1889 Washington's Magazine | August/September 2022

TRIP PLANNER: BELLINGHAM PG. 78

A Grays Harbor Beer Itinerary

Mouthwatering Marionberries

Wild Beauty at Palouse Falls

Coast The

HOW TO EXPLORE WASHINGTON’S WATERS SUSTAINABLY

UNCORK WASHINGTON: YOUR GUIDE TO LOCAL WINE REGIONS KITCHEN MAKEOVERS MARRY STYLE + FUNCTION VANCOUVER, BC

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WASHINGTON

August | September

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A Getaway Without compromise.

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Whether you’re looking for signature steaks, fresh seafood, or an enviable selection of the finest whiskeys, enjoy a premier dining Xperience at Whiskey Prime Steakhouse. Stay the night and Xperience unforgettable comfort in our newly renovated Hotel.

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C A S I N O

R E S O R T

Discover yourself here.

Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New custom homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Coming soon, a vibrant community plaza, specialty retail and even more amenities will continue to differentiate this unique neighborhood.

Discover your best Central Oregon lifestyle by learning more at discoverywestbend.com or visiting our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.

2 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

Take the Plunge photography by Annie Crawley FROM KAYAKING the San Juans to visiting the giant Pacific octopus, learn how to enjoy the Washington Coast sustainably with diver, videographer and ocean advocate Annie Crawley. (pg. 56)

A diver observes plumose anemones at Edmonds Underwater Park and Marine Sanctuary.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3

Vineyards in the Red Mountain AVA stretch west to the Yakima River, beyond which rise the Rattlesnake Hills.

FEATURES AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022 • volume 32

50 Washington’s AVAs A guide to Washington’s wine regions and what you should know.

56

64

Sustainable Ocean Tourism

The Lives of Salmon

Four ways to explore the Pacific and inlets while learning conservation.

Jason Ching captured stunning images from Iliamna Lake in southwest Alaska, where he helped save the pristine area from mining.

written by Ellen Hiatt

photography by Jason Ching 4

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

Daniel O’Neil

written by Daniel O’Neil

DEPARTMENTS AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022 • volume 32

LIVE

72

14 SAY WA?

Ansel Adams exhibit in Seattle, Supercrush’s new album, Yakima wine tours, Sammamish Valley Fall Harvest.

18 FOOD + DRINK

Grays Harbor beer itinerary, best places for breakfast, Wild Sage Bistro in Spokane.

22 FARM TO TABLE

Marrionberries from Spooner Berry Farms. Savory marionberry recipes including the marionberry, burrata and prosciutto salad.

28 HOME + DESIGN

Two kitchen remodels that please. A Bellingham kitchen makeover that defies style classification and a Mukilteo breath of fresh air.

36 MIND + BODY

Tacoma’s Madonna Hanna took up sprinting at 57 and found gold.

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20

40 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Abstract painter Brian Sanchez finds interconnectedness.

THINK 44 STARTUP

Bamboo for the loo? This plant could save our forests.

45 WHAT’S GOING UP

Utilities, yes, are creating pollinator refuges.

46 MY WORKSPACE

Monteillet Fromagerie in Dayton is small-batch perfection.

48 GAME CHANGER

Jackie Dodd

Seattle’s Lambert House helps LGBTQ young people find community while building leadership, social and life skills.

EXPLORE 72 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

10 11 86 88

Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time

Palouse Falls is and artist’s dream and light show.

74 ADVENTURE

Open water swimming. Where and how to do it safely.

76 LODGING

Captain Whidbey Inn on Whidbey Island.

78 TRIP PLANNER

Bellingham: art, romance, open water and crafted beer.

84 NW DESTINATION

Vancouver, BC: Guided tours in a Canada’s most cultured city.

COVER

photo by Ben Herndon/TandemStock.com (see Sustainable Ocean Tourism in the Pacific, pg. 56)

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

Slots, craps, blackjack, roulette, bingo, weekend getaways, culinary artistry, live shows, dancing, sports, spa – whatever it is you want, you’ll find it here.

Get into everything at EverythingTulalip.com

CONTRIBUTORS

MAGGIE WAUKLYN Illustrator Home + Design DIY “An illustrator needs to be able to depict things accurately, but also elevate these things with a certain amount of style so they pop and also rest pleasingly in the minds of the viewer. This takes a great deal of doing one of my favorite things—sitting around and drawing plants. The natural features of the Pacific Northwest nurture my artistic soil in a way that nothing else does. The natural world is integral to my creativity. I am stifled within walls and wilt without enough air and light.” (pg. 32) Maggie Wauklyn is a freelance illustrator and full-time nature nerd. She lives and works in Portland.

8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

ELLEN HIATT Writer Sustainable Ocean Tourism in the Pacific

DANIEL O’NEIL Writer + Photographer A Guide to Washington’s Wine Terroir

“Annie Crawley always leaves me feeling deeply motivated, and incredibly grateful— grateful for this earth and the incredible ocean, and for her tireless efforts to motivate people to action and change.

Her energy, enthusiasm and tireless positivity are inspiring to me. Washington State is particularly blessed with our Deep Blue Spaces, and with so many opportunities to engage and appreciate them.” (pg. 56)

“While exploring Washington’s AVAs, I enjoyed the wine, the scenery and the subtleties that make each region distinct.

I’ve toured wine country along the West Coast as well as throughout Europe, but Washington’s wine industry especially stood out because of the people who make it happen. Down-to-earth, welcoming, proud, excited and eager to share: that sums up the men and women behind the Washington AVAs.” (pg. 50)

Ellen Hiatt is communications and development director of Skagitonians to Preserve Farmland and a writer with Hiatt Studios.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

Daniel O’Neil is a writer who has written about culture for publications including 1859, The Snowboarder’s Journal and the Sierra Club. He lives with his wife and daughter on the north Oregon Coast.

STEPHEN MATERA Photographer Mind + Body “Working with Madonna Hanna was a blast … even before the shoot began. In a quick phone call to plan the shoot, her positive energy was apparent and made shooting with her easy and fun. When you meet someone who’s enjoyment of life is so apparent, you can’t help but get caught up in that joy. I think that joy comes through in the photos from the shoot.” (pg. 36) Stephen Matera is a Seattlebased commercial and editorial outdoor lifestyle photographer, a father (two kids, a dog and two cats!), husband, outdoor explorer and adventurer. He is passionate and driven about creating photos—and about creating a message, a story and a feeling every time he picks up his camera.

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER OFFICE MANAGER DIRECTOR OF SALES BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Ellen Hiatt, Joni Kabana, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Dameon Pesanti, Ryn Pfeuffer, Lauren Purdy, Ben Salmon, Jonathan Shipley, James Sinks, Jen Sotolongo, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Richard Darbonne, Chris DiNottia, Jackie Dodd, Ben Herndon, Stephen Matera, Daniel O’Neil

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Maggie Wauklyn

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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9

FROM THE

EDITOR

THIS IS THE time of year we all hope (against hope) that wildfires will be inconsequential and merciful and allow us outdoors on forest floors, plunged in coastal waters, beneath blue skies, where we’ll end the day with a drink from Washington bounty and terroir.

Michael Stipe of R.E.M. crooned long ago in a song named “Swan Swan H” that “whiskey is water, the water is wine.” In this issue of 1889, we get to all three elements—whiskey, water and wine—in ways that only a publication that explores all of Washington can do.

Whiskey. In this issue’s Cocktail Card on page 18, we thread the needle between adult and kiddie beverages with the Woodinville Whiskey Shake from Hollywood Tavern in Woodinville. In the waning hot days of summer, your curiosity may kill your high standards for bourbon and make this your recovery after a challenging bike ride.

Water. Turn to page 74 to dive into our story on open water swimming in Washington’s bodies of water. Once you learn where and how to do this safely, you’ll begin to notice just what a gift this is. Enjoy it while we still can!

10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

Next, learn how to go about sustainable tourism when it comes to the Pacific and its Washington inlets with our feature on page 56 with tips from ocean advocate, oceanographer and diver Annie Crawley.

Coastal Bellingham is our Trip Planner (pg.

78) in this issue and offers more options for getting out on the water. Explore the Salish Sea by kayak with trained guides, and after that, take a seat at one of Bellingham’s many topnotch breweries.

Wine. Discover the many rich AVAs of Washington’s wine geography on page 50.

Learn what each is best known for and plan your next getaway around your favorite varietals or AVAs that specialize in a style you’d like to get to know better.

Little Hopper tours set a new road for Yakima Valley’s famous vineyards, where Bordeaux blends are to be swirled and tasted (pg. 14).

Finally, kick back with “I Can’t Stop (Loving You)” from Supercrush’s new album, SODO Pop. You’ll feel nostalgia and joy as time returns to you in these melodies.

1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience?

Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/ in-focus photo by Jeff Liska Sunrise on The Brothers, from Scenic Beach State Park on the Hood Canal.

SHOP LOCAL Stock up for summer adventures at our curated online shop of cool goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest.

Find outdoor gear, leather goods, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1889 T-shirts, hats and other apparel.

Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregon magazine.com/shop

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

URE T N E ADV AIL M SIGN UP FOR OUR NEWSLETTER More PNW, delivered to your inbox! Sign up for our Adventure Mail newsletter and get access to the latest Northwest getaways, giveaways, dining and more. www.1889mag.com/ 1889-newsletter

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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SAY WA? 14 FOOD + DRINK 18 FARM TO TABLE 22 HOME + DESIGN 28 MIND + BODY 36

pg. 36 Madonna Hanna found track and field later in life.

Nothing stands between her and the podium.

Stephen Matera

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 40

Fresh Hop Ale Festival

presented by Yakima Chief Hops

FEATURED WINE & BEER EVENTS SEPTEMBER 9 & 10 Hop Country Music Festival featuring Cody Swindell

OCTOBER 8 Fresh Hop Ale Festival

OCTOBER 8-9 Catch the Crush Weekend

Don’t miss live music in the vineyards

PLAN YOUR TRIP • visityakima.com

say wa?

Tidbits + To-dos written by Lauren Purdy

The Grapevine Wine Tours There’s no better way to close out a Pacific Northwest summer than touring Washington’s rolling wine country. Yakima’s Little Hopper— famous for its beer tours—now features a series of guided Yakima Valley wine tours by regional aficionados. Patrons have the option of booking group or private tours from Yakima, Zillah, Red Mountain and Prosser wineries renowned for their bold Bordeaux-style blends Fridays through Sundays.

For beer enthusiasts, there’s also plenty to explore as brewery tours reservations are available. m

calaerk your nda r Ansel Adams, courtesy of Museum of History and Industry

www.ridelittlehopper.com

Apolis Tea For husband and wife duo Audrey Paule and Alex Page, the history of tea is as much about innovation as it is about tradition. As founders and owners of Apolis Tea in Sumner, just about one hour South of Seattle, they are constantly on the lookout for new ingredients along with sourcing from biodynamic and organic farmers.

The couple also brings more than twenty-five years of tea industry expertise, and it shows through their curated selection of traditional loose leaf teas, such as single origin organic Egyptian Chamomile and house blends, like the Garden Mint, a fragrant melange of organic peppermint, lavender, spearmint, catmint and rosemary. Available for purchase in-store or online. www.apolistea.com

14 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Ansel Adams: Masterworks See the power of nature through the lens of America’s most revered natural photographer Ansel Adam at Seattle’s Museum of History and Industry now through September 5th. Ansel Adams profoundly influenced the course of twentieth century photography through the example of awe-inspiring landscape images, as well as by his devotion to advancing photography as an art form with his innovative approach. The exhibit features forty-eight hand-selected photographs that serve as a representation of what Adams deemed the best work of his career. Called “The Museum Set,” the featured photographs reveal the importance Adams placed on the power and beauty of the natural world. Tickets available online. www.mohai.org/exhibits/ansel-adams-masterworks

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

say wa?

Lakeside Relish the fresh flavors woven masterfully into a tasting menu featuring local delights, from handcrafted cocktails to seasonally inspired bites at South Lake Union’s Lakeside. Lakeside is the latest venture of Waterways Cruises and Events, a mainstay on Seattle’s Lakes and Puget Sound since 1994, which offers an assortment of dining cruises from brunch to wine tasting on Seattle’s many waterways. At monthly dinners and brunches, patrons can sit dockside and enjoy the work of culinary director, Trinity Mack. This is an immersive culinary experience that celebrates the flavors of the Pacific Northwest as well as highlights the scenic beauty of waterfront dining that will stun both visitors and locals.

Reservations available online. www.lakesideslu.com

camark y len our da r

Sammamish Valley Fall Harvest Celebration Celebrate the bounty of the growing season by exploring the beautiful Sammamish Valley during the Sammamish Valley Alliance’s annual Fall Harvest Celebration Saturday, September 24th. Opening for the first time since the pandemic, stop by an array of farm stands and local purveyors hosted in partnership with 21 Acres Center for Local Food & Sustainable Living. Visitors can also sign-up in advance for a farm walk, to discover the science behind sustainable agriculture, visit the farms’ many animals, organic fields, and solar-powered projects. www.sammamishvalley.org/fall-harvest-celebration-2022 Bill’s Berry Farm Apple Festival Savor the best of the state fruit of Washington at Bill’s Berry Farm’s Apple Festival nestled in the heart of the Yakima Valley.

Visitors can stroll through the orchids filled with u-pick crisp apples as well as peaches and raspberries, season permitting.

Make it a day by partaking in one of the farms’ activities including a custom workshop on how to squeeze your own cider, in which orchard staff guide participants step by step on how to render a 40 pound box of fresh apples into 3 gallons of crisp, fresh cider.

Open Labor Day and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. through the month of September, entry is free. www.billsberryfarm.com/activities/apple-festival

ur k yo r mar nda

cal

e

say wa?

Musician

Pursuing the Perfect Melody For Seattle power-pop band Supercrush, the magic emerges in the work written by Ben Salmon THE FIRST VERSE from the first song (“Get It Right”) on Supercrush’s debut album SODO Pop provides a sort of mission statement for the Seattle power-pop band: “I’ve played these chords a million times Somehow they still sound good to me when they sound There’s still something I’m trying to find ‘Cause there’s a perfect melody I haven’t found” That’s probably true. But it’s also true that SODO Pop is packed front to back with irresistible earworms that’ll work their way into your brain and stay there for a long, long time. Led by singer and songwriter Mark Palm, Supercrush is more adept than most bands at bringing together fuzzed-out electric guitars, snappy rock rhythms and melodies that are ultra-catchy and undeniably memorable. (Some might even describe them as “perfect.”)

“Writing the perfect pop song is absolutely a goal that I enjoy working toward,” Palm said. “It’s such a simple pursuit in a sense, but one could easily spend their entire life in pursuit of that simple idea and to me, that’s very exciting. I’ve been at it for a long time, and I never tire of chasing that goal.”

For years, Palm played in punk and metal acts, most notably the thrashy death metal band Black Breath. Eventually, though,

he wanted to return to the melodic sounds of the bands he fell in love with back in the ’90s like Nirvana, Sugar and Sloan, so he formed Supercrush and started releasing 7-inch singles, each containing two candy-coated power-pop songs. In 2018, he compiled those singles into a collection called Never Let You Drift Away and started working on SODO Pop, which was released in late 2020. An EP called Melody Maker, featuring songs recorded during the SODO Pop sessions, came out in June.

Supercrush’s prolific output isn’t the result of some generous muse, but Palm’s organized approach to songwriting, his hyperattention to detail and his dedication to his craft. He’s a firm believer that making great music does not necessarily require inexplicable genius, but it can be achieved through hard work and determination.

“There’s this notion of great art as being the result of some kind of divine inspiration, or the idea of the artist as a conduit for some sort of mysterious artistic brilliance that appears as if from thin air,” he said. “Those are romantic notions to be sure, and I can get into those sorts of ideas at times, but I also really like the idea of art and songwriting as a trade essentially.”

Once musicians have learned the skills of the trade, he said, they can apply them at will. “Cabinetmakers can make quality woodworking when they choose,” he observed. “Power-pop songwriting can be the same. Once you’ve developed that skill and learned the craft you can just get to work with the raw materials of Listen on Spotify song structure. You don’t have to wait around for a stroke of genius from on high. I suppose I like going to work—at least with regard to making music.”

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Che Hise-Gattone

Supercrush’s new album SODO Pop brings melody and memorable tunes back to the fore.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

Isaac Hosey

say wa?

Bibliophile

Laura Braden’s 52 Shades of Nature inspires us all to get outdoors for many pursuits—from crabbing to sledding.

52 Shades of Nature Discover new ways to embrace outdoor adventures interview by Cathy Carroll

52 WAYS to Nature: Washington by Seattle’s Lauren Braden offers accessible adventures for every season. Her outdoor pursuits are designed to engage visitors, locals, neophytes and veterans, be it geocaching in your neighborhood, crabbing on Hood Canal, gazing at the northern lights through a telescope or sledding at Mount Rainier National Park.

Journaling prompts will spark creativity, too.

What experiences surprised you with the biggest rewards for the effort?

When I think of big reward for little effort, a guided river rafting trip comes to mind. Pick an outfitter with a stellar safety record and a river with Class II or III rapids, and you just show up, no prior experience necessary (though you should know how to swim).

They’ll start with a short lesson on dry land, then within an hour, your adrenaline is pumping and you splash and glide through the rapids in deep wilderness. There are few nature adventures that offer such an intense, multi-sensory experience for so little planning or work.

In my experience, there is one outdoor adventure worth the big effort, and that’s wilderness backpacking. I love to go out for a whole week up

in the North Cascades. You have to plan all your meals carefully and pack as lightly as you can, and it’s hard work on the knees to hike up and down a few thousand feet every day. And you do get a bit stinky without a shower so it’s nice to plan a route that stops at clear mountain lakes for a swim. But the payoff is unparalleled as you transition into a calm and peaceful state of mind after a few days up in that granite paradise. There’s nothing else like it.

What are some things in the book that a veteran outdoors person may not have done?

I think an avid outdoorsy person could find their new favorite hobby in 52 Ways to Nature—maybe it’s birdwatching or stargazing or foraging for mushrooms. Let’s say you’re

already a frequent hiker. The book is loaded with activities you can add on to your hikes. Knowing a bit about wild foraging can turn an early summer hike into a berry-picking party.

When you’re on a forest trail, make the effort to find signs that wild animals are nearby, from bear tracks in the mud to a beaver den. If you hear a bird song you don’t know, take a break and figure out what it is—you can even pull out your phone to record the song to take it home with you. If you’re going to be camping, borrow a friend’s telescope for your trip and take advantage of the dark skies to see the stars of the Milky Way. This book gives you lots of opportunities to tap into your innate curiosity for nature. … Ever explored a tidepool, dug for razor clams, soaked in a mountain hot spring, or been on ice skates? I wrote about these adventures with a total novice in mind, so it’s easy to get started.

Tell us about the book’s journaling prompts.

Each adventure includes a “nature notebook” prompt with the space to scrawl away right in the book to get creative juices flowing and help create a memory of your nature experience. “What is the oddest critter you found in a tidepool? Describe it in vivid detail.” These prompts push you just a bit to be present, to really notice things. Some of them prod you into action to protect our planet.

Our glaciers are disappearing, and in the “Hike to a Glacier” adventure you’re asked to list a few things you pledge to do in order to help curb the pace of global warming and save our glaciers.

Personally, I find the most inspiration for my own nature journaling when on a beach, listening to the waves and the gulls. It’s why I live just a few blocks from the Salish Sea, to visit it nearly every day. If you ever see me at Seattle’s Lincoln Park, stop and say hello!

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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food + drink Grays Harbor and Aberdeen are becoming escapes for Seattleites who love seafood and craft beer.

Mount Olympus Brewing plays a key role in the latter.

Beervana

Beer on the Beach

Where to drink in Grays Harbor written and photographed by Jackie Dodd

BLAME IT ON Seattleites rushing to beach towns during the pandemic, or the prolific mollusk and crustacean fishing in the area, or even the impressive expanse of sand covered beaches that have Grays Harbor becoming a Washington getaway destination quickly rising in the ranks of the best places to spend a holiday weekend. As you can expect, the beer is also rising with the tide that is bringing in the tourists. While you may be considering the location for other reasons, namely the world-class crab, oyster, and razor clam recreational harvesting, or the rare sight or uninterrupted miles of actual sandy Pacific Northwest beaches, but you will surely stay for the beer.

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Hollywood Tavern / WOODINVILLE

Woodinville Whiskey Shake 18

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

• 1½ ounces Woodinville Whiskey bourbon • ½ ounce Hershey’s chocolate syrup

No matter where in Washington you’re traveling from, you will almost certainly find a path to the beach through Aberdeen, which also happens to be the best place to start your harbor-beer-drinking journey. This little flannel-clad area of the state is home to not one, but two outstanding breweries. Mount Olympus Brewing is quickly becoming a hub for social activities in this tiny but storied town. With a healthy rotation of diverse beers, a full kitchen, as well as continuously updating social events that range

• Half of a soft banana • 13 ounce of mixed vanilla soft serve

Add ingredients to a mixing tin. Mix thoroughly and add to 16-ounce mason jar. Top with chopped roasted peanuts.

Note: If you do not have soft serve mix or access to a soft serve machine, substitute vanilla ice cream mixed with some whole milk, to bring it to milkshake consistency.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

food + drink

Steam Donkey Brewing in Aberdeen is a small respite from the crowds and a taproom with awardwinning beers.

GRAYS HARBOR ITINERARY MOUNT OLYMPUS BREWING

105 W. Heron St., Aberdeen www.mountolympusbrewing.com What to Know: • Kid- and dog-friendly • Patio seating • Full kitchen

STEAM DONKEY BREWING

101 E. Wishkah St., Aberdeen www.steamdonkeybrewing.com

from animal adoption parties to grunge album listening sessions, it always seems as though Mount Olympus has something new and exciting to offer. Just a few blocks away is Steam Donkey Brewing, the older of the Aberdeen beer siblings but the smaller of the two. Steam Donkey is more or less just a taproom with a few seats, but the beer has won several awards, and there seems to always be a food truck right outside. It’s worth the stop to sample what they have to offer.

From there, you need to make a choice.

You either take the northern route to travel west to Ocean Shores, or you can take the southern route to Westport.

Let’s start with the north route. As you make your way along the long and winding road towards the coast, you won’t go more than a few miles before your next stop: Hoquiam Brewing, a small but growing entity that’s become a cornerstone of the small town’s social scene. The beer selection continues to grow and improve, and the kitchen offers tasty pizza with vegetarian and gluten-free options.

If you continue along with your sights set on the sea and your destination pinned on Ocean Shores, your next stop won’t be a brewery but a satellite taproom. Although Elkhead Brewing is located in Buckley, they’ve opened a small taphouse in Ocean Shores worth a visit.

Other than a hard-to-read sign, the only indication that you’re in the right place will be bold letters on the eaves that spell out FRESH BEER. It’s a beer-only

joint, so the acquisition of your favorite fermented beverage will have to be the focus of your visit. Your next location is only a few blocks away and along your route there you will find Bennett’s Fish Shack, the perfect place to stop in between beer destinations for the best crab cakes and fish ‘n chips around as well as a decent selection of both craft beer as well as craft soda. The last stop of the Ocean Shores beer tour will be Ocean Pours, a taproom a little more than a block away.

With a dozen and a half taps featuring beer from all over the world but with a heavy focus on the Pacific Northwest, this stop should make the list of any beer lover who finds their way to this part of Washington’s coast. Ocean Pours offers a small selection of pub grub as well as weekly events to keep you coming back.

Let’s back up and say we took the other road out of Aberdeen, let’s go south this time. As you make your way into Westport, arguably the most underrated Washington beach town, you’ll end your journey at Blackbeard Brewing, a mainstay in this sleepy little town and a local favorite. Blackbeard Brewing offers two locations, the original is larger, and the offerings include not just solid beers, but also a full kitchen, making it a must-visit if you’re in town. Blackbeard also opened a taphouse this year along the water on Westhaven Drive that serves beer, cider, craft soda, coffee, and tacos and an excellent location to end your beer-by-thebeach journey.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

What to Know: • Kid- and dog-friendly • No kitchen • Outside food welcome

HOQUIAM BREWING 526 8th St., Hoquiam www.hoquiambrews.com What to Know: • Kid-friendly • Full kitchen

BLACKBEARD BREWING

700 W. Ocean Ave., Westport, and 2401 Westhaven Dr., Westport www.blackbeardsbrewing.com What to Know: • Kid- and dog-friendly • Patio • Full kitchen

OCEAN POURS TAPROOM 759 Ocean Shores Blvd. NW, Ocean Shores www.oceanpourstaproom.com What to Know: • Patio seating • Dog-friendly • Small food menu

ELKHEAD TAPROOM

39 Point Brown Ave. NW, Ocean Shores www.facebook.com/ elkheadtaproom What to Know: • 21 and over • No kitchen

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19

Lady Yum

food + drink

CRAVINGS PUPUSAS There’s a lot to love at this family-owned hole-in-thewall restaurant in Wenatchee, but there’s also a reason they are known for their pupusas. They stuff a handmade corn tortilla with a custom blend of cheese, meat, beans, zucchini, spinach and jalapeños, according to your preference. You’ll probably need more than one.

119 PALOUSE ST. WENATCHEE Tropical Salvadoreño on Facebook

BAGELS Andy Urbach is a corrections officer with the San Juan County Sheriff’s office by day and a baker at night.

Though he’s been baking for nearly two decades on San Juan Island, 2021 was his year for getting serious about bagels, resulting in a series of successful pop ups. While he’s hoping to eventually open a brink and mortar location, the best way to find his bagels for now is by keeping a sharp eye on social media.

POPUP LOCATIONS FRIDAY HARBOR OldTown BagelCo on Facebook

PIZZA

Gastronomy

Megan Wagstaff quit her job at a wealth management firm to pursue her passion of baking and founded Lady Yum in 2014.

Lady Yum written by Cara Strickland

There weren’t a lot of restaurant options in Lake Forest Park when friends Margaret Edwins and Tony Vujovich converted a corner convenience store into an upscale pizza place with a relaxed vibe, thirty rotating taps, and a variety of seasonal salads, sandwiches, small plates and cocktails. Dine indoors or out, and bring your family (even your puppies are welcome for outdoor dining). Don’t let the chill vibe fool you though—they use cold fermentation with beer rather than water to create a unique crust, a process that takes ten days.

MEGAN WAGSTAFF always loved baking, but at first she didn’t think of it as a career path. Still, with a job as an operations manager for a wealth management firm, she wasn’t finding the professional fulfillment she sought. She quit her job in a leap of faith to pursue her passion as a job, one thing led to another, and in 2014, she opened the first location of Lady Yum in Kirkland—a sparkly shop with a luxe Parisian feel perfectly complementing the handcrafted macarons and champagne offerings. Now, she has five greater Seattle locations, intent on the same concepts of affordable luxury and indulgence. If you can’t make it into a brick and mortar store, you’ll be happy to know they ship nationwide. You’ll find at least twenty flavors daily, with a mix of always available classics and new creations. Don’t miss the salted caramel or the lemon flavors.

18498 BALLINGER WAY NE LAKE FOREST PARK www.thelocal104.com

5 SEATTLE-AREA LOCATIONS SHIPPING NATIONWIDE www.ladyyum.com

636 FRONT ST. D LEAVENWORTH www.viscontis.com/viadolce

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GELATO Since 2005, the team at Visconti’s has been perfecting their housemade gelato and sorbetto, which they make daily. The flavors are always changing, based on the season and the new ideas they want to try, though they do have some favorites. Whether it’s a bracing blood orange, or a local berry confection, you can top it with fruit, nuts or sauces, have it in a cone or bowl or have it blended into a milkshake. Either way, it’s hard to go wrong.

BEST PLACES FOR

BREAKFAST BACON & EGGS With a mix of Mexican-inspired favorites, classic breakfast items, killer cocktails and great coffee, this is your one-stop-shop for the morning hours in Walla Walla. Don’t sleep on the stuffed brioche French toast with Nutella and bananas, the lox Benedict, or the Texas eggs.

Photos: Wild Sage Bistro

food + drink

57 E. MAIN ST. WALLA WALLA www.baconandeggswallawalla.com

NEW MOON COOPERATIVE CAFE This spot focuses on classics done well, with the best local ingredients they can find.

You’ll find an array of omelette options, pancakes in all shapes and forms, Benedicts and scrambles. There’s plenty on offer for the gluten free, vegan, and vegetarians among you, and a variety of kids items, so everyone can enjoy a meal together.

113 4TH AVE. W. OLYMPIA www.newmooncafe.coop

ITALIA TRATTORIA Weekend brunch at Italia is the place to be—whether you’re in the mood for a cocktail or an espresso, you’ll be eager to pair it with savory and sweet specialties such as an herb and goat cheese omelette, or a freshly baked almond roll, with crispy roasted rosemary potatoes on the side.

144 SOUTH CANNON ST. SPOKANE www.italiatrattoriaspokane.com

Wild Sage Bistro of Spokane has all of the charm for date night and the haute cuisine to back it up.

Dining

Wild Sage Bistro written by Cara Strickland

You can stay overnight at this charming B&B in Yakima, but you don’t have to book the bed to join them for breakfast at the country cafe. Enjoy breakfast daily with classic offerings like a ham scramble or a piping hot bowl of oatmeal, all garnished with a dusting of powdered sugar, or check out their seasonal specials for the flavor of the moment.

IN AN UNASSUMING downtown building, you’ll find Wild Sage Bistro, a mainstay of Spokane’s culinary scene since 2006. Their goal is “comfortable fine dining,” and they take each of those words seriously. The original executive chef was passionate about serving diners with special diets—a legacy that the restaurant still upholds (call a few days in advance, and they are happy to accommodate, if there isn’t already something suitable on the menu). Enjoy a classic like the Yukon taquitos—rich with cheese and creamy potatoes, along with the complimentary mini popovers served with lavender honey butter. Try the pork tenderloin, a dish they are known for, or one of the seasonal specials. While this is a classic date and celebration spot, it’s also the perfect way to infuse a little luxury into a regular evening, and the perfect addition before a show.

3602 KERN ROAD YAKIMA www.whitehouseinyakima.com

916 W. 2ND AVE. SPOKANE www.wildsagebistro.com

WHITE HOUSE IN YAKIMA

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farm to table

Farm to Table

Marionberry Magic Marking the apex of summer sweetness at Washington farms and fruit stands written by Corinne Whiting photography by Richard Darbonne THIS YEAR, Sue and Tim Spooner are celebrating the fortieth year of their family-owned Olympia farm, Spooner Berry Farms, where they grow marionberries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries.

By the time the Spooners married in 1980, Tim had farmed strawberries and raspberries with his dad since he was a teen.

The couple began producing strawberries to sell with the help of a little Jeep, a borrowed utility trailer and a handmade sign.

In their second season, they decided to set up an official berry stand. “It started very innocently and turned into every summer,” Sue said.

The pair now owns a 200-acre farm, and leases additional land from neighbors’ plots. Every variety they now grow, is backed by research seeking the sweetest option of that berry.

For example, when Tim suggested adding blueberries to the lineup, Sue gave him the challenge of finding an “unbelievably sweet” candidate, which he discovered after nearly a decade of digging.

When their marionberries reach a pretty good size and are ripe, “they almost melt,” Sue said. This terroir for the berries closely resembles vineyards with thorny vines wrapped around wires “like artwork,” she observed.

But art takes time. Sue admits that growing berries is a lot of work, and it’s all done by hand. Indeed, Spooner Berry Farms picks its berries 100 percent fresh every day since its model is built around the berries being sold the same day. The work commences at 5 a.m. daily, with nineteen vans then pulling into the fields to load fresh berries. The drivers cycle through in fifteen-minute intervals to disperse goods to the various stands. A couple hours later, they make additional trips, so that berries are delivered fresh all day long. “We’re not raising berries for shelf life,” Sue said. “We’re raising for flavor.”

Since all berries get picked at the peak of their flavor, they last four to five days if refrigerated, even longer if they’re frozen or preserved with sugar. “The sooner you can put them in the fridge,” she advised, “the longer they will last.” If, however, you keep the berries on the counter, she warned, they’ll continue ripening. Home chefs and bakers will love learning that marionberries can be swapped into most recipes that call for blackberries.

“We really do take pride in the quality of the berries we’re putting out there,” Spooner said. “It is so rewarding for us when the season is on, for 22 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Sue Spooner and her husband, Tim, grow marionberries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries on their family-owned Olympia farm, Spooner Berry Farms.

farm to table

“We’re not raising berries for shelf life. We’re raising for flavor.”

— Sue Spooner, of Spooner Berry Farms, on picking their berries fresh daily

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farm to table

everyone to be so excited to see us come back. We feel a commitment to the communities we’ve been bringing berries to for so many years.”

Some employees, who Spooner considers family, have been working on the couple’s farm for thirty-plus years. This includes loyal school teachers and bus drivers who have pitched in during their summers off or even after they’ve retired.

The farm currently runs twelve berry barns in locations from Yelm and Shelton to Aberdeen and Seattle’s Wedgwood neighborhood. Sue is frank about having reached capacity at present for the number of stands they keep in operation. “Bigger isn’t always better,” she said. No matter the locale, shoppers won’t want to miss the farm’s berry honey, a bestseller thanks to the beekeeper who brings 400 hives to the farm each year when the blossoms begin to come in.

Marionberries typically peak from mid-July through midAugust. This year, the fields look amazing, and the plants had responded well to the cooler, wetter spring weather, Sue said during a May interview. The berries may need a bit more time to ripen this season, as a result, she said.

Chefs like Eli Dahlin, owner of Seattle eatery Light Sleeper, love working marionberries into their recipes whenever possible. Dahlin, who changes his menu daily, typically sources his marionberries from Tonnemaker Valley Farm in Royal City.

His advice after many years in the kitchen? “They’re a pretty straightforward fruit,” he said. “I would suggest, though, that they be stored in a single layer on a sheet pan, as they are very delicate and perishable and tend to mold if clumped together.”

No matter how you serve and savor these coveted berries, there’s arguably no sweeter sign of Pacific Northwest summer.

“We really do take pride in the quality of the berries we’re putting out there. It is so rewarding for us when the season is on, for everyone to be so excited to see us come back. We feel a commitment to the communities we’ve been bringing berries to for so many years.”

— Sue Spooner, of Spooner Berry Farms 24 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Marionberries typically peak from mid-July through mid-August.

farm to table

ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A roadside stand nearby sells fresh Spooner berries. Tim Spooner, co-owner of Spooner Berry Farms. A beekeeper tends to bees on the farm, which help pollinate the berries and produce the farm’s best-selling berry honey. In this building, berry pickers box up berries and prepare them for delivery by van to various fruit stands. Sue Spooner picks a handful of fresh strawberries.

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Marionberry, Burrata and Prosciutto Salad

Bourbon Steak / SEATTLE Chef Megan Vaughan

Crafted’s TempuraFried White Sturgeon with Marionberry Chili Crisp. (photo: Crafted)

Washington Recipes

The Savory Marionberry Tempura-Fried White Sturgeon with Marionberry Chili Crisp Crafted / YAKIMA Chef Dan Koommoo

FOR STURGEON • 16 ounces Yakama Nation White Sturgeon, large dice • 2 ounces fresh basil leaves • 2 ounces fresh mint leaves • 2 ounces fresh cilantro • 1 each shallot, thinly sliced • 6 each marionberry, cut in half

FOR TEMPURA BATTER Sift flour and corn starch together. Mix water, soda and egg together. Slowly add flour to the mixture and lightly whip.

Leave some lumps; do not over-whip.

FOR MARIONBERRY CHILI CRISP Place red pepper, gochugaru, garlic, cilantro, miso and marionberries in a small pot.

In a separate pot, heat oil on medium for 2 minutes. Pour hot oil over ingredients in the first pot. (Be careful as it might pop and sizzle.)

Once sizzling has stopped, add honey, soy sauce and salt. Stir well.

FOR TEMPURA BATTER • 1 ounce corn starch • 5 ounces cake flour • 7 ounces cold water • 3½ ounces club soda • 1 each egg FOR MARIONBERRY CHILI CRISP • 2 tablespoons crushed red pepper • 2 tablespoons gochugaru • 2 tablespoons garlic, chopped • 3 tablespoons cilantro, chopped • 6 marionberries, cut in half • 1 tablespoon miso • ½ cup oil • 2 tablespoons honey • 1 tablespoon soy sauce • ½ teaspoon salt

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FOR STURGEON In a cast iron, slowly heat 2 inches of peanut oil to 325 degrees. Dip diced sturgeon into tempura batter and lightly fry, for 6 minutes or until golden brown with an internal temperature of 165 degrees. Remove the fish carefully, drain on a paper towel and lightly salt with kosher salt.

To plate, toss fried fish with basil, shallots, mint, cilantro and marionberries.

Spoon marionberry chili crisp over the dish or serve on the side. Enjoy as is or with a side of jasmine rice.

For even more marionberry, try Light Sleeper’s recipe for Beet and Parsley Salad with Marionberry Vinaigrette, available at www.1889mag.com/recipes/beet-and-parsley-salad

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FOR MARIONBERRY PUREE • 1 cup red wine • 1 cup port • 1 star anise • 1 cinnamon stick • 4 cups marionberry • Salt, pepper and sugar to taste FOR PLATING • 1 slice prosciutto • 4 ounces burrata • Olive oil • Basil or microbasil • Saba or balsamic vinegar • Maldon salt FOR MARIONBERRY PUREE Add red wine, port, star anise, cinnamon stick to pot over medium heat. Reduce wine and port until alcohol is cooked out (should be syrup-like consistency), 20 to 25 minutes.

Once the alcohol is cooked out, remove star anise and cinnamon stick. Add marionberries and cook out liquid from berries (reserve a couple raw for plating).

Season with salt, pepper and sugar.

Add mixture to Vitamix, and blend until smooth. Cool mixture down.

TO PLATE Take the reserved marionberries, season with olive oil, salt and pepper, and char on grill to get smokey flavor.

On the stovetop fry prosciutto until crispy and golden brown, about 5 minutes at 350 degrees.

Cut burrata into two pieces. Season with olive oil and salt and pepper.

Brush marionberry puree onto plate.

Place seasoned burrata on purée, followed by grilled marionberries and crispy prosciutto.

Garnish salad with torn basil leaves or microbasil. Finish with olive oil and saba or balsamic vinegar on salad and around the plate. Top with a pinch of finishing sea salt or Maldon.

Photos: Chris DiNottia

home + design

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home + design

ABOVE The kitchen has four unconnected countertops for culinary work space. AT LEFT Built around a beautiful LaCanche range, the kitchen is designed for the home chef.

Everything, and the Kitchen Sink Remodels bring these two Washington kitchens up to scratch written by Melissa Dalton

Bellingham: A nondescript 1977 kitchen gets a considered makeover In general, principal interior designer Michelle Banks likes to start a remodel by heeding the existing house. “Normally we would approach a project by trying to listen to what the house is wanting or needing out of its architecture,” said Banks, who leads Spiral Studios, a full-service interior design firm in Bellingham. But having been built in a particularly blah period of interiors in the late 1970s, this Lake Padden-area home didn’t have much to say. “It just missed Mid-century style,” said Banks. “That meant we were left with a blank slate.”

While Banks helped the homeowners spruce up the home’s entire floorplan, as avid home cooks, they were especially passionate about the kitchen’s transformation.

Working with contractor Ethos West, Banks started by co-opting a small mudroom to enlarge the kitchen’s overall footprint to 260 square feet in the almost 1,600-squarefoot home. “The client really knew what he

wanted in terms of workflow,” said Banks.

“So, we created a four-piece kitchen where no counters are connecting, and every element has its own workstation.”

Now, a substantial central island holds the center, complete with abundant storage, seating on one side, and no sink to impede prep, per the clients’ request. On one wall, the sink is centered underneath a new window, flanked on one side by an appliance garage, and on the other by the coffee station. Opposite, a wall of custom cabinetry surrounds the refrigerator, forms an entry bench by the back door, and stores pantry goods and cleaning supplies.

With the kitchen open to the rest of the home, Banks styled the back wall as a focal point, with a lovely stone slab backsplash, plaster hood vent tucked between two floating oak shelves, and brass sconces for atmospheric lighting, all to highlight the beautiful

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Chris DiNottia

FROM LEFT The remodel’s biggest coup was the Sherwin Williams Smoky Blue Azuritepainted cabinets. Glass shelving permits light and views and offsets the refrigerator. Even the coffee station gets a nicely tucked home.

Chris DiNottia

Chris DiNottia

LaCanche range below. Banks also replaced the back door with a streamlined, full glass version, then balanced it on the other side with a full-height window, for both symmetry and more natural light.

In terms of style, Banks calls the scheme “Modern Eclectic.”

The owners’ tastes skewed traditional, as seen in picks like the painted Shaker cabinets and brass hardware, but Banks paired those components with contemporary treatments, like the waterfall quartz on the kitchen island and white oak cabinetry on one wall. “The highly edited selections make it feel more modern, even though a lot of the elements are actually pretty traditional,” said Banks. “I think it was a really effective way of treating the house because of its smaller scale. Doing too many things would have made the house feel too busy.”

Mukilteo: Brilliant blue cabinets bring good looks and better function

ABOVE, FROM TOP One addition was a framed glass door, to bring in light and connect with the outdoors. Shaker cabinets ground the kitchen in tradition and simplicity. The style of the kitchen spans modern and traditional with natural wood accents.

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The phrase “Waste not, want not” typically refers to food, but can just as easily apply to the kitchen it’s cooked in. Such was the case for this kitchen in Mukilteo, a city 25 miles north

John Granen

John Granen

John Granen

home + design

of Seattle. At 299 square feet, the room was plenty big enough for the homeowners, but with too much wasted space, wasn’t living up to its full potential. A corner sink didn’t have enough counter for dishes to stack around it. The cooktop hogged the peninsula, taking space from diners, with a pot rack overhead gathering dust. And there was a good two-and-a-half-feet of empty wall unused.

“We stayed within the existing footprint,” said lead designer Erica Davidson, who worked with designer Anna Popov, founder of Interiors by Popov, and the homeowners, on the ensuing overhaul. “There was dead space that wasn’t being used properly. So, when we redesigned it, we were able to create a lot more function and use every inch possible.” Now, a much-larger, apron-front sink has been relocated to a longer stretch of counter under a window. The stove sits against a back wall to make its own pretty vignette, and the designers lengthened the peninsula to create more prep space.

While there was much to eliminate, there were also key aspects of the room that needed to be kept, like the tall, sloping ceiling clad in tongue and groove wood, and a band of windows with gorgeous views of the Puget Sound. “That was

one of the obstacles that we were facing,” said Davidson of the windows. “Because there’s a whole wall and corner that you cannot necessarily use, and you don’t want to block it.” The answer was to anchor the opposite side of the room with taller storage and the built-in refrigerator, and design a floating glass shelf over one window for quick grab items and display.

That, Davidson said, balances out the stove hood.

For finishes, the designers chose slate tile floors and a quartz counter, both with understated veining. But the star might be the custom cabinets painted Sherwin Williams Smoky Azurite. Not only is blue the owner’s favorite color, but every single kitchen item, from small appliances to the smallest spice jar, has been assigned a place.

“We take inventory of the client’s things,” said Davidson.

“Every drawer has a purpose.”

With the room’s reinvention, now the attention can go, not to cluttered counters, but to the views of the water outside, something the designers encouraged in the subtlest of ways.

“That’s not your typical subway backsplash,” said Davidson.

“It has a little bit of texture and movement, so it mimics the water and acts as a reflection of it.”

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home + design

DIY: Window Box for Herbs

illustrations by Maggie Wauklyn

HAVING FRESH HERBS on hand is a boon for cooks. While growing herbs in pots on the kitchen counter or backyard patio is always an option, an exterior wall-mounted window box can save space. Consider this an easy project for construction novices to tackle in a weekend.

GET AN OVERVIEW Locate the window that will host the box, making sure to evaluate its light exposure. Too much sun means the plants can fry; too little, and they won’t grow strong enough. Measure the width of the window. This will be the length of the window box, and its mounting strip. Note: To prevent the wood of your window box from rotting over time, consider buying a plastic insert, in which case all measurements will need to accommodate its size.

MAKE THE CUTS The window box will have three long pieces for two of the sides and the bottom, and two shorter pieces, for the shallow sides. Cut 1x8 cedar boards (like cedar fencing) into three pieces the length of the window. Next cut a 1x8 into two pieces to the desired depth of the window box, which will probably be about 6 inches long.

Next, use a cedar 2x2, and cut four support pieces for the box’s

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interior corners. Each of these pieces will sit inside the corner and be flush with the top of the box.

Last, cut a pressure treated 2x4 to the same length as the window box. This will be the mounting strip.

ATTACH THE MOUNTING STRIP Using galvanized, exterior-rated wood screws, mount the strip to the exterior wall. Use a screw that’s long enough to clear the wood and reach into the wall securely.

BUILD THE BOX Lay down the board that will be the bottom of the box. Line up the two long sides, with the bottom flush between them. Attach with exterior-rated wood screws in the corners and along the base. Slot the short pieces in on either end.

Fasten at each corner with screws.

Set the shorter 2x2 pieces, one in each corner. Secure in place. Drill drainage holes in the bottom.

MOUNT THE BOX + ADD SUPPORTS Secure the window box to the mounting strip.

With the added weight of the soil and plants, and given the longer length of the box, it may sag without additional supports. Measure from the front of the box to the wall. Depending on the length of your box, cut two or three wall support pieces at a 45-degree angle on either end. Attach each to the box and wall.

FINISH Cut trim pieces to size and attach to the box exterior using finishing nails. Cover any visible holes with wood filler and lightly sand. Prime and paint the box with exteriorrated paint, so the box matches the house’s trim color.

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GROW Fill with soil and preferred seasonings—our favorites are oregano, which is versatile and grows easily, and trailing Nasturtiums, a fun edible flower to spruce up a salad.

we took the time for our refresh.

now it’s your turn!

GO BEYOND THE MASK Tickets at BeyondKingTut.com OPENS OCTOBER 2022

home + design

Set the Table Mix artsy goods with big box finds Whether pouring wine or water, pick up a few Crystal Cups for a real conversation starter. Designed and handmade by glass artist Lynn Read of Vitreluxe in Portland, Oregon, they’re both functional and beautiful.

The textured facets feel good in hand, and any one of the nine hues will look good on the table. www.vitreluxe.com

Pillar, a sweet little home goods shop in Portland, Oregon, is run by Kira Corbin, a prop stylist, making it a delightful place to peruse online or in person. These handmade ceramic candle holders are low profile, but pack a lot of casual style. Available in three glazes. www.pillarhomegoods.com

The Matthew Mudcloth Runner by Leanne Ford for Crate & Barrel has a lot going for it. At 108 inches, it’s long enough to fit bigger tables. Pintucks and the handspun cotton yarn give it a lovely texture, and the creamy color is neutral enough to handle an array of colorful accents. Best yet, it can be thrown in the washer and dryer when dinner’s done. www.crateandbarrel.com 34

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Olympic National Park • Pacific Beaches & Hoh Rain Forest Wild & Scenic Rivers • Kalaloch Beach • Historic Towns

From Sea - to -Summit & Canal - to - Coast Four Seasons

Port LudLow Port HadLock Chimacum

Adventures for All

Jefferson County - the Heart of the Olympics www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com 360-437-0120

Start your Journey at the

Olympic Penisula Gateway Visitors Center The “Log Cabin” at Hwy’s 104 & 19

mind + body

Madonna Hanna is not a stranger to the podium and sets her sights on more medals.

Life is a Sprint Madonna Hanna took a long path to finding her running passion written by Jonathan Shipley photography by Stephen Matera “IMAGINE, I WOKE UP one day with an overwhelming desire to run 100 meters,” Madonna Hanna said. “It’s a sport in which I had absolutely no prior experience.” Growing up she didn’t play sports. She watched football. She liked watching the Olympics. She played a little tennis as an adult, but being an athlete was not her path in life. As a fashion marketing teacher, she was closer to the runway than to running. One day, though, she discovered she was a good runner right out of the chute. Hanna, a resident of Tacoma, entered the Washington State Senior Games in 2011. She was 57 and had never competed before. She won the gold medal for the 100 meter. She also took home the gold for the 50 meter. She continued her running dreams and 36 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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mind + body

With coaching from Marcus Chambers, Hanna has become the woman to beat in the 100.

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mind + body

Madonna Hanna Competitive Sprinter

Age: 68 Born: Pensacola, Florida Residence: Tacoma

WORKOUT “I train with Coach Marcus Chambers, in- person, one hour a week. The rest of the week I follow the regime he designed for me: Two days a week at the gym starting with 10 minutes of rowing.

Hamstring curls, quad extensions, glute extensions, tricep pull downs, bicep curls, back rows, dumbbell arm swings, pushing a sled, track drills and more.”

NUTRITION “For breakfast, egg white omelet with kale, spinach, mushrooms, onions, and turkey bacon. Smoothies.

For lunch, pasta with salmon or tuna. For dinner, salmon, chicken, or turkey with a leafy green vegetable and rice.”

INSPIRATIONS “1964 Olympic gold medalist, Wyomia Tyus; and Allyson Felix, track and field GOAT!”

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Madonna Hanna warms up while training at a track in Tacoma.

next year, at 68, is heading to Pittsburgh for the National Senior Games and compete in the 50 meter, 100 meter, and 4x100 relay. Her legs may be light but her neck may be weighted with new medals.

“I will continue to race as long as I’m healthy,” she said. It’s been a long road since that epiphany to start running. A car crash prevented her from running a race for three years. She ruptured her Achilles’ tendon in the accident and the recovery took a long while. Her strength back, Hanna returned to the racing circuit, entering the 2017 Washington State Senior Games. She won two more gold medals. She was back.

Tragedy struck again. In 2018, her husband and track mentor, died of cancer after a valiant fight. It was his wish for Hanna to continue running and to qualify for the 2019 National Senior Games that year in Albuquerque. She qualified and fulfilled her husband’s dying wish.

She has stayed on track ever since. She found a new coach, Marcus Chambers. Chambers earned All-American honors as a track and field star at the University of Oregon, propelling the team to five NCAA national titles.

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Chambers himself, also a resident of Tacoma, is hoping for a gold medal. He’s an Olympichopeful in the 400 meters and is training for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.

Chambers motivates Hanna, and Hanna motivates Chambers. “Marcus has pledged to coach me until I hang up my spikes,” said Hanna.

“Now, that’s commitment!” Those spikes are still quite sharp. “I want to break world records!”

“Imagine, I woke up one day with an overwhelming desire to run 100 meters. It’s a sport in which I had absolutely no prior experience.”

— Madonna Hanna, sprinter

Your Guide to the best Lodging, Dining, Shopping and Activities near the Nisqually entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park Mt. Rainier Visitor Association 2022

Artist Expresses the Yin and Yang of Raw Emotion Pure abstractionist Brian Sanchez—a vessel that channels interconnectedness written by Ellen Hiatt

Brian Sanchez

THE WORKS of Seattle artist Brian Sanchez manage to pluck emotion’s strings without playing the notes of sentimentality, drawing you in to understand, to listen, to hear.

“My main goal is to welcome curiosity,” he said.

Sanchez is a pure abstractionist, using the Color Field style of large, solid blocks to create visual interest without evoking a recognizable object. It’s color, line, composition, ideas and a lot of feeling. Maybe his attraction to the purist style comes from his younger years spent trying to understand his own emotional currents.

Leaving the Navy for a career in art, Brian Sanchez has had his work in exhibits from London to Seattle.

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artist in residence

“I didn’t know what to do with the range of emotions I had access to,” he said. “As I have gotten older and understand myself now, I kind of just feel like a vessel that’s channeling some of this interconnectedness.

“I’m growing as a person and starting to understand these different parts of myself and my childhood. I have been extremely isolated for the last few years, and it’s turning up in the work. I love that about painting.”

Sanchez has always painted, including the mission control “island” of U.S. Naval carriers when he was a seaman at 19 years old.

He left the Navy a few months early, with the permission of his superior officer, to pursue his dream of becoming a full-time artist. He has managed to fulfill that dream for the past six years.

Sanchez’s art has been in exhibitions from London to Seattle. Distinguished from commissioned work for a home, his exhibition work is never about a singular painting or even a series. The entire display flows like a musical composition, he said, with a rhythm of its own.

“A show is like a novel,” he added, shifting metaphors. “The paintings are just chapters in the novel.”

Inspiration is in everything and often it’s captured by Sanchez’s camera. He carries one with him everywhere. He displays a few of his documentary style photographs on his website (www.2eyes10fingers. com—“I see with my two eyes and paint with my ten fingers.”)

“I think about life as art. I embody that,” he said. “I think photography, color, and paint are one and the same. Thinking about light, composition, shadow, reflections, color and form—they are all the same to me.”

The camera provides a lens through which he can dabble with the composition of figure and landscape, always returning to abstractionist painting.

“Well planned. Well executed,” Val Paul Taylor, a Camano Island artist and former arts professor, said of Sanchez’s works. “Your eye moves throughout the whole composition in a really pleasing way.

Big shapes of color, and the line that’s created between those colors … It creates a lot of energy.”

After an intensive time creating an exhibit, Sanchez will take a month or two off, spend time with his family, carry his camera to capture a fleeting emotion, a thought, in visual form. He’ll take it all in and fill a “knapsack full of ideas.”

“Last summer, I was hyper-aware of the rustling of the trees,” he recalled. “When I got back in the studio, it comes out in certain ways— that kind of gentleness. I had been dealing with some chronic illness, and I was in a significant amount of pain all the time. I was paying attention to these really subtle parts of nature and that ended up helping me become whole. It came through in my paintings.”

As of late, his work is more about love, hardship and trauma, he said. “Things are getting softer but also really bright at the same time.”

Taylor said that we see raw emotion in his work. “These colors all have a feeling,” he said. “You are getting them in proximity to each other. They are very happy colors. You just look at it and say “That would look great in my living room … It doesn’t need to be a dog.”

Taylor said finding pure abstract artists is not common. Most artists want to base their work around a thing, inspired by the object.

“It’s just brilliant. He’s got something going there.”

“Well planned and well executed,” Brian Sanchez’s art is a pleasing embodiment of interconnectedness.

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STARTUP 44 WHAT’S GOING UP 45 MY WORKSPACE 46

pg. 46 Monteillet Fromagerie in Dayton is the setting for amazing cheeses.

Cameron Riley

GAME CHANGER 48

OUTWARDS!

Timberline Vodka is created by and for the Outer Class in a little part of the world called Hood River, where there’s a lot more outside than inside. We distill our enthusiasm into this gem from a unique blend of Pacific Northwest apples, grain, and glacier-fed spring water from Mt. Hood. Here’s to whatever opens your door.

DOUBLE GOLD WINNER 2021 SAN FRANCISCO WORLD’S SPIRIT COMPETITION

A proud partner of The Freshwater Trust, a nonprofit whose mission is to preserve and restore freshwater ecosystems, including rivers, streams and creeks across the West. Distilled and bottled by Hood River Distillers, Inc., Hood River, Oregon. © 2022 Timberline ® Vodka, 40% Alc./Vol., Gluten Free. www.timberlinevodkas.com. Stay in Contro Control. l.®

Photos: Cloud Paper

startup

Cloud Paper supplants traditional tree-based toilet paper with fast growing bamboo. AT RIGHT Ryan Fritsch, co-founder of Cloud Paper.

Bamboo in the Loo Sustainable alternatives to toilet paper written by Jonathan Shipley WHEN YOU GO to the loo, and choose to use bamboo, you’re saving a tree. Cloud Paper, a Seattle-based startup creating bamboo-based toilet paper and towels, saved 10,000 trees last year. This year they’re hoping to save 22,000 more. Founded in 2019 by University of Washington graduates and ex-Uber and Convoy employees, the small organization is eager to build the world’s most sustainable paper company and their goal is to save a billion trees in the process.

“Most people don’t think about their paper products,” noted Ryan Fritsch, a Cloud Paper co-founders, with Austin Watkins.

“We started Cloud Paper to end the deforestation caused by traditional paper products. It became clear that we could drive real global environmental change if we are able to shift the existing paper industry toward a tree-free and sustainable future.”

Many have taken note, eager for that future. A recent $5 million round of investments came from Ashton Kutcher’s Soundwaves, Jeff Bezos’ Bezos Expeditions, and Marc Benioff ’s TIME Ventures. Cloud Paper has sold more than three million rolls of toilet paper to date. Most of their toilet paper and towels are sold with a subscription model. They’ve delivered ten times more rolls since its initial seed round. Its direct-to-consumer base has grown more than three-fold. Customers have grown 44 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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quintupled and revenue has soared during this time.

The products Cloud Paper makes are made with sustainable bamboo grown on farms in Asia and manufactured in China.

Bamboo, a species of grass, is the fastest growing plant in the world. It also absorbs large amounts of carbon from the atmosphere, which is then sequestered in biomass and soil. As a result, each roll of Cloud Paper generates 30 percent less carbon than a traditional tree-based roll. The company has already offset more than one million pounds of carbon. Further, timber trees typically take fifty years to grow to maturity. Bamboo takes three years. What’s more, bamboo does not have to be replanted to grow again. If everyone in the United States switched to bamboo-based toilet paper and towels, 526 million trees would be saved every year to prevent forests from going down the toilet, literally.

“The biggest challenge thus far is breaking through a category that has been largely overlooked for decades,” Fritsch said.

Indeed, in the western world, modern commercially available toilet paper didn’t originate until 1857. It was then that New Yorker Joseph Gayetty marketed a “Medicated Paper, for the Water-Closet.” We’ve been wiping similarly ever since. Now Fitch asks, what can the future of the paper industry look like?

He wants Cloud Paper to be a leader in answering that question.

With 20 percent of today’s global deforestation caused by the manufacturing of toilet paper and paper towels, Cloud Paper is on a roll to wipe out deforestation for good.

what’s going up?

Utilities for Bees Pollinator gardens are coming to Washington utilities near you written by Dameon Pesanti WITH THE plight of pollinators now a major concern, several of the state’s largest utilities are converting their properties into pollinator refuges. Utilities are in a rare position to create habitats in urban environments with their large and scattered holdings.

This spring, Vancouver-based Clark Public Utilities finished its first 2,400-square-foot pollinator garden at its Operations Center. The utility plans to build many more pollinator habitats along its substations and its community solar array in the years ahead.

Also in Vancouver, the Bonneville Power Administration spent 2020 transforming a large portion of its sprawling urban Ross Complex into a pollinator garden. It, too, plans to build more pollinator habitat in its holdings.

Since 2018, Seattle City Light has transformed three of its properties into pollinator habitats. It plans to convert several more in the future. Following the recent creation of the Washington Pollinator Health Task Force, more organizations will likely adopt similar practices.

Bees and other pollinators are finding increasingly friendly neighbors in power companies that are planting pollinator gardens.

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Steve Scardina

my workspace

Born and raised in Millau, France, an idyllic Tarn River town near the renown Roquefort village where limestone caves have produced tarty-salty cheese for more than 2,000 years, Pierre-Louis Monteillet grew up with a refined palette for cheeses of many kinds.

Ancient Practices, Modern Delights

Monteillet Fromagerie is a boutique, craft cheese-maker in Dayton that began with a chance meeting in Mexico written by Joni Kabana 46

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Monteillet also acquired a penchant for adventure and in 1978, at 25, he traveled to Oaxaca, Mexico, to explore ancient Zapotec ruins. During this visit, his traveling buddy became ill and a friendly woman offered him her hotel room as a resting place. Appreciating this gesture of kindness, his friend invited her to dinner along with Monteillet. After an evening of dancing and dining, Monteillet and the kind stranger, Joan Hendrickson, exchanged addresses. Six weeks later, he hitchhiked to Walla Walla, where Hendrickson grew up as a wheat farmer’s daughter and still lived, and surprised her with his impromptu visit.

my workspace

Today, Monteillet and, wife, Joan, operate Monteillet Fromagerie, a 32-acre farmstead in Dayton, Washington, where they raise French alpine goats and Friesian and Lacaune sheep for their production of exquisite French cheeses.

Joan’s expertise of animal husbandry coupled with his traditional cheesemonger skills is a match made in fromagerie heaven.

The artisan cheeses are made in small batches, painstakingly by hand, and reflect the characteristics of the surrounding land, a value that is strongly held by both owners.

Like a fine wine, these cheeses reflect the soil, grasses and air quality found in this lush Washington region.

Photos: Steve Scardina

Monteillet Fromagerie hosts farmstays, workshops and farmstead dinners, serving dishes made from delights raised and grown on their land. Adhering to an intentional lifestyle choice fostering creativity and spirituality, the couple has developed more than just a cheese-making homestead, Monteillet Fromagerie is a cultural beacon in the Walla Walla community, where, among Old World cheeses, they both recall stories of their farming and cheesemaking ancestors.

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game changer

Lambert House is a safe place for LGBTQ+ young people to find help, a retreat and kindred souls.

Creating Connection

A Seattle charity helps isolated, bullied LGBTQ youths find community written by James Sinks IT’S NOT UNCOMMON for teens to feel alone. But for preteens, teens and young adults who are gay, lesbian, bisexual, transgender or questioning their sexual identities, family ostracization and social isolation can be devastating.

At such a fragile point in life, feeling unloved can lead to dark paths where nobody wants their kids to go: depression and low self-esteem, poor scholastic performance, escapism and coping via alcohol and drug use, homelessness, risky sexual behavior that increases the risk of contracting HIV, and in the worst-case, suicidal thoughts.

There’s help at Lambert House, in an unassuming yellow Victorian in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood, and through its online service.

For four decades, the nonprofit has offered bullied queer youth the thing they crave most: safe and positive connections.

Lambert House provides a meeting place plus programs to build leadership, social and life skills—with the slate of services shaped by those who participate in them, said executive director Ken Shulman, who has led the nonprofit since 2003.

“The youth we serve are highly diverse, and the one thing they all have in common is a desire to be together with other youth like themselves,” he said. “They desperately need friends in order to avoid the depression and suicidality that come from being rejected by their parents and peers.”

The nonprofit gets funding from both private donors and government sources, and was recently able to pay off the mortgage on the Capitol Hill property with the help of a bevy of 48 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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donors. Next up is a $4.5 million capital campaign to remodel the house’s basement and attic so the venue can accommodate more people, he said.

Bob Deischer, a pediatrician, founded the charity in 1981.

Also the then-director of the Center on Human Development and Disability at the University of Washington, he’d seen that isolated gay, lesbian and bisexual youths experienced more frequent physical and mental health challenges—and looked for a way for them to connect with each other.

Since then, it has served approximately 15,000 young people between the ages of 10 and 22.

Thang Dao, now 21 and attending college in Minnesota to be a doctor, said the “Dark Ages” of middle school were a time of severe loneliness and suicidal thoughts, before finding the nonprofit and—for the first time—long-term and supportive friends. “I don’t have to worry about a place to belong, because I’ll always have a home at Lambert House,” Dao said. “They saved my life; and I’m still here.”

Currently, Lambert House works with 1,300 adolescents and early adults per year, Shulman said, with about 8 percent of them homeless. Lambert House is not, however, a residential facility. Homeless youths receive intervention services and are connected to partners who provide safe housing options.

The nonprofit’s menu of services includes in-person classes and meals, albeit outdoors for Covid safety, at the Capitol Hill property and eight satellite locations. It also provides drop-in recreation sessions and intensive mental health services with a crew of highly trained and screened volunteers.

In addition, through its two-year-old online portal, Lambert House now serves at-risk youths in twenty-eight states and seven countries with programs like “Queerentine,” a chat group.

“We’ve gone from being a local organization serving 135 zip codes mostly in Western Washington to a national organization and, to a limited extent, an international one,” Shulman said. “Most of what we do is prevent risks for those kids who have fallen victim and offer services to help them keep their lives on track.”

Learn more at www.lamberthouse.org.

“The youth we serve are highly diverse, and the one thing they all have in common is a desire to be together with other youth like themselves.”

— Ken Shulman, Lambert House executive director

VisitTri-Cities.com

BE MORE COOL Seeking an immersive vineyard experience blended with farm-to-table dining and outdoor recreation?

Yeah, we’ve got that.

We’ve got more cool.

The Columbia Valley AVA encompasses most of Washington’s AVAs, but also includes some of the best vineyard views of the Columbia River.

A Guide to Washington’s

Wine

Terroir Washington’s many microclimates produce various soil types behind its delicious AVAs written and photographed by Daniel O’Neil

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T

he desert seems an unlikely place to grow wine. Yet vineyard managers across the globe dream of such long, dry, reliable growing seasons with hot days and cool nights. Abundant irrigation water from the Columbia River and Cascade Range make this dream a reality for Washington’s AVAs, or American Viticultural Areas. With nineteen AVAs to date, Washington, the country’s second-largest wine producer, continues to grow in size and fame.

Vivid with fruit and deep in color, Washington wines achieve balance with refreshing acidity, ripe tannins and defined varietal flavors. While a few AVAs exist in cooler, damper parts of the state, most lie in arid Eastern Washington where loess, a blend of fine, windblown silt and sand resulting from repeated glacial retreat, provides ideal soil. The Missoula Floods, which tore through the region between 18,000 and 15,000 years ago, added soil diversity.

These soils prove naturally resistant to root-eating phylloxera mites, so vines here are ungrafted.

Above ground, the Cascade Range rain shadow casts a desert climate for most of Washington’s vineyards. The lack of rain requires irrigation, but this asset gives growers fine-tuned control over ripening. Desert air also reduces the need for pesticides, which creates a naturally sustainable environment.

Most importantly, the formidable swing between daily temperatures during the final months of ripening allows for flavor and tannins to develop while acidity remains sharp.

Known for red and white Bordeaux and Rhone varietals and anything from tempranillo to chardonnay, plus eighty other varietals, Washington can grow almost anything. Yet winemakers prefer to craft wines using different AVAs, not varietals. “The state’s diverse AVAs let us blend multiple layers of complexity and nuance of flavors, aromas and textures, to make better wines,” said Dan Wampfler, winemaker at Abeja Winery in Walla Walla.

The enormous Columbia Valley AVA serves as a catch-all for the Eastern Washington wine country and mainly covers wines blended from multiple AVAs. But the true, defining fruit of Washington wine emerges from an AVA with its own signature of character and style.

Morning sunlight catches the early-season shoots in Seven Hills vineyard, Walla Walla AVA.

Walla Walla AVA Since becoming an AVA in 1984, Walla Walla has grown to become Washington’s wine epicenter.

Home to the largest concentration of wineries and to some of the most iconic vineyards in the state, nowhere in Washington feels more like wine country.

Walla Walla soils vary greatly— flood silts, loess, fractured basalt, ancient river rocks—each providing a distinct flavor profile. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah dominate, but other varietals like cabernet franc and viognier also flourish.

Vineyard locations range from northern sites overlooking the Palouse to terraces in the cooler, wetter foothills of the Blue Mountains to the east. Some lie in Missoula Flood terraces just south of town. The sloping vineyards around

Seven Hills, actually in Oregon, offer soil types that change dramatically with elevation. A new subAVA, The Rocks District, also in Oregon, has carved itself from the Walla Walla AVA because of its odd soil type, which is almost ninety percent cobblestone.

More sub-AVAs will surface here, but Walla Walla maintains a common identity. “We’ve always been pretty isolated out here, so it was important from the beginning for winemakers and growers to share information, help each other out and collaborate,” said Jordan Dunn-Small, general manager and co-owner of Woodward Canyon Winery, which her parents founded in 1981. “Even as the industry has grown, we still seem able to hold onto that sense of camaraderie and collaboration.”

FROM LEFT First-rate winemaking facilities like at Abeja in Walla Walla demonstrate winemakers’ respect for Washington-grown grapes. Jordan Dunn-Small manages and co-owns Woodward Canyon, which her parents founded in 1977 before they helped create the Walla Walla AVA.

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Red Mountain AVA Situated on the eastern end of the Yakima Valley, perched between the Yakima River and a weathered, barren hilltop, the Red Mountain AVA bakes in the summer sun. One of Washington’s warmest AVAs, Red Mountain also gets windy, all of which leads to intense, tannic, structured red wines full of ripe fruit.

Red Mountain recalls someplace like Bordeaux, but with a scent of sagebrush riding the breeze.

Monoculture here creates a vast plain of vineyard dotted by wineries. It is one of the smallest AVAs, which helps put a premium on Red Mountain cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah.

Fruit from celebrated vineyards like Ciel du Cheval and Kiona can be found in some of Washington’s most expensive and elusive wines.

Yakima Valley AVA

“Wine is a good bridge. It brings the east and west sides of the Cascades together.”

— Jonathan Sauer, winemaker, Red Willow Vineyards

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The Yakima Valley looks and feels like an agriculture haven with its rows of cherries, apples and hops. Yet the smooth, rolling hills of sagebrush speak for the rain shadow. These two traits combine to produce some of Washington’s best wine grapes, which pushed Yakima Valley to become the state’s first AVA in 1983.

Much of Washington’s wine history began at Red Willow Vineyards on the far west end of the valley.

First planted in 1972, Red Willow pioneered varietals in Washington, including syrah, malbec, sangiovese, tempranillo and viognier.

Annual rainfall here, as for Eastern Washington in general, averages eight inches. A diversity of soils, elevations, aspects and slope offers relatively moderate temperatures, which leads AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

to ideal ripeness at harvest. The wines—often cabernet sauvignon, syrah, riesling, chardonnay—reveal aromatic complexity, smooth tannins and good acidity.

Yakima Valley has subdivided into more specific AVAs—Snipes Mountain, Candy Mountain, Goose Gap, Naches Heights, Rattlesnake Hills and Red Mountain, but only these last two are commonly labeled on their own.

Many of Washington’s top wines ferment in Woodinville, where Yakima Valley grapes feature prominently. “We’re the neighborhood valley for Seattle wineries,” said Jonathan Sauer, second-generation winegrower at Red Willow Vineyards. “Wine is a good bridge. It brings the east and west sides of the Cascades together.”

Vineyards dominate the sun-rich terrain of Red Mountain AVA, where wineries punctuate the endless rows of vines.

Rattlesnake Hills AVA

Rattlesnake Hills’ geography and microclimate set it apart, leading to an extended growing season for vineyards like DuBrul’s. (photo: Andrea Johnson Photography/Washington State Wine Commission)

The Rattlesnake Hills AVA covers mostly south-facing, undulating shrub-steppe below a high east-west ridgeline. Located in the northcentral Yakima Valley, Rattlesnake Hills emerged from that larger AVA in 2006. Its geography and resulting microclimate set it apart.

Vineyard elevations reach 3,000 feet, which leads to an extended growing season and softer tannins.

Vineyards like DuBrul, Sheridan and Elephant Mountain reliably produce Bordeaux and Rhone varietals. Local winemaker Co Dinn has plenty to work with here. “Really vibrant fruit—that part of the Yakima Valley is one of my favorites. There’s a lot of potential up there,” said Dinn.

“Really vibrant fruit—that part of the Yakima Valley is one of my favorites. There’s a lot of potential up there.”

— Co Dinn, winemaker, Co Dinn Cellars

Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Red Willow Vineyards, planted on the western frontier of the Yakima Valley AVA, first introduced varietals like sangiovese and syrah to Washington’s wine industry.

On a broad south-facing slope that descends to the Columbia River grow some of Washington’s finest wine grapes. Like most of Eastern Washington, the Horse Heaven Hills AVA endures a harsh environment.

Juniper hugs the few canyons, but bunch grass, sagebrush and sunshine dominate. Columbia River winds offer cooling and mildew control for cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay, riesling, syrah and more.

The most notable vineyard, Champoux, dates back to 1972. Its cabernet sauvignon helped establish several of Washington’s early, now renowned, wineries and continues to supply the state’s top winemakers. “Here, it’s all about the tannins,” said longtime winegrower Paul

Champoux. “Soft, big, smooth tannins, that’s Horse Heaven Hills.”

To the west, The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA benefits from similarly warm and windy conditions.

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Arid, secluded and sparsely populated, the Horse Heaven Hills AVA reminds of the Wild West, while also producing some of Washington’s finest wine grapes.

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The Columbia Gorge AVA offers lush growing sites and, at locations like Cor Cellars, views of Mount Hood.

ABOVE, FROM TOP Vines in the White Bluffs AVA overlook the Columbia River and, eccentrically Washington, the Hanford Nuclear Site. First planted in 1972, Sagemoor vineyard in the White Bluffs AVA is home to some of the state’s oldest vines.

White Bluffs, Wahluke Slope, Royal Slope, Ancient Lakes AVAs On the east side of the Columbia River, north of Walla Walla and Yakima, four AVAs make their mark on Washington wine. The newest, White Bluffs AVA, created in 2021, is actually home to some of the state’s oldest vines, planted in 1972. These vineyards—Sagemoor, Dionysus and Bacchus—helped found Washington’s wine industry and still grow coveted grapes today, mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

The Wahluke Slope proves one of the state’s hottest and most productive AVAs. Besides the classic red varietals, which acquire stout concentration and structure, it also provides rich chardonnay. Farther north, the Royal Slope AVA rises high in elevation, granting acidity alongside ripeness to varieties like syrah. On its northern border, the Ancient Lakes AVA offers a climate cool enough for crisp, fruity white wines like riesling, chardonnay and pinot gris.

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Puget Sound, Lake Chelan, Lewis-Clark Valley AVAs

Columbia Gorge AVA While most of Washington’s AVAs exist in the desert and produce powerful red wines, the Columbia Gorge AVA brings cooler, wetter growing conditions to the sorting table. Acidity and minerality thrive here. Warmer sites grow elegant syrah and grenache, and cooler areas ripen balanced pinot noir. But the AVA excels with white grapes such as chardonnay, riesling, gewürztraminer and pinot gris, especially at Celilo vineyard, originally planted in 1972.

Stark changes in gorge climate, where annual rainfall tapers from five feet on the AVA’s western edge to six inches in the east, create opportunity.

Vineyard elevations from 100 to nearly 2,000 feet above the Columbia add diversity. Steady gorge winds seem the only constant. The AVA will likely fracture into sub-AVAs. “It’s hard to make generalizations here,” said Todd Harrington, vineyard operations manager at Celilo vineyard.

“There’s a huge variety of outcomes, growing conditions and microclimates that are all right next to each other. It allows for tons of experimentation.”

With one eye on the future, and another on lush Pacific Northwest scenery, Washington includes a few AVAs outside of the desert. The Puget Sound AVA, designated in 1995, includes vines on Bainbridge Island and San Juan Island. German and Alsatian varieties with low heat requirements for ripening, like Madeleine Angevine, siegerebbe and Müller-Thurgau, create delicate white wines.

Winemakers in the Lake Chelan AVA source most grapes from warmer areas farther south. But grapevines on the lake’s southeastern tip produce syrah, pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris as growers experiment with site selection in preparation for warmer years to come.

Most of the Lewis-Clark Valley AVA sits on the Idaho side of the border, but natural rainfall and rugged, diverse terrain make this region a new frontier in Washington wine, with plenty of room to grow.

Grapevines on Lake Chelan’s southeastern tip produce syrah, pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris as growers experiment with site selection in preparation for warmer years to come. (photo: Washington State Wine Commission)

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The lion’s mane jellyfish is just one of the myriad magical creatures living in our oceans. (photo: Annie Crawley)

Sustainable

Tourism in the Pacific

From seaweed foraging by kayak to visiting the giant Pacific octopus, learn about our saltwater environs and the beauty of deep, blue space written by Ellen Hiatt 56

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Find a local beach and settle onto a driftwood log, a smooth fragment of clam shell between your fingers, and a cairn of rocks beside you. Close your eyes and draw in a deep breath of salty air.

Imagine slipping beneath the surface, eyes wide open. Can you feel the current gently buffet your body as you glide past a forest of eelgrass? Are you hand-to-tentacle with a giant Pacific octopus, or eyeball to eyeball with a 5-foot-long, gaping mouth, toothy, 60-year-old lingcod?

“There’s nothing like it for me,” said diver Annie Crawley. “We have the Fiji of the Pacific Northwest in our backyard.”

Crawley, an Edmonds resident, has made it her tireless mission to help people connect to that underwater world and to become advocates for oceans.

Throughout history, the ocean and its magical creatures have inspired stories, shaped cultures, and provided travel routes for trade.

Oceans make up 70 percent of our planet, yet they’re often misunderstood or taken for granted, according to Crawley, a videographer and motivational speaker. Hollywood often casts oceans as dark dens for man-eating sharks, stoking fear over inquiry and breaking the bond with our life-giving source of oxygen, Crawley said.

Crawley spoke to 1889 Washington’s Magazine from the deck of “Silky,” a 55-foot-Catamaran based in Colombia, while working with a Colombian crew to protect Malpelo Island, a World Heritage Site, from illegal fishers.

“Our world exists because of our ocean,” Crawley said. “The space race searches for water on other planets far, far away as we pollute ours. It’s very important for all of us to take ownership of our environment. The ocean is the life source of our planet and is what makes Earth habitable. We should be called Planet Ocean as this is what gives life to our planet.

We are 70 percent ocean and 30 percent land.”

Low tide exploration is another great way to connect with the ocean, according to kayak guide and wild foods forager Kristi Kucera.

“One of the things that I think is the coolest about Washington state is how diverse our intertidal system is. Two times a day you can explore low tides,” she said.

As the owner of Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures in Bellingham, Kucera said being on the water helps her maintain a higher sense of compassion and patience and live in the moment. “I love how dynamic the ocean is,” she said. “You have to pay attention to currents, tides and winds.”

She takes new and experienced paddlers on guided kayak tours throughout the greater San Juan archipelago, teaching them about seaweed and other harvesting of native resources. “This has created a passion for us in educating people. We just live in such a diverse area, and I think people don’t realize how many different types of seaweed there are to harvest and how to do it sustainably,” she said.

For people who feel disconnected to the environment and solutions, Kucera takes them to the source. “If you want people to care more about sea star wasting disease, they need to see their environment, and feel the power and beauty of being immersed in it, and try to see themselves as one versus separate from it,” she observed.

“One of the best things for sustainability is to feel connected. If you want people to care more about sea star wasting disease, they need to see their environment, and feel the power and beauty of being immersed in it, and try to see themselves as one versus separate from it.”

— Kristi Kucera, guide and owner of Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures

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Annie Crawley, diver, videographer and ocean advocate, films a young humpback whale. (photo: Steve Woods Photography)

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The shores of Washington state are as diverse as they are plentiful.

From the dramatic oceanside cliffs overlooking the incredible volcanic rock formations and what the Makah called “the beginning of the world,” to the San Juan archipelago, and the complex fjords of Puget Sound, our Salish Sea and wild coast offer up a saltwater world teeming with life.

Here are four opportunities for you to make a deeper connection with the waters of Washington.

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The giant Pacific octopus is the largest octopus species in the world. (photo: Annie Crawley)

Hood Canal & the Giant Pacific Octopus Google “the giant Pacific octopus” and you’ll want to know if there is really a 600-pound octopus living in the ruins of the Tacoma Narrows Bridge.

“A short answer, no!” said Crawley. “It’s a myth of course, but a fun one to think about.” The giant Pacific octopus, or GPO for short, is an iconic animal of the Salish Sea. People come from all over the world to dive here searching for them, she said. “With eight arms, three hearts, blue blood and nine brains, what’s not to love?” Crawley offered. Giant Pacific octopi can be found from Mukilteo to Hood Canal, the San Juan Islands to West Seattle, she noted. “Like all the animals in the Salish Sea, they rely on us to protect them from our runoff, plastic, noise and carbon pollution,” she said.

While Hood Canal is on the map for divers seeking encounters with the mythical creatures, Crawley suggests getting to know your local GPO by taking a visit to the Seattle Aquarium. The aquarium is permitted to capture live GPOs to hold in captivity as an educational opportunity. They are released back into the ocean when they begin to reach maturity.

EXPLORE MORE » To visit the Seattle Aquarium, go to www.

» While you’re on Hood Canal, find out what

seattleaquarium.org.

» Cuisine is another way to enjoy the saltwater environs of Hood Canal. Enjoy the Shellfish Trail (www.shellfishtrail.org), dedicated to aquaculture experiences and information, and a thorough itinerary for slurping your way through local oyster farms.

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sets its music scene apart. Learn more at www.explorehoodcanal.com. You’ll find world-class musicians performing at small cocktail bar gigs, and the annual Bluegrass from the Forest September festival.

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Ocean life abounds at the Edmonds Underwater Park, including jellyfish (left), sea slugs (above) and fish such as sailfin sculpin (below) and lingcod (bottom). (photos: Annie Crawley)

Edmonds Underwater Park & Marine Sanctuary The Edmonds Underwater Park and Marine Sanctuary is a destination for divers from around the world. Crawley has been mentoring teenagers by teaching them to dive in the sanctuary.

“Together, with my team, we built a website as we realized so many people who come to the shore do not know what lives below this marine protected area,” she said. “It’s been a no-take zone for more than fifty years in our community.”

On the lowest tides of the year, locals flock to the 1,000 feet of sandy beach to explore the marine life clinging to the ferry piers and hiding in tide pools.

EXPLORE MORE » Visit Crawley’s website, www.edmonds underwaterpark.com to learn more about the sanctuary.

» For information on Edmonds waterfront, learn more at www.visitedmonds.com.

» While you’re in Edmonds, take a whale watching tour from the Edmonds marina (www.pugetsoundexpress.com), enjoy a gin tasting at Scratch Distillery (www.scratchdistillery.com) and take in the best of the Pacific Northwest’s historic artists at Cascadia Art Museum (www.cascadiaartnuseum.org).

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The Cascadia Marine Trail & the Greater San Juans Archipelago Bring your own kayak to explore the San Juans via the Cascadia Marine Trail and the Greater San Juans archipelago, from Orcas Island to Bellingham. Tour with Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures and launch from Lummi Island, Orcas or Anacortes. The kayaking tours can be half-day jaunts launching from Larrabee State Park (a boon for low-tide exploration), or three-day tours through the San Juans. Expect to learn about seaweed foraging, even enjoy some bull kelp pudding cooled in the Salish Sea. The Cascadia Marine Trail includes sixty-six campsites accessible by humanpowered craft, and 160 day-use sites.

EXPLORE MORE » To learn more about the Cascadia Marine Trail, visit www.wwta.org.

» To learn more about sustainable seaweed harvesting, take a kayak tour with Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures, visit www. moondancekayak.com.

» Launching from Bellingham? Detour to the Marine Life Center at the Port of Bellingham, where bycatch (the unintended catch of a fisheries harvest), is brought to provide

public education before being released back to the sea. The center will be closed August 26 and September 7 for a low-tide exploration. Learn more at www.portofbellingham. com/508/Marine-Life-Center.

» No visit to Bellingham is complete without a drive down the narrow, curvy and spectacularly beautiful Chuckanut Drive and a visit to Taylor Shellfish Farms. Look for the Samish Oyster Bar information on www.taylorshellfishfarms.com.

Tour coastal Washington by kayak with knowledgable guides at Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures. (photo: Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures)

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Neah Bay & the Whale Trail Visit Cape Flattery on the state’s northwestern tip of the Olympic Peninsula to catch the Whale Trail. The Cape Flattery portion is a 3.5-mile trail that extends from the cape overlooking the Pacific Ocean, to the entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Tatoosh Island. But the full Whale Trail includes 100 sites all along the Pacific Coast, from British Columbia to Southern California. These sites are ideal for spotting marine mammals, including Steller sea lions and orca whales.

EXPLORE MORE » Discover all the best spots to see whales at www.thewhaletrail.org. You’ll need to buy a permit at the Makah Museum and Cultural Center. The reservation requires visitors to be vaccinated against Covid. While you’re at the cultural center, check out the hydrophone, which lets you listen in on conversations between orca whales.

» At the Makah cultural center, take in the 55,000 artifacts unearthed from Ozette Village, the American equivalent of Pompeii.

The historic village was entombed for 500 years after getting buried in mud by an earthquake. Enjoy the coastal scenery on the Ozette Loop hike, and check out the Wedding Rock petroglyphs. The Lake Ozette trail, a popular destination, includes a boardwalk above the forest floor and it passes by the archaeological site of the buried village.

Cape Flattery provides spectacular views of the Pacific and is a prime spot for spotting whales. (photo: Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau)

OCEAN ANNIE SHARES TIPS TO PROTECT

OUR OCEANS

Everything we do in our daily life impacts our oceans. Annie Crawley, ocean advocate, deep sea diver and videographer, wants people to bond with our oceans—our life-giving source of oxygen—and to understand how we can protect the Annie Crawley, aka Ocean Annie. waters of our planet. (photo: Annie Crawley) Connecting with the ocean personally is a great place to start, she said. Enjoy a low tide exploration (they’re extraordinarily low July through September, providing stellar opportunities to investigate sea life).

“It’s like a treasure hunt,” Crawley said. “You’ll find anemones, stranded jellies (don’t touch as they can sting you even if washed up on a beach) sea urchins, sea stars, fish, and if you are lucky, maybe a moon snail.

“The animals living in the tidal zone are robust, surviving this exposure during our summer months. You don’t want to unknowingly harm life [so] be careful of what you touch, as many of the animals store water in their body when the tide goes out so they can live until the water returns.”

Crawley photographed a children’s book with writer Patricia Newman, Planet Ocean, Why We All Need a Healthy Ocean, to help children understand “how the sea makes your life possible, and how you impact it. Find out how to speak up for the ocean, because without you it has no voice.”

We can advocate actively for our oceans (Crawley suggests asking companies for sustainable packaging and advocating for public policy changes), and we can make everyday lifestyle choices.

“You don’t need to be at the ocean to help it. Everything we do on land impacts the sea,” she said. She offers here four ways to protect our oceans:

Think Sustainable Crawley has blogged (www. ouroceanandyou.com) about small lifestyle choices that have the potential for big impact. If you go on a boat or near the seashore, don’t bring single-use plastic for your food, she said. The car you drive (she chose electric), the clothes you wear with micro plastics, and even the sunscreen you choose to protect yourself from the sun’s UV rays (choose “reef safe”) all can benefit or harm the ocean.

Reduce Noise Pollution Technology is changing, and electric boats are already on the market. By choosing electric boats— and electric cars—we can reduce noise pollution. Even electric cargo ships are sailing the seas.

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Stop Runoff Runoff into salmon-bearing streams near roadways has proven toxic to fish. Car tires include a deadly toxin that has devastated spawning salmon populations.

Pollutants in our waterways, from our tires and even our lawn care, is damaging freshwater and marine life. Consider using organic lawn care practices, avoiding fertilizers before a rain event, planting drought-resistant plants and compost soil and mulch, resulting in less water to run off.

Buy Local If you buy from local farms and businesses, it not only helps the local economy, Crawley points out, but it also reduces the fuel impacts from transportation. She shops for fish from Lummi Island Wild (www.lummiislandwild.com), a sustainable seafood fishery.

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THE LIVES OF SALMON

photography by Jason Ching | introduction by Oakley Brooks AT THE NORTHEAST END of the Iliamna Lake in Southwest Alaska, near the town of Pedro Bay, the water is so pure it’s drinkable and the bottom is lined with a sand of pounded white granite. Seen from the air, the lake takes on a light green, even turquoise tint, tropical. Put a thousand fire-engine red spawning sockeye salmon into the picture and the scene turns other worldly.

“People say, ‘I didn’t know there were salmon in the Bahamas,’” said Jason Ching, who has spent countless hours with a drone and underwater camera in this spot over the past fourteen summers, as an independent photographer and videographer taking breaks from his operations job at University of Washington’s nearby lab on the lake. “They say it’s gotta be Photoshopped.”

They’re all real, and they’re all jaw dropping. What’s more, they have changed the course of history in this region, which hosts tens of millions of sockeye every year.

Across Iliamna from Pedro Bay, in hills that drain to the lake, is one of the largest gold and copper deposits ever discovered. A Canadian company has been trying for two decades to turn it into Pebble Mine. As Pebble’s fortunes rose during the Trump Administration and the mine nearly was greenlighted, Ching’s imagery—on everything from CNN to Fox News to Instagram—helped turn the tide against the mine. Trump eventually denied Pebble a key permit; Biden is now proposing blocking mining on the Pebble site forever.

“It’s a no-brainer,” said Ching, now 35. “You don’t see places like this anywhere else on Earth right now.”

Born in Seattle and based in Bothell, Ching also turns his eye to the Olympic Peninsula and the Skagit in the winter.

There are fewer tropic hues in those pictures, but they are no less stunning. See them all at www.jasonching.com.

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Sockeye salmon can migrate hundreds of miles through seemingly impassable barriers like beaver dams and waterfalls to reach their spawning locations—precise areas in the freshwater systems where they emerged several years prior.

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AT LEFT Aerial salmon ponds.

ABOVE, TOP Kali Park, an undergraduate student at the University of Washington, nets adult sockeye salmon in Iliamna Lake to add important information to a database that extends over 50 years allowing scientists to observe long-term changes in the salmon populations.

ABOVE, BOTTOM The Bristol Bay watershed supports the largest sockeye salmon fishery in the world. What makes Bristol Bay unique is the salmon habitat is largely untouched by development. Human development, like that from the Pebble Mine, would be devastating to sockeye salmon populations and everything they support.

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ABOVE The Bristol Bay watershed provides habitat for 29 fish species and more than 190 bird species. Other captivating residents include bald eagles, moose, caribou, brown bears, red fox, river otters and arctic hares.

AT LEFT, TOP As salmon migrate from the vast ocean to streams and lakes in Bristol Bay, they transport nutrients that support animals as well as people.

AT LEFT, CENTER One of the primary reasons Bristol Bay is such a successful salmon region is because the commercial fishing industry had the foresight and initiative to understand the salmon ecosystems before populations collapsed.

Research is important in developing strategies to manage fisheries and maintain habitats appropriately.

AT LEFT, BOTTOM Salmon are considered a keystone species in many of the areas they spawn and migrate. This means that they are crucial in supporting many of the creatures that they share habitats with including bears.

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 72 ADVENTURE 74 LODGING 76 TRIP PLANNER 78

pg. 84 Take time to explore the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Gardens on your tour of Vancouver, BC.

Destination Vancouver

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84

Dive Into

Edmonds!

Treat yourself to Edmonds and explore a marine sanctuary and underwater park.

Dive into the arts scene in the state's first-designated Creative District. From culinary to visual, performing to musical, Edmonds boasts destination-worthy restaurants, soul-stirring galleries, and international performances. visitedmonds.com

Travel Spotlight

An Artist’s Dream Palouse Falls shows a million faces at dusk and dawn written by Joni Kabana

Jason Hummel Photography/State of Washington Tourism

DID YOU KNOW that Washington has a state waterfall? Designated in 2014 when resident schoolchildren wrote and submitted (and ultimately saw the approval of) a legislative bill, Palouse Falls, near Perry, upholds this declaration with majesty.

Visitors travel along a bumpy road to reach these falls, often wondering if they are on the right road.

Persistent adventurers are in for a delightful surprise when, after first hearing the roaring waterfall, they come upon the vast view into the rugged valley.

Artists are often seen painting plein air in silence and photographers await the spectacular light of sunrise and sunset. Carved more than 13,000 years ago during the Ice Age Floods, Palouse River runs through a spectacular cataract and then cascades downward 200 feet into a tumultuous water bowl.

Rapid currents flow through basalt rock columns to the wild Snake River.

While many travel to this area in summer, the best time to go is off-season when colors are saturated and visitors sparse. A common phrase—once is not enough—is often associated with Palouse Falls as the light changes, giving credence to its nickname, “an artist’s dream.”

Extreme heat and cold are common experiences here so check the weather before departing and dress accordingly. Bring all supplies, including food and lots of water, and make sure your gas tank is full or battery charged, as there are no amenities nearby. There is also no cell coverage at the falls.

Above all, leave no trace of your visit other than your photos or paintings, and stay on designated paths to ensure protection of the natural landscape.

Above all, be prepared to daydream.

The state’s waterfall, Palouse Falls, is a light show for artists.

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YOUR SUMMER GET-A-WAY Moses Lake has fun activities for the entire family. Enjoy a day boating along Moses Lake or hiking one of the local trails. Spend the day sampling wine from one of the local wineries. Or do both! And when the sun goes down, we have you covered with unique night spots to hang out and enjoy the friends you brought with you, or hang with the locals.

EVENTS: Moses Lake Farmers’ Market – Open on Saturdays through October Surf ‘n Slide Water Park – Open through Labor Day Sand Scorpions Bounty Hole & Freestyle Mud Tracks – September 17

www.tourmoseslake.com

401 S. Balsam Street • Moses Lake, WA • 509-764-3820 Please confirm event availability and facility hours beforehand.

More events and details at www.cityofml.com

adventure Open water swimmers wear bright caps to be seen by other water users.

The Thrill of Open Water Swimming Five bodies of water for amazing open water swimming written by Jen Sotolongo

SWIM? OUT THERE in the open?

With the boats and the water plants and the sea life? In the frigid water?

That’s just something crazy that triathletes do, right?

As intimidating as open water swimming may sound, it’s a fantastic sport that anyone interested can enjoy, as long as they have the confidence and curiosity to dip their toes, literally.

Open water swimmers love the freedom that comes with swimming in an open space such as a lake or the Puget Sound. Fortunately for them, and those curious about taking to the open waters, there is plenty to explore in Washington.

Local open water swim coach Amy Marie Heaps of Lake Stevens offered guidance and suggestions for those interested in diving into the wonderful world of open water swimming.

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How to Get Started Looking to get started? The best way to learn the ropes is by joining a group or hiring a coach, like Heaps.

Regional groups located throughout the state welcome new swimmers and will happily show those new to open water swimming the ropes.

In Washington, a few such groups include: North Sound Swimmers, Western Washington Open Water Swimmers, Golden Gardens Swim Club, Olympia Wild Swimming, Outdoor Swimming Society and Bellingham Open Water Swimmers.

Heaps said developing swimming skills is best done in the pool and encourages new swimmers to practice there before swimming in the open water.

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Swimming in open water is about listening to your body and not forcing yourself beyond your limits, which can be a challenge for seasoned swimmers, according to Heaps.

A great place to learn and gain information is the Western Washington Open Water Swimmers Facebook group, which offers abundant resources and a community to those interested in the sport.

Gearing Up As with pool swimming, swimming in natural bodies of water requires a swimsuit, goggles, and brightly-colored swim cap, for visibility.

In addition, look for a wetsuit designed for triathletes to allow for maximum mobility. Wetsuits vary

in thickness and sleeve length, so it’s important to find what feels most comfortable for you. Neoprene booties and gloves add a layer of some extra warmth and protect the feet against sharp debris at the bottom of the lake or ocean. Wetsuits can cause chafing, so an anti-chafing cream can help.

Some open water swimmers also find that earplugs help keep them warmer and protect against ear infections.

For safety, consider wearing a bright swim buoy. The inflatable device tethers around the waist and increases visibility among boaters, other swimmers, and your buddies. Some buoys include a dry bag that allows swimmers to carry a few essential items such as keys, wallet or phone.

Embracing the Cold Waters in the Pacific Northwest aren’t exactly bathwater warm, even in the middle of summer. Getting used to the cold gradually is the key to successful open water swimming.

Beginner open water sessions look similar for both seasoned swimmers and those entirely new to swimming.

“The first few times may just be a dip or a float,” said Heaps. “Acclimating is important for safety reasons, and you really have to get over the mental aspect of how cold it can be.”

The initial swims will likely be brief ten to twenty–minute sessions with

Open water swimmers at Wildcat Lake near Seabeck tow light buoys to be easily seen.

WHERE TO OPEN WATER SWIM IN WASHINGTON Just about any body of water is swimmable. Be sure to know the tide charts and understand the current of the body of water. Always swim parallel to the shore and don’t stray too far from your entry point.

Some popular open water spots in the Seattle are and beyond include:

LAKE WASHINGTON

and without a wetsuit to acclimate to the temperatures.

Another way to tackle the cold is to bring a change of dry clothes to change into as soon as you exit the water. A thermos with a hot beverage also helps take off the chill, as does a warm shower when back home.

Getting Over the Fear of Open Water Many people have a fear of the open water, whether it’s the cold, the plant life or the wildlife. Because water can be dark, it’s not always possible to see what’s below the surface, sparking some of those fears.

Heaps helps address these fears by requiring her clients to get up close and personal with the plant life.

As far as wildlife interactions, Heaps said that letting them be is the best way to avoid an unwanted encounter.

“I often see folks getting kinda close,” she said. “My thing is they are wild and this is their home so you never know what they are capable of so be aware, don’t bug them and they usually stay pretty clear of you.”

Some new swimmers also fear the depth of the water or are worried they won’t catch their breath. This is where a coach comes in handy. Coaches will give clients drills to overcome these fears and develop the skills to trust their body and breath to be able to swim distances in open water.

The majority of the lake is swimmable. Suggested routes include starting at Madison Beach, swimming south, away from the 520 Bridge or swimming around the Seward Park peninsula.

LAKE SAMMAMISH This eastside lake offers abundant landmarks, a no-wake zone with reflective swim buoys for safer swimming, and beautiful scenery in the form of gardens and mountain views.

Idylwood is a favorite starting point.

GREEN LAKE For easy access swimming, this popular park is a great starting point.

Begin at the bathhouse and swim to the rec center and back, or vice versa.

WILDCAT LAKE Located in Seabeck, this is a favorite spot among open water swimmers and can actually feel warm toward the end of the summer. Start at the county park and swim straight out to the dock with buckets.

GOLDEN GARDENS The Golden Gardens Swim Club meets in the parking lot just south of the beach on Sundays at 9:30 and is open to swimmers of all abilities and ages. Everyone starts at the south end of the beach and swims north, following the current which allows for plenty of energy for the return.

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Visit Seattle/Alabastro Photography

Kelle Kitchel-Cooper/Visit Kitsap Peninsula

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Photos: Alexandra Ribar

lodging

ACCOMMODATIONS There are thirty rooms, suites and cabins on the 6-acre property, each with its own style.

The cabins are collaborations with Glasswing, Filson, We The Nomads and Edit Whidbey (all PNW designers), each perfect for a private retreat. The Lodge itself has rooms that might make you feel like a sea captain, with shared bathrooms among lodge guests. The Lagoon rooms each include ensuite bathrooms and a nod to Scandi-style with a view of the man-made lagoon.

DINING

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Captain Whidbey’s cabin styled with Filson items. On Whidbey Island, the inn is close to Seattle. A sauna for guest use at Captain Whidbey Inn. The bar at the inn for an evening cocktail.

Captain Whidbey Inn written by Cara Strickland WITH A QUICK ferry ride or a scenic drive over Deception Pass, you can forget how close you are to Seattle as you settle into the slower rhythms of island life on Whidbey. The Captain Whidbey has been a lot of things over the years. Built with wood and stone from the property in 1907, it was a private home, boarding house, post office, girl’s school and a general store. Now, it’s a thoughtfully reimagined historic inn with a high-end summer camp vibe, all with a lovely view of Penn Cove and easy driving distance to all the natural beauty and adventure that Whidbey has to offer.

2072 W. CAPTAIN WHIDBEY INN ROAD COUPEVILLE www.captainwhidbey.com

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You don’t have to be an overnight guest to experience the restaurant at Captain Whidbey (though reservations are recommended). You won’t be surprised to see a wide array of seafood options on the menu, paired with seasonal favorites such as Yakima Asparagus Tartine, and pickled vegetables of the moment, alongside housebaked crackers. Sit by the bar in the afternoon or evening for a cocktail, and enjoy the espresso bar (with grab and go breakfast items) in the general store.

If you’re a guest of the lodge, a special cocktail phone will connect you straight with the bartender for a no-fuss nightcap.

AMENITIES Play lawn games, swim, or row boats in the lagoon, or sit around one of many fires inside or out (be sure to pick up a complimentary s’mores kit on Friday and Saturday nights). Relax in the library with a selection of books, do some gentle yoga, or take advantage of the wellness studio and sauna. Whether you’re interested in a whiskey flight with an educational component, wine tasting and charcuterie, or learning how to make a craft cocktail, each day offers different complimentary activities for guests.

LOOKING FOR YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE? THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE IN NEWPORT!

Your adventure starts here:

D I S C O V E R N E W P O R T. C O M 1-800-COAST-44

FOODIE

ADVENTURER

FAMILY

FISHING

BEACHES AND LANDMARKS

HIKING

trip planner Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures

Kayak tours with Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures are a great learning opportunity in Bellingham.

Bellingham

Day

Art and romance (and a lot of beer)

CRÊPES • BOOKS • ART

written by Ryn Pfeuffer

For an unforgettable weekend getaway, hole up at The Chrysalis Inn & Spa (804 10th St.). Located on Bellingham Bay, romantic amenities abound. Think double soaking tubs in every room, window-seat views of the bay, and couples massages. Book a king suite for a summer treat (and more space). The hotel’s restaurant, Keenan’s on the Pier, is quite lovely too, with daily happy hour from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. and a divine cocktail list.

A more affordable (and family-friendly) option is the Heliotrope Hotel (2419 Elm St.), a hip, restored 1950s motel tucked on a quiet residential street.

For a casual yet elegant breakfast or lunch, cozy up at Magdalena’s Crêperie (1200 10th St. #103) for sweet and savory crêpes and farmer cheese-stuffed pan-fried pierogies that are in a class of comfort food all by themselves.

The all-buckwheat savory crépes are on a higher level—with two eggs, smoked salmon, avocado, artichoke lemon pesto, and mascarpone horseradish cream sauce.

SUMMER AND no-holds-barred fun is in full swing!

We crave cold beverages, outdoor patios and as much of the resurgent feeling of community as possible. Add to that a desire for adventures between our rugged coastline and the Cascade Range.

Make the most of the summer with a getaway to Bellingham. Much more than a stop between Seattle and Canada, this laid-back coastal beauty offers diverse culture, an impressive scene as well as scenic outdoor options galore.

Whether you want to explore craft breweries or some of the best mountain views in Washington, here are some itinerary ideas. You have earned every single ray of sunshine we get in this spectacular, too-short season.

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Day HIKES • BREWS • FOOD TRUCKS Bellingham is also a popular launch spot for Mount Baker hikes. The mountain’s indigenous name is Koma Kulshan, which loosely translates to the white mountain with a puncture wound on top (the crater). If you want to hit the trails, take the Mount Baker Highway (Hwy 542) 62 miles east into the heart of the North Cascades. Plenty of day hikes abound—and wildflowers in August, before fall colors emerge. Skyline Divide offers experienced hikers 80 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Whatcom County Tourism/ State of Washington Tourism

From there, it’s a two-minute walk across Fairhaven Village Green, a small park that hosts summer movies and festivals, to indie bookseller Village Books and Paper Dreams (1200 11th St.). There, a statue of Mark Twain welcomes patrons to this beloved store that’s been serving the community since 1980. (It turned over ownership to three of its employees in 2017.) Spend time perusing two floors of stacks—with about half the store new inventory and the other half used and bargain books. Sip a coffee at the upstairs café or pick up a quirky card or gift. You can always reserve titles in advance to pick up. They’re also more than happy to ship. On Saturdays, the bookstore hosts Story Time in the Kids’ Section.

The Whatcom Museum’s Lightcatcher Building (250 Flora St.) is also worth a stop. Designed by Olson Kundig Architects’ founding partner, Jim Olson, the 42,000-squarefoot-building hosts a rotating schedule of art exhibitions throughout the year. But its spectacular centerpiece is a 37-foot high and 180-foot-long translucent façade that reflects sunlight during the day and creates a lantern-like glow at night. Lightcatcher is also home to the Family Interactive Gallery (FIG), an educational resource for families with children younger than nine.

After, head downtown to take advantage of Bellingham’s lively arts scene. More than a dozen businesses participate in the First Friday Art Walk, held from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Expect cozy studios, artist meet-and-greets, and live music experiences.

Nearby, the nonprofit Pickford Film Center (1318 Bay St.) offers a daily, year-round schedule of independent, arthouse and non-commercial films. Right now, the eclectic lineup of films ranges from John Water’s 1988 cult hit, Hairspray, to The Race to Alaska, a documentary on the race through one of the most complex waterways in the world in competition for a $10,000 purse. In August, PFC offers free movies on top of the parkade at 1300 Commercial St. This year, they’re honoring Patrick Swayze with three of his most iconic films. To celebrate the actor’s would-be seventieth birthday, Boundary Bay Brewing Co. will be serving a Swayze Hazy IPA.

Nick Kelly/Visit Bellingham

trip planner

Downtown Bellingham Partnership

trip planner

Visit Bellingham

ABOVE First Friday Art Walk in the burgeoning art culture of Bellingham.

AT LEFT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The splendor of the coastal town of Bellingham. Aslan Brewing is just one of the gems of many craft breweries in Bellingham. Mt. Baker offers heart-pounding hikes.

miles of wildflower-filled meadows and views of Mt. Baker.

Church Mountain Trail is an easier trek for kids with some hiking experience.

After a tough climb, celebrate your ascent with a few pints. Bellingham is a beer drinker’s paradise. Start at Aslan Brewing Co. Brew Pub (1330 N. Forest St.), a cool, family-friendly brewery that serves certified organic beer, including an IPA, ale, lager, brown and a stout. For nonimbibers, Aslan brews a non-alcoholic beer, Pete’s NA. The food is as good as what’s in your glass. Try the waffle fry poutine, slow-roasted pork belly or bacon bison burger.

Started in 1995, Boundary Bay Brewing Co. (1107 Railroad Ave.) consistently racks up medals at the North American Beer Awards and was named one of ten great breweries in the United States by Food & Wine magazine.

Located in downtown Bellingham, its tap room serves more than a dozen beers and rotates seasonal and limited releases. Bonus: Boundary Bay’s beer garden is dog-friendly and hosts free summer concerts. Check out www.bbaybrewery.com/events for the full line-up of events.

For a low-key community vibe, snag a picnic table on the dog-friendly patio at Good Local Brews (2620 Northwest Ave.). It usually has at least ten local craft beers on tap and serves wine for a refreshing alternative. In addition, two food trucks serve food that pairs well with beer and hits the spot. Traditional Chinese potstickers, crispy bao buns and crab Rangoon from the Dumpling Girls (open Wednesday-Sunday 11 a.m.-7:30 p.m.) are fantastic. Ditto for the flavorful burritos from A Qué Taco (open Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-8 p.m.). A supreme burrito will easily feed two hungry people.

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BELLINGHAM, WASHINGTON

trip planner

EAT Aslan Brewing Co. Brew Pub www.aslanbrewing.com/ brewpub Boundary Bay Brewing Co. www.bbaybrewery.com Good Local Brews www.facebook.com/ goodsbrews Magdalena’s Crêperie www.magdalenascreperie.com Mallard Ice Cream www.mallardicecream.com Saltadena Bakery & Cake Shop www.saltadena.com

STAY The Chrysalis Inn & Spa www.hilton.com/en/hotels/ blittqq-the-chrysalis-innand-spa-bellingham Heliotrope Hotel www.heliotropehotel.com

PLAY Benjamin Benschneider

First Friday Art Walk www.downtownbellingham. com/art-walk Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures www.moondancekayak.com Pickford Film Center www.pickfordfilmcenter.org Village Books and Paper Dreams www.villagebooks.com Whatcom Museum’s Lightcatcher Building www.whatcommuseum.org/ visit/buildings/lightcatcher

AT TOP The extravaganza of a Lil’ Scrappy with chocolate cake and caramel sauce among other sweets. ABOVE The architecture of Whatcom Museum, alone, is worth the visit. BELOW Hand-packed goodness from Mallard Ice Cream.

Day SWEET TREATS • KAYAK TOURS Start the day with Saltadena Bakery (111 W. Holly St.) and a Lil’ Scrappy. The Salty Deena is a tasty mash-up of chocolate cake, cream cheese frosting, caramel sauce, flaky sea salt, whipped cream and salted chocolate chunk cookie bits. If that’s not sweet enough, pair it with a shakerato iced coffee with a creamy foam on top.

If you’re looking for a half-day excursion, the three-hour tour with Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures (909 Squalicum Way, #122) is a wonderful way to experience sea kayaking in the Salish Sea ($80/adult; $60/child). Launch from Larrabee State Park, twenty minutes south of Bellingham, and explore Chuckanut

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Sandstone formations, a Nature Conservancy-protected Island, and Wildcat Cove. Experienced guides cater beginners to skilled paddlers and go above and beyond to make guests feel safe. From flora, fauna, and marine wildlife to geological features, guides are savvy in local knowledge. Adventures sell out quickly, so be sure to book in advance.

Before you head out of town, swing by Mallard Ice Cream (1323 Railroad Ave.) for a scoop (or a hand-packed pint to go). There’s a creamy frozen treat for everyone with twentyeight basic flavors and adventurous options, such as Cereal Milk, Thai Tea, and Turmeric Black Pepper.

W I N E R Y . V I N E YA R D . E V E N T S

kinhavenwinery.com I 1050 Merlot Drive, Walla Walla, WA

Destination Vancouver

northwest destination

Tours and Outdoors

The door to the integrated city of Vancouver, BC, is flung open again written by Ryn Pfeuffer

WEDGED BETWEEN the spectacular white-peaked mountains of the Coastal Range and the orca-filled waters of the Strait of Georgia, Vancouver, BC, is one of the world’s most consistently ranked livable cities. It’s an easy place to take it easy, find your pace and explore various neighborhoods while enjoying the great outdoors.

Take to the water and enjoy a wet and high-speed ride on Sea Vancouver’s ninety-minute zodiac tour of Vancouver’s Inner Harbor and environs. Passengers can see seals, bald eagles, and scenic mountain views while hearing about the history of local plants, animals and indigenous people.

The tour departs from the shores of Coal Harbor at the Westin Bayshore.

It can get chilly on the water, even on a sunny day. Warm up with a quick ten-minute walk to Tableau Bar Bistro and live—and eat—like a Parisian. Few restaurants have mastered 84

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

Known as Mother Nature’s Stairmaster, Grouse Grind in Vancouver is two miles of uphill hiking.

ambiance like this one tucked inside the chic Loden Hotel. Think black and white checkered tile floors, an ornately framed chalkboard menu, and bistro classics such as steak frites, French onion soup and cassoulet.

Then, take a leisurely thirty-minute stroll across town (Thurlow Street is the most direct route) to the Vancouver Aquatic Centre dock for a quick water taxi across False Creek to Granville Island. There, check out the beautiful copper stills at The Liberty Distillery. Weekend tours are available when not in production for $15, followed by a complimentary tasting at the end. Spirits are raised with skillfully made craft cocktails and flights of gin, whiskey, and the Liberty Flight, a tour of gin, vodka, and whiskey.

For something more active, pedal and take in a balmy summer evening with a Sunset & City Lights Night Bike Tour (daily at 6:30 p.m., June-August). The tour offers relatively flat

VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Destination Vancouver

Destination BC/Tanya Goehring

Destination Vancouver/Sea Vancouver/B. Caissie

northwest destination

EAT Clough Club www.freehouse.co/clough-club Tableau Bar Bistro www.tableaubarbistro.com

STAY The Loden Hotel www.theloden.com Westin Bayshore www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/ yvrwi-the-westin-bayshorevancouver/overview

PLAY City Cycle Vancouver www.cyclevancouver.com Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden www.vancouverchinesegarden.com The Grouse Grind www.grousemountain.com/ grousegrind

Destination BC/Hubert Kang

Destination Vancouver/ Capilano Suspension Bridge Park

The Liberty Distillery www.thelibertydistillery.com Robert Sun Tours (A Wok Around Chinatown) www.awokaround.com Sea Vancouver www.seavancouver.com Treetops Adventure www.capbridge.com/explore/ treetops-adventure

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A Sea Vancouver 90-minute tour of the harbor. The Liberty Distillery on Granville Island is a must while on the island. Among treetops on the Capilano Suspension Bridge. Cycling tours of the city are a great way to learn more about Vancouver’s neighborhoods and sites. From A Wok Around Chinatown tour, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Gardens.

terrain with few hills and takes riders by False Creek, English Bay and the seawall path of Stanley Park. There’s also a summer-approved stop for gelato along the way. Electric-assist bikes are also available for booking.

Hailed as the next Gastown, historic Chinatown, one of the West Coast’s largest Asian communities is experiencing a rebirth with an influx of hip new restaurants and retailers, especially along Union Street. Walking tours of the Chinatown district called A Wok Around Chinatown that tells the tale of Robert Sung, a third-generation Chinese Canadian, from a cultural and culinary perspective.

When in Chinatown, make time to wander the Dr. Sun YatSen Classical Chinese Gardens. It’s the first classical Suzhou gardens to be developed outside of China. There is so much symbolism represented in the garden—references to success, abundance, longevity and male/female yin-yang energy.

For a fancy sundowner with friends, swing by the Clough Club in nearby Gastown. The Flamingo is a summery concoction of Absolut Elyx, coconut cream, lemon juice, simple syrup, vanilla tincture, Peychaud’s bitters and soda. The $70 drink serves four to six people.

If the call to adventure is still beckoning, walk in the evergreen canopy via a series of seven suspension bridges at Treetops Adventure at Capilano Suspension Bridge. Attached to eight 250-year-old, the walkway offers spectacular views of the canyon and forest floor. The two-and-a-half-hour climb starts at $61.

Or brave the Grouse Grind—a grueling two-mile uphill hike known locally as Mother Nature’s Stairmaster—for killer views of the city skyline. Less intrepid mortals can ascend via an aerial tramway. Mountain admission tickets cost $69. For $25, you can grab drinks, dinner and panoramic views of the peaks of Vancouver Island at sunset (available online only).

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1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Friday Harbor

Newport

Marysville Everett Chelan

Seattle Bellevue

Port Orchard

Shelton

Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Whidbey Island

Olympic National Park

Republic

Winthrop

Coupeville

Port Townsend

Aberdeen

North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon

Port Angeles Forks

Oroville

Bellingham

San Juan Islands

Leavenworth

Renton Kent Federal Way

Wilbur

Waterville

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Mount Rainier N.P.

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Kelso

Cathlamet

Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Richland

Mount Adams

Prosser

Pasco

Dayton

Walla Kennewick Walla

Goldendale Vancouver

Live

Think

Explore

18 Mount Olympus Brewing

44 Cloud Paper

72

Palouse Falls

20 Lady Yum

45 Clark Public Utilities

74

Wildcat Lake

21 Wild Sage Bistro

45 Bonneville Power Administration Ross Complex

76

Captain Whidbey Inn

78

Whatcom Museum

84

Vancouver, BC

22 Spooner Berry Farms 26 Crafted

86

Stevenson

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

45 Seattle City Light 46 Monteillet Fromagerie

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022

Asotin

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Until Next Time Gliding over the Salish Sea. photo by Jason Hummel Photography/ State of Washington Tourism