TRIP PLANNER: SILVERTON + MOUNT ANGEL PG. 92
Sweet + Spicy Pear Recipes
A Stylish Airstream Makeover
The Business of Timber
I NSI D
E:
YOUR S K I G PNW U I DE THE
N THE I EW, C + TH E ON I C BU FRIEN DGE TDLY
How to
Holiday
BEST OREGON ALBUMS OF 2023
OUTDOOR ICE RINKS, PARTY-APPROVED BEER PAIRINGS + WHERE TO GET AWAY FOR A STRESS-FREE CELEBRATION
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November | December
volume 83
Discover yourself here. Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Coming Summer 2024, a vibrant community plaza, specialty retail and even more amenities will continue to set this neighborhood apart from the rest. Ready to start your home search journey? Discover more about our highly-skilled Builders Guild and available new homes, cottages, townhomes and more at DiscoveryWestBend.com or visit our Discovery Pod at the Corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.
LIVE IN THE MOMENTS THAT INSPIRE YOU. EVERY DAY. Your life’s journey is reflected in the details that surround you. Warm hospitality, personal touches, and legendary Ritz-Carlton service await your return home. Here, meticulously designed Residences capture the beauty of the Pacific Northwest, precisely positioned to elevate your lifestyle. Embrace your moment and live here, always. Opening November 2023. Learn more about The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Portland RCRPortland.com
RESIDENCES STARTING AT $1.2M
The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Portland are not owned, developed, or sold by The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, LLC, or its affiliates (The Ritz-Carlton)®. BPM Real Estate Group uses The Ritz-Carlton marks under a license from The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, LLC.
Welcome to the State Pear photography by Jen Jones Oregon’s state fruit gets a closer look and a remake into enticing recipes in Farm to Table. (pg. 28) 2 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
Pears at McCarthy Family Farm near Parkdale.
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 3
FEATURES
Tobias Nolan
Winter is a magical time in Central Oregon.
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023 • volume 83
68
78
The State of Timber
Coastal Artists
How stewardship of our forests comes down to who owns them. Are we trending in the right direction?
Cannon Beach’s Stormy Weather Arts Festival and Modern Villa Gallery celebrate the arts.
written by Daniel O’Neil
written by Kerry Newberry
60 Holidays’ Best Hosts Let these iconic institutions do the cooking for you and start these new stress-free traditions. written by Jean Chen Smith
4
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
seaside is for Making big plans with best friends
We could all use more time with friends. And somehow it can feel easier to make big plans than to find time to get coffee. So here’s an idea. Break out the calendar, start a text chain and make plans to spend a few days with a good friend or three here in Seaside. Long walks, hikes and bike rides await.
@visitseasideOR seasideOR.com
DEPARTMENTS NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023 • volume 83
88
LIVE 16 NOTEBOOK
The best albums of the year; the “elsewhere” immigrant experience; Liberace and Liza.
24 FOOD + DRINK
Elegant wine dinners and new hot spots in Bend. Tyler Roemer/Sunriver Resort
28 FARM TO TABLE
44
27
Oregon’s state fruit—the pear—has a storied past, a bright future and can be made into a delightful cocktail, too.
38 HOME + DESIGN
A Southern Oregon couple plies their creative trade to makeover old Airstreams and travel trailers.
44 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Philip Blair finds beauty and solitude in Oregon winters and photography.
THINK 50 STARTUP
U of O’s Diego Melgar brings new technology and collaboration in predicting the Big One.
52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
The Portland-based Trailkeepers of Oregon.
54 MY WORKSPACE
John Ivanoff started with an angel food cake and ended up in a dangerous profession.
56 GAME CHANGER
Dear Irene
Philip Blair
Micro Enterprise Services of Oregon focuses on startups by people of color.
EXPLORE 86 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Echo, Oregon’s (Portuguese) St. Peter’s Catholic Church.
12 Editor’s Letter 13 1859 Online 102 Map of Oregon 104 Until Next Time
88 ADVENTURE
Lace ’em up at these ice rinks around Oregon over the holidays.
90 LODGING
The long-awaited Ritz-Carlton is finally here and dressed up nicely.
92 TRIP PLANNER
Silverton and Mount Angel.
98 NW DESTINATION
The culinary scene of Whistler, plus winter things.
COVER
photo by Rich Bacon Central Oregon (see “New Ways to Holiday,” pg. 60)
6
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
SPEND A WEEKEND EXPLORING SOME
NEW GRAPE STOMPING GROUNDS.
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CONTRIBUTORS
CATE ANDREWS Illustrator Game Changer
DANIEL O’NEIL Writer The State of Timber
JULIE LEE Writer Farm to Table
CHARLA PETTINGILL Illustrator Beerlandia
“I love stepping through the innocuous and illuminating portal of illustration to get a small glimpse into how much is outside of my awareness. It’s a delight to learn something new each project. The creating process, stepping through that door, is only aided by what’s surrounding me—the glittering ocean, thickly forested trails, the dreamiest sunsets. Ephemeral Pacific Northwest inspiration made accessible through a world of images.” (pg. 56)
“Oregon’s forests are a state treasure, but not long ago I didn’t even know who owned them, and I’ve lived here my whole life. I think it’s essential that all Oregonians understand the realities of forestland ownership and assume greater responsibility for their land. The future for Oregon’s forests holds promise, but only an informed populace can take us there.” (pg. 68)
“I have vivid childhood memories of wandering through my step-grandfather’s Hood River orchard, the scent of ripening pears bouncing off low-hanging fruit at the first blush of fall. Like the scenic, 35-mile Hood River Fruit Loop itself, my life comes full circle with the chance to reminisce and spotlight McCarthy Family Farm, another storied Mount Hood fruit farm, in this issue’s Farm to Table.” (pg. 28)
“Creating work using traditional media such as gouache as well as using digital tools, I find inspiration for illustrations in everyday moments spent exploring downtown Savannah or combing the beaches of coastal Georgia. I love making playful artwork that brings joy to others.” (pg. 24)
Cate Andrews is an illustrator and designer by moonlight, working in the horticulture industry by daylight. She lives a little north of Oregon with her enormous kitty cat, Panna Cotta.
Daniel O’Neil lives, writes, photographs and does other exciting things on the Oregon Coast, where he especially likes a chance of rain.
8 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
Julie Lee is a freelance writer and strategic partnership manager for Little Bird Media Solutions in Portland. She splits her scarce and sacred downtime between hot yoga studios and the sofa, cuddling her obnoxious English bulldog, Walter.
Charla Pettingill is an illustrator and surface designer based in Savannah, Georgia. She is a Savannah College of Art and Design alumna, where she is now a professor of Illustration.
HERE, NOT HING S TANDS S T ILL . Spectacular ocean views. Innovative coastal cuisine. Restorative spa treatments. Sunset bonfires on the beach. Heart-pumping dune hikes. Head out. Stay in.
PAC I F I C C I T Y, O R EG O N
H E A D L A N D S LO D G E .CO M
5 03 . 4 8 3 . 3 0 0 0
EDITOR
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
HOMEGROWN CHEF
Thor Erickson
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Jeremy Storton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, James Sinks, Jen Sotolongo, Grant Stringer
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Rich Bacon, Jeff Daly, Jen Jones, Joni Kabana, Tambi Lane, Tobias Nolan, Daniel O’Neil, David Shockey
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Cate Andrews, Bea Hayward, Charla Pettingill
Headquarters
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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
10 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
Oregon’s South Coast Getaways Powered By Nature
FROM THE
EDITOR
AS WE DRAW NEAR the holidays, keep in mind what they might look like from the eyes of a family that is barely able to keep the family sheltered, from the eyes of kids who go to school hungry in the morning, grinning until lunch is served. Keep in mind that the shoes you walk in may not be on the tougher road that others walk daily, turning aside hateful comments about race, gender or religion. Keep this in your heart when you are presented with the opportunity to make someone’s life a little better, even just momentarily. These moments all add up. If you’re looking to have special moments for your own family this holiday season, read about Silverton and Mount Angel in Trip Planner on page 92. Covered bridges, millions of holiday lights, the bustle of Silverton’s holiday market, German Christmas scenes in Mount Angel and ending the day at the holy Benedictine Brewery, where the head brewer Father Martin Grassel practices the monastic art of brewing to great fanfare. Beginning on page 88, we glide through a number of our favorite places to strap on ice skates and turn your holiday into a Rockwell postcard, or a postcard for a medical clinic depending on your ability and your safety
12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
precautions. It will end up on Instagram either way. In this issue’s Farm to Table, we dissect Oregon’s state fruit—the pear. Oregon and Washington together produce 84 percent of the national crop. When you put a pear on the menu, it can take many forms, such as a green Anjou matcha smoothie, whipped ricotta pear crostini and a sexy, spicy pear cocktail. Turn to page 34 for these recipes and, as our Homegrown Chef implores, grow a pear! Besides pear orchards, Oregon is home to abundant stands of timber. Since 2020, forest fires have consumed 2.6 million acres in Oregon. Nonetheless, by some estimates, forests cover roughly half of Oregon—30.5 million acres—making it one of our top commodities. The forestry industry continues to evolve, and with it many different ownership models and different stewardship models apply to different stands of trees. On page 68, Daniel O’Neil explores the different ownership models and demonstrates why that matters to us. Slip into these holidays with Ben Salmon’s picks for the best albums of the year from Oregon musicians (pg. 18) and impress your friends with holiday beer pairings from cicerone Jeremy Storton on page 24. Cheers!
1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon
HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/postcard photo by David Beckwith A 0.4-mile trail leads you to Watson Falls, the tallest waterfall in southwest Oregon at a 293-foot drop. This waterfall is located down the road from the ever-popular Toketee Falls.
WINE COUNTRY GETAWAY Experience cellar season in a new way—enter for a chance to win a wine country getaway to the Eugene area from Eugene, Cascades & Coast! One winner will receive a two-night stay at the Graduate Eugene*, two tickets to the Museum of Natural and Cultural History, and a complimentary wine tasting at Pfeiffer Winery’s Eugene tasting room, Oregon Wine LAB and Capitello Wines.
ER ENT IN! W TO
Enter at www.1859oregonmagazine.com/ contests/eugenewinegetaway Sweepstakes runs November 1-30. *Stay must be completed between January 1 and March 30, 2024.
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
SHOP LOCAL Find the perfect gift at Local, our curated online shop of goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find jewelry, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1859 T-shirts, hats and other apparel. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregon magazine.com/shop 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Bethany Williams
NOTEBOOK 16 FOOD + DRINK 24 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 38 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 44
pg. 38 Inside a renovated travel trailer of a Southern Oregon duo whose company, Perpetually Devastated, is perpetually creative and productive.
The hills (and beaches, rainforests, trails, and towns) are alive with silence.
It’s official. The summer crowds have vanished and the slooow season has arrived. Get in sync with our quiet season … more nature, more space and a slower pace on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula.
OlympicPeninsula.org
notebook
Tidbits + To-dos
AJ Meeker
written by Cathy Carroll
Elana Gabrielle Prints and Textiles From mermaid muses and river goddesses to garden bounty, illustrator-maker-designer Elana Gabrielle’s prints, kitchen linens, bandanas and stationery reflect her love of the natural world. She handmakes these goods in Portland, mirroring the environment through form, function and sustainable practices, using natural fibers, dyes and inks. Once in your home, they’ll evoke a childhood spent outdoors building backyard fairy houses and making toys out of found treasures.
Kachka Dinner Series The Roots and Wings dinner series at Portland’s Kachka continues into the spring. It’s inspired by the home cooking of co-founder Bonnie Morales’ Jewish immigrant family from Belarus as well as its evolution via staff research trips to Belarus, Estonia, Georgia, Latvia, Lithuania, Russia, Ukraine and Uzbekistan. On Nov. 8, it’s Tatar Melting Pot—the hearty, bold dishes of Kazan. On Dec. 6, Samarkand Bazaar is a sensory journey through Uzbekistan and Central Asia. www.kachkapdx.com
ur R yo A
www.elanagabrielle.com
k D ar m LEN
CA
The Beer Hall event space.
One of Ferment Brewing Company’s new releases, The Sentinel, is a tribute to the Columbia River Gorge, brewed with ingredients from the slopes of Mount Hood: spring water, foraged Douglas fir tips and wild yeast. Sip one at The Beer Hall, the new private event space for meetings, parties and familystyle dinners, set among Hood River’s downtown shops and the river. It’s available seven days a week and seats up to seventy imbibers.
Ferment Brewing Company
16
Ferment Brewing’s The Sentinel and Event Space
www.fermentbrewing.com
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
Portland Center Stage
notebook
Liberace & Liza Put more rhinestones, sequins and false eyelashes in your holiday—along with great live music and comedy. It’s nonstop glamor and glitz as Portland’s David Saffert and Jillian Snow take the stage as Liberace and Liza Minnelli Nov. 11 through Dec. 24. Cheeky musical numbers, costumes and laughs make the season sparkle. Alongside it at Portland Center Stage: Dracula: A Feminist Revenge Fantasy, Really, Nov. 25 through Dec. 24. www.pcs.org
Nossa Coffee and Metolius Tea Gift Set Nossa Coffee of Portland has released a gift set of its Festa Holiday Blend and Metolius Tea’s Chai Syrup. This year’s Festa, a dark roast with notes of brown sugar, cherry, cocoa and almond, helps support women coffee growers in a remote area of Guatemala. Bend’s Metolius Chai is a handsomely caffeinated, organic elixir of cardamom, fresh ginger and cracked pepper. It’s perfect with steamed milk or over vanilla ice cream. www.nossacoffee.com
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 17
notebook Lo Steele | Happy Girl
OREGON ALBUMS OF 2023 written by Ben Salmon | illustrations by Bea Hayward
FROM ASTORIA to Ontario to Portland’s ever-fertile music scene—and points in between—musicians across Oregon created some incredible sounds in 2023. Here are the 23 best albums released by artists across the state this year. 18
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
Zach Feiner and Cooper Pattison
The 23 Best
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Beyond the Lamplight Don’t Forget To Leave It All Behind Folk-punk heroes Larry and His Flask are arguably the biggest band to come out of Bend … so far, at least. Alas, the Flask is no more, but two of its integral members carry on in Beyond the Lamplight, a band that blends punk spirit with soaring melodies. This is raucous rock ‘n’ roll that’s comfortable in dive bars, but ready for arenas.
Cherry Cheeks CCLPII Portland is home to a lot of great record labels including Total Punk, one of the best—you guessed it—punk labels on the planet. And Total Punk is home to Cherry Cheeks, a band that takes lean guitar riffs, toe-tappin’ pace and buzzy synthesizers, smashes ’em all together and squeezes out a big, overflowing bucket of hooks.
Bijoux Cone Love Is Trash For her sophomore album, Portland’s Bijoux Cone wrote songs about love and loss, relationships and impermanence, the erasure of transgender people and the acceptance of queer perspectives. Love Is Trash is a very twentyfirst century kind of record, which is reflected in its sound: dusky and downcast, sumptuous and hopeful, all at the same time.
Fernmage Brrrrackenlore Next to nothing is known about the person behind Fernmage, but that’s part of the fun, really. Based in Eugene, ostensibly, this cozily mysterious musical project employs an army of soothing, twinkling synths to tell instrumental tales of the “Magical Folk” who roam the Cascade mountains. Grab your wizard hat and settle in for the journey!
Darrell Grant’s MJ New Our Mr. Jackson Pianist Darrell Grant is a longtime pillar of the Portland jazz scene, but this is the debut recording of his MJ New project, which draws influence from a variety of sources: classical music, blues, gospel and bebop. The result is a lively form of chamber jazz that is forward-thinking but rooted in tradition, upbeat, fun and cool as a cucumber.
The Hackles What A Beautiful Thing I Have Made The award for “Aptly Named Album of the Year” goes to The Hackles, an Astoria-based folk-pop trio that did, in fact, make a beautiful thing. This is no surprise, given who’s involved: members of Blind Pilot, Horse Feathers, River Whyless and so on. The arrangements are gently dynamic, the melodies memorable, and the vocal harmonies wondrous.
Thomas Teal
Darrell Grant’s MJ New | Our Mr. Jackson
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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notebook
Kait De Angelis
Kassi Valazza | Kassi Valazza Knows Nothing
Lo Steele Happy Girl
Sunwell Sunwell
Blues singer LaRhonda Steele is a Portland legend, known across the region for her show-stopping voice. Now, her daughter Lo is stepping up to show off the skills she inherited from Mom. Happy Girl is a stunning debut packed wall to wall with cool neo-soul songs that put the spotlight on Lo’s own endlessly compelling vocals.
While recording its debut album, this new Salem band survived both a global pandemic and two lineup changes. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, of course, and Sunwell has set itself a promising course with this collection of songs that straddle the lines between slick pop-rock, effervescent prog and eye-popping technical chops. An impressive balance!
No-No Boy Empire Electric Equal parts indie-folk band, decade-long research project and history lesson, No-No Boy is the name Dr. Julian Saporiti uses for his incredible musical endeavors. On Empire Electric, the Portland artist blends important stories, field recordings, spoken word, sampled sounds and beautiful melodies into a complex and transportive representation of the Asian experience in America.
20
Kassi Valazza Kassi Valazza Knows Nothing Kassi Valazza sounds less like an artist who is influenced by the music of the past and more like she is truly a visitor from another time. The Portland singer-songwriter’s starlit, slightly psychedelic sound wanders the boundaries between traditional country and the folk revival of the ’60s and ’70s. It’s also a welcome refuge in current times.
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
13 MORE
ALBUMS WORTH HEARING 1. Babytooth | Babytooth 2. EPROM | Syntheism 3. Heavy Light | Frames 4. Hello Traitor | Generation Chains 5. Mauve | About The Weather 6. Michal Palzewicz Trio | Vol. 2 7. Milc & Televangel | The Fish That Saved Portland 8. Neiles | Let’s Dive Right In 9. Roman Norfleet and Be Present Art Group | Roman Norfleet and Be Present Art Group 10. Spirit Possession | Of The Sign… 11. Sqip | Boi 12. U SCO | Catchin’ Heat 13. Victory Over the Sun | Dance You Monster To My Soft Song!
FIND THE
PERFECT HOLIDAY GIFTS AT YOUR LOCAL PENDLETON STORE Visit our website for locations:
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717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com
Rhapsody In Blue For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.
notebook
Bibliophile
Sindya Bhanoo’s intimate stories of South Indian immigrants are the latest from this O. Henry Prize winner.
The Allure, and Price, of “Elsewhere” Sindya Bhanoo invites readers on a journey of women claiming and surrendering power interview by Cathy Carroll
SINDYA BHANOO’S Seeking Fortune Elsewhere won the 2023 Oregon Book Award for fiction and the 2022 New American Voices Award. The story collection centers on the disguised regrets, hopes and triumphs of immigrants and their complicated journeys. A longtime newspaper reporter, she has worked for The New York Times and The Washington Post, where she is still a contributor. Her reporting has received support and recognition from numerous organizations, including the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting. She teaches fiction and journalism at Oregon State University’s School of Writing, Literature, and Film in Corvallis, where she lives. 22
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
How much were these stories inspired by your personal history and your journalism? The ultimate product is a work of fiction. I always start with a kernel of truth, sometimes that comes from my own experience and sometimes it comes from something I’ve seen or read about in the news. In order to succeed, the fiction has to rise beyond that kernel of truth and reach toward its own emotional truth. I make things up—in other words, I write fiction—in service of that emotional truth. If fiction does not rise above fact, I find that my story stagnates. Sometimes the kernel fully disappears from the story as fictional characters take on a life of their own. Other times, it remains. “No. 16 Model House Road” is about a woman whose house is being converted into a set of flats. Those conversions are now a common phenomenon in urban India. That’s one of the tidbits I started the story with. I’m always trying to explore some aspect of a person’s life and character that I don’t understand. In this story, I wanted to understand the emotional experience of Latha, my main character, as she made an important decision about a house she loved. Do you think that fiction evokes more empathy and understanding than journalism?
It can. But I would argue, too, that it is not fair to compare the two in this way. Journalism is a public service. The goal is to inform members of the public about people and events. There is artistry in journalism, room to have fun and a chance to make readers laugh and cry, but, fundamentally, the goal is to deliver information efficiently. It is true, though, that I turned to fiction because I felt limited by the sort of newspaper reporting I was doing. I was jumping from one story to the next. I love reporting, but I wanted more time to linger, and I wanted to offer the day-to-day lives of ordinary people more space on the page. Do you have a sense that there’s much awareness among younger generations of the poignant cultural and social losses you so vividly depict in the story “Malliga Homes?” There are certain aspects of human culture that will never change. Loss and separation are two of those things. “Malliga Homes” came out in the literary journal Granta in March 2020. The pandemic had just shut the world down, separating families, sometimes even those living in the same city, for many months. I was surprised and moved to hear from readers from diverse backgrounds who wrote to me and said the story meant a great deal to them.
BEER PAIRING TIPS The Beer Pairing ABCs Remember these elements when planning your pairings: A: Align flavor intensities. B: Bridge similar flavors. C: Contrast different flavors. C: Cut intense flavors with opposites (for example, spicy and sweet). C: Beware—like flavors can cancel each other (sweet + sweet = definitely not sweet).
Beerlandia
Holiday Party Pairings
C: Cleanse your palate with carbonation, acid and bitterness between bites.
written by Jeremy Storton | illustration by Charla Pettingill I HADN’T BEEN much of a carnival type since I was a kid, but there I was, running the Drinko game for all the contestants. Drinko is really Plinko, but this version was a 10-foot-tall board covered in Saran wrap into which people tossed crushed beer cans. I received an exclusive invite to a private beer festival in its fifteenth year and thought I should volunteer. In case you think you misread “private beer festival,” you got it right. Imagine a bottle share, beer festival and carnival with a 30-foot maypole with streamers, games, music, a blind beer tasting challenge and comedic skits, except in someone’s backyard. Volunteers checked invites at one table and more volunteers sold this year’s T-shirt at another. The entire event was about well-organized frivolity … and beer. This got me thinking: We really ought to step up our holiday party game. We’ve all been to parties where guests bring some food to share, something good to drink, and then spend hours trying to sound interesting or, more importantly, interested. What if we took a page from this backyard beer blast from above and create an event people will look forward to every year? Imagine a holiday party with a theme—North Pole BBQ, Tropical Thanksgiving or Christmas Vacation movie, for example—where everyone dresses accordingly. Then, instead of a potluck, imagine guests bringing food paired with beer to share as a course. Pairing takes a beer and turns it into something more memorable. And pairing is more intuitive than we think. We inherently know what we like and should have more confidence in sharing it. The best part is people will generally step up their game to impress, and by the end of the evening, everyone will be feeling merry and bright.
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Caylor Ventro, Portal Tea Company / PORTLAND
Coconut Chai Coquito
• 11/2 ounces Bacardi Rum • 3 ounces Portal Tea Coconut Chai Concentrate • 2 ounces coconut cream
24 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
Add all ingredients to a shaker with crushed ice. Shake it up, and serve. Garnish with a cinnamon stick, if desired. Optional: Have a sweeter tooth? Try adding a splash of brown sugar syrup.
S: Seek professional help from chefs, cheese mongers or a cicerone.
Pairings to Try • IPA with bleu cheese • Double IPA with carrot cake • Pumpkin beer with dark chocolate and cranberries or cherries • Pale ale with milk chocolate and orange • Strong winter ale with peppermint chocolate bark • Märzen or Flanders sour with turkey and mashed potatoes • Porter with prime rib • Belgian quad with pistachios, Marcona almonds, dried cherries, dried apricots and manchego cheese
AND RELAX! After a day on the trails, grab a drink and a bite to eat in Redmond, The Hub of Good Times and Unexpected Finds in Central Oregon. Where to Stay
COME OUT S HANG. E P FIND T 2 0MORE T HAT SUTTLELODGE.COM | 6 : 3 0
food + drink
CRAVINGS: COZY TEA
Port Orford Sustainable Seafood
PORTAL TEA COMPANY
Port Orford Sustainable Seafood at work in the Pacific off the Oregon Coast.
Gastronomy
Port Orford Sustainable Seafood written by Kerry Newberry LOCATED ALONG the Southern Oregon Coast, Port Orford (population 1,155) is not your average fishing hub. It’s home to one of only two commercial “dolly docks” in the U.S. Each day, a canary yellow crane cinematically lifts every boat in and out of the water. “I like to say this bottleneck keeps our boats small scale and our fleet sustainable,” said Kean Fleming. Fleming works with Port Orford Sustainable Seafood, a community-supported fishery (CSF) that delivers wild, line-caught seafood directly from boat to table. “Much like a CSA connects you with a farm and the people growing your food, a CSF does the same thing,” said Fleming. “It connects you to our zip code and our fishing families.” While some ports host larger boats that might fish seasonally for one species, like hake, Port Orford’s smaller vessels fish throughout the year and only in small volume. “We call them portfolio boats because they hold a lot of different permits for various fisheries,” said Fleming. It’s an ideal scenario for CSF members. When you join, you can choose from an array of seafood ranging from lingcod and sablefish to rockfish, albacore tuna, Chinook salmon, Pacific halibut, Dungeness crab and more, depending on the season. Each package is labeled with the captain and name of their fishing vessel. “We have members who develop preferences not just for a specific species, but for how fishers handle their catch, so they love Kenny Nakazawa’s salmon or Aaron Longton’s black cod,” said Fleming. Other revelations for members? “The huge variety of rockfish that exist,” added Fleming. “We have over eighty different species in Oregon. Some people get pleasantly surprised to discover they prefer vermilion rockfish to black rockfish.” 444 JACKSON ST. PORT ORFORD www.posustainableseafood.com
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Recently rebranded from Tea Chai Te, this beloved haven for tea lovers (the first tea house opened in 2003) still has the same welcoming mantra: Tea As You Are. Cozy up at four different locations (Northwest 23rd Avenue, Mississippi Avenue and the Sellwood Caboose in Portland, or their newest hub for college students in Eugene). Choose from more than 120 creative loose-leaf tea blends from a warming banana bread rooibos chai to a dreamy night bloom jasmine. Plus: Try Portal Tea Company’s Coconut Chai Coquito cocktail recipe on pg. 24. 41 W. BROADWAY EUGENE www.portaltea.co
METOLIUS TEA On a brisk autumn night, a steamy cup of North (a sweet and spicy blend of coconut, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, licorice and pink peppercorns) brings comfort and warmth. It’s one of many small-batch and satisfying teas from this woman-owned company in Bend. You can also opt for their popular chai, matcha and botanical syrups. For a tea-lovers gift, the Cardamom Rose Garnish will easily delight. 1080 SE CENTENNIAL ST., #2 BEND www.metoliustea.com
ZOOM OUT MYCOLOGY Ever since the documentary Fantastic Fungi came out, mushrooms have only further captivated the culinary sphere. This small woman-led business makes mushroom teas with complementary fruits, herbs and flowers to support holistic health. The mushroominspired teas range from a Reishi Red Mushroom to Maitake Mint Mushroom. Order a sampler pack online and visit the website to find local shops that stock the tea tins. SPRINGFIELD www.zoomoutmycology.com
food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
WINE DINNERS THAT FEEL LIKE A MINI-VACATION NOSTRANA When you’re in the mood for Italy, book a table at Nostrana. Especially for the Regional Dinner Series. These five-course dinners with wine pairings take place around a few intimate tables tucked upstairs in the adjacent wine bar. Recent feasts featured wine and food from Abruzzo, a delicious escape to Veneto with Pra Wines and an evening with Piemontese specialities (think pasta con funghi al forno) paired with Ruggeri Corsini wines. Upcoming winter dinners will whisk guests away to Trentino and Tuscany. 1401 SE MORRISON ST., #101 PORTLAND www.nostrana.com
JOEL PALMER HOUSE At this legacy wine country restaurant in Dayton, you can feast on what makes the Willamette Valley a world-renowned culinary destination, especially when you opt for the five-course Mushroom Madness Menu. Expect earthy flavors in comfort dishes like the Czarnecki family’s threemushroom tart or the hearty beef stroganoff with wild mushrooms. Pinot enthusiasts will appreciate the cellar stocked with classic Oregon wines dating back to 1994. 600 FERRY ST. DAYTON www.joelpalmerhouse.com
CHĒZ Experience the prettiest wine bar on the coast along with a spectacular wine and cheese selection at this women-run spot in Seaside. Owner Destiny Dudley, a former winemaker in the Willamette Valley and certified cheesemonger, brings her friends to the coastal town for monthly winemaker dinners. No matter how wintry it is outside, the dreamy space pops with sunset pink and brings cheer and conviviality to any evening. 719 1ST AVE. SEASIDE www.chezmonger.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Come for the cerulean blue at the new Bar Rio. Quinoa under a fur coat at Rancher Butcher Chef on NW Crossing Drive. Short ribs at Dear Irene, a fantastic new venue on Brooks Street. (photos, clockwise from top: Ben Titus/ABD Creative, Peter Ki, Dear Irene)
Dining
Dining Hot Spots in Bend written by Kerry Newberry AFTER SCHUSSING DOWN the nearby ski slopes, it’s time for a soul-stirring dinner. For this wintry scenario, Bend can’t be beat. Here’s the town’s latest hot spots for the ultimate après-ski feast. For a luxe night out, head to Dear Irene (926 NW Brooks St.; www.dearirenebend.com), beautifully bedecked in gold and jewel tones with a row of luminous chandeliers. Opened by chef Jonny Becklund and his wife, Irene, you’ll find sublime starters like arancini stuffed with Oregon Dungeness crab, an umami-packed grilled cheese with black truffle honey and prawn saganaki. At Bar Rio (915 NW Wall St.; www.barriobend.com), there’s a new concept from longtime restaurateurs Steven and Amy Draheim. In the redesigned bar space, you’ll find interiors in cerulean blue, contemporary pendants and Alhambra-inspired tiles. On the menu, there’s no shortage of festive tapas and cocktails from a zingy shrimp and mango ceviche to spicy chicken shawarma tacos. Pro tip: Bring a crowd of friends so you can order as many plates as possible. And don’t miss savory grab-and-go bites from the adjacent Bodega. Book your reservation early for Rancher Butcher Chef (2838 NW Crossing Dr.; www.rbcbend.com), a sensation since opening in 2022. A modern twist on a butcher shop and restaurant, there’s an exuberant spirit that resonates from the restaurant to the bar—everyone here seems to be celebrating. Expect exceptional meat dishes (sourced from partner Will von Schlegell’s ranches in Klamath Falls). But also standout veg-forward plates from the endive salad studded with pickled beets to the exceptional quinoa under a fur coat. NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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farm to table
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farm to table
Adam McCarthy and his dog, Paddle, stroll through McCarthy Family Farm’s pear orchard near Parkdale.
Farm to Table
Comice, You Are Any way you slice it, Oregon-grown pears are winter’s culinary gems written by Julie Lee photography by Jen Jones I HAVE FOND memories of running through pear orchards in Hood River as a little girl. The sun beaming through leaves, pears getting heavier on branches as the summer played out, eventually falling to the ground if not picked. Boxes of individually wrapped pears would follow orchard visits, delivered to our doorstep decades before Amazon was a thing. My grandfather by a second marriage, Roy Webster, was to me an orchard titan, founding what is now called The Fruit Company in 1942, the year my mom was born. Originally called Webster Orchards, he initiated a mailorder service to send apples and pears to customers all over. The business passed down through generations and expanded when the Diamond Fruit packing warehouse became available. It thrives to this day. Hood River Valley is internationally known for premium pears, a valley robust with farms and farmers, tourism and recreation, and stunningly bordered by the river basin of Hood River, the Columbia River, Mount Hood and the Cascade Range. The only true city in the valley is Hood River, with other unincorporated communities nearby. Rich soil, warm days and cool nights create the trifecta of ideal climate conditions for growing pear trees. The process is long and detailed, starting in spring. Bees help pollinate pear blossoms, and growers thoughtfully thin and prune to ensure each branch produces the biggest pears possible. The action kicks into full gear in summer, as pear branches get full and bountiful, and that’s when the weather watch heightens; weather dictates when it’s optimal to harvest and what type of season the growers will have. Contrary to apples or cherries, pears are purposefully picked before fully mature or ripe. Pears ripen off the tree and from the inside out, and the flavor peaks while still tree-bound; the softening and sweetening comes with ripening after being picked. Growing and harvesting pears requires a rare combination of patience and passion, and Adam McCarthy of McCarthy Family Farm has an abundance of both. “For me personally, it’s about transforming a single orchard block or entire farm into a more productive piece of land (beginning with soil health as the base),” McCarthy said. “Usually NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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Pears at McCarthy Family Farm. FAR LEFT Four generations of pear grower Adam McCarthy’s family have worked on the farm.
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farm to table
when you start improving soil health and nutrient management, other good things follow—healthy trees, strong yield, good fruit size. In agriculture, especially permanent crops like pears—it takes a very long time to see the results of your hard work, usually about ten years in this business. Whether renovating pear orchards or run down pastures—I find it addicting.” Fourth-generation growers, McCarthy’s family started, then lost, the farm during the Depression. “The land left the family for a few decades,” he said, and they moved to Portland. His grandma, with a love for wilderness and outdoors, was itching to get back, and they were eventually able to buy back the land. McCarthy’s path to the farm wound through Sacramento, where he went to school and worked on a cattle ranch. He sold produce in the Bay Area after grad school, but lusted to get back to the outdoors. “I couldn’t sit behind a desk,” he said. “I just couldn’t take it.” A stint as orchard manager with Harry & David gave him a lens of good experience and views from “the corporate perspective,” he said, which “come in handy managing a family business.” When he and his wife, who practices law, moved back to Hood River, their daughter was just three months old. “My dad was ready to step down and hand me the reins,” he said. “He’s done a really good job of stepping aside and letting me make the day-to-day decisions. It’s hard if you don’t have that freedom—I respect my dad for doing it.” McCarthy’s sister lives in Tillamook, and his brother works in finance and assists in the long-term strategy. McCarthy’s kids are also involved in the farm, and when asked if it will eventually become a fifth-generation farm, he laughs saying, “My daughter is competitive. No way she’d let her younger brother take over the business.” Both of McCarthy’s siblings have children as well who are potentially interested in the farming life, which is great with McCarthy—“I’m hoping one of them will want to come back to the farm.” Harvest days start at 4 a.m., and work weeks are seven days long. With 400 acres to manage, various leases to oversee, labor changes and government paperwork, there are a “lot of boxes to check” for McCarthy in a single day. “Farmers like to have boots in the ground,” he said. “I do have to spend a lot of time on these other challenges.” And then there’s the weather. The first thing McCarthy does upon waking is to look at the weather app. “This year we had the shortest season we’ve ever had. A 103-day season,” said McCarthy. “The previous record was 110 days. Fruit size is important. The shorter season means smaller pears.” McCarthy’s farm is one of many in the valley, all with similar challenges as well as triumphs. Jim Morris heads up marketing and communications for Pear Bureau Northwest, established in 1992, operating under the brand name USA Pears. It represents more than 700 growers in Oregon and Washington, producing a whopping 84 percent of the U.S. national crop. The pear is the official state fruit of Oregon, and Morris’ job is to promote pears and increase consumption. He works with retailers as well as influencers across the country and Canada, 32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
Paddle munches on a pear at McCarthy Family Farm.
boosting interest and sales through in-store programs, working with dietitians and developing recipes. He said the biggest story when it comes to pears is that they are fiber rich, delivering 21 percent of needed daily fiber, which is higher than any other fruit. Part of his education process is getting consumers to understand when to eat a perfectly ripened pear. “If you’ve never had a ripe pear,” he said, “you don’t know how truly delicious they can be.” He suggests “check the neck, just below the stem. If it gives with a little pressure by thumb, it’s ready.” Morris finds it rewarding working with so many growers with such diverse backgrounds. He said they’ve “changed my viewpoint on what agriculture is all about. It’s not large conglomerates, but rather small family farms. It’s truly rewarding working with people that care about their land as much as they do. They love that they feed their family with what they grow.” Whether your favorite is Bartletts or Anjous, Comice or Bosc, there is a pear recipe for everyone. Looking for some different ways to enjoy pears this holiday season? Pear Bureau Northwest has you covered! Elevate a whipped ricotta crostini with sliced red Anjou, prosciutto and toasted pine nuts to create a simple winter appetizer to serve all season long. Not a morning person? The Green Anjou Matcha Smoothie may change that for you. While this drink is creamy, smooth and delicious, its true power lies in its nutrition. Green Anjou pears contain vitamin C, providing a boost to start a day off right. Matcha may also ease brain fog—a bonus! And just in time for winter, a scrumptious spicy pear cocktail, elegant to sip fireside!
farm to table
Green Anjou Matcha Smoothie.
Oregon Recipes
Seasonal Pearings Green Anjou Matcha Smoothie Susan Keefe (@rhubandcod) SERVES 2 • 4 green Anjou pears, diced (either peeled or unpeeled for more fiber) • ½ cup Greek vanilla yogurt • ½ cup oat milk (can substitute almond, soy or cow milk)
• 1 teaspoon matcha powder • Sprigs of mint Place all ingredients in a blender and blitz until smooth. Pour the smoothie into two glasses and garnish with additional matcha powder, a pear wedge and a sprig of mint.
Whipped Ricotta Crostini with Pears Marcella Dilonardo (@modestmarce) SERVES 4-6 (ABOUT 24 SLICES)
Pear Bureau Northwest
FOR THE CROSTINI • 1 full crusty baguette, sliced into 1-inch-thick slices • ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
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FOR THE TOPPING • 1 cup full-fat creamy ricotta cheese • 2 teaspoons honey • Kosher salt, to taste • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 1 red Anjou pear, sliced thin • 6 slices thinly carved prosciutto • Fresh basil, to garnish • Toasted pine nuts, to garnish • Red pepper flakes, to garnish • Flaked salt, to garnish
FOR THE CROSTINI Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Arrange baguette slices on two large, rimmed baking sheets. Brush both sides with oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake, rotating sheets halfway through, until golden, 15-20 minutes. If the undersides are not browning, turn the crostini over once during baking. Let cool on baking sheets before topping. FOR THE TOPPING In a food processor, add the ricotta, honey and salt. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Continue mixing until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Transfer mixture to a piping bag and refrigerate until ready to assemble. Just before serving, pipe ricotta onto the baguette crostinis. Top with pear slices and prosciutto. Garnish with basil, pine nuts, red pepper flakes and flaked salt.
Spicy Pear Cocktail.
Spicy Pear Cocktail
Pear Bureau Northwest SERVES 1 • 1/2 ripe pear, cubed • Fresh ginger • Juice from 1/2 a lime • 3/4 ounce honey syrup (3:1 ratio of honey and water) • 11/2 ounces habanero vodka* • Tajín, pinch to go into cocktail, dash to go around the rim of glass Muddle the pear, and add some fresh grated ginger to a cocktail shaker. Add the lime juice, vodka, honey syrup, ice and a dash or two of Tajín, and shake to combine. Rim your glass with lime juice and Tajín. Strain the drink into a glass, and garnish with slices of fresh pear.
Pear Bureau Northwest
*To make habanero vodka, infuse 1 cup of your favorite unflavored vodka with fresh habanero pepper for 30 minutes, then strain.
Pear Almond Torte YIELDS 1 9-INCH CAKE FOR THE PEARS • 11/2 cups Oregon white wine such as pinot gris or sauvignon blanc • 1/2 cup water • 1/2 cup granulated sugar • Juice from 1 lemon • 4 cardamom pods, crushed • 4-5 Oregon Bosc pears (4 if large, 5 if smaller), peeled, cored and halved lengthwise • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
Homegrown Chef
Best when not prepared under pressure, the Pear Almond Torte.
Grow a Pear, Chef written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane “THE PANTRY COOK is a no-show,” the chef called over to me as I arrived to work and was donning my vinyl dishwasher apron. “You’re on salads and desserts tonight. Do a good job and you’ll stay there,” he said, and he handed me a binder with recipes and notes for setting up the pantry station. On the first page, written in crazy bold handwriting akin to a 1970s hostage note, were the words “POACH THE PEARS FIRST … OR ELSE!” “Or else what?” I said to myself as I began the hunt for the ingredients and equipment needed to prepare this sweet seasonal dessert specialty. As I passed the busy cooks working the hot line, I noticed they had used every sauce pan and burner on the stove. I quickly realized what “OR ELSE” meant. I was nervous and sweating as I prepped my station for a fully booked night ahead while waiting for the space and pot to poach the pears. Finally, after a bit of pushing and persuading, the space (and sauce pan that I washed myself ) opened up. The pears were cooked and had cooled down just in time for the first dessert order. Here’s a recipe for a pear almond cake made with poached pears and the incomparable liquid derived from poaching them. Poached pears are great on their own and can simply be served with some good vanilla ice cream. The cake is well worth the time, and the extra poaching liquid can be reduced into a syrup to use for a sauce. 36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
FOR THE CAKE • 11/4 cups all-purpose flour • 3/4 teaspoons baking powder • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 6 tablespoons pear poaching liquid • 1/4 cup buttermilk, at room temperature • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract • 8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature • 1/2 cup granulated sugar • 2 tablespoons almond paste • 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest • 2 large eggs, at room temperature • 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar (optional) • 6 tablespoons sliced almonds, toasted (optional) FOR THE PEARS Use pears that are uniform in size to ensure even doneness. In small saucepan, bring wine, water, sugar, lemon juice and cardamom pods to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium, add pears and simmer, turning occasionally, until pears are just tender, 10 to 12 minutes.
Gently remove pears from heat and cool (in syrup) to room temperature, at least 30 minutes. Remove and discard cardamom pods, then transfer pears to cutting board with slotted spoon. Cut pears crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Reserve the poaching liquid. Brush bottom and sides of 9-inch round cake pan with butter. Arrange pears in decorative pattern on the bottom of the pan. FOR THE CAKE Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350 degrees. In medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt; set aside. Combine cooled poaching liquid, buttermilk and vanilla in a large measuring cup; set aside. In the bowl of an electric stand mixer, beat butter, sugar, almond paste and lemon zest with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Decrease mixer speed to low and add flour mixture in three batches, alternating with liquid mixture, scraping down sides and bottom of bowl with rubber spatula as needed. Increase speed to medium and beat mixture just until combined. Spoon batter over pears and spread evenly. Bake until tester inserted in center of cakes comes out clean, about 30 to 35 minutes, rotating cake halfway through baking. The internal temperature for the cake should be 200 Fahrenheit. Transfer cake to cooling rack and cool in pan 15 minutes, then invert directly onto cooling rack. Cool cake completely, about 1 hour. Dust with optional confectioners’ sugar and toasted almonds.
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home + design
The fine craftsmanship of Perpetually Devastated played out in a 1968 Overlander.
Home + Design
Art and Craft in an Airstream A couple creates one-ofa-kind Airstream interiors in Southern Oregon written by Melissa Dalton
Bethany Williams
WITH A BUSINESS NAME like Perpetually Devastated, Parker Bolden and Bethany Williams are used to explaining the meaning. “We are sensitive people and find the state of our world depressing sometimes,” said Williams. “People hate others just for being different. There’s environmental degradation, extractive capitalism, the list could go on and on. You could just be really sad. It’s all perpetually devastating. And yet, you have to find a way to make yourself happy, to make things just a little bit better if you can.” One of the ways that the two have done that is by renovating Airstream trailers alongside a talented crew at their shop in Southern Oregon.
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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home + design
The Monty Airstream makeover features walls made from curved hickory, a couch that converts to a bed, glass pocket bathroom doors, a dining table made from black walnut and handmade tile in the bathroom.
What began as a summer DIY project in Northern California became a full-time gig in Southern Oregon for Parker Bolden and Bethany Williams of Perpetually Devastated.
Each project starts with a trailer that has solid bones, which they use as a base to rebuild the interior from scratch, from modernizing mechanical systems, to applying artful new finishes. “I personally love that it’s recycling something that would otherwise just sit in disrepair,” said Bolden. “Plus, we’re both Libras, so we like shiny, fancy things,” said Williams. “The shape is aesthetically appealing. It’s Americana. We like to wink at that while also making something that feels custom and new, and entirely hand-built.” Bolden and Williams’ first Airstream overhaul in 2015 was their own, where they were living in Northern California. It was a summer DIY project, so they learned as they went, and upon selling it, their future design-build business was seeded. By 2020, the couple returned to Oregon—he grew up in Gaston and she went to high school in Hermiston—with a purchase of 11 acres between Bandon and Coquille. There, they grow organic vegetables and wildflowers for a CSA, host an off-grid Airbnb/guest cottage, build Airstreams, have an annual music and theater gathering, and keep chickens and goats, about eight of the latter as of last count. “We started with two,” said Williams. “But when you have goats, people suddenly start giving you all their goats.” Airstream clients have been equally forthcoming, often finding them online. While their first project may have been about learning the basics, each one since has become an opportunity for art, craft and experimentation. Take the Monty, a 1968 Overlander they collaborated on with L.A.-based couple Duwayne and Jan Dunham. When Duwayne was filming Homeward Bound: The Incredible Journey, a 1993 Disney classic, he shot in multiple regions of Oregon, including Portland, Smith Rock and Eastern Oregon, the latter passing for the Sierra Nevada. But decades later, there’s more to see: “The main area for us to explore, and why we did this trailer, is the Oregon and Northern California coast,” said Duwayne. He and Perpetually Devastated spent a year discussing inspirations for the project, with the main one becoming an Arts and Crafts-style cabin in the Adirondacks, a style the Dunhams saw and appreciated in a friend’s remodel. To start, the crew anchored the trailer’s 216-square-foot layout with a U-shaped banquette surrounding a table, followed 40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
with a centralized kitchen and a lounge area with a couch that converts into a bed. Duwayne didn’t want the sleeping area sequestered at the back, as can be typical in this Airstream model. “I knew there would be days when Jan and I just want to lay and read, and we’d want to see the rest of the trailer and be part of it,” said Duwayne. The bathroom is tucked at the rear, behind reeded glass pocket doors. Everything inside is custom, handmade or vintage, with Duwayne sourcing a lot of the items alongside the designers. The goal was to foster a lived-in feeling using solid materials that felt good underhand. “The tactile experience is the biggest thing for me,” said Bolden. “As well as getting to interpret what’s feasible inside this space that we’re building.”
Photos: Bethany Williams
home + design
Now, in a pleasing contrast to the shiny exterior, waxed hickory wood wraps the curved walls and forms custom cabinetry. Cork floors and rattan accents add texture, including a clever rattan runner at the ceiling that conceals wiring. The bathroom is ensconced in colorful handmade tile, with a wood mat underfoot in the shower. Vintage items, like the reading sconces, Bakelite knobs and restored 1947 O’Keefe and Merritt stove, add authenticity, as do bespoke touches, like an air distribution box at the ceiling made of wood and rattan. Such custom fixes are the fun of upgrading these trailers, said the couple, since typical home parts aren’t often the right scale (too big), and off-the-shelf components can look generic and plastic.
Bolden loves to dig into such details, and with the crew and lead carpenter Jeffrey Ostercamp, solve creative problems via experimentation. For this project, it was the wrinkled copper countertops, which have a patina that was achieved only after forty days of tests with a custom solution. “Parker is an artisan and craftsman,” said Duwayne. “It was a pleasure working with him because he wasn’t going to give up.” The team also stripped new plumbing fixtures of their original shiny finish, and milled a chunk of black walnut into a live-edge dining tabletop with a rigged-up chainsaw. “We don’t always have the perfect tool, or the time, or the resources, so finding workarounds is a positive thing,” said Williams. “So bust out the chainsaw, put on your safety goggles, and buckle up, you know?” NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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home + design
DIY
WHEN ADAM CRANE and Addie Boswell were installing a new guest bathroom in their Southeast Portland basement, he suggested including a sauna or steam shower, but she wasn’t convinced. “I thought it might not be worth the money and we wouldn’t use it enough,” said Boswell. Then space constraints meant that the bathroom layout couldn’t fit a full bathtub, so Boswell came around to the idea of maximizing the shower’s full potential. This being a part of a bigger bathroom project meant Boswell opted to hire a contractor for much of their custom installation, then completed the tile herself. This project is a hybrid-DIY, meaning it’s recommended to have the plumbing and electrical set up by professionals, but there are prefabricated steam shower kits available at a variety of price points for motivated DIY-ers. After living with their new steam shower for two years, it’s been a pleasant surprise for everyone to learn its pay-offs. A basic session lasts twenty minutes, and the couple uses it a few times a week, especially in the fall and winter. “When we get home cold and wet, or Adam comes home from a race or a long run, we can get a full spa experience in such a short amount of time,” said Boswell. “Then you’re so blissed out afterward.” Here are some steam shower basics: SIZE As far as size goes, it’s a lot of bang for the buck, as a steam shower needs to be big enough for users to sit down inside, but not so big that it takes a ton of electricity to fill it with steam. A lower ceiling of 7-8 feet is also advised. EQUIPMENT A steam shower needs a steam generator, a piece of equipment that can be as small as a bread box. The size of the generator is dictated by the shower enclosure size. 42
Melissa Dalton
Steam Shower
This DIY steam shower is the result of some help from the plumbing and electrical trades with finishing touches by the owners.
Water enters the generator, which heats it to a boil, and then pushes the steam to a disperser inside the shower. The steam generator must be in a spot with access to water supply and electricity, and can be positioned up to 25 feet away from the shower, although it’s better to get it closer. Also, make sure the generator is accessible for future maintenance. MATERIALS The primary concern with steam showers is managing the moisture. If not using a pre-built kit,
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the shower needs to be prepared to be waterproof from the studs out, using concrete backer-board, a waterproof membrane, and tile and grout. Don’t forget to waterproof the ceiling! The glass door will need to create a tight-fitting seal, requiring a professional shower glass dealer for installation. (Keep in mind that after a steam session, the shower interior needs to dry to prevent mildew. This is accomplished by adding a transom over the door, leaving the door open after sessions, or adding radiant heat to the floor.)
home + design
Modern Americana Goods The Lambswool Throw from Rejuvenation is an update on a rec room staple, and we mean that in the best possible way. That’s because the 100-percent wool throw has that traditional plaid pattern and fringe detail that would have appealed to the parents, but its rainbow hues make it a little more Millennial. www.rejuvenation.com
The 1960s IBM Standard Issue Clock was once a ubiquitous feature in schools, offices and warehouses across the country. This newer version is handcrafted in Schoolhouse’s Portland factory, and looks much the same as it always did, thanks to the spun steel case, domed glass lens and sweeping red second hand. Three fresh colors, however, offer a nice twist on the original. www.schoolhouse.com
Talk about recycling. Urban Lumber Co. takes sustainably salvaged trees in the Eugene metro area and turns them into beautiful, one-of-a-kind pieces of furniture. For the Walnut Nesting Table Set, they’ve paired a live-edge black walnut tabletop—traced back to a tree salvaged in the Friendly Street neighborhood of Eugene—with matching bowtie inlays and black steel hairpin legs. www.urbanlumber.shop
What is “Modern Americana”? Look for an answer in the 2021 book of the same name, by Portland interior designer Max Humphrey. Here’s one definition to start us off : “Someone said that interior design is autobiography,” wrote Humphrey. “For me, it’s nostalgia.” www.powells.com NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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artist in residence
Artist in Residence
Light in the Dark Photographer Philip Blair finds solace and beauty in Oregon’s winters written by Daniel O’Neil
Philip Blair
SNOWSTORMS, blinding light, biting cold, freezing fog, emptiness for miles—and Philip Blair feels at peace. Winter echoes in Blair’s innermost self, partly due to his Oregon upbringing, but also because Blair, by nature, finds home in the solitude of the hibernal months. For Blair, winter and Oregon complement each other like black and white in a photo.
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artist in residence A snow squall on Lake Abert in Southern Oregon, captured by Philip Blair.
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artist in residence
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A snow-covered Mount Hood, captured by Philip Blair. A photo by Blair shows a wintry White River Falls in Wasco County. Blair and his Leica are the two elements needed to create these images.
Born and raised in Eugene, Blair grew up fully exposed to the weather of his surroundings. Monthly Boy Scout camping trips accustomed him to the rain, snow, mud and cold of the Cascade Range. In high school, weekends spent working in a Willamette Valley vineyard only reinforced his tolerance and appreciation for the elements. Today, the winter months of his youth stand in the foreground of Blair’s memory. “Winter is what I think about first,” Blair said. “It’s a great time for introversion, self-reflection and personal thought of all kinds. It’s beautiful, bright and quiet, really quiet, which is good for solitary shooting. You come away with thoughtful photographs, more so than in summer because summer is universal. Winter is personal.” Having studied anthropology at the University of Oregon, where his father was a professor, Blair waited decades before 46 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
picking up a camera. Then, suddenly, photography delivered an antidote to the pressures of life and work. Using a digital Leica M camera, best known as a photojournalism tool, Blair refined his documentary landscape photography to the point where he now has a book to his name, Solitude: Snow and Ice, published by Chatwin Books. In Solitude, Blair explains that his photography “concentrates on the beauty of the outdoors as seen through personal prisms of abstract shapes and balanced geometry, assembling life’s confusion, bewilderment and loneliness into harmonic visuals that transmit peace and a sense of presence.” After more than a decade of methodically photographing with a Leica, Blair has processed both his images and his intentions. “I have found that photography is not just about pictures that are universally pleasing. I work more to document mood or
artist in residence
“I have found that photography is not just about pictures that are universally pleasing. I work more to document mood or a sense of presence and place. This work is like capturing pieces of time and experience in a bottle, to keep, or let go upon reflection at a later time.”
Photos: Philip Blair
— Philip Blair, photographer
a sense of presence and place. This work is like capturing pieces of time and experience in a bottle, to keep, or let go upon reflection at a later time,” he wrote. The book visits iconic Oregon landscapes under snow, including Mount Hood and the Columbia River Gorge. But it also detours for a solitary, meditative look at Blair’s ideal photographic setting, the desert in the middle of a harsh winter. “Oregon’s desert has an awkward beauty in the winter,” Blair said. “People think of it as a wasteland, but it’s a special place because you can really dig deep without a lot of effort and feel a real personal attachment to the land, especially if you go solo. It feels like the farther I get out in the desert, the more I feel into my psyche.” Nathan Kellum, Product Communication Specialist for Leica Camera USA, recognizes his friend’s affinity for home. “Phil has
an intrinsic understanding and sensitivity to the Pacific Northwest landscape, which enables him to navigate these often chaotic and challenging environments with ease,” he said. “His attention to detail throughout his photographic process allows him to uncover the many secrets that this bewitching terrain has to offer.” Blair enjoys the long drives required to cover Oregon’s diverse terrain. While on the road, he often thinks about his formative years, those experiences camping and pruning vines in the dreary months. Despite his westside roots, Blair finds all of Oregon familiar territory. This comfort makes his photos more personal. “The concept, the feeling of home is really strong for me,” Blair said. “Because I put so much of my own self into my work, to be in a place like home I’m able to let go and be more open with myself, and to express that. Channeling creativity feels much more natural when I’m home in Oregon.” In college, Blair met a professor, Wesley Hurd, who held weekly gatherings to discuss art and humanity. The two remain friends. Hurd, a painter, sees Blair’s photography through the lens of another genre. “Poetry calls on the deepest inner sanctums of our life to draw out our feelings and observations, and the artful craft of using words to form ideas in fresh, unexpected, and beautiful ways, and I think Phil’s photographs are like that,” Hurd said. “He’s a very sensitive and introspective human being, and his photography deeply envisages that sense of looking inward. You’re looking outward, but you’re also looking inward as you see his work.” Traveling across Oregon in winter, Blair encounters calm and quiet, harmony and meaning, in the landscape and within himself. His photographic pilgrimages reveal Oregon’s, and Blair’s own, true nature. “It’s a tour of home,” he said. “A tour of a very large home.” NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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STARTUP 50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 52 MY WORKSPACE 54 GAME CHANGER 56
pg. 52 Portland-based Trailkeepers of Oregon is responsible for maintaining hundreds of miles of our favorite trails.
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startup
Tracking the Big One New technology and collaboration can bring more accuracy and less anxiety to earthquake events in the Northwest written by Grant Stringer EVERY OREGONIAN KNOWS about The Big One: a massive earthquake expected to someday inflict damage across the Pacific Northwest. There’s widespread anxiety about this looming calamity. But scientists haven’t been able to predict much about it. How strong might the quake be? What parts of the region may be hit hardest? How intensely might tsunamis batter the Pacific coast? 50
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University of Oregon
Cascadia Region Earthquake Science Center director Diego Melgar and Valerie Sahakian, another University of Oregon professor who is co-leading the research team, at work on a device used to map lake beds.
Research on earthquakes tends to focus on the San Andreas Fault in California, which produces regular—and often severe—earthquakes in a heavily populated area. That’s true even though the quieter Cascadia subduction zone off the coast of Oregon is capable of producing much greater devastation. A University of Oregon professor, Diego Melgar, has taken the helm of a new research team seeking answers. In September, Melgar was named director of the Cascadia Region Earthquake Science Center, a collaboration with fifteen other universities including Oregon State University. The research team scored an initial, $15 million grant from the National Science Foundation. Melgar told 1859 that scientists will use machine learning, artificial intelligence and other sophisticated tools to project as best they can what might occur. Meanwhile, they’ll build
startup
The research collaborative will benefit from a rich network of seismology sensors that already exists in the Pacific Northwest. Melgar plans to mine these sensors for data about tiny earthquakes that occur all the time but are too weak to feel, which may provide insight into bigger seismic behavior. Machine learning will come in handy to fish this data out of general geological “noise” that makes it difficult to do so, Melgar said. bridges with local and tribal governments that need information to prepare, while training a new generation of earth scientists in an initiative to diversify the notoriously white field. The Cascadia subduction zone extends more than 600 miles beneath the Pacific Ocean from British Columbia to northern California. There, the Juan de Fuca tectonic plate is slipping beneath the continent of North America. The friction has produced 43 earthquakes in the last 10,000 years, according to Oregon’s emergency planning department. Tribal legends describe a calamity several hundred years ago. Scientists later determined that a magnitude 9.0 quake in 1700 “caused the coastline to drop several feet.” Tsunamis battered the Pacific Northwest but also Japan. Scientists estimate a 37 percent chance of a quake at least 7.0 in magnitude in the next fifty years. Preparing communities for the quake is costly and time-consuming. That’s why everyday people and experts need as much information as possible, Melgar said. For example, the team will analyze whether The Big One would ravage Cascadia east of the Cascade Range and where communities are at risk of landslides. On the coast, they’ll model how far a tsunami might flood inland and help inform the construction of evacuation towers, such as the 50-foot-tall structure built last year by the Shoalwater Bay Indian Tribe in Washington, the first such evacuation tower in the U.S. The research collaborative will benefit from a rich network of seismology sensors that already exists in the Pacific Northwest. Melgar plans to mine these sensors for data about tiny earthquakes that occur all the time but are too weak to feel, which may provide insight into bigger seismic behavior. Machine learning will come in handy to fish this data out of general geological “noise” that makes it difficult to do so, Melgar said. Another priority for the team will be cultivating a new generation of earth scientists. The geosciences, studies of the earth’s interior, oceans and atmosphere, are among the most white scientific disciplines in the U.S., according to The New York Times, and the lack of diversity hurts research.
Melgar identifies as Latino, but he said he’s constantly walking into rooms full of scientists where no one looks like him. He struggled to think of a single Black earth scientist at the professor level in the country. Melgar wants to combat this in a small way by mentoring students in tribal schools, and other schools where most students aren’t white.
A tsunami warning sign on the Oregon Coast. The team’s research will help inform earthquake and tsunami preparedness on the coast and elsewhere.
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Courtesy of Nat Ferraro
what i’m working on
A Trailkeepers of Oregon volunteer at work during a “log-out” at Mount Hood.
Trailkeepers of Oregon The tireless volunteer-powered angels enabling our outdoor recreation written by Grant Stringer HIKE YOUR favorite trail long enough, and you’ll want to hug a tree. But hike a bit farther, and you’ll want to hug the volunteer who built the trail itself. Oregon’s hiking trails span thousands of miles, from the high desert to the Cascades and the coast, often in territory with its fair share of natural disasters, such as mudslides and severe wildfires that leave vast scars of burned and downed trees. Trails also span rural and suburban areas. Along with the labor of building new trail, that means a whole lot of work is needed to provide Oregon’s voracious hikers with enough to explore. That work is performed by an array of groups, but almost always by volunteers. 52 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
A lion’s share of this grueling labor—removing downed trees and hacking steps into earth, for starters—is bit off each year by the Portland-based nonprofit Trailkeepers of Oregon. Staff and volunteers race each summer to take advantage of Oregon’s dry season; last year, the group improved about 535,000 feet of trail by harnessing the power of 3,000 volunteers. This year was no exception, said Nat Ferraro, the nonprofit’s engagement director. The nonprofit averaged about seventy events per month, they said, while “trail ambassadors” took to the wilderness to educate and empower backpackers about backcountry ethics. Ever-focused on the next generation of hikers (is the next Cheryl Strayed among us?), Trailkeepers also threw family-friend events at the Portland Audubon. This was a big summer for trail maintenance, Ferraro said. On rugged Mount Hood, it’s not hard to find a huge tree fallen across the trail. Enter Trailkeepers, who cut and remove trees this year in what’s called a “log-out” operation. In the Columbia River Gorge, volunteers and staff logged out swaths of trail near Horsetail Falls and elsewhere. Farther west, bushes were trimmed on portions of the 400-plus-mile Oregon Coast Trail, which carries ambitious backpackers and day-hikers alike across beaches and high on the region’s iconic capes and buttes. But trails don’t have to snake through some far-flung locale to get Trailkeepers attention. Volunteers also worked at Camp Westwind, a summer camp just north of Lincoln City that is part of the 102,000-acre Cascade Head Biosphere Reserve. It’s critical habitat that includes the Salmon River watershed and estuary and, Trailkeepers writes on its website, the summer camp hosts 1,200 campers each year, plus 1,500 students from around the state in the fall and spring for Oregon’s famed “outdoor school” programs. Plus, in the Portland metro area, Trailkeepers is building new trails at Clackamas County parks. The culture and history of hiking is awash with stories of folks getting lost or out of their depth, which is why it’s important to be educated and prepared. Backpackers near Mount Hood got special treatment when Trailkeepers ambassadors took to the trails to raise awareness about the severe risk of wildfires, which are started often by hikers and campers. Ferraro said that, unfortunately, that work required ambassadors to personally put out some dangerous fires that could have mushroomed into blazes that are at worst impossible to fight, deadly and expensive. Trailkeepers of Oregon also maintains the crown jewel of hiking blogs, www.oregonhikers.org. It’s a forum to trade trail conditions and perhaps even a tall tale or two, and is well-regarded as a rich resource of hiking maps and turn-by-turn directions, which you can filter by dozens of search criteria. For example, a search of backpackable, loop hikes of moderate difficulty that aren’t crowded yields eight hikes in Oregon. Trailkeepers of Oregon is always looking for volunteers and donations. If you’re interested, visit their website, www.trailkeepers oforegon.org.
OCTOBER 21, 2023 – FEBRUARY 11, 2024
highdesertmuseum.org
my workspace
Climbing the Hawsepipe John Ivanoff’s career journey from gillnet fisherman and cook to deck engineer written by Joni Kabana
When the gillnet fishery he was working for failed to produce, Ivanoff found himself out of a job. A friendly bar pilot mentioned that an Alaskan tugboat operation needed a cook and encouraged Ivanoff to apply. Having no crew cooking experience did not stop Ivanoff from showing up, but much to his dismay, the call to cook was a joke and he was sent away on his first day. Ivanoff was devastated, but not for long. One week later, he got the call to “get over here and get to work.” With a Betty Crocker cookbook and his mother’s recipes, Ivanoff launched his tugboat career on the Astoria tugboat in Nome, Alaska, making meals for the crew and eventually working as a deckhand changing oil, splicing lines, observing boats in the wheelhouse with the captain and “cleaning, cleaning, cleaning” and cooking. (A tip from Ivanoff: Don’t ever try to make an angel food cake in a rocking boat. It will collapse.)
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Jeff Daly
Starting his career as a fourth-generation gillnet fisherman when he was a teenager in 1974, John Ivanoff knows a thing or two about deep waters and weather. Today he works as a seasoned deck engineer running pilot transfers in Astoria, but getting from gillnet fisherman to deck engineer was anything but a straight line.
my workspace
Joni Kabana/TravelOregon.com
For many years, Ivanoff “worked his way up the hawsepipe,” building up his seniority instead of going to Maritime School until he was able to apply for his current deck engineer position. Ivanoff works out of the Astoria Pilot House building, transferring river and bar pilots to ships coming and going carrying wheat, grain, corn, potash, containers and cars. And he still can cook a mean salmon dinner.
Ivanoff works seven days on and seven days off. In his spare time, he loves being at his new home he built high on a hill spending time with his wife, Katrina, playing with his dog and participating in an assortment of outdoor activities. And yes, he fishes and cooks up a mighty fine fish fry for friends and family.
Joni Kabana/TravelOregon.com
Ivanoff lives with the understanding that “Mother Nature is in command position,” and he must watch weather patterns and be alert to and guide ships coming into the foul mouth of the Columbia River. It’s his responsibility to ensure a safe transfer of river and bar pilots and execute periodic drills with dummies to ensure he can save a man overboard. He’s happy to report he’s never had to put those skills to test.
If you head to Astoria, you can view the pilot boat activity from several docks. Stop by the Columbia River Maritime Museum to see one of the old pilot boats, or consider taking a tour on another decommissioned pilot boat, the Arrow #2, located at Pier 39.
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game changer
Game Changer
Micro-Financing with Macro Outcomes Via counseling, education and financing, MESO empowers entrepreneurs from communities of color to launch their own success stories written by James Sinks | illustrations by Cate Andrews
ARMED WITH her vision, her artistic flair, her faith, and her irrepressible energy, Ambrosia Johnson turned a parttime jewelry and painting gig into a clothing and accessories boutique specializing in cultural urbanist fashion. “For people who are trying to make a statement while also being stylish,” she said. But at the time, the Gresham woman also didn’t have the benefit of a business background, a benefactor, bookkeeping skills or an understanding of loan financing, and her walk-in boutique went into a hiatus earlier this year. If it’s hard for a woman of color to open a small business in Portland, she said that lack of know-how made hurdles even higher for her The Lamb Boutique (which is short for The Lamb of God). Now Johnson, who turns 37 this month, is brimming with confidence—and new knowledge—thanks to the immersive entrepreneur education she discovered at Micro Enterprise Services of Oregon (MESO), a nonprofit that offers multifaceted help to primarily business startups from Oregon’s communities of color. 56 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
game changer
offices in Beaverton, Gresham, Clackamas County and in the Southern Oregon community of Talent, plus a storefront across the river in Vancouver, Washington. Each month, more 150 people intersect with the nonprofit, and about half of whom sign up for classes or to pursue financing. Can you launch a successful venture without the help of MESO or other small business-focused organizations? Absolutely. But for many people, it can make all the difference, Lewis said. When you put together a piece of store-bought furniture, you can expect lot of parts and screws and it can be frustrating and confusing. Now, imagine doing it without instructions, she said. “There is absolutely an order to do things, and we can show you the steps and which directions to go,” she said. “Being an entrepreneur is not for the weak. It is going to be hard work, and you will put in all of your time. It’s all on you. But we can make it easier.” Johnson said that’s exactly what’s happened as she rethinks her When founded in a Black United Fund pilot project 2005, re- Lamb Boutique. “The community vibe and the connections were wow at sponding to challenges for people in communities of color to obtain mortgages and business financing, the nonprofit was not MESO,” said Johnson, who was recently hired by the nonprofit to help youth entrepreneurs. “I would say it opened initially intended to be a long-term organization. But MORE ONLINE me up exponentially, not just with the resources and those challenges persisted, and so did MESO, which Learn more about connections I have made, but also the education and has grown from those roots in northeast Portland and its programs somebody to physically sit with me, show me, lead me into a statewide service provider that fosters business MESO at www.mesopdx.org and give me options.” ownership in disenfranchised communities, said exFor now, she is selling her services at group painting parties ecutive director Cobi Lewis. “It very quickly grew because this is a market with signifi- and her clothes and accessories at a pop-up stand at various marcant needs,” she said. A former community banker for Umpqua kets. Meanwhile, she is laying the groundwork to open the doors Bank, Lewis calls MESO a hidden gem, a powerhouse, and a at Clackamas Town Center mall, by 2025. She is better prepared than ever, she said. “The education is so empowering.” lifeline for startups. As it has from the beginning, MESO today is focused on helping business visionaries, most of them living below the poverty line, to turn their ideas into reality. The nonprofit lists microbusiness success stories across the state, helping to lay the foundation for restaurants, hair salons, crafters, and even mobile music teachers. Now employing 65 and with an annual budget of about $7 million, MESO offers customized programs from counseling to business education classes to Small Business Administration loan financing. To help clients who need to build or rebuild their creditworthiness, the nonprofit makes “microloans” as small as $100, allowing people to show lenders they can repay their debts. MESO also works with partners including local government agencies to facilitate small business startup grants, and also connects entrepreneurs to state-subsidized matched savings programs known as Individual Development Accounts, which can be targeted for education and business goals. How instrumental has the organization been in fostering resilient businesses? The nonprofit surveyed 150 of its business clients and alumni and found that none of them had shuttered in the pandemic, Lewis said. — Ambrosia Johnson, Micro Enterprise Services In addition to its headquarters complex along Martin Luther of Oregon client and Youth Services Specialist King Jr. Boulevard in Northeast Portland, it now has satellite
“The community vibe and the connections were wow at MESO. I would say it opened me up exponentially, not just with the resources and connections I have made, but also the education and somebody to physically sit with me, show me, lead me and give me options.”
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Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive
(541) 385-3062
When in Ashland for the holidays, let Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine do the cooking. (photo: Neuman Hotel Group)
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New Ways to
Holiday Don’t want to cook this holiday season? Create new traditions instead with these Oregon experiences written by Jean Chen Smith
ne of my favorite holiday memories is the year my husband and I got married and moved into our first home together. It was during the holidays, and we were inundated with boxes of belongings that needed to be sorted through and unpacked. It was a little overwhelming to say the least. Both bogged down with corporate jobs that consumed our days and sometimes nights, there was almost no time to organize our home, much less cook and prepare for the festivities of the season. Both our families were situated far from our new home, so we did not have plans of visiting for Christmas anyway. On the spur of the moment, we decided to take a break from the stress of unpacking and booked a three-day getaway at an adorable bed and breakfast that offered a full holiday dinner. We were able to enjoy a beautifully decorated property and a traditional meal, and even meet the owners and other guests. It was truly one of the best times we have ever had. When we returned refreshed and relaxed, the boxes seemed much less daunting. This year, if you want to skip the process of preparing and cleaning up, and if you are up for doing something unconventional, look no further than our list of some of the best places to spend the holidays.
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BRASADA RANCH | CENTRAL OREGON
For Couples The 2,000-acre luxury resort Brasada Ranch, best known for its family-focused hospitality, recently debuted its Cascade Bungalows, sixteen adults-only accommodations. The private bungalows exude sophisticated elegance with stunning views of the Cascade Range. Rooms are open concept with a spacious sunken living room, fireplace and luxe bathroom with a rainfall shower. Guests have access to their own private patio with a hot tub and outdoor shower. There is also a complimentary in-room breakfast. The property hosts many activities during the winter and holiday season. Take a fitness class at the state-of-the-art fitness center, or book a spa treatment at the top-notch spa, where couples can enjoy a wide variety of services, including massages, facials and salon treatments. Enjoy a horse-drawn wagon
ride, or explore the resort with your own Ranch Rover golf cart. The resort will hold its live Winter Music Series every Friday throughout December. The location is central to other nearby experiences as well. For those who love to ski, there are world-class slopes less than an hour away. Visit downtown Bend, which is about a twenty-fiveminute drive, where you will find lots of retail therapy along with streets lined with holiday decorations. The Ranch House and Range Restaurant & Bar will be serving meals throughout the holiday season and offer a menu led by Chef Karl Holl, best known for his achievements in farmto-table cuisine. For New Year’s Eve, Brasada will host a party in the barn with live music, dancing, food and a midnight champagne toast.
Brasada Ranch House, where haute cuisine and views of the high desert are served together. (photo: Brasada Ranch)
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The stately Palm Court Restaurant at The Benson. The Benson’s annual Gingerbread Masterpiece, a tradition of more than half a century. Consider Higgins in Portland for your next family gathering. (photos, clockwise from top: Kip Beelman/ The Benson Portland, The Benson Portland, Higgins)
THE BENSON | PORTLAND
For Pet Parents For an urban holiday adventure with your beloved hound, look no further than The Benson Portland, which is a gorgeous historic hotel in the heart of downtown. Part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, the hotel recently completed a multi-million-dollar renovation, spanning the palatial lobby, restaurant, fitness facilities and guest rooms. Updated accommodations are outfitted with furniture from Milan and feature marble floors and spacious bathrooms. The hotel is pet-friendly and welcomes them with customized gifts such as treats and a snuggly pet bed. The Benson allows two pets in select rooms for a fee of $40 per visit.
The hotel’s legendary Gingerbread Masterpiece, a fifty-one-year tradition, will be on display and will take your breath away. Each year features a different theme, and in 2022 it was a majestic replica of Multnomah Falls, using 150 pounds of homemade gingerbread, 50 pounds of marzipan, approximately 20 pounds of chocolate and more than 10 pounds of Rice Krispies. To support the local community, the hotel is collecting donations of new and unwrapped toys for the Fox 12 Les Schwab Tire Centers Toy Drive. Toys can be dropped off at the hotel lobby through December 15. The Benson’s Palm Court Restaurant, with food executed by El Gaucho, will be open on Christmas day, offering a
festive menu for both hotel guests and non-guests. Best known for its steakhouse classics such as steak Diane and A5 Miyazaki Wagyu New York, it will also offer some holiday favorites, along with a children’s menu. Higgins restaurant, a Portland staple in farm-to-table fare, is offering a traditional Thanksgiving prix fixe menu at $85 per person and $50 for children. For those who want to celebrate, but forgo the work at home, this is an excellent family-style option. The restaurant will be open from 1 to 8 p.m. and is taking reservations. In December, it will feature a New Orleans Réveillon menu with a southern twist on classic holiday dishes.
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While in the Willamette National Forest, book a guided snowshoe to Oregon’s second-highest waterfall, Salt Creek Falls. (photo: Samantha Inouye/ Eugene, Cascades & Coast)
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WESTFIR LODGE & MOUNTAIN MARKET | WESTFIR
For Friends
The historic Westfir Lodge & Mountain Market sits in the center of the Willamette National Forest, with easy access to hiking, biking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. In warmer weather, it is a hub for mountain cyclists and rafting. Built in 1925, the beautifully maintained property offers nine rooms updated with modern amenities. Perfect for friends-giving gatherings, each accommodation offers privacy and space to lounge and relax. The large great room is an ideal setting for cozy nights spent around the authentic wood stove, playing games, telling holiday stories and reflecting on the year ahead. Westfir wins for its central location to many activities and attractions. It is
FROM TOP In the Willamette National Forest, Westfir Lodge puts the outdoors into your holidays. Offerings at Mountain Market at Westfir Lodge. (photos: Westfir Lodge)
about an hour drive from Eugene, and within an hour of some good Cascade skiing. This winter, the Willamette Pass shuttle will run from Westfir Lodge to Willamette Pass ski resort, making it convenient for overnight guests. The shuttle is free for guests staying at the lodge and $20 per person for the public.
Book a Willamette Pass snowshoeing tour through Cascades Outdoor Center, where your expert guide will lead you on a hike to view two waterfalls. Or consider an evening stargazing snowshoe tour, where you will be provided with the necessary equipment and led to a viewing area to be rewarded with beautiful views and hot chocolate. From November 25 through December 31, the Willamette Valley Visitors Association is hosting its annual holiday hunt for ornaments in the Willamette National Forest. Hundreds of ornaments will be hidden along trails for guests to find. It is a fun and festive event that gets people outside and moving.
The historic Westfir Lodge & Mountain Market sits in the center of the Willamette National Forest, with easy access to hiking, biking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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FROM TOP Roll along the Columbia River at Columbia Cliff Villas. Hood River dresses up nicely for the holidays. (photos, from top: Columbia Cliff Villas, Visit Hood River)
COLUMBIA CLIFF VILLAS | HOOD RIVER
For Families Hood River is a great location as your home base because it is within an hour of Portland International Airport and has a host of activities for all members of the family. It can be challenging to find accommodations big enough for larger families, so Columbia Cliff Villas is the perfect space because of its spacious one-, two- and three-bedroom suites. Each of the suites offers a full kitchen, separate bedrooms and living rooms, along with a formal dining area for those holiday meals, whether you are cooking or ordering takeout. The hotel is within minutes of Hood River’s historic downtown, brimming with boutiques and eateries. Because you are in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge, there is also plenty of hiking, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing
and access to hot springs. Every winter, the town hosts an annual holiday parade and tree-lighting ceremony. Book reservations at Votum Restaurant, known for its fine-dining experience, using high-quality and local ingredients whenever possible. It is offering an upscale holiday buffet with seafood and prime beef the week of Christmas (December 21-25). Dinner service begins at 4:30 p.m. and is $95 per person. To ring in 2024, Votum is offering a curated ten-course tasting menu on New Year’s Eve. Some highlights include A5 Wagyu, caviar, white truffle and champagne pairings. Two seatings are available at 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. The cost is $350 and an additional $125 for an optional wine pairing.
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More Picks for Holiday Getaways ASHLAND
Head to Ashland to celebrate the season’s festivities. During the holidays, the downtown is transformed into a winter wonderland, with streets aglow in twinkling lights. Starting November 25, the town has nearly daily events to celebrate the season. Whether it is caroling, attending the annual tree lighting or catching an Oregon Shakespeare Festival performance, holiday cheer is all around. Stay at the historic and elegant Ashland Springs Hotel, home of Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine, an award-winning restaurant plating New American dishes with a twist. Decadent desserts will win even the most discerning over in a heartbeat. There are tons of shops for those searching for last-minute gifts. Head to the charming TreeHouse bookstore, which has a good selection of new authors in addition to notable classics. Visit Branson’s Chocolates for small-batch sweets and treats and Heart & Hands, which has been in business for more than twenty-six years and carries one-of-a-kind jewelry and accessories. The Ashland Rotary Centennial Ice Rink provides fun and laughter for adults and kids of all ages. Break out the skates and try your balance on the ice. The Havurah Synagogue hosts Hanukkah Fest on December 10, a celebration that includes menorah making, a concert, storytelling time and homemade potato latkes for sale.
INDEPENDENCE
Less than two hours from Portland is the quaint town of Independence, which stretches fewer than 3 square miles and exudes small-town charm. Once known as the epicenter of the booming hops industry from the early 1800s until the 1940s, it is now brimming with antique shops, restaurants and a picturesque main street. Check in at The Independence hotel, which opened in 2019. The boutique hotel sits along the Willamette River, offering modern and spacious rooms along the riverfront. Artwork by local artists is featured inside the rooms and hallways. Reeve Carter, who works at the hotel’s restaurant Territory, sells his handmade cutting boards and bowls, which make perfect gifts, right in the hotel’s lobby. The city of Independence lights up Riverview Park with the town’s annual holiday light display. For a festive brunch, head to Jubilee, a cheerful establishment that serves everything
Ashland Springs Hotel is a majestic getaway in temperate Southern Oregon. (photo: Ashland Springs Hotel)
from eggs Benedict and tiramisu to champagne and mocktails, located right on main street. They also allow well-behaved dogs to dine with their owners. Thinking about a nontraditional holiday dinner? Kin Dee Thai Eatery, located in Monmouth, is a nine-minute drive from The Independence hotel. The small restaurant serves traditional Thai cuisine, using fresh ingredients. Kin Dee translates to “eat well” in Thai, and owner Vichuda Stine is eager to help with recommendations on the most popular fare. Territory restaurant at The Independence will offer a classic Thanksgiving sit-down meal, which includes a turkey-carving station, prime rib, mashed potatoes, savory stuffing, cranberry sauce and fresh baked pies. The weekend after turkey day, wineries in Willamette Valley kick off the holiday season with a range of holiday events such as wine tastings, food pairings and opportunities to shop for local gifts.
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Logs and forest define Oregon’s westside, which provides 90 percent of the state’s timber harvest, mostly from private lands.
THE STATE
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WHY IT MATTERS WHO OWNS OREGON’S FORESTS written and photographed by Daniel O’Neil
OF TIMBER
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ATOP THE CAPITOL BUILDING IN SALEM STANDS A GILDED PIONEER, AXE IN HAND, HIS GAZE POINTED TOWARD THE COAST RANGE. NATURALLY ONE OF THE WORLD’S PREMIER REGIONS FOR GROWING HIGH-QUALITY TREES, OREGON OWES MUCH OF ITS EXISTENCE TO FORESTS. ECOLOGICAL, SCENIC AND RECREATIONAL VALUES DERIVE FROM OREGON’S EMERALD LANDSCAPE, BUT FORESTRY HAS LONG HELD SWAY OVER THESE WOODS. LIKE A SPRINGBOARD NOTCH IN AN OLDGROWTH STUMP, LOGGING LIES CARVED INTO THE STATE’S BACKBONE. Forests cover half of Oregon, the nation’s top producer of softwood lumber, plywood and engineered wood products. Most of this forestland stretches between the Pacific Ocean and the Cascade Crest, where the state tree, Douglas fir, dominates. Other industries now outshadow timber in Oregon’s economy, but in a state with nearly 30 million acres of trees, the forest here still carries its weight in gold. It’s considered, and discussed, like a cash crop. Oregon’s forest sector produces about 3.8 billion board feet of wood each year, adds $8 billion annually to the state’s gross domestic product, and employs some 60,000 people. Forestland owners form a motley group: governments, newcomers, restructured old dynasties, nonprofits, entire communities, small and large families, and Oregon’s first peoples, for instance. How they manage their land depends on their needs and values. This ownership matrix holds implications because in Oregon the use of a forest affects forest-dependent communities and Oregonians as a whole. But it also often influences the success of pension plans and Wall Street investments. Forest ownership carries the burden of prioritizing management outcomes that reach from habitat to carbon storage to income, and whether or not to involve local decision-making. Which owners uphold Oregon’s best interests depends on who you talk to.
T
HE STATE of Oregon, its counties and municipalities own only 4 percent of Oregon’s forestland. The federal government owns almost twothirds of Oregon’s forests, and it once provided the majority of Oregon’s timber. But passage of
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the Northwest Forest Plan in the early 1990s halted recordlevel harvests on federally owned lands in Oregon, slashing production by 90 percent. Dan Shively, the Forest Service’s Pacific Northwest Region natural resources director, considers his agency a community-based land management organization now. With its focus mostly off of timber, the Forest Service works with private, tribal and other public forestland owners to apply new approaches across federal lands in Oregon. “We’re bringing stakeholders in these settings together to have a voice in helping shape management of our National Forests,” Shively said. “Partnerships and collaboration are vital to our collective success. Our best examples are where we have put in the time and we’ve nurtured these collaboratives.” After the Forest Service cutbacks, large private forestland owners filled the void. Private forestry in Oregon is largely a numbers game. Private interests own 34 percent of Oregon’s forest but provide three-quarters of the state’s timber. Ninety percent of Oregon’s timber harvest comes from counties on the west side of the Cascades. And in Western Oregon, the ten largest private owners control 80 percent of the timberland. Some are still family-owned, but most are investment firms or the timber management arms of insurance companies and pension funds. Environmentalists and industrial “Big Timber” have fought for generations, but in the early 1990s a storm of ownership changes blew through the timber industry. An adjustment to the Real Estate Investment Trust (REIT) rules allowed indexed companies to classify as REITs and thereby shred their tax obligations. REITs pay no corporate earnings or capital gains taxes—their shareholders do when they sell stock.
Oregon’s largest forest products companies began selling forestland, mills and other assets as they reincarnated as REITs. Coincidentally, an economic boom attracted new investment to Oregon. Forests provide, among other things, regular cash flow, a reduced tax burden and hedging against inflation, making timberland a calculated choice for growing wealth. In the frenzy of corporate restructuring, Timberland Investment Management Organizations (TIMOs) bought land for their clients and began to manage it for revenue. By the early 2000s, the majority of Oregon’s private forestland ownership had shifted to REITs and TIMOs. The new ownership represented pension plans, mutual funds, insurance companies, endowments, foundations, wealthy individuals and retired teachers, from across the United States and the globe. To meet the required returns, these investment groups have had to manage their forests in a way that some say demands too much from the land.
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F OREGON has an epicenter for investment forestry, it’s the Coast Range, where vast expanses of private timberland are punctuated by relatively small state and national forests. Chuck Willer, co-director of the Coast Range Association, a nonprofit founded in 1991 to defend Western Oregon’s forests and communities, challenges the ownership regime found here. “The management of our industrial private forest is financial, and financial management has a certain mandate,” Willer said. That mandate prioritizes return on capital and results in intensive forest management, meaning clearcut harvest, short rotation times between harvests, the use of herbicides and monoculture replanting. Willer calls it Wall Street forestry. “They grow money. They don’t grow forests.” Willer cites the damage to wildlife, streams, salmon, drinking water, entire ecosystems, the climate and timber communities as consequences of investor ownership of Oregon’s forests. But for each of Willer’s arguments, the timber industry has a counterpoint. “It’s hard to make a broad statement about ownership and relate it to management activities,” said Sara Duncan, director of communications for the Oregon Forest Industries Council, a trade association representing large private timberland owners. “Every member of ours has its own approach regardless of if they’re family-owned, REIT or TIMO. And even if those owners decide to just operate at the Forest Practices Act baseline, that is already doing a spectacular job of protecting clean water, clean air, wildlife habitat, et cetera.” (Oregon’s Forest Practices Act, created in 1971 as a set of regulations for forestry practices, was the nation’s first. It sets the minimum standards for logging in Oregon and requires, for example, replanting after harvest.) Willer disagrees with the tax treatment for REITs and TIMOs, especially at the state level where a quasi-total decline in the harvest tax now starves Western Oregon’s timber-producing counties. Like other critics, Willer believes
BY THE NUMBERS Average board feet produced in Oregon each year (according to 2017-2021 data):
3.8 BILLION Oregon Forestland Ownership
2% 12% 22%
60%
4%
Federal
Large Private Owners
State/County/ Municipal Tribal
(5,000 or more acres)
Small Private Owners (Fewer than 5,000 acres)
Percent of timber production in Oregon by ownership (in 2020): LARGE PRIVATE OWNERS (5,000 OR MORE ACRES)
65% FEDERAL
14% SMALL PRIVATE OWNERS (FEWER THAN 5,000 ACRES)
11%
STATE/COUNTY/ MUNICIPAL
10% TRIBAL
<1%
Timber production in Oregon by location: WESTSIDE
EASTSIDE
90% 10% NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 71 Source: Oregon Forest Resources Institute
More than anywhere in the state, Oregon’s “working” forests grow in the Coast Range, where intensive logging remains the norm.
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the separation of anonymous shareholders from the lands that grow the trees permits a desecration of Oregon’s verdant westside. “Some outfits that have moved into Oregon’s forests are just timber investment firms who solicit money from rich qualified investors, or they’re timber management organizations that get money from the large Wall Street financial outfits like Blackrock,” Willer said. “In the past, the Weyerhaeuser family was involved in the company. It had some sort of a human dimension to it. That all changed with the transition to financial forest management.” Duncan views things differently. “A significant number of Oregonians are investing in these companies as well,” she said. “And just because the ownership changes hands doesn’t mean that the foresters change hands.” Duncan points to the employment opportunities and above-average salaries in rural counties where the timber industry still supports timberproud communities. Despite their opposition, both sides share some common interests, like keeping the forest intact and undeveloped. Existential threats that ignore property lines, like climate change and wildfire, are meanwhile galvanizing all of Oregon’s timber industry. More middle ground exists in these dark woods. Objective observers like Dr. Kate Anderson can see it. A senior researcher at the independent, nonprofit Sightline Institute, Anderson analyzes Oregon’s forestry ownership through a wider lens. “When you have securitized production, the owners are often non-local investors and people saving for retirement,” Anderson said. “They may not even know they own any Weyerhaeuser or Hancock/Manulife shares and often don’t have a lot of understanding or interest in the day-to-day workings of forest management. So you end up with different management incentives and a different emotional, human relationship to production.” Anderson points out that California has very few REITs and TIMOs in forestland ownership. For decades California’s forestry laws have remained stricter than Oregon’s, preventing the high-intensity, short-rotation logging that generates quick returns on investment. Oregon’s recent Private Forest Accord will bolster forestry laws, but it was not meant to evict its co-signers, the investment timber industry. Some financial outfits, like Portland-based EFM, set their sights on investment forestry that values the land and local communities as much as the timber it regularly, carefully harvests. The emerging carbon storage market proves another alternative method of cashing in on trees’ potential. “Some securitized companies do a better job managing their forests,” Anderson said. “When owners are embedded in their communities, are accountable to their workers and to future generations, and don’t have short-term pressures that determine their professional success, they have a different set of incentives.” NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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Wood chips pile up before being loaded on a ship in North Bend. Nearly 75 percent of all wood products made in Oregon find markets outside the state.
Diagrams drawn by small forestland owner Peter Hayes demonstrate alternatives to clearcutting. His family values holistic forestry that cuts trees in patchworks, thus preserving an intact forest.
S
OME SAY those who work in the forest, with their hands on furrowed bark and trusted chainsaw, know the forest best. In the case of Peter Hayes, that might be true. Hayes’ family has worked with forests and sawmilling since the 1840s. Today they own 1,000 acres of forest west of Forest Grove. Hayes is a problem solver by nature. As a small forestland owner, he uses his forests to explore positive paths forward. His family’s forests provide experimental venues for maintaining common forestry’s strengths and for testing and accelerating necessary innovations. Small owners come in myriad forms, with objectives from maximizing wood production to maximizing ecological value. Hayes manages his forest for the entire spectrum, applying a holistic view that values ecology and community as much as timber. He works neither in clearcuts nor in rotations. From 2007 to 2011, Hayes served on the Oregon Board of Forestry. In his opinion, the average Oregonian has too little understanding of and connection to forestry. “Looking at Coast Range clearcuts, Oregonians often indignantly ask, ‘How could they do that?’ The better question is, ‘How couldn’t those owners do that?’ They’re operating within a set of economic drivers that leave them with essentially no alternative. It’s basically modern capitalism written out across the landscape.” Private forestland ownership in Oregon could benefit from a modernized perspective and some upgraded policies, markets and strategies, Hayes suggests. Examples include using economic incentives like taxing land according to its carbon storage, or marketing Oregon’s wood products for their quality rather than quantity. “In my experience, many of the industrial owners would like to manage for a wider range of values, but we need to create systems that would help them do that,” Hayes said.
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Oregonians want a lot from forests: lumber, drinking water, wildlife, recreation, carbon storage. But only wood is meaningfully priced in today’s markets, so forestland owners understandably maximize what they are paid for, Hayes believes. Because no one owns the air, water or animals that inhabit the woods, Hayes argues that these commonly owned values deserve recognition alongside the dollar value of trees. He would like to see Oregonians accept the responsibility for improved monitoring, protection and restoration of those common values, and become better at asking what the forest demands of them. “We need to transition from this frontier-pioneer mentality, where we draw wealth from the land but without enough commitment to reciprocity, to a long-term settled citizen mentality, which means you have to take more
responsibility for caring for the land and for human communities,” Hayes said.
I
N A STATE with as much forestland as Oregon, ownership types continue to evolve. REITs and TIMOs revolutionized profit-based “Big Timber” several decades ago. Today, land trusts and community forests are finding new options for growing and cutting trees, for conservation, and for local ownership. Land Trusts care for 300,000 acres of protected land in Oregon. The Columbia Land Trust, a nonprofit, owns or stewards 37,000 acres in Oregon and Washington. Management of each site depends on the objectives for that forest. Some they cut, using ecological forestry practices, and some they protect as critical habitat or for carbon storage.
Using transactional rather than regulatory means, land trusts leverage grant money to either purchase land outright or to buy a conservation easement on working timberland, such as the timber rights in a riparian buffer or the rights to develop a parcel. Unable to compete financially with REITs and TIMOs, land trusts instead collaborate with them to acquire properties of key ecological importance. “We negotiate our way to something so there’s a win-win on each side,” said Cherie Kearney, forest conservation director for the Columbia Land Trust, where she has worked for the past twenty-five years. “Each party has to compromise. Maybe we see more trees cut, but it doesn’t convert and the forest is not lost to development.” Over the last decade, community forests have expanded across the state. Today they account for nearly 20,000 acres in NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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“TRIBES DON’T SIMPLY UPROOT AND SHIFT THEIR CULTURE. THEY BEAR THE LASTING CONSEQUENCES OF THEIR LAND MANAGEMENT DECISIONS. THE CHOICES THEY MAKE TODAY LAY THE FOUNDATION FOR THE ACTIONS TO BE TAKEN SEVEN GENERATIONS FROM NOW.” — Jason Robison, land and resources officer for the Cow Creek Band of Umpqua Tribe of Indians and Intertribal Timber Council board member Oregon. Like land trusts, community forests protect drinking water and recreation access, preserve habitat, capture carbon and provide ecologically sourced timber. Purchased and managed by a community, the community forest serves local priorities first. “It’s a good example of managing for a holistic suite of values,” said Dylan Kruse, vice president of Sustainable Northwest, a nonprofit that advises on Oregon forestry issues, including community forests. “Community forestry shows how we can get something for everyone. I think we are seeing a trend here in the Pacific Northwest where forest-dependent communities are interested in keeping those forests within local ownership and retaining that decision-making structure for those resources that are important to them.” Industrial timberland owners have largely cooperated with the community forest movement because they recognize that certain parcels carry intrinsic local significance. For example, Arch Cape, on the north Oregon Coast, recently secured its drinking water source with the creation of the Arch Cape Community Forest, a collaboration between local stakeholders of many sorts. “It matters who owns and has governance over the land,” Kearney said. “Land trusts want to keep ownership closer to home because, by and large, where community and land are connected, the land ends up better cared for.”
T
HE LAST two centuries in Oregon have yielded a variety of forestland owners. Throughout that time, and certainly before it, a deeper way of relating to the woods has endured. Tribal forestry today finds balance in modern forestry while maintaining a traditional respect for the land. Tribal ownership represents only 2 percent of Oregon’s forestland, but its influence on other timber stakeholders in the state is growing. Jason Robison serves as the land
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and resources officer for the Cow Creek Band of Umpqua Tribe of Indians and serves on the board of the Intertribal Timber Council. Robison doesn’t denounce investment forestry. But he does highlight the profound connection that tribes maintain with their local land and resources, a contrast to outside investors primarily driven by economic gains. “Tribes don’t simply uproot and shift their culture,” Robison said. “They bear the lasting consequences of their land management decisions. The choices they make today lay the foundation for the actions to be taken seven generations from now. Tribes are truly committed for the long haul.” Robison expresses concerns over the common fifteen- to twenty-year ownership turnover rate typical of many industrial timberlands. The Cow Creek Band of Umpqua Tribe of Indians has procured lands from these larger forestland owners for tribal use. Robison points out, however, that the costs of rehabilitating lands after intensive management can be significant, posing challenges to some of the tribe’s aspirations. “The cumulative effect of that land changing hands is hard to quantify, but it’s there, it’s real,” Robison said. “And it’s different when you have a long-term manager that’s local, whether it’s the small woodland owner, whether it’s the family wood farm, or whether it’s a tribe. They’re physically present, they’re connected to that land, and they’ve been ingrained in that community.” Each tribe has its own approach to forestry, but key values guide the way: ecological, cultural and economic. While timber production serves as a financial cornerstone for the tribe, it’s not their sole focus. The health of fish and wildlife habitats, carbon sequestration through extended rotations, and the preservation of traditional food-gathering and sacred areas are of paramount importance. Robison sees partnerships with philanthropic organizations and like-minded private equity groups as a way to “level the playing field” and bring more lands back into tribal ownership. Land trusts, community forests, other private owners and government agencies have already begun working with tribes to manage Oregon’s forests. In the Umpqua National Forest, the U.S. Forest Service has a co-stewardship agreement with the Cow Creek Band of Umpqua Tribe of Indians on a hazardous fuels reduction project to help prevent future large-scale wildfires. Robison appreciates the potential this offers for all Oregonians. “Those jurisdictional boundaries start to gray a little bit when we start working together for more healthy and resilient forests.” As Oregon’s forestland ownership evolves, old biases fade and new alliances emerge. Public, private and tribal stakeholders are finding common ground. In the end, Oregon’s forests belong to those who live with the trees that made, and make, the state. Who formally owns those forests, and how they use them, depends on the will and priorities of Oregonians, the state’s shareholders.
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Darcie Jean, In Bloom, acrylic on canvas
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Anna Tooze, End of Summer Peaches, acrylic on canvas
ARTS ON THE
COAST
MODERN VILLA GALLERY & STORMY WEATHER ARTS FESTIVAL written by Kerry Newberry EVERY NOVEMBER, the artsy town of Cannon Beach hosts its Stormy Weather Arts Festival. The annual celebration offers musical performances and gallery events with the opportunity to meet renowned artists. It’s the start of winter on the Oregon Coast, which is the ideal time to hunker down in art galleries, scoping out the range of original and collectible artwork on display and to meet the town’s gallerists. Since 2004, Molly Marshall and her artist husband, David Jonathan Marshall, have owned and operated Modern Villa, a contemporary art gallery just a short walk away from the town’s iconic Haystack Rock. “I call us a ‘city gallery’ at the beach,” Molly said. “Because we showcase a small and curated collection of global talent.” She currently represents several artists including Sarah Goodnough, Micah Crandall-Bear, Anne Packard, Tom Henderson, David Wight, Anna Tooze, Darcie Jean, Catherine Labonté and David Jonathan Marshall. “We focus on original paintings in a variety of mediums and original glass works,” she said. “Some of our highlights that I personally love include expressionist lifestyle, landscapes, cityscapes, seascapes and the new popular tablescapes.” Explore more at Modern Villa (224 N. Hemlock St., #6, Cannon Beach) and www.modernvillagallery.com.
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Sarah Goodnough, Being Contribution, acrylic on canvas
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Catherine Labonté, When Pigs Fly, sculpture, blown glass, kiln cast glass, lamp working glass and wood
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David Jonathan Marshall, Beach Bound II, oil on canvas
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Micah Crandall-Bear, Drishti Study, acrylic on canvas
Tom Henderson, View of the Valley, oil on canvas board NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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ADVENTURE 88 LODGING 90 TRIP PLANNER 92 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 98
pg. 98 Whistler, B.C., is as much about food as its snow and snowsports.
Andrew Strain/Destination BC
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 86
travel spotlight
Of Portuguese heritage, St. Peter’s Church in Echo is slowly being restored.
Preserving Heritage The rally to restore a historic church IF YOU FIND yourself traveling along Oregon’s Interstate 84, consider taking a short side trip to the small historical town of Echo, 8 miles south of Hermiston and 20 miles east of Pendleton. Set amid gorgeous rolling hills on the banks of the Umatilla River, Echo takes you way back in time. You can sip wine at either Echo Ridge Cellars or the Sno Road Winery, take a jitter juice or lunch break in the family operated H&P Cafe or peruse any of the small yet highly fascinating museums. There are seven buildings that are registered with the National Register of Historic Places, so simply strolling the town’s streets is a history lesson in and of itself. The real treasure of this town is tucked away on a lot that, despite facing three major floods in the last century, has never been flooded. Townspeople are baffled by this feat, calling the lot “an island.” On this seemingly sacred piece of land sits the old St. Peter’s Catholic Church, built by Portuguese settlers in 1913. The facade is made from a unique stucco material, and the architectural design is ornate. Inside, one can see intricate statues and a faux marble altar. Sacred garments worn by priests in the 1930s and 1950s have been preserved and are available for viewing. The Echo Heritage Association has taken on the delicate and arduous task of restoring the church and little by little they are making headway toward renovations that will ensure the building is not lost to the elements. Michael Duffy, president of the Echo Heritage Association, welcomes visitors, many of whom say things such as, “What a travesty. Let’s do something!” after seeing the extraordinary workmanship attributed to this structure. Each year, Echo’s Oktoberfest designates funds toward the restoration project, and many locals pitch in with time and money. Many Portuguese descendants still live in the area and have passed down stories about the old church. There has never been plumbing in the church, but many people recall using the neighbor’s facilities “since she was a dedicated parishioner.” See more information at www.echoheritage.org and www.echo-oregon.com. Call ahead if you’d like to see the interior and artifacts of the church.
Gary L. West
written by Joni Kabana
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Glide Through Winter Outdoor ice skating in Oregon’s wonderland written by Jen Sotolongo
THERE’S SOMETHING MAGICAL about the crisp winter air, the sound of blades cutting through the ice, and the breathtaking scenery that surrounds you as you glide gracefully on a frozen surface on ice skates. Throughout Oregon, several seasonal outdoor ice skating rinks offer a unique way to embrace the winter season. Whether you’re an avid skater or just looking for a fun winter activity, lace up those skates and check out these Oregon ice rinks for a magical winter experience. 88
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CENTRAL OREGON With its snow-draped mountain landscapes, Central Oregon is an ideal playground for outdoor ice skating. With several seasonal outdoor options from Bend to Sunriver and Redmond, the region offers a range of options to embrace the joy of ice skating amid stunning natural beauty. SUNRIVER
Sunriver Ice Skating Rink The Village at Sunriver hosts an outdoor ice skating rink during the winter season, from November to April. This charming rink provides a festive atmosphere with holiday lights and music, making it a great place for visitors to enjoy skating while surrounded by the beautiful scenery of Sunriver. Rentals available on-site.
Bend Park & Recreation District
Kamrin Nielsen/Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau
adventure
AT LEFT The Sunriver skating rink is small but fun, in the middle of Sunriver shops. (photo: Tyler Roemer/Sunriver Resort) ABOVE, FROM LEFT The Pavilion in Bend provides a covered outdoor experience. Klamath Falls’ Bill Collier Ice Arena is home to recreational skating and hockey league play.
BEND
The Pavilion This indoor facility boasts an NHL-sized rink right in the heart of Bend that welcomes skaters of all levels. Open yearround, the rink offers ice skating lessons, open skate, tot-hour and family skate sessions. No need to worry about equipment— The Pavilion offers on-site skate rentals. BEND
Seventh Mountain Resort Ice Skating Rink Seventh Mountain Resort in Bend offers an outdoor ice skating rink during the winter months. Located off of Century Drive en route to Bachelor and the cross-country ski areas, this rink offers a picturesque setting to enjoy skating amid the snowcovered landscapes of Central Oregon. The rink typically opens during the winter season, but be sure to check with the resort for specific dates and hours of operation. REDMOND
Redmond Ice Skating Rink The City of Redmond and the Redmond Area Park and Recreation District team up to create a winter wonderland near Centennial Park in town. This portable ice skating rink is typically open from late November to late February and offers affordable entertainment for all skill levels. Skate rentals start at $5, and families of six from the same household can go for a steal at $15. Additionally, the rink offers free skating hours each week to ensure everyone can join in the frosty fun.
SOUTHERN OREGON Southern Oregon’s seasonal outdoor ice skating rinks offer a delightful way to celebrate the winter season. ASHLAND
Ashland Rotary Centennial Ice Rink Open during the winter season, the Ashland ice skating rink is an integral part of the town’s Winter Festival, adding to the festive atmosphere that envelops this charming community. Located in Lithia Park right in downtown Ashland, the outdoor rink offers a variety of programs for ice skating including, adult hockey skate, group skating lessons, and open skate. In addition to the ice skating rink, the Winter Festival also offers a variety of other seasonal activities and events, including the Festival of Light and the Winter SoundWalk. KLAMATH FALLS
Klamath Ice Sports Located on the enchanting campus of the Running Y Resort, the Olympic-sized Bill Collier Ice Arena offers a delightful winter experience, typically operating from late November until late February. From family skate nights to ice skating lessons and drop-in hockey, there’s something to appeal to everyone. Be sure to dress appropriately for outdoor activities, especially if you skate in the evening when temperatures drop. Before planning your visit, check with each location for the most up-to-date information on skating hours, rentals, and any seasonal events. NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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Photos: The Ritz-Carlton, Portland
lodging
ROOMS In the 207 guest rooms and 44 suites, you’ll find signature amenities from luxurious Frette linens and plush slippers to soft waffle weave cotton robes. The interiors evoke misty rivers and coastal waves with a play of textures and murals in serene blue and oyster gray. All suites feature bars adorned with stitched leather and champagne copper and wood detailing. For history buffs, the bar trunk is a modern interpretation of historic travel trunks from those who settled in Oregon in the 1800s.
WELLNESS FEATURES On the nineteenth floor, you’ll find the city’s first luxury spa and a sublime infinity-edge pool surrounded on three sides by soaring windows with showstopping views of the Cascade Mountains. The 4,400-square-foot fitness facility includes a yoga studio and spa oasis with sauna and steam rooms, plus a virtual snow shower used as cold therapy. Select from a suite of massages, facials and body treatments.
DINING
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The new Ritz gleams in the Portland skyline. Guest rooms bring an outdoors feel indoors. Executive suites feature bar trunks for an extra splash of luxury.
The Ritz-Carlton, Portland written by Kerry Newberry SINCE FIRST breaking ground in 2020, there’s been a buzz of anticipation surrounding the Pacific Northwest’s first Ritz-Carlton hotel. In October, the five-star hotel opened in the heart of downtown Portland. Befitting a city where reclaimed wood prevails over white table cloths, the overall design balances earthy with refined details throughout the space. In the rooms and suites, the interiors celebrate the lush and wild landscape of the region. The immersive grand lobby, aptly deemed Forest Hall, evokes the evergreen landscape of the Pacific Northwest with sensational biophilic design. Nature as art also stars in the lobby bar where a luminous installation of leafy plants and twinkling lights unfurls from the ceiling. 900 SW WASHINGTON ST. PORTLAND www.ritzcarlton.com/portland
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For conviviality head to the twentieth floor where cutting-edge interiors and dining awaits in the Ritz-Carlton Club Lounge and Bellpine restaurant. Michelin-feted chef Pedro Almeida leads the culinary program, inspired by ingredients from local foragers, fishermen and farmers. Expect starters like salt-kissed purple uni and potatoes alongside dishes such as alderwood-roasted sockeye salmon. For dessert, try a five-star brownie topped with candied mushrooms and a dollop of mushroom ice cream.
LOBBY BAR Poetically named Meadowrue for a lacy plant that thrives in woodland gardens, the lobby bar evokes the local landscape with lush greenery and timber accents. Start the day with coffee (Coava developed an exclusive blend) along with breakfast specials like quiche with spring onions, toasted pine nuts and Rogue Creamery cheese. Come dusk, the space will transition to bespoke cocktails and light bites like salmon rillettes and charcuterie from Olympia Provisions.
Freehand Cellars
WaterFire Restaurant & Bar
Treveri Cellars Wine Tasting Igloos Photo by @itstashhaynes
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trip planner
Silverton and Mount Angel Unwrap adventure and yuletide charm written by James Sinks
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trip planner
WHAT’S YOUR holiday wish? Year-round in the Willamette Valley hamlet of Silverton, across a covered footbridge in a pocket city park, a shiny red mailbox waits next to a mural of Santa and Mrs. Claus. In bold white letters, the box declares it’s the “North Pole Delivery Service.” A project of the local Kiwanis Club, the mailbox was installed in 2012 and some 400 letters with wishes—from as far away as New York and Georgia—were left last year for the jolly elf. Those with return addresses get letters back. “It’s always a surprise to what we’ll find inside: hand-drawn pictures, itemized wish lists, questions about breaking and entering,” said Sarah Walling, the club’s president. Santa is remarkably good at getting into houses, after all. North Pole letters are a longstanding local tradition here. Since before the Kiwanis box arrived, a veteran Silverton postal carrier, still on the job, and his wife have penned responses to the handful of local letters sent to Santa via regular mail boxes. The expanded North Pole Delivery Service now relies on many more happy elves. When not angling to be Oregon’s Christmastown, the city, population 10,558, is known as the gateway to the plunging waterfalls at nearby Silver Falls State Park, the largest
Zak Stone/Travel Salem
Silver Falls State Park, just outside of Silverton, is a wondrous gem with many waterfalls to visit.
in the Oregon system. It’s also been dubbed Oregon’s Garden City, as home of the Oregon Garden botanical showcase. For thousands of years, the surrounding region was home to the Kalapuya and Molala people, whose agricultural techniques involved seasonal field burning to keep pests away and improve soil health. Along with abundant timber, that soil quality helped attract white settlers who began arriving in the 1800s. The city formed in 1854 along Silver Creek, once dammed to power local mills. The guidebook Oregon Geographic Names offers two potential explanations for the creek’s name, and neither involves abundant silver, sadly. One is that an early sawmill owner used silver dollars to finance the project. The other is that an early horseback traveler dumped the contents of his saddles including money when trying to ford the creek. While there’s nothing glimmering in the water, the streetscape certainly does. With its plucked-from-a-NormanRockwell-painting downtown and hand-holding vibe, the city feels like more than a place. It’s a memory, a happy sigh, a carefree hug in an old winter sweater that disappeared years ago. This holiday season, make a wish, and snuggle into Silverton.
With its plucked-from-a-NormanRockwell-painting downtown and hand-holding vibe, the city feels like more than a place. It’s a memory, a happy sigh, a carefree hug in an old winter sweater that disappeared years ago. NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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Oregon Garden Resort
The Silverton Christmas Market with more than a million lights, holiday fare and German culture.
Day COVERED BRIDGE • GARDENS • HOLIDAY MARKET If you’re planning to proactively burn some holiday calories, you’ll likely find your favorite outdoor pursuit in the east Willamette Valley. ’Tis also the season for sogginess, so also pack all-weather gear and towels. It’s an hour drive from the Portland area to Silverton, assuming you don’t get distracted along the way, which would be perfectly understandable. State Highways 213 and 214, which converge in the scenic city, weave past rolling farmland and pinot noir wineries—a dozen of which advertise themselves jointly as the Cascade Foothills Winegrowers. Boozy history is behind the name of the next detour, the Gallon House bridge, the only remaining drive-through covered bridge in Marion County. During Prohibition, the 84-foot crossing over Abiqua Creek was a liquor drop site where bootlegger whiskey was sold from an adjacent shack—a so-called “gallon house.” Nowadays, you’re more likely to find Instagrammers. In town, fete Prohibition’s end at The Gallon House restaurant, where you can catch creative seafood like ceviche made with Patron tequila and poke nachos, and non-fishy fare like bacon-and-cheddar mac and cheese. Around the corner, if you haven’t totally spiked your blood sugar, Silverton Bake Shop will complete the task. The idea of an Oregon botanical garden first took root in the 1940s, yet it was another half century until the 1997 94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
groundbreaking at the Oregon Garden, a partnership with the city of Silverton and the nursery growing industry, the state’s top agricultural commodity. Today, the garden is an 80-acre layer cake of the horticultural sort, offering unhurried hours among lush plantscapes that evolve with the seasons, fountains, Dr. Seuss-evoking trees and twinkly lights. It’s the sort of place that also might inspire projects at home, which certainly won’t hurt the feelings of your neighborhood nursery. The property also is home to Oregon’s only residence designed by famed architect Frank Lloyd Wright. The boxy Gordon House, open for tours, was relocated from near Wilsonville two decades ago. Overlooking the expanse is the Oregon Garden Resort where, after checking in, you’ll likely land in the lounge with its mammoth, crackling wood-burning fireplace. Outside, on the resort grounds from mid-November until New Year’s, you’ll find the German-inspired Silverton Christmas Market, a decent alternative to the North Pole if you’re stuck at the 45th parallel (which runs right through town). Wander among more than a million holiday lights, visit artisan vendors, sample Bavarian fare, and warm your outside at the fire pit and your insides at the biergarten. For the energetic, rent inner tubes and race down a snowless sledding hill. Meanwhile, if your energy level would rather stay indoors, the resort’s Moonstone Spa, open until 6 p.m. on weekends, can help you relax even further, before kindling conversations by the fireplace, into the night.
trip planner
Day
James Sinks Oso Oregon Garden/Travel Salem
At perky morning hot spot Gear Up Coffee, a neon wall sign offers motivation for the entire day: “It’s worth a shot.” Silverton’s downtown feels out of a painting, with paintings. Coffee in hand, wander among mural homages to cartoonist Homer Davenport, so well-liked the city named an annual festival after him; astronaut Don Pettit; and Bobbie the Wonder Dog, who found his way back to Silverton in the 1920s after being lost in Indiana. Downtown is also a fine place to buy paint supplies, and whatever else colors your holiday shopping list. At Apples to Oranges, find jigsaw puzzles, yarn and tea. Gemstones (but no local silver) await at “I’ve Got Rocks in My Head.” At popular Wild Dandelion, there’s kitschy interior decor. In between, tame your morning appetite at Magnolia Grill. Brisket Benedict and maple-glazed pork belly on waffles? Yes, please. To work off breakfast, you can dependably break a sweat at Silver Falls State Park, where 4 miles of paved and more than 40 miles of unpaved trails crisscross 9,200 acres of temperate rainforest. Plunk down $5 to park and marvel at thundering waterfalls from the front—and admire water’s backside where trails allow— on the renowned Trail of Ten Falls, a 7.2-mile canyon loop. The place was a national park candidate in the 1930s, but federal agencies ultimately passed due to heavy logging. It’s hard to tell now. Because of the proximity to Portland, the park sees about twice as many people—more than 1.2 million annually—than does more distant Crater Lake. Most visitors start at the historic lodge adjacent to the 177-foot South Falls, but the newly opened North Falls Trailhead is expected to ease some summertime congestion. You also can escape crowds and find trail fuel, sandwiches and midday espresso at Big Leaf Coffee and Grill, deeper in the park’s interior at Smith River Village. Want a bird’s eye view and also to feel like a kid again? Don colorful helmets and gloves and ascend almost 300 feet into the old growth Douglas fir canopy with Tree Climbing at Silver Falls, which operates year-round except in wind and thunderstorms. You also can camp in the branches. It’s the second location for the climbing outfitter, started in Washington state. Climbing in winter? “We just bundle up some more, and you don’t even notice it,” said owner Leo Rosen-Fischer. “Why should the cold stop fun? I mean, people still ski.” At Oso, located downtown, Spanish and Mediterranean choices pair well with a sultry red wine and your perhaps tired partner. For grazing, the tapas menu lets you assemble many flavors on your tabletop. Make sure one is the bacon shallot confit. After dessert, it’s just a block to the soaring local Christmas tree (don’t climb it) and the red mailbox, if you have a gift in mind—or want breaking and entering tips.
Travel Salem
MURALS • DOWNTOWN • WATERFALLS
FROM TOP Silverton is home to more than thirty murals, like this one featuring cartoonist Homer Davenport painted by David McDonald. The Silverton mailbox for letters to the North Pole. Oso restaurant, where flavors of Spain and the Mediterranean come together. The muse next door, the Oregon Garden.
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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Cyndi Easterly/Travel Salem
EAT Big Leaf Coffee and Grill www.smithcreekvillage.com/ thebigleafcoffeehouseandgrill The Gallon House www.thegallonhousesilverton.com Gear Up Coffee www.gear-up-silverton.square.site Mac’s Place www.macssilverton.com Magnolia Grill www.facebook.com/ magnoliagrill210 Markum Inn www.markuminn.com
Oso www.ososilverton.com Silverton Bake Shop www.silvertonbakeshop.com
STAY McClaine House www.themcclainehouse.com
Travel Salem
Mount Angel Sausage Co. www.mtangelsausage.com Travel Salem
SILVERTON + MOUNT ANGEL, OREGON
trip planner
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Brews from the old tradition at Benedictine Brewery in Mount Angel. Christmas tree farms abound in this region. Mount Angel Sausage Co. is one of the finest of its kind in the state.
Oregon Garden Resort www.oregongardenresort.com
Day
Silverton Inn & Suites www.silvertoninnandsuites.com
BLESSED BREWS • BAVARIAN FARE • CHRISTMAS TREES
Smith Creek Village at Silver Falls www.smithcreekvillage.com
PLAY Alpacas at Marquam Hill Ranch www.mhralpacas.com Benedictine Brewery www.mountangelabbey.org/ benedictine-brewery Cascade Foothills Wineries www.cascadefoothillswines.com Merrywood Farm www.merrywoodfarm.com Mount Angel Abbey www.mountangelabbey.org Oregon Garden www.oregongarden.org Silver Falls State Park www.oregonstateparks.org Silverton Christmas Market www.silvertonchristmasmarket.com Silverton Mural Society www.silvertonmuralsociety.org Tree Climbing at Silver Falls www.treeclimbingatsilverfalls.com White Christmas Tree Farm www.whitechristmastreefarm.com Willamette Valley Pie Co. www.wvpie.com
Silver Creek is a serene spot for a morning stretch, but don’t be surprised if your legs take you to the city’s oldest standing riverfront building, the home of Mac’s Place, a wood-floored tavern with deck seating overlooking the water and a weekend Bloody Mary and mimosa bar. After feeding your belly, you can feed your soul up the road at Mount Angel, where in the 1880s Catholic Benedictine missionaries established a church and abbey atop a hill once known as Lone Butte. En route, you can also meet hungry alpacas. Relatives of camels, alpacas are prized for their crazy soft hair, and you can meet eighty of them (and feed a few from your lap during the educational tour) at Marquam Hill Ranch. You can sometimes see good habits on nuns at Catholic services, and also take in a spectacular valley view from the church and seminary complex atop Mount Angel. Meanwhile, at the base of the hill, you can hone maybe not-as-good habits at Benedictine Brewery and Taproom, one of the few
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remaining places maintaining the monastic tradition of brewing beer, dating to the Middle Ages. Most of the ten beers on tap are named after saints, and all were blessed by priests on the way to your glass. The town is also considered the most German in Oregon, and hosts a lively Oktoberfest each fall. For the wurst experience, in a good way, check out the Bavarian market with dishes for your yuletide feast, and maybe lunch, at Mount Angel Sausage Co. Depending on the day of the week (namely, if its not Sunday), buy holiday frozen pies— and enjoy pie happy hour by the slice—at nearby Willamette Valley Pie Co. For a finale, it’s time to take a bough. This is Christmas tree country, after all. About a third of the nation’s holiday trees come from the Willamette Valley. Harvest u-cut trees, happy memories and photos at White Christmas Tree Farm near Silverton or Merrywood Farm near Molalla. Back in the car, maybe with cocoa, smile. If one of your wishes is a magical weekend, mission accomplished.
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northwest destination
A nice change of pace at Whistler is slowing down to smell the snowdrifts.
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northwest destination
Whistler, B.C. With Whistler’s Cornucopia festival, food and wine are in the spotlight before—and after—skiing
Justa Jeskova/Tourism Whistler
written by James Sinks BREATHTAKING OUTDOOR adventure—particularly once the snow starts flying—is always on the menu in the wonderland of Whistler, B.C. A two-hour drive up the Sea-to-Sky Highway from Vancouver, the renowned luxury resort is an all-year attraction and a winter recreation mecca, and home to the neighboring, gondola-connected peaks of Whistler and Blackcomb, a former Olympics venue and the largest ski area in North America. Zigzagging through powder is only one of the tantalizing main courses here. You’ll also find dogsledding, alpine zip lining, luxury spas in the chalet-style village, snow shoeing, and even ski jumps and a bobsled track. Between and after, it’s the sort of place where you can work up some serious hunger. Luckily, it’s also a place where they take food seriously. And come November, the resort’s international restaurant scene is the center of attention. Before ski lifts open for the season, which occurs each year on the U.S. Thanksgiving holiday weekend, Whistler hosts the ritzy Cornucopia festival, focused on pursuits of the palate-pleasing sort. It is both a celebration and exploration of the culinary bounty of British Columbia, said James Walt, a cookbook author and the executive chef at three top-tier local eateries, specializing in French, Spanish and Italian fare. “It’s a time for the winemakers and restaurants to shine,” said Walt, who arrived in Whistler in 1997 in his 20s and is now a de facto Cornucopia celebrity, hosting happy crowds for events at his Araxi, Il Caminetto and Bar Oso restaurants. During Cornucopia, most of the dishes are designed based on the wines being served, and that leads to some experimenting and discovery, including a locally sourced duck dish that found its way onto his permanent menu, he said. Founded as a weekend affair twenty-seven years ago to help fill rooms during the quiet fall shoulder season, Cornucopia now stretches eleven days with bustling draws like sommelier-led themed dinners featuring local and international wines, stage shows where chefs prepare dishes in front of audiences, and both informal and black-tie events. The sessions attract private chefs and restaurateurs from afar, brewmasters and distillers, culinary media, and foodie and wine-tasting tourists. NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
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If you go, a “how to” guide from the local travel office recommends not eating much beforehand, and pacing yourself once you arrive at the event. This year, for the first time, the schedule includes a celebration of indigenous flavors and history, said Mary Zinck of Tourism Whistler, which helps to stage the festival. Known for swanky resort hotels like the Four Seasons and Nita Lake Lodge and Spa, Whistler is centered around interconnected villages where mostly you traverse on foot, so remember comfortable shoes and coats. The place is home to 14,000 permanent residents but that number can swell to 55,000 on peak weekends. That’s when room rates also peak, but Canadian exchange rates help dollars stretch while you’re stretching your horizons. One thing is certain: You will only be bored if you want to be.
Reuben Krabbe/Destination BC
Darby Magill/Tourism Whistler
northwest destination
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WHISTLER, BRITISH COLUMBIA
northwest destination
EAT Araxi www.araxi.com Bar Oso www.baroso.ca Bearfoot Bistro www.bearfootbistro.com Carumba Restaurant www.carambarestaurant.com Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub www.whistler.dubhlinngate.com Mekong www.88mekong.ca Rockit Cafe www.rockitcoffee.ca Sushi Village www.sushivillage.com Wild Blue Restaurant + Bar www.wildbluerestaurant.com
STAY
Not on the slopes? Whistler’s naturescape beckons with scenic hikes, lakes, biking routes and, near town, the 3.5-mile Lost Lake Loop nature trail. Want to relax? The after-exercise après scene touts lively pubs, clubs and rubs at luxury spots like Scandinave Spa Whistler. Happily, you’ll never be too far from the food, gourmet and otherwise. Both the Bearfoot Bistro—a steak-and-lobster house which also includes a chilly “ice room” for Ketel One vodka tasting—and Northwest fare-focused Wild Blue Restaurant + Bar recently earned coveted spots on Canada’s best 100 restaurants list. Find Irish fare at Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub, Thai cuisine at Mekong, plus vegan cafes, thirteen places to get sushi, and—if you get a McHankering—there’s even a McDonald’s. “Whistler is such an international destination,” Zinck said. “We have people from all over the world here, and our restaurants reflect that.”
Crystal Lodge www.crystal-lodge.com @awejunkie/Destination BC
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The immaculate Cornucopia event in Whistler celebrates the best of the culinary scene in British Columbia. The highly sought Scandinave Spa at Whistler. Take a snowy stroll through Whistler Village.
Walt said the coastal mountain region’s culinary upswing comes courtesy of an abundance of local farm-to-table growers, freshly caught fish from local lakes and seafood from the Salish Sea, and also the nearby Okanagen Valley, the cradle of British Columbia’s wine industry. The growing roster of restaurants—which has doubled in the past two decades—benefit from the cache that’s celebrated at Cornucopia, and also because the region has evolved into a year-round hot spot, so there are no longer months-long dry spells, Walt said. The robust local harvest bounty helps explain why, after arriving from Ottawa, Walt decided to put down roots and stay. “The wine, the weather, the produce. I can’t think of many more places better to be a chef, and you can’t beat where you are in the world.” It also means if you happen to have an appetite for adventure and, well, an appetite, there’s no wrong time to visit. NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2023
Four Seasons www.fourseasons.com/whistler Nita Lake Lodge Resort & Spa www.nitalakelodge.com Summit Lodge www.paradoxhotels.com/ summit-lodge The Westin Resort & Spa www.marriott.com
PLAY Audain Art Museum www.audainartmuseum.com Blackcomb Dog Sled www.blackcombdogsled.com Bobsled Rides www.whistlerreservations.com/ winter-activities/whistler-bobsleigh Cornucopia www.whistlercornucopia.com Ice Room www.exploretock.com/ keteloneiceroom Lost Lake Loop Trail www.vancouvertrails.com/trails/ lost-lake-nature-trail Scandinave Spa www.scandinave.com/whistler Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre www.slcc.ca Whistler Blackcomb ski resort www.whistlerblackcomb.com ZipTrek EcoTour Ziplines www.whistler.ziptrek.com
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend
Eugene Springfield
Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
16 Ferment Brewing Company
50 University of Oregon
86
St. Peter’s Catholic Church
26 Port Orford Sustainable Seafood
52 Trailkeepers of Oregon
88
Bill Collier Ice Arena
27 Dear Irene
54 Columbia River Maritime Museum
90
The Ritz-Carlton, Portland
28 McCarthy Family Farm
56 Micro Enterprise Services of Oregon
92
Oregon Garden
98
Whistler, British Columbia
38 Perpetually Devastated
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Escape to the Pacific Northwest, Just the Two of You Unwinding across 3,300 forested acres, just moments from Bend, Oregon, Sunriver Resort is an all-season retreat for couples to simply get away and play. Set off on an outdoor adventure amidst the foothills of the Cascade Range. Soothe your minds and rejuvenate your bodies at Sage Springs Spa. Savor Central Oregon flavors and wines with an inspired meal at Lodge Kitchen. At Sunriver Resort, natural attractions meet nature-inspired amenities designed for connection and exploration.
Book your romantic getaway at SunriverResort.com/Offers
Until Next Time Greeted by the aurora borealis at Thor’s Well. photo by David Shockey (@davidshockeyjr)
Continue for Special Insert
Make Tracks make memories.
Stay StayLonger, & Ski Ski More! Packages Stay 4 nights get one free
Book your McCall, Id winter vacation at
visitmccall.org
Kid-friendly Mt. Bachelor has a top-notch ski school that lets parents and kids thrive. (photo: Mt. Bachelor)
THE 2023/24
SKI RESORT OVERVIEW WHAT’S NEW + WHAT’S AFFORDABLE FOR FAMILIES AT SKI AREAS IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
THIS YEAR’S SKI SEASON brings intrigue, as we wonder what another El Niño weather pattern will bring us—more snow or less. In the meantime, many ski areas have been busy, adding new facilities, lodges, faster lifts and expanded ski acreage. Still others are doing their best to contain costs and keep prices reasonable for families. In our 2023/24 Ski Resort Overview, we dive into what’s new and what’s reasonable at resorts across the Pacific Northwest.
A publication of Statehood Media
Cover: Big Sky Resort
www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com
photo: Tomas Cohen Photography/Big Sky Resort
2023 SKI NORTHWEST 3
OREGON
MT. BACHELOR Mt. Bachelor is the belle of the ball in Oregon. It has 4,300 acres of terrain, twelve chair lifts, 101 runs, terrain parks, 3,365 feet of vertical and daysworth of territory to ski. While Bachelor can be seen for miles around, it’s 22 miles back into Bend that you’ll find the first lodging accommodations. WHAT’S NEW: This season, Mt. Bachelor unveils its first detachable six-pack chair, replacing the old Skyliner chair. What that means is less time waiting in line and on the chair and more time making turns and hitting rails. DINING + DRINKING: Dining options are easy and plentiful in Bend, where good food and
good beer go hand in hand. To get the best of Bend, begin at its breweries. Lifty’s is the new project of craft beer veteran Chris Justema. The atmosphere, food and beer are spot on for après ski. Deschutes Brewery is well known and worth the wait for its food and drink. Likewise with Crux Fermentation Project, the food and beer are divine and the views of the Cascades are not bad either. Cocktails are best served at the new Waypoint at Northwest Crossing or margaritas at El Sancho in either of its two locations. The best vegetarian meals in Bend are at Wild Rose, a downtown northern Thai restaurant, and Spork, a creative Asian fusion restaurant.
Lifty’s in Bend is the perfect spot for après ski or a hearty weekend brunch before a big day on the slopes. (photo: Lifty’s)
4 SKI NORTHWEST 2023
With more than 4,300 acres of skiable terrain, Mt. Bachelor is the mother of all resorts in Oregon. (photo: Mt. Bachelor)
The night skiing culture at Hoodoo—steep, deep and heat! (photo: Pete Alport/ Hoodoo Ski Area)
HOODOO SKI AREA Known by the motto “Steep, Deep and Cheap,” Hoodoo is a budget alternative to the popular Mt. Bachelor. It has thirty-six runs, 800 skiable acres and five lifts. On the Santiam Pass, Hoodoo’s base elevation is 4,700 feet. Though Hoodoo gets an average annual snowfall of 450 inches, the resort struggles with weather patterns atop the Santiam Pass. When the snow is plentiful, Hoodoo is a classic small-resort experience. Just 21 miles northwest of Sisters, Hoodoo gives its skiers and riders a thrilling day at the slopes and the benefits of being close to the cozy western town of Sisters. Enjoy reduced rates with the Hoodoo AnyCard, which puts
you on the slopes for less than $66 for any five days with no blackout dates. Never forget Thrifty Thursdays, when discount lift tickets are just $29! And kids 7 and under always ski free at Hoodoo! DINING + DRINKING: A few favorites in the Sisters area are Three Creeks Brewery on the FivePine Lodge campus, Angelina’s Bakery for vegan and vegetarian food of the most divine quality and The Open Door for modern Italian cuisine and Oregon wines. Sisters Bakery on the main street, Cascade Avenue, also makes the mother of all fritters. A family of four could greedily share one. AT LEFT Not far from Hoodoo, The Open Door in Sisters offers modern Italian cuisine in a cozy setting. (photo: Sisters Area Chamber of Commerce)
2023 SKI NORTHWEST 5
OREGON
MT. HOOD MEADOWS Mt. Hood Meadows ski area is 35 scenic miles south of Hood River. Meadows, as it’s known, has 2,150 acres of terrain, 2,777 vertical feet, eleven lifts and eighty-seven trails. Its reputation soars with advanced skiers as its terrain offers a lot in the expert range. Daily ticket prices vary as Meadows now uses dynamic pricing based on demand. Mt. Hood Meadows has its ValuePass to make skiing more affordable for locals. Under the ValuePass, the discounts are substantial: junior (7-14) $369, young adult (15-24) $399, adult (25-64) $519, and senior (65-74) $419. But the reduced price comes with restrictions from December 22 to January 1 and on weekends through March. DINING + DRINKING: In the Fruit Loop of Oregon, Hood River sits at the nexus of great craft beer and wine, a nice problem to have. Perhaps the best way to split the difference is at restaurants like Solstice Wood Fire Pizza and Four & Twenty Blackbirds food truck, which have beautiful vegetarian options. Double Mountain Brewery has delicious beer and the best truffle pizza combo. For the full experience, try Celilo downtown, which brings together local meat, produce and wine in a romantic atmosphere.
Go big at Mt. Hood Meadows. (photo: Richard Hallman/Mt. Hood Meadows)
6 SKI NORTHWEST 2023
The family-friendly Mt. Ashland is relatively inexpensive and adjacent to a town with some of the best restaurants in the state. (photo: Mt. Ashland Ski Area)
MT. ASHLAND Mt. Ashland has five lifts serving forty-four runs and 1,150 vertical feet over 240 acres. Though it’s not a massive resort, on good snow years, it is the perfect old-school retreat from the masses. Keep your eye on the El Niño effect
ANTHONY LAKES MOUNTAIN RESORT Just north of Baker City in Eastern Oregon, Anthony Lakes daily passes come at a family budget rate with adults $50, students $45 and children $35. The old-school ski area feels a little like the one you grew up with, but with a twist. The terrain can get a little steep. The snow can get very deep and the backcountry or cat skiing can be top-shelf pow pow. One triple chair serves twenty-one runs and 1,100 acres. Anthony Lakes’ Starbottle Saloon in the lodge is itself worth the journey.
this year to see whether that leads to more snow for Mt. Ashland, with its base elevation of 6,344 feet. Lift passes are relatively reasonable at $69 for adults (13-69), $59 for children (7-12), while ages 6 and younger and 70 and older ski free.
DINING + DRINKING: Caldera Brewery has it right when it comes to solid pub fare and tasty craft beers. For a full culinary experience, treat yourself to Larks Home Kitchen, where everything is made from local sources and with the finest care.
WHAT’S NEW: A new master plan for Anthony Lakes reveals modest improvements over the next decade for the ski area. Aside from more mountain bike trails, snowcat skiers will soon see a 30-foot yurt on the back of the mountain with cooking, heating and dining. The master plan also calls for a thinning of trees to open more skiable acres in the future. DINING + DRINKING: For dining options in Baker City, Latitude 45 Grille serves local meat in the form of steak and burgers, and Mulan Garden is good for vegetarian options.
ABOVE, FROM TOP Anthony Lakes in Eastern Oregon is a true local gem and a fun throwback destination. Latitude 45 Grille in Baker City brings together local and protein in a savory way. (photos, from top: Alyssa Henry/ Anthony Lakes, Latitude 45 Grille)
Y t Y p
YOU live for the RUSH. You’re our people.
There’s a certain breed of folks who seek inspiration off the beaten path. We know because we’re those folks too. Whether captivated by the natural beauty of our surroundings or our warm and friendly town, Hood River is the year-round destination for what moves you. Plan your journey at VisitHoodRiver.com
Photo: Richard Hallman
WASHINGTON
MT. BAKER SKI AREA Just under 60 miles east of Bellingham and in the North Cascades, Mt. Baker is seen as a locals’ mountain buttressed by season pass holders. For non-locals, Baker parses age groups for daily lift prices more so than most ski areas (and down to the
WHITE PASS SKI AREA Less than an hour west of Yakima, White Pass Ski Area sets up nicely for families, with half of its runs intermediate, a third beginner and a smattering of advanced runs. In all, there are 1,400 skiable acres, with 2,000 feet of vertical covering six chairlifts and forty-five runs. White Pass’s Nordic skiing comprises 18 kilometers of groomed skinny skiing. WHAT’S NEW: A new group of local owners took over White
penny), and that may benefit some families—adult (16-59) $91.20, youth (11-15) $56.48, child (7-10) $38.89, senior (60-69) $76.85, and super senior (70+) $53.70. Depending on the ages of those in your family Mt. Baker may thread the needle for you. Baker has eight quad chairs,
1,500 vertical feet and 1,000 acres of deep snow.
Pass in 2022, setting out modest changes in the near term and eyeing bigger plans for the future. White Pass will add new cross-country trails to its existing network and installed a new Magic Carpet for tots and beginner skiers. The new management was also reportedly looking to add a new lift and, possibly, a new base area building, too.
Canyon Kitchen and Crafted. Both have a full bar, craft beer and tantalizing menus.
DINING + DRINKING: For both dining and drinking, two places in Yakima stand out—Cowiche
DINING + DRINKING: For dining and drinking, head back to Bellingham for a lively brewery scene that includes Aslan and Kulshan breweries and restaurants Lombardi’s and Keenan’s at the Pier, as well as dozens more.
Farm-to-table Crafted in downtown Yakima. (photo: Crafted)
White Pass Ski Area west of Yakima has both alpine and Nordic ski options. (photo: Jason Hummel/State of Washington Tourism)
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CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN Approximately 85 miles southeast of Seattle, Crystal Mountain has been the magnet for Seattleites as well as Washington’s other top urban centers. Washington’s largest ski resort, Crystal offers 2,600 acres with 2,400 vertical feet. WHAT’S NEW: Colorado-based Alterra Mountain Company bought Crystal Mountain in 2018 and brought whispers of capital improvements. Soon it had laid out an ambitious five-year $100 million improvement plan, which includes a reimagined base area called Mountain Commons. The cornerstone of the new Mountain Commons is a new 25,000-square-foot lodge that will have four new dining locations, retail space, more seating for guests and faster access to lifts. The Mountain Commons will be open this season. DINING + DRINKING: Because Crystal is on the relatively remote edge of Mt. Rainier National Forest, most consumption is done on the mountain itself. Crystal’s restaurants channel the great vibes for après ski eat and drink. Fireside Cantina at the base and Summit House Restaurant at the top of the gondola combine views, brews and amusebouche for your dining experience.
Crystal Mountain will show off its $100 million facelift along with great stashes of powder this winter. (photo: Jason Hummel/ Crystal Mountain)
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WASHINGTON
MT. SPOKANE SKI & SNOWBOARD PARK Approximately 30 miles northeast of Spokane, the ski area is home to seven lifts, fifty-two runs and more than 1,700 acres. The daily lift ticket isn’t the cheapest in the Northwest, but moderate for the region. Adults (18-59) $75, youth (7-17) $68, children (6 and under) free, seniors (60-69) $68 and super seniors (70-79) $45. Take $15 off your lift ticket price if you’re a late riser and start after 12:30 p.m. WHAT’S NEW: Two years ago, the two lodges at Mt. Spokane were renovated, adding a new dining area, new equipment and new garage doors opening to an outdoor patio. Together, this elevated the dining culture at Mt. Spokane.
ABOVE The Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park just outside of Spokane, with renovated lodges to boot. AT LEFT Hogwash Whiskey Den is a speakeasy with cocktail options for whiskey lovers. (photos, from top: Lindsey Bangsberg/ Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park, Visit Spokane)
DINING + DRINKING: Head into Spokane, which has become a booming culinary scene—from restaurants such as Zona Blanca ceviche bar and delicate pastas at Gander & Ryegrass as well as alluring cocktail bars like Bistango Martini Lounge and Hogwash Whiskey Den.
METHOW VALLEY
Cross-country nirvana. The Methow Valley has America’s best trails and largest network in a heavenly setting. (photo: Methow Trails)
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One of the planet’s best Nordic ski areas is Methow Valley. The tiny community here maintains more than 130 miles of groomed trails as they connect one small town on the eastern shoulder of the North Cascades to each other. The string of towns along this part of the valley are Mazama, Winthrop and Twisp. Day passes are $30 for adults. Kids age 17 and under ski free as do seniors 75 and older.
DINING + DRINKING: The small towns of the Methow Valley have surprisingly good choices for dining—from the deli at the Mazama Store, to creative Asian dishes at Linwood and unforgettable Italian cuisine at Tappi in Twisp, you won’t miss the big-city culinary scene. For old school burgers and good beer, the Old Schoolhouse Brewery in Winthrop is the place.
Your Year-Round Getaway!
Discover North America’s Largest Network of Cross-Country Ski Trails Boutique shopping, affordable lodging, delicious food, and plenty of outdoor recreation. WinthropWashington.com
SKINNY SKIS welcome 200+km groomed daily kids ski free
methowtrails.org
IDAHO
SCHWEITZER In northern Idaho’s Selkirk Range, Schweitzer is truly a hidden gem with 2,900 acres of skiing across four chairlifts and an impressive 2,400 feet of vertical. WHAT’S NEW: A new spa, Cambium, is one of the features of more than $5 million in improvements at Schweitzer. Other improvements include enhancements to Schweitzer’s chairlifts and snowmaking to an increase in the resort’s daycare capacity.
Schweitzer is like a small European ski resort tucked away in northern Idaho. (photo: Schweitzer)
BRUNDAGE MOUNTAIN RESORT Just 9 miles north of McCall, Brundage Mountain Resort has five lifts covering 1,920 acres and a vertical drop of 1,921 feet. Daily lift tickets for adults (18-69) are $86, $62 for teens (13-17), $40 for kids (7-12), $62 for seniors (70+) and free for kids 6 and younger. For those who prefer skinnier skis, McCall has fantastic groomed Nordic trails nearby. Little Bear Basin, Ponderosa State Park and Jug Mountain Ranch are just a few areas where novice to novel skiers can kick and glide through amazing outdoor scenes.
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DINING + DRINKING: A village unto itself, Schweitzer has plenty of reasons to keep you from driving into Sandpoint. Pastas at Chimney Rock Grill and burgers at Crow’s Bench are just two examples that will keep you in the village and off of the winding road back to Sandpoint.
WHAT’S NEW: Brundage Resort’s $25-$30 million improvement plan is underway with a new detachable quad that reduces the uphill travel time by nearly two-thirds and, next year, a new Mountain Adventure Center that includes a 1,700 square-foot building with guest services, ticketing, retail, rentals, Brundage’s mountain sports school and a coffee shop. DINING + DRINKING: Cutwater on Payette Lake for lobster bisque and wine, Rupert’s Restaurant for elk meatloaf and McCall Brewing Company for burgers are a few good options in McCall, a town that has many more to choose from.
W T
A new lift at Brundage Resort means less time on the lift and more time on the snow. (photo: Visit Idaho)
Traverse 149 miles of groomed cross-country trails, savor gourmet dining, and bond with family in Winthrop, WA. With skis, lessons, and passes conveniently located at the Lodge, make us your ski getaway.
509.996.2211 www.SunMountainLodge.com
604 Patterson Lake Rd | Winthrop, WA | 98862
USE CODE "XCSKI" FOR 20% OFF A WINTER SKI GETAWAY
WINTER AT THE LODGE
ski | snowshoe | sled | learn | play
IDAHO SUN VALLEY Ski glam doesn’t come cheap at Sun Valley. New lifts and new terrain make Idaho’s premier resort worth the trip. (photo: Jon Mancuso-Idarado Media/ Sun Valley Resort)
The birthplace of lift-serve skiing and the nostalgic winter playground of Hollywood’s golden era, Sun Valley has charm, history, people-watching and more than 2,000 skiable acres. The main Warm Springs Lodge at Bald Mountain (Sun Valley Resort’s main ski area) was renovated in 2019 after a fire ripped through and gutted it in 2018. Rest assured, the glamor of the original was dutifully restored. The resort has 121 runs, eighteen lifts and 3,400 feet of vertical drop. WHAT’S NEW: The addition of lift-served access to more than 400 acres of new terrain on Bald Mountain and two new chairlifts at Warm Springs bring new adventures to America’s alpine ski birthplace. The daily ski passes remain in the affordability of Hollywood stars (pre-strike), with adult day passes more than $210, children approximately $114 and seniors around $138 each. DINING + DRINKING: The main street classics (Pioneer Saloon, Sawtooth Club and Whiskey Jacques’) may be overrun on any given weekend. Shoot for Despo’s for top-notch Mexican cuisine and margaritas. Il Naso is an intimate Italian restaurant out of the fray and with a deep wine list. For cocktails, head back to Main Street to either Warfield’s Distillery & Brewery or to Limelight Hotel, where you can sit indoors or outdoors in a courtyard that overlooks a little park that houses the regional museum.
The birthplace of lift-serve skiing and the nostalgic winter playground of Hollywood’s golden era, Sun Valley has charm, history, people-watching and more than 2,000 skiable acres.
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SPONSORED CONTENT
IS ON MT. HOOD YOUR NEXT SKI VACATION
VISIT MIDWEEK Once the snow arrives, Mt. Hood can be a popular destination. If you’d like fewer people around, visiting midweek (Mon–Thurs) is a great way to minimize the wait times at the chair lifts and the best spots to eat. Another perk of traveling midweek? Many lodging options properties offer lower rates on those days. Perhaps you can even extend your stay with the savings! And just think of all the things you can do with an entire day added to your itinerary.
PLAN YOUR TRIP TODAY! omht.us/winter
As Oregon’s grandest peak, Mt. Hood is known the world over as a top skiing destination, and for good reason. As home to the longest ski season in North America and the largest night skiing area in the country, it’s earned that reputation.
Conveniently located 90 minutes from Portland, on Mt. Hood you can ski with locals, enjoy a beer at a craft brewery, spend the night in a mountain resort, follow snowshoe trails through old-growth forests and experience what makes Oregon a truly special place.
snow sports for generations, swing into the Mt. Hood Cultural Center & Museum.
Time To Refuel
Don’t trek back down the mountain for a great après ski meal — there are plenty of places to eat here. Located along Hwy 26, Chicali Cantina offers a great selection of Mexican food and extensive kids’ and pups’ menus.
And there’s no reason to leave once you’ve finished on the slopes. Everything you need for your trip is right here on the mountain.
And while sushi might not be thought of as a “mountain food,” Koya Kitchen has accepted that challenge. Offering made fresh sushi rolls, poke bowls and noodles, you can relax in a heated, outdoor A-frame hut while reminiscing about your adventures on the mountain that day.
Learn From Experts
Stay Close To The Slopes
The guides at Mt. Hood Outfitters can take you on Nordic skiing excursions, snowmobile trips and snowshoe tours. No gear? No worries! They provide everything you will need. If you want to learn more about how Mt. Hood’s ski culture has been instrumental in developing
Want a full-service resort? Try the Mt. Hood Oregon Resort in Welches. Love to stay right at the mountain? Collins Lake Resort is in the heart of Government Camp. Want a home away from home? Choose from dozens of vacation rentals from Mt. Hood or All Seasons Vacation Rentals.
MONTANA
Big Sky is on everyone’s bucket list and is Montana’s biggest resort at 5,800 acres. (photo: Big Sky Resort)
SNOWBOWL
BIG SKY RESORT
Just 13 miles north of Missoula, Snowbowl is the local resort for Montana’s second-largest city at approximately 75,000. With 2,600 feet of vertical, Snowbowl is second only to Big Sky in a state with dozens of ski areas. The resort will feel like a steep version of vintage skiing. It has four chairs, thirty-nine runs and nearly 1,000 skiable acres.
The MOASA (mother of all ski areas) of Montana, Big Sky is where you go when you want a resort where you never have to ski the same run twice in a week. With more than 250 runs, Big Sky also has a staggering 4,350-foot vertical drop. A short 50 miles southeast of Bozeman, Big Sky has 5,800 acres, or 9 square miles of skiable terrain.
DINING + DRINKING: The two dining areas on the mountain are Double Diamond Cafe for burgers and soup, and The Last Run inside Gelandesprung Lodge for wood-fired pizzas and bloody marys. The retro vibe of Snowbowl will recall your childhood skiing happiness.
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DINING + DRINKING: A massive capital project has spawned recent (and future) improvements, such as the après ski Umbrella Bar, the remodel of Huntley Lodge and Summit Hotel among others. At a resort on the scale of Big
Any fun day on the mountain at Big Sky includes lunch at Carabiner. (photo: Tomas Cohen Photography/Big Sky Resort)
Sky, there are many options for dining. Here are a few of our faves: Chet’s Bar & Grill for steak frites; Westward Social
for cocktails and comfort food; and Carabiner for soup, salad and duck tacos. The sky’s the limit at Big Sky.
WE SEIZE THE (SNOW) DAY
YOU WON’T FIND A MORE INSPIRING MOUNTAIN TOWN THAN MISSOULA, WHERE THREE RIVERS AND SEVEN WILDERNESS AREAS CONVERGE IN THE CULTURAL HUB OF MONTANA. The allure is immeasurable, with outdoor access at every corner and a culinary scene that rivals big cities. This vibrant community is bliss for fresh air enthusiasts, creative souls, and anyone who enjoys a good beer alongside a great meal. Missoula doesn’t just feed the soul, it satisfies the senses. Book your stay and plan your getaway to Missoula.
AT SKIING SNOWBOWL
BOOK HERE
Travel Safely. Explore Responsibly. Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/1889 for more information.
CANADA
FERNIE ALPINE RESORT Located 242 miles northeast of Spokane in the Lizard Range of the Canadian Rockies, Fernie is renowned for its huge annual snowfall that averages 30 feet. Unlike many of our featured ski areas, Fernie is the complete village resort with ski services, lodging, dining, bars and a grocery store. The lift-service alpine area has 2,500 skiable acres, with 3,550 vertical feet,142 runs, seven chairlifts and a few restaurants on the mountain. Fernie also offers spectacular cat ski options for more advanced skiers who crave deep powder. Lift ticket prices range from about $100 for adults to $75 for teens, $40 for kids and nearly $80 for seniors. For XC skiers, the Fernie Nordic Society manages a few cross-country ski areas nearby including the Elk Valley Nordic Centre just 5 kilometers back toward town. If you plan ahead for a special Nordic ski trip, book the snowcat up to Island Lake Lodge for 25 kilometers of skinny skiing, a spa and gourmet lunch package. DINING + DRINKING: Check out Cirque Restaurant and Bar, with surf and turf plus a Parisian gnocchi dish on the menu. Its wine list is dominated by French reds and British Columbia whites. Legends Mountain Eatery has two kinds of poutine on its menu, plus burgers and sandwiches, beer and wine. Between these two venues, there’s little need to forage further.
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ABOVE The elegant Cirque Restaurant and Bar at Fernie. BELOW Fernie feels like a European getaway, though just north of the Washington border in British Columbia. (photos, from top: Matt Kuhn/Fernie Alpine Resort, Abbydell Photography/Fernie Alpine Resort)
Experience the Canadian Rockies, Fernie Style.
Photo: Destination BC / Dave Heath
Over 30 Ft of Snow Annually | 3,550 Vertical Ft | Top Elevation 7,000 Ft 2,500 Acres of Lift Access Terrain & Thousands of Acres for Catskiing
Located in the Rockies of southeast British Columbia, Fernie is known for its deep powder snow and cool local vibe. Just over a 100 miles north of Whitefish & Kalispell, Montana, Fernie is easy to get to. With savings of 25-30% thanks to the great exchange rate, a trip north this winter is well worth it!
Fernie Alpine Resort – 4 Nights Ski-in Ski-Out Suite & 4 Days of Skiing from US$168/night/person* FWA Catskiing – Single Day Snowcat Skiing from US$440/person, early or late season. Island Lake Catskiing – 2 Nights & 2 Days All-Inclusive from US$1,898/person* *based on double occupancy
Book your winter trip today! | VisitFernieBC.com | #ferniestoke
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