在九龍城區蹓躂，常常有意料之外的發現，譬如這裏的屋邨真的很有特色。
相比起九龍與新界許多地區，九龍城區的公共屋邨不算多，例如有超過半世紀歷史的馬頭圍邨與真善美村，有 九龍模範屋邨之稱的愛民邨，有依山而建的樂民新村，還有由徙置區改建而成的何文田邨與紅磡邨等，由於地 勢與發展不一，每個屋邨背後都有不同的設計與故事。
今期季刊以屋邨為切入點，帶大家回顧九龍城區的屋邨變遷，並邀請「遊走香港屋邨誌」版主Aiko分享遊走屋 邨的樂趣，細說她的觀察與感受。
We always find something unexpected when we stroll along Kowloon City District. Let’s consider its housing estates, for example.
Sure, there are many districts in Kowloon and the New Territories that have even more public housing estates, but what Kowloon City District does have is rather special. There are Ma Tau Wai Estate and Chun Seen Mei Chuen, both of which are over half-century old. There is Oi Man Estate, the so-called model housing of Kowloon. There is Lok Man Sun Chuen, an estate built along the hill. There are also Ho Man Tin Estate and Hung Hom Estate, formerly resettlement areas. Given differences in terrain and development, each housing estate comes with its own design and story.
In this newsletter, we’ll take a look at Kowloon City District’s housing estates throughout the years. Aiko, who runs the Facebook page ‘Spontaneously Wandering Around Hong Kong’, also shares with us her observations and joy of exploring housing estates.
季刊 第十九期
Newsletter Issue.19
04-06.2023
Edited by Christy Ng
設計排版：黃雪瑩
Designed by SY Wong
編審：陳詠琳、鄭詠恩
Reviewed by Gwyneth Chan, Vivian Cheng
督印人：何穎儀
Supervised by Joyce Ho
印量：8,000
8,000 copies in print
出版日期：2023年6月
First edition Jun 2023
九龍城主題步行徑辦公室：
九龍馬頭涌真善美村低座一樓
Office: 1/F, Lower Block, Chun Seen Mei Chuen, Ma Tau Chung, Kowloon
躍變．龍城體驗館：
九龍譚公道115號運通大廈地下5號舖
Kowloon City in Transformation
Information Centre：
Shop No.5, Ground Floor, Wan Tung Building, No. 115 Tam Kung Road, Kowloon
電話 Tel：+852 3183 0928
電郵 Email：kctwt@skhwc.org.hk
傳真 Fax：+852 3104 9911
網址 Web：kowlooncitywalkingtrail.hk
步蹤電子版 Newsletter e-version： issuu.com/kowloon.city.walking.trail
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步行徑手機應用程式 Mobile App
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躍變．龍城——九龍城主題步行徑
Kowloon City Walking Trail
Kowloon.City.Walking.Trail 九龍城主題步行徑
香港聖公會 聖三一座堂 S.K.H. Holy Trinity Cathedral
九龍城主題步行徑總長約6.5公里，分為五個特色路 段，是全港最長的主題步行徑。路段上的公共設施先 後進行改善及美化，包括更新花盆及欄杆、加設地面 及地磚裝飾、燈柱裝飾，及社區資訊指示牌等。
真善美村 Chun Seen Mei Chuen
牛棚藝術村 Cattle
Shim Luen St 燕安街 Yin On St 駿發街 Tsun Fat St 鶴齡街 Hok Ling St 十三街 13 Streets
煤氣廠 Towngas Gasholder
為加強社區連繫性及公眾互動，團隊在不同路段設置 社區智慧地圖及AR指示牌，前者透過設計工作坊及 全港中小學設計比賽，發掘不同主題的社區地圖；後 者善用AR科技，設計了「當年今日」、「迴．眸寨 城聲音故事」、「飛機蹤影」等互動體驗，歡迎大家 利用步行徑手機應用程式盡情探索。團隊會定時檢視 硬件的狀態及進行維修保養，以確保公眾可充分享受 路段上的設施。因應硬件落成，團隊亦將策劃不同類 型的文化活動，以推動更多人認識及遊覽九龍城。
Infill Paving Block
燈柱裝飾 Sign Plate 欄杆 Railing
Consisting of 5 designated routes, the Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail has a total length of 6.5 kilometers, which is the longest of its kind in Hong Kong. The public facilities on trail have undergone upgrading, which includes the renewal of planters and railings, installation of new infill floor and paving blocks, new light pole sign plates and information panels.
燈柱裝飾 Sign Plate
資訊指示牌 Information Panel
地面裝飾 Infill Floor Block
To enhance community connectivity and public interaction, community wisdom maps and AR information panels are installed along the trail. The former involves design workshops and design competitions for primary and secondary schools across Hong Kong to create community maps with different themes. The latter utilizes AR technology to create interactive experiences such as “Today in History”, “Sound Stories: Immersion in Old Kowloon Walled City” and “Capturing the Airplanes”. You are welcome to explore these features by using our mobile app. Our team will keep on checking and maintaining the hardwares, as well as organising various cultural activities to ensure that everyone can fully enjoy the hardware facilities.
Many people have a love-hate relationship with housing-estate life.
住在屋邨的日子，幾個人擠在一個小單位， 空間捉襟見肘，但家家戶戶開着大門通風， 小朋友在走廊、平台空地玩樂，許多年後回 想，總叫人懷念。
舊式公屋在設計上有別出心裁之處，而新型 公屋則較為統一。九龍城區新舊兼容，一起 來看看這裏的屋邨設計及這些年的變化。
馬頭圍邨是 九龍城區歷史最悠久的屋邨，建 於1962年，原址本為二皇殿村。屋邨由五座 以花卉名字命名的樓宇組成，其中洋葵、水 仙、玫瑰、夜合一體相連，地下是地舖及社 區中心，當中更有不少老字號。這也是房委 會首個自行設計的屋邨，環境與建築兼容， 成為後來公共屋邨的設計藍本。
Living with many people in a small, cramped unit wasn’t easy. But it’s hard not to miss those days when every family left their door open and children played in corridors and open spaces. There’s much ingenuity and thoughtfulness in the design of each old-style public estate, whereas the newer ones seem more standardised. Kowloon City District has a mix of both. Let’s take a look at the changes throughout the years.
步行徑辦公室的所在地。前身為馬頭涌平房 區，1965年改建為真善美村，共有「真」、 「善」、「美」三座，尤以至真樓呈典線型 的建築形態最具特色。而最叫人難忘的必 定是位於中間位置，曾是幼稚園的兩層高大 樓，洋溢着小朋友的嬉戲聲。村中有棵高大 的鳳凰木，每年5月開花，與橙色的屋邨外牆 相映成趣。
屋邨生活， 讓人又愛又恨。
井字型設計的愛民邨，出自「公屋之父」廖本 懷之手，有九龍模範邨的稱號。因佔地極廣， 邨內的休憩空間多，有餐廳、商場、運動場、 幼稚園等配套，1975年英女皇訪港期間也有 拜訪過。如今的愛民邨保留買少見少的「冬 菇亭」，電影《狂舞派》、《淪落人》也曾於 邨內取景。
翻新後的樂民新村，繽紛的外牆顏色帶有彩 虹邨的影子，但依山而建的地勢，又讓它多 了幾分寧靜。屋邨最大的「特色」是樓梯甚 多，沿靠背壟道一路走過A至G座，只見公公 婆婆在斜路上健步如飛， F座背後更有「隱藏 版」天梯，通往靠背壟道遊樂場及馬頭圍配 水庫，堪稱是居民的後花園。
毗鄰鬧市的家維邨，予人嘈吵的感覺，尤其 對着佛光街的一邊，人多車多，但進入邨 中，卻是別有洞天。從高空所見，被九座樓 宇包圍着的內園，由一個個圓圈組成，水 池、公園、休憩處等都是圓形，公共空間頗 多，猶如鬧市中的小綠洲。
何文田邨曾經歷數次轉化，早年是村落及平 房區，1950年代改建為徙置大廈，1970年代 再改建為廉租屋邨，並在啟德機場搬走後重 建為今天的何文田邨。採用和諧式設計的何 文田邨算不上極具特色，但從高空遠眺，可 見最後期興建的雅文樓與欣文樓特別低矮， 與其他幾座高樓形成有趣的層次感。
This Hung Hom Estate is not that Hung Hom Estate
Subtle historical elements
對於老街坊來說，紅磡邨的名字或許會讓他 們混淆。1990年前的紅磡邨，實際是今天的 家維邨，而於1999年後落成的紅磡邨，前身 則是大環山徙置區，地勢較高。紅磡邨在規
劃上原先只有紅暉樓與紅昇樓兩座，政府後 來叫停旁邊的居屋工程，改建為三座公屋， 前後相隔11年，才有了現在紅磡邨的模樣。
座落於啟德地皮上的啟晴邨與德朗邨，是九 龍城區最新的屋邨，僅十年樓齡。雖說都是 和諧式設計，但屋邨融入不少歷史元素，例 如啟德跑道、格仔山、登機閘等，讓人聯想 起昔日的啟德機場。邨內留有不少公共空 間，康體設施的裝潢亦頗有特色，可見設計 團隊的心思。
*九龍城區還有一個常樂邨，由於只有一幢， 周邊設施不多，在此不贅。
圖片來源：政府新聞處、香港文化博物館、政府檔 案處歷史檔案館、香港房屋協會、遊走香港屋邨誌
公共屋邨是香港重要的住屋類型，近三分之一 香港居民都居於公屋，大家都有着相似的「公 屋經驗」，不少人更以公屋仔女自居，對屋邨
生活充滿感情。Aiko也是其中之一，在公屋長
大，有感於社區不斷變遷，去年開設Facebook 專頁「遊走香港屋邨誌」，親身走訪全港258個 屋邨，以照片及文字書寫屋邨面貌，為社區留 下重要的紀錄。
專頁開設僅一年，Aiko已走訪過半屋邨，發表
超過100篇文章，追蹤人數過萬，網友常常留言 分享各個屋邨的趣事及細節，有第一身的居住 經歷，也有不少人慨嘆新不如舊。屋邨文章意
外引起共鳴，Aiko始料不及，卻是一個契機讓 自己繼續寫下去。她解釋專頁一開始是以打卡 形式輕鬆遊走香港不同的地方，直至某天她路
過上水彩園邨，發現邨內氛圍與往日不同，少 了水貨客，多了街坊與小朋友，她有感而發， 決定將自己的感受寫出來，沒想到反應出奇地 好。「這就是我遊走屋邨的原因，想趁還看到 的時候，記錄今天的屋邨，因為很難說三五年 甚或一年後會變成甚麼樣。」
Public housing estates are an important type of housing in Hong Kong, as one-third of Hong Kong residents live in public housing. Many have similar experiences and are proud and fond of public-housing life. Aiko is one such person. Having grown up in a public housing estate and feeling the constant change in the community, Aiko set up a Facebook page last year named ‘Spontaneously Wandering Around Hong Kong’. She aims at visiting all the 258 estates throughout Hong Kong and document each through photos and words.
A year after the page was opened, Aiko has already visited half of the estates, published more than 100 articles, garnered more than 10,000 followers and netizens often leave messages to share interesting facts and details of each estate. Aiko had not expected her articles to resonate so much with others, and it prompted her to carry on writing. She explained that the page was originally launched to share different places in Hong Kong in the form of a check-in, until one day she passed by Watercolor Garden Estate and found that the atmosphere in the estate was different from the past, there were fewer parallel traders, more neighbours and children, she decided to express her feelings in writing, but she did not expect the response to be surprisingly good. 'That's why I travel around the estates, and I want to record today's estates while they are still there, because it's hard to say what will happen in three or five years or even a year.'
廣源邨
Kwong
香港是個不斷變化的城市，但在一些屋邨中， 時間彷彿沒有留下太多痕跡，反而淬煉成一 種懷舊之美，時至今日依然可以從建築物外 觀與公共空間，感受到建築師的心思，譬如勵 德邨、樂華邨、彩虹邨、廣源邨等，都別具特 色。走遍港九新界，Aiko也有私心之選，尤 其喜歡採紅磚設計的廣源邨及被喻為「全港最 美屋邨」的祖堯邨。「廣源邨好靚，邨中有個 鐘樓，商場由一間間紅磚小屋組成，還有一個 已乾涸的水池，屋邨的設計概念很完整。」祖 堯邨則以設計多元及公共空間寬敞見稱，依山 而見的八座樓宇高低錯落有致，予人舒適的感
覺。但有時漂亮卻未必實用，大圍顯徑邨帶有 歐陸感，屋邨商場更有一條環迴斜道，第一次 行Aiko已覺特別，「但街坊會投訴不實用，電
梯只有上行，下行要行樓梯，商場開放式的設 計在下雨時好容易撇濕。」
舊不必然是好，新亦非必然不好。自1990年代
起，香港的屋邨多以和諧式建築為主，常被詬 病一式一樣，但慢慢細看，原來也有驚喜。譬 如2003年建成的健明邨，在設計時融入昔日調
景嶺平房區的歷史，屋邨更統一以日月星宿作 主題；座落於啟德發展區的啟晴邨與德朗邨， 同樣融入啟德歷史，遊樂場帶有舊機場色彩， 屋邨處處可見飛機形狀 的裝置及啟德舊照。
「一路行一路探索就會 發現，新屋邨在綠化上
做得很好，有些細節位 亦很有心思。」
Hong Kong is an ever-changing city, but some housing estates seem to be relatively untouched by time and have instead gained a sense of nostalgic beauty. From the building exteriors and public spaces, you can still feel the thought and care that the architects have put in. For example, Lai Tak Tsuen, Lok Wah Estate, Choi Hung Estate, and Kwong Yuen Estate all have their own characteristics. Having travelled around, Aiko has her personal favourites too. She is especially fond of Kwong Yuen Estate, which has red brick walls, and Cho Yiu Chuen, which is known as the most beautiful housing estate in Hong Kong. ‘Kwong Yuen Estate is very beautiful. It has a clock tower, a shopping centre made up of small houses with brick walls, and a dried-up pool. It has a really complete design.’ Cho Yiu Chuen, on the other hand, is famous for its diverse design and ample public space. Its eight buildings, all built along the hill, are well-arranged with different heights and exude comfort. But there is a gap sometimes between beauty and practicality. Hin Keng Estate in Tai Wai, for example, has a continental feel to it and even has a circular ramp in its shopping centre. Aiko was struck by its specialness on her first visit. ‘But the residents complain about issues with practicality: there is only an escalator for going up, and only stairs are available for going down. With the shopping centre’s open design, it’s hard not to get wet when it rains.’
What’s old is not necessarily good, and what’s new is not necessarily bad. Since the 1990s, most of the housing estates in Hong Kong have been dominated by harmony blocks, which may seem rather samey. But when you look more carefully, there are surprises to be found too. For example, the design of Kin Ming Estate, built in 2003, incorporated its history as the former Tiu Keng Leng Cottage Area, and has a solar system theme. Kai Ching Estate and Tak Long Estate, located in the Kai Tak Development Area, were also designed with Kai Tak’s history in mind. The playground has elements of the old airport, and the housing estate features many aircraftshaped facilities and old photos.
‘As you go and explore, you’ll find that the new housing estates have done a good job in greening, and there are some really thoughtful details.’
一旦開始做，便努力做好這件事。
工作時路過，繞進屋邨拍拍照；無聊時搭上一 輛巴士，隨心選個屋邨逛逛；放假時，一口氣 跑幾個屋邨，行到腿軟為止。大部分時間，她 都隨心而行，不多作規劃，但原來有些屋邨不 是想去就可以去，譬如位於禁區的沙頭角邨要 有禁區紙才可以進入，赤柱馬坑邨、西貢對 面海邨等則要有充足的時間及閒情逸致才會 到訪，更甚者有些屋邨將面臨重建，如馬頭圍
邨、真善美村等，要趕在清拆前拜訪，這些都 是Aiko面對的挑戰。
她心底也有個時間表，面臨重建或翻新的屋邨 會先走訪，盡量記下建築物的吉光片羽。近日 網民發現隨着麥當勞分店不斷翻新，1:1的麥當 勞叔叔塑像已買少見少，只餘石圍角邨最後一
個，而該邨的麥當勞分店亦進行裝修，讓人掛 心麥當勞叔叔能否保存下來。「香港就是變得 這麼快，不像歐洲或外國可以有百年建築，我
想盡自己所能做個記錄，不想在面目全非後才 感到後悔及可惜。」
258個屋邨說多不多，但每個屋邨都盛載不同 的人與故事，是城市重要的構成。旅程來到一 半，還有許多有特色的屋邨尚未登場，Aiko 期望透過文字與照片連繫大家對城市、對社區 的愛。「這是很大的推動力，我很享受做這件 事，也認識多了社區。」她說。
Once Aiko starts doing something, she strives to do it well.
When she passes by a housing estate, she goes in and takes pictures. When she’s bored, she gets on a bus and picks a housing estate to wander around. When she has time off, she visits several housing estates in a row and walks until her legs give out. Most of the time, she goes with spontaneity, not planning. But it turns out that there are some housing estates you cannot just visit when you feel like it. Sha Tau Kok Chuen, for example, is in a restricted area and requires a Closed Area Permit for entry. You also need a lot of time and the right mood to go to Ma Hang Estate in Stanley and Tui Min Hoi Chuen in Sai Kung. Housing estates on the verge of redevelopment, such as Ma Tau Wai Estate and Chun Seen Mei Chuen, also pose a challenge.
Aiko has a schedule in mind too. She prioritises the housing estates that will soon be redeveloped or renovated, in hopes of documenting these precious cultural relics. Recently, it has come to some netizens’ attention that with the renovation of one McDonald’s after another, Ronald McDonald statues have become a rarity: the last one left is in the Shek Wai Kok Estate branch. That branch is also undergoing renovations, leaving many people wondering the fate of the statue. ‘Hong Kong just changes so fast, unlike Europe or other countries that make room for century-old buildings. I want to do my best to create records. I don’t want to be filled with rue and regret when things become completely unrecognisable.’
You may not think 258 housing estates are a lot, but each one contains different people and stories and is an important part of the city. Halfway through her journey, with many distinctive housing estates still to come, Aiko hopes to connect people’s love for the city and the community through words and photos. ‘It's been a great motivating force. I enjoy doing this very much, and I’ve come to know the community better,’ she says.
兒時住在何文田愛民邨，印象最深刻的是井字型設計 的天井和長長的走廊，那裏可說是把無數戶人家連結 起來。每家每戶都有自己的鐵閘和大門，大家總是開 着大門，趟上鐵閘，再配上一塊自製的布簾，既能通 風，又方便大人觀察外面的情況，可以隨時叫自己的 小朋友返屋企。
屋邨走廊及天井位置是小朋友玩樂的天地。記得最初 做功課的速度很慢，功課也做得不好，媽媽不讓我出 去與其他小朋友玩耍，我只能隔着鐵閘和布簾偷望外 面的情況，聽外面一眾小朋友玩樂的聲音。後來，為
了可以外出玩耍，我的功課愈做愈快，愈做愈好，媽 媽再沒有阻止我出去玩。
此外，屋邨有守望相助的街坊鄰里，大家的關係非常 密切，見面會互相打招呼，噓寒問暖幾句，關心一下 近況。一眾街坊亦會把洗好的衣服掛在走廊的欄杆上 晾曬，也不會擔心被人偷走。這都是以往公屋獨有的 常態，更衍生出各種屋邨文化及情誼，還有無數的小 城故事。
無可否認，現時新落成的屋邨的設施及環境可能比以 往優勝，但舊時屋邨的生活是如此快樂，也令我留下 許多愉快的童年回憶。
As a child, I lived in Oi Man Estate in Ho Man Tin. What I remember most are the skywell and long corridors, which connected countless families. Every household had its own gate and front door. People tended to leave the door open and the gate closed and put on a homemade curtain. This way, there was good ventilation, and it was easy for adults to see what was going on outside and to call their children home any time.
The corridors and the skywell area were where children played. I remember that I used to do my homework slowly and poorly, and so my mother didn’t let me go out and play with other children. All I could do was to peek through the curtain and the gate and listen to other children play. Because I really wanted to play, I started doing my homework faster and better, and never again did my mother stop me from going out to play.
Also, the estate’s neighbours watched out for each other and had great relationships. We would say hello and chat when we bumped into each other. Many people would dry their laundry on the corridor railings, without worrying that their clothes would be stolen. All this was normal and unique to public estates in the past, giving rise to many cultural quirks, friendships, and stories.
It is undeniable that the newly completed housing estates have better facilities and conditions. But life in the old housing estates was full of joy and left me with many pleasant childhood memories.
/ 圖、文 Photo & Text：Jenny Chau /
每時每地都有不同的故事發生，你在社 區裏有哪些經歷和回憶？步行徑現正收 集九龍城區的故事，不論是關於舊區變 遷、街坊鄰里，還是生活小事，都歡迎 投稿與我們分享。
Different stories happen all the time everywhere. What are your experiences and memories in the community? We are now collecting stories of the Kowloon City District, whether it is about the changes in the old district, the neighbourhood, or the little things of life, you are welcome to contribute and share with us.
九龍城是你居住、工作、生活的地方嗎？這是一個新舊兼容，充滿特色的社 區，人來人往而各取所需，或喧囂或靜謐，卻總有讓人心安之處。下期季刊 我們一起在九龍城區走走，探索區內的「好地方」。不論是已知的、尋常 的，還是冷門之地，歡迎街坊與我們分享。
Is Kowloon City where you reside, work, and live? This is a place that’s open to both new and old, is full of character, and has something for everyone. Whether you’re after the hustle and bustle or some peace and quiet, there’s a place for you. In the next issue, we’ll go around Kowloon City and explore its good spots. If you’ve got one to share – it doesn’t matter if it’s known, ordinary, or obscure, we’d love to hear about it!
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暌違三年，步行徑再次聯同街坊帶路推出地膽導 賞培訓，今次共有17位參加者學滿出師。他們在 剛過去的3月，透過密集的工作坊及落區考察，成 功設計了4條有關九龍城的導賞路線，並於6月推 出公眾導賞團。
九龍城是香港的舊區之一，有深厚的歷史及文 化，有不少老字號與餐廳，同時也面臨着變遷。
一眾參加者分為4個小隊，帶着好奇心捐窿捐罅， 走入寨城公園追尋寨城過去，穿越街頭巷尾品嚐 地道美食，與街坊聊天收集故事。過程中，大家 對導賞主題有不同的意見，譬如如何拿捏玩味性
與資訊性，一條路線應設計多少個講解點，着重 體驗性還是探索性等，最終在不斷修訂方向與試 行後，初步的路線終於出爐。
公眾導賞團詳情可留意步行徑Facebook更新。
From Neighbouring Residents to CityGuys –Exploring a Different Kowloon City
After a three-year hiatus, the Walking Trail has once again teamed up with Kaifong Tour on the ‘CityGuy’ Tour Guide Training. The 17 graduates spent in last March doing intensive workshops and site visits, which resulted in the creation of four guided tours of Kowloon City. The training process saw everyone sharing their different opinions on the themes of guided tours, finding the balance between fun and information, considering how many points of interest to include with explanation, and deciding whether to be more experiential or to be more exploratory. After many revisions and trials, the first routes are out.
For details of the public guided tours, please stay tuned to our Facebook Page.
