步蹤|第十八期|散步日常

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躍變.龍城——九龍城主題步行徑

Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail

社區 / 我們散步,我們寫作......

Walk and Write

人物 / 黃宇軒:今期流行散步

Trending: Taking a Walk

焦點 / 「聲音故事:迴.眸寨城」展覽

“Sound Stories: Immersion in Old Kowloon Walled City” Exhibition

常 日 散步
季刊 第十八期 Newsletter Issue.18 01-03.2023 歷史.文化.藝術.設計 History.Culture.Arts.Design

九龍城主題步行徑的硬件工程終於完成,以欄杆、燈柱裝飾、地面裝飾、資訊指示牌等設施串連五個路段,從 九龍城到紅磡全長約6.5公里,歡迎大家過來走走。

以步行的方式,走入社區、認識社區,是步行徑設立的初衷之一。步行本就是日常習慣,而將習慣與社區扣連 向來不易,所幸近年坊間亦慢慢出現「城市散步」活動,「散步」開始入屋,大家對城市、對社區的好奇心被 激發出來,大概這都是出於對「地方的愛」。散步是怎麼一回事?散步到底要做甚麼?怎樣提升散步的趣味? 今期專題邀請了《香港散步學》作者黃宇軒分享他對城市散步的想法,並刊載早前九龍城文學散步活動參加者 的即席創作,帶大家以另一種方式閱讀我們的社區。

The hardware works of Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail is finally completed. Spanning about 6.5km from Kowloon City to Hung Hom, the Trail is divided into five routes linked by railings, light pole sign plates, infill floor blocks, information panels, etc. Please come and visit.

Walking as a means to explore the community was among the reasons for the Walking Trail’s creation. Linking an ordinary habit with the community is no easy feat. Fortunately, recent years have seen more ‘city walking’ activities popping up and walking for pleasure garnering more interest. People’s love of the city seems to have triggered their curiosity. What exactly is a stroll? What is it for? What else can you do? Learn more in our feature story with Sampson Wong, author of Hong Kong Strollology. This issue also features the works that participants of the recent literary walk created on the spot.

九龍城主題步行徑辦公室:

九龍馬頭涌真善美村低座一樓

Office: 1/F, Lower Block, Chun Seen Mei Chuen, Ma Tau Chung, Kowloon

躍變.龍城體驗館:

Newsletter Issue.18

01-03.2023

編輯:伍麗微

Edited

Designed by SY Wong

編審:陳詠琳、鄭詠恩

Reviewed by Gwyneth Chan, Vivian Cheng

督印人:何穎儀

Supervised by Joyce Ho

印量:8,000

8,000 copies in print

出版日期:2023年3月

First edition Mar 2023

九龍譚公道115號運通大廈地下5號舖

Kowloon City in Transformation

Information Centre:

Shop No.5, Ground Floor, Wan Tung Building, No. 115 Tam Kung Road, Kowloon

電話 Tel:+852 3183 0928

電郵 Email:kctwt@skhwc.org.hk

傳真 Fax:+852 3104 9911

網址 Web:kowlooncitywalkingtrail.hk

步蹤電子版 Newsletter e-version: issuu.com/kowloon.city.walking.trail

Kowloon.City.Walking.Trail

Kowloon City Walking Trail

九龍城主題步行徑

免費索取地點 Free Copies

步行徑手機應用程式 Mobile App

立即下載 Download Now

編者的話 Editor's Note
設計排版:黃雪瑩
躍變.龍城——九龍城主題步行徑 季刊 第十八期

真善美村 Chun Seen Mei Chuen

香港聖公會 聖三一座堂 S.K.H. Holy Trinity Cathedral

步行徑公共設施 工程最新發展

The Latest Updates on Public Facilities Enhancement

牛棚藝術村 Cattle

Eastern舊東方紗廠 CottonMills

Shim Luen St 燕安街 Yin On St 駿發街 Tsun Fat St 鶴齡街 Hok Ling St 十三街 13 Streets

煤氣廠 Towngas Gasholder

九龍城主題步行徑總長約6.5公里,分為五個特色路 段,是全港最長的主題步行徑。路段上的公共設施先 後進行改善及美化,包括更新花盆及欄杆、加設地面 及地磚裝飾、燈柱裝飾,及社區資訊指示牌等。 步行徑路段一「寨城憶古」及路段二「大宋遺址」的 硬件工程已於2022年底完成。路段一以南角道為起 點,途經九龍寨城公園外圍至賈炳達道,另有支線往 侯王古廟及石屋家園;路段二則沿侯王道,途經太子 道西、世運花園、宋皇臺花園至北帝街。連同早前已 完成的路段三、四及五,整條步行徑的硬件設施經已 落成。團隊會定時檢視硬件的狀態及進行維修保養, 以確保公眾可充分享受路段上的設施。因應硬件落 成,團隊亦將策劃不同類型的文化活動,以推動更多 人認識及遊覽九龍城。

Infill Paving Block

燈柱裝飾 Sign Plate 欄杆 Railing

Consisting of 5 designated routes, the Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail has a total length of 6.5 kilometers, which is the longest of its kind in Hong Kong. The public facilities on trail have undergone upgrading, which includes the renewal of planters and railings, installation of new infill floor and paving blocks, new light pole sign plates and information panels.

燈柱裝飾 Sign Plate

資訊指示牌 Information Panel

地面裝飾 Infill Floor Block

The hardware works for Route 1 “The History of Walled City” and Route 2 “Remnants of the Song Dynasty” were completed in December 2022. Route 1 starts from Nam Kok Road and connects via the outer of the Kowloon Walled City Park and Carpenter Road, with an extension to Hau Wong Temple and Stone Houses Family Garden. Route 2 begins from Hau Wong Road, passes through Prince Edward Road West, Olympic Garden, Sung Wong Toi Garden to Pak Tai Street. Together with the completion of Route 3, 4, and 5, the hardware works of the Walking Trail have been completed. Our team will keep on checking and maintaining the hardwares, as well as organising various cultural activities to ensure that everyone can fully enjoy the hardware facilities.

KOWLOON CITY 九龍城 TO KWA WAN 土瓜灣 HUNG HOM 九龍城渡輪碼頭 Kowloon City Ferry Pier 衙前圍道 Nga Tsin Wai Road 太子道西 Prince Edward Rd West 太子道東 Prince Edward RoadEast 東頭村道 Tung Tau TsuenRd 宋皇臺站 Sung Wong Toi Station 亞皆老街 ArgyleStreet 世運道 OlympicAvenue Hau Wong Rd 賈炳達道 Carpenter Rd 侯 王 道 樂善道 Lok Sin Road 宋皇臺道 SungWongToiRd 啟德隧道 Kai Tak Tunnel Sung On St 浙江街 Chi Kiang St 崇 安 街 旭日街 YukYat Street 土瓜灣道 ToKwa Wan Road SanMa TauSt 新碼頭街 寶其利街BulkeleySt差館里StationLane Ma Tau Wai Road 蕪湖街WuhuSt 馬 頭 圍 道 鶴園東街 Hok Yuen St East 民裕街 Man Yue St 德民街TakManSt 民泰街 漆咸道北 Chatham Road North ManTaiSt 船澳街 Dock St 戴亞街 Dyer Avenue Street 佛光街天橋 木廠街 MokCheongSt 馬頭角道 Ma Tau Kok Road 北帝街 Pak Tai Street 譚公道 Tam Kung Rd 九龍城道 Kowloon City Rd 馬 頭 圍 道 Ma Tau Wai Road 庇利街 Bailey St 紅 磡 道 Hung Hom Road 景雲街 King Wan St 高山道公園 Ko Shan Road Park 聯 合 道 樂善堂小學(舊址) Lok
侯王古廟 Hau Wong Temple 石屋家園 Stone Houses Family Garden 宋王臺花園 Sung Wong Toi Garden 香港聖公會聖匠堂 S.K.H. Holy Carpenter Church & Community Centre 聖母堂 St. Mary Church 寶石戲院 Lux Theatre 紅磡觀音廟 Kwun Yam Temple 褔德古廟 Fuk Tak Temple 北帝古廟 Pak Tai Temple
鷹揚街
St 龍圖街
鳳儀街
鹿鳴街 Luk
麟祥街 Lun
鵬程街
鴻運街
蟬聯街
Sin Tong Primary School (Former Site)
九龍寨城公園 Kowloon Walled City Park
Ying Yeung
Lung To St
Fung Yi St
Ming Street
Cheung St
Pang Ching St
Hung Wan St
Depot Artist Village
天光道遊樂場 Tin Kwong Road Recreation Ground 土瓜灣站 To Kwa Wan Station 黃埔站 Whampoa Station 香港飛行總會 Hong Kong Aviation Club 欄杆 Railing 資訊指示牌 Information Panel 地面裝飾 Infill Floor Block 地磚裝飾
龍城 館
躍變 龍城體驗館 Information Centre
Route 2 Local Culture Walk 寨城憶古 管與不管 路段一 Route 1 Walled City Historical Walk 社區藝術 牛與十三 路段三
Community Art Walk
路段四 Route 4 Waterfront Leisure Walk 欄杆 Railing 資訊指示牌 Information Panel 地面裝飾 Infill Floor Block 當年今日 Today in History 地磚裝飾 Infill Paving Block 花盆 Planter 燈柱裝飾 Sign Plate 資訊指示牌 Information Panel 地面裝飾 Infill Floor Block 燈柱裝飾 Sign Plate 欄杆 Railing 地面裝飾 Infill Floor Block 當年今日 Today in History 燈柱裝飾 Sign Plate 海心公園 Hoi Sham Park 馬頭涌道 Ma Tau Chung Rd 炮仗街 Pau Chung Street
大宋遺址 文史探索 路段二
Route 3
廟堂之旅 我信我在 路段五 Route 5 Temple and Church Walk 海心留痕 漫步海濱

Feature Story

熙來攘往的馬路口,前方是九龍城的老街, 左右的唐樓群夾雜着零星的牙籤樓,背後是 九龍寨城公園。尋常城市景觀,在每人看 來,卻有不同的形狀。

一月,乍暖還寒的天氣,我們一行十多人在 九龍城進行文學散步,沒有甚麼文學徑或路 線,僅僅沿着獅子石道、侯王道與衙前塱道 慢慢而行,準備了數篇本地作家的文章邊走 邊讀。看到戰前唐樓的外牆縫隙長出了小 樹,隱藏於樓梯底的老店靜靜迎來變遷,傍 晚拉上鐵閘的行人道恍如換上新衣。大概從 前從沒有認真而專注地察看街道上的景物, 思緒飛揚,大家捉住了靈感,記下這熟悉而

陌生的瞬間。

一起看看大家的創作。

To the front of this busy intersection are Kowloon City’s old streets; to the sides are old tenement buildings mixed with slender high-rises; and to the back is the Kowloon Walled City Park. Urban landscapes that seem ordinary to some may strike others quite differently.

About ten of us went on a literary walk in Kowloon City one January day. There’s no literary trail; we just strolled along Lion Rock Road, Hau Wong Road, and Nga Tsin Wai Road. We’d brought with writings by local authors and read them as we went along. There's a small tree growing out of the wall of a tenement building from the pre-war era. Under the stairway was an old shop bearing witness to change. At dusk, the street looked as if it’s put on different clothes when shops had their shutters down. We’d probably never paid much attention to what’s around us until now. Inspired, we captured these moments. Let’s look at these creations.

社區 專題
我們 寫作 ……
我們
散 步

and Write Walk

/05
你不會知 它外牆的石屎何時剝落 何時翻新 你只知那些翻新了 那些沒 你不會知 …… 文:So Ka Ho 有天你說 獅子石道的獅子
偶爾
文:鍾世傑 01 02
走失在 石屎的叢林
從墳塋迎來 數點烏鴉 似要目送 城市某個角落的 變遷

文: Zebada Leung

和暖的冬日走在熱鬧的街道, 原來是尾禡拜祭土地的日子,

文: Wan Wing Lam Vivian

燒肉、雞、菜飯,好不豐富。

坐上沒有號碼的小巴

風馳電掣到達鬧市中心 午間的陽光刺眼

路旁車輛的廢氣使白裙白襯衫蒙灰

「獅子石道的雲吞麵最抵食。」

急步向前走去,邊躲避滴水的簷篷

「但又有點想到南角道吃日本菜……」

兩手空空只得用雙手放在額上當作傘

「怎麼可能錯過牛肉餅?」

其實最想這一小時三十五分鐘能無限延長

三三兩兩的小麻雀啄食着地上米粒,

自在的,無拘無束的,吃飽就繼續飛翔。

走在舊樓的屋簷下,

嘗試找尋燕子舊日痕跡,卻無影無蹤。

踏進熙來攘往的繁忙街道,

吊 着 滷水鵝的潮州店鋪,

賣着風乾臘鴨的舊式海味鋪,

究竟今晚買哪一樣作晚餐材料才是最好?

歸途前迎來一陣黑影,

六隻 七隻 八隻 九隻,

不詳預兆?! 不,是日本的吉祥鳥。

快樂很簡單,從來只要是你想。

03 04

Along the Lion Rock Road

We felt

The scattered and fragmented droplets

Mirroring the memories of Our dear Home Kong

Presented in Words

Shared across Our dear Home Kong

Mirroring the memories of The scattered and fragmented droplets

We felt

Along the Lion Rock Road

Text: Lam Sze Long Sharon 05

「啁啾—啁啾—」該起來了,不知名的雀鳥喊破 喉嚨,我再也睡不着。老闆娘拉開厚重的鐵門, 陽光射在綠白相間的紙皮階磚,往上看,左邊有 一個個灰色、白色的方形箱子,放了雞蛋、皮 蛋、咸蛋、湯包等食材,右邊是一個大型的不銹 鋼冷凍櫃,紅色、藍色、橙色的筲箕放滿各種肉 丸,上方有腐竹、腐皮和麵筋掛簾。它們在最醒 目的位置迎賓,總是很快被接走。不過,我只有 羨慕的份兒。

不遠處的長桌上有凍魚、凍蝦和各種炸物,炸魚 丸、魚片和蝦卷的香氣指引着買菜的人往裏走, 我流着口水目送來來往往的顧客。待在後方糕點 的對面,我穿上灰白的衣裳,不分晝夜,昂然挺 立,雄糾糾地與紹興酒、玫瑰露酒守着木架。

早上十一時許,一個個雪白的、粉紅的潮州粿放 在又大又圓的竹筲箕。每天中午,一個紮孖辮的 女孩都會牽着媽媽的手走進來,明亮的眼睛滴溜 一轉,指着最遠的韭菜粿,奶聲奶氣地說,「我 要兩個韭菜粿。」付錢後,她用白白胖胖的雙手 捧着小袋,眼睛緊盯着,像要看穿韭菜的多寡。 媽媽催促着,她才抬頭並笑着揮動小手。我也笑 着說:「再見,我的小女孩。」

午後,陽光變得慵懶,沒有人理會電視機傳來嗡 嗡的聲響。突然聽到「哇」的一聲,電視螢幕出 現港台對決,大伙兒比較在港引起旋風式搶購的 醉品系列,由大路的醉雞醉蛋,到身嬌肉貴的醉 翡翠鮑、醉海蝦和醉花螺。老闆娘朝我看了一 眼,用抹布擦了擦我的身子,小聲說:「你可以 派上用場。」

文:陳甘樺

/07
06

以前那個年代的人們,說話都直來直去的。

把所有自家賣的好東西通通寫在招牌上,在 衙前塱道的兩邊集合。例如像金城的臘味鮮

蛋海產雜貨,招牌由右至左的橫向,貨品就 由上而下的縱向,像幾個人望着鏡頭合照。

店舖拉閘後,還在做生意。店前吊着的幾個

錯落有致的燈膽,像朝早的明爐雞鵝鴨。他 總覺得,燈油就是從動物脂肪提取的。有的 還直接給你一句「澄海老四滷味」的親切問

候!

有間一看就知道是年輕舖子。說話就謙遜多 了,光看店面也不知道賣的是什麼。直截甩 出三個字一一「好東西」。字體的形狀似乎提 示他,是賭枱上的「金錢」和「魚」。

他還沒猜到是賣什麼的。聽說能留下來的, 都應該是好東西。

他就總是這樣單純地相信着,相信着。

九龍城或者是繽紛的,但在入夜之後,經由 無光的唐樓群掩映,九龍城只能是家鄉雞經 典原味炸雞,暗淡而焦燶的顏色。

「復行數十步,豁然開朗。土地平曠,屋舍 儼然,有良田美池桑竹之屬。阡陌交通,雞 犬相聞。」——《桃花源記》

沿賈炳達道縱貫區分,九龍城是一個逆向的 桃花源。迴異於鬧市該長成的輪廓,這裡總 不計較,至揮霍的程度,將過於真實的血肉 剖開——潮濕、腥羶、破敗、落後、昏暗、壓 抑、老舊。諸如此類,彷如某位惡趣味的統 治者或者神靈,將想像力所能及到的負能量 揉捏搓拉,再借助時間,烘烤成一塊隔夜而 漏放蜜糖的鬆餅。

旅遊之都——九龍城並不適宜,甚至是拒絕 旅遊。欠缺規劃的規劃在最不香港的香港當 中,基於一種無用之用,儘管狼狽與傷殘, 但依舊活了下來,比香港更久。

夜間的九龍城或者只可以是炸雞和鬆餅,但 誰不喜歡炸雞和鬆餅?

文:Joey 文:
〈九龍城與炸雞〉 07 08
Cheung Wai Lap

今期流行 散步

Trending: Taking a Walk

人物 專訪 Interview

散步是日常習慣,也是一件隨心的事,但隨心 的事認真做,可能會有不一樣的發現。城市研 究者黃宇軒去年出版《香港散步學》,書中介 紹10條散步路線共100個地方,配上他的解說文 字,在無法外遊的日子下,城中掀起一陣散步 風,關於「散步學」的討論此起彼落。

Walking is both habitual and spontaneous, but you may find something different if you’re more intentional. In his 2022 book, Hong Kong Strollogy, urban researcher Sampson Wong introduces 10 routes encompassing 100 places. While overseas travel was restricted, strolling the streets of Hong Kong grew in popularity, as did discussion about strollology.

‘I don’t want taking a stroll to be a niche thing. I’d like it to be mainstream,’ Sampson says.

/ 黃 宇 軒 /
Wong 「 , 。 」
Sampson
(相片由受訪者提供) (Photos provided by Sampson Wong)

許多年前,黃宇軒已經喜歡上散步。

在城市不同的角落行逛,看見有趣的事物便記下來, 提醒自己跟進及尋找答案。在尋常市區公園裏,他找 到有趣的「微建築群」;在平凡屋邨中,他看到高低 有致的建築美學;在功能性的基建中,他從顏色中引 發聯想。看似日常而微不足道的景色,只要多觀察多 感受,便能跟地方建立關係。這是他心目中的「散步 學」:「其實有少少掛羊頭賣狗肉,因為散步好多時

係好放鬆,不會諗得太多,但我講的散步學背後係講 如何觀察城市。」

讀城市研究出身,自是比普通人對城市空間

多幾分敏銳,然而真正推動他深入散步,是

2017年於明報開設的專欄「Ways of Urbanist Seeing」。每兩星期,他與記者選一個地方 去行,再將路上的觀察整理成文,寫了足足4 年。後來疫情來襲,香港人困於城中,他在 Facebook發佈文章,列出多條路線並鼓勵大家 開啟散步之旅,並於YouTube開設「懷疑人生 便去散步」頻道,定期發佈他於各區的散步影 片,原來簡單地步行,也是充滿吸引力。

「懷疑人生便去散步」的第一段影片在土瓜灣 拍攝,一頭卷髮的黃宇軒背着環保袋,行過幽

靜的高山道公園與依山而建的樂民新村,拾級 而上走到山邊小徑,再向上走是靠背壟道遊樂 場,沿途可見屋邨繽紛的外牆顏色,斜坡上懶 洋洋的貓,被圍封的乒乓球枱,還有從馬頭圍 配水庫遊樂場俯瞰土瓜灣的開揚景觀。影片出 街後,有街坊說住在附近超過20年,但從沒有 去過這些地方。「樂民新村是我珍藏多年的地 點,許多人都不知道這個地方。」他說土瓜灣 有太多他喜歡的地方與角度,無法盡收於影片 中,他後來將之歸納為「從海走到山」,成為 書中其中一條路線。

上一課散步學

Sampson has been a fan of walking for many years.

He’d wander different corners of the city, make note of interesting things, and remind himself to follow up and find answers. He’d find interesting micro-architecture in urban parks, architectural beauty in housing estates, and colourinspired associations in functional infrastructure. As long as you observe more and feel more, however ordinary the scenery may be, there’s a relationship to be built. This is what strollology means to him: ‘It may seem a bit misleading because taking a stroll is usually associated with relaxing and not thinking too much, but I’m really talking about how to observe a city.’

A lesson in strollology

Given his background in urban research, it’s no surprise that Sampson possesses an aboveaverage sensitivity to urban spaces. What really got him into walking, however, was a 2017 column in Ming Pao titled ‘Ways of Urbanist Seeing’. Every two weeks, for four years, he and a reporter would pick a place to go and write up their observations. When the pandemic hit, Sampson started a YouTube channel, ‘When in doubt, take a walk’.

The first video of the channel was filmed in To Kwa Wan. In it, Sampson, sporting curly hair and a tote bag, strolls past the quiet Ko Shan Road Park, then Lok Man Sun Chuen, then up the

stairs to a small trail, then further up to Kau Pui Lung Road Playground. Along the route are the housing estate’s colourful walls, a cat relaxing on the slope, a sealed-off ping pong table, and the view of To Kwa Wan from Ma Tau Wai Service Reservoir Playground. Upon the video’s release, a resident of To Kwa Wan mentioned that they’d never visited these places despite having lived in the area for 20 years. ‘Lok Man Sun Chuen is a place I’ve cherished for many years. Many people don’t know about it.’ There’s more that he enjoys about To Kwa Wan than he could include in the video. He’s since consolidated a ‘From the Sea to the Hill’ route, which you can find in his book.

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好奇心與聯想 香港特別好行

《香港散步學》推出後不斷再版,成為年度暢

銷書之一,各式各樣的散步團在城市中出現, 大眾對於「散步學」充滿好奇,納悶散步到底

是怎麼一回事。日本很早便有散步的討論──路

上觀察學,以好奇心及興趣而進行的路上調查 與記錄,從而引發思考;英國去年出版《Look

Here: On the Pleasures of Observing the City》,則開宗明義指出如何從城市觀察中獲得 樂趣。

黃宇軒的想法亦相近,開放自己的感官,在散

步時觀察城市,並透過互相分享,從而建立一 套觀察方法,因為散步不一定關乎甚麼事,重 要的是好奇心與聯想,即關聯思考。「我是很

八卦的人,甚麼都鍾意睇,在街上見到甚麼就 講甚麼,所以我講的散步學是狐狸派,但有 些人是專注派,很知道自己想在街上得到甚 麼。」沒有甚麼是非看不可的,沉迷建築、喜 歡文學、研究電影、關注公共空間的人,可以 因應各自的興趣而在街道上得到趣味。

「現在令我最開心的是百花齊放,共同點可能 是──地方。不同人與地方建立關係的方法都不 一樣,我這種可能比較玩味,有些人講懷舊或 消失的事物,有些人講電影中的香港,我們似 乎在說着很不同的事,但連繫着我們的是,與 地方建立的緊密關係。」

行得多睇得多,有些事物似是尋常,然而換個 日子轉個時間,風景變了又變。這是香港的 獨特之處,人口密度高,街上刺激感官的事 物多,偶發狀況也特別多,散步路上不會悶。

「這是香港的城市特質,就像有些地方學車特 別易,香港的特質就是學散步都特別易,刺 激、好玩、好睇的東西特別多。」舊區固然有 各種吸引眼球的事物,但新市鎮也不無聊,無 街之城將軍澳、沿河畔而立的沙田,生活居所 與公共空間的設計已罄竹難書。「如果你有敏 感度,在許多區都可以找到不同的事物,舊區 因為發展歷程較久,所以事物的種類會多,新 市鎮的規劃本身沒有很多元,但從觀察的角度 來說,在將軍澳的商場也可以見到許多古怪的 東西。」散步有得「學」嗎?《香港散步學》

沒有給 予 明確答案,但 黃宇軒 相信只要踏出第

一步,「拋個身出去行」,必然有所收穫。

經年累月,散步慢慢入屋,黃宇軒說始料不 及,但將平常的事變成潮流,向來是他的心 願,「搞了十幾年,往往是關心這些事的人會 參與,如果可以變成潮流,像好青年荼毒室, 講哲學講到大家都關心就好。」近月他策劃 了不少散步活動,每次都讓他感動滿滿,因為 遇上熱心交流的參加者,而且他發現只要肯花 時間,真的可以在行路這件事上獲得巨大的樂 趣。「我很想推廣一些大家都可以在生活中得 到樂趣的事,因為這時這刻很多人都諗點樣可 以生活得快樂一點,而我覺得散步是一件頗治 癒的事 。」

Curiosity and associative thinking

Hong Kong Strollology has been a bestseller since its publication. There are all kinds of walking tours and curiosity about strollology. Japan has long had discussions about walking: rojou kansatsu gaku (street observation study), which involves investigating and recording whatever sparks one’s curiosity and interest along the way and opening up thinking. The book, Look Here: On the Pleasures of Observing the City, published last year in the UK, discusses exactly what its subtitle says.

Sampson shares a similar view. He uses all his senses on his walks, and through sharing with others, he’s developed his ways of observation. Curiosity and associative thinking are key. ‘I like

to look at everything, talk about whatever I see, and keep it open, whereas some people approach walking with more focus and a clear idea of what they want from the streets.’ There are no mustsees. You can just follow your interests.

‘What makes me happiest now is the diversity. Different people build relationships with a place in different ways. I may be more playful, some people may care more about nostalgia, and some others may be interested in the Hong Kong depicted in films. It may seem as if we’re talking about different things, but what connects us is the strong relationship we have built with the place.’

The more you walk, the more you see. Choose a different day or time and you’ll discover changes in the scenery. This is a unique feature of Hong Kong, with its high population density and its abundance of things and happenings that stimulate your senses. Walking doesn’t get boring. ‘This is a characteristic of Hong Kong. Just as it’s easy to learn to drive in some places, it’s easy to learn to walk for pleasure in Hong Kong. There’s just so much here that’s exciting, fun, and interesting.’ That’s true not just for old districts, but also for new towns like the streetless Tseung Kwan O and the riverside Sha Tin. There’s plenty to say about the design and distribution of housing and public spaces. ‘If you’re tuned in, you can find a lot of things in many places. Older districts, with their long history, contain a lot of variety. New towns may not have as much to offer, but in terms of observations, you can still find many weird things in a Tseung Kwan O shopping mall.’ Can you learn how to take a

stroll? Hong Kong Strollology does not offer a definite answer, but Sampson believe that if you get out there and take the first step, you’ll be rewarded.

Sampson didn’t expect walking for pleasure to gain popularity, though it’s always been his wish for the ordinary to become trendy. ‘I’ve been doing this for more than 10 years. Participants are often those who already have an interest in this. I’d love for it to become popular, like how Corrupt the Youth has got more people to care about philosophy.’ Sampson has organised a number of walking activities in recent months, and he’s moved every time because of eager participants. He’s realised that as long as he is willing to put in the time, there’s really a lot of fun to be had from this endeavour. ‘I really want to promote something that everyone can find joy in, because right now, many people are pondering how to be happier, and I think walking is healing.’

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Hong Kong is especially great for walking

每時每地都有不同的故事發生,你在社

區裏有哪些經歷和回憶?步行徑現正收

集九龍城區的故事,不論是關於舊區變 遷、街坊鄰里,還是生活小事,都歡迎 投稿與我們分享。

Different stories happen all the time everywhere. What are your experiences and memories in the community? We are now collecting stories of the Kowloon City District, whether it is about the changes in the old district, the neighbourhood, or the little things of life, you are welcome to contribute and share with us.

Reader Contribution

隨心施施而行,必然有所收穫。

兩個月前的某個星期六黃昏,當晚陪伴家人到紅館, 為的是一起觀賞羅文20周年紀念演唱會。我比家人 提早到達,於是在附近的機利士南路、蕪湖街一帶 閒逛。

蕪湖街裏面的觀音街,名符其實,觀音廟屹立,即使 門可羅雀,廟內外還是縈繞着供奉神靈的香霧。附近 的街坊小店依舊,香燭店、小食店、夜冷店……對鄰 是一幢新式迷你住宅。

橫過蕪湖街的斑馬線,穿過油站,便是機利士南路。

此路我不只一次行經,猶記得上一次行經之時,街上 舊樓舊舖早已人去樓空。料不到這次到訪,竟成了一 橫排、被綠色巨網包裹着的棚架,估計又是密質質的 「豪華劏房」住宅吧!此路唯一不變的,是位於對面 長生店林立的「大酒店」。它們均一一倖免,不用被 迫搬遷。 / 文 Text:莫家寶

Leisurely strolls can be so rewarding.

Two months ago, I went to the Hong Kong Coliseum to see the Roman Tam 20th Anniversary Memorial Concert with my family. I’d arrived earlier than my family and so decided to wander around the nearby Gillies Avenue South and Wuhu Street.

Off Wuhu Street is Kun Yam Street, where you’ll find the Kwun Yum Temple abounded with burned incense. The shops nearby are still the same: incense and candle shops, snack shops, secondhand shops, etc. Across from them is a block of modern mini-flats.

Past the zebra crossing on Wuhu Street and through the petrol station is Gillies Avenue South. Last time I was here, the old buildings and shops were already empty, and now they have turned into a row of scaffolding wrapped in a giant green net. I’m guessing they’ll become ‘luxury subdivided units’ in the future! What’s remained unchanged are the funeral parlours, all spared from forced relocation.

/

Finding Joy in Housing Estates

屋邨生活讓人又愛又恨,是個充滿回憶的地方。九龍城區 有10條公共屋邨,最早的屋邨可以追溯至1960年代,最 新的屋邨僅10年樓齡,前後相距足足50年。半個世紀以 來,屋邨設計、公共空間、生活配套、遊樂設施等,以至 居於其中的人和周邊的景物,都已然不一。下期季刊,一 起聊聊那些年的屋邨生活,亦歡迎大家投稿分享你的屋邨 經歷。

There is so much to love and hate about living in a housing estate, so many memories involved. Of the 10 public housing estates in the Kowloon City district, the oldest can be traced back to the 1960s, while the newest is only 10 years old. The past half a century has seen various changes not only in the estates’ design, public spaces, daily necessities, and recreational facilities, but also in terms of their residents and their surroundings. In our next issue, we’ll explore housing estate life. Please write to us and share your experiences.

下期預告 Next Issue

屋邨 尋樂

立即投稿

Submit Now!

投稿一經採用, 將獲薄酬。

Once your article is accepted, a gift voucher will be given.

/17

活動回顧 Programme Review

冬日 漫遊 社區

認識城市最好的方法,便是腳踏實地多走幾趟。

這個冬天,步行徑舉辦了多場社區導賞,經典路 線如九龍城史蹟遊、土瓜灣歷史文化導賞團、紅 磡文化傳承導賞團等,是認識九龍城、土瓜灣及

紅磡的入門之選。社區面貌千變萬化,團隊亦不 斷推出新路線,以建築、生態作切入點,從另一 個角度認識我們生活的地方。

土瓜灣馬頭圍道以西,向來是個安靜的社區,有 公務員宿舍林立的美善同道,農圃道與天光道更

Winter

是學校集中地,這一帶的建築兼具歷史與美學, 「不一樣的土瓜灣:書香雅境美善同」與大家一 同走過這個書香之地。九龍城好多人都去過,但 有沒有想過,這裏有不少生態資源。「城中鳥: 九龍城觀鳥體驗團」帶大家尋找市區常見雀鳥, 觀察牠們的形態與生活。 初夏將至,更多導賞路線即將推出,喜愛漫遊城 市的你可不要錯過。

Wandering

The best way to get to know the city is to walk around more. The Walking Trail has held a number of community guided tours last winter. Classic routes such as the Kowloon City Historical Tour, the To Kwa Wan Historical and Cultural Guided Tour, and the Hung Hom Cultural Heritage Guided Tour are all great introductions to their respective areas. New routes are constantly being added too, including ones that help us explore the places we live through the lens of architecture and ecology.

The west of Ma Tau Wai Road in To Kwa Wan has always been a quiet community. There’s

Maidstone Road with its many civil servants’ quarters. There are Farm Road and Tin Kwong Road with their many schools. Our guided tour, A Different To Kwa Wan: Scholarly Maidstone, walks you through the history and beauty imbued in the buildings in this area. Many people have been to Kowloon City, but how many have thought about its ecological resources? Birds in the ‘City’: To Kwa Wan Bird Watching Tour takes you on a search for birds commonly seen in urban areas.

Summer is almost here, and so are more guided tours. Don’t miss out!

Focus Programme

「聲音故事:迴.眸寨城」展覽

步行徑於去年舉辦「迴.眸寨城」活動,透 過資料搜集、實地考察、分享及訪問,與參 加者深度發掘九龍寨城,一同創作十個故事 文本,並製作成聲音故事,於步行徑路段一 的硬件設施中展示。史書以外,九龍寨城尚 有許多有趣的面向及故事,大家現可於躍 變.龍城體驗館「聲音故事:迴.眸寨城」 展覽了解更多。

Kowloon Walled City used to be the most densely populated place in the world. It was notorious for its governance without government, also known as “City of Darkness”. It was converted to a park after demolition in 1993 but a few historical relics were preserved. Kowloon Walled City was not only a place with rich historical values, but also a place of collective memories

Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail held an activity called “Immersion in Old Kowloon Walled City” last year. Through data research, field studies, sharings and interviews, participants were able to familiarise with Kowloon Walled City in depth, they created ten articles together which will be presented in audios and shown in the hardware facilities in Route 1 of the Walking Trails. Apart from historical records, there are more interesting stories about Kowloon Walled City beyond your imagination waiting for you to discover. Let’s listen to the sound stories through the exhibition in Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre for more details.

2023 14.03 | 31.05 焦點活動
“Sound Stories: Immersion in Old Kowloon Walled City” Exhibition /19
九龍寨城曾經是世上人口密度最高的地方, 有「三不管」、「黑暗之城」等稱號,予人 灰暗且神秘。寨城於1993年清拆後改建成公 園,尚有一些遺跡被保留至今。這個地方除 了有珍貴的人文歷史價值外,亦盛載了無數 居民的生活軼事,是一代人的集體回憶。

Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre: Shop No.5, Ground Floor, Wan Tung Building, No. 115 Tam Kung Road, Kowloon

Kowloon City Walking Trail

Kowloon.City.Walking.Trail

電話 Tel:3183 0928

電郵 Email:kctwt@skhwc.org.hk

躍變.龍城體驗館:九龍譚公道115號運通大廈地下5號舖

九龍城主題步行徑辦公室:九龍馬頭涌真善美村低座一樓 Office:1/F, Lower Block, Chun Seen Mei Chuen, Ma Tau Chung, Kow loon

All activities are free to join! For more details, please stay tuned to our Facebook page.

*Parent-children session.

Location: Kowloon City in Transformation Information Centre

Session F|23 Apr (Sun) 11:00-13:00*

Session E|19 Apr (Wed) 15:00-17:00

Session D|15 Apr (Sat) 11:00-13:00

Session C|31 Mar (Fri) 15:00-17:00

Session B|26 Mar (Sun) 15:00-17:00

Date&Time: Session A|26 Mar (Sun) 11:00-13:00*

a unique wooden boat.

after reclamation. Let’s read the story of Hoi Sham and DIY

Island. However, the little island has transformed into a park

Local residents used to spend a day having fun in Hoi Sham

DIY Workshop

Roving in Hoi Sham: Wooden Boat

地點: 躍變.龍城體驗館

F班|4月23日(日)11:00-13:00*

E班|4月19日(三)15:00-17:00

D班|4月15日(六)11:00-13:00

C班|3月31日(五)15:00-17:00

B班|3月26日(日)15:00-17:00

A班|3月26日(日)11:00-13:00*

日期及時間:

海心島是土瓜灣一座已消失的島嶼,是當年居民休憩玩樂 的好去處,後來小島在填海工程後改建為海心公園。是 次工作坊將與大家一同DIY木藝小船裝置,細聽海心島的 故事。

漂游海心:木藝小船裝置DIY工作坊

其他精彩活動

Programme Recommendation

Target: Aged 12 and above

Location: Kowloon City in Transformation

Information Centre

Session D|13 Apr (Thu) 15:00-17:30

Session C|7 Apr (Fri) 15:00-17:30

Session B|7 Apr (Fri) 10:30-13:00

Session A|2 Apr (Sun) 15:00-17:30

Date & Time:

celebration of Thai.

to share the joy of wreath making and enjoy a new year

start of Songkran Festival, we organise a wreath workshop

also indispensable in any traditional celebrations. Before the

Wearing a wreath is a traditional act for Thai people and it is

Thai-Teochew

Classroom: Thai Wreath

Tutor: Ms Chio Hio Tong

Location: To Kwa Wan

Night|13 Apr 2023 (Thu) 19:00-21:30

Date & Time: Day|8 Apr 2023 (Sat) 15:00-17:30

Wan so that we can get inspiration for creative writing.

local authors while hanging around the streets in To Kwa

between day and night. Let’s look into articles written by

To Kwa Wan is a lively community with different atmosphere

Exploring To Kwa Wan through Literature

地點:

12歲或以上人士

躍變.龍城體驗館 對象:

D班|4月13日(四)15:00-17:30

C班|4月7日(五)15:00-17:30

B班|4月7日(五)10:30-13:00

A班|4月2日(日)15:00-17:30

日期及時間:

的新年。

典上不可或缺。泰國潑水節前夕,步行徑特意準備了花環 工作坊,與大家體驗花環編織的樂趣,感受不「泰」一樣

佩戴花環是泰國人的習俗,而且花環用途廣泛,在傳統慶

泰潮學堂:泰式花環工作坊

導師:

趙曉彤小姐

地點:

土瓜灣

夜場|4月13日(四)19:00-21:30

晝場|4月8日(六)15:00-17:30

日期及時間:

圍,讓我們從文學出發,與大家漫步土瓜灣,一邊閱讀文 學作品,一邊觀察社區,尋找書寫靈感。

土瓜灣是個熱鬧的社區,白天與晚上有着截然不同的氛

土瓜灣文學散步

所有活動免費參加!更多活動及報名詳情,請留意Facebook專頁。
*此為親子班。

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