TRIP PLANNER: ROSLYN + CLE ELUM PG. 78
10 Summer Music Festivals
Get Figgy With It: Washington-Grown Figs
Clever Backyard Projects
Get Outside INCLUSIVE OUTDOOR ADVENTURES AROUND THE STATE
I NSI D
E:
ISH B R I T B IA M COLU WAY GETA DE GU I
YEARS OF
SEATTLE PRIDE
1889mag.com $5.95 display until July 31, 2024
LIVE
THINK
EXPLORE
WASHINGTON June | July
volume 43
SPEND THE WEEKEND
WINING AND DINING WEST OF PORTLAND.
Experience an exceptional, intimate world of wine just west of Portland. Find your new favorite pour at
Order Your FREE Wine Touring Guide
TUALATINVALLEY.ORG WCVA_1889_WA_June_July_24_Wine.indd 1
5/14/24 11:17 AM
4 11:17 AM
EXPLORATION IS AN ART There’s this place in Montana that might just surprise you. A place where you’ll find solitude, untouched wild spaces and adventure just minutes from gourmet restaurants, funky local shops and a killer music scene. It’s a place surrounded by mountains, with trails that start right outside your door and rivers crisscrossing the city. Missoula is a place of families and students, fine dining and food trucks, arts and culture. And it’s time to see this place for yourself.
CLARK FORK RIVER
PLONK
VAN BUREN FOOTBRIDGE
Book your hotel now and begin your Missoula adventure.Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/sh for more information.
Northwest Figs? photography by Bill Purcell
Burnt Ridge Nursery & Orchards near Onalaska is making a new home for the warm-weather fruit. (pg. 30)
The beginnings of figs emerge from trees at Burnt Ridge Nursery & Orchards near Onalaska in May.
6 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Co-owner Michael Dolan at Burnt Ridge Nursery & Orchards with his dog, Ginger, and cat, Georgie.
Celebrate Pride at the Seattle Pride Parade or one of the other events going on around Washington this summer.
FEATURES JUNE | JULY 2024 • volume 43
52 Fifty Years of Pride The fight for equality in Seattle began in the early 1900s. Its first Gay Pride Week was celebrated a half century later. A brief history of the fight for gay rights and where to celebrate this summer. written by Ryn Pfeuffer
60 Facing a New Reality Whatcom County had to import truckloads of water last summer in emergency measures. Other counties face emergencylevel droughts this summer. Are we just creating more sand to put our heads in? written by Lauren Kramer
64 A Poke in the Eye
Visit Seattle
Seattle Art Museum reveals a collection of counterculture pop art in Poke in the Eye: Art of the West Coast Counterculture, through September 2.
8
written by Kerry Newberry 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
aTIETON RIVER
photo by Shannon Mahre
WASHINGTON
STATE YAKIMA VALLEY
aCOWICHE CANYON TRAILS
aWHITE PASS SCENIC BYWAY photo by Shannon Mahre
300+ MILES OF TRAILS, 34 LAKES & PONDS, 6 RIVERS & 300 DAYS OF SUN!
Fish, float paddle, ride, bike, hike and climb on your next Yakima Valley adventure.
GET YOUR FREE TRAVEL GUIDE AT VISITYAKIMA.COM
DEPARTMENTS JUNE | JULY 2024 • volume 43
LIVE
20
18 SAY WA?
Timothy Egan’s new book; the guide to summer music festivals.
26 FOOD + DRINK
Harper King/Capitol Hill Block Party
23rd Ave Brewery, Neptune Fish Jerky.
30 FARM TO TABLE
Figs for the Pacific Northwest?
34 HOME + DESIGN
Reimagining the backyard shed; making the most of the tiny family cabin.
42 MIND + BODY
How Jadyn Edwards found European football.
THINK 46 STARTUP
A Boeing engineer’s next project—plant-based chicken.
48 MY WORKSPACE
Jennifer Kuhns, mosaic artist.
50 GAME CHANGER
28
Viva Farms’ small sustainable agriculture projects.
EXPLORE 70 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Marsh’s Free Museum, Long Beach.
72 ADVENTURE
48
Outdoors for All
Jennifer Kuhns
Barriers be gone for all people seeking outdoor adventure.
14 Editor’s Letter 15 1889 Online 86 Map of Washington 88 Until Next Time
COVER
photo by Stephen Matera (see Adventure, pg. 72)
10
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
76 LODGING
Casia Lodge & Ranch, Methow Valley.
72
78 TRIP PLANNER Roslyn and Cle Elum.
84 NW DESTINATION Monterey, California.
PEAK FUN IN THE PNW!
bellingham.org / plan
CONTRIBUTORS
RYN PFEUFFER Writer Seattle Pride Celebrates Fifty Years “As a queer femme with a trans partner, it’s never been more vital to stand up for our rights and visibility than right now. LGBTQ+ individuals of all identities have long thrived and existed under the queer umbrella, showing immense resilience despite adversity. Despite conservatives targeting trans people, drag queens and queer culture, this Pride month, I’m dedicated to celebrating LGBTQ+ joy (in Seattle and beyond) and spreading glitter wherever I go.” (pg. 52) Ryn Pfeuffer is a freelance lifestyle writer whose work has appeared in Kinkly, Men’s Health, Playboy, WIRED and The Washington Post over the past two decades. She lives in Seattle with her partner and rescue dog.
ELLEN SURREY Illustrator Musician
RACHEL GALLAHER Writer Startup
LAUREN KRAMER Writer Washington’s Water Shortage
“I love using bold, vibrant colors in my illustrations. So, when I got the chance to work on this piece about summer music festivals, I was thrilled to dive into some of my favorite color combinations. In addition to color, I’m always looking for fresh ways to weave texture and pattern into my work. It was especially fun creating a quintessential music festival outfit to complement the scene.” (pg. 20)
“I have been a vegetarian twice in my life. Once for a short stint in high school, and currently—a nearly twenty-year stretch kicked off by a DVD that someone from PETA handed me one day between classes at the University of Washington. (To be fair, I’m technically a pescatarian—it’s hard to live in Seattle and not enjoy seafood!) I avoided meat alternatives for years, as they were often rubbery and flavorless. The plant-based chicken from Rebellyous is different, and I love that they are trying to make vegetarianism accessible for all.” (pg. 46)
“It was fascinating and frightening researching the water shortage in Washington, a crisis that is already upon us and one whose future predictions are dire. Like many of us, I complain about the rain and drizzle in the Pacific Northwest, so it’s hard to come to terms with the fact that our water supply is running low. Unless we come up with rapid, effective solutions, everything from the salmon in our rivers to the agriculture we grow and our daily water consumption will face dramatic changes in the next twenty-five years.” (pg. 60)
Ellen Surrey is an illustrator who creates modern illustrations influenced by vintage children’s books and mid-century design. Her artwork has been featured in The New York Times, Los Angeles Times and, most recently, as USPS stamps.
12 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Rachel Gallaher is a freelance writer and editor living in Seattle. Her work has appeared in GRAY, Dwell, Architectural Digest, The Seattle Times and Azure, among other publications.
Lauren Kramer is a Bellinghambased freelance writer who was born in Cape Town, South Africa. She relishes raising a family in the Pacific Northwest and writes about social issues, food, travel and fascinating people.
EDITOR
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
BEERVANA COLUMNIST
Jackie Dodd
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Rachel Gallaher, Joni Kabana, Lauren Kramer, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ryn Pfeuffer, Ben Salmon, Corinne Whiting
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Jackie Dodd, James Harnois, Stephen Matera, Armand Nour, Bill Purcell, Rafael Soldi, Dain Susman
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Ellen Surrey
Headquarters
70 SW Century Dr. Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702
1627 NE 3rd St. Suite 300 Bend, OR 97701
www.1889mag.com/subscribe @1889washington
All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 13
FROM THE
EDITOR
IN THIS ISSUE of 1889, we look back over the more than 100-year history of the fight for human rights among the LGBTQ+ community. On the fiftieth anniversary of the Seattle Pride Week, we note that there has been legal progress in recent years—decriminalizing gay sex in 2003 and ratifying marriage equality in 2015, for example. At the same time, others have fought to roll back these basic human rights for queer people, effectively (unwittingly?) repealing the second paragraph of the United States Declaration of Independence. On page 52, Ryn Pfeuffer recounts the milestones of Washington LGBTQ+ celebrations and festivals since Fairyville in Pioneer Square in the early 1900s to present day. If you’re looking for a way to celebrate this summer, turn to this feature and start making plans. A companion piece to this feature begins on page 72, “Adventures for All.” This piece breaks down barriers to people of color and the LGBTQ+ community. Read about the many outfitters that specialize in finding safe and thrilling outdoor experiences for everyone. Nature could use more caretakers, cheerleaders and advocates these days. Another feature asks us the critical question, are we getting it right when it comes to water conservation? Last summer, one Washington county declared emergency drought conditions
14 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
and was forced to truck in water for residents and businesses. This summer, that count, that scarcity of water, is expected to grow, requiring more emergency response and driving up basic costs for residents. Turn to page 60 to understand how this happened and why drought will only grow until we take the necessary steps to overturn global warming. But let’s talk about a couple of chill people. Christie Lagally quit her job as a Boeing engineer to help solve a bigger problem—the absence of edible plant-based chicken. As the CEO of Rebellyous Foods, Lagally now makes delicious plant-based chicken nuggets and tenders for more than 200 school districts nationwide. See Startup on page 46. Another person on the chill spectrum is footballer Jadyn Edwards. A soccer player who made her way from Mill City kids leagues to playing on scholarship at University of New Mexico and then to professional soccer in Europe, Edwards is a beacon for young players wondering if their hard work will ever pay off. It can and does. Turn to page 42 to learn more. Most good things end with a nightcap, even figgy ones. The Figaro Sour (pg. 33) is an outcropping of the broader Farm to Table article about a fig grower in Onalaska. If that sounds latitudinally odd to you, you’re not alone. For this story (pg. 30), you’re going to need a drink.
1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington
YOUR PNW NEWSLETTER More Pacific Northwest, delivered to your inbox! Sign up for our Adventure Mail newsletter and get access to the latest Northwest getaways, giveaways and more. www.1889mag.com/1889-newsletter
SHOP LOCAL Stop by Local, our curated online shop of goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find outdoor gear, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1889 T-shirts, hats and other apparel. Buy local. Feel good. www.1889mag.com/shop
NEVER MISS AN ISSUE Read 1889 Washington’s Magazine and 1859 Oregon’s Magazine anywhere, on any device, with our digital edition. Follow us today on Issuu.com. www.bit.ly/statehoodmediadigital
WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/in-focus photo by Brenda J. Ross A rainbow of rocks at Rocky Point on Camano Island.
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
15
SAY WA? 18 FOOD + DRINK 26 FARM TO TABLE 30 HOME + DESIGN 34
pg. 20 Explore our guide to Washington’s summer festivals.
Anya Kochis/Day In Day Out
MIND + BODY 42
Enjoy Olympic Peninsula
• Explore • Taste
• Discover er v o c s i D mpic y l O e th ry Culina Loop
Jefferson County, Washington, serves up the most Olympic Coastal Cuisine found around the LOOP. Eat and Enjoy!
From Sea -to -Summit & Canal -to -Coast www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com
say wa?
Tidbits + To-dos
CAmark yo LEN ur DA R
written by Lauren Kramer
Lavender Harvest Days
Yakima Valley Tourism
The Yakima Valley is celebrating all things lavender with its Lavender Harvest Days at Selah Ridge Lavender Farm July 12-14. Visitors can create lavender bouquets and wreaths with fresh-cut lavender, watch oil distilling demonstrations and explore the farm’s handmade skin care line, including soaps, lotions, oils and scrubs. www.selahridgelavender farm.com
CA
ur R yo A k D ar m LEN
San Juan Island Artists’ Studio Tour
18
Twenty-three artists’ studios will be open to the public during the San Juan Island Artists’ Studio Tour on June 1-2. Visitors can follow a self-guided tour map to explore secluded home studios and secret gardens with spectacular island views. Among the sixty-six local artists whose work will be featured in the tour are those specializing in painting, sculpture, furniture, pottery, textiles, jewelry and wearable art.
F.R.O.G. Soap
www.sanjuanislandartists.com
www.frogsoap.net
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Soap lovers, look out for Bremerton’s F.R.O.G. Soap, particularly the Puget Sound body bars, which are wave-shaped soaps that combine seaweed, sand and water from the shores nearby. F.R.O.G. body and shampoo bars are free from chemicals and available in tantalizing scents such as vanilla honey chamomile, ginseng lemongrass, Himalayan sea salt, tea tree and lavender. Shop online or visit the store at 707 Pacific Ave. in Bremerton.
say wa?
r ou R k y DA ar m EN
CA
Visit Walla Walla
L
Blood of Gods Annual Merrymaking Walla Walla’s third Blood of Gods Annual Merrymaking on July 20 celebrates wine, music and art—with a heavy metal twist. The daylong event downtown includes a panel of speakers from the wine industry, a “merrymaking” session that showcases the work of artists and vendors, wine tasting and an evening concert. www.bit.ly/bloodofgodswallawalla
Spice Waala Chutney
Photo: Visit Bellingham
Bellewood Farms Barrel-Aged Gin For barrel-aged gin distilled from locally grown apples, try Bellewood Farms’ offering. The Whatcom Countybased apple orchard has a “farm-to-glass” distillery and is garnering accolades for the aromatic flavor of its botanical-infused gin. It has received gold awards from the San Francisco World Spirits Association and the International Tasting Institute.
If you’re seeking some pizzazz for your homemade meals, consider adding Spice Waala chutney. Seattle-based restaurateurs Uttam Mukherjee and Aakanksha Sinha have created two varieties: green chutney made with cilantro, onion, garlic and chili peppers, and brown chutney, with tamarind and cilantro. Both can be used as dipping sauces, salad dressings or marinades, and they’re available at Spice Waala Indian Restaurant in Seattle and at Apna Bazar in Bellevue, Redmond, Bothell and Sammamish.
www.bellewoodfarms.com
www.spicewaala.com
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
19
say wa?
Musician
Your Guide to Summer
MUSIC FESTIVALS Soak in the sun and sounds of live music at these ten events around Washington written by Ben Salmon | illustration by Ellen Surrey
THERE’S NO SHORTAGE of fun things to do in Washington during the summer, and that includes music festivals, which give folks from Seattle to Spokane and points in between a chance to gather under the sun and enjoy a whole bunch of live music. Here are ten fests happening across the state that deserve a spot on your calendar of things to do this summer. 20 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
UnTamed. UnScripted. UnBelievable. If you have an unparalleled appetite for pursuing adventure, let us curate the journey of a lifetime. Our small ships carry just 22 – 86 guests allowing them to gain access to tiny coves and up-close views that you won’t experience on large ships. Kayak in a quiet cove eyed by an American Bald Eagle. Beachcomb rocky shores uncovering layers of tiny ecosystems. Snorkel with playful sea lions. Our onboard entertainment doesn’t include Las Vegas style shows, instead calving glaciers, breaching whales, and Northern Lights take center stage. Alaska
Galápagos
Hawaii
Call our Adventure Specialists today to learn more about early-booking savings and begin the adventure of a lifetime! 888-862-8881 | uncruise.com
Mexico
Timber!
say wa?
The three-day Timber! music festival in Carnation is in its tenth year.
GONE COUNTRY Watershed Central Washington is home to the world-renowned concert venue The Gorge Amphitheatre, where you can camp under the stars at night and spend your days watching your favorite musicians perform against the gorgeous backdrop of the Columbia River. On the first weekend of August, mainstream country will fill the air as the Watershed festival returns for its twelfth year. Dates: August 2-4
Dates: June 6-9 Location: Jim Sprick Community Park, Naches Lineup highlights: The White Buffalo, Blitzen Trapper, James Otto, Rob Leines, Hillstomp More info: www.chinookfest.com
Location: The Gorge Amphitheatre, George
INDIE VIBES
Lineup highlights: Old Dominion, Luke Bryan, Hardy, Maddie & Tae, Riley Green, Terri Clark
Timber!
More info: www.watershedfest.com
Chinook Fest Tucked into a park in tiny Naches, near Yakima, is a music festival with a big heart. Since launching in 2012, Chinook Fest has
22
grown from a small, one-day gathering to a multiday festival featuring big names from the world of folk-rock and Americana. In addition to the music, there’s camping and RV parking, outdoor fun and a meadow for sound baths and yoga.
Now in its tenth year, Timber! is an Indigenous-owned, three-day music festival nestled into densely forested land at the confluence of the Tolt and Snoqualmie rivers. Besides taking in the lineup of excellent indie acts, you can sign up for activities organized around bat sighting, birding, painting, hiking, biking and more.
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Special shows and a barn for kids make it family-friendly! Date: July 25-27 Location: Tolt-MacDonald Park, Carnation Lineup highlights: Ty Segall, Deer Tick, Y La Bamba, Margo Cilker, Kimya Dawson More info: www.timbermusicfest.com
Thing There’s something for everyone at Thing, where your festival pass includes admission to an on-site amusement park, petting zoos and a brewery. But the main draw is the eclectic lineup, which features both established and up-and-coming artists from the worlds of indie rock, hip-hop, electronic music, folk, funk, rock ‘n’ roll and more. Plus a lantern parade each night! Date: August 9-11 Location: Remlinger Farms, Carnation Lineup highlights: St. Vincent, Spoon, Killer Mike, Ethel Cain, Black Pumas, Shakey Graves More info: www.thingnw.org
say wa?
BIG CITY FUN
BEATS ‘N’ BASS
Capitol Hill Block Party
Beyond Wonderland
Set in the busy Pike/Pine corridor at the heart of Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood, the Block Party seems to get cooler every year. The headliners here aren’t necessarily household names, but fast-rising pop, hip-hop and EDM artists who could be exactly that in a few years. Founded in 1997, CHBP has grown into a major street party befitting the Northwest’s biggest city.
At Beyond Wonderland, they say, you are the headliner. That means you say hello to fellow fest-goers. You respect the space and spread love. And you dance, dance, dance amid a fantastical setting inspired by Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. What’s that sound you hear? It’s three days of eclectic electronic music echoing through the canyons under stunning sunsets.
Dates: July 19-21
Dates: June 22-23
Location: Capitol Hill, Seattle Lineup highlights: Remi Wolf, Chappel Roan, Still Woozy, Girl Talk, Kaytranada More info: www.capitolhillblockparty.com
Location: The Gorge Amphitheatre, George Lineup highlights: Zedd, Rezz, Alison Wonderland, Dillon Francis, Mellodeath, Adventure Club More info: www.pnw.beyondwonderland.com
Blastfest
Day In Day Out
Here’s a cool thing: Blastfest is an event focused on Afrobeats, which isn’t really one distinct style, but an umbrella term for the fusion of sounds in popular music coming out of West Africa. Afrobeats is massively popular worldwide, and Seattle yet again finds itself on the cutting edge of pop music with this dedicated festival, headlined by Davido, one of the giants of the genre. Dates: July 27
Photos, clockwise from left: Eric Tra/Day In Day Out, Blastfest, Tri Town Get Down
Location: Seattle Center, Seattle
Day In Day Out Held at Fisher Green Pavilion in the shadow of the Space Needle, Day In Day Out has its finger on the pulse of pop music, with a lineup that showcases big stars, critical faves, DJ sets and a bunch of Next Big Things ready to rise from the underground. The festival sold out last year, so this year organizers are adding a third day of fun to be had smack dab in the heart of Seattle.
Lineup highlights: Davido, Ayra Starr, Shallipopi, Musa Keys, Sarz More info: www.blastmusicfest.com
Tri Town Get Down
FUN FESTS OUT EAST Tri Town Get Down Why should the I-5 corridor and The Gorge have all the fun? In the Tri-Cities, they’re throwing the Tri Town Get Down, a three-day gathering of more than 100 musical acts, plus “fusions,” or minifestivals themed around Latin culture, science, food, agriculture, the music industry and beer, wine and spirits. They say it’s Eastern Washington’s largest music festival, and it looks like it! Dates: June 7-9 Location: John Dam Plaza, Richland Lineup highlights: Paul Russell, Kyle, Hobo Johnson, Sam Lachow, Scott Pemberton More info: www.tritowngetdown.com
Outlaw Music Festival This is technically a tour that is stopping in Spokane (and at The Gorge the next day), but the lineup is too stacked to ignore: two of the finest songwriters of the past century—Bob Dylan and Willie Nelson—plus John Mellencamp, who is no slouch himself. It’s all going down at Spokane’s new downtown multisport stadium, home to the city’s two pro soccer teams.
Dates: July 12-14
Dates: August 9
Location: Seattle Center, Seattle
Location: One Spokane Stadium, Spokane
Lineup highlights: Carly Rae Jepsen, Bleachers, The Head and the Heart, Suki Waterhouse
Lineup highlights: Willie Nelson & Family, Bob Dylan, John Mellencamp, Brittney Spencer
More info: www.dayindayoutfest.com
Blastfest
More info: www.blackbirdpresents.com
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
23
say wa?
Bibliophile
American Fever Dream Acclaimed bestseller exposes sinister American secrets, historic heroics and disturbing modern parallels SEATTLE NATIVE Timothy Egan’s latest book is A Fever in the Heartland—The Ku Klux Klan’s Plot to Take Over America and the Woman Who Stopped Them. This New York Times bestseller remarkably reveals much of the dark side of modern life through a riveting page-turner of an exposé from a hundred years ago. Tell us about writing this book. When you write a book like this, you just live the story. You’re totally immersed. And when it’s history, you’re time traveling, so I had to live the 1920s for three years. It’s a really interesting period, exactly a hundred years ago, when all this took place, which mischaracterizes the Gatsby era. I remember my grandmother growing up on the fringes of Seattle— she was a flapper in the 1920s. She talked about how she’d go out, drinking bootleg whiskey and dancing all night to Black jazz—that was the Jazz Age. But what you look for as a storywriter is a new story. So, there was Prohibition, women got the vote, but it was also by far the absolute peak of America’s oldest domestic terror organization. There’s this counter narrative. There’s a scene in the book where these two come together. Louis Armstrong cuts his first record, the first Black jazz record in Richmond, Indiana. On the same day is the largest Ku Klux Klan rally in their history—40,000 people—mainstream society giving itself over to hate. Here’s enlightenment, jazz music, fresh creativity. And then there’s retrograde hatred, xenophobia. 24
Can you discuss the parallels between then and now? Of course, I never mention a certain ex-President. You don’t have to. I like to tell stories that are largely unknown, but that have some resonance to today, that tell us something about ourselves. Unfortunately, this is a dark side of ourselves, of the American character. The disappointment for me was how this quintessential American state, Indiana, gave itself over to a con man, a guy who was not just a serial liar, a fraud, a wife abuser who deserted his family and left his kid and wife alone in Oklahoma, a raging alcoholic who was against Prohibition and was a rapist. And this entire state is following this guy, D. C. Stephenson. He was also a brilliant man, in one respect. He saw that if you played to people’s fears, said things that they wanted to hear, give a simple solution for the things that were going on, you could attract a large following, and so those are the parallels to America today, unfortunately. I’m generally an optimist. I believe in the American idea, which is extraordinary—that we’re not tribal. We’re not based on one religion. But we have these periods where we
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Ruth Fremson
interview by Cathy Carroll
Seattle journalist and Pulitzer Prize recipient Timothy Egan mines truth and hope from a 100-year-old national disgrace.
give ourselves over to a grifter and a con man and our baser instincts. Lincoln talked about our better angels. On the other shoulder is our base instinct. What is the significance of Madge Oberholtzer? I don’t want to just tell a dark story, but one also with some human light and goodness. All these victims of D. C. Stephenson had refused to go to the cops. They were afraid of him. He said, ‘I am the law,’ and he was the law. Cops were Klansmen, judges were Klansmen, prosecutors were Klansmen. Madge, alone on her deathbed, chose to go after this bastard, and her words from beyond the grave are what finally brought him down. She’s incredibly heroic, and heroes like Madge get written out of the story. God—there at least should be a plaque somewhere commemorating Madge Oberholtzer, who brought down the Klan when they were on the verge of taking over the White House. They had six million Klansmen around the U.S., a handful of senators, congressmen, governors in Oregon, Colorado, Texas, Indiana, and this one woman on her deathbed was heroic. I was drawn to her and did everything I could to bring her to life.
Experience the power of the North Cascades!
Join us for Diablo Lake morning and afternoon tours! Start your adventure at skagittours.com or call (360) 854-2589.
food + drink
Photo: Charina Pitzel
Beervana
Small Business, Big Dreams written and photographed by Jackie Dodd
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Matthew Gomez, Dark Room / SEATTLE
Teacher’s Pet Seattle’s Dark Room is a craft cocktail bar specializing in cool, obscure and worldly spirits, with Korean-based small plates. This drink was created to honor the bar Teachers Lounge, which previously occupied Dark Room’s location and was a staple in the Greenwood neighborhood for almost ten years.
• 11/2 ounces Coquerel Calvados (apple brandy) • 3/4 ounce Cocchi Rosa (aromatized wine) • 1/2 ounce Braulio (amaro) • 1/4 ounce Giffard crème de cacao (chocolate liqueur) • 1 dash Angostura bitters • 1 dash Fee Brothers black walnut bitters • Absinthe, to coat glass • Apple slice, to garnish Place all ingredients except absinthe into a mixing glass, add ice and stir for 15 seconds. Add a few drops of absinthe to an empty glass, and swirl around to coat the inside of the glass. Dump excess. Add ice to glass, preferably a large cube. Strain the cocktail into the prepped glass. Garnish with an apple slice on top of the ice cube.
“IT’S BEEN A JOURNEY—this is the first month we’ve been profitable, and that’s really nice to see, see that it’s all working,” David Dixon, one of three owners of 23rd Ave Brewery, reflected after nearly two years of owning and operating a small brewery, jumping headfirst with his co-owners into a world none of them had any previous experience with. 23rd Ave Brewery sits on a heavily trafficked section of Seattle’s Central District. Its modest exterior belies the inviting space within. Inside is space that speaks to the owners’ drive to bring up the community while making great beer, the walls functioning as a makeshift gallery for local Black artists, 100 percent of the money from the sales going to the artists themselves. The team does it all themselves, from handmaking the bar and painting the walls, to taking turns manning each shift, making all the beer and cleaning the kegs. The journey to this singular space wasn’t straightforward. Mario Savage, along with brothers David and James Dixon, shared a childhood rooted in this section of Seattle. Coming together to brew beer was a result of the trio’s longing for connection amid their hectic lives filled with work, family responsibilities and raising children. What initially began as the product of a simple homebrewing kit and a tasting session during a family gathering soon kindled the flame of an entrepreneurial dream. This dream became a reality when they opened a cozy but vibrant brewery space on Juneteenth of 2022. From a to-go-only business in the beginning months to one that hosts a rotating list of events so packed it’s standing room only most nights, it’s safe to say David Dixon is right—it’s working. “We have plans to make a blackberry IPA because that’s just Seattle in the summer,” he said. “As a kid, we would all go pick blackberries by the side of the road
26 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
David Dixon runs 23rd Ave Brewery in Seattle with his brother James Dixon and friend Mario Savage.
23RD AVE BREWERY
2313 S. JACKSON ST. SEATTLE www.23rd-ave-brewery.square.site What to Know: • Open Thursday-Sunday • Dog-friendly
and then go home and make a blackberry pie.” Dixon talks about the list of beers he plans to make as they grow, the team’s eyes already seeking out a bigger space, one that can accommodate a larger system than their current setup that needs to run constantly to keep up with demand. As the business expands cautiously, not taking on any debt in the process with a vision to expand comfortably and wisely into the next phase, it’s a reminder for patrons of how to support a small but growing craft brewery. First, of course, is the obvious: buy their beer. But there is more you can do. Ask for their beer when you don’t see it on tap at taprooms, restaurants and local markets. If you are on social media, follow the accounts of your favorite small breweries and share their content. If you fancy yourself a photographer or content creator, consider sharing your content with your favorite little craft brewery. When a business is small, it’s like a ship—all hands on deck to make the magic work. Even when you aren’t on the ship, lend a hand if you can, and you’ll be thanked with a lifetime of incredible beer.
Project is funded totally or in part, as applicable, by the Okanogan County Hotel/Motel Lodging Tax Fund
FREE MAPS AND GUIDES!
Call 888.431.3080, Scan the QR Code, or visit OkanoganCountry.com to start planning your adventure today!
Spectacle Lake Resort
is your stop for a luxury stay with diverse outdoor recreation. From some of the best fishing in Eastern Washington to water skiing, hiking, or just plan relaxing there’s some fun for everyone. Book your stay today! Phone: 509-223-3433 Email: spectaclelake@okcom.org Website: SpectacleLakeResort.com
CRAVINGS SLUSHIES WITH AN EDGE LaPierre Farms & Winery in Zillah offers two wine-based slushies great for a hot summer’s day. Its red wine slushie uses the winery’s signature red wine to deliver a refreshing, fruity slushy, while the frozé slushy, made with a dry, French-style rosé, is light and crisp. 4440 HIGHLAND DR. ZILLAH www.lapierrefarms.com
Neptune Snacks
GELATO
Marine scientist-turned-food entrepreneur Nick Mendoza launched sustainable seafood jerky, Neptune.
Gastronomy
Neptune Fish Jerky written by Lauren Kramer NICK MENDOZA, the 34-year-old founder of Neptune Fish Jerky, was a marine scientist determined to turn the tides on sustainably sourced, protein-rich snacks when he founded his seafood jerky company in Seattle four years ago. The company sells wild Alaska pollock jerky in cracked pepper and sweet ginger citrus flavors, and Pacific rockfish in spicy Cajun and sea salt and juniper flavors. The 2.25-ounce packages are available at major and small grocery stores nationwide, as well as through online retailers. “There’s so much opportunity to recover and revitalize fisheries that historically weren’t well managed,” Mendoza said. “We sourced our fish based on a record of great, science-based fisheries management and local harvests.” The wild Alaska pollock fishery is one of the top two MSC-certified fisheries worldwide and has a fifth of the carbon footprint of a Beyond Burger, while the rockfish, also MSC-certified, is sourced from Washington, Oregon and California. These carbon-friendly, healthy snacks are delicious, on-the-go treats that are high in protein, low-fat, shelf-stable and portable. And Mendoza is just getting started. “Our hope is to become the flagship brand for sustainable ocean snacks, a category where there’s a real lack of healthy, responsibly sourced choices for snacks on-the-go,” he said. Look out for the original flavor, launching in June. 1752 NORTHWEST MARKET ST., #4415 SEATTLE www.neptunesnacks.com
28 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
There are some situations where Olympia’s famous fog is a perfect antidote, and that’s when it’s served at Sofie’s Scoops Gelateria. Their “Oly-Fog” flavor is a combination of black tea, rose petals and vanilla. This small-batch gelato shop is an Olympia favorite where gelato is made using locally produced milk. Other popular scoops are vanilla huckleberry crisp, salty butterscotch and key lime pie. 222 CAPITOL WAY N., SUITE 116 OLYMPIA www.sofiesscoops.com
NEW ZEALAND-STYLE ICE CREAM If you’ve never tried New Zealand-style ice cream, where a scoop of ice cream is blended with a scoop of fruit, head to Welly’s Real Fruit Ice Cream in the Port Angeles Wharf. The ice cream shop has five fruity flavors— with all fruit sourced in Washington—featuring sweet cream or dairy-free ice cream. Don’t leave without sampling its other unique scoops, such as hokey pokey, licorice and London fog. 115 E. RAILROAD AVE. PORT ANGELES www.wellysicecream.com
ICE CREAM + POPSICLES In Pasco, locally owned Monarca Ice Cream Parlor offers Michoacan-style ice cream, as well as cream popsicles, water-based popsicles, sugar-free popsicles and shaved ice. Their unique assortment of flavors includes guava, mamey fruit, rose petals, pine nut, soursop and sweet milk curd—along with all the usual flavors. 1830 W. COURT ST. PASCO www.monarcaicecream.net
BEST PLACES FOR
SALADS + BOWLS CAFE WYLDE Cafe Wylde in Everett has two tantalizing bowls on offer: The Bowl mixes quinoa with pea sprouts, gingered carrots, avocado, seaweed, croutons and tahini sauce, while the Havana Bowl features jackfruit on quinoa and greens, radish, avocado and peppers, spiced with cashew crème, peach habanero sauce and mango salsa.
Photos: Arrowleaf Bistro
food + drink
2918 HOYT AVE. EVERETT www.cafewylde.com
HATTAWAY’S ON ALDER In Walla Walla, Hattaway’s on Alder features a salad full of delicate flavor and an innovative combination of ingredients. Its celery parmesan salad is a bowl of arugula, parmigiano reggiano, mission figs poached in white wine and local hazelnuts, drizzled with lemon vinaigrette. Pair it with a “spring thyme” mocktail, and you’re on your way to heaven! 125 W. ALDER ST. WALLA WALLA www.hattawaysonalder.com
MCGLINN’S PUBLIC HOUSE McGlinn’s Public House in Wenatchee has several scrumptious salads on its menu. The Grilled Heart of Romaine combines romaine with steak strips, blue cheese, pistachio and pickled onion, while the Superfood features blueberries, beet, avocado, granola, radish, goat cheese and pistachio with a sesame vinaigrette.
The small Arrowleaf Bistro in Winthrop is a found culinary jewel.
Dining
Arrowleaf Bistro written by Lauren Kramer
The Heartland Salad at 1908 BBQ & Bourbon in Twisp is a surprise in a restaurant known for its slow-cooked brisket and pork dishes. This filling, wholesome salad combines emmer farro, from Bluebird Grain Farms in Winthrop, with sugar bee apples, fennel, arugula, pecans and carrots, tossed in a light carrot and ginger dressing.
YOU WOULDN’T expect fine dining in Winthrop, but that’s just what you get at Arrowleaf Bistro—only, with no dress code. The longstanding bistro is a local favorite that’s been around eighteen years but came under new ownership in 2022 when Sophia Boesenberg took the helm as chef-owner. An accomplished chef, she added her international culinary style to the menu, keeping its commitment to local Methow Valley sourcing. The menu changes every six weeks, but glance at it any time of year and you can tell immediately that this food has flair. We loved the roasted cauliflower appetizer, served with pistachio dukka, tahini and roasted garlic yogurt, a combination that has you licking the plate clean. The roasted lamb rack with grain salad was a tender bite of heaven, while the chicken in lemon wine sauce was so delicious I was tempted to drink the sauce straight from the bowl. Boesenberg is a whiz in the kitchen, whether she’s baking dinner buns or prepping her large assortment of ice cream and sorbet. The night we visited, flavors included brown butter, ginger caramel swirl, cranberry and rhubarb grapefruit. Those competed with a hot fudge and tahini skillet cake, carrot and fennel seed cake and citrus pavlova—making it a ridiculously challenging choice. Reservations are advisable at this intimate, thirty-seat restaurant.
101 GLOVER ST. N. TWISP www.1908bbqtwisp.com
207 WHITE AVE. WINTHROP www.arrowleafbistro.com
111 ORONDO AVE. WENATCHEE www.mcglinns.com
1908 BBQ & BOURBON
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 29
farm to table
Co-owner Michael Dolan stands in one of the greenhouses at Burnt Ridge Nursery & Orchards near Onalaska.
30 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Michael Dolan examines the fig trees at Burnt Ridge Nursery & Orchards in May.
Farm to Table
The Fig Files One of nature’s sweetest treats can be grown— and enjoyed—right here in Washington written by Corinne Whiting | photography by Bill Purcell FIGS HAVE BEEN with us since the dawn of humanity. Ancient Greek and Roman civilizations associated the potentially first cultivated crop with fertility, and even regarded the fig tree as sacred. They’re said to have been consumed by early Olympic athletes in training and to have been Cleopatra’s favorite fruit. Rich in anti-inflammatory antioxidants and high in fiber, the sweet product resembles a teardrop and is filled with hundreds of tiny edible seeds. Michael Dolan, co-owner (along with his wife, Carolyn) of Onalaska’s 20-acre Burnt Ridge Nursery & Orchards, explains that figs are easy to grow from cuttings. In fact, they’re one of the first crops he grew when starting the nursery in 1980. “When an index of fig varieties was compiled in California in 1955, over 800 varieties were noted,” he said. “Since then, the list of known varieties in the U.S. has more than doubled.” As a species native to hot, dry climates—like in the Middle East—most varieties are not adapted to Washington. “It is too cold in Eastern Washington to grow them without protection JUNE | JULY 2024
in winter,” he said. “Western Washington lacks enough summer heat to ripen most varieties.” At Burnt Ridge, they’ve spent forty-four years evaluating varieties for flavor, hardiness and the ability to ripen at their 1,000-foot elevation site in the foothills of the Cascades, which features an exquisite view of Mount St. Helens. “One variety, Gillette, does well but has such a mediocre flavor that we don’t bother harvesting or propagating it,” Dolan said. “The clear winner thus far for hardiness and flavor is Desert King—a greenskinned fig with red flesh. Other dependable varieties can include Italian Honey, Violette Du Bordeaux and Beall.” Dolan noted that the Olympian fig, a tree fittingly discovered in Olympia, proves an excellent choice in the Puget Sound region, but a bit tender at their specific location. Little Ruby, LSU Purple and Violette du Bordeaux are natural dwarfs, suited for container culture, and can be grown on a patio or balcony. In Eastern Washington, Dolan advises growing 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 31
ABOVE Michael and Carolyn Dolan own Burnt Ridge Nursery & Orchards. BELOW, FROM TOP Olympian figs are one variety found at Burnt Ridge. The Dolans also produce jams, hard cider and more—look for them at the Olympia Farmers Market. A dependable variety for the Pacific Northwest, the ripe Desert King fig has green skin and red flesh.
Burnt Ridge Nursery
these varieties in a pot with big drainage holes; the pot can be buried in a spring garden and dug up in fall. “When all leaves are removed from the first frost, the dormant plant can then be stored in a pumphouse or garage, as it needs no light when dormant—only protection from cold weather below about 10 degrees Fahrenheit,” he said. “They can be brought in to a sunny window in late winter or early spring to get an early start, or just planted out the following spring.” All of Burnt Ridge’s fig varieties are self-pollinating, can easily grow organically and don’t encounter any disease issues or insect problems. “To harvest, figs should be plump, soft and hanging down,” Dolan advised. “Storebought figs, when you can find them, are harvested a bit under-ripe for shipping and storage. They never achieve the level of ripeness, sweetness and flavor of a homegrown one in a sunny location.” Dolan believes figs are best when eaten fresh—by themselves or with contrasting flavors. “A split-in-half fig is great combined with walnuts or a strong cheese,” he said. “Or for meat lovers, a slice of prosciutto. They make delicious jam or tarts, too!” During summer months, the Burnt Ridge team sells fresh figs at their Olympia Farmers Market stand. About a dozen varieties of fig trees can be purchased through their website, too. Eric Johnson, who curates the bar program at several Piatti Italian restaurant locations, typically likes fresh Black Mission figs when they pop up at farmers markets near his home around 32 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
October. Aside from those, fig marmalade is his year-round staple. “For bar use, we really want concentrated fruit flavor,” he said, “so a fig jam is better for drinks, though munching fresh ones while making drinks is perfectly civilized.” John Wahlke, chef and general manager at Seattle’s Fremont Mischief Distillery, prefers roasting figs. “I enjoy cooking them down in a nice port wine for sauces or jams, fermenting them for shrubs in cocktails and even putting a nice brûlée on them for cocktail or dessert garnishes,” he said. Wahlke always tries to pick his figs while still a bit firm, as they can turn quickly. For roasting, he tends to go a little under-ripe, so that it still has some bite and body after cooking. Ripe or just under is perfect for dehydrating or serving fresh, he said. “Once they start to get soft, I usually will turn to macerating, making into a shrub, jams or even ice cream!” He likes the second fall crop simply because more fig dishes are on his mind when the leaves begin to turn. Celeste figs are among his favorite as being “very sweet and juicy and beautiful fresh in dishes as well.” Wahlke always encourages sourcing from local growers, which are plentiful in Washington. “But in many Seattle neighborhoods, there are a variety of old fig trees that will produce a lot of figs,” he said. “So when you see one in a neighbor’s, a friend’s or even a random yard, try to make friends. Compliment the tree, and they will most likely tell you to come back and take as many as you’d like before the birds get to them!”
farm to table
Washington Recipes
Fig and Goat Cheese Bites.
How to Go Big With Local Figs Fig and Goat Cheese Bites
Fremont Mischief Distillery / SEATTLE John Wahlke MAKES 1 DOZEN FOR THE WHIPPED GOAT CHÈVRE MIXTURE • 2 ounces goat chèvre • 1 ounce cream cheese • 1 teaspoon fresh chive, finely sliced • 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped • 1/2 teaspoon fresh black pepper, cracked • Pinch salt • Zest from 1/2 lemon • Optional: fig meat
FOR THE CANDIED GINGER • 2 ounces fresh ginger • 1 cup water • 1 cup sugar + 1 cup sugar FOR SERVING • 6 figs, halved and scooped • 3 ounces whipped goat chèvre mixture • 12 pieces candied ginger, sliced • 3 slices crispy capicola (or desired cured meat) • Chervil sprigs, for garnish FOR THE WHIPPED GOAT CHÈVRE MIXTURE Add all ingredients into a food processor and blend until smooth. Place in a pastry bag with the desired tip. Optional: Add scooped fig meat before blending. FOR THE CRISPY CAPICOLA Preheat oven to 325 degrees. On a sheet tray, lay parchment paper and the sliced meats. Add another piece of parchment paper and a tray on top to keep flat. Place in the oven for approximately 12 minutes or until crispy. Allow to cool completely on paper towels or a cooling rack before use or before storing.
Fremont Mischief Distillery
FOR THE CRISPY CAPICOLA • 3 slices capicola, thin cut
FOR THE CANDIED GINGER Peel ginger, and cut into small chunks or slices. Boil water, then add 1 cup sugar. Stir until dissolved. Add the ginger. Cook on medium for about 10 minutes or until ginger is softened and becomes translucent. Remove ginger from liquid and drain. Add the pieces of ginger to the remaining sugar. Toss and cover completely. Store in the sugar until ready to use. TO ASSEMBLE Shave two opposite sides of each fig to create a flat surface. Slice each fig in half, scoop out some of the meat with a small melon baller and set aside. Lay the figs out on their sides on a tray. Pipe in your goat chèvre mixture. Add the sliced candied ginger and a piece of crispy capicola. Garnish with chervil and serve.
Figaro Sour
Piatti / SEATTLE Eric Johnson SERVES 1 • 1½ ounces 100 proof rye • ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice • ½ ounce 1:1 simple syrup • 2 dashes aromatic bitters • 1 full bar spoon of fig jam • 1 rosemary sprig, for garnish • Orange zest, for garnish Shake all ingredients except rosemary and orange, and double strain over a large cut ice cube. Garnish with rosemary sprig and orange zest.
Rafael Soldi
home + design
34 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
home + design
Backyard Fun From a bunkhouse to a do-it-all shed, these Washington backyard projects expand life at home written by Melissa Dalton SEATTLE
This Backyard Shed is an Office, Gym and Extra Hang Spot During BBQs
The backyard shed can be a changeling that can accommodate an office, yoga, arts or a respite from the family.
IN 2018, the owners of this classic Seattle Craftsman in the Madrona neighborhood wrapped up an extensive, top-to-bottom remodel, which included an enlarged kitchen with a small desk, covered outdoor spaces, a finished basement for the kids to play and a newly landscaped backyard with a shed. Then came the pandemic. The parents soon decided that they needed their own place to retreat while at home and started eyeing the backyard shed. “It was a complimentary design to the house, but a very simple box with a door,” said Ian Butcher, architect and founding partner of Best Practice Architecture, who guided the couple’s main remodel and returned to maximize their outbuilding into a multipurpose studio. “They wanted to revise the shed to incorporate an office, and then also have a place where they could exercise.” Butcher configured the 217-square-foot interior to contain, not just the much-needed desk, but storage for a random assortment of things, like wine, road bikes and children’s skis, as well as a dedicated spot for yoga. The interior design was kept simple, so as not to clutter the small footprint, and choices for the material palette cost effective. Butcher specified beech plywood for the custom cabinetry and ceiling. That light wood is contrasted with an inky black rubber mat for the floor, opposite wall and corner for hanging bikes. The mat was chosen for its functionality, in order to cushion movement and protect the wall from scuffs, but also its “dense blackness.” “It makes the plywood really pop,” said Butcher, noting that using the material in a monochromatic fashion is “a more volumetric effect rather than decorative.” When all the doors are closed, the desk niche looks like any other cabinet, but offers a “little surprise” when opened, thanks to an interior covered in mint green, an accent color in the main house. At the opposite end of the room, a large accordion window overlooks the garden, JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 35
Photos: Rafael Soldi
home + design
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT You can account for many needs with the right configuration of cabinets. An accordion window spans a larger space and adds interest in this Seattle backyard shed. Work and recreation co-exist in well-planned small spaces.
making for a pretty backdrop for yoga or Zoom calls, and a custom concrete bench is flush with the sill. “That can be a spot for one of their children to read while dad is wrapping up work, or guests can come in from the BBQ and have a private conversation,” said Butcher. And since finishing up in 2021, the clients use it all the time, whether for work, winding down or to grab a bottle of wine from the mini fridge for happy hour on the patio. GUEMES ISLAND
A Compact Bunkhouse Complements a Century-Old Log Cabin Tucked among the trees along the banks of Guemes Island, you might just catch a glimpse of Pamela Austin’s log cabin from the water. “If you don’t know it’s there, you can’t see it,” said Austin. According to the neighbors, the small cabin has sat in the same spot since the 1940s. Before that, it was built on Lopez Island about 100 years ago, then disassembled, and floated over to this one. By the time Austin bought it in 2000, it was “moldy 36 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
and mice infested,” said Austin. “But I could see that it would be a really simple place. Nothing precious. The kids could run in with sandy feet and nothing would get hurt.” Austin and her then husband cleaned it up, getting rid of the mice, and keeping much of the rest as is. At 450 square feet, the cabin is one room, with a fireplace at one end and kitchen at the other, and a built-in bed nook. “When the kids were little, we just put them on cots, and we were all together as a family,” said Austin. “Well, my kids are grown now and married and sleeping on a cot isn’t going to cut it.” Not wanting family gatherings on the island to end because of a lack of sleeping accommodations, Austin reached out to Seattle-based SHED Architecture & Design for a solution: a petite, two-story bunkhouse that can sleep up to eleven, with a bathroom that handles multiple users, a built-in desk for emergency work sessions and a covered porch. A kitchenette and small communal hangout space ensures much of the gathering and cooking still happens at the main cabin, and at 590 square feet, the new building preserves as
UNWIND IN SMALL TOWN SPLENDOR
UnwindGigHarbor.com
home + design
Pamela Austin’s bunkhouse on Guemes Island prioritizes space for family gatherings.
38 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Photos: Dain Susman
home + design
ABOVE A custom couch beneath a skylight makes for a perfect reading room on cloudy days. AT LEFT, FROM TOP The bunkhouse kitchenette is simple but functional. A stainless steel countertop and backsplash in the bathroom make for easy cleanup. Plywood construction brings a healthy, biophilic feel to the sleeping area.
much of the surrounding property as possible. “The whole point was to keep things simple and small,” said Austin. SHED sited the bunkhouse so that it mirrors the cabin’s position, with the entrance facing the drive and a massive skylight over the couch capturing views of the Bellingham Channel over the cabin roof. With Disdero log cabin siding on the lower portion and tongue and groove rough-sawn western red cedar ship cladding above, the exterior echoes the cabin and the dark stain blends into the trees, which were undisturbed during construction. Inside, the materials were all chosen for their low-maintenance qualities, from the custom stainless-steel counter in the bathroom, to the plywood covered walls and built-in furniture, to the Marmoleum floor in the kitchenette. Interior designer Jennie Gruss helped Austin pick out textiles and colorful accents. Now, thanks to the bunkhouse, the beloved cabin is still much loved for making new family memories, from hosting Austin’s August birthday weekend featuring lots of fresh crab, to holiday festivities for Thanksgiving and Christmas. “We wanted to stay true to this 100-year-old structure that really is so important to the site,” said SHED architect Georgine Botha. “And create a space that Pamela’s children could still continue to come back to with their own families.”
“The whole point was to keep things simple and small.” — Pamela Austin, homeowner
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 39
home + design
DIY
Outdoor Privacy Screen A PRIVACY SCREEN is a great solution to common backyard problems, as you can use it to divert views from the street or neighbors, and conceal ugly but necessary components—like the trash bins or an air conditioner. It also adds a little decorative element and a sense of enclosure, defining “outdoor rooms” without the hassle of installing a whole fence, which can be subject to local building code. If you add a planter box to the bottom of the screen, like this tutorial suggests, it can be accented with plants and climbing vines. Plus, the project only takes a weekend.
2
MATERIAL MATTERS First, decide what you’d like to build the screen out of: wood, metal or a combination of both. To keep it simple, this tutorial is a minimalist design constructed of wood for both screen and planter, but consider it a beginner’s template depending on your aesthetic and skill level. For instance, the screen can be composed of metal sheets with pre-punched designs (check online retailers for possibilities) or metal mesh and framed at the edges with wood. Or, insert a prefabricated wood lattice from a hardware store, or compose a pattern out of cedar boards that echoes the existing fencing on your property.
dirt, after all.) Move the planter to the chosen location, and make sure it’s level before proceeding. ADD THE SCREEN FRAME Cut pressure-treated 2x4s into three 6-foot-high pieces. Attach these to the back of the box an equal distance apart, with one flush with either end. Cut two pieces to be set horizontally between these posts, flush with the top of the posts, to complete the backing frame. Finish the screen with a material of your choice, such as prefabricated metal panels, cedar
4
STABILIZE AND PLANT Depending on winds in your location and the overall height of the screen, you may want to further stabilize the installation by sinking a metal rod into the ground and bolting it to the inside wall of the planter. Fill the planter with potting soil, and start planting. Note: Climbing plants work especially well with this project to create a “green wall.”
BUILD THE PLANTER This construction is similar to a raised garden bed—choose the height according to your needs. Cut pressure-treated 2x4s into four 2-foot pieces for the side walls and four 4-foot pieces for the front and back. Stack the boards two high, and screw together. Attach interior corner supports, and leave the bottom open for stability. (It will be filled with
STEP 2: Construct the planter box walls and attach interior corner supports.
40
2x4s, wood lattice or a staggered pattern of 1x2s and 2x4s, attaching these elements securely to the frame.
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
STEP 3: Attach three 6-foot 2x4s vertically to the back of the planter. Attach two boards horizontally between the tops of the posts to complete the backing frame.
STEP 3-4: Finish by attaching the screen material of your choice, such as wood lattice or decorative metal panels. Fill your planter with soil, and you are good to grow!
Illustrations: Allison Bye
1
Upscale Summer Camp Style
Pendleton throw blankets are an easy staple to have around, and this rainbow version exclusive to Brooklinen is no exception. Made of wool and cotton, it’ll keep you cozy by the summer campfire, or bring those camp vibes inside on a rainy day. www.brooklinen.com
We like how the bright red and white color-blocking of the Stillwater Floral Sham is a modern take on traditional applique techniques. Made of 100 percent cotton, mix or match this sham with a quilt in the same collection.
Rag rugs, as the name implies, were a way to upcycle old clothing by repurposing the fabric and weaving it into rugs. So, too, with Revival’s version, which is handmade from recycled denim, and appropriately named “Stonewash.” Available in six sizes and machine washable. www.revivalrugs.com
Verner Panton’s Flowerpot light design is 1960s-era throwback— a playful, colorful interpretation of a boring pendant light. The Flowerpot VP9 Rechargeable LED Table Lamp by &Tradition is a modern take, with polycarbonate construction for portability and a USB charging cable. And, of course, it’s still available in a variety of colors, like Vermillion Red and Signal Green. www.lumens.com
www.schoolhouse.com
Stack two of the Alseda stools from Ikea to make a handy foot rest, or split them apart to become low seats. The steel frame covered in banana leaves makes them durable and lightweight for easy moving and adds a bit of natural texture to any room. www.ikea.com JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
41
mind + body Jadyn Edwards on the field during her time at the University of New Mexico.
From Mill Creek to Europe UNM Athletics
Jadyn Edwards follows her passion for soccer wherever it leads written by Lauren Kramer
A PROFESSIONAL women’s soccer player presently playing for the NB1 Hungarian League in Budapest, Jadyn Edwards, 23, is doing what she loves most: playing competitive soccer with some of the world’s top athletes and competing with other teams across Europe. It’s a challenge, particularly when it comes to understanding her coach and other players around her who speak no English. “I spend a lot of time trying to decipher what they’re saying,” she said with a laugh. “But this is the best team in Hungary, with very good players, and the soccer is a lot of fun.” The Mill Creek native started playing sports at age 5, when her parents signed her up for soccer, flag football, basketball and baseball. “Soccer was always my favorite,” she said. “By the time I was a junior at Jackson High School, I’d dropped all other sports to focus exclusively on it.” An attacking player, Edwards said soccer continues to intrigue her. “I love the competitiveness of the sport and the creativity and freedom it gives you to do what you need in order to be successful,” she reflected. “In soccer you have to be on your toes when it comes to decision making, and you’re thinking ahead all the time.” Encouraged by her parents, Edwards started thinking about going to college with the sport. She didn’t have long to think 42
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Jadyn Edwards Professional Soccer Player
Born: Mill Creek Lives: Budapest Age: 23
WORKOUT “My team practices six days a week for twoand-a-half hours, with additional strength training three times a week. On average we spend up to five hours a day doing something soccer-related.”
NUTRITION “While I don’t follow a
restrictive diet, I try to go heavy on the protein in order to keep muscle. My biggest temptation right now is American foods like pizza and ice cream.”
INSPIRATION “My inspiration is Rose Lavelle, who is the kind of soccer player I want to embody, and also the kind of person I want to be. She’s very selfless, friendly, focused on her team and always makes sure everyone else is taken care of. Everyone wants to be around her and you can just tell she’s a good person!”
Courtesy of Jadyn Edwards
about it. When she was fresh out of high school in 2018, the University of New Mexico offered her a full scholarship to study science and play for its women’s soccer team, the Lobos. Edwards gratefully accepted. “I wanted to study biology and chemistry, and they have a very good science department, a great women’s soccer team, an excellent coach and amazing weather,” she said. Over the next five years, the team made conference champions four times, and Edwards felt herself develop and excel as an athlete. She played ninety-four games and tallied thirty-one goals and twenty-four assists, ranking first in UNM history in assists and games played, and third in goals scored. She was a five-time Mountain West Conference champion and a fourtime Mountain West All-Conference selection with the Lobos and was named the conference Offensive Player of the Year in 2021. Nationally, she earned United States Coaches AllRegion First Team in 2021, Second Team in 2020 and Third Team in 2022. She attributes her athletic growth to her college coach, Heather Dyche. “She led me in so many positive directions with soccer and really made me into the kind of player I am today,” Edwards said. “She’s a great person who always has the best intentions in mind and would do anything for you.” Dyche was equally captivated with Edwards, describing her as the “quintessential Lobo soccer player: all-in, selfless, great teammate, ambitious athlete, superior student and elite human. To see Jadyn achieve one of her dreams to be drafted as a professional athlete is such a joy for me, and I am so proud to have played even a small part in being able to support her in her journey.” When she graduated with a degree in biology in 2022, Edwards knew she had to keep playing. Setting her sights on professional soccer, she entered the draft for the U.S. National Women’s Soccer League, which contains some of the world’s best female soccer players. On draft day she was picked by Racing Louisville and headed to Kentucky for training camp. But when the team couldn’t find a roster spot for her, Edwards was released. The disappointment was followed by elation when her hometown team, the OL Reign in Seattle, picked her as a practice player for its team, signing her to a contract in July 2023. When the contract expired forty-five days later, Edwards was released from that team, too.
Jadyn Edwards recently began playing for the NB1 Hungarian League in Budapest.
The roller-coaster ride of highs and lows was a setback for the young athlete, who took a few months off to head back to Mill Creek, focus on herself and regroup. She coached young players as a side gig in the last months of 2023, but by January 2024, she was packing her bags once again, this time for Europe, to play for the Hungarian league. “This is a new opportunity for me to regain my confidence in a successful league and with a new team, and I’m so excited to be playing soccer again,” she said. “In college, we were always the best team in the conference. Going from that to professional soccer was a big change, and I knew it wouldn’t be easy and that I’d have to keep my mind open to different possibilities.” Edwards hopes to play for another ten years and, during that time, return to the Pacific Northwest to play for the Seattle Reign. “The fact that I got a little taste of that last year was amazing,” she said. “It’s a really successful team, which is one of the reasons I hope to play for them. But being close to home and my family is also high on my list of priorities.”
“I love the competitiveness of the sport and the creativity and freedom it gives you to do what you need in order to be successful. In soccer you have to be on your toes when it comes to decision making, and you’re thinking ahead all the time.” — Jadyn Edwards
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 43
STARTUP 46 MY WORKSPACE 48
pg. 50 Viva Farms perfects small-scale sustainable agriculture.
Viva Farms
GAME CHANGER 50
THE CASCADE FOREST CONSERVANCY PROTECTS AND SUSTAINS THE FORESTS, STREAMS, WILDLIFE, AND COMMUNITIES IN THE HEART OF THE CASCADES THROUGH CONSERVATION, EDUCATION, AND ADVOCACY.
JOIN US TODAY. SIGN OUR PETITION TO TELL CONGRESS MOUNT ST. HELENS IS NO PLACE FOR A MINE.
www.cascadeforest.org draft 2full page with bleed.indd 1
5/10/24 3:25 PM
Fake Chicken, Real Success A mechanical engineer aims to revolutionize plant-based meat options with Rebellyous Foods written by Rachel Gallaher
IN 2011, Christie Lagally—the founder and CEO of Seattle Food Tech, doing business as Rebellyous Foods, a food manufacturing technology company—moved to Seattle to work for Boeing. A mechanical engineer from 9 to 5, Lagally spent part of her free time volunteering at the Humane Society. “I worked in the aerospace industry for fifteen years, but I didn’t eat animals,” she said. “I cared about the issues of climate change and animal welfare, and I was thinking about finding a way to make an impact in that area.” One day, Kristie Middleton, a director at the Humane Society (and current vice president of business development at Rebellyous Foods), started discussing plant-based meat alternatives—specifically chicken—with Lagally.
Rebellyous Foods provides its plant-based products to more than 200 school districts nationwide.
46
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Photos: Rebellyous Foods
startup
ABOVE, FROM LEFT Christie Lagally, founder and CEO of Rebellyous Foods. Rebellyous Foods produces plant-based chicken nuggets, patties and tenders.
“We talked about the fact that animal-based chicken is a relatively cheap and loved product at schools and universities and asked why we can’t make a plant-based version at the same price?” Lagally said. Looking further into the problem, “it turned out that there were a lot of [issues] in the manufacturing process. As a mechanical engineer, I knew I could find a solution.” At Boeing, Lagally had spent her days finding solutions to help efficiently produce airplanes at a maximum profit. She figured she could apply the same concept to the meat industry, focusing on making products at scale—and having a bigger impact. In 2017, Lagally launched Rebellyous Foods to produce high-quality, plant-based chicken nuggets, patties and tenders on a large scale. While the company sells its products at select grocery stores, its current focus is the USDA National School Lunch Program, through which it services 241 U.S. school districts and reaches three million kids a year. “Nearly 90 percent of our sales go to the National School Lunch Program,” Lagally said. “And because our product has no antibiotics, is low-sodium and low in saturated fat, kids are going to feel better eating it.” The fact that plant-based meat alternatives are often more expensive than their animal-sourced counterparts is a headscratcher for most people. “The reason is that we don’t have the
necessary manufacturing tools to make plant-based meat,” Legally said. “Around 95 percent of plant-based meat is made in meat-processing facilities that aren’t designed for plant-based products.” For the past five years, Rebellyous—which has raised around $30 million since its launch—has been developing what it cheekily calls the “Mock 2,” plant-based meat production equipment to make the dough that goes into its products. At the time of press, the equipment was about to be deployed with the capability to make 2,500 pounds of dough an hour. “We designed the right tools for the job, and it will help reduce our manufacturing costs by 60 percent,” Legally said. While the bottom line is always a factor, for the longtime vegan and animal lover, making a high-quality, affordable and accessible plant-based product was the biggest of her motivating factors. The school districts—and, more importantly, the kids—help keep things on track. “Our product has to be nutritionally within the boundaries of the school lunch program requirements: high in protein and low in sodium and saturated fat,” Legally said, adding that “kids are the toughest consumers. You’re not going to get away with making a low-cost nugget if it doesn’t taste good.” JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 47
my workspace
Love You to Pieces Mosaic artist Jennifer Kuhns finds beauty through the catharsis of art written by Joni Kabana
Jennifer Kuhns is an established mosaic artist whose designs are commissioned for large-scale productions all over the country. Not only is her work professionally exceptional, her talent strikes an emotional chord within herself and in others. “I am plagued by the overwhelming amount of tragedy we all face, personally and societally,” she said. “For me, creating beauty is a kind of catharsis. I want to spread that around as much as possible.”
Kuhns cultivates relationships with other creatives, architects and fabricators (“Collaborate, don’t compete!”) and desires more mentorships with new mosaic artists to share her skills. Having studied cultural anthropology with an emphasis on folklore and early religion at Evergreen State College, Kuhns’ love for primitive authentic expressions can be seen in each of her creations.
48
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Artwork photos: Courtesy of Jennifer Kuhns
my workspace
Dinea Norrell
One of Kuhns’ current projects is to install a floor-to-ceiling mosaic with a “chapel-like feel that honors nature in a reverential way” for a publicly accessible restroom in Olympia. “It’s an ideal project for me in every regard,” she said. “Best of all, it is for the public—for everyone!” The location soon will be revealed when it is complete. Other samplings of her work can be viewed in Olympia as well: the Metamorphosis collaborative community mural in the downtown area on the backside of Lloyd’s Automotive featuring a butterfly mosaic around a central figure that is emerging from a chrysalis, a sidewalk inlay in front of The Washington Center for the Performing Arts, the entryway of Childhood’s End Gallery and several elements at Swing Wine Bar.
Kuhns spends part of each day in her studio, which is located 30 miles from Olympia in the Black Hills where she and her husband also tend chickens, goats, a pair of peafowl, several cats, two dogs and an axolotl. In their spare time, they can be found exploring Mexican archaeological sites and searching for artists creating in their natural habitat.
MORE ONLINE
JUNE | JULY 2024
For more information about Jennifer Kuhns and to view some of her community art projects, visit www.jkmosaic.com
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
49
game changer
Growing Farmers Viva Farms keeps farming in Washington’s future written by Daniel O’Neil
AS WASHINGTON farmland becomes increasingly rare earth, first-generation farmers are learning what it takes to grow in Skagit and King counties, and succeeding. Since 2009, Viva Farms has provided instruction, infrastructure, markets and community to those wishing to keep farmland under crops instead of under concrete. And they’re doing it organically, from the ground up. Viva Farms operates on 119 acres of farmland that is all certified organic and Salmon Safe. Working to reduce the barriers to farm ownership, its four-phase program helps new and historically underserved farmers build financially successful and ecologically responsible businesses in Western Washington. All of its services are offered bilingually, in English and Spanish. 50
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
The four-phase Viva Farms program begins with an eightmonth Practicum in Sustainable Agriculture. This takes place on student farms, one in Mount Vernon and another in Woodinville, and in the classroom. “A lot of people think farming means growing food,” said Michael Frazier, executive director of Viva Farms. “That can be the easy part of a farm business, so the farm business management portion of the work that we do is really important.” This year, Viva Farms has thirty-eight students in its practicum program. Farmers-to-be who finish those initial studies can then begin their own small-scale farm businesses in Viva Farms’ Farm Business Incubator Program, also in Skagit and King counties. Support for incubator farmers includes access
Viva Farms
game changer
Bright Thread Farm has been part of Viva Farms’ Farm Business Incubator since 2019.
High Mowing Seeds/Viva Farms
Viva Farms director of operations Rob Smith and former farm manager Martin Burwash educate visitors at Viva Farms Skagit.
to land, infrastructure and equipment, plus further training in farming and business. After three or so years, selected farmers enter the third phase. The Viva Farms Ag Park includes all of the essentials, but now farmers work at a larger scale, on parcels from 7 to 20 acres, for an indefinite period of time. Thirty-six farm businesses, which represent fifty-two owner-operators, currently grow and sell crops as part of the Ag Park. For the past several years, Viva Farms farmers have sold more than $2 million in produce annually. Viva Farms sells and distributes to wholesalers, grocery stores and CSA customers, from Whatcom County to south King County. Organic certification helps make Viva Farms and its student farmers successful.
“Small-scale, economically viable farms are a real thing,” Frazier said. “If any of our farmers were trying to grow conventional produce on 5 or even 20 acres, they would quickly fail. But the fact that they’re doing this organically provides them with a market where they can grow on a smaller scale, but demand prices at a higher level, so they can actually make a living doing it.” The final stage of Viva Farms’ program focuses on helping farmers find long-term leases or land of their own to buy. This wouldn’t be possible without a strong relationship with the communities they rely on and help feed. “Not only are they critical partners in training the next generation of farmers here in King County, but Viva Farms has also brought important thought leadership to a broad array of food system issues, from farmland access to regional infrastructure, marketing and distribution of local farm products,” said Michael Lufkin, local food economy manager for the King County Department of Natural Resources and Parks. King County recently awarded Viva Farms a conservation futures grant, which will help create an Ag Park in that county. “King County can be a hard place to break into farming,” Lufkin said. “Land is prohibitively expensive, existing farmers and farm supports are clustered in rural communities, and food businesses have more competition than anywhere else in the state. Having Viva Farms in King County has created a pathway for aspiring and limited-resource farmers to overcome these challenges and begin their own organic farm businesses here.” Viva Farms supports first-generation farmers, but its goal is to create multigenerational family farms. “Some of the folks that we started working with fifteen years ago have their adult children employed as part of their farm business,” Frazier said. “So it’s not a one-year proposition. This is a multigenerational proposition that we’re working on here. Viva and the farmers at Viva are committed not just to making a dollar, but to making a great community as well.” JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 51
Seattle Pride Celebrates
Years Join the milestone and explore Pride across the state written by Ryn Pfeuffer Hey there, my fabulous queer fam and supportive allies! As Pride Month unfolds, it’s time to rally together. As some states propose bills threatening LGBTQIA+ rights, our unity is more vital than ever. Let’s fight for our rights while honoring the trailblazing lesbians and transgender women of color who paved the way. Remember, the first Pride was a riot led by LGBTQIA+ people of color against injustice. (To learn more, check out Stonewall Forever, a documentary that brings together voices from more than fifty years of LGBTQIA+ activism to explore the ongoing legacy of Stonewall.) In Seattle, our LGBTQIA+ pride has flourished over fifty years into a vibrant celebration of diversity and resilience. This year, as we mark the fiftieth anniversary of Pride Week, our theme is “Now!”—a rallying cry for recognition that transcends time. It’s a moment to reflect on our community’s unwavering resilience, from past struggles to present triumphs. As we come together, let’s support LGBTQIA+-owned businesses and reject rainbow capitalism. Instead of performative gestures, let’s donate to vital charities like The Trevor Project and Trans Lifeline and directly support queer folks’ crowdfunding campaigns. Delving into LGBTQIA+ history isn’t just about dates and facts—it’s about understanding the stories and struggles that have shaped our communities. It’s about empathy, inclusivity and celebrating the resilience of those who have paved the way for equality. Join us in exploring Seattle’s journey to acceptance with this timeline of key moments. Let’s dig into the stories together, honor the progress made and keep marching toward a future where everyone is celebrated for who they are. Note: This historical timeline sometimes includes biased language from source material reflecting past eras rather than using more appropriate language for today.
52 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Visit Seattle
A rainbow flag flies from the Space Needle during Seattle Pride.
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53
Seattle LGBTQIA+
History Early 1900s
“Fairyville” thrives in Pioneer Square amid a backdrop of police corruption targeting LGBTQ+ and minority-owned establishments, culminating in legal action and anti-harassment legislation in the 1970s, while transgender man Harry Allen garners sensationalist media attention from 1900 to his passing in 1922.
1933
Seattle’s inaugural after-hours establishment, The Casino, debuts in Pioneer Square, later evolving into Madame Peabody’s Dancing Academy, renowned as a rare West Coast venue permitting same-sex dancing.
1934
Gay bars thrive in Pioneer Square post-Prohibition, notably with the launch of The Double Header featuring drag shows and “The Cracker Barrel” oompah band, later claiming the title of the longest-running gay bar on the West Coast until its closure in 2015.
1946
Seattle’s first gay-owned bar, The Garden of Allah, at the Arlington Hotel basement, Post Alley & Seneca, features vaudeville, burlesque and variety shows with female impersonators, fostering community for ten years.
1950
Seattle’s inaugural lesbian bar, The Hub, debuts on Denny Way, followed swiftly by the Grand Union, Sappho’s Tavern and the Silver Slipper.
1967
Seattle’s pioneering Dorian Society launches for awareness and advocacy, birthing The Seattle Counseling Services for Sexual Minorities in 1969, now known as Seattle Counseling Services.
1970
The Gay Liberation Front’s Seattle chapter forms one year post-Stonewall.
1970
The Lesbian Mothers Defense Fund is founded in Seattle.
1970
The House of LaBeija, founded in NYC, inspires Kiki Balls nationwide, including those in the Pacific Northwest.
1970
Pioneer Square earns its historic stripes, but rising costs drive LGBTQIA+ bars to Capitol Hill, the new vibrant hub, while fierce young lesbian feminists rally in the University District.
1971
The first Gay Community Center opens near Pioneer Square.
1971
The Lesbian Resource Center opens in the University District.
1971
Washington state repeals its sodomy law.
1973
The City of Seattle ordinances ban discrimination in employment against sexual minorities.
54 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
1973
Following a freak accident at a 1970 Bastille Day parade in Pioneer Square, where she lost her leg to a cannon blast, Shelly Bauman boldly opens Seattle’s first unabashedly gay disco, aptly named Shelly’s Leg. It swiftly became a beloved hot spot until its closure in 1977.
1974
Seattle’s debut Gay Pride Week, curated by activist David Neth, kicks off with a bang: a picnic, street dance and lively march in Occidental Square Park. The festivities continue with a wild “Gay-In” at Seattle Center’s International Fountain and a roller-skating sing-along atop Volunteer Park Water Tower.
1974
Seattle Gay News (SGN), the nation’s third-oldest LGBTQIA+ publication, emerges as a vital voice, spotlighting issues within Seattle’s queer community.
1976
Gov. Dan Evans signs a bill to decriminalize anti-sodomy laws in Washington state.
1977
Seattle Mayor Wes Uhlman inaugurates Gay Pride Week, featuring the first Seattle Pride Parade with 2,000+ attendees from Occidental Square Park to Westlake Park via First Avenue—the route shifts between First Avenue and Capitol Hill until permanently settling on Broadway in the early ’80s.
David Newman/Visit Seattle
SEATTLE PRIDE PARADE
1977
The Ingersoll Gender Center opens.
1977
Black and White Men Together, renamed Men of All Colors and Cultures Together, was established in Seattle to combat racism in the gay community.
1978
The City of Seattle ordinances ban discrimination in housing against sexual minorities.
1978
Two Seattle police officers initiated Initiative 13 under the banner of Save Our Moral Ethics, aiming to repeal anti-discrimination ordinances. The Seattle Committee Against Thirteen/Women Against Thirteen mobilizes protests in
Occidental Square against the initiative. Seattle voters overwhelmingly reject it by 63 percent.
1979
Seattle’s PFLAG chapter is established.
1983
King County includes sexual orientation protections in its housing ordinance.
1987
1981
Cal Anderson makes history as the first openly gay member of the Washington State Legislature, representing Seattle’s 43rd District.
The Greater Seattle Business Association (GSBA) forms to promote support for gay-owned businesses.
1982
Seattle reports its first AIDS case. Over the next decade, AIDS claims more than 3,500 lives in the city, predominantly among gay men.
1987
1983
1991
Seattle becomes the second city in the nation to allocate funds for AIDS research and treatment.
People of Color Against AIDS Network (POCAAN) is founded.
Sherry Harris became the first selfidentified lesbian elected to the Seattle City Council.
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 55
David Newman/Visit Seattle
2006
The Washington State Legislature passes its first domestic partnership law, addressing death and medical matters such as hospital visitation, funeral arrangements, inheritance and insurance benefits for domestic partners.
2007
Domestic partnership for samesex couples becomes legal in Washington state.
2010
The Space Needle flies the rainbow Pride flag for the first time.
SEATTLE PRIDE
1991
Lambert House is established as a drop-in center for gay youth, the first in the U.S.
1991
Entre Hermanos is formed to promote the health and well-being of LGBTQIA+ Latinos.
1992
Seattle Pride festivities officially embrace bisexual and transgender identities (LGBT) for the first time.
1992
Bailey-Boushay House, run by Virginia Mason Medical Center, opens as the nation’s first nursing care residence for individuals with HIV/AIDS.
1997
Activists convene outside Seattle Central Community College for the nation’s first Trans Pride rally, showing support for “those crossing, having crossed or challenging gender and biological borders.”
1997
Trikone Northwest is formed to support LGBTQIA+ South Asians in Seattle.
2000
Camp Ten Trees is established as one of the earliest summer camps catering to questioning or LGBTQIA+ youth.
2003
Capitol Hill’s Lincoln Park is renamed Cal Anderson Park in tribute to the first openly gay member of the Washington State Legislature, representing Seattle’s 43rd District.
2006
Seattle Pride Parade returns downtown to its original location after being held in Capitol Hill.
2006
Gov. Christine Gregoire signs Washington state’s inaugural gay civil rights bill into law.
56 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
2012
Washington State Legislature legalizes same-sex marriage, prompting opponents to push for a public vote through a ballot referendum—the public votes in favor of marriage equality by 53.7 percent.
2013
Seattle elects Ed Murray as its first openly gay mayor.
2016
Seattle Children’s Gender Clinic opens as the region’s only multidisciplinary clinic serving transgender and gender-diverse youth.
2016
The Washington State Black Trans Task Force—now called the Lavender Rights Project—emerged to tackle the crisis of violence against Black trans women and femmes.
Visit Bellingham
Where to Celebrate Pride in WA
2017
Jenny Durkan makes history as Seattle’s first openly lesbian mayor and the second woman to hold the position.
2020
Seattle organizers establish Taking B(l)ack Pride to empower BIPOC transgender, queer and gender-diverse communities in reclaiming joy, culture and collective expression.
2020
PRIDE IN BELLINGHAM Join Pride IN Bellingham on July 6 and 7 for a weekend of love and celebration! Enjoy an all-ages picnic, a vibrant dance party with live DJs and drag artists, and a colorful parade through downtown Bellingham. Don’t forget to grab some “B proud” merch at the festival, including stylish non-gendered options like fanny packs and hats.
Seattle Pride, PrideFest and Gender Justice League (TransPride) team up for Seattle’s inaugural virtual Pride event in response to the COVID-19 pandemic, with another virtual celebration held in 2021.
Learn more: www.prideinbellingham.org
Seattle Pride Parade resumes after a two-year pause due to the pandemic, drawing an estimated 300,000 attendees, making it Washington state’s most prominent and one of the nation’s biggest Pride parades.
2024
Gov. Jay Inslee signs a bill requiring statewide public schools to teach about the contributions and history of LGBTQIA+ individuals.
David Welton/South Whidbey Pride
2023
2024
Seattle marks the fiftieth anniversary of its Pride celebrations, offering the community a chance to celebrate the present, envision the future and honor the past. This is not an exhaustive list of milestones in Seattle’s rich LGBTQIA+ history. For a more expanded timeline, including national milestones, please visit www.bit.ly/lgbtqmilestones.
SOUTH WHIDBEY PRIDE South Whidbey Pride rose from the shadows in 2023, reviving the Langley Pride Parade. Join Langley’s lively LGBTQIA+ community again on June 22 at noon and march through downtown Langley to celebrate the local LGBTQIA+ community. Afterward, gather at South Whidbey Community Center for food, music, speakers and fun giveaways. Learn more: www.southwhidbeypride.org
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 57
Where to Celebrate Pride in WA ALKI BEACH PRIDE
EASTSIDE PRIDE PNW
Celebrating its tenth year, West Seattle’s premier Pride event—founded by two inspiring Black women, Stacy and Jolie Bass-Walden (who actually got married on Alki Beach)—takes place on August 31. This family-friendly celebration at Seattle’s iconic Alki Beach features live music, waterfront dining, inspiring performances and stunning Puget Sound views. Discover handcrafted goods from LGBTQ+ vendors, groove to DJs and musicians and enjoy free activities for all ages.
Calling all LGBTQIA+ people and furry friends! Join Eastside Pride PNW for the Paws & Pride Dog Jog & Walk on June 1, from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. in Downtown Bellevue. Take a scenic stroll at Bellevue Downtown Park and enjoy post-walk festivities with a mimosa and beer garden, DJ Puma, RuPaw’s Dawg Costume Contest and drag queen Gaysha Starr. Learn more: www.eastsidepridepnw.com
Erinn J. Hale/Kitsap Pride
Learn more: www.alkibeachpride.org
KITSAP PRIDE Get ready for an unforgettable day at Kitsap Pride, back at the Kitsap County Fairgrounds in Bremerton on July 20. Enjoy a stellar lineup on the Pride Stage featuring local talents, plus 100 vendors, info booths, food and a bar area. Don’t forget your blanket or camp chairs for lounging on the Pride Lawn. With a Teen Space, Kid Zone and nonstop entertainment, it’s a celebration suited for everyone.
WALLA WALLA PRIDE FESTIVAL On June 1, from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m., celebrate love at the fourth annual Walla Walla Pride Festival, presented by Inclusivo Productions, Walla Walla Pride and Eternal Wines. From 5 to 8 p.m., enjoy free entry to an all-ages-inclusive event with vendors, DJs, food and drinks. Then, dance into the night from 8:30 p.m. until 2 a.m. at the 21+ party. Tickets are $10 online or $20 at the door. The event will support Triple Point Walla Walla, which helps empower LGBTQIA+ youth. Learn more: www.facebook.com/walla.walla.wa.pride
58 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Eastside Pride PNW
Learn more: www.kitsappride.org
SEATTLE PRIDE Last but not least, for a full rundown of Seattle Pride festivities, check out www.seattlepride. org/pages/50th-anniversary.
LIVE THINK EXPLORE Discover the best of the Evergreen State with a subscription to 1889 Washington’s Magazine. PNW getaways, destination dining, outdoor adventures and more!
Save 50% off cover price 1 year for $18.89 | Gift subscriptions available Subscribe today at 1889mag.com/subscribe
WASHINGTON’S
WATER SHORTAGE An uncertain future takes shape for Washington’s resources
T
written by Lauren Kramer
HE PACIFIC NORTHWEST is famous for its snow-capped mountains, lush rainforests
and its days, weeks and months of steady rain. So the idea that Washington could be running out of water seems inconceivable.
And yet, last summer, some residents of Whatcom County turned on their faucets
to find nothing but air coming out. Some of the wells supplying these public water
systems had run bone dry without warning, leaving residents and a multi-generation dairy farm dependent on emergency resources.
“They had to pay for trucks to deliver water to their storage tanks, which came at a cost of
$400 to $500 per load with multiple loads per day, compared to just turning on your tap,” said Dave Olson, owner of Water System Services, a satellite management agency that operates
water systems in the county. “For the dairy farm, water is its life blood. And for the homeowners, what can you do? Buy bottled water for showering? You can’t just run to your neighbor.”
60
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
The solutions were expensive and of uncertain duration. In August 2023, the Baker View Water Association was able to get emergency approval to drill a new well 65 feet deeper than the one that had run dry. The $80,000 fix had them drawing water from the new well by mid-September. “They estimate they’ve bought themselves a decade-worth of water, but that’s a wild guess,” Olson said. The Mountain View Water Association had an emergency intertie with the City of Ferndale, a temporary measure as they prepared to drill a deeper well in a more complex location at a cost of approximately $100,000. And the Aldergrove Water Association cleaned the bottom of its well, giving them just enough water to scrape by. “While they survived last fall and winter, they’re right on the edge of running dry, and we don’t know how they will fare this summer,” Olson noted. That water association is applying for $150,000 in funding for an emergency intertie, and if they get it, the water they’ll receive will still require $150,000 worth of treatment before it is fit for consumption. hatcom County is far from an anomaly in the water shortages it’s experiencing. In July 2023, Clallam County’s Island View Water System issued a Stage 4 alert when Olsen Creek’s water levels fell rapidly. Over the next four months, twenty truckloads of water had to be delivered each week from the Sekiu System, 10 miles away, to serve the seventy residents. “It was a pretty significant task,” said Bowen Kendrick, manager of water systems at Clallam Public Utility District No. 1. “We’ve had to do this in the past, but never for this period of time.” Last July, the Washington State Department of Ecology issued a drought emergency declaration in twelve counties, 30 percent of the state. Benton, Clallam, Columbia, Jefferson, Kittitas, Klickitat, Okanogan, Skagit, Snohomish, Walla Walla, Whatcom and Yakima counties were notified to “expect undue hardship” given that there was less than 75 percent of normal water supply. In April 2024, a statewide drought emergency was declared, with limited exceptions for Seattle, Everett and Tacoma metro areas. “There is simply not enough water contained in mountain snow and reservoirs to prevent serious impacts for water users in the months ahead,” the Department of Ecology warned in its announcement. With the drought announcement comes $4.5 million available to address drought impacts for those communities experiencing a current drought, or those who anticipate drought impacts this summer. “Current predictions for spring and summer are higher than normal temperatures and lower than normal precipitation, which means we have no expectation that drought conditions will change, or that there will be a miracle in
W
In April, the Washington State Department of Ecology declared a drought emergency for most of the state, excluding areas around Seattle, Everett and Tacoma. (Map: Washington State Department of Ecology)
the way of late snow or extra rain,” said Caroline Mellor, statewide drought leader for the Department of Ecology. “Recent rain in early May is helpful, but it doesn’t change the drought conditions that are still out there.” In Washington, our water supply is heavily dependent on snowpack, she explained. Snow that accumulates in the winter melts in the spring and becomes river flow, providing habitat for salmon, filling reservoirs, recharging aquifers and acting as a water source for city residents and farmers. The snowpack is our natural storage system and drives our water supply in the spring and summer. Most people don’t realize the importance of snowpack, she added. “When warmer temperatures cause precipitation to arrive as rain instead of snow, the rain washes away, impacting water availability in spring and summer when the rivers, creeks and people need it most. Climate models predict we will have a snowpack drought 42 percent of the time by 2050, and over the last ten years we’ve seen increasing frequency of snowpack drought that matches this climate prediction.” Last summer was warm and dry, she noted, and in much of the state this past winter, the snowpack has been below the normal average of the past thirty years. “Because of last year’s drought, we started out the year with a deficit in our snowpack.” In April 2024, the snowpack in the Olympic basin was at 60 percent of normal, and the north Puget Sound was at 58 percent of normal. In Central Columbia it was at 52 percent of normal and in the Lower Yakima, it was at 40 percent. “This makes us very concerned for water availability in the summer,” Mellor said. “Water availability will impact stream flows. Streams may dry up sooner, which will have impacts for fish, ecosystems, farmers and domestic drinking water systems.” JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
61
The forecast is not good. In March, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration released its U.S. Spring Outlook for 2024, which predicted above-average temperatures for most of the continental U.S., particularly for the Pacific Northwest. It expected El Niño to continue impacting weather patterns in the U.S. through June 2024. n Whatcom County, a long-term ecology report predicted that in the next fifty years the Nooksack River basin will run completely dry. That’s significant, because the public utility district pulls water from the Nooksack River, supplying it directly to residents in Ferndale and Lynden, to the refineries and to the agricultural community. “It means that unless the refineries could find another way to get water—and I don’t know what that other way is—it could be a constraint to their continued operation,” said Atul Deshmane, a commissioner at Whatcom County’s Public Utility District No. 1. “It will devastate the industrial, agricultural and residential sectors, we’ll lose salmon, and it will limit residential growth in Lynden and Ferndale because it will be impossible to get more water for new homes.” “This is a crisis long before the river runs dry,” he continued. “There needs to be emergency action to preserve what water is left in the river, so water extraction is limited. But we’re not doing much to recognize this problem and take steps to ameliorate it. Things are carrying on as if this prediction didn’t exist, and I think people are largely unaware of it.” Deshmane said Whatcom County is still approving new developments that require new wells to be drilled. “It’s complicated because there’s an affordable housing crisis, so we’re addressing rising prices by increasing housing supply. What’s needed are policy changes to reduce per capita water consumption, and policies that would put water supply as a precondition to development.” On a bureaucratic level, there’s a considerable time lag between recognition of a problem, studies to understand its depth and propose a solution, and implementation of a solution. New building permits in the county for single-family homes are a perfect example of this. Before new building permits are issued, the county refers to the health department for information on whether there’s adequate water available to support issuing those permits. And the health department bases its decisions on water availability now, not at future projections. But planning and research work is being done. Whatcom County is working with the public utility districts, its seven cities and two tribes on watershed improvements and water supply planning. And there are studies underway to understand the relationship between groundwater and surface
I
62
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
WHERE’S OUR WATER GOING?
• 80 percent of Washington’s water withdrawal is for agriculture. The state has 1.8 million irrigated acres, most of them crops east of the Cascade Mountains. Their primary water source is the Columbia, Yakima and Snake river watersheds. • Irrigation is responsible for 75 percent of consumptive use of water from these rivers— meaning, the water leaves the fields as vapor. 25 percent is drawn from groundwater sources.
• According to data from the U.S. Geological Survey, Grant and Adams counties use the most water (8 million to 9 million gallons per day), followed by Kittitas and Franklin counties (3 million to 4 million gallons per day).
• In some states, artificial recharge is being used to recharge groundwater sources, notes R. Troy Peters, an irrigation specialist at WSU. “We’ve seen irrigation system canals and ditches, traditionally used to deliver water to farmers, being filled with water in the winter. It gradually leaks into the groundwater. But that’s not happening in Washington State, because it’s an extra cost to the irrigation districts, which are funded by the farmers. And the farmers just don’t want to pay for that.”
flows that will inform future development decisions, said Chris Elder, senior watershed planner at Whatcom County Public Works. “It’s alarming to think of a river that has never run dry, to be dry by the 2080s,” he said. As he and his team consider how to build long-term community resilience, the county has commissioned a “storage assessment” for the Nooksack watershed in which they are trying to identify higher elevation sites where more water could be potentially retained in reservoir systems. They’re also looking at natural solutions like an increase in wells in the uplands, floodplain reconnection, reintroducing beavers in streams so they can endow more water across the landscape, and forestry management. “The Nooksack tribe let us study different forest management practices and how they impact hydrology,” Elder said. “There are some indications that older, mature forests support more water retention in the uplands.” As part of its research, the county is looking at acquiring 5,500 acres on Stewart mountain that has been heavily harvested over the past century. “There’s hope that by managing it as a hydrologically intact working forest, we could restore some of the degraded hydrological features,” he said.
“WHEN WARMER TEMPERATURES CAUSE PRECIPITATION TO ARRIVE AS RAIN INSTEAD OF SNOW, THE RAIN WASHES AWAY, IMPACTING WATER AVAILABILITY IN SPRING AND SUMMER WHEN THE RIVERS, CREEKS AND PEOPLE NEED IT MOST. CLIMATE MODELS PREDICT WE WILL HAVE A SNOWPACK DROUGHT 42 PERCENT OF THE TIME BY 2050, AND OVER THE LAST TEN YEARS WE’VE SEEN INCREASING FREQUENCY OF SNOWPACK DROUGHT THAT MATCHES THIS CLIMATE PREDICTION.” — Caroline Mellor, statewide drought leader for the Washington State Department of Ecology, on snowpack
The county is also grappling with legacy impacts, such as 100-year-old decisions with problems magnified by climate change. The towns of Everson, Sumas and Nooksack, for example, were built in the floodplain and, not surprisingly, have experienced heavy flooding events. The most recent one occurred in November 2021 and devastated many homes, some of which could not be rebuilt. “Sumas is 7 feet below the Nooksack River floodplain, but historically we made a decision to put a town there, and it’s just not a great place to keep people safe and whole,” Elder said. “Everson is an old logging town created as a seasonal community and built in the floodplain, but today it’s a fullon city. It’s an enormous challenge to rectify these decisions to build cities in areas that are extremely vulnerable. It’s a challenging game of Tetris to keep everything whole.” There are lots of ideas being explored at present, Deshmane said, but no “concrete action.” “We need to start coming up with solid plans on how to address our water shortage, but for now the community is still in shock at these projections. Most people aren’t even aware of them.” From an ecological, cost and time perspective, he believes the best solution is natural water storage, and encouraging land-use practices that put water into the ground. “It’s almost a reversal of 100 years of agricultural practices, where the goal was to drain the soil as early as possible to start the growing season earlier,” he said. “The downside to draining the soils quickly is that you won’t have any water for plants in the months when you need it most.” Likewise, he suggests housing development needs to be done in a way that keeps soil wet rather than dries it out. “These are things that, aesthetically, people may not like or be familiar with. But it stands to reason that a drainage-based approach to land development may not be wise
anymore. We have to start doing something different if we’re going to maintain our watershed.” Climate change is complicated, Elder concurs. “As water planners, we’re familiar with a static environment, but climate change is making us grapple with a dynamic system. This research on new climate models is teaching us that climate change is a curveball, and the variability will keep coming.”
WATER CONSERVATION MEASURES
While we can’t control nature, we can control our personal water use. Caroline Mellor, the statewide drought coordinator for the Washington State Department of Ecology, encourages residents to heed messages from their utility managers, particularly if they’re requesting more judicious water use. That could mean: • Investing in low-water-use practices, such as drought-tolerant plants for your garden. “We’re going to see these snowpack droughts occur more frequently in the future, so drought-tolerant plants will make more sense going forward,” she said. • Waiting until your dishwasher and washing machine are full before running a load.
“These tips may seem minor at the individual level, but if you think of tens of thousands of people adopting these habits, it can lead to significant gains,” she said.
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63
David Gilhooly (1943-2013), Cookies, 1974, ceramic with fiber and glass, photo: Scott Leen
BEAUTIFULLY BIZARRE LOCATED IN the heart of downtown, the Seattle Art Museum inspires visitors year-round with global art collections, interactive installations (think Yayoi Kusama) and exhibitions from around the world. But SAM also dives into its own collection to tell new stories and keep the galleries dynamic for art enthusiasts. That’s what you’ll find with Poke in the Eye: Art of the West Coast Counterculture running June 21 through September 2. Offbeat, playful and irreverent, this exhibition incorporates works by celebrated Northwest artists including Patti Warashina, Fay Jones and Howard Kottler. Known for their imaginative and fantastical creations, these artists provided the foundation for the counterculture art movement that emerged in the 1960s and ’70s across the West Coast. On view, you’ll find more than 100 ceramics, sculptures, paintings and textiles from twenty-three artists, all with a similar anti-establishment spirit that challenges what “fine art” can be. For more information, visit www.seattleartmusuem.org.
64
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
FROM TOP Bruce Nauman (born 1941), Double Poke in the Eye II, 1985, neon and aluminum, photo: Scott Leen Patti Warashina (born 1940), Red Hot Pot, 1969, ceramic with glaze, photo: Scott Leen
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 65
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Robert Arneson (1930-1992), Pool with Splash, 1977, ceramic with glaze, photo: Nathaniel Willson Joan Brown (1938-1990), Lamp on Table, 1974, enamel on canvas, photo: Scott Leen Howard Kottler (1930-1989), Look Alikes from the set of four dinner plates American Gothicware, 1972, porcelain with decal
66 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Howard Kottler (1930-1989), Kottler Posing As A Cubist, 1987, low-fire ceramic with luster glaze
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 67
James Harnois
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 70 ADVENTURE 72 LODGING 76 TRIP PLANNER 78 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84
pg. 72 The outdoors are open to all. See some of the ways that people are getting inspired to get out.
Photos: Visit Long Beach Peninsula
Come for the free admission, stay for the reptile man.
Travel Spotlight
Jake the Alligator Man
Tail or tale? Find out for yourself at Marsh’s Free Museum in Long Beach written by Joni Kabana LONG BEACH has long been a favorite travel destination where one can find a wonderful beach and boardwalk, the colorful World Kite Museum, a wave-smashing coastal lighthouse and bird-rich marshes. But did you know you could also see a mummified alligator man in Long Beach? Folklore has it that Jake was born half man, half alligator and lived his life as a sideshow performer in Texas, a cigar-smoking meanderer, a New Orleans brothel patron and a drag performer in San Francisco before he met his fate and became immortalized as a corpse mummy who, even today, has maintained his cult following. He is so beloved that a birthday celebration party in his honor is held each year in early August. No one knows how this “man-alligator” came to be, but stories are abundant and lively. He now sits in a glass case in Marsh’s Free Museum (billed as “a treasure trove of a curiosity shop”) next to nickel machines called The Throne of Love and The Drunken Dream. If you go to see Jake, you will get a bonus viewing of a two-headed pig, an eight-legged lamb and a shrunken human head whose gaze seems to follow you as you peruse trinkets, oddities and assorted souvenirs. 70
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Jake the Alligator Man at Marsh’s Free Museum in Long Beach.
Is your interest piqued yet or are you leery? Breweries and restaurants can be found all around the peninsula, so you can stop for some jitter juice or imbibe in a craft beer before setting off to weirdo-land. Now, what’s stopping you? You can find Marsh’s Free Museum on the main strip in Long Beach at 409 S. Pacific Ave. Learn more at www.marshs freemuseum.com.
MORE PNW Delivered to Your Inbox.
Join our Adventure Mail newsletter and get access to all things Washington and Oregon, including getaways, giveaways, dining and more! Subscribe today at 1889mag.com/1889-newsletter
adventure
Adventures for All These Washington groups are dismantling barriers to the outdoors written by Cathy Carroll
72 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
adventure
Marlie and Anthony Love
Event production company Golden Bricks Events is working to change representation in the outdoors through events such as the Refuge Outdoor Festival and Sundaes Outside.
Marlie and Anthony Love, of Traveling While Black, at Franklin Falls.
WHEN MARLIE and Anthony Love moved to Seattle from the St. Louis area in 2019, they were eager to explore their new surroundings, but weren’t sure what places were safe and comfortable for them as a Black couple. That year, inspired by the segregation-era travel guide for African Americans known as The Green Book, they launched Traveling While Black, an online resource for the Black community and their allies. “It’s no secret that historically there’s a lack of POCs (people of color) in the outdoors,” they said. “That’s why we do what we do and have sayings like ‘Nature loves Black people,’ because we want to do what we can to encourage more of our people to have the confidence to get outside.” Washington’s coast, Cascade Range and ponderosa-filled forests don’t recognize race, gender, wealth, poverty or ability. They are for all of us. Across the state, people are making the adventuring and fun more accessible. Here are just a few efforts aimed at helping everyone dive in, no matter who you are.
Golden Bricks Events
Golden Bricks Events Chevon Powell of Seattle was on a solo backpacking trip in Vermont when law enforcement officers questioned her reason for being in the area. They found her answer to be “unbelievable,” she said. That prompted her to create Golden Bricks Events and connect people of color with nature. The Refuge Outdoor Festival, August 16 to 18 at Tolt-MacDonald Park and Campground in Carnation, offers outdoor recreation as well as workshops, DJs, holistic activities, performances and art. Diversity and inclusivity in Washington’s outdoors has improved, but the journey continues, Powell said. “Events like RefugeFest highlight the ongoing need for spaces where diversity is not just welcomed but celebrated,” said Powell. | www.goldenbricksevents.com JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 73
adventure
Outdoors for All
Photos, from top: Outdoors for All, Miles Hike Club
Since 1979, Outdoors for All has been leading the way for adaptive and therapeutic recreation for people with disabilities. More than 900 volunteers are helping 3,300 kids and grown-ups go snowboarding, snowshoeing, skiing, cycling, mountain biking, kayaking, hiking, rock climbing and more. New this summer: adaptive biking, paddleboarding, kayaking and summer camps at Lake Sammamish State Park in Issaquah. | www.outdoorsforall.org
Miles Hike Club James “Booby” Miles fell in love with hiking the moment he moved to the Northwest after living in Washington, D.C., Los Angeles and Chicago. He started Miles Hike Club in Seattle in 2019, based on his belief that people from all backgrounds and abilities deserve the chance to go higher in the outdoors through hiking amid mountains, waterfalls and lakes. | www.mileshikeclub.com
Outdoor Asian Asian and Pacific Islanders connect over outdoor recreational pursuits through local trips, outings and workshops of this national organization’s Washington chapter. Their blog of participants’ stories range from family fishing trips to a summer as a chainsawwielding conservation crew member. | www.outdoorasian.com
The Bronze Chapter In 2018, Washington native Denice Rochelle was on a road trip, camping along the coasts of the Northwest and California. “I never saw another individual or family of color camping, playing on the beaches, or another solo female of color,” she said. “I posed the question of ‘Why am I seeing y’all in these affinity groups on socials, but I’m not seeing y’all outside?’” She formed The Bronze Chapter in 2021 to “help bridge a gap that I’ve been looking at my entire life.” She believes camping offers the confidence and skills for backpacking, kayaking, paddleboarding, canoeing and cycling. “Through experience comes connection and caring,” said Rochelle. “Through caring comes the desire to protect the beauty and magnificence and wildness and perfection of nature.” Youth programs in the outdoors abound, but the experiences often end there for BIPOC (Black, Indigenous and People of Color) kids because their family or friends don’t have the related skills, she said. “We focus on getting families outside together, learning skills together, having experiences together, having successes and making mistakes together,” she said. To that end, a sleepover camp for multi-ethnic and BIPOC families, the annual Samish Island Nature and Adventure Camp, is set for July 11 to 15. Sunset sailing and kayaking programs on Bellingham Bay are scheduled for summer. Look for the End of Summer Campout at Lake Wenatchee State Park outside of Leavenworth in August. | www.thebronzechapter.org 74 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
ABOVE Outdoors for All provides outdoor recreation opportunities—including adaptive cycling, kayaking, snowboarding and more—for children and adults with disabilities. AT RIGHT James “Booby” Miles launched Miles Hike Club in 2019.
The AIROW Project This Bellingham-based nonprofit offers outdoor recreation for people with disabilities in Whatcom County. The Adaptive Inclusive Summer Camp aims to build confidence and physical ability for enjoying the outdoors and is open to everyone. State Developmental Disabilities Administration funds are available for camp participation, too. | www.airowproject.com
Disabled Hikers This entirely disabled-led organization based in Forks celebrates disabled people’s outdoors experiences. They offer resources and events throughout the state and advocate for justice and access. Whether enjoying the outdoors means sitting by your window or through-hiking, you are welcome. | www.disabledhikers.com
the Service Board For twenty-seven years, this Seattle-based, youth-led organization has offered access to outdoor activities for high schoolaged youth from historically marginalized communities such as BIPOC, LGBTQ2S+ (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer or questioning, two-spirit, intersex, asexual), low-income, immigrants, refugees, houseless youth and those in foster care. | www. theserviceboard.org
Time to Find Your Balance Situated on 3,300 forested acres, moments from Bend, Oregon, Sunriver Resort is the Pacific Northwest’s destination for adventure this Summer. Float down the Deschutes River, tee off on one of our four award-winning golf courses, explore miles of trails on horseback or two wheels, savor Central Oregon flavors at one of our 10+ restaurants, or rejuvenate at The Spa at Sunriver Resort. Now is the time to experience your greatest summer ever at Sunriver Resort.
Discover our specials on guest rooms, suites, vacation rentals and more at SunriverResort.com/Offers
DINING With James Beard Award-winning chef Jason Wilson at the helm of the kitchen, dining at Casia Lodge is a gastronomic feast with a wide range of options, from five-course dinners to casual fare like burgers and fries. Every dish carries Wilson’s signature creative flair and made-from-scratch approach, showcasing Methow Valley-grown ingredients. We joined a ninety-minute cookwith-the-chef session where we stirred the pots and prepped food, watching awestruck as Wilson worked his magic in the kitchen. After, we enjoyed the meal we’d helped prepare at the lodge’s Veranda restaurant. An overnight stay at the lodge includes a sumptuous breakfast with hot entrées, granola and fresh fruit, some of it grown in the orchard on site.
Photos: Casia Lodge & Ranch
AMENITIES Casia has a hot tub, seasonal outdoor pool, sauna, a well-equipped games room, library and theater. Guests can choose an equestrian experience or a horseback ride from the lodge’s barn, a wildlife walk with a nature guide and fly-fishing in the summer.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Casia Lodge & Ranch
The lodge’s twelve rooms are comfortably furnished, many of them featuring French provincial antiques, king beds, quality linens and European bath products. Most rooms feature wood-burning fireplaces and patios overlooking the North Cascades. The property also includes a two-room log cabin and a three-bedroom farmhouse dating back to 1910.
written by Lauren Kramer
HISTORY
IF EVER there was a place built to showcase the beauty of the North Cascades and the Methow Valley, it’s Casia Lodge & Ranch. This boutique, twelve-room lodge opened in June 2023 on a 300-acre alpine ranch with a fascinating history. Walk through the front doors and you’re greeted by the symmetry of Sawtooth Ridge, Mount Gardner and Mount Robinson, a view that captivates from dawn to dusk as the light on the mountains changes their colors. This is a place where the Milky Way is easily visible with the naked eye, where owls swoop over the valley floor at dusk and where the trails beckon with miles of alpine hiking. Add intimate accommodations defined by good taste, decadent comfort and warm friendliness, and it’s easy to escape the pandemonium of city life and wrap yourself in the peaceful beauty of the North Cascades.
Previously known as Tice Ranch, the lodge was built in 1985 by Diane and Lou Tice, who founded the Pacific Institute, a Seattle-based corporation specializing in leadership training. It was both their private home and a corporate retreat that welcomed dignitaries, athletic superstars and celebrities until it was sold in 2012. The Seattle Mariners, NASA officials, Fortune 500 execs and Vicente Fox, president of Mexico in the early 2000s, were among the guests who overnighted with the Tices. On one of their travels abroad, the Tices learned about a British pub from 1876 that was closing down. They purchased its furnishings, dismantled them, shipped them home and reassembled them inside their ranch. Today that English pub continues its legacy inside the lodge, serving cocktails, Washington wine and other libations.
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Views from the lobby of Casia Lodge & Ranch in Twisp. Food by James Beard Award-winning chef Jason Wilson. One of just twelve rooms at the lodge.
20556 STATE ROUTE 20 TWISP www.casialodge.com
76 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Enjoy Olympic Peninsula
THE RESORT AT
Escape the hustle and bustle and immerse yourself in the natural beauty of Port Ludlow. With so many activities to choose from you’ll need more than a day to experience it all.
Start Planning Now!
Farm-to-table dining, waterfront boutique inn, 30+ miles of trails, watercraft rentals, a 18-hole championship golf course – it’s all here and ready for you to stay and play.
GATEWAY
Play.
Explore.
Indulge.
HOTEL PACKAGE
Sip • Slurp • Savor •
Experience and enjoy the Olympic Peninsula. Your playground for fun, food and adventure!
Includes one night accommodations, bottle of wine from our cellar and $100 dining vouchers to The Fireside Restaurant. Starting at $299
Relax.
Visit Port Ludlow, the gateway to your Olympic Peninsula getaway. less than two hours from Seattle Clinton
Mukilteo
Kingston Bainbridge Island
From Sea -to -Summit & Canal -to -Coast www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com
www.portludlowresort.com/1889/ TACOMA
Carina Skrobecki Swain/State of Washington Tourism
trip planner
Don’t pass up the chance for a photo in front of the camel mural by artist Don O’Connor.
Roslyn and Cle Elum Outdoor opportunities, history and a restful retreat in the Cascade Range written by Ryn Pfeuffer 78 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
TUCKED IN THE foothills of the Cascade Range, Roslyn and its neighbor Cle Elum offer a sunny escape just an hour and a half east of Seattle. Founded in the 1880s as a bustling mining camp, Roslyn’s rich history and rustic allure draw visitors seeking a glimpse of its past, including fans of the iconic TV show Northern Exposure. With around 900 residents, Roslyn retains its small-town charm while Cle Elum invites exploration of its scenic wonders and vibrant mountain resort and residential community of Suncadia. Whether you’re drawn by history or adventure, these towns promise a weekend getaway—a mere 90 miles away—that feels like a distant escape.
Suncadia
trip planner
The Inn at Suncadia is a classic venue done in the style of national park lodges.
Day COZY STAYS • WINE • MOVIES Head to Suncadia in Cle Elum, a sprawling 6,400-acre playground near Wenatchee National Forest, for all-season adventures. (Suncadia gets its name because of the region’s fantastic sunny weather.) If you’re traveling from Seattle and need a pit stop after crossing Snoqualmie Pass, swing by Lake Easton State Park for a quick break or a leisurely 4.6-mile out-and-back trail adventure, taking around ninety minutes. From there, it’s just a short fifteen-minute drive to reach Suncadia. Whether you’re seeking thrills, relaxation or simply a moment of connection with nature, Suncadia is the perfect base camp for your Pacific Northwest adventures. For a cozy getaway, check into The Inn at Suncadia. In the style of national park lodges, guests are greeted by a majestic, two-story stone fireplace upon arrival at The Inn at Suncadia, leading to eighteen charming rooms upstairs. With a laid-back vibe and intimate touches like fireplaces and tubs overlooking the bedroom, it’s the perfect retreat for couples, families and furry friends alike. Request a room overlooking Prospector Golf Course for the best view. If you prefer a mid-sized hotel experience with more amenities, the recently revitalized Lodge at Suncadia awaits. Set against the scenic Cle Elum River and the Cascade Range, the 254-room property features a fresh lobby, inviting den and chic dining spot. 80 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Once you’ve settled into your room, it’s time to kick off your adventure. Why not start with a leisurely glass of wine at Swiftwater Cellars? Perched atop Coal Mine No. 9, with sweeping views of the Rope Rider golf course, it’s the perfect spot to unwind and soak in the beauty of your surroundings. If you’re feeling peckish, the Hoist House at Swiftwater Cellars offers tasty dining options. Then head into Roslyn for dinner. Once the backdrop for the iconic 1990s TV series Northern Exposure, Roslyn exudes small-town charm and character. Be sure to snap a photo with the famous camel mural painted by local artist Don O’Connor, then indulge in some mouthwatering eats at the Roslyn Café. From their buttermilk fried chicken sandwich to beer-battered Pacific cod fish and triple-cooked fries, every tasty dish is highquality and served in hearty portions. After dinner, catch a first-run film at the historic Roslyn Theatre, a building steeped in history dating back to the 1880s. Once a mortuary, it’s now a beloved cinema where you can enjoy a bag of their top-secret recipe popcorn, topped with butter and nutritional yeast, affectionately known as “the gravy.” As the evening winds down, retreat to the comfort of The Inn at Suncadia and luxuriate in your oversized tub before drifting off into a restful slumber.
trip planner
Day
Tucked in the foothills of the Cascade Range, Roslyn and its neighbor Cle Elum offer a sunny escape just an hour and a half east of Seattle.
Carina Skrobecki Swain/State of Washington Tourism Suncadia
Begin your day with breakfast at Red Bird Café in Roslyn. Enjoy the super-friendly vibe as locals gather to savor fresh baked quiche, croissants and mouthwatering cinnamon rolls. Don’t miss out on their signature sandwiches, like The Glondo, an East Coast hoagie featuring Amoroso rolls. Or try the Bagna Beef sandwich, inspired by the famous Italian dish bagna cauda. Slow-cooked prime rib and mixed veggies are bathed in a rich bath of butter, oil, anchovies and a motherload of garlic. Need more caffeine? Grab a coffee-to-go from The Wild Flora Bakery and some macarons for later. Formerly Lemon Thyme Macarons, The Wild Flora will open a brick-and-mortar location in Cle Elum this summer. Then, dive into an adventure at Basecamp Books & Bites, a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Chat with locals and staff about hiking trails like Pete’s Lake and the Cooper River Trail while enjoying the cozy atmosphere of this bookstore, restaurant and outdoor adventure hub. Then, head across the street and dip into the Roslyn Historical Museum. Return to Suncadia and indulge in well-deserved pampering at Glade Spring Spa. Experience the bliss of a couples duo massage, then enjoy a serene soak in the outdoor tranquility pool surrounded by lush greenery. Afterward, slip into the steam room or cedar sauna. Even if you’re not staying at Suncadia, you can still treat yourself to the spa experience with a Spa Unwind session pass. Don’t miss the Summer Spa-rty Nights during the summer months, featuring a DJ party by the soaking pool with complimentary drinks and snacks. For those seeking a more active pursuit, golf enthusiasts can tee off against the stunning backdrop of majestic Mount Baldy and the snow-capped Cascades, experiencing the thrill of a perfect swing across three championship golf courses. Later that evening, treat yourself to a memorable dinner at The Stovehouse; its name is a nod to the town’s historical beginnings. Savor thoughtfully curated dishes like tempura-battered cauliflower “chicken wings” and a succulent steak au poivre filet with cracked black pepper and brandy cream sauce. Pair your meal with a thoughtfully crafted cocktail from their menu (plenty of thoughtful nonalcoholic options, too) or a glass of Washington wine.
The Wild Flora Bakery
BITES • BOOKS • SPA TIME
FROM TOP A theme and variation on the macaron at The Wild Flora Bakery. Basecamp Books & Bites is the center of gravity in Roslyn. Take in dinner and views at The Stovehouse in Cle Elum.
JUNE | JULY 2024
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 81
EAT The Brick www.bricksaloon.com The Red Bird Café www.facebook.com/theredbirdcafe Roslyn Café www.theroslyncafe.com The Stovehouse www.thestovehouserestaurant.com Swiftwater Cellars www.swiftwatercellars.com The Wild Flora Bakery @thewildflorabakery on Instagram
STAY The Inn at Suncadia www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort
PLAY
Glade Spring Spa www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort/spa Roslyn Historical Museum www.roslynmuseum.com Roslyn Movie Theater www.roslyntheatre.com
FROM TOP The Brick is reportedly the oldest saloon in Washington. Outdoor adventures with axe throwing at Suncadia. The welcome oasis of Dru Bru taproom in Cle Elum.
Day AXE THROWING • BOOZY BIKE TOUR Sleep late or partake in the plethora of activities Suncadia offers. From yoga and meditation classes to archery and axe throwing, there’s something fun for everyone. Embark on an exhilarating journey through Roslyn’s storied past with the Pints and Bikes guided bike tour, priced at $95 per person. Departing from the Suncadia Swim & Fitness Center, this immersive experience offers a glimpse into the area’s immigration and mining history. Hop on a pedal-assist e-bike and traverse approximately 5 miles of scenic landscapes, including a stop at the legendary watering hole The Brick, “the oldest saloon in Washington state.” Established in 1889, The Brick boasts a distinctive neon sign and a bar brought over from England. It’s also home to the annual spittoon races—a quirky tradition that transforms the bar’s spittoon into a miniature racecourse. Bike and helmet rentals are included, ensuring a seamless adventure for guests age 21 and older. There’s also a more extended bike trip to Dru Bru taproom in Cle Elum; the distance is about 11 miles roundtrip.
82 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Suncadia
Basecamp Books & Bites www.basecampbooks.com
Dru Bru
Activities at Suncadia www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort/activities
Jackie Dodd
ROSLYN + CLE ELUM, WASHINGTON
trip planner
YOUR SUMMER GET-A-WAY Moses Lake has fun activities for the entire family. Enjoy a day boating along Moses Lake or hiking one of the local trails. Spend the day sampling wine from one of the local wineries. Or do both! And when the sun goes down, we have you covered with unique night spots to hang out and enjoy the friends you brought with you, or hang with the locals.
Plan your visit & find summer events at
tourmoseslake.com
401 S. Balsam Street • Moses Lake, WA • 509-764-3820 • cityofml.com
Follow Us
northwest destination
Monterey
Indulge the senses one bite at a time on California’s coast written by Ryn Pfeuffer
Monterey Bay Aquarium features nearly 200 exhibits and more than 700 species.
84
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
SeeMonterey.com
PERCHED ALONG California’s picturesque central coast, Monterey beckons travelers with its rich tapestry of experiences. From its rugged coastline and world-renowned aquarium to its historic Cannery Row and award-winning wineries, this seaside gem promises something for every type of traveler. For accommodations, consider booking a stay at Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa. Its breathtaking beauty and prime location make it perfect for families or a romantic escape. Indulge in ocean-facing rooms where you can watch playful otters or enjoy your morning coffee from the comfort of a penthouse-level room with a jacuzzi and stunning ocean views. Explore the vibrant history of Cannery Row, a must-visit spot in Monterey. This iconic area holds deep significance, inspired by John Steinbeck’s renowned novel Cannery Row. Wander through its charming shops and cultured restaurants and feel the echoes of its bustling past as a sardine-canning district transformed into a lively waterfront community.
Photos: SeeMonterey.com
MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA
northwest destination
EAT Abalonetti Bar & Grill www.abalonetti.com Hula’s Island Grill www.hulastiki.com The Inn at Spanish Bay www.pebblebeach.com/ accommodations/the-innat-spanish-bay Monterey Wine Trail Tasting Rooms www.montereywines.org/wine/ tasting-rooms/monterey-winetrail-tasting-rooms Passionfish www.passionfish.net Rosine’s Restaurant www.rosinesmonterey.com
STAY CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The John Steinbeck inspiration for Cannery Row. Get outdoors with a brisk kayak in Monterey Bay. Hit Old Fisherman’s Wharf for fresh seafood.
Take a scenic drive along 17-Mile Drive for breathtaking coastal views. Pause at Pebble Beach for top-notch golf and luxury resorts, Bird Rock for birdwatching, and snap a pic at the iconic Lone Cypress. End your day at The Inn at Spanish Bay, enjoying a cocktail by the firepit with bagpipe tunes. Then head to Pacific Grove for relaxed fine dining at Passionfish, known for sustainable seafood and a great wine selection that pairs perfectly with dishes like seared scallops or California squid. Dive into marine marvels at the renowned Monterey Bay Aquarium, where you can explore giant kelp forests, watch playful sea otters and admire mesmerizing jellyfish displays. For an unforgettable adventure at sea, join a whale watching excursion with Monterey Bay Whale Watch. Encounter gray whales, humpbacks, orcas and more, guided by experts who’ll share intriguing insights. Keep an eye out for humpback whales from April to December, with peak sightings in the summer months, for an enriched experience connecting with these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat.
For a taste of Monterey’s lively waterfront vibe, stroll along Old Fisherman’s Wharf and savor local seafood delights at Abalonetti Bar & Grill. Nearby, Hula’s Island Grill offers vibrant Hawaiian-inspired dishes and occasional live music, while Rosine’s Restaurant on Alvarado Street tempts with towering slices of cake. (The chocolate black forest is to die for.) Outdoor enthusiasts can explore Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, just 15 miles south on Highway 1, for picturesque trails and stunning coastal vistas. Whether kayaking in Monterey Bay or hiking through Point Lobos, the beauty of nature awaits. In addition to its natural wonders, Monterey also has a vibrant arts and culture scene. Visit the Monterey Museum of Art to explore its impressive American and early California art collection, or catch a performance at the Golden State Theatre, a historic landmark in downtown Monterey. No trip to Monterey would be complete without exploring its wine country. Embark on a wine-tasting adventure along the River Road Wine Trail or explore the vineyards of Carmel Valley, known for their world-class wines and stunning scenery. JUNE | JULY 2024
Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa www.montereyplazahotel.com
PLAY 17-Mile Drive www.pebblebeach.com/ 17-mile-drive Cannery Row www.canneryrow.com Fisherman’s Wharf www.montereywharf.com Golden State Theatre www.goldenstatetheatre.com Monterey Bay Aquarium www.montereybayaquarium.org Monterey Bay Whale Watch www.montereybaywhale watch.com Monterey Museum of Art www.montereyart.org Point Lobos Natural Preserve www.parks.ca.gov
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 85
1889 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889. Oroville
Bellingham
San Juan Islands
Friday Harbor
North Cascades National Park
Mount Vernon
Port Port Angeles Townsend Sequim
Forks
Shelton Aberdeen
Newport
Marysville Everett Chelan
Seattle Bellevue
Port Orchard
Tacoma
Colville Okanogan
Whidbey Island
Olympic National Park
Republic
Winthrop
Leavenworth
Renton Kent Federal Way
Wilbur
Waterville
Spokane Davenport
Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville
Montesano Olympia
Mount Rainier N.P.
Ellensburg Colfax
Chehalis
South Bend
Pullman Yakima Pomeroy
Long Beach Kelso
Cathlamet
Longview
Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument
Richland
Mount Adams
Prosser
Pasco
Dayton
Walla Kennewick Walla
Goldendale Vancouver
86
Stevenson
Live
Think
Explore
18 Selah Ridge Lavender Farm
46 Rebellyous Foods
70
Marsh’s Free Museum
20 Watershed music festival
48 Metamorphosis community mural
72
Outdoors For All
28 Welly’s Real Fruit Ice Cream
50 Viva Farms
76
Casia Lodge & Ranch
29 Arrowleaf Bistro
78
Suncadia
30 Burnt Ridge Nursery & Orchards
84
Monterey, California
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2024
Asotin
Remember the last time your family visited the forest? It’s a place of wonder and imagination for the whole family—where stories come to life. And it’s closer than you think. Sounds like it’s time to plan your next visit. Make the forest part of your story today at a local park near you or find one at DiscoverTheForest.org.
Until Next Time The northern lights fill the sky above Mount St. Helens in May. photo by Armand Nour
Time to play a floating golf green. Explore a massive theme park. Stay in amazing accommodations. Visit luxurious spas. Take a lake cruise. Shop the downtown. Relax in a park. Ski epic powder. Play in a casino. Eat like a king. Zipline. Wake surf. Sail. Hike. Ice skate. Fish. Dance. Visit. It’s time to book your dream getaway!
coeurdalene.org
Continue for Special Insert
FROM A HISTORICAL long-term perspective, the U.S. dollar at $0.74 per Canadian dollar makes a compelling case for Pacific Northwesterners to seek adventures farther north and, in some cases, farther west. This summer, destinations in British Columbia will appear more compelling, not just because of the exchange rate, but also because of the range of new world-class experiences you can find in relatively undiscovered and pristine parts of this country. From far west BC surfing hot spot Tofino to a well-planned date night in Surrey and downhill biking in far eastern BC’s Fernie, you will find solitude, the exhilaration of somewhere new and the feeling that this is all just the beginning of your Canadian chapter.
Summer Going North for the
BRITISH COLUMBIA SETS IMPOSSIBLY HIGH STANDARDS FOR SUMMER RETREATS
A publication of Statehood Media www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com Cover: Island Lake near Fernie (photo: Destination BC/Kari Medig)
An aerial view of Desolation Sound on the Sunshine Coast. (photo: Destination BC/Andrew Strain) 2024 CANADIAN GETAWAYS
3
W E ST B R I T I S H CO LU M B I A
Tofino
BEACHES & BEAUTY PROVINCES in eastern Canada are known for maple syrup. In Tofino and western BC, surfing is becoming the maple syrup, though still relatively untapped. With 35 kilometers of sandy beaches, consistent waves, surf shops and lessons, Tofino is no longer a counterintuitive playground for beach culture. The best months for waves are in the fall, but summer makes for a more family-friendly experience. Find yourself at Long Beach Lodge Resort, where you can take part in on-site surf lessons, rentals and an oceanfront retreat with beach yoga. You have options when it comes to dining—from casual sandwiches and beer at the Surf Club to lemongrass noodle salad and Cox Bay chowder at the Great Room, sitting in front of a stone fireplace and overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Add to that an outdoor hot pool and cedar sauna, and you’ll have an extraordinary experience. If surfing sounds too wet for your sense of being, head to the nearby Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, where you’ll find many trails and stunning beauty. Head to the Tofino Market (Saturdays, May through October) to explore local artists and the wares of local craftspeople.
Situated on the west coast of Vancouver Island, Tofino’s waves are ready for riding. (photo: Destination BC/ Graeme Owsianski)
4
CANADIAN GETAWAYS 2024
Blackie Spit in South Surrey is an excellent location for birdwatching. (photo: BC Bird Trail/Discover Surrey)
Surrey
CITY VIBES MEET GREEN SPACES JUST NORTH of the United States border and south of Vancouver is the bustling city of Surrey. Surrey is a place for outdoor adventure followed by nights of culture and comfort. It also has many charming venues for planning a perfect date night. Start your day in one of Surrey’s green spaces, parks or beaches along the shores of Boundary Bay. Head to South Surrey to hike along the rugged shoreline or to Blackie Spit on the northern tip of Crescent Beach to discover hundreds of species of birds as part of the Pacific Flyway. Next up is a little shopping for the soul. The Shops at Morgan Crossing have everything you would expect from an upscale outdoor shopping center, from Levis to Lululemon. Or go local at Semiahmoo Potters popup gallery on Beecher Street, Mainland Whisky on 189 Street or the Belgian waffles inside of the hidden gem Leon’s Cafe on 152 Street. Art and culture should never be overlooked on a date night. Take in regional Indigenous art through a city walking tour, with creations of the Coast Salish peoples. Go to the City of Surrey’s website to find art walking tour maps. As your day winds down, book a relaxing massage or pedicure from Casbah Spa on King George
Boulevard. Other day spas in Surrey include Salt Wellness Centre, Sueño Spa and Aru Spa and Salon, to name a few. For a romantic dinner, get reservations at Old Surrey Restaurant, a force in the Surrey culinary scene for fifty years. In a setting with white tablecloths, flowers and candles, Old Surrey’s menu is a mix of local seafood and classic French fine dining— chateaubriand, breast of chicken forestière and Vancouver Island Qualicum Bay scallops. Surrey is not short on lovely lodging options either. Retire for the night at the Civic Hotel where you will be treated to a luxurious stay in the heart of downtown. Ask for a high floor to overlook the city from your suite. If you want to stay close to water, book Ocean Promenade Hotel near Crescent Beach and enjoy views of the bay from elegant modern rooms.
Take in Surrey’s public art on a walking tour of the city. (photo: Ian Harland/ Discover Surrey)
A VIBRANT MOSAIC AWAITS Discover an internationally recognized food scene, spectacular natural scenery, and more — just across the border in Surrey, British Columbia, Canada.
W E ST B R I T I S H CO LU M B I A
Sunshine Coast
ABOVE The 180-kilometer Sunshine Coast Trail is hut-to-hut hiking at its finest. (photo: Destination BC/ Andrew Strain) AT LEFT Welh Áynexw tl’a Swa7ámchet, a carving by Squamish artist Sinàmkin (Jody Broomfield), adorns the exterior wall at Gibsons Public Art Gallery. (photo: Sunshine Coast Tourism/Shayd Johnson)
ULTIMATE ADVENTURE TO THE EAST of Tofino, across Vancouver Island and the Strait of Georgia, is Canada’s Sunshine Coast. Known for its small coastal towns and harbors, Sunshine Coast is a bounty of trails, pristine fjords and provincial parks, as well as its First Nations arts and culture. Seclusion is one of the most compelling attributes of the Sunshine Coast, as it is accessible only by BC Ferries and short flights from Vancouver or Vancouver Island. The two main regions are North and South Sunshine Coast, with North Sunshine Coast being more remote and South Sunshine Coast more popular. Book a tour boat to experience the Norway of Canada. One of the most compelling
6 CANADIAN GETAWAYS 2024
and beautiful fjords in the region is the Princess Louisa Inlet, surrounded by steep granite walls and dropping 1,000 feet below sea level. As the winter’s snow melts, waterfalls cascade along the perimeter of Princess Louisa. The deepest fjord on the Sunshine Coast is Jervis Inlet, measuring 2,200 feet deep and the picturesque home to many bald eagles.
Bikes are a common and fun form of transportation throughout the region. Cycling trips along the rugged and beautiful coastline on the two-lane Highway 101 are one rite of passage. Likewise, the 180-kilometer Coastal Circle Route is a bucket list item with miles after miles of gorgeous views of the Salish Sea, four ferries and the coastlines of the
Sunshine Coast and Vancouver Island. The 180-kilometer Sunshine Coast Trail is another bucket list adventure for intrepid hikers. With fourteen first-come-firstsleep cabins along the trail from Sarah Point to Saltery Bay, you will encounter stunning coastal shorelines, old-growth forests, pristine lakes and breathtaking mountain top vistas.
YEAR-ROUN D E N J O Y ME NT Experience our hot springs pools and cave, contemporary guest rooms, Spirit Water Spa and the Ktunaxa Grill. Find out more at ainsworthhotsprings.com. Proudly owned by Yaqan Nukiy
E AST B R I T I S H CO LU M B I A
Golden
YOUR GATEWAY TO NATIONAL PARKS THE FIRST thing you must know is that you will be taken … by the beauty of Golden in the Valley of a Thousand Peaks. Surrounded by six national parks—Yoho, Banff, Glacier, Jasper, Kootenay and Mount Revelstoke—Golden is a place where your outdoor adventure fantasies all come true. Find more than 185 kilometers of cross-country mountain biking, including the smooth and flowy trails of the Moonraker network. For bigger thrills and more challenge, head to Mount 7 where you may not even notice the spectacular views along this descent. Either drive to the top of the trail network on a forest service road or make the rewarding climb on your bike. Downhill rides continue at Kicking Horse
Mountain Resort for 3,700 feet of vertical and more than thirty trails across 50 kilometers. The Kicking Horse River is also renowned for its whitewater as it runs wild and free through Kicking Horse Canyon. Canoe, kayak or SUP in the Columbia River and Wetlands. In nearby lakes and in tributaries of the Columbia, fish for rainbow trout, cutthroat trout and char. Guided wildlife-watching trips bring you closer to elk, deer, moose, bighorn sheep and even grizzly bears. In Golden, try Eleven22 for a wonderfully eclectic dinner that spans Asian, European and American cuisines, with such dishes as pork and kimchi potstickers, duck spiedini and
FROM TOP Golden is your base camp for outdoor adventure in the Canadian Rockies. Local waterways offer ample opportunity for paddleboarding, kayaking or whitewater rafting. (photos, from top: Kootenay Rockies Tourism/Mitch Winton, Destination BC/Ryan Creary)
blackened mahi mahi. The wine list is exclusively composed of wines from British Columbia. Wind down back at a mountain lodge of your choice—from
Basecamp Lodge Golden to the beautiful Winston Lodge at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. You’ll marvel at how quickly you were taken.
Ainsworth Hot Springs
A REJUVENATING WELLNESS RETREAT
Enjoy a scenic soak alongside Kootenay Lake in the natural hot springs at Ainsworth. (photo: Destination BC/Kari Medig)
8 CANADIAN GETAWAYS 2024
IN EASTERN British Columbia and a little more than 90 miles north of the Washington border is the Ainsworth Hot Springs. Owned by the Ktunaxa First Nations people, Ainsworth was recently ranked as one of Condé Nast Traveler’s best wellness retreats in the world. It’s no surprise to anyone who has visited the hot springs adjacent to Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park and along the banks of Kootenay Lake. The air is clean and the spring water rejuvenating. The natural springs come
up from deep in the earth and surface to cooled temperatures of 108 degrees into the 150-footlong, horseshoe-shaped natural limestone cave and to 96 degrees for the main pool. The yearround hot springs at Ainsworth also have a nice stream-fed cool-water plunge pool as well as a lounging pool. The resort’s lodgings are cozy and with stunning views. The Ktunaxa Grill features a refreshingly creative menu. Think Salt Spring Island mussels, wild game chili and arugula beet salads.
Photo by Agathe Bernard
At the heart of it.
Golden BC, at the Heart of Your Parks Adventure Sitting at the confluence of two historic rivers, Golden B.C. is an authentic mountain town at the doorstep of the Canadian Rockies. Golden is surrounded by six of Canada’s most stunning national parks: Yoho, Glacier, Banff, Jasper, Kootenay, and Mount Revelstoke. This unique location makes Golden the ideal place to experience the spectacular scenery, iconic hiking trails, waterfalls, lakes, and heritage sites of the national parks. Enjoying what Golden has to offer is even better after a great night’s sleep, with plenty of accommodation options such as luxury mountain homes, charming rustic cabins, and full-service hotels. We hope to see you in Golden for your next adventure.
Start planning: lovethenationalparks.com
Get the FREE Golden APP tourismgolden.com/localapp
Safety is your responsibility. Be prepared and always respect the environment. Find more hints and tips on travelling safely and responsibly at www.tourismgolden.com/travel
E AST B R I T I S H CO LU M B I A
Fernie is a mountain biker’s dream in the summer. (photo: Destination BC/Kari Medig)
10 CANADIAN GETAWAYS 2024
FROM TOP Find hiking trails for all skill levels near Fernie. Peaks surround this idyllic mountain town. (photo: Kootenay Rockies Tourism/Mitch Winton/Island Lake Lodge, Kootenay Rockies Tourism/Mitch Winton)
Fernie
A FOUR-SEASON STUNNER NEITHER the coal mines nor the belated railroad access did the trick. Eventually its mountains and beauty became its sustainable industry—four-season recreation. Located 242 miles northeast of Spokane and surrounded by the Canadian Rockies, the small mountain town Fernie is renowned for its snowfall and its ski resort. In the summer, Fernie Alpine Resort becomes a downhill biking mecca, served by two lift chairs that access miles of novice to expert downhill trails. This summer, Fernie adds new biking and hiking access from Timber Chair and a playground for kids. In town, Fernie has a wellkept network of walking and biking trails. Mount Fernie
Provincial Park has well-marked easy hikes, as Lizard Creek tumbles through before plunging into a waterfall into Elk River. Fairy Creek is another 4.6-kilometer roundtrip easy option that ends at Fairy Creek Falls. For lunch at the Fernie base village, try Legends Mountain Eatery, which has two kinds of poutine on its menu, plus burgers, sandwiches, beer and wine. In town for dinner, head to Yamagoya Sushi for sashimi and ramen or to The Fernie Taphouse for daily happy hour. End your day at The Spa at Island Lake Lodge, which has spectacular mountain views as well as a cedar barrel sauna, a hot pool and spa services to enhance your wellness.
2024 CANADIAN GETAWAYS
11
Summer in the Canadian Rockies
World-class Fly Fishing • Golfing • Hiking • Mountain Biking • Rafting, Kayaking, SUP • Spa • Dining • Shopping
Fernie is a friendly mountain community in the Rocky Mountains of southeast British Columbia. Summer is the perfect time to explore our beautiful landscapes, lush valleys and clear waterways. Experience the historic downtown, endless outdoor activities, quaint attractions and local arts and culture. Just over 100 miles north of Kalispell, MT and the Glacier Park International Airport. Save approx. 30% on everything thanks to the great exchange rate!
TourismFernie.com | #ferniestoke
