步蹤｜第十七期｜泰潮文化

街舖林立的九龍城，是很多人的覓食之地，當中又以潮州店及泰國店最為集中，不論食品、香料、雜貨，總能找到 心頭好，不少街坊甚至逢年過節都會前來購買家鄉特產，「小潮州」、「小泰國」之名也因此不逕而走。你有想過 潮州人與泰國人為甚麼會聚在九龍城？泰潮族群之間有甚麼淵源嗎？今年七月，我們帶着疑問與香港城市大學中文 及歷史系的實習同學進行「九龍城泰潮文化口述歷史計劃」，一同走入九龍城，尋找答案。 我們遇上不少面冷心熱的店主，有幸參與了東頭邨盂蘭勝會的儀式，負責人說：「終有一日香港只會剩下一兩個盂 蘭勝會，人們才會珍惜，像舞火龍、太平清醮那樣，有的時候不去珍惜，到沒有了就會珍惜。」因為疫情，泰潮節 慶已停辦近三年，加上九龍城重建在即，小潮州、小泰國面臨消散。今期季刊，我們為大家送上九龍城的泰潮近 況，也邀請東頭邨一位潮劇前輩分享做盂蘭神功戲的點滴。誠邀大家找一天來九龍城逛逛，感受泰潮的氛圍，珍惜 尚存的一切。

Home to a dazzling array of shops and eateries, Kowloon City is a popular hangout for gourmets. A cluster of Teochew and Thai shops can also be found there, offering all sorts of imported foodstuffs, spices and groceries, which attract many residents in the neighbourhood to come looking for traditional products from their hometown for new year and other festive celebrations. This is how the name “Little Teochew” and “Little Thailand” spread. Have you ever wondered why there is a sizeable population of Teochew and Thai people in Kowloon City? How are these two ethnic groups related? In July 2022, through the oral history programme, we visited the neighbourhood with interns from the Department of Chinese and History of City University of Hong Kong to find the answer.

We met many shop owners who showed profound passion underneath their controlled exterior. We were also fortunate to take part in the rituals of Tung Tau Estate Yu Lan Festival. 'Some day, there will only be one or two Yu Lan Festival left in Hong Kong. People only value the cultures when they are disappearing, just like Fire Dragon Dance and Da Jiu Festival. They take things for granted until they lose them,' the organiser sighed. The Thai-Teochew festivals have been cancelled for three consecutive years due to the pandemic. The upcoming renewal project in Kowloon City is also threatening the existence of 'Little Teochew' and 'Little Thailand'. In this newsletter, we bring to you the updated development of Thai-Teochew ethnic groups. We also invited a senior worker of Teochew Opera in Tung Tau Estate to share her experience in performing Yu Lan rituals. We sincerely invite you to visit Kowloon City and experience the Thai-Teochew cultures before they disappear.

1/F, Lower Block, Chun Seen Mei Chuen, Ma Tau Chung, Kowloon

Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre： Shop No.5, Ground Floor, Wan Tung Building, No. 115 Tam Kung Road, Kowloon 電話 Tel：+852 3183 0928 電郵 Email：kctwt@skhwc.org.hk 傳真 Fax：+852 3104 9911 網址 Web：kowlooncitywalkingtrail.hk 步蹤電子版 Newsletter e-version： issuu.com/kowloon.city.walking.trail Kowloon.City.Walking.Trail

The Latest Updates on Public Facilities Enhancement

家園；路段二則沿侯王道，途經太子道西、世運花園、 宋皇臺花園至北帝街。同時，為加強步行徑之連貫性， 團隊亦已開始於連接土瓜灣至紅磡的路段三、四及五加 置更多硬件裝飾及方向指示牌，預計所有路段的工程將 於本年底完成。 *最終工程位置因應相關政府部門要求及實際工程 可行性作調整及改動。

Consisting of 5 designated routes, the Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail is about 6.5 kilometers long, which is the longest of its kind in Hong Kong. The public facilities on trail have undergone upgrading, which includes the renewal of planters and railings, installation of new infill floor and paving blocks, new light pole sign plates and information panels.

The hardware works for Route 1 “The History of Walled City” and Route 2 “Remnants of the Song Dynasty” has commenced. Route 1 starts from Nam Kok Road and connects via the outer of the Kowloon Walled City Park and Carpenter Road, with an extension to Hau Wong Temple and Stone Houses Family Garden. Route 2 begins from Hau Wong Road, passes through Prince Edward Road West, Olympic Garden, Sung Wong Toi Garden to Pak Tai Street. To strengthen the coherence of the Walking Trail, further enhancement works of Route 3, 4 and 5 connecting To Kwa Wan and Hung Hom have commenced at the same time. All works are expected to be completed by the end of 2022.

* Final construction location of public facilities may vary subject to the approvals from government departments and on site adjustment and modification.

Kowloon City, small as it is, has a rich cultural landscape. Natives of Teochew started living in Kowloon City half a century ago. The Teochew dialect could be heard in every corner, Teochew shops were abundant, and residents raised funds for Yu Lan Festival every year. Then things changed as more and more Thais settled in. Are you aware of the close relationship between Teochew and Thai people?

Neither population came to Kowloon City by chance. Teochew people came to Hong Kong after the war. Diligent and business-savvy, they settled in busy districts like Kowloon City and set up bakeries, restaurants, grocery stores, etc. Some also travelled across the South China Sea to pursue opportunities in Thailand and Vietnam. In the 1970s and 1980s, many descendants of these Teochew natives in Thailand chose to settle in Hong Kong. One reason was that Kowloon City, with its proximity to Kai Tai Airport and its Teochew community, was an attractive place to do business. Another explanation is that back in those years, many Hongkongers looked for wives in Thailand, and these marriages included those between the aforementioned descendants and Hongkongers of Teochew descent. Settling in Kowloon City, these new brides made a living using their skills as cooks and masseuses.

Given how well the Thais ran their businesses in Kowloon City and how Hong Kong’s economy was booming, more Thais migrated as well, gradually forming ‘Little Thailand’. Meanwhile, many Teochew people moved away in the 1980s after the government announced the demolition of the Walled City, resulting in far fewer Teochew shops. Still, Teochew culture has not disappeared completely, and most Teochew shops are on Nga Tsin Long Road. The Thai stores are mostly on South Wall Road.

Kinship

Many people like going to Kowloon City for Thai food because there are many options which are managed by Thai chefs, and the taste is more authentic. If you want to cook Thai food at home, Ruamjai Thai Grocery on South Wall Road is a great place for ingredients. The seafood and vegetables there are imported from Thailand. And ready-made tom yum soup, laksa, curry, mango sticky rice, homemade hoisin sauce, Hainanese chicken sauce, pomelo salad dressing, and various snacks are also available there. The shop owner can also order Thai products for the customers. Lemon Shop nearby is good for groceries as well.

Teochew people are particular about their food too. Kowloon City has plenty of popular Teochew restaurants, noodle houses, bakeries, and grocery shops. For meals out with family and friends, long-established restaurants like Lok Hau Fook, Chong Fat, and Nam Kee, etc. are patronised. For weddings and celebrations, cakes and pastries are usually ordered from Kwai Yu Zai. For everyday food items such as kueh, cold fish, smoked duck, braised meat, preserved olive vegetable, and pickled mustard, etc., all can be found at Chiu Fat, Yuen Hup, or Yip Shing Hong on Nga Tsin Long Road.

Due to the pandemic, Songkran, Yu Lan Festival, and Ancestral Worship of the Kwok Clan have not been held in the last three years.

Festivals and Celebrations

For Chinese, Lunar New Year is an important festival, but to the Thai-Teochew people in Hong Kong, that pales in comparison to Songkran and Yu Lan Festival. Songkran, which takes place in April, is known as Thai New Year, during which people would splash water on each other as a form of blessing. Thais in Kowloon City hold the Hong Kong version of Songkran. They put on new clothes, bathe and worship the Buddha, and smear white powder and splash water on passersby. In December, on King Bhumibol’s birthday, the Thai community in Kowloon City also celebrates with traditional song and dance performances and special snacks.

Yu Lan Festival, which takes place in the seventh month in the lunar calendar, is a festival of the Teochew community, jointly organised by shop owners and residents. There are two Yu Lan Festivals in Kowloon City: Carpenter Road Park and Argyle Street Playground. Among the many activities are rituals for deities and wandering ghosts and Teochew opera. Yu Lan Festival is not as terrifying as some might think. It is more like the Day of the Dead in the West and is a big carnival. As another example of Teochew people’s dedication to traditional culture, Ancestral Worship of the Kwok Clan in Kowloon City is organised every year to commemorate the birth of their first ancestor.

seventh month in the lunar calendar is said to be when ghosts are free to roam the earth, and many elders would advise against lingering on the streets and staying out late. It is, however, the busiest month for Mrs Ngai Wong Pui Chun, a resident of Tung Tau Estate. Every day would see her leaving home early and returning late at night, going from one Yu Lan Festival venue to another. That is because wherever the Yu Lan Festival is celebrated, there is Teochew Opera for Deities, and Mrs Ngai is both a performer and a leader of a Teochew opera troupe.

Teochew opera is one of the many regional genres of traditional Chinese opera. It is performed in Teochew dialect and becomes popular in the Chaoshan and Minnan regions. Hong Kong has a sizable Chaoshan population, and Teochew opera is used to flourish here. There were Teochew opera performances during the Yu Lan Festival, the Lantern Festival, and the Tin Hau Festival, and there were many overseas tours as well. Mrs Ngai, now 73 years old, lived through the heyday of Teochew opera and has been witnessing its decline. She has continued her pursuit of Teochew opera because she is ‘unwilling to give up what she loves’.

Mrs Ngai, a Cambodian of Teochew descent, began her theatre career in her father's troupe. Her father was an actor of the chou (clown) role type, her mother was a secondary female character. She started acting in child roles when she was 12 or 13 and became a female lead at around 20. Life was not easy in Cambodia. Peak season meant performing overnight, from 8pm to 5am. In off-seasons, the family carried out small businesses like selling sorbet and joss paper. In 1971, due to the civil war in Cambodia, the family emigrated to Hong Kong. Relatives referred the young Ngai and her sister to the Sing Ngai Chiu Chow Opera Troupe. Upon the completion of her three-year contract, she moved to the Hon Kwong Chiu Chow Opera Troupe as a female lead. There she also met her husband, Ngai Yam, who took over the troupe in 1985 and renamed it Sun Hon Kwong.

Teochew opera was incredibly popular, with fierce competition among different troupes. Operas for Deities at Yu Lan Festivals were particularly coveted jobs, with troupes trying to out-compete one another with bigger bamboo theatres and budgets. Many troupes would then go on halfyear tours encompassing Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, etc. ‘In 1985, I went to Los Angeles with Chan Chor Wai, who was famous for playing the xiaosheng [young civil male] role. We did seven shows in 21 days. That was probably our most impressive tour.’ In the 1990s, Sun Hon Kwong was invited to perform in Singapore and full house all 30 nights. At its peak, performing in the seventh lunar month would generate enough income for a year. Most of the time, though, there was still a need for other ways to make a living. Mrs Ngai said, ‘I’ve had a job in Lok Shan Road making jeans, and I’ve worked as a factory supervisor in San Po Kong. I’d have starved to death if I’d just waited for that month of acting. But I had a real interest in it, so I carried on.’

She is willing to give up everything for her hobby. In 1999, she retired from acting and became the deputy head of the troupe. When her husband passed away in 2017, she took over as the head of the troupe and looked after all the troupe's affairs. The pandemic meant no Yu Lan festivities for almost three years, which was gutting to Mrs Ngai. This year, the Sun Hon Kwong Chiu Chow Opera Troupe was invited to perform in the Yu Lan Festivals in Tai Kong Po and Cheung Sha Wan. Mrs Ngai took both jobs knowing that she would not make money from them: ‘I’ve rested enough in the past two years, and now I’m going to indulge. I’ve worked in Tai Kong Po for many years; we’re like old neighbours. It doesn’t matter if I lose money.’ In the past, the troupe would hire actors from the mainland on month-long contracts. Now, with an all-local cast, each paid according to the number of performances, the cost has gone up considerably.

After a bit of groaning, Mrs Ngai reached for her phone and said, excitedly, ‘Look, here’s a photo from a performance this year. I was on stage.’ The costumed Mrs Ngai had beaming eyes and a sweet smile, and with her smooth movement as well, she did not seem like the usual 70-something-year-old. ‘If there is a need, I’ll get on stage and perform; if not, I’ll work backstage, helping out with hair and costume. It couldn’t be helped – I’d like to step back and have someone else do it, but hiring is difficult.’ A key feature of Teochew opera is that it is performed in Teochew dialect, which poses a limitation. Very few people speak Teochew dialect and are willing to enter the business, so there is a real issue of succession. The youngest actor in the troupe is in their 50s, and most of the actors are over 60 years old. Child roles are played by actors of a smaller stature. ‘We can’t find any young people to come perform. Even if you find ones, they can’t do it.’

The downturn of popularity of Teochew opera seems irreversible, and still, Mrs Ngai persists. She would rather pay for storage than give up the troupe’s costumes, headwear, and props.

Every time there is a show, she single-handedly organises the transportation, set, cast, and food. ‘I like to prepare food at home and take it to the theatre because it is cheaper. Think about it: how much will it cost to get takeout for 30-some people? I just make a big batch of bitter gourd with pork belly and pickles and prepare a few chickens, and everyone is very happy!’

Her family members keep advising her not to work so hard, but as they can see how enthusiastic she is – even her hypertension seems to have disappeared – they just let her be. As she says herself, it is great to have shows to do, and the hard work is worth it.

There are two Teochew restaurants in Kowloon City that I go more often: Chong Fat and Nam Kee.

I’m from Teochew. When I was little, I lived in Wang Tau Hom, which is now Lok Fu. I’ve lived on Fuk Lo Tsun Road in Kowloon City since I got married. Chong Fat is our family canteen. It doesn’t matter where everyone has moved to; any time there’s a family meal, we go to Chong Fat. My real favourite, though, is Nam Kee. Back then, when I was a kid, Nam Kee was in Wang Tau Hom, and every day the boss would walk barefoot to Kowloon City to get ingredients for the restaurant. Decades later, I still haven’t forgotten the taste of Nam Kee’s fried rice noodle with beef!

/ 文 Text：Ng Lisa /

My knowledge of Thailand used to be limited to tom yum soup and prawn cakes, and I’d go to a Thai restaurant in Kowloon City when I had a craving for them. Then I met my current boyfriend and got to learn more about Thailand. My boyfriend is Chinese and Thai mixed-race. Sometimes, I would learn to make Thai food from his mother. I’ve found that Thai people are very particular about sauces. I’ll have to go to Thai shops more often to learn to recognise the seasonings and condiments. It's hard to make a good sauce, but the result can be incredibly satisfying.

On holidays, we’d go to ‘Little Thailand’ in Kowloon City for lunch and get snacks such as bread with pandan custard and pork skewers. I’ve always been impressed by the business savvy of the Thai people. They use clear plastic bags to pack takeaway food, so there’s no spillage of sauce.

With more contact and understanding, I’ve come to love the friendliness of Thai people and the warmth of ‘Little Thailand’. Having heard more Thai in recent years, I’ve picked up a little bit and can occasionally communicate in simple Thai!

The best way to get to know a city is by literally walking through it. From potted plants on a street corner, to the patterns on a building, to the layout of a space, to the decorations of a store – any of them can be a point to pause and admire. Even wandering around aimlessly can be a great way to get a feel for the environment and spark your imagination. Taking a stroll can be a personal, spontaneous thing. Traditional old districts such as Kowloon City are wonderful places to stroll and explore. Do you have a favourite route in Kowloon City for a leisurely walk? Where do you feel particularly relaxed? Feel free to share your experience with us.

Last summer, we organised ‘Immersion in Old Kowloon Walled City’. Through a series of site visits, conversations, and interviews, participants deepened their understanding of Kowloon Walled City’s past and present and gathered its residents’ memories. Leveraging also their discovery and use of participatory design thinking, they then turned these stories into scripts for augmented-reality audio stories that would work with the Walking Trail’s hardware facilities.

Interestingly, many participants themselves had come with their own stories. As former residents of the walled city, they see not the city of darkness described by outsiders; instead, they regard the city with plenty of feelings and fondness. To gather more stories, our team also invited interviewees who had lived in the Walled City to share their life. Ah Sun recalled playing carron at the elderly centre and sneaking a peek at erotic dancing when he was a child. The walled city was like a huge playground to him. Another interviewee, Uncle Man, worked in the walled city when he was young and bought property there out of trust in the ‘developer’. Life in the walled city was not all that different from life outside, he said, except for the unstable supply of water and electricity and the poorer conditions.

Participants finally created ten audio stories from the interviews. They hope that the launch of these stories will strengthen the public’s understanding of the walled city.

躍變．龍城體驗館：九龍譚公道115號運通大廈地下5號舖 Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre:

Location: Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre

Class B, D｜aged 6 or above and their parents

Target: Class A, C, E｜aged 12 or above

Class E｜23 Dec (Fri) 15:30-17:00

Class D｜9 Dec (Fri) 15:30-17:00

Class C｜4 Dec (Sun) 15:30-17:00

Class B｜4 Dec (Sun) 11:00-12:30

Date & Time: Class A｜30 Nov (Wed) 15:30-17:00

welcome a new year ahead.

Cantonese opera-themed perpetual calendar home to

opera and Ko Shan Theatre. You can also bring your DIY

allows you to explore the culture and history of Cantonese

as well as the Ko Shan Theatre in Hung Hom. This workshop

general public will think of Xiqu Centre and Sunbeam Theatre,

Speaking of venues of Cantonese opera performance, the

Calendar DIY Workshop

日期及時間： A班｜11月30日（三）15:30-17:00 B班｜12月4日（日）11:00-12:30 C班｜12月4日（日）15:30-17:00 D班｜12月9日（五）15:30-17:00 E班｜12月23日（五）15:30-17:00 對象： A、C、E班｜12歲或以上人士 B、D班｜6歲或以上兒童及其家長 地點︰ 躍變．龍城體驗館

2023粵劇主題萬年曆DIY工作坊 香港每年有不少粵劇演出，除了較為人熟知的戲曲中心及新 光戲院外，位於紅磡高山道的高山劇場，亦是粵劇的重要表 演場地。是次工作坊將與大家探索高山劇場的歷史及粵劇文 化，一同DIY粵劇主題萬年曆，迎接新一年的來臨。

Programme Recommendation

所有活動免費參加！更多活動及報名詳情，請留意Facebook專頁。 All activities are free to join! For more details, please stay tuned to our Facebook page.

**Bringing your own telescope is welcome.

*Equipment is limited. Activity will be done in groups.

Target: Aged 10 or above, welcome to participate in pair

Location: Kowloon City

Session B｜17 Dec (Sat) 15:00-17:00

Date and Time: Session A｜9 Dec (Fri) 15:00-17:00

treasure together!

birds you can find? In this winter, let’s dig for this ecological

do bird watching in Kowloon City? What are the common city

bird watching for nature lovers. Is there any place you can

season for migratory birds, but also an optimal season for

In the fourth quarter of the year, it is not only a migration

Kowloon City Bird Watching Tour

Birds in the “City”:

Opening Hours: 11:00-18:00 (Lunch time 13:00-14:00)

Date: 6 Nov to 31 Dec (Closed on Monday)

Transformation Information Centre.

Those entries are now showcased in the Kowloon City in

selected and a total of 9 awards were finally shortlisted.

received around 400 applications this year, 19 entries were

awareness of the public towards community change. We

The Community Photography Competition aims at arousing

2022 Exhibition

Community Photography Competition

the "Dragon City of Light and Shadow"

Shortlisted and

Award-winning entries

Shop No.5, Ground Floor, Wan Tung Building, No. 115 Tam Kung Road, Kowloon 其他精彩活動

踏入秋冬，是候鳥遷居的季節，也是生態愛好者觀鳥的黃金 時期。九龍城有哪些地方可以觀賞雀鳥？常見的市區雀鳥又 有哪些？這個冬天，一同發掘九龍城的生態寶藏！ 日期及時間： 第一團｜12月9日（五）15:00-17:00 第二團｜12月17日（六）15:00-17:00 地點： 九龍城 對象： 10歲或以上，歡迎二人同行 *器材有限，需分組進行活動。 **歡迎自備望遠鏡 「光影．龍城——社區攝影比賽2022」 入圍及得獎作品展

of

城中鳥：九龍城觀鳥體驗團