now,” Kuehler 50 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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said. “We don’t want to make a ton of different products, we just want to do exciting things that highlight local agriculture.” Freeland’s tasting room, in Northwest Portland, is open Wednesday through Sunday, and on Fridays and Saturdays it serves full cocktails—when the spot also serves wood-fired pizzas. “We really see the tasting room as an educational experience,” Kuehler said. “We want it to be transparent, so we offer tours at 3 p.m. every day we’re open, we have a really educated bar staff, and when people are sitting in our tasting room they can see the big, beautiful copper pot still. We want everybody to really understand the process and take part in it.” Kuehler didn’t set out to create an all-woman distillery—but she’s happy it worked out that way. She pointed out that women have 50 percent more olfactory sensitivity, and more tastebuds. “Nobody can do what Molly can do because only women possess this level of palate.” “It wasn’t really a driving factor. I was interested in the agricultural piece and I thought that was most important,” she said. “I really wanted to highlight farmers. But getting to know (Carman) and being a woman in such a male-driven industry, and seeing how male-dominated the field is, if I highlight a female farmer and a female distiller, then all of the industry benefits from diversity.”
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Where to Rest Your Head New hotels cropping up around Oregon written by Sheila G. Miller
PEOPLE WANT TO visit Oregon—we’ve seen all the best places lists. Now they’ll have new options for where to rest their heads. In Portland, the Oregon Convention Center has partnered with Metro, Mortenson Development and Hyatt to build a 600-room hotel right in the Rose Quarter. The Hyatt Regency Portland at the Oregon Convention Center is expected to be complete by December 2019, and a full opening will take place in February 2020. In Eugene, Adventurous Journeys Capital Partners is in the process of transforming the Eugene Hilton to Graduate Eugene, a stylish, modern chain of hotels anchored in university communities around the United States. Graduate Hotels are already up and running in university towns like Madison, 52 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL
2019
Wisconsin, and Berkeley, California. The twelve-story Eugene hotel is expected to be complete this summer. And in Redmond, a Woodspring Suites and a Hampton Inn are in development near the Deschutes County Fair & Expo Center and the Redmond Airport. The hotels, to be developed by Heritage Hospitality, are slated to open this year.
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what i’m working on
Washington County Visitors Association
Where in the process is the proposed Tualatin Hills AVA now and what’s next? As of today the submission for the AVA is perfected and we are second in line for publication. We’ve been progressing up the list since the submission was perfected in March 2017, at which time I think we were approximately tenth in line. What excites you about the Valley splitting into these micro wine regions? This represents the maturation of our wine region. A few decades ago, no one knew about the Willamette Valley. The Willamette Valley has achieved broad recognition and brand building has now made the region a recognized top producer of pinot noir. Also, as consumer interest has grown, they appreciate pinot noir’s unique site-specificity and expression. This is where a breakdown of regions and terroir is of interest and beneficial.
ABOVE Apolloni Vineyards will be part of the Tualatin Hills AVA. AT RIGHT Alfredo Apolloni is a proponent of “hyper-regionality.”
Making an Appellation Building a new AVA means divvying up the Willamette Valley by features and flavors interview by Mark Stock
MAPMAKERS ARE PRIMED for plenty of work in Willamette Valley wine country. The state’s epicenter for pinot noir, which stretches from Portland to Eugene, is in the process of being chopped up in the name of terroir. The pieces, called appellations (or American Viticultural Areas), are defined by unique soil types, elevation and topography, and microclimates. Oregon presently has nineteen of these designated growing regions—and counting. The Van Duzer Corridor was just named the Valley’s newest subappellation, set around the famous blustery break in the coastal range near Salem. Five more in the Valley are pending federal approval, including the Tualatin Hills AVA near Forest Grove. The 144,000-acre slab would include producers like Montinore Estate, David Hill Vineyards, Apolloni Vineyards, and more. Proponents of this hyper-regionality, like Apolloni Vineyards owner and winemaker Alfredo Apolloni, say the wines from these pockets demonstrate singular characteristics found there—and only there. 54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Seems like not too long ago people were afraid to talk terroir and now it’s fully embraced—what’s changed? I still think there’s great value in keeping Willamette Valley on labels as the parent AVA, and for some that may be the only thing they recognize. But for others, there is a depth of richness to the vineyards and their unique growing regions and soils. What are some of the main ways your appellation differs from the rest of the Valley (climate, soils, flavors, etc.)? There are two main differentiators here—the first is the climate as the most northern portion of the Willamette Valley has significant impact on lower temperatures and larger diurnal variations. This is becoming more and more important as climate change makes most regions, including the Valley, warmer. The second is soil type. The Laurelwood family of soils that we share with the east slope of the Chehalem Mountain impart unique character to our pinot noirs, exhibiting a style that shows mixed berry fruits, exotic spices, licorice, cedar and briary components, and can show a round, voluptuous tannin structure.
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From Seed to Sip Oregon’s first coastal tea farm written by Michelle DeVona photography by Bill Purcell
Ginger and Brigham Edwards have been farming on the Oregon Coast for more than ten years. The couple runs North Fork 53, a bed and breakfast set on a 3-acre homestead filled with organic gardens. After successfully growing a tea plant a few years back, they realized tea plants thrive in the Northwest’s coastal climate.
Inspired to also make North Fork 53 a wellness retreat, the Edwards began looking into growing medicinal tea plants. They traveled to India and Sri Lanka, visiting tea farms to learn more about the tea production process from local growers.
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2019
my workspace
North Fork 53 is the first farm on the northern coast to grow Camellia sinensis (the botanical name for tea). “We have this weird balance of being at sea level but also having this cool kind of mountaintop mistiness that the tea plants like,” Ginger Edwards said. “So it will be a very unique tea.”
While they’ll have to wait three years to harvest the tea plants for commercial production, the Edwards offer tea garden tours in the summer. In the meantime, they keep busy making, tasting and selling herbal teas made from flowers, trees, fruits and herbs grown right on their farm.
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game changer
From Hobby to Helping Homebrewing club donates to food bank while sharing its skills with the public written by Aliya Hall DESPITE STARTING AS a hobby, Heart of the Valley Homebrewers in Corvallis has turned a passion into a way to give back to the community. The club, which formed in 1982 and is one of the three oldest homebrewing clubs in Oregon, focuses on home brewing beer, cider and wine. Each year it hosts a Homebrewers Fest as well as Septembeerfest, a fundraiser to support local scholarships and organizations that features nearly thirty Oregon breweries setting up tents and offering tastings. Since starting the event in 2006, Septembeerfest has donated $199,555 of its proceeds to the Linn-Benton Food Share, as well as to an endowment at Oregon State University that supports scholarships in fermentation science and other local charities and organizations. Around 70 to 75 percent of the event proceeds are donated to the food share each year. “We all live in this community,” president Dan Rickli said. “Everyone should eat and have access to food. Giving back to the community is the way we can take what we know—beer as a hobby for us—and use that to give back.” Joel Rea has been a member since 1997, and helps run the Septembeerfest. Originally starting as one event, the Homebrewers Fest wanted to celebrate its twenty-fifth anniversary by offering commercial beer tastings, and as a way to encourage the public to see what homebrewing is about. However, due to the number of attendees, the club eventually had to create a separate event. Now the Homebrewing Fest is in the spring, and Septembeerfest in the fall. 58 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
“Breweries get hit up for donations all the time, and are always very generous,” Rea said. “We always want to see their hard work going to great causes, and having an event like this enables the public to have a better sense of what breweries go through.” He also said people are more likely to go out, have a good time and drink a beer if they know it’s going to help someone eat. The club is relatively small, with twenty-five active members and around forty who only pay dues, and Rickli said it’s a big undertaking to put on these festivals for more than 300 people. “It’s a lot of work for a small group,” he said, “but it’s a labor of love.” Rickli joined in 2013, and had been home brewing for around three years when a friend invited him to a meeting. Rickli has a background in engineering and said homebrewing is a challenge— anyone who says they’ve made a perfect beer every time is lying. He added that they have a great community of talented brewers, and Rea said it’s all fueled by the passion. “Speaking from the perspective of a beer nut,” Rea said, “whether it’s fly-fishing, racing or horseback riding, that hobby is a passion. For us, it’s beer. The passion isn’t different, it’s just what we do.”
MARCH | APRIL 2019
“We all live in this community. Everyone should eat and have access to food. Giving back to the community is the way we can take what we know—beer as a hobby for us—and use that to give back.” — Dan Rickli, Heart of the Valley Homebrewers president
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n o i t a b i L tions a c a V Drinks are a natural part of life on vacation. But what if the vacation was … all about the drinks?
We cooked up three perfect libation vacations—wine in the Willamette Valley, beer in and around Bend, and booze in the big city. written by Amira Makansi and Sheila G. Miller
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Bar manager Leah Brown mixes a drink at Angel Face in Portland.
Aubrie LeGault
s MARCH | APRIL 2019
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Wine Time in the Willamette Valley What are you looking for in a wine tasting experience? Clearly, great wine tops the list. But there are other factors, too. What about quality of service? Sweeping vistas? Ambience? And that ever-elusive je ne sais quoi? In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, unique wineries and diverse identities abound— to such an extent it can be difficult to narrow down your tasting list. But on a weekend getaway when time is limited, choosing your top destinations is paramount. Here are five diverse establishments worth a visit on your next escape to the Willamette Valley. If you’re coming to sip wine while enjoying the idyllic views, there’s none better than Fairsing Vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. Fairsing means “bounty” in old Gaelic, and by any measure, Mary Ann and Mike McNally have a bounty of gifts to share. From its expansive view of the Cascades on the horizon to the high praise its wines have won in recent years, Fairsing is one of those lucky spots at the end of the rainbow. No appointment necessary— just drive up and enjoy. For the biodynamic crowd, Brick House Vineyard is a natural next stop. Located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, tastings are by appointment only and the tasting room is closed on Sundays, so add this one to your itinerary several days in advance. As one of the earliest adopters of biodynamic vineyard practices and a consistent producer of top-tier wines, Doug Tunnell and his staff are capable of explaining the appeal and delight of the biodynamic style. Ready for a quick break from fermented grape juice? Spend an evening at the old wood barn in Newberg better known as Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery, one of this state’s most Oregonian establishments. With a diehard commitment to wild, farmhousestyle ales, its brews are among the most innovative in the country. Also on offer: live music, an exuberant crowd, and a gorgeous old-world setting nestled in the 62 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
FROM TOP Fairsing Vineyard has a labyrinth, plus views of the Cascades. Brick House practices biodynamic winemaking. Botanist focuses on gin and on-tap cocktails.
trees. Wolves & People will cleanse your palate and nourish your soul. Start the next day in Carlton, where winemaker Patrick Reuter and viticulturalist Leigh Bartholomew, also biodynamic practitioners, have recently opened a tasting room in a renovated red barn for their label Dominio IV. With some of the coolest wine labels in the business— colorful illustrations hand-drawn to depict the changing flavors and palate shape of the wine over time, like sheet music— they’re going a long way toward making wine more fun and accessible for all. Finish where the Oregon wine industry began—at The Eyrie Vineyards tasting room in downtown McMinnville. In 1965, Oregon wine godfather David Lett of The Eyrie planted his first vines in the Dundee Hills. With other big names taking up a
MARCH | APRIL 2019
fair share of the limelight, it can be easy to forget about the quiet revolutionaries who have been there since the beginning. Pay homage to one of those who started it all and taste through The Eyrie’s impressive collection before you hit the road bound for home. Man cannot live on wine alone: Enjoy a candlelit dinner at Tina’s in Dundee, or opt for the fresh, vegetableforward Latin cuisine at Pura Vida in McMinnville. The burgers at Carlton Corners are unbeatable, as is breakfast at Valley Commissary in McMinnville. For lodging, The Allison Hotel & Spa outside of Newberg will drop jaws and inspire many an Instaphoto shoot, but those who prefer to be in the heart of it all will opt for McMinnville, where The Atticus or McMenamins are centrally located in downtown.
August the Dragonfly Photography
Andrea Johnson Photography
A Cocktail Party in Portland One could make a compelling case that Portland is currently the best city in America to experience the nationwide revolution underway in craft spirits and cocktails. With its crafty, DIY zeitgeist and detailed attention to all things spirited, Portland’s cocktail culture today rivals the storied cocktail cities of New York, Chicago and New Orleans. Don’t believe me? Try it for yourself. In Portland cocktail culture, all roads lead to Rum Club. A haven for cocktail enthusiasts since 2011, the ambience presents a delicious cacophony of sounds and styles, while the drinks—mostly, but not all, based on rum—are among the most harmonious in the city. On my most recent visit, co-owner Mike Shea was shaking drinks for the crowd while evoking the island theme with his Hawaiian shirt. I couldn’t resist asking what inspired him to open a joint centered on rum. He smiled. “Rum gets a bad rap. I wanted to let it shine.” The namesake spirit has star power here, but don’t limit yourself—there are no bad drinks within these walls. Linger on the east side and head to Angel Face for a change of scenery. While Rum Club is crowded, loud and a little wild, Angel Face is quiet, softly lit and French-inspired. A light pink floral wallpaper adorns the walls, contributing to a feminine feel. You won’t find a cocktail menu here. Instead, the bartenders ask your spirit preference and create each drink individually. The house style leads to cocktails that are succulent but spiritous, round and vibrant. From cocktails to food to decor, everything here is clean and classic, with layers of texture and flavor beneath. Eventually, you’ll want to cross the river to the west side. Head first to Botanist, a gin bar whose décor is true to its name. Aiming to breathe life back into the maligned martini, owner Robbie Wilson offers guidance on selecting the appropriate vermouth to accompany a chosen gin. No stodgy drinks found here—the martinis are as fresh as spring. I also sampled a house Negroni and the
Martinez from the cocktail menu. Both drinks were on tap—when I inquired, I was told those particular ingredients do best when marinated together for several days before serving. Both were dark, herbal and spirit-forward. Both sippable and charismatic. If you’re not already traipsing about with a date or drinking partner, you’ll want one handy for our stop at Pépé Le Moko, a basement bomb shelter masquerading as an intimate cocktail bar, complete with candles and black velvet curtains. The Amaretto Sour here is perhaps the perfect cocktail: creamy but ethereal, light but brooding, expressive of all angles of flavor and texture simultaneously. If our cocktail adventure must come to an end, let it end the next morning with a Bloody Mary. Blackheart, a punk rock bar on Belmont back on the east side, serves hearty and delicious breakfast dishes for meat-lovers, vegetarians and vegans alike. Their house bloody, the “Minor Threat”, is a spicy, horseradish-y hangover cure. Between the vegan chicken n waffles and the fried chicken benedict, there’s only one way to leave—satisfied. When the party is over: On Portland’s west side, the cocktail savvy visitor will stay at The Nines, cognizant that Departure and its innovative cocktail bar are on the top floor. The Benson, a historic hotel with an old-world feel, is an elegant choice. On the east side, you can’t go wrong at either The Jupiter, for a quirky pop-culture theme, or Hotel Eastlund, for an artistic take on Mid-century luxury. Rum Club seeks to change rum’s bad reputation. (photo: Kari Young)
Far-flung Spots to Try
Destination breweries, wineries & distilleries for your next road trip
Breweries Barley Brown’s (Baker City) www.barleybrownsbeer.com Terminal Gravity (Enterprise) www.terminalgravitybrewing.com The Prodigal Son (Pendleton) www.prodigalsonbrewery.com pFreim (Hood River) www.pfreimbeer.com DeGarde Brewing (Tillamook) www.degardebrewing.com Block 15 Brewing (Corvallis) www.block15.com Tiger Town Brewing Co. (Mitchell) www.tigertownbrewing.com
Wineries Sunshine Mill (The Dalles) www.sunshinemill.com Paul O’Brien Winery (Roseburg) www.paulobrienwines.com Brandborg Wines (Elkton) www.brandborgwine.com Kriselle Cellars (White City) www.krisellecellars.com Ledger David Cellars (Central Point) www.ledgerdavid.com Wy’East Vineyards (Hood River) www.wyeastvineyards.com Tumwater Vineyard (West Linn) www.tumwatervineyard.com
Distilleries Oregon Grain Growers Distillery (Pendleton) www.oregongrain.com Immortal Spirits & Distilling Company (Medford) www.immortalspirits.com Cannon Beach Distillery (Cannon Beach) www.cannonbeachdistillery.com Clear Creek Distillery (Hood River) www.clearcreekdistillery.com Stein Distillery (Joseph) www.steindistillery.com Ewing Young Distillery (Newberg) www.ewingyoungdistillery.com
Breweries in Bend Nowhere in Oregon is so synonymous with beer as Bend. This reputation started with Deschutes Brewery, certainly, but in the past decade the number of breweries in Bend and the surrounding towns has ballooned to more than thirty. It seems every hotel has a brewery package— moreover, in Bend and its environs you can drink local beer while snowshoeing, while riding on a giant cycle-powered bar, while soaking your feet in the same drink as the one in your pint glass. In short, this place is crazy for suds. It’s darn near impossible to try every Central Oregon brewery in a weekend (though you can try—use Visit Bend’s Ale
Trail map, which hands out stamps for eighteen in Bend). Instead of trying to hit them all, play it smart. For starters, you can go to a bar with a big, beautiful tap list. Try Broken Top Bottle Shop—at the base of College Way, this spot has a dozen taps constantly rotating with mostly Oregon beer. It also has a twelve-door cooler with more than 400 bottles and cans—local and otherwise. Basically, if you’re looking for it, it’s likely to be here. You can also swing by one of the food cart pods in Bend, all of which have central bars with at least a dozen beers on tap, mostly local—The Lot has heated benches, lots of beer, and trivia and music nights; at On Tap in northeast Bend, there’s more than thirty tap handles; at River’s Place just down the road, the tap
list is extensive and the food is next-level (a hot sandwich from Hogan’s Hoagies or a crepe from We’re the Wurst—or both— will keep the beers in check). Or hit up the gas station. Growler Guys started in Bend and has spread throughout the Northwest and inspired many copycats. But like many things, the original remains the best, with fifty-five taps and all kinds of odd kegs you just can’t get outside Bend. Bendites love to combine their beer with other activities. They may know all the best secret trails, floats and vistas where they toast with a locally made IPA, but Wanderlust Tours is happy to show you the ropes, too. The tour company offers snowshoe-and-beer trips in the winter, canoes-and-brews trips in the spring, summer and fall, and brewery tours year-round.
Kristin Wills
The Mighty Creature Company
Tommy Sims
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Bend Brewing recently added a grassy outdoor area. On Tap combines a big beer list with food carts. Deschutes is the O.G. of Bend breweries, but it’s constantly evolving, like with these beer brunch drinks.
Go deeper by heading to Immersion Brewing, which in addition to serving food and beer at its pub in the Box Factory also offers “Brew-It-Yourself ” sessions where a brewer helps you and your friends brew your own signature beer. Pick from one of twenty-eight recipes or work with your brewer to customize—bottles, caps, ingredients are all included in the price and you can either come back three weeks later to bottle or pick up, or participate in Brew It Forward, which lets you take home beer the same day and brew for the next group. Finally, create an itinerary that combines the old with the new. For old-school flavor, start at Bend Brewing Co. Established in 1995, this long-standing brewery recently added a large lawn with a food cart, outdoor taps and a nice view of Mirror
Pond. Bonus—the reason this brewery has been around so long is because it’s beer is so good. Hop just a few blocks east to Deschutes Brewery’s downtown pub, and ask to sit on the original side. Then find out why Deschutes is famous—because its beer remains pretty much unparalleled. The pub always has exclusive beers, so grab a taster tray or two and be reminded that sometimes the originals are the best. Then head a few more blocks east to Silver Moon Brewing, another steadfast, long-serving member of the brewing community. This pub also got a recent facelift, making it a lot more accessible, but the beer has stayed the same (amazing) and the locals vibe remains—bingo, game night, lots of karaoke contests. Then it’s time for the new ones—Bridge 99 Brewery is tucked away in an odd place on Empire Avenue, but don’t be turned off by the location. This spot has a new tasting room that’s all glossy wood, nice servers and an extensive list of very good beer. They’ll can you a crowler to go, too. Bevel Craft Brewing is expected to open early in 2019, the product of two world-class disc golf champions who love IPA and want to share it with the world. And then swing through Spider City Brewing, a womanowned brewery that started in their garage (aka Spider City). This ambitious production has a downtown tasting room in Tin Pan Alley and a brewery taproom on the southeast side of town. Bread and bed: When you’re done with beer, it’s time for food. For international tastes, try Spork and its many curries, rice bowls and, my lord, the fried chicken. For modern comfort food, head to the Old Mill’s new Boxwood Kitchen & Supper Club and don’t miss the Brussels sprouts. Or head off the beaten path for some street tacos at El Sancho, where you can trade in your craft beers for a good old Pacifico (though you can get local craft beers, too). Get some sleep at The Oxford Hotel in downtown Bend, mere steps from a dozen bars and a half-dozen brewpubs. Or try the Wall Street Suites, also close to all the action and equipped with bikes to get you to some of the brewpubs less traveled.
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Mt. Bachelor’s Mac, Banyan and Riggins survey their domain.
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RUNNING WITH THE
BIG DOGS AVALANCHE DOG PROGRAMS IN OREGON PROVIDE THE FIRST LINE OF RESPONSE WHEN THERE IS DANGER ON THE MOUNTAIN
written by Amy Korst photography by Bradley Lanphear MARCH | APRIL 2019
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Sage, one of Mt. Hood Meadows’ avalanche dogs, rides the lift.
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MAC, A 10-MONTH-OLD CHOCOLATE LAB, IS LEARNING TO BE AN AVALANCHE DOG ON MOUNT BACHELOR. HIS HANDLER IS BURIED IN A SHALLOW SNOW CAVE ALONGSIDE ONE OF BACHELOR’S POPULAR PINE MARTEN RUNS, WHILE MAC WAITS UP AT THE LOOKOUT TOWER THAT SERVES AS A MOUNTAINTOP SKI PATROL HEADQUARTERS. As soon as his handler is safely sealed inside the snow cave, Mac gets the go-ahead. Wearing a red vest adorned with a white cross, he races out of the lookout tower and bolts down the mountain ski run alongside a roaring snowmobile. The snowmobile stops, and Mac knows exactly what to do. His job is to sniff out his trapped handler and unbury him as quickly as possible. He dives into a snowbank, tail wagging, paws furiously digging, snow flying. On Mac’s first drill of the day, it takes him just one minute to punch a hole into the snow cave. As soon as Mac catches sight of his handler, he dives into the hole and starts to pull his handler out. Cheers, whistles and shouts of “Good boy, Mackie!” ring through the air. Training an avalanche dog takes care, patience and persistence. The foundational training work takes several years to complete, and avalanche rescue dogs will continue to participate in training drills several times a week for the duration of their career. In Oregon, for both Mt. Bachelor and Mt. Hood Meadows ski resorts, teams of handlers and their “avy” dogs attend annual training sessions around the country specifically designed to hone their skills. Before Mac’s training is complete, he will learn to safely ride in chairlifts and helicopters, on snow cats and snowmobiles. He will learn to run down the mountain between the skis of his handler while safely avoiding the sharp edges, sit still in a toboggan and tolerate being carried on his handler’s shoulders. He will undergo intense socialization and obedience training. He will learn to dig multiple victims out of
the snow in drills that simulate emergency scenarios as closely as possible. And, as careful deployment of explosives and gun shots is part of avalanche prevention, these dogs even learn to take loud sounds like explosions and fireworks in stride. “We consider dogs to be our backup insurance policy,” said Matt Baldwin, ski patrol training supervisor at Mt. Bachelor. “The dogs are their worst-case scenario. If an avalanche were to happen in-bounds at a ski area, the dogs are the first line of defense. They are specifically trained to find someone buried in an avalanche, buried in snow, using their nose. Using scent. That is their sole job up here at the hill. Now that’s not the end-all, be-all if the worst were to happen. If the dogs didn’t turn up a scent, we are still going to continue our rescue efforts, but it definitely gives you that first big sigh of relief.” Avalanche dog rescue programs have existed since the 1930s, when the Swiss Army started deploying dogs for avalanche search and rescue. Researchers have found a single dog is as efficient as twenty people, and that the dog can clear an area in an eighth of the time it takes human search-and-rescue teams. Today, the Swiss continue to be leaders in avalanche dog training, having developed a four-phase training program known as the Swiss Method. Both of Oregon’s avalanche dog programs use aspects of the Swiss Method. Dave Baker with Mt. Hood’s ski patrol program said after the avy dogs-in-training complete their initial obedience courses, they enter the four phases of the Swiss Method. Each phase involves the dog, the dog’s handler, another partner and a shallow hole in the snow.
Mt. Bachelor’s avalanche dogs participate in a training exercise at the mountain. First, a hole is dug where a trainer and stranger will hide and wait to be rescued. After the dogs pull people from the cave, they are rewarded for their hard work.
FROM LEFT Banyan, a golden retriever, is one of the old pros at Mt. Bachelor. Stella rides on a rescue toboggan behind Dave Baker. Avy dog Enzo practices rappelling from the chairlift. Baker, center, and members of Mt. Hood’s ski patrol.
“WE CONSIDER DOGS TO BE OUR BACKUP INSURANCE POLICY. THE DOGS ARE THEIR WORST-CASE SCENARIO. IF AN AVALANCHE WERE TO HAPPEN IN-BOUNDS AT A SKI AREA, THE DOGS ARE THE FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE.” Phase one is basically a game of hide-and seek for the dog. The handler teases and excites the dog while the dog is being held by the partner, then runs and jumps in the hole. The dog chases after his handler, and upon jumping into the hole, earns “big loves,” as Baker said. Phase two repeats the same game, but before the dog is released to chase after her handler, the entrance to the hole is covered in soft snow blocks, which encourages the dog to start digging at the strongest scent. In phase three, a third person is added to the mix to teach the dog to search for people
other than her handler. The handler and the “stranger” enter the snow cave together. The stranger, rather than the handler, rewards the dog with a favorite toy or treat when she digs into the cave. In phase four, the dog’s handler is eliminated and the dog searches instead for the stranger. At this point, Baker said, the dog is working to learn what is called “victim loyalty,” or to keep digging without cues or direction from the handler. In the event of an actual avalanche, it’s imperative that the dog keeps searching for people buried in the snow while the handler works elsewhere. Mt. Hood’s avalanche dog program currently has seven handlers and six dogs, including Baker’s own yellow lab, two black labs, a border collie/black lab mix, a golden retriever and a Nova Scotia duck-hauling retriever. The dogs range in age from 1-year-old to Baker’s pup, which is 9½ years old and nearing retirement. Baker and a second handler work together to train Enzo, one of Mt. Hood’s black labs. Like Mt. Hood, Mt. Bachelor’s avalanche dog program also employs retriever breeds. There are four dogs on staff at Bachelor: Mango and Banyan, both golden retrievers, a black lab named Riggins and Mac.
“There are tons of breeds that you can choose from when you’re choosing an avalanche dog. There’s no exact guideline,” Baldwin said. “The dog either has it or they don’t.” Retriever breeds are popular because of their disposition. “They are great, friendly dogs,” Baldwin said. “A lot of the work we do up here is PR work, so we use them as educational tools for ski school groups and in the community, going to schools, giving seminars, and everybody loves a big goofy lab. And they are incredible working dogs, they are great athletes, they are durable, they’re just great dogs.” Plus, Baker said, retrievers are built for the work avalanche dogs do. The dogs have distinct personalities and skill sets they bring to the job. Take Riggins and Banyan at Mt. Bachelor, for example. Banyan, a 5-year-old golden retriever, loves to play. During training breaks, he finds a stick and settles in for a nice chew, but as soon as it’s time to work, he knows he has a job to do. Banyan pulls people he rescues from the snow cave with a gentle mouth and a soft touch. Riggins, on the other hand, is possibly the most hyper-focused dog on the planet. He is made for this work, is intensely disciplined
and during training breaks, doesn’t quite know what to do with himself. He doesn’t have Banyan’s gentle tug, but rather yanks victims from the jaws of a snow cave. At the end of the day, these remarkable dogs return home with their humans, who seem in awe of having the privilege to work with them. “You get to train your dog to be one of the coolest dogs out there,” Baker said. “The bond between the handler and the dog is absolutely awesome.” Baldwin’s veteran avalanche dog, Wyatt, retired from duty last year, though Baldwin said Wyatt misses the slopes and gets to visit from time to time. “Truly, it’s been one of the more incredible partnerships I’ve had. He was by my side constantly,” he said. “We were able to key into each other immediately. He was my buddy for ten years up here. The biggest thing is being able to have your dog right there, by your side, its entire career. From skiing around with him as a puppy in my backpack to this whole last season.” Today, Wyatt rests at home, secure after years of service knowing the elite few he helped train will watch over the mountain in his stead, keeping us all safe.
THE OFFBEAT BONNET VAULT photography by Jason Quigley HATS OF HORSEHAIR, hats of feathers, hats of … mushrooms? It’s all waiting for you at the National Hat Museum, which is tucked in a Victorian home on SE Ladd Avenue in Portland. The United States’ largest hat museum features almost 2,000 hats spanning 200 years that have been doffed from famous and not-so-famous heads. With a tour guide dressed in 1900s period attire, you’ll see why the hat was the most essential accessory for decades. Just know, this isn’t the type of place you can just stop in—tours are by appointment only, through Airbnb Experiences or by calling the museum.
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Lu Ann Trotebas, the museum’s director, shows off some headgear.
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Trotebas shows off a red number. AT RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A collection of cloche hats from the 1920s. The museum has hats dating back to the Civil War, such as this spun-straw hat. Hats of all eras, styles and materials are on display. Top hats made of beaver, like this one, were once quite popular.
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FAR LEFT, FROM TOP Museum guests are asked to guess the material this “mystery hat” is made from. Feathers and other adornments make each hat unique. Straw derbies of all kinds are on display.
ABOVE Nearly 2,000 hats are on display at the Portland museum.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 82 ADVENTURE 84 LODGING 86 TRIP PLANNER 88
pg. 88 With parks and refurbished historic buildings, Redmond is coming into its own.
Caleb Thomas
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92
THE COAST YOU REMEMBER 1-800-COAST44 / DISCOVERNEWPORT.COM
travel spotlight
Travel Spotlight
Meat Bingo It’s just what it sounds like—and it’s raucously popular in Astoria written and photographed by Joni Kabana
Sunday night Meat Bingo at Workers Tavern in Astoria.
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“THIS AIN’T YOUR grandma’s BINGO!” It’s a phrase often hollered from the crowd on Sunday nights at Workers Tavern in Astoria. From the heated frenzy that occurs when caller Simon flashes a pound of bacon for that winning card’s prize, it is not. Meat Bingo (referred to by locals as “church”) started more than thirty years ago in this popular bar in Astoria’s Uniontown (aka Finn Town) neighborhood, an area that reveres its rebellious history and current-day shenanigans. It was here that disgruntled gill netters formed the Union Packing Company cooperative in defiance of local canneries and the revolutionist Ghadar Party held its first meeting. The raucous spirit lives on. The meat often comes from Oregon organic farms or 4-H raised animals when a sponsor ponies up, but even the evening’s “boobie prize” of gizzards, head cheese or bologna gets a roaring ovation when winner takes all. Games start at 6:30 p.m., but you’ll want to get there by 4:30 p.m. to assure a seat. Bring a bit of competitive defiance.
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adventure
Off-road and Offbeat
Brewing in the backcountry of Oregon written by Matt Wastradowski
DAVE MARLIAVE, brewmaster and co-owner of Flat Tail Brewing in Corvallis, jokes that brewers would be the most popular survivors in a post-apocalyptic world—“Thanks to this talent we have for turning things into booze,” he said. The way he sees it, brewers use natural ingredients all the time—Marliave himself has brewed with marionberries and the lemon verbena plant before— so what if he took that idea to its extreme? “How would that actually work out?” he asked. “What would that beer taste like?” In September 2016, he decided to find out. An avid motorcycle rider, Marliave teamed up with friend and then-Flat Tail bartender Alan Hendricks to brew beer during a dirt-bike trip through the Oregon backcountry—using only ingredients he could buy at Safeway. That last detail—the store-bought ingredients—arose when a couple friends dropped out of the trip at the last minute, leaving Marliave without hops or grains. Missing those essential ingredients, Marliave wasn’t sure how to salvage the trip. But inspiration struck. “That’s when it occurred to me—it’d be even cooler with just things you could buy in a grocery store. So we’re not just brewing beer on the back of dirt bikes, we’re brewing beer with Safeway-bought materials,” he said. “This is going to be way more difficult, but it’s also going to make the project way more fun.” So Marliave bought 4 pounds of rolled oats and 1 pound of Hot Wheat before setting out from Ashland. The duo arrived at a campsite near Prospect that first night and got to work. The only problem? Marliave needed a certain enzyme—one that converts starch to fermentable sugar. That enzyme is typically found in malted brewer’s grain. Without it, Marliave could only produce oatmeal. He knew that same enzyme was found in the human mouth, so the duo solved the problem the only way they could. “We chewed every ounce of oatmeal, one mouthful at a time, spat it back into a bowl, added warm water, and converted it just with mouth enzymes,” Marliave said. “My mouth has never been drier.” After more than an hour of chewing and spitting, Marliave combined the ingredients with freshly picked fir and pine needles—in lieu of hops—and heated the mash in a foldable silicone pot with little more than a butane camp stove. (On 84 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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subsequent nights, Marliave kept the water warm by sleeping with the container in his sleeping bag.) Rather than relying on specific yeast strains, he used ambient yeast from the surrounding mountain air. The hard work was over, leaving Marliave with only a nagging uncertainty while the sour ale fermented. “We were thinking, how are we going to do this? Did we do this all for nothing? Could we have just packed 20 pounds of gear and had a great ride instead?” The next morning, Marliave moved the mash into a 1-gallon container and tied it to his dirt bike as he and Hendricks
Photos: Dave Marliave
adventure
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The brewers rode dirt bikes across the outback of Oregon. The mash in the beer used chewed oatmeal and fir and pine needles. Marliave at the brewery.
continued on to Crescent Lake the next night. The duo camped near Bend the following evening and returned to Corvallis the next day. One month later, Marliave bottled the beer and let it carbonate before trying the finished product. A week after bottling, Marliave joined a radio show hosted by the Brewing Network in Concord, California, to recount the adventure and try the beer. “I was horrified,” Marliave said of the big reveal. “I thought it was going to be absolutely undrinkable, and it would be just a drain pour.”
Marliave worried most about winding up with a flat, bitter ale to show for all that work. But as the hosts opened the bottle, the beer had carbonated too aggressively—and shot out of the bottle like a geyser, drenching the studio’s new mixing board. Just enough remained for the crew to taste. So how was it? “It wasn’t the best beer in the world,” Marliave admitted. “There were definitely some things I would do differently—it would have actually been a fun beer, had it aged long enough. But we made beer that was drinkable.” MARCH | APRIL 2019
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ROOMS
Depending on which side of the hotel they’re on—Cornelius or Woodlark— the hotel’s 150 guestrooms are done either in restful greys or a bold navy color palette, with sleek modern glass, marble and brass accents. Distinctive headboards in a deep Pacific Northwest emerald green and playful botanicalprint wallpaper based on Portland-born photographer Imogen Cunningham’s work add splashes of color, and the Loft Suites have soaring 15-foot ceilings and open loft bedrooms.
FEATURES
One of the hotel’s finest features is its gorgeous bar, dubbed Abigail Hall after noted Portland writer and women’s rights activist Abigail Scott Duniway, who gathered with her fellow suffragists in the Ladies Reception Room of the former Cornelius Hotel—the very same room the bar now inhabits. Developed and overseen by restaurateur Jennifer Quist, the space beckons with soft pink and maroon leather banquettes, a flickering fireplace and hand-painted floral walls by Portland artist Michael Paulus. The bar pairs Teardrop Lounge alum Daniel Osborne’s spritzes, martinis and Manhattans with chef Doug Adam’s caviar and cucumber sandwiches, Dungeness crab rolls and buttermilk chicken fingers with avocado ranch— not to mention a mean burger.
DINING
Bullard is named after chef Doug Adams’ Texas hometown, and melds his culinary roots with Oregon’s natural bounty, resulting in dishes like Texas red tamales served in the husk, smoked pork belly with grilled apple relish, and a hefty woodfire-grilled T-bone steak dinner. The lovely curved marble lobby coffee bar, run by local roaster Good Coffee, serves Adams’ Texas-style kolaches—soft, sweet, yeasty Czech breakfast pastries.
AMENITIES
Rooms are stocked with the usual Provenance Hotel luxuries—local artisan wares in the honor bars, pillow menus, Italian linens, Well+Fit kits, free Wifi, and Salt & Straw ice cream room service menus. Pay special attention to the hotel’s art collection, which features the work of internationally known Portland-born photographer Imogen Cunningham, as well as original abstract paintings by Portland artist and visual designer Maja Dlugolecki.
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Woodlark Hotel combines Portland history with top-shelf design. The hotel occupies the former Cornelius Hotel on SW Alder Street. Abigail Hall, the hotel bar, is one of the hotel’s best features.
Woodlark Hotel written by Jen Stevenson ONE OF PORTLAND’S most anticipated hotel projects finally opened its doors this winter, thanks to a merry band of heavy hospitality industry hitters who’ve transformed downtown’s former Cornelius Hotel and Woodlark buildings into a mecca of priceless Portland history, beautiful design and fine food and drink. Woodlark’s seventy-seat restaurant, Bullard, is of particular interest to the scores of food lovers who waited with brisket-baited breath for Portland chef Doug Adams’ new project. A collaboration between Adams—former executive chef of Imperial restaurant, Top Chef finalist, and James Beard Rising Star Chef Award nominee—and former Multnomah Whiskey Library director and restaurateur Jennifer Quist, Bullard serves Adams’ Texas-inflected fare with Oregon heart and soul. Come for the Woodlark’s central location—steps from Powell’s Books, the West End’s trendy boutiques and the MAX light rail line that leads straight to Washington Park’s myriad natural wonders—stay for the Salt & Straw ice cream room service, mighty Bullard T-bone steak dinner, and in the morning, when you’re quite possibly nursing a pickleback-related hangover, a Good Coffee cappuccino and warm-from-the-oven kolache. 813 SW ALDER ST. PORTLAND www.woodlarkhotel.com
North Umpqua River
For more than 20 years the best chefs and winemakers from around Oregon have joined forces at Steamboat Inn to create a special night of food, drink, and friendship. Reserve your place at the table and join the tradition.
thesteamboatinn.com Photo by justinbailie.com Steamboat Inn operates under a Special Use Permit from the Umpqua National Forest
877.514.2391
800.480.2477 • INNATNYEBEACH.COM
trip planner Smith Rock is a short drive and a must-see state park.
Redmond, Reborn
Caleb Thomas
Central Oregon’s oft-overlooked city is getting cool before our eyes written by Sheila G. Miller
NOT SO LONG AGO, downtown Redmond was crowded— but not in a good way. Thousands of vehicles traveling north and south on U.S. Highway 97 drove right through the middle of downtown on Fifth and Sixth streets. Semi trucks coughed plumes of diesel and horns honked all day—downtown Redmond a decade ago was not a place you lingered. But ten years can mean a lot of change, and Redmond has made great strides. Today, this is a city center that has been reborn. There are vestiges of the old city—a Sears Hometown store still holds a prominent place in the downtown core and the Historic New Redmond Hotel is undergoing what may seem like never-ending renovations. But around the corner is a cityoperated ice rink, Centennial Park with its green space at 88 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
the center of downtown, and Evergreen Elementary reborn as a stately city hall. You could come looking for the Redmond that was famous for having a polar bear at the gas station (the glass case is now empty), but why not explore the new version? Look closer—you’ll see the boom all around you as new businesses open, small shops thrive and downtown gets crowded again, this time with people.
MARCH | APRIL 2019
Day BEER • WAFFLES • MOVIES One of the great benefits of Redmond is that the airport is here, which means you can get off a plane and have a locally crafted beer in your hand within fifteen (maybe ten) minutes. Bend may get the attention when it comes to beer, but Redmond has a burgeoning scene of its own. Cascade Lakes Brewing, which started in 1994 and is among the oldest breweries in Central Oregon, got its start in Redmond and still has a brewpub and its production facility here. Since then, Silver Moon Brewing has moved its production facility to Redmond, and other breweries have popped up all over. Start at Wild Ride Brewing on Fifth Street, which opened in 2014 and immediately became a vital part of the community. The tap room has a relaxed vibe, with garage doors that open up to a huge patio area. Instead of serving its own
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English ales and Dry Fields Cider are in the same complex on the edge of town. Man cannot live on beer alone—we know, we’ve tried. Redmond has recently seen a bunch of Bend restaurants open outposts in town—The Hideaway, Baldy’s Barbeque, Croutons, Hola!, and the Bend Burger Co., though it’s called the Redmond Burger Co. here. They’re all good options, but this city has its own culinary stars. Try Oishi, a sushi restaurant on Sixth Street with an extensive menu and a cult following. Or check out another downtown favorite, Diego’s Spirited Kitchen, which offers international food and killer margaritas. Diego’s is owned by the same people behind Madaline’s, on South Highway 97 (another great option). Or you can combine dinner and a movie at the Odem Theater Pub. This longtime theater building sat empty before the new owners spruced it up, added beer taps and a full dinner menu and started showing first-run movies. Book a movie online, grab a burger and a beer and make a night of it. Dan Mooney
in-house food, several food carts have made their home in the parking area nearby. Grab a Shredtown Bowl, then pair it with a Nut Crusher Peanut Butter Porter and prepare the rest of your day. Swing a few blocks over to The Vault Taphouse, on Sixth Street. The taphouse serves primarily beers from Kobold Brewing, a recent addition to Redmond’s beer scene. Taster trays are $10 and you’ll get a wide variety of great flavors. From there, move two doors down to Proust Coffee for a perk up. This little coffee shop is small and spare, with a shelf of books to borrow on the wall and a very powerful weapon—liege waffles, crunchy on the outside with caramelized sugar throughout. Once you’ve recharged with a latte and a waffle, try another brewery—Smith Rock Brewing is also in the downtown core and has a cool outdoorsy theme. Initiative Brewing is in the process of opening a space that formerly housed a bank, and Porter Brewing with its cask-conditioned
Day SMITH ROCK • SHOPPING • MARTINIS Start your day with the short trip to Terrebonne and take in one of Oregon’s most beautiful places—Smith Rock State Park. It’s a fifteen-minute drive but well worth it to take in the spires, sheer cliffs and deep river canyons that look otherworldly. This is a must-visit if you’re a rock climber, but there are plenty of outdoor opportunities out here, including hiking and biking trails. Wear proper footwear, bring water and ascend the 5.5-mile Summit Trail for epic views and a true feeling of accomplishment. If you’d rather keep it close to town, meander through Redmond’s Dry Canyon. This park runs through the middle of the city, with a 3.7-mile trail, a disc golf course, Hope Playground— an accessible, inclusive playground that has structures for all ages and abilities—and the Maple Avenue Bridge, which has climbing routes on its arches. Whatever outdoor adventure you pursue, it’s bound to jumpstart your appetite. Head back to Redmond and hit up Bogey’s for a burger and waffle fries or the Sno-Cap for a milkshake—this place is old school, and it’s still nearly always full. If you’re feeling the need to keep the health trend 90 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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going, try a juice or smoothie from Just Cut Organic Juice Bar, which also has a gym inside. Now it’s time to shop. Traverse Fifth and Sixth streets, the main section of downtown. Here you’ll find a variety of boutiques, like Willow Wild and Welcome Home, which has a whimsical selection of home and design products. And no stop in downtown Redmond is complete without a trip to Herringbone Books, an independent bookstore with a solid selection for everyone in the family. The bookstore focuses quite a bit on local favorites and hosts lots of events. Head off the main drags and over to Fourth and Evergreen to check out Beyond the Ranch Antiques, a 6,500-square-foot space chock full of antiques. Areas throughout the store are organized into themes, and there’s an outdoor “yard art” section. This is particularly a must-see if you’re at all into Western-style décor. Finish your day at Red Martini Kitchen & Cocktails. The dinner menu is sophisticated and adventurous, and the martinis are the perfect end to a perfect weekend in your new favorite Central Oregon city.
REDMOND, OREGON
trip planner
EAT Bogey’s Burgers www.bogeysburgers.com Red Martini Kitchen & Cocktails www.redmartiniandwinebar.com Just Cut Organic Juice Bar www.justcutjuicebar.com Proust Coffee www.proustcoffee.com Oishi www.facebook.com/oishi.redmond Diego’s Spirited Kitchen www.diegosspiritedkitchen.com
STAY Eagle Crest www.eagle-crest.com Panacea at the Canyon www.panacearesort.com
PLAY Beyond the Ranch Antiques www.beyond-the-ranch.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Wild Ride Brewing is Redmond’s backyard bonfire for locals. Oishi’s sushi brings visitors from all over Central Oregon. Beyond the Ranch has antiques of all kinds. Grab a beer and a film at the new Odem Theater Pub.
Herringbone Books www.herringbonebooks. indielite.org
Caleb Thomas
The Vault Taphouse www.koboldbrewing.com Odem Theater Pub www.odemtheaterpub.com Smith Rock State Park www.oregonstateparks.org Dry Canyon www.visitredmondoregon.com/ Dry-Canyon
Caleb Thomas
Caleb Thomas
Wild Ride Brewing www.wildridebrew.com
MARCH | APRIL 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 91
northwest destination
Riverfront Park has been renovated since it hosted the World’s Fair in 1974, but remains just as beautiful.
Spokane Rising
Spokane is the right jumping-off point for outdoor adventure and sophisticated city life written by Cara Strickland
IF YOU’RE LOOKING for an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise, you’ll find it in Spokane. Five ski resorts, seventy-six lakes and five national parks are within driving distance, a river runs through the city, and the Centennial Trail offers 37 miles for hiking and biking with a mountain backdrop. If you’re feeling a little less extreme, you can stroll through one of Spokane’s many parks, including the crown jewel, Manito Park, which boasts 90 acres of gardens, a conservatory and a duck pond, plus two playgrounds for your little ones. Bring a picnic and enjoy the rose garden or get some zen in the Japanese garden. Just a couple blocks away, you’ll find Rockwood Bakery, a staple of Spokane’s historic South Hill neighborhood, known for its freshly made, decadent baked goods and quiche.
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Aaron Theisen
Just down the hill, you’ll want to check out a newly renovated Riverfront Park. While there are still touches from when Spokane hosted the World’s Fair in 1974 (don’t forget to try out the big red wagon that doubles as a slide, as well as the vintage carousel) you’ll also find the new ice ribbon, the first on the West Coast. Those aren’t the only renovations you’ll encounter in the downtown area. The Historic Davenport Hotel has been restored to the glory days and is a luxurious lodging option, while the Martin Woldson Theater at The Fox is back to its Art Deco splendor—it’s now home to the Spokane Symphony. The First Interstate Center for the Arts plays host to a range of traveling Broadway shows. If your kids are along, you’ll want to check out Mobius, a science center and children’s museum which recently moved to a larger home. In the summer, catch a minor league baseball game with the Spokane Indians and in the winter, check out Spokane’s hockey team, the Chiefs. The food and drink scene has been undergoing changes as well. Hometown boy and Top Chef contestant Chad White has brought Mexican flavors with his ceviche bar Zona Blanca. Just across the river, you’ll find Ruins, known for its ever-switching menu and delicious lunchtime sandwiches.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Swing by Riverside State Park to see Spokane in its glory. A chocolate croissant from Chaps is a perfect way to start the day. Steel Barrel taproom has a variety of local breweries on tap.
For breakfast, head off the beaten path to Chaps, known for long lines on the weekends and baked blueberry French toast. You can’t beat The Flying Goat for pizza, plus it’s on the way to Riverside State Park, another of Spokane’s natural gems. If you’re looking for a special occasion meal, try out Clover, near Gonzaga University, Wild Sage (known for its attention to special diets) and Mizuna (which has dedicated menus for vegetarians as well as carnivores). If you’re willing to drive a little farther, slide over the border to Post Falls, Idaho, for a James Beard-nominated taste of France at Fleur De Sel. There’s no shortage of beer, wine and spirits in the area. For a glass with a view, visit Arbor Crest Wine Cellars in the Spokane Valley. The winery sits on a hill and features a historic estate. Bring your own picnic and spend a day, or swing by one of the summer concerts. Take a tour (and a taste) of Dry Fly Distillery’s new facility, whether you’re into gin, whiskey or vodka. Taste test small batches from local brewers at Steel Barrel Taproom. Whether your idea of a getaway involves adventure, relaxation, or eating and drinking your way through a city, there’s something for you in Spokane. This is just the tip of the iceberg. MARCH | APRIL 2019
SPOKANE, WASHINGTON
northwest destination
EAT Rockwood Bakery www.bit.ly/2FO30x1 Zona Blanca www.limefishsalt.com Ruins www.facebook.com/ruins.spokane Chaps www.chapsgirl.com The Flying Goat www.theflyinggoat.com Clover www.cloverspokane.com Wild Sage www.wildsagebistro.com Mizuna www.mizuna.com Fleur De Sel www.fleur-de-sel.weebly.com
STAY The Davenport Hotels www.davenporthotelcollection.com Northern Quest Resort and Casino www.northernquest.com The Montvale Hotel www.montvalespokane.com
PLAY The Centennial Trail www.spokanecentennialtrail.org Manito Park www.manitopark.org Riverfront Park www.my.spokanecity.org/ riverfrontpark The Martin Woldson Theater at The Fox www.foxtheaterspokane.org The First Interstate Center for the Arts www.inbpac.com Mobius www.mobiusspokane.org Arbor Crest Wine Cellars www.arborcrest.com Riverside State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/ 573/Riverside Dry Fly Distillery www.dryflydistilling.com Steel Barrel Taproom www.thesteelbarrel.com Spokane Indians www.milb.com/spokane Spokane Chiefs www.spokanechiefs.com
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 93
1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
17 Oregon Cheese Fest
48 Freeland Spirits
82
Meat Bingo
28 Rivers Edge Chèvre
52 Graduate Eugene
84
Crescent Lake
36 Dundee Hills
54 Tualatin Hills AVA
86
Woodlark Hotel
42 Carson Storch
56 North Fork 53
88
Wild Ride Brewing
44 Oregon Wine L.A.B.
58 Heart of the Valley Homebrewers
92
Spokane, Washington
94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
MARCH | APRIL 2019
Joseph
160 110
FRANCISCO, stroke survivor.
THIS IS WHAT HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE LOOKS LIKE. You might not see or feel its symptoms, but the results – a heart attack or stroke – are far from invisible or silent. If you’ve come off your treatment plan, get back on it, or talk with your doctor to create a new exercise, diet and medication plan that works better for you. Go to
LowerYourHBP.org before it’s too late.
Until Next Time
Steam-Powered Memories written and photographed by Rod Chandler
STEAM PUFFING FROM my cousin Dale Chandler’s rebuilt steam-traction-engine stirred precious memories for me on a bright June morning in 2018. His was not just any steam tractor, but one that Dale’s father, my uncle Grant, had owned many years ago. In the 1950s, Uncle Grant would fire up the old steamer and drive along the country roads outside La Grande where we lived on small farms. We would run from all over to jump on the skiff behind the tractor and get a turn in the cabin, heat from the firebox hot against our legs. Of course, every kid got to pull the rope that sent a blast of steam through the whistle, a sound that could be heard up to a mile away. Uncle Grant was a machinist in La Grande, where he maintained steam locomotives and later, diesel engines running on the Union Pacific rails. He was a part-time gunsmith, a collector of historic firearms and the owner of a couple steam tractors. In 1939, he bought J.I. Case steam traction engine #30302 from a rancher outside North Powder. With our grandfather John Alden Chandler aboard, and Aunt Arda towing a trailer with wood for the firebox, Uncle Grant drove the tractor nearly 40 miles, at 4 mph, down Ladd Canyon to home. They made several stops at creeks along the way to refill boiler tanks and resupply the wood box. The old tractor was operational when it arrived home, but many repairs were still required. Before long, however, Uncle Grant had the steamer running as well as when she’d rolled off the Racine, Wisconsin, assembly line in 1913. When Uncle Grant died in the early 1980s, no one was left to maintain his steam tractors. Old #30302 was sold to a hobbyist from Imbler who kept the tractor until he died. After that, the old steamer became a rusting relic, standing among weeds and briars in a Grande Ronde Valley field. Cousin Dale happened to spot the old machine, and the idea of allowing her to deteriorate any further was more than he could bear. In 2011, Dale bought the tractor, hauled it home and began the tedious work necessary to get the old girl restored and fired up again. Dale replaced the canopy, reconditioned the boilers, scraped away stubborn rust and applied new paint. 96 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Dale was as pleased as a little boy with a brand-new bike that morning when, for the first time in many years, steam belched and pistons huffed on Case Tractor #30302. Family and friends were invited to share in the experience, a “chunka-chunkahiss-hiss” ride aboard a remarkable, early twentieth-century steam tractor. People young and old seem to have always been fascinated by restored and running steam tractors. In the early 1950s, my uncle entered #30302 in the tractor-pulling contest at the Union County Fair. She was a big hit. Neither gas- nor diesel-powered tractors were a match for the old steamer—not even close. After that, no steam tractors were allowed to enter. Dale and I, both born in 1942, share childhood memories of small farms in the Grande Ronde Valley of eastern Oregon. We worked on ranches during summer months and used those wages to partially fund our college educations. We operated tractors, crawler tractors and combines over the years. Neither of us enjoyed the annual chore of putting up hay, but we both cherish the experience of being farm kids in a beautiful valley at a time when life seemed so simple. How sweet it was, last June, to share a bit of that past with my wife, Joyce, and my 48-year-old son, John. The sound of that whistle, the odor of grease and heat from the firebox warmed my heart with memories of a special time when I climbed aboard a piece of history, experiencing the raw power of a steam tractor.
Experience e Beauty!
March 23-April 29, 2019 Woodenshoe.com
STUNNING AND LUXURIOUS BY DESIGN
Oregon’s Magazine
RANGE ROVER VELAR
TRIP PLANNER: REDMOND PG. 88
Goat Cheese Ravioli
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Astoria’s Meat Bingo
March | April 2019 THE DRINKS ISSUE
Beyond the legendary capabilities that come with 70 years of Land Rover heritage, the new Range Rover Velar design philosophy is revolutionary. Clean, elegant and distinctive.
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Combining avant-garde design with time honored engineering excellence, the new Range Rover Velar is the latest iteration of the Official Vehicle of the Northwest Experience. Visit Land Rover Portland to experience the all new Range Rover Velar. 1859magazine.com
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