Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail
社區 / 九龍城區古早嚐味路線
The "Ancient Tastes" in Kowloon City District 人物 / 屹立70年的匠人精神
70 years of craftsmanship
焦點 / 童你玩轉
土瓜灣歷史文化遊蹤
Family City Hunt in To Kwa Wan
我在多年前去過台南，看見當地人把老屋改建成咖啡室，不禁感嘆他們對舊建築的尊重。除了建築，當地人的文 化傳承亦做得很好，好像那裏的古早美食通通有半世歷史，一代傳一代，這些都很值得我們學習。
近年，九龍城正進行市區更新，舊建築被拆下，擁有歷史痕跡的東西逐漸消失，眼見這區屹立半世的美食店相繼 結業，例如豪華餅店、公和荳品廠等，讓我們藉着今期季刊將九龍城區獨有的古早美食記錄下來，並製作出一條 嚐味路線推介給大家。
When I was travelling to Tainan, I saw local people transforming their old houses into cafes. This is how they respect the old buildings in Taiwan. Besides, they have been doing a great job in cultural heritage as well that is worth learning. Take traditional food as an example. Local people have been passing them down from generation to generation over a half century.
Kowloon City has been experiencing urban renewal in recent years. Old historic buildings are being demolished. Several renowned gourmet shops which have stood in Kowloon City over 50 years such as Hoover Cake Shop and Kung Wo Beancurd Factory has been closed down. In view of that, we would like to record the food that can be only found in Kowloon City and suggest a gourmet route to all of you in this issue.
季刊 第二十二期
Newsletter Issue.22
01-03.2024
編輯：北向惠理
Edited by Kitamukai Eri 設計排版：林紫茵
Designed by Traci Lam 編審：陳詠琳、鄭詠恩
Reviewed by Gwyneth Chan, Vivian Cheng 督印人：何穎儀
Supervised by Joyce Ho
印量：8,000 8,000 copies in print 出版日期：2024年3月
First edition Mar 2024
九龍城主題步行徑辦公室： 九龍馬頭涌真善美村低座一樓
Office: 1/F, Lower Block, Chun Seen Mei Chuen, Ma Tau Chung, Kowloon
躍變．龍城體驗館： 九龍譚公道115號運通大廈地下5號舖
Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre：
Shop No.5, Ground Floor, Wan Tung Building, No. 115 Tam Kung Road, Kowloon
電話 Tel：+852 3183 0928
電郵 Email：kctwt@skhwc.org.hk
傳真 Fax：+852 3104 9911
網址 Web：kowlooncitywalkingtrail.hk
步蹤電子版 Newsletter e-version： issuu.com/kowloon.city.walking.trail
Kowloon.City.Walking.Trail
Kowloon City Walking Trail
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步行徑手機應用程式 Mobile App
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躍變．龍城——九龍城主題步行徑
Assembling the KC Transformers, dedicated to serving the community
過去幾年因疫情關係很多「躍龍步隊」
相關活動無奈暫停，今年我們將重新出 發，在2月3日舉辦首場義工月會，維繫 現有「躍龍步隊」及招募新義工，務求 大家互相交流，緊貼基層大眾需要，籌 備更多合適活動給市民。如有興趣加入 躍龍步隊，可於網頁登記加入，期待您 加入我們!
Due to the pandemic in past few years, many volunteer activities were suspended. This year, we will set off again. We organised our first volunteer monthly meeting on 3rd February. The goal is to maintain the existing “KC Transformers” and recruit new volunteers, fostering mutual communication, staying closely connected to the community needs, and organising more suitable activities for residents. If you are interest in joining “KC Transformers”, you can register on our website. We look forward to welcoming you aboard!
地膽導賞組 Guided Tour Docent Team
古早味原本是台灣居民用來形容古舊的味道，時至今日可 以泛指「充滿懷舊味道的美食」，而在歷史悠久的九龍城 區就有它獨有的「古早味」，但在市區重建之下，這些古 早美食或會逐漸消失，好像豪華餅店、公和荳品廠已相繼 結業。今期步行徑特意推介一系列我們心目中九龍城區 獨有的古早味，並製作出一條古早嚐味路線給大家，趁着 它們還未消失前，不妨前來嚐嚐吧！
used
The term “Ancient Taste” come from Taiwan. It is now commonly to describe traditional flavour of food. In Kowloon City District, it does have its unique “ancient tastes”. However, as city development proceeds, the old gourmet shops may gradually disappear, like Hoover Cake Shop and Kung Wo Beancurd Factory which have been closed down. In view of that, we would like to record those “ancient tastes” that can be only found in Kowloon City District and suggest a gourmet route to all of you in this issue.
3
已有70多年歷史，原本在龍崗道，其後遷 至現址。主打皮薄餡多、肉汁飽滿的牛肉 餅，由於在九龍城扎根多年，它的牛肉餅已 經成為九龍城名物。
Opened for over 70 years. It was originally in Lung Kong Road but relocated to Tak Ku Ling Road at present. The thin-wrapped and juicy pan fried beef bun is not only the signature dish of the restaurant but also one of the specialties in Kowloon City.
在九龍城扎根55年，店內售賣的潮式糖 餅、甜點種類繁多。店舖第二代負責人楊 子儀不斷推出創新款式，在傳統上加添創 意，例如冰爽綠豆糕，用上傳統潮州綠豆 蓉，放進雪櫃冷凍後，吃時更有入口即溶的 效果。
Rooted in Kowloon City for 55 years, offering a diverse range of Teochew pastries and desserts. The second generation owner, Mr. Rocky Yeung is keen on innovating new flavours based on traditional taste. Take ice mung bean cake as an example. It is filled with traditional Chaozhou mung bean paste. After freezing, the cake will melt in your mouth when you eat it.
起初只賣雜貨，後改賣泰菜麵食，深受街坊 歡迎，連名導谷德昭都是席上客。招牌船河 正宗，湯底濃郁但不會死鹹，可自選七款粉麵 配搭，當中更有坊間少見的卷麵。
I t used to be a grocery store but then changed to a Thai food restaurant. It is famous among local people, even Vincent Kok Tak Chiu, a Hong Kong renowned movie director, paid a visit there before. The authentic boat noodles is their signature dish. The broth is rich in fl avour but not salty and you can have seven choices of noodles to choose from including the rolled noodles.
衙前圍道
街知巷聞的潮式糖水店，至今已有69 年歷史。店內售賣的糖水種類繁多， 當中以蓮子最為出名。蓮子經過老闆 精挑細選，以人手洗淨去皮，再用冰糖 熬煮6至7小時，入口鬆化。
A renowned traditional Teochew-style dessert shop with 69 years of history. Among their offerings, the lotus seeds is the most famous one. The owner pays meticulous attention to the lotus seed processing, handwashing and peeling them daily, then simmering them with rock sugar for 6 to 7 hours, resulting in a tender and velvety texture.
城 南 道 2 3 7 8
太子道東 世運道 /07 1
碩果僅存豆腐廠，一直堅持用石磨人 手磨製黃豆，豆花亦經柴火明爐燒 香，令豆味陣更香濃且帶微微焦香。
One of the few still left beancurd factory. They insist on processing the soy in the stone mill manually. Soybean pudding will be heated up in the firewood stove to accentuate the soy flavour and get a slight burnt taste.
香 荳 腐 食 品
5
九龍城街市裏的經典老派茶檔，曾被著名食家蔡瀾贈言 「勝過鮑參肚翅」。除了傳統茶記美食，第二代老闆更 推出多款創新美食，例如沙嗲牛西多，更一度成為新一 代九龍城代表美食。
An long established tea cafe in Kowloon City market. Mr. Chua Lam, a gourmet, once said “It is better than abalone, sea cucumber, shark's fin, fish maw”. Besides the traditional dishes, the second generation owner even introduces several innovative dishes such as french toast with satay beef which has become one of the representative dishes in Kowloon City for a moment.
手打魚蛋批發老店，所賣的魚蛋採用 100%魚肉製成，絕不加麵粉，質感彈牙 且食落特別有魚味。店舖門口更設有檔 口，售賣秘製咖喱魚蛋，發哥（周潤發） 亦經常光顧這家的魚蛋。
A hand-made fish ball wholesale company. The fish balls are 100% made of fish flesh. Texture is al dente. They are also selling curry fish balls at the shop front. Mr. Chow Yun Fat visits this shop very often too.
有50多年歷史，由木頭車仔檔起家，後 來才正式入舖，多年來堅持由人手明 火煎製，製出來的蛋卷特别鬆脆，口碑 特好，區內無人不曉。
Wun Kee started its business in a wooden cart stall 50 years ago. Today, it has transitioned from the streets to a storefront. They make egg rolls over an open flame consistently over years, resulting in a uniquely crispy texture. Local people love it very much.
dough stick but everyone in Kowloon City knows its name. Standing in Kowloon City for almost 70 years, even movie superstar, Mr. Chow Yun Fat is a fan of it. What is the secret behind the recipes? Mr. Wong Kam Wai, the owner of Tim Choi Kee, will reveal his secret with us.
這碗招牌魚片牛肉粥是發哥最 愛，粥底綿密有口感，魚片鮮 甜。
一碗好粥要由生米直煮，熬兩、三小時，煮出來 的粥才綿密，放久亦不會粥水分隔。「煮粥要掌 控火候，時而猛火，時而細火，不時攪拌，才不 會煮焦。坊間有很多製作速成，例如預先把米 浸軟，打米漿，但我們幾十年來都是用傳統做 法。」偉哥說。
耗時耗神的傳統製法，令添財記在街坊心目中烙 下一席位，但畢竟飲食業始終很耗體力，在2014 年偉哥的家人決定退休，將經營了超過半世的店 舖結業，街坊紛紛感到可惜。結業後，家人不斷 在旅遊期間遇到熟客，他們也問何時重開。為了 答謝熟客的支持，偉哥決定在同區重開。
叉燒腸亦很滑溜。
Rice roll with barbecued pork is also smooth.
除了粥，油炸鬼也非常出色，採訪當 日才2點已售罄。
Besides congee, the fried dough sticks are also brilliant. Already sold out at 2pm.
發哥（周潤發）是店舖常客，想捕獲不妨來這裏。
(相片由受訪者提供）
Fat Gor comes here a lot. If you want to meet him, come here and take a shot.
It takes two to three hours to cook a smooth congee. “Control of the heat and frequent stirring is the key. In order to save time, there are lots of shops that will macerate the rice at the very beginning to make the congee base. However, we have kept the traditional recipe over the years.” Wai Gor said.
Following steps from the traditional recipe to cook a congee is time-consuming. Because of that, Tim
店舖掛上不少香港舊照，當然少不了九龍城。 There are numbers of old photos of Hong Kong hanging inside the shop, not to mention Kowloon City.
Choi Kee leaves a good impression among local residents in Kowloon City. In 2014, Wai Gor's family had decided to retire because of his age and strength to keep running a congee shop. While they were travelling after retirement, they met a lot of loyal customers who felt bad for the closing down. Wai Gor soon re-opened the shop in the same district again so as to show his gratitude to all of his fans.
「如果遇到有心後生仔，
「如果遇到有心後生仔，將會無私傳授。」
“I will teach him what I’ve got if someone is passionate.
ITʼS
經過一年來奔波找舖位，終於找到合 適的舖位，但裝修一拖再拖，令開張日
期只能順延。偉哥回想，「煤氣爐也是 通宵去安裝，第二清早便要開檔，人手 亦不足夠，連哥哥都形容能夠開張是 奇蹟。」他說。意想不到開張才幾天， 熟客們紛紛前來光顧，更不約而同眼 紅紅向偉哥說：「你們重開就好了，我 們好似無主孤魂般四出尋找當年那味 道。」重開後最難忘發哥第一次重來，
大讚店舖整齊衛生，更冠以「偉爵爺」 這個稱號給偉哥。
能夠有這麼多熟客，在九龍城屹立不 倒，偉哥深明這一切都來自客人，為了 回饋他們的支持，偉哥事事親力親為， 力求進步，即使手指骨節發炎仍忍痛 繼續工作，更教員工換位思考，從客人 出發。
PASSING IT DOWN
Wai Gor spent a year looking for an appropriate location for reopening. The renovation work afterwards was also an obstacle which delayed the date of opening as well. “My brother considered the re-opening was a miracle because the gas cooker was just installed the night right before the re-opening day while we were having manpower shortage too. But we got to start business in the next morning.” Wai Gor recalled. Just a few days after re-opening, the regular customers returned immediately and felt touched to have the taste back. He also remembered that day Fat Gor returned. He complimented the brand new renovations and called Wai Gor “Mr. Sir Wai”.
Wai Gor believed his shop could not stand in Kowloon City for years without customers’ support. In order to express his gratitude, he devoted himself all to his shop and made improvements day by day although he suffered from finger irritations.
接下來，偉哥還要面對後繼無人的問題。
「子女才十多歲，應該不打算繼承衣缽， 希望可以遇到有心的年青人，接手『添財 記香港傳統美食有限公司』，像日本的匠 人精神，一間小店用心製作，一代一代傳 承下去。」
Next, Wai Gor is worried about the problem of succession. “My son and daughter are just too young and I feel like they are not interested in running a shop. I hope there is someone who is passionate to learn, take over the business and pass the craftsmanship down generation to generation.” Wai Gor said.
圖：Bill Su、步行徑 文：羊咩（楊頌雯）
隨着時代的發展，社區中不少老字號食肆，也先後跟 街坊告別。雖然此區不愁找不到美食，但要餐廳食物 有水準，滿足嘴巴與味蕾的同時，又要有一些特色與 懷舊風情的地方，相信素有「土瓜灣西式平民扒房」 之稱的哥登堡餐廳，絕對是不二之選。
這老牌西餐廳位處馬頭圍道逾40年，捧場客大不乏 人，不少人來光顧，除了吃食物，也吃這兒的環境與 古老氛圍。外面的霓虹招牌夠吸引，內裏雖然地方不 大，但西式的拱門、昏暗的燈光、中間擺放桌子，而兩 旁則有啡色皮製的「卡位」，充滿着舊情懷。不管是下 午茶餐、招牌鐵板餐或晚市套餐，除了美味和「抵食」 （不用收加一服務費），共通點就是份量大。
Old gourmet shops are closing down as city development proceeds. If you are looking for a restaurant that provides quality food and nostalgic vibes in this district, “To Kwa Wan grassroot steakhouse” Goteborg Restaurant could definitely be your first choice.
This restaurant has been standing in the community for over 40 years. Fans of the restaurant not only love the quality of the food, but also the nostalgic setting. From the outside, you can notice the eye-catching neon light signboard. Inside the restaurant, you will then find western arch, dimming lights, tables at the hallway and leather booth seating alongside the wall. Although it serves high quality and huge portions of food, there is no service charge.
可惜這餐廳很快也要跟大家說再見，消息一出，慕名 前來的人甚多，餐廳門前更排了一條等待進場的人 龍，大家都趁餐廳結業前，一嚐古早的美味與感受舊 式的裝潢、陳設和情調吧！
Unfortunately, this restaurant is going to say goodbye to everyone. As the news comes out, people start queueing outside the restaurant every day in order to reminisce about the flavour and vibes of old times once again before it closes down.
Photo: Bill Su、Walking Trail Text: Sheep (Young Chung Man Donna)
主菜蒜蓉豬扒醬料惹味，豬扒也甚有厚度。
餐廳將在3月31日光榮結業，自公布後便晚晚座無虛 席，趁它結業前來感受點舊情懷吧！
The restaurant will be closed on 31st March. Since after the announcement, the restaurant has been full every night. Seize the last chance to relish some nostalgic moments before it closes!
每時每地都有同的故事發生，你在社區裡有哪些經歷 與回憶？步行徑現正收集九龍城區的故事，不論是關 於舊區變遷、街坊鄰里，還是生活小事，都歡迎投稿 與我們分享。
Different stories happen all the time everywhere. What are your experience and memories in the community? We are now collecting stories of the Kowloon City District, whether it is about the changes in the old district, the neighbourhood, or the little things of life, you are welcome to contribute and share with us.
九龍城主題步行徑早前參加由香港建築師學會雙 年展基金會主辦的「美美與共 和而不同——連接 大都會」建築巡迴展，先後在2023年7月及10月到 馬來西亞吉隆坡及南京，將九龍城獨特的建築特色 和文化帶到國際舞台。而巡迴展的終點站來到香 港，並以回應方式，於2024年2月23日至3月11日在 啟德AIRSIDE舉行。
場內展出以「『城』市中的人情永留」為主題的多層 次光雕模型，配合六個故事主題，勾畫九龍城獨有 的建築輪廓，讓參觀者反思新舊不是對立的關係， 重建和保育可以並行。
We recently participated in the "Harmony in Diversity –Connecting the Metropolis by In-Betweens" Architecture Exhibition organised by the Hong Kong Institute of Architects Biennale Foundation. We showcased Kowloon City's unique architectural features and culture heritage on the international stage in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and Nanjing, China in July and October 2023. The roving exhibition concluded in Hong Kong at Kai Tak AIRSIDE from 23 rd February to 11 th March, 2024 featuring a multi-layered LED engraving model with the theme "In Search of Reminiscence in the City," presenting Kowloon City's distinct architectural profile and emphasizing the coexistence of redevelopment and conservation.
步行徑於2023年6月12日至9月15日舉辦了第四屆 「光影．龍城—區攝影比賽」，該比賽收到超過180
份參賽作品，初步遴選出20份入圍作品，再經評審 及網上投票後，選出9個獎項的得獎者，所有得獎 及入圍作品在2023年12月17日至2024年2月17日於 「躍變．龍城體驗館」作公開展出，藉此鼓勵公眾 關心及探索社區。
We organised the 4th “Dragon City of Light and Shadow” Community Photography Competition from 12th June to 15th September, 2023. With over 180 entries, 20 were shortlisted after a preliminary screening. after a preliminary screening to proceed to final judging and online vote. 9 awards were presented to winning entries at last. Those entries were showcased in the Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre from 17th December, 2023 to 17th February, 2024, aiming to encourage public interest and exploration of the community.
土瓜灣正進行重建，加上自屯馬線通車後，區內發展加快，深信在 不久的將來會有一翻新面貌。然而，區內仍有不少獨特建築、店 舖、時代的遺跡，都很值得我們在拆卸前來欣賞。
下期季刊我們一起尋找這區值得散策的地方，歡迎街坊與我們分享 土瓜灣那些不為人知的地點及它的小故事。
To Kwa Wan is undergoing redevelopment, and with the opening of the Tuen Ma Line, the development in this area has accelerated. It is believed that in the near future, there will be a new outlook. However, the area still retains many unique buildings, shops and historical remnants, all worth appreciating before they are dismantled.
In the next issue, let's explore the interesting places in this area worth strolling through. Please feel free to share the hidden spots in To Kwa Wan and their stories.
Submit Now！
投稿一經採用， 將獲薄酬。
Once your article is accepted, a gift voucher will be given.
報名及查詢
6/4/2024
12:30 — 17:00
九龍城主題步行徑 Kowloon City Walking Trail kowlooncitywalkingtrail.hk
電話 Tel：3183 0928
電郵 Email：kctwt@skhwc.org.hk
步行徑過去曾與不同機構合辦城市定向活動，今年首次主辦一個 以「親子歷史文化遊蹤」為主題的城市定向挑戰活動，當中的遊 戲及任務涵蓋土瓜灣區內具歷史意義及紀念價值的地標，希望讓 大眾以有趣方式去認識地區歷史及文化。參加者在活動期間能親 身用雙腳步行探索，了解這個社區。活動為家庭組別，歡迎一家 大細組隊參加！
組別： 親子組 對象： 5至12歲小童及其家人 人數： 2-4人一組 (需最少一位18歲以上家長陪同) 名額： 15組 費用： 全免
截止日期： 2024年3月25日
