TRIP PLANNER: SNOQUALMIE PASS PG. 88
DIY: Mini A-Frame Kits
Romantic Winery Stays
Rugged + Relaxing Idaho
Make This
Tonight RECIPES + STORIES OF WASHINGTON’S TOP CHEFS DO A DECADENT CHOCOLATE CRAWL
1889mag.com $5.95 display until March 31, 2022
LIVE
THINK
EXPLORE
WASHINGTON February | March
volume 29
ALCOHOL BEVERAGE LAWS VARY BY STATE. PLEASE BE GUIDED ACCORDINGLY. © 2020 ELYSIAN BREWING COMPANY, SEATTLE, WA
seaside_
seaside is for
Sure, I’ll go on vacation with my parents
Want your kids to want to hang out? Take them somewhere with things they love to do. Somewhere like Seaside–where there’s all the bike riding, arcade gaming, cotton candy eating, boogie boarding, seal feeding and s’mores roasting you and your kids could ever want.
@visitseasideOR
seaside_1889_9x10.875_campfire.indd 1
seasideOR.com
12/16/21 1:37 PM
Alpental at The Summit at Snoqualmie.
4 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Season Pass
The Summit at Snoqualmie
SNOQUALMIE PASS is the place to set your alpine spirit free. The Summit at Snoqualmie offers snowshoeing as well as alpine, backcountry or cross-country skiing and snow tubing. It’s the perfect time to plan an early spring adventure. (pg. 88)
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 5
FEATURES
Theo Chocolate in Seattle is but one luscious stop on our DIY chocolate crawl through a state filled with inventive chocolatiers.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022 • volume 29
58 Cacao Know-How On these DIY chocolate tours around the state, life is sweet as you discover the places where chocolatiers are making the world of confections a better place. written by Danielle Centoni
64 Savor the Shared Flavor Let your next dish be award-winning with recipes and inspiration from five Washington chefs honored by the James Beard Foundation. written by Cathy Carroll
74 You’ll experience friluftsliv, the happiness of being in the mountains, just by perusing these classic photos of a century of Northwest wilderness skiing, curated by a local legend.
6
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Cameron Zegers
Pacific Northwest Ski Culture: Written in the Snows
Slots, craps, blackjack, roulette, bingo, weekend getaways, culinary artistry, live shows, dancing, sports, spa – whatever it is you want, you’ll find it here. Get into everything at EverythingTulalip.com
DEPARTMENTS
LIVE 16 SAY WA?
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022 • volume 29 Idaho Tourism
Get après-ski-ready gear. Go off-piste on the Snohomish Ale Trail. Sample Fretland’s Americana tunes, best suited for front porches, spiced apple cider and crisp night air. Painting one the planet’s best places.
22 FOOD + DRINK
A Navy cook turned top chef returns to his hometown, Spokane, with acclaimed brews, barbecue and beachy flavors.
26 FARM TO TABLE
From the Skagit Valley to Pike Place, a classic Northwest crop satisfies. Plus, savor squash season with these Northwest chefs’ recipes.
32 HOME + DESIGN
Historic Fort Worden is re-deployed as a public arts and culture incubator. Fan the flames of firepits and more trending design in your backyard and beyond. DIY: Build a pre-fab, mini A-frame for a fun studio or cabin.
38 MIND + BODY
When you mix pluck and a puck, it’s a dauntless path to becoming Kraken goalie. Here’s what it takes to win.
92
40 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Christopher Mast/NHL via Getty Images
Women artists across the state are emerging as talents with diverse, powerful voices and oeuvres. Here’s who to watch.
THINK 48 STARTUP
When an entrepreneur questioned where and how the meat on his plate was raised, it led to success.
50 WHAT’S GOING UP
New technology for wood from Northwest forests is fostering a carbon-sequestering alternative for offices, apartments and houses.
52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
Gonzaga Institute for Hate Studies Director Kristine Hoover talks hate, history and shifting attitudes.
38
40 12 13 94 96
Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time
Emma Noyes
54 MY WORKSPACE
Like slicing through a layer cake, a Seattle pastry chef breaks barriers in the business and is helping others do the same.
56 GAME CHANGER
Meet the force behind solutions for labor shortages, creating workplace diversity and employing people with intellectual disabilities who lost jobs during the pandemic.
EXPLORE 82 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Test out the adage “free heel, free mind” on these new Nordic ski trails with views, snowshoeing and fat-biking, too.
84 ADVENTURE
Wineries aren’t just for daytime anymore. Stay in these idyllic spots and wake up with views of the vineyard.
86 LODGING
Rediscover romance at a former mansion along the Wenatchee River.
88 TRIP PLANNER
COVER
With so many ways to play around Snoqualmie Pass, you’ll need this weekend guide for getting the most from an early spring adventure.
photo by Brooke Fitts Sawyer restaurant, Ballard (see “Savor the Shared Flavor,” pg. 64)
8
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
92 NW DESTINATION
Make it rugged and relaxing on a weekend retreat to Northern Idaho for endless hiking, cozy cabins and well-deserved hot springs. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
CONTRIBUTORS
ALEX GARLAND Photographer Farm to Table
JONATHAN SHIPLEY Writer Mind + Body
DANIELLE CENTONI Writer Cacao Know-How
JACKIE DODD Writer + Photographer Beervana
“The Skagit River Valley, just north of Seattle, is one of Washington’s most fertile landscapes. Maybe better known for its tulip season, the work done by farmers in the valley is sometimes overlooked. I’m thrilled to help bring a spotlight to two young farmers who are passionate about feeding the Pacific Northwest.” (pg. 26)
“In writing about Seattle Kraken goalkeeper Chris Driedger I got to interview my first NHL player for the coolest hockey team in the league. As for who the better skater is between us—he is. I still have nightmare flashbacks from the birthday parties of my youth at Olympia’s fabled Skateland.” (pg. 38)
“Writing about chocolate is a huge challenge because the cravings are so distracting. All I could think about was biting into a cherry cordial from Boehm’s or a mallow-filled Murphy from Spokandy. But I’m glad I powered through. Washington is one of my favorite states to adventure in, and now that I know where all the chocolate is, my next trip is going to be epic.” (pg. 58)
“I may be biased, but the Pacific Northwest has the most outstanding breweries and overall beer scene. No matter how many breweries I visit, there always seems to be a new one somewhere within driving distance that I haven’t tried yet. Maybe it’s the fact that the majority of the hops grown on this continent come from the Yakima Valley region, maybe it’s our superior water supply, or possibly the farm-to-fermenter mentality of our brewers, but there is no greater place than here to be a craft beer fan.” (pg. 22)
Alex Garland is a freelance photographer from Seattle specializing in documentary, photojournalism and editorial photo work in the Pacific Northwest and beyond. When not working, Alex can usually be found chasing waterfalls.
10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
Jonathan Shipley is originally from the Pacific Northwest and is now based in Atlanta, Georgia. His sports writing was recently nominated for a Pushcart Prize.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Danielle Centoni is a Portlandbased food and travel writer and cookbook author with deep Skagit Valley roots. Her latest, upcoming cookbook is Just a Spritz: 57 Simple Sparkling Sips with Low to No Alcohol (Artisan, May 2022).
Jackie Dodd is a writer, photographer and cookbook author serving up beer-infused recipes in Seattle.
EDITOR-AT-LARGE Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Cathy Carroll CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
BEERVANA COLUMNIST
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Jackie Dodd Kathy Arrenas, Lincoln Bardon, Kenneth Braxton, Danielle Centoni, Melissa Dalton, MaryRose Denton, Richard Durrance, Ellen Hiatt, Dameon Pesanti, Ben Salmon, Jonathan Shipley, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting Jackie Dodd, Brooke Fitts, Alex Garland, Cameron Zegers
Headquarters
70 SW Century Dr. Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702
835 NW Bond St. Suite 200 Bend, Oregon 97703
www.1889mag.com/subscribe @1889washington
All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11
FROM THE
EDITOR-AT-LARGE IN KEEPING with the season, we targeted chocolate for our Best Places theme this year. The truth is that when we are close to good chocolate we are in one of life’s best places. Danielle Centoni takes us on a decadent odyssey of her own making—Washington’s top chocolate regions. Think of packing your bag for a week’s wandering with only one goal—to find and taste the best craft chocolate. That’s what happens on page 58. For those who want to feather their nest with comfort food, try making the squash and roasted butternut squash soup on page 30 from Stephanie King, of Kitchen & Market in Seattle. On the east side of the state, definitely don’t miss Top Chef Chad White’s latest, High Tide Lobster Bar in Spokane (pg. 25). His well-loved cevicheria, Zona Blanca, was his first act in town. If it’s even half as good, it will be outstanding. Kraken fans, here is your chance to get a little closer to the man behind the mask. Goalie Chris Driedger talks about his determination to get to this stage and what he does for nutrition and workouts. Turn to Mind & Body on page 38. Our Gallery comes to us from ski historian Lowell Skoog, with his new book, Written in the
12 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Snows, in which he traces Washington skiing from the late 1800s to present day. The photos beginning on page 74 are extraordinary and inspirational. Not exclusively on the skiing theme, our Trip Planner (pg. 88) takes us up Snoqualmie Pass with a full winter agenda of spending more than a day at Summit. We make an excellent case for taking the full weekend to explore new areas and restaurants, whose roses often go unsmelled in the rush to get back to Seattle or other points. Finally, a good hoorah comes in our Northwest Destination piece. It implores us to challenge ourselves to unplug a little more in cabins in the Boise and Payette national forests to hit a few of Idaho’s many hot springs. Turn to page 92. What did you create during the pandemic? When Covid cancels concerts, make more music. Hillary Fretland and her band Fretland hunkered down and released two full soulful Americana albums during the pandemic. Turn to page 18 to read Fretland’s story and listen to the new album, which is getting heaps of praise. We recommend turning up Fretland and sitting thee down with a smooth and elegant Chef ’s Manhattan from Mandy Wong, Bourbon Steak Seattle’s lead bartender (pg. 22). Cheers!
1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington
WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/ in-focus photo by Latoria Detterich This spot near Seabeck offers stunning views of the Olympic Mountains.
NEVER MISS AN ISSUE Read 1889 Washington’s Magazine and 1859 Oregon’s Magazine anywhere, on any device, with our digital edition. Follow us today on Issuu.com.
1889 ADVENTURE MAIL More Washington, delivered to your inbox! Sign up for 1889’s Adventure Mail newsletter and get access to the latest trip ideas, giveaways, recipes and more.
www.bit.ly/ statehoodmedia digital
www.1889mag.com/1889-newsletter
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
13
SAY WA? 16 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 26 HOME + DESIGN 32 MIND + BODY 38
pg. 26 Discover how best to enjoy winter squash, such as these gorgeous varieties from Skagit Valley’s Boldly Grown Farm.
Alex Garland
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 40
WASHINGTON STATE YAKIMA VALLEY
WARM WELCOMES AND VINEYARD VIEWS
Come raise a glass where Washington wine was born.
Plan a Road Trip for Spring Sipping in Yakima Vaey Wine Country
Come TO THE SOURCE • visityakima.com
say wa?
Tidbits + To-dos
Not Your Stereotypical Spice Get unapologetically authentic flavors of Indian street food with Spice Waala of Seattle. The company strives to overcome the Indian food stereotypes by sharing the founders’ favorite foods from Calcutta and Delhi. Uttam Mukherjee and Aakanksha Sinha started the brand in 2018 at the South Lake Union market and have restaurants in Capitol Hill and Ballard. They are committed to social justice, paying living wages plus benefits and serving delicious, fresh, affordably priced food. www.spicewaala.com
Rings of Fire Mount Rainier, part of the Ring of Fire—the Northwest’s volcanically active peaks for about 13 million years—has inspired hand-carved rings symbolizing love for the ages. The fourteen-karat white gold wedding band depicting the tallest mountain in Washington and the Cascade Range is set with a diamond full moon rising over the summit. It’s made by Green Lake Jewelry Works of Seattle and Bellevue, which emphasizes ethical, sustainable practices. www.greenlakejewelry.com
Dog-Friendly Seattle Seattle ranked seventeenth in the U.S. for dog fitness according to a recent study of the fifty most populous cities. The research suggests that, just as in humans, consistent exercise can aid a pet’s blood pressure, stress levels and cardiovascular health. The study by website and app OneVet judged factors including the number of dog parks, hiking trails, dog trainers, dog walkers’ fees and average temperature. www.onevet.ai/dog-fitness
16 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
say wa?
Culinary Adventure Tents at Alderbrook
Alderbrook Resort & Spa
Getting cozy in a tent hasn’t typically been associated with chef-driven dining experiences—until now. Alderbrook Resort & Spa’s new Culinary Adventure Tents are cozy pods offering seasonally themed dinners and iconic views of Hood Canal in Union. Expect a focus on spring and greens in March, and in April, oysters and herbs. It’s casual and family friendly, too, with burgers and the local favorite, fish and chips. The fun pods popped up during renovations to dining rooms and other areas this spring. www.alderbrookresort.com
ur yo AR k r D ma EN
Siren Sweater
CA
L
Function reigns on the mountain, but form takes over for après-ski and spring rambles in town. The Helly Hansen “Siren” sweater offers both. Inspired by the traditional knits designed to keep fishermen warm, this cable knit has the same softness and comfort with a cotton-blend yarn and merino wool. The Sumner-based brand with Norwegian roots blends the Scandinavian aesthetic with Northwest style—the mock neck keeps you snug and elevates the look. www.hellyhansen.com
A Beer WAnderland WAnderland in Zillah is reopening after renovations, offering chocolate and beer pairings in February, while Wandering Hops in Yakima has a new menu and trivia nights. They’re embracing their roots for upcoming releases of fun, creative brews. Birthday Cake IPA and Milkshake IPAs are due back along with new experimental IPAs and fruited sours. Watch for Wanderburgers on the grill and smoked ribs and brisket. www.wanderinghop.com www.facebook.com/WAnderlandZillah
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
17
say wa?
Musician
Ready for Anything
Snohomish Americana band Fretland released two albums during the pandemic written by Ben Salmon FRETLAND WROTE and recorded its self-titled debut album and readied it for release in early 2020, to be followed by lots of touring and promotional work. And then along came Covid-19, which blew those plans to bits. So the Snohomish-based band decided to just … do it all again. “I think we were feeling like we had lost so much momentum with the first album, and we were really trying to be proactive,” said Fretland’s front-person, Hillary Fretland. “Like, ‘OK, things are going to get back on track next year, and we’ll be able to tour again and everything will be great. So let’s be ready for that.’” The band already had some songs written for its sophomore effort, Fretland said. So with a summer’s worth of shows canceled, they wrote some more, and then as the pandemic stretched on, they scheduled a recording session at The Unknown studio in Anacortes, with the hopes of releasing it in early 2021 and picking up where they’d left off. The result of that session is Could Have Loved You, Fretland’s second album—and the second album released during
Americana band Fretland suggests that their tender, lovelorn music is best suited for front porches, spiced apple cider and crisp night air.
Jake Hanson
Listen on Spotify
the pandemic. It’s a collection of nine sturdy and soulful songs about love and loss that hover effortlessly near the intersection of downcast folk music, twangy rock ‘n’ roll and elegant indie-pop, and despite coming out ten months after Fretland, it doesn’t feel like a rushed follow-up or a collection of leftovers. Instead, it’s a leveling up of sorts—an impressive introduction from a band with limitless promise and potential. At the center of Fretland is its namesake, who grew up in a musical family and was writing songs on the piano before she was 10. (“Even then,” she says, “they were pretty sad.”) In high school, she started playing open mics around her hometown, and then in her mid-20s, she formed the band “just for fun,” she said. Before long, however, the band was getting festival gigs and earning praise for its warm, well-crafted Americana music. The praise hasn’t stopped. Early last year, Rolling Stone made the song “Too Much” one of its country music picks of the week, and late last year, The Seattle Times music writer Michael Rietmulder named Could Have Loved You one of his favorite Washington albums of 2021. So the momentum is building around Fretland (the band) again. And while Fretland (the singer-songwriter) calls the stage her “favorite place on Earth,” she and her bandmates are taking a wait-and-see approach this time, knowing they have two full albums of excellent songs to play for people when the time is right. “I think it’s fair to say we aren’t releasing a third album in 2022,” Fretland said with a laugh. “I think at this point, I’m just letting the leaves fall where they may.”
18
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
NEW EXHIBIT JAN 29–SEPT 25, 2022 HIGHDESERTMUSEUM.ORG
say wa?
Bibliophile
Brush with Beauty Artist connects Rainier’s nature and cultural history in stories, paintings interview by Cathy Carroll
MOUNT RAINIER National Park: An Artist’s Tour, is a collection of more than eighty watercolor paintings and anecdotes from award-winning artist Molly Hashimoto, who’s been exploring and depicting this national treasure for decades. The Seattle-based author, also an art teacher, reveals in the book how creating this art has deepened and preserved her experiences in the park, and how anyone can reap the same satisfaction in doing so. Her atmospheric palette captures Rainier’s natural beauty, historic landmarks and wildlife—including marmots, of course—creating a keepsake for park aficionados and a compelling inspiration for the uninitiated. Mount Rainier National Park: An Artist’s Tour offers self-effacing accounts of solo adventures—with bears, precarious precipices and paintbrushes—in one the planet’s best places.
20
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Tell us about encouraging readers to get started creating art around the beauty of Mount Rainier and the satisfaction people derive from it. Beginning painters have told me many times that trying to paint something they’ve seen gives them a new appreciation for the colors, structure and details of a natural scene or object. To encourage people, I suggest that it is a new way to experience nature, and by trying this they are reaching out and meeting the world halfway. By drawing and painting and looking closely, they become active participants. The amount of skill that they bring is not the important part of the endeavor—it is the careful observation and attempt to honor their experience of nature that matters. What areas of the park would you suggest people visit in late winter or spring? Longmire, reached through the Nisqually Entrance, is accessible even when it has snowed heavily. The Longmire Historic District contains one of the most notable groups of buildings in any U.S. national park. You can see the old hot springs on Trail of the Shadows, the rustic Administration Building and Elcaine Longmire’s cabin (son of the original settler). Paradise, reached through the Nisqually Entrance, is spectacular for sledding, snowshoeing and skiing in winter and spring, but be aware that the Park Service requires chains to drive there, even on a fine day. Can you share one of your book’s anecdotes that would most inspire a visit? Glacier Basin at Rainier makes a wonderful, not-too-difficult
Molly Hashimoto has taught plein air workshops throughout the West’s national parks and in Italy. (photo: David Hashimoto)
early summer hike. When we left one morning in July it was overcast in Seattle, and by the time we got to Enumclaw it was misting and raining lightly. Not a very promising start. Still, from experience I knew that the east side of Mount Rainier often has surprisingly good weather, since it basks in the mountain’s vast rain shadow. As we turned into the White River Entrance, the weather suddenly cleared, the sun shone, and the mountain was clearly visible, glowing above the frothy cocoa color of the White River. My spirits lifted and all my big-city worries fled with the clouds. What are you working on? Do you have any upcoming events planned? I’ll be a virtual presenter February 25 and 26 at the Yellowstone Summit, a gathering of scientists, artists and writers to celebrate and educate the public about Yellowstone National Park. I also have plans to teach in person for the North Cascades Institute in June. I am working on a new book, Trees of the West: An Artist’s Guide, to be published in fall by Mountaineers Books. It will be a companion volume to Birds of the West: An Artist’s Guide.
National Historic Landmark
The perfect place for a relaxing getaway
10 Minutes North of Poulsbo, WA 10 Minutes from Kingston Ferry
Take a ste back in time in one of Washin ton's Oldest Preserved Towns . bakerprovisions.com (360) 297-9500 . generalstore.com (360) 297-7637 -
-
(360)-930-0044 www.house11taproom.com (
www.
(360) 297-4659
.
SHOP wDINE PLAY RELAX ww.portgamble.com
Olalla Winery
March 4 & 5, 2022
Point No Point Lighthouse - Hansville
Easy to get to by Ferry, Bridge, Boat, or Auto
Celebrate the Sun!
Join us for a weekend of family fun as we shake off the winter blues and celebrate the coming of the spring and summer seasons in Sunny Sequim. sequimsunshinefestival.com visitsunnysequim.com 1-800-737-8462
Find Places to Stay and Things to Do at
food + drink
ABOVE, FROM LEFT Patrons of Sound 2 Summit enjoy the newly released barrelaged imperial stout. The popular German Chocolate Porter at Audacity Brewing.
Beervana
Ale Trail-headiness From the official route to an eclectic and tasty greater scene, Snohomish satisfies written and photographed by Jackie Dodd THE SNOHOMISH ALE TRAIL winds five miles down and across the town center, dotted with breweries like berries on a vine. Each business brings something different to the world of small-town craft beer, all united in raising the tide of interest in their liquid creations. While the official ale trail includes just four breweries, the unofficial trail and larger brewery scene includes much more. Two of the original six breweries on the ale trail have disappeared—perhaps a sign of the times, or simply the difficulty of making it in the craft beer industry in general. The owners of Sound 2 Summit opted to focus all their energy on the growing brand and closed their original project, Lost Canoe. Scrappy Punk Brewing closed its doors on the last day of 2020. This isn’t a reflection of the area’s appetite for craft beer, which is thriving. The ale trail may not travel in a straight line, but the trajectory of this one is certainly up. At the trail’s northernmost end is Sound 2 Summit, which has been earning awards and praise in the past few years. With a head brewer
Photo: Bourbon Steak Seattle
Cocktail Card
who has degrees in biology and brewing science, it’s no surprise that the beer is clean, consistent and endlessly drinkable. They also boast a crowd-pleasing food menu, event space and family-friendly vibe. If starting here means ending here because you don’t want to leave, it will have been worth the drive to Snohomish, about 24 miles northeast of Seattle. If you continue along your beery way, Josh’s Taps and Caps is a few blocks down the road. While not an official member of the ale trail, it’s worth a stop. Taproom, bottle shop, neighborhood beer bar, this little space has a well-curated selection of beer from near and far. If you want to do an at-home ale trail gathering, or just sample some interesting beer, owners Josh and Mara Arnold’s extensive knowledge and selection will set you up with everything you need. From there, you’re only about a half-mile from Audacity Brewing. Small, and often quiet, this brewery tucked away in an industrial park is a good place for a quick quaff. Audacity earns its name with bold and extravagant flavor choices that you’ll either love or hate, but their aim was never mediocrity. To eschew the mainstream, go here. Audacity is also known for its commitment to the local environment, sourcing local ingredients and working to keep its carbon footprint low. If hunger strikes, you’re a half-mile from Trails End Taphouse and Restaurant, which contrary to the name, is not the end of our ale trail. With a great selection of draft beer, as well as a decent selection of bottles and cans, it’s the perfect place to pop in for a pint. Their menu is upscale pub food, from wood-fired pizzas with gourmet toppings, to a filet mignon with caramelized onions and Pacific Northwest blue cheese. A few blocks away, SnoTown Brewer is a joint that more than one local has described as “if your homebrewing uncle opened a dive bar,” which seems fitting. It’s fun, funky and easy to hang out in. Five blocks away but a world apart is Spada Farmhouse Brewery. Opened just over a year ago in a historic brick building in downtown Snohomish, this farmhouse beer originated in a barn at Spada Farms. The new location was a huge step for the brewery and an opportunity to show what they’re made of. The beer is a wild fermented take on popular styles and a hit with the locals. It’s a must-visit, even for those who aren’t sure about wild yeast. The beer, wine, and food scene in Snohomish is growing at a rapid pace, that serves its residents’ preference for thoughtfully made products. Credit the residents, the businesses, or the beautiful location that inspires them all, no matter the genesis, this is a scene with nowhere to go but up.
This cocktail highlights two whiskeys from Westland Distillery, which crafts spirits in Seattle’s SoDo neighborhood (south of downtown). This libation reveals true Pacific Northwest terroir, with the Westland Garryana showcasing indigenous oak.
recipe courtesy of Bourbon Steak Seattle’s lead bartender, Mandy Wong
• 1 ounce Westland Distillery single malt whiskey • 1 ounce Westland Distillery’s Garryana Edition 6 • 1 ounce Carpano Antica Formula vermouth • 2 dashes Angostura bitters
Chef’s Manhattan
Pour ingredients over ice, stir and strain into a chilled glass, garnished with a cherry.
22 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
HERE’S TO WHATEVER OPENS YOUR DOOR Timberline Vodka is created by and for the “Outer Class” in a little part of the world called Hood River where there’s a lot more outside than inside. We distill our enthusiasm with Pacific Northwest apples, grain, and glacier-fed spring water from Mt. Hood. Outwards! D O U B L E G O L D W I N N E R 2021 San Francisco World Spirits Competition
A proud partner of The Freshwater Trust, a nonprofit with a mission to preserve and restore freshwater ecosystems, including rivers, streams and creeks across the West. Distilled and bottled by Hood River Distillers, Inc., Hood River, Oregon. © 2021 Timberline ® Vodka, 40% Alc/Vol, Gluten Free. www.timberlinevodkas.com. Stay in Control ®.
food + drink
CRAVINGS
Gastronomy
Nationally acclaimed Los Hernandez Tamales builds on the recipe from the founder’s sister, Leocadia Sanchez.
Los Hernandez Tamales written by Cara Strickland IN 1990, FELIPE HERNANDEZ needed a job. His family had always been known for their tamales, so he worked with his sister to get the technique right and opened for business in Union Gap. Hernandez started with the basics: he milled his own dried corn to make the masa and made each tamale by hand. Over time, he played around with the cooking techniques until the tamales were perfect. Though they started with the classics, pork and chicken, the surrounding bounty of the Yakima Valley got them thinking about asparagus. After a lot of testing, they introduced their asparagus and pepper Jack cheese tamale as a spring seasonal offering. They only use local asparagus in season, usually mid-April into June, so mark your calendar—they sell out daily. If you can’t make it to one of the locations in Union Gap and Yakima, you can now order online. In 2018, the James Beard Foundation confirmed what so many fans already knew about this Washington treasure when they gave it an America’s Classics award, recognizing food that has stood the test of time as a community pillar. Through it all, Los Hernandez has remained a small family business, crafting their tamales with care, and in spring, with asparagus.
CIDER
STREET FOOD
Maybe you’ve had Finnriver’s ciders, their large bottles adorned with botanical illustrations. Besides classic ciders, they also embrace local and seasonal flavors such as black currant and habanero. But if you’re willing to make the drive out to the peninsula, you’ll find more than just cider awaiting you in this spot near Port Townsend. Their libations pair well with lighter fare such as wraps and on Thursdays and wood-fired pizza on the weekends in the cider garden. Try their fortified wines, available only here at the source, or for an immersive experience, join one of the regular tours which include a tasting.
Chef Andrae Bopp’s last Walla Walla venture was a restaurant in a gas station, serving possibly the best food that sort of establishment has ever seen. His latest spot, AK’s Mercado, in the heart of downtown Walla Walla, includes all of the beloved touches from the last restaurant—house-made tortillas and smoked meats—with killer cocktails conceived by the great mixologist Jim German, as well as more seating and menu items, mostly upscale riffs on street food. One thing isn’t changing, though— everything is delicious.
124 CENTER ROAD CHIMACUM www.finnriver.com
PHO-RRITO
EGGS BENEDICT
3706 MAIN ST UNION GAP
This unassuming restaurant near Eastern Washington University goes all in on Benedicts. With twelve options, from the classic and other iterations, from veggie and California, to the Fireman’s Benedict (smoked sausage, roasted peppers, jalapeño and Sriracha hollandaise) and the grilled-cheese Benedict (envision a grilled cheese sandwich in place of English muffins with the sun-dried tomato hollandaise) there’s a Benedict for every mood.
6411 WEST NOB HILL BLVD YAKIMA www.loshernandeztamales.com
24 WEST 1ST STREET CHENEY www.benesamfix.com
24 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
21 EAST MAIN STREET WALLA WALLA www.andraeskitchen.com
Imagine everything you love about pho and then wrap it in a tortilla. You get a pho-rritto, ready to dip in the accompanying pho broth that’s been cooking for hours. Choose meat or seafood, and enjoy the mingling flavors with house sauces. While this is a completely crave-able entree, you won’t want to sleep on the rest of the menu. From customizable bao buns to spring rolls and peanut curry noodle salad, there’s lots to love at this tiny, quirky spot. 713 WEST GARLAND AVENUE SPOKANE www.littlenoodle spokane.com
BEST PLACES FOR
J5 COFFEE Whether you’re headed to the tiny espresso bar or the flagship shop, both in downtown Leavenworth, you’re sure to find something caffeinated and tasty. While they are known for their espresso and micro-roasted beans, they bring that same level of care to their hot chocolate. It’s made with 5 Sparrows House Chocolate and steamed milk—simple and decadent. 707 EAST US HIGHWAY 2 215 9TH STREET LEAVENWORTH www.j5coffee.com
DOTE COFFEE Stop into Lincoln Square for a smooth drinking ganache topped with whipped cream and shaved chocolate (as if you needed more). This cup is fabulous all by itself, but if you’re feeling like an adult beverage, you can try one of their spiked concoctions with whiskey, tequila or rum. 500 BELLEVUE WAY BELLEVUE www.dailydote.com
VELOCITY This coffee shop is known for their high quality beans and attention to detail, as well as their specialty coffee drinks. Their
Photos: Chad White Hospitality Group
HOT CHOCOLATE creativity extends to their hot chocolate, which is delicious as is, but you can add house flavors— orange is particularly nice, but you’re always safe in the hands of these deft baristas. 29 NORTH BEACH ROAD #1966 PORT TOWNSEND www.brownbear baking.com
THEO CHOCOLATE Theo chocolate has cachet, not just in Washington, but nationwide, and for good reason. They’ve blended high quality sourcing and painstaking technique to give you chocolate that tastes wonderful and that you can feel good about eating. It’s no wonder that they have a drinking chocolate you can enjoy at home, perfect for cold evenings. A step above your average mix, this one is organic and made with 55 percent dark chocolate crumbles for a rich and creamy texture. Keep an eye out for seasonal limited edition flavors. For more on chocolate tours at Theo Chocolate and others around the state, see pg. 58. 3400 PHINNEY AVE N SEATTLE AND SHIPPING NATIONWIDE www.theochocolate.com
ABOVE Get East Coast flavors with lobster rolls at High Tide Lobster Bar in Spokane. AT RIGHT Hometown boy makes good food: Spokane’s Chad White brings eclectic flavors back from a far-flung career.
Dining
From Navy Cook to Top Chef, Spokane Native Son Serves Brews, BBQ, Beachy Bests written by Cara Strickland IN 2015, SHORTLY after competing in Bravo’s thirteenth season of “Top Chef,” Chef Chad White came home to Spokane. He’d been away since he was 19, learning to cook in the Navy, then opening several restaurants in California and Mexico. In Spokane, he opened a new concept for the city—the ceviche restaurant, Zona Blanca, serving fish flown in from Hawaii daily. It immediately became a smash. Riding the seafood wave, White opened High Tide Lobster Bar, serving East Coast favorites such as lobster rolls and clam chowder, and followed it with a second such location in Spokane. The latest entry is TTs Old Iron Brewery and Barbecue, a collaboration with brewery owner Travis Thosath, with a menu that includes house smoked meats and handcrafted barbecue sauces. White returned to Spokane with an eye on bringing new flavors as well as to giving back to his hometown. His efforts have paid off with local awards and a James Beard Foundation nomination for Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific in 2020. His efforts to keep the Spokane restaurant industry healthy and thriving during the pandemic complements his work giving back through fundraisers and events. Whatever he does next, it’s destined to be delicious. SPOKANE AND SPOKANE VALLEY www.cwhospitalitygroup.com
READ MORE
For more about Washington chefs honored by the James Beard Foundation and their recipes they’ve shared, see pg. 64
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 25
farm to table
A selection of the squash varieties grown by Boldly Grown Farm near Mount Vernon.
26 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
farm to table
Farm to Table
Savoring Squash Season From Skagit Valley’s Boldly Grown Farm to Pike Place, a classic Northwest crop satisfies written by Corinne Whiting photography by Alex Garland AMY FRYE AND Jacob Slosberg of Skagit Valley’s Boldly Grown Farm have had an eventful couple of years. Not only did they welcome a second child during the pandemic, but last June they also bought new land for their familyowned, certified organic, mixed vegetable farm, in its seventh year of operation. Boldly Grown Farm launched in 2015 with just one acre, and they’ve since expanded to twenty-five acres. They farm on land rented from Viva Farms and another private owner. By next season, however, the couple hopes to have moved all operations to their new fifty-eightacre property in Bow, just ten minutes north. They’re taking over an old dairy farm, and are deconstructing the old infrastructure so the materials can be reused. The couple’s farm places an emphasis on high-quality fall and winter vegetables for wholesale markets, with most products sold between September and March. They also run a thriving community supported agriculture (CSA) program with 260 members. The farm’s major focus is on what Slosberg calls “a pretty typical Pacific Northwest crop,” winter squash, which is actually a fruit. They grow five acres of thirteen to fifteen varieties, planting in the spring and harvesting from late August into mid-October. These varieties ripen at different speeds, yet they are all harvested within a sixweeks before the first hard frost. Some squash are best eaten within a couple weeks of harvest while others need three to four months for the starches to properly convert to sugars. Although squash is widely grown throughout our country, the Northwest offers very little pressure when it comes to pests and disease. “A mild growingclimate is a plus,” Slosberg said. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 27
farm to table
Amy Frye and Jacob Slosberg, owners of Boldly Grown Farm in the Skagit River Valley of Washington, hold their favorite squash near their CSA packing facility.
The extreme heat this past year, however, caused some squash to shut down early, making small fruits or losing fruit, because crops began to pollinate during the heat dome. Boldly Grown squash varieties include winter sweet, Shishigatani, buttercup, honeyboat and their longest-storing squash, the tetsukabuto. They’ve been growing this Japanese variety (related to kabocha) for nearly five years, and it has involved much trial and error. “We tried a lot late in the season that later became compost,” said Slosberg. They also grow 3- to 5-pound baby blue Hubbard squash, a more approachable, scaled-down variety of blue Hubbard, which is typically 8 to 15 pounds. “We sell to a range of household sizes,” said Frye, “so the smaller sizes have been popular.” The couple’s favorite way to enjoy winter squash? “For ease of preparation, simply roasting or cubing and roasting,” said Frye. Slosberg prefers other options such as using Asian flavors, adding toasted sesame oil and sesame seeds. Their farm-focused home menus include squash and black-bean enchiladas, pumpkin soup 28 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
and the duo’s tried-and-true, decade-old pizza recipe, featuring butternut squash and rosemary, plus a cheese like Gruyère. Weathering the past couple years is a testament to their talent. “We’re fortunate that our market is heavily focused on grocery, versus restaurants or farmers’ markets, and there’s been a demand for CSA,” said Frye. Yet the stresses of running an essential business during a pandemic have ranged from worries over employee safety and supply chain issues, to navigating an increase in supply expenses. It may not be an ideal time to be building at their new location, but, Frye said, “We’re going to roll with it the best we can.” The pair is excited about their new address right off of Chuckanut Drive, the state’s original scenic byway, and finally fulfilling their dream of having a farm store. Boldly Grown Farm products also can be found at stores such as Whole Foods Market, Haggen Food Grocery Stores, Metropolitan Market and Central Co-op, and from the San Juan Islands and Port Townsend to Bellingham and Olympia.
farm to table
Seattle’s Pike Place Market is another prime squash-hunting spot. Stephanie King, founder of Kitchen & Market, a sleek, new Pike Place space that features fresh goods, meal kits and recipe ideas, prefers delicata, simply because it doesn’t have to be peeled, and can be roasted using a bit of olive oil, salt and pepper. King advises that shoppers seek out firm squash without bruises that feel heavy in the hand. Throughout winter, Kitchen & Market stocks an abundance of the crop, all sourced from Washington farms. “We have whole squash, sliced squash—we actually sell sliced delicata with our honey harissa glaze—it’s the easiest and most delicious side,” said King, “plus butternut squash soup, and our squash and sage risotto meal kit, which has both butternut and delicata squash.” King contends that the best part of opening a store in Pike Place Market is its neighbors. “Pike & Western Wine Shop (right next door) is lovely, and we’re surrounded by fresh seafood everywhere,” she said. “And if you’re looking for produce, Frank’s is definitely a staple.”
FROM TOP Boldly Grown Farm employees pack Brussels sprouts in CSA boxes. A Boldly Grown Farm employee packs spaghetti squash and broccoli root for the CSA program.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 29
farm to table
Delicata Squash and Hearty Greens Salad
Barking Frog Restaurant/WOODINVILLE Bobby Moore SERVES 6 FOR THE SQUASH • 2 delicata squash • 1/2 cup white wine • Salt • Pepper • Parchment paper FOR THE DRESSING • 1 head of roasted garlic (about 1/3 cup) • 1/2 cup water • 1/4 cup canola oil • 2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar • 1 tablespoon lemon juice • Salt and pepper to taste Kitchen & Market’s roasted butternut squash soup satisfies.
Washington Recipes
Ways to Squash Winter’s Chill Roasted Butternut Squash Soup Kitchen & Market/SEATTLE Stephanie King SERVES 6 TO 8 • 1 butternut squash (about 3 pounds) • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 2 carrots • 1 onion • 4 garlic cloves • 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated • 2 quarts water • 1 tablespoon salt • Pinch of ground pepper • 2 tablespoons fresh sage, chopped • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped • (Optional) sour cream and toasted pepitas PREP Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Cut butternut squash in half lengthwise, and scoop out seeds. Roast on a sheet pan (flesh side up) for 30 minutes, or until the flesh is tender when pierced with
30 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
a knife and the top is browned. Allow to cool until you’re able to comfortably touch the squash. Remove and discard peel (this is easiest done with the squash still warm). You should have about 2 pounds of roasted squash remaining. Peel and chop carrots and onion into 1-inch pieces. Smash the garlic cloves with the side of a knife. Peel and grate ginger. Lightly chop sage and thyme. FOR THE SOUP In a pot large enough to hold three quarts of soup, heat the olive oil on medium heat. Add the carrots, onions, garlic and ginger, and gently cook until they are softening. Add the roasted squash pulp, water, salt, pepper and herbs. Simmer for 30 minutes. Blend in batches to a smooth consistency. (An immersion blender is ideal, however, an electric hand mixer or blender could be used.) Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as necessary. Optional: Garnish with a swirl of sour cream and some toasted pepitas.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
FOR THE SALAD • 3/4 cup farro, cooked and cooled • 1/3 cup Cougar Gold cheese, crumbled • 1/3 cup dried craisins • 1 Asian pear, julienned • 11/2 pounds winter greens chiffonade (finely cut) • Aged balsamic vinegar to drizzle • Salt and pepper to taste Peel squash, skipping every 1/2 inch so as to leave on some skin. Cut squash into 1½-inch-thick rings. Remove the seeds. Place squash rings on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Heat oven to 350 degrees and roast squash for 12 minutes, until it’s cooked through, but still firm. Leave out on a baking sheet pan until ready to serve, to keep squash warm. FOR THE DRESSING Simmer garlic in the water, and pour into a blender with vinegar and lemon juice. Blend on high for 15 seconds, and then slowly drizzle in canola oil for dressing to emulsify. Season to taste. Pour into a sauce pan on very low heat to keep the dressing hot. In a slightly hot, heat-safe mixing bowl, combine the farro and winter greens with warm dressing. Over a very low heat source, toss until greens become slightly wilted. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place squash on each plate, and cascade greens on top of squash and across the plate. Top with the remaining salad components and serve immediately.
B A I N B R I D G E I S L A N D , WA
Boutiques, berries, beers, beaches, books, boats, bivalves, birds, backpacking, and of course, B+B’s.
Stay a while
HE NEXT S T B
AY
HE NEXT S T B
AY
W
•
THE
RE’S A L
W
I S L A N D , WA
AY
ri
d
VISITBAINBRIDGEISLAND.ORG Sign up for our monthly newsletter and special offers. RE’S A L
d
bainb
THE
d
ri
•
•
ri
bainb
T
I S L A N D , WA
bainb
•
OA
ge
•
T
I S L A N D , WA
T
OA
ge
OA
ge
HE NEXT S T B
TH ER E ’ S AL WAYS TH E N E X T B OAT.
•
THE
RE’S A L
W
home farm to+ table design
Make Art, Not War
From military base to state park, Fort Worden to be deployed as public arts and culture incubator written by Melissa Dalton IN THE SUMMER of 1903, a spate of construction began at Fort Worden, a military base in the coastal town of Port Townsend. The fort was part of the “Triangle of Fire,” a trio of military fortifications set to defend the Puget Sound. An early build was the Quartermaster’s Storehouse, or Building 305, a capacious 16,220-square-foot structure that was 195-feet-long with three floors, a thick stone foundation, white siding and classic gabled roof. It served as the primary storage and workshop for the fort’s continued construction, eventually totaling more than 600 buildings. After fifty-one years of military service, Fort Worden closed, and by 1973, ownership shifted to Washington State Parks. As a state park, Fort Worden is unusual, encompassing 432 acres, two miles of shoreline, two campgrounds and more than seventy surviving buildings offering accommodations, including Victorian-style officers’ housing and former barracks. In addition to earning National Historic
Landmark status, it has a conference center and in 1981, the site was even used in the film An Officer and A Gentleman. Over time, buildings were leased to nonprofit partners for classes, workshops and performances. In 1982, the Port Townsend Marine Science Center established an aquarium on a pier. After a 2008 overhaul that required the removal of 3,000 gallons of paint and stacks of pianos and radiators, the Port Townsend School of Woodworking set up shop in the concrete Powerhouse building. Fort Worden became a city landmark, destination and more. “It’s part and parcel of the fabric of the Port Townsend community,” said Dave Robison, founding executive director of the Fort Worden Public Development Authority (PDA), a management partner with Washington State Parks. Fort Worden also faced persistent budget constraints. Many of the historic buildings remained
Fort Worden has more than two miles of beachfront and high bluffs with views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and 100-year-old buildings converted into an art and education center. (photo: Arthur Ross)
32
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Photos: Arthur Ross
home + design
Worn materials tell the story of Building 305, the first building constructed at Fort Worden, in 1905, to be the Quartermasters’ Warehouse that oversaw the construction of more than 600 additional buildings.
underused, acting as ad-hoc storage and suffering from deferred maintenance. In 2008, a community planning process led to a new vision of the fort: as a Lifelong Learning Center (LLLC). “The goal there is to attract people from around the world to come and have an immersive experience at Fort Warden and to engage with other like-minded people—people of all ages, incomes and abilities— in art and cultural activities,” said Robison. The Fort Worden PDA was created to enact the vision of the LLLC and create sustainable funding. “It would’ve been easy just to go and look at which buildings were in need of the most money, but I didn’t 34 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
want to do that,” said Robison. “Program development had to go hand in hand with the capital improvement plan.” Seattle-based Signal Architecture was hired to guide the design of the ninety-acre LLLC campus. “It was a pretty big community engagement process,” said architect Mark Johnson. The project included working with more than fourteen partners, ranging from yoga studios to the Marine Science Center, to two colleges and a poetry press. “All to figure out what the common needs were and create a place that could move into the future.” Out of this came the idea for Maker’s Square, a creative district that will occupy a cluster of ten buildings on the west side.
home + design
“When it comes to adaptive reuse, you can’t just model it in 3D, and say, ‘We’re gonna edit and modify it this way,’ and capture the character. You have to absorb some of the textures and light qualities, the smells and the air.” — Joseph Sadoski, Signal Architecture architect They’d been used for storage for so long that one had the nickname “Porcelain Palace” for its stockpile of bathroom fixtures, but the renewed buildings will reveal a whole new aspect of the fort to The architecture of Building 305 the public. “People know the parade ground, the creates a dialogue with history— not concealed, but celebrated and beach, the campgrounds, maybe the barracks stitched into the new, to honestly tell buildings,” said architect Joseph Sadoski. “But this its story while allowing it to evolve. was a zone that wasn’t super well-known.” The reinvention of Building 305 from dusty storage to dedicated makers’ spaces is the anchor of the new district. Now, the first floor has classrooms, banded by a wide gallery corridor that connects either floors and taking the life out, we let them be stained and marked end of the building, each of which hosts double-height spac- to invite more stains and marks, because the floor in an art stues that can be public-facing galleries or art studios. Remov- dio has to be the least precious thing.” Existing materials were ing sections of the attic floor brought in more light, revealing salvaged and reused wherever possible, such as milling 200-yearthe structure, and accommodating large-scale art pieces. The old Douglas fir joists into new stairs, and repurposing beadboard basement, once a dark corridor dampened by stone founda- to cover walls and ceilings. tion walls, now hosts recording studios for an independent The renovation also delivered a seismic retrofit and futureradio station. The attic was cleared of bats to make way for ready energy systems, earning a LEED silver certification. The workshop spaces. team restored the exterior façade, down to its white and green “When it comes to adaptive reuse, you can’t just model it in color scheme. The only exterior addition is a loading dock 3D, and say, ‘We’re gonna edit and modify it this way,’ and cap- turned covered porch that allows programming to spill outside, ture the character,” said Sadoski. “You have to absorb some of a must in the pandemic era. the textures and light qualities, the smells and the air.” Thus, the It only seems fitting that the newest era of Fort Worden’s life firm’s approach brought those intangible qualities to the fore- starts with Building 305. “It was one of the first buildings built front, while still making way for new, flexible uses. on campus, and the fort grew up and around that building,” said “The floor became this really big storyteller in the building,” Robison. “A rich, cultural and artistic neighborhood at the fort,” said Johnson. “Rather than sanding the one-inch-thick maple he said, is now the centerpiece that heralds its future. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 35
Photos: The Backcountry Hut Company
home + design
With a few friends and a few hours, Backcountry Hut Company’s System 00 comes to life as a sleeping bunk or studio for meditation, yoga or art studio. The kit for the 10-by-10-foot A-frame is $56,495.
DIY: Build a Pre-Fab A-Frame WHEN AARON BUSH bought a dilapidated farm on Shaw Island, the roof on the little house was caved in, with no electricity or utilities on site. “There were just no habitable structures on the property,” said Bush, a Seattle-based architect. “We’re a family of five and we just wanted to be able to spend some time there comfortably.” To accomplish that, the family built an off-grid “glamp ground … like a campground, but nicer,” said Bush, and it’s complete with a travel trailer, bathhouse, and two mini A-frames for sleeping. Bush bought his A-frames as prefab, flat-packed kits from the Vancouver, B.C.-based Backcountry Hut Company. Called “System 00,” the structure measures 10 feet by 10 feet at the base, with a roof that scales 16 feet high. “The intention is that we have a very highly coordinated, architecturally-designed kit of parts that a client is empowered to assemble themselves,” said Wilson Edgar, cofounder and principal of BHC. Parts include, but aren’t limited to, framing, all insulated panels and exterior membrane, as well as the Loewen window and door package, and custom corrugated metal roof, which modernize the iconic shape. “We wanted to create beautiful structures for these gorgeous settings, but have them be quiet in nature, and at the same time, aesthetically pleasing,” said Edgar. The following steps outline the A-frame assemblage process. Basic construction knowledge and tools will be needed, and the delivery site must be accessible by truck, barge or helicopter. 36
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
PREP THE FOUNDATION Consult with an engineer to ensure the foundation system suits the site and the kit requirements. A variety of systems can be used, including piles or piers, which is what Aaron Bush installed, or a standard concrete pad. Regarding a building permit, check what is needed for your area. ASSEMBLE FRIENDS The kit arrives in custom palleted packages that are labeled and numbered, and can reasonably be assembled in around a week. Enlist four or five people to help, as the glulam A-frame and large panes of glass need some muscle to maneuver. BUILD In brief, erect the frame and insulated panels. Add building wrap, install the windows and door, as well as the metal roof, and flashing details. Then move to the back of the structure to attach cedar cladding to the rear. The kit comes with detailed assembly instructions. ENJOY Interiors can be finished as desired, although Bush left his as-built. “The ceiling is a wood that’s very beautiful,” said Bush, who likes the quiet of the A-frame interior and added a wood-burning stove for extra coziness. “They’re small, but with the high ceiling and wall of windows, they feel very light and open,” said Bush.
home + design
MODERN FIREPITS Fan the flames of trending design in your backyard and beyond
The Portland, Oregon-based company Radiant Firepits has three designs. The original is the Bento, which was created out of a need for a temporary firepit on a camping trip to Lost Lake. To assemble, there’s no hardware—the metal panels fit neatly together. Next came the Chimenea, a modern approach to a classic silhouette, and originally designed for a backyard barbecue. Last is the Fire Nest (pictured), which takes the shape of a geodesic orb that’s had the top cut off, and is built so the fire light shines through the joints. Every firepit will patina from shiny silver to rich red, another aspect of the artistry. www.radiantfirepits.com The model from Hotspot Firepits in Twisp is more than just a standard firepit. Available in five sizes, from the 24-inch Chico to the 48-inch Jefe, the elevated fire bowl can be outfitted with an assortment of accessories for open fire cooking. www.hotspotfirepits.com
System 00, Backcountry Hut Company’s smallest and most streamlined option, 10-by-10-feet at the base, distills the iconic A-frame aesthetic down to its purest essentials embracing Pacific Northwest and modernist sensibilities.
The triangular design of the Pyramid Firepit simplifies the assemblage, and makes it portable. The three angled sides, composed of hot-rolled steel, slot together and the entire thing weighs about 80 pounds. It burns wood or gas, so bring it to the beach or mountain, or add it to a small backyard patio. www.pyramidfirepits.com
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
37
mind + body
“The fan base here is incredible. They’re positive and enthusiastic. I couldn’t ask for anything more.” — Chris Driedger, Seattle Kraken goaltender
38
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
mind + body
Pluck and a Puck
Determination and perseverance pay off in a dauntless path to becoming Kraken goalie
Christopher Mast/NHL via Getty Images
written by Jonathan Shipley “I’M A KID from Winnipeg. It’s winter eight months of the year. What else am I going to do?” So begins the journey of Chris Driedger—from a kid playing with his pals during Winnipeg winters to being the goaltender for the Seattle Kraken during their inaugural season in the National Hockey League. “In the driveway, I’d be the goaltender and my buddies would shoot at me every day.” Every day since, Driedger’s life has been on the ice and between the pipes. “Seeing Patrick Roy win the Stanley Cup with the Avalanche in 2001 cemented in me wanting to be a goaltender.” And so Driedger did what competitive kids do when they want to achieve their goals and make dreams come true: he worked hard at what he loved doing. “There was some interest in me by the Western Hockey League when I was 15. It was then that I started getting my first taste that maybe I should take this seriously.” It’s been an arduous path for Driedger to get to Kraken’s Climate Pledge Arena. It takes determination and skill to make it to the NHL, but also perseverance. His career began in earnest in, of all places, Kennewick, not quite the hockey nirvana of his hometown seventy miles north of the North Dakota-Minnesota border with Canada. Playing for the Tri-City Americans in 2010, he was soon traded to the Calgary Hitmen, a leading junior ice hockey team. He played well. He played well enough to be drafted in the third round by the Ottawa Senators in the 2012 NHL draft. Signed to the Senators in 2014, he made his NHL debut with Ottawa in 2015, entering a game against the New
York Rangers. It was life affirming, but it wasn’t quite enough. He wanted to start a game, not just enter one. He wanted to play and play consistently. It’d take time. He was released after five seasons with the Senators. He didn’t start one game. He’d play out of the NHL for a while, suiting up for teams like the Wichita Thunder, the Belleville Senators, the Brampton Beast, the Springfield Thunderbirds, the Manchester Monarchs. Finally, the Florida Panthers gave him another shot at the NHL. He started his first game with them on November 30, 2019. “My buddies flew out to see me. My aunt flew out. My grandma flew down to see me. It is my greatest hockey memory.” He recorded a 27-save, 3-0 shutout win. Last summer the Seattle Kraken selected him in the 2021 NHL Expansion Draft. He signed a three-year, $10.5 million contract. “It’s a huge milestone,” he said. “It’s a huge leap of faith.” Putting on the Kraken pads is an experience, he said. “We’re a part of history, and it’s great to be part of something new. We’re eager to bring something special here.” The feeling seems mutual in his new home away from home, Seattle. “The fan base here is incredible,” said Driedger. “They’re positive and enthusiastic. I couldn’t ask for anything more.” Eating around his new city with his girlfriend has been as fun and adventurous as the outdoor recreation. But delighting in the city’s attributes and putting on the skates and helmet to roaring fans isn’t his focus. “The goal here is to win,” said Driedger. That he plans on doing—making sure no goals get by him at the Kraken net.
Chris Driedge
Seattle Kraken Goalkeeper Age: 27 Born: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Residence: Winnipeg, Seattle
WORKOUT “It depends on our schedule. We have workouts in the gym before practice. It ramps us up for practice on the ice. Practices are about an hour or so.”
NUTRITION “I do my best to eat healthy, making sure I put the right things in my body. For breakfast, I’ll have half an avocado, some smoked salmon, on toast. Good fats. For lunch, the team puts out a healthy meal. The nutritionist helps with that. For dinner, I do my best to eat healthy. Maybe a steak, or sushi, or some chicken and vegetables. STAY AWAY FROM FAST FOOD! I do like a glass of wine.”
INSPIRATIONS “Patrick Roy. Watching him play inspired me growing up. Goalie Carey Price. Him, too. I got to play against him and it was really special.”
AT LEFT Seattle Kraken goaltender Chris Driedger defends against the Edmonton Oilers at Climate Pledge Arena in Seattle in December.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 39
artist in residence
CALL TO ARTISTS Schack Art Center in Everett has issued a call to women artists under age 40 for “40 Under 40,” a juried exhibition. Recognizing the historic inequities in representation for women artists, Carol Thomas, advancement development director at the Schack, cited that many galleries and museums routinely show 10 percent or fewer women artists. A date has not yet been set for the “40 Under 40” exhibition, to be held at Schack Art Center and online. Apply to the curated exhibition at www.schack.org/ calls-to-artists before April 29.
40
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
artist in residence
Revocation, Reimaginings and Resistance Four women artists to watch push new perspectives on identity, community and beauty
Courtesy of Gretchen Leggitt
written by Ellen Hiatt
FOUR WOMEN ARTISTS from across the state are emerging as talents with powerful voices, evoking emotion through works in a range of mediums and shaping the character and vitality of their communities. Two Seattle artists are putting a feminine edge to traditionally masculine materials— metal and wood. Leah Gerrard took her inspiration from her work in architectural metals to weave copper and steel as though she’s creating cloth. Tyna Ontko begins with a chainsaw to create refined works out of yellow cedar, staged in thought-provoking scenes with found objects. Bellingham’s Gretchen Leggitt is hoisted up the sides of multi-story buildings, breaking out beyond the traditional boundaries of gallery walls to transform public spaces and, in turn, lives. Spokane artist Emma Noyes, a pen and ink artist of Scandinavian and Native American descent, explores concepts of motherhood and mixed cultural identities. The Pacific Northwest is fertile ground for artistic inspiration, and women artists such as these are creating conversationstarting work around the issues of our time. AT LEFT The muralist Gretchen Leggitt of Bellingham is also the creator of Hydrascape stickers that wrap around water bottles and can be used on skis, boards and cars.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
41
artist in residence
Leah Gerrard The organic, twisting and turning forms of Leah Gerrard’s work stand in contrast to the perpendicular and angular lines of the structures that house them. Yet in their origin, her sculptures are not so far from a building. Made of steel, copper wire and found objects, they are woven with hard materials to reveal what appears to be flowing fabric. She was inspired by fiber arts, the architectural metalwork of her earlier years, and the connection between landscape and building. “I see it as an organic contrast … an organic feeling in a more structured environment,” said Gerrard. Like the gardens that her father, a landscape architect, created in her youth, her pieces are meant to be experienced as a textural and visual contrast to the larger environment. Seattle’s 4Culture gallery exhibition of her work in 2019 is her best to date, she says. “That was the show I was probably proudest of so far and the one that captured what I was trying to say.” In describing it, Gerrard refers to the Federico Fellini film Amarcord, which means “nostalgic revocation.”
ABOVE Vashon’s Leah Gerrard is influenced by Seattle’s industrial districts and the forests of Washington. AT RIGHT Gerrard’s work reflects that flow, growth and tension. She works toward encouraging the viewer to stop and breathe for a second or two.
42
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Photos: Courtesy of Leah Gerrard
www.leahgerrard.com
artist in residence
CREA8TORS TO WATCH The state has a trove of diverse, talented women artists. Here are eight to watch:
Photos: Courtesy of Gretchen Leggitt
Jite Agbro Seattle
Gretchen Leggitt’s murals have reinvigorated dozens of outdoor spaces including, at top, Puget Sound Energy’s Encogen electrical power plant in Bellingham, and the Capitol Hill building bearing the work entitled “Light.”
Gretchen Leggitt Flowing rivers and Salish Sea waves. Rocky crags and mountain peaks. Gretchen Leggitt paints the intricate lines of Mount Baker and Bellingham Bay, where she hikes, bikes, boards and kayaks. She melds those experiences to transform the once-dreary and drab exterior walls of the Bellingham’s buildings, including on the state’s largest outdoor mural, created on 22,000 square feet of Puget Sound Energy’s Encogen electrical power plant in Bellingham. Her first mural cemented her path. “Cars started slowing down and honking their horns. Quick cheers and interactions with the general public were really mind-blowing to me. I was used to art being made and appreciated just by a small niche of people. This was getting out of the confines of a gallery. Galleries are a place to showcase art and the streets are a place to change people’s daily lives.” Find her work “Light” on Capitol Hill at 17th and Olive. Leggitt included the image of a woman of color, her arms spread like wings, her gaze set on the future. “She stands as a symbol for the determination, grace and resiliency humans have shown over the past few years, creating an awe-inspiring beauty on the side of the building,” said Leggitt. On the mural, Leggitt included Amanda Gorman’s final line of her inauguration poem, “For there is always light. If only we’re brave enough to see it.” www.gretchenleggitt.com
An African American woman, Agbro explores the social constructs that infer power and belonging, revealing the physical and psychological methods of social posturing. Using mixed media, fabric, ink, beeswax, etc., her prints and collages are thought provoking. www.jiteagbroart.com
Colleen RJC Bratton Seattle Bratton’s work is diverse — from exploring faith and sanctuary with a site specific installation in a church, to her latest work exploring climate change via a curated color scheme of vivid and burning oranges and yellows. www.colleenrjcbratton.com
Emily Counts Seattle Seattle native Emily Counts draws on craft traditions for her ceramic and mixed media sculptures. Using simple colorful forms that are stacked, connected, and balanced, she incorporates electricity and interactive elements to explore corporeal connections. Her surrealistic and abstract sculptures have been exhibited across the United States, from San Francisco to New York. www.emilycounts.com
Erika Flak Everett A talented character design artist, Flak has created Funko characters and IOS App icons. Playful, colorful, and inventive, examining her character studies and cartoons is like looking at the world from inside a Pixar Short. www.erikaflak.com
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Emily Gherard Seattle Mesmerizing pieces from plaster and paper, cedar and staples, the limited tonal scale and off-balance compositions of Gherard’s are palpable with energy. Her focus is revealed through minute details and experimental forms. www.gherard.com
Hoa Hong Seattle Oil painter and graphic artist, Hong’s portraits celebrate diversity. From her large scale, Brooklyn, NY mural of Notorious B.I.G. to the introduction of Hip Hop Culture at Ballard’s Studios Six Yoga Studio, the hum of humanity’s cultural energy jumps off the walls. www.hoahongart.com
Jiemei Lin Pullman Chinese American with a feminist message, Lin’s work is shaped by her Chinese-activist grandfather who fought for gender equity and against thousands of years of social injustice. Her illustrations are deceptively simple, yet they hold complex layers of imagery and meaning. www.jiemeilin.com
Elizabeth Person Everett A creator of custom maps and informational art, Person focuses on the rich inspirations of the Pacific Northwest’s mountains and waterways. Precise and detailed pen drawings are met with the flowing pigments of watercolor. Person illustrated the children’s book, To Live on an Island. www.elizabethperson.com — Ellen Hiatt
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
43
Photos: Courtesy of Tyna Ontko
Tyna Ontko
Seattle’s Tyna Ontko uses traditional labor, craft and natural materials to make objects through an ecofeminist lens informed by research, spiritual practice, domestic labor, and queer perspective. She’s done residencies in New York and abroad.
44
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
“Vibrant matter arranged in some sort of séance.” Let this idea sit with you for a moment. It says so much about Tyna Ontko’s work. The phrase is hidden in the description of her “Ancient Grains” sculpture, inspired by an artist residency with the collective De Liceiras 18 in Porto, Portugal. In the exhibit recently shown at SOIL Gallery in Seattle, she uses wood and metal “selected not for their ability to withstand, but for their soft temperament.” Ontko works in locally sourced yellow cedar native to the Pacific Northwest, in a modern interpretation of folk art techniques, using chainsaw and power tools to accomplish a more refined and theatrical end. “I think that’s coming to a traditionally masculine craft with more of a feminine perspective … a feminine edge,” she says. She reinterprets everyday objects, a mortar and pestle, an anvil or a cowboy hat, and reimagines them through carved wood, hard steel, stones and sand. The daughter of a community theater actor, her fascination with set building comes into play, as she intuitively stages the objects and her carvings into a performance of their own, a stage set for the imagination to ponder the séance, the materials re-imagined in new life. www.tynaontko.com
artist in residence
Spokane’s Emma Noyes tells of her family’s tribal traditions, finding new ways to depict characters, emphasizing coyote’s wife, mole woman while also drawing inspiration from her Danish heritage.
Courtesy of Emma Noyes
Emma Noyes Emma Noyes has lightheartedly dubbed her art style as “Scandinative.” Combining the imagery of her heritage as both member of the Sinixt band of Confederated Tribes of Colville and as a Dane “is really an opportunity to feel whole, to shine light on all aspects of self.” Line drawings of the Scandinavian Dala horse meet Plateau tribal imagery. Themes of the trickster coyote and other characters from indigenous stories of the Plateau tribes are a common theme in her work, as is motherhood. Her art is influenced by her Danish heritage, including her grandmother sharing the ancient Scandinavian runic alphabet with her when she was young. Preconceptions of how indigenous art should look sometimes have nothing to do with her experience. When commissioned to create based on her native identity, she’s been asked to include a teepee, or “make it more Native,” she said. “It’s such a strange experience, especially when, from my perspective, it’s very Native,” she said. The symbolism of the Coast Salish peoples or of the indigenous of the American Plains is a style more familiar to Americans, she added. “What’s at the core of my work is an act of resistance— making my contribution to push the tide to more representation, and more visual material existence.” www.instagram.com/expertink
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
45
STARTUP 48 WHAT’S GOING UP 50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 52 MY WORKSPACE 54
pg. 54 Hana Yohannes founded Shikorina Pastries in Seattle to share her talent, love and sustainable practices.
Alexandra Knight Photography
GAME CHANGER 56
MEDICINE.WSU.EDU |
WE ARE training in nearly 200 hospitals and clinics in every corner of the state
@WSUMedicine
startup
Origin Story
Crowd Cow thrives with farm-to-table standards for online meat, seafood sales written by Dameon Pesanti
Photos: Crowd Cow
CROWD COW started with a question: where is my meat coming from? Producers across the food industry, be they breweries, coffee companies or chocolatiers have embraced a narrative-cum-marketing approach to their sales tactics. Grocery store shelves are stocked with products featuring a photo of a smiling farmer and a short story tracing their journeys from seedlings to the foil-wrapped treat in your hand. But that marketing strategy often ends at the meat counter. There consumers are usually met with little more than something along the lines of “Product of USA.”
48
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
A5 Wagyu beef, intensely marbled and known for its exquisite taste, texture and tenderness, lands at your door using Crowd Cow’s ethical, sustainable methods.
startup
That didn’t sit well with Joe Heitzeberg and Ethan Lowry the In March 2020, the Covid-19 pandemic began unleashing one founders of Seattle-based Crowd Cow, an online service that business-disrupting shockwave after another around the globe. sells products from small fishers, farmers and producers who As countless organizations suffered, Crowd Cow’s business raise high quality meats and seafood to consumers who value exploded. ethical animal husbandry, environmental sustainability and preWhen the pandemic’s weight bore down on the service inmium foods. dustry, diners scurried out of restaurants and into their kitchens “Eating should include a connection to where the food comes and sought to evoke the flavors of farm-to-table restaurants. For from,” said Heitzeberg, CEO of Crowd Cow. “I want to know those customers, Crowd Cow was the solution when the grocery who raised it, I want a personal connection to my food, and I store fell short. want transparency about how the animal was raised and why it Last summer, when meat shortages were a nightmare for was done that way.” businesses across America, Crowd Cow That expectation has rocketed thrived. Crowd Cow to a $50 million a year “We were like, ‘What meat shortage?,’” business since its founding in 2015. Heitzeberg said. “For us, the question was Crowd Cow doesn’t require a subhow do we grow fast. If we can take that scription to purchase, but the comslack up, it’s good for us and it’s good for pany boasts 40,000 members who rethe farmers.” ceive discounts and access to seasonal From 2019 to 2020, the business’s revand limited-quantity products. enues grew from about $12 million a year Before starting Crowd Cow, neither to $40 million a year. At that rate, the Heitzeberg nor Lowry had experience challenge became securing operational — Joe Heitzeberg, Crowd Cow in food or logistics. They were tech facilities, hiring processing and packagco-founder and CEO guys, who enjoyed eating well and valing staff and ensuring the shippers could ued sustainability. deliver quickly. “We had friends buying meat from a farm on Whidbey Island, Crowd Cow’s growth has always been in bursts, and Heitzeand he would brag about how awesome the meat was and that berg expects that to continue that way. To meet demand, the he was buying it from a fourth-generation farmer,” Heitzeberg company plans to expand its producer network and add convesaid. “And we thought not only would it be fun to not only order nience foods while preserving the quality of core products. a literal piece of the cow, but to meet the farmer as well.” As a moniker, Crowd Cow made perfect sense in the early days when they were selling one cow at a time in 10-pound increments and only after fifty customers placed an order. After about six months it was clear the partners were onto something, but Heitzeberg and Lowry progressed with caution. They spent a year educating themselves about their new industry before opening up to investors. As soon as they did, angel investors, wealthy friends and investment firms, including Liquid 2 Ventures, backed by NFL Hall of Famer Joe Montana, quickly seized on the opportunity. Today, the name reflects only a fraction of what’s available. Crowd Cow sells everything from Shenandoah Valley chicken thighs and Missouri raised ground beef to fair-trade jumbo, wild Mexican blue shrimp and Japanese Wagyu beef to customers across the continental U.S. Unlike other subscription-box services, Crowd Cow emphasizes a personal touch. Shoppers can fully customize every order and even shop farms individually. Deliveries often include a handwritten note of gratitude from Crowd Cow or an emailed link to a “thank you” video from the farmers. They also take their commitments to sustainability seriously. Everything is shipped in recyclable packing and compostable insulation—no Styrofoam. The seafood is sustainably wild caught or sustainably raised, Heitzeberg said. Crowd Cow offsets all Crowd Cow co-founders Joe Heitzeberg, left, and Ethan Lowry. emissions from the birth of the animal to delivery to your door.
“Eating should include a connection to where the food comes from.”
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 49
What’s Going Up
On the Rise
Cross-laminted timber buildings emerge around Washington
Lakeview Office Building in Kirkland is the first large office building in the city built with CLT.
written by Kathy Arrenas
Adam Hunter/LMN Architects
CROSS-LAMINATED timber is made by laying kiln-dried timber in alternating directions, bonding and pressing them to form a product that is as strong as concrete, seismically sound, resistant to fire and environmentally preferable over concrete and steel. Over the past few years, as building codes have been updated, buildings constructed with CLT have been popping up everywhere. Here are a few of our favorites in Washington. The eight-story Heartwood Apartments in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood may be the tallest CLT building and is expected to be completed by early 2023. The 46,000-square-foot Lakeview Office Building in Kirkland is the first large office building in the city built with CLT. Using wood from Pacific Northwest forests, CLT buildings are considered to be carbon-sequestering structures because they replace carbon emitting materials such as concrete. A prospective CLT project by Forterra NW in Tukwila hopes to bring together the environmental benefits of CLT and modular construction. Wadajir, a mixed use housing and retail building, will offer Tukwila’s Somali community and others beautiful homes priced to be affordable, based on area median income.
50
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Experience
winter fun
Come recharge in beautiful Central Oregon! Explore the great outdoors, relax and rejuvenate at Sage Springs Spa, enjoy dinner with a view, or just cozy up by the fire in your room. The new indoor Cove Aquatic Center is open year-round and is the perfect place to unwind after an action-packed day. Winter fun at Sunriver Resort is full of endless possibilities!
VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE INFORMATION AT SUNRIVERRESORT.COM
what i’m working on
Assessing the State of Hate
Gonzaga institute analyzes trends and solutions in the increasing volume of hate crimes in the United States
Kristine Hoover is the director of the Gonzaga Institute for Hate Studies.
written by Keith Moore
AS AMERICANS are reminded in the news every day, bigotry and hate crimes are on the rise in our neighborhoods and cities. We wanted to have a closer look at how we make sense of this malicious phenomenon and caught up with Kristine Hoover, director of the Gonzaga Institute for Hate Studies.. The numbers tell the story. Tell us about the mission of the Gonzaga Center for the Study of Hate. The mission of the Gonzaga Center for the Study of Hate is to advance the academic field of Hate Studies, promoting the sharing of interdisciplinary ideas and research relating to the study of what hate is, where it comes from, and how to counter it. We are concerned about the range from individual to systemic issues that begin with what may seem to be innocuous attitudes and can lead in extreme cases to genocide. What forms of hate are the most prevalent today? According to the FBI, Anti-Black or African-American biases were by far the most commonly reported bases of hate crimes in 2020, rising 45% to 2,871 incidents from the previous year. During the same time period, Anti-Asian hate increased by 73% while Anti-Jewish and Anti-Gay hate decreased. Most hate crimes occurred in the form of intimidation, destruction of property, or simple assault, either at a person’s home or on the street or sidewalk. Most hate crimes are perpetrated by people who are white. Are there more hidden areas of society where hate lurks? Recognizing that hate crimes are underreported, we should also 52 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
be aware of hate incidents. Hate incidents (such as slurs yelled from a car window, social media posts, or displaying hate materials) may not rise to the level of a hate crime, however, we may not be sensitive to the harm created or be aware of the relationship to hate crimes. Hate incidents include bias attitudes such as stereotyping and bias acts such as bullying and ridiculing. How does what we see and hear today in the United States compare historically? There is growing concern about threats from violent extremist groups, particularly white supremacists and anti-government activists, so much so that the U.S. Justice Department announced a new domestic counterterrorism unit in the first weeks of 2022. Although hate groups have been spread throughout the United States, the Southern Poverty Law Center has identified some shifts related to the highest numbers of hate groups per capita over the past 20 years. In 2020, Nebraska, Tennessee, New Hampshire, Virginia, and South Carolina were identified as having some of the highest levels of per capita hate groups in addition to Montana, while previously the hate groups were more consolidated by this measure in the southeast and Inland Northwest. This is in the context of the highest level of hate crime
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
nationally since 2008, as reported by the FBI in their 2020 report. Are we at a tipping point in terms of intolerance in the U.S.? As a civil society, we cannot be complacent about crime and more specifically we cannot tolerate hate crimes (e.g. murder, arson, or vandalism with an added element of bias). Because of the devastating impact hate crimes have on families and communities, hate crimes are the highest priority of the FBI’s civil rights program. But what about hate speech? In the U.S., hate speech is not a crime, however there are limits that define what can and cannot be tolerated. Hate speech can only be criminalized in the U.S. when it directly incites imminent criminal activity or consists of specific threats of violence targeted against a person or group. While there is increasing tension between hate speech and free speech, we should be clear that tolerating hate speech and valuing free speech is not synonymous with agreeing to the content of a hateful message. Nadine Strossen, former president of the American Civil Liberties Union, has repeatedly encouraged us to oppose hate speech with counterspeech and not censorship. Our Constitution protects free speech, which compels us to tolerate views, beliefs, and behaviors that differ from our own—within limits.
my workspace
Shikorina Pastries
A founder who embraces local and sustainable written by Kenneth Braxton
Kae-Lin Wang
Hana Yohannes started Shikorina Pastries in Seattle during the pandemic in 2020. The girl who grew up making pastries eventually took it to the next level in artistry and sustainability. It wasn’t until 2019 that she developed professional baking skills as part of the Pastry Project’s first cohort, which is a program that brings people with barriers into the pastry industry.
54
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
After entering the pastry industry, she wasn’t happy with some of the practices she saw. There was too much waste with food and single-use items. Further, many businesses skipped opportunities to support local businesses and use quality ingredients. “As an organic bakery, I put a lot of thought into the ingredients I use and where they’re sourced from,” she said. “We work with local businesses such as Theo Chocolate, India Tree, and Glory Bee. Customers shouldn’t have to worry about what’s in their food.”
Sustainability is one of Shikorina Pastries’ biggest priorities. The bakery has a zero-waste business, meaning they make minimal garbage. “Our only garbage consists of the occasional food packaging we get, although most of our distributors only use recyclable and compostable packaging,” she said. “Almost everything we provide to our customers is compostable and everything else is reusable or recyclable. … We prioritize local ingredients to keep carbon emissions down, use eco-friendly cleaning products that don’t create plastic waste, and the list goes on and on. Sustainability will always come before time and costs savings for us.”
Syndey Henrikson
Her customers are central to her happiness, she said. “I love the community I’m part of and that I’m able to help cultivate it,” she said. “There are those days where I feel like I’m drowning in work and overwhelmed with the responsibilities of being a business owner but my wonderful customers remind me why I love what I do.”
Syndey Henrikson
Yohannes’ favorite item is their chocolate chunk with sea salt cookie. “It’s the perfect chocolate chunk cookie that I’ve perfected based on one of the recipes I learned at the Pastry Project,” she said.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
55
Trillium Employment Services
game changer
Labor of Love
Trillium solves labor shortages while addressing neurodiversity in the workforce written by Dameon Pesanti
CHRISTINA FRYE has made a career of encouraging business leaders to reimagine the nature of employment. As program director for Trillium Employment Services, a nonprofit committed to integrating people with intellectual disabilities into the workforce, Frye invites employers to share their preconceptions, then after listening politely, opens their minds to a world of new possibilities by integrating supported employees into their workforce. “Sometimes that initial conversation is tough. We’re not asking people to do what’s easy—change is hard,” she said. “But these days, if you don’t have a diversity liaison or team, you’re a decade behind, and that’s a selling point for us. The talent pool we serve is very untapped.” Trillium employs about 100 people and currently serves about 600 clients throughout its offices in King, Clark, Yakima, Pierce and Kitsap counties. A pioneering organization, Trillium began assisting Washingtonians with developmental disabilities to find meaningful work in 1983. It began as a demonstration project at the University of Oregon where a local defibrillator manufacturer employed developmentally disabled assemblers. As word of the demonstration spread, national legislation for supported employment soon followed. Thus began a steady march away from sheltered employment—self-contained worksites with exclusively disabled workers—toward traditional employment with community businesses. Today, Trillium is one of many supported employment agencies around the state. They don’t see themselves in 56
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
A worker placed through Trillium Employment Services, which supports organizations’ culture and diversity and inclusion goals.
competition, rather working in collaboration toward the same mission. Despite the general public’s growing understanding of neurodiversity, Frye said misconceptions remain prevalent. The idea that their clients are best suited to work in food, janitorial or retail can be tough to shake. “We fight misconceptions that our clients can’t be safe in warehousing and manufacturing or that they can’t be successful in an office setting,” she said. When the Covid-19 pandemic began and stay-at-home orders went into effect, employees with disabilities were often the first to lose their jobs. The isolation was taxing on everyone, but for the developmentally disabled, a group that in the best of times frequently experiences isolation and loneliness, the national effort to flatten the curve was especially hard. “We made every effort to find creative ways to stay in touch,” Frye said. “We’d drop things off on their porches—fun activities or games where we could take turns—just ways to say we’re still here and we still care.” As the economy improves and labor shortages grow, Trillium’s clients are getting back to work. Many employers are meeting with Trillium staff and thinking about hiring beyond a “help wanted” ad. The new year brings with it a new organization-wide goal of having their clients work an average of thirteen or more hours a week. Trillium anticipates placing clients at a rate that’s meets or exceeds pre-pandemic levels, too.
Cacao KNOW-HOW Take decadence to new heights and spoil yourself on adventures throughout Washington’s artisan, inventive and storied chocolate regions written by Danielle Centoni FOR CHOCOLATE LOVERS, few things are better than having an entire box of chocolates all to yourself, each tiny, pleated paper cup holding a sweet surprise in the palm of your hand. But if you think about it, the entire state is like a box of chocolates, rich with a varied assortment of chocolatiers putting their own stamp on the decadent world of confections. We’ve got iconic shops offering blasts from the past, bean-to-bar makers going right to the source, and modern artists with limitless imaginations. You can taste your way through it all with a DIY chocolate crawl through the most chocolate-rich regions in the state. Some makers even offer tours and classes. Best of all, there’s always plenty to do nearby so you can turn your chocolate excursions into an entire day, or even weekend, of fun.
58 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
PLAN IT ALMOND ROCA
110 E. 26th St. Tacoma 800-426-8400 www.brown-haley.com
JOHNSON CANDY COMPANY
924 MLK Jr. Way Tacoma 253-272-8504 www.johnsoncandyco.com
GOSANKO CHOCOLATE FACTORY 116 A Street SE Auburn 253-333-7567 www.gosanko chocolate.com
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Amy’s Decadent Chocolates handcrafts edible gems with locally grown apples, freshly roasted nuts and other wholesome ingredients. Brown & Haley in Tacoma still innovates beyond its world-famous Almond Roca. Take treats to Owen Beach at Point Defiance Park and rent a kayak to work it off. (photos, clockwise from left: Amy’s Decadent Chocolates, Lisa Barker/Travel Tacoma, Travel Tacoma)
Old-School
COOL IN SOUTH SOUND The South Sound area is home to two of the state’s most venerable chocolate makers, all within a short drive of each other. Start in Tacoma, where the Brown & Haley factory has been making Mountain Bars and world-famous Almond Roca for more than a century. Although tours are no longer offered, you can still get familiar with the history through a short video at the factory store, and load up on factory seconds, which come in 7- to 12-ounce bags and start at just $1.99. Johnson Candy Company, another old-timey classic, is just two miles away. In business since 1925, this family-owned enterprise started out as a creamery but now aims its cacao know-how on boxes filled with fudge, caramels, nut clusters and creamy soft centers. The seafoam (chocolate-covered honeycomb toffee) is a standout, as are the hand-dipped ice cream bars. There are even vegan and sugar-free chocolates, too. While you’re in the area, check out maritime exhibits at the nearby Foss Waterway Seaport, walk around the Point Ruston waterfront and poke around the shops and restaurants while soaking up serene Puget Sound views, or take a hike around Point Defiance, which even has a zoo and aquarium, or rent kayaks at Owen Beach. A short jaunt north to Auburn and you’ll find the factory headquarters of Gosanko Chocolate, a
thirty-five-year-old, family-owned company known for its panoply of intricately molded chocolates in shapes such as roses and sand dollars (although its line of truffles and caramels are proving just as popular). At the factory, peek in a window and watch the packaging process and you envision the classic “I Love Lucy” episode of the speeding conveyor belt at the chocolate factory. Get samples, and buy treats—including vanilla-dipped dog bones for the special pup in your life. Head a few minutes farther north to Kent, and you can sip your chocolate fix at the Dilettante Mocha Cafe while loading up on ethereally creamy Ephemere truffles, a favorite of Julia Child’s. The signature velvety and light-as-air chocolates are made with caramelized butter and have been the signature confection since the company got its start in 1976. Forrest Gump, the eponymous hero of the 1994 movie famously said, “Life is like a box of chocolates,” and what’s life without a little road trip? Go west, chocolate pilgrim, over the Tacoma Narrows Bridge and head up to Amy’s Decadent Chocolates in Bremerton, a half-hour drive from Tacoma. This beloved local favorite specializes in nuts and chews, soft centers, and gourmet caramel apples. You can walk off the sugar high at the nearby Bremerton Boardwalk and duck into the Puget Sound Navy Museum to see what life is really like for sailors aboard nuclear submarines. Or, wander through Elandan Gardens on your way back to Tacoma. It’s home to thousand-year-old bonsai trees, unique sculptures and an eclectic gift shop. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
DILETTANTE MOCHA CAFE
514 Ramsay Way Kent 253-852-3555 www.dilettante.com
AMY’S DECADENT CHOCOLATES
2801 6th St. Bremerton 360-377-2252 www.amysdecadent chocolates.com
POINT DEFIANCE ZOO www.pdza.org
PUGET SOUND NAVY MUSEUM
www.pugetsoundnavy museum.org
ELANDAN GARDENS
www.elandangardens.com photos, from top: Dilettante Chocolates, Puget Sound Navy Museum, Elandan Gardens
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 59
TOURING THROUGH
Seattle
The state’s biggest city has the widest array of chocolate makers, from Belgian-inspired sweets to cutting edge Japanese makers to bean-to-bar chocolates with serious Pacific Northwest vibes. Best of all, here’s where you can really get up close and personal through several behind-the-scenes tours. Start your deep-dive into cocoa at Seattle Chocolate Company’s factory in Tukwila, where the fifty-minute guided tours aren’t just entertaining, they’re educational. You’ll taste a variety of chocolates, including signature flavors such as Cake Batter Truffle Bar or Moon Rocks (made with popping candy), see how the production machines churn out these delicious wonders. Delve into chocolate history and find out how the company comes up with new flavors. The cacao is all ethically sourced, and for its ultra-premium sister brand, Jcoco, it comes directly from small farmers who are paid fairly for single-origin beans used to make flavors such as Mango Plantain and Quinoa Sesame. This is taste-good, do-good chocolate—10 percent of profits go to organizations fighting food insecurity. From here, you’re a stone’s throw from Westfield Southcenter mall, where you can taste a Japanese take on chocolate at the Royce’ chocolate boutique. Hailing from Hokkaido, it’s famed for its silky-rich truffles called Nama, which take your palate on an adventure with flavors such as matcha and Islay whisky. For when you’ve returned home, elevate the guilty pleasure of coach-ready snacking with salty-crunchy chocolate-covered potato chips. For your second tour, head east to Issaquah. Along the way, stop at the Jimi Hendrix Memorial, where the legendary performer is buried alongside family at Greenwood Memorial Park cemetery, or take a vigorous 3-mile hike up Cougar Mountain Regional Wildland Park from the Jim Whittaker Wilderness Peak Trailhead. Once in Issaquah and you’ve burned a few calories, you’ll find seventyfive-year-old Boehm’s Candies and Chocolates, in an authentic reproduction of an Alpine chalet. Founder Julius Boehm was a big personality with an adventurous spirit who made a lasting impact on the town, and you can learn about him, and how his European-style, hand-made chocolates are still produced, on a factory tour. This experience is $100 for a group of eight, so bring your 60
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
friends. You’ll be rewarded with an up-close look at his life and his legacy, starting with a tour of his house above the shop, then through the production facility where you’ll be sampling along the way. As you leAve. you’ll be handed bags of candy, each packed with about $20 worth of luscious treats to take home. For an even more hands-on experience, book a class and learn how to make the candies yourself. Boehm’s chocolates range from classics like chocolate-covered brandied cherries, and rocky road embedded with massive chunks of fluff y marshmallows, to modern confections made with ingredients such as mushroom salt or cactus flower honey. Or, take a self-guided tour where you can peek through seven windows to get the Wonka effect—by taking in the candy-making. Make it a chocolate tour trifecta and head west into North Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood and hit the Theo Chocolate Factory, founded in 2005 and the first organic, fair-trade certified chocolate maker in North America. The one-hour tour costs $12 and includes plenty of samples of Theo’s wildly popular chocolate bars, peanut butter cups and other candies, plus you’ll learn the art and science of bean-to-bar chocolate, get the inside scoop on fair trade practices, and see chocolatiers at work. Fremont is a quirky gem, so don’t leave without visiting the massive Fremont Troll sculpture (lurking under a bridge of course). Check out the shops and restaurants (Revel, a Korean-influenced restaurant, is a longtime favorite, see pg. 64), or walk along the canal and watch the boats. If you time it right, you can shop for artisan goods at the Fremont Sunday Market. Still haven’t had your fill of chocolate? Head to the Pike Place area where there’s fabulous chocolate on seemingly every corner. Stop by indi chocolate for expertly pulled espresso and single-origin chocolate bars and truffles. You can even buy machines to make your own bean-to-bar chocolate. One block east is Seleuss Chocolate, known for pushing the boundaries with things like cigar-infused truffles. A few blocks south sits the iconic downtown outpost of Fran’s Chocolates,, purveyor of perhaps Seattle’s most elegant, famous, family-owned confectioner. Directly up Pike Street in Capitol Hill, get a Mexican take on chocolate at Rey Amargo,, the first U.S. shop of a venerable, family-owned chocolate factory with seven shops in Mexico. Sip traditional drinking chocolates then load up on spiced cocoa powders, baking chocolates, bars and confections are all made with stone-ground cacao sourced from small family farms in Mexico.
PLAN IT SEATTLE CHOCOLATE
1180 Andover Park W. Seattle 425-264-2705 www.seattlechocolate factory.com
ROYCE’
504 Southcenter Mall Tukwila 206-246-5010 www.roycechocolate.com
BOEHM’S CANDIES AND CHOCOLATES CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Seattle Chocolate’s factory is woman-owned and run. At Seattle’s Theo Chocolate factory, see the organic, fairtrade treats being made. Fran’s Chocolates in downtown Seattle handcrafts truffles, salted caramels and more. Nama Chocolate, a worldclass confection from Royce’ Chocolate. (photos, clockwise from top: Jackie Dodd, Theo Chocolate, Fran’s Chocolates, Royce’ Chocolate)
255 NE Gilman Blvd. Issaquah 425-392-6652 www.boehmscandies.com
THEO CHOCOLATE
3400 Phinney Ave. N. Seattle www.theochocolate.com/ factory-tours
INDI CHOCOLATE
1901 Western Ave. D Seattle www.indichocolate.com
FRAN’S CHOCOLATES 1325 1st Ave. Seattle www.frans.com
SELEUSS
www.seleuss chocolates.com
REY AMARGO
722 E. Pike St. Seattle www.reyamargo.us
COUGAR MOUNTAIN REGIONAL WILDLAND PARK
www.kingcounty.gov
FREMONT SUNDAY MARKET
www.fremontmarket.com photos, top: Boehm’s Candies and Chocolates
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
61
PLAN IT HAPPY HAPPY FUDGE The Obertal Mall, 220 9th St. Leavenworth 509-470-7799 www.facebook.com
FUDGE HUT
933 Front St., Suite A Leavenworth 509-548-0466 www.fudgehut.com
ICICLE COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE
900 Front St., Suite E Leavenworth 509-888-4664 www.icicle-coffeechocolates.my shopify.com
YETI CHOCOLATES
308 Rock Island Drive Rock Island www.yetichocolates.com
SCHOCOLAT
843 Front St. Leavenworth 509-548-7274 www.schocolat.com
WATERFRONT PARK
www.cityof leavenworth.com
ICICLE GORGE HIKING
www.wta.org/go-hiking/ hikes/icicle-gorge-loop
LIBERTY ORCHARDS
www.libertyorchards.com
SMALLWOODS HARVEST
www.facebook.com
photos, from top: Willow Merritt, Icicle TV, Icicle TV
Leavenworth’s Fudge Hut boasts creamy classic chocolate fudge with a vanilla-fudge-coconut center and chopped almonds. (photo: Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce)
Fudgy Love IN LEAVENWORTH
The adorable Alpine-esque town of Leavenworth is known for its dedication to all things Bavarian, but the chocolate shops hew to a more American (fudge-centric) theme. There’s no shortage of shops to get your fudge fix, including Happy Happy Fudge, which specializes in seasonal, handmade fudge and even makes vegan versions. Fudge Hut uses a steam kettle to mix its wide array of smooth and creamy flavors and Icicle Coffee and Chocolate wows customers with rotating flavors such as raspberry pistachio and Biscoff cookie. Icicle Coffee also sells locally made, artisan, organic and seasonally driven Yeti Chocolates that are as gorgeous as they are hard to find outside the Wenatchee area of their base in Rock Island. Yeti Chocolates aren’t the only locally made chocolates that stand out from the fudgy crowd. Schocolat, with its exquisite European-style chocolates handmade in small batches, has become a destination all its own. Don’t pass over the brandied pear caramel, which features dried Washington pears steeped in brandy. Once fortified by chocolate, head to Leavenworth’s Waterfront Park, to picnic or savor your sweet stash and watch the Wenatchee River float by. Or stretch your legs with a hike in Icicle Gorge. Farm stands along Highway 2 are fun to poke around in, especially Smallwoods Harvest with its petting zoo and tiny train ride for kiddos. For another fascinating behind-the-scenes tour, visit the Liberty Orchards factory in Cashmere and see how they make their famous Aplets and Cotlets, candies with the flavor of crisp Washington apples, ripe apricots (locally known as “cots”) and the crunch of English walnuts. They’re not chocolate but they’re still a delight.
62 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Spokandy handcrafts chocolate covered creams, caramels, Northwest huckleberries and truffles. Nibble Spokandy on the Numerica SkyRide for the sweetest views of Spokane Falls, which runs through downtown. Let chocolate and a ride on the hand-carved Looff Carousel make you feel like a kid, then stroll through Nishinomiya Tsutakawa Japanese Garden and contemplate sister-city friendship and the 1967 design of landscape architect Nagao Sakurai, who oversaw the grounds of the Imperial Palace of Tokyo. (photos, clockwise from left: Aaron Theisen/Visit Spokane, Aaron Theisen/Visit Spokane, Visit Spokane, Visit Spokane)
SPOKANE’S SWEET
Legacy
Eastern Washington’s biggest city has a long history of candy making, and you can still taste that legacy today. First stop: Spokandy in downtown Spokane. It’s been around since 1913, when founder Terrance J. Riley opened his candy shop with a confection he dubbed “The Murphy.” Made with a whipped and marshmallow-y filling, dipped in chocolate, then rolled in shredded coconut, it’s still a best-seller more than 100 years later. In addition to the Murphy (which also comes in huckleberry flavor), plus other soft-center chocolates and chews, Spokandy offers Michele’s Chocolate Truffles line of gourmet chocolates in flavors such as bourbon pecan, chai, and Mt. Hood Crunch (white chocolate ganache, coconut cashews, dipped in white chocolate and topped with bits of brittle). For a truly Northwest treat, get a Bigfoot Paw—think turtle but twice as big and in the shape of a paw, made with nuts and caramel all dipped in chocolate. Even closer to downtown’s main shopping and dining area is another local icon: Bruttles Candies. Sophia Gerkensmeyer first concocted the recipe for her signature soft, flaky, peanut-buttery peanut
brittle in the 1950s, but she got her start in the Spokane candy industry in 1914 when she was 17 years old. The rich and flakey chocolate-dipped Bruttles, in peanut or cashew flavors, are wildly popular and for good reason. If you’re a Butterfinger fan, this candy is for you—though it might spoil you forever. Luckily, these iconic candy shops are nearby Spokane’s wonderfully scenic Riverfront Park along the Spokane River. What used to be a railyard is now thriving with attractions such as the 1909 Loof Carousel and an outdoor ice skating ribbon—(not a rink, but a 16-foot-wide, 650-foot-long pathway to a 3,500-square-foot pond)—complete with skate rentals, a café and fire pits for keeping cozy while resting. In the summer, the Numerica Skate Ribbon is a paved space to rollerblade, skateboard or scooter. The park is next to the largest urban waterfall in the country, and you can even take a tram ride over the falls. From there it’s a short jaunt to the Northwest Museum of Art and Culture, founded in 1916 and an affiliate of the Smithsonian. It focuses on the art and history of the region, including local pioneer and Native American history, as well as a rotating selection of curated exhibits, such as the works of Louis Comfort Tiffany. If you visit later in spring and through the fall, stop at Manito Park Botanical Gardens and the Nishinomiya Tsutakawa Japanese Garden when gorgeous landscapes bloom and change with the seasons. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
PLAN IT SPOKANDY
1412 W. 3rd Ave. Spokane 509-624-1969 www.spokandy.com
BRUTTLES CANDIES
828 W. Sprague Ave. Spokane 509-228-9509 www.bruttles.com
MANITO PARK AND BOTANIC GARDENS
www.my.spokanecity.org/ parks/major/manito
NISHINOMIYA TSUTAKAWA JAPANESE GARDEN
www.my.spokanecity. org/parks/gardens/ nishinomiya-tsutakawajapanese
NORTHWEST MUSEUM OF ART AND CULTURE www.northwest museum.org
LOOF CAROUSEL
www.my.spokanecity. org/riverfrontspokane/ attractions/looff-carrousel
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63
Savor THE SHARED
Cook like a James Beard Awardnominated chef with recipes from Washington’s best written by Cathy Carroll
FLAVOR
In the 2009 movie Julie & Julia based on a similarly titled memoir, author Julie Powell, dismayed with her life and her job answering phone calls from victims of 9/11, challenges herself to cook the 524 recipes in Julia Child’s two-volume Mastering the Art of French Cooking in her tiny New York apartment kitchen in 365 days. In the same vein, we’ve asked five Washington chefs honored by the James Beard Foundation to share recipes we can prepare at home. It’s also a chance to recognize the chefs who never saw the culmination of the nominations. As restaurants reeled during the pandemic in 2020, the foundation did not pick winners in many categories, including those in which these Washington chefs were nominated. It was the first such decision in the awards’ thirty-year history. In 2021, in lieu of awards, the foundation hosted “Stories of Resilience and Leadership,” saluting the independent restaurant community and those who made a significant impact in the industry and their communities during the pandemic. The awards for 2022 are pending, so stay tuned. In the meantime, get out your apron and fire up the stove. We wish you well on a culinary journey of your own using the recipes of some of America’s best chefs.
64 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Aaron Verzosa delved into Modernist cuisine and French gastronomy at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris before returning to his Northwest roots and opening Archipelago. (photo: René Asis)
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 65
AT LEFT Aaron Verzosa works to empower Filipino-owned food and beverage businesses. ABOVE Aaron Verzosa and his wife and restaurant partner, Amber Manuguid, launched Balikbayan Box dinner kits. (photos, from left: René Asis, Intentionalist)
AARON VERZOSA ARCHIPELAGO
2020 James Beard Foundation Award Nominee: Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific (Alaska, Hawaii, Oregon, Washington); in October, named one of America’s 50 most exciting restaurants on The New York Times’ 2021 Restaurant List
Seemingly everything Aaron Verzosa does reveals an intense longing to connect people in the Northwest to Filipino culture through its diverse, vibrant cuisine and to strengthen those bonds within the region’s Filipino American community. The pandemic didn’t hamper this effort. Instead, it sparked even more ingenious, ambitious tactics for the mission he shares with his wife-and-Archipelago restaurant partner, Amber Manuguid. For example, when the lockdown hit, they began
66 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
offering “Balikbayan Boxes,” named for the corrugatedboxed care packages that Filipino workers who immigrated to the U.S. would send to families in their homeland. Verzosa’s version packed all the ingredients for a meal to cook at home, including an assortment of produce, mostly harvested the same day from his favorite Northwest farms. The restaurant’s sauces and fermented products, such as the distinctly Filipino shrimp paste, are made in-house with Oregon shrimp. The seafood is from local fishmongers and in-house butchered cuts focus on sustainable, wholeanimal, zero-waste policy intrinsic to Filipino culture. Prepared dishes for pickup, called Pamana, each had a theme highlighting an aspect of Filipino heritage and changed weekly, as did the boxed kits.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
As with those pivots, Verzosa said whenever he shares recipes, including the one for this issue, he strives to connect the community with a dish that gives them freedom to adapt it for vegetarians, pescatarians, food allergies, personal preferences and the seasons. “It’s a really comforting dish during these colder months,” he said. “It has a heartiness to it even without any meat. Especially now, we wanted to highlight our farmers, who are the heroes in a lot of ways.” Verzosa grew up in Vancouver and graduated from the University of Washington, where he took a Filipino language class. He said the dish evokes nostalgia. “I remember it in some shape or form at almost every kind of celebration, like a birthday, and also one I love doing because it really showcases the vegetable-centric aspect
of our cuisine that doesn’t get too much attention.” He used pandemic restrictions as a means to ignite new ideas. “We wanted to not just keep the doors open, but also create an experience that still tapped into the creative spirit of how we approach the cuisine and our culture,” he said. The James Beard award nomination was rewarding on a level that was not just personal. “We are happy to be recognized, but what is most important … is for our culture—to show younger generations as well as older that we’re very proud of our cuisine, and it can stand up to any cuisine—fine dining, fast casual, it has a lot of potential and a lot of power. That’s why we got into it, to build a business that diversifies the food scene and what people engage in.”
RECIPE
Ginataang Kalabasa FOR THE GINATAAN SAUCE • 2 cups whole roasted unsalted hazelnuts (or hazelnut butter) • 2 large yellow onions, sliced thin • 1/2 head garlic, sliced thin • 2 teaspoons ginger, minced • 1 teaspoon Dilaw or turmeric powder • 2 siling labuyo or small red hot chili, stem removed (can substitute 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper) • 1½ teaspoon tomato paste • ¼ cup white wine vinegar • 1 tablespoon fish sauce • 1 tablespoon salt • 3 tablespoons clarified butter or neutral oil (such as canola or vegetable) • 4 cups vegetable stock FOR THE SQUASH • 6 cups mixed winter squash or 1 large winter squash (try red kuri or kabocha), diced into 3/4 inch cubes • Oil • Salt TO ASSEMBLE • 3 cups seasonal greens (kales, spinach, green beans), chopped • ¼ cup shallot, minced • 1 tablespoon garlic, minced • 1 teaspoon ginger, minced • ½ tablespoon bagoong guisado (fried fermented shrimp paste) • Reserved ginataan sauce • 1 tablespoon chives, minced • 2 tablespoons neutral oil FOR THE GINATAAN SAUCE Place roasted hazelnuts in a food processor and process for 4 to 5 minutes until it forms a butter. (They must be roasted to form a butter.) Or, you can substitute hazelnut butter. On medium heat in a medium size sauce pot, sauté onions and garlic with a wooden spoon in clarified butter or neutral
oil until almost translucent, about 4 to 5 minutes. Season with 2 teaspoons of salt. Add ginger, chiles, turmeric and tomato paste and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the vinegar and fish sauce, and cook until reduced by half. Mix in the hazelnut butter to incorporate it, which should take about 30 seconds. Add the vegetable stock, season with another teaspoon of salt, bring to a very low simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Stir occasionally so the sauce does not burn. Puree sauce in a blender until smooth. Adjust salt level to taste. Set aside and keep it warm. FOR THE SQUASH While making the sauce, set oven to 400 degrees. Toss sauce with squash in neutral oil and season with salt. Roast squash in oven until just barely cooked (with a slight bite, not mushy), about fifteen to twenty minutes. Set aside. Peel off the skin of squashes that are not tender after cooking. TO ASSEMBLE Sauté shallot and garlic on medium high heat until lightly caramelized, about 2 to 3 minutes, mix in bagoong, and gently incorporate reserved squash, coating with sautéed base. Add the greens and sauté to wilt slightly. Add the reserved ginataan sauce and bring to a low simmer. Allow to cook and let flavors all come together until squash finishes cooking all the way through, about 5 to 10 minutes. Garnish with chives or other herbs you enjoy. OPTIONAL ADDITIONS • Mushrooms (shiitake, oyster, maitake are great), can be roasted with squash or caramelized.
• Pork, small cubes of shoulder caramelized and seasoned are a great topping. • Shrimp, simply sautéed or added at the end to just cook through. • Fish such as cod, halibut or salmon poached gently in the sauce. • Crab steamed and tossed in the mix (use the crab fat in the head blended into the sauce for Filipino bonus points). • Chicken (great roasted and mixed in at the end). CHEF’S NOTE For nut allergies, substitute pumpkin seeds or seed butters. Hazelnuts are our local preference, but the classic dish uses coconut milk. You can substitute the vegetable stock and nut butter entirely with coconut milk. The sauce works great for all kinds of other vegetables, sauteed or stewed in the sauce, or you can just use the sauce over some roasted meat or seafood. For a vegetarian version, omit the shrimp paste and fish sauce, replacing with some tamari, or a couple of teaspoons of dried mushroom powder. Just the right amount of funkiness hits that cultural note in the dish.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 67
RECIPE
Shrimp and Grits • ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 cup small diced red bell pepper • 1 cup small diced celery • 1 cup small diced onion • 1 garlic clove, minced • ½ tsp ground mustard seed • ½ tsp smoked paprika • ½ tsp chili powder • ¼ tsp ground cumin • ¼ tsp cayenne • 1/3 cup dry white wine • 1 cup stock (preferably seafood stock, but vegetable or chicken will also work) • 2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature • 1 pound cleaned shrimp • Kosher salt to taste • Lemon juice to taste • Grits or polenta FOR THE GRITS • 2 cups chicken broth • 2 cups whole milk • 1/3 cup butter, cubed • 3/4 teaspoon salt • 1/2 teaspoon pepper • 3/4 cup uncooked old-fashioned grits • 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese In a pot add oil, bell peppers, celery, onion, and garlic and cook of medium low heat for thirty to forty minutes stirring often until vegetables
68 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
are soft. Add spices and stir and continue to cook over low heat for two minutes to toast the spices. Add wine to the pot and cook for five minutes to cook the alcohol out. This sofrito base can be stored for up to five days in the refrigerator. Pat shrimp dry with towel and season with kosher salt. In a separate large sauté pan, add 2 tablespoons of oil and set over high heat. When the oil begins to glisten, add shrimp to the pan. After 30 seconds to 1 minute, flip the shrimp when they turn pink on the bottom. After flipping, add 2 tablespoons of sofrito base to the pan. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. When the stock simmers, whisk in the butter. Adjust sauce with salt to desired taste and add a squeeze of lemon if desired. FOR THE GRITS In a large saucepan, bring the broth, milk, butter, salt and pepper to a boil. Slowly stir in grits. Reduce heat. Cover and cook for 12 to 14 minutes or until thickened, stirring occasionally. Stir in cheese until melted. Set aside and keep warm. TO PLATE Serve shrimp over grits or polenta. Garnish with radish, scallions and cilantro.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
At Sawyer, in Ballard, American fare reaches new creative heights on a menu designed for family-style sharing—in a renovated 1920s sawmill. (photo: Brooke Fitts)
Mitch Mayers creates innovative, whimsical, yet approachable dishes, such as short-rib pho matzo balls and wood-fired sirloin duck-fat tater tots.
MITCH MAYERS SAWYER
2020 James Beard Foundation Award Nominee: Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific (Alaska, Hawaii, Oregon, Washington)
Growing up in Bellevue, Mitch Mayers’ first job in the culinary world was mixing cotton candy sugar and spinning the fluffy treat-ona-stick at one of his family’s booths at the state fair. The family business still guides the creativity at his restaurant, Sawyer, in Ballard, which was a James Beard Foundation 2019 national semifinalist for Best New Restaurant as well as a nominee for 2020 Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific. To wit: we caught up with him when he was at work developing Dungeness crab in a donut. “I’m trying it with a lobster bisque sauce, apples frisée and crème fraîche, so yes, that adds a little pizzazz, but it’s still a doughnut at the end of the
day,” said Mayers. “I try not to forget roots and recognize it’s a big part of me, but a lot of people like that stuff for a reason—it’s fun, it’s exciting, and we try not to take ourselves too seriously. “Food that’s reminiscent of something is so much more powerful in connecting with it and enjoying it—it’s beyond just the flavor profile, it reminds you of something,” he said. “Comfort food is something that’s familiar to you … that’s what we go for. The food we serve is personal to us, but hopefully also rings true to others as well.” He shared his recipe for shrimp and grits because it’s accessible for home cooking. “It’s delicious and hearty this time of year,” he said, but it doesn’t have an intimidating number of steps. “Restaurant recipes have a lot of steps that people don’t realize.” Prep cooks come in at 7 a.m. for dishes that aren’t served until 5 p.m. “With this dish, great flavors happen very quickly.”
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 69
Elizabeth Kenyon grew up on a Montana farm and explored the world’s flavors before falling for Northwest bounty in Seattle. (photo: Kyle Johnson)
ELIZABETH KENYON RUPEE BAR & MANOLIN
2020 James Beard Award: America’s Rising Star Chef of the Year Nominee
Chef Elizabeth Kenyon shared this recipe for several reasons: for one, when she was working in Italy, she fell in love with the flavors of simple braised beef shank. When she traveled to Sri Lanka, she found mutton used in mountainous regions and liked the idea of using older animals for dishes because they impart complex flavors. The thool curry is inspired by the country’s Jaffna region.
70 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
“It’s a deep, complex, spicy curry blend that works beautifully with lamb and especially roasted, grilled or braised meats,” she said. “I wanted to bring this all together for a large-format winter dish for a couple of people to enjoy on our rainy Seattle nights. “I love a good braise. It’s easy, delicious and really fun to present a large piece of meat to friends and family. I like larger cuts because it makes for a fun and involved eating experience.” She offered a few tips for making this dish. Let the shanks sit in the braising liquid for twenty-four hours in the fridge, she said, because the meat will absorb all the flavors of the ingredients in
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
the braise. “It makes a huge difference,” said Kenyon. “Use this tip for any braising meats.” The vegetarian version of this dish is also superb, using winter vegetables. “I have braised celeriac, whole cabbage and any root vegetables this way for a hearty vegetarian meal,” said Kenyon. Any Indian grocery will have curry leaves and spices. Kenyon uses India Supermarket in Bellevue. She suggested making a larger batch of the curry blend and chili oil and keep in an airtight container to use on naan, pita, sourdough bread, rice or lentils. The lamb shank dish remains on the Rupee Bar menu. Staples such as the
dhal curry, with red lentils, mustard seed, and curry leaf and Kerala fried chicken, yogurt-marinated chicken thighs, spiced, breaded, fried and spiced again, have held steady on a menu that embraces seasonal items, too. Kenyon also leads the kitchen of nationally acclaimed fish-focused Manolin, where the pandemic fueled rather than foiled the creative spark. They launched the pop-up Old Salt at Manolin (currently Thursdays through Sundays) where the bagels are made fresh daily and adorned with briny bounty such as smoked black cod, gravlax, kippered keta and trout. “We procure all of our fish through Northwest Bounty and smoke everything in house,” said Kenyon. “It’s been a really fun project to work on.” At home, her approach to cooking isn’t much different from that of other busy people. “My go-to is a turmeric soup that is super simple and comforting,” Kenyon said. “With my crazy hours, I can whip up a batch in fifteen minutes for the next few days.” She’s also managed to work with Sound Excursions virtual events in Seattle offering livestream cooking videos. “It has been a blast,” said Kenyon. “It’s awesome to see people cooking along and seeing the finished products in their own homes.”
Rupee Bar in Seattle. (photo: Noah Forbes)
RECIPE
Lamb Shank with Thool Curry (Plus: Tips for a vegetarian version) FOR THE CURRY BLEND (PREPARE FIRST) • 2½ tablespoons coriander • 2½ teaspoons cumin • 1 teaspoon fennel seed • ½ teaspoon fenugreek • ½ teaspoon black peppercorns • 2 cardamom pods • ½ small Ceylon cinnamon stick • 2 cloves • 2 sprigs curry leaf • 3 tablespoons dried red chili powder (preferably guajillo or similar) FOR THE CHILI OIL • 4 tablespoon guajillo powder or similar spice from Indian or Mexican market • 1 tablespoon smoked paprika • ½ c olive oil FOR THE BRAISED SHANKS • 2 lamb fore shanks or hind shanks from your local butcher • 1 yellow onion, chopped • 2 Fresno chilis (or more for increased spiciness), chopped • 2 sprigs curry leaves, stems removed • 8 garlic cloves, chopped • 2 tablespoons thool curry blend • ¼ cup and 2 tablespoons neutral oil (vegetable or canola) • 1 ounce vermouth or white wine • 2 cups vegetable stock, beef stock or water
FOR THE CHILI OIL Blend in the blender, strain if desired. FOR THE BRAISED SHANKS Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Season the shanks liberally with salt. Heat a sauté pan, preferably cast iron. When white smoke forms, add 2 tablespoons of the neutral oil. Sear shanks on all sides until dark and caramelized. Set aside. Add all ingredients except vermouth and thool curry blend to the pan and cook until golden. Add the alcohol to the cooked vegetables to deglaze the pan and stir well making sure to get the fond off the bottom of the pan. Turn off heat and add thool curry powder and mix well. Place vegetable mixture in an oven-safe dish with a lid. (Kenyon uses Le Creuset or Staub braising pans.) Place the shanks on top of the vegetables and wiggle the pan gently to get the shanks nuzzled into them. Add 2 cups of water, vegetable or beef stock. Cover with
lid and place in oven for 3 hours or until tender. When finished, pull from the oven and let it cool to room temperature before placing in the fridge. Next day: Remove shanks from braising liquid and let it come to room temperature. Place braising liquid in sauce pot. Bring to a light simmer and turn off heat. Add liquid to blender and blend until very smooth. Add 1/4 c of neutral oil and whisk to emulsify. Season with salt and lemon to taste. TO PLATE Place shanks in a sauté pan and spoon some curry sauce over the shanks Place in 400-degree oven for 15 minutes until heated through. While the shanks are in the oven, heat curry sauce in a saucepan over low to medium heat. Do not boil. Place warm curry on bottom of plate and place shanks in the middle. Garnish with chili oil, sea salt flakes (preferably Maldon) salt and/ or microgreens.
FOR THE CURRY BLEND Dry curry leaf in low oven. Remove and let cool. Toast all spices separately in sauté pan until aromatic. Do not burn. If this happens, start over or the blend will taste bitter. Lay toasted spices flat on plate or sheet tray to cool. When cool, blend in spice grinder or blender until powdery. Place in airtight container. Spices will last for 2 to 4 weeks before losing potency.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 71
RECIPE
Brown Butter Mochi • 2 mochi (Japanese palm-sized, chewy, glutinous rice cakes) • 1 tablespoon soy • 1 tablespoon butter • 1 tablespoon sugar • Shichimi peppers (chili flakes, also optional)
MUTSUKO SOMA KAMONEGI
2020 James Beard Foundation Award Nominee: Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific (Alaska, Hawaii, Oregon, Washington)
Chef Mutsuko Soma came up in the restaurant business at respected Seattle restaurants such as Harvest Vine, Chez Shea and Saito’s. What
FOR THE SAUCE Melt butter in a sauté pan on medium heat until it is brown. Add soy and sugar and mix. FOR THE MOCHI Bake mochi in an oven at 425 degrees until it puffs
she really wanted, though, was to introduce fresh soba—the kind her grandmother made for family dinners—to a broader audience. She returned to Japan to learn the art of making traditional soba, where the beloved buckwheat noodle is savored cold or hot. During her soba studies, Soma discovered that Washington was among the largest
Mutsuko Soma opened nationally acclaimed Kamonegi, which is Japanese for “duck and leek,” which alludes to when one good thing brings another—and it is also a delicious pairing with soba.
72 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
and the corners are a bit burned. (This usually takes about five minutes, but check periodically.) Dip mochi in the buttery soy sauce and enjoy, or sprinkle a little shichimi pepper on top for added spice.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
buckwheat producing states in America. That reaffirmed her plan to popularize soba in the Pacific Northwest. She founded Kamonegi as a pop-up and opened the restaurant in 2017, receiving national accolades. Soma decided to share this brown butter mochi recipe because it reflects how she is inspired by cooking techniques and recipes from
around the world. This is inspired by French cuisine, in particular a sauce called beurre noisette, often called hazelnut butter because melted brown butter tastes almost like hazelnuts. “Mochi is always a tradition to eat around the new year in Japan,” said Soma. “I wanted to showcase that there are many different styles to enjoy mochi and this recipe is very easy to make as well.” Soma is the kind of chef who thirsts for knowledge and loathes being parched. She is a certified kikizakeshi, or sake sommelier, and with Kamonegi co-owner Russell King opened Hannyatou sake bar next door. During the pandemic, her team’s pastime of sorts was learning about French wines. “We all cook a dish to pair with a bottle in our little wine group,” she said. “We meet once a week. This wine group has given us a place to learn, study and be creative, making dishes that normally will be out of our comfort zone.” She had a lockdown motto that still rings true: “Stay strong Seattle, stay soba.”
RECIPE
Kimchi Cheese Pancake Makes two 9-inch pancakes
• 1 cup all-purpose flour • 2 tablespoon cornstarch • 1 tablespoon garlic powder • 1 tablespoon onion powder • 1 tablespoon gochujang (Korean chili paste) • 1 teaspoon salt • 1 teaspoon baking powder • 1 each egg • ¾ cup water • 1 cup kimchi, chopped • ¼ cup mozzarella cheese • ¼ cup cheddar cheese • 2 tablespoons canola oil Seattle Chef Rachel Yang shares her signature Korean fusion recipes in the cookbook My Rice Bowl: Korean Cooking Outside the Lines. (photo: Charity Burggraaf)
RACHEL YANG
Rachel Yang and her husband, Seif Chirchi, who fell in love in New York City while workJOULE & REVEL ing in a kitchen run by famed 2020 James Beard Foundation Award French chef Alain Ducasse, Nominee: Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific have turned their obsession (Alaska, Hawaii, Oregon, Washington) with bold, unexpected Asian flavors and classic, rigorous technique into a pair of Pacific Northwest culinary darlings. They’ve been recognized with five years of nominations for the James Beard Award for Best Chef Northwest. You’ll typically find Yang and Chirchi cooking on the line in one of their open kitchens, their “babies” who vie for their attention with their two young sons, Rye and Pike. Rachel Yang prescribes comfort foods in turbulent times and offers tips for making the Kimchi Cheese Pancake. “Crispy-yet-gooey cheese is the key to balance spicy and tangy kimchi in this dish,” she said. “Make sure you get a nice crust on the cheese side of the pancake before you flip.” She considers it “the ultimate comfort food. It’s easy to make, especially if you have a jar of kimchi at home that you don’t know what to do with.” For full-spectrum comfort, however, even a chef needs to order takeout sometimes. “I am a big fan of spicy food and love Chinese Sichuan dishes,” said Yang. “You can make or get a takeout of an order of mapo tofu (spicy, saucy, oily, with minced beef ), and you can make at least four to five different variations out of that.”
Mix flour, cornstarch, garlic powder, onion powder, salt, and baking powder together in a mixing bowl. Add egg and water to the dry mixture. Mix well. Add kimchi and mix well. Heat a 9” non stick pan with 1 tablespoon of oil over a medium heat. Pour the half of the batter and spread well. Sprinkle half of mozzarella and half of cheddar cheese evenly over the batter. Once the bottom has crisped up and browned after about 2 to 4 minutes, flip and cook the other side the same way. Make one more. Serve the pancakes hot.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 73
74 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Skiers above Paradise Inn in the 1930s. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, Dwight Watson collection)
Pacific Northwest Ski Culture
Written in the snows LOOKING FOR happiness, robust health and the good life in 2022? The answer lies in friluftsliv, (pronounced free-loofts-liv) or “outdoor life,” which is what it means in Scandinavia—and it is all around us in Washington, too. Ski historian Lowell Skoog details the rich history of Northwest ski culture through his new book, Written in the Snows. From stories of wilderness exploration to the evolution of gear and technique, he traces Washington skiing from the late 1800s to the present—the birth of ski resorts to backcountry skiing as well as how skiing has been shaped by larger social trends, too. Here are a few of the book’s more than 150 photographs from the Seattle-based skier, climber, writer and photographer. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 75
ABOVE Paul Sceva Jr. performs a geländesprung on the ridge of Alta Vista below Mount Rainier in the 1930s. (photo: Tacoma Public Library) AT RIGHT Paul Shorrock and Edna Walsh at The Mountaineers’ Meany Ski Hut in the 1930s. (photo: Rudolf Amsler collection, The Mountaineer Archives)
76 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 77
78 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
ABOVE Carl Skoog crosses Stetattle Ridge during the Picket Range traverse in 1985. (photo: Lowell Skoog) AT LEFT, FROM TOP Don Amick (left) and Bruce Kehr ski fresh snow above Paradise in 1936. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, Dwight Watson Collection) Rene Crawshaw climbs Black Peak for the first ski descent in 1997. (photo: Carl Skoog)
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 79
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 82 ADVENTURE 84 LODGING 86 TRIP PLANNER 88
pg. 88 Snow tubing at The Summit at Snoqualmie, where snowshoeing and alpine, backcountry or cross-country skiing are tempting, too, so you’ll need our weekend guide.
The Summit at Snoqualmie
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92
Same Unforgettable Adventure, Half the Room Rate! Surround yourself in the snowy blankets of an unforgettable Mount Rainier winter… for half the normal room rate.
50% off two or more nights 10% gift shop discount Free snowshoe rental Limited time offer only available through March 15, 2022. Book today!
Don’t Miss the
2022 Spring Season
!
Be the first to enjoy the gorgeous views of the 2022 spring season. Embrace the fresh mountain air with over 260 miles of beautifully preserved hiking trails, waterfalls, night skies, wildflower meadows, and spectacular wildlife. Limited space is available. Book today! Opening for the Summer of 2022 from May 21st to October 3rd.
NATIONAL PARK INN 47009 Paradise Road E, Ashford, WA 98304
PARADISE INN 52807 Paradise Road E, Ashford, WA 98304
GSI22_RGS_Ad_1889Magazine_Stay&Play-Opening_9x10-875_20220121.indd 1
MtRainierGuestServices.com Reservations: (855) 755-2275 Blackout dates may apply. Visit website for availability. Dates and times for our holiday specials available online.
1/13/2022 1:16:03 PM
Free Heel, Free Mind
White Pass’s new Nordic Ski Trails offer views, snowshoeing and snow-biking, too written by Cathy Carroll BREAK OUT (or rent) your skinny skis—the new White Pass Nordic Center in Naches is waiting for you, whether you want to complement lifts and downhill with cardio-charged kicks or you’re looking for another entry to snow sports. If you can walk, you can glide, and these groomed trails will reward you with stellar views of Cascade Crest. The 18 kilometers of trails range from beginner friendly to endorphin-laced paths for expert cross-country skiers. Rent gear for classic Nordic skiing, skate-skiing, snowshoeing and fat-biking equipment at the cozy retail center in a yurt. Kids can grab a sled for the nearby tubing hill, too. Meet back at the yurt for a snack and to recount the day’s fun. Want to downhill one day and Nordic the next? Check out the condos at White Pass Village Inn, a short walk from the ski area, or at hotels in downtown Yakima, an hour’s drive. The Nordic Center, across from the White Pass Ski Area on Highway 12, is open 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday through Sunday and holidays. See you in the tracks.
Snowshoeing at the new White Pass Nordic Center, where you can rent equipment and hit the trails for easily accessible wonder, fun and cardio.
82
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Shannon Mahre/Mahre MADE and Girls with Grit
Travel Spotlight
Project is funded totally or in part, as applicable, by the Okanogan County Hotel/Motel Lodging Tax Fund
FREE MAPS AND GUIDES! Call 888.431.3080, Scan the QR Code, or visit OkanoganCountry.com to start planning your adventure today!
adventure
Comforts of Whidbey
At Comforts of Whidbey on Whidbey Island, your fluffy bed is steps from the winery and tasting room.
Sip and Dream
The day’s wine tasting adventures don’t have to end when you’re spending the night at the vineyard written by MaryRose Denton
THE BEST ADVENTURES are the overnight ones— whether it’s bivouacking in the backcountry or bunking in an alpine hut, the idea is to stay where the fun is. This also applies to wine tasting. Why not only visit a winery, but stay there, too? From a French-style villa to glamping in a tiny house, take the pace of life down a few notches and wake up amid the vines. Immerse yourself in the full experience beyond the tasting room doors at these wineries. 84 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
WHIDBEY ISLAND
Comforts of Whidbey An hour north of Seattle and one ferry ride away is the luscious, rural landscape of Whidbey Island. Just outside Langley is the friendly, family-owned Comforts of Whidbey, a winery known for its white-grape varieties and for cozy bed and breakfast above the tasting room. Gaze out on the Sound or the rolling pastures of the vineyard and twenty-two-acre farm from one of six rooms, and you’ll feel relaxed before you’ve even had a sip of wine, but it’s wise not to delay that. Sample a flight of the latest offerings and then dive into a comfy robe and king-sized bed in your room. In the morning, meander down to the tasting room, this time for a full breakfast and a chance to chat with your hosts—judging by the family name alone, Carl and Rita Comfort will make you feel welcome. The rest of the day is yours to wander into Langley, explore sites of Whidbey Island, or merely recharge your soul amid the vines.
Richard Schmitz
Siren Song
Alexandria Nicole Cellars
adventure
ABOVE, FROM LEFT Alexandria Nicole Cellars tiny houses put in the Horse Heaven Hills and Destiny Ridge Vineyard in your front yard. Siren Song Winery and restaurant in Lake Chelan lets you revel in food and wine tastings and cooking classes. Eritage Resort intoxicates with views of the Blue Mountains and wine country’s rolling farmlands.
HORSE HEAVEN HILLS
Alexandria Nicole Cellars At Alexandria Nicole Cellars, tiny homes offer a big experience on a 243-acre estate. Awake to impressive views overlooking the Columbia River from the Destiny Ridge Vineyard. The four dwellings pack sprawling comforts into cozy sizes, ranging from about 200 to 400 square feet. Expect comfy beds, warm duvets, full kitchens, private bathrooms and wheelchair accessibility. Glimpse vineyard living, sample the latest blend and start feeling restored. LAKE CHELAN
Nefarious Cellars On the south shore of Lake Chelan, the guest house at Nefarious Cellars is a place for sweet dreams. The two-story loft overlooks the seven-and-a-half-acre vineyard, Defiance, as well as the serene lake. The spacious kitchen, open living area, two bedrooms, one-and-a-half baths let you slip graciously into lake time. While away an afternoon with board games or curl up with selections from the library and sip the winery’s most recent release. Sink into one of the Adirondack chairs, pour a syrah or recently released rosé into a Riedel glass and toast la dolce vita. LAKE CHELAN
Siren Song Vineyard Estate Like the mighty seafaring Odysseus, you’ll be lured and enchanted by the
irresistible call of Siren Song Vineyard Estate and Winery on the shores of Lake Chelan. Settle in with a simple, artisan pizza of tomato, mozzarella and fresh basil paired with an estate merlot, then stroll through the vineyard and around the piazza fountain before retiring to the Villa, which accommodates six and has a full kitchen. WALLA WALLA
Eritage Eritage, minutes from downtown Walla Walla and on a 300-acre of vineyard, offers ten luxury suites and ten cabins, each with its own deck or patio. Step out to gaze at the Blue Mountains, rolling farmland and inviting lake, perfect for a little paddleboarding or recline on the shore, sipping an estate grown Vital Wines syrah as the sun sets beyond the grove. Dine at Eritage’s farm-to-table restaurant. Begin with charcuterie and cheese from a local farm and fromagerie. Follow that with handmade pasta or Alaskan salmon. Afterward, unwind in your wellappointed guest quarters with a dessert wine such as Eritage’s orange muscat and as cares melt away in the large soaking tub. Wake to breakfast at the vineyard, with fresh coffee, yogurt with homemade granola, savory egg dishes and sweety sticky buns, warm from the oven, and you’re ready for a day exploring Walla Walla wineries. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
MORE PLACES TO STAY Farmhouse + Mansion Luxury The Inn at Abeja Walla, Walla Seclude yourself in luxury among thirty-eight acres of garden and vineyards at this century-old farmhouse. Each guest house has a story, from the Hayloft Suite with a Murphy bed and sweeping views of the vineyard to the Carriage House, with its treetop bedroom and claw-foot tub. Interested in viticulture? Schedule a private tour of the winery.
Warm Springs Inn & Winery Wenatchee This dreamy 1917 mansion on the banks of the Wenatchee River will inspire a romantic weekend. Ask for champagne and chocolates in your room or a romantic riverfront picnic for two, with local cheeses, fruits, chocolates, a crusty baguette and of course, wine. Read more about Warm Springs Inn & Winery on pg. 86.
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 85
Photos: Warm Springs Inn & Winery
lodging
ACCOMMODATIONS Each of the six rooms have their own personality, so you’ll want to read all about them before making your selection. Whether you’re in the mood for the light and airy, Garden Suite, ideal for a first or second honeymoon, or you’re craving the vintage feel of the English room, or desire a private entrance in the Orchard and River rooms, there’s something for you.
DINING
AT TOP Warm Springs Inn, a bed and breakfast on ten acres of riverfront in Wenatchee. The 9,000-square-foot mansion built in 1917 is surrounded by cherry orchards and options for adventures in Chelan County. BELOW, FROM LEFT Emerge from the Garden Suite for a satisfying breakfast prepared by Ludger with locally sourced ingredients. Ludger and Julie Szmania renovated and reopened the property in 2014 after adding a wine bar and tasting room overlooking the river. Prince the peacock struts the grounds.
Lodging
Warm Springs Inn & Winery written by Cara Strickland YOU MIGHT NOT think of Wenatchee as the place to plan a romantic getaway, but this little historic B&B at the end of Love Lane might just change your mind. The waterfront property spans ten acres, and guests are invited to explore and admire the view of the Wenatchee River. The inn was originally a mansion, built in 1917. It was ready for some renovations when Ludger and Julie Szmania happened upon it in 2013. The couple owned a restaurant in Seattle for years, Szmania’s in Magnolia, but they were ready to embrace something new. They sold the restaurant and began getting the inn into shape, and they started making wine, too. Now, Ludger taps into his chef roots with a three-course breakfast every morning, and continues to perfect his winemaking skills with each vintage. It’s just a few minutes to Wenatchee or Leavenworth and a bit longer to Chelan, which makes this the perfect place to land before setting out on local adventures. Or, you can sit on the deck with a cup of coffee and go nowhere at all. For more winery stays, see pg. 84. 1611 LOVE LANE WENATCHEE www.warmspringsinn.com
86 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
With Chef Ludger’s background, expect the (complimentary) breakfast each morning to be wonderful. Three courses will fuel you for the day: there are baked goods, lighter options such as a yogurt parfait, as well as something hearty and savory, such as poached eggs atop wheat berries and vegetables from their farm or a neighboring one. Just let your chef-host know of any dietary restrictions and enjoy hot drinks in the common areas at any time.
AMENITIES Sit in the hot tub on the deck taking in the view of the river, and sip some of the wine made on the premises. Later, join the inn’s afternoon wine tasting. Linger on the comfy sofas on the home’s ground level or on a genteel front porch or the back deck’s two levels. Plan an intimate vow renewal ceremony or an idyllic wedding for up to 300 guests. You’ll even meet a handsome prince here—Prince the peacock adds royal flair as he roams the grounds.
A Quick Escape . . . Endless Possibilities. Elevate your game at the Eastside’s only casino. Snoqualmie Casino offers fast-paced gaming, top-tier entertainment,
award winning restaurants, one of the Northwest’s only cigar lounges and Seattle’s closest Sportsbook. The breathtaking view of the Snoqualmie Valley along with countless entertainment options make Snoqualmie Casino a must-visit destination.
37500 SE North Bend Way, Snoqualmie WA 98065 425-888-1234 | snocasino.com | /snocasino
Colton Jacobs Photography/The Summit at Snoqualmie
trip planner
Snoqualmie Pass
The Summit at Snoqualmie, about an hour’s drive from Seattle, accommodates all levels of skiers, plus snow tubing, snowshoeing and Nordic.
Winter recreation and hidden dining treasures abound written by Richard Durrance
WINTER IS THE season for life along the Snoqualmie Pass. Named for the Snoqualmie people, once one of the area’s most populous tribes in the Puget Sound region, Snoqualmie Pass is still an attraction bolstered by its natural resources. Keep in mind that in February and March, the pass still receives more than 70 inches of snow per month. Snow and expectations are piled high. Often there are skis of alpine, backcountry or cross-country width in the car or snowshoes. In any case, playing on the Snoqualmie Pass in winter and early spring is going to be an adventure. Your trip, however, doesn’t have to be quite so transactional. Here we explore options and resources to make your out-and-back a full weekend. 88
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Day SUMMIT AT SNOQUALMIE ALPENTAL With 2,280 feet of vertical, twenty-five chair lifts and nearly 2,000 skiable acres, Summit at Snoqualmie has enough height and width to explore over many days. Plan a full day at Summit at Snoqualmie with a first-chair start to avoid traffic. After the lates start filling up chairs, take your late breakfast break at Silver Fir Cafe, where you can get coffee, tea or an early lunch of Asian fare or burgers. You’ll be making turns when others are making haste to fight lunch crowds. Summit is composed of four mountain areas: Alpental, Summit East, Summit Central and Summit West.
SNOVALLEY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
Suncadia Resort Orchard Restaurant
90 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Washington Tourism Alliance
A quad and three double chairs at Alpental serve the steepest runs at Summit. Summit East has a happy mix of grades and snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. The Nordic center is here if your agenda puts you on skinny skis. Not merely for the beginner, the Nordic trails at Summit have 70 kilometers of groomed trails that entice even the elite XC skiers. Summit Central is the food and family hub. A variety of ski school grads plus tubing and a base of restaurants makes Central the place to go for families and the place to avoid if you’re not a skiing family. Summit West is another good learning area and, like Central and Alpental, is open for night skiing if you’re escaping on a work day. A full day at Snoqualmie should feel like an accomplishment. Start your après ski at Silver Fir Bar or Tiroler Stube. The former has cocktails, beer and food at the base of Summit Central. The latter has beer and food at the base of Alpental. For lodging, look to Nearby Summit Inn in Snoqualmie Pass. It has standard rooms, a big communal hot tub and good breakfast options, as its restaurant is Summit Pancake House. If you want something a little more upscale, you’ll head down the east side of the pass to Suncadia Resort in Cle Elum. If you do, make dinner plans at the resort’s Stovehouse for Wagyu burgers, or at Orchard Restaurant in Cle Elum for handmade pastas or at Brick Saloon in nearby Roslyn for a burger and the Roslyn salad.
City of North Bend
ABOVE, FROM TOP Suncadia Resort, on the Cle Elum River in Roslyn, offers guest suites, penthouses, condos and rental homes. Orchard Restaurant in downtown Cle Elum, offers modern cuisine using locally sourced ingredients.
trip planner
SNOWSHOEING • FROZEN FALLS
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Mountain goats roam the Snoqualmie Pass area. Head to The Brick Saloon in Roslyn for a century of pub atmosphere. Go snowshoeing to explore Snoqualmie’s beauty. Chef Gianfranco Bafaro’s cuisine at Il Paesano Ristorante in downtown North Bend.
Kittitas County Chamber of Commerce
Don Detrick
Today is a day of opportunity. Bring snowshoes or rent them at Summit at Snoqualmie and head to Gold Creek Snowshoe trailhead for a nearly 3-mile flat out and back snowshoe under the Cascades and out around Gold Creek Pond. You’ll need a Washington State sno-park pass, which is $10 for the day or just $30 for an annual pass. Bring water, chocolate and charged cell phones that you keep close to the warmth of your body. Another must-do today is hiking or snowshoeing to the base of Franklin Falls. In winter, the 135foot falls freeze and create a marvelous setting for photos. Park at the Denny Creek area and expect a two-mile out and back and a memorable sight that will light up any Instagram account. Plan your dining for the night in North Bend, just a little more than 20 miles to the west. For such a small town, there are at least two top-notch options. Iron Duck Public House has steak frites and a full menu of American whiskeys. Or pop in to Gianfranco Bafaro’s Il Paesano Ristorante for housemade pastas and pizza with an impressive list of Italian wines.
SNOQUALMIE PASS, WASHINGTON
Day EAT Brick Saloon, Roslyn www.bricksaloon.com Il Paesano Ristorante, North Bend www.ilpaesanoristorante.com Iron Duck Public House, North Bend www.theironduckpublic house.com Orchard Restaurant, Cle Elum www.orchard-restaurant.com The Stovehouse, Suncadia www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort/dining/thestovehouse-content
STAY Snoqualmie Pass Hideaways www.snoqualmiepass hideaways.com Summit Inn www.summitinnwashington.com Suncadia Resort www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort
PLAY Gold Creek Snowshoe www.wta.org Franklin Falls www.wta.org
Day
Snoqualmie Casino www.snocasino.com
SNOQUALMIE CASINO • HIT THE TRAIL
The Summit at Snoqualmie www.summitatsnoqualmie.com
If you’re feeling plucky and lucky, hit Snoqualmie Casino on your way home. Just a few miles west of downtown North Bend, Snoqualmie Casino has baccarat, roulette, pai gow poker and a sportsbook if you want to get behind your team that Sunday. On your final morning, grab a coffee and pastry at Pioneer Roasting in Cle Elum or Huxdotter Coffee in North Bend and set your sights on the Palouse to Cascades trail for a final act of outdoor bathing. Take a dip into a short section of the trail before heading home. This trail can be accessed on the pass at Hyak, Easton and Cle Elum and is one of the longest rail-to-trail conversions in the United States. This former railroad line, now a state park, goes from North Bend to the the Idaho border along a 300-mile path. This should put an aspirational bookmark in your adventure calendar for summer, when the trails are clear and you can hike, run or bike forever. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 91
northwest destination
A Rugged and Relaxed Retreat Weekend in Northern Idaho: soak up the outdoors and the warmth of cabins and hot springs written by Lincoln Bardon
IT’S MARCH and northern Idaho is straddling the sleet of winter and the early warmth of spring. This is a problem that calls for both cozy home-remedies and intrepid outdoor therapy. In northern Idaho, there is a good case to be made for both. Within 130 miles from Stanley and arching northwest up to Cascade, you can hit four of Idaho’s top natural hot springs, countless hearty hikes and cozy cabin retreats along the way. Beginning in Stanley and venturing west along highway 21 to the WildLife Scenic Byway and Grimes Pass and then north on highway 56, you can divine the formula for solving the problems of shoulder-season weather in its hot springs and 92 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
retreating to a cabin of your choice. Boise National Forest is the setting. With Stanley as a starting point, book a historic log cabin at Redfish Lake Lodge and cozy up to a fire in the stone fireplace. There are many trails to hit when you’re ready, including Alpine Way trail and Williams Creek. Reward yourself at Boat Box Hot Springs, a metal tub for two on the banks of the Salmon River, just east of Stanley on Highway 75. There are also Valley Creek and Cove Creek hot springs nearby if Boat Box is occupied. Heading west to Lowman and Crouch, stop at Kirkham Hot Springs a few miles before Lowman and on the Payette River.
NORTHERN IDAHO
northwest destination
STAY Elk Creek Cabins www.recreation.gov Idaho Vacation Cabins www.idahovacationcabins.com Redfish Lake Lodge www.redfishlake.com Sawtooth Lodge www.sawtoothlodge.com Triangle C Log Cabins www.triangleccabins.com
PLAY Boat Box Hot Springs Kirkham Hot Springs Pine Flats Hot Springs Rocky Canyon Hot Springs
Idaho Tourism
Idaho Tourism
Idaho Tourism
Trail Creek Hot Springs
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Recharge at Trail Creek Hot Springs after soaking in the scenery on a hike in Payette National Forest. Boat Box Hot Springs offers a metal tub for two on the banks of the Salmon River. Warm up at Kirkham Hot Springs on a snowy day. Triangle C Cabins in Stanley is the perfect base camp for a hot springs adventure.
From the parking area, you can find hot spring pools immediately at the river and meander farther upstream for small natural springs along the bank. To make this segment memorable, book the Elk Creek Cabins northeast of Lowman and ski or snowshoe the 15 miles into the rustic cabins. Note that there is no electricity or water at these cabins and that you have to bring your own water, bedding and food. Or continue on to Sawtooth Lodge in Lowman, where you can score a log cabin adjacent to the resort’s geothermal pool fed by the Sacajawea Hot Springs. If you need your cardio fix for the day, pack water, head to Airline Trail and bite off what you can on this 22-mile scenic route.
Finally, pull into Cascade and choose from the rental cabins, many of which are along Lake Cascade. About 20 miles northeast on Forest Service Road 22 you’ll find Trail Creek Hot Springs. Trail Creek Springs are pools perched in boulders in and along Trail Creek and not more than a quarter mile from the parking lot. Here in the Payette National Forest there are myriad scenic hikes, too. The lower section of Eagle’s Nest Trail is a good option for getting recreation before heading back into the Cascade area for a fire and a beer at your rental cabin. Grab a map and muse at all of the hot springs that you can visit the next time you find yourself in between seasons and wondering what to do. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 93
1889 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.
Friday Harbor
Aberdeen
Newport
Marysville Everett Chelan
Seattle Bellevue
Port Orchard
Tacoma
Colville Okanogan
Whidbey Island
Olympic National Park
Republic
Winthrop
Coupeville
Port Townsend
Shelton
North Cascades National Park
Mount Vernon
Port Angeles Forks
Oroville
Bellingham
San Juan Islands
Leavenworth
Renton Kent Federal Way
Wilbur
Waterville
Spokane Davenport
Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville
Montesano Olympia
Mount Rainier N.P.
Ellensburg Colfax
Chehalis
South Bend
Pullman Yakima Pomeroy
Long Beach Kelso
Cathlamet
Longview
Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument
Richland
Mount Adams
Prosser
Pasco
Dayton
Walla Kennewick Walla
Goldendale Vancouver
94
Stevenson
Live
Think
Explore
22 Snohomish Ale Trail
48 Crowd Cow
82
White Pass Nordic Center
24 Los Hernandez Tamales
50 Heartwood Apartments
84
Comforts of Whidbey
25 TTs Old Iron Brewery and Barbecue
50 Wadajir
86
Warm Springs Inn
32 Fort Worden
54 Shikorina Pastries
88
Snoqualmie Pass
37 Hotspot Firepits
56 Trillium Employment Services
92
Stanley, Idaho
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2022
Asotin
EL
EVERY TRAIL’S WORTH THE TREK
You won’t find a more inspiring mountain town than Missoula, where three rivers and seven wilderness areas converge in the cultural hub of Montana. The allure is immeasurable, with outdoor access at every corner and a culinary scene that rivals big cities. This vibrant community is bliss for fresh air enthusiasts, creative souls, and anyone who enjoys a good beer alongside a great meal. Missoula doesn’t just feed the soul, it satisfies the senses.
VIEW FROM THE “M” ON MOUNT SENTINEL
Travel Safely. Explore Responsibly. Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/1889 for more information.
Until Next Time Hiking at Panther Creek Falls. photo by Jason Hummel Photography/ Washington Tourism Alliance
Stay a While!
