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Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail
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º u˜-h
Newsletter Issue.15
04-06.2022
社區 / 十問十答 認識城寨今昔 About the Past and Present of Kowloon Walled City
消息 / 疫下．線上遊 Online Activities During the Outbreak
焦點 / 社區攝影比賽 2022 Community Photography Competition 2022
城寨 傳奇
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Editor' s Note
九龍城寨，一個難以複製的香港傳奇。這個傳奇有不同的論述，有人視之為都市奇觀，從建築、規劃角度拆解人與空 間的關係；也有人從歷史入手，剖析城寨的淵源與地緣政治。認識城寨有許多切入點，普通人又如何理解這個地方？ 有居民多年後重遊寨城公園，被小朋友問「你是不是壞人」，這段對話讓他耿耿於懷，因為在他心目中城寨的生活有 苦有甜，絕不只有黑暗，城寨被妖魔化了。 今期專題我們重回城寨，以十問十答梳理這個傳奇之地。此外，我們亦邀請了歷史學家陸人龍博士講述九龍城的源起 與發展。 Kowloon Walled City was a Hong Kong legend that is hard to replicate. People hold different views towards it. Some consider it an urban spectacle and analyse the relationship between people and space from the perspective of architecture and planning; some analyse the origin with geopolitics from historical perspective. Which is the best entry point for ordinary people to understand this place? A former resident was upset to hear a child asking if he was a bad guy during a visit to Kowloon Walled City Park. The conversation lingered in his mind for long, since life in the walled city was mixed with bitter and sweet moments, not entirely the darkness. The walled city was mistakenly demonised. In this issue, we summarise the stories of this legendary place with 10 questions and answers. We are also honoured to feature an article by historian Dr Michael Y.L. Luk to talk about the origin and development of Kowloon City.
九龍城主題步行徑辦公室： 九龍馬頭涌真善美村低座一樓 Office: 1/F, Lower Block, Chun Seen Mei Chuen, Ma Tau Chung, Kowloon
º u˜-h
Newsletter Issue.15
04-06.2022
編輯：伍麗微 Edited by Christy Ng
設計排版：黃雪瑩 Designed by SY Wong
編審：陳詠琳、鄭詠恩 Reviewed by Gwyneth Chan, Vivian Cheng
督印人：何穎儀 Supervised by Joyce Ho
印量：8,000 8,000 copies in print
躍變．龍城體驗館： 九龍譚公道115號運通大廈地下5號舖 Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre： Shop No.5, Ground Floor, Wan Tung Building, No. 115 Tam Kung Road, Kowloon
E¸‡ P' Free Copies
01C U/o •6'9¸'Œ Mobile App C¶+=DownloadNow
電話 Tel：+852 3183 0928 電郵 Email：kctwt@skhwc.org.hk 傳真 Fax：+852 3104 9911 網址 Web：kowlooncitywalkingtrail.hk 步蹤電子版 Newsletter e-version： issuu.com/kowloon.city.walking.trail
Kowloon.City.Walking.Trail
出版日期：2022年5月
Kowloon
First edition May 2022
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CityWalkingTrail
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designs of each route via online platforms, school
碼頭 Pier
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Information Panel
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Kwun Yam Temple
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資訊指示牌
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Ch 北 道 咸 漆
佛光街天橋
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2 “Remnants of the Song Dynasty”. Route 1 starts from
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馬 頭 圍 道
St
The enhancement works of Route 3, 4 and 5 connecting
Nam Kok Road and connects via the outer of the Kowloon
庇利街 Bailey St
Pak Tai Temple
里
of new infill floor and paving blocks, new light pole sign
works for Route 1 “The History of Walled City” and Route HUNG HOM
崇 安 街
欄杆
Railing
includes the renewal of planter and railings, installation
completed. Our team is now preparing the hardware
浙江街 Chi Kiang St
燈柱裝飾
facilities on trail have undergone upgrading, which
To Kwa Wan and Hung Hom have been substantially
街
Hoi Sham Park
燈柱裝飾
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which is the longest of its kind in Hong Kong. The public
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St
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資訊指示牌
Consisting of 5 designated routes, the Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail has a total length of 6.5 kilometers,
頭街
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Information Panel
廟堂之旅 我信我在
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Today in History
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躍變 ．龍城體驗館 躍變龍
資訊指示牌
Information Panel
碼頭 Pier
* Final design of public facilities may vary subject to government department approval and on site adjustment and modification.
9DL¢
Feature Story
三不管、貧民窟、黃賭毒、黑暗之城，相信是許多人 對九龍城寨的第一印象，但實際是否如此？步行徑的第 一路段，正正圍繞九龍城寨而行，在更新硬件設施的同 時，我們亦結合歷史資料與居民分享，細述城裏城外的 故事。 The lawless enclave, the slum, the hotbed of crime, “the City of Darkness”...these are the first impressions many people may have of Kowloon Walled City, but is this actually the case? Route 1 of the Walking Trail, in which public facilities are under renovation, goes around the former site of the walled city. Based on historical data and resident sharing, we would like to share the following stories that happened inside and outside the city.
九龍城寨可有正名？ What is the official name of the walled city? 最初為九龍寨，後來築建城牆，有了九龍寨城的說法， 過去亦有人稱為九龍城砦。惟日佔時期日軍拆毀城牆， 寨。1990年代城寨清拆後，官方正名為九龍寨城。本
早期的城寨是怎樣的？
文則以較為人熟知的「城寨」稱之。
What was the early walled city like?
Originally known as “Gau-lung-zaai” (Kowloon
城寨前身是一條村落，清朝康熙時期設烽火台，是一
這一帶後被劃入九龍城發展區，人們遂稱之為九龍城
1
Fort), the site was further developed into a garrison city built with a massive stone wall. That was how the saying of “walled city” came into being, though the Japanese troops tore down the wall during the Japanese Occupation period. The city was later listed under the Kowloon City developing area and people started to call it “Gau-lung-sing-zaai” (Walled Kowloon City). After the city demolition in the 1990s, the name “Gau-lung-zaai-sing” (Kowloon Walled City) was declared officially.
2
個防禦外敵的據點。由於它在鴉片戰爭時發揮了戰略 作用，朝廷修築城池，吸引人們入城居住，慢慢形成 聚落。
Previously a village, the site was turned into a military outpost built with a signal station during Kangxi period in Qing dynasty. Due to its strategic significance in the Opium War, the imperial court decided to turn it into a garrison town with a defensive wall and formed residential settlements.
昔 今 寨 城 識 認 /05
it y o w lo o n W al le d C K f o t n se re P d A b o u t th e P as t an
為甚麼會有「三不管」的說法？ 中英就城寨管治可有角力？ Why did it become a“lawless enclave”? 中方在1898年簽訂《展拓香港界址專條》時，為避免
Was there a tug of war between the Chinese and British over the city’s governance?
日後收回租借地出現困難，指定九龍城寨不在租借範
有。1948年發生的「九龍城事件」便是一例。英方為
圍內。英方後來雖有意接管，但礙於條約精神而不敢妄
了行使主權，強行驅趕及清拆城寨的木屋，引起居民
為，中方後來因戰亂而淡出，港府則除了嚴重事件外不
憤怒，遂向中方求助，最終官民釀成衝突，造成兩死六
多干涉。
傷。此事激發全國示威潮，中英雙方各執己見。
When signing the Convention for the Extension of
Yes. The Kowloon City Incident in 1948 was an
Hong Kong Territory in 1898, to secure a smoother
example. As a measure to exercise sovereignty,
return of the leased territories, the Chinese
the British side forcibly demolished the huts and
government requested Kowloon Walled City to be
expelled squatters in the city. The furious residents
exempted from the lease. The British side once
turned to the Chinese side for help. Eventually a
showed intention to take over the jurisdiction, but it
conflict broke out and resulted in two deaths and
refrained from violating the spirit of the convention
six injuries. The incident sparked protests across
with any rash act. The Chinese side later faded out
China. Both sides stuck to their own views regarding
from the disputes due to internal wars, while the
the incident.
3
British colonial government only interfered when serious incidents happened.
城寨的黃賭毒是如何形成的？ Why did the city become a hotbed of prosti tution, gambling and drugs abuse? 龍津碼頭建成後已有賭商進駐，吸引不少遊客前來賭 錢，西方遊客更將私人決鬥帶入寨城。九龍城事件後， 非法活動更為猖獗，煙窟、賭館、妓寨、狗肉店隨處可
5
見，脫衣舞風行，製毒販毒盛行。 After the completion of Long Tsun Pier, the emergence of gambling operators in the city attracted tourists. Tourists from the West even introduced duelling into the city. After the Kowloon City
Incident,
illegal
activities
thrived
further.
Smoking dens, gambling halls, brothels, meat dog shops were everywhere. Striptease, drug production and trafficking were prevalent.
4
城內的設施如何？ What services and facilities were available in the city? 城內有龍津義學、老人中心、青年中心，亦有福利會 協調大小事務及「發展商」處理租務、物業買賣等。城 內亦有不少食物加工場、餐廳，居民會在城外工作及消 費，衣食住行不缺。 Lung Tsun Communal School and community centres for elderlies and teenagers were established. There were also welfare associations that helped coordinate various social affairs and the so-called “property developers” responsible for the leasing and sales. The city also housed a number of food processing plants and restaurants. The residents would work and shop outside the city.
城寨的建築佈局如何？ What was the architectural layout of the city? 早期的城寨以磚屋為主，後來寮屋愈來愈多，至1970 年代，有發展商先囤積一批屋宇，與鄰近業主協商再作 重建，建成密密麻麻的大廈。這些大廈的內部間隔多仿 照第二期公屋而建，每一層都有長長的走廊，大廈之間 「孖住孖住」，四通八達。 In the early years, brick houses dominated the city. Squatter houses grew with time. In the 1970s, property developers began to acquire a certain amount of houses and worked with the owners in the neighbourhood to rebuild them into dense buildings. Their internal partitions resembled the second generation of public housing estates. There was a long corridor on each floor and buildings were connected in all directions.
居民可有深刻的經歷？ What was the most unforgettable thing about living in the city? 衛生環境相當惡劣，街道內有垃圾堆積、漏水嚴重。大 廈低層設有食品加工場，如燒臘、製麵等，食物味道混 雜後產生異味，而且火災頻生。 The sanitation was extremely poor. Garbage piled up and there were serious water leakage problems on the streets. Food processing plants such as Chinese roasted meat and noodles occupied the lower floors of the buildings. The mixture of food flavour produced unpleasant odour and caused fire easily.
城寨歷史為何重要？ /07
Why is the walled city’s history important? 城寨的出現與發展難以複製，它從混雜到居安，見證香 港人充滿生命力的韌性。看似毫無規劃的建築，地盡其 用的特性，小而精的居住空間，讓低下階層有瓦遮頭， 也是認識昔日生活史的切入點，乃至於清拆後的公園規 劃及保育方針，也為九龍城未來的發展留下註腳。
鄰里之間關係怎樣？ How was the relationship between neighbours? 在城寨居住的人來自五湖四海，而城寨的四通八達恰恰
9
縮減人與人的距離，加上大多是基層出身，大家不問出
The emergence and development of the walled city
10
was difficult to replicate. Running the community from chaotic to peaceful showed the resilience of Hong Kong people. The seemingly unplanned buildings demonstrated the utilisation of limited land. The tiny yet refined living space provided shelter to the lower class, which was a good entry point for understanding the lifestyle in the past. The post-demolition planning and conservation policy
處，互相分享食物、幫忙照顧小孩，甚至會有對方的家
have left a footnote for the future development of
中鎖匙。
Kowloon City.
Residents came from different parts of the world. The extensive connectivity in the walled city helped reduce the distance between people. Since most of them were the grassroots, they often shared food and babysat each other’s children. Some even held each other’s home keys.
後記
The Postscript
雖然沒有機會親眼目睹城寨的盛景，但有幸認識一些 街坊，知道不少城寨的見聞。城寨常被喻為「黑暗之 城」，但黑暗以外，更多的是溫暖、有人情味的一面， 譬如為上門安裝的工人打開雪櫃門，讓他們感受一點涼 意；過時過節為鄰居送上家鄉菜。時至今日，依然有街 坊日日到寨城公園，為大家講述城寨點滴。這樣一個神 奇之地，值得好好認識，不是嗎？ Though I was unable to witness the spectacle in person, I was fortunate to hear a lot about the walled city from local residents. Often referred to as the “City of Darkness”, the city was indeed filled with humanity. For example, when the installation workers came over, the residents would open the refrigerator door to make them feel cooler; neighbours
shared
hometown
dishes
together
during festive occasions. Until now, many former residents talk about their stories in the Kowloon Walled City Park every day. A legendary place is worth getting to know, isn’t it? 圖片來源：香港歷史博物館、 Greg Girard、Ian Lambot、 Adolfo Arranz Image Source: Hong Kong Museum of History, Greg Girard, Ian Lambot, Adolfo Arranz
9DL¢
Feature Story
陸人龍博士
Dr Michael Y.L. Luk 歷史學家，曾任教香港大學歷史系，專研中國近代史、 當代中國發展、全球化、國際政治等。 A historian, former lecturer at the University of Hong Kong’s Department of History. His main areas of research include modern and contemporary China, global developments and international politics.
認識九龍城 還原歷史軌跡
/09
Learning about Kowloon City and Restoring its Historical Traces
宋皇臺聖山遺蹟的發現，引證九龍城的歷史源遠流長， 這地區早於宋代已有村落及人們活動的痕跡。若尋根究 底，九龍城的發展軌跡與中國的航海歷史，甚至古代海 上絲綢之路息息相關。 小故事可以串連大歷史。南宋逃亡的皇帝為何會踏足香 港的九龍灣而不是廣東沿海其他地方？屯門於千多年前 已被載入史冊，屯門與九龍灣海域以至九龍城，在歷史 上有沒有關聯？鴉片戰爭後英國人為甚麼來香港？長洲 的張保仔洞與上述各事件又有沒有關係？歷史學家陸人 龍博士指，認識九龍城，可從屯門，以至古代海上貿易 之路說起。
The discovery of the relics of Sacred Hill (Sung Wong Toi) testifies to the long history of Kowloon City, with villages and traces of human activities in the area dating back to the Song Dynasty. If we explore further, the development of Kowloon City has closely linked to China's maritime history and even the ancient Maritime Silk Road. Small stories link to big history. Why did the fugitive emperor of the Southern Song Dynasty set foot in Kowloon Bay, Hong Kong, rather than elsewhere along the Guangdong coast? Tuen Mun has been recorded in the annals of history for more than a thousand years. Is there any historical connection between Tuen Mun and the waters of Kowloon Bay and even Kowloon City? Why did the British come to Hong Kong after the Opium War? Was Cheung Po Tsai Cave in Cheung Chau related to these events? According to historian Dr Michael Y.L. Luk, the history of Kowloon City can be traced back to Tuen Mun and the ancient maritime trade route.
屯門載入史冊
Record of Tuen Mun in the Annals of Chinese History
海上貿易之路是中國古時與外國貿易與文化往來的
The Maritime Trade Route, also known as the Maritime
海上通道，又稱海上絲綢之路。秦漢以來，中國的 海上貿易日漸頻繁，廣州是南海貿易的重要港口， 上世紀80年代於廣州出土的中原文物與西亞及西
Silk Road, was a maritime route for trade and cultural exchange between China and foreign countries. Since the Qin and Han dynasties, China's maritime trade has become increasingly frequent, with Guangzhou being an important port for trade in the South China Sea,
印度洋文物可引證此點。至唐代，南海貿易更為興
as evidenced by the excavation of artefacts from the
旺，朝廷遂於廣州開闢「通海夷道」，設置相當於
Ocean in the 1980s. During the Tang Dynasty, trade in
Chinese mainland, Western Asia and the West Indian
海關的「市舶使」。當時出入廣州的船隻多在屯門
the South China Sea became even more prosperous.
停泊，稍事休息及補給。朝廷於736年正式在此設
yidao' in Guangzhou and set up an equivalent customs
The imperial court opened up a sea route, 'tonghai
鎮，駐兵2,000人，屯門之名亦由此而來。屯，有
commission, 'Shi bo si'. At that time, ships were entering
屯兵之意；門，出入海上之門戶都稱為「門」，澳
Mun for rest and supplies. In 736, the imperial court
門、虎門、鯉魚門等都是。 隋唐時代海絲路愈趨成熟，北延至長江下游的江南 一帶，當時開闢了隋唐大運河，其後大量瓷器開始 經海路輸出。彼時，來自阿拉伯的使者也多，他們 經印度洋而來，由屯門、廣州、福建一帶的港口， 北上寧波、南京、揚州，再經隋唐大運河直入長 安。屯門作為廣州的外港，可說是重要的交通樞 紐，這也是它被載入史冊的主要原因。
and leaving Guangzhou and stopped en route in Tuen officially established a town with a garrison of 2,000 troops, which gave rise to the name "Tuen Mun". Tuen, meaning "cantonment", and Mun, meaning "gateway" for entering and leaving the sea, such as Macau (pronounced as "Ou Mun" in Cantonese), Humen ("Fu Mun" in Cantonese) and Lei Yue Mun. During the Sui and Tang dynasties, the Maritime Silk Road became more sophisticated, extending north to the downstream of the Yangtze River in the Jiangnan area, where the Sui-Tang Grand Canal was opened, and a large amount of porcelain began to be exported via the sea. At that time, there were also many ambassadors from Arabia, who travelled via the Indian Ocean from the ports of Tuen Mun, Guangzhou and Fujian, north to Ningbo, Nanjing and Yangzhou, and then to Chang'an via the Sui-Tang Grand Canal. Tuen Mun, as the outer port of Guangzhou, was an important transport hub, and this is the main reason it is recorded in the annals of Chinese history.
《粵大記．廣東沿海圖》節錄重繪
/1
©政府新聞處
Information Services Department, Hong Kong SAR Government
宋皇臺的由來 宋時南海貿易更為繁盛，中國的瓷器手工精巧，深 受外商歡迎，經江南的杭州與寧波等出口，船隻南
The Origin of Sung Wong Toi During the Song Dynasty, the South China Sea trade flourished. Chinese porcelain was very popular with foreigners for its exquisite craftsmanship, and it was
行，會進入九龍灣停泊，九龍灣與土瓜灣一帶因而
exported via Hangzhou and Ningbo in the south of the
有重要發展，土瓜灣村、彭蒲圍村、蒲崗村等村落
Bay to anchor. The area around Kowloon Bay and
Yangtze River. Ships travelling south entered Kowloon
相繼形成。南宋末年，元兵攻佔臨安，宋朝遺臣奉
To Kwa Wan thus saw significant development, with
趙昰為帝，循海路逃難，南下第一個據點為九龍
Kong forming one after another. At the end of the
villages such as To Kwa Wan, Pang Po Wei and Po
灣。當時九龍灣設置了官辦的鹽場，名官富場，人
Southern Song Dynasty, when the Yuan army seized
口多是福建沿海而來的移民。宋帝在這裡度過一段
by the sea with Zhao Shi enshrined as their emperor,
Lin'an, the surviving officials of the Song Dynasty fled
短暫的日子後，到元兵追至，逃到大嶼山後身亡，
and their first base in the south was Kowloon Bay. At
遺臣遂推舉趙昺為少帝，最後逃至新會崖山跳海身
as "Kwun Fu Cheung" (meaning "wealth-generating salt
亡，宋朝劃上句號。元朝時後人為了紀念這段歷
pans of the government" in Chinese), and was primarily
史，於土瓜灣立「宋王臺」石碑，宋皇臺的故事由
Song Emperor had taken a short refuge there before
此而來。
that time, Kowloon Bay had state-run salt pans, known
populated by immigrants from the Fujian coast. The being pursued by Yuan soldiers and fleeing to Lantau Island, where he died. Zhao Bing was then enthroned as the young emperor, and he eventually fled to Xinhui Yashan and jumped into the sea, bringing the Song dynasty to a close. To commemorate this period of history, the Song remnants in the Yuan times elected a stone monument called "Sung Wong Toi" in To Kwa Wan, from which the story of Sung Wong Toi originated.
澳門與張保仔
Macau and Cheung Po Tsai
十五世紀初，明代鄭和下西洋，締造了海絲路另一
In the early 15th century, Zheng He's expedition to
高峰，之後中國的航海事業黯然退潮，反而西方在
in another peak period in the development of the
the 'West Oceans' during the Ming Dynasty ushered
十五世紀末至十六世紀，邁入大航海時代，葡萄
Maritime Silk Road. After that, the Chinese seafaring
牙、西班牙人遠渡來到東方，葡人船隻停泊屯門，
Exploration in the late fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
industry ebbed, while the West entered the Age of
在此聚居，引起中國政府不滿，觸發中、葡海戰，
The Portuguese and Spaniards came to the East from
葡萄牙人最終敗走流竄，30多年後登陸澳門媽閣
there, causing discontent with the Chinese Government
廟，獲准於此定居經商，澳門遂取代屯門，成為
and triggering the Sino-Portuguese naval war. The
廣州的外港。歐洲船隻停泊澳門，各國成立貿易窗
30 years later, they returned to A-Ma Temple in Macau
口、代理公司等，澳門一躍成為國際貿易的重要城 市。十八世紀清乾隆時期，朝廷僅允許廣州一地通 商，澳門更形重要，香港卻一度淪為海盜巢穴，張 保仔冒起，據說全盛時期坐擁六百艘船隻及四萬從 眾，雄霸廣東沿海，並在港島的西營盤及東營盤建 立基地。海盜的出沒，正正因為窺見海絲路帶來的 蓬勃貿易活動。
afar, and their ships docked in Tuen Mun and settled
Portuguese were finally defeated and fled. More than and were allowed to settle and do business there, thus replacing Tuen Mun as the outer port of Guangzhou. European ships berthed in Macau, and trading offices and agencies were set up by various countries, making Macau an important city for international trade. During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty in the 18th century, the imperial court only allowed overseas trades in Guangzhou, placing Macau in a more critical position, while Hong Kong became a nest of pirates. With the rise of Cheung Po Tsai, he is said to have had 600 ships and 40,000 followers in his heyday, dominating the Guangdong coast and establishing bases in Sai Ying Pun and Tung Ying Pun in Hong Kong Island. The pirates were out in force precisely because they saw the flourishing trade activities that the Maritime Silk Road brought.
鴉片戰爭前後
The Background and Aftermath of the Opium War
在廣州「一口通商」年代，西方國家對中國的茶
During the era of the Canton System in Guangzhou,
葉、瓷器、絲綢需求龐大，歐美多國紛紛在廣州設
there was a huge demand for Chinese tea, porcelain and silk from Western countries, and many European
洋行經銷。另一方面，西方國家進入工業革命時
and American countries set up foreign companies in
代，率先工業化的英國積極找尋原料和開拓市場，
Guangzhou to distribute them. On the other hand, as
在印度及東南亞建立殖民地，瞄準人口龐大的中國 市場。他們在印度、斯里蘭卡種茶葉，以取代中國 茶，又種植鴉片輸入中國，以平衡貿易。惟中國政 府禁鴉片，英國人便以珠江口和屯門為走私點。中
the West entered the industrial revolution, Britain, the pioneer to industrialise, actively sought raw materials and markets, establishing colonies in India and Southeast Asia, targeting the vast Chinese market. They grew tea in India and Sri Lanka to replace Chinese tea and opium imported into China to balance the
/13 國在此後幾十年白銀大量外流，又出現嚴重社會問 題。清廷迫不得已，派林則徐到廣東禁煙，觸發中
trade. However, the Qing Government banned opium, so the British used the estuary of the Pearl River and Tuen Mun as smuggling points. There was a massive
英戰爭。清軍敵不過船堅炮利的英軍，戰敗下簽訂
outflow of silver from China in the following decades
《南京條約》，割讓香港島。
and serious social problems. The Qing court had no
英國人在走私鴉片時，發現維多利亞港水深海闊，
opium, triggering the First Opium War. The Qing army
屬天然良港，遂以兩次戰爭先後奪取香港島及九龍
and powerful weapons, and was forced to sign the
半島，後來再租借新界。 香港自鴉片戰爭後，取代了澳門及廣州，成為中國
choice but to send Lin Zexu to Guangdong to curb was outmatched by the British, who had strong vessels Treaty of Nanking, ceding Hong Kong Island. When the British smuggled opium, they found that Victoria Harbour was a natural harbour with deep water
南方最重要的港口。原有過百洋行紮根的廣州，因
and wide seas, so they seized Hong Kong Island and
黃埔港的沒落而失色，洋行、外商逐步遷移至香
the Kowloon Peninsula in two wars and later leased the
港，黃埔船廠也遷至九龍。香港成為世界著名的轉 口港和外商出入中國的門戶。 中國在割讓九龍之後，在九龍城留下一個駐守點，
New Territories. Since the Opium War, Hong Kong has replaced Macau and Guangzhou as the most important port in southern China. Guangzhou, where more than 100 foreign companies had their roots, was lost due to the decline
大家稱之為九龍城寨。後來清朝覆亡、政局混亂，
of Huangpu port. Foreign companies and businessmen
九龍城寨進入無管治狀態，英國政府亦不作規管，
gradually moved to Hong Kong, and the Huangpu
九龍城寨逐漸成為所謂的「黑暗之城」。「大歷史
world-renowned entrepôt and a gateway to China for
shipyard was moved to Kowloon. Hong Kong became a
便是如此，九龍灣以至九龍城都是歷史的小點，是
foreign investors.
大故事中的小故事，由小故事去了解大歷史，這些
After the cession of Kowloon, China left a garrison in
小故事一有屯門和九龍灣扣連海絲路，二是九龍城
Kowloon City, which was known as Kowloon Walled
與（中英）條約所產生的各種發展。」陸博士總 結道。
City. With the fall of the Qing Dynasty and the political chaos, Kowloon Walled City became ungoverned and unregulated by the British Government. Kowloon Walled City gradually became the so-called 'city of darkness'. "This is the case with the big history. Kowloon Bay and Kowloon City are small parts of history, small stories within the big story, and from the small stories, we can understand the big history. These small stories include the links between Tuen Mun, Kowloon Bay and the Maritime Silk Road, and the various developments brought about by Kowloon City and the Sino-British treaty," Dr Luk concluded.
圖片來源 Image Source：Greg Girard & Ian Lambot
出生後我在九龍城寨第三街居住，童 少足跡，亦目睹不少趣事。小時候大
年時在城寨留有不
家喜歡在樓下對出 的空 地玩 射波 子， 但不 時有 大哥 哥穿 着膠 拖鞋 來「 夾 走」波子，因為鞋底有空格子可壓入 波子。我們在跳飛
機時會背對着抛豆袋來定目標，玩拍 時，可取走疊於別人之下的公仔紙。
公仔紙和吹公仔紙
每當大雨後，我們 亦在溝渠邊放紙摺船仔，因溝渠可連接其 他街道。 由於附近居所有人供應毒品，所以有 治安尚算不俗，沒有偷搶出現，反而
很多道友出沒，但
每當警察來掃場總 是雞 飛狗 走。 我們 細路 仔便 成班 到溝 渠邊 挖掘 人們 埋 藏的 三個 五（ 555） 煙仔 鐵盒 所裝 的鴉 片糕 ，一 盒有 四 個，拿來混着泥土做黏土玩。 城寨內四通八達，很多美食。每逢魯 免費派飯，記得滷水魷魚和豬肉都非 寨也很精彩，付兩毫子便可在舖內坐 聽說大人節目便是關起閘看脱衣舞。 每逢狂風暴雨，整個城寨都水浸，高 多父母托着孩子在膊頭上返學。而第 樂善堂小學，門口總是擠滿小販檔， （蜘蛛），可以玩抽紙仔和有色竹籤 仔和蠶蟲售賣，真的很熱鬧。
班誕，木工舖外會
常好味。晚上的城
凳子看黑白電視，
度至大人腰部，很
三街出口對面便是
賣零食、賣金絲貓
中獎遊戲，及有公
/15
生，你在 每時每地都有不同的故事發 步行 徑 社區 裡有 哪些 經歷 和回 憶？ 不論是關 現正收集九龍城區的故事， 是生活小 於舊區變遷、街坊鄰里，還 。
事，都歡迎投稿與我們分享
all the Different stories happen are your time everywhere. What ries in the experiences and memo collecting community? We are now District, y Cit stories of the Kowloon nges in the whether it is about the cha d, or the hoo old district, the neighbour welcome to little things of life, you are h us. contribute and share wit
I had been living on Third Street in Kowloon Walled City since I was born. In my child hood, I spent much time exploring the place and witnessed many interesting stories. Marble shooting was very popular among the kids in the open spac es downstairs. Sometimes the tricky young adults came to take our marbles away by digging them into the treads of their plastic slippers. We playe d hopscotch by standing back to the court and toss ing the bean bag to decide which square to hop to. Card games such as milk caps were also played. Afte r heavy rain, we always enjoyed folding paper boat s and watched them floating along the ditch to the next block. There was a drug supplier in the neighbourhood, so we often saw drug addicts hang ing around. Fortunately, the crime rate remained at a lower level and rubbery never happened. When it became chaotic during the police raids, other kids and I would dig out the 555 cigarette silver boxe s hidden by the drug addicts from the ditch. Each box contained four lumps of opium. We mixed them with soil and played like clay. Every part of the walled city was well connected.
R e a d e r Contribution
The city was a gourmet heaven. I still remember the free meals offered by carpentry shop s on Lu Pan Patron's Day. The braised squid and pork in master stock were outstanding. The city’s nigh tlife was also fun and diverse. A seat for watching monochrome television cost 20 cents. Rumour had it that the shop would turn into a stripper club for adults when the shutter rolled down. Storm caused severe floods in the walled city. The water level could rise above the wais t of an adult. Parents sent their children to scho ol by carrying them on their shoulders. At the end of Third Street sat Lok Sin Tong Primary School, where street hawkers always gathered at the entra nce. They sold stuff from snacks, dolls to insects such as Thiania subopressa, a kind of jumping spider, and silkworms. Prize winning games by drawing slips and coloured bamboo sticks were also available. What a scene it was! /文 Text：Chow Hoi Leung
-hL~K
Next Issue
i
'T
/17
舊區的街道百看不厭，招牌、霓紅燈、手寫字、毛筆字， 千變萬化，反映城市的組成與變遷。九龍城區唐樓林立， 過去的歷史與工業發展，構成這個地方的紋理，而字體則 是了解社區的切入點之一。你有在街上見過獨特的街招或 字體嗎？召集所有街拍者，一起追尋城市字體。 The streetscape in the old area is always fascinating. The street typography provides a window to look into the city’s formation and changes. The long historical and industrial development contributes to the unique urban texture in Kowloon City. Have you ever captured
1
any impressive typography in the area? Share with us!
C¶C9ŒSubmitNowRM 投稿一經採用，將獲薄酬。 Once your article is accepted, a gift voucher will be given.
Typography in the City
1‘uL•
REC
Programme Review
6æ
R> O + º
It has been a tough time for many in the past few months. Our team is missing the days of meeting everyone face-to-face in guided tours
O n l i n e A c t i v i t i eand sworkshops. During the stay-home period, we organised a number of online workshops D u r i n g t h e O u t b r e aandksharing sessions, which include “Robot R: Timber Recycling Robot Workshop”, “Shimmering 過去幾個月，大家都過得不容易。在疫情蔓延的季
Treasure Box Design Workshop”, “Fly Over
節，小朋友提早放暑假，大人們忙着抗疫及搜刮物
Kowloon City: Handmade Leather DIY Workshop”
資，想念可以外出的日子，也想念久未見面的朋友。
and “Kowloon City’s Signboards Sharing Seminar”.
步行徑與大家一樣，都很想念一起出團、一起做工作
We received overwhelming response that seats
坊的日子。在停工停課的日子裏，我們先後舉辦了多
were taken up soon after the registration opened.
場線上工作坊及分享會，包括「Robot R：回收木材
Many participants found the sharing of signboard
機械人」、「琉璃寶盒設計工作坊」、「飛越龍城：
typefaces very inspiring and were looking forward
手工皮革工作坊」、「字遊九龍城：字體招牌分享
to sessions of different topics in the future.
會」等，報名反應非常熱烈並迅速爆滿，亦有不少參 加者反映字體分享很有趣，期望將來可以有更多不同 類型的分享會。
Hosting events during the pandemic needs more preparation work than usual, but we treasure every encounter and strive to make every effort
疫情下，每個活動的準備工作都比以往繁複，每次與
count. We will continue to explore the realm of
大家的見面都難能可貴。我們會克服困難，繼續探索
possibilities for online events and work on the
線上活動的可能性，並嘗試以更多元化的方式帶大家
diversity in presentations to bring out different
認識社區的不同面貌。
sides of the community.
光 影 ． 龍 城 社區攝影比賽
2022 !_ ． .
徵件日期
06.06 ł - 14 6<
05.08
2022
> . !_ 5 « . æ > z z h6k
攝影主題：《老店．空間》
獎項及獎品： 設有冠、亞、季軍各一名，優異獎五名及「Facebook人氣
比賽目的：
大獎」一名，可贏取豐富的獎品！詳情可參閱步行徑網頁及網
透過攝影比賽，鼓勵公眾關心及探索
上報名表。
社區，留意社區的大小變化，並以影 像及文字細訴九龍城區的故事，紀錄
參加辦法：
社區的獨特面貌。
填妥網上參加表格 (https://bit.ly/3tVyE39)，並以連結形式遞交作品，恕不 接受硬照或菲林片。成功報名參賽後，將會收到電子郵件以確認收妥作品。
比賽日期： 2022年6月6日至8月5日
公佈結果及領獎方法： 比賽結果將於2022年10月21日或之前於本機構網頁及Facebook專頁公佈。
截止遞交作品日期：
本機構將以電郵或電話通知得獎者。得獎者將獲安排出席頒獎禮領獎。
2022年8月5日
(日期及地點待定）
(截止時間為香港時間23：59：59)
攝影地點：九龍城、土瓜灣、紅磡 (照片須於上述三個地方拍攝並標明 拍攝地方)
參賽資格：18歲或以上香港居民
查詢： 電話：+852 3183 0928
kowlooncitywalkingtrail.hk
電郵：kctwt@skhwc.org.hk
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更多活動詳情、作品要求、參賽條款及細則，可瀏覽步行徑網頁及網上報名表格。 For English version, please refer to our website.
更多資訊：
Kowloon
CityWalkingTrail
立即報名！
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字遊紅磡：字體招牌分享會
紅磡屬九龍早期發展的地區，區內尚存不少特色招 牌，其中殯儀行業的招牌更是不容錯過。是次將與 大家一同看看區內的特色招牌，探究招牌的字體、 設計及美學。
日期︰第一場｜5月18日（三） 第二場｜5月21日（六） 時間：14:00-15:00 形式：Zoom視像會議 講者：李健明先生@香港招牌研究會 查詢：湯小姐
Session B｜21 May 2022 (Sat)
Date: Session A｜18 May 2022 (Wed)
Hung Hom was one of the earliest developed regions in Kowloon. There are several signature signboards left inside the community especially from the funeral industry. Let us explore the featured signboards such as the fonts, the designs and the aesthetics one by one in the coming activity.
Ceramics Modelling Experience Workshop*
Hung Hom’ s Signboards Sharing Seminar
日期及時間： 第一班 第1節 ｜6月11日（六）10:30-13:00 第2節｜6月12日（日）14:00-16:00
陶學威龍：免燒陶藝體驗工作坊*
地點：躍變．龍城體驗館 查詢：陳小姐 *參加者必須出席兩節活動。
Format: Zoom Meeting
Research Society
Speaker: Mr. Lee Kin Ming@Hong Kong Signage
Enquiry: Miss Tong
Class C Session 1 ｜7 July 2022 (Thu) 15:00-17:00 Session 2｜9 July 2022 (Sat) 15:30-17:00
Location: Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre
Enquiry: Miss Chan
*Participants are required to attend two sessions of activity. A is family worshop.
#Class
Ground Floor, Wan Tung Building, No. 115 Tam Kung Road, Kowloon
Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre: Shop No.5,
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Office：1/F, Lower Block, Chun Seen Mei Chuen, Ma Tau Chung, Kowloon
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All activities are free to join! For more details, please stay tuned to our Facebook page.
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#第一班為親子工作坊。
Time: 14:00-15:00
第二班 第1節 ｜6月25日（六）10:30-13:00 第2節｜6月26日（日）14:00-16:00
This workshop allows participants to make ceramic accessories that are related to Kowloon City. The workshop will be divided into two sessions. The 1st session will introduce basic knowledge of ceramics, techniques and creation. The 2nd session will be ceramics colouring.
第三班 第1節 ｜7月2日（六）10:30-13:00 第2節｜7月3日（日）14:00-16:00
是次工作坊將與大家一同享受陶藝製作過程，以九 龍城為主題創作陶藝飾品。活動分兩節，第一節 教授陶藝的基礎知識、技法及創作，第二節完成 上色。
對象：16歲或以上，喜歡探索社區及攝影 地點：躍變．龍城體驗館及九龍城區 查詢：陳小姐
Programme Recommendation
光影．重溫——啟德歲月* 啟德機場曾經是香港的傳奇，有飛機在頭頂掠過 的震撼畫面，有媲美教科書級別的13/31傳奇跑 道，有見證不少悲歡離合的大堂……種種畫面已 成為那些年的集體回憶。為此，步行徑策劃一系 列體驗活動，讓大眾以「光影」重遊舊地，深入 認識社區歷史。 第1節：菲林針孔相機DIY 認識針孔相機的製作原理，動手製作針孔相機。 第2節：攝影 X 導賞 以自製的菲林針孔相機，重遊九龍城，邊行邊 拍，感受、欣賞及留住社區風光。 *參加者必須出席兩節活動。
Date and Time: Class A# Session 1 ｜9 Jun 2022 (Thu) 15:00-17:00 Session 2｜11 Jun 2022 (Sat) 15:30-17:00
Target: Age 16 or above
Class B
Session 2｜12 Jun 2022 (Sun) 14:00-16:00
Date and Time: Class A
Enquiry: Miss Chan
City District
Information Centre and Kowloon
Location: Kowloon City in Transformation
Session 1 ｜11 Jun 2022 (Sat) 10:30-13:00
Reviewing Snapshots of Kai Tak*
日期及時間： 第一班# 第1節 ｜6月9日（四）15:00-17:00 第2節｜6月11日（六）15:30-17:00
Class B Session 1 ｜17 Jun 2022 (Fri) 15:00-17:00 Session 2｜19 Jun 2022 (Sun) 15:30-17:00
Kai Tak Airport was one of the legendary places in Hong Kong. The moments in which the planes flew over our heads closely, the hectic Runway 13/31 and the departure and arrival hall where we witnessed countless come and go had become our collective memories. In view of that, Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail has been planning a series of hands-on activities for the public to relive Kai Tak in the past so as to familiarise with the community history.
Session 1 ｜25 Jun 2022 (Sat) 10:30-13:00 Session 2｜26 Jun 2022 (Sun) 14:00-16:00 Class C Session 1 ｜2 Jul 2022 (Sat) 10:30-13:00 Session 2｜3 Jul 2022 (Sun) 14:00-16:00
第三班 第1節 ｜7月7日（四）15:00-17:00 第2節｜7月9日（六）15:30-17:00
第二班 第1節 ｜6月17日（五）15:00-17:00 第2節｜6月19日（日）15:30-17:00
Session 1: Film Pinhole Camera DIY Workshop Understand the principle of making a film pinhole camera and try to make it. Session 2: Photography X Guided Tour By using the hand-made film pinhole camera, we are going to feel, appreciate and take some snapshots of the community while hanging around Kowloon City.
*Participants are required to attend two sessions of activity.
Kowloon.City.Walking.Trail KowloonCityWalkingTrail KHeEmailRJkctwt@skhwc.org.hk KDTelRJ3830921