1859 Oregon's Magazine | March/April 2022

TRIP PLANNER: HOOD RIVER + COLUMBIA GORGE PG. 94

DIY Meditation Spaces

Oregon Clam Recipes

Seaweed Revolution

14 SPRING STAYCATIONS SAVING SKYLINE FOREST

The

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Home + Design Issue LIVE

THINK

EXPLORE

OREGON

March | April

volume 73

You don’t have to go to the depths of the ocean to be a discoverer.

Or produce one of the world’s first maps of the ocean floor, like Marie Tharp, a pioneering geologist and cartographer whose important work helped bring to life the unknown ocean world.

You just have to chart your course to Discovery West. Nestled in Bend’s Westside, this community is alive with the spirit of discovery. Not to mention proximity to schools, parks, close-by trails and more.

Visit discoverywestbend.com to learn about the neighborhood, Marie herself – and how you could even find your new home on Tharp Avenue.

Or head on over to our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane and map out your future.

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seaside is for Dessert before dinner We know, we know. Dessert is supposed to come after supper. But here in Seaside you can do all the things in any order you want.

Arcade before breakfast? Sure. Ride a swan boat backwards? Go for it!

Feed the seals then fly a kite and have pancakes for dinner… it’s vacation!

@visitseasideOR

seasideOR.com

T C L T T 5

m

Indulge in the vacation at home lifestyle with the Westwind Estate, an 80 acre sanctuary just minutes from the City.

Immerse yourself in the mid-century home designed by architectural master, Pietro Belluschi: resplendent with glass walls, vaulted ceilings and exquisite natural materials. Lounge by the pool and lush, private oasis with sweeping views of the coastal range. The custom pool house designed by Michael McCulloch, FAIA, seamlessly complements the Belluschi design.

TERRY SPRAGUE, BROKER Chief Executive Officer, Broker LUXE | Forbes Global Properties TerrySprague.com Terry@LuxeOregon.com 503.459.3987

Neighbors fighting wildfires together.

Delivering food in times of need.

Standing up for each others' rights and hopes.

Our communal hardships have rekindled in us a great, unifying strength — kindness.

So elemental, yet so brave.

Awakened by an urgent need for connection and compassion.

Kindness has inspired us to listen.

To learn.

To lend a hand.

To take care of each other.

Now we have the opportunity to keep it lit.

Let's not let it smolder.

Let's fan the embers in our hearts.

Let's keep kindness at the forefront of our lives, and live as open examples of it.

Kindness inspires kindness.

And here, in our Oregon, that is what makes us — neighborly.

NeighbORly [ INSPIRING KINDNESS ACROSS OREGON ]

LEARN | CONNECT | DONATE | GET INSPIRED |

O R EG O N C F.O R G /N E I G H B O R LY

TravelOregon.com/Sparkloft Media

Wildflowers at Rowena Crest.

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Wild for Wildflowers SPRING IS THE perfect time to experience the vibrancy of the Columbia River Gorge. Find wildflowers, waterfalls and unparalleled views on these hiking trails. (pg. 94) MARCH | APRIL 2022

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 7

Explore the depths of the Oregon Caves National Monument on a guided tour.

FEATURES MARCH | APRIL 2022 • volume 73

60 Spring Break Staycations Get out of the house but stay local. Stargaze in the darkest spot of Central Oregon, go east to hike Owyhee Canyonlands, drop in on the latest food cart pod in Portland and plenty more. written by Vanessa Salvia

68 What’s Next for Skyline Forest?

A 33,000-acre privately owned forest in Central Oregon is back on the market. It’s time for the community to step up for a community forest. written by Kevin Max

74 Photographer and 1859 contributor Joni Kabana follows her passion for authentic experiences in Oregon with this focus on our Native American communities. photography by Joni Kabana introduction by Acosia Red Elk

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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Travel Southern Oregon

Tradition on Display

Workers’ comp that really works We’re Oregon’s leader in workers’ compensation insurance because we follow a simple formula: savings, service, and safety. We cover 53,000 Oregon businesses of all sizes, large and small, in every industry – 750,000 workers in all. We provide low premiums, great service, and an unmatched safety program. Put it all together, and that’s workers’ comp that really works.

saif.com

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DEPARTMENTS MARCH | APRIL 2022 • volume 73

LIVE 20 NOTEBOOK

Utopian visions at the High Desert Museum, a renovated cannery classic, organic nuts in hop salt and a three-day Oregon Coast hike.

26 FOOD + DRINK

Two Nike friends come together for craft Sambals. Soul-affirming spring pies.

Best places for oysters in Portland and the coast.

30 FARM TO TABLE

One of the new favorite pastimes of Oregonians is digging clams on the coast.

The recipes invoke clam linguini, manila clams with garlic confit and more.

36 HOME + DESIGN

Two kitchen remodels that tastefully court art and open space. A DIY guide to creating your own meditation space.

44 MIND + BODY Stephanie Inn

Veteran and Portland native Rico Roman talks how he came to sled hockey after a life-changing explosion in Iraq.

32

46 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Sculptor Brenna Kimbro turns brings horses to life with her work. Now she’s taking her sculpture in a new direction with a focus on her heritage.

THINK 50 STARTUP

This bacon-flavored Oregon seaweed is shaking up the food industry.

52 WHAT’S GOING UP

Three new public works of art around the state. One of which you will never see.

54 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

With a bee suit and a smoker, Emily Schmiedel goes to work in Jacobsen Salt’s Hive Program with sweet rewards.

56 MY WORKSPACE

Tanya Golden ditches the moniker housewife to become a farmer of the world’s most valuable crop—saffron.

90

License plates? Oregon Cultural Trust is one of a kind when it comes to nonprofits and their funding models.

Brenna Kimbro

Adrift Hospitality

58 GAME CHANGER

46

EXPLORE 84 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

16 17 102 104

Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time

The Great Spirit Mainto is the Native American namesake for what we now call the Bridge of the Gods, crossing the Columbia River.

86 ADVENTURE

Here are five great off-leash hikes or runs for you and your pup to get after this spring.

90 LODGING

The new Bowline Hotel in Astoria blends Scandinavian culture and design with Columbia River-mouth views in Astoria.

94 TRIP PLANNER

Have you ever been in Hood River when flowers begin to bloom? We think you’ll be persuaded after reading this.

100 NW DESTINATION

COVER

On the pristine Washington coast, Seabrook is a Pacific Northwest model of Florida’s Seaside, itself a model for The Truman Show.

photo by Page Bertelsen Photography (see Home + Design, pg. 36)

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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CONTRIBUTORS

JONATHAN SHIPLEY Writer Mind + Body

JEN SOTOLONGO Writer Adventure

VANESSA SALVIA Writer Spring Break Staycations

JONI KABANA Photographer Tradition on Display

“Soccer legend Pele once said, ‘The more difficult the victory, the greater the happiness in winning.’ Having been a sports fan all my life, it was a thrill to be able to interview Rico Roman, a Paralympic hockey champion from Portland. It also got me thinking. Hockey stars like Martin Brodeur and Nicklas Lidstrom are incredible. Roman is just as incredible, but without the use of his legs. Roman is one of the greats, indeed.” (pg. 44)

“I spend a lot of time looking at maps in search of ideal hiking spots where I can take my dog. I’ve lived in Oregon off and on for over 10 years and love exploring the diversity of the ecoregions throughout the state. I’m a long distance trail runner, and plan all of my excursions with epic dogfriendly trails and the outdoors in mind.” (pg. 86)

“I’ve lived in Oregon since I was 19 years old, and there are still so many places around the state that I have yet to visit. Writing this article about spots to enjoy a spring break staycation made me excited to get out there and explore all that I have yet to see. This summer I’ll definitely be driving along some backroads and byways to take it all in.” (pg. 60)

Jen Sotolongo is the founder of the adventure dog blog Long Haul Trekkers, a freelance writer and a book author. She is a PNW native and lives in Portland with her dog, Sitka.

Vanessa Salvia grew up in Florida, graduated from high school in Pennsylvania and has called Oregon home for 30 years. Her work has appeared in magazines and newspapers around the state and country.

“I didn’t know what to expect when I set up a pop-up studio at the Pendleton Round-Up to create portraits of Native American people dressed in their traditional clothing. All I knew was that I was in awe.

What surprised me most was that the handmade and heavily adorned dresses, vests and headwear have been passed down multiple generations, worn year after year in dances and gatherings. Heritage and ancestors live on through these ensembles, and it was astonishing to see such reverence for (and usage of) a piece of clothing.” (pg. 74)

Jonathan Shipley is originally from the Pacific Northwest and is now based in Atlanta, Georgia.

His sports writing was recently nominated for a Pushcart Prize.

Joni Kabana is a writer and photographer living in Fossil, Oregon, where she often gazes at night skies and listens to what the wilderness teaches her.

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MARCH | APRIL 2022

EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

Aaron Opsahl

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

HOMEGROWN CHEF

Thor Erickson

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST

Beau Eastes

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, Vanessa Salvia, Jonathan Shipley, James Sinks, Jen Sotolongo Page Bertelsen, Joni Kabana, Tambi Lane, Grant Tandy

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

14 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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FROM THE

EDITOR-AT-LARGE THIS ISSUE is going to tug you in opposing directions, but they will be the polar points of humanity—the need to nest indoors and the primal pull to the outdoors. Such is life.

On the cardinal direction of nesting, welcome to our annual Home & Design issue. This has aspirational and meditational qualities to it. It begins (pg. 36) with two kitchens—one a makeover and enlightenment in Bend and the other built around a legacy of art. In each of these, you will find some elements that you’ll want to make your own.

Both of these kitchens are comely to the eyes and easy on the soul. Yet nothing can be more relaxing than a meditation of one’s own. To that end, we bring you the meditation space of a couple for whom this space is a simple necessity and a DIY on how to create your own zen space on page 42.

Breathe. Breathe, but get your arse out of the house now and engage the neck down in the outdoors. A good place to indulge the senses is Hood River in spring as wildflowers are in various stages of color. Our Trip Planner take you there with an agenda that bridges the sensual and the physical.

16 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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We also take the notion of “staycations” a little farther afield than the complacency of the term implies. In this statewide ramble, Vanessa Salvia (pg. 60) takes us to stargaze in Central Oregon, way out east to hike the Owyhee Canyonlands, to the latest food cart pod in Portland, to the Oregon Coast for the northerly whale migration, to the Willamette Valley to sip in the state’s newest American Viticulture Area and plenty more. All said, it’s more of a craycation than a staycation.

Somewhere in between the nest pole and the outdoor pull is clamming on the Oregon Coast.

Clamming is something that everyone should do on the coast before returning to your home and trying one of our clam recipes. Turn to Farm to Table on page 30 and dig what we’re shoveling.

Ending on an inspiration note, Rico Roman is a Portland native who served our country as a soldier in Iraq. His humvee hit an IED and his injuries led to the loss of one of his legs. He had never played hockey, but eventually tried it.

In March, Roman will be playing in his second Paralympic Games and with a team seeking its fourth consecutive gold medal. Read his story on page 44.

1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon

HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/postcard photo by Cynthia Thiessen Smith Rock State Park

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MARCH | APRIL 2022

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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NOTEBOOK 20 FOOD + DRINK 26 FARM TO TABLE 30 HOME + DESIGN 36 MIND + BODY 44

pg. 34 Make Oregon clam linguine for a simple, satisfying and stunning meal.

Tambi Lane

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 46

The Best Built Homes are Renaissance Homes

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Tidbits + To-dos

Utopian Visions

Iron-Clad Classics

The pandemic prompted reflections on the community. New, original exhibit “Imagine a World” at the High Desert Museum in Bend examines how Americans have journeyed west with utopian visions, from back-to-the-land communes to the infamous Rajneeshpuram militarized spiritual cult of Eastern Oregon. The exhibit includes a Rolls Royce akin to the one for the group’s leader—as well as Native art of alternative worlds, long a part of Indigenous worldviews and oral traditions.

Portland’s culinary creativity includes making cast iron cookware. Finex’s artisans reinvent these hardworking tools with stone-tumble polishing for naturally nonstick pans that can go from stove, grill, or an open fire straight to the table. Witness the ethos in action at the factory store or better yet, join some of the city’s best chefs as they put the pans to work in the demonstration kitchen.

Check out new weekly events being launched this spring.

www.highdesertmuseum.org/imagine-a-world

www.finexusa.com r ou R y rk DA ma EN

CA

L

New Luxuries + Historic Authenticity Astoria’s Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa stretches over the Columbia River, and its renovation’s new amenities include room balconies with binoculars for a cormorant’s-eye view of a real working river and its seabirds.

Nightly receptions honor local Scandinavian heritage, with local wines, Josephson’s lox and rye bread, cheeses, fruit and freshly baked cookies. Explore the area via the hotel’s vintage chauffeured car or cruiser bikes.

River views extend to the spa’s mineral hot tub as well as your room’s clawfoot or jetted bath. www.cannerypierhotel.com

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ur R yo A k D ar m LEN

Andrea Johnson

CA

Blend Like a Vintner Ever dreamed of creating your own wine? Willamette Valley Vineyards now invites you to have a go at it. One of the most crucial and fascinating steps in winemaking, blending is typically done behind cellar doors—until now. The Pinot Noir Clonal Blending Experience lets you craft your own blend using a system invented just for the winery. Winery ambassadors guide you as you discover how seven pinot clones influence Oregon’s famous vintages. www.wvv.com/estate

CoastWalk Oregon Returns Spend three days hiking while helping conserve our coast.

CoastWalk Oregon, a benefit for the North Coast Land Conservancy, returns to the northernmost stretch of the Oregon Coast Trail Sept. 9 through 11. Registration has just opened for this journey exploring the state’s longest beach, the Fort to Sea Trail’s western end, and ascending the forested Tillamook Head in Ecola State Park. www.coastwalkoregon.org

Coffee, Beer and Chocolate Nuts Remember when beer and nuts were associated with anything but good health?

Not so with Bend-based Gather Nuts, founded by a nutrition consultant. Organic cashews soaked in a local brewery’s hopsalt blend pair perfectly with an IPA. As for the Northwest’s other obsession, coffee, there’s cold-brew soaked, slow-roasted cashews drizzled with single-origin chocolate.

Cashews pack immuneboosting zinc, the chocolate is high in antioxidants, iron and magnesium and, together, they’re delicious. www.gathernuts.com

MARCH | APRIL 2022

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Shireen Amini is back in the Oregon music scene—this time in Portland and with a new air under her wings.

Musician

Finally Breaking Free Shireen Amini celebrates her new album, and herself written by Ben Salmon

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BEFORE SHE MOVED to PortListen on Spotify land at the beginning of 2022, Shireen Amini was an active and vibrant part of Central Oregon’s music scene for fifteen years.

She wrote songs and released a solo album. She was invited to play with a bunch of local musicians, who dug her rhythmic sensibilities and the sound of her cajon, or box drum. She formed a band— ¡Chiringa!—that played high-powered Latin dance music and was one of the most popular acts in Bend for a while.

She had a blast, and she appreciated every opportunity. But something was missing. Looking back, Amini realizes that she never felt like she was able to express her true self in a full, honest and wholehearted way.

“It was such an absorption and a growth phase for me, all of that time. And I was doing a lot of healing work on myself, too,” Amini said. “And it’s interesting that when you’re in that process, it’s hard to feel committed to the songs that come out of you because, by the time they are ready to record, you’re already in another place.”

A trip to the Bay Area to study “music as medicine” changed everything, Amini said. She came away inspired to try to focus her music toward uplifting and healing and mobilizing for change, and to employ new styles of writing and singing to achieve her goals.

“Basically, the message that I wanted to get across was evolving, and the way that I wanted to reach people was, too,” she said. “At the same time, I was coming fully into my queerness, which has been a long journey, and I was coming out of a relationship.”

Amini pauses for a moment before completing the thought: “I look back and I realize that everything in my life at that time was about departing from things that were so comfortable and familiar in order to become more fully, authentically myself.”

Finally armed with a clear vision of what she wanted to say and how she wanted to say it, Amini started writing, and the songs started flowing. Over a period of a couple years, she wrote the songs that make up her new album Break Myself Free, a seven-track eruption of self-discovery, self-expression and self-actualization.

Amini mines a variety of styles on the album, from hip-hop and hard rock to pop, acoustic folk and beyond. Lyrically, it’s like listening to one of those hi-def nature videos of a butterfly emerging from its cocoon, spreading its wings and flying off into the sun. The song titles alone tell the tale: “Let Go For Now,” “Break Myself Free,” “We’re Not Walking Alone” and, finally, “Sweet Reward.”

For Amini, the reward is not just putting these songs out into the world. It’s about where they came from and the work she did to bring them to life.

“If I want to make music that’s going to really, truly empower people,” she said, “I have to speak from my own true pain and how I found that power in myself.”

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Bonnie Henderson

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ABOVE The view south from the high point on Neahkahnie Mountain, from Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail. AT RIGHT Bonnie Henderson was inspired by the Oregon Coast Trail and the adventures along the way.

Bibliophile

Hiking Heaven A step-by-step guide to a step-by-step coastal adventure gaining global renown interview by Cathy Carroll

JOURNEYING OREGON’S COAST is emerging as the next great long-distance hiking experience. Veteran journalist and Oregon Coast Trail authority Bonnie Henderson’s new Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail: 400 Miles from the Columbia River to California is a meticulously researched resource for taking it on—from trailheads to tide pools, headlands to bay crossings, campgrounds to inns.

Descriptions of thirty-four route legs include mileage, maps, itineraries, hazards and re-supply options. Henderson advises how to prepare and offers insight on fascinating history, trends, worthy side trips and the rewards of seizing the adventure. The Eugene-based author also created www.hikingtheoct. com, another go-to for those bound for the Oregon Coast Trail.

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What are some of your favorite personal moments from the trail?

So many! Walking onto certain remote beaches for the first time, like at Sisters Rocks on the south coast. Lying in my tent at Sunset Bay State Park and listening to the moan of buoys in Coos Bay, or hearing Swainson’s thrushes in the trees atop Tillamook Head.

Walking the Prom in Seaside headed to Tillamook Head, the sky looking like it was about to explode with rain, but that never happening, and having a lovely dry hike up and over the headland.

Getting boat rides across Tillamook Bay and the Umpqua River— that’s one of the most fun parts of the hike, but it takes some planning or luck. Honestly, even walking along the highway south of Humbug Mountain State Park (a long gap in the trail with no beach or trail alternative), early on a beautiful morning: even that was fun and memorable.

What prompted you to write this book?

I think the reason no one had written a comprehensive guide to hiking the entire trail, end to end, published by a major hiking guidebook publisher, is because there wasn’t much of a market for it; the trail has existed since the

1980s, but not many people have attempted to backpack it. There has been a huge increase of interest in this and other long-distance trails in the past decade, particularly the past several years, enough that it justified the investment of time and money required to put out such a guidebook. I hiked it a decade ago and didn’t meet another thru-hiker. When I hiked it in 2019, I met thruhikers from all over the country and even more from overseas. It’s now probably better known to the international longdistance hiking community than it is to most Oregonians!

What tips can you share for planning this adventure?

Rivers on the south half of the coast, which must be waded, typically do not reach their lowest level until about midJune. You literally cannot cross some of them. The north coast can be hiked earlier, but of course the weather is more settled in summer than in spring.

Study the route in advance to be prepared for bays that need to be walked around or crossed with a boat, long stretches with no potable water and no legal camping. People who want to hike inn to inn should make reservations early in some places.

food + drink

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Catherine Salvaggio, Bar Manager at Montelupo

Topolino The Topolino, which means little mouse in Italian, is a traditional spritz.

It serves as an homage to my grandparents from Campobasso and Sicily, for whom no meal was complete without amari.

• • • •

1 ounce averna 11/2 ounces cava Sparkling water Rosemary sprig and orange peel for garnish

Burn the sprig of rosemary with a lighter and set inside of a tumbler glass, letting the smoke build within the glass Once the smoke has filled the glass, remove the rosemary and fill the glass with ice.

Add the averna, then the cava.

Top with the sparkling water and garnish with the smoked rosemary sprig and the orange peel.

Buoy Beer Company’s fifth vintage of Love, Lost at Sea barleywine is aged in Freeland Spirits bourbon barrels.

Beerlandia

Keep Spring Beers Weird written by Beau Eastes HAVING LIVED in the Pacific Northwest for more than 20 years, I’ve come to love and appreciate the craft beer calendar so many of our amazing breweries operate on.

Summer brings out IPAs and all their goodness, fall is time for fresh hop experimentation, and winter is usually one glorious high ABV haze.

But the spring, oh the spring is when things get wild and anything goes. It’s the seasonal equivalent of international waters or Malheur County.

Here’s what we’re drinking while we’re embracing the shoulder season behind March and April: ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING FROM HAIR OF THE DOG: In February, craft beer pioneer Alan Sprints announced he’s shutting down Hair of the Dog, the iconic eastside Portland brewery he founded in 1993. Your favorite barrel-aged beer most likely owes a debt of gratitude to Sprints, who popularized the Old World beer-making technique at a time when most U.S.-based craft brewers were just trying to get local beer drinkers to put down their Bud Light and try a pale ale. Sprints has said he’ll keep his taproom open until some time in the summer. We’ll be stocking up on any Hair of the Dog beers we can get before Sprints closes his doors.

VAN HENION’S HELLES LAGER: Former Boneyard brewers are taking a stab at a lager-focused operation right in the middle of Bend’s IPA empire? Sounds fantastic. The beer geekery is strong among the Van Henion team, with founders Mark Henion, Dana Henion and John Van Duzer—See what they did there with the name?—boasting more than 65 years of experience. Their Helles is already selling out all over Bend, both on draft and in cans. It’s a fantastic clean and crisp counterweight to the abundance of IPA that now dominates tap handles across the state.

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GREAT NOTION AND MCMENAMINS RECIPE SWAP: A brilliant new take on the collaboration movement, Great Notion and McMemanins traded recipes and put their own spin on a classic beer from the other brewery. Great Notion took McMemanin’s iconic Ruby Ale and amped up the raspberries while adding notes of vanilla and lime for a new beer called Ruby Jammin. McMenamins, in turn, came out with Cold as Ripe, a cold-fermented version of Great Notion’s Ripe IPA. Cans are tough to come by at this point, but every McMenamins in Oregon and Washington will be serving both beers on tap while supplies last.

BUOY BARLEYWINE: Astoria’s Buoy Beer Company makes some of the best lagers in the state, so when they swing in the opposite direction and put out a barleywine, it gets our attention. Love, Lost at Sea— this is the fifth version in as many years produced by Buoy—ages in Freeland Spirits bourbon barrels for 10 months before being deemed ready for consumption. Bottles are available around the state, but if you can, swing by Buoy’s Astoria taproom and order a flight of vintages from years past and see if you can taste the subtle changes in how the barleywine ages over the years.

ECLIPTIC AND WAYFINDER COLLABORATION: Alright, we’re a sucker for a classic collaboration when it involves two of our favorite breweries. These two Portland beer houses first joined forces last year to release their Ecliptic + Wayfinder Cold IPA, and it proved popular enough that the beer is part of Ecliptic’s recent launch into Idaho. Do you really need another IPA in your life, you ask? Yes, yes you do.

Cold IPAs taste great—there’s a crispness there that’s reminiscent of a lager—AND the new style infuriated a portion of the craft beer world that takes itself too serious when Wayfinder introduced the new style and lexicon in 2018. That’s a win win in our book.

HERE’S TO WHATEVER OPENS YOUR DOOR Timberline Vodka is created by and for the “Outer Class” in a little part of the world called Hood River where there’s a lot more outside than inside. We distill our enthusiasm with Pacific Northwest apples, grain, and glacier-fed spring water from Mt. Hood. Outwards!

D O U B L E G O L D W I N N E R 2021 San Francisco World Spirits Competition

A proud partner of The Freshwater Trust, a nonprofit with a mission to preserve and restore freshwater ecosystems, including rivers, streams and creeks across the West. Distilled and bottled by Hood River Distillers, Inc., Hood River, Oregon. © 2021 Timberline ® Vodka, 40% Alc/Vol, Gluten Free. www.timberlinevodkas.com. Stay in Control ®.

CRAVINGS:

SOUL-SATISFYING SAVORY PIES CRESWELL BAKERY

Gastronomy

ABOVE Sibeiho’s Holly Ong and Pat Lau. AT RIGHT Sambals can add umami and heat to sauces and marinades.

Sibeiho: Spice of Life written by Kerry Newberry A FEW YEARS AGO, Holly Ong and Pat Lau cooked up one of their favorite childhood dishes: Singapore Chili Crab. But instead of traditional mud crabs for the signature seafood dish, they used freshly caught Oregon Dungeness crabs from Kelly’s Brighton Marina. “We are always looking to add flavors that remind us of our home using local ingredients,” said Ong. The sweetness of the crab played off their homemade spicy, tangy umami sauce in a way that delighted them both. “We thought maybe other people will want to try this too,” said Ong. In 2019, the longtime friends who met while working for Nike Singapore, began hosting private supper clubs. “It was a way to share family dishes from Singapore that we missed the most,” said Ong. Enter Covid in 2020, and the entrepreneurs shifted their focus from pop-up dinners to launching a food startup, beginning with three distinct Sambal chili sauces, the star ingredient at their supper clubs. “We also thought, ‘how can we demystify our food while creating a healthy product that we eat every day,’” recalled Ong. Sambals were the answer.

Essentially a chili paste made from red or green chilis ground together with other ingredients—from garlic and shallots to a variety of spices and herbs—Sambals can transform dishes, adding umami and heat to sauces and marinades. Endlessly versatile, Sambals can be used as a pesto or salsa, drizzling it over grilled fish or tofu to punch up flavors, Ong noted. “It makes a great dipping sauce for fried foods and vegetables, too,” she said.

In November 2020, Ong and Lau opened a retail store and kitchen studio on NW 23rd, along with an online shop. In addition to selling their small-batch Sambals, they curate a selection of cookbooks, kitchen tools and specialty foods from fellow women makers. Seasonal tingkats, home-cooked meals and snacks (from pillowy dumplings and curry puffs to kaya coconut jams), are available for pre-order by email subscription and quickly sell out.

As much as possible, Ong and Lau source local ingredients and have forged connections with BIPOC farmers through nonprofits such as Growing Gardens and Outgrowing Hunger. For them, food is more than sustenance. “As a business, we look for opportunities to flex our dollars in a way that can help others,” said Lau. “We try to do good through our food wherever we can.”

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182 S. 2ND ST. CRESWELL www.creswellbakery.com

PENNINGTON FARMS Those in the know will drive far out of their way to this barn-turned-bakery in the Applegate Valley for the very best berry pies in the state. (The 90-acre family farm has specialized in berries since 1994). But what makes the road trip ultimately worthwhile is the first bite into a freshly baked spinach, mushroom and Swiss cheese hand pie, the flaky buttery crust still warm and completely comforting.

11341 WILLIAMS HIGHWAY GRANTS PASS www.pennington.farm

PACIFIC PIE CO. For an impromptu weeknight pie party, this Portland staple is your spot. The only challenge is what to order. There are the tried-and-true classic pot pies like chicken and roast lamb. Or the earthy beef and mushroom and hearty steak and cheese. Pulled pork pie? Yep, that’s an option, too. Don’t overlook the savory vegetarian pasties (aka hand pies) ranging from the popular spinach feta option to a soothing sweet potato peanut curry.

1520 SE 7TH AVE. PORTLAND www.pacificpie.com

740 NW 23RD AVE. PORTLAND www.sibeiho.com

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Since 2008, Heidi Tunnell has been turning out artisan breads and pastries at her country bakery located eight miles south of Eugene. But the undeniable standouts on her menu are the savory handheld pies with perfectly flaky crust that you’ll crave again and again. Opt for the earthy roasted vegetable medley layered with carrots, potatoes, kale and cheese or the popular hot meat pie made with ground beef (organic and grass-fed from her family’s nearby farm), potatoes and Tillamook cheddar.

MARCH | APRIL 2022

food + drink

BEST PLACES FOR

OYSTERS At this family-run oyster farm and restaurant the oyster chowder with hints of thyme feels especially restorative on a misty coastal day. Other warming snacks to enjoy with the blustery view include the BBQ Silverpoint oysters and oyster tacos. Picnic tables overlook the oyster beds where clusters of Pacifics and Kumamotos grow beneath the tides.

Paul Pascal

CLAUSEN OYSTERS

Wild Thing PDX serves up veganforward, plant-inspired bowls.

66234 NORTH BAY ROAD NORTH BEND www.clausenoysters.com/ restaurant

Dining

EAT: AN OYSTER BAR

written by Kerry Newberry

Oysters sourced fresh from Pacific Northwest waters— whether served on the half shell or baked and topped with an earthy mushroom bechamel sauce—soak in this relaxed seafood joint on North Williams.

Other dressed-up versions of the bivalve include a play on the classic Rockefeller and oysters baked with layers of butter, garlic and parmesan.

Arrive early to snag a seat on the patio that overlooks pristine Netarts Bay and promptly order one of the prettiest platters on the coast. Their signature dish, oysters rockoyaki, is a riff on the classic Rockefeller—wood-oven roasted oysters topped with pork belly, greens and a garlic motoyaki sauce served atop a bed of beach rocks in a cast-iron pan.

LIKE SO MANY other diners with good intentions, you pledged to eat more vegetables this year.

That’s easier to do with the recent addition of Wild Thing PDX to Portland’s Alberta Arts District. The first thing you need to know about this vegan-forward, plant-inspired bowl restaurant is that chef Sam Smith of Sweedeedee (and formerly Tusk) designed the core menu.

“He’s such a wizard with vegetables,” said Kelsey Glasser, owner of wine bar Arden and the developer behind Wild Thing PDX. “Chefs can do amazing things with vegetables, but Sam really gives them the star treatment,” she added. Another talent currently leading the kitchen is Dominique Rodriguez, who worked at vegan hot spot Tiny Moreso and cofounded the vegetarian pop-up, Raiz.

The signature bowls pop with satisfying flavors from The Wild One that layers ginger beets, urfa chili sweet potato, lemony brussel sprouts, crispy sumac cabbage and sesame broccoli on a bed of mixed greens to The Vernon also packed with bright flavor and texture from cumin carrots, and turmeric pickled vegetables to crispy garlic and smoky paprika cauliflower.

There’s the option to get creative and build your own bowl, starting with greens, rice, or quinoa, and then dressing it up from a selection of seasoned and roasted vegetables, tangy fermented produce, savory house-made sauces, and proteins such as tempeh and Ota Tofu.

In addition to a short list of natural wine producers from the Northwest (including Johan, Maloof, Ovum, The Marigny), Wild Thing has its own label of canned wines. Glasser partnered with Ryan Kelly at Dominio IV in Carlton to develop two refreshing blends with vegetable pairings in mind, the Dry White Wine and Pinot Lite. Another beverage collaboration with Never Coffee led to a delicious hazelnut-butter cold brew drink.

Joining the wave of high-concept vegetable-centric restaurants to open in Portland recently, Glasser said, “Over the last couple of years, there’s been a big world shift in terms of focusing on a plant-based diet and noticing the impact it has on our planet and on our body. Eating more vegetables is simply good for you and it supports local farmers.”

2065 NW BOAT BASIN ROAD NETARTS www.theschooner.net

1477 NE ALBERTA PORTLAND www.wildthingpdx.com

3808 N. WILLIAMS AVE. PORTLAND www.eatoysterbar.com

SCHOONER RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

Wild Thing PDX

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farm to table A variety of clams can be found on the Oregon Coast, including razor clams and bay clam varieties such as butter, littleneck, cockles and gaper clams.

Oregon Coast Visitors Association

Farm to Table

Clams are for Digging Just below the surface, the Oregon Coast is teeming with various clam types written by Julie Lee

DON’T MIND getting a little sandy, muddy and wet? Clamming might be for you! Anyone can dig for clams, and little equipment is needed: a clam shovel, a clam gun, a bucket and some patience.

A shellfish license is required as well.

The best clamming on the Oregon Coast is done during low tides, and it’s recommended to check with Oregon Health Authority’s website to ensure clam harvesting is open; they follow strict guidelines and constantly survey for potential biotoxins.

Razor clams are a foodie’s delight and prized by clam diggers for their size and sweet-tasting meat. Clatsop County is bountiful with this seafood delicacy, with 95 percent of all razor clams deriving from a tight eighteen-mile stretch of beach.

Bay clams, a broad grouping that encompasses everything that isn’t a razor clam, includes varieties such as butter, littleneck, cockles and gaper clams. Unlike razors, which are limited for clamming from October to mid-July to protect young clams in the summer months, bay clams are widely available and harvested throughout the summer.

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Each variety of bay clams are unique: butter clams are commonly found in large estuarine systems such as Coos, Tillamook and Yaquina; cockles rest a little closer to sand’s surface and move horizontally, even jumping a foot or two at a time using their highly-developed foot; littlenecks are found in more rocky or gravelly areas; gaper clams are Oregon’s most common, well known to go into chowders the Oregon Coast is famous for.

An easier species to dig for, hovering just about six inches deep, are purple varnish clams and softshell clams, with limits about three times that of bay clams. Softshell clams are found in nearly all of Oregon’s estuaries and were originally native to the East Coast.

At the helm of the kitchen at Stephanie Inn, a luxury Cannon Beach hotel with a loyal following, executive chef Aaron Bedard steers the daily menu based on whatever can be fresh caught, harvested, foraged or dug for. A favorite is clams. On his days off, he digs for clams himself.

“We definitely roll with the seasons,” he said. “We source as close to home as possible for the restaurant. If it’s root vegetable

ABOVE Chef Aaron Bedard searches for razor clams with his son on the Oregon Coast.

AT LEFT Fresh razor clams harvested by Bedard.

Aaron Bedard

season, that’s what we do. We feature what’s in our backyard at that point in time and with that comes some inspirational challenges, like what all can I do with turnips and kale?”

Clams are always in Bedard’s backyard. Bedard lives between Del Rey Beach and Sunset Beach, a razor clam entry point and enjoys taking his six-year-old son, Jacob, digging for clams. “I like to teach my son how to harvest right where we live,” said Bedard.

“We’ll go crabbing on Netart Bay, digging for clams in Gearhart, and generally spend a lot of time outdoors, playing in the sand and mud rather than on the computer and video games.”

All species of clams have different limits, and razor clams have a 15-per-person cap. “I’m careful with what we take, making sure what we take gets used,” he said. “There is no need to take more than needed–save it for the future.”

Razor clam season was shut down last year for nearly sixteen months after tests continually came back detecting high levels of domoic acid, one of the many uncontrollable factors that Mother Nature can deliver. Bedard is grateful to have them available again, working them into the nightly menu whenever possible. He procures clams from smaller purveyors such as Ocean Beauty, which buys and sells direct from the docks, helping manage food safety protocols and ensuring inspections. He loves working with razor clams at the restaurant because they are indigenous and not farmed.

Bedard has been with the Stephanie Inn Dining Room for sixteen years, coming from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Portland. He started as sous chef under first John Newman and then Crystal Corbin, who both went on to open other restaurants at Cannon Beach.

His path to being a chef was unplanned. He grew up the son of a Kentucky Fried Chicken franchise owner and helped in the restaurant, cooking from the time he was 14. When he graduated from high school, he wanted nothing to do with the industry and spent time in Texas before landing back in La Grande at Benchwarmer’s Pub & Grill, where he started doing scratch cookery and realized a philanthropic side of the restaurant industry, like sponsoring golf tournaments for the local high school.

At Stephanie Inn Dining Room, Bedard enjoys being part of people’s lives and special moments. The open kitchen format and boutique dining room setting allows for personal conversations with patrons, which Bedard relishes. “We get to talk to our customers every day and be part of their celebrations.”

Aaron Bedard

farm to table

What’s for dinner at the Bedard house? “We’re just regular people when it comes to food at home,” he said. “Dinner time is important to us. We cook every night together. Tonight we’ll have pan seared razor clams with fresh herbs and a rice pilaf.”

Try out some of chef Bedard’s delicious recipes: Razor clam beignets with a roasted red pepper romesco sauce and razor clam ceviche.

From Southpark Seafood in Portland comes a fairly simple yet delicious recipe: Manila clams with garlic confit.

Or for some Italian adventure, try linguine vongole with white sauce from the new Amore Restaurant at Spirit Mountain Casino in Grand Ronde.

“I like to teach my son how to harvest right where we live.

We’ll go crabbing on Netart Bay, digging for clams in Gearhart, and generally spend a lot of time outdoors, playing in the sand and mud rather than on the computer and video games.”

— Aaron Bedard, Stephanie Inn executive chef

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farm to table

Oregon Recipes

Cooking Up Clams

Razor Clam Beignets

Stephanie Inn Dining Room / CANNON BEACH Aaron Bedard SERVES 4 FOR RAZOR CLAM BEIGNETS • ⅔ cup all-purpose flour • 1 teaspoon baking powder • ¼ teaspoon salt • ⅛ teaspoon pepper • 6 ounces razor clams, minced • 1 each egg • 3 tablespoons milk • ⅓ cup onion, minced FOR ROASTED RED PEPPER ROMESCO SAUCE • 3 each red bell pepper, fire roasted • 3 each yellow bell pepper, fire roasted • 3 cloves garlic, sliced • 1 tablespoon smoked paprika • 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar • 1 tablespoon kosher salt • ¼ cup toasted almonds • 1 cup extra virgin olive oil FOR RAZOR CLAM BEIGNETS In a bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt and pepper; set aside. In a small bowl, beat the egg, milk and reserved clam juice; stir into dry ingredients just until moistened. Add the clams and onion.

In an electric skillet or deep-fat fryer, heat oil to 375 degrees. Drop batter by tablespoonfuls into oil. Fry for 2-3 minutes or until golden brown, turning occasionally. Drain on paper towels. Serve fritters with Roasted Red Pepper Romesco sauce and lemon wedges if desired.

FOR ROASTED RED PEPPER ROMESCO SAUCE Place a rack over open flames on the stove top and place the pepper directly over the flames.

Roll pepper until all sides are charred and black, place the hot peppers in a zip lock bag and seal the top so peppers can steam. Once the peppers have cooled, remove them from the bag and scrape all of the charred skin with the back of a knife. Cut open the roasted peppers and remove all the seeds and core.

Place the roasted peppers and almonds in a food processor and pulse it a few times to chop.

Add the garlic, sherry vinegar, smoked paprika and salt. While the food processor is running slowly, add the extra virgin olive oil.

Stephanie Inn’s razor clam beignets.

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farm to table

Manila Clams with Garlic Confit Southpark Seafood / PORTLAND Chris Robertson SERVES 1-2 FOR GARLIC CONFIT • 1 head of garlic, peeled • 2 cups canola oil FOR THE CLAMS • 2 pounds Manila clams, rinsed of any dirt, sand and rocks • ¼ cup butter • ½ cup dry white wine • 2 tablespoons of garlic confit purée • 1½ teaspoons chili flakes • ¼ cup parsley leaves Razor clam ceviche from Stephanie Inn.

Razor Clam Ceviche

Stephanie Inn Dining Room / CANNON BEACH Aaron Bedard SERVES 4 • 1¼ cups fresh razor clams, chopped fine • 1 each lime, juiced • 1 each jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped • 1 each Roma tomato, seeded and finely chopped • 3 tablespoons shallot, minced

• • • •

1 teaspoon Durant Estate Olive Oil ½ teaspoon sugar 2½ tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped To taste salt & pepper

In a medium sized mixing bowl combine all ingredients and chill for at least 30 minutes.

Serve chilled with tortilla chips or crackers

Linguine Vongole with White Sauce

FOR GARLIC CONFIT In a small saucepan, (look up) combine garlic cloves and oil. If the garlic is not covered by the oil, then add more oil.

Over a low flame, bring the oil to barely a simmer. Cook on low heat until the garlic is very tender. Strain the garlic, reserving the oil. In either a food processor or blender, purée the garlic with enough of the reserved oil to make a smooth purée.

FOR THE CLAMS In a large pot with a lid, combine clams, butter, white wine, garlic confit purée and chili flakes. Cover with a lid and cook on high heat until all the clams have opened, about 4 minutes. Discard any clams that have not opened. Garnish with parsley leaves.

AMORE / Grand Ronde Sean Huey SERVES 2

• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil • 1 tablespoon butter • 1 garlic clove, crushed and rough chopped • Half a medium shallot, finely chopped • 1 pound littleneck clams or Manila clams • ½ cup Oregon Chardonnay • ½ lemon, juiced • 2 tablespoons heavy cream (optional) • 2 tablespoons flat leaf parsley, chopped • 8 ounces linguine • Salt and pepper to taste

Add extra virgin olive oil, butter, garlic and shallot to pan on low heat and bring heat to medium. Sautée for one minute.

Add the littleneck or Manila clams and Oregon Chardonnay to the pan and turn the heat to high, letting it come to a rolling boil. Continue to cook until all clams have opened up.

Cook pasta in heavily salted, boiling water. Ensure there is enough water for the pasta to move freely in the boil, which will help hold a hotter temperature.

Add cooked pasta, the lemon, heavy cream (optional), chopped flat leaf parsley and salt and pepper to taste to the clams. Toss one last time and enjoy!

Southpark Seafood’s manila clams with garlic confit. (photo: John Valls)

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farm to table

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farm to table

Oregon clam linguine is simple to make, gourmet in its presentation and delicious to the taste.

Homegrown Chef

Keep Clam and Carry On written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane

THE BRIGHTNESS AND HUM of the fluorescent lights inside Bi-Mart was an awkwardly refreshing break from the dark and rainy weather of Lincoln City.

I stopped in to pick up a shellfish license and a “clam shovel” (called a trenching shovel anywhere else in the world). One of the cashiers pointed me in the right direction. Under his red Bi-Mart vest, he wore a t-shirt that said “I Dig Clams” across the front. I knew I was in the right place.

The next morning at low tide, shovel and bucket in hand and boots on feet, I set out to Siletz Bay. After asking a few fellow clammers where to go, I ended up north of Schooner Creek where the purple varnish clams (named for the hue inside the shell) were said to be plentiful. I searched the wet sand for the telltale signs of clams: “dimples, doughnuts and keyholes” are what the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife call the breathing holes that clams create beneath the sand.

I found some dimples and began to dig. About 10 inches below the surface, my shovel made a clanking sound. I’d hit a clam. I dug it out with my hands— it was the purple varnish that I’d been looking for. I dug on, my mind flooded with memories of my dad’s favorite dish—clam linguine—until I hit my twenty-clam limit.

Upon returning home, I purged the clams, repeatedly rinsing them with salted water to flush them of sand, which is not delicious at all.

That evening I had just enough clams for my dinner, but I felt as if I was with my dad. Want to make this dish for a group of friends? Take them clamming with you, and you’ll have plenty for a party. Here’s my recipe.

Oregon Clam Linguine SERVES 4 • ¼ cup Kosher salt • 3 pounds fresh Oregon clams, such as purple varnish, butter or littleneck • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed • 3 medium cloves garlic, sliced very thin • ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes • 1/2 cup dry white wine • 1 pound good-quality, dried linguine • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter • 1 tablespoon fresh Italian parsley, minced • ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiana Reggiano Purge the clams of sand. Fill a large bowl with a quart of cold water and stir in 5 tablespoons of Kosher salt, to make it salty like the sea. Add clams, and let stand for 30 minutes. Lift clams from water and discard water; if there is sand in the bottom of the bowl, rinse it out and repeat the process until clams no longer release sand into the water (usually two or three purging cycles). Discard any clams that are gaping open and refuse to close when prodded.

In a large sauté pan, combine oil with garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook over medium heat until garlic is very lightly golden, about 2 minutes. (Adjust heat as necessary to keep it gently sautéing.)

Add white wine and clams, cover, and increase heat to high. Let cook, checking every 30 seconds or so, transferring clams as they open to a large heatproof bowl, until all clams have opened— about 5 minutes. Remove sauté pan from heat.

Allow clams to cool slightly, then pull the clam meat from shells. You can save a few shell-on clams per serving as a garnish if you wish.

For the linguine, fill a large pot with water, lightly salted (salt the water less than usual because of the saltiness of the clams), and bring to a boil.

Cook the linguine until just shy of al dente (about 1 minute less than the recommended cooking time on the package). Reserve about ¼ cup of water used to cook the pasta. Transfer the pasta to sauté pan with white-wine sauce, add about 4 to 5 tablespoons of water used to cook the pasta— this will help the sauce coat the pasta better.

Add butter, and clam meat and the shell-on clams if using for garnish. Cook, stirring, until butter is melted and clams are heated through, about 1 minute. Add a few more tablespoons of pasta water a little at a time until the sauce has the desired creamy consistency.

Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper if needed. Plate the clam linguine in large bowls and top with freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

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home + design

Oversized pendants with an open-weave pattern complement a leathered amazon granite slab on the island in this Bend kitchen.

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home + design

Artistic Accents Two kitchen remodels stay true to their owners’ artsy backgrounds written by Melissa Dalton

Page Bertelsen Photography

Bend: For a stylist, a kitchen curated like a killer outfit FOR EVERY kitchen remodel, Sarah Westhusing takes as many cues as possible from the clients to shape the new design, from learning their favorite hotels, to whether they can abide counter clutter. When the interior designer began working with Beny and Leslee Rabuchin on their Bend home in 2021—he’s a mortgage broker and she’s a stylist—Westhusing immediately noticed Leslee’s artistic flare. “She always has the most fun and playful outfits and hats,” said Westhusing. But the couple’s home, a ranch built in 1984, “and not a cool 1950s ranch,” noted Westhusing, was not fulfilling Leslee’s innate sense of style.

Functionally, the kitchen layout needed some tweaks. A dropped ceiling and too many upper cabinets made it feel dark, and an L-shaped counter effectively cut off the flow into the adjacent living room, an odd effect for the open plan. To save on budget, Westhusing kept the sink and stove in the same place, as rerouting plumbing and gas lines adds expense, then streamlined the counter to create a generous island with seating on one side. The final step was to remove an awkward structural support that bisected the counter, add a sizable beam to take the load, and vault the ceiling for an airier feel.

The room’s new focal point is the custom cabinetry fabricated by local cabinetmaker Alfonso Martinez of Martinez Construction. For it, Westhusing specified white oak veneer with slatted fronts, each slat hand-glued into place. In this way, the cabinetry creates pleasing texture and defines the kitchen against the adjacent rooms. “They wanted to keep the house white and very light and bright, so it needed something else other than a bright color,” said Westhusing.

“The [cabinet] texture is a good happy medium.”

Additionally, the white oak keeps within the overall palette of natural materials, which includes the leathered amazon granite slab on the island, the handmade Clé tile covering the backsplash, and the cabinetry with an ebonized stain that lets the wood grain emerge. Westhusing hung three oversized pendants over the island, their open-weave pattern reminding her MARCH | APRIL 2022

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home + design

“of something you’d find in the ocean, or a piece of coral. Really porous and natural,” said Westhusing.

Now, the new kitchen comfortably accommodates all of the couple’s likes and dislikes. There’s a stealth pull-out counter to the left of the fridge for Beny’s coffee supplies and Vitamix. “He hated when everything cluttered the countertop,” said Westhusing, who also planned for two open shelves dedicated to Leslee’s creative rearranging. “It was important to have an area to just showcase her,” said Westhusing.

Custom cabinets and open shelves helped bring this kitchen out of the dark and into a new pleasant light.

Portland: A new kitchen displays cherished family art

Page Bertelsen Photography

When Aisha Harley drives around Portland, there’s a good chance she’ll pass by the artwork done by her late father, Jere Harley, an artist and musician who also worked as a commercial sign painter. Starting in the 1970s, Jere was commissioned by developer Joseph Weston to paint a series of roses across 21 area buildings, including downtown’s Tiffany Center, in a series commonly referred to as the Weston Rose Murals. “His artwork is everywhere, and so I feel like he’s always smiling upon us,” said Harley. “I’ll be driving down the freeway and be like, ‘Oh, there’s dad’s rose.’”

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“His artwork is everywhere, and so I feel like he’s always smiling upon us.

I’ll be driving down the freeway and be like, ‘Oh, there’s dad’s rose.’”

— Aisha Harley, homeowner, on artwork done by her late father, Jere Harley, an artist and musician who also worked as a commercial sign painter

SERVING YOUR GLASS NEEDS FOR 69 YEARS

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(503) 412-9765 elizabetHcHamberscellar.cOm

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Open Daily 12-5 pm HOurs & reservatiOns: silvanriDge.cOm

Photos: 22 Pages Photography

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Aisha Harley looked to update the kitchen space in the Southeast Portland bungalow where she grew up. The design team aimed to improve functionality and update the room’s aesthetic while preserving existing details, such as these stained-glass windows. Rift sawn white oak cabinetry wraps the room.

The Southeast Portland bungalow where Harley grew up, and now lives after buying the home, also proved a handy canvas for Jere. In the late ’70s, her parents remodeled the kitchen, removing walls and streamlining the layout, and Jere installed several original stained-glass windows. “The stained-glass project was sort-of a one and done for the house,” said Harley.

To update the space, she worked with interior designers Shannon Baird and Anna Carmel of Shannon Baird Design. The goal was to keep those cherished pieces in place while eking out more functionality and incorporating Harley’s preference for a Japanese modern aesthetic. Key to the new design, and in keeping with the existing artistry, was to eschew standard box cabinetry and approach the room as though “designing a piece of furniture,” said Carmel.

To that end, the design team specified rift sawn white oak cabinetry, made by craftsman Nic Walker, to wrap the room and fill in a niche by the chimney in the dining room. The floors were replaced with new oak, and the designers kept the wood 40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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paneling installed by Harley’s parents. Custom concrete by Cement Elegance covers the counters and backsplash. “The house has such lovely, soft, tonalities and textures. We did not want it to look brand new out of the box,” said Baird. “We wanted to use products that were all indicative of artists and craftspeople.”

Working around the existing elements, such as the windows and an exterior door, proved challenging, but being exacting with the cabinetry was the solution. The team integrated the refrigerator, stepped back a cabinet run so it allows an exterior door to swing open, and created display space for Harley’s wares, which are essential oils. Harley’s favorite bit? A customized drawer that fits more than 100 bottles. “There’s little slots that they all fit in, and they’re all alphabetized,” she said.

“Often when we begin to design a kitchen remodel, we want to make it look seamless, as if it’s always been there, yet modern and to today’s standards. This house, however, was unique,” said Carmel, and more about artfully layering the past and present together. “We decided to embrace many of the former details.”

www.GHID.design

home + design

DIY: Meditation Space IN 2006, Michael McCulloch completed a pool pavilion on the Portland property that the architect shares with partner, Maryellen Hockensmith. From the start, this wasn’t just any pool pavilion, as the site is an 80acre working lavender farm that hosts a 1980 house designed by famed Oregon architect Pietro Belluschi.

“We designed [the new pavilion] intentionally to be like a piece of the original building broken off and put out in the garden,” said McCulloch.

The resulting structure is multi-functional, with two rooms that can be closed from one another and a bathroom in the middle. The front “expansive” section of the pavilion captures the site’s far-reaching views, as well as the nearby pool, while the rear “introspective” room has three walls composed of sliding glass doors that frame the natural crawl of the surrounding land.

The entire building is constructed of Port Orford cedar, which was chosen “because it’s highly rot resistant, but also easy to work and shape,” said McCulloch. “It smells great, too.” Local woodworker Patrick O’Neill of Greenline Fine Woodworking was a natural fit for the project, having worked on three Belluschi homes, as well as the Watzek house. O’Neill constructed the pavilion using Japanese timber framing techniques. “There are no metal straps, or tons of nails,” said McCulloch of the construction. “It’s pretty much fitted together.”

Interior detailing was kept simple, with the simple bronze hardware made locally. All the better to put the focus on where it was intended: “Maryellen wanted a place where she could retreat and see and feel some aspects of the untouched woods nearby,” said McCulloch. “It can be opened up to let the wind flow through.”

“Maryellen wanted a place where she could retreat and see and feel some aspects of the untouched woods nearby.”

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This interior space in Michael McCulloch’s pavilion brings together an absence of adornment and peaceful views of the outdoors.

home + design

Our tips for designing a meditation space, inspired

by McCulloch’s pavilion: CREATE CALMING VIEWS Whether that’s a window to nature, a cluster of favorite plants, or the perfect paint color on the walls, choose views that will put you at ease.

FOSTER NATURAL LIGHT, OR NOT If natural light is preferred, set up the meditation space beside a window that gets good sun.

If not, install window coverings.

McCulloch designed the introspective room with large expanses of glass, but there’s also a ceiling track with a curtain that can be pulled into place.

CHOOSE COMFORTABLE MATERIALS McCulloch covered the pavilion floor in tatami mats, which are a traditional woven Japanese flooring material. Surround yourself with materials that will soothe the senses, such as floor pillows and blankets, but avoid any patterns or colors that might distract.

MAXIMIZE QUIET, MINIMIZE ADORNMENT Pick a spot that promotes quiet.

If needed, employ white noise tools, like a water fountain, to mask potentially intrusive sounds. Minimize visual clutter to encourage inner focus.

CHERRY-PICK TOOLS The caveat to the above suggestion about visual clutter is that you might want to bring in select items that aid concentration, such as candles, statues, or a Tibetan singing bowl.

OREGON-MADE KITCHEN GOODS Three items that improve the culinary quality of life

Benchmade has been making knives from its Oregon City location since 1996, specializing in durable blades for outdoorspeople and the military. More recently, the company has applied their craftsmanship—and signature sharpness—to a new kitchen cutlery set. It includes an 8” chef knife for a fine dice, a 6” utility knife that makes trimming a snap, and a 4” paring knife for peeling. The best part? Everything from the blade’s steel, to the color of the handle, is customizable. www.benchmade.com Founded by a Portland-based mother and daughter team, the Grate Plate is a handmade ceramic tool specially designed to save scrapes to your fingertips when laboring after a fine garlic paste, or a sprinkle of hard cheese. The plate comes in a rainbow of seventeen different colors, is coated in leadfree, food-safe glaze, and includes a silicone garlic peeler wooden-handled gathering brush. www.grateplate.com Cutting boards come in all shapes and sizes these days—if you want one that looks like a work of art, check out the checkered end grain designs from the Portland woodworking studio called A Joint Effort, using a medley of woods, from standards like walnut and cherry, to native species like madrone and myrtle. The artistry comes as no surprise, as when studio founder Josh Aguiar moved to the state in his 20s, he worked with wood sculptor Leroy Setziol. www.ajointeffortpdx.com

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Inspired on Ice Veteran Rico Roman found hockey reluctantly but found success quickly written by Jonathan Shipley THE EXPLOSION was so powerful it lifted the Humvee clean into the air. Portland-born Rico Roman was in the front passenger seat. When the vehicle landed, both his legs were badly injured. It was 2007 and Roman was on his third tour of duty in Iraq. “I just didn’t see the IED, and my Humvee ran over it.” A year after returning from Iraq, Roman decided to have his left leg amputated above the knee. His life would never be the same.

The feeling of pride was so powerful it lifted Rico Roman to new heights after becoming a member of the U.S. Paralympic hockey team. “Making the team was such a great joy … I get to wear the red, white, and blue USA jersey.” His life would never be the same. Roman is now one of the most decorated paralympic sled hockey players there are. He got the gold medal at the 2014 Sochi Paralympics. He’s medaled repeatedly at world championships and, as of this writing, is eager to take the ice for another run at the gold medal at the 2022 Paralympic Games in Beijing, China. “Winning the gold in Sochi,” he says of his proudest moment as an athlete, “and seeing the smiles on my childrens’ faces. Nothing tops that.”

And Roman didn’t care much at all about hockey until his injury. Hockey barely crossed his mind. Portland, Oregon isn’t exactly a hotbed for hockey stars. And, as a Mexican-American, Roman didn’t consider himself one in the slightest. Growing up in North Portland, just blocks from Unthank Park, he’d head down after school and on weekends to play basketball. He’d play a little football, some soccer from time to time, but basketball was where it was at. Gretzky, Roman was not.

After his return from the war, he was approached by a group called Operation Comfort. The organization works with veterans in physical rehab. They suggested he try riding a handycycle, a bike typically used by those without the use of their lower limbs. Soon after, they suggested Roman try sled hockey. “I said no many times.

Finally I gave in and tried it out.”

He’s glad he did. He’s been playing competitive hockey now for more than twelve years, and he’s eager to get another gold medal in Beijing. “We give everything we got,” he says. “There’s no difference as to the effort, speed, hard hits, and hard shots we get as opposed to any other athlete.” He’s proud. “We are committed to winning and showcasing our talents, and we deserve respect, and on-air time, just like any other sport. Watch us, and you’ll be hooked.”

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Rico Roman U.S. Paralympian, Hockey

USA Hockey

mind + body

Age: 40 Born: Portland, Oregon Residence: Portland, Oregon

WORKOUT “I typically use the SkiErg (Nordic Skiing Machine) or a rowing machine. I love changing up my routine, though. Maybe I’ll do some crossfit. Maybe I’ll play adaptive sports, such as wheelchair basketball. Sometimes I’ll swim. Chop wood.

You name it.”

NUTRITION “I’m not a picky eater.

I’ll eat a variety of meats, fish, poultry.

I like rice more than pasta. I’ll eat salads, soups, beans. My weakness is probably the Memphis Mafia Voodoo Donut.”

INSPIRATIONS “I feel there isn’t one person or thing that inspires me. I feel like every day there is something new. Some days, the guys that I served with fire me up to give all I got.

Some days, it’s my teammates keeping me accountable and ready for them when it’s time to play. Some days, I feel like it’s all the people who helped get me here and all the people who cheer me on to give it my best.”

Rico Roman heads to the Paralympic Games in Beijing hoping to bring back another gold for the U.S.

mind + body

“Winning the gold in Sochi, and seeing the smiles on my childrens’ faces.

Nothing tops that.”

— Rico Roman, member of the U.S. Paralympic hockey team

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Photos: Courtesy of Brenna Kimbro

artist in residence

Brenna Kimbro on her multigenerational ranch in Union. Her horse sculpture art has soared after letting go of the reigns.

Artistry in Union Brenna Kimbro forges sculpture, horses, East and West in her life and work written by Daniel O’Neil ONLY A BREEZEWAY separates Brenna Kimbro’s high-ceilinged studio from her horses’ neat stalls, large windows spanning the distance. In that space, influence and élan flow back and forth between art and animals. Rather than divide the two, Kimbro keeps her subject and medium in the same custombuilt Eastern Oregon barn.

Kimbro lives with her husband and son on their 12-acre ranch outside of Union. Eight horses also call the Kimbro Ranch home, 46 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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which is only a short trot to the house where Brenna grew up, part of a 4,000-acre cattle ranch her family has owned for generations. Ruts from the Oregon Trail carve a history of oxen and horses into the land. Kimbro will criss-cross these as she forages for pieces of fallen sagebrush and willow that she’ll later craft into elaborate sculptures, mostly of horses.

Kimbro’s story didn’t start here between the Blue and Wallowa mountains. She was born in 1979 to an American soldier and a South Korean mother, in Seoul. Her father soon returned home, and her mother fell ill, so the young Kimbro was taken in by an orphanage until her family, the Tylers, adopted her at 18 months and brought her to the ranch.

Immediately, Kimbro connected with horses there. “As an adopted kid, I related to animals deeply,” she said. Growing up, she learned from her father and from her grandpa, Lowell, a former trick rider, how to train and ride horses. From the time

Artwork by Brenna Kimbro.

she could hold the crayons, markers and homemade playdough her mother provided, she began transforming that passion into art. Eventually, she was digging through the recycling bin and combing the ranch for sculpture materials. “As I expanded as a person, my materials expanded, and I feel like that just keeps happening,” she said.

From preschool through high school, her teachers encouraged her to create. An art degree followed, which she finished at Eastern Oregon University. Kimbro learned to contour and to paint and draw realistically, but she didn’t appreciate having to follow prescribed methods. “It convinced me that I like to make things the way I do,” she said. “I don’t like to put a lot of planned, thoughtful organization into what I’m making. I like to feel what it wants to do, see the lines and put stuff together in that way.”

While in college, she progressed with sculpting. Her father would give her old irrigation pipes to melt and pour for class projects, and she scavenged the ranch and the Hermiston recycling center for materials. One professor at Eastern Oregon University, Tom Dimond, especially recognized and pushed Kimbro’s talent. As a graduation gift, in 2004, he introduced her to Valley Bronze foundry in Joseph. They liked her work and began casting her sculptures of horses and other animals. Overnight, Kimbro became a full-time sculptor and painter.

Others quickly took note. Malcolm Phinney, owner of Phinney Gallery in Joseph, has sold Kimbro’s art since her career began. “Brenna’s work has a presence, energy and uniqueness that you don’t come across often,” Malcolm said. “She’s got such an understanding of the anatomy of the horse and, even more so, of the spirit of the horse, which allows her to put more emotion into her work.”

As she sold more pieces, Kimbro could afford to build bigger sculptures, eventually creating life-size elk, horses and even a salmon-eating grizzly bear for an Idaho zoo. But early fortune came with its own price. Some people questioned her success, which made her question herself: Had she sold out? “Honesty is so important to my life,” she said. “I wanted to make sure I was creating good, honest work. I had to find out why I do what I do, where it comes from, and how I can share and let it go.”

Introspection led her to research traditional Korean horse culture, which resonated deeply. “It lit me up, gave me more understanding of myself, made me feel stronger,” she said. “It’s a way I can slowly start cracking into my past. It makes me feel very connected, and I like that. Some of the art feels so innate.”

Kimbro returned to her work with a renewed, defined purpose, guided by her ancestral past.

For the last four years, Kimbro has been invited to teach at the Triple Creek Ranch artist workshop in Montana. The ranch’s owner, Craig Barrett, has bought many of Brenna’s sculptures over the years. “We are known for our Western art collection, and she personifies that when she’s here,” Barrett said. “The elegant simplicity of what she does, turning wooden sculptures into bronze masterpieces, I love. And when you know her story, it makes her art even more attractive.”

Kimbro sculpts and paints as if riding a trusted horse—freely, intuitively, with loose reins. Lately, she has begun to apply this approach beyond her studio and stable, letting the influence of that breezeway, and her Korean roots, into her entirety. “I’m valuing letting it all unfold more organically in my personal life just like I am with my art,” she said. “And I’m seeing how comforting it is not to try and control things.”

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STARTUP 50 WHAT’S GOING UP 52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 54 MY WORKSPACE 56

pg. 52 New public art pieces pop up around Oregon.

Mario Gallucci

GAME CHANGER 58

Imagine a custom, European influenced, home on two and a half flat acres that feels like a vacation house in the countryside. A charming, quiet destination where everyone will feel welcome, with an opportunity to let your imagination roam and create another custom space to pursue your dreams. A charming oasis that feels hours away from the hustle and bustle of the city, but in reality, is just minutes to vibrant downtown Lake Oswego and West Linn’s Historic Willamette Main Street. This isn't a dream, it's a reality. Make it yours!

TERRY SPRAGUE, BROKER Chief Executive Officer, Broker LUXE | Forbes Global Properties TerrySprague.com Terry@LuxeOregon.com 503.459.3987

startup

We Need Seaweed Eating Oregon’s dulse can save the world written by Jonathan Shipley

Photos: Stephen Ward/Oregon State University

TRUE, YOU MIGHT not be interested in eating a clump of seaweed. When you’re hankering for a hefty meal, a red alga poking about in the tide might not be what you had in mind. It’s often called a weed, after all, and who wants to eat weeds? But there are particular strains of seaweed called dulse that you might want to consider. Patented in the labs of Oregon State University, under the guidance of professor Chris Langdon, who has specialized in aquaculture for decades, and promoted by Chuck Toombs, an entrepreneur who is part of OSU’s School of Business, dulse is something you should really get excited about.

Fresh dulse seaweed could be the new kale and a carbon mitagtor as well.

Fried, it tastes like bacon.

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startup

You’re not excited yet. It’s seaweed. But why can’t dulse be the new kale? It’s high in protein, provides natural iodine, has twice the potassium as a banana, has all the amino acids a body needs, and it’s chock full of antioxidants, B12 and more. Here’s the thing: It tastes like bacon when fried. Yes, bacon, and some of the world’s leading plant-based meat substitute companies are quite interested in the dulse being created in Oregon. So, too, is the World Bank, along with environmentalists. There is more to this seaweed.

You can grow more dulse in a smaller area than you can, say, soybeans. It’s also more environmentally friendly than soybeans in that you don’t need soil, pesticides or fertilizer. Dulse grows quickly in recirculating aquaculture tanks, which means that it can be a part of the solution to feeding our rapidly increasing global population.

There is more about dulse to tout. It eats carbon. It’s a negative carbon protein. That is to say, if you were to have a 20-square-mile seaweed farm in the middle of Oregon somewhere, the state would become a carbon neutral state just by all the carbon being sequestered by the dulse. “The more you eat of this stuff,” Toombs says, “the better the world is.” Langdon concurs. “It’s not only good for humans to eat, it’s good for the world.”

In Langdon’s labs at OSU’s Hatfield Marine Science Center, he has been focusing primarily on molluscan shellfish, marine fish larval nutrition and sea vegetables. He was working on creating a super-food for abalone, a delicacy in many parts of the world, particularly East and Southeast Asia. He started growing dulse as that super-food, and the abalone that fed on that dulse grew at rates that exceeded all known abalone at the time. He was onto something.

Dulse, palmaria palmata, is a seaweed that grows along the Pacific Coast and elsewhere. It has a burgundy-like color. Neither Langdon nor Toombs were the first to understand dulse’s possibilities as a food source. The earliest known record of dulse was on the island of Iona in Scotland. Christian monks were harvesting it for consumption some 1,400 years ago.

Toombs happened by Langdon’s lab at the college. A lightbulb went on over his head. Oregon Dulse was launched. Dulse grew quickly. It was high in protein. It didn’t take much room or resources to grow. It was also being sold, dried, at nearby specialty grocery stores for more than $90 per pound. “Why can’t this be the new kale?” he asked. It was Gwyneth Paltrow, Toombs notes, who was touting kale across media outlets.

“But kale tastes terrible!” Toombs said.

There are now two land-based dulse farms in Oregon, with a proposed third 30-acre farm coming into fruition. It may become the largest land-based seaweed farm in the world. Brandon Farm opened in 2018. A farm in Garibaldi opened in 2020.

Oregon Dulse caters to restaurants. Protein processing facilities are being made to cater to companies making plant-based substitutes for meat products. Perhaps soon the hefty burger you crave will be dulse based. Oregon Dulse is also looking at carbon markets. “If a company says they’ll be carbon neutral

FROM TOP Chris Langdon, shown near a vat of growing dulse, has been growing and studying dulse at Hatfield Marine Science Center in Newport for decades. Jason Ball, research chef at the Food Innovation Center in Portland, prepares a dish made with dulse.

within such-and-such a time, how can they accomplish that?”

A dulse farm could help,” Toombs said.

“There is a lot going for it,” Langdon said. “It doesn’t need fresh water. It removes carbon dioxide. It’s a rich protein source. It’s fast growing with high yields. It’s why I’m very enthusiastic about dulse being a great sustainable food source for us all.”

Toombs, Langdon and others are eager to see where these seaweeds lead. They’ve gotten help. They have won grants from the Oregon Department of Agriculture. Portland’s Food Innovation Center has conducted its own research done on the culinary side of dulse. T Katapult Ocean, the world’s largest ocean impact accelerator, is investing. All the better that it tastes like bacon.

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what’s going up?

Art Installations A trio of new public art pieces signal a new conversation around community and healing written by Kevin Max THREE NEW PUBLIC ART installations across Oregon bring intrigue, perspective, grandeur and debate to their communities.

LA GRANDE In a 25-paneled public display, artist Jason Hogge will intrigue and delight passersby of Cook Memorial Library in La Grande. In what will become four different murals, each apparent only when viewed from a certain perspective, Hogge’s penchant for optical illusions comes into focus.

LAKE OSWEGO A 25-foot-tall steel and glass sculpture blooms like spring flowers as the gateway to Lake Oswego in Highway 43 and Terwilliger. Portlandbased artist Ed Carpenter has created many works of public art for municipalities around the world.

Mario Gallucci

MEDFORD After approving more than $30,000 for a 20-foot-tall sculpture by artist Robert Barnum commemorating the Alameda Fire victims in September 2020, Medford City Council reversed course amid backlash from community members. The proposed sculpture featured human figures standing in front of flames.

The fire killed three people, and burned 600 homes and 100 commercial buildings.

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Portland artist Ed Carpenter created Lake Oswego’s new gateway piece, “Flourish.”

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OREGON’S LARGEST SELECTION OF PURE ESSENTIAL OILS

MountainRoseAromaBar.com

NOW OPEN AT THE 5TH STREET MARKET IN EUGENE

Maddy Nico

what i’m working on

sustainable food systems and the empowerment of individuals to make positive change to their surroundings.

What makes for a good day as the Hive Program’s lead beekeeper?

Sparking fascination in others is such a joy. I have had the unique pleasure of first-time swarm capture with many clients. I think the best days are when I witness the collective enthusiasm and awe of people totally new to bees. More than teaching classes on any topic specifically, I love to reveal to people the astounding order inside the hives and describe the lives of bees through hands-on experiences.

Emily Schmiedel is inspired by acts of altruism and sharing in the lives of bees at Jacobsen Salt’s Hive program.

The Fascinating Lives of Bees

Inside Jacobsen Salt’s Hive Program with Emily Schmiedel interview by Daniel O’Neil

WHEN EMILY SCHMIEDEL acquired her first bee suit and smoker, she had no idea how far her new interest could reach. Now, in her fourth year as lead beekeeper for the Jacobsen Salt Co. Hive Program, Emily teaches, advises and assists beekeepers from downtown Portland to the nearby wine country. Tending apiaries, it turns out, provides all sorts of sweet rewards.

Tell us about how you became a beekeeper.

I have always admired insects. In college, I went so far as to have a large ant farm in my dorm room. I became most interested in apiculture after learning in a biology class about honeybee biology and their social order.

After reading a few books, I began my beekeeping journey with just two hives. Years later, I took a few online and local classes, then enrolled in the Oregon Master Beekeeper Program.

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What makes the Hive Program significant for you?

The Jacobsen Hive Program is about more than keeping honeybees. I think of it as an educational and community outreach platform. We want to promote and uphold all pollinators, support biodiversity and create lasting relationships with individuals and businesses in our community. A focus of the program is demonstrating the connections between restoring biodiversity,

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Some of the program’s participants keep hives in the Portland metro area. What are the challenges of urban beekeeping?

I would say honeybees do quite well in urban environments. One reason is because urban settings tend to be very biodiverse. In general, loss of habitat is one of the largest challenges for pollinators. However, in the Portland metro area many residents keep yards lush with trees that bear successive blooms and plenty of nesting sites. The simplest way to support bees is by planting beneficial insect ground cover, which provides forage for bees.

How might the Hive Program inspire similar endeavors across the state and nation?

I hesitate to speak for all beekeepers, but from my experiences, we are communal folks. Maybe we have learned from the bee that acts of altruism and sharing are necessary for a good life. I hope the Jacobsen Hive Program inspires similar endeavors to share knowledge and new ideas, and for individuals to share what they are excited about! I am inspired everyday by the boundless curiosity and ingenuity of other beekeepers.

NEW EXHIBIT JAN 29–SEPT 25, 2022 HIGHDESERTMUSEUM.ORG

my workspace

Tanya Golden is keen on the virtues of stability. After assuming an “OldSchool Oregonian” housewife role (gardening, wild crafting, foraging), Golden found herself faced with a common question: How can I become more financially independent and take care of myself and my family?

Coming from a Grande Ronde and Eastern Cherokee Native American indigenous family, Golden turned to her multigeneration farming roots coupled with her twenty years experience working as an herbalist and had a thought: What about the world’s most expensive spice, saffron? And so it began.

Golden Girl A housewife’s transition to the land of saffron

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Tanya Golden

written by Joni Kabana

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my workspace

After securing funding from Native American Youth and Family Center (NAYA), Tanya chose to incorporate her family surname and traditional heritage lifestyle when naming her business Golden Tradition Saffron. True to her native beliefs, she readily accepts “signs” such as rainbows, eagles and synchronistic encounters to guide her daily processes. The delicacy and historical importance of saffron is in direct alignment with her spirituality, and she appreciates its many medicinal properties.

Dave Hupp

Tanya Golden

Saffron spice comes from the beautiful Crocus sativus flower harvested through an extremely laborintensive hand-picking process. Each pound of saffron spice requires 200,000 saffron stigmas from 70,000 crocus flowers. Picking usually is done by women around the world, and the spice has been traded for thousands of years.

Find Tanya Golden’s saffron in Finnriver Cider’s Saffron Solstice Cider.

Golden’s goal is to spearhead a self-sufficient community for indigenous and vulnerable women where they can exchange skills in the areas of community gardening, irrigation, entomology, water studies, soil health and foraging. Also, growing and tending saffron.

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game changer

Oregon Cultural Trust is Unique Among States The Trust bolsters local culture and arts in a fiscally creative way written by James Sinks

AT FAVELL MUSEUM in Klamath Falls, a new exhibit featuring renowned Klamath Modoc painter Ka’ila Farrell-Smith.

In Astoria, a new arrival plaza to welcome visitors to the Nordic Heritage Park.

And in Portland, more space at The Circus Project, allowing more people to train on trapezes and learn other acrobatic skills.

The common thread? The endeavors are among ninety statewide to share a record-setting $3.25 million in grant assistance this year from the Oregon Cultural Trust, the one-of-a-kind state entity that bolsters and promotes arts, heritage and historic preservation efforts, with money raised via a tax credit.

The Trust fosters financial stability for nonprofits, history buffs and artists—and is advancing a vision articulated by the late Ben Westlund, the former legislator and State Treasurer who was the chief sponsor of the 2001 authorizing bill.

“Oregon should be a national pace setter in support of its cultural assets for today and for the generations that will follow us,” he said that year, noting that Oregon’s level of public support for the arts ranked in the basement among states at the time.

Oregon is moving up the rankings, thanks to the steady growth of the Trust over its first twenty years, said executive director Brian Rogers. Annual donations have been growing by about 5 percent per year, he said.

Under the one-of-a-kind cultural tax credit, Oregonians give matching donations to the Trust and eligible nonprofits of their choice, and then get repaid via a tax credit equal to 100 percent of the share of the money given to the Trust (up to $500 for individuals and $2,500 for corporations). No other state offers the same sort of tax credit for cultural giving, he said.

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Under state law, 60 percent of the money goes to cultural nonprofits, county and tribal coalitions, and partners like the Oregon Historical Society and Oregon Arts Commission. Since the beginning, that support totals more than $36 million.

The other 40 percent is invested in a permanent endowment, which has grown to more than $30 million.

“I’d describe the role of the Cultural Trust as a vital incubator of culture, which allows arts organizations to take creative risks and amplify the voices of those who have been excluded from the cultural sphere for far too long,” said Ethan Gans-Morse of Anima Mundi Productions in Phoenix, Oregon, which has received four grant awards totaling $91,736.

In addition to the tax credit, the Trust sells a specialty license plate to finance marketing efforts.

Last year, its citizen board decided to update the colorful plate to help mark the Trust’s twentieth birthday. The new “Celebrate Oregon!” version, by a Eugene artist and now available, is splashed with 127 symbols of the state’s cultural diversity, from flowers to instruments. The image appears on car bumpers as well as in murals at airports in Portland, Eugene, Medford and Redmond.

“The Trust is a testament to Oregonians’ value of culture, and it reaches into every community across the state,” Rogers said.

“In our next twenty years, we will be able to provide more experiences and help make our communities stronger through culture, and that growth will hopefully continue to occur as more people learn about the Trust and how it works.”

The application cycle for 2022 grants runs through the spring and closes in May.

ABOVE: Athena Delene/Oregon Cultural Trust

Eugene arist Liza Burns works on the mural that now adorns the Oregon Cultural Trust’s specialty license plate.

Wallowa Lake in Eastern Oregon is a premier spot to unplug for an Oregon staycation. (photo: Joni Kabana/TravelOregon.com)

G N I R SP REAK B

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After months in the house, thanks to winter weather and the pandemic, you’re probably ready to explore further than the end of your own block. Whether you’re up for a road trip to another part of the state or you just want to explore something in your area that you may not have experienced yet, this list has you covered. You can stay local, have fun, and get outdoors to shake off winter and welcome the sunshine.

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Antiquum Farm is part of the new Lower Long Tom AVA in the Willamette Valley. (photo: Easton Richmond/Willamette Valley Wineries Association)

N R E T GON S A E ORE

AL R T CEN REGON O Stargaze at Sunriver Nature Center and Observatory The Sunriver Nature Center and Observatory is the largest publicly accessible observatory in the United States. You can also walk around eight-acres of pine forest, wetland and meadow habitats even if you don’t set foot in the observatory itself. Walk in anytime, no reservations needed, for daytime visits with access to the nature center (birds of prey, swans and honey bees), the botanic garden and nature trail. Reserve a nighttime visit for one hour in the observatory—peer through telescopes, get a guided constellation tour and oggle meteorite displays. www.snco.org

Wallowa Lake Tramway Choose a clear night to visit Pine Mountain Observatory near Bend. (photo: Grant Tandy)

… and Pine Mountain Observatory Pine Mountain Observatory, located atop a 6,300-foot mountain 34 miles southeast of Bend, generally opens to the public on Memorial Day weekend. Pick a clear, moonless night to visit, if you can, and bring a suggested donation of $5 per person.

The 24-inch telescope will normally be open until midnight. www.pmo.uoregon.edu

Take your inner child and your actual children out to see the stars at the Sunriver observatory. (photo: Steve Hienrichs/Visit Central Oregon)

Ask anyone, even if they have lived in the state for decades and there’s a good chance that they will never have visited either the Wallowa Mountains, the Steens or the Owyhees. Each of these places is remote, wild and worth the drive.

In the Wallowa Mountains, you can ride up a gondola 3,700 feet from Wallowa Lake Village to the peak of Mt. Howard. This area is known as “Oregon’s Alps,” thanks to gorgeous peaks that rise to nearly 10,000 feet in the Eagle Cap Wilderness.

Wallowa Lake State Park has a large day-use area alongside the lake, with a marina store offering all the supplies you need to make water part of your fun. The surrounding community of Joseph is the perfect base to explore this area. Joseph itself has elements of an alpine village, and there is an abundance of cultural sites and landmarks honoring the homeland of Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce Tribe. www.wallowalaketramway.com

The Wallowa Lake Tramway takes you up Mt. Howard, where the views are stunning on clear days. (photo: Sascha Rettig/TravelOregon.com)

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Drive a Scenic Byway through the Steens Allow four to seven hours to tackle the East Steens Tour Route, with plenty of time to stop and take in the amazing views in every direction. Drive to the Alvord Hot Springs, a privately owned hot springs experience with man-made pools on the edge of the Alvord Desert. Overnight guests can use the pool at any hour. This road takes you from Fields in the south to Burns in the north, passing through Crane, Oregon, where the population is so sparse that students are provided room and board at Crane Union High School. The road forms a loop when combined with the High Desert Discovery Scenic Byway (127 miles).

Once the snow clears a little later (often not until July), drive the 59-mile Steens Loop Tour Route that traverses a sagebrush desert to the nearly 10,000-foot peak of Steens Mountain. This loop includes the highest road in Oregon.

Alvord Hot Springs in southeastern Oregon embody a complete getaway. (photo: Joshua Meador/ TandemStock.com)

Visit the Owyhee Canyonlands If you want to really get remote, drive through the Owyhees (Oh-WHYHees). There are only three paved roads here—and no services, amenities, and unreliable cell coverage— but you’ll experience the darkest night skies you’ll likely ever see. The whole area is larger than Yellowstone National Park, and was part of the ancestral lands of the Northern Paiute, Bannock and Shoshone tribes.

There’s a 13,000-year history of people here, with the archeological

sites to match. Visit Birch Creek Historic Ranch, which reveals its Basque influence. If Owyhee sounds like you’re saying “Hawaii,” it’s not your imagination—Native Hawaiians explored this area during the winter of 1819–20 with Donald McKenzie’s expedition, who is the namesake of the Willamette Valley’s McKenzie River. The Hawaiians left the main party on a side exploration and disappeared, so Mackenzie named the river in their honor. www.wildowyhee.org

Owyhee Canyonlands are a hidden gem in Eastern Oregon that is well worth the effort. (photo: Dan Holz/TandemStock.com)

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GE R O A G ND I B M A COLU PORTL & Hinterland A new food cart pod, Hinterland, just opened in January in Portland, between Hawthorne and Division on SE 50th. It promised to offer cocktails, a large heated and covered outdoor seating, an indoor bar and lots of food carts. They delivered.

Enjoy a well-stocked bar, burgers, a vegan taqueria and lots more. www.hinterlandpdx.com

New Portland food cart pod Hinterland. (photo: Katie Acheff/Acheff Images)

Washington Park Washington Park is just two miles west of downtown Portland and is close to light rail transportation.

Whether you live in Portland or are just visiting, it’s easily accessible. You can spend multiple days here exploring everything within the park: the Portland Zoo, the Portland Japanese Garden, The Hoyt Arboretum (with 2,300 species of trees from around the world along 12 miles of trails), the World Forestry Center Discovery Museum and the Portland Children’s Museum. The roses in the Portland International Rose Test Garden won’t bloom until April, but it’s a beautiful spot anytime. If you’ve got young kids, take them to the Rose Garden Children’s Playground. www.portland.gov/parks/washingtonpark-international-rose-test-garden

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Find Portland’s Street Art If you’re walking or cycling, you’ll surely stumble across multiple pieces of street art, but there’s no need to leave your art encounters to chance. The Portland Street Art Alliance has developed maps of street art you can find there that also combine biking and walking maps. They also created a map of Portlandarea murals painted by Hispanic or Latinx artists. One standout example of a street painting is “Arte, Música y Amigos,” a 460-foot long, 26-foot wide painting that begins at the southern end of the Eastbank Esplanade path. The mural, painted on the street, was inspired by Frida Kahlo, and created by the Latin American artists of IdeAL PDX. www.pdxstreetart.org/finding-street-art ABOVE Portland’s International Rose Test Garden in Washington Park. AT LEFT Artwork by Irish street artist Fin DAC graces the side of a buiding in Portland. (photos, from top: Justin Katigbak/ Travel Portland, Justin Katigbak/Travel Portland)

ON T G E OR COAS Whale Watching Spring whale watching is a must-do activity for spring break in Oregon.

Spring is one of two peaks for whales swimming by as they migrate from the warm waters of Mexico where they have their babies back to their

cold feeding grounds in the Bering Sea. Visit Oregon State Parks’ whale watching website for information and locations of trained volunteers to help you spot these behemoths of the deep. www.stateparks.oregon.gov

ABOVE Catch the spring whale migration as these giant mammals head to the cooler waters near Alaska and feed along the Oregon Coast. (photo: Rowland K. Willis/Oregon Coast Visitors Association)

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TE T E L AM EY L I W A LL V Drink wine from Oregon’s newest viticultural region The American Viticultural Association granted approval on December 10, 2021, for Oregon’s newest appellation, the Lower Long Tom AVA. There are twelve wineries and twenty-four vineyards that share the distinctive Bellpine sedimentary soil type within the 15,000 acres west of the Lower Long Tom Watershed between Corvallis and Eugene. The Long Tom’s rolling hills keep air warmer than surrounding areas, which helps grapes mature at a more consistent rate. The Bellpine terroir

is the result of silt forming over sandstone, which forces grapes to grow deep roots. The Long Tom River, a tributary of the Willamette, is the anglicized name of what the Kalapuyans once called, Lumtumbuff. www.willamettewines.com

Cruise the Willamette River Take a lunch or dinner cruise on the Willamette River in Salem on the Willamette Queen, an 87-foot, 125-ton, twin paddlewheeler. Take off from Salem and enjoy an elegant dinner or lunch with views from the 82-seat dining room plus an outside observation deck. Feel like getting married? The captain can help with that. www.willamettequeen.net

When a new AVA is established in the Willamette Valley, use your sense of taste for travel. (photo: Dominick Barbero/Willamette Valley Wineries Association)

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N R E H ON T U SO REG O Oregon Caves National Monument Explore the depths of the Oregon Caves on a guided ninety-minute experience that takes you 220 feet beneath the surface. If you don’t want to pretzel yourself into the actual caves, which requires stooping to a 45 inch height at some points, there are six hiking trails with wonderful views on the monument grounds. Oregon has one national park (Crater Lake), but two national monuments—the John Day Fossil Beds is the other. www.nps.gov/orca

Rogue Creamery

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Southern Oregon has many pillars of a great staycation: the Oregon Caves National Monument, ziplines and the famed Rogue Creamery blue cheese. (photos, clockwise from top: Travel Southern Oregon, Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau, Travel Southern Oregon)

Guided tours are back at Rogue Creamery. Shop a wide variety of Rogue Creamery’s organic awardwinning cheeses, buy a grilled cheese sandwich (cooked with solar power!) to eat in the picnic area, or pack your own picnic with cheese (of course!), jams, nuts, crackers, honey, cold drinks and more from the store. Rogue Creamery’s Rogue River Blue Cheese was named World’s Best Cheese at the 2019 World Cheese Awards in Bergamo, Italy. If you’re a blue cheese or cheddar fan, don’t miss it. There’s also Lillie Belle Farms award-winning handmade chocolates (www.lilliebellefarms.com) right next door. www.roguecreamery.com

Crater Lake Ziplines Crater Lake Ziplines are the longest ziplines in Oregon on the only zipline in the country located on national forest land. Fly through the canopy 100 feet above ground, walk across two skybridges between trees, and rappel 40 feet from one tree platform to another. www.craterlakezipline.com/zipline

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WHAT’S NEXT FOR

Photo: James Parsons

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THE $127 MILLION QUESTION— COULD THIS FINALLY BE THE MOMENT SKYLINE FOREST BECOMES A CENTRAL OREGON COMMUNITY FOREST? written by Kevin Max

F

ROM NEARLY ANY high point in Bend, you can see the vast stand of pines that creates a deep green vista to the northwest, all the way to Sisters. Mountain bikers, gravel riders, hikers, snowshoers, hunters and fly-fishers find solitude here among the mule deer and elk habitat. Ponderosa pines tower over its creeks and springs weaving through the forest’s floor.

In its entirety, Skyline Forest is nearly 33,000 acres, or the equivalent of 50.5 square miles. For perspective, Bend, itself, is only 33 square miles.

What may come as a surprise to many of Skyline Forest’s users, this vast forest on Bend’s northwest side is not publicly owned. Rather it’s the private property of a Chinese investment firm, Shanda, whose portfolio includes mostly Chinese tech companies.

Here’s where the story gets interesting. The privately owned Skyline Forest is for sale, again.

Listed for $127 million by Polvi Real Estate, Skyline Forest is an expensively priced piece of land that local

nonprofits, municipalities and state agencies have been actively working to acquire over the past two decades and multiple owners.

“The ideal buyer for the property,” said Jake Polvi, real estate agent for the seller, “is an experienced steward of the land. The local conservation entities have great visions, but they lack the ability to implement. The owner’s goal is to sell the property in 2022, he added, and that the owner has a history of working with public entities and local stakeholders in Central Oregon.

While the ideal buyer may be an entity with experience in stewardship of land, the actual buyer could come from a less-than-ideal background such as another investment bank, a private buyer, timber companies, even destination resort developers if the land use zoning were to be changed.

Indeed Polvi’s website seems to target a different profile of buyer altogether than one centered on stewardship.

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recreational enthusiasts who seek a private retreat with stunning views and abundant wildlife.”

Now, as Bend’s population soars, as natural habitat is increasingly developed and in an emerging era when climate change is driving warmer global temperatures and increasing levels of wildfires in Oregon, the stakes for these 33,000 forested acres adjacent to Bend and Sisters are high.

“In the face of mounting pressures from regional growth, a changing climate, and the increasing risk wildfire poses to Oregon communities, we need to act with urgency to conserve this place,” said Ben Gordon, Central Oregon LandWatch executive director. “We can’t just keep crossing our fingers as the land is purchased and sold again, and hope a new buyer continues to protect the landscape. It’s time to find a way to permanently conserve Skyline Forest and avoid the whims of speculative developers looking to build more luxury housing.”

Central Oregon would greatly increase its recreation profile, mitigate its fire risk through healthy active forest management and preserve critical habitat for wildlife, which is steadily being chipped away at for housing.

“Something that makes living in Central Oregon incredible is the compact footprint of our cities and towns that keep nature and access to open, undeveloped places nearby,” said Gordon. “Skyline Forest is perhaps the largest privately held piece of the forest between the Cascade Mountains and the towns of Bend and Sisters. Seeing it become housing would be a terrible loss, while enhancing the community values of recreation, wildlife habitat and wildfire safety would be a terrific gain for our region.”

Oregon bill that Governor Kulongoski signed into law that allowed municipalities to issue bonds on behalf of nonprofits to acquire large-scale working forests. The Land Trust went right to work, renaming this property Skyline Forest and stating its intentions of buying that land for sustainable timber harvest, wildlife habitat, education and recreation.

In 2006, Fidelity National Financial Venture took ownership of the property from bankruptcy proceedings, though the Land Trust kept working with Fidelity, hoping to make an eventual conservation acquisition. Nearly a decade later, Fidelity turned its back on its local relations and sold the property along with 60,000 additional acres between Chiloquin and Chemult as a package to Whitefish Cascade Forest Resources (which later became Shanda) for a reported $63 million. Shanda is now asking $127 million for one-third of the acreage it paid less than half for seven years ago.

Notably, in 2010 and 2014, two fires burned a combined 13.000 acres, with more than 10,000 of those in Skyline Forest. Because Skyline is so close to the populations and homes in Bend and Sisters, forest management is paramount and a potential liability for any new owners of the forest.

W

HILE MANY Oregonians may be hearing about Skyline Forest by reading this story, it has quietly helped shape state land-use laws and been at the forefront of priorities for Deschutes Land Trust for decades. The Land Trust has played a leading role in the Skyline Forest saga over the past twenty years. Now, with Skyline Forest back on the market, the Land Trust is determined to bring more voices— and perhaps a county bind issue—to the table in hopes of raising greater community awareness of the opportunity.

A brief history of Skyline Forest begins in the late ’80s, when publicly traded timber giant Crown Pacific owned it along with hundreds of thousands of acres throughout the West. In June 2003, Crown Pacific filed for bankruptcy. The following year, Deschutes Land Trust began working with former Clinton Administration forestry advisor Tom Tuchmann, who founded US Forest Capital, a firm that invests in working forests.

In 2005, Tuchmann and Deschutes Land Trust testified in favor of the Community Forest Authority Act, an

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Sisters

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SkyLinE Forest DESCHUTES NATIONAL FOREST

Bend

Source: Central Oregon Landwatch

“SOMETHING THAT MAKES LIVING IN CENTRAL OREGON INCREDIBLE IS THE COMPACT FOOTPRINT OF OUR CITIES AND TOWNS THAT KEEP NATURE AND ACCESS TO OPEN, UNDEVELOPED PLACES NEARBY. SKYLINE FOREST IS PERHAPS THE LARGEST PRIVATELY HELD PIECE OF THE FOREST BETWEEN THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS AND THE TOWNS OF BEND AND SISTERS. SEEING IT BECOME HOUSING WOULD BE A TERRIBLE LOSS, WHILE ENHANCING THE COMMUNITY VALUES OF RECREATION, WILDLIFE HABITAT AND WILDFIRE SAFETY WOULD BE A TERRIFIC GAIN FOR OUR REGION.” — BEN GORDON, CENTRAL OREGON LANDWATCH EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

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The viewshed of Skyline Forest that Central Oregonians want to preserve for many reasons. (photo: James Parsons)

N

ONETHELESS, THE listing price poses new problems for a conservation acquisition that would rely in part on state and federal funding mechanisms. Often this class of funds can only be accessed when a property is not out of line with its appraisal value. Ultimately, with the $127 million price tag now attached to Skyline Forest, it would have to appraise for multiples higher than when it was bundled with 60,000 additional acres. Even if you discount the complete value of the other 60,000 acres, the implicit selling price of Skyline Forest is double that of its purchase price in 2015.

Ultimately, some portion of the funding will have to come from a local bond issue, such as the $195 million new public library bond passed in 2020.

“In conversations we’ve had with folks from the City and from the County, it does seem there may be an interest there,” said Deschutes Land Trust executive director, Rika Ayotte. “It’s certainly a path that other land trusts have pursued for land acquisitions elsewhere and a path we might consider for sure. The best thing we can do right now is just to be prepared on the back end and to keep talking about this with the community, to keep talking about this with funders, so that we’re ready for an opportunity.”

According to Gordon, price is the biggest obstacle right now. The current price is aimed at the luxury market buyers, not a conservation coalition. The property owner’s decision of who to sell the property to will be a defining moment for Central Oregon’s future, Gordon noted.

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While a consortium of local organizations pursuing a Skyline purchase currently lacks the funds to acquire Skyline Forest, the group may have other key attributes that separate them from other potential private buyers—largescale recreation and forest management. One of the interested stakeholders is Bend Park and Recreation District, which manages more than 3,000 developed and undeveloped acres and 75 miles of trail. “[Skyline Forest] provided a network of trails that the community has used for years, but lacks management of this recreation resource,” noted Don Horton, executive director of Bend Park and Recreation District. “Given that the property is on the boundary between forest and urban development, forest management to reduce the likelihood of a catastrophic wildfire is critical to the future of our community. … Likely the best management strategy will be a consortium of agencies doing what they do best. Bend Park and Recreation District could certainly manage the recreation resource with other agencies managing the forest and conservation resources.”

Between 2010 and 2020 Bend’s population grew at the torrential rate of 42%, as one of the fastest growing cities in the United States. With an increased base of people who move to Bend for its outdoor lifestyle lie greater opportunities. “Most newcomers don’t necessarily realize this land is at risk,” said LandWatch’s Gordon. “We need to raise awareness of and appreciation for Skyline Forest so that our community can get even more excited about protecting this special place for current and future generations.”

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TRADITION ON DISPLAY photography by Joni Kabana | introduction by Acosia Red Elk

TRIBAL PEOPLES have been an integral part of the Pendleton Round-Up since the very beginning 111 years ago.

The local tribes consisting of the Umatilla, the Cayuse and the Walla Walla have built a relationship with the Round-Up Association.

Every year they show up, set up their Tipi Village consisting of up to 300 tipis, unpack their traditional regalia, dress up their horses and display their culture with pride.

Many other tribes throughout the nation have representatives encamped during the week as well. It is a time of celebration. It has become tradition to gather in the fall and celebrate this event that brings us closer together by allowing us to share our cultures with one another.

The regalia that is brought out during the Round-Up is usually very old family heirlooms that have been saved and protected since the times when our regalia and traditional artifacts were being confiscated and burned or put into museums. At one time, our ancestors were not allowed to wear their traditional clothing, practice their culture or speak their language. And so, to be able to bring them out and wear them brings pride to our people. Our ancestors were resilient and protected what was sacred to them so that we could be here today as the proud tribal People that we are and wear our traditional attire, and sing our songs and offer our dances as a way of saying, “Welcome to our homelands, friends.”

Mille Wallulatum Warm Springs

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Anona Francis Umatilla/Yakima

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FROM TOP Isaiah Florendo Warm Springs Terry Heemsah Yakama

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FROM TOP Acosia Red Elk Umatilla Kellen Joseph Selinma Walla Walla

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Nola Queahpama Warm Springs

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Halo Tomma Yakama

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Where ideas come to live.

Full Spectrum News | opb.org 1859_slogans-Roboto2020.indd 1

12/8/20 6:39 AM

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 84 ADVENTURE 86 LODGING 90 TRIP PLANNER 94

pg. 86 Try these dog-friendly hikes for a tail-wagging good time.

Visit Hood River

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 100

Once we know what you love, we won’t stop until you have it.

All in, for you.

travel spotlight

Crossing With Spirit A land bridge that was created by natural forces and Manito, a Native American spirit written and photographed by Joni Kabana CROSSING A BRIDGE gives many of us pause. Whether it is in awe of the massive structure, fear of dropping below in an enclosed car, or taken by the beauty of the landscape from up in the air, many hearts have been captivated by simply crossing a bridge.

The vast and rapidly charging Columbia River, with its mighty thrust to reach and spill into the Pacific Ocean, is host to many things: fishing, kitesurfing, leisurely floats and the ferrying of various materials. There are various crossing points, but one bridge stands out from the rest because this crossing location was formed 1,000 years ago by natural geological causes.

Imagine when Native American tribes could cross the Columbia River via a naturally formed bridge created by river flow that carved out a dome leaving hardened landslide earth by the Bonneville Landslide that had pushed across the river some 1,000 years ago. Native Americans referred to this natural phenomena as The Bridge of the Gods, named in deference to their Great Spirit “Manito” whom they believed created the bridge for them.

Today, visitors can cross (by vehicle or foot) a 1,127 foot steel truss cantilever toll bridge that was built in 1926 and wonder about its storied history. The Bridge of the Gods also is an emotional demarcation for many Pacific Crest Trail thru-hikers who end their journey at the sight of and when stepping onto this bridge.

Once you’ve made your own crossing, check out Marine Park with its history museum and art park full of bronze sculptures created by artist Heather Soderberg, camp along the Columbia River shore, visit thunderous Cascade Locks or take a ride on the Columbia Sternwheeler. You can book the gorgeous Gorge Pavilion for enclosed activities or even rent your own island on Thunder Island for a wedding, birthday celebration or other special occasion.

By all means, set aside some time to get a burger at the iconic Bridgeside restaurant or Eastwind Drive-in and sip a brew at various brewpubs in the area.

For more information see www.portofcascadelocks.org/bridgeof-the-gods.

Bridge of the Gods was once a water-carved dome that served as a land bridge for Native Americans in the region.

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Cascade Locks THE HEART OF THE GORGE Explore Cascade Locks, home to the Bridge of the Gods, and the perfect home base for exploring all the Gorge has to offer.

www.cascadelocks.com 541-374-8484, ext. 111 tourism@cascade-locks.or.us

adventure

5 Great Off-Leash Hikes in Oregon Destination trails around the state offer freedom and zen for people and their dogs

Jen Sotolongo

written by Jen Sotolongo

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adventure

Senoj Lake is a fairly quiet, easy hike that features several lakes, depending on your starting point.

OREGON DOGS (and their humans) are spoiled with the abundant forested trails that lead to mountain tops, beautiful ocean beaches, and crystalline alpine lakes throughout the state. Outside of the cities, dogs can enjoy responsible off-leash freedom to satisfy all of their sniffing, exploring and swimming desires.

Here are five off-leash trails to consider for your next hike with your best friend.

OFF-LEASH PRIVILEGES: Understanding that

hiking with a dog off-leash is a privilege, not a right, will keep the trails safe and enjoyable for all users.

Do not allow your dog to approach other dogs and people, even if your dog is friendly. Allowing a dog to approach without permission is impolite and can be dangerous if the other dog does not appreciate other dogs in its space. Keep your dog in sight and under voice control at all times.

If your dog does not return to you consistently when you call them, then they need some more recall practice. Keep working in less distracting areas until they return to you every single time.

TRAIL ETIQUETTE AND DOGS: Recall your dog to a heel or leash them when you see or hear other users ahead. You can also step aside and put your dog in a “sit” to allow others to pass.

Always pick up your dog’s poop and pack it out, rather than leave it on the side of the trail to pick up on your return.

OFF-LEASH RESTRICTIONS: Rules for dogs vary in different wilderness areas and trails. In general, Oregon State Parks require dogs to be on a leash no longer than six feet at all times. Crater Lake National Park allows leashed dogs on some trails.

National Forests generally allow for dogs to hike off-leash, however some popular areas may have leash rules. Bend has an off-leash season (September 15 to May 15) on certain trails. Bureau of Land Management properties (BLM) are notably more lenient and typically do not have leash restrictions.

On the Oregon Coast, pets must be leashed in state parks, but are otherwise welcome to run free, as long as the dog is under voice control and does not disturb wildlife or other people.

Developed areas on all lands, like campsites or parks require dogs on leash. Always check the rules before you go, and then again at the trailhead.

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Heather Polonsky (@polonskyspints)

adventure

Linus soaks in some sun on the Bald Butte Trail near Hood River.

HOOD RIVER/MT. HOOD

Bald Butte This year-round trail is a short drive from Hood River and features wildflowers, snowshoeing options in the winter, wooded forests, and a ridgetop with stunning views of the Hood River Valley and prominent Cascade Peaks on a clear day. During spring, balsamroot coats the meadows near the peak.

The 8.2-mile out-and-back trail starts on Oak Ridge Trailhead #688A. After about 2 miles, take a left onto Surveyor’s Ridge for the final push to Bald Butte.

It is possible to turn this hike into a loop by returning along the powerline road. Bear in mind that the powerline road is open to ATVs, and Surveyor’s Ridge Trail is used by mountain bikers. Ticks and rattlesnakes are also found in this area.

YACHATS/OREGON COAST

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trails. While there is no ocean view from this trail, it’s a lovely romp through fern-covered woods that follow Cummins Creek.

The 9.1-mile loop starts off gently before reaching the fork that climbs about 1,000 feet in just over a mile along a ridgeline.

When your calves are just about ready to give out, you’ll reach a T intersection on the trail. Take a right to head down the steep, but wide, hill that takes you back to much gentler single track trail leading to the parking lot.

Mountain bikers frequent this trail, so keep an ear out for them.

BEND/SUNRIVER

Senoj Lake Trail Located off of the Cascade Lakes Highway, in between Bend and Sunriver, Senoj Lake is a fairly quiet, easy hike that features several lakes, depending on your starting point.

From the northern end, take Six Lakes Trail #14, passing Blow and Doris Lakes before merging with Senoj Lake Trail where you’ll arrive at the lake by the same name shortly after. This option is 7.4 miles out and back.

adventure

Alternatively, you can start from the southern end of the highway and hike along Lucky Lake Trail to Senoj Lake. This route is about 11 miles roundtrip. Both routes make for great overnight excursions.

Currently Senoj Lake is not part of the new Central Cascade Wilderness Permitting system, the only permit required is a Northwest Forest Pass.

The lake sits at an elevation of 7,604 feet, tucked in among granite peaks.

This trail is frequented by horses, so if your dog is excited by them, stay aware and make sure their recall obedience is strong.

WALLOWAS/EASTERN OREGON

Right in between the popular resorts of Odell and Crescent Lakes, Fawn Lake sees less traffic and makes for a peaceful hike.

Starting from the Crescent Lake Campground head to the far end of the parking lot to find the Fawn Lake Trailhead. This moderate hike has a little more than 1,100 feet of elevation gain over 7.5 miles. Follow the Fawn Lake Trail to the lake where you can enjoy views of Redtop and Lakeview Mountains. There are camping options if you would like to stay the night.

If you’re feeling up to it, tack on three additional miles and detour to Stag Lake, a stunning turquoise lake with sandy beaches and a view of Lakeview Mountain.

Diamond Peak Wilderness has notoriously ruthless mosquitoes during the summer, so plan your trip for the fall to enjoy the scenery without the annoying bugs.

Chimney Lake via Bowman Trail

Fawn Lake Loop Trail

Wallowa County Chamber of Commerce

Located off of Lostine Road in the Wallowas, Chimney Lake is a long, steady climb to a beautiful alpine lake. The trail starts from the Bowman Trailhead across the road.

About 3 miles along, you’ll reach a sharp turn in the trail where there’s a section of boulders, just off the trail. This is an ideal spot to take a break and eat a snack while enjoying the view of the Lostine Valley.

Continuing up, you’ll reach Laverty Lake, a smaller lake worth exploring. If you’re backpacking and Chimney Lake is full, this is a great alternative. Just about a mile beyond Lavery Lake, you’ll arrive at Chimney Lake.

DIAMOND PEAK WILDERNESS

After a long, steady climb, hikers are rewarded with stunning views of the Wallowas and Chimney Lake.

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Photos: Adrift Hospitality

ROOMS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Bowline Hotel sits on a peer over the mighty Columbia River. Its interiors invoke its Scandinavian heritage. The new property from Adrift Hospitality is also chic in its simplicity.

Lodging

Bowline Hotel written by Kerry Newberry IN CASE OF Sea Lions. Earplugs. That’s on the keycard-sized envelope stuffed with hot pink earplugs in each room at the Bowline Hotel. But don’t worry, you won’t need them. Yes, there are sea lions serenading from the adjacent docks and sea lions swimming by if you book a riverside room (and you should definitely book the riverside room). But the baritone bellows from the curious sea creatures only complement the sense of place you get at this hotel perched over the mighty Columbia River.

The sixth property from Adrift Hospitality, and their second Oregon location (the other one is Ashore Hotel in Seaside), the Bowline is a spot to behold in downtown Astoria. Set in a former seafood processing plant, harkening back to when Astoria was deemed the salmon-canning capital of the world, the hotel pays homage to the region’s salty roots in subtle ways. The designers retained all the original timber/frames in the building and feature historic prints from the Heritage Museum in the hallways.

In the riverfront guest rooms with their minimalist design, mirrors that evoke portholes and ample windows you almost feel like you are staying on a boat. Time slows down on the private balcony where you can spy sea lions and cormorants skimming along the river waves and the vibrant red hulls of massive cargo ships so grand in scale they seem like massive apparitions.

On the left, there’s the elegant arch of the Astoria-Megler Bridge and fishing boats bobbing in waves at sunrise and sunset. Even if you hit snooze, the view begs you to wake early enough to catch sunrise. Since the hotel is located right in the middle of town, it’s an easy walk to Astoria’s boutiques, galleries, restaurants and, of course, breweries. The neighboring business is the beloved Buoy Brewing Company. You’ll want to linger every minute you can at the Bowline, however, if only to enjoy those sea lions.

1 9TH STREET ASTORIA www.bowlinehotel.com

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The thirty-eight guest rooms along with two luxurious suites—The Buoy and The Ice House—mix industrial design with thoughtful details, such as local artwork

by Oregon photographer Justin Bailie and books from Astoria’s independent bookstores. Gas fireplaces add comfort to the rooms, and tall ceilings and large windows bring light even on oyster gray days. Large walk-in showers are stocked with eco-friendly toiletries, and some rooms feature large soaking tubs. Book a river view room for a private balcony that overlooks the Columbia River.

FEATURES Relaxation awaits with two barrel saunas overlooking the river, the most recent perk added to the hotel. A spacious deck with fire pits, Adirondack chairs and leafy plants provides a picturesque point for morning coffee or evening cocktails. Located in the heart of downtown, Bowline allows easy access to the Astoria Riverwalk trail (which stretches 6.4 miles along the city’s waterfront) and the Astoria Trolley that travels to the renowned Columbia River Maritime Museum.

DINING With glorious floor-to-ceiling windows, there’s no better spot in Astoria to catch a Columbia River sunset while eating dinner than The Knot, the onsite upscale bar and lounge. Designed by executive chef Jake Martin, the Scandinavianinspired menu pays homage to Astoria’s rich seafood history. Recent selections include roasted mussels, heirloom carrots with cured rockfish and sorrel and black cod from Tre-Fin, the leading boatcaught fresh fish operation in the area.

AMENITIES All guest rooms have a smart TV, luxurious linens and jersey bathrobes. Select rooms feature large soaking tubs and riverside balconies. Pets are welcome in first-floor rooms and the Ice House. A pet fee of $50 per pet applies with up to three pets per room. Street parking is available, along with an electric vehicle charging station. Valet is $15 per day.

Bikes are free to rent for hotel guests from the nearby Bikes & Beyond. Wi-fi is fast and free.

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3 BEAUTIFUL SPRING HIKES for the Family in Mt. Hood Territory

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T. HOOD TERRITORY is one of Oregon’s top spring playgrounds with two-thirds of it covered with mountains and valleys. From rugged Mt. Hood to the verdant Willamette Valley and through urban forests in between, Mt. Hood Territory paints a beautiful canvas for spring hikes for the whole family. Here are three of our favorites that offer different faces of beauty and myriad adventures.

CAMASSIA NATURE PRESERVE | WEST LINN In a series of short hikes through vibrant blooming camas, the Camassia Natural Area in West Linn is a visual stunner in the spring. Each April and May, camassia quamash, common camas, delights the senses with its deep blue-violet flowers and bright green leaves in contrast to black basalt rock. A narrow trail of boardwalks, wood chips, and dirt leads hikers though a serene setting of small mammal and bird habitat, including nesting grounds for Osprey.

The Main Loop Trail is just less than three-fifths of a mile, but is a sensory journey.

Things to know—there are no dogs allowed and please stay on the trails, as this is private property stewarded by The Nature Conservancy.

This 26-acre park lies just southwest of West Linn High School in West Linn. Pop out to Momiji Sushi after for a light bite of some of the area’s best sushi, or settle down for Moroccan chicken salad and truffle fries at Allium, a French bistro.

Camassia Nature Preserve

GRAHAM OAKS NATURE PARK | WILSONVILLE Birdwatch along three miles of trails in a comely setting in Wilsonville’s new 250-acre Graham Oaks Nature Park. This area was once inhabited by the Kalapuya Tribe, who stewarded the land for oak tree growth. Acorns and camas were primary food sources for the tribe. When Metro acquired the property in 2001, its staff and volunteers help restore the Kalapuya vision of the oak savannah.

With Mill Creek running through its western side, the new Metro park is a wetland mecca for birds such as the western bluebird, white-breasted nuthatch, red-necked grebe, checker mallow, spotted towhee, finches and many more. Soon these trails will be linked in to the Ice Age Tonquin

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Trail, a 22-mile trail that will connect Wilsonville to Sherwood and Tualatin.

After you’ve worked your way through your bird checklist and steps, find a chicken mushroom ramen at Kirin Ramen or McMenamins Old Church and Pub built in 1911 along a Native American trail.

WILDWOOD RECREATION SITE | WELCHES Wildwood Recreation Site along the Mt. Hood Scenic Byway brings together a beautiful drive and a forested hike along the coniferous-dense western shoulder of the Cascades. Chief among its attractions is a favorite with kids—a three-quartermile Streamwatch Trail hike that features a fish viewing window into the Wild and Scenic Salmon

River. Drop your pack there and look for young salmon in the Salmon River.

If you’re looking for something a little more challenging, link up with a longer 4.4 mile loop which starts and ends at Wildwood Recreation Trailhead and passes through stands of western cedar, ponderosa pine, red alder, big-leaf maple and a 1938 sawmill ruin from a logging era gone by.

There are a lifetime’s worth of trails in this area an Mt Hood Territory. Put your hiking trifecta together for your own spring adventure at mthoodterritory.com/trails-guide.

The Barlow Trail Roadhouse (house-made meatloaf) and Rendezvous Grill (rigatoni and aldersmoked chicken) are two sure bets for a good meal at the end of the trail.

trip planner On the north side of the Columbia River, Dog Mountain Trail is a popular spot for hiking among wildflowers.

Hood River and the Columbia Gorge A picturesque getaway for spring blooms and vibrant trails written by James Sinks and world class kiteboarding and windsurfing conditions—from haphazard development and also from being over-loved by the hordes who come to visit. The wildflower show attracts so many that some trails turn into conga lines during peak bloom in April.

So it helps to come prepared. Buy permits ahead of time.

Read signs and be a courteous visitor. Bring cash to pay for parking. Don’t take dogs where they’re not welcome, and pack out the poop where they are. If you park along on the road, be mindful you don’t cross the fog line or else you’ll get towed. Clean your shoes so you don’t bring in hijacker weed seeds.

And always stay on the trail. Robert Frost famously wrote of the joy of finding the road not taken. But in this fragile and beautiful ecosystem, you’ll be a scofflaw if you do.

Jason Hummel Photography/Washington Tourism Alliance

COME SPRING, the Columbia Gorge explodes.

“Prepare to be amazed,” said Renee Tkach, the Towns to Trails manager for the nonprofit Friends of the Columbia Gorge.

As the weather and soil warms, waves of wildflowers paint the hillsides and plateaus overlooking the river, starting at the east end of the gorge and then following the melting snow up the flanks of Mt. Hood. Yellows of Balsamroot. Blues of lupine. Reds of paintbrush. In all, more than 800 different species of flowers help make up nature’s annual picture show, and fifteen of those species aren’t found anywhere else.

Ice age floods that scoured the gorge created the shallow-soil conditions that make this one of the world’s best wildflower places, says Tkach, who joined Friends of the Columbia Gorge after helping create the Cape Horn Trail on the Washington side of the river, at a spot where fields of blue delphiniums dance in the breeze around Mother’s Day. The nonprofit works to protect the scenic river canyon—home to waterfalls, inviting towns and farmstands,

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Book Your Hood River Getaway Explore a world bursting with color, unlimited adventure, and rustic charm. Find the vacation package that fits you!

Discover the deals at visithoodriver.com/packages

Kate Lindberg/Friends of the Columbia Gorge

trip planner

The Tom McCall Point Trail launches from Rowena Crest Viewpoint.

Day WILDFLOWERS • CROISSANT SANDWICHES • ROWENA CREST The mid-gorge city of Hood River is a perfect home base for wildflower hunting. Depending on the year, you’ll be able to head east or west—or up to Mount Hood—to catch the blooms in the act. And any time of year, there’s plenty to do.

No two springs are exactly the same when it comes to the timing of the wildflower wave, so check the frequently updated map at www.nwwildflowers.com. Cell service can be spotty, so download or print any maps you might need. The most popular spots are typically Dog Mountain and Coyote Wall on the north side of the river, and for good reason, but there are dozens of options. Search the trail guide on the Friends of the Columbia Gorge website.

At the 4.4 mile Ferry Springs Loop Trail, where the Deschutes River empties into the Columbia east of The Dalles, you’ll find rimrock, quail, blooming lupines and mock orange—and thinner crowds. There is no day-use parking fee.

Grab croissant sandwiches (gluten-free options are available) at the easternmost location of Petite Provence Bakery, in The Dalles, and then head north across the river to Columbia Hills State Park and the adjacent Natural Area. (Washington State 96 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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parks require a permit.) Here, several trails zigzag through colorful prairies and, if you want a climb, there’s wide a gravel roadbed to the top of Stacker Butte, where your Instagram followers will appreciate the vistas. Verify which trails are open, because they can be closed for fire risk.

As the afternoon starts to wane, head to one of the gorge’s most-photographed gems at Rowena Crest, which perches above the river near the town of Mosier. The lollipop loop trail is 2.2 miles, or you can opt for the 3.4-mile hike to Tom McCall Point, which goes through Nature Conservancy property and is open from May to October. The upper trail includes a section of the former wagon road that connected The Dalles and Hood River.

Afterward, cool your heels and grab a pizza and brews at casual dining Mosier Company, one of the eateries on the East Gorge Food Trail, a locavore list that highlights businesses that buy from nearby farmers. Or head back to downtown Hood River and unwind at more formal Celilo, with its world-class wine list and contemporary organic and farm-to-table American fare.

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Rent bikes or hike the 4.5mile Mosier Twin Tunnels section, which takes you to viewpoints and tunnels, across climate zones and, on the Mosier side of the tunnels, to fields of flowers.

Petite Provence Micheal Drewry/Friends of the Columbia Gorge

After a morning run through Riverfront Park to wake up your senses, start today’s journey with flour power of the culinary sort at Scandinavian-influenced Broder Øst, where you can find your inner Viking and fuel up on Norwegian style potato crepes, Swedish hash and Danish pancakes.

From the time its first section opened in 1915, the Old Columbia River Highway was an engineering marvel that hugged the cliffs of the Gorge and ferried traffic from Portland to points east, until it was replaced by Interstate 84. Now, what’s left of the route is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and several pieces are open only to non-motorized traffic. That includes two stretches near Hood River. Rent bikes or hike the 4.5-mile Mosier Twin Tunnels section, which takes you to viewpoints and tunnels, across climate zones and, on the Mosier side of the tunnels, to fields of flowers.

For lunch, take a quick side trip and a picnic blanket to the Gorge White House among the orchards just south of Hood River for a bacon and pear quesadilla. Then another section of the Old Highway awaits on the west side of town, and this one has waterfalls—four of them. From Starvation Creek State Park, the trail parallels Interstate 84 for roughly 5 miles. Flowers typically bloom here a little later in the season. The place was named Starvation Creek, somewhat melodramatically, when trains were trapped in the 1880s by snow drifts for three weeks and passengers had to dig out, and some walked to Portland. No one actually starved.

If you are a train fan and you’re all hiked out, the Mount Hood excursion train whisks passengers on day-trips up the Hood River valley to Parkdale, south of town. They have snacks for sale, so starvation is unlikely.

Toast the end of another happy day while watching the Columbia slide past at the upscale Riverside restaurant, on the banks of the river, with appropriately floral-forward drinks in hand.

Debbie Asakawa/Friends of the Columbia Gorge

HISTORIC HIKES • TRAINS • TOASTS

FROM TOP Walk through history on the Mosier Twin Tunnels hike. Fortify yourself with almond croissants and other delicious options at Petite Provence in The Dalles. The Starvation Ridge Trail offers stunning views.

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EAT Broder Øst www.brodereast.com Celilo Restaurant and Bar www.celilorestaurant.com Michael Hanson

Gorge White House www.thegorgewhitehouse.com High Mountain Cafe www.highmountaincafe.com Mosier Company www.mosiercompany.com Riverside www.riversidehoodriver.com Skyway Bar & Grill www.skywaybarandgrill.com

Columbia Gorge Hotel and Spa www.columbiagorgehotel.com Cooper Spur Mountain Resort www.cooperspur.com Hood River Hotel www.hoodriverhotel.com

Mt. Hood Outfitters

STAY MountNbarreL

HOOD RIVER + THE COLUMBIA GORGE, OREGON

trip planner

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The historic Gorge White House serves up farmfresh food and libations.

Dine on the water at Riverside restaurant in Hood River. Mt. Hood Outfitters rents kayaks at scenic Trillium Lake, near Mount Hood.

Timberline Lodge www.timberlinelodge.com

PLAY Columbia Gorge trail guide www.gorgefriends.org Elk Meadow Trail www.alltrails.com/trail/us/ oregon/elk-meadow-trail Mosier Twin Tunnels trail www.gorgefriends.org/hike-thegorge/mosier-twin-tunnels.html Mt. Hood Railway www.mthoodrr.com Trillium lake kayaks www.mthoodoutfitters.com/ watercraft-rentals

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Day MOUNT HOOD • KAYAKS • PATIO DINING If spring is waning and the snow is receding on the mountain, drive an hour up Highway 36 to the alpine hamlet of Government Camp, known to the locals as “Govy.” The unincorporated town earns its name from the first regiment of U.S. Mounted Riflemen to cross the Oregon Trail who, exhausted by traveling through mud and snow, abandoned forty-five wagons here in 1849.

Webs of trails crisscross the area including the well-known (and fairly busy) Historic Timberline Trail, which loops 40 miles around the dormant volcano. You can catch the trail for day-hikes from iconic Timberline Lodge.

For a less crowded trek that’s known for blooms, the Elk Meadow Trail, a moderaterated 6.4-mile loop with a challenging river crossing, starts along the access road to the Mt. Hood Meadows ski area.

Check trail reports from the US Forest Service and BLM to make sure wildfiredamaged routes are open—many of them still healing.

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Warm after hiking and want to get onto the water? Mt. Hood Outfitters rents kayaks on snow-fed Trillium Lake, where you can paddle around the entire lake in a few hours under breathtaking views of the mountain, and watch ducks dive for food in the shallows. The shorelines will splash with wildflowers until the mid-summer, and as the season creeps on, the water itself will blossom with yellowflowered lilypads.

Also, it seems like an obvious final reminder, except lately people seem to be forgetting: Wherever you go, don’t pick the flowers, said Tkach of Friends of the Columbia Gorge. Last year, she saw several bouquets of dead flowers dumped trailside. Protect the landscape and let the next visitors also enjoy them, she asks.

You’ve burned some calories and seen a rainbow of blooms, so reward yourself with a final pit stop at the colorful and kitschy Skyway Bar & Grill in Zigzag. Relax by the fire or on the patio, add jalapeños and bacon to their smoky mac and cheese, and start posting those pictures on Instagram.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOEL SARTORE

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northwest destination

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Seabrook follows the planning tenets of New Urbanism, with its twin goals of environmental sustainability and livability. Seabrook invites visitors to ditch their cars and stroll between neighborhoods. Satiate your sweet tooth at Sweet Life Ice Cream and Candy Shop.

Skimboard at the nearby beach.

Stunning Seabrook Discover seaside delights at this Washington destination written by James Sinks

IF THE PICTURE-PERFECT beach hamlet of Seabrook feels like it is out of a movie, it’s by design.

Nestled between Gray’s Harbor and Pacific Beach a two-anda-half-hour drive from Seattle, the resort town is modeled in part by Seaside, Florida, the tidy community that helped to inspire The Truman Show. In Seabrook, the starring attraction is one of the most striking stretches of coastline in Washington, set against a beachfront community peppered with fire pits, parks, eateries and promenades.

Seabrook invites you to do everything on foot. First opened in 2004 and now up to 475 houses—many of them vacation rentals with ocean views—the Cape Cod-evoking development follows the planning tenets of New Urbanism, with its twin goals of environmental sustainability and livability.

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neighborhoods, gathering spots, and a boutique-and-restaurant district, via a network of intersecting walkways and oyster-shell footpaths. There’s no gas station, but there’s a farm district with horses, and a mile of sand awaits at the bottom of three beach access trails.

The legend on the official resort map doesn’t show mileage: It shows how far you can walk in about five minutes.

Developer Casey Roloff, a University of Puget Sound alum who founded Seabrook with his wife, Laura, says the goal was not to just build and sell houses. It was about creating a place where their family would want to live. Like a proud parent, he leads walking tours of the resort on some Saturdays.

For thousands of years, this area was a hunting, gathering and fishing destination for the Quinault Tribe. Here, people made baskets, clothes and canoes, harvested salmon and razor clams, and hunted bear, deer and elk.

SEABROOK, WASHINGTON

Stephen Mason/Seabrook

northwest destination

EAT Vista Bake Shop www.vistabakeshop.com Koko’s Restaurant and Tequila Bar www.kokos-restaurant.com Stowaway Wine Bar www.thestowaway winebarseabrookwa.com Sweet Life Ice Cream and Candy Shop www.sweetlifewa.com

STAY Pacific Beach Yurts www.parks.wa.gov/557/ Pacific-Beach Vacation rentals www.seabrookwa.com

PLAY Beach horseback rides www.chenoiscreek horserentals.com Buck’s Northwest www.bucksbicyclerepair.com Gnome trail www.seabrookwa.com/ things-to-do/fall-activities/ build-gnome-house

Today, it’s a playground, chockablock with options.

Want to relax? Melt into Spa Elizabeth for a massage, grab a page-turner at the aptly-titled Joie Des Livres (The Joy of Books) and head to Overlook Park to watch the sun set into the Pacific.

The only thing that will improve the view is a Bordeaux or bubbly from Stowaway Wine Bar. Kids to entertain? Splash in the in the indoor heated swimming pool and construct a tiny house from natural materials like seashells and sticks, and leave it among a neighborhood of others along the resort’s forested “Gnome Trail.”

Or, hoping to break a sweat? Rent a mountain bike at Duke’s and ply the latticework of trails on neighboring Department of Natural Resources property, skimboard on the beach, or standup paddleboard in the nearby Copalis Ghost Forest, where cedars that died in a massive 1700 earthquake still hunch alongside the river.

Jose Moreno/Seabrook

Juan A. Hernandez/Seabrook

Seabrook

Joie Des Livres www.facebook.com/ joiedeslivres.seabrook Spa Elizabeth www.spaelizabeth.com

Afterward, your palate would love to get acquainted with the spicy margaritas at Koko’s Restaurant and Tequila Bar. Also, your kids won’t forgive you—and your partner probably won’t either—if you don’t make at least one trip to Sweet Life Ice Cream and Candy Shop.

The resort can also be a jumping-off point: A half hour south, you’ll find the wide-boulevard beach town of Ocean Shores, home to kayak-friendly canals, beach horseback rides and the blackjack tables at Quinault Beach Resort & Casino.

An hour north of Seabrook, get lost in the mossy rainforests and rugged seascapes of Olympic National Park. Hike to waterfalls, check out Lake Quinault, and strike an Instagram pose on Ruby Beach, where rocky seastacks, gnarls of driftwood and anemone-filled tidepools form the backdrop. Remember shoes: There’s not soft sand like at Seabrook, and you don’t want grimaces in your photos.

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1859 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.

Astoria Seaside

Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham

Pendleton

The Dalles La Grande

Maupin Government Camp

Pacific City Lincoln City

Baker City

Salem Newport

Madras

Albany Corvallis

Prineville

Eugene Springfield

John Day

Redmond

Sisters Florence

Ontario

Bend Sunriver Burns

Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon

Roseburg

Grants Pass Brookings

Jacksonville

Paisley

Medford Ashland

Klamath Falls

Lakeview

Live

Think

Explore

26 Van Henion Brewing

50 Hatfield Marine Science Center

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Bridge of the Gods

28 Sibeiho

52 Cook Memorial Library

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Fawn Lake Loop Trail

28 Pennington Farms

52 Lake Oswego

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Bowline Hotel

30 Stephanie Inn

56 Golden Tradition Saffron

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Rowena Crest

46 Phinney Gallery

58 Oregon Cultural Trust

100 Seabrook, Washington

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Until Next Time Fat biking at Lincoln City. photo by TravelOregon.com