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Kayak Destinations 5 WA W WASHINGTON SHINGTON SPOTS TO PADDLE THIS SUMMER

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WASHINGTON June | July

volume 31

SSTAY UM&MPLAY ER BWITH REAUS! K?

Spare time with the whole crew at Strikerz Bowling with Xciting Xperience packages, or swing by for a round of virtual golf, rain or shine, at All Things Sports! Visit our website or call 360.474.9740 to book today!

C A S I N O

R E S O R T

The outdoors are calling! We have something for everyone ...and room to explore.

Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory Main Streets Make the Willamette River Their Home Mt. Hood Territory’s main streets don’t just overlook the Willamette River — they connect you to it! Each has its own take on shopping and dining just blocks from the river, which oﬀers recreation opportunities galore along its 187-mile Willamette River Water Trail tying them all together. MILWAUKIE MAIN STREET:

New Access and Reasons to Visit

Milwaukie Bay Park

Milwaukie’s Main Street has experienced a boom in restaurants, retail and access. The MAX Orange Line Light Rail oﬀers easy transit to or from Portland, and the Trolley Trail makes biking or walking between Gladstone and Milwaukie a beautiful, sculpture-ﬁlled breeze.

Portland area. For French-Asian fusion, visit Ovation Bistro, or head north for the Beer Store, oﬀering more than its name, including Impossiburgers. And pick up a locally made memory from Made in Milwaukie.

Arriving from either, a vibrant wall-sized mural welcomes you, signaling you’ve made it to restaurants Milwaukie Station Food Cart Pod and, across the street, Decibel Sound & Drink, recognized as a top cocktail bar in the

One block west of Main Street, Milwaukie Bay Park anchors downtown, complete with boat launch and an amphitheater-style lawn for picnics and performances.

DOWNTOWN LAKE OSWEGO:

Sculptures Woven Throughout Upscale Shopping and Dining Across the river from Milwaukie, downtown Lake Oswego sits at the northern tip of Willamette Falls and Landings Heritage Area. This Area includes destinations with historical significance, Lake Oswego being no exception. Learn about its iron industry history while exploring the Oswego Iron Heritage Trail, which guides visitors to seven sites, including the Oswego Iron Furnace and the Iron Company Workers’ Cottage, now a museum. Today the city’s downtown is known for upscale boutique shopping and dining. In Lake View Village across from Oswego Lake, find reputable local shops, such as Grapevine and Mapel Boutique, both offering personal styling and shopping services. Discover distinctive home décor at Wishbone. And for lakefront dining, try Five Spice Seafood + Wine Bar or Pizzeria sul Lago. Take a 0.5-mile walk to George Rogers Park on the Willamette River, one of the city’s many beautiful parks. Along the way, notice unique outdoor sculptures that are part of Lake Oswego’s Gallery Without Walls. At the park, you can rent seasonal kayaks and SUPs from Alder Creek Kayak, which also offers in-season tours to Hog Island.

HISTORIC WILLAMETTE MAIN STREET: Where Wine Greets the Waterfront

West Linn’s Historic Willamette Main Street sparkles with small town charm. Whatever your palate, there are restaurants along Willamette Falls Drive with plenty of outdoor seating. Wine star Allium Bistro creates dishes with local, seasonal ingredients and pairs them with 58+ wines by the glass. Other options include bevvies at Willamette Ale & Cider House (home of Queen Orchard Cidery), Thai, Mexican and Chinese cuisine, sushi, burgers, pizza and coﬀee bars. Visit the historic Leisman/Elligsen House and pick up the Historic Willamette Walking Tour Booklet, which guides visitors through the Willamette National Historic District. A quick 0.3-mile walk due south

Downtown Oregon City

of the district will take you to Willamette Park, where the Tualatin River meets the Willamette River. eNRG Kayaking opens a seasonal annex here and rents ﬂatwater boats and SUPs to explore the beautiful Narrows. Four area wineries — twill, Tumwater Vineyard, Campbell Lane Winery and Pete’s Mountain Vineyard & Winery — position this community at the perfect intersection of rural and urban amenities.

DOWNTOWN OREGON CITY:

History Meets a Modern-day Pioneering Spirit The official end of the Oregon Trail overlooking Willamette Falls opposite of West Linn, Oregon City is steeped in Indigenous American, emigrant and industrial heritage. While you might be familiar with the 2,000-mile Oregon Trail used by emigrants in the mid-1800s making their way out West, did you know that Willamette Falls is also home to the world’s first electric power grid? It’s also the site of the first long distance transmission of DC, and later AC, electricity in the world. Downtown Oregon City retains this pioneering spirit. You can see it in specialty shops, including White Rabbit Gifts, an independent bookstore selling locally made gifts. For treasures with stories to tell, visit The Refinery, a women’s consignment shop increasing conscious consumerism and Root + Stem Plants, where you can purchase new beauties or take in your sick plants for a “doctor’s visit.” A 0.5-mile walk from downtown takes you to the riverfront and eNRG Kayaking, where you can rent flatwater boats and SUPs. Book a guided paddling tour to Willamette Falls or a kayak fishing seminar. After hitting the water, grab a bite and unwind at Corner 14 Taphouse and Food Carts or at Oregon City Brewing next door.

Downtown Lake Oswego

TO EXPLORE MORE, VISIT:

mthoodterritory.com/territory-communities

DIY Greenhouses photography by Will Austin IMMACULATE AND environmentally sound, luxe greenhouses are surprisingly easy to build on your own with a standard set of tools. (pg. 38)

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

JUNE | JULY 2022

A Charley’s Greenhouse and Garden greenhouse shelters seedlings and plants at Blackburn Gardens in Mount Vernon.

Lake Crescent in Olympic National Park is the perfect launching point for summer adventure.

FEATURES JUNE | JULY 2022 • volume 31

54 Washington’s Top 5 Kayaking Destinations Grab your kayak or rent from nearby venues and slip into Washington’s delicacy of pristine bays, lakes and rivers for views and solitude.

The Future of Oysters

Float Your Boat

One of Washington’s biggest crops was the first to suffer the affects of CO2 acidification and other struggles in the life of the beloved bivalve.

Stunning beauty and strength behind Port Townsend’s Victorian harbor and the sailors who embark on the motorless and harrowing Race to Alaska.

written by Lee Lewis Husk

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

JUNE | JULY 2022

Ronald Hope

written by Ryn Pfeuffer

Discover yourself here.

Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New custom homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Coming soon, a vibrant community plaza, specialty retail and even more amenities will continue to differentiate this unique neighborhood. Discover your best Central Oregon lifestyle by learning more at discoverywestbend.com or visiting our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.

DEPARTMENTS JUNE | JULY 2022 • volume 31

LIVE

16 SAY WA?

Locally made perfumes, Syrah for the tasting and the Sundiata Black Arts Festival are all on the agenda.

22 FOOD + DRINK

Beer milkshakes! Don’t knock em until you’ve downed one. Salumieres from Coro Artisan Meats. A cocktail that will place you at the coast.

28 FARM TO TABLE

Lavender finds its way back into our consciousness and into our desserts.

34 HOME + DESIGN Eviation

You’ve bought the home with a difficult lot. Now what? Design and thrive.

42 MIND + BODY

Young volleyball phenom from Ellensburg, Tia Andaya on her journey and what it takes to succeed.

44 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Photographer Robert Anthony DeFreest has carved out a niche for his work by braving dark nights and waiting for the right moment.

THINK 48 STARTUP

Weight is an issue. Seattle’s Eviation is close to cracking the code of electric flight with its nine-seater.

50 MY WORKSPACE

Efrem Fesaha is bringing the original Ethiopian coffee culture to the modern coffee culture of Seattle.

52 GAME CHANGER

Lisa Laughlin

Lavender Connection

We catch up with the board chair of the Palouse to Cascades Trail Coalition as some finishing touches are made.

12 13 86 88

Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time

EXPLORE 72 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

In Langley, glass blowing artist Callahan Campbell McVay has a cool presence in an old firehouse.

74 ADVENTURE

Five ways to do the coast this summer—from surfing to clamming and hiking the Coast Trail.

78 LODGING

Doe Bay Resort & Retreat on Orcas Island is that remote getaway you’ve craved.

80 TRIP PLANNER

Remember live concerts? The Gorge Amphitheatre is a destination to come back to this summer. We help you plan.

84 NW DESTINATION

Livingston, Montana, is a beautiful little gem east of Bozeman and an outdoors mecca unto itself.

COVER

photo by Andrew Peacock/TandemStock.com San Juan Islands (see “Washington’s Top 5 Kayaking Destinations,” pg. 54)

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Slots, craps, blackjack, roulette, bingo, weekend getaways, culinary artistry, live shows, dancing, sports, spa – whatever it is you want, you’ll find it here. Get into everything at EverythingTulalip.com

CONTRIBUTORS

BEN SALMON Writer Musician

CORINNE WHITING Writer Farm to Table

“I try to pay close attention to what’s going on in the Seattle music scene but had never even heard the name Jeremiah Moon before it popped up in my inbox a few months ago. One spin of his new EP Sputnik and I knew I wanted to write about him. Like I am, he is a huge fan of Sufjan Stevens’ thoughtful and delicate approach to musicmaking, and that influence comes out clearly in Moon’s own beautiful songs.” (pg. 18)

“Researching and writing about the peak bloom of local products allows me to keep track of the seasons in a tangible way. With lavender, this means watching the cycle unfurl yet again in beautiful and aromatic ways. While I’ve often relied on this eyecatching plant for its calming and soothing properties, I learned that it’s capable of so much more, including bringing flavor to some of our favorite foods—both savory and sweet. Welcome, summer!” (pg. 28)

Ben Salmon is a music journalist and critic based in Bend, Oregon. In addition to 1889, he writes about music for Paste, Bandcamp Daily, his hometown daily newspaper and alt-weeklies around the country. He also hosts an eclectic radio show, Left Of The Dial, which you can hear at www.kpov.org.

10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Corinne Whiting is a freelance travel and lifestyle writer with a master’s in cultural studies from the University of Edinburgh. She lives in Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood and spends time near the water as often as possible.

JUNE | JULY 2022

RYN PFEUFFER Writer Washington’s Top 5 Kayaking Destinations “Being near the water is my happy place. After a long Seattle winter, the prospect of playing on local lakes and rivers makes the dark, rainy months seem worth it. It was a delight to research kayaking spots, both new and known (to me), especially after a recent trip to Orcas Island. Kayaking to Point Doughty for sunset and views of the Gulf Islands and northern San Juan Islands never ceases to delight me.” (pg. 54) Ryn Pfeuffer is a freelance lifestyle writer, and over the past two decades, her work has appeared in Men’s Health, Playboy, WIRED, Marie Claire, and The Washington Post. She lives in Seattle with her partner and rescue dog.

WILL AUSTIN Photographer Home + Design DIY “I’m always up for a trip to the Skagit Valley, one of my favorite places in the world. Photographic opportunities abound in the area, but this is the first time I’ve had the chance to shoot such a beautiful greenhouse. The warm, sunny spring day was the icing on the cake.” (pg. 38) Will Austin’s award-winning photographic work has taken him around the world. Whether shooting from a saddle, helicopter seat or the dizzying height of a tower crane, Austin enjoys the adventure of capturing people doing what they love. He lives in the Seattle area with his wife and son, but hails from Colorado cowboy country.

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER OFFICE MANAGER DIRECTOR OF SALES BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Ellen Hiatt, Lee Lewis Husk, Joni Kabana, Kerry Newberry, Ryn Pfeuffer, Lauren Purdy, Ben Salmon, Jonathan Shipley, James Sinks, Jen Sotolongo, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Will Austin, Jackie Dodd, James Harnois, Ronald Hope, Reva Keller, Bradley Lanphear, Terry Manier, Andrew Peacock, Lara Swimmer

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JUNE | JULY 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11

FROM THE

EDITOR

WE WELCOME with the openest of arms the 2022 Outdoors Issue, after a trailing twelve months of climate anomalies—record heat, fires and a spring that brought more gloom than sunshine. Expelliarmus! Some welcome words we all haven’t heard in a while—live concerts. In this issue’s Trip Planner on page 80, we rediscover the live music scene mecca that is The Gorge, headlined by the Gorge Amphitheatre. Whether you’re camping at The Gorge or finding softer accommodations, this piece stages many options for a weekend of live music in a stunning setting. If you really want to reunite with natural elements, check out our Northwest Destination on page 84. Livingston, Montana, just east of Bozeman in southwestern Montana, is known as the state’s windiest city. It’s also one of its most spectacular, set in the Absaroka mountain range and home to some of Hollywood’s outdoorsiest actors. Two more pieces add the dimension of water to your outdoor adventures. We get your feet

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wet with our top kayak destinations on page 54 and define fun Washington coast adventures on page 74. Surfing, clam digging and hiking the Coast Trail are just a few of the ways to get into trouble this summer. Other senses are powerful in evoking the outdoors, too. Smell and taste come to the fore when you consider lavender for its bouquet and taste when incorporated into lavender lemon bars and picked rhubarb with lavender on page 32. In our features, we look at the plight of Washington megacrop—oysters. Environmental impacts are increasingly endangering one of our top seafood products, livelihoods and state identity with it. Turn to page 60 to read on. No better way to usher in the summer, however, than Shelburne Hotel’s Starvation Alley Cosmo, made with Starvation Alley cranberry liqueur, from Adrift Distillers and fruit from Starvation Alley Farms, both in Long Beach. If you can’t make it to the coast, you can certainly sip in its terroir.

1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/ in-focus photo by Maggie Ellis The Seattle Great Wheel at sunset.

TURE N E V AD AIL M #1889WASHINGTON Discover local inspiration daily by following us on Instagram @1889washington or on Facebook at www.facebook. com/1889Washington. Want to share what your Washington looks like? Tag us in your photos and videos or use #1889washington for a chance to be featured.

JUNE | JULY 2022

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

SAY WA? 16 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 34 MIND + BODY 42

pg. 28 Lavender’s superpowers explored—both as a calming aromatic flower and as a light note to sweet and savory dishes.

David L. Reamer

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 44

Looking to explore more? We’ve got more –

BIG TIME

say wa?

Tidbits + To-dos

Shae Joseph

written by Lauren Purdy

CALark your END AR

Molly Ray Parfums Immerse yourself in the art of fragrance right in the heart of downtown Seattle at Molly Ray Parfums. Ray showcases her vast knowledge of parfumerie from her studies as a Master Perfumers at the renowned Grasse Institute of Perfumery in Southern France, an institution known in the designer fashion world as a pipeline for the best design talent for luxury brands. After returning to Washington, Molly Ray opened her workshop and retail store with a focus on custom fragrances that are sustainably sourced and have minimal environmental impact. The front end of the shop serves as a retail shop while Ray hosts private workshops where customers can learn the technique behind crafting fragrance and deep diving into the profile behind each fragrance element, all while designing their own signature scent to keep. www.mollyrayparfums.com

CA mark LE yo ND ur AR Celebrate Syrah

Sundiata Black Arts Fest Explore the heritage of Seattle’s African community June 17-19 at the Seattle Center. Presented by the board of Festival Sundiata of Seattle’s African American Cultural Association, this family friendly exhibit honors the melting pot of cultures and ethnicities that encompass the city’s African American community. The festival line-up features a wide breadth of musicians, artists, workshops and local artisan vendors for a fully captivating celebration. Don’t miss this year’s impressive list of featured musical guests, which range from contemporary hip hop artist Wale to the classic 1960s funk band, The Bar Keys. www.festivalsundiata.org

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Big red enthusiasts, this is for you. Immerse yourself in social and educational wine festivities with Walla Walla Valley wineries at the Celebrate Syrah festival, featuring guest winemakers from the world’s leading wine regions and esteemed speakers all with a focus on this bold varietal July 14-17. Festival passes include the option to participate in rare vintage tastings, reserve a seat at intimate winemaker dinners as well as share the differences of the Walla Walla Valley with other leading wine regions around the world. www.wallawallawine. com/celebrate

say wa?

Blue Skies Bakery Born out of owner and baker Todd Biernacki’s love for bread, Blue Skies Bakery crafts artisan foods in the heart of the scenic Columbia River Gorge. After retiring from corporate life, this family run team is solely focused on making high quality breads and granolas, interfacing with local chefs and grocers, and building their community. Find Blue Skies Bakery’s prepared goods online or in natural grocers. www.blueskiesbakery.com

Island Thyme Husband and wife duo Chris and Eliza Morris curate their herbal skin and body care products from plants and herbs of the San Juans, often using botanicals grown just adjacent to their retail shop on Eastsounds’s Main Street. Offerings include body scrubs infused with lavender vanilla to aromatherapy oils that will leave you feeling relaxed and rejuvenated as an afternoon spent wandering along Orcas Island’s serene coast.

Bainbridge Distillers A veteran of the world of spirits and antique alcohol officiant, Master Distiller and proprietor Keith Barnes is a trailblazer in the Washington beverage scene producing 100 percent organic whiskies, vodkas and gins. Inspired by the spirits of the 1920s—which many craft spirit experts argue is superior to most produced now—Barnes set out to recreate the same quality of product by using the processes from that time, which includes avoiding any unnatural chemicals and sourcing local biodynamic grains. Most notable from his portfolio is the Bainbridge Yama Mizunara Cask Whiskey, the world’s only non-Japanese whisky to be aged exclusively in the extremely rare Japanese Mizunara oak to support Bainbridge Island Historical Society’s Yama Project that pays homage to the island’s Japanese heritage. www.bainbridgedistillers.com

www.islandthyme.com

Lumber Union Fiercely local and Emerald City-inspired, the Seattle based retailer Lumber Union offers functional streetwear and all-weather bags designed for the fashion conscious Pacific Northwest adventurer. Customer favorites include the unisex lightweight Discovery day bag and recycled polyester briefs, ideal for any walk along the Puget Sound or for a day in the city. Focused on sustainability, Luber Union partners with suppliers to deliver the lowest environmental impact possible in the creation of each of their products. In alliance with nonprofit American Forests, a portion of every Lumen Union purchase goes towards planting a tree in the U.S. www.lumberunion.com

JUNE | JULY 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

say wa?

Musician

A New Phase Seattle’s Jeremiah Moon brings his orchestral pop-folk songs to life

Inspired by artists such as Sufjan Stevens, cellist Jeremiah Moon was classically trained and then began making music of his own.

written by Ben Salmon FROM AN EARLY AGE, Jeremiah Moon was set up to play classical music, either for a living or as a lifelong leisure pursuit. His mother, a violinist, played with the local orchestra and taught violin students in their Colorado hometown. As parents do, she nudged her son into lessons of his own. “She knew how much joy she had gotten out of music and wanted to make sure that her kids were able to experience that as well, which I really appreciate,” he said. “She noticed pretty quickly that I had big hands and she said, ‘Alright, you’re going to be a cellist.’” Eventually, Moon went to college in Boston, where he studied music performance. But around the same time, he started connecting with pop and rock music in a way that he hadn’t with classical. He discovered bands like Grizzly Bear and Radiohead and artists like Sufjan Stevens, whose music brought together quiet folk songs, symphonic elements and a very sweet, gentle aesthetic that he found inspiring. “Playing classical music is wonderful, but man, you really have to love it to try to make a living at it, and I could tell that wasn’t going to be my path,” he said. “Plus, it just seemed more exciting to me to make something of my own. I loved all the (classical) music we were playing, but I knew there was something in my heart that wasn’t being fully expressed.” After college, Moon moved to Seattle, where he worked retail gigs, accompanied other musicians at their shows and generally lacked direction, he said. That’s when a friend challenged him to take himself more seriously as an artist and as a songwriter. “They encouraged me and told me that the things I was making were actually really special and worthwhile, and that if writing songs was going to make me happy, then I should give it a fair shake,” he said. “I really took that to heart, took a couple steps back and started dedicating regular time to it.” That decision led directly to a creative burst that produced the five songs on Moon’s new EP, Sputnik, a twenty-minute synthesis of pretty, airy melodies and orchestral elegance that recalls Stevens’ best work. Generally speaking, the songs on the EP are about isolation, connection, relationships and the distance between people,” Moon said. 18

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Listen on Spotify

“We don’t even understand ourselves fully most of the time, so that necessarily means that you can never really understand another person completely either,” he said. “We all just get little glimpses, and I think it’s really interesting to think about what that means, especially in the context of the modern world.”

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After the Blast by Eric Wagner has just been released in paperback.

Bibliophile

Blast from the Past An ecological adventure of surprises, hope amid the ashes of Mount St. Helens interview by Cathy Carroll

ECOLOGISTS THOUGHT IT would be years, or decades, for life to return to Mount St. Helens after it erupted in 1980, killing fifty-seven people, decimating hundreds of square miles of lush forests and wild rivers and sending up a plume of ash that blocked the sun for miles. A few weeks later, on a bright morning in June, intrepid forest scientist Jerry Franklin helicoptered into the blast and was stunned—finding animals skittering amid small plants bursting through the ash. Rather than being a dead zone, the mountain was very much alive. In After the Blast, Eric Wagner takes readers through the blast area and beyond, detailing the new ways of thinking about nature’s resilience, on a compelling journey hailed as an evocative, fun read beyond the ecological details. 20

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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What was one of the most memorable or surprising moments for you in researching this book? One of the most striking for me was waking at dawn in the Plains of Abraham in the early fall and watching the sun rise over Mount Adams to the east. Mount Adams blocked the sun for a while, so Mount St. Helens stood in a kind of illuminated shadow. But, before long, bright light started to creep down from its summit. The effect was breathtaking, as the mountain was slowly revealed. In an overarching sense, one of the more consistently surprising elements has been how much is still changing in the blast area. New species of plants are still sprouting up now, decades later. New birds are arriving, trees are creeping higher and higher up the slopes, and so on. To a human, forty-odd years since the 1980 eruption is a long time, but the landscape reminds me that it’s just a blink of the biological eye. When you visit Mount St. Helens these days, do you continue to find evidence of the discoveries that ecologists made about how life responds in the face of seemingly total devastation? I sure do! I started working on the book in 2015, and it amazes me how much the blast area has changed in just seven years. Paths I once walked with ease are now thick with vegetation. I’ve surprised bears noshing on huckleberries, and traversed ridges while keeping a watchful eye

on herds of mountain goats. Seeing these sorts of things reminds how, while Mount St. Helens is a singular place, it’s still very much a part of the world around it, and the presence of these animals is a sign of how the blast area is being stitched back into the larger environment. At the same time, I can only imagine what it would be like to see these changes as someone who has worked at Mount St. Helens since 1980. The book carries a tone of positivity, showing that life finds a way through the destruction of a volcanic eruption. In what way if any do you think these discoveries bolster strategies for hope in facing climate change? For me, one of the great insights to come from Mount St. Helens is just how creative and resourceful and resilient life can be. All sorts of plants and animals responded to the eruption in ways biologists did not expect at all, exhibiting previously unknown talents, if you will. The caveat, however, is that the post-eruption plant and animal community was not the same as the preeruption community. Things that survived had to make their way through a different world, adapting to harsh conditions, and some were better able to do that than others. But Mount St. Helens revealed to us the limits of our imagination in so many ways, and I guess I find hope in the putative existence of hitherto untapped capacities for change.

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food + drink

Beervana

Recipe: Beer Milkshake

Beer Milkshakes

• 1 pint of ice cream • 12 ounces of beer

written and photographed by Jackie Dodd

Add all ingredients to a blender, blend until smooth. Serve immediately.

What Washington beers to use and why you need to try them IN THE HEAT of the summer, nothing hits quite like ice cream—especially when you’re reluctant to turn on your oven but still crave dessert. Boozy, beerified milkshakes are indulgent and decadent, but also come together within minutes with no cooking skills required. In a state that’s the proud home of more than 400 craft breweries, as well as dozens of small-batch ice cream makers there is no better place to embark on this endeavor.

The roasty, malty flavors of a porter have always paired well with chocolate. Add in the beautiful tropical notes of one that’s mingled with coconut, as well as the creamy, sweet flavors of a rich chocolate ice cream and you may not be able to have chocolate ice cream without a coconut porter again. Alternative ice cream flavor: Mocha almond fudge Beer recommendation: Métier Brewing Black Stripe Coconut Porter

IPA + STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM

GOSE + RASPBERRY SORBET

Hops need to be mellowed a bit, throwing them something unquestionably sweet does the trick. A rich, creamy strawberry ice cream will work beautifully. The herbal flavors of the hops are a nice pairing with the flavors of strawberries bringing out their earthiness. Unlike the gose, this beast needs dairy. Be sure to steer clear of a sorbet.

These bold flavors need each other to produce an epic drinkable dessert. The beautiful saltysour flavors of a gose can stand up to the sweet-tart flavors of a raspberry sorbet. Make sure to use a true sorbet, the lack of dairy will give you the right tang.

Alternative ice cream flavor: Lemon Beer recommendation: Stoup Brewing Citra IPA

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Shelburne Hotel / SEAVIEW

Starvation Alley Cosmo 22

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

JUNE | JULY 2022

Alternative ice cream flavor: Lime sorbet Beer recommendation: Brick West Brewing Co. Get Right

• 2 oz vodka • 1/2 oz Starvation Alley Cranberry Liqueur (made from local berries) • 1 oz lime juice • 1 oz Combier • 1 oz simple syrup Shake and strain into coupe glass.

SALTED CARAMEL ICE CREAM + SCOTCH ALE This is a flavor combination that’ll surprise you. The deep, sweet, malty notes of nice Scotch ale are perfectly balanced with the rich, buttery flavors of salted caramel. You may need to make a double batch. Alternative ice cream flavor: Butter pecan Beer recommendation: Post Doc Brewing Kilty MacSporran

Illustrations: Allison Bye

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM + COCONUT PORTER

The absurdity of it all, but beer milkshakes are a delicious way to serve two passions at once.

Photos: Coro Foods

food + drink

CRAVINGS THAI FOOD It’s a cliche to say that this restaurant next to a hair salon on a busy street in North Spokane is a hidden gem, but it’s true. If you choose to sit in the tiny dining room, you’ll see a steady stream of customers picking up takeout and a staff that never stops moving. Take a bite of the green curry or the drunken noodles (everything on the menu earns its place) and you’ll understand why. 1006 E. FRANCIS AVE. SPOKANE www.phonthipstylethai.com

CINNAMON ROLLS A daughter of the beloved Oystercatcher restaurant in Coupeville on Whidbey Island, Little Red Hen sells the phenomenal bread that used to be available only through the restaurant. Now, with a storefront and identity of its own, Little Red Hen has the sought-after bread, plus serves breakfast Thursday through Monday. While everything Little Red Hen makes is top notch, their cinnamon rolls are extraordinary. Also of culinary best-in-class, the cardamom roll. 4 FRONT ST. NE COUPEVILLE www.littleredhenbakerywhidbey.com

ABOVE Coro owners Martinique Grigg, left, and Clara Veniard. AT RIGHT Coro offers a variety of artisan meat products, including sliced salami packs perfect for a picnic.

COCKTAILS

Gastronomy

Coro Artisan Meats written by Cara Strickland THERE ARE a few things that set Coro apart from other salami brands. First, it is, reportedly, the only one in the country that is woman-owned. Owners Clara Veniard and Martinique Grigg bought the well established business—then known as Salumi—in 2017. You can still visit the original deli in Pioneer Square, but now Coro’s meats are available nationwide both in grocery and specialty stores and online. Much care goes into creating each salami. It begins with high-quality, vegetarian-fed, ethically raised pork. The flavors range from the classics to subtle and beguiling new favorites like mole and lemongrass. Coro’s cures everything with natural ingredients (celery salt is a popular option) and then peels each salami by hand so you don’t have to mess with it. Beyond salami and other cured meats, you can also find sweet and savory spreads to spice up your charcuterie platter. 404 OCCIDENTAL AVE. S. SEATTLE SHIPPING AND RETAIL NATIONWIDE www.corofoods.com

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While you’re enjoying a seafood dinner with an Asian vibe (the chef also owns Wenatchee’s The Thai Restaurant), you might crave a cocktail. Even if you’re eating elsewhere, there’s no reason you can’t grab a seat at the bar and try one of the well-balanced signature cocktails on the menu, or the selection of classics. Try the Lavender Fog for an unexpected take on evening tea. 137 N. WENATCHEE AVE., SUITE 103 WENATCHEE www.atlasfare.com

ICE CREAM This family-owned spot is another venture from the people who brought us Walla Walla’s beloved Maple Counter Cafe—one of the go-to spots for breakfast downtown. Their dream of opening an ice cream shop came to fruition mid-pandemic, and not a moment too soon. Try a variety of dairy and vegan flavors (including specialty rotating ice creams). While you’ll find the classics here, consider new creative combinations such as honey lavender, earl grey or blueberry cardamom shortbread. You don’t have to be vegan to delight in passionfruit sorbet, German chocolate or lemon poppy seed flavors. 3 SOUTH COLVILLE STREET WALLA WALLA www.thepineconecreamery.com

BEST PLACES FOR

POPSICLES FANNIE’S ICE POPS Named for the owner’s great grandmother, Fannie, these pops celebrate her legacy as a fruit farmer in the Willamette Valley. Now Fannie’s great-granddaughter, Mandolyn, creates organic (as often as possible), vegan, mostly local frozen treats in flavors such as chocolate and avocado, lemonade and lavender, and cucumber, apple, mint and lime. If you see cream in the title, she’s using coconut milk, not dairy. Check the website for where to find these ice cold delights.

Photos: Brasserie Four

food + drink

SPOKANE AND VICINITY www.fanniesicepops.com

SEATTLE POPS Inspired by traditional Mexican paletas, these pops come in fruit and creamy versions. Some are available year-round, stocked in local grocery stores, and other locations, many are available only at one of the Seattle Area farmer’s markets, or the seasonally-open brick-and-mortar store in Wallingford. At the store, enjoy hand-dipped and -decorated pops for custom flavors. Keep an eye on the website and social media for monthly flavors. 1401 N. 45TH ST. SEATTLE www.seattlepops.com

WEST COAST POPS Enjoy a variety of homemade pops all year round at this Bellingham staple. Beyond the shop, local markets and other retail options, West Coast Pops also delivers for all of your popsicle needs. Choose from more than twenty flavors such as blackberry ginger, kiwi lemon and root beer float.

Dining

In downtown Walla Walla, Brasserie Four is a beautiful way to bring French cuisine and Walla Walla wine into your evening.

Brasserie Four written by Cara Strickland

This Sunnyside spot has been serving ice cream and paletas since it opened in 1989. While the owners began the business importing frozen treats from California, they have now made their own for many years, selling them from their retail store as well as to many other community outlets. The first young customers have grown up and are now bringing their own kids to experience delicious taste memories. If you’re in the neighborhood, stop in. Paletas aren’t the only thing on the menu, but you’ll need to get at least one.

EVEN BEFORE you sit down, you’ll want to pay a visit to the wine wall. You can find local bottles, of course, but there’s a wine here for every palette—a visual wine list. Bring your bottle back to your table and settle in for a relaxed, yet fine dining meal that brings French cuisine to downtown Walla Walla. As with so many French dishes, it’s about the details—excellent ingredients just seasoned enough to make them sing. This is the place to get the escargot, but the fish of the day will also be a contender– simply prepared in brown butter with its flavors intact. Pizza might seem like an odd choice for a restaurant like this, but it pairs wonderfully with a local beer, especially on the patio. There are many reasons throughout the menu that lead to reservations being recommended here. Catch lunch service on Friday and Saturdays, dinner every open day.

120 ROHMAN ST. SUNNYSIDE Paleteria La Nortena on Facebook

4 E. MAIN ST. WALLA WALLA www.brasseriefour.com

2010 N. STATE ST. BELLINGHAM www.westcoastpops.com

PALETERIA LA NORTENA

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Project is funded totally or in part, as applicable, by the Okanogan County Hotel/Motel Lodging Tax Fund

FREE MAPS AND GUIDES! Call 888.431.3080, Scan the QR Code, or visit OkanoganCountry.com to start planning your adventure today!

Farm to Table

For the Love of Lavender Follow your nose to radiant farms around the Sequim-Dungeness Valley written by Corinne Whiting

LAVENDER IS experiencing a resurgence in popularity, according to Rebecca Olson, the co-owner of Lavender Connection, a small, family-owned and operated farm in Sequim. This is happening as modern culture moves away from synthetics and toward more natural scents as perfumes, and as more folks return to using natural herbs and oils for home remedies. Lavender is making a return in the kitchen, too. Its most alluring attribute? Its versatility. “While most people have heard that the smell of lavender is good for helping you relax,” Olson said, “lavender can also be applied topically for a myriad of ailments. Lavender is an herb that smells good, looks beautiful, and can be eaten.”

Lavender has many uses as a calming scent, in dried bouquets and as a sensuous note in food.

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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David L. Reamer

farm to table

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Matthew Nash/Sequim Gazette

More than forty different species of lavender exist, and 400-plus known varieties. Contrary to popular thought, the product isn’t always its signature purple; it also can be white, pink, magenta, even yellow. Lavender essential oils have been used by humans for thousands of years, dating back to usages in mummification in ancient Egypt and for first aid care during Roman wars. Today folks use lavender essential oils to cure ailments from stress and anxiety to skin irritation, hair and scalp issues, nausea and migraines. Lavender Connection is one of nine members that belong to Sequim Lavender Experience, a co-op of agritourism lavender farms and gift shops. Located in the Olympic Peninsula’s SequimDungeness Valley, the group collectively aims to promote their products all year-long, with an emphasis on the summertime growing season that lasts from June through September. Because of Sequim’s location in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, the region gets significantly less rain than most of Western Washington. “This, plus our proximity to the ocean, and some well-draining sandy soil,” Olson said, “helps create a spectacular microclimate that is perfect for lavender.” The co-op formed when its members realized that, while most have heard of Sequim’s famous festival that happens the third weekend of July, many tourists didn’t realize they could visit the venues all summer-long. Eight farms open their doors from Memorial Day Weekend until Labor Day, and some for even later in the year. Lavender varieties bloom at different times, from late June through August. All co-op farms except Cedarbrook offer U-cut opportunities during the summer when the lavender is in bloom. “The best time to visit to see the fields in full bloom is the middle of July, when the latter half of the angustifolia bloom corresponds to the beginning of the intermedia bloom,” Olson said. This explains why the Sequim Lavender Weekend happens when it does; however, the middle of July is also the busiest time to stop by. For a more peaceful experience, visitors are encouraged to come in June or August, or on weekdays versus weekends. Each unique farm offers something special. Thanks to Lavender Connection’s forty-plus varieties, most of them available for U-cut (meaning the visitors gather products themselves, using scissors and a basket), their highlights include spectacular bouquets and exquisite photo ops of multi-colored fields. “We also have an essential oil ‘Aromatic Tasting Bar,’” Olson explained, “where visitors can smell eighteen different varieties of lavender essential oil and learn about the distillation process.” Fleurish Lavender of Lost Mountain has resident alpacas, in addition to a viewing garden that showcases 100 different kinds of lavender. And all summer-long, B&B Family Farm offers free farm tours during which farmers educate about growing, processing, cleaning and distilling lavender. Although Cedarbrook Lavender Farm is closed to visitors, its gift shop in downtown Sequim proves a prime spot to find local lavender gifts in any season. When it comes to baking or cooking with lavender, creativity is key. According to Olson, lavender pairs well with lemon, chocolate, vanilla and berry. It also can jazz up savory rubs or help dijon mustards (or dressings) stand out. “It likes to be the star,” she said,

Lavender Connection

farm to table

FROM TOP Lavender in bloom at Lavender Connection, a small, family-owned and operated farm in Sequim. The Olson family (from left, Susan, Rick, Rebecca and Doug) at Lavender Connection.

“so it's a great addition to otherwise simple flavors; sweet favorites are lavender vanilla ice cream, lavender shortbread and lavender brownies. You can create a simple syrup with the bud, and add it to basic cocktails, like lavender lemon drops or lavender mimosas. For non-alcoholic drinks, it's great with lemonade, tea (hot or iced) and hot chocolate.” Olson finds that, once the plants are established, they’re drought tolerant and easy to care for. “Humans and pollinators (bees and butterflies) love lavender,” she said, “and almost every other member of the animal kingdom does not. So they're deer resistant, rodent and rabbit repellent, and don't have issues with pests like most plants.” They can even be planted as a companion plant to help repel moths and other unwanted critters. Olson said, “Overall, the plants are beautiful, easy to grow and make your garden and landscaping smell heavenly. Visitors can download a free app (www.sequimlavender.org/ driving-guide) to select the Sequim Lavender Experience audio tour (free), or choose one to explore downtown Port Angeles ($0.99).

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Discover the culture, rich history & diverse landscapes along the Columbia River

Tamástslikt Cultural Institute Pendleton, OR Exit 216 on I-84 tamastslikt.org 541-429-7700

farm to table

Washington Recipes

Two Faces of Lavender Lavender Lemon Bars

SEATTLE / The Pastry Project • 1¼ cups granulated sugar, divided • 1⅔ cups all-purpose flour, divided • ¾ teaspoon salt • 1 tablespoon lavender, ground • 1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature • 3 large eggs • ⅔ cups lemon juice, freshly squeezed • Ube flavoring, as needed for color (optional) • Zest of one lemon • ½ cup powdered sugar, for dusting Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray and line an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with parchment paper. In a medium mixing bowl, combine ¼ cup sugar, 1 ⅓ cups flour, salt and ground lavender. Add butter and use your hands to rub the mixture together until you reach a coarse cornmeal consistency, and the mixture holds together when squeezed.

Sprinkle shortbread evenly across the baking pan, then press until you have a flat, even layer. Bake for 20 minutes. While shortbread is baking, prepare lemon filling. In a medium bowl, combine a cup of granulated sugar with ⅓ cups flour. Add the eggs, and whisk until smooth. Add lemon juice and zest and whisk until combined. Add just enough ube flavoring until you reach your desired lavender color. Once the shortbread has baked for 20 minutes, immediately pour the filling into the crust and bake for another 15 minutes. The lemon bars are done once the filling barely moves when jiggled. Allow to cool for 30 minutes, then cover and refrigerate until ready to enjoy. Bars take about two hours to cool down. Once chilled, remove lemon bars from the pan, dust with powdered sugar, and cut as desired. Keep refrigerated, and enjoy within one week.

Pickled Rhubarb with Lavender

LAKE FOREST PARK / The Local 104 Tony Vujovich

FOR THE BRINE • 1 quart rice vinegar • 1 pint water • 1 cup sugar FOR THE PICKLES • 2 pounds sliced rhubarb

32 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

• ½ of a lemon peel (use peeler so no pith) Cut a 6-by-6-inch square of cheesecloth. Place sachet ingredients inside, and tie with string to create the sachet. Place sachet in heavy-bottomed, 4-quart pot with brine ingredients. Bring to a hard boil. Place rhubarb and lemon peel in a heat resistant container, and pour in the hot brine and sachet. Refrigerate for 24 hours. Will keep for one month.

JUNE | JULY 2022

The Pastry Project

FOR THE SACHET • 1 teaspoon dried English lavender, or 2-3 fresh sprigs fresh English lavender • 1 teaspoon black pepper • 1 teaspoon coriander • 1 star anise

The Pastry Project of Seattle fashions lavender lemon bars for a sweet and citrusy dessert that works well with tea in the morning, too.

SOUL, InSPIRED

w w w . t rav ela s t or i a . c o m

home + design

A hot tub for twelve and a plunge pool became the unlikely features of a oddly shaped lot in Seattle.

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home + design

“We looked at it as an opportunity to do something unique,” said Chase Jarvis regarding the lot’s uncommon shape.

Urban Oasis A tricky Seattle lot becomes an outdoor retreat for entertaining and relaxing in the middle of the city

Photos: Lara Swimmer

written by Melissa Dalton WHEN KATE and Chase Jarvis found this contemporary house in Seattle’s Tangletown neighborhood, it had something their previous 1920s Craftsman did not: a rooftop deck. “The rooftop deck was probably one of the biggest selling points,” Kate said. Down below at street level, however, the yard had a lot less going for it. “We realized it was sort of useless,” Chase said. “It was good for letting pets out and that was about it. It wasn’t really interesting for humans.” Kate and Chase plopped down lawn chairs in the grass, but rarely used them. “It didn’t feel great to sit out there,” Kate said. Part of the problem was the lot’s uncommon shape: a triangle, with two street-facing sides, and a neighbor on the third. “You either love it because of its uniqueness or say, ‘Just give me a square lot,’” Chase said. “We looked at it as an opportunity to do something unique.” JUNE | JULY 2022

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Lara Swimmer

home + design

A key item in the couple’s wish list was a fire pit. It turned out to be their savior during Covid.

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Photos: Lara Swimmer

home + design

ABOVE Design can be the difference. This concrete entry was softened with built-in planters. The outdoor kitchen and dining area is nicely set off with unobtrusive fencing.

The couple compiled their ultimate outdoor wishlist fashioned after a perfect evening at home with friends and family, that starts with cocktails on the roof deck. “Then we asked, what would be other areas that would complement that?” Chase said. They added an outdoor kitchen and dining area that can seat a crowd, because they love to cook and host. For after the meal, a firepit for lounging. That only left one tricky area, a corner of the triangle with its own access to the house, for which Kate suggested “a little Zen spa area,” Chase said. Now, they just needed a team to realize their vision. “It’s such an unusual site—an acute triangle—and you don’t have too many of those in Seattle.” said architect Robert Hutchison, of Robert Hutchison Architecture, who alongside Dovetail General Contractors, turned the couple’s wishlist into reality. “But Kate and Chase saw a lot of opportunity with the property.” Hutchison started with a custom fence that encompasses the lot. Boulders lining the sidewalk were removed, replaced with a concrete retaining wall for the fence base, stepped back from the sidewalk so ground-level plantings soften the face, and topped by tight-knot cedar stained black. “The fence wraps everything together and defines all the spaces, giving them their individual qualities, as well as allowing them to be connected,” Hutchison said. The enclosure isn’t continuous around the whole site— “more like bookends,” Hutchison said. At the front door, the fence yields to additional custom concrete work, including a generous staircase with inset planters and a built-in Ipe bench beneath a tree. “I so wanted to have the space feel soft amidst all of these harder surfaces, which are still pretty natural, but the plant life really brings it alive and softens everything,” Kate said. The entry installation took care of the awkward grade from the front door to the sidewalk, and acts as the outdoor connection point between the spa area to the left, and the socially-oriented zones to the right.

The spa includes a custom concrete hot tub big enough to seat twelve: “I’ve never been in a hot tub and said, ‘I wish this was smaller,’” Chase said. Beside it, Hutchison created a cold plunge pool inserted into a streamlined Ipe deck, with a stone patio for meditation nearby. Lush, shade-tolerant plants are set against the fence. “We spent a lot of time doing mockups to make sure the fence had the right privacy that they were looking for,” said Hutchison. In the social space, an outdoor kitchen is tucked beneath a trellis, just outside the kitchen in the house. Sleek stainless-steel cooking components, including a fridge, prep sink, grill, and Big Green Egg, are built into a bar counter. Next a dining area, designated by a sail cloth overhead and cast concrete pavers below, which meet a large Ipe deck with the custom concrete firepit. A floating bench spans one side, tying the three zones together. The couple met Hutchison through local outfit Dovetail General Contractors, who led the install. “Kate and Chase have very good taste, and they really wanted to have a beautiful installation, which is why they brought Dovetail to the table,” Hutchison said. With in-house wood, metal, and concrete shops, Dovetail is known for its craftsmanship, which is well on display here, from the custom dining table, to the refinement of the architectural concrete, to the streamlined swoop of a metal handrail at the front stairs. Even just in the way the fence slats seem to hover over their concrete base: “It looks like a piece of art that’s surrounding the house rather than a wall,” Chase said. Re-siding the body of the house in black cedar further unified the existing home with the new landscape, and finished the job. Since wrapping in 2017, the new yard is a far cry from before, and during the pandemic, it was a blessing. “Going into Covid, it really kept us very sane to be able to sit out by the fire and just be outside of the house,” Kate said. “It’s better than we imagined during the design process,” Chase added. “We use all of these spaces all of the time.” JUNE | JULY 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 37

home + design

The Charley’s Greenhouse and Garden Heritage line, such as this greenhouse at Blackburn Gardens, is a classic Western Red Cedar option that’s made-to-order in Charley’s Mount Vernon facility.

ABOVE, FROM LEFT A Charley’s Greenhouse and Garden greenhouse at Blackburn Gardens in Mount Vernon. Seedlings, plants and tools fill the interior of the greenhouse.

DIY: Build a Backyard Greenhouse This Summer photography by Will Austin

IN 1973, CHARLEY YAW was designing and building portable buildings in Pine Lake, Washington, when a customer asked him to create a backyard greenhouse. Yaw agreed, and a business was born—Charley’s Greenhouse and Garden. It started two years later with a sixteen-page, black-and-white catalog, and has since expanded into an e-commerce site with a 14,000-square-foot facility and retail store in Mount Vernon, about an hour north of Seattle. If you’re looking for one of those pretty greenhouses that pop up on Pinterest, check out the three different kits on offer from Charley’s, all of which can be tweaked to a customer’s preferences. The Cross-Country Greenhouse, imported from Canada, has either a stone or wood base, and offers a variety of roof shapes, from steeper pitches that will shed snow, to lean-tos that can attach to the house. The Winter Gardenz Greenhouse from New Zealand is a more budget-conscious aluminum and glass model that looks sharply modern, while the Heritage line is a classic Western Red Cedar option that’s made-to-order in Charley’s Mount Vernon facility. “Since those are made in-house, we can put a lot of custom details into it, and really work with the customer to make them their dream greenhouse,” said Brian Bill, e-commerce and marketing analyst at Charley’s. The smallest model of the Cedar Heritage Greenhouse starts at $5,465 and is ideal for those who want to construct a backyard greenhouse themselves. “For the most part, it’s just a matter of having the hand tools,” Bill said. “Can you follow directions, and do you have the time to do it?” (The kits come with much more detailed instructions than seen here.) 38 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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home + design

Here are basic steps: PICK A SPOT Place your greenhouse where it gets direct sunlight about six hours in winter, with the longest side facing South, if possible. BUILD A FOUNDATION Greenhouse foundations are commonly made in one of three different ways: from treated wood, with a concrete wall, or atop a concrete slab. The first two will leave the floor exposed, to be covered with pea gravel, brick, or material of preference. FRAME AND GLAZING Assemble the framework for the walls, roof gables, and door frame. This can be done in a garage before being moved to the site. Then erect the frame and stabilize with cross ties. Prepare the glazing and install, starting with the walls before moving to the roof, and finish with trim pieces. LAST BITS Install the exhaust fan, tapping an electrician for any electrical connections, pop in the storm door, and get growing. “Given our climate in the Pacific Northwest, it’s not always the easiest to grow everything outside and leave it up to nature,” Bill said. “Having the space to grow what you want gives you a lot more agency. With a greenhouse, if you want some tropical fruit, you can grow some tropical fruit in Washington.”

JUNE | JULY 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

home + design

Sculptural Outdoor Chairs Our top deck picks—no cushions included, because we live in the Pacific Northwest The hanging wicker chair is a ’60s classic. Instead of hunting down a vintage version, check out this one from Serena & Lily. The shape makes for a fun pop floating beneath the eve, and the all-weather wicker frame is designed to repel water, mildew, and extreme sun. www.serenaandlily.com

The Magis Sam Son Chair may look like it escaped from a cartoon, but there’s a reason for its exaggerated shape: the thick, tubular frame is placed just so for back and arm support. Rotational-molded polyethylene makes it suitable for outdoor use, and in red, it’s a bit of a hoot. www.dwr.com

For a more modern look, go for the Palissade Lounge Chair from Hay. It’s constructed of welded steel that’s been powder-coated to a weatherproof finish, and available in three different colors. Options include a higher, slightly articulated back, or a lower lounge, but both will look good patio or poolside. www.us.hay.com

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mind + body

Tia Andaya comes from volleyball genes and is taking her athleticism to a higher level written by Jonathan Shipley VOLLEYBALL IS IN Tia Andaya’s blood. It’s a solid spike of it, to be sure. Her father, Mario Andaya, is the head volleyball coach at Central Washington University. He’s in his 27th season. He’s been named Great Northwest Athletic Conference Coach of the Year twice. He knows a thing or two about volleyball. Tia’s mother, Mario’s wife, Molly Rettkowski, was a former CWU volleyball standout. It’s a family whose blood, sweat, and tears have streaked the courts of Ellensburg for quite some time and with great success. “I get to experience this whole journey with my dad,” Andaya says, who plays on the CWU Wildcat team as a setter and outside hitter. “Some of the greatest memories I have are on the volleyball court and he is there on the court with me.” With a family obsessed with the game, it didn’t take long for Tia to take to the court. She started to play volleyball competitively when she was 8-yearsold. “I had always been around the game, my dad being a coach, but it wasn’t until I was a little older that I got to play on an organized team.” She got good. Playing for Ellensburg High School Bulldog volleyball team, she started to get the attention of colleges. The team was a solid one. They made it to the state tournament all four years of her high school career. “They were super fun experiences,” she said. She got better. She was a two-time Class 2A all-state selection. “Around 14, I started 42 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

to realize that I had the potential to play at the next level.” That took her to Gonzaga University. She played two years at Gonzaga. During her freshman year she played in 68 sets, finishing with 226 total assists with a 3.335 per set average. She got better. In her sophomore year she earned All-West Coast Conference (WCC) Honorable Mention and was also WCC AllAcademic Honorable Mention. She led the team with a 9.58 assists per set average to rank 10th all-time in assists per set in a single season. She transferred to Central to be coached by her dad. In the 2021 season, she earned American Volleyball Coaches Association (AVCA) Third Team All-American honors, earned unanimous Great Northwest Athletic Conference (GNAC) All-Conference and GNAC Newcomer of the Year honors, and also earned GNAC Offensive Player of the Week. All that’s special. More special? Making it to the NCAA Tournament. “It has been a goal of mine,” Andaya said, “ever since I watched the Final Four of the NCAA Tournament when I was young.” Andaya is still young and has her eyes on the future. Majoring in exercise science, she has plans of getting her Master’s degree. Maybe play overseas. “I love sand volleyball,” she said. “I would love to play sand after college. No matter what happens my goal is to be happy and inspired in the path that I do choose.” Bump. Set. Spike. JUNE | JULY 2022

Tia Andaya

Central Washington University Volleyball Player Age: 21 Born: Ellensburg Residence: Ellensburg

WORKOUT “We usually have a two- to two-and-ahalf hour practice and one hour of weights: strength and conditioning.”

NUTRITION “In the mornings, I grab something quick for the road like a yogurt and trail mix. I have a very busy class schedule, so I typically pack my lunches, a couple PB&Js, fruit, veggies, crackers, and some more trail mix. Dinner is where I eat a lot. I eat a lot of pasta because it is easy to make and you can make big portions. I also eat a lot of seafood like salmon and shrimp for dinner. My (not so) secret treat is microwave popcorn!! I eat probably three bags at least per week. Ha ha ha!”

INSPIRATIONS “I have a strong internal drive that makes me want to always get better and to be the best that I can be, something I learned from my family. I also am motivated by my family. I want to make them proud in all that I do.”

Jacob Thompson/Thompson Sports Photos

Always on the Ball

mind + body

Tia Andaya of Ellensburg is a model of persistence that fuels her passion for post-college play.

JUNE | JULY 2022

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artist in residence

The Solitude of Night A Washington photographer sees light and intrigue long into dark nights written by Ellen Hiatt

Jody Thompson, preservation and museum specialist with Western Gallery, had this to say about Robert Anthony DeFreest’s “Approaching Oblivion”: “The mysterious placement of lighting in tandem with the eerie, familiar, yellowish tones of foggy atmosphere create a sublime backdrop. The image itself then engulfs the visibility of the tracks, and with no clear division between foreground and background presents an unsettling composition. Essentially, the scene implies that there is only one pathway, and that is forward into the unknown.” AT RIGHT Photographer Robert Anthony DeFreest.

THE PHOTOGRAPHIC WORKS of Robert Anthony DeFreest are unsettling to some, not for what is seen, but rather the unseen. DeFreest sees “beautiful solitude.” The film photographer breaks out his camera and walks down abandoned railroad trestles just as other photographers have captured the sunset and are headed home. DeFreest is drawn to the night, the composition provided by a railroad track, the crooked lines of a leafless branch jutting out of the dark. Preservationist and museum specialist Jody Thompson was the curator for Hadrian Art Gallery in Edison when DeFreest showed his work in their Light Into the Darkness exhibit. “DeFreest’s work embodied that theme perfectly, and everyone at the gallery fell in love with his processes of long exposures captured in the middle of the night,” Thompson said. Where the moon, a street lamp, or a train’s lamp exposes shapes in the dark, DeFreest’s film captures it. DeFreest lugs his 35 mm and medium format Mamiya cameras across railroad trestles and over embankments dense with undergrowth. He scouts his locations by day, imagining what night will reveal. “If you can’t imagine it, you can’t create it,” DeFreest said. Where another artist might use digital editing to create what first comes to imagination, DeFreest uses light, multiple exposures, film, and patience. A lot of patience. 44

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He can spend four hours or more standing near one track, camera on a tripod, waiting for a car to drive by a nearby road, or a train to rumble through, casting its lamp across the night, or the fog to shift fleetingly, capturing the light of the moon and casting it across the landscape. And these things all occur in their own time, with DeFreest capturing them in multiple, long exposures on one micro-thin slice of film. “At night, my God, the magic … all this mood, all this atmosphere. Nobody is around,” DeFreest said. Things that can be bland during the day, he said, are magical at night. DeFreest always had a fascination with trains and he began his journey like so many photographers—capturing subject matter. He stumbled into night photography by luck, discovering himself on a railroad trestle after an evening of playing pool and filling his stomach at a Snohomish tavern with cheap dollar hot dogs and a soda. By the time he left for home, a bank of fog had rolled in, and he was mesmerized. He steadied his camera on a tripod and hoped for the best. What he saw once the film was developed sealed his artistic fate.

artist in residence

DeFreest’s “Spider Trestle” won 2018 Art Aloft Best of Show and First Place awards. “The title of the piece was inspired by the web hanging under the mile post on the left side of the trestle, which I came upon after walking the tracks for hours which started before dawn. The early morning mist drew me onward down the tracks, but the spider’s web glistening in the soft rays sang out to me. Yes, I am extremely fond of spiders, too,” DeFreest said.

DeFreest was always an admirer of the work of light casting a glow in Hopper’s 1942 “Nighthawk,” LEARN MORE Winston Link, a photographer who brilliantly capfog dominating so much of Friedrich’s works, and Robert Anthony DeFreest’s works can tured the life of the 1950s overlayed with the last of Victorian romanticist Grimshaw capitalizing on the be seen at The Guilded the Norfolk and Western Line steam locomotives. Gallery in Stanwood and moon or street lamp across a rain-drenched cobbleat www.robertanthony Link, though, brought along help and enormous stone street at night. defreest.com flash lights. DeFreest, with barely two nickels to rub DeFreest captures it all through the lens of a camtogether when he began his work, had to use what the environ- era, burned onto Cinestill film. ment provided. So he taught himself, experimenting with each “I like nuance. I like mood. I like atmosphere,” said DeFreshoot. He devoured books on the subject of photography, but est. It’s fitting those are the elements of composition he seeks to build into the frame. Not color. DeFreest, after all, is color not one shed light on his new direction. “What I wanted to do, I couldn’t find in any article. I had to blind. Yet he captures colors in a way that’s surprising to those of figure out how to do it. It just lead to this love affair,” DeFrewho can see it. For his part, he sees the beauty of composition, est said. For DeFreest, the trains are a draw, but the tracks pull him in of light, and of emotions expressed visually. “You take from something what you bring to it, I suppose,” for composition. He cites as inspiration the composition and mood in the works of painters from the 1700s forward: John At- said DeFreest. “What I am bringing to my work is that I love kinson Grimshaw, Edward Hopper and Casper David Freidrich. the night. I love negative space. It’s the things you don’t see that “These people nail something that’s on an emotional level,” I find as interesting as what’s highlighted in an image. That’s DeFreest said. And they all paint scenes of the night, a diner’s why I work.” JUNE | JULY 2022

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Jeriel Calamayan

STARTUP 48 MY WORKSPACE 50 GAME CHANGER 52

pg. 50 Efrem Fesaha, of Boon Boona coffee shops in Seattle and Renton, brings back the original coffee culture from its origin—Ethiopia.

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startup

Rendering: Eviation

Eviation is at the fore of the next-generation air travel, where planes are electrically powered.

Cracking the Code Innovators have created the first all-electric nine-seater aircraft written by Jonathan Shipley GRACE SLICK, the famed rock star of Jefferson Airplane, probably wasn’t thinking about all-electric airplanes when she penned “White Rabbit.” The psychedelic song, released in 1967 doesn’t contain undertones about climate change or sustainability, though the far-fling concept was prescient. The first all-electric passenger airplane, created by Eviation, a company based in Arlington, Washington, with an office in Israel, is named Alice because of White Rabbit. “Like any start-up, the team had many late nights working,” noted Gregory Davis, president and interim CEO of Eviation. “On one of those late nights the team was listening to Jefferson Airplane’s ‘White Rabbit.’ Someone suggested we call the plane Alice, and it stuck. It’s a nod to Lewis Carroll with a play on Alice in Wonderland. It’s a story of wonder, exploration and discovery.” Alice is aptly named. Reimagining regional travel and commuter flights, Alice is designed to carry nine passengers and two crew members. Its construction incorporates 95 percent composite material and is powered by two electric motors. It has zero carbon emissions. Alice also lowers the environmental impact of noise. Additionally, it has lower standard operating costs than conventional aircraft. Alice was designed to fly with today’s battery technology, which is also one of the biggest hurdles for electric aircraft. The weight of the battery is something to contend with. At 8,200 pounds, the batteries account for 60 percent of the aircraft take-off weight. It 48

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will be able to fly for about an hour and about 440 nautical miles. Alice has a maximum cruise speed of around 287 miles per hour. Future advancements in battery technology will support electric flights to go longer distances with less charges needed. “Creating a world first is not without its challenges,” Davis conceded. “We have experienced profound learnings with the energy storage system, for example.” The company plans on having mobile charging vehicles to recharge the aircraft. Each hour of flight time is expected to require a charging time of thirty minutes. “This is the first time this type of energy storage system has been integrated into a large-scale aircraft,” said Davis. Energy is not something the organization has lacked. Eviation was founded in 2015 by Omer Bar-Yohay, Omri Regev and Aviv Tzidon. Their goal: to become the first-to-market manufacturer of an all-electric, nine-seater, two-pilot commuter propulsion aircraft. With the conception of Alice, mission successful. With certification targeted for 2024, the company recently announced that the shipping company DHL has ordered twelve of the eCargo versions of Alice. A prototype of the aircraft, which debuted in 2019, has been going through taxi tests since December 2021. Alice’s inaugural flight is imminent, though no specific date has been set yet. The flight industry as a whole is eagerly looking at alternatives to fossil fuels. Global aviation is one of the largest polluters to our atmosphere. It produces roughly 915 million tons of carbon dioxide a year. Indeed, the airline industry alone makes around 2 percent of human-induced carbon dioxide emissions. We need more Alices. For Eviation, then, it’s more than just creating a technological wonder and getting it to market. “Our mission is changing the way people travel regionally through affordable, sustainable and quiet aviation,” Davis said. “We’re focused on building beautiful airplanes that are sustainable environmentally, financially and socially.”

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Jeriel Calamayan

my workspace

We all know that coffee brings out the community in us, from standing around the office break room coffee pot hearing the latest gossip to intimate discussions over a table for two in a cafe. In some cultures, however, drinking coffee is worthy of ceremony at the next level. In Eastern Africa, namely in Ethiopia and Eritrea where claims of being the birthplace of coffee are widely believed, the act of drinking coffee is as important as how the beans are roasted and ground. Efrem Fesaha, who grew up in Seattle, was so taken by the community aspect of coffee drinking within his Eritrean heritage culture he decided to introduce this practice to his Seattle neighborhood.

Communal Coffee

Re-creating the original coffee culture from East Africa in Seattle written by Joni Kabana 50

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Undeterred by bank loan rejections, Fesaha started importing raw green coffee beans from Ethiopia to sell to East African communities in the United States. The demand became so great that it enabled him to fund his own testing of roasting techniques. It was not long before his coffee shop and roastery Boon Boona (meaning “coffee” in East African languages) was off and running.

my workspace

Boon Boona coffee shops in Seattle and Renton celebrate inclusivity and diversity. Efrem sees community as a necessity. “Back in the village, it’s how things function as many hands are needed and it is how we practice selflessness and support one another,” he said, “It’s a beautiful human experience, and I love expressing it.”

Fesaha loves to tell customers the origin story of coffee that began in the Ethiopian village of Kaffa, where the word “coffee” originated. He is especially fond of sharing the ancient East African roasting and brewing techniques, practiced long before the rise of espresso machines, using a pan over open fire and jebena (clay pot).

Photos: Jeriel Calamayan

Boon Boona sources specialty coffees from various East African countries, most often from Ethiopia, Rwanda and Burundi. Fesaha is delighted to see the coffee culture in the U.S. growing and people are becoming more aware of coffee origins, roast profiles and brewing methods. Most of all, his deep love for diverse community and human interaction drive his desire to remain a steadfast presence in this industry.

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Nicole Aguado

game changer

Tunnel #45 along Rock Lake on the Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail.

Connecting Washington The Palouse to Cascades Trail Coalition has worked to bridge the state by trail written by James Sinks A ROAD LESS TRAVELED is about to get a little more traffic. Meandering across the backcountry of Eastern Washington from the Idaho stateline to Snoqualmie Pass, a little-known trail follows a former railroad right-of-way between farming communities, across trestles and through a half-dozen tunnels, including a 2.3-miler. But at roughly the halfway point loomed a major roadblock to hikers, bikers and horseback riders who actually trek it: the Columbia River. The former Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad—known as the Milwaukee Roads—went bankrupt in 1979, and much of the 289-mile stretch eventually ended in state control. Once called the John Wayne Trail despite the fact John Wayne had nothing to do with it, the route was formally renamed to the Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail in 2016. 52 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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This spring, the Columbia River roadblock was eliminated with the completed retrofit of the Beverly Railroad Bridge, a historicdesignated steel span that now has sidewalks and railings. The 3,052-foot-long bridge northwest of Hanford allows users to avoid what was a 150-mile detour to connect on the other side. The easier passage and associated publicity is expected to attract more people, said Fred Wert, a longtime rails-to-trails advocate and board chair of the nonprofit Palouse to Cascades Trail Coalition, which knits together thirteen organizations—such as railroad and bicycle clubs—that partner to develop trail facilities, reduce detours and make the trek more accessible. Of course, when he said more users, Wert wasn’t anticipating a cavalcade. “It’s not at all busy out there, and there’s not much in the way of places to stay or eat,” he said. “That’s why we call it an adventure trail.” The association was formed in 2016 to promote the trail, and also to do things the park department can’t, like lobby to protect the trail and advocate to refurbish deserted depots. The coalition pays for trail signage and also partners with the former whistlestop communities along the route on projects such as water fountains and a new campground in Ralston, a farming outpost 70 miles southwest of Spokane. The Beverly Bridge project, with a price tag of $5.5 million, got an early nudge when the coalition asked the Department of Archaeology and Historic Preservation to finance an engineering study, Wert said. When the governor and 600 people showed up for the opening ceremony in the middle of nowhere, it showed a growing understanding of the trail’s significance, he said. “The enthusiasm for this trail and the commitment to it was demonstrated that day, “ he said. “It’s been invisible for many years.” The route is no longer used by trains except for a roughly 35mile chunk near the Idaho border that still houses a functioning short line. Elsewhere, the trail surface is mostly packed gravel or rocky ballast, and none is paved, Wert said. It can be accessed from multiple trailheads along the route for day trips or longer jaunts. The most popular segment is on the west end, which is closest to the Seattle area and also includes the longest rail trail tunnel on the globe, a 2.3-mile section that is open from May through October (The doors are closed in the winter so people don’t get pelted by falling icicles inside). You’ll need a light and warm clothes no matter what it’s like outside. Other organizations are working to connect from the Cascade terminus to other trails west to the Pacific. The prospect of a cross-state route that would tie to other trails in other states thrills the national Rails to Trails Conservancy. Converting old rail lines to trails is nothing new for Wert. He wrote a now-out-of-print book on rails-to-trails in the 1990s, and has consulted on projects across the West. He is also unabashedly proud of the Palouse to Cascades stretch and the coalition’s role in helping to make it more viable. “It’s unique and so quiet,” he said. “Here’s an opportunity to do something you can’t do anywhere else.”

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Encounter 12 miles of uninterrupted paddling on Lake Crescent on the Olympic Peninsula. (photo: Marc Muench/ TandemStock.com)

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Washington’s

Kayaking Destinations SECRET STASHES NEAR OLYMPIA AND REMOTE LAKES IN THE CASCADES ARE ON YOUR ITINERARY written by Ryn Pfeuffer THERE IS NO better way to experience a warm summer day in the Pacific Northwest than by paddling along one of the many stunning waterways in the region. Whether you are in and around Gull Harbor Inlet, out on Lake Crescent, or along the rocky shoreline of Orcas Island, Washington state is full of wonder and beauty on the water. Once you’ve picked a destination, it’s time to book a kayak rental—unless you have your own. Most places offer rentals by the hour, half-day or full-day for increasing levels of ambition. When you have basic logistics sorted out, get ready to see lots of natural beauty while getting a low-impact workout. This beautiful

state offers everything from rugged coastlines and crashing waves to lush rainforests and sparkling lakes. Despite all the outdoor recreation hype in the Pacific Northwest, there are plenty of ways to get your cardio that don’t require hiking boots. As with any adventure sport, kayaking can never be totally safe. So always wear a life jacket—it’s one of the most effective pieces of safety gear in a boat. But it only works if you wear it. Whether you’re curious about kayaking and could use a guided assist or feel confident going out with our own equipment, here are five places in Washington you’ll want to explore on the water.

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Boston Harbor is a great launching point from Olympia. (photo: Experience Olympia)

Boston Harbor

If you’re visiting Olympia and want to get on the water, one of the area’s best-kept secrets is a kayak from Boston Harbor (about 6 miles north of downtown) over to Hope Island State Park. Hope Island is accessible only by boat, making it the perfect destination for those looking for solitude in natural beauty on a protected island. The park offers hiking trails and a 1.5-mile stretch of private shoreline for walking, tide pool watching or just relaxing. It’s also a hot spot for birdwatching, clam digging and mushroom foraging. An easier paddle is from Boston Harbor is to Gull Harbor Inlet. Located between Priest Point (recently renamed Squaxin Park to honor the Squaxin Island Tribe) and Burfoot Parks, the inlet is accessed by paddling through two sand bars. Wildlife nerds will rejoice with common sightings of deer, eagles, seals and blue herons. If you want information on free weekly kayak trips, including paddles to Hope Island, the South Sound Area Kayakers Club is a great resource: www.ssak.hctc.com. GO: Boston Harbor Marina (312 73rd Ave. NE, Olympia; 360.357.5670) rents sit-on-top kayaks for $25 for a single, $40 for a double for the ﬁrst two hours. There also are sit inside (Eddyline) kayak, sailboat, powerboat rentals, and drinks, snacks, sandwiches and maps of the Puget Sound South for sale.

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ORCAS ISLAND

Point Doughty

The most rugged of the four major San Juan Islands, Orcas Island, is a kayaker’s dream with its bluffs, bays, and protected coves—especially if you want to see wildlife. While paddling, you might see seals, orcas, bald eagles, porpoises, minke or humpback whales. The area is also home to more than 300 bird species. The San Juans, an archipelago of more than 170 named islands, are known for their sometimes-strong tidal currents. As a result, beginner paddlers will want to stick close to the shore or book an organized tour. During the summer months,

GO: Outer Island Excursions (120 Sucia Drive, Eastsound; 360.376.3711). Trips depart at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Adults $79; kids 8 and up, $45.

Dana Halferty/San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau

OLYMPIA

temperatures are comfortable around 70 degrees. One of the best places to see starfish, kelp forests, anemones, and other wildlife, is in the calm waters off Point Doughty, especially during low tide. You may see young salmon—just inches long—migrate from rivers across the Salish Sea through the shoreline habitats of the island. Bring your own equipment and drop into the water at North Beach Public Access point or book a tour with Outer Island Excursions. The three-hour excursion leaves from Smuggler’s Villa Resort and skirts the north side of Orcas Island before landing at Point Doughty State Park. What makes this trip special is that the park is accessible only via kayak, canoe or rowboat. Once parked, kayakers are treated to a beautiful nature walk and views of Mt. Baker and nearby islands. For more experienced paddlers, a fullday tour of Sucia Island is available.

* INSIDER TIP: If you want to see orcas but can’t get out on the water, head to Lime Kiln State Park, a 36-acre day-use park on San Juan Island. It’s considered one of the best land-based spots for whale watching in the world. May through September are your best bet for sightings.

Paddling in the San Juan Islands is a kayaker’s dream. (photo: Dana Halferty/San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau)

PORT GAMBLE

Port Gamble Bay

If you’re new to kayaking, Port Gamble is a fun, peaceful, and drop-dead gorgeous place to paddle— especially on a beautiful, blue-sky summer day in the Pacific Northwest. A quick twenty-minute drive from the Kingston Ferry Dock, it serves up incredible views of the snow-capped Olympic Mountains, as well as marine wildlife galore. It’s not uncommon to see resident harbor seals and visiting porpoises in these waters. Paddle in the bay or to Foulweather Bluff. Or you can head toward Hood Head in North Hood Canal. Shine Tidelands State Park and Bywater Bay are in near-pristine condition, and you’ll frequently see people out clamming and wandering the beach. There are about 5,000 feet of tideland between the Hood Canal Bridge and the sand spit on Hood Head, so if you’re up for an adventure, this area offers no shortage to explore. GO: Olympic Outdoor Center (32379 N. Rainier Ave., Port Gamble; 360.297.4659). Single kayak hourly rentals start at $20/hour; doubles at $28. Perhaps the most wildlife-abundant paddle is at Point Doughty from Orcas Island. (photos, clockwise from top left: Patrick McEvoy, Sofia Prado, San Juan Excursions, Patrick McEvoy)

Paddling Port Gamble Bay brings big views of the Olympic Range.

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Get away to warmer climes and Lake Wenatchee surrounded by the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. (photo: Icicle TV) Lake Crescent offers a zen experience distinct from others. (photo: Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau)

PORT ANGELES

Lake Crescent

Behold the breathtaking glacier blue waters of this 12-mile-long beauty, often lauded as the shining gem of the Olympic National Forest. These glacially-carved pristine waters located in the heart of the Olympic Peninsula offer kayaking adventurers some of the most gorgeous views of nature. Rent kayaks from Lake Crescent Lodge and enter the 624-foot-deep and crystal waters of Lake Crescent. Boaters have paddled from this site since 1916. From your rental, you can fish, paddle adjacent to the Spruce Railroad Trail to the deeply gorged Devil’s Punchbowl, pull up to a rocky beach for a picnic break, and take in

views of Storm King, Pyramid Peak and the Sourdough Mountains. Or book a group or private guided kayak tour through Adventures Through Kayaking. Keep your eyes peeled for deer, salamanders, bald eagles and other bird sightings. After a paddle around the lake, explore the nearby hiking trails. The aforementioned Spruce Railroad Trail is a popular pick. It’s accessed from East Beach/ Piedmont Road (east trailhead) or Camp David Jr. Road (west trailhead). GO: Lake Crescent Lodge offers several options for kayak rentals. Weather permitting, single kayaks ($55), tandem kayaks ($75), canoes, and paddleboards are available to rent from 8 a.m.; the last rental goes out at 3 p.m. Group kayak tours with Adventures Through Kayaking start at $79 per person.

Pair your paddle trip with hikes and cycling along the Spruce Railroad Trail. (photos, from left: Ronald Hope, Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau)

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Located just two hours from Seattle, Lake Wenatchee offers beginner kayakers a memorable experience. Relax on the beach at Lake Wenatchee. (photo: Icicle TV)

LEAVENWORTH

Lake Wenatchee Located just two hours from Seattle, Lake Wenatchee offers beginner kayakers a memorable experience. Set in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, this glacially carved and glacially fed lake reflects mirror-like views of Dirtyface Mountain to the north and Nason Ridge to the south. During the early migrations of indigenous people, tribes would fish along the lake’s shores. The lake is still a popular spot for sport anglers seeking sockeye salmon. Head out from one of the several launch sites. The largest is located at the south campground on the eastern side of the lake; there’s another at the smaller Glacier View Campground on the southwestern side of the lake. When you’re done for the day, soak up the day’s last rays on the beach. Grab a six-pack from Icicle Brewing Company for the post-paddle festivities. During the summer, sun, friends and an ice-cold beer are the holy trinity of a good time. GO: Leavenworth Outdoor Center (321 9th St., Leavenworth; 509.548.8823). Weekday kayak rentals start at $40; weekend rentals, $45. Rentals are weather dependent— it’s best to call ahead to confirm availability.

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Oysters are an enormous crop for the state of Washington and constantly in peril due to climate and pandemic crises.

THE

FUTURE OF

OYSTERS Oyster Farming: a resilient industry overcomes big obstacles

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Reva Keller

written by Lee Lewis Husk

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ome gather ‘round people. Wherever you roam. And admit that the waters. Around you have grown. And accept it that soon. You’ll be drenched to the bone. If your time to you is worth savin’. And you better start swimmin’. Or you’ll sink like a stone. For the times they are a-changin’.”

Bob Dylan wasn’t thinking about oyster farmers when he wrote that song in 1964 but the anthem foreshadows changing times ahead. Since then, scientists have shown that the oceans absorb about one-third of carbon dioxide emissions from fossil fuels, which reduce pH levels causing seawater to become more acidic—a problem evident in many ways. Oysters, a foundational species, started flashing warning signs in the early 2000s. “Back around 2007, oyster seed in production in hatcheries was collapsing,” recalled Bill Dewey, director of public affairs at Taylor Shellfish, the largest producer of farmed shellfish in Washington with one of the largest oyster hatcheries in the country. “It took us a while to sort it out,” he said. “Scientists from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and from the University of Washington and

Oregon State University helped us come to understand that the changing carbonate levels in seawater weren’t enough for baby oysters to build shells. “We had a real crisis in 2008 and ’09. We were the first industry frankly to be impacted by ocean acidification and know it,” he said, carrying the message to audiences all over the world about Washington’s experience, including at the United Nations. Oceanographers had more unwelcome news—the acidified water that was decimating oyster larvae was actually thirty to fifty years old. It comes from deep Pacific ocean currents that upwell along Washington’s shores. Even if the world stopped burning fossil fuels today, the situation would get worse as more deep-water surfaced in coming decades. It was a sobering message, Dewey recalled. JUNE | JULY 2022

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Oyster growers from Samish Bay to Willapa Bay realized that survival of the industry would hinge on adapting and mitigating the effects of a polluted ocean. They couldn’t decarbonize water offshore, but they could innovate new systems in the hatcheries to help oyster seed (larvae) survive by manipulating pH levels at a critical phase of shell growth. Success came within five years, returning production of oyster larvae to pre-crisis levels. Now efforts are focused on finding ways to mitigate and adapt to ever-worsening carbon pollution and the Pacific ocean pipeline coming up. One approach is growing in bays where “lots of eelgrass that suck up CO2 provide a natural refuge or co-culture seaweed with their oyster crops,” Dewey said. Other innovations being considered by farmers and scientists are genetic studies to find and breed oyster species that can tolerate changing ocean conditions.

Native shrimp threaten Willapa Bay oysters At about the same time ocean acidification alarm bells were ringing, another destructive force surfaced in Willapa Bay in southwest Washington. The bay’s mudflats have 10,000 acres in shellfish cultivation, and along with Grays Harbor, represent the single largest growing area in the U.S., contributing 25 percent of the oysters in the marketplace. Generations of families have farmed oysters in this bay using traditional methods of placing oysters loosely on the mudflats and harvesting them at three or four years of age—all by hand. But hidden deep within the mudflats is a burrowing shrimp considered a pest by oyster farmers. The Pacific oyster, the nonnative species that dominates shellfish 62 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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farming, competes for the same habitat where native shrimp dig meter-deep holes and stir up the sand, destabilizing the bottom. Bottom-grown oysters sink into the muck created by the shrimp and suffocate. The industry has a long history of using pesticides to limit burrowing shrimp, but those measures were halted in 2015 after the public and regulatory agencies cried foul about health and environmental impacts on Willapa Bay estuaries, among the cleanest and most pristine on earth. “Now there’s a move toward less toxic, low-impact control measures,” said David Beugli, executive director of the Willapa Grays Harbor Growers Association. He noted that a coalition of shellfish growers, researchers and government agencies have banded together to create an integrated pest management (IPM) plan. “The group isn’t trying to eradicate a species that belongs in the bay,” he said, “but on how to farm oysters while controlling burrowing shrimp numbers.” Studies are underway to monitor shrimp populations and identify new tools responsive to controlling shrimp. “The IPM group has come together and is making good strides with a lot of innovative ideas and research,” Beugli said.

Heat domes, burrowing shrimp, lawsuits & Covid If existential threats aren’t scary enough, the shellfish farmers of Washington have come through several recent challenges. In June 2021, a heat dome baked the Pacific Northwest. Seattle temperatures climbed above 100 degrees three days in a row. Some Pacific and Olympia oysters initially survived the heat but died in subsequent days.

Terry Manier

Oysters recovered from near colony collapse after ocean acidification halted the growth of spats’ shells.

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Wild oysters have been part of the human diet for thousands of years. In the Pacific Northwest, oysters were part of native culture as evidenced by piles of discarded shells that archeologists have dated to 4,000 years ago.

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Regulatory constraints have affected shellfish growers, most recently from a lawsuit brought against the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers by the conservation groups to limit expansion of aquaculture in Puget Sound. The Army Corp lost the lawsuit related to a programmatic general permit that allowed all Washington shellfish farms to be efficiently approved under a single permit. The judge ruled that the general permit didn’t meet clean water and environmental standards. “The result was that virtually all farmers needed to reapply for individual Army Corp permits,” said Dan Tonnes, regional aquaculture coordinator for NOAA fisheries for Oregon and Washington. “The approximately 700 applications that went to the Army Corp within a few months caused a great deal of uncertainty. They’ve done the best they can and added staff, but two years later, there’s still a small backlog of unissued permits.” The court decision allowed farms to continue with maintenance and some harvesting but didn’t allow them to reseed until permits were issued. The silver lining according to Taylor Shellfish’s Dewey, who has his own shellfish farm in Samish Bay, was that the new permit would be good for fifteen years, giving him regulatory certainty until 2036. And then there was Covid and major market disruptions when consumers stayed out of restaurants and oyster bars. Dewey said Taylor’s business was heavily invested in food service and paid the price. It had 700 employees in December 2019, but when markets in China collapsed and restaurants shut down, the shellfish giant was reduced to 175 employees by April 2020. “It rocked the ship big time,” he lamented. “It was hard on the Taylor family who laid off people who had worked for the company for thirty years. “The PPP loans let us bring people back at a critical time,” he said. Consumers shifted to buying seafood at markets and Costco, and by the end of July 2020, the company had recovered 75% of its previous business and 100% by the end of the year. The Taylor family mechanized what it could and now has 550 people back at work with the same level of production as pre-Covid. “Things have pretty well recovered for us,” Dewey said. “Restaurants are back, demand is strong, and people are cooking more shellfish at home.”

The only native oyster on the West Coast, the slowgrowing Olympia, nearly vanished in the early twentieth century from overharvesting and other environmental impacts due to increasing settlement in coastal areas. The faster-growing Pacific oyster from southeast Asia was introduced in the 1920s and became the dominant farmed oyster in Puget Sound. “Pacific oysters are a sustainable source of protein that doesn’t require any food or water inputs to grow,” said Molly Bogeberg, marine conservation manager with The Nature Conservancy in Washington. All oysters are bivalve mollusks that filter water, providing water quality benefits. A healthy adult oyster can filter up to fifty gallons of water a day and in doing so, remove pollutants and excess nutrients like nitrogen runoff from terrestrial farms. “Shellfish farmers have also been helpful to scientists, helping them better understand the impacts of ocean acidification,” she said. For the past two years, Bogeberg has been helping to coordinate the Supporting Oyster Aquaculture and Restoration (SOAR) project in collaboration with the Pew Charitable Trust, NOAA and the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The goal of the national program was to support shellfish growers during the pandemic as sales vanished while also supporting native oyster restoration. In Washington, more than 72,000 unsold Olympia oysters were purchased from shellfish farmers and transferred to restoration sites managed either by a tribe or shellfish farmer, bolstering the local native seed stocks. Bogeberg feels optimistic about the future of the industry. “Shellfish growers understand how the environment is changing and are working with researchers to make their industry more resilient and aware of climate change,” she said.

Native oyster: the comeback kid Wild oysters have been part of the human diet for thousands of years. In the Pacific Northwest, oysters were part of native culture as evidenced by piles of discarded shells that archeologists have dated to 4,000 years ago. JUNE | JULY 2022

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Float Your Boat

written by Hallie Glynn and Kerry Newberry LOCATED AT THE northeastern tip of the Olympic Peninsula on the Puget Sound in Washington, Port Townsend is one of only three Victorian Seaports in the United States. The charming town has two National Historic Landmark Districts and is home to the Northwest Maritime Center & Wooden Boat Foundation. The Center’s mission is “to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery.” The longstanding community hub connects people to the sea through a variety of youth and adult programs from sailing and rowing to family boatbuilding and classic and wooden boat regattas. The most popular and largest program is the internationally renowned Wooden Boat Festival, a three-day event that features more than 300 wooden vessels, dozens of indoor and outdoor presentations, and thousands of wooden boat experts and enthusiasts. Mark your calendars for the 46th annual Wooden Boat Festival on September 9-11, 2022. Additional photos capture the riveting Race to Alaska—an annual competition held each summer that’s like the Iditarod, but on a boat. Seafaring adventurers either row, paddle or sail the 750 miles from Port Townsend to Ketchikan without the help of any engine. If you get there first, you win $10,000. The race is the first of its kind and North America’s longest human and wind powered race. In 2019, forty-five teams were accepted and twenty-five finished.

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AT LEFT Point Hudson becomes full of gorgeous wooden boats in all shapes and sizes during the Wooden Boat Festival. Festival-goers love exploring the docks where they can chat with the boat owners, reconnect with old friends and learn about the craftsmanship and stewardship that goes into owning and maintaining a wooden boat. (photo: Mitchel Osborne) ABOVE, TOP Wooden Boat Festival is for the entire family—kids of all ages engage in boatbuilding and other hands-on activities in Kids’ Cove at the festival. (photo: Jan Hein) ABOVE, BOTTOM One of the most fascinating aspects of the Wooden Boat Festival comes in the form of the historic wooden boats that attend—from small dinghies and rowboats all the way to tall ships. Martha is a majestic, 100-yearold schooner that attends each year. (photo: Jan Hein)

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In 2018, Team Sail Like a Girl took first place in the Race to Alaska and was also the first female captain to win and the first all-female crew. Sail Like a Girl is known for “using fame for good” and shortly after taking first place started programs for women and girls to develop leadership skills and empower women. (photo: Katrina Zoe Norbom) AT LEFT, TOP Dameon Colbry and Leigh Dorsey from Belfast, Maine. Choosing a muscle-only vessel meant the race wasn’t about the win but overcoming the challenge of racing to Alaska. (photo: Drew Malcolm) AT LEFT, CENTER Henry Veitenhans, at 16, is the youngest captain to race to Alaska. A second-generation Alaska fisherman, he built his aluminum boat, a Sharpie, with his father and made the masts from his neighbor’s trees. He has completed the Race to Alaska twice. (photo: Liv von Oelreich) AT LEFT, BOTTOM Perennial favorite, Team Pear Shaped Racing has competed in Race to Alaska three times and has yet to take first place. Team members Guy Rittger, Tom Kassberg and Duncan Gladman are said to embody the ethos of R2AK: adventure seekers out to test their personal limits. (photo: Drew Malcolm)

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 72 ADVENTURE 74 LODGING 78 TRIP PLANNER 80

pg. 74 Hike, surf and clam your way around the Washington Coast this summer.

James Harnois

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84

Looking for endless miles of scenic trails in year-round sunshine? Yeah, we’ve got that.

We’ve got more cool.

VisitTri-Cities.com

Sound the Alarm

There’s glass-blowing in Langley written by Joni Kabana WHAT IS IT about fine art glass that makes us both fear touching it and feel a desire to immerse ourselves in it? Let’s admit it, glass-blowing is mind-blowing. Glass artist Callahan Campbell McVay’s artistic inclinations were apparent from his earliest days. At the age of 5, he picked up a family chainsaw and began carving wood sculptures, which were sold at state fairs. While attending an alternative high school in Everett, he began working with stained glass and by the age of 14, his talent for creating glass art set him on a path that he has been on ever since. McVay studied in various studios such as the Dick Marquis Studio with John Legett and at Washington locations such as The Pilchuck Glass Studio in Stanwood and the Pratt Fine Art Center in Seattle. He then set out to explore glass studios across the globe, studying color, form and technique. Garnering inspiration from the natural world around him, McVay’s luminous pieces reflect not only light but explosive color and form. As his work grew in popularity and he was commissioned to create private and corporate art pieces, he needed a larger studio space. In July 2009, he opened his glass blowing studio and gallery at a former fire station located at 179 Second Street in Langley. He retained the firehouse name calling his studio and gallery Callahan’s Firehouse Studio. This space allows McVay to design and fabricate his pieces while hosting other glass-blowing artists and enabling visitors to get an up-close view of the delicate and precise process. The old firehouse, built in 1939, has been home to many venues (including a beauty parlor!), but its resurrection as a glass blowing studio makes it a Washington destination not miss. Callahan’s Firehouse Studio is open seven days a week from 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Stop in to see the glass artists in action and perhaps buy a mind-blowing glass-blowing item for yourself. See more at www.callahansfirehouse.com.

Callahan’s Firehouse Studio in Langley is in its 1939-built fire station.

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Callahan’s Firehouse Studio

Travel Spotlight

100+ stocked

lakes statewide

Look for the white tag! WDF WDE RBY.

800

Over prizes totaling over

$37,000

COM

RAINBOW TROUT APRIL 23

OCTOBER 31

#Watroutderby

More than participating businesses

No entrance fee or registration required Open to anyone with a valid 2022 WA Fishing License.

participants Must comply with all fishing rules & regulations.

Visit wdfwderby.com for more infoRMATION

adventure

Clammers walk the beach with clam guns while looking for razor clams on the Long Beach Peninsula.

Washington Coast Adventures New ways to experience the coast—from surfing to backpacking and clam digging written by Jen Sotolongo 74 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Bradley Lanphear

adventure

WILD AND RUGGED, the largely undeveloped Washington coastline offers ample recreational opportunities for hardy adventure enthusiasts. From multi-day backpacking trips along the coastline, to paddling through dead forests, and catching a wave, a visit to the Washington Coast will promise breathtaking beauty and a beach experience you won’t find anywhere else.

Razor Clam Digging Pacific Razor Clams are a desirable catch in Washington. The meaty shellfish has a narrow, long shell that can grow between three and six inches long. All you need is a clam shovel and separate container to store the clams to get started. People of any age can dig for razor clams and try their hand at a quintessential Pacific Northwest experience. Only five coastal beaches in the state permit digging for razor clams—Long Beach, Twin Harbors, Copalis, Mocrocks and Kalaloch. Razor clam digging is seasonal, generally October through April, with just a few open days each month. Everyone 15 or older must obtain a shellfish or seaweed license to harvest clams. Licenses can be bought online or at more than 600 vendors throughout the state. Diggers are allowed the first 15 clams they catch, no matter the size. Be sure to check regulations and seasonal clamming information before you plan your trip.

People of any age can dig for razor clams and try their hand at a quintessential Pacific Northwest experience. JUNE | JULY 2022

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adventure

Paddling For a wonderful paddling experience, book a tour of the Copalis Ghost Forest with Buck’s NW. A 9.0 earthquake followed by a tsunami in the year 1700 off the Washington Coast resulted in more than 622 miles of land movement and claimed 15,000 lives across the Pacific. Largely unknown outside of scientists until recently, the Ghost Forest is a peaceful spot where paddlers can see the flooded roots from the old growth forest that remained after the tsunami. Another quiet spot to paddle is Ozette Lake, Washington’s largest unaltered lake, known to the native Makah people as Kahouk, or “Large Lake.” Covering an area of more than 12 square miles, Ozette Lake features various rivers and bays to explore. Those wanting to camp overnight can obtain a backcountry permit from the ranger station at the north end of the lake. There are no kayak rental services, so plan to rent before arrival.

Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau

Tidepooling at Rialto Beach

FROM TOP The break at Westport makes it one on Washington’s top surf spots. Kayaking at Ozette Lake off the northwest edge of the Olympic Peninsula.

Surfing The Washington Coast may seem like an odd choice for surfing, but year-round conditions actually make surfing very doable. The weather is generally best early in the morning during the colder months, and the ocean is actually a few degrees warmer than in the summer. Westport is the most popular surf spot on the coast, thanks to the easy road access. Consistent waves offer more than 300 days of surfable waves. Take lessons or rent a board from Steepwater Surf Shop, or stay at LOGE Westport, a one-stop adventure lodge and gear rental shop for everything you’ll need for a day out on the waves. Beginners should head to Seabrook, where an obstacle-free beach break and long sand spit provide gracious conditions for newbies. Take lessons or rent a surfboard from Buck’s NW in town. 76 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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The plentiful rocks along this stretch of the Washington Coast create some pretty spectacular tidepools, like starfish, anemones, crustaceans and more. It’s worth the 2-mile stroll down Rialto Beach to Hole-in-the-Wall to check out some of the most popular tidepools along the coast. Because the region is protected as part of the Olympic Coast Marine Sanctuary, wildlife viewing opportunities are abundant. Keep an eye out for spy whales, sea lions, otters, and abundant sea birds. Be sure to check the tide before heading out.

Backpack the Coast Trail For a one-of-a-kind backpacking experience, you can spend several days hiking along the protected Wilderness Coast directly along the beach. The South Coast Trail runs between the Third Beach and Oil City Trailheads and spans 17 miles one-way, while the North Coast Trail runs 37 miles between Shi Shi Beach to Rialto Beach. Backpackers can camp directly on the beach in most places, or opt for a campground. While the trek is easy to navigate–simply follow the coastline– there are a few challenges to consider. The tides will affect your passage, so be sure to bring a tide chart and know which parts of the trail require low tide, there are also long stretches of log jams and rocks, which can be cumbersome, and rope assists along cliff trails can be slippery in the rain, so bring gloves for added grip. The best time to go is between May and early October. The beaches can become very crowded during the summer months, so plan for a fall or weekday trip if you prefer to have more quiet (just don’t forget the rain gear!). If you do the trek point-to-point, you can leave a car at either end if you go with a friend, or you can book a shuttle service in advance with the Olympic Hiking Company. Backpackers must obtain a wilderness permit from www.recreation.gov at least one week in advance.

James Harnois

adventure

A giant green anemone is visible during low tide near Hole-in-the-Wall.

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Photos: Doe Bay Resort

lodging

ACCOMMODATIONS There are three main types of experiences to choose from, based on your needs. First, you may choose to camp in either drive-in, walk-in or family campsites. If four walls is more your style, you may want to book one of the cabins. They come in waterless, rustic versions (with heat, and sometimes wood stoves), deluxe (with bathroom and kitchen facilities) or group cabins (perfect for reunions, retreats, and other larger groups). For something different, try a yurt or dome, many of which are off-grid.

DINING The unassumingly named Doe Bay Cafe is full of people who care deeply about food. It’s not uncommon to hear one of them refer to the type of cuisine they create as “seed-to-table” dining, largely because of the onsite garden that provides much of its produce. Some of this reliance on local gardens and farms is out of necessity, as a restaurant on an island can’t source food as easily as its mainland brethren. But if you have the good fortune to get a seat in the cafe on one of the weekend nights for dinner, you will find that necessity often bears delicious creativity.

AMENITIES

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP One type of accommodation at Doe Bay Resort is a yurt. Kick back at the remote Doe Bay Resort on the San Juan Islands. Find local fare at Doe Bay Cafe. Soaking pools at Doe Bay Spa.

Doe Bay Resort & Retreat written by Cara Strickland THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS offer many kinds of escape, but perhaps few so rewarding as the Doe Bay Resort & Retreat on Orcas Island. It’s off the beaten path a ways–so much so that you’ll want to write out directions as your GPS might fail you. Once you arrive, however, you’ll find 38 acres of waterfront to explore, a wide variety of accommodations to suit your needs and a thoughtful restaurant serving food from local sources and in the most delicious way possible. 107 DOE BAY ROAD OLGA, ORCAS ISLAND www.doebay.com

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While some of the amenities of the resort have changed in response to Covid, most are still available, just in a slightly different form (watch the website, or call for updates to these policies). The spa houses outdoor soaking pools, perfect for enjoying the natural world. Currently, these are available for private rental to overnight guests. The resort contracts with a massage therapist who will book at their discretion. Enjoy the community of the fire ring in the evenings and stock up on whatever you might have forgotten to pack at the General Store. You can arrange to join a kayak tour, and whale watching excursions are not far away. If you need a quiet place to work, you can reserve Otter Lodge (built as a communal space with a lounge, library, and wifi access). Doe Bay has long been known for Doe Bay Fest. Guests and visitors can now experience live music all summer. Check the website for the most up-to-date lineup.

YOUR SUMMER GET-A-WAY Moses Lake has fun activities for the entire family. Enjoy a day boating along Moses Lake or hiking one of the local trails. Spend the day sampling wine from one of the local wineries. Or do both! And when the sun goes down, we have you covered with unique night spots to hang out and enjoy the friends you brought with you, or hang with the locals.

EVENTS:

Moses Lake Farmers’ Market – Open on Saturdays through October Surf ‘n Slide Water Park – Open through Labor Day Moses Lake Drive-in Air Show – June 18-19 Moses Lake Freedom Festival - July 1-3

Sand Scorpions Bounty Hole & Freestyle Mud Tracks – September 17

www.tourmoseslake.com

401 S. Balsam Street • Moses Lake, WA • 509-764-3820 Please conﬁrm event availability and facility hours beforehand.

More events and details at www.cityofml.com

Christopher Nelson/Sasquatch! Music Festival

trip planner

The Gorge Amphitheatre in Central Washington is one of the country’s most majestic music venues and should be hopping with top acts this summer.

The Gorge

Day

Follow the music to ancient beauty written by Ryn Pfeuffer LIVE MUSIC IS BACK, and summer concert season is here! Luckily for Pacific Northwesterners, one of the most scenic concert venues in the country, if not the continent, is in Central Washington. A couple of hours east of Seattle (and three hours west of Spokane), the Gorge Amphitheatre sits in a natural gorge in the heart of the Columbia River Valley. The space is a bit of a geological phenomenon, carved out roughly 50,000 years ago when an ice dam in Canada ripped floodwaters down the Columbia River. The Gorge truly is in the middle of nowhere, so it’s advisable that travelers go with some semblance of a plan. (At the very least, book accommodations.) The closest town is Quincy, 16 miles away. Whether you go for a quick one-night getaway or a full weekend, here are some itinerary ideas to soak up the best the area has to offer. 80

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DELIGHTFUL BITES • DRAMATIC VIEWS Hop in your car and head toward Quincy, the gateway to the Wenatchee Valley. It’s roughly a two-and-a-half-hour drive east from Seattle (150 miles) that takes you through the lush Cascades, before giving way to rolling hills and sparse high desert. If the all-interstate drive worked up a hunger, swing by the sister/brother-run Rich Tacos for a quick bite. The birria tacos, greasy handheld delights made with rich chunks of shredded beef and lots of melted cheese, are elevated to spiritual status when dunked in ruby red cups of beef consommé. For something lighter, try the shrimp tacos. Vegans have the option of two types of “meat”—the soy chorizo and vegan cheese are quite tasty when layered on a quesadilla. The beauty of the Columbia River Valley has a variety of places to stay (although most are a twenty- to thirty-minute drive from the venue). The most convenient place to hole up post-concert is

GRANT COUNTY WA S H I N G T O N Just Natural Ingredients

This is where all the good stuff happens! Fishing • Hunting • Camping • Hiking • Golfing • RVing • Wine Tasting • Watchable Wildlife

For more information about accommodations:

Grant County Tourism Commission l P.O. Box 37, Ephrata, WA 98823 l tourgrantcounty.com l 800.992.6234

THE GORGE, WASHINGTON

trip planner

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT For multiday music trips to the Gorge, incorporate a hike at Ancient Lakes Trail. Wild Horses Monument created by David Govedare in 1990 overlooking the Columbia River. The views aren’t bad either at the Gorge. A packed pie from Tower Pizza in Quincy.

EAT Idle Hour Eatery & Spirits www.idlehoureatery.com L and R Café www.facebook.com/landrcafe Rich Tacos www.instagram.com/ rich.tacos Tendrils Restaurant www.sageclifferesortandspa. com/tendrils-restaurant Tower Pizza www.tower-pizza.com

STAY The Gorge Amphitheatre Campground www.gorgecamping.com SageCliffe Resort & Spa www.sageclifferesort andspa.com

PLAY Ancient Lakes Trail www.alltrails.com/trail/us/ washington/ancient-lakes-trail Wild Horses Monument www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ wild-horses-monument

David Hagen/Washington Trails Association

Soap Lake Natural Spa & Resort www.soaplakeresort.com

to camp at The Gorge Amphitheatre campground. It’s by far the most popular option for people who don’t want to deal with the schlep home or the hours it can sometimes take to get out of The Gorge’s parking lot. To camp, you must have a valid event ticket, as well as a vehicle camping pass in order to enter the campground. Campsites range from barebones general camping to glamping in cottage-style tents with basic furnishings. Arrive early to get the best site. Premier sites go quickly. Seeking more upscale digs or wanting to stay an extra night? Consider SageCliffe Resort & Spa (formerly known as CaveB Inn). The swank resort offers yurts, several room types and standalone cliffside houses. Pro tip: The second-floor cavern rooms and cliffside houses closest to the pool have the most dramatic views of The Gorge and Columbia River. If you don’t feel like getting back in the car, book a table at the resort’s restaurant, Tendrils. Plates steer toward the sophisticated. Think Dungeness crab cakes with cilantro lime aioli and a Kurobuta pork tenderloin with sweet pea puree. For something more casual, head back to a Quincy watering 82 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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hole—Idle Hour Eatery & Spirits for a Bourbon Bacon Burger and growler to-go. Or head south to Wild Horses Monument for sunset. The sculpture of fifteen life-size metal wild horses in mid-gallop was designed and created by Chewelah sculptor David Govedare. The team (that’s equine-speak for a group of horses) is best viewed from a distance, but a short, moderately steep hike to see it up close offers a bonus view of sparkling Wanapum Lake in the background.

Day LISTEN TO THE MUSIC • SPA • WINE TASTING If you stay at SageCliffe, ease into the day with a massage ($155 for sixty minutes). The spa experience blends Swedish, deep tissue, and other techniques that will relax weary bodies into a state of blissed-out euphoria.

Tower Pizza

Live Nation

Grant County Tourism Commission

trip planner

Move on to Beaumont Cellars, a rustic tasting room sited on a 120-acre homestead in Quincy. Open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday only, it specializes in French and Italian varietals, such as Malbec, Syrah, Nebbiolo and Mourvedre. From spring to late fall, the tasting room hosts Crushpad Dinners with local chefs and wine pairings. Keep an eye on the calendar for upcoming events: www.beaumontcellars.com/events-calendar. Grab a late lunch or pre-show pizza at Tower Pizza before the show. The Gorge’s namesake pie is loaded with red sauce, salami, pepperoni, beef, Canadian bacon, olive, onion, mushrooms, green pepper, pineapple and tomato. Sit outside and enjoy some slices and spectacular views of the cliffs along the Columbia River before heading southwest to The Gorge Amphitheatre. (Check the Gorge Amphitheatre’s website for updates and more information.) Every year, concertgoers pack the 27,500-seat venue, known for its Insta-worthy views of cliffs, valleys and the Columbia River. More than 400,000 people attend concerts here each year. Oh, and then there’s that killer sound system that brings

Every year, concertgoers pack the 27,500-seat venue, known for its Insta-worthy views of cliffs, valleys and the Columbia River. More than 400,000 people attend concerts here each year. in bands like Rush, Pearl Jam, and Radiohead, as well as popular music festivals, Sasquatch Festival and Watershed Festival. Jam band icon Dave Matthews digs the arena so much that he recorded an album there titled, “The Gorge.” From Stevie Nicks to Chris Stapleton, and Brandi Carlile to Dave Matthews Band, this summer’s line-up is chock full of Alist headliners. On site, there are plenty of food vendors for hungry concertgoers, serving up fries, burgers and chicken fingers. You can also bring in a snack bag and a sealed bottle of water. No matter what, you will experience views, energy, and acoustics, unlike any other music venue. There’s a reason why The Gorge tops so many music fans’ bucket lists.

Day TAKE IT EASY • ANCIENT LAKES The day after a concert can be a total drag. On your final morning, you may be in a post-live music haze. That’s OK. Everyone’s out of partying practice after the past few years. Biscuits and gravy or the croissant breakfast sandwich and hashbrowns at L and R Café will fix you right up and make you feel like yourself again. Please note that breakfast is only served until 11 a.m (ish)—when the first lunch orders start to roll in. If you want to hit an easy hike on the way home, make time for the Ancient Lakes Trail. It’s a relatively flat hike through an ancient glacial basin. Expect to see lakes, mesas, basalt columns, waterfalls, and maybe even a rattlesnake. Don’t forget your hat, water and sunscreen—the entirety of this 4.6-mile loop is sun-exposed, and the water in the lakes is not safe to drink. A Discovery Pass is required to park at the trailhead, and dogs are welcome, on a leash. From there, it’s a straight shot home, back through the Cascades and over Snoqualmie Pass, or points east and south, happy and humming the setlist from the previous night. JUNE | JULY 2022

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northwest destination

Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development

Fly-fishing on the Yellowstone River just south of Livingston, Montana.

Livingston, Montana

A redoubt for stars under big skies and abundant outdoor pursuits written by Ryn Pfeuffer

WITH THE DRAMATIC Absaroka mountain range as a backdrop, Livingston (population 8,040) is like a town out of the Old West. Located on the banks of the Yellowstone River, thirty minutes from Bozeman via a winding mountain pass, the former railroad town attracts everyone from actors and artists to outdoor enthusiasts. Founded in 1882, this oft-overlooked town in southwestern Montana is well worth a detour from the state’s larger, more known destinations. For more than two decades, Dennis Quaid called Paradise Valley, the aptly named area a few miles south, home. Jeff Bridges owns a ranch nearby. And the film that made Brad Pitt a star, A River Runs Through It, was filmed here. There’s a reason why Livingston is called Montana’s Windiest City. Weather can be extreme, with winds sometimes blowing 84

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at 60 miles per hour in the spring, causing interstate closures. Frigid winter temperatures stretch for nearly four months. If you’re willing to brave the elements, you’ll be rewarded with an outdoor enthusiast’s wonderland. After all, Livingston is the original gateway to Yellowstone National Park. Just an hour’s drive from the North Entrance of Yellowstone National Park, the only entrance open year-round, local outdoor guides and outfitters take travelers on excursions of a lifetime—from hiking and rafting to fly-fishing to wildlife watching. If you want to try your hand at fly-fishing, book a trip with Yellowstone River Outfitters, and be sure to ask for Brogan. He’s been a guide in the area for more than a decade, and will coach anglers on the river and more secluded lakes, to catch brown trout, rainbow trout and white fish.

Photos: Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development

LIVINGSTON, MONTANA

northwest destination

EAT 2nd Street Bistro www.murrayblock.com/2sb Gil’s Goods www.murrayblock.com/gils Pinky’s Café www.pinkyscafemt.com

STAY The Murray Hotel www.murrayblock.com Yellowstone Pioneer Lodge www.yellowstonepioneer lodge.com Yellowstone River Inn & Suites www.yrsinn.com

PLAY Sacajawea Park www.nps.gov/places/ sacajawea-park.htm Yellowstone Guidelines www.yellowstoneguidelines.com Yellowstone River Outfitters www.yellowstoneriver outfitters.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Livingston, 30 miles east of Bozeman, is a small town of 8,040 and close to the Crazy Mountains. Murray Hotel in Livingston made Anthony Bourdain’s favorites. Downtown Livingston is a classic Western town.

After a day exploring the great outdoors, Livingston offers plenty of local color and culture. Think bookstores, boutiques, galleries and a lively restaurant scene. There are a handful of charming hotels to rest your head. The Murray Hotel, a classic Montana landmark since 1904, has hosted the likes of Buffalo Bill, Calamity Jane, and more recently, Anthony Bourdain, who was a frequent guest. In a Facebook post, Bourdain listed his ten favorite hotels in the world—the Murray Hotel made the cut. Book a table at 2nd Street Bistro inside the Murray Hotel. The bistro melds classic French techniques with locally sourced beef, lamb, pork, chicken and produce, creating an extraordinary dining experience. All vegetables and most herbs are sourced in the summer from the restaurant’s urban farm. A flaky puff pastry shell was filled with braised sweetbreads, fava

beans and fennel on a recent menu. Pan-roasted Alaskan halibut was served with tomato, fennel, and rock shrimp risotto for something more substantial. Wake up and head to Pinky’s Café, known locally as “Destination Pancake.” For more than twenty years, this breakfastonly establishment has served up strong coffee and hearty comfort fare. The waffle benny, a bacon-stuffed waffle topped with sausage, poached eggs and Hollandaise, is a tasty update on a classic benedict. Soak up the last gasps of Livingston’s scenic beauty at Sacagawea Park, a municipal park a half-mile from the probable location where the Lewis and Clark expedition reached the river. There, visitors can see a statue of Sacagawea mounted upon a horse and holding her son, Jean Baptiste, plus some interpretive exhibits. JUNE | JULY 2022

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1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Friday Harbor

Chelan

Bellevue

Port Orchard

Aberdeen

Newport

Marysville Everett

Seattle

Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Whidbey Island

Olympic National Park

Republic

Winthrop

Coupeville

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Until Next Time Paddling on the Klickitat River. photo by Jason Hummel Photography/ State of Washington Tourism

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t s r u o y r e v Disco

Savor farm-fresh menus, browse for hand-crafted local gifts, and create warm memories here and in the surrounding Willamette Valley. Stay as long as you like; we are #authenticallyAlbany and we can’t wait to share it all with you.

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Clockwise from top left: Life on 2nd Ave. by (Melinda Martin), Victorian Splendor (Camron Settlemier), Historic Carousel (Tiffany Holdahl), “Wood Fired Delight” (Dan Bateman)

Continue for Special Inserts

D E S T I N AT I O N

YAKIMA VALLEY

Y Picture taken at Dineen Vineyards

Earn rewards for redeeming discounts at Yakima Valley Wineries.

GO TO VISITYAKIMA.COM TO PLAN YOUR TRIP

YAKIMA VALLEY

Enjoy craft beers in a laid-back setting at Cowiche Creek Brewing.

A THREE-DAY GETAWAY Taking in the fruits of a fertile land

ust 140 miles southeast of Seattle, the Yakima Valley is the Paciﬁc Northwest’s agricultural center, home to more than 3,000 farms, including more than 130 organic farms. It’s the source of 50% of the state’s wine grapes and more hops than anywhere in the world. It’s your destination for farm-fresh ﬂavors, hops and craft beer, wine and outdoor adventures.

A publication of Statehood Media with Yakima Valley Tourism www.visityakima.com

Not only is the Yakima Valley the birthplace of Washington Wine, it’s ground zero for the vast majority of hops grown in the country. In fact, the Yakima Valley grows nearly three-quarters of the nation’s hops. As goes Yakima, so too go almost all of our beloved craft beer. Every visit to the area should include sampling

Join our social media community at: Instagram: @yakimavalley Facebook: www.facebook.com/VisitYakima

the terroir of Yakima hops as expressed in local craft beers, but should also delve into some of the other stars of this agrarian community. Over three days in Yakima, we sample beers, sip wine, enjoy farm-fresh flavors and find some outstanding places for paddling, fishing, hiking and peace of mind.

Photography courtesy of Yakima Valley Tourism Cover photo: Mahre MADE {2022} DESTINATION YAKIMA VALLEY

DAY 1

Steph Forrer

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Moments of zen with paddleboard yoga, mountain lakes and Just Breathe Yoga Company. Yakima Valley is a top destination for wine enthusiasts such as these at Silver Lake Winery. Crafted serves a creative menu with locally sourced foods.

he ﬁrst day starts on the pristine waters of Rimrock Lake, a clear blue mountain lake along the White Pass Scenic Byway and surrounded by lush green pines. Either plan ahead and take your own kayak, canoe or paddleboard, or rent rafts, kayaks and gear on the way into town at Rill Adventures

DESTINATION YAKIMA VALLEY {2022}

in Thorp. If you want to take the next stroke, book a paddleboard yoga class with Just Breathe Yoga Company and put your life back in balance. Also check out Mahre MADE as an option for SUP excursions on the Yakima River. If you want to keep your feet on terra ﬁrma, try the nearby half-day hike from

While your day on the lakes or trails is exhilarating and refreshing, back in Yakima proper it’s time to reward yourself with some of the area’s bounty with locavore menus and great wine at wineries, vineyards and cellars in one of Washington’s top wine-growing regions. For dinner, try Crafted, the passion of a husband and wife team who are obsessed with local produce. The menu includes chef-crafted dishes such as ﬁngerling potatoes with garlic chimichurri, house-made pasta with foraged morels, and roasted beets with cotija cream. After dinner, you can ﬁnd live music, kick back settings and great wines abounding at wine venues in Yakima. In town, hit AntoLin Cellars’ tasting room for Frenchoaked petite syrah, Chardonnay and carménère. Likewise, Kana Winery’s tasting room is both good wine and a good scene, with local music always on tap. Also worth the short drive is Owen Roe, 16 miles south of Downtown Yakima in Wapato. Owen Roe is a consistent top performer in the wine trade magazines and makes extraordinary pinot noirs and cabernet sauvignon from Yakima Valley fruit. If you want to make wine a bigger theme in your visit, get the Yakima Valley Wine Country map on www.visityakima.com and plan your tasting tour of the regions that make up the Yakima Valley AVA. The best part about this wine region is that it’s completely accessible and unpretentious for wine newbies.

WINE COUNTRY Indian Springs trailhead at Round Mountain, a 5.2mile roundtrip with a steady climb of 1,700 with amazing views of Clear Lake, Rimrock Lake, Mount Adams and a peek of Rainier’s peak, on clear days. Clear Lake and Rimrock Lake are both excellent for kayak, canoe or standup paddle retreats.

Y Picture taken at White Pass Scenic Byway

300+ MILES OF TRAILS, 34 LAKES & PONDS, 6 RIVERS AND 300 DAYS OF SUN!

Fish, float paddle, ride, bike, hike and climb on your next Yakima Valley adventure.

GO TO VISITYAKIMA.COM TO PLAN YOUR TRIP

DAY 2

nglers, take note! While Yakima’s vast hop production may catch some by surprise, it’s well known that the Yakima River is one of the state’s best for fly-fishing and indeed Washington’s only blue ribbon fly-fishing river. Anglers come from all over the world to wade into the Yakima with rainbow trout in rocky shadows. Day two will be dedicated to the austere beauty and gratitude that comes from hooking trout on the Yakima and then retiring to places of comfort and craft beer. The Yakima River headwaters are in the Cascades at Snoqualmie Pass. It runs 214 miles southeast to Richland, where it flows into the

DESTINATION YAKIMA VALLEY {2022}

Columbia River. Check in at Red’s Fly Shop along the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway between Ellensburg and Yakima for local knowledge, gear and guided trips. Drop into the river beneath stunning basalt cliffs covered by a shrub steppe landscape. Raptors and bighorn sheep are also enamored with the Yakima River, so keep your eyes open for these uplifting encounters. After you’ve had closer encounters with rainbow trout and you’re fished out head to Canyon River Grill for lunch. Start with char-grilled Spanish octopus and follow on with Zane and Wylie’s steak salad with smoked bacon, tomato, egg, onion, avocado,

cucumber and crumbled bleu cheese. Canyon River Lodge is a luxury den in the middle of the wild and scenic stretch of the Yakima River, with ten two-bedroom suites all with floor-to-ceiling windows for relaxing, sweeping views of the river and the shrub steppe. But before you call it a night, it’s time to experience hops— the mother of all bounties of Yakima. Two breweries—Bron Yr Aur Brewing Co. and Cowiche Creek Brewing—nicely showcase Yakima Valley hops. Bron Yr Aur, pronounced bron yar, is Welsh for “hill of gold.” Its beers have won regional and national awards, especially for Bron Yr Aur’s stouts and Scottish ales. Gourmet pizzas

with beer-infused crusts are the rage at this local brewery. In the small town of Cowiche 12 miles northwest of Yakima, Cowiche Creek Brewing is a great reflection of the valley’s hops and its outdoors. In a farm setting on the outskirts of town, this brewery is a kickback setting with hopped up craft beers. Chuck and brisket burgers the way they were supposed to be made are served with fries and good views. This is also a good venue to sample Washington apples through its local ciders. As this is a beer lovers destination, check out the 21 stops on the Hop Country Craft Beer Trail at www.visityakima.com/ yakima-valley-hops-and-beer.asp.

DAY 3

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A great way to taste Yakima Valley’s blue chip hops is through Bron Yr Aur Brewing’s local craft beers. The Yakima River is one of the most sought after fly-fishing experiences in the Pacific Northwest. Canyon River Ranch in Ellensburg is lodging perfected in the Yakima Valley.

WHILE YAKIMA’S VAST HOP PRODUCTION MAY CATCH SOME BY SURPRISE, IT’S WELL KNOWN THAT THE YAKIMA RIVER IS ONE OF THE STATE’S BEST FOR FLY-FISHING AND INDEED WASHINGTON’S ONLY BLUE RIBBON FLY-FISHING RIVER.

he best mornings start with good coffee and scenic hike. Grab your favorite coffee and head out to Umtanum. For a lovely and easy hike, try the Umtanum Creek Canyon Trail on the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway. The hike is a 6.2 mile round trip with only 500 feet of elevation gain. Wildflowers and birds are definite. Bighorn sheep are possible sights. A more challenging but equally stunning hike is the Yakima Skyline Trail, a 4.2 mile round trip that gains 1,4500 feet. Down below, the Yakima River slinks southerly toward the Columbia. The ultimate goal of this hike is the crest called Gracie Point. If you’ve made it that far, you will be rewarded with some of the best views in the valley. Seasonal produce is also on the agenda for the final day of your Yakima Valley weekend. Every Sunday, the Downtown

WHERE TO… EAT Yakima Farmers Market takes place in front of the historic Capitol Theatre. More than seventy vendors showcase the best of the valley’s 40-plus crops from spring through fall. Come for berries, cherries and early veggies in early summer, then find peaches, apricots, pluots, apples, pumpkins, peppers and more throughout summer and fall. Sample artisan foods and spicy ceviche from local chefs. The Johnson Orchards farm store and bakery in Yakima is a good stop on the last day to take home some of the goodness that brought you out for a tasting weekend. Depending on the season, cherries, apples, peaches, tomatoes, baked goods and more are worth taking home and for either freezing, jarring, jamming or eating. Think of each bite, each farmfresh flavor as a Yakima Valley postcard to yourself.

» Bron Yr Aur Brewing Co., Naches

{www.bronyraurbrewing.com}

» Canyon River Grill, Ellensburg

{www.canyonrivergrill.com}

» Cowiche Creek Brewing, Cowiche {www.cowichecreek brewing.com}

» Crafted, Yakima

{www.craftedyakima.com}

» E. Z Tiger, Yakima {www.ez-tiger.com}

STAY » Canyon River Ranch, Ellensburg

{www.canyonriver.net}

» Hotel Maison, Yakima

{www.thehotelmaison.com}

PLAY » Explore the hops scene through breweries

{www.visityakima.com/yakimavalley-hops-and-beer.asp}

» Fly-fish on the Yakima River {www.visityakima.com/yakimavalley-water-recreation.asp}

» Hike the Yakima River Canyon’s scenic trails

{www.visityakima.com/yakimavalley-hiking-biking-off-road.asp}

» Wine taste in Yakima Valley Wine Country {www.visityakima.com/yakimavalley-wine-country.asp}

Hiking trails in the Yakima Valley get to moments like this in crossing Umtanum Creek on the Umtanum Creek Trail.

{2022} DESTINATION YAKIMA VALLEY

Y Picture taken at Bale Breaker Brewing Co.

Earn rewards for redeeming discounts at Yakima Valley Breweries.

GO TO VISITYAKIMA.COM TO PLAN YOUR TRIP

FROM THE GREEN

A GOLFER’S GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

WRITTEN BY KEVIN GIFFIN

LOT HAS CHANGED in golf this season. For the moment, the ravishes of the pandemic seem to have abated, drawing back the curtain on the stunningly beautiful and challenging courses of the Pacific Northwest. Tiger Woods is back in the mix, and a new young phenom Scottie Scheffler won the Masters’ green jacket at age 25. What’s remained about the same is the devotion of the people who work to bring you the best experience on your golf outing. These are the starters, the caddies, the restaurant servers, the bartenders and the greenstenders. After a hard couple of years for all of these people, be sure to be courteous with your emotions and generous with your gratitude. If we can do only those things this year, we’ll stay out of the bunkers and in the good graces of the people who are looking out for us on the course.

OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS

ENTERPRISE, OREGON

Alpine Meadows is a small nine-hole course set in the big world of the Wallowas. Nearly encircled by the stunning peaks of the Wallowa Whitman National Forest, Alpine Meadows is played in a constant state of awe. Traveling to the remote area requires lodging at The Jennings Hotel, the Wallowa Lake Lodge or equivalent. Don’t miss the top-notch local breweries and Stein Distillery.

Learn more: www.golfalpine meadows.com

BAY POINT LANDING COOS BAY, OREGON

In Coos Bay, just 30 minutes north of Bandon, behold one of Oregon’s oldest golf clubs and one of its most beautiful courses. Bay Point Landing offers two courses–Coos Golf Club and Sunset Bay Golf Course–nearby and serves as a wonderful lodging community for Bandon Dunes courses to the south. The handsome modern cabins and Airstream suites feel like a cozy and extravagant getway. Likewise, any of these courses will also feel different than typical inland links you’ve played before. Bay Point Landing will take you out of your travel rut with new ways to experience the Oregon Coast and its stunning golf courses.

Learn more: www.baypoint landing.com

CHEHALEM GLENN NEWBERG, OREGON

In wine country, it’s all about the terroir. At Chehalem Glenn Golf Course in the heart of the northern Willamette Valley wine country, the terroir is challenging for any level golfer. Steep hills, feisty bunkers and lovely greens define this course. The Chehalem Mountain AVA is also home to the soil that produces wines such as Elk Cove, ArborBrook, Anne Amie and Ponzi. Go straight for the pin-ot. Salish Cliffs Golf Club (photo: Brian Oar/Salish Cliffs Golf Club) Cover: Chehalem Glenn (photo: Chehalem Glenn)

Learn more: www.chehalemglenn.com

2022 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 3

FROM THE GREEN

EAGLE CREST RESORT

St. Andrews without the rain. The fairways run fast, and your errant shot slows only in the high fescue, if at all. The Row, one of the course’s restaurants, serves Scotch eggs, too. Tetherow is international travel made local.

REDMOND, OREGON

Eagle Crest Resort lies nicely in Central Oregon’s banana belt in the high desert of Redmond, Its three courses include two 18-hole championship par 72 courses and an 18-hole executive course–all surrounded by the beautiful Cascade Range. Niblick & Greene’s in the Clocktower Building has a full-service bar and Oregon craft beers galore. Aerie Cafe in The Lodge in great for breakfast and grab-and-go items. The casual Silverleaf Cafe serves pizza, tacos and salads alongside a full bar and live music. Check in at The Lodge for a weekend of luxurious linens in the high desert. There are miles of trails to walk to unwind or as a golf substitute and a full service spa for all of the things that need attention.

Learn more: www.eagle-crest.com

GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH SISTERS, OREGON

The dark beauty that is Black Butte overlooks the iconic Black Butte Ranch Glaze Meadow course, in a placid setting in the Deschutes National Forest. Designed by architect John Fought, Glaze Meadow has elevated greens and views of Mount Washington and North Sister in the Cascade Range. This resort is perfect for a family adventure, with horse stables, hiking, tennis courts, restaurants and a full spa for pampering.

Learn more: www.blackbutte ranch.com/golf

INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE

HOOD RIVER, OREGON

The majestic snow-covered Mount Hood looms large over Indian Creek Golf Course, providing stark relief from the greens and water blues below. Set in the Fruit Loop region of the Hood River area, the bounty of this fertile land is on display everywhere—from the apple and pear orchards to the countless

Learn more: www.tetherow.com

WILDHORSE RESORT GOLF COURSE PENDLETON, OREGON

Wildhorse Resort Golf Course (photo: Wildhorse Resort & Casino)

vineyards and farm-to-table restaurants. The nineteenth hole here offers more than its peers.

Learn more: www.indiancreek golf.com

OLD MACDONALD BANDON, OREGON

Perhaps the most glorious of all courses is Bandon Dunes’ Old Macdonald, set as it is on western dunes and Scottish gorse and rolling above the Pacific Ocean. Designed by Tom Doak and Jim Urbina, the course puts you in the ocean air and on another planet. This is just one of four other-wordly beautiful courses at the resort.

Learn more: www.bandondunes golf.com

SALISHAN GOLF LINKS

GLENEDEN BEACH, OREGON

Oregon golf legend Peter Jacobsen had his hands on the 2004 makeover of the Salishan course on the Oregon Coast, but not the menu at Attic Bar & Lounge. Recount the best and worst of your play with signature cocktails such as the western meadows, a citrus vodka-based drink, or a Salishan sour, a shaken bourbon, lemon, pinot noir and orange bitters concoction. Stay close to the ocean

4 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2022

with seafood green curry (clams, halibut, green curry and brown rice) and seared halibut with basil pesto, brown rice and a citrus salad with lemon herb dressing.

Learn more: www.salishan.com

SILVIES VALLEY RANCH SILVIES, OREGON

More from the high desert, the new Silvies Valley Ranch brings together traditional golf with traditional ruminants—goats. While it amassed an impressive chest of medals from national golf publications in its opening year 2018, Silvies is becoming best known for its well-mannered American Range goat caddies. These friendly creatures carry your bag and work for peanuts—literally. South of John Day in Eastern Oregon, Silvies is a chance to get away and enjoy the resort, spa and shooting range.

Learn more: www.silvies.us

TETHEROW

BEND, OREGON

This course gets you into a high desert climate that puts you closer to a cactus-less Southwest feel. Tetherow in Bend is a startling incarnation of Scottish links. Designed by Scotsman David McLay Kidd, Tetherow feels like

You’ve just come off eighteen holes at the Wildhorse resort course, one of Golf Digest’s top casino courses, and off in the distance to the east are the comely Blue Mountains. Nearby is the reward for drives that held straight, shots that went un-duffed and putts predictably sunk. The Wildhorse Clubhouse Bar & Grill is the reward. Unwind with an Oregon huckleberry jalapeño margarita or the “mother of pearl,” the official cocktail of the Masters. Start with a Wildhorse cobb, adorned in slow-roasted pork, crispy fried avocado, egg, shredded cheddar, more veggies and ranch dressing. Because this is Pendleton, someone in the group should cowboy up with the cowboy burger, a stack of beef, bacon, an onion ring, cheese and a smothering barbecue sauce.

Learn more: www.wildhorse resort.com/resort/golf

WASHINGTON GAMBLE SANDS

BREWSTER, WASHINGTON

Along the northern reaches of the Lake Chelan wine growing region, Gamble Sands in Brewster, Washington is another good place to travel and taste. Hit the links with another masterpiece from Scottish course designer, David McLay Kidd. Long before the course was built, winemakers coveted the soil in the region for themselves, making it one of the top up-and-coming wine regions in the state.

Learn more: www.gamblesands.com

There is a place

866-242-5532

BlackButteRanch.com

FROM THE GREEN

PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB

PULLMAN, WASHINGTON

Prospector Golf Course (photo: Greg Sweney Productions)

THE HOME COURSE DUPONT, WASHINGTON

Located on a nice piece of real estate between Olympia and Tacoma on the Nisqually Reach in DuPont, The Home Course has earned the #2 ranking for best public courses in Washington.

Some research shows that Hudson Bay Company traders may have laid out a six-hole course here in 1830s, making it the first known golf course in the Pacific Northwest.

Learn more: www.thehome course.com

6 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2022

The soft greens and browns of Palouse Ridge Golf Course in Pullman, Washington, are calming factors as you watch your ball run endlessly on the links-style course. A beautiful eighteen-hole championship course, Palouse Ridge is Washington State University’s home course. WSU alums who haven’t been back since it was completed in 2008, alumni association discounts await you.

Learn more: www.palouseridge.com

PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE

CLE ELUM, WASHINGTON

Prospector Course at Suncadia was designed by Arnold Palmer and nature. It feels like a small and majestic clearing in the woods, a glade on the western slopes of the North Cascades.

The tenth hole brings it all to the fore, ahem, with stunning views from the tee box above the treeline and a hole that finishes 100 feet below.

Learn more: www.destination hotels.com/suncadia-resort

THE RESORT AT PORT LUDLOW

PORT LUDLOW, WASHINGTON

Set overlooking the marina on the east coast of the Olympic Peninsula, the Resort at Port Ludlow is a Robert Muir Graves-designed homage to the beauty of the Pacific Northwest. Sightlines on this course include the Olympic and Cascade ranges, Hood Canal and Ludlow Bay. Stay at the Port Ludlow Inn, a 37-room venue inspired by New England coastal estates, but with fireplaces and jetted tubs in each room. At The Fireside restaurant, try the king salmon, the halibut or the flat iron au poivre. Its menu

celebrates local farms, ranches and cheesemakers.

Learn more: www.portludlow resort.com

SALISH CLIFFS AT LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT

SHELTON, WASHINGTON

Consistently ranked among the top casino resorts, Salish Cliffs on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula is a majestic gem in the woods. Owned by the Squaxin Island Tribe, the par 72 course is the world’s first Salmon-safe certified golf course, highlighting the tribe’s commitment to protecting native habitat, managing water runoff, reducing pesticides, and advancing environmental practices.Bentgrass fairways and ryegrass rough feel private and secluded in the surrounding forest. Decorum calls for collared shirts, no denim and carts only. Stay and play at Little Creek Casino Resort, and take full advantage of 7 Inlets Spa packages, too. The indoor saltwater pool and hot tub are two more ways to relax after a day on the championship course. Be sure to dine at the Squaxin Island Seafood Bar teeming with fresh regional seafood.

Learn more: www.little-creek.com

SNOQUALMIE RIDGE GOLF COURSE

SNOQUALMIE, WASHINGTON

This Jack Nicklaus Signature Design championship course is home to the Boeing Classic. The Golden Bear built this course around mountain views, dense stands of fir trees and an eagle sanctuary on the fourteenth hole. When the fairway and Douglas fir green meet the blue sky and cumulus cloud white, there may be no more beautiful forested setting than Snoqualmie Ridge Golf Course. If you’re making a weekend of it, Salish Lodge & Spa overlooking Snoqualmie Falls is your moment of zen.

Learn more: www.clubat snoqualmieridge.com

Stay & Play Package

WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB WALLA WALLA, WASHINGTON

Just ten minutes west of the densely wine-cellared downtown Walla Walla is Wine Valley Golf Club. This beautiful eighteen-hole course with fairways as wide as the Eastern Washington skies provides the perfect gamesmanship before heading to town for wines from some of the world’s finest winemakers. Stay and Play packages are available at the historic Marcus Whitman Hotel, Hampton Inn and Courtyard Marriott in Walla Walla.

starting at

$329

THE RESORT AT

Learn more: www.winevalley golfclub.com

IDAHO COEUR D’ALENE RESORT COEUR D’ALENE, IDAHO

Coeur d’Alene Resort Course is a tale of two land masses. This beauty is set on the banks of Lake Coeur d’Alene and plays over it. The fourteenth hole is a massive floating island that operates on submarine cables, changing the length of the hole from 90 yards to 220 yards and anywhere in between. Golfers are ferried out for successful green landings. The failures are collected each year by divers.

Learn more: www.cdaresort.com/ play/golf

Come Play & Explore Port Ludlow • Boat-In & Play with complimentary shuttle available to and from the Marina (advanced reservation required) • Private lessons & clinics for all skill levels • 30+ miles of local hiking trails • Farm-to-table dining at The Fireside Restaurant • A perfect getaway, less than two hours from Seattle

PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE

PRIEST LAKE, IDAHO

In a sea of towering green conifers on the eastern edge of Northern Idaho’s Colville National Forest and the western bank of Priest Lake, Priest Lake Golf Course is an eighteen-hole championship course. If you’re staying at the adjacent Hill’s Resort across the lake, you can boat over and tie up to tee off.

Keystone Port Townsend

PORT LUDLOW Clinton

Kingston

Mukilteo

Edmonds

Learn more: www.plgolfcourse.com

www.PortLudlowResort.com/golf 2022 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 7

WHERE TO PLAY

MORE PLACES TO PLAY

OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS www.golfalpinemeadows.com Enterprise, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,072 $20-$47

CHEHALEM GLENN www.chehalemglenn.com Newberg, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,062 $29-$40

EAGLE CREST RESORT www.eagle-crest.com Redmond, Oregon Length from back tees: varies by course

GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH www.blackbutteranch.com/golf Sisters, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,007 $47-$82

INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE www.indiancreekgolf.com Hood River, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,261 $35-$59

OAK KNOLL GOLF COURSE www.oakknollgolf.org Ashland, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,047 $20-$24

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2022

OLD MACDONALD www.bandondunesgolf.com Bandon, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,944 $50-$335

Salishan Golf Links (photo: Salishan Coastal Lodge)

RUNNING Y RANCH RESORT www.runningy.com Klamath Falls, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,138 $55-$95

SALISHAN GOLF LINKS www.salishan.com Gleneden Beach, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,470 $39-$99

SILVIES VALLEY RANCH www.silvies.us Seneca, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,170 $75-$175

TETHEROW www.tetherow.com Bend, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,293 $50-$190 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards

Spacious and well-appointed guestrooms at The Lodge

Equestrian trails, hiking, biking, and seasonal activities

Extended stay vacation rentals

Seasonal outdoor pools, indoor pool and hot tub

Three onsite dining options

Only 18 miles from downtown Bend

Three golf courses and putting green

WHERE TO PLAY

WASHINGTON APPLE TREE RESORT www.appletreeresort.com Yakima, Washington Length from back tees: 6,961 $52-$79 Kalispel Golf and Country Club (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)

STAY & PLAY CASINOS KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB NORTHERN QUEST RESORT & CASINO www.kalispelgolf.com Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,663 Packages start at $149 (overnight plus one round of golf for two)

SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT www.little-creek.com Shelton, Washington Length from back tees: 7,269 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $75-$139

SWINOMISH GOLF LINKS SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Anacortes, Washington Length from back tees: 6,177 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $21-$38

BEAR MOUNTAIN RANCH www.bearmtgolf.com Chelan, Washington Length from back tees: 7,231 $50-$100

GAMBLE SANDS www.gamblesands.com Brewster, Washington Length from back tees: 7,169 $60-$95

THE GOLF CLUB AT NEWCASTLE www.newcastlegolf.com Newcastle, Washington (Bellevue) Length from back tees: 7,024 $80-$165

THE HOME COURSE www.thehomecourse.com DuPont, Washington Length from back tees: 7,424 $24-$49

INDIAN CANYON GOLF COURSE www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,255 $20-$49

Apple Tree Resort (photo: Apple Tree Resort)

PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB

THE RESORT AT PORT LUDLOW

www.palouseridge.com Pullman, Washington Length from back tees: 7,308 $61-$109

www.portludlowresort.com Port Ludlow, Washington Length from back tees: 6,861 $30-$55

PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE AT SUNCADIA

WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB

www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort Cle Elum, Washington Length from back tees: 7,100 $64-$139

www.winevalleygolfclub.com Walla Walla, Washington Length from back tees: 7,600 $80-$155

WILDHORSE RESORT GOLF COURSE WILDHORSE RESORT & CASINO www.wildhorseresort.com/ resort/golf Pendleton, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,112 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $45-$55

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2022

IDAHO COEUR D’ALENE RESORT GOLF COURSE www.cdaresort.com/play/golf Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Length from back tees: 7,189 $79-$99

PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE www.plgolfcourse.com Priest Lake, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,200 $22-$56

TRAIL CREEK GOLF COURSE www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,968 $85-$179 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards

GO FOR THE WIN! “One of America’s top casino golf courses.” - Golf Digest

TWO GOLF COURSES Play Wildhorse Resort Golf Course and the Golf Course at Birch Creek, just minutes away south of Pendleton.

VEGAS-STYLE GAMING

FINE DINING

Over 1,200 slots with all the latest reels and your favorite table games.

Eight restaurants on-site with a delicious array of food choices.

STAY & PLAY PACKAGES AVAILABLE CASINO • HOTEL • GOLF • RV • DINING • FUNPLEX 800.654.9453 • Pendleton, OR I-84 Exit 216 • wildhorseresort.com F Owned and operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation.

04190.TT.04.22

1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Inserts: Destination Yakima Valley; PNW Golf | June/July 2022

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Washington's Top 5 Kayaking Destinations

Special Insert: Destination Yakima Valley