Fine Cooking - Nov/Dec 2020

Get Started with Sourdough | Dig into Root Vegetables | Pure Maple Desserts

I N S P I R AT I O N F O R P A S S I O N AT E C O O K S

50+ Recipes for

®

Celebrating the Season

Eggnog Baked Alaska p. 24

NOV/DEC 2020 • No.167 www.finecooking.com

Caramelized Shallot & Prosciutto Flatbread

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Recipe by Gallery Media Group, Food Styling by Katie Wayne Serves: 2 people Difficulty: Easy Prep: 10 minutes Cook: 30 minutes Total: 40 minutes Ingredients 2 flatbread or naan, homemade or store-bought 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided Salt and pepper 1 garlic clove, grated 8 pieces of prosciutto, chopped 3 medium shallots, sliced thinly 1 box Boursin® Garlic & Fine Herbs Cheese 1 tablespoon chives, chopped 1 tablespoon Hot honey, or honey and ¼ tsp chili flakes (optional, for drizzling) 1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Place each flatbread or naan on a piece of foil large enough to wrap entirely. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and grated garlic. Brush to disperse.

Wrap in foil and set aside.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped prosciutto and cook until crisp. Remove prosciutto from heat and set aside. Place wrapped flatbread in pre-heated oven for 15 minutes.

After that time, open the foil to let the flatbread crisp slightly, 5 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, add shallots to the pan and one more tablespoon olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.

Reduce heat medium-low and cook for approximately 20 minutes, or until browned and softened. Remove from heat.

4. To assemble, sprinkle flatbreads with Boursin® Garlic & Fine Herbs Cheese, and then spread into a thin, even layer. Top with crispy prosciutto and dollop with caramelized shallots.

Finish with flaky salt, pepper, chives, honey, and a sprinkling of Boursin® Cheese.

Celebrate with Simple, Yet Seasonal Spreads Welcome close friends and family into your home to celebrate the season together. Boursin® Cheese can help you host with ease, including delicious recipes and entertaining ideas that are simple, yet elevated.

SEASONAL ESSENCE Add natural elements to table décor to help bring shades of the season inside, such as a simple pine bough centerpiece or holly leaf and berry clusters to accent place cards.

BEAUTIFUL BOUNTY Prepare our Caramelized Shallot & Prosciutto Flatbread recipe and plate on a natural wood cutting board. Accent with edible herbs that resemble holiday greens, like fresh rosemary or thyme sprigs.

MERRY MEMORIES Send guests home with a memento of your time together, such as a personalized ornament or picture frame. Take photos during the evening with an instant print camera and add them to the gifts for a truly custom souvenir.

For more Boursin® Cheese recipe inspiration, scan this code with your smartphone!

N OT E F R O M T H E E D I TO R S

The Importance of Gathering The holiday season—the weeks from Thanksgiving in late November to New Year’s—is defined by many things, but the common thread that runs through these days is that it is a time of gathering. The question has to be asked, though: During this period of heightened caution due to COVID-19, what does “gathering” look like?

It is different for everyone and every personal situation, to be sure, but we have not given up on the idea of getting together with loved ones—even if that means hosting a virtual cocktail party with friends, simultaneously sitting down to a turkey dinner over Zoom with your family in the next state, or sharing a casual Sunday supper with your social “pod” to catch up and maybe commiserate a bit.

This issue offers recipes for all of those situations and more. Pick a turkey for your Thanksgiving spread (p. 29), from a traditional ciderbrined bird to a quick-cooking adobo-marinated spatchcocked one to miso-glazed breasts for the white-meat lovers. Take a deep and delicious dive into the world of underappreciated root vegetables (p. 48), or simmer a pot of savory pork stew (p. 56) to share with just a few friends.

A classic Christmas menu (p. 22) provides a touch of comfort and familiarity when so many things seem strange and hard. Gather your own thoughts in the meditative process of making sourdough focaccia (p. 40), or raise a glass (p. 26) and toast to better days.

This holiday season may not look the same as it did last year or the many, many years before that, but all is not lost. We will find new ways to connect with others, to hold each other up, and yes, even celebrate.

Gathering is an antidote to the harshness of the world—a reminder that what is truly important never changes, no matter how much everything around us seems to be in flux.

The Editors

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Lisa Kingsley DESIGN DIRECTOR Tempy Segrest PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Paden Reich ART DIRECTOR Emily Johnson OPERATIONS EDITOR Diane Rose Keener CONTRIBUTING COPY EDITOR Carrie Truesdell CONTRIBUTING PROOFREADER Michael Olivo CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER Ken Carlson, Waterbury Publications, Inc. CONTRIBUTING FOOD STYLIST Jennifer Peterson ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Renae Mabie

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER Mark Josephson mark.josephson@meredith.com

MEREDITH NATIONAL MEDIA GROUP PRESIDENT, MEREDITH MAGAZINES Doug Olson PRESIDENT, CONSUMER PRODUCTS Tom Witschi PRESIDENT, CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER Catherine Levene CHIEF BUSINESS & DATA OFFICER Alysia Borsa CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER Michael Brownstein MARKETING & INTEGRATED COMMUNICATIONS Nancy Weber SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS CONSUMER REVENUE Andy Wilson CORPORATE SALES Brian Kightlinger DIRECT MEDIA Patti Follo RESEARCH SOLUTIONS Britta Cleveland STRATEGIC SOURCING, NEWSSTAND, PRODUCTION Chuck Howell DIGITAL SALES Marla Newman THE FOUNDRY Matt Petersen PRODUCT & TECHNOLOGY Justin Law VICE PRESIDENTS FINANCE Chris Susil BUSINESS PLANNING & ANALYSIS Rob Silverstone CONSUMER MARKETING Steve Crowe BRAND LICENSING Toye Cody, Sondra Newkirk CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS Jill Davison VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Stephen Orr DIRECTOR, EDITORIAL OPERATIONS & FINANCE Greg Kayko

Looking for a classic main course for Christmas dinner? This Fruit-Stuffed Pork Roast (p. 23) features a spiraled filling of dried apricots, cranberries, and golden raisins and a side of roasted onions and apples.

MEREDITH CORPORATION PRESIDENT & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Harty CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Jason Frierott CHIEF DEVELOPMENT OFFICER John Zieser CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER Daphne Kwon PRESIDENT, MEREDITH LOCAL MEDIA GROUP Patrick McCreery SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Dina Nathanson CHAIRMAN Stephen M. Lacy VICE CHAIRMAN Mell Meredith Frazier

Copyright © 2020 Meredith Corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review.

For syndication or international licensing requests or reprint and reuse permission, email syndication@meredith.com.

2

FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

Architect. Mentor. Beekeeper.

A life well planned allows you to

While you may not be running an architectural firm, tending hives of honeybees and mentoring a teenager — your life is just as unique. Backed by sophisticated resources and a team of specialists in every field, a Raymond James financial advisor can help you plan for the dreams you have, the way you care for those you love and how you choose to give back. So you can live your life.

© 2020 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James Financial Services, Inc., member FINRA/SIPC. Raymond James® and LIFE WELL PLANNED® are registered trademarks of Raymond James Financial, Inc.

Contents n o v e m b e r /d e c e m b e r 2 0 2 0

|

issue 167

features

29 Turkey by the Clock Pick a holiday bird based on the time you have and the crowd you’re cooking for.

By Liz Pearson

34 Harvest Salads Gorgeous fall salads exemplify the freshness and seasonality of the menu at Washington, D.C.’s, beloved eatery, RIS.

By Ris Lacoste

40 Success with Sourdough Learn to make tangy, chewy, tuggy breads with wild yeast.

By Caroline Schiff

48 The Root of the Matter Roasted to caramelized perfection or used raw in a crunchy salad, root vegetables take a star turn this season.

By Diane Morgan

52 All Hail the Hasselback Make holiday guests swoon with these ethereal Swedish fanned potatoes.

By Lisa Kingsley

56 Savory Pork Stews Warm up with a hearty pot of stew—choose from a diverse array of flavor profiles.

By Tony Rosenfeld

62 Bread Pudding for Supper

Caption tk

Roasted Pollo Asado-Style Spatchcock Turkey, p. 33

Create a comfort-food dish that suits your mood with this customizable recipe.

By Susie Middleton

66 Maple Endings Desserts that showcase one of nature’s most perfect sweeteners.

By Ken Haedrich

4

FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

25 8 11

18

76 28

in every issue

departments

8 In Season Pomegranates BOOKS THAT COOK

10 The Reading List New and noteworthy additions to your bookshelf or your gift list this holiday season.

GREAT FINDS

11 Gifts for the Cook Seasonal kitchen picks for giving—or for yourself.

12 Make It Tonight Fresh and easy cooking for a busy holiday season, including Chicken with Escarole and Warm Mustard Dressing, Savory Chard Pie, and Arctic Char with Green Olive and Lemon Dressing.

ON THE MENU

22 Classic Christmas Something new, with a touch of comforting familiarity.

2 6 79 80

EDITOR’S NOTE CONTRIBUTORS NUTRITION RECIPE INDEX

DRINKS

26 Cheers!

Festive drinks both spirited and alcohol-free—plus a few simple snacks—set a merry mood.

74 Test Kitchen Tips, techniques, equipment, ingredients, and more, from our experts.

C o v e r p h o t o g r a p h b y Ke n C a r l s o n , Wa t e r b u r y P u b l i c a t i o n s ; fo o d s t y l i n g b y J e n n i fe r P e t e r s o n

p. 40

p. 48

p. 66

Get Started with Sourdough | Dig into Root Vegetables | Pure Maple Desserts

I N S P I R AT I O N F O R P A S S I O N AT E C O O K S

50+ Recipes for

®

Celebrating the Season

Eggnog Baked Alaska

p. 24

p. 24

NOV/DEC 2020 • No.167 www.finecooking.com

5

Contributors Liz Pearson

(“Turkey by the Clock,” p. 29) is a food writer, recipe developer, food stylist, and former NYC test kitchen director now based out of her home state of Texas.

• My favorite Thanksgiving sides are … my mother’s cheddar carrots and the precious, rich stuffing cooked inside the bird.

• My favorite cold-weather meal is … a deep bowl of my mother- and father-in-law’s braised chicken in pipián, a silky, roasted pumpkin seed mole, served with blistered corn tortillas.

Diane Morgan

(“The Root of the Matter,” p. 48) is the James Beard Award-winning cookbook author of Roots: The Definitive Compendium with More Than 225 Recipes.

In fall, I look forward to eating … celery root in all its delicious ways—as a soup, gratin, and purée.

• My favorite childhood meal was … my mother’s Chicken Paprikash.

• The ingredient I can’t live without is … sourdough starter for baking breads, grissini, and waffles.

Tony Rosenfeld

(“Savory Pork Stews,” p. 56) is the co-founder of One Mighty Mill in Lynn, Massachusetts, and author of the book, Sear, Sauce & Serve.

• My food philosophy is … less is more.

Source well, season generously, and then stay out of the way.

• When I have an open weekend, I

Ris Lacoste

(“Harvest Salads,” p. 34) is chef-owner of the Washington, D.C., bistro RIS, where the James Beard-nominated chef innovates and serves fresh seasonal and regional American fare.

One of my fondest food memories is … we always had baked beans on Saturday—an old New England tradition. My mother’s beans were the best! But leftovers on Sunday morning were almost better. If we didn’t go for honey dip donuts in the church basement or griddled English muffins and coffee milk at Mickey’s Grill, mother made scrambled eggs cooked in bacon fat with baked beans and toast. Heaven!

• Every serious home cook should

fire. I could truly do it all day and never get over it.

• The best butter for slathering

greens for a great salad, and make a basic vinaigrette.

on warm sourdough is … Le Beurre Bordier—one of my most favorite French butters. Give me a kilo and leave me be.

Ken Haedrich

(“Maple Endings,” p. 66) is a past recipient of the Julia Child Cookbook Award, the author of 17 cookbooks and hundreds of magazine articles, and the creator of several online pie making courses. He’s the founder of the popular pie website ThePieAcademy.com, and he holds in-person Pie Getaways every fall in Charleston, South Carolina, and Woodstock, Vermont. His latest book is Pie Academy (Storey Publishing), released in October 2020.

• My favorite kitchen tool for baking is … my screened mesh flour shaker from Pampered Chef. Everyone tries to steal it at our Pie Getaways.

• When I’m not baking or writing …

I cook a lot of really healthy meals. Man can’t live by pie alone.

• My most long-standing holiday food

heirloom beans, braised meat, and quickpickled chiles. Then I park myself on the couch and watch whatever is on for sports.

tradition is … making individual pot pies

FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

(“Success with Sourdough, p. 40) is currently the head pastry chef at Gage & Tollner in Brooklyn, New York. She has been heralded as one of the “Most Badass Female Chefs in New York”

by Thrillist.

• I decided to attempt sourdough when … we knew we wanted to do a few in-house breads at Gage & Tollner. I had been a little scared of sourdough and “stayed in my lane,” so to speak, but once I learned the basics I got REALLY into it.

• My favorite non-pastry/non-bread thing to cook is … vegetables over an open

know how to … make a great soup, hydrate

make … really good nachos: slow-simmered

6

Caroline Schiff

from Thanksgiving leftovers. Nice way to stretch out the holiday.

Susie Middleton

(“Bread Pudding for Supper,” p. 62) is the former editor of Fine Cooking and author of four vegetableinspired cookbooks, including her latest, Simple Green Suppers. She’s the editor of CookTheVineyard.com and the special projects editor for The Vineyard Gazette Media Group on Martha’s Vineyard, where she lives.

• On a snowy day I like to make … anything I can fit in my giant Le Creuset braising pot, but especially pot-roasted butterflied chicken with baby potatoes, rosemary, garlic, and lemons.

• The best side to a savory bread pudding is … a bright winter salad, like a colorful combination of radicchio, endive, arugula, blood oranges or regular oranges, quick-roasted beet slices, toasted walnuts, and a citrus-shallot vinaigrette.

• My latest kitchen purchase was … a fermentation crock to make kimchi.

Leave 2020 and eggnog behind.

Try Coquito.

GOYA® Coconut Milk.

Real coconut flavor for Real-Life Chefs.

Coquito Ingredients: 1 can (13.5 oz.) GOYA® Coconut Milk 1 can (15 oz.) GOYA® Cream of Coconut 2 cans (12 oz. each) GOYA® Evaporated Milk ½ cup GOYA® Sweetened Condensed Milk ½ cup white rum (optional) 1 tsp. vanilla extract ½ tsp. ground cinnamon cinnamon sticks (optional)

For step-by-step instructions, visit goya.com/coquito

Celebrate the season with Coquito, a rich and creamy Puerto Rican drink easily made with GOYA® Coconut Milk and GOYA® Cream of Coconut. It’s a tropical way to holiday.

©2020 Goya Foods, Inc.

In Season Now is the time to enjoy that brief window when pomegranates brighten the produce aisle with their brilliant red color and juicy, sweet-tart flavor.

Starting at the end of September and often into January, these globeshaped crimson fruits create colorful mounds in supermarkets. Native to Iran and northern India, the fruit was adapted and cultivated all over the Mediterranean for thousands of years.

Today, most of the pomegranates produced in the United States are grown in California and Arizona, as they thrive in a semi-arid climate with cool winters and hot, dry (not humid) summers. This regal fruit, with its leathery red skin and miniature crown, is a complex one. It houses hundreds of arils (small seeds)— as many as 800 per fruit—encased in juicy, brilliant red pulp separated into clusters by a bitter cream-colored membrane. Rich in antioxidants and vitamin C, they deliver good health and cheer this season. It takes a bit of time to get at them, but it’s well worth the effort.

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FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

FROM LEFT: CHRIS CLOR/GETTY IMAGES; JACK ANDERSEN/GETTY IMAGGES

Pomegranates

shop »

prep »

Choose heavy, plump and rounded fruits with bright, blemishfree skins. (Their heft indicates a large number of seeds and retention of moisture—older fruits begin to shrink as they dry out). Although there are several different varieties of pomegranate produced for market that range in size and balance of sweet to tart flavor, they are not usually identified.

Using a sharp knife, cut the fruit vertically in half. Using your hands, gently break the halves into smaller sections. The vivid-red juice can stain, so clean the work surface immediately with warm, soapy water. Consider wearing an apron or work shirt, as the seeds can be messy. Place the pomegranate sections in a bowl of water.

Using your fingers, gently loosen the seeds form each section into the water. The seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl. Discard the peel and membrane that will be left floating on top. Pour the water and pomegranate seeds through a sieve to catch the seeds.

One medium pomegranate yields about ½ cup seeds. Use the seeds in desserts, salads, beverages, and more.

store » Store whole fruits in a cool, dark place for up to 1 month or in the refrigerator for up to 2 months. Store seeds in a covered container in the refrigerator for several days, or freeze them in a sealed freezer container for up to 1 year.

make » Spiced Pomegranate-Honey Shrub In a 3½- to 4-qt. slow cooker, combine the seeds and juice from 4 pomegranates (see above for prep), eight 2-inch strips of zest cut from 2 lemons and their juice, 1½ cups red wine vinegar, 1 cup honey, ½ cup sugar, and 2 cinnamon sticks. Mash the seeds slightly with a potato masher. Cover and cook on low for 4 hours. Remove crock from cooker, if possible. Let stand, uncovered, for 1 hour. Press mixture through a fine-mesh sieve and discard solids. Cover and chill syrup for 4 to 24 hours. To serve, pour 3 Tbs. syrup into an ice-filled rocks glass. Slowly add 1 3 cup chilled club soda. If desired, add 2 Tbs. brandy. Stir gently. Top with fresh pomegranate seeds.

Pomegranate-Glazed Sweet Potatoes

Pomegranate, Cranberry, and Brie Bruschetta

Boil 3 spiralized medium sweet potatoes in lightly salted water for 2 minutes; drain. In the same pot, combine 1 3 cup pomegranate juice, 1 3 cup honey, 3 Tbs. butter, ½ tsp. salt, ½ tsp. ground cardamom, and ¼ tsp. pepper, and bring to a boil.

Simmer, uncovered, until thickened and of a glaze consistency, 5 minutes. Add sweet potatoes and gently toss to glaze. Remove from heat and stir in chopped fresh parsley and mint. Transfer to a serving dish. Top with pomegranate seeds.

Combine ¾ cup pomegranate seeds, ½ cup chopped fresh cranberries, 2 Tbs. sugar, and 1 tsp. orange zest. Brush 16 baguette slices with olive oil and sprinkle with pepper. Bake at 350°F until crisp, turning once, 8 minutes. Top each slice with a slice of log Brie cheese. Bake until softened, 4 minutes. Stir chopped fresh basil into pomegranate mixture and spoon on top of bruschetta.

Macerated Grapefruit with Pistachios and Pomegranate

Bring ¾ cup pomegranate juice to a boil.

Reduce to ¼ cup, 5 to 8 minutes. Cook 1 lb. chicken tenderloins in olive oil until no longer pink; remove from pan and keep warm. Cook wedges cut from half of a medium red onion in olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper just until onion is tender. Stir in reduced pomegranate juice and 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar. Boil for 1 minute; remove from heat. Stir in snipped fresh oregano. Gradually add two 6-oz. pkg. baby spinach to the pan, tossing just until wilted. Transfer to a serving platter.

Top with chicken, pomegranate seeds, and toasted slivered almonds.

Combine ½ cup unsweetened pink grapefruit juice, ¼ cup honey, and ½ tsp. ground coriander. Remove skin and membrane from 4 grapefruits and slice into ¼-inch-thick rounds. Place in a large widemouth jar and cover with grapefruit juice mixture. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour or up to 5 days. To serve, divide among shallow bowls; pour liquid over slices. Top with coarsely chopped pistachios and pomegranate seeds.

Wilted Chicken Salad with Pomegranate Dressing

Orange and Pomegranate Overnight Oats In a medium bowl, stir together 2 cups rolled oats, 1 cup milk, 1 cup apple juice, ½ cup pomegranate seeds, and 1 tsp. each orange zest and ground cinnamon.

Divide among four half-pint jars with lids.

Cover and chill at least 6 hours and up to 24 hours. Top with plain yogurt and additional pomegranate seeds.

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The Reading List New and noteworthy additions for your bookshelf or gift-giving this holiday season

BY LISA KINGSLEY

The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food

by Marcus Samuelsson (Voracious; $38.00)

Chef Marcus Samulesson’s latest book, The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food, celebrates the contributions of Black cooks from America and far beyond, all relating in some way to the African diaspora.

The book is structured not by course or type of food but by exploration of a theme.

“Next,” takes a look at where Black food is headed— chefs on the cutting edge.

“Legacy” takes a look at “Old and new journeys from Africa to the Americas and stories of Black figures in food reclaiming their history.”

Recipes are presented in clusters in honor of a Black chef who inspired Samuelsson to create them.

A profile of the honored chef precedes each set of recipes.

Samuelsson sets down three pillars on which

10

The Rise stands: “Authorship of our food and rituals. Memory of history, where we started and where we’ve gone.” And “Aspiration for the future.”

“This is a cookbook about race, class, and the equity of the American food landscape. This is also an opportunity to eat deliciously. To learn and inspire yourself and others. To come together at one table to raise each other up,” Samuelsson writes.

“Let’s cook, let’s eat, let’s Rise.”

Bread Therapy: The Mindful Art of Baking Bread

by Pauline Beaumont (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; $19.99)

There is perhaps no culinary activity more suited to these times than baking bread.

Although the view taken

by UK author Pauline Beaumont in Bread Therapy:

FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

The Mindful Art of Baking Bread, is that it is always a soul-feeding endeavor, it seems particularly important in the face of unprecedented stressors to find things that give us comfort, peace, and a faith in our own ability to soothe and grow our collective spirits.

Bread Therapy is a breadbaking book written by a trained therapist, and it shows. The text is a running narrative about the benefits and virtues of bread-baking for our bodies, souls, families, and communities structured around seven chapters interspersed with a handful of recipes and some valuable information about ingredients and technique.

Beaumont writes that there is no escaping from stress for any of us—it is inherent to being human—but that there are ways we can grow our resiliency and cope better with inevitable challenges.

Mindfulness, which she defines as “paying more attention to the present, to the moment we are in now,” can help us connect with our bodies and physical nature and senses, which takes the attention away from the chaos and anxiety of “our rushing thoughts.”

The message, boiled down to its essence, is this: Bake bread, it will make you feel better. And that, especially these days, is something we can all embrace.

The Best American Food Writing 2020 Edited by J. Kenji López-Alt (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; $16.99)

Although not exclusively, most of the 24 articles and essays in The Best American Food Writing 2020 explore the experience of people of color—chefs, food writers, diners, and more—in the world of American food.

It is a topic that has always been relevant, but recently, it is more pointedly so. These voices have always been there—it’s just that now, hopefully, they are being heard by more of us.

I have worked in food publishing for almost 30 years and, regrettably, have been ignorant of many of the contributions of people of color outside of high-profile Black chefs such as Edna Lewis and Leah Chase.

These perspectives are long overdue, and so welcome.

Great Finds

Gifts for the Cook Seasonal kitchen picks for giving—or for yourself

BY LISA KINGSLEY

Stir It Up A glint of light off these stainless steel bar tools from Old Dutch International adds to the anticipation and magic of a well-made cocktail. The 6-piece Diamond Bar Set includes an ice bucket, a bottle opener, a strainer, a double jigger, tongs, and a stirrer. Just add fresh ingredients, good spirits, and good friends. $62.99; createmyplace.com

Better Baking Vain vanilla is a premium extract for all of your holiday baked goods.

Original Baker’s Blend is an allpurpose vanilla. Mexican Vanilla features vanilla beans infused in Kentucky bourbon to create an extract with complex caramel and vanilla notes with a hint of smoke.

Original Baker’s Blend (8 oz.) $32.95; Mexican Vanilla (4 oz.) $16.95; createmyplace.com

Dazzle with a Drizzle Spurred by a move from New York to Los Angeles and the discovery that most olive oils are “rotten, rancid ... or adulterated,” Aishwarya Iyer left the tech industry to create Brightland, maker of olive oils pressed from heirloom Coratina and Frantoio olives harvested from a single family farm in California’s Central Coast and milled on-site using organic methods. “Awake” is ideal for pasta, roast chicken, and drizzling over crusty bread, while “Alive” is perfect for vinaigrettes, raw vegetables, and dark chocolate. Set includes one 12.7-oz. bottle of each. $74.00; brightland.co

PRODUCTS: COURTESY MANUFACTURERS

Proof Like a Pro Artisan bread bakers get perfectly shaped loaves by proofing the soft dough in a linen-lined basket, or banneton. The basket provides structure for the rising dough, which not only helps form its shape but also helps it retain the beautiful bubbles that are the hallmark of artisan loaves and end goal of every baker, no matter how experienced. Whether it’s you or someone you know who has recently hopped on the sourdough train, a Mrs. Anderson’s Bread Proofing Basket is a welcome addition to any baker’s tool kit. Round (9¼"x3¼") or Oval (9½"x6"’x3¼") $24.95; createmyplace.com

Grate Plate We love quality utilitarian tools, but if a gadget performs perfectly and is pretty to boot, more’s the better. Use the Grate Plate to grate garlic, ginger, nutmeg, chocolate, cinnamon, or hard cheeses. Grate and serve in the same dish. Handmade in Portland, Oregon, from dishwasher-safe stoneware. Choose from 13 colors. $29.99; createmyplace.com

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Make It

Tonight Fresh and easy cooking for a busy holiday season

WEEKNIGHT MEALS

« ROOT VEGETABLE AND POMEGRANATE COUSCOUS, P. 14 Pair With: Hefeweizen CHICKEN WITH ESCAROLE AND WARM MUSTARD DRESSING, P. 14 Pair With: Chardonnay HERB-RUBBED PORK WITH SQUASH AND GRAPES, P. 15 Pair With: Viognier BACON AND PEAR AUTUMN SALAD, P. 16 Pair With: Prosecco CREAMY PASTA WITH TURKEY AND CRISPY CRUMBS, P. 17 Pair With: Crisp Chardonnay SAVORY CHARD PIE, P. 18 Pair With: Beaujolais ARCTIC CHAR WITH GREEN OLIVE AND LEMON DRESSING, P. 18 Pair With: Pinot Grigio MOROCCAN BEEF AND PUMPKIN BAKE, P. 19 Pair With: Garnacha GOLDEN TURMERIC FISH, P. 20 Pair With: Riesling RED CURRY-LIME SWEET POTATO SOUP, P. 21 Pair With: Gewürztraminer

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FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

M A K E I T TO N I G H T

SEASONAL FAVORITE

root vegetable and pomegranate couscous Hearty root vegetables and winter squash stand in for meat in this vegan main dish. Serves 4 Kosher salt 1/2 tsp. ground cumin 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp. ground ginger 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 lb. root vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips, turnips, and/or winter squash, peeled and chopped or sliced 1/2 inch thick 1 large red onion, cut into 1-inch wedges 2 Tbs. olive oil 1 cup couscous 1/2 cup whole almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds Fresh mint or cilantro sprigs (optional) Orange wedges, for serving (optional)

Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a large heatproof bowl, combine 1 tsp. salt with the cumin, cinnamon, ginger, and pepper. Add the root vegetables and onion. Drizzle with the oil and toss to coat. Spread in a single layer in two shallow baking pans. Roast until tender, stirring once, 25 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in the same bowl, stir together the couscous, 1 cup boiling water, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or a lid and let stand 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork.

Serve the vegetables with couscous.

Garnish with the almonds, pomegranate seeds, and if desired, mint. Serve with the orange wedges, if using.

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FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

chicken with escarole and warm mustard dressing Escarole, a sturdy green with a slightly bitter but bright flavor, holds up to the warm mustard dressing. If you prefer, substitute romaine. Serves 4 1 12-oz. head escarole or curly endive, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces (4 cups) 1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed, halved, cored and thinly sliced 2 to 4 chicken breasts, halved horizontally and pounded to 1/8-inch thickness (1 lb. total) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup olive oil, divided 1 small shallot, finely chopped (2 Tbs.) 1 Tbs. white wine vinegar 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard

In a large bowl, combine the escarole and fennel; set aside. Season the chicken with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. In an extra-large skillet, heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil over mediumhigh heat. Add half of the chicken to

the skillet; cook 4 minutes or until browned and no longer pink, turning once. Transfer to a plate; cover with foil to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining chicken.

For the dressing, add the shallot to the same skillet; cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the vinegar; stir until evaporated, scraping up any browned bits. Pour 1/2 cup water into the skillet; cook, uncovered, 2 minutes or until reduced by about half. Remove from heat. Whisk in the mustard and the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil. Pour 3 Tbs. of the dressing over the escarole and fennel and toss lightly. Season with more salt and pepper.

Stir any juices from the chicken into the remaining dressing in the skillet.

Serve with chicken and escarole salad.

SHEET-PAN DINNER

herb-rubbed pork with squash and grapes Roasting grapes intensifes their sweet, wine-y flavor, a perfect pairing with the natural sweetness of pork.

Serves 4 2 tsp. dried herbs, such as thyme, oregano, basil, and/or rosemary 1/2 tsp. chili powder 2 cloves garlic, minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 1- to 11/2-lb. pork tenderloin 1/2 2-lb. butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut in 1- to 2-inch pieces 1/2 red onion, cut into wedges 2 Tbs. olive oil 1 cup seedless red grapes

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a 15x10-inch rimmed baking sheet with foil.

In a small bowl, combine the herbs, chili powder, garlic, and ¼ tsp. each salt and pepper. Rub all over the pork.

Place the pork on one side of the prepared pan. Add squash and onion on other side of pan; sprinkle with another ¼ tsp. each salt and pepper. Drizzle pork, squash, and onion with olive oil. Roast for 15 minutes. Stir the squash and onion; add the grapes. Roast 10 to 15 minutes more or until the pork registers 145°F on a meat thermometer. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

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M A K E I T TO N I G H T

SUPER SIMPLE

bacon and pear autumn salad To save time, look for precooked farro or whole-grain blend sold in pouches. If you can’t find those, cook up a batch on a weekend. Spread in a single layer to cool completely, then divide into 1- or 2-cup portions and freeze. Serves 6 8 slices smoked peppered bacon 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 shallots, thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar 6 cups torn fresh kale, Swiss chard, and/or beet greens 1 cup cooked, cooled grain, such as barley or farro 2 Bosc pears, cored and thinly sliced 4 oz. Gouda cheese, cubed

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In a large skillet, cook the bacon until crisp; transfer to paper towels to drain, reserving 1 Tbs. drippings in skillet. Add the olive oil to the skillet; add shallots and a pinch of salt. Cook over medium heat until shallots are soft and golden brown, stirring often, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the vinegar; remove from the heat. Scrape up browned bits from bottom of the skillet.

Place the greens in a large bowl; drizzle with the warm dressing then toss to coat.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cut bacon into 1-inch pieces. Add bacon, grain, and pears to greens, and toss to coat. Top with the cheese.

COMFORT FOOD

creamy pasta with turkey and crispy crumbs To make fresh bread crumbs, process slightly stale bread (crusts removed if bread is dense) in a food processor until the crumbs are the size you want. Serves 4 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, divided 3 cloves garlic, minced, divided 1/3 cup coarse fresh bread crumbs Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish 3/4 cup chopped celery 1 cup heavy cream 3 cups shredded cooked turkey 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme and/or sage leaves 8 oz. linguini 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese 2 to 3 Tbs. capers, drained

In a large skillet, melt 1 Tbs. butter over medium heat. Add half the garlic; cook, stirring, 30 seconds. Add the bread crumbs and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until bread crumbs are golden brown and aromatic, 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl. Stir the 2 Tbs. parsley into bread crumbs. Wipe out the skillet.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, melt remaining 1 Tbs. butter in the skillet over medium. Add the celery and remaining garlic, and cook, stirring often, 5 minutes. Stir in the cream, and simmer, uncovered, 3 minutes. Add the turkey and thyme; heat through.

Cook the pasta according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving ¼ cup cooking liquid. Stir liquid into turkey, then toss with pasta. Stir in cheese, capers, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Garnish servings with bread crumbs and parsley.

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M A K E I T TO N I G H T

FAST AND FRESH

arctic char with green olive and lemon dressing The bright, briny dressing is fabulous on richly flavored fish. If you can find buttery Castelvetrano olives, use them.

Serves 4 4 5-oz. fresh or frozen arctic char or salmon fillets with skin, ½ to ¾ inch thick 1 medium lemon ½ cup pitted green olives, rinsed and coarsely chopped 1 Tbs. capers, rinsed and drained 4 Tbs. olive oil, divided Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped

savory chard pie Chard’s earthy, minerally flavor is a draw for some, a drawback for others. Goat cheese and ham or prosciutto soften those flavors and should quell any reservations from naysayers. Serves 4 1 14.1-oz. pkg. rolled refrigerated unbaked piecrust (2 piecrusts) 6 to 8 cups coarsely chopped Swiss chard with stems 4 oz. garlic-and-herb-flavor goat cheese 4 large dates, pitted and chopped 3 oz. thinly sliced ham, pancetta, or prosciutto Salt and black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Let the piecrusts stand according to package directions. In a large bowl, massage the Swiss chard for 30 seconds (you should have about 3 cups); set aside.

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Unroll the piecrusts onto a lightly floured surface. Cut each crust in half. Roll or press each half with your hands until wide enough to trace around an 8-inch plate with a small knife. Discard scraps or reserve for another use.

Transfer rounds to a large, rimmed baking sheet.

Layer the chard, goat cheese, dates, and ham in the center of each round. Fold edges over the filling, pleating as necessary and leaving center of filling exposed.

Sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the crust is golden brown.

Thaw fish, if frozen. For the dressing, remove zest and squeeze 3 Tbs. juice from lemon. In a small saucepan, combine lemon zest and juice, olives, and capers. Slowly stir in 3 Tbs. of the oil. Heat over low heat 5 to 10 minutes or until warm (do not simmer), stirring occasionally. Remove from heat; cover to keep warm.

Preheat broiler. Line a shallow baking pan with foil. Rinse fish; pat dry. Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper. Gently rub both sides with remaining 1 Tbs. oil. Place fish, skin-sides down, in prepared pan. Broil 4 inches from the heat for 7 minutes or until fish flakes easily.

Stir the parsley into the warm dressing, and spoon over the fish.

ONE-DISH DINNER

moroccan beef and pumpkin bake This casserole hits the spot when you need something comforting—and quick. Serves 8 Nonstick cooking spray 1 lb. ground beef

11/4 tsp. baking powder Salt

2 cups 1/2-inch pieces peeled pumpkin or winter squash

1/2 cup milk

3/4 cup coarsely chopped red bell pepper

2 Tbs. olive oil

1/2 cup coarsely chopped onion 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup frozen whole kernel corn 1/2 cup dried couscous 1 recipe Moroccan Spice Blend 1 cup beef broth 1/2 8-oz. pkg. cream cheese, cut up 1/2 cup yellow cornmeal 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 1 Tbs. sugar

1 egg, beaten

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Coat an unheated large nonstick skillet with cooking spray. In skillet, cook the ground beef, squash, bell pepper, onion, and garlic over medium heat until meat is brown and onion is tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain off fat. Stir the corn, couscous, and spice blend into the meat mixture in the skillet. Cook, stirring often, until heated through. Add the broth and cream cheese, and stir until well combined. Spoon into a 2-qt. baking dish.

In a medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, and 1/4 tsp. salt. In a small bowl, whisk together the milk, egg, and oil; add to the cornmeal mixture all at once, and stir just until moistened. Pour the batter over beef mixture, and spread evenly.

Bake for 20 minutes or until a wooden toothpick inserted into topping comes out clean.

MOROCCAN SPICE BLEND

In a small bowl, stir together 1 tsp. ground cumin, 1/2 tsp. ground coriander, 1/2 tsp. ground ginger, 1/4 tsp. salt, and ��₈ tsp. ground cinnamon.

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M A K E I T TO N I G H T

golden turmeric fish Serve this brilliantly hued fish with couscous and mango chutney in any degree of heat you like—hot, sweet, or somewhere in between. Serves 6 4 4- to 5-oz. red snapper fillets Salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbs. unrefined coconut oil 2 Tbs. lime juice 1 Tbs. grated fresh ginger 1 tsp. ground coriander 1/2 tsp. ground turmeric 1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper Mango chutney, for serving Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving Lime wedges, for serving

Preheat the broiler. Rinse fish; pat dry. Season the fish with 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper. In a small bowl, combine the coconut oil, lime juice, ginger, coriander, turmeric, and cayenne pepper. Spread rub over skinless sides of fish.

Place the fish, skin-side down, on the greased rack of a broiler pan. Broil 4 inches from heat until fish flakes easily, 8 to 10 minutes.

Top fish with chutney and cilantro, and serve with lime wedges.

NOTE:

Coconut oil is solid at room temperature and liquefies when it’s warm. It doesn’t matter whether it’s solid or liquid when you stir it into the spices.

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PLANT-BASED

red curry-lime sweet potato soup Thai red curry paste is magic in a jar—just a couple of spoonfuls imbues this creamy coconut milk soup with layers of flavor.

Serves 6 2 Tbs. vegetable oil 2 medium leeks, white and light green parts chopped and washed Salt 2 Tbs. Thai red curry paste 4 cups mashed sweet potatoes 1 13- to 14-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk 1 lime, zested and juiced Olive oil, for serving (optional) Coarse black pepper, for serving (optional) ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

Heat vegetable oil in a 4- to 5-qt. saucepan over medium. Add leeks and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Whisk in curry paste, and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add the sweet potatoes, coconut milk, 3 cups water, and 1 tsp. salt.

Bring to a boil, then reduce heat. Simmer, covered, until heated through, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Let cool slightly.

Use an immersion blender to blend soup until smooth. Stir in lime zest and juice. If using, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with pepper. Garnish with cilantro.

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On the Menu

Classic

Christmas

BY LISA KINGSLEY

Menu fruit-stuffed pork roast Pair With: VIOGNIER

cheesy garlic potato gratin roasted chicories with brown butter eggnog baked alaska Pair With: TOKAJI

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Avid and enthusiastic home cooks love to experiment in the kitchen—and if you’re reading this magazine, I’d hazard a bet that you’re one of them. That’s what it’s all about, right? Learning new skills and tasting new things, broadening your horizons and all that.

Sometimes, though, it’s nice to make something familiar—say, for Christmas dinner. It doesn’t have to be the same, staid thing you serve every year, just something that has a ring of recognition to

FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

it. Maybe it’s prime rib, a gorgeously glazed ham, rack of lamb, or a crown roast of pork.

This classic Christmas dinner—a lovely rolled pork roast stuffed with dried fruits and glazed with currant jelly; a velvety gratin of potatoes, Gruyère, and cream; beautifully roasted, pleasantly bitter chicories drizzled with brown butter; and finally, a spectacular eggnog and red velvet baked Alaska—hits all of those notes.

It will call up memories of Christmases past—and make new ones, too.

fruit-stuffed pork roast If you can’t find mixed dried fruit bits, substitute 1½ cups snipped dried apricots, sweetened dried cranberries, or golden raisins. Serves 10 11/2 cups mixed dried fruit bits 1/3 cup apple juice 1/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. white balsamic or cider vinegar, divided 1/2 cup finely chopped onion 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves Salt and black pepper 1 3- to 4-lb. boneless pork top loin roast 2 medium onions, cut into wedges 2 Tbs. butter, melted, divided 1 Tbs. olive oil 1/3 cup red currant jelly 2 medium apples, cored and cut into wedges Fresh thyme leaves (optional)

For the stuffing, in a small saucepan, combine the dried fruit, apple juice, and 1/4 cup vinegar. Bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Boil gently, uncovered, for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, and let stand for 30 minutes. Stir in the chopped onion, chopped thyme, and 1/4 tsp. each salt and pepper.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. To butterfly pork loin, place the roast, fat-side down, on a large cutting board. Using a long, sharp boning or carving knife, cut lengthwise down the center of the meat, leaving 1/2 inch intact, to open like a book. Place knife at the base of the V, blade perpendicular to the first cut.

Using shallow slices and the cutting board as a guide, cut through the left side, maintaining a 1/2- to 3/4-inch thickness and opening the loin. Repeat on the opposite side, making shallow slices, and unroll to a flat surface and a relatively even thickness across the entire piece of meat. If some areas are thicker than others, lay a piece of plastic wrap on top, and pound the thick areas with the flat side of a meat mallet.

Season the meat lightly with salt and pepper. Spoon stuffing onto meat. Starting from a short side, roll into a spiral. Tie securely with 100% cotton kitchen string.

Place the onion wedges in a shallow

roasting pan. Drizzle with 1 Tbs. melted butter and the olive oil, and toss to coat.

Arrange the onion wedges in an even layer in the pan, and place meat on top. Season the roast with salt and pepper.

Roast, uncovered, for 30 minutes.

Reduce the temperature to 325°F, and roast 30 minutes more.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, melt the jelly over low heat. Remove from the heat, and stir in the remaining 1 Tbs. vinegar.

Place the apple wedges in a medium bowl. Drizzle with remaining 1 Tbs. melted butter, and toss to coat. Arrange the apples around the roast. Brush the meat, onions, and apples with jelly mixture.

Roast until meat registers 145°F on a meat thermometer, 30 to 45 minutes.

Remove from the oven, cover meat with foil, and let stand for 15 minutes before slicing. Serve with the onions and apples.

cheesy garlic potato gratin If you have a mandoline, slice the potatoes almost paper thin for the creamiest, tenderest gratin. Also, no need to peel the potatoes. Serves 6 11/2 lb. medium Yukon Gold or other yellow-flesh potatoes, thinly sliced 1/3 cup sliced scallions or thinly sliced leek 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. black pepper 11/2 cups shredded Gruyére, Swiss, provolone, or Jarlsberg cheese (6 oz.)

1 cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 2-qt. square baking dish. Layer half of the potatoes, and half of the scallions in the baking dish. Sprinkle with half

of the garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Sprinkle with 3/4 cup of the cheese. Repeat layers. Pour cream over the layers.

Bake, covered, for 1 hour 10 minutes. Bake, uncovered, until potatoes are tender and top is golden, 20 to 30 minutes more. Let stand for 10 minutes.

Cheesy Garlic Sweet Potato Gratin Prepare as directed, except substitute sweet potatoes for half of the Yukon Gold potatoes.

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MENUS

eggnog baked alaska There is no substitute for this spectacular dessert. Time and effort? Yes. Worth every minute of it? Yes! Serves 12 RED VELVET CAKE 1 cup plus 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour 2 Tbs. unsweetened cocoa powder 3/4 tsp. baking soda 1/4 tsp. salt 1/2 cup whole milk 1 egg 11/2 tsp. distilled white vinegar 11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract 1/3 cup vegetable oil 3/4 cup sugar 1 Tbs. red food coloring ICE CREAM 1/2 gallon eggnog ice cream or vanilla ice cream, softened, with 1 Tbs. freshly grated nutmeg and 2 Tbs. bourbon stirred in MERINGUE 1 cup egg whites (8 eggs), at room temperature 2 cups sugar MAKE THE RED VELVET CAKE

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9x9-inch square cake pan, line with parchment paper, then butter the paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the milk, egg, vinegar, and vanilla.

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In a large bowl, beat the oil and sugar with an electric mixer on medium speed until combined. Beat in about one-third of the flour mixture just until combined.

Scrape the sides of the bowl, then add half of the milk mixture, and beat just to combine. Add half of the remaining flour mixture, then the remaining milk mixture, and food coloring, scraping the sides of the bowl, and beating just to combine between additions. Beat in remaining flour mixture until batter is uniform.

Pour the batter into the pan, spreading evenly. Bake until a skewer comes out with a few crumbs, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Remove from the pan, and cool completely on a wire rack.

TO ASSEMBLE

Line a 9x4-inch Pullman pan (or 9x5-inch loaf pan) with plastic wrap. Spoon ice cream to within 1 inch of pan top.

Cut cake in half vertically. Place one half on the ice cream in the pan. Cover and freeze several hours or up to 1 month.

FOR THE MERINGUE

In a large heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg whites and sugar. (For a 9x5-inch loaf pan, reduce the egg whites to 3/4 cup [6 eggs] and the sugar to 11/2 cups.)

Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, being careful that bowl doesn’t touch the water. Whisk the egg white mixture until a thermometer registers 160°F, the sugar is completely dissolved, and the mixture is smooth, about 10 minutes. Remove the bowl from the saucepan.

Beat the mixture with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until light and glossy, and stiff peaks form, about 6 minutes.

TO FINISH

Invert and unmold the cake onto a chilled serving plate. Remove the plastic wrap. Cover the cake with the meringue, creating peaks with the back of a spoon.

Return to the freezer for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours. Immediately before serving, toast meringue using a kitchen torch. (If you don’t have a kitchen torch, unmold the cake onto a baking sheet lined with foil. Cover with meringue and freeze as directed. Place the oven rack 4 to 5 inches from the broiler, and preheat broiler. Broil the meringue for 2 to 3 minutes or until peaks are golden brown. Transfer to a chilled serving plate.) Serve immediately.

roasted chicories with brown butter Radicchio and endive fall into a category of pleasantly bitter vegetables called chicories. Roasted with sweet delicata squash and drizzled with brown butter, they’re simply delicious. Serves 6 2 oz. focaccia or ciabatta bread, cut into cubes ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 large delicata squash (about 1½ lb.), halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 heads Belgian endive, halved lengthwise 1 small head radicchio, cut into sixths

Preheat the oven to 450°F. In a 15x10-inch baking pan, toss the bread cubes with 1 Tbs. oil. Spread in an even layer. Bake until toasted, stirring once, about 8 minutes. Sprinkle with Parmesan and finely chopped parsley, then toss to coat.

Transfer to a piece of foil to cool.

In the same baking pan, arrange the squash in an even layer, and drizzle with 2 Tbs. oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Bake for 20 minutes. Add the endive, radicchio, and remaining 1 Tbs. oil, and

toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper.

Bake until the vegetables are tender and browned, 10 minutes more.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat the butter over medium-low until browned. Remove from heat, and stir in the lemon juice and capers.

Arrange vegetables on a platter. Drizzle with the browned butter, and sprinkle with the croutons and chopped parsley.

3 Tbs. unsalted butter 1 Tbs. lemon juice ¼ cup drained capers 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

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Cheers!

It’s a holiday tradition to raise a toast to the tenets of the season—joy, gratitude, and hope—but it’s more relevant now than ever. These festive drinks, both spirited and alcohol-free, set a merry mood.

BY LISA KINGSLEY

PomegranateGinger Beer Cocktail

RaspberryProsecco cocktail

Limoncello Cosmo

raspberry-prosecco cocktail The sweetness of the framboise is balanced by a splash of Campari in this refreshing sparkler. Serves 2

Citrus Sidecar

limoncello cosmo

citrus sidecar

Lemon and cranberry creates a clean and bright flavor that is never cloying or too sweet. Serves 1

This classic highlights peak-season citrus fruit—orange or lemon. Serves 3 Superfine granulated sugar (optional)

Ice cubes

½ cup brandy

1 Tbs. framboise (eau de vie)

3 Tbs. vodka

½ cup fresh orange juice or lemon juice

1 tsp. Campari

1 Tbs. limoncello, chilled

1 cup Prosecco or other sparkling wine, chilled

1 Tbs. cranberry juice

1 3 cup orange liqueur (Cointreau, Triple Sec, or Grand Marnier)

Fresh cranberries, for garnish

Fresh raspberries (optional)

For each drink, add 1 ½ tsp. of the framboise and ½ tsp. of the Campari to a champagne flute. Slowly pour in ½ cup of the Prosecco; stir gently. Add a sugar cube. If desired, serve with a wooden skewer threaded with raspberries.

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Ice cubes 3 orange or lemon slices

2 sugar cubes

Fill a cocktail shaker three-fourths full with ice. Add the vodka, limoncello, and cranberry juice. Cover and shake until very cold. Strain into a chilled martini glass or other small glass, and garnish with fresh cranberries.

Wet the rims of 3 short glasses with water, then dip rims in sugar and chill the glasses.

In a cocktail shaker, combine the brandy, orange juice, and orange liqueur. Add 1 cup ice cubes; cover and shake until very cold. Strain into glasses filled with ice. Add orange slices.

Snack & Sip

pink grapefruit martini This pretty-in-pink drink is sophisticated and refreshing.

Serves 2

½ cup gin or vodka 2 Tbs. freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice 1 Tbs. simple syrup

Pink Grapefruit Martini

1 Tbs. dry vermouth 1 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice Ice cubes 2 small pink grapefruit wedges, for garnish (optional)

In a cocktail shaker, combine the gin, grapefruit juice, syrup, vermouth, and lemon juice; shake to combine. Add the ice cubes; cover and shake until very cold.

Strain into two chilled martini glasses. Garnish with a grapefruit wedge, if using.

burnt-orange añejo sour Burnt-Orange Añejo Sour

To qualify as añejo, a tequila must be aged for a minimum of 1 year in oak barrels. Serves 1 1 orange slice ¼ tsp. sugar

pomegranate-ginger beer cocktail Like it spicy? Look for an intensely flavored ginger beer. Serves 1

4 mint leaves 1½ oz. añejo tequila 1 oz. fresh lime juice 1 oz. Cointreau or orange liqueur 1 oz. sweet vermouth 1 oz. pasteurized liquid egg whites Blood orange soda

2 Tbs. pomegranate seeds

Ice cubes

¼ cup bourbon, chilled (2 oz.)

1 Tbs. lime juice, chilled (½ oz.)

2 tsp. vanilla flavor syrup Ginger beer, chilled Sugared pomegranate seeds

Place pomegranate seeds in a tall glass. Use a muddler or the handle of a wooden spoon to crush them. Add bourbon, lime juice, and syrup. Top with ginger beer. Garnish with sugared pomegranate seeds, if desired.

Place the orange slice on a piece of foil; sprinkle with sugar. Use a kitchen torch to heat sugar until charred in some spots.

Let cool. Add mint to a cocktail shaker; use a muddler or the handle of a wooden spoon to bruise mint. Add tequila, lime juice, Cointreau, vermouth, and egg whites.

Cover and shake until mixture sounds less sloshy and is frothy. Add ice; cover and shake until very cold. Strain into a glass, and top with soda. Float burnt orange on top.

It’s always a good idea to serve some nibbles with a pre-dinner cocktail, but if you’re bartending, you’ll want to keep things as simple and selfserve as possible. Consider one or a couple of these homemade but completely uncomplicated options:

OLIVE OIL-FRIED ALMONDS In a 4 qt. saucepan, cook 2 cups blanched almonds in 1 cup olive oil over medium heat, stirring, until lightly golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Add 8 fresh sage leaves, 2 Tbs. fresh rosemary leaves, and 1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves. Cover pan immediately and remove from heat (herbs will make a popping sound). When the popping stops, drain immediately through a strainer, and spread almonds on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with 1 tsp. sea salt and toss to coat. When completely cool, store in an airtight container at room temperature.

Serves 16.

PARMIGIANO-PISTACHIO FRICO Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. In a food processor, finely grate 6 oz. ParmigianoReggiano. For each frico, sprinkle 1 scant Tbs. cheese on parchment in a line 4 inches long and 1 inch wide (12 on each baking sheet). Bake, one baking sheet at a time, for 7 minutes.

Remove from oven and sprinkle each frico with ½ tsp. coarsely chopped pistachios. Return to oven and bake until bubbling and golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer parchment to a wire rack and gently loosen the frico from with a thin metal spatula.

Let cool completely before serving.

Serves 8.

SPICY SPANISH OLIVES In a medium bowl, combine 2 cups mixed brined olives (such as manzanilla, Kalamata, and picholine), drained; 6 thinly sliced oilpacked sun-dried tomatoes; 1 large clove garlic, minced; ½ tsp. crushed red pepper; and ¼ tsp. hot pimenton de la Vera (smoked paprika). Let stand at least 15 minutes at room temperature before serving. Serves 8.

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Mocktails

pomegranate spritzers clementine-cranberry mocktail You can drink this ruby-red refresher all night and wake up with no regrets.

Serves 8 1 cup pomegranate juice, chilled 1 750-milliliter bottle sparkling apple juice, chilled Pomegranate seeds, for garnish (optional)

Add 2 Tbs. pomegranate juice to each of 8 champagne flutes. Pour sparkling apple juice into each glass, to serve. If using, add pomegranate seeds to each glass.

The combination of flavors in this lovely drink are so multilayered, you won’t miss the alcohol one drop.

Serves 8

1 cup clementine juice (from about 8 clementines)

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4 cups halved strawberries ¼ cup lime juice Crushed ice

¾ cup lime juice

½ cup loosely packed small fresh basil leaves

3 Tbs. honey or simple syrup

8 thin slices fresh ginger

Ice cubes 2 cups club soda, chilled

MAKE AHEAD

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This mule has lots of flavor but no kick—and that’s the point! Serves 8

6 cups diet ginger ale, divided 2 cups cranberry juice, chilled

Superfine sugar and or sliced clementine, for garnish (optional)

You can purchase pomegranate seeds, or seed a fresh pomegranate yourself. Score an “X” in the top of a pomegranate. Break the pomegranate apart into quarters.

Working in a bowl of cool water, immerse each quarter; use your fingers to loosen the seeds from the white membrane.

Discard peel and membrane. Drain the seeds. Cover and chill for up to 24 hours.

virgin strawberry moscow mule

In a pitcher, combine the cranberry juice, clementine juice, lime juice, and honey, stirring until honey is dissolved. Cover and chill up to 24 hours.

Just before serving, add ice cubes and club soda to the pitcher. If desired, wet the rims of 8 glasses with water, then dip rims in sugar. Pour mocktail into each glass, and garnish with a slice of clementine, if using.

In a blender or food processor, combine strawberries, ½ cup ginger ale, and the lime juice. Cover and blend or process until smooth. Strain if desired.

Transfer strawberry mixture to a large pitcher. Slowly pour in the remaining ginger ale; stir gently. Fill 8 glasses with crushed ice, and add basil and ginger to each glass.

Pour mule into each glass to serve.

3-6-1-6-6-7-5-1-3

Turkey by the

CLOCK

Pick a holiday bird based on the time you have and the crowd you’re cooking for.

BY LIZ PEARSON

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NOV/DEC 2020

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

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WHEN IT COMES TO A HOLIDAY showstopper turkey, time is of the essence. Each year I get a little better at executing Thanksgiving Day, like a train conductor wholeheartedly trying to pull the big meal into the station on time. Although there have been occasions when I’ve had two or three days to prepare a holiday meal, orchestrating the ballet of heaping bowls and warm platters, that’s just not the norm. The truth is that I’m usually scrambling to pull together the whole thing, including the turkey. We have a big family, so the total number of folks around the table tends to bump around until the last minute, too.

This year, I’m rolling into the fall and winter holidays prepared for anything, with a small but mighty arsenal of centerpiece-worthy turkey recipes to suit any time frame. With all of the time in the world, I can brine a whole turkey in spiced apple cider spiked with tart whole-grain mustard and fresh bay leaves, then slather it in rich apple butter and give it a slow roast.

With less time, but plenty of ingenuity, I can spatchcock a turkey, laying it out flat to roast in half the time. Briefly marinating it first, pollo asado-style with lime juice, bright orange achiote paste, and Mexican oregano, makes for juicy results (and killer leftover turkey tacos).

But who am I kidding? I could be running around with no time to spare, digging through pantry staples to find a delicious combo to flavor bone-in turkey breasts that roast quickly and still feed a crowd. I’ll choose white miso paste, soy sauce, and honey to make a sticky-sweet glaze, and then crown the bronzed bird with fragrant toasted sesame seeds and fresh green onions.

Whatever happens on Thanksgiving Day this year, I’ll be ready.

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cider-brined turkey with apple butter and sage I’ve been guilty of sometimes wondering if brining a whole turkey is really worth the effort. But this beautiful bird makes me a believer, with the flavors of apple cider, whole-grain mustard, and apple butter in every single bite. Finishing the brine with ice cubes, in lieu of water, makes quicker work of cooling it down. (Photo p. 29.) Serves 12 to 14 FOR THE BRINE 2 qt. apple cider 1 cup kosher salt ½ cup whole-grain mustard 1 Tbs. whole black peppercorns 1 Tbs. whole cloves 6 fresh bay leaves 3 cinnamon sticks 9 cups ice cubes FOR THE TURKEY 1 13- to 14-lb. turkey, gizzards, neck, and organs removed and saved for another use ½ cup (4 oz.) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1/3 cup apple butter 1 Tbs. very finely chopped fresh sage leaves ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp. kosher salt MAKE THE BRINE

In a large stockpot, combine cider, salt, mustard, peppercorns, cloves, bay leaves, and cinnamon, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the salt. Remove from the heat; stir in ice cubes. Cool to room temperature.

PREPARE THE TURKEY

Meanwhile, prepare the turkey for brining. Remove any excess fat and/or the tail (if you prefer), and loosen the skin over the breast, thighs, and legs.

Place a large brining bag inside a large, stockpot or plastic bucket (that will fit in your refrigerator) and roll down the top. Place the turkey in the brining bag, and pour the brine into the bag. Seal and chill for 12 to 18 hours, turning the turkey if needed, to be sure it’s evenly submerged.

ROAST THE TURKEY

Place a rack in the bottom third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, use a fork to mix together butter, apple butter, sage, pepper, and salt until well combined.

Remove the turkey from the bag, discarding the brine. Rinse the turkey thoroughly, and pat very dry with paper towels. Gently massage about half of the butter mixture under the skin and inside the cavity, coating the underside as well. Tuck the wingtips, tie the legs together with cooking twine, then spread the remaining butter mixture over the entire turkey.

Place turkey, breast-side up, on a roasting rack set inside a large roasting pan. Roast until just golden and pan juices are collecting, about 1 hour.

Baste the turkey with the pan juices, and tent with foil if the skin begins to get too dark. Rotate the pan, and continue to roast, basting every 30 minutes, until a meat thermometer inserted into the center of the thigh muscle (away from the bone), and into the thickest part of the breast, registers 165°F, about 1½ to 2 hours more.

Let the turkey stand for 20 minutes, then carve and drizzle with pan drippings.

Pair With: PINOT NOIR A fruity, clove-y Pinot Noir—a New World style from California or South America, for example— works with both the roasted apple butter flavors, as well as the baking spices in the brine.

soy-miso glazed turkey breast With a ginger-laced hoisin paste to flavor the turkey and a miso-honey glaze to baste it, the best of both sweet and savory Asian flavors come through in this fresh take on Thanksgiving turkey. Mayonnaise replaces butter as the chosen fat for deep browning and rich flavor. Serves 8 to 10 FOR THE TURKEY 3 Tbs. mayonnaise 2 Tbs. hoisin sauce 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated (about 2 tsp.)

1 large clove garlic, minced (about 1 tsp.)

2 2½ lb. bone-in, turkey breasts FOR THE GLAZE AND GARNISH 3 Tbs. honey 3 Tbs. soy sauce

PREPARE THE TURKEY

Place a rack in the bottom half of the oven. Preheat the oven to 450°F. In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, hoisin sauce, salt, sesame oil, ginger, and garlic.

Pat turkey breasts dry with paper towels, and arrange in a roasting rack set into a roasting pan. Loosen the skin over the breasts, and rub the mayonnaise mixture under and over the skin to cover. Place the turkey in the oven, immediately reduce the oven temperature to 350°F, and roast for 20 minutes.

2 Tbs. white (“mellow”) miso paste 1 Tbs. white sesame seeds

GLAZE THE TURKEY

2 to 3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, for garnish

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the honey, soy sauce, and miso paste.

Baste the turkey with the glaze. Return

to the oven, and continue to roast, basting every 15 minutes, until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast (away from the bone) registers 165˚F, about 1¼ hours more.

Scatter sesame seeds over the top during the last 15 minutes of roasting.

Let the turkey stand for 10 to 15 minutes, then carve, drizzle with pan drippings, and garnish with scallions.

Pair With: RIESLING Always a good choice with Asian dishes, especially ones based on white meat and fish, Riesling’s juicy acidity and light weight marry beautifully with soy sauce and white miso.

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roasted pollo asado-style spatchcock turkey Typically shredded for tacos, pollo asado usually refers to chicken, brightly flavored with fresh citrus juice, dried Mexican oregano, and achiote paste— a dense combination of ground annatto seeds, cumin, coriander, and cloves. Even with a short marinating time, turkey takes on these same flavors beautifully. Serves 10 to 12 FOR THE TURKEY 1 11- to 12-lb. turkey, gizzards, neck, and organs removed and saved for another use FOR THE MARINADE ¼ cup fresh lime juice, with any pulp ¼ cup fresh orange juice, with any pulp 2 Tbs. achiote paste 5 tsp. kosher salt

Arrange the turkey, breast-side up, on a large rimmed baking sheet, stretching out the thighs and wings so the turkey lies flat.

Spoon about one-third of the marinade under the skin, massaging to distribute evenly. Pour the remaining marinade over the top, and rub to coat the turkey completely. Marinate in the refrigerator, uncovered, for 1 hour.

1 Tbs. white vinegar 1 Tbs. dried Mexican oregano 1 tsp. ground cumin 6 medium cloves garlic, roughly chopped 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil SPATCHCOCK THE TURKEY

Arrange the turkey on a cutting board, breast-side down. Using kitchen shears, cut along both sides of the backbone, from tail to neck, removing the backbone completely. Pull the turkey open, and remove and discard any excess fat. Turn the turkey breast-side up. Place the palm of your hand on one side of the breast and push down firmly to break the breastbone.

Repeat on the opposite side. Loosen the skin over the breast, thighs, and legs.

MARINATE THE TURKEY

In a blender, add lime juice, orange juice, achiote paste, salt, vinegar, oregano, cumin, and garlic, and purée until smooth.

With the motor running, add oil in a steady stream until well combined. Set aside.

ROAST THE TURKEY

Place an oven rack in the bottom third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the turkey, breast-side up, on a large, parchment paper-lined rimmed baking sheet, ensuring the turkey is flat and the wingtips are tucked. Roast for 45 minutes, baste with the pan juices, and tent with foil if the skin begins to get too dark.

Rotate the pan, and continue to roast, basting every 30 minutes, until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast (away from the bone) registers 165°F, about 1½ hours.

Let the turkey stand for 20 minutes, then carve, and drizzle with the pan drippings.

Pair With: MOSCATO D’ASTI Lightly sparkling and slightly sweet, this is a great wine for Mexican food in general. Here, it’s especially apropos because of the citrus notes that echo those in the marinade.

BREAKING BIRD Spatchcocking is a 3-step process: 1. Remove backbone.

2. Trim excess fat.

3. Press down to break the breastbone on each side.

1.

2.

3.

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H A R V E SAL ADS

BY RIS L ACOSTE

These gorgeous fall salads exemplify the freshness and seasonality that is the driving force behind the menu at Washington, D.C.’s beloved eatery, RIS. 34

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Photographs by tktk

endive, walnut, and blue cheese salad with port vinaigrette

THE WARM-WEATHER MONTHS MAY BE THE peak season for salad eating, but when cool—even cold— weather arrives, there’s no need to put the salad bowl away until spring. Fall presents an opportunity to enjoy a completely different but equally satisfying array of salads built from the best the season has to offer.

The juicy tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, sweet corn, and lettuces of summer—leaf, tender Bibb, and crunchy romaine—give way to butternut squash, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, earthy mushrooms, roasted roots, nuts and grains, dark, leafy greens, and pleasantly bitter chicories balanced by the sweetness of fruit—fresh and dried—tangy cheeses, and dressings made with maple syrup and port wine.

These complex and beautiful main-dish salads take a bit of planning, but they’re well worth the effort and perfectly suited to dinner with company.

The velvety port and vanilla bean-poached pears become transcendent accompanied with the crisp, slightly bitter endive and astringent blue cheese. This recipe makes an elegant starter that can easily be composed as an hors d’oeuvre: filling the endive spears with the nuts, cheese, onions, and port vinaigrette, and topping it all with a slice of poached pear. Serves 6 FOR THE POACHED PEARS 2 cups port wine 1 cup sugar 1 vanilla bean 3 to 4 firm but ripe Bartlett or Bosc pears, peeled, stems left on FOR THE PORT VINAIGRETTE 2 cups port wine 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard ¼ cup honey

MAKE THE POACHED PEARS

In a large saucepan, combine the port, 1 cup water, and the sugar. Split the vanilla bean, and scrape the seeds into the pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Add the pears (the poaching liquid should reach half way up the pears) and cook, turning occasionally so all sides are equally poached, until soft when tested with a sharp knife, about 45 minutes. Store pears in the poaching liquid in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

MAKE THE PORT VINAIGRETTE

In a small saucepan, bring the port to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until reduced to ¼ cup, about 30 minutes.

Let cool completely.

In a medium bowl, combine the reduced port, the vinegar, mustard, honey, and shallots. Whisking constantly, stream in the oils until thickened and emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Store leftover vinaigrette in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. Bring to room temperature before use.)

½ cup diced shallot (about 4 small)

MAKE THE SALAD

2 cups peanut oil

In a large bowl, toss the frisée, radicchio, onions, and walnuts with ¼ cup of the Port Vinaigrette. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, arrange 5 endive leaves across the top of each plate (if you have extra endive, thinly slice it crosswise, and add to the salad, or use the leaves whole for plating additional servings).

Divide the salad among the leaves, nestling some into each. Sprinkle with crumbled blue cheese, and a drizzle of the remaining ¼ cup vinaigrette. Arrange fanned slices of pear on each, and serve.

½ cup walnut oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE SALAD 1 medium head frisée, trimmed , and cut into bite-size pieces (about 2½ cups) 1 small head radicchio, cut cross wise into ½-inch ribbons (about 3 2/3 cups) 1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced crosswise (about 1 cup) 1 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped (about 4 oz.)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 large heads endive (about 13 oz.), leaves separated 4 oz. blue cheese, crumbled, preferably Maytag (about 2/3 cup)

Pair With: PORT AND PROSECCO Besides being a great complement to the dressing, this cocktail has good acidity to stand up to both the blue cheese and the bitter greens.

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kale and brussels sprouts salad This recipe, a fan favorite at RIS, exemplifies fall at its finest: abundant with dried fruit and nuts, pickles, and roasted vegetables. Hand-bruising the kale to soften it a bit is one of the keys to making this salad such a success, as is the mustard crème fraîche, which beautifully brightens and balances the robust flavor of kale. Serves 6 to 8 FOR THE CANDIED PECANS Nonstick cooking spray 1 large egg white 1½ Tbs. pure vanilla extract 1 Tbs. bourbon 4 cups pecan halves (about 1 lb.) ½ cup packed light brown sugar Kosher salt SHERRY-WALNUT VINAIGRETTE ¼ cup sherry vinegar 3 Tbs. finely diced shallots (about 2 medium) 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard 1 Tbs. pure maple syrup Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup walnut oil ¼ cup peanut oil FOR THE PICKLED ONION 1 medium red onion (½ lb.), thinly sliced 2 tsp. granulated sugar 1½ salt ¼ cup red wine vinegar FOR THE MUSTARD CRÈME FRAÎCHE ½ cup crème fraîche ¼ cup whole-grain mustard ¼ cup Dijon mustard 1 Tbs. honey Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE ROASTED SWEET POTATOES 1 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice 3 Tbs. pure maple syrup 3 Tbs. walnut oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

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FOR THE GREENS 1 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed 8 cups packed stemmed kale, torn into bite-size pieces (1 ½ bunches) ¾ cup Sherry-Walnut Vinaigrette 1 cup dried sweet cherries 1½ to 2 cups Candied Pecans Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Pickled Red Onions 8 oz. fresh goat cheese, crumbled MAKE THE CANDIED PECANS

Position a rack in the center of the oven.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly spray with cooking spray.

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg white until stiff peaks form. Fold in the vanilla and bourbon. Fold in the nuts until well coated.

Fold in the sugar and 1/4 tsp. salt. Spread the nuts in an even layer on the baking sheet. Bake until dry, stirring twice, about 35 minutes. Let cool completely. Store leftovers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

MAKE THE SHERRY-WALNUT VINAIGRETTE

In a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallots, mustard, maple syrup, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. While whisking constantly, stream in the walnut oil and then the peanut oil until thickened and emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

PICKLED RED ONION

In a medium bowl, toss the onion with the sugar, and 1 1/2 tsp. salt and let sit for 10 minutes. Toss with the vinegar, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

ROAST THE SWEET POTATOES

Position a rack in the center of the oven.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a medium bowl, combine the sweet potatoes , maple syrup, and walnut oil, and season with 1 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Spread the potatoes in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Set aside to cool until ready to use. Or, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

PREPARE THE GREENS

Refresh the trimmed Brussels sprouts by soaking them in cold water for about 10 minutes. Drain well, and thinly slice with a knife, or in a food processor.

Soak the torn kale in cold water for about 10 minutes. Drain, and spin in a salad spinner or pat dry with paper towels.

Both Brussels sprouts and kale may be stored in plastic zip-top bags with a lightly dampened paper towel to until ready to serve, or for up to 2 days.

ASSEMBLE AND SERVE

Add the kale to a large bowl, and drizzle with 1/4 cup of the vinaigrette. Massage the kale to lightly bruise the leaves until all the leaves are tender and deep green. Add the sliced Brussels sprouts, dried cherries, pecans, and sweet potatoes, and drizzle with 1/2 cup of the remaining dressing; toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Smear a heaping tablespoon of the crème fraîche on the bottom of each salad plate or shallow bowl. Top with a some of the salad, a few pickled red onion slices, and the goat cheese.

MAKE THE MUSTARD CRÈME FRAÎCHE

In a medium bowl, combine the crème fraîche, mustards, honey, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 1 week.

Pair With: AMERICAN AMBER ALE Similarity to an American pale ale means this beer will have hoppy notes to go with the slight bitterness of the greens. More weight and maltiness means it will play well with the sweet potatoes, cherries, and pecans, too.

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harvest grain salad bowl This grain bowl is a colorful, fun meal. The pickled blueberries are a wonderful surprise that awakens the palate. You can use any combination of grains, nuts,or fruit, and the secret purée underneath it all. Cauliflower is great. Celery root is awesome.

Cauliflower rice can also be a substitute for one or all of the grains.

Serves 8 FOR THE PICKLED BLUEBERRIES 8 oz. blueberries or Concord grapes (about 1½ cups) 1 cup white balsamic vinegar 1 Tbs. granulated sugar FOR THE BALSAMIC DATES 1 lb. pitted dates or figs, cut in half lengthwise 2 cups granulated sugar ½ cup balsamic vinegar ½ cup sherry vinegar ½ vanilla bean FOR THE GRAINS 1½ cups dry farro 1½ cups dry quinoa Kosher salt FOR THE CELERY ROOT PURÉE 1¼ lb. celery root 1 cup vegetable stock or water 1 cup almond milk 1 Tbs. walnut oil Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper FOR THE ROASTED WINTER SQUASH AND SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS 1 medium acorn squash (about 2½ lb.), seeded and cut into 6 to 8 wedges ¼ cup orange juice ¼ cup pure maple syrup ¼ cup walnut oil 2 tsp. kosher salt 10 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed (about 5 cups)

FOR THE SALAD 6 oz. walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped 2 medium stalks celery, very thinly sliced (about 1 cup) 2 cups packed baby spinach (about 3 oz.) ½ cup Sherry-Walnut Vinaigrette (recipe, page 36)

PICKLE THE BLUEBERRIES Add the blueberries to a medium bowl.

In a small bowl or glass measure, stir together the vinegar and sugar, and pour over the blueberries. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, or up to 8 hours.

MAKE THE BALSAMIC DATES

In a medium saucepan, combine the dates, sugar, and vinegars over low heat.

Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, and scrape the seeds into the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the dates are saturated, and the liquid is slightly syrupy, about 6 minutes. Cover, and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days.

COOK THE GRAINS

Cook the grains separately according to package directions. Strain if necessary, and season to taste with salt. Spread grains on a large rimmed baking sheets to cool, then place in a large bowl and toss to combine. Cover, and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days.

MAKE THE CELERY ROOT PURÉE

Use a sharp knife to cut off the gnarly base of the celery root, and cut a thin slice from the top. Cut the root in half lengthwise, and use a paring knife to peel each half. Use a chef’s knife to coarsely chop the celery root into ½-inch pieces (you should have about 5 cups).

In a medium saucepan, combine the celery root, stock, almond milk, and walnut oil. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook just until tender, about 25 minutes. Let cool slightly.

Transfer the celery mixture to a blender or food processor, and add 1½ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper. Cover, and process or blend, until smooth, about 1½ minutes.

Season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, up 8 hours.

MAKE THE ROASTED SQUASH AND SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS

Position a rack in the center of the oven.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the squash in a large bowl, and toss with the orange juice, maple syrup, walnut oil, and 2 tsp. salt. Remove the squash from the dressing using a slotted spoon, and arrange in a single layer on half of a large rimmed baking sheet. Toss the mushrooms in the remaining dressing, then transfer with a slotted spoon to the other half of the baking sheet. Set aside the remaining orange dressing in the bowl.

Bake until the mushrooms are golden, about 20 minutes. Carefully transfer the mushrooms to the reserved dressing in the bowl. Flip the squash, after 30 minutes, and continue to roast until tender and caramelized, about 10 minutes more.

ASSEMBLE AND SERVE

Just before serving, combine the mixed grains, walnuts, celery, and spinach, and drizzle with about 6 Tbs. of the sherry vinaigrette. Smear about 2 heaping Tbs. of the celery root purée in the bottom of each of 8 shallow bowls. Divide the grain mixture evenly among the bowls.

Top grains with a wedge of squash, some blueberries and dates, and the mushroom caps. Drizzle with the remaining dressing, and serve.

Pair With: RHONE-STYLE OR GSM BLEND A combination of five grapes including Syrah and Grenache, this French blend has brightness for the pickled and vinegary elements in the salad, earthiness for the grains and mushrooms, and tannins for the nuts.

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SUCCESS with SOURDOUGH

BY CAROLINE SCHIFF I’VE BEEN COOKING AND BAKING professionally for over a decade, and sourdough always intimidated me. I could make complex desserts, truffles, perfect layer cakes, silky ice creams, and 500 cookies before 7 a.m., but this fermentation thing just wasn’t in my wheelhouse. Maybe it was the percentages that gave me mild PTSD from elementary school math class. Maybe it’s that pastry and bread are two different disciplines, two teams, and you’re on one or the other. All the books out there were too intimidating to even get through the intros, as I panicked at terms like autolyze and bulk fermentation. Are you stressed out yet?

All this anxiety and self-doubt kept me from the true pleasure and satisfaction of wild yeast until relatively recently in my career, when someone showed me how to do it in such a simple way. Rigo, our kitchen manager at Gage & Tollner, is hands-down one of the best chefs I’ve ever met. He also happens to be a selftaught fermentation expert. When we were writing the menu for Gage & Tollner, we knew we wanted to do bread in-house. Of course, this sent me into a panic, but cool-as-a-cucumber Rigo brought in the starter he had been nurturing for a year, and just showed me how to feed it. He had me do it each day, until that part of the process made sense to me and became routine.

Then he showed me how to mix, shape, and bake some boules. He didn’t talk about percentages and hydration.

It was just a daily task, and once my hands were in it, doing it, everything made sense. My fear and anxiety just melted away, like butter on a still-warm-from-theoven boule.

To put it simply, sourdough starter is natural yeast.

It’s made with nothing more than flour, water, and time.

Time allows it to gobble up all the wild yeast in the environment, and then fermentation occurs. You don’t have to do anything but feed it properly! Sourdough bread uses that active starter, some more flour, salt, and whatever else you like. All that wild yeast and fermentation allows it to rise.

Why use wild yeast as opposed to commercial? For me it’s all about flavor and texture. Wild yeast makes things tangy and chewy, and I really dig that!

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Making a Starter Alright, let’s make a 100% hydration starter. Don’t let this talk of percentages scare you; it simply means that it’s equal weights of water and flour, left to ferment.

I like a 100% hydration starter because I’ve found it to work well in so many baked goods, and it’s just so easy to do equal parts from a brainpower standpoint. Each day you feed it a bit and discard a bit to give all the yeasty microbes something to nosh on. The more it eats, the more active it gets.

After about a week it’s usually ready, but it can take up to 14 days, depending on temperature and your environment, so don’t worry if it’s going slowly. Just keep up the daily feedings.

What’s up with the discard?

Discard is the portion of starter that gets, well, discarded with each feeding. There are a few different approaches and schools of thought, but from my standpoint, discard is necessary for two reasons. First, with a new starter, the yeast needs to eat a lot to get really active.

If you don’t discard some of the starter, it just won’t have as much food and may go slower. Second, if you don’t discard some, you’ll very quickly have vats of starter fermenting in your kitchen, and if you live in a Brooklyn apartment like me, you likely don’t have the space or use for gallons of fermenting starter. Often it gets thrown out, but I implore you, don’t! It’s got so much going for it in terms of flavor and versatility, plus it reduces food waste if you can work it into a baked good! But more on the discard later. For now, let’s get this starter going.

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THE TOOLS A DIGITAL SCALE A scale is important for accurate ratios, and makes sourdough baking easier. You can get a great one for around $20. If you choose to measure instead, stir your flour to lighten it, use a spoon to sprinkle it into the measuring cup, and level off. (Measure the discard when it is dormant, but measure the starter after it has doubled.)

UNBLEACHED ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR I like a farmer-ground variety or King Arthur Flour.

RYE OR WHOLE-WHEAT FLOUR Try to get local, farmer-ground flour, as it will ferment faster and have better flavor. I love Janie’s Mill and Belle Valley Ancient Grains, both available online.

A 32 OZ. JAR with a lid, or a small piece of cloth and a rubber band A small MIXING BOWL A SPATULA TAPE OR RUBBER BAND that can fit around the jar to mark the level of the starter

THE PROCESS

DAYS 4–6 In a small bowl, combine 100 grams lukewarm water with 50 grams rye or wholewheat flour, and 50 grams (⅓ cup plus 1 Tbsp.) farmerground all-purpose flour.

Add 200 grams (¾ cup) of the Day 3 mix. The rest is discard; now you can begin to save in the refrigerator).

Rinse and dry the jar (do not use soap), and return the starter to the jar. Cover, vented, overnight. Total current weight: 400 grams.

Continue this process for Day 5 and Day 6. You will see bubbles and growth, and it will have a yeasty aroma, like ripe fruit, wine, or beer. Start tracking its daily growth.

After you feed and discard the starter, use the tape or rubber band to mark the level in the jar so you can see how much it is rising after each feeding, up to twice its volume in several hours.

DAY 7

DAY 1

DAY 2

DAY 3

In a small bowl, combine 100 grams lukewarm water (½ cup) with 100 grams rye flour (1 cup plus 2 Tbs.) or whole-wheat flour (1 cup minus 1 Tbs.). Stir until well combined, and transfer to the jar using the spatula.

Cover, vented, and let stand overnight. You may see some bubbles after standing, but if not, that’s okay. Total current weight: 200 grams.

In a small bowl, combine 100 grams lukewarm water (½ cup) with 100 grams rye flour (1 cup plus 2 Tbs.) or whole-wheat flour (1 cup minus 1 Tbs.), and mix well.

Add 100 grams (⅓ cup plus 1 Tbs.) of the Day 1 mix.

Discard the rest. Rinse and dry the jar (do not use soap), and return the starter to the jar. Cover, vented, overnight.

You may see a few bubbles forming. Total current weight: 300 grams.

In a small bowl, combine 100 grams lukewarm water with 50 grams rye (½ cup plus 1 Tbsp.) or whole-wheat flour (½ cup minus 1 Tbs.), and 50 grams (⅓ cup plus 1 Tbsp.) farmer-ground all-purpose flour. Add 200 grams (¾ cup) of the Day 2 mix. Discard the rest.

Rinse and dry the jar (do not use soap), and return the starter to the jar. Cover, vented, overnight. Total current weight: 400 grams.

Feed and discard the starter, as above. The starter will likely be active enough to bake with, yet to be sure look for these two things: First, after feeding, if it doubles in size within a couple of hours, it’s ready to be used.

Second, after it has doubled in size, drop a little starter in room-temperature water. If it floats, it’s ready.

If at Day 7 your starter isn’t ready, continue with the daily feedings; it can take up to two weeks. In the meantime, use the discard—the Savory Pancake recipe on p. 45 is a good place to start.

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sourdough focaccia So you’re ready to bake with your starter! Congratulations. Now what?!

If dreamy photos of beautifully scored sourdough boules on Instagram give you anxiety; I hear you. I see you. I feel you. I was like you.

It’s perfectly reasonable to cringe at those who tell you “it’s so easy,” because a crusty boule takes trial and error, plus, it involves heating a Dutch oven to a screaming hot 500°F, and then placing the dough in this screaming hot piece of cast iron, and …. I won’t get into it. It can be a terrifying experience, leading to third-degree burns if you’re not careful and, in my opinion, not the best place to start your sourdough journey. Enter: FOCACCIA. I love focaccia as a beginner bread for a few reasons. First, “I don’t want to eat a whole loaf of focaccia,” said no one ever. Second, it’s easy to mix, and you can watch all the fermentation happen and get familiar with how your starter behaves. Third, it’s versatile! You can leave it plain with just olive oil and sea salt, which makes it great for sandwiches. Or dress it up with veggies, olives, or roasted garlic, taking it as far as some light pizza toppings for a more substantial meal. Generous amounts of olive oil make it unctuous and crispy on the bottom, with a fluffy

interior. It just hits to spot. This has a long fermentation time so it’s ideal to mix in the evening, and let the bulk fermentation happen overnight. Just make sure your starter has been well fed earlier in the day so it’s ready to do the heavy lifting. You can then bake it off in the morning. You’ll want to do this recipe with the digital scale for the best results. Makes one focaccia 480 g (2 cups plus 2 Tbs.) lukewarm water (about 90°F) 150 g (1 scant cup) active and recently fed sourdough starter at 100% hydration 600 g (5 cups) all-purpose flour, or a combination of half bread flour and half all-purpose flour 9 g (11/2 tsp.) kosher salt 3 Tbs. olive oil, divided Toppings, such as fresh herbs, olives, nuts, cherry tomatoes, roasted peppers, artichokes, and/or cheese (optional) Flaky sea salt

In a large bowl, stir together the water and active starter (test to make sure a little of the starter floats before adding it all).

Add half the flour, and mix well by hand, (a few lumps are okay). Cover, and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. (This stage is called ”autolyze”; it begins the hydration and gluten development.)

Add the remaining flour and kosher salt, and mix by hand until uniform; it will be wet and shaggy. Cover and rest at room temperature for 1 hour.

Fold the ball of dough over on itself 4 times, rotating the bowl as you go (I like to use a bowl scraper to do this). Cover, and let rest 1 hour. Do this two more times, for a total of 3 folds in 3 hours. Cover, and refrigerate for about 10 hours. (This stage is called bulk fermentation.)

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Oil a 9x13-inch baking pan or 15x10-inch pan with 2 Tbs. of the oil.

Gently transfer the dough to the pan using a bowl scraper, fold it over itself, then gently press it into a rectangle. It doesn’t need to fill the pan completely as it will spread as it rests. Cover with a clean dish towel, and let rise at room temperature for about 1 hour.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 450°F. Remove the towel; the dough should have bubbles on the surface. Gently use your fingers to dimple the dough, gently push it into the corners of the pan, if needed. (The oil should pool nicely in the corners.) Drizzle the remaining 1 Tbs. oil over the dimples in the dough. Gently press in any toppings onto the dough (resist the urge to cover it like a pizza, as you want about 50% of the dough to be visible). Cover with a clean dish towel, and let rest 20 minutes.

Remove the towel, and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Bake until golden and bubbly with a few charred bubbles, about 30 minutes. Use tongs or a spatula to carefully transfer the focaccia to a wire rack to cool (this will ensure a crisp bottom).

SOURDOUGH DISCARD Now that you’re baking with starter, you have all that discard.

If you feed your starter every day (or with any regular frequency), and didn’t discard any, you’d have vats and vats of the stuff. Most home bakers aren’t baking enough to not have discard, but if you are, I applaud you and I also have a lot of questions about the square footage of your kitchen. At the restaurant we have minimal discard because we bake at a high volume with a very active starter, but at home it tends to accumulate. If you ever find yourself in a position of not having enough starter to bake with, simply feed as usual a couple of times without discarding any. You’ll build it up enough to have

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what you need. However, more often than not, you’re going to have some, and it’s a shame to waste. It’s flour and water—the basis of so many recipes—plus it has all the great flavor from fermentation, and still has a little bit of leavening power thanks to that as well.

The uses are endless, and people have been using the discard for centuries, so I encourage you to play with it. You can collect the discard in a vessel throughout the week, store in the fridge if not using right away, and once you’ve got a half-cup or more, have some fun with it. It should also be noted that one of the most wonderful things you can do with your discard is give it to a friend so they can begin their own sourdough journey.

savory pancake The easiest of the discard recipes!

When COVID-19 quarantine began, it was breaking my heart to throw out any discard. A chef friend dumped hers into a pan, fried it, and that was it! That effortless technique inspired me to make this pancake a staple in my kitchen. You can get creative and add 1/3 cup additional ingredients (see ideas, below). All starters are a little different, so you may need to adjust the heat and cooking time.

Makes one 8-inch pancake 2 Tbs. neutral oil (such as canola oil, or grapeseed oil), butter, or ghee 1 cup sourdough discard, room temperature Kosher salt 2 tsp. white sesame seeds ¼ cup sliced scallions

Heat the oil in an 8-inch nonstick or castiron skillet over medium-high heat. Season the discard with a pinch of salt, and add to the hot pan, tilting the pan to create an even layer. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and scallions. Cook until the edges begin to set and bubbles form, about 3 minutes.

Carefully flip the pancake, and cook until the bottom is golden brown and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. (If the pancake browns too quickly, reduce the heat. If necessary, add more oil to the pan.)

Invert the pancake onto a cutting board, scallion-side up. Slice into wedges, and serve warm.

VARIATIONS

Chopped jalapeño and ¼ cup shredded cheddar cheese; 1/3 cup chopped and drained kimchi; ¼ cup chopped roasted red peppers, 2 Tbs. crumbled feta cheese, and torn fresh basil leaves for garnish; 2 Tbs. grated Parmesan or Romano cheese (plus more for garnish), freshly ground black pepper, and fried egg for topping; 1/3 cup leftover roasted vegetables and chopped fresh herbs.

45

sourdough snacking cake Inspired by morning glory muffins, this one-bowl cake is just a little sweet and loaded with other good stuff. It’s earthy flavor comes from the discarded starter and additional whole-wheat flour, making it satisfying and filling. It’s delicious for breakfast, as a snack, or with an afternoon coffee break. Makes one 8-inch cake Nonstick cooking spray 1/2 cup sourdough discard, room temperature 2 large eggs 1/3 cup canola oil or grapeseed oil 1/4 cup plain yogurt or sour cream 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 1/2 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar 1/2 cup all purpose flour 1/4 cup whole-wheat flour, such as Red Fife 1 tsp. baking soda 1/2 tsp. baking powder Kosher salt 1 tsp. cinnamon 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom (optional) 1/2 tsp. ground ginger (optional) 1/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut 1 cup chopped toasted nuts and dried fruit* 2 Tbs. oats and 1 Tbs. pumpkin seeds or sunflower seeds, for garnish (optional)

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Position a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat an 8-inch round cake pan with cooking spray, and line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper.

In a large bowl, whisk together the discard, eggs, oil, yogurt, vanilla, and brown sugar. Add the flours, baking soda, baking powder, 1/2 tsp. salt and cinnamon, as well as the cardamom and ginger (if using), and, using a spatula, gently fold together until uniform. Stir in the coconut, nuts, and dried fruit.

Pour the batter into the pan and spread evenly. Top with the oats and the pumpkin seeds, if using.

Bake until set, and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Cool slightly before inverting onto a platter or cutting board. *NOTE

Favorite combinations include dried cherries and almonds; dried currants and roasted hazelnuts; dried figs and almonds; dried strawberries and toasted pine nuts; and dried pineapple bits and pecans.

sourdough discard biscuits The water from the starter replaces buttermilk or cream in these biscuits, making them a little lighter, but thanks to the fermented flavor and adequate amount of butter, they still taste indulgent. Make the plain biscuits to use for breakfast sandwiches, or slather with butter and jam.

The cheddar-jalapeño variation is great with soup. The chocolate-chunk variation is, if you ask me, better than a chocolate chip cookie. They’re more of a scone than biscuit, and so very welcome. Makes 8 biscuits 1½ cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 Tbs. baking powder Kosher salt 1 Tbs. granulated sugar ½ cup (4 oz.) butter, chilled and cut into chunks 1 cup sourdough discard, room temperature ½ cup heavy cream 1 egg, beaten 1 Tbs. whole milk Flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper (optional)

In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, 3/4 tsp. salt, the sugar, and butter. Use a pastry blender to cut in the butter until pea-size (the mixture will look crumbly). (Add the jalapeños and cheddar, or the chocolate chunks, and toss to distribute evenly, if making those variations.)

Add the starter and cream, and gently fold the mixture just until the dough holds together. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, and shape into a rectangle.

Gently roll until about 1/2 inch thick. Fold the dough in half, bringing the short ends together, and rotate 90 degrees. Repeat rolling, folding, and rotating until you’ve done 6 full turns,

dusting with flour as needed, if the dough becomes sticky.

Roll the dough into a 1-inch-thick rectangle, and cut into 8 squares. Transfer the biscuits to a parchmentlined baking sheet. Freeze for 30 minutes or up to overnight.

Preheat the oven 375°F. Remove the biscuits from the freezer. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and milk.

Generously brush the top of the biscuits with the egg wash.

For the plain or savory biscuits, top each with a little flaky salt and pepper, if desired. For the jalapeño-cheddar biscuits, sprinkle with cheese. For the sweet biscuits, sprinkle with granulated sugar and flaky salt.

Bake until golden, about 30 minutes. If the biscuits were frozen overnight, bake for 35 minutes.

SAVORY VARIATION

Add 2 minced jalapeño or serrano peppers, and 1/3 cup shredded cheddar cheese before adding the discard. Top the biscuits with additional cheese after the egg wash.

SWEET VARIATION

Use 3 Tbs. granulated sugar, and 1 cup dark chocolate chunks before adding the discard.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

47

The

ROOT

of the

Matter

Roasted to sweet, caramelized sublimity or left raw in a crunchy and refreshing salad, humble root veggies take a star turn.

BY DIANE MORGAN

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ROOT VEGETABLES ARE ODD and yet familiar at the same time. The popular ones— potatoes, carrots, sweet potatoes, radishes—are eaten with abandon. Roasted, fried, steamed, braised, and crunched on in classic salads. But it is the big family of root vegetables, including parsnips, celery root, beets, parsley root, burdock root, turnips, rutabagas, and more, that get a short shrift. They deserve to be in the spotlight, especially in fall when, after the first frost, the starches in the roots turn to sugar, making varieties such as parsnips and celery root especially delicious. The beauty of root vegetables is their versatility—pairing well with big, bold global flavors. In addition, they are relatively cheap, store well, and are nutritious.

For this selection of recipes, celery root is featured raw in a crunchy salad, tossed with a lively mustard vinaigrette, and punctuated with celery, capers, and herbs. But the celery root

could easily replace the potatoes in the recipe for sheet-pan roasted root vegetables. Sweet potatoes are given the classic treatment of being mashed, but the flavor profile is changed. Instead of adding brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg, the sweet potatoes get an umami-nuanced flavor with the addition of shiro miso. Consider sauces as a terrific addition to simply roasted root vegetables. The almond-herb sauce paired with roasted carrots and parsnips could be drizzled over roasted potatoes, rutabagas, beets, or grilled salmon or cod. I make a double batch and refrigerate for up to a week.

Sheet-pan roasted root vegetables have many possibilities—replace the potatoes with celery root or rutabagas, skip the Brussels sprouts, and add chunks of sweet potatoes. Or, during the last 15 minutes of roasting, scatter olive-oil-rubbed kale leaves over the roots and stir in. That’s the beauty of roots: They are versatile—something our grandparents knew all along.

sheet-pan roasted root vegetables with lemon and thyme This is a perfect do-ahead side dish that has many possible variations to suit your tastes. It’s generously sized to serve a crowd, but also because it makes for terrific leftovers. It can be reheated just as is or turned into a root vegetable hash with a runny fried egg on top. Use the leftovers as the basis for a vegetable curry or pot pie. Or simply toss this medley of roots with toasted homemade bread cubes for a wintertime root vegetable panzanella. Serves 12 5 medium parsnips (about 1¼ lb.)

4 large carrots (about 1 lb.)

1 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved ¾ lb. baby white or red potatoes, scrubbed and halved 3 medium golden beets (about 1 ¼ lb.), trimmed, peeled, and cut into thin wedges 1 large red onion, cut into ½-inch-thick wedges ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbs. pure maple syrup Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice ½ cup loosely packed, chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and a second rack in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Trim and peel the parsnips and carrots; cut in half lengthwise, then cut into 1½-inch pieces. In a large bowl, toss the parsnips, carrots, Brussels sprouts, potatoes, beets, and red onion with the olive oil, maple syrup, ½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper. Spread the vegetables in an even layer on 2 large rimmed baking sheets, potatoes and Brussels sprouts cut-side down. Roast for 20 minutes. Stir and rotate the pans. Continue to roast, until the vegetables are crisp-tender and slightly browned around edges, about 20 to 25 minutes more.

Transfer the vegetables to the large bowls, scraping the pan juices into the bowl. Drizzle vegetables with the lemon juice, and sprinkle with the parsley and thyme. Add the sambal oelek, if using. Toss gently. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl, and serve immediately.

MAKE AHEAD

The vegetables can be roasted up to 4 hours ahead. Leave on the sheet pans, and leave at room temperature, uncovered. Just before serving, warm in a 300°F oven for 10 minutes, then toss with the lemon and herbs.

2 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves 1 tsp. sambal oelek (optional)

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roasted carrots and parsnips with almond-herb sauce Parsnips are woefully underused, but once people try them, they are surprised by how sweet, aromatic, and nuttyflavored they are. Combining them with carrots makes this a colorful fall side dish, especially since parsnips are at their peak in the fall and early winter. The almond-herb sauce is versatile, whether drizzled over these roasted parsnips and carrots or spooned over a crisp roasted chicken. Switch up the herb mixture—use cilantro in place of the mint. Or, use one tablespoon each chopped thyme and sage leaves instead of the mint for a classic savory taste. Serves 6 FOR THE PARSNIPS AND CARROTS 6 medium parsnips (about 11/2 lb.)

6 medium carrots (about 11/2 lb.)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE ALMOND-HERB SAUCE 1/3 cup blanched almonds, finely chopped 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 1 large clove garlic, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/2 tsp. ground cumin 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh mint leaves 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

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MAKE THE PARSNIPS AND CARROTS

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 400°F. Trim and peel the parsnips and carrots, then cut into 3x1/2x1/2-inch pieces. In two 15x10-inch baking pans, toss the parsnips and carrots with the olive oil, and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and spread evenly in the pan. Roast, stirring twice, until the vegetables are tender and charred in spots, about 1 hour. While the vegetables are roasting, make the sauce.

MAKE THE ALMOND-HERB SAUCE

In a small skillet, toast the almonds over medium-low heat, shaking often, just until golden and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes.

Transfer to a plate, and set aside to cool.

In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon juice, garlic, 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, the cumin, and crushed red pepper. Stir in the almonds, mint, and parsley.

(The sauce can be made up to 1 day ahead. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container, and bring to room temperature before serving.)

To serve, transfer the vegetables to a large serving bowl. Drizzle some of the sauce over the vegetables, and serve the remaining sauce alongside.

sweet potato purée with maple-miso butter Mashed sweet potatoes get an interesting twist with the addition of shiro miso, which adds a savory richness while maintaining the sweetness of this classic mash.

Look for shiro miso in the refrigerated section of large grocery stores or at Asian markets. Serves 6 31/2 lb. Garnet or other orangeflesh sweet potatoes (about 7 medium) 4 Tbs. unsalted butter 1/4 cup heavy cream 1/4 cup shiro miso 2 Tbs. pure maple syrup 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 375°F. Scrub the sweet potatoes, and pierce each one several times with a fork. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. Arrange potatoes on the baking sheet. Bake until the potatoes are very tender, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Set aside until cool enough to handle.

To make the miso-maple butter, in a small saucepan, heat butter and cream over low heat until the butter is melted.

Remove from heat. Add miso, syrup, and cayenne pepper, and whisk until a smooth paste.

Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise, and scoop out the flesh; discard the skins.

Place the potatoes in a large bowl, and use a food mill, ricer, or potato masher to mash the potatoes until almost smooth. Stir the miso-maple butter into the potatoes until well combined. Transfer the potatoes to a 1½-qt. baking dish, spreading evenly.

Bake the potatoes until heated through, 15 to 20 minutes.

MAKE AHEAD

The sweet potato purée can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Cover the baking dish, and refrigerate until about 1 hour before serving. To serve, preheat the oven to 375°F. Let the casserole stand at room temperature for 30 minutes, then bake until heated through, stirring once, about 30 minutes.

celery root salad with celery, flat-leaf parsley, and capers Celery root has a long history in European cooking.

The French turned it into a classic bistro salad—céleri en rémoulade—and this salad is a play on those flavors and textures, except with a vinaigrette rather than a mayonnaise-based dressing. Serves 6 to 8 FOR THE DRESSING 1/3 cup white-wine vinegar 2 tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil FOR THE SALAD 1 large celery root (about 11/4 lb.)

11/2 cups thinly sliced celery 1 cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 1/4 cup capers, rinsed and blotted dry MAKE THE DRESSING

In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, 1 tsp. salt, ½ tsp. pepper, and the sugar. In a thin steady stream, whisk in the olive oil until incorporated. Set aside.

MAKE THE SALAD

Use a sharp knife to cut off the gnarly base of the celery root, and cut a thin slice from the top. Cut the root in half lengthwise, and use a paring knife to peel each half. Use a chef’s knife or mandoline to julienne-cut the celery root. Immediately add to the dressing, and toss to coat thoroughly to prevent browning. Add the celery, parsley, and capers to the bowl, and mix well.

Cover and let stand at room temperature for 45 minutes to allow the flavors to blend.

MAKE AHEAD

The salad can be prepared up to 1 day ahead. Cover the bowl, and store in the refrigerator until about 45 minutes before serving.

51

ALL

HAIL THE

HASSELBACK Try these Swedish fanned potatoes as a side for your holiday roast or bird this season.

They’re as simple as they are impressive, and they never fail to elicit appreciative swoons.

BY LISA KINGSLEY

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FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

SWEDES LOVE THEIR POTATOES, FOR GOOD REASON. The climate of Sweden—which ranges from pleasantly warm to cool to cold, but rarely hot—is ideal for growing them.

Naturally, Swedish cooks have come up with all kinds of ways to prepare potatoes, from simple boiled new potatoes with dill to kroppkakor—potato dumplings stuffed with onion and salt pork and served with lingonberries and cream sauce. But there is perhaps no Swedish iteration of the potato more genius than the Hasselback potato (Hasselbackspotatis).

Simply put, it’s a whole potato (peeled or not) that is cut almost through to the bottom, but not quite, at ⅛-inch intervals, then brushed with butter or oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, and baked. The result is a cross between baked and roasted potatoes. The inside is creamy and fluffy, while the edges of the accordian-cut slices separate as they bake, allowing heat to circulate around them, making them crisp and ethereal.

Hasselback potatoes are perfect in their most essential form, but they can also be dressed up—brushed with truffle butter or oil; seasoned with caraway, paprika, or herbs; topped with buttered bread crumbs or grated hard cheese; stuffed with soft cheese or roasted with small pieces of prosciutto slipped between each slice.

Most people who study this sort of thing believe they were invented in 1953 by Leif Ellison, a chef-in-training at Hasselbacken Restaurant and Hotel on Djurgården (“The Royal Game Park”), an island in Stockholm featuring a large open-air park and concert venue, living history museum, and amusement park.

The restaurant school principal was later credited in 1955, but I’d like to think it was the rookie cook who created such a brilliant recipe from only a humble tuber, butter, salt, and pepper.

53

classic hasselback potatoes

hasselback potatoes with herbs and seasoned bread crumbs

This is the Hasselback at its most essential. While the 1953 original called for butter, this recipe uses olive oil. Either fat helps create a nicely browned and crispy edge on the slices. Serves 4

A mixture of seasoned bread crumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, fresh chives, fresh thyme, and butter is sprinkled over the baked potatoes, then given a quick broil to create a crisp and flavorful topping. Serves 8 Nonstick cooking spray 8 medium russet potatoes (6 to 8 oz. each)

Nonstick cooking spray 4 8-oz. russet or sweet potatoes or eight 4-oz. Yukon Gold potatoes

5 Tbs. butter, melted, divided

2 Tbs. olive oil, divided

3 Tbs. seasoned fine dry bread crumbs

Salt

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, then coat foil with cooking spray.

For each potato, cut a thin slice, lengthwise from the bottom so it stands without rolling. Arrange two chopsticks or two ½-inch-thick wooden spoons lengthwise on opposite sides of the potato.

Slice into each potato crosswise at 1 8-inch intervals, stopping when knife reaches chopsticks. Arrange potatoes on the baking sheet, then brush with 1 Tbs. oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Bake for 30 minutes. Brush the potatoes with the remaining 1 tbs. oil and, if desired, season with more salt and pepper. Roast until the potatoes are tender and edges are crisp, 20 to 30 minutes.

1 Tbs. snipped fresh chives 1 tsp. snipped fresh thyme

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, then coat foil with cooking spray.

For each potato, cut a thin slice, lengthwise from the bottom so it stands without rolling. Arrange two chopsticks or two ½-inch-thick wooden spoons lengthwise on opposite sides of the potato. Slice into each potato crosswise at 1 8-inch intervals, stopping when knife reaches chopsticks. Arrange potatoes on the baking sheet, then brush with 2 Tbs. melted butter and sprinkle with ½ tsp. salt. Cover with foil.

SLICE IT RIGHT To ensure that you cut just almost all of the way through the potato, place wooden chopsticks or the handles of two wooden spoons (be sure they’re the same size) on either size of the spud. They’ll stop the knife in its tracks. You can also invest in a Hasselback potato cutter, which ensures perfectly even slices.

1.

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FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

2.

Bake for 45 minutes. Uncover, and bake for 10 to 15 minutes more or until tender. Remove the potatoes from the oven. Position a rack 4 to 5 inches from the heat, and preheat the broiler.

In a small bowl, stir together the bread crumbs, cheese, chives, thyme, and ½ tsp. salt. Sprinkle potatoes evenly with crumb mixture.

Carefully spoon on remaining 3 Tbs. melted butter, covering all of the crumb mixture.

Broil the potatoes for 2 to 3 minutes or until the topping is golden brown.

cheesy hasselback potatoes This recipe applies the Hasselback technique to fingerling potatoes, but the fans are filled with semisoft cheese and topped with herbed buttered bread crumbs. Serves 6 Nonstick cooking spray 12 fingerling potatoes (about 1¾ lb.)

3 Tbs. butter, melted, divided 1 5.2-oz. pkg. semisoft cheese with garlic and herbs 2 Tbs. fine dry bread crumbs 2 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese 1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary 2 tsp. lemon zest

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, then coat foil with cooking spray.

For each potato, cut a thin slice from the bottom, so it stands without rolling. Arrange two chopsticks or two ½-inch-thick wooden spoons lengthwise on opposite sides of the potato. Slice into each potato crosswise at 1 8-inch intervals, stopping when knife reaches chopsticks. Arrange the potatoes on the baking sheet. Brush with 2 Tbs. butter. Cover with foil. Bake for 45 minutes.

In a small bowl, microwave the semisoft cheese on 50 percent power for 20 seconds. Place in a plastic bag; snip one corner. In a small bowl, combine bread crumbs, Parmesan, remaining 1 Tbs. melted butter, and rosemary. Uncover potatoes. Use a butter knife to open layers, and pipe cheese between slices. Sprinkle with the bread crumb mixture. Bake 10 to 15 minutes.

Sprinkle with lemon zest.

55

SAVORY Pork Stews Warm up with a hearty pot of global goodness.

A variety of cuts gets treated to a diverse array of flavor profiles—each one uniquely delicious.

BY TONY ROSENFELD

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FINE COOKING • N F EOBV//MDAERC 22001230

drunken greek pork stew This quick take on bekri meze, the classic Greek appetizer, pairs chunks of pork with a good splash of wine (hence, the stew’s name) and a broth laden with bell pepper and onion. Because the flavorings are simple, look for good Mediterranean oregano which will impart a more nuanced flavor. Serves 4 2 pork tenderloins (about 2 lb. total), trimmed of fat, and cut into 1-inch pieces Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. dried oregano, divided 2 tsp. ground cumin, divided 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour 3 Tbs. olive oil, divided 1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch dice (about 1 cup) 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch dice (about 1 cup) 1 medium Spanish onion, finely diced 2 bay leaves 1 Tbs. tomato paste 1 tsp. minced garlic ¾ cup dry white wine (such as Pinot Grigio)

“THE OTHER WHITE MEAT” marketing campaign of the late-’80s had mixed results.

The premise was good: pork is versatile. But the ads also can be blamed indirectly for pork being bred way too lean and for proliferating the “it tastes like chicken” reference point for every strange protein.

Pork’s versatility is a theme worth revisiting, particularly in stews where you can match the cuts to your mood and time constraints.

The cooking formula that follows is simple: set the pork in a marinade so it soaks up some flavor, brown it to create a caramelized base, and then surround it with intense broths. The method is so easy and versatile that after a couple of tries, you may even consider subbing it for your other favorite dinner preparations.

1 ½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth ½ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Toss the pork with ½ tsp. salt, ¾ tsp. pepper, and 1 tsp. each oregano and cumin. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

Sprinkle the pork with the flour and toss to coat. Heat a large heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil, and when shimmering, add half of the pork in an even layer. Cook, undisturbed, until browned around the edges and pork easily releases when lifted with tongs, about 2 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium.

Flip, and cook until browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Cook the remaining pork

in the same manner; transfer to the plate.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. of the oil and the bell peppers, onion, and bay leaves. Sprinkle with ½ tsp. salt, increase the heat to mediumhigh, and cook, stirring to incorporate any browned bits on the bottom of the pot, until the peppers and onion soften and brown in places, about 6 minutes. Add the tomato paste, garlic, and the remaining 1 tsp. oregano and 1 tsp. cumin, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until it’s almost evaporated, about 4 minutes.

Add the broth, bring to a simmer, and then reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the pork and any accumulated juices, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pork is cooked through and the broth thickens, about 15 minutes.

Stir in half of the parsley and season generously with salt and pepper. Serve, sprinkled with the remaining parsley.

SERVING SUGGESTION

Pair with a warm salad of orzo tossed with olive oil, feta, chopped Kalamata olives, and wilted arugula.

Pair With: PINOT GRIGIO One of the most basic rules of food and wine pairing is that the wine used in a recipe will often go well with the recipe.

So whatever you open to splash in the stew, splash it into your glass as well.

57

new mexican green chile pork stew with corn, queso fresco, and pickled red onion This is a weeknight riff on the classic New Mexican stew made with Hatch chiles during the fall harvest. Anaheim peppers are not quite as spicy as Hatch (nor do they boast the illustrious terroir), but they do have great flavor and are readily available. Serves 4 FOR THE PORK 2 pork tenderloins (about 2 lb. total), cut into 1 ½-inch chunks ½ tsp. kosher salt ¾ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. granulated sugar 1 tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. garlic powder FOR THE PICKLED ONION 1 medium red onion (½ lb.), thinly sliced 2 tsp. granulated sugar 1½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ cup red wine vinegar FOR THE STEW 1 lb. Anaheim chiles, halved, seeds and membranes removed 2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 1 cup fresh cilantro sprigs, divided 3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced (about ½ cup) 1 tsp. ground cumin 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour 2 Tbs. olive oil 2 ears corn, cut into kernels (about 1½ cups) 1 lime, juiced (2 Tbsp.) ½ cup crumbled queso fresco or feta (about 4 oz.)

SEASON THE PORK

In a large bowl, toss the pork with salt, pepper, cumin, sugar, chili powder, and garlic powder. Let sit at room temperature 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

MAKE THE PICKLED ONION

In a medium bowl, toss the onion with the sugar and salt, and let sit for 10 minutes. Toss with the vinegar, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

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FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

MAKE THE STEW

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with foil. Place chiles, cutside down, on baking sheet. Roast until skins are charred, about 20 minutes.

Wrap peppers in the foil, and let stand 20 to 30 minutes or until cool enough to handle. Peel off skin.

For the broth, in a blender, combine the peppers, broth, 1/2 cup cilantro, the scallions, and cumin until smooth.

Sprinkle the pork with flour and toss to coat. Heat a large heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the oil, and when shimmering, add half of the pork in an even layer. Cook, undisturbed, until browned around the edges and pork easily releases when lifted with tongs, about 2 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium. Flip, and cook until browned, about 2 minutes.

Transfer to a plate. Cook the remaining pork; transfer to the plate.

Add the puree to the pot, and bring to a boil. Return the pork and any accumulated juices to the pot, along with the corn. Reduce the to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pork is cooked through and the broth thickens, about 15 minutes.

Add the lime juice, and season generously with salt and black pepper.

Serve, topped with the remaining 1/2 cup cilantro, the onion, and queso fresco.

SERVING SUGGESTION

Pair with spiced quinoa and slow-cooked pinto beans.

Pair With: SAUVIGNON BLANC Acidic, herbaceous Sauv Blanc is a great partner to the bright green flavors in this stew. Ideally, choose a fruit-forward style to better balance the food’s spice.

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szechuan pork stew with ginger and chiles Szechuan peppercorns give this stew its iconic tingle and intense aroma. Though they’re not readily available at all supermarkets, you can find peppercorns easily enough online if not on a run to the Asian market. And once you have secured a stash, these small rounds make a fun addition to stir-fries and noodles. Serves 4 FOR THE MARINADE 2 lb. pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat, and cut into 1-inch pieces 3 Tbs. soy sauce 1 Tbs. Shaoxing wine or dry sherry

MAKE THE MARINADE

Toss the pork with the soy sauce, wine, sesame oil, sugar, and five-spice powder.

Let sit at room temperature 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

1 Tbs. toasted sesame oil 1 Tbs. granulated sugar ½ tsp. five-spice powder FOR THE STEW 1 Tbs. cornstarch 3 Tbs. canola oil or peanut oil, divided 1 knob ginger (about 2 oz.), peeled and thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, smashed 10 whole dried red chiles 1 Tbs. Szechuan peppercorns (about ¼ oz.), cracked 1½ cups low-salt chicken broth 3 Tbs. low-salt soy sauce 2 Tbs. oyster sauce 4 scallions (both white and green parts), thinly sliced (about ½ cup), for serving

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MAKE THE STEW

Sprinkle the pork with the cornstarch and toss to coat. Heat a large, heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil, and when it’s shimmering, add half of the pork in an even layer. Cook, undisturbed, until browned around the edges, and pork easily releases when lifted with tongs, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Flip, and cook the other side until browned, about 2 minutes.

Transfer to a plate. Cook the remaining pork in the same manner; transfer to the plate.

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, the ginger, garlic, and chiles. Cook, stirring, until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the broth, soy sauce, and oyster sauce, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Add the pork and any accumulated juices. Reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until the pork is tender, about 1 hour.

Sprinkle with the scallions, and serve.

SERVING SUGGESTION

Pair with steamed jasmine rice and stir-fried garlicky Chinese broccoli.

Pair With: OFF-DRY RIESLING Why off-dry? Because a little bit of sweetness both offsets and complements the heat from the chiles.

southern pork stew with collards and black-eyed peas Country-style ribs are technically chops from the blade end of the loin near the shoulder. They are neither as fatty as pork butt nor as quick-cooking as pork chops. The trick is to cook them gently to render their fat and so that their disparate muscles cook evenly. Serves 4 4 lb. boneless pork country-style ribs (8 medium ribs), trimmed of excess fat Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. granulated sugar 1 tsp. sweet paprika 1 tsp. chili powder 1 tsp. ground cumin ½ tsp. garlic powder ½ cup all-purpose flour 4 Tbs. olive oil, divided 1 tsp. minced garlic 1 bunch collard greens (about 1½ lb.), stemmed, washed, and cut into 2-inch ribbons 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 15-oz. can black-eyed peas, drained 6 oz. ham steak, cut into ½-inch dice (about 1 ½ cups)

In a large bowl, toss the pork with 2 tsp. salt, ¾ tsp. pepper, the sugar, paprika, chili powder, cumin, and garlic powder. Let sit at room temperature 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

Heat a large, heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the flour to a shallow bowl, and dredge the ribs to coat evenly. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil to the Dutch oven, and when shimmering, add half of the ribs, evenly spaced. Cook, undisturbed, until the pork is browned around the edges and easily releases when lifted with tongs, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, flip the ribs, and cook until browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Add another 1 Tbs. of the oil, and cook the remaining ribs in the same manner; transfer to the plate.

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, and the garlic. When the garlic begins to sizzle, add the collards. Cook, stirring, until the greens are wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken broth. Reduce the heat to medium low, and add the black-eyed peas, ham, and the browned pork and any juices.

Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pork is cooked through and the broth thickens, about 25 minutes.

Serve the ribs on top of the greens, and ladle the broth and beans around it.

Pair With: AMERICAN PALE ALE Refreshing and clean, so it doesn’t compete with the complexity of the stew, but with nice hoppiness that goes with the greens.

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Bread Pudding for Supper Create a custardy, comfort-food dish that suits your mood with this infinitely customizable recipe.

BY SUSIE MIDDLE TON

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SAVORY BREAD PUDDINGS are some of the most versatile and filling egg dishes you can make. You might hear them referred to as “stratas,” but I think that term is limiting. A savory bread pudding isn’t just sausage and bread and cheese— it can be a fresh, bright-tasting dish packed with herbs, seasonal vegetables, and other flavorful ingredients.

Like quiche or frittata, bread pudding is really just another great way to turn custard—eggs and dairy—into a filling dish.

The biggest rule of thumb for custard is to season it well before cooking. You can’t add flavor after it bakes, so plenty of salt,

pepper, herbs, and aromatics are key to a tasty bread pudding.

No matter which vegetables you choose, it’s best to cook them before using them in a custard, or else they will give off too much liquid when they cook (and also taste and feel raw).

Meats like sausage and bacon should be cooked first, too, and I also like to crisp up cured meats like thinly sliced salami and chorizo before using them in a custard.

Savory bread puddings get more flavorful as they sit, so give them time to cool a bit before eating. Leftovers will be even tastier. Gently reheat, covered, in the oven or microwave.

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savory bread pudding If you make your bread pudding without meat, double the amount of vegetables. Once you’ve made a few, feel free to play around with proportions. Just be sure everything fits in a 2-quart dish, with custard covering everything. Serves 9 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for buttering the pan 6 oz. BREAD, cut into ¾-inch cubes (about 5 cups) Extra-virgin olive oil (optional) 5 to 6 oz. MEAT, finely diced or sliced 8 oz. VEGETABLES, or 12 oz. LEAFY GREENS, or 8 to 10 oz. vegetables and leafy greens combination 1 to 2 tsp. chopped fresh garlic and/or ginger 7 large eggs 2½ cups half-and-half

Transfer meat to a paper towel-lined plate. Drain all but enough fat to just cover the bottom of the pan, and return the pan to the heat. Add the VEGETABLES and cook, stirring, until tender and browned, 6 to 8 minutes, or if cooking GREENS, just until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. If using two vegetables, begin with the longer-cooking vegetable first, and add greens the last 1 to 2 minutes.

Reduce the heat to low, add the garlic, and sauté just until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat.

STEP 2 MIX THE CUSTARD

In a large bowl, combine the eggs, half-and-half, Worcestershire, HERBS, OPTIONAL AROMATICS, ½ tsp. salt, and pepper to taste. Whisk to combine.

Make It Your Way Pick your favorite cheese, current leftover bread, whatever vegetables you like. Add lots of herbs and a bit of meat, and you’ve got a custom bread pudding.

BREAD (CHOOSE 1) Challah Croissants English muffins Multigrain Peasant Sourdough Whole-wheat

½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce 2 to 3 Tbs. chopped fresh HERBS

ASSEMBLE THE BREAD PUDDING

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

If using a baking dish, arrange half of the BREAD cubes over the bottom of the baking dish. Scatter half of the MEAT, half of the VEGETABLES, and half of the CHEESE over the bread. Repeat with the remaining bread cubes, meat, vegetables, and cheese. If using ramekins, in a large bowl, toss together the BREAD, MEAT, VEGETABLES, and CHEESE. Divide mixture between the ramekins.

Spoon or pour the custard evenly in the baking dish or ramekins. Use the back of a spoon to press down lightly to moisten.

Let stand for 10 to 20 minutes.

Bake until the pudding has puffed, is set in the middle, turns golden brown, and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes for the baking dish, or 25 to 30 minutes for the ramekins.

Let cool for 15 to 20 minutes, and serve warm. Alternatively, cool completely, refrigerate, and reheat individual servings in the microwave, or in the oven at 350°F for 20 minutes.

5 to 6 oz. CHEESE

STEP 1 PREPARE BREAD, MEAT, AND VEGETABLES

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 2-qt. baking dish or nine 1-cup ramekins.

Place the BREAD cubes on a large baking sheet, and bake until lightly toasted, 8 to 10 minutes. Let the bread cool slightly, then transfer to a bowl. Melt the 2 Tbs. butter, and drizzle over the bread cubes; stir to coat.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat.

Add oil, if using. Add the MEAT and cook, stirring constantly if pieces are small, until crisp and brown, 1 to 3 minutes for prosciutto or ham, 5 to 10 minutes for sausage or bacon.

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STEP 3

Optional AROMATICS

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MEAT (CHOOSE 1) Bacon Canadian bacon Cured or fresh chorizo Ham Other cured pork Pancetta Prosciutto Salami/sopressata Sausage

VEGETABLES (CHOOSE 1 TO 3)

Sliced asparagus or green beans Very small broccoli or cauliflower florets Diced bell pepper Sliced or quartered small mushrooms Diced or thinly sliced onions or fennel Fresh corn kernels Sliced scallions Sliced shallots or leeks

LEAFY GREENS (CHOOSE 1)

Baby spinach leaves Baby kale or mustard leaves Chopped Swiss chard Very thinly sliced mature greens, such as collards or kale

HERBS (CHOOSE 1 TO 4) Use any combination with a balance between woody and tender herbs.

Basil Chervil Chives Cilantro

Mint Oregano Parsley Thyme

AROMATICS (CHOOSE 1 OR 2)

2 tsp. chopped capers 2 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 to 2 tsp. prepared horseradish 1 tsp. lemon or lime zest 2 Tbs. finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes

CHEESE (CHOOSE 1 OR 2) Use all hard cheese, all soft or fresh cheese, or a combination of the two Hard cheese Aged Gouda Cheddar Gruyère Parmigiano-Reggiano Swiss Fresh or soft cheese Brie or Camembert Goat cheese (chèvre) Feta

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BY KEN HAEDRICH

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ENDINGS

Desserts that showcase the power and subtlety of one of nature’s most perfect sweeteners.

MAPLE

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WHEN I MOVED TO New Hampshire from New Jersey in my 20s to take a job as the head cook at a facility for children, I knew as much about maple syrup as the next city kid: it comes in a plastic bottle, from the supermarket, and you squirt it on pancakes.

Turned out I had a lot to learn.

What I thought was maple syrup is, of course, imitation maple syrup, a shadow of the real thing. Also known as “pancake syrup,” it’s typically 2% to 3% real maple syrup mixed with mostly corn syrup.

Real or pure maple syrup, on the other hand, is just that: 100% maple sap, boiled down to a syrup. It comes from Mother Nature, not a processing plant.

I was, however, right about one thing: Pure maple is a natural with pancakes.

But pancakes and waffles are just the tip of the iceberg. Real maple has an affinity for so many dishes that come to the table—especially when it comes to my favorite subject: dessert.

Early on, I learned that when you make a dessert with maple syrup, you often have to find the right balance between it and other sweeteners. Like perfume, more maple isn’t necessarily better. Subtlety can be just as captivating.

A good example is the Maple Cup Pudding (opposite), an old-fashioned dessert with a New England accent. We sweeten it with a little more maple than we do sugar and, I believe, arrive at just the right balance. The pudding is sweet enough, and the maple flavor is there, but it’s more suggestion than bold statement.

The desserts on these pages add up, if not to the last word in maple desserts, a sweet sampling that helped teach a Jersey boy—and perhaps you, too—that maple syrup isn’t just for pancakes.

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apple-walnut maple blondies Take a maple-apple-walnut filling, sandwich it between two shortbread-like crusts, then finish it with a maple glaze—and you have one delectable blondie. We use a little trick to create even cookie layers, grating the chilled dough into the pan. This allows us to spread the gratings around and make nice level layers before we press them into place. Blondies are typically eaten out of hand, but you can elevate these to a plated dessert if you serve them warm with a scoop of ice cream. (Photo p. 67.) Serves 16 FOR THE CRUST 1¼ cups sugar 1¼ cups (12 oz.) unsalted butter, slightly softened 2 large egg yolks ½ tsp. pure vanilla extract 2½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. salt FOR THE FILLING 2½ cups peeled, cored, and diced apples (2 large) 1½ Tbs. unsalted butter 3 Tbs. pure maple syrup ½ cup chopped walnuts 1½ tsp. lemon juice 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest Maple Confectioners’ Sugar Glaze (p. 73) MAKE THE CRUST

In a food processor, combine the sugar and butter. Pulse until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the yolks and vanilla, and pulse until well combined.

In a small bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add half of the dry ingredients to the butter mixture, and process until combined, scraping down the sides as necessary. Add the remaining dry mixture, and process until combined.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. With floured hands, knead the dough gently until smooth, about 30 seconds. Divide the dough in half, and shape halves into logs.

Wrap each half in plastic wrap, and freeze.

FOR THE FILLING

In a medium saucepan, combine the apples and butter. Cook, covered, over medium heat until tender, stirring occasionally, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the maple syrup.

Cook, covered, for 3 minutes more.

Remove from the heat, and stir in the walnuts, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Transfer the filling to a plate, and let cool.

Lightly butter and flour an 8x8-inch baking pan, preferably metal (reduce the heat to 325°F if using glass).

Grate one dough half with a box grater directly into the pan, stopping occasionally to evenly distribute the gratings. Press the dough evenly into the pan and slightly up the sides, about 1/3 inch. Refrigerate until dough is firm, 45 to 60 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the apple filling evenly over the crust.

Grate the remaining dough half over the filling, stopping occasionally to evenly distribute the gratings. Press the gratings into the blondie.

Bake on the middle rack for 30 minutes. Rotate the pan front to back, and bake until the top is light golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes more. Transfer to a wire rack, and let cool completely. To serve, generously drizzle the blondies with the Maple Confectioners’ Sugar Glaze. Let stand until the glaze is set.

maple cup pudding If you can find 15 minutes and know how to use a whisk, this comforting dessert is within reach any day of the week. Rich and creamy, and smooth as silk, it’s perfect on its own, with a dollop of whipped cream and granola, or if you’re craving something extra special (see “From Pudding to Cream Pie,” below). Some like their pudding warm, but I prefer this well chilled. Serves 5 to 6 1 cup milk 11/2 cups half-and-half 1/3 cup pure maple syrup 1/4 cup cornstarch 1/4 cup sugar 5 egg yolks 1/4 tsp. salt 11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, chopped

In a medium stainless-steel or nonstick saucepan, combine the milk, half-and-half, and maple syrup (do not use aluminum as it may discolor the pudding). Bring almost to a simmer, and remove from the heat when you see wisps of steam.

In a large bowl, combine the cornstarch, sugar, and egg yolks. Whisk until the mixture thickens and is pale in color, about 2 minutes. Slowly whisk the hot milk mixture into the sugar mixture. Whisk in the salt.

Pour the mixture into the saucepan,

FROM PUDDING TO CREAM PIE You can turn this into a 9-inch pie, if you’d like. When the pudding is removed from the heat, transfer to a bowl, then lightly press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Cool to room temperature, and refrigerate for at least 3 to 4 hours before continuing. Don’t whisk or stir

and bring to a boil, whisking constantly, 5 to 7 minutes. When the pudding begins to boil, reduce the heat, and whisk for exactly 1½ minutes. Time it to be sure.

Immediately remove from the heat, and whisk in the vanilla and the butter, one piece at a time, until melted. Spoon the pudding into 5 or 6 dessert cups or ramekins. Lightly press plastic wrap on the surfaces to prevent a skin from forming.

Serve the pudding warm, or cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until serving.

the pudding once it has been covered or it will start to break down and lose its hold. For a nice touch, drizzle a little dulce de leche or caramel sauce over a fully cooked pie shell. Spoon the filling into the shell, then top with lightly sweetened whipped cream, and scatter some toasted, chopped walnuts or pecans on top. Lightly drizzle pure maple syrup over the whipped cream, and serve.

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everyday maple-oat sticky cake Fancy layer cakes have nothing on this “everyday” cake sweetened with maple syrup and topped with a broiled maple glaze. The oats are a wholesome touch and give the cake an appetizing nubby texture (not to mention a credible excuse for having a piece for breakfast). Serve as-is, or with a scoop of vanilla or butter pecan ice cream. Serves 9 to 12 FOR THE CAKE 1/2 cup (4 oz.) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the pan 1 cup old-fashioned rolled oats 1 cup buttermilk 1/4 cup milk 11/2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp. baking powder 1/2 tsp. baking soda 1/2 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg 1 cup sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1/4 cup pure maple syrup 11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract FOR THE BROILED ICING 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar 1/3 cup pure maple syrup 1/4 cup heavy cream 4 Tbs (2 oz.) unsalted butter 2/3 cup sweetened or unsweetened flaked coconut MAKE THE CAKE

Butter and lightly flour a 10-inch round cake pan. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, stir together the oats, buttermilk, and milk. Let stand for 20 to 30 minutes. In another bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg, and whisk to combine. Set aside.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, beat the remaining butter with an electric mixer on medium speed; gradually add the sugar. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Beat in the maple syrup and vanilla.

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Add half of the dry ingredients to the butter mixture,and stir just until combined. Stir in the soaked oat mixture until well combined. Fold in the remaining dry ingredients until well combined.

Pour the batter into the pan, and spread evenly. Bake on the middle oven rack until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool for 30 minutes.

Use a toothpick to poke 20 to 30 holes in the cake.

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiling element, and preheat the broiler.

MAKE THE BROILED ICING

In a small saucepan, combine the brown sugar, maple syrup, cream, and butter.

Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Boil for 15 seconds, then remove from the heat and stir in the coconut.

Place the cake on a baking sheet, and evenly spoon the icing over the cake. Broil the cake, until the top is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. (Watch carefully and, if necessary, use the baking sheet to adjust the pan to broil evenly.) Transfer the cake to a wire rack, and let cool 10 minutes before serving. Cover and refrigerate leftovers; serve at room temperature, or briefly warm in a low oven.

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maple-glazed all-pear pie I love a pear pie, especially when it’s sweetened with maple syrup. This double-crust pie, a fall favorite, gets a double dose of maple—once in the filling, and again in the Maple Confectioners’ Sugar Glaze that’s drizzled on top. Use pears that yield to gentle thumb pressure. My preference is for yellow Bartlett pears, but I’ve used others with success. The Maple Confectioners’ Sugar Glaze is also delicious spooned over quick breads, and is especially good on baked goods made with pumpkin or sweet potatoes. Serves 8 DOUBLE CRUST PIE DOUGH 21/2 cups all-purpose flour 1 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar 1 tsp. salt 1 cup (8 oz.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes FILLING 6 cups peeled, cored, and sliced ripe pears 1/3 cup pure maple syrup 21/2 Tbs. cornstarch 2 Tbs. sugar Pinch of salt 1 Tbs. minced crystallized ginger or 3/4 tsp. ground ginger 1/2 tsp. cinnamon 11/2 Tbs. lemon juice 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 egg beaten with 1 tsp. water MAPLE CONFECTIONERS’ SUGAR GLAZE 3 Tbs. unsalted butter 1/3 cup pure maple syrup 11/2 cups confectioners’ sugar MAKE THE DOUBLE CRUST PIE DOUGH

In a food processor, combine the flour, confectioners’ sugar, and salt. Pulse several times, to mix. Scatter the butter over the flour mixture, then pulse until it is broken into small pieces no larger than lentils, about 10 times.

Stream the water through the feed tube, pulsing as you add it. When all the water is added, continue to pulse, just until the dough starts to form clumps (the dough should not ball up around the blade).

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, and form a mound. Divide the dough almost in half, making one half—for the bottom crust—a little larger.

Form each half into a ball, kneading once or twice to smooth the dough. Flatten the balls into disks about ¾ inch thick, and wrap with plastic wrap. (Note which disk is the bottom.) Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before using. (Makes enough dough for one 9x9½-inch double crust pie.)

Roll the larger dough half into a circle about 12½ inches in diameter. Ease the pastry into a 9-inch deep-dish pie pan, and let the excess pastry hang over the edge. Cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.

Place the pie on the bottom rack, and bake for 30 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 375°F. Carefully transfer the pie to a baking sheet, and move to the center rack, rotating front to back. Bake until the crust is golden brown and thick juice bubbles through the steam vents, 30 to 40 minutes.

Transfer the pie to a wire rack to cool completely. Drizzle with Maple Confectioners’ Sugar Glaze.

MAPLE CONFECTIONERS’ SUGAR GLAZE

In a small saucepan, heat the butter and maple syrup over medium-low heat until the butter is melted, then add the confectioners’ sugar, and whisk until smooth. Let cool 1 minute, then use a spoon to drizzle over the pie. If the glaze starts to set or becomes too thick for drizzling, warm it briefly over very low heat.

Store any leftover glaze in a covered bowl for 1 week.

MAKE THE FILLING

Position oven racks so one is in the lowest position, and the other is in the middle.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, combine the pears and maple syrup. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch, sugar, and salt. Add the ginger, cinnamon, lemon juice, and lemon zest, and stir well..

Roll the other dough half into a circle about 11 inches in diameter. Moisten the rim of the chilled bottom pastry with a pastry brush. Spoon the pear filling into the shell, and smooth the top, so no fruit sticks up. Place the top pastry on the filling, and press the edge to seal.

Use a paring knife to trim the pastry even with the edge of the pan, then crimp the edge with the tines of a fork. Or, press the top and bottom pastry together, fold the to pastry under, and flute as desired.

Lightly brush the top pastry with the beaten egg mixture. Use a paring knife to cut several steam vents in the top, twisting the knife to expand the holes a little.

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Test Kitchen Tips | Techniques | Equipment | Ingredients | Glossary

EQUIPMENT

French bakers create those perfectly round loaves of bread called boules (“ball”) by proofing the dough in a linen-lined basket called a banneton. An added benefit of the breathability of the basket is that moisture is wicked away from the dough as it rises, which creates a crisper, browner crust. If you are a recent convert to sourdough and plan on being a baker for years to come, you can find bannetons in specialty kitchen shops and online. Or, simply improvise one by lining a colander with a linen kitchen towel. Liberally dust the towel with flour to prevent sticking before placing the dough in it. If you’re using the colander set up, place it in a loose plastic bag to proof, as the colander allows more air to reach the dough than a real banneton.

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CAROLEGOMEZ/GETTY IMAGES

Make a perfectly round loaf

INGREDIENT

Pears The best way to judge ripeness of a pear is to gently press the neck of the fruit near the stem with your thumb; if the flesh gives, the pear is ready to eat. A ripe pear will also often give off a delicious, sweet aroma. For cooking, pears should generally be “firm-ripe,” or just at the beginning of the ripening window. In this case, look for ripe fruit that yields only slightly when pressed near the stem. If the pears are very hard when you buy them, they may need several days to ripen. You can hasten the process by storing them in a closed paper bag. The main varieties of pears are:

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SATURATED/GETTY IMAGES; JKUNNEN/GETTY IMAGES (2); SEANDNAD/GETTY IMAGES; DOUGLAS SACHA

Grading maple syrup ANJOU

BOSC

This thin-skin, egg-shaped pear can be bright green or deep crimson. It’s juicy, with a delicate flavor and creamy texture. When firm, it’s great for poaching, grilling, baking, and braising.

When ripe, it’s best enjoyed raw.

Known for its slender shape and russet skin, the Bosc has a dense, grainy texture with a hint of nuttiness. Even fully ripe, this pear retains its firm bite, making it perfect for baking or cooking.

FORELLE

SECKEL

Bright yellow-green with red speckles, this small pear has a round base that tapers evenly to a short neck. It’s sweet, pleasantly juicy, and crisp, and holds up well to cooking.

Seckel pears stand about 2½ inches tall and are almost as big around, with an olive complexion and a beautiful crimson blush. Also known as sugar pears, the flesh is crisp, moist, and very sweet.

It’s ideal for poaching, braising, roasting, canning, or pickling.

The grade given to maple syrup is determined by its color and density. Maple sap becomes syrup once it has reached a certain level of sugar concentration.

Early-season sap tends to have a higher concentration of sugar to begin with, and the sap becomes more watery as the season progresses. This late-season watery sap has to be boiled longer to get to the right concentration of sugar, which also caramelizes the sugars further, making darker, thicker, bolder-flavored syrup— grade B. Other factors, like weather and terroir, play a role in flavor, but ultimately, the color of the syrup and the amount of light it allows through determine grade.

In the United States, maple syrup can be grade A light amber, grade A medium amber, grade A dark amber, or grade B. In Canada, you’ll find No. 1 extra light, light, and medium; No. 2 amber; and No. 3 dark.

And just to complicate matters, states and provinces can set their own grading systems; in Vermont, for example, grade A light amber is called Vermont Fancy.

The grades don’t reflect quality and have no impact on price. They just indicate the intensity of the flavor.

All of this information can make buying maple syrup a little confusing, but the thing to remember is that the darker a syrup is in color, the thicker it will be and the more intense its flavor.

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T E S T K I TC H E N

INGREDIENT

Fortified wines With personalities that range from dry and fine, to smoky-caramel, to rich and raisiny and sweet, fortified wines add elegant distinction to all kinds of savory dishes and desserts. Port, sherry, Madeira, and Marsala, the most familiar types of fortified wines, share a key production technique: Each gets a boost of brandy or pure alcohol during or after fermentation. The timing determines how sweet the fortified wine will be: The earlier it’s added, the sweeter the wine will be. On the dry side: Fino sherry, Sercial Madeira, and secco (dry) Marsala. On the sweet side: cream and Amoroso sherry, Boal and Malmsey Madeira, dolce (sweet) Marsala. All ports—whether vintage (the best), tawny, or ruby (the lowest quality)—are sweet.

RECIPE

Compound butter wine and boil until completely evaporated, 5 to 8 minutes.

Stir in ¼ cup each chopped fresh parsley, chopped fresh thyme leaves, and chopped fresh sage leaves. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate. When chilled, combine the herb mixture with ½ lb. unsalted (room temperature) butter in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium until blended, about 1 minute. On a large piece of plastic wrap, shape the herb butter into a log. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until firm.

TOP: JIM CORNFIELD/GETTY IMGAES

Butter flavored with herbs, cheese, wine, garlic, or shallot— among other things—adds high flavor impact with very little effort. This Three-Herb Butter can be tucked under the skin of a holiday turkey to make the meat incredibly flavorful and succulent, dolloped on a just-seared steak, or smeared on a slice of warm, just-baked bread. To make it, melt 1 Tbs. unsalted butter in a large skillet over medium until it begins to foam. Add ½ cup finely chopped shallots and cook until soft and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add ½ cup dry white

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INGREDIENT

Sichuan peppercorns A common spice in Chinese cuisine, Sichuan pepper is not related to black or white peppercorns (Piper nigrum) but is rather the reddishbrown seedpod of an entirely different plant (genus Zanthoxylum). It is instantly recognizable for the tingly sensation it produces on the tongue.

Though it’s not spicy in its own right, it is often paired with chiles in Sichuan cuisine, creating a spicy-and-numbing effect. It is also a component of Chinese five-spice powder.

INGREDIENT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT; ARTPARADIGM/GETTY IMAGES; FOTOGRAPHICABASICA/GETTY IMAGES; ARINAHABICH/GETTY IMAGES

Miso The salty, savory flavors of miso— fermented soybean paste—are essential to numerous dishes like soups, dressings, glazes, and pickles.

TYPES OF MISO Variables like the type of koji (a type of mold), the ratio of soybeans to koji, salt, and length of fermentation lead to varieties of miso ranging in color from pale golden yellow to rich chocolate brown. Miso comes in two broad categories: light (typically

called white, yellow, or sweet miso) and dark (red, brown, barley, or soybean miso). The lighter the miso, the sweeter and more delicate its flavor. Light miso is good in salads and dressings, and with lighter foods like fish, chicken, and vegetables.

Dark miso, which is fermented longer, will be saltier and “meatier.”

Its rich, robust flavor is good for adding depth to soups and sauces.

Try it with root vegetables, beans, or winter squash.

EQUIPMENT

Dutch ovens Every kitchen should be equipped with a Dutch oven. This type of pot can be used both on the stove top and in the oven. It’s especially useful for braising and stewing, which usually begin with browning on the stove before going into the oven, where the tight-fitting lid helps seal in steam to create a self-basting atmosphere.

Typically, a second stint on the stove top follows the oven period to reduce the cooking liquid to a saucy consistency. Most high-quality cookware manufacturers offer good Dutch ovens, which may also be called “flameproof casseroles.” In the Test Kitchen, we’re especially fond of our collection of Le Creuset casseroles, which are cast iron with an enamel coating. The cast iron gives you great heat retention, while the coating makes the pan nonreactive and easier to care for. While they come in a variety of sizes, a 5½- or 6-qt. pot is the most useful to have.

Not too big and not too small, it will accommodate most recipes.

77

T E S T K I TC H E N

RECIPE

Make your own crème fraîche Homemade crème fraîche isn’t as thick as the commercial product, but it tastes terrific. We developed this recipe using ultra-pasteurized heavy cream because it’s most widely available. If you can find regular pasteurized heavy cream, use it: your results will likely be thicker. Also, if it’s a warm day, the cream may thicken in a shorter amount of time.

Heat 1 cup heavy cream to 80°F to 85°F, being careful not to overheat (1). Transfer to a clean container and stir in 1 cup buttermilk (with active cultures) (2). Cover with plastic wrap, and let sit in a warm spot at room temperature until slightly thickened, about 24 hours (3). Chill well before using. After chilling, the crème fraîche should be about as firm as loose yogurt (4). Refrigerate up to 10 days.

1.

2.

3.

4.

TIP

Don’t throw away that scraped vanilla bean pod. Even though the seeds are gone, the pod still has something to give. The simplest thing is to stash the empty bean halves in a container of sugar for stirring into coffee, flavoring whipped cream, and using in baking. Or, add to a bottle of orange liqueur, vodka, or brandy, and let stand. Use for sipping, cooking, or baking.

78

FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

VANILLA: FLOORTJE/GETTY IMAGES

A second life for empty vanilla beans

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18. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager, or owner: Chris Susil, VP/ Planning & Analysis. Date: 9/21/2020. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).

Nutrition Recipe

Calories (kcal)

Fat Cal (kcal)

Total Fat (g)

Sat Fat (g)

Poly Fat (g)

Mono Fat (g)

Chol (mg)

Sodium (mg)

Carb (g)

Fiber (g)

Sugar (g)

Protein (g) 43

MAKE IT TONIGHT, P. 12 Creamy Pasta with Turkey and Crispy Crumbs

702

315

35

20

3

9

198

537

51

3

4

Bacon and Pear Autumn Salad

248

126

14

6

2

6

34

432

21

6

7

11

Savory Chard Pie

556

297

33

16

2

12

42

1119

56

1

6

13

Root Vegetable and Pomegranate Couscous

492

153

17

2

3

11

0

514

77

13

16

13

Herb-Rubbed Pork with Squash and Grapes

275

81

9

2

1

6

73

355

24

4

10

26

Arctic Char with Green Olive and Lemon Dressing

303

189

21

3

3

14

0

543

2

1

1

28

Chicken with Escarole and Warm Mustard Dressing

294

153

17

3

2

11

83

428

8

5

3

27

Golden Turmeric Fish

268

81

9

6

1

1

52

553

16

0

9

29

Red Curry-Lime Sweet Potato Soup

330

135

15

10

3

1

0

363

44

6

14

3

Moroccan Beef and Pumpkin Bake

370

180

20

8

1

9

78

428

32

2

6

16

ON THE MENU: CLASSIC CHRISTMAS, P. 22 Fruit-Stuffed Pork Roast

317

63

7

3

1

3

80

123

36

3

27

27

Cheesy Garlic Potato Gratin

352

225

25

15

1

6

76

464

20

2

3

13

Roasted Chicories with Brown Butter

193

144

16

5

1

9

16

264

11

3

3

4

Eggnog Baked Alaska

457

135

15

6

4

4

58

223

75

1

63

7

Citrus Sidecar

194

0

0

0

0

0

0

1

15

0

5

0

Burnt-Orange Añejo Sour

262

0

0

0

0

0

0

40

7

1

4

3

Limoncello Cosmo

142

0

0

0

0

0

0

1

8

0

7

0

Pink Grapefruit Martini

159

0

0

0

0

0

0

1

6

0

5

1

Raspberry-Prosecco Cocktail

109

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

8

0

4

0

Pomegranate Ginger Beer Cocktail

239

0

0

0

0

0

0

4

28

1

25

0

Clementine-Cranberry Mocktail

79

0

0

0

0

0

0

22

21

0

18

0

Virgin Strawberry Moscow Mule

25

0

0

0

0

0

0

61

6

1

4

1

Pomegranate Spritzers

56

0

0

0

0

0

0

7

14

0

12

0

Olive Oil-Fried Almonds

120

99

11

1

2

7

0

144

3

2

1

4

Parmigiano-Pistachio Frico

110

72

8

3

1

2.5

18

384

4

0

0

7

Spicy Spanish Olives

89

81

9

0

0

0

0

806

1

0

0

0

Cider-Brined Turkey with Apple Butter and Sage

330

126

14

7

2

4

163

1007

6

0

5

45

Roasted Pollo Asado-Style Spatchcock Turkey

231

63

7

2

2

3

133

416

0

0

0

42

Soy-Miso Glazed Turkey Breast

348

135

15

4

5

4

102

952

11

1

8

40

CHEERS!, P. 26

TURKEY BY THE CLOCK, P. 29

HARVEST SALADS, P. 34 Endive, Walnut, and Blue Cheese Salad with Port Vinaigrette

431

261

29

6

13

7

14

299

34

8

18

9

Harvest Grain Salad Bowl

977

297

33

3

20

7

0

811

159

16

82

17

Kale and Brussels Sprouts Salad

786

468

52

14

16

17

39

927

67

12

39

17

Sourdough Focaccia

236

27

3

0

0

2

0

302

43

2

0

7

Savory Pancake

173

72

8

1

2

5

0

20

23

2

0

4

SUCCESS WITH SOURDOUGH, P. 40

Sourdough Snacking Cake

416

72

8

4

5

11

63

440

51

4

28

8

Sourdough Discard Biscuits

304

162

18

11

1

5

71

422

31

2

2

6

Celery Root Salad with Celery, Flat-Leaf Parsley, and Capers

167

108

12

2

1

9

0

496

12

3

3

2

Sweet Potato Purée with Maple-Miso Butter

369

108

12

7

1

3

32

577

61

9

16

6

Roasted Carrots and Parsnips with Almond-Herb Sauce

475

333

38

5

5

27

0

282

34

10

11

4

Sheet-Pan Roasted Root Vegetables with Lemon and Thyme

167

45

5

1

1

3

0

133

29

7

12

4

Classic Hasselback Potatoes

239

63

7

1

1

5

0

152

41

3

1

5

Hasselback Potatoes with Seasoned Bread Crumbs

210

72

8

5

0

2

20

425

32

4

2

4

Cheesy Hasselback Potatoes

261

153

17

11

0

2

42

254

24

2

2

4

THE ROOT OF THE MATTER, P. 48

ALL HAIL THE HASSELBACK, P. 52

SAVORY PORK STEWS, P. 56 Drunken Greek Pork Stew

448

162

18

4

2

10

120

484

16

3

5

46

New Mexican Green Chile Pork Stew with Corn, Queso Fresco, and Pickled Red Onion

548

180

20

6

3

9

159

796

35

4

9

58

Szechan Pork Stew with Ginger and Chiles

320

135

15

3

3

7

101

882

9

1

2

37

Southern Pork Stew with Collards and Black-Eyed Peas

482

180

20

5

3

11

116

1117

30

6

4

44

362

225

25

12

2.4

8.4

215

674

14

2

5

20

Apple-Walnut Maple Blondies

358

180

20

11

3

5

67

100

44

1

27

3

Maple Cup Pudding

336

162

18

10

1

6

226

196

36

0

28

7

Everyday Maple-Oat Sticky Cake

516

198

22

13

1

6

92

313

75

2

51

7

Maple-Glazed All-Pear Pie

564

234

26

16

1

8

90

327

77

4

37

6

BREAD PUDDING FOR SUPPER, P. 62 Savory Bread Pudding*

MAPLE ENDINGS, P. 66

*NOTE: The nutritional analysis for this recipe is based on the use of challah, bacon, broccoli, and Gruyère cheese.

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingredients with measured amounts are included;

ingredients without specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is used.

When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified,

the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and 1/8 tsp. salt and 1/16 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.

79

Cover Eggnog Baked Alaska ������������������� 24

Breakfast & Brunch Orange and Pomegranate Overnight Oats ���������������������������������� 9 Savory Bread Pudding ����������������� 64

Endive, Walnut, and Blue Cheese Salad with Port Vinaigrette����������35

Roasted Chicories with Brown Butter��������������������������������������������������25

Harvest Grain Salad Bowl ����������� 39

Pomegranate-Glazed Sweet Potatoes ���������������������������������������������� 9

Kale and Brussels Sprouts Salad �������������������������������������������������� 36 Wilted Chicken Salad with Pomegranate Dressing ������������������� 9

Sheet-Pan Roasted Root Vegetables with Lemon and Thyme ����������������������������������������������� 49 Sweet Potato Purée with MapleMiso Butter ��������������������������������������� 51

Breads & Baked Goods

Beef, Pork & Lamb Drunken Greek Pork Stew������������57

Savory Pancakes���������������������������� 45

Desserts & Sweets

Fruit-Stuffed Pork Roast ��������������23

Apple-Walnut Maple Blondies �� 68

Sourdough Focaccia �������������������� 44

Herb-Rubbed Pork with Squash and Grapes ��������������������������������������� 15

Double Crust Pie Dough���������������73

Sourdough Discard Biscuits �������47 Sourdough Snacking Cake ��������� 46

Drinks & Starters

Moroccan Beef and Pumpkin Bake�����������������������������������������������������19

Eggnog Baked Alaska ������������������� 24 Everyday Maple-Oat Sticky Cake ��������������������������������������������������� 70

Burnt-Orange Añejo Sour �����������27

New Mexican Green Chile Pork Stew with Corn, Queso Fresco, and Pickled Red Onion ��58

Citrus Sidecar ��������������������������������� 26

Savory Chard Pie ����������������������������18

Maple Cup Pudding����������������������� 69

Clementine-Cranberry Mocktail����������������������������������������������28

Southern Pork Stew with Collards and Black-Eyed Peas���������������������61

Maple-Glazed All-Pear Pie�����������73

Limoncello Cosmo ����������������������� 26 Olive Oil-Fried Almonds ���������������27

Szechuan Pork Stew with Ginger and Chiles����������������������������������������� 60

Parmigiano-Pistachio Frico ����������������������������������������������������27

Poultry

Pink Grapefruit Martini������������������27 Pomegranate, Cranberry, and Brie Bruschetta ������������������������������������������ 9 Pomegranate-Ginger Beer Cocktail ����������������������������������������������27

Cider-Brined Turkey with Apple Butter and Sage ����������������������������� 30

Maple Confectioners‘ Sugar Glaze ���������������������������������������������������73

Macerated Grapefruit with Pistachios and Pomegranate ������� 9

Condiments & Sauces Compound Butter �������������������������76 Crème Fraîche ���������������������������������78

Creamy Pasta with Turkey and Crispy Crumbs �������������������������������� 17 Roasted Pollo Asado-Style Spatchcock Turkey ������������������������33

Pomegranate Spritzers����������������28 Soy-Miso Glazed Turkey Breast ��� 31

VEGETARIAN: May contain eggs and dairy ingredients

Spiced Pomegranate-Honey Shrub ���������������������������������������������������� 9

Meatless Mains

MAKE AHEAD: Can be

Spicy Spanish Olives ���������������������27

Red Curry-Lime Sweet Potato Soup ���������������������������������������������������� 21

Virgin Strawberry Moscow Mule �����������������������������������������������������28

Root Vegetable and Pomegranate Couscous ������������������������������������������14

Raspberry-Prosecco Cocktail �� 26

Seafood

Side Dishes

Arctic Char with Green Olive and Lemon Dressing ������������������������������18

Cheesy Garlic Potato Gratin �������23

Golden Turmeric Fish ������������������ 20

completely prepared ahead (may need handsoff cooking, baking, or reheating to serve) QUICK: Under 30 minutes

Cheesy Hasselback Potatoes ����55 Classic Hasselback Potatoes ���� 54

Salads

Hasselback Potatoes with Herbs and Seasoned Bread Crumbs��� 54

Bacon and Pear Autumn Salad��16 Celery Root Salad with Celery, Flat-Leaf Parsley, and Capers ���� 51 Chicken with Escarole and Warm Mustard Dressing����������������������������14

80

FINE COOKING • NOV/DEC 2020

Roasted Carrots and Parsnips with Almond-Herb Sauce ����������� 50

What to drink with what’s in this issue Select recipes in this issue include pairings by our drinks editor, Jill Silverman Hough.

Fine Cooking® (ISSN 1072-5121), November/December 2020, No. 167. Fine Cooking is published five times a year in January, March, May, August, and November by Meredith Corp., 1716 Locust St., Des Moines, IA 50309-3023.

Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines, IA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to Fine Cooking, P.O. Box 37508, Boone, IA, 50037-0508. In Canada: Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement Number 40069223; Canadian BN 12348 2887 RT. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Fine Cooking is a registered trademark in the United States. © Meredith Corp. 2020. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.

Recipe Index

THE JOY IS IN THE GIVING

MADE WITH MILK FROM GRASS-FED COWS T H AT G R A Z E O N T H E LUS H PA ST U RES O F I RE L A N D.