Nespresso Magazine #26 Rio de Janeiro - English edition

RIO DE JANEIRO Spring-Summer 2016 € 5,90 SFR 7,00 £ 4.90 $ 8.00

ZANINI DE ZANINE

ENLIGHTENED BY DESIGN

CITY GUIDE CLUB MEMBERS’ FAVOURITE PLACES

COFFEE COUNTRY INSIDE THE PLANTATIONS OF BRAZIL

GOURMET MOMENTS 10 COLOURFUL CARIOCA CONCOCTIONS

EDITORIAL Jean-Marc Duvoisin

RELISHING RIO DEAR CLUB MEMBERS,

Our latest issue takes you to a land of sky, sea and rainforest, to the beating heart of Rio de Janeiro, that vibrant metropolis beneath the gaze of Christ the Redeemer perched atop Corcovado. For Nespresso, this city was an essential port of call, as today we celebrate ten years of activity in Brazil, the world’s leading coffee producer with an incomparable terroir..

A few hours from Rio, in the hills of Minas Gerais, the country’s history comes alive in a splendid fazenda that is characteristic of the Brazilian coffee plantations first founded in the 19th century. These testaments to the country’s colonial past have made their location the home of the most prestigious coffee varieties, such as Yellow Bourbon, an outstanding Arabica grown by the fourth generation of producers. That is just one gem in a treasure chest that inspires Nespresso to hone the personalities and superior quality of its Grands Crus. Envivo, the latest to join the range, embodies these same high standards. This particularly intense Lungo is the perfect partner for a bracing wakeup, as is the new PRODIGIO Machine, a connected wonder that you can program from your smartphone.

In the pages of this issue, innovation dovetails with inspiration, often prompted by the bounteous nature of Brazil. Our Citizen of Honour, Zanini de Zanine Caldas, embraces this nature by using another local resource, wood, to craft his unique, sleek, streamlined furniture. Chef Roberta Sudbrack does, as well, through her love for the ingredients of her native land, lifting her to the pinnacles of international epicureanism.

Brazil’s tremendous growth is rooted in its magnificent terroir, as illustrated in the legend of Jacinto, a labourer who came over from Europe in the early 20th century to work in the coffee industry. This character’s life of toil contrasts sharply with the ambiance felt today on the beaches of Ipanema or Copacabana, where the rhythm of life is a joyous one: the brisk clacking of the ball against the frescobol bat, a game now officially declared part of the nation’s heritage, about which you will also learn in this issue.

May your reading and your coffee both offer you memorable moments.

JEAN-MARC DUVOISIN

Chief Executive Officer, Nestlé Nespresso S.A.

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Canapé ANDY et LA BIBLIOTHÈQUE FIL. Pierre Paulin.

Créés et fabriqués en France.

Catalogue: www.ligneroset.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Our Team BORIS CORIDIAN Editor-in-Chief

A contributor to French magazines and newspapers such as Vanity Fair, Le Monde and Les Échos, Boris is interested in how gastronomy represents contemporary society.

He therefore travels the world in search of noteworthy restaurants that will serve as inspiration.

His favourite coffee moment: “That first sip of the morning. An Envivo Lungo for an energetic start to the day.”

GUILLAUME JAN Journalist and writer

This man, a true world traveller, has spent time in almost every coffeeproducing country on the planet, from Indonesia to Peru, from Yemen to Cuba. “Since I came back to Rio, I’ve enjoyed steeping myself in the carioca ambiance with a Dulsão do Brasil while listening to the excellent compilation album Postonove by DJ Gringo da Parada.”

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE HUSSON Photographer

The mastermind behind many portraits and stories for the press, advertising projects and quite often big-screen works, this Marseille native adores meeting new people, whether they are in the limelight or the shadows, all of whom he deftly captures with his camera. According to this globetrotter, “Sharing an espresso is the best way to enjoy a conversation!”

NESPRESSO MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY THE NESTLÉ NESPRESSO S.A. GROUP Avenue de Rhodanie 40 1007 Lausanne - Switzerland PUBLICATION DIRECTOR Jean-Marc Duvoisin.

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Lise Peneveyre.

CONCEPT/PRODUCTION LAGARDÈRE CUSTOM PUBLISHING, 9, place Marie-Jeanne Bassot, 92300 Levallois-Perret, France.

Tel.: +33 (0)1 41 34 93 63 EXECUTIVE MANAGER Pascal Laroche.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Boris Coridian.

ART DIRECTION Virginie Oudard, based on an original model

by Alexandre “Daltex” Nativel.

STUDIO MANAGER Matthieu Carré.

COORDINATORS Nadine Male Hershkovitch with Anne Pierrot-Plénard.

EDITORIAL SECRETARIES Marie-Françoise Dufief with Lucie Meyrou.

CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Éric André, Mickaël A. Bandassak, Jérôme Bilic, Célia Callois, Anne Chaperon, Sergio Da Silva, Alexandra Dejean, Stéphanie Durteste, Nadine Gonzalez, Nadia Hamam Marty, Jean-Christophe Husson, Icinori, Guillaume Jan, Grégoire Kalt, Marie Leteuré, Kim Levy, Jean-Jacques Pallot, Stéphane Remael,Virginie Simon, Florent Tanet, Damien Vignaux.

NADIA HAMAM MARTY Journalist

VIRGINIE OUDARD Art Director

After working extensively with fashion magazines, Virginie broadened her professional scope and became an artistic director. She believes in encapsulating information in simple, aesthetically balanced visuals to give each project high impact and unique appeal. “A cup of Bukeela ka Ethiopia is often just what I need for the perfect inspiration!”

MICKAËL A. BANDASSAK Photographer

Based in Montreal for more than two years, Mickael worked with the greatest restaurants in that capital, as well as with many American publications like The New York Times and Town and Country.

“During my stay in Rio, I sipped my cafezinho looking out over the ocean, sitting on the terrace of a quiosque at Post 9.”

Between her Algerian homeland and her adopted Brazilian abode, Nadia eagerly explores the world’s broad palette of tastes and places. In Paris, when not writing, she nurtures her passion for living in style.

2016 has already seen her footprints left at Mauritius, Pontal do Maceio and Rio de Janeiro. Her coffee moment? “Waking up gently with a Linizio Lungo, served black.”

TRANSLATION TagLine.

PHOTOLITHO Lagardère Publicité.

PRINTER Mohn media Mohndruck Gmbh.

This magazine is printed on paper certified by:

Copyright © 2016 Nestlé Nespresso S.A. All rights reserved. Nespresso, the names of the various Nespresso coffee varieties and the Nespresso logos mentioned in the Nespresso Magazine are trademarks of the Société des Produits Nestlé S.A. that may be registered in certain countries.

DR.

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CONTENTS Spring-Summer 2016

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P.32

P.54

P.46

P.60

Mickaël A. Bandassak, Jean-Christophe Husson, Jérôme Bilic, Stéphane Remael, Grégoire Kalt.

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P.92

P.84 3

EDITORIAL

NOW 8

CALENDAR

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THE N MOMENT

CULTURE ACROSS THE PLANET UM CAFEZINHO POR FAVOR!

DESTINATION: RIO DE JANEIRO 16

SIX CLUB MEMBERS SHARE

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PARTY TIME

SAMBA!

CHEF TO WATCH

ROBERTA SUDBRACK

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AN EXTRAORDINARY STORY

102 INNOVATION

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TERROIR TO WATCH

LAND OF THE FAZENDAS

JACINTO: THE COFFEE STRONGMAN THE NEW ARTISANS OF TASTE

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STREET STYLE

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CULT OBJECT

MADE IN FAVELA

MUST SEE TO

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CITIZEN OF HONOUR

ZANINI DE ZANINE, ECODESIGNER SPORT DISCOVERY

LET THE GAMES BEGIN

NESPRESSO TOUCH

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COFFEE CULTURE

GAME, SET AND BATS 72 HIDDEN TREASURE URBAN JUNGLE

10 REASONS GO TO RIO

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GRAND CRU ON THE ROCKS LIFESTYLE ENVIVO LUNGO: WAKEUP CALL 100 DATA BRAZIL, LAND OF COFFEE

CITY GUIDE THEIR FAVOURITE PLACES

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44 46

GOURMET COFFEE

TROPICAL DELIGHTS

NESPRESSO & YOU 84

GREEN COFFEE’S BELGIAN PORT OF CALL QUALITY

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PRODIGIO, CYBER CAFÉ

104 SELECTION

MACHINES & COLLECTIONS RECIPES

FOOD-COFFEE PAIRINGS INFORMATION

ADDRESSES AND RIO DE JANEIRO CITY GUIDE MAP COFFEE MARK

ZANINI DE ZANINE

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NOW Rio de Janeiro

RIO NATURAL MODERNIST

CREATIVE LATITUDES

When the Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer (1907-2012) designed his Rio house in 1953, few initially grasped that he was forging a distinctive signature that would permeate the rest of his monumental work.

The “Casa das Canoas”, which is open to the public, displays unprecedented harmony between concrete, mountain, water and virgin forest. The windows remove every obstacle between the work and the natural environs. The home’s curved lines imbue the two floors with the city’s easy-going lifestyle, and that microarchitecture is

WHETHER IN ART, DESIGN OR FASHION, INSPIRATION CARES NOTHING FOR TIME ZONES. WHEREVER ON EARTH YOU MAY BE, YOU WILL FIND SOMETHING TO APPRECIATE IN OUR CULTURAL CALENDAR.

By Nadia Hamam

mirrored in the monumental presence of the greater structure. It is a messenger, reminding its admirers that, before being the father of Brasilia, the master of concrete was a child of Rio, the place where he grew up and designed his first projects.

Large and small works unfold in a satisfying Niemeyer display: the former embody the vision of a builder under communist influence; the latter, particularly private residences, shake loose notions of weight to give expression to human sensuality that is unreservedly cariocan.

> “Casa das Canoas”, estrada das Canoas, 2310 São Conrado.Tuesday through Friday, 1:00-5:00 p.m.

Patricia Parinejad.

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NOW Americas

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LOS ANGELES LESS IS MORE

Sketch me if you can. And so Dutch design studio United Nude designed the “LO Res Car” (for “Low-Resolution Car”), an electric and futuristic two-seater inspired by the legendary Lamborghini Countach. The stringently simplified polygonal shape was developed by successively lowering the resolution of the original motorised muse.

The prototype will be exhibited in Los Angeles in 2016. > www.unitednude.com

NEW YORK ODES TO BEAUTY

The Cooper-Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum celebrates its Design Triennal in 2016 by exploring contemporary expressions of beauty in all fields of design. Some 250 works by 63 designers from around the world unfold over two floors in a dazzling display for this newly renovated museum. > Through 21 August. www.cooperhewitt.org

SAN FRANCISCO ART

W

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OF THE EST AFTER TWO YEARS OF RENOVATIONS BY NORWAY’S SNØHETTA FIRM , THE SAN OF MODERN ART (SFMOMA) HAS REOPENED WITH THREE TIMES THE ORIGINAL EXHIBITION SPACE. THE PRESTIGIOUS MUSEUM EXPANDED ITS FAMED FISCHER COLLECTI ON, ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXTENSIVE PRIVATE COLLECT IONS OF MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART. IT ALSO BOASTS THE JOHN AND LISA PRITZKER CENTER FOR PHOTOGRAPHY, HAPPY HOME TO SUPERB DISPLAYS, INCLUDING THE FINEST COLLECTION OF JAPANESE PHOTOGRAPHY OUTSIDE JAPAN ITSELF. > www.sfmoma.or

FRANCISCO MUSEUM

g

Cooper Hewitt.

RIO CHIC KIBBUTZ Mama Shelter, the original hotel concept, opens a new location in June in an enormous garden in the Santa Teresa district. Its multiple buildings (including one that might ultimately be traversed by the tramway) have artistically decorated bedrooms, a living room with 12-metre ceiling, and even a concert arena. All totally tropical, of course, though the prices will be far from savage. > www.mamashelter.com

NOW Europe UNITED KINGDOM TATE MODERN 2.0

In June, the Tate Modern unveils a new tower designed

by Swiss architects Herzog and de Meuron. The tower’s 70 metres increase the museum’s space by 60%.

For its opening exhibition, the Georgia O’Keeffe retrospective retraces the work of one of the figureheads of American modern art. > From 6 July through 30 October. www.tate.org.uk

ITALY PRECIOUS PLASTIC

Catalan designer Eugeni Quitllet treats plastic as a precious material. Initially designed in crystal for Baccarat, the “I Shine” vase was ultimately produced by Kartell, specialising in upscale plastic.

The vase’s innovative moulding scatters light and colours just as crystal does, but at more affordable prices. > www.kartell.com

UAL THINK-

STUDIO, THE BRAND LA FONCTION APPLIES CONCEPT FRANCE GLOBETROTTER. CREATED BY THE PIKS DESIGN NO. 1”, RELEASED IN 2013, PROTECTS YOUR LAPTOP AND ENCOUR-

ING TO PRODUCING OBJECTS. MOBILE OFFICE “LA FONCTION ÉLÈNE NÉPOMIATZI AROUND THE WORLD. IN 2016, PARISIAN DESIGNER H AGES FOCUS. IT HAS EARNED A PLACE AT MANY SHOPS NUMBERED PIECES. UNIQUE IVE F .

RANCE F IN E WAYS OF WORKING. HANDMAD REINTERPRETS THIS “OBJECT-SPACE” TO REFLECT NEW

> www.la-fonction.com

Gift of The Burnett Foundation © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.

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NOW Europe FRANCE DIONYSIAN CITY

The City of Bordeaux is now home to a Cité du Vin on the banks of the Garonne.

Part theme park, part museum, this winefocused institution explores 9,000 years of oenological history. Design of the bold building was assigned to XTU, a Parisian architectural firm, and the interior displays to London agency Casson Mann Limited. > www.laciteduvin.com

FRANCE FLAX FORCE Fibres of flax, carbon or Kevlar are what strengthen this scratch-resistant, UV-resistant, waterproof bike helmet. The “Apollo” collection was designed

by Egide. The firm Le Cabinet de Curiosités de Thomas Erber just released the limitededition flax model in this glossy ruby shade. > Available at the Colette concept store in Paris. www.egide-paris.com

2016 MISSONISPRING IS EVER IN BLOOM IN ROSITA MISSONI’S IMAGINATION, AS CAN BE SEEN IN THETHEIR OPTIMISM SOW SEEDS G STUNNIN AND PETALS G BLOOMIN HOME COLLECTION FEATURING THE ANEMONE. MIRACULOUSLY (SEE PHOTO) AND OTHER ACCESSORIES, ALL TO LET ITALIAN LIFESTYLE ACROSS TEXTILES, PILLOWS, HOUSEHOLD LINENS, CARPET E PRINT THEMES. BLACK-AND-WHITE PATTERNS UNFURL IN SIX EXQUISIT TAKE ROOT IN YOUR OWN HOME BRIGHT COLOURS AND

ITALY FLOWER POWER. > www.missonihome.com

La Cité du Vin in Bordeaux / XTU. Egide.

SWEDEN FLOATING FREE

The first levitating lamp needs no wires or batteries – a world first.

This free-floating marvel, manufactured by the Swedish firm Flyte, stays in the air with a magnetic system and is powered by induction technology. The LED bulb has a 50,000-hour lifespan for a whopping eleven years of use. Another leadingedge lesson from Scandinavian design. > www.flyte.se

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NOW World TAIWAN DESIGN ARCHAEOLOGY

Kelly, Katy and Alex bring their intuition and talent to the Kimu multidisciplinary design studio.

Their favourite activity: reinterpreting a conventional or traditional object to create a contemporary oeuvre.

Like the perfectly poetic “New Old Vase”, which shifts the way we look at this everyday article. > www.kimudesign.com

SYMBOLISES IN JAPAN AND TRAINED IN FRANCE, CHEF ANDRÉ CHIANG SINGAPORE ELEMENTARY. BORN IN TAIWAN, RAISED THIRD RANKED – NDRÉ A ANT RESTAUR HIS IN ETS INTERPR , TURN IN , THAT HE

THE SUCCESS OF THE DELICIOUS CULTURAL MELTING POT ” CUISINE THAT TANGIBLY AND TASTEFULLY DEMONSTRATES “OCTAPHILOSOPHY IN ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS IN 2016. THE MENU THIS KNOWLEDGE MAKES NOW HAIDON P HOUSE G UBLISHIN P .

OMY GASTRON INCLUDES ONE OR MORE OF CHIANG’S EIGHT ELEMENTS OF ACCESSIBLE TO ALL. > www.phaidon.com

JAPAN FEELING BLUE

The indigo plant was first cultivated in the 10th century in Tokushima on the Japanese island of Shikoku. There, indigo dye is still made the traditional way. Courtesy of this natural colouring, this Aoshi scarf is as soothing as a blue sky. > aoshi.jp

SINGAPORE SCINTILLATING STONES

In its first exhibition in Southeast Asia, jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels explores The Art and Science of Gems in a synergistic display of 450 jewellery creations and 250 minerals from Paris’ National Museum of Natural History. Geoscience finds expression in ineffable beauty. > Through 14 August. www.marinabaysands.com

Studio Kimu. Patrick Gries © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Check in, then

CHECK OUT EMIRATES FIRST AND BUSINESS Start your journey in one of our 39 luxury lounges worldwide.

Enjoy gourmet dining and refreshments.

Hello Tomorrow

NOW The N moment

UM CAFEZINHO POR FAVOR !

By Guillaume Jan Illustration Célia Callois

* A cafezinho, please!

A TIME-WORN, PINK MARBLE COUNTERTOP, SIX STOOLS,TWO FANS, a crucifix nailed to the wall, an over-

flowing fresh-fruit basket and a stainless steel cylinder exuding the powerful smell of coffee. That’s the décor of this lanchonete, a snack bar as can be found on nearly every street corner in Rio. The vintage radio crackles with one of the most celebrated bossa nova hits of the Sixties, “Garota de Ipanema” (“The Girl from Ipanema”). It’s amusing to hear it in this little eatery, for we happen to be in that very neighbourhood, the tony Ipanema district, a stone’s throw from the legendary café in front of which passed Helô Pinheiro, the young woman who inspired the song. It’s eight o’clock, the sun is already high in the sky and three customers sip their first cafezinho of the day as they gaze, lost in thought, at the ocean rumbling upon the beach at the end of the street.

The cafezinho (“small coffee” in Portuguese) is what one calls a traditional coffee in Brazil. It’s a bitter and somewhat acidic drink, served piping hot but very long after slow filtering. Cariocas sometimes add a spoonful or two of sugar, perhaps a dash of milk, even a little water. “It’s the same coffee we were drinking in the early 19th century when the plantations started developing in the State of Rio, then in the surrounding regions,” says Rogerio, the debonair manager of this old-fashioned lanchonete. “People drink it anywhere, anytime, day or night.” And it’s true: anytime is the right time to stop for a cafezinho in Rio. In the morning, you can order it for a modest one or two reais, gulping it down with a cheese bun or meat

on a roll. You then might enjoy one or two at work to start the day off right, or when you take a break, or to close a deal. People also like having one to top off a good lunch.

It’s often offered in the waiting room at the hairdresser’s or at boutiques and is considered a gesture of hospitality when someone stops by for a visit. It’s consumed to stave off hunger, boost the spirits, relax and unwind. “The cafezinho is a crucial component of social life here,” proclaims Rogerio.

Though widespread and inexpensive, the drink is not by any means considered a lowly beverage: there are, for instance, “gourmet cafezinhos”, like those served in the sumptuous Centro brasseries, even in the top-rated restaurants of the trendy quarters of Rio. There, the ritual dons fussier finery, the stainless steel container giving way to an elegant silver coffee pot with a long, swan’s-neck spout and ebony handle. In the blink of an eye, you are back in the Brazil of the Belle Époque. The cafezinho, a legacy of the carioca culture, has kept pace with times and tastes and is now subject to more meticulous selection. “Oh, the espresso craze is taking over here like it is everywhere else, of course, but the cafezinho will always have its place!”

Rogerio assures us. “My customers couldn’t go without it.” With that, the elderly gentleman turns to take the order of a young lady in workout attire: “Um cafezinho, por favor!” n

It’s eight o’clock, the sun is already high in the sky, and three customers sip their first cafezinho.

Nespresso will soon be paying tribute to Brazil’s coffee traditions.

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THEY’VE BEEN LIVING THE GOOD LIFE IN RIO DE JANEIRO FOR YEARS, YET ARE STILL WONDERSTRUCK BY THEIR CITY. SIX CARIOCAS, ALL NESPRESSO CLUB MEMBERS, SHARE THEIR FAVOURITE ESTABLISHMENTS AND A PORTRAIT OF THEIR BAYSIDE METROPOLIS.

By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak Portraits Jean-Christophe Husson

You’ll find all the locations listed in the City Guide on our map in the back of the magazine.

CITY Guide

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Paragliders and hang-gliders land on the São Conrado beach.

The Praça XV Station, the ferry terminal for bay crossings.

The Escadaria Selarón linking the Santa Teresa and Lapa neighbourhoods.

A beach vendor selling “biscoitos” and “mate”.

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A “quiosque” at the edge of Ipanema beach, near Posto 9.

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MANUELA, FOOD BLOGGER AND STYLIST, MEMBER SINCE 2011 WITH HER ENCHANTING SMILE AND OUTGOING NATURE, Manuela

is the epitome of today’s Carioca.

She arrives at our meeting for the photo shoot and interview in the Ipanema Boutique with an unfailingly cheerful demeanour and boundless energy. This young woman devotes her time to researching Rio’s best eateries to assist discerning diners having decided to quit her legal career and reinvent herself as an author and food stylist. On her blog, “Cozinho, logo existo”, she explores the flavours of her native city through a savvy selection of venues and recipes that are as fresh and healthy as she is! This smiling and highly skilled chef loves cooking vegetables of every ilk. Another personal passion: Nespresso Grands Crus. She never starts the day without a cup of ARPEGGIO or RISTRETTO, prepared espresso-style. “I love everything about coffee: its aroma, its flavours, its intensity. I drink three a day: one in the morning, another after lunch and a last one mid-afternoon, often an ARPEGGIO DECAFFEINATO.”

“It’s a cultural centre that often hosts photography exhibits. The building is exquisite, just like the patio, surrounded by gardens designed by Burle Marx, the great Brazilian landscape architect.

I go there to enjoy their events or sip a coffee in the peace and quiet.”

Photo Robert Polidori/Acervo Instituto Moreira Salles.

CULTURAL CHIC INSTITUTO MOREIRA SALLES 1

21 VEGGIE FARE . ORG BISTRÔ 2

“I often go to this charming little restaurant, alone or with friends, for their vegetarian dishes.

I recommend their feijoada – the traditional Brazilian dish – in which they substitute tofu for pork. I’m not vegetarian, but I do limit my red meat consumption to just once a week.”

POPULAR PIZZA FERRO E FARINHA 3

“The chef made his start in Rio by selling pizzas in the street, then opened this tiny restaurant.

You have to either share a table set up outside or elbow your way to a spot at the counter. In my opinion, this is the best pizza in town. It’s wood-fired and their recipes have an exotic touch.”

PARADISE WILD PRAIA DA RESERVA 5

“The vast beach is gorgeous and lies behind the lagoon that’s a listed nature reserve. Everything is so beautiful – the sand, the water. And it’s quieter than the south Rio neighbourhoods.

There are no bars or restaurants at Reserva – you go there for the beauty of a wild, pristine beach.”

ROCK SHOP KULT KOLECTOR 4

Manuela researches the flavours of her native city for readers of her blog.

“This place has a real underground, rocker attitude. It’s a vintage shop, bar and concert hall rolled into one.

The skateboard culture club rubs elbows with music and film enthusiasts and the atmosphere is youthful and relaxed. I love the nights when they showcase the blues.”

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José is at last taking the time to admire the Rio sunsets.

DELICIOUS DELICATESSEN TALHO CAPIXABA 7

“I meet my friends in this deli for coffee. It first opened in 1958 and serves great sweet and savoury treats and high-quality products. I recommend going during the week, because the place is very crowded on weekends.”

WATERSIDE WALK PALAPHITA KITCH 6

“I like to walk around the lagoon, the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. I have a number of favourite places to stop along the way. Palaphita Kitch is a very pleasant, popular bar for enjoying a cocktail.

Over on the other side is the Quiosque Arab, which serves tasty, down-to-earth SyrianLebanese cuisine.”

TWILIGHT TIME PEDRA DO ARPOADOR 8

“To reach the Arpoador rock, you have to walk along Ipanema as far as quiosque No. 7.

There, you climb up on the rock to watch the sunset. There’s something magical about the place, a kind of positive energy.”

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JOSÉ, BUSINESS CONSULTANT, MEMBER SINCE 2008 JOSÉ: THE QUIET STRENGTH OF ONE WHO HAS LIVED INTENSELY.

After a career with major public companies in Brazil and France, this Rio native seems to at last be taking the time to admire the sunsets that set the bay ablaze each evening.

A son of Egyptian and Lebanese immigrants, he cares deeply about this city and grew up with his parents and two brothers in Tijuca, a neighbourhood in Rio’s Northern Zone. The prestigious Fundação Getúlio Vargas, the higher education institution where he studied public administration, is where he met his wife with whom he recently celebrated forty-two years of marriage. But it was in France that he discovered Nespresso: “It was in the late 1990s.

I came back to Rio with my machine, before the brand had become established in this country. A friend had to supply me with the capsules until 2006 when I could finally buy my own in the Boutiques in Brazil.”

He passed on his passion for Grands Crus to his son, who lives in Australia: “The first thing I gave him as a going-away gift was a Nespresso machine!” says this lover of ARPEGGIO and RISTRETTO, which he drinks unsweetened… and uncounted.

HISTORIC RIO PRAÇA XV qp

“I go to this square to admire the colonial architecture, but also for the regular flea markets they hold here.

You can stroll the surrounding area and stop in one of the neighbourhood’s many restaurants.”

INNER PEACE LE QUARTIER D’URCA 9

“This is the area by Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar).

Urca has a character all of its own, a traditional, provincial charm and tranquil lifestyle.

To truly appreciate it, you need to let yourself aimlessly wander the shady streets.”

24 BRAZILIAN BACKER MARACANÃ qq

“I’m a supporter of the Fluminense club – they play at the Maracanã stadium.

I could support the Vasco da Gama club, which is traditionally the Portuguese immigrants’ team, but I really love the Fluminense green, garnet and white jersey. What’s more, I converted everyone in my family – except my father – to these colours, too!”

ARNALDO, ENGINEER, MEMBER SINCE 2012 LOVE KNOWS NO BOUNDS.

That’s Arnaldo’s philosophy when it comes to coffee. This industrial production engineer, owner of a consulting firm, manages to drink more than eight cups a day!

As for machines, this man who has had visions of aircraft dancing in his head since he was a child is astounded by those designed

by Nespresso. “I’ve already purchased eight of them. I have them set up absolutely everywhere.

Whenever I get the chance, I give them to my parents, members of my family, everyone.” And when, four years ago, Arnaldo met the woman who would become his wife, he chose one of the Swiss brand’s machines for her – even before choosing the ring. Today, he lives in the Barra da Tijuca district. He has a soft spot in his heart for Portugal, the land of his grandparents, holds dual Brazilian and Portuguese nationality, and is considering moving to the other side of the Atlantic someday. Meanwhile, on his patio, he dedicates his time to the pleasures of reading and gardening. There, again, coffee is never far away: “I love the cocoa note of the Grand Cru INDRIYA FROM INDIA . It’s the perfect brew to go with a good book!”

25 MEAT MECCA CHURRASCARIA PALACE qd

“This restaurant, behind the Copacabana beach, serves the carioca specialty of spit-grilled meat. The servers perform a veritable ballet between the tables with their hunks of beef, lamb, pork or chicken. I also like going to the Fogo de Chão in the Botafogo district. The view from there is breathtaking.”

TIME TRAVEL CONFEITARIA COLOMBO qs

“You have to look upwards to really appreciate the beauty of the glass ceiling. The interior architecture is simply amazing.

Whether you’re in the groundfloor café or the upstairs restaurant, it’s a journey back in time. I love more than just this gem – I love this whole historic district, where ancient buildings stand side-by-side with cuttingedge contemporary construction.”

LEGENDARY LANDSCAPE CRISTO REDENTOR qf

“Take the time to climb to the top of Corcovado, topped by the Christ the Redeemer statue.

You can see the entire geography of Rio de Janeiro from there, all the incredible contrast between sea, sky and mountains.

The view is astounding.”

FUTURISTIC FOCUS MUSEU DO AMANHÃ qg

“This recently-opened museum stands as testament to this area’s renaissance.

It’s called the ‘Museum of Tomorrow’ because the exhibits focus on science, technology and sustainable development. The largest aquarium in South America is nearby, scheduled to open in 2016.”

Arnaldo cares deeply about both Rio’s heritage and its future.

26 BOUNTIFUL BREAKFAST ESCOLA DO PÃO qh

“This restaurant is only open for breakfast and dinner.

We come here in the morning when we have a bit of extra time to start our day.

Our favourite meal to order is fruit, cereal, orange juice, toast or tapioca with eggs and coffee. You can also buy bread here – they have a wide selection of varieties.”

HEAVENLY HIKE PEDRA BONITA qj

“A hike on one of Rio’s mountains is a must.

We’d suggest Pedra Bonita, which peaks at 520 metres.

It’s not a difficult walk and only takes about forty minutes.”

CARIOCA CARDIO COMPANHIA ATHLETICA GYM sp

“This fitness club inside the Barra Shopping mall is where we work. We give individual and group lessons. Cariocas are crazy about exercise and work out very often.”

SURF CITY THE PRAINHA qk AND MACUMBA BEACHES ql

“We usually surf before going to work. And on the weekends, after riding some nice tubes, we stop at the Rico Point quiosque – it’s managed by a surfer and serves awesome acai juice.”

To be sure to catch the best waves, Gustavo gets up at 5 a.m.

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JÚLIA AND GUSTAVO, FITNESS COACHES, MEMBERS SINCE 2012 YOU HAVE TO REALLY BE IN SHAPE TO KEEP UP with the frenetic pace

of Júlia and Gustavo! This couple, who work as a team in an athletic club, go from one activity to the next: up with the sun for a morning surf, then cycling, rock climbing and more. And when asked to describe one another over a Grand Cru, RISTRETTO is what comes first to mind for Júlia when talking about her amante: “Gustavo never stops! He gets up at 5 a.m. to be sure he catches the best waves. For him, coffee is a kick-start to the day!” On the other hand, CARAMELITO is what helps Gustavo describe his companion: “Júlia is mild, sweet...,” he says tenderly.

They live in the Barra da Tijuca district and make the most of the relaxed atmosphere of its streets, not to mention the tubes that Gustavo has been surfing since his youth. He was born in Rio de Janeiro; she came to the city at the age of 10 from the neighbouring Minas Gerais region.

POST-BEACH BREW SEU BAR sq

“In our neighbourhood of Barra da Tijuca, Gustavo is a regular at this bar, meeting for a drink with friends and watching a game on one of the many screens. They have a huge patio that spills out onto the street.

It’s the perfect place to wrap up a day at the beach with a cold beer!”

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DALTON, RETIRED CIVIL SERVANT, MEMBER SINCE 2009 HIS SURNAME – TORRES CAFFÉ FILHO – surely fated him to substantial

coffee consumption! When we met Dalton at midday, not far from his home in Ipanema, he had already enjoyed six cups of DHARKAN and RISTRETTO! “My name does indeed come from a coffee trader, but alas the family history has been lost over the decades”, explains this former tax administration employee. After living in the Ramos and Del Castilho neighbourhoods in the northern part of the city, he is now in the south, near the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, enjoying time with friends and savouring the freedom that comes with retirement.

This Carioca has a straightforward gaze and never misses an opportunity to visit the nearby Boutique and enjoy one of his favourite Grands Crus: “I spent a long time looking for a machine that could prepare better coffee than could be found in the city’s bars, and I found exactly what I was looking for with Nespresso!” With his characteristic touch of humour, he admits, “By going to the Boutique so much, I’m afraid the staff might take me for a profiteer... but I do so love this coffee!”

SHORE STROLL LAGOA RODRIGO DE FREITAS ss

“Every day, I walk all the way around the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon just behind Ipanema. I’m rather proud to say I cover the 7.5 kilometres in about 45 minutes! I cross paths with joggers and cyclists who, like me, are outside enjoying this sublime scenery.”

29 LUSITANIAN LUNCH GRUTA DE SANTO ANTÔNIO sf

“This family establishment located on the other side of Guanabara Bay is a great lunch place for those wanting to explore the city of Niterói across from Rio. It’s a Portuguese restaurant serving a wide variety of cod-based dishes.”

WINES OF THE WORLD CAVIST VINOTECA & RESTÔ sd

“I truly love Ipanema.

It’s a neighbourhood with two personalities: there’s the beach on one side, the lagoon on the other. That’s the side I like best and includes this wine bar that has a superb list of wines from around the world. And the value for money is excellent.”

Dalton likes getting together with friends near the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas.

TROPICAL UTOPIA JARDIM BOTÂNICO sg

“The Botanical Garden boasts more than 6,000 tropical plant species! I love strolling through this green paradise with my grandchildren – you can also see the monkeys roaming free. Make sure you go through the alley of imperial palms: they’re gigantic and majestic.”

PERFECT PAUSE PARQUE LAGE sh

“If you want to get completely away from the hustle-bustle of the city, the Parque Lage is a spectacular site at the foot of the Tijuca Forest. It’s also home to the School of Visual Arts and a café where you can sip some refreshment while gazing at the Cristo atop Corcovado.”

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10 REASONS TO GO TO RIO IN 2016 THIS MARVELLOUS CITY SHINES BRIGHTLY IN THE SPOTLIGHT THIS OLYMPIC YEAR: RIO UNVEILS SPECTACULAR NEW CHARMS AND A CULTURAL CALENDAR THAT PULSES WITH UNPARALLELED ENERGY. HERE’S A LOOK AT THE MUST-SEE EVENTS BETWEEN NOW AND DECEMBER.

By Kim Levy Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

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ADMIRE THE OLYMPIC TITANS

Some 10,500 athletes will compete in 28 disciplines across Rio, with four Olympic venues hosting sporting events to be broadcast worldwide. The Barra da Tijuca district will be home to contests in swimming, tennis and golf; Copacabana beach is the site for beach volleyball, rowing, canoeing; in western Rio, Deodoro will host the basketball and equestrian competitions; and the Maracanã stadium will welcome football as bowstrings are drawn in the Sambodromo. > Summer Olympics, 5-21 August.

Paralympic Games, 7-18 September. www.rio2016.com

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WRITE ON THE WALLS

This year, French, Americans, Italians and Spaniards will join forces in the biggest gathering of street artists, “Meeting of Favelas”, in the northern outskirts of Rio. A superb chance to see the work of new graffiti talent. > “Meeting of Favelas,” Sunday, 27 November, in Vila Operária, Nova Iguaçu. www.meetingoffavela. com.br

AMBLE AMID ART

Every year, for a single weekend, the streets of the Santa Teresa neighbourhood are transformed into a gigantic gallery.

The many painters, sculptors and photographers working in the district open their studios and workshops to the public to share the environment in which their creations take shape.

An opportunity to discover the most creative corners of Rio during an artistic open house. > “Arte de Portas Abertas”, a weekend in summer, in Santa Teresa. www.chavemestra. com.br

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DANCE WITH BRASS

Jazz Me Up! is a series of electro-jazz concerts that have gained popularity since the event was created two years ago. In a mix of standards and electronic or hip-hop beats, the music shows up in a new place every time and is always a pleasant surprise.

Though such events happen often in London and New York, they take on a samba-rich flavour in the carioca city! > Watch for the schedule on www.facebook.com/ jazzmeupfesta

CONTEMPLATE CULTURE

After São Paulo, Belo Horizonte and Brasília, the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (CCBB) in Rio de Janeiro will be celebrating the 100th anniversary of the founding of the De Stijl artistic movement and its eminent eponymous journal. The display features nearly 70 works – paintings, models, furniture –, half of which are from Piet Mondrian, the most renowned representative of this trailblazing style that heavily influenced early 20th-century art. > “Mondrian and the De Stijl Movement” exhibition, 12 October 2016 through 9 January 2017, at the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil. www.culturabancodo brasil.com.br

Must See

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SWIM WITH THE SHARKS

After the Rio Art Museum (MAR), which opened in 2013, and the Museum of Tomorrow unveiled in 2015, this is the last piece of the new cultural trio built in conjunction with the Olympic Games. The Rio Aquarium celebrates the theory of evolution and the reintroduction of marine species in fascinating displays and activities. The most intense: visitors can dive into the “ocean tank,” a huge aquarium populated by swimming sharks and rays. > Aquário Marinho do Rio de Janeiro.

Opening in 2016. www.aquariomarinho dorio.com.br

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GO TO THE FAIR

As a public portion of the São Paulo Biennial, ArtRio draws the who’s-who of Rio to the neighbourhood of Gamboa. In the enormous red-brick warehouse on the Píer Mauá, the modern and contemporary art fair unfolds in an immense exhibition where shoppers, onlookers and famous faces mingle to feast on artistic fare. > ArtRio international art fair, 28 September through 2 October, at Píer Mauá. www.artrio.art.br

TAKE IT TO THE STREETS

Each year, in a different favela, the spotlight is on Franco-Brazilian cultural exchanges in film screenings, concerts, workshops, exhibitions and more.

Created in 2014 by producer Freddy Vitorino and musician Mathias Cassel to bring culture to children in challenged neighbourhoods, the 2016 event will host a number of Festival do Rio celebrities, all with support from the Olympic Committee. > Festival Planeta Ginga, at the Complexos da Penha e do Alemão favelas, 3 and 4 December. www.livinastro5000.com

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POSE ON THE RED CARPET

Though “telenovelas” have seen overwhelming success, Cariocas are avid moviegoers as well.

Each year, the Rio International Film Festival honours the best local productions and screens some 250 international films in various venues around the city.

Illustrious red-carpet guests help make it the largest film festival in Latin America. > Festival do Rio, 6-16 October, throughout the city.

Awards ceremony at Armazém da Utopia (Gamboa). www.festivaldorio.com.br

MIX AND MATCH GENRES

Arte Inn evening events are marked by light shows and colourful attire, when the creatures of the night mingle with artistic sorts. With sound and light from DJs, bands, visual artists and even poets in residence, the events take place on Friday nights in different sites throughout the city. > Arte Inn evenings, Friday nights in Rio de Janeiro. More information on https://www.facebook. com/arteinnrio/

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Zanini de Zanine ECODESIGNER DESIGNER ZANINI DE ZANINE CALDAS, AT AGE 38, EMBODIES A NEW GENERATION OF CREATORS CONCERNED ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENT AND FINDING INSPIRATION IN THE PAST AS ABLY AS THEY SHAKE THEMSELVES FREE OF IT. A CLOSE ENCOUNTER WITH ONE OF THE HEIRS TO BRAZIL’S GREAT MODERNISTIC TRADITION.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Jean-Christophe Husson and Mickaël A. Bandassak

SEEING RED

The BR chair in perforated sheet steel. Model produced especially for the Abbey of Design in 2013.

CITIZEN of honour

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SALVAGE SPIRIT

Recycled beams and boards are stored in the workshop in the Jacarepagua district in Rio’s West Zone.

TEMPERED LINES

The Serfa chair in ipe wood and traditional leather (2015 collection).

TEAM Z EXPERIMENTAL

The designer’s staff of passionate Prisma, T and Cuca stools and virtuosic cabinetmakers. in ipe wood (2014 collection).

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FIVE TURNING POINTS FOR ZANINI Born in Rio de Janeiro.

Earns a master’s degree in industrial design at Rio’s Pontifical Catholic University (PUC).

2003 Makes his first furniture during his internship year with designer Sergio Rodrigues.

2011 Founds Studio Zanini, bringing together his office, a design studio and a showroom.

2015 Voted Designer of the Year at the Maison & Objet Americas show.

1978 2002

Photo Serfa armchair: Copyright Studio Zanini.

WHEN WE MET ZANINI DE ZANINE, THE OLYMPICS WERE ON THE STILL-DISTANT HORIZON, yet Rio thrummed with

a bizarre, frenetic ambiance. “Did you notice this strange energy?” the designer asks as we drive to his design studio near the port in the Santo Cristo district. “The city is very active, with a strong business influence worldwide. But the many beaches also create a kind of holiday atmosphere, a form of relaxation that you don’t find in other Brazilian megacities, like São Paulo or Brasilia. On weekends, I can go surfing just a stone’s through from my house.” His car travels along the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, beneath the unwavering gaze of Christ the Redeemer perched 710 metres above us. The road is lined with modern architectural structures, backed by steep hills that shape Rio’s majestic panorama. After passing through the André Rebouças tunnel, we must reduce our speed and eventually come to a standstill, caught in one of the infamous traffic jams that paralyse the city during rush hour. Three young men approach the car, one to sell us drinks, another to clean the windshield in exchange for a crumpled bank note, a third to sell us lottery tickets.

“I like the resourcefulness the Cariocas have, and the freedom you feel in the city,” continues Zanini. “Rio is no paradise: the bay is polluted, transportation is slow, violence is ever-present, though

“Rio’s great social diversity generates extraordinary creativity.”

that’s starting to improve. But I find more advantages than disadvantages, which is why I wouldn’t live anywhere else.

The city is strangely endearing and the great social diversity here generates extraordinary creativity. In fact, I’m looking for a way to express this diversity, this sensuality, this energy in the furniture and objects I make.”

SPRINGBOARD

At 38, with his magnetic gaze, movie-star mouth and tattoos, Zanini de Zanine Caldas is one of the most dynamic figures of the new generation of Brazilian designers – concerned about the environment, cognisant of his cultural heritage, curious about the world and open to the future. His streamlined creations are on display in all the major cities, he designs pieces for prestigious brands (a limited edition of chairs and benches in demolition wood for Cappellini, a lamp for Slamp, a stainless-steel armchair/ rocking chair/shelving ensemble for Tolix) and often represents his country at the world’s glittering celebrations of contemporary design. Talented, affable, generous with his time, Zanini, voted the 2015 Designer of the Year at Maison &Objet Americas in Miami and recipient of several international awards, says he was blessed with a rather singular springboard to launch his career: he is the son of architect, designer and sculptor José Zanine Caldas (1919-2001), whose tuned-in, intuitive creations were conspicuously influential in Brazil in the second half of the 20th century. “My father taught me to be exacting, demanding, to con- •••

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THAT MAN FROM RIO

Environmentally conscious and determined to keep evolving in his professional realm, the son of architect José Zanine Caldas has made a name (of his own) for himself.

37 tinuously strive to improve. He was born to a modest family and everything he ever had in life he owed to his work, his creativity. But he also endowed me with his taste for culture and his insatiable curiosity.” And it was in his father’s workshop that little Zanini designed and built his first models, wooden space shuttles and other toys, each more elaborate than the last, until he decided to make a vocation of it. He then studied industrial design at the prestigious Pontifical Catholic University of Rio (PUC) and, in 2003, pursued an internship with Sergio Rodrigues (1927-2014), one of the inventors of modern furniture in Brazil. There he designed solid wood furniture, one-of-akind pieces with simple, elegant lines, fashioned from old beams and other recycled items. Then he moved to the industrial manufacturing stage, designing series of tables, chairs or stools. Twelve years later, his studio is home to displays of other wooden tables and chairs designed with the same simplicity: “I love the sound of worked wood – its texture, its smell, its softness and warmth. This material has enormous presence in my life, because my father used it so much. He cared about environmental issues, about preserving the rainforests, and really impressed upon me

“I love the sound of worked wood – its texture, its smell, its softness and warmth.”

the need to use recycled wood whenever possible. Today, I mainly work with demolition wood. Or wood from replanted forests for my industrial productions.” Zanini de Zanine also recycles other materials, such as steel or plastic.

“Extending the life of an object is also a way to take the pressure off the environment. The designer must assume his own responsibility with respect to the world’s wellbeing, since we have the capacity to produce long-lasting, non-polluting, sustainable articles that are kind to nature.”

DESIGN STAR

One floor above the showroom, we sit in a cosy Serfa chair in wood, leather and metal. A flagship piece the designer has marketed since 2015. He serves us a Fortissio Lungo, using his newly acquired Pixie Clips, while confessing to us that he’s only been drinking coffee for a year.

“For a long time, I was convinced that I was too anxious, too wound-up to drink it. Today, though, I have no regrets about having started. I love the taste and it helps me pace my workdays.” He again tells of the intensity of his daily life as a rising design star – the constant back-and-forth between his studio near the Guanabara Bay and his workshop in Rio’s western suburbs, coupled with his many trips abroad. But the Carioca is keeping his feet on the ground as he rubs elbows with the stars, saying, humbly, “I still have a long way to go before I get to be as good as my father.” n

WHERE MIGHT YOU ENCOUNTER ZANINI IN RIO?

DR.

ESPÍRITO SANTA sj

“This restaurant in the Santa Teresa district overlooking the bay specialises in traditional cuisine from the North.

It has charming décor and warm, friendly service.”

ABBEY OF DESIGN (AOD) sk

“French designer and interior designer Chafik Benazzouz transformed this former convent into a magical space that’s well-known in the design community.”

BRASEIRO DA GÁVEA sl

“To usher in the weekend, I like to drink a few chopps (light beers served well-chilled) with my friends in fun little bars like the Braseiro.”

IRAJÁ GASTRÔ d0

“This townhouse with vintage décor in Botafogo features contemporary Brazilian cuisine.”

You’ll find all the abovementioned locations on our map in the back of the magazine.

Let the GAMES BEGIN RIO HAS NEVER HAD TO WAIT FOR THE OLYMPICS (5-21 AUGUST) TO GET ITS GAME ON. THE LAVISH LANDSCAPES OF MOUNTAINS, FORESTS AND BEACHES GIVE FANS OF NEARLY EVERY SPORT AN UNPARALLELED OUTDOOR PLAYGROUND. ANY TIME, DAY OR NIGHT, ALL YEAR ROUND, CARIOCAS HAVE AT THEIR FINGERTIPS A THOUSAND AND ONE WAYS TO STAY IN SHAPE.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

SPORT Discovery

ALTINHA WAS INVENTED ON THE BEACHES OF RIO

NATHALIA MAGALHÕES DE SOUZA, AGE 20 “IT’S SIMPLE: THERE ARE REALLY NO RULES IN ALTINHA. You have

to keep the ball in the air for as long as possible without using your hands – like a game of solo or group keepie-uppie. And that’s where it gets complicated, because it requires a lot of precision and technique! Altinha is played everywhere, but especially by the sea in Rio, where it was invented forty years ago. It’s not an Olympic sport and, in fact, there’s no competition, no winner – it’s a form of entertainment more than anything else. I tend to surf more during the week, but on weekends, when there are too many people out in the waves, I prefer altinha. I can juggle the ball by myself for a full five minutes.

You want me to show you?”

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I TEACH AFROVIBE BY THE SEA MARYAM KABA, AGE 37 “I GREW UP IN FRANCE AND WAS A COMPETITIVE GYMNAST and sports coach

there. When I discovered Rio in 2012, I decided to settle here and start classes in Afrovibe, a very dynamic African dance that uses all the muscles in the body.

I give classes right on the seafront, a huge playground in itself. People practice infinite forms of exercise there. Cariocas take care of their bodies, but the beauty standards aren’t the same as in Europe: here, you work on shapeliness.

The ideal for women is fleshy buttocks, round thighs, and the men are fairly muscular. Cariocas like to have a good tan, too, and your tan lines are yet another beauty criterion.”

I WAS ON THE OLYMPIC WATER POLO TEAM ROBERTO “BETINHO” MARQUES, AGE 27 “FOR FOUR YEARS, I WAS ON THE OLYMPIC WATER POLO TEAM.

I was paid by my club and received a government scholarship.

I trained six hours a day. In the morning, I did weight training and swam laps; we played in the evening. That whole era of intense preparation is behind me now; I no longer do pool competitions, but I still play matches in open water – lakes, waterfalls. I have more personal time to go swimming at Copacabana or Ipanema and drink coconut water! That’s what I missed the most when I was on the national team.”

NICOLAS ARANTES, AGE 27 “I LIVE FAR FROM THE BEACHES,

but I managed to find a job near the sea: I’m a salesperson for a company that makes automatic ticket barriers. I surf every day on my lunch break or in the evening.

Each beach has its own kind of waves; I choose my spot based on the wind direction. It’s a solitary sport that requires patience, and that gives you the freedom to lose yourself completely in the marine elements and atmosphere. I love to feel the power of the ocean, to become one with it when I catch a good wave.

There are so many people in Rio who surf; it’s a very common sport here for both boys and girls.”

I MANAGED TO FIND A JOB NEAR THE SEA

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MARCIA WEINZETTL, AGE 48 “FOR EIGHT YEARS, I WAS THE TOP BRAZILIAN WOMAN in the international ranking for futevôlei,

as they call it here. This sport, which pits two teams of two players against each other on an 18-metre-long pitch, combines both volleyball and football (soccer) techniques.

The ball can be touched by all parts of the body except the hands and arms. Futevôlei was created in the mid-Sixties on Copacabana beach before it spread to other coastal cities in Brazil and, eventually, to beaches in other parts of the world.

But for now, this discipline isn’t played in enough countries to become an Olympic sport.”

FUTEVÔLEI COMBINES BOTH VOLLEYBALL AND FOOTBALL TECHNIQUES

VICTORIA LOVELADY, AGE 29 “GOLF CALLS FOR TECHNIQUE AND CONCENTRATION, but also a lot

of creativity and instinct to be able to succeed every time. I decided to become a professional golfer at the age of 16 and am currently the leading Brazilian woman in the world ranking. If I make it through the final selection stages, I’ll participate in the Olympic Games this summer.

Golf isn’t yet widely played in Brazil, as few can afford most golf course fees, but I hope the Olympics will help democratise the sport. The Barra da Tijuca course will open to the public after the Games and that would be a great chance for Cariocas to try their hand at it, don’t you think?”

I HOPE THE OLYMPICS WILL HELP DEMOCRATISE GOLF

PARTY Time

SAMBA! IN THE STREET, ON THE BEACH, MUSIC RIPPLES, FLOWS AND ROARS THROUGH RIO DE JANEIRO. NIGHT AND DAY, PEOPLE DANCE TO THE SOUNDS OF BOSSA, FUNK OR CHARME. AN OVERVIEW OF THE CARIOCA CURRENTS.

By Guillaume Jan Illustration Damien Vignaux/Colagene.com

FROM THE OLD TOWN TO THE TOP OF THE FAVELAS TO THE WATER’S EDGE, music is everywhere in Rio. The city

spawned many musical genres throughout the 20th century, a legacy of the cultural mix that has shaped Brazil: smooth Amerindian sounds, African rhythms, European instruments, inescapably tinged with the rising influence of American hiphop. This rich and sensual musical palette is an excellent introduction to the very soul of Brazil.

fairly garnered bossa a reputation as elevator music. In Brazil, today’s population prefers música popular brasileira (MPB), considered “quality” popular music, which perpetuates the bossa nova style by making it more accessible.

THE ULTIMATE ALBUM: “Getz/Gilberto” from Stan Getz and João Gilberto (1964), featuring “The Girl from Ipanema”

SAMBA: THE CARNIVAL SOUNDTRACK

When people think of Brazil, they think of samba. This irresistible, sunny music arose from the abolition of slavery in 1888 and took over Rio’s historic downtown in the early 20th century.

Many former slaves had made the port city their home, working on the docks or in the surrounding streets. Free at last to express themselves, they reinterpreted the dances and sounds of their African ancestors. This festive music was so entrancing that it came to be adopted by all Cariocas. The lyrics, sung by several voices, describe the day-to-day life of the people over vibrant rhythms, inspired by both exaltation and melancholy.

Samba became the emblematic genre of the Rio Carnival in 1930 and is celebrated to this day in every corner of the city.

THE ULTIMATE ALBUM: “Samba Novo Esquema” from Jorge Ben (1963)

CHARME: THE LEGACY OF BLACK AMERICAN SOUL

This music, at once sensual and groovy, was inspired by the rhythm and blues of the Sixties, the soul of the Seventies and the hip-hop of the Eighties. First taking form in the poor quarters of northern Rio, even today, most bailes charme (charme dances) are held far from the city centre. But this music, which manages to build a bridge between the black and white cultures (more compartmentalised in Rio than one might believe), is now broadening its audience. Outdoor festivals are held downtown, uniting an eclectic and enthusiastic following in astonishing choreography for the space of a hip and hot evening of group dancing.

THE ULTIMATE ALBUM: “Racional, Vol. 1” from Tim Maia (1975)

CARIOCA FUNK: YOUNG AND PROVOCATIVE

Photos: Jean-Christophe Husson; Mickaël A. Bandassak.

BOSSA NOVA: THE NEW WAVE

Mellower than samba, and more harmonically advanced, bossa nova (literally “new thing”) emerged in the late 1950s when Brazil entered a period of prosperity and cultural modernism. Influenced as much by samba as by cool jazz, “bossa” quickly became popular in Europe and the United States in the 1960s, led by musicians like Antônio Carlos (Tom) Jobim and João Gilberto until all-too-often-mediocre interpretations un-

Rio’s funk – fast-paced, taut, scathing – is the genre most representative of the favelas. Created in the wake of hip-hop in the early 1980s, it blends electronic music, house and rock to the feverish tempos of the hip-hop subgenre “Miami bass”.

The nefarious ambiance that accompanies this music is tied to the gangs that appropriated it, producing albums with increasingly explicit sexual allusions or even calls to violence. After too many disturbances exploded at funk dances (bailes funk) in the 1990s, the authorities responded by repressing this musical trend more harshly. But this was also the time when carioca funk left the favelas and became popular among the middle classes. Its contagious style means it is now played on dancefloors around the world.

THE ULTIMATE ALBUM: “Rio Baile Funk: More Favela Booty Beats” (2006)

CONTINUING EDUCATION

Favela Chic - Postonove (Volumes 1-4), mixed by Gringo da Parada (2001-2006). Four key compilations of Brazilian music, with French DJ Gringo da Parada brilliantly blending all the city’s currents, from Jorge Ben to Seu Jorge.

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LAND OF THE fazendas BRAZIL HAS SHARED ITS HISTORY WITH COFFEE FOR TWO HUNDRED YEARS. A FEW HOURS FROM RIO, CENTURIES-OLD ESTATES STAND AS TESTAMENTS TO THE MANY ERAS THAT FORGED THE SINGULAR CHARACTER OF THIS MAJOR PRODUCER COUNTRY, AND DO SO TO THIS DAY.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Jean-Christophe Husson

COFFEE Culture

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FAMILY FARM “Chico”, manager of Fazenda Sertão, amid the coffee trees planted by his ancestors.

FAR WEST Fazenda lands

are used only for coffee growing and cattle breeding.

“THIS IS OUR ESTATE, FAZENDA SERTÃO, A 250-HECTARE COFFEE PLANTATION. And on this hillside, the Bourbon

coffee trees you see there were planted over a hundred years ago!” A flock of budgerigars fly boisterously over the fields streaked with dark green bushes. The curvaceous hills seem to roll endlessly to the horizon. The agitated sky murmurs its threats of rain. Francisco Isidro Dias Pereira quickly scans the moody clouds, frowns, then continues: “My grandfather, José Isidoro, was one of the first Minas Gerais settlers to start working with coffee back in 1910. He understood how the soil was good for coffee-growing, being so rich with minerals, at more than 1,150 metres’ altitude, with a climate cooler than down on the coast.” Francisco – who goes by “Chico” – has spent his entire life at Fazenda Sertão, having been born here in 1950. He played among the coffee trees gracefully tracing the morros (“hills”) before working the land when

he was older, then becoming administrator for this family business that has developed over four generations.

“My grandparents were determined to produce quality harvests,” remarks the cowboyish sexagenarian in faded jeans, a battered hat and moustache. “They planted Yellow Bourbon [a variety of Arabica], which I think is the best coffee and now constitutes 45% of our produce. And they wanted to preserve the woodlands to ensure some biodiversity remained on the estate. We’ve carried on that tradition by fallowing land every other year, which ensures high productivity with minimal external interference.”

THE WORLD’S BEST COFFEE

The vast, hushed spaces of Fazenda Sertão stand in dramatic contrast to the hubbub of Rio de Janeiro some 350 kilometres away. It takes a good day’s drive to reach the village of Carmo de Minas, traveling along the banks of

49

RARE GEMS The Yellow Bourbon grown

on these Minas Gerais lands enjoys a climate and soil ideal for coffee trees.

“We have no choice but to produce quality coffee”

tempestuous streams, traversing dreary villages, crossing over a mountain pass, then meandering a few kilometres more into the countryside before coming across the discreet entrance to this prestigious fazenda.

Here, the plots of coffee trees are bordered by hedges of banana trees or cedars, and groves of eucalyptus dot the landscape. “The countryside here is so hilly that we can’t harvest our crops mechanically,” says Chico. “Everything is done manually. So when picking time comes, the estate employs as many as 600 people! Since labour is expensive, we have no choice but to produce quality coffee, 100% Arabica, which sells at a higher price than the Robusta grown on the plains.”

Today, the Pereira family is reaping the benefits of this choice, since it can boast of producing one of Brazil’s most exceptional coffees. Chico proudly adds, “In 2005, the Cup of Excellence even awarded us the highest rating ever given in the world.”

We suddenly feel a strong desire to sample this precious nectar. Chico has us get back in the bed of his old pickup and drives us along the plantation’s muddy trails to the family home. He brings out an enamelled metal coffee pot and serves his ebony treasure with the flowery attack that softens into a mild, balanced, slightly bitter flavour. Outside, the skies finally open and the rain streams down. Comfortably sheltered in the rustic, wooden home, Chico takes advantage of our being housebound to trace the history of Brazilian coffee. It was in the early 19th century •••

Francisco Isidro Dias Pereira

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FAZENDA SERTAO CARMO DE MINAS FAZENDA PONTE ALTA BARRA DO PIRAÍ

RIO DE JANEIRO

BRASIL RIO

FROM CHERRY TO CUP At Carmo

de Minas, Fazenda Sertão performs the various coffee-processing steps.

growers went deeper inland, into Minas Gerais, the São Paulo region and Paraná, in the south.” This was a new period of prosperity for the Pereira Filho biggest coffee barons, who stripped bare a still-pristine natural landscape to cultivate excellent coffees that were exported worldwide. But everything changed in 1952, when the Instituto Brasileiro do Café (IBC) imposed low prices on all producers and enacted regulations that favoured production quantity rather than production quality. “For forty years, until the IBC closed down in 1989, Brazil suffered greatly on account of this policy. After that, we worked hard to rebuild our reputation. We were inspired by the winegrowing culture to create designations of origin and vintages. I’ll drive you over to see my nephew, Luiz – he’ll tell you what you need to know about how things are nowadays.”

Map: Anne Chaperon

“Brazilian coffee is entering a new era.”

that the plantations began their boom.

Starting in 1831, Brazil became the world’s largest exporter, the number of plantations grew and the country experienced two decades of economic expansion in the 1850s and 1860s due to the massive arrival of Luiz Paulo Dias African slaves. Production slowed in the 1880s with the laws abolishing slave trade, but also because of a string of harsh winters that were deadly for the crops, most certainly compounded by the depletion of agricultural soils caused by short-term profitability objectives. “My grandfather got started in coffee during the second great era of Brazilian coffee, which began in 1910 and ended in the early 1950s,” continues Chico. “Those new

51 NUMBER ONE Hélcio Pereira da Silva Júnior reminds us that Brazil is the world’s leading coffee producer.

A NEW ERA

The tropical downpour has ended, the puddles already evaporating in the sunshine. We leave the fazenda to drive to the village of Carmo de Minas. The laboratory of the Carmo Coffees company (the exporting branch of Sertão Coffees) is at the top of a cobbled street, near the church. “Brazilian coffee has entered a new era in which quality is receiving greater attention,” explains Luiz Paulo Dias Pereira Filho, sitting in his office cluttered with metal boxes. “Not only are we working on the taste of our coffees, but we’re doing a better job of handling issues of corporate social and environmental responsibility and improving the traceability of our beans. And this work we’ve done means we now export to 35 countries and today are partnering with prestigious customers, like Nespresso.”

The Sertão company is indeed one of Nespresso’s suppliers of Yellow Bourbon, used in the Grand Cru Dulsão do Brasil, for example. This is proof that the bean quality and plantation

management meet the standards of the Swiss brand and its AAA Program (see inset next page).

A heady aroma of coffee permeates the office: this is the time when the sacks are selected based on customers’ tastes.

As we descend the small staircase to the laboratory, where we will watch employees roast a few beans, then sip from several cups before rating each brew, Luiz expresses his confidence in the future. “The ‘gourmet coffees’ are making headway in Brazil, but they still only account for two million bags out of the 50 million produced each year across the territory. There’s huge development potential for these high-quality coffees.”

His cousin, Hélcio Pereira da Silva Júnior (photo), agrees: He is Sales Director for the cooperative known as Unique Cafés (the branch of Sertão Coffees) that roasts and distributes the fazenda’s coffee across the country. “While •••

52

TRADITIONAL PLANTATION

Fazenda Ponte Alta takes visitors back to the era of the 19th century.

NESPRESSO AAA PROGRAM: POSITIVE AT EVERY LEVEL To guarantee production of quality coffee with positive environmental and social impact for growers, the fazendas that Nespresso selects are committed to respecting the AAA Sustainable Quality™ Program.

This program, in place in the state of Minas Gerais since 2005, invites coffee growers to be more rigorous in selecting their coffee beans

by methodically eliminating green cherries (those not yet of sufficient maturity) and developing more proactive sun-drying techniques. Employees enjoy better working conditions, as well (wages, hours, housing), and environmental issues are closely monitored.

Ecosystems and biodiversity are protected to preserve local water resources and prevent soil erosion.

producers are becoming more exacting about quality, consumers are choosing to drink better coffees. So we help them in refining their tastes by suggesting partner retail outlets where they can come learn about new flavours and get information on this product that’s so essential to the history of our country.”

EDUCATIONAL TOURS

Two hundred kilometres away, on the road back to Rio, in the valley of the Paraíba River, Roberto Freitas puts on his educator’s cap to explain coffee’s prominent place in the development of Brazil and the vital role that black slaves played in that construction. This former accountant became fascinated with the era of the first fazendas, to the point of actually stepping into the shoes of a great, 19th-century proprietor. In his coffee-baron costume, he conducts daily historic re-enactments for students from the surrounding area

53

HISTORY LESSON “Baron” Freitas recalls the role of slaves in the construction of Brazil.

“We are on the lands of the first great coffee era.”

or tourists that stop at the Fazenda Ponte Alta, in the town of Barra do Piraí. “We are on the lands of the first great coffee era. My educational tours show who really built this country and under what conditions,” declares this history buff, while taking us around the estate built in 1830 on 1,800 hectares of land. The site is vast and imposing, with soft green hills, animal herds driven by cowboys on horseback, period buildings bordered by Imperial palm trees. The inn (pousada) portion of the fazenda is home to four large guestrooms and a reputable restaurant for visitors wanting to explore the historic routes of Brazilian coffee. “Ponte Alta is the only fazenda that still has all its original buildings, includ-

Roberto Freitas

ing the senzalas, the cells that the slaves were crammed into. The plantation had up to 800 of them when the coffee economy was in full swing.

Brazil was the last Christian country to abolish the practice, back in 1888.”

This morning, a class from a nearby school is observing “Baron” Freitas’ performance.

The schoolchildren hold their breath during the staging of the day-to-day experience of the workers – the skin colour of these adolescents suggests that they are, for the most part, descendants of slaves. But, the moment the performance is over, the students scatter happily across the green grass and begin a spontaneous game of football. On the shady porch, Roberto Freitas listens to their reactions and their laughter. “This facet of history isn’t taught in the schools. It been 130 years since abolition: I think it’s time to talk about it.” n

54

ROBERTA AND HER BRIGADE

in the kitchens of her gourmet restaurant in the Jardim Botânico district.

CHEF to Watch

BRAZILIAN DISH

Thinly sliced heart of palm, marinated shrimp and egg in vinegar.

AFTER PAMPERING THE TASTE BUDS OF THE WORLD’S GREATS AT THE PALÁCIO DA ALVORADA, THE PRESIDENTIAL RESIDENCE IN BRASÍLIA, ROBERTA SUDBRACK MADE HER DREAM COME TRUE: OPENING HER OWN RESTAURANT. NOW SHE SHARES THE CULINARY TREASURES OF BRAZIL WITH THE WORLD, PLACING CARIOCA CUISINE IN A SPOTLIGHT AS HOT AS THE RIO SUN.

By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

Roberta Sudbrack

YES, CHEF!

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SELF-TAUGHT TALENT The chef forged

her culinary expertise on her own.

THE HEART OF PALM IS SO THINLY SLICED THAT, BENEATH THE TRANSLUCENT CURLS, you can make out the pale pink flesh

of the marinated shrimp. A “snow” of devilled egg adds a pastel hue to the montage. The fresh herbs and flower petals provide the only intense colours on the plate served on the raw wood table. Also on the menu this evening are a creamy corn puree served with salmon roe, a snapper steak – the red-skinned fish with white flesh – sprinkled with grilled herbs with wood-fire fragrance. Confit duck with onions, intrepidly tasty, marks the end of the savoury sequence. The meal ends in sweets with bomboloni (Italian donuts) filled with dulce de leche and placed atop custard. With the mignardises, one has a choice between a Nespresso Grand Cru prepared espresso-style, or a traditional cafezinho served in a long-spouted coffeepot. Though there is a menu that everyone can choose from here at Roberta Sudbrack’s restaurant dq, guests are energetically advised to go with the “carte blanche” menu composed by the chef. “I was the first chef in Brazil to offer this kind of menu that changes every day. That was ten years ago, when we opened, and you had to be crazy to try to tell customers what they should order! But it’s nature, the fisherman and the tides that dictate the menu, not me!” explains the chef.

HELPING HAND OF FATE

The little red house, tucked behind a pretty wrought-iron gate in the quiet neighbourhood around the Jardim Botânico (Botani-

FAVOURITE FOOTWEAR

Orange canvas sneakers.

“I always prefer taking the road less travelled.” cal Garden), near Lagoa, is a must for foodies in Rio. Yet nothing predestined Roberta Sudbrack to interpret this cuisine she has dubbed “modern Brazilian”. She owes her success and international renown – she’s collecting trophies (Latin America’s Best Female Chef 2015, a 2015 Michelin star) – to hard work, but also to an extraordinary professional path. “I’m from Porto Alegre, in southern Brazil. At 20, I left for the States, where my desire to cook first emerged. The only trick I had up my sleeve was the memory of my grandmother’s fried eggs. I learned everything from books and my first guinea pig was... my dog!” says this selftaught chef who celebrated her twentieth year in the business in December 2015. But desire and talent are not always enough to be one of the greats. It was the helping hand of fate that paved the way for Roberta’s dream to become a reality. “I started out preparing private dinners in Brasília, the capital. One night, during my second meal as a chef, I had the good fortune to serve the then-president of Brazil, Fernando Henrique Cardoso. The First Lady invited me to do more of the same, and so I went directly to the kitchens of the Palácio da Alvorada (the official residence of the President of the Federative Republic of Brazil). For seven years, I had the honour of serving the likes of King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia of Spain, Queen Elizabeth, Prince Charles, Prime Minister Tony Blair, Fidel Castro and all the Latin American presidents, but also Bill Clinton and French President Jacques

57

AU NATURAL Raw pumpkin

tartare with roasted pumpkin seeds, raisins, ginger and parsley.

ROBERTA, STREET-FOOD STYLE In addition to her gourmet restaurant, Roberta Sudbrack recently opened Da Roberta dj, selling only street food, and SudTruck, a mobile food truck in Rio – shrines to the hot dog, the burger and the pastrami sandwich! You can follow Roberta’s rip-roaring news stream on Instagram (@robertasudbrack), where she is particularly active.

Chirac...” Quite a debut for a young woman who had never taken a cooking class and never set foot in a brigade before overseeing the one at the presidential palace – with a staff composed entirely of servicemen! “At the end of Fernando Henrique Cardoso’s term, I rekindled my original dream of opening my own restaurant,” says the chef who makes white or orange canvas sneakers her stylistic signature.

ODE TO LOCAL PRODUCE

Street-food photos: @robertasudbrack.

“I had three job offers in São Paulo, and none in Rio. I chose the most difficult challenge by setting up a business here, in a city that didn’t have a great dining culture, unlike São Paulo.

WHERE MIGHT YOU ENCOUNTER ROBERTA IN RIO? FASANO AL MARE ds

“This Italian restaurant is run by one of the best chefs in Rio.” OLYMPE dd “The perfect restaurant for celebrating special occasions.”

JOBI df “This bar is in my neighbourhood and I go there every day.”

BAR DO MOMO dg “A very nice place with downto-earth food that’s an excellent value.”

GEPETTO dh “This is the place for the best fries in Rio!” You’ll find all the abovementioned locations on our map in the back of the magazine.

I always prefer taking the road less travelled,” she adds mischievously. Her niche remains unchanged: promoting the quality and diversity of the Brazilian terroir. Her favourite ingredients include the most basic resources from the local garden: okra, the seeds of which she turns into a veggie caviar, or pumpkin, which she prepares raw as a tartare. And, the way Roberta sees it, the adventure has just begun: “We’re still just infants!

We have extraordinary ingredients, but we don’t know how to use them to their fullest. We’re working with other chefs to do substantive, long-lasting work. It’s a long, hard road, but very exciting!” she exclaims happily, as she prepares one last dish.

The sopa de pão doce do meu avô (“my grandfather’s sweetened bread soup”) reflects her interpretation of popular culture and her desire to reach for the stars. “As night fell, I always saw my grandfather preparing his coffee with milk in a big cup. He dunked the morning’s bread into it and ate it before heading off to bed.” In Roberta’s version, a soup plate has replaced the cup, and a piece of brioche soaked in both coffee and cachaça (Brazilian rum) sits in rich custard, sprinkled with thin and crispy shards of heat-dried milk. Drops of coffee (Brazilian, of course!) snake out like coral branches across the surface. If Rio is the city of wonders, Roberta is undoubtedly one of them. n

HISTORY An Extraordinary Story

JACINTO:

The Coffee STRONGMAN IN 1905, AS THE GREEN GOLD RUSH GATHERED MOMENTUM, MILLIONS OF EUROPEANS CAME TO TRY THEIR LUCK IN THE NEW WORLD. LEGEND HAS IT THAT JACINTO WAS ONE OF THEM: A WORKER WHO WANTED TO MAKE A NAME FOR HIMSELF IN THE COFFEE INDUSTRY, USING HIS ARMS ALONE.

By Kim Levy Illustration Icinori

AFTER A CROSSING OF SEVERAL WEEKS TO REACH THE SOUTH AMERICAN COAST FROM SOUTHERN EUROPE,

Jacinto disembarked from a bulky steamer docked at the port of Santos. This industrial town 60 kilometres south of São Paulo is where folktales say the young man’s exploits began. It is easy to imagine this part of his existence. The boy resembled his companions, all Latin people from Europe, sweating in the sweltering Brazilian climate. Just one thing, still unseen by the world, set this man apart from the rest: his impressive strength…and his desire to unleash it.

From the new quays built in 1905 to meet the growing demand for coffee in the West, Jacinto studied a long line of haulers loading an outbound ship. Behind their bent heads, they balanced burlap bags chock-full of green coffee. It reminded him strongly of an anthill. So that was the life of a worker here: heroically strolling from the warehouse to the ship’s hold. “I’ll be the best of them,” he thought to himself with a smile. He set off for São Paulo to find lodging and took several days to adapt to his new life, even though everything reminded him of the old continent: the architecture, the Belle Époque style and the astonishing reproduction of London’s Big Ben clock that he glimpsed along the way. The English and Portuguese bourgeois manufacturers seemed familiar to him as well. It is they who finally hired him to work at Santos.

In the port, the largest in all of Latin America, it was men – not the brand-new cranes for the port’s goods traffic – that packaged and conveyed the delicate green beans harvested in the mountains of the Paraíba Valley. Jacinto was untroubled: every day, without batting an eye, he hauled the

83 bags required to receive the minimum wage. But his courage annoyed the other workers. They saw him as a rival and decided to confront him publicly. Contests of strength were held on the docks. People bet on the most muscular men, even though those who had seen Jacinto at work knew the others had no chance. He wasn’t just tough – he was a giant who managed to stack five 60-kilo bags on the back of his neck. The stunned crowd immediately nicknamed him “Samson of the pier”, a nod to the mythological hero whose strength lay in his hair. In photos of the period by photographer José Marques Pereira, a man is immortalised –smiling in a striped undershirt – while accomplishing this astonishing feat. The shot was used on postcards, the popular medium of the early century. But could it be proven that it was indeed Jacinto? And how could such a load be lifted?

Even today, historians are attempting to substantiate the theory behind such an exploit. “After interviewing the Santos handlers and baggers in the 1960s,” says Bruno Bortoloto do Carmo, a researcher at the Santos Museu do Café, “we are convinced that two bags already formed a load that few people could carry. Perhaps some of the bags contained other, lighter goods, such as peanuts?” But these doubts do not keep this coffee museum from displaying a statue of Jacinto carrying five sacks. In Brazil, he embodies the man who, some seventeen years after the end of slavery, helped build this country – with nothing but sheer strength. n

59

The New

ARTISANS

OF TASTE

ALL AROUND RIO, YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS ARE “REDISCOVERING” THEIR REGION’S NATIVE FOODS. ONE INITIATIVE PROMOTING THESE PRODUCTS IS AN INNOVATIVE MARKET THAT DRAWS FOODIES AWARE OF THE VALUE OF BEING “LOCAVORES”. MEET THESE DEVOTED CRAFTSPERSONS WHO ARE REDEFINING THE INDUSTRY.

By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

TERROIR to watch

BRUNO AND FELIPE had

intended to become veterinarians.

They became scallop farmers instead.

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THE SWEET FLESH is enhanced by the petite, mild pepper.

THE SPECIES KNOWN AS

“Lion’s Paw” hails from the coast of Brazil.

63

developing interest in locavorism and growing predilection for organic. All that was left to do was to find a place where they could introduce Cariocas to their shellfish.

THE NEW PEARLS OF BRAZIL THE SEA IS AS SMOOTH AS GLASS, BUT UNDER A HEAVILY OVERCAST SKY. THE ILHA GRANDE (“BIG ISLAND”) EMERGES FROM THE HAZE AFTER A TWENTY-MINUTE CROSSING. The steep hills in a thousand

shades of green slowly become more distinct. On this grey day, the heavenly oasis lying 150 kilometres west off Rio’s coast could be taken for the mysterious island of Jules Verne’s novel. The diminutive motor boat speeds headlong toward the Praia Longa (“Long Beach”). This protected bay, accessible only by sea, is the island’s smallest. Felipe is here with Bruno, his friend and partner, for a day’s work.

The cutting-edge buildings and electricity of the carioca city seem centuries away. The “office” of these young entrepreneurs is a 4m² barge cobbled together with salvaged wood, where lanternas (“baskets”) sway as they dry in the air. Once the boat’s engine is cut, the men clamber onto the structure, anchored ten metres down, and put on their work attire: a neoprene wetsuit, mask, snorkel and flippers. Felipe and Bruno descend into the crystal-clear water. Soon, they bring up lanternas filled with scallop shells of all sizes. The shape and burnt-orange colour of these Nodipecten nodosus earned them the name “Lion’s paws”. The 20 grams of scallop flesh inside, in a beautiful, shimmering white, is destined to end up in a dish at one of the gourmet restaurants in Rio or São Paulo. “Our main clients are the bigname restaurants, like Chef Thomas Troisgros’ Olympe, or Aprazíve under Chef Ana Castilho. We’ll also be supplying the Olympic Games this summer. Scallops are an excellent source of protein, better than meat. And I can tell you that tomorrow’s champions will be eating shellfish from Ilha Grande!” Felipe recounts enthusiastically between dives.

This Carioca da gema (“pure Carioca”), however, was not destined to become a seafood producer: “I grew up in Rio, but I used to come to the coast on weekends with my family. I studied to become a veterinarian, then worked in a veterinary clinic. I got so bored that I looked for a way to be closer to nature, my true passion. I just can’t work hemmed in by four walls! I asked three of my friends if they’d be interested in starting a business with me farming vieiras (“scallops”). Nuno was studying biology. Bruno, who’d also planned to go into the veterinary profession, had discovered aquaculture while on an internship in Spain.

Bernardo was learning management and accounting. So, between the four of us, we bought a fazenda (“farm”) on Ilha Grande.” Their small company is betting on their fellow

We’re back in Rio, on the waterfront of the Baía de Guanabara in the Centro district. Inside the neoclassical building of the Casa França-Brasil, things are buzzing.

Fifty producers, including Felipe and his merry band, have gathered for two days to present the new pearls of the Brazilian terroir at this novel market called a “Junta Local”.

A DJ mixes tunes, the ambiance is energetically youthful and there are tattoos aplenty. Carioca hipsters mingle with baby strollers. Here, you can sample and purchase chili sauces, cheeses, fresh bread, meat and more. You can also nibble delicious street food with flavours from around the world. The queue to grab a juicy burger is as long as the lines in Brooklyn. At one produce stall, the fruits and vegetables come from a farm 150 kilometres outside Rio that has been certified as an “organic farm” for twelve years. There are small peaches, cassava, acerola fruit, petite cherries – that produce a highly prized, tart juice – bananas, okra, lettuce, fresh herbs… the variety is astounding. Nearby, on his Charcutaria Pasqualette stand, Pedro, with his shaved head and dark glasses, is offering •••

Their “office” is a 4m² barge cobbled together with salvaged wood.

THE ENTREPRENEURIAL QUARTET

of Bernardo, Nuno, Bruno and Felipe with a young guest chef invited to prepare their seafood.

64 THIAGO GOMIDE NASSER,

a political science graduate, organises the Junta Local market.

There are already markets in Rio, of course, but they’re not very interesting. The vendors behind the stalls rarely even know what they’re selling.” After that, the evolution was swift: “The first Junta Local was in August 2014, shortly after we got the website up and running. People thought I was crazy.

There were only 18 producers. But soon we were attracting the interest of young, educated urbanites who wanted to get back into ‘food culture’. Junta Local is a way to keep that great energy going.”

CULTURAL REVOLUTION

Today, Thiago sees new artisans reserving stands who were visitors just yesterday. “Our only selection criterion is that it’s good! As for pricing, we suggest that a percentage of sales be returned to us, but we don’t require anything.

It’s up to them to decide. And they do it naturally.” Still, this thirty-something coordinator knows full well that convincing his fellow countrymen will be a long row to hoe. “We have the image of being a fertile, exotic country. And that totally contradicts reality. Brazil has historically been a poor country; the rich imported their goods. And the poor had to settle for local products that actually have had a bad reputation. But we live in exciting times today. At last, people are talking about ‘taste’ in Brazil! It’s a true cultural revolution that’s taking place through food. If you don’t want a country that produces nothing but soy, start by consuming foods grown here at home. In Brazil, people often prefer salmon, but salmon doesn’t come from our waters. On the other hand, it’s impossible to find sardines here, yet they’re plentiful in our waters. And 200 metres off the Copacabana coast, you can catch delicious fish!” Outside the Casa França-Brasil is the stand belonging to Felipe, Bruno and their comrades from Vieiras da Ilha Grande. They are offering samples of their scallop ceviche – the raw flesh with a little olive oil and lemon juice, topped with a small, droplet-shaped mild pepper called a biquinho ( “little beak” in Portuguese). The scallop’s sweet flesh is heightened by this delicate red pearl that explodes in the mouth. Another Brazilian treasure waiting to be discovered. n

“Our goal is to offer good things to eat and pique curiosity.”

old-fashioned pork rillettes that you can’t find anywhere else in Rio. Weaving between the stands is the organiser, Thiago Gomide Nasser, keeping the wheels of the event turning smoothly.

Boasting a beard, unstructured haircut and basic t- shirt, he blends right in with the day’s visitors. “The idea of the Junta Local is to bring together producers and artisans to keep middlemen to a minimum, which keeps costs down. It’s also a chance for these entrepreneurs to connect and build synergistic relationships. Our goal is to offer good things to eat and pique consumer curiosity. There was just no place to do that in Brazil. Junta Local occupies this space. You can also order on the website and pick up your foods onsite,” says the young man, fluent in three languages. “I’m not from Rio. I grew up in Brasília, I was born on the West Coast in the U.S., and I lived in Canada. I came here to complete my Master’s in Political Science. But I wasn’t very happy at the university – I preferred cooking for my friends and relatives.” With his sharp mind and contemporary good looks, Thiago is representative of this switched-on, plugged-in population that is both enterprising and responsible: “My generation is interested in cuisine as a whole. Consumers understand that ‘good taste’ is also a political statement.”

Thiago decided to follow his heart. “I wanted to work in the food world, but I didn’t know how. Make it? Talk about it?

I started co-hosting speakers’ presentations, but I needed an event as a platform, and the idea of a market was born.

Thiago Gomide Nasser

> For upcoming Junta Local dates and locations in Rio de Janeiro, visit www.juntalocal.com

65

A RAINBOW OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES,

granolas, rillettes and chili sauces.

THE YOUNG PRODUCERS

at Junta Local are all enthusiastic connoisseurs of “good taste”!

66

FITTING SESSION

at La Casa Geração fashion school.

STREET Style

made in

FAVELA NURTURING BUDDING YOUNG TALENT IN POOR NEIGHBOURHOODS, SUPPORTING THEIR CREATIVITY IN THE WORLD OF FASHION AND GIVING THEM WINGS TO FLY ON THEIR OWN: THIS IS THE WORK OF LA CASA GERAÇÃO, A SCHOOL IN RIO’S MOST DYNAMIC FAVELA.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Jean-Christophe Husson

THE RED HOUSE IS AN INVENTIVE COLLECTION OF MATERIALS PERCHED ON AN ESCARPMENT OF THE “MORRO DO IRMÃOS” in the cenre of the Vidigal fave-

la. Getting there requires venturing all the way to the end of Leblon Beach, climbing a tight and twisted street and passing beneath a forest of electrical wires that more or less clandestinely connect hundreds of colourful houses squeezed against one another. The casa has a dizzying view down to the ocean; tropical birds sing overhead, scraps of samba emit from the window. As we pass the front door, the music is drowned out by laughter and the sound of the six sewing machines the students are using to put the finishing touches on their graduation collections. On the cutting table are scattered spools of thread, recycled buttons, shimmering fabrics and dozens of fashion magazines. This is the last week of classes and a strange sort of effervescence has seeped into the three small rooms that form this unusual fashion school. “Our objective was to single out young talents in disadvantaged neighbourhoods and help them become more professional,” explain Andrea Fasanello and Nadine Gonzalez, the two forty-somethings who founded

La Casa Geração (“generation” in Portuguese). The first, an elegant Carioca, travelled around Europe before returning to her hometown to start a variety of artistic projects. The second, a vivacious French designer, landed in Rio in 2005 – almost by accident – and hasn’t left since. Together, the two women formed the ModaFusion association, the driving force behind several fashionrelated development projects in the ghettos of Rio. The momentum of those undertakings led to their opening this original school in August 2013 in Vidigal, a favela that has been clinging to the steep slopes of the Morro, between two upscale neighbourhoods, for three quarters of a century. “The school is free for students from the favelas, but the admission criteria are quite strict,” Nadine emphasises. “Out of the four hundred applications, we pick just twenty students. Generally speaking, young people from the favelas are much more creative than the teens from affluent neighbourhoods, but they’re not at all ready to make a start in the fashion world. We give them hands-on, practical training to encourage their creativity and, most importantly, give them the tools they need to penetrate the working world. We have an objective of 100% professional placement.”

•••

67

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YOUNG TALENTS The students are introduced to the many professions in the fashion world before presenting their graduation collections.

From left to right, students Pedro Araújo, Rodrigo Guedes and Valeska Mitrano, with models and a makeup artist.

CONCRETE CURRICULUM

It’s lunchtime. Under the mango tree that shades the courtyard, the students discuss their summer plans – perfecting their book, working for a specific label, designing a new collection. “For a time, I did some coursework with a traditional fashion school, but it was too theoretical, I don’t feel like I learned very much,” recounts Alice Calzolari, 24, with a pair of tailor’s scissors tattooed on her arm. “The teachers at Casa Geração have taught us better ways of imagining our designs, giving them meaning, making them more attractive and selling them better.” This concrete curriculum, spread over two semesters and self-financed by the sales of garments made at the school, includes the history and anthropology of fashion, styling and design, advanced sewing techniques, trend research and the fundamen-

The trained designers can now set off for career in fashion. tals of marketing and brand management, all enlivened by regularly-scheduled presentations by fashion professionals. “But what helped me progress the most were the projects we did over the course of the year,” reflects Andrew Melo, 21, with curly hair and a slender face, who proudly shows off his designs on the screen of his smartphone. “Most students have one thing in mind when they get here: becoming famous,” says Nadine, smiling. “We show them that there are many different

69

READY FOR THE REAL WORLD These young people learn to be exacting professionals. Here, Thargus Luna with model-making teacher Conceição Nascimento. Below, Rodrigo Severiano poses beside a pair of sneakers he customised for his teens collection.

trades in the fashion industry, and we help them find the work that best matches their talent or personality.”

BEST SOCIAL PROJECT

La Casa Geração is not the only carioca entity to go into the favelas to connect with young people, but its effectiveness caught up with its aspirations in less than three years.

In November 2015, it received the EcoEra prize for best fashion-related social project in Brazil, awarded in São Paulo. Two weeks later, the City of Rio, in turn, crowned the casa with glory, awarding a trophy for its innovative educational methods. In the space of a few seasons, and despite the sometimes tense atmosphere crackling through the favela, the school has gained national and international recognition. Beyond being a wonderful social initiative, it is now viewed by major fashion brands as a talent pool.

Andrea and Nadine have succeeded in their quest: training designers to render them capable of pursuing a career in the field. At age 29, Rodrigo Severiano is the most senior member of this class. With a slim moustache and laughing eyes, the young man announces that his teen collection will be distributed in France and Brazil throughout 2016. “I used to work in design and screen-printing in São Paulo before dropping it all to follow my partner to Rio, but our relationship didn’t survive. I worked several different jobs to keep my head above water – I could have lost my way completely. But, one day, I tried my luck at La Casa Geração and it changed the course of my life. The classes I took here brought back my desire to create.” In the hustle-bustle of the favela, the fragile red house that is home to La Casa Geração rocks gently in the downdraft as each young talent takes flight. n

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CULT Object

GAME, SET

and bats IN RIO, THE DAYS UNFOLD TO THE BEAT OF BOUNCING RUBBER BALLS BEING BATTED TO AND FRO BY KIDS FROM SEVEN TO 77. THE GAME OF FRESCOBOL, NOW AN INSTITUTION, IS SIMPLICITY ITSELF, FROM ITS NOMINAL RULES TO THE STREAMLINED BEAUTY OF ITS WOODEN BEACH BATS.

By Kim Levy Photo Florent Tanet

IT IS A BRISK, RHYTHMIC THUDDING THAT PEPPERS THE AIR OF RIO’S BEACHES, FROM PRAIA DO DIABLO TO ARPOADOR TO RECREIO. It is the sound of a rubber

ball, six centimetres in diameter, hitting the sturdy, lightweight wood of oblong “beach bats” (sometimes termed “paddles” or “racquets”). Two players face each other, a few metres apart, and whack the projectile back and forth between them with metronomic consistency. More experienced players, who savour lightning returns, emit deep grunts of effort as they swing, like one hears at major tennis tournaments. Frescobol, one of the many popular activities practiced year-round by the Cariocas on their sands, saw a sensational debut in 1946. The seaside resort owes one of its most popular sports to Lian Pontes de Carvalho, a carpenter who specialised in manufacturing surfboards. It was he who carved the first beach bat, which he kept for his personal use on his trips to the beach. It was also he who made this game a sport with neither a score nor rules, other than attaining the highest number of volleys possible without the ball touching the ground. For both players – who form a team – the key to consistency lies in an energetic, focused stroke. It takes time to get accustomed to the beach bat: the hardness of the material, the uniform thickness, the handle, the curve of the head, all render the game more challenging, amplifying the slightest impulse. “A good beach bat weighs around 350 grams, but a good offensive frescobol player may prefer a lighter armament, and a player with a more defensive style, a slightly heavier one,” says Jorge Brisson, a frescobol history buff.

There are beach bats of every ilk: cedar and pine, of course,

but also cinnamon wood, cherry and mahogany, varnished or resin-coated. “Nowadays, you can find them in carbon fibre and some really handsome ones in fibreglass,” shares this avid player. For purists, wood, as the original material, remains de rigueur, with only an adhesive grip to avoid calluses on the hands.

A municipal decree prohibits the sport on the waterfront during holiday periods and weekends. When there are few people on the sand, however, the frescobolista pairs come out of the net-protected zones established for them where the sand meets the sidewalk. Relaxed, with only swimwear as uniform, the most expert demonstrate dazzling technique. Neophytes, on the other hand, see it as a good way to dry in the sun after a swim. All take advantage of the time to perfect their tans. “It’s very representative of the Rio lifestyle: an outdoor activity that you play while looking sexy,” enthuses Harry Brantly who, in 2009, founded the London-based company Frescobol Carioca that manufactures beach bats based on the vintage original model, in hopes of propagating the Brazilian lifestyle abroad. “The beach bats are individually handcrafted by skilled ‘marceneiros’ (woodworkers) from antique furniture off cuts and covered with a strong resin coating. Each one is unique,” explains the young entrepreneur. Though the sticker price of these stylish rackets is markedly higher than the basic model, they are as popular with ball-batters around the world as they are with the most competitive Cariocas. And the legacy of Lian Pontes de Carvalho carries on: in February 2015, frescobol was officially declared part of Brazil’s cultural heritage. n

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HIDDEN Treasure

urban JUNGLE IN THE MIDST OF RIO’S URBAN INTENSITY, JUST MINUTES FROM THE BEACHES AND THE TUMULTUOUS CENTRO, LIES A MASSIVE FOREST SPANNING NEARLY 40 SQUARE KILOMETRES. HEMMED IN BY THE CITY, THIS OASIS BEEN THREATENED SEVERAL TIMES BY HUMAN PRESENCE. IT NEVERTHELESS PUSHES BACK AND REMAINS BOTH A VITAL FEATURE OF THE CITY AND A MAJOR TOURIST ATTRACTION.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Jean-Christophe Husson

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From the heights of Tijuca, one sees the mountain’s wooded slopes plunging down to meet the city’s first buildings.

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MARCELO DE ANDRADE, ECOLOGIST

BRUNO MORAES, SCIENTIST “I’m wrapping up my biology studies with a Master’s in the social behaviour of primates. At first, the howler monkeys we introduced here in September 2015 moved around a lot, exploring their new territory. Then they narrowed that perimeter when they saw that they had enough food and were relatively safe.”

“Half of Rio’s favelas were illegally built on the forested mountainsides of Tijuca. Now, with the Pro-Natura association I founded in 1985, we’re implementing a development policy with these districts to try to preserve the forest. We’re installing rooftop water tanks to collect and filter rain water instead of pumping up the ground water. We also have a system for processing organic waste to generate biogas, which can be turned into electricity or fuel. This way, we’re addressing two problems: access to cheap, renewable energy and garbage collection.”

B

BRUNO,TOMAZ AND LUISA BRUSH ASIDE A FEW VINES, STEP OVER THE ROTTING TRUNK OF A FALLEN TREE,WEAVE AROUND A WILD BANANA TREE and continue their trek over the spongy

ground. Engulfed in the verdant web of the humid jungle, the three young people move stealthily beneath trees twenty times their height. The disconcerting call of a toucan pierces the damp air under the canopy; a few shrilling insects zigzag between the trunks. Bruno Moraes slows and raises the antenna he holds in his right hand: a low beeping sound tells us he has located one of howler monkeys recently released in this green oasis amidst the metropolis of Rio de Janeiro. “Do you hear that?” he whispers. His companions nod, silently. These three science students, ages 23 to 25, are part of the network of volunteers working with the programme reintroducing animal species to the Tijuca Forest. Four howler monkeys were released in this sector in September 2015, each with a GPS tracking device around its calf. “We track them to observe their movements, define their territory and know what they eat,” says Bruno, as he resumes walking.

The mountainous Tijuca Forest, 15 kilometres long and two to three kilometres wide, is often called the world’s largest urban forest. This green area of nearly 4,000 hectares spreading beneath the gaze of the celebrated Christ the Redeemer

statue (710 metres) is unusual in that it is not set in the city’s outskirts, but in its geographical centre: Rio’s neighbourhoods were built around this botanical haven as the city slowly grew into a megalopolis of eight million inhabitants. Another fascinating fact is that this jungle, utterly impassable in some areas, was almost completely replanted after being razed to the ground in the 19th century to make space for cropland, including coffee plantations. It was Emperor Peter II who decided to begin reforestation following the tragic consequences of the lost forest cover: soil erosion, dried-up springs, heat waves, scarce wildlife. Starting in 1861, the head of state bought up the fazendas (farms) from the coffee barons and had 100,000 trees replanted in the space of fifteen years.

“The problem is that the reforestation was done without any animal life,” remarks Ernesto Vivero de Castro, Director of the Tijuca Forest National Park dk, focused on preserving the flora and fauna of this uncommon landscape and managing tourism on the site. “The plants and trees need this animal biodiversity, in fact, to disperse their seeds and regenerate.”

Agoutis – large rodents with slender legs – were first reintroduced here in 2010, along with various parrots, wild •••

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GUILHERME DOLABELLA, CLIMBING ENTHUSIAST

OTÁVIO BARROS, HIKING GUIDE

“Rio is a magical city. You can practice any sport here, by the sea, in the mountains.

I’m an engineer in the Centro and I frequently go climbing on the Tijuca’s steep cliffs after work. I love this place, where you can be out in nature while still being within a city of eight million people. It was only a few years ago that Cariocas were afraid to venture here at all; the roads were reputed to be hangouts for thieves and traffickers.

Since the pacification policy in 2008, people feel much safer here.”

“When you’re up above the Vale Encantado favela, you can see the buildings below, see the city in great detail. Still, we feel quite isolated, as only three buses a day go down into town from here. In 2007, we formed an ecotourism cooperative to draw more visitors here. We opened an organic restaurant and offer hiking excursions from one to five hours long.

We also started holding a music festival.

So things are gradually becoming more active here, without endangering the forest.”

cats, capuchin monkeys and coatis, the South-American cousin to the raccoon. All of this took place before the programme released the howler monkeys we are tracking this morning.

THREE MILLION VISITORS

The work being done by the National Park scientists does come head-to-head with a major challenge: humans. “Each year, three million visitors come into the forest, including those going up to the Christ the Redeemer statue,” explains Álvaro Silva de Souza, who manages the public reception facilities.

“Some careless people leave trash behind, others cause fires, some abandon their dogs, who end up praying on the smaller animals...” Marcelo Rheingantz, who oversees the reintroduction programme, lists other problems tied to the forest’s urban location: “The air is polluted, the rain is more acidic and urban expansion is an important issue. As Rio grows, the favelas eat away the mountain slopes bit by bit, gradually destroying the forested areas.” But both men agree that, generally speaking, Cariocas are more sensitive to environmental issues. “The forest can be seen from anywhere in the city – so people are very aware of it. The Cariocas want to preserve it.”

In the Vale Encantado favela dl, Otávio Barros knows the history story of Tijuca like the back of his hand. His family has lived for a hundred and fifty years in this hamlet, a half-hour’s drive from downtown. “In the 1880s, the first dwellers came here to grow vegetables or flowers. They hauled their crops down by mule to sell them at the Rio market,” says this forty-something gentleman who is now a hiking guide. We are following him along a jungle trail, lulled by the trickling murmur of the springs. He points out an isolated coffee tree, a reminder of the time when the forest was a huge plantation, and resumes his explanation. “By the 1950s, when the city of Rio had spread, there was greater demand for granite and families began to extract it from the mountain. In a few years, the quarries had disfigured the landscape. It wasn’t until the Earth Summit in Rio in 1992 that the municipality suspended this activity, the scars of which were visible from anywhere in the city.” Since then, Mother Nature has reclaimed her territory. At the end of our walk, Otávio takes us out on a promontory, where our gaze sweeps over the entire panorama of Rio. The mountain’s wooded slopes plunge down to meet the city’s first buildings.

Otávio smiles at our wonderment: “From here, you can see how connected the city and the forest truly are. The Tijuca is absolutely vital – the Tijuca is the lungs of Rio.” n

In the 1880s, the first dwellers grew vegetables and flowers here that they sold down at the Rio market.

tropical TREATS BRAZIL IS HOME TO A CARNIVAL OF COLOURS, SOUNDS AND FLAVOURS, FROM SMOOTH AND SWEET TO TANGY AND REFRESHING. YOU’LL FIND THEM HERE IN THESE SELECT RECIPES, ALL MADE TO BE SAVOURED WITH NESPRESSO GRANDS CRUS.

By Marie Leteuré Photos Jérôme Bilic

View Collection Espresso cups (Nespresso).

PASSION FRUIT MOUSSE & VOLLUTO DECAFFEINATO SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 3 minutes REFRIGERATION TIME: 4 hours INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Volluto

Decaffeinato (6 x 40 ml).

For the recipe: 20 passion fruit - 12 tbsp. water - 100 g sugar - 6 gelatine sheets (12 g) - 20 cl single cream - 200 g diced fruit (mango, strawberries, kiwi).

Cut the passion fruit in half, scooping the pulp into a sieve as you go, pressing pulp with the back of a spoon to squeeze out all the juice. n Soften gelatine in a bowl of cold water. n Boil the 12 tbsp. water and sugar for 3 minutes. n Remove from heat, add the drained gelatine, then the passion fruit juice, and let cool. n Whip the cream, then fold gently

into the mixture. Pour into small bowls or cups and refrigerate for 4 hours. n Garnish with diced fruit just before serving. n Serve with a Volluto Decaffeinato Espresso.

A PERFECT MATCH: A creamy recipe of milk and fruit that brings out Volluto’s fruity note: it’s the ideal taste combination!

Bowls (BHV Marais). Spoons (Sabre). Wooden tray (CSAO).

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Bowls, napkin (Fleux). Spoons (The Conran Shop).

GOURMET Coffee

Pixie Livanto cup (Nespresso).

DOCE DE ABACATE & LIVANTO SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 5 minutes REFRIGERATION TIME: 2 hours INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Livanto

(6 x 40 ml).

For the recipe: 4 ripe but firm avocados - 40 g cane sugar - 2 limes.

For the crumble: 50 g flour - 50 g ground almonds - 50 g butter - 50 g cane sugar - 30 g grated coconut.

Preheat oven to 200° C (gas mark 6). n Blend all crumble ingredients until the mixture is crumbly. n Spread on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and bake about 5 minutes until golden brown. Remove from oven and set aside. n Cut the avocados in half, remove the seeds and place the flesh in a food processor bowl with the sugar and lime juice and peels, and blend until

smooth and creamy. n Divide the avocado cream into serving glasses and refrigerate 2 hours. Sprinkle crumble on top before serving. n Serve with a Livanto Espresso.

A PERFECT MATCH: The Livanto’s grain and caramel notes echo the sweetness of the dessert, and the coffee’s final fruity note prolongs the fresh feeling of the lime.

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80 BOLO CREMOSO DE MILHO VERDE & ARPEGGIO

of Arpeggio (6 x 40 ml) - 6 x 30 ml frothed milk - 6 x 30 ml drinkable coconut milk a few pieces of orange peel.

For the recipe: 500 g drained canned/ jarred corn - 3 eggs - 250 g sweetened condensed milk - 20 cl coconut milk - 40 g cornmeal - 7 g baking powder.

Preheat oven to 180° C (gas mark 4).

Line a rectangular baking pan with parchment paper. n Place the ingredients in a food processor bowl and mix in spurts for a few seconds, as the preparation must not become too liquefied. n Pour into pan and bake 45 minutes. Let cool completely and cut into small, regularly sized pieces. n Serve with a Cappuccino made with an

Arpeggio Espresso: prepare the coffee (40 ml), add 30 ml of frothed milk, then 30 ml of coconut milk and a pinch of grated orange peel.

A PERFECT MATCH: The bold flavour of this dessert calls for a delicious, full-flavoured beverage, like this Arpeggio made cappuccino-style with coconut milk and citrus zest.

View Collection Cappuccino cup (Nespresso).

Plate, napkin, spoon (Zara Home).

SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 45 minutes INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules

81 Pure Collection Espresso cup (Nespresso).

Bowls (BHV Marais). Spoon (Sabre).

ROMEU E JULIETA CAKE & CIOCATTINO SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 1 minute REFRIGERATION TIME: 4 hours INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of

Ciocattino (6 x 40 ml) - 6 x 1 pinch red Kampot pepper or Sichuan pepper (optional).

For the recipe: 180 g biscuits - 80 g melted butter - 500 g fromage frais (for cheesecake) - 100 g sugar - 1 lime - 8 gelatine sheets (16 g) - 20 cl whipping cream - 200 g guava jam.

Soak the gelatine in cold water to soften. n Chop the biscuits, add butter, then pack the crumbs into the bottom of a round cake pan lined with plastic wrap. n Drain the gelatine and melt 2 seconds in the microwave. n Blend the fromage frais and sugar with a rubber spatula. Add the lime juice and peel, gelatine, whipped cream and 2 tbsp. of jam. n Spread the mixture into the mould and refrigerate. Heat the remaining jam for a few seconds,

let cool slightly, then pour over the top of the cake. Refrigerate at least 4 hours. (This recipe can also be used to make individual cakes.) n Serve with a Ciocattino Espresso,

optionally topped with a pinch of hot pepper.

A PERFECT MATCH: The cocoa powder flavour of the Ciocattino balances the dessert’s sweetness. For a spicier, woodier effect, the pinch of pepper will work wonders.

Pure Collection Recipe glass and spoon (Nespresso).

DOCINHOS DE CAIPIRINHA & COSI SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 50 minutes REFRIGERATION TIME: 4 hours INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Cosi (6 x 40 ml)

- 6 x 80 g crushed ice - 6 x 1 tbsp. cane sugar syrup - 6 x 2 tbsp. lime juice.

For the recipe: 400 g sweetened condensed milk - 20 g + 10 g butter - 50 ml cachaça - 1 lime - 60 g grated coconut.

Zest the lime and mix it with the coconut. n In a saucepan, heat the condensed milk with the butter over low heat for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring constantly. n When the milk comes away clean from the sides of the saucepan, add the cachaça, 2 tbsp. lemon juice and stir again 5 to 10 minutes. n Pour into a bowl, let cool and refrigerate. n With lightly buttered hands, form balls, then roll

balls in coconut. Place in small paper candy cups. n Prepare a Caipirinha coffee (alcohol-free) with a Cosi Espresso:

place the ice in the Recipe glass with the cane syrup and lime juice, then add the coffee and stir.

A PERFECT MATCH: The bracing freshness of this Cosi beverage counterbalances the smooth, creamy sweetness of the dessert.

Napkins (Fleux). The misuse of alcohol is dangerous for your health. Please drink responsibly.

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BRAZILIAN PUDDING & ENVIVO LUNGO SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 1 hour INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Envivo Lungo

Plates (Sentou Galerie). Spoons (The Conran Shop).

(6 x 110 ml) - 6 x 20 ml cold milk.

For the recipe: 200 g stale bread - 60 cl milk - 300 g cane sugar - 8 tbsp. water - 6 eggs - 50 g melted butter - 1 vanilla bean - 1 tsp. of cinnamon - 80 g cornmeal - 2 capsules of Envivo Lungo (2 x 110 ml) - 30 g toasted grated coconut.

PIXIE Envivo Lungo cup (Nespresso).

Soak the bread in half the milk. n Add 150 g of the sugar to the water and boil until it becomes an amber-coloured caramel. Pour the caramel into a round cake pan, let cool. n In a blender, mix the eggs, remaining sugar, butter, seeds from the vanilla bean, cinnamon, cornmeal and the bread. Add the 2 coffees and remaining milk, blend again for a few seconds, then pour over the caramel. n Place the pan into a larger pan halffilled with hot water, cover with foil and

bake 55 minutes in an oven preheated to 180° C (gas mark 4), removing the foil 15 minutes before the end of the cooking time. n Turn out and sprinkle with coconut. n Serve with an Envivo Lungo prepared with 20 ml of cold milk.

A PERFECT MATCH: The sweetness of the cinnamon custard combined with the intensity of the new Lungo made with milk brings out the coffee’s final, spicy note.

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EN ROUTE TO EXCELLENCE

ANTWERP: COFFEE PORT OF CALL AS IT TRAVELS FROM TREE TO CUP,NESPRESSO GRAND CRU COFFEE UNDERGOES A VAST NUMBER OF QUALITY CONTROLS TO GUARANTEE PERFECTION.WHEN STOPPING IN THE PORT OF ANTWERP,THE GREEN COFFEE FROM AROUND THE WORLD IS SUBJECT TO A BATTERY OF TESTS BEFORE SETTING OFF AGAIN FOR SWITZERLAND.

By Nadia Hamam Photos Stéphane Remael

NESPRESSO Quality

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85% of Nespresso coffee passes through the port of Antwerp in Belgium.

ANTWERP

MOLENBERGNATIE. QUAY 5. 10:00 A.M. The containers are carefully arranged in numbered rows. The names of the countries of origin – Brazil, Colombia, Ethiopia, India – are clues to the nature of the long-haul cargo.

This scene has unfolded in exactly the same way since the 16th century, when the Belgian port of Antwerp was the link between the Indies and the New World, channelling the flow of raw coffee. Today, Nespresso’s sup-

While on this Antwerpian stopover, between the just-arrived shipping container and the truck taking the green coffee to its Swiss roasting destination, nothing is left to chance.

Unloading, sampling, warehousing, preservation: a strict traceability system is honoured by professionals committed to coffee quality.

All to preserve that which gives Nespresso Grands Crus its exceptional character: the physical perfection and sensory richness of the green coffee.

PAMPERED BEANS

This morning, with the chill of autumn in the air, the warehouse staff begins the day with a meticulous inspection of the container.

Should any anomaly be detected, the vessel will be isolated; later, if need be, it could be

Map: Anne Chaperon.

plies travel this same maritime route. Once in Antwerp, it may go to one of two places: Molenbergnatie or Seabridge, warehouses dedicated to Nespresso’s green coffee. The brand carries out identical quality-control protocols at these sites to ensure the excellence of its beans from around the world.

87 Raw coffee samples are collected for quality control.

definitively removed. When the metal container is opened, jute sacks of green coffee, weighing 60 to 70 kilograms each, slide down to the conveyor belt. An initial inspection verifies their weight and moisture level and removes any units showing the slightest defect. Then comes the key sampling phase: a small amount of coffee is taken from each sack, then stored in a paper bag, providing a summary of the cargo.

Once labelled, this sample is divided into two parts: one will go to the Nespresso physical and sensory analysis offices in Switzerland, which will accept or reject each load. The other part is archived for three months as a reference sample, to be used by green coffee buyers working hand-in-hand with Nespresso.

The sacks, stacked on pallets, now travel to the storage warehouse, a veritable maze devoted entirely to Nespresso. In one of the secure, 5,000m2 buildings, the neatly arranged sacks form colossal columns. Warehouse signage identifies the origins. Printed on the hessian, an ICO (International Coffee Organization) number ensures the coffee content’s traceability, connecting it to a country, an

AN INITIAL INSPECTION SORTS OUT ANY BEANS SHOWING THE SLIGHTEST DEFECT. exporter and, at the end of the supply chain, a grower. The green coffee stored in these warehouses is as cosseted as a newborn. The city of Antwerp, offering a relatively stable climate year ‘round, boasts perfect conditions for preserving the beans’ freshness and flavour.

Nevertheless, humidity and temperature deviations in the Molenbergnatie warehouse are measured daily and the structure’s architecture was designed specifically to mitigate the vagaries of the weather. At Seabridge, temperature and humidity are constantly monitored.

TASTER CHOREOGRAPHY

Downtown Antwerp, 11:30 a.m. The green coffee experts from Efico now take centre stage, as Nespresso's partner •••

88 The tasters inspect the green coffee’s sensory characteristics.

The green coffee brew is tasted using a traditional silver spoon.

Archiving the bags serving as reference samples.

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Headed to Switzerland Once the inspections are completed in Antwerp, Nespresso must still approve the taste tests in Switzerland. The green coffee is then stored in the Molenbergnatie and Seabridge warehouses or transpor ted by train to the Nespresso production centre.

company that buys green coffee for the Swiss firm. The specialists, each in a pristine apron, pass back and forth between the room reserved for archiving, where all the samples are kept, and the “cupping” room that is the tasting area. In the hushed atmosphere of this historic building, spicy aromas blend with the roasted notes of the beans.

Each sample taken at Molenbergnatie or Seabridge is roasted and ground in a very specific way, then brewed for a curious ritual that is repeated twice each day. The tasters “siphon” the fluid – a string of rhythmic sucking and breathing actions and mouth movements forming a well-rehearsed choreography. By the time they spit out the brew, they have carefully assessed its characteristics and nuances, which they record in careful detail.“Each sample must match the profile Nespresso is looking for, both in origin and variety,” says Bart Van Sanden, Belgium’s 2015 Cuptasting Champion and the world’s 2009 runner-up in the discipline.“Our teams perform exactly the same inspection before the beans are shipped out of the country of origin. Here, we’re making

EACH SAMPLE MUST MATCH THE SENSORY PROFILE NESPRESSO IS LOOKING FOR. sure that the ‘gourmet’ quality that Nespresso initially sourced hasn’t varied in the slightest.

This is part of the traceability system that Nespresso enforces on an industrial scale, but that is as precise as that of an artisanal coffeemaker,” says Michel Germanès, Efico’s Managing Director. Once the bean quality has been given the blessing of Nespresso in Switzerland, the sacks are stored in the warehouses or head for the brand’s production centres by rail, to minimise the coffee’s carbon footprint. Upon arrival, it undergoes yet another series of controls before moving on through the delicate steps of production: roasting, blending, grinding, encapsulation. The coffee’s journey from tree to cup is nearing its destination… n

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GRAND CRU

ON THE ROCKS A BARISTA-QUALITY ICED COFFEE AT HOME? IT’S ALL IN THE GRAND CRU AND THE EXACTING PREPARATION.HERE ARE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS.GET YOUR RECIPE GLASS READY!

By Nadia Hamam Photos Jean-Jacques Pallot Styling Éric André

NESPRESSO Touch

Ice cubes. A Grand Cru. Water or cold milk froth.

For true chills up your spine, here are the exclusive secrets to perfect iced coffee, Nespresso style.

Choose a Grand Cru. The Nespresso Experts have selected three Grands Crus from the permanent range that express themselves effusively in iced form. Their respective recipes were designed to bring out their aromatic profiles, deliciously revealed by a final touch of well-chosen ingredients. When paired with water, Ristretto creates a potent brew; Bukeela ka Ethiopia is for more exotic tastes. For a richer experience, Vanilio goes naturally with the cold milk froth.

Be precise. The iced coffee of your dreams requires exacting measurements: 90 g of ice cubes, a 40 ml Grand Cru extraction (or two Grands Crus extracted at 25 ml each for thrill seekers), 90 ml of water or cold milk froth (long live Aeroccino!).

Respect the proper order. Put the ice cubes in the glass, then extract your Grand Cru. Fill with water or cold milk froth and then add the final touch, that magic ingredient that will bring out the subtlety of your iced coffee.

A touch of ginger (Ristretto),a tinge of powdered coriander (Bukeela ka Ethiopia) or a dash of maple syrup (Vanilio).

Slowly sip until summer’s end. n

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NESPRESSO Lifestyle Get equipped!

An Envivo Lungo capsule and a Pure Collection Recipe glass are essential to making this Lungo con leche.

ENVIVO LUNGO INTENSITY ACE THE LATEST TO JOIN THE NESPRESSO GRAND CRU FAMILY IS ALSO THE MOST INTENSE OF THE LUNGOS. THE BLEND’S SENSUAL RICHNESS AND SELECT ORIGINS MAKE IT THE PERFECT KICK-OFF TO A BRIGHT, BRISK MORNING.

By Nadia Hamam Photos Grégoire Kalt Styling Sergio Da Silva

White pot (The Conran Shop), shirt (La Redoute), jeans (Labdip).

Milk friendly PRODIGIO&Milk, Pure Collection Recipe glass and spoon.

For a deliciously intense Lungo Latte Macchiato.

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A LUNGO WITH CHARACTER

Do you love long coffees, but long for a bracing wakeup in the morning? Then Envivo Lungo is the coffee for you.

The twenty-fourth Grand Cru in the Nespresso range – the latest addition to the Lungo family – has a personality forged of great intensity. Garbed in a burnt-orange capsule, its warm, dense aromatic profile is designed to awaken the senses. The secret lies in an Indian Arabica that is given a potent edge with a generous dose of fine Robusta from Mexico. This high Robusta content – a first in the history of Nespresso Lungos – develops intense flavours and brings denser coffee body. The result: a Grand Cru with a broad flavour palette and level 9 intensity. With conspicuous roasted notes and intimations of aromatic wood and gingerbread, Envivo Lungo is also a delightful surprise in milk recipes. The magic of the Robusta touch! n

Helmet (Ruby), jacket and sweatshirt (Samsoe & Samsoe).

PIXIE par tners The PIXIE cup that matches the new Grand Cru.

Notebook and pen (Merci), watch (Fleux), kitchen block (Les Petits Meubles de Marie).

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Small pleasures The calibrated combination of the PRODIGIO&Milk and Envivo Lungo for an impeccable Lungo Macchiato.

Compact chic Envivo Lungo capsules, the matching PIXIE cup and the PRODIGIO Machine tucked neatly away with other culinary indispensables.

Storage jars (The Conran Shop).

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Headphones (Urbanears), table (Noguchi), carpet (The Conran Shop).

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Morning vigour Before or after your morning run, with or without a snack: Envivo Lungo served in the Pure Collection cup.

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Bag (Tila March), silk scarf (Moismont). Bike (Yasujiro Bicycle Store).

Orange impulse Make sure you’re covered – keep a box of capsules in your bag.

Find the PRODIGIO range and the Pure Collection in the Machines & Collections sections.

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Hit the road!

Take an Envivo Lungo along for the ride in the sleek Travel Mug from the Touch Collection.

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BRAZIL LAND OF COFFEE

TO CELEBRATE 10 YEARS OF NESPRESSO IN BRAZIL,WE HAVE BREWED UP SOME STATISTICS ILLUSTRATING THE CLOSE TIES BETWEEN THE SWISS BRAND AND THE LAND WHERE COFFEE IS KING,AS WELL AS SOME FIGURES THAT SHED LIGHT ON BRAZILIAN COFFEE PRODUCTION AND DRINKING HABITS.

By Nadia Hamam and Kim Levy Illustrations Matthieu Carré

FELIZ ANIVERSÁRIO!

NESPRESSO: 10 YEARS IN BRAZIL

2016 IN FIGURES

NESPRESSO GRANDS CRUS CONTAINING BRAZILIAN COFFEE*

11 RISTRETTO Arabica.

CAPRICCIO Arabica.

2006: THE FIRST NESPRESSO BOUTIQUE OPENS IN SÃO PAOLO

ROMA Arabica.

KAZAAR Conillon Robusta.

Dulsão DO BRASIL VOLLUTO Arabica. Pure Arabica, (Bourbon red and yellow).

Boutiques 4 in São Paulo, 2 in Rio de Janeiro, 1 in Brasília, 1 in Ribeirão Preto, 1 in Campinas, 1 in Curitiba, 1 in Belo Horizonte.

500 employees.

VIVALTO LONGO Cerrado Arabica.

LINIZIO LUNGO Arabica (Bourbon).

ARPEGGIO DECAFFEINATO Arabica.

*Non-exhaustive list of Grand Crus containing Brazilian coffee.

1,700 trade partners.

NESPRESSO Data

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PRODUCTION TOP PRODUCER

COFFEE VARIETIES GROWN

PRODUCTION AREAS

70 % 30 % ARABICA

Brazil

ROBUSTA

80% of which primarily Conillon. is Mundo Novo and Catuai, and 20% is Bourbon, Catucai, Topazio, Tupi and Obatã.

BRASÍLIA

RIO DE JANEIRO

1st: Brazil, the world’s largest coffee producer with 43.2 million 60kg bags of green coffee in 2015.

SÃO PAULO

2nd: Vietnam (27.5 million).

3rd: Colombia (13.5 million).

ARABICA ROBUSTA

COFFEE DRINKING COFFEE LOVERS!

3 TYPICAL BRAZILIAN COFFEES

Sources: ICO -Nespresso Brazil -Nespresso.com

“CAFEZINHO” filtered coffee served in a mug, very hot.

5.9kg of coffee consumed per capita every year, or some 110 billion cups.

“DA MANHÔ COFFEE “morning coffee”, drunk at breakfast and served long with milk.

71 % of Brazilians drink their coffee black.

29 %

of Brazilians drink coffee with milk.

“CARIOCA” COFFEE a long black coffee.

102

PRODIGIO CYBER CAFÉ

NESPRESSO INTRODUCES ITS FIRST CONNECTED MACHINE! SCHEDULE OR START YOUR GRAND CRU EXTRACTION, MONITOR YOUR CAPSULE STOCK OR WATER LEVEL – PRODIGIO AND YOUR SMARTPHONE ARE EAGER TO GET CONNECTED THROUGH THE NESPRESSO APPLICATION.

By Nadia Hamam Photos Grégoire Kalt Styling Sergio Da Silva

Remote control The PRODIGIO inter face uses energy- efficient Bluetooth Smar t technology. It works equally well on iOS – iPhone and iPad – and Android.

The interface designed for the PRODIGIO Machine is available on the Nespresso application.

Jar and tea towel (The Conran Shop).

Inventory management Never run out of capsules again!

PRODIGIO keeps track of your stock and lets you know when it falls below the alert threshold.

Then what do you do? Just order more from your smartphone!

NESPRESSO Innovation Digital barista Slip in your favourite Grand Cru, put a cup underneath and select the type and time of extraction for your next coffee with the touch of a button on your smartphone.

Easy living Manage your water level in real time, test for water hardness, receive aler ts for descaling and other maintenance.

Custom notifications on your smar tphone help you keep your machine in tip -top shape.

Smart design PRODIGIO’s slender, compact design and curved corners echo the shape of your smar tphone. Connected chic!

103

104

MACHINES

& COLLECTIONS

PRODIGIO (Silver)

PRODIGIO&milk (Silver)

PRODIGIO (Titan)

PRODIGIO&milk (Titan)

FIND AND ORDER ALL MACHINES AND COLLECTIONS ON OUR WEBSITE: WWW.NESPRESSO.COM

Actual products may differ from photos. Nespresso reserves the right to modify its products without notice.

NESPRESSO HAS A NEW COFFEE PRODIGY,THE CONNECTED MACHINE PRODIGIO! NO MORE RUNNING OUT OF CAPSULES, MANAGE EXTRACTION OF YOUR GRANDS CRUS BY REMOTE CONTROL…ALL FROM YOUR SMARTPHONE! PRODIGIO &milk IS A DELIGHT FOR MILK-RECIPE FANS, ALONG WITH AEROCCINO AND THE NEW ARTICLES IN THE PURE COLLECTION.

NESPRESSO Selection

105

NEW PRODUCTS PURE INDULGENCE

THE PURE COLLECTION HAS A NEW RECIPE GLASS AND SPOON THAT PLEASE BOTH THE EYE AND THE PALATE. Set of 4 Recipe glasses (approx. 300 ml) and spoons.

Ref. 3665/4

FROTH FRIEND AEROCCINO4,THE LATEST ADDITION TO THE LINE, HAS A NEW BUTTON TO SELECT A SECOND HOT-MILK FROTH TEXTURE. IT ALSO HAS A UNIQUE WHISK TO MAKE EVERY RECIPE PERFECT.

THE PURE COLLECTION IS ALSO… …A PORCELAIN LINE WITH CONTEMPORARY STYLING AND FOUR CUP SIZES TO LET YOU SAVOUR EVERY COFFEE MOMENT.

PURE LUNGO

PURE ESPRESSO

Set of 2 porcelain Espresso cups and saucers (approx. 80 ml).

Ref. 3656/2

Set of 2 porcelain Lungo cups and saucers (approx. 180 ml).

Ref. 3657/2

PURE CAPPUCCINO

Set of 2 porcelain Cappuccino cups and saucers (approx. 180 ml).

Ref. 3658/2 Some of the above products may not be available in your country.

PURE MUG

Set of 2 porcelain mugs and saucers (approx. 300 ml).

Ref. 3659/2

106

COFFEE MARK Zanini de Zanine

BRAZILIAN SALAD & ROMA

CUSCUZ & COSI

PÃO DE QUEIJO & LINIZIO LUNGO

PASTEL DE CARNE & KAZAAR

PÃO DE QUEIJO & LINIZIO LUNGO

BRAZILIAN SALAD & ROMA

SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes COOKING TIME: 25 minutes INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Linizio Lungo (6 x 110 ml).

SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOLING TIME: 2 hours INGREDIENTS: 4 avocados - 2 limes - 1 pineapple - 1 mango

30 cl of milk - 15 cl neutral oil - 500 g tapioca starch - 1 tsp. salt - 2 eggs - 250 g grated parmesan or Comté cheese - butter.

- 4 small bananas - ¼ of one “bird pepper”, very finely chopped (or ½ tsp. Espelette pepper) - 1 bunch coriander.

Vinaigrette: 6 tbsp. olive oil - 3 tbsp. passion fruit vinegar - 1 capsule of Roma (40 ml) - salt - fresh-ground pepper.

Set the oven to 180° C gas mark 4) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. n Bring the milk, oil and salt to a boil, add the tapioca starch in one motion while stirring, then remove from heat and continue stirring. n Break the eggs onto the dough, mix well, add 200g of the grated cheese and mix again. n Lightly butter your hands and form dough balls the size of ping-pong balls.

Thoroughly mix all the vinaigrette ingredients. n Cut the avocados in half, remove the seeds, cut the flesh into cubes into a bowl, zest the lime on top and pour the lime juice onto the avocados. n Add the finely diced pineapple, mango and bananas, chopped coriander, hot pepper and vinaigrette. Mix, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.

n Place

them on the baking sheet, sprinkle with the remaining grated cheese and bake about 25 minutes. n Serve with a Linizio Lungo.

A PERFECT MATCH: The malted

grain notes of the Linizio Lungo create delicious harmony with this small, moist cheese bread.

A PERFECT MATCH: There is

a subtle balance between the spicy, tangy dish and the toasted notes of the Roma in the dressing. It creates an exquisite woody effect on the palate.

Pure Collection Lungo cup (Nespresso). Plate (Sentou). Spoon (Alessi).

Glasses and saucier (Fleux). Cutlery (Sabre).

Production Marie Leteuré Photo Jérôme Bilic

Production Marie Leteuré Photo Jérôme Bilic

PASTEL DE CARNE & KAZAAR SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 1 hour 20 minutes INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Kazaar (6 x 40 ml) - 6 x 1 tbsp. warm

milk (6 x 10 ml).

60 g ground beef - 2 onions - 2 cloves garlic - 2 crushed tomatoes - 2 tbsp. tomato paste - 1 bunch coriander - salt - pepper - ½ tsp. quatre épices spice blend - 1 tsp. paprika - ½ tsp. chili pepper - 1 tsp. cane sugar - 20 cl water - olive oil - 3 ready-to-use puff pastries - 1 egg - 4 tbsp. milk.

Brown the meat, chopped onion and chopped garlic in a drizzle of olive oil, add salt, pepper, quatre épices, paprika, chili pepper and sugar. As soon as the mixture begins to brown, add crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, chopped coriander and water. n Stir well, cover and simmer 1 hour. n Set the oven to 200° C (gas mark 6). n Unroll the puff pastry, cut out rectangles (approx. 10 x 5 cm), top half of the rectangles with the meat mixture, moisten the edges with water, cover each with another rectangle, pressing the edges to stick them together in a pouch.

n Brush

the rectangles with the beaten egg mixed with milk and bake the pastels for about 20 minutes, until golden brown.

n Enjoy with a Kazaar Espresso

(40 ml) prepared with 1 tbsp. of hot milk (10 ml).

A PERFECT MATCH: The addition

of milk softens the intensity of the Kazaar, harmonising its final note of dried fruit with this savoury flaky pastry treat.

CUSCUZ & COSI SERVES SIX - PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 20 minutes REFRIGERATION TIME: 2 hours INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Cosi (6 x 40 ml).

1 tbsp. olive oil - 6 tbsp. cornmeal (120 g) - 1 tbsp. tapioca starch - 1 cubed onion - 2 cloves garlic - 1 small cubed red pepper - 2 crushed tomatoes - 100 g cooked green peas - 100 g drained canned/jarred corn - 150 g small shrimp - 70 g green olives - flat-leaved parsley - 25 cl reconstituted chicken bouillon (cubes) - 2 hard-boiled eggs - salt - pepper.

Sauté the chopped onion and garlic in olive oil, add the red pepper, then the peas, corn, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, bouillon, tapioca starch and cornmeal, stirring continuously until all liquid is absorbed. n Let cool, then add the crushed tomatoes, finely diced olives and shrimp. n Shell the eggs, slice into rounds, lay the rounds flat in 6 glasses and fill with the mixture. n Refrigerate for 2 hours. n Serve in the glasses or turned out onto a dish. n Enjoy

A PERFECT MATCH: The Cosi

Espresso discreetly complements the fresh, pungent flavours of the semolina cake and brings out its citrus notes.

with a Cosi Espresso.

Pure Collection Espresso cups (Nespresso). Plate (Sentou). Spoons (The Conran Shop).

View Collection Espresso cups (Nespresso). Plate and cutlery (Fleux).

Production Marie Leteuré Photo Jérôme Bilic

Production Marie Leteuré Photo Jérôme Bilic

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ADDRESSES

FIND ALL THE RIO DE JANEIRO ADDRESSES REFERRED TO IN THIS ISSUE.

1 INSTITUTO MOREIRA SALLES

Rua Marquês de São Vicente, 476, Gávea, 22451-040 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 3284-7400 www.ims.com.br 2 .ORG BISTRÔ

Avenida Olegário Maciel, 175, Loja G, Barra da Tijuca, 22621-200 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2493 1791 www.orgbistro.com.br 3 FERRO E FARINHA

Rua Andrade Pertence, 42, Catete, 22220-010 Rio de Janeiro facebook.com/FerroEFarinha 4 KULT KOLECTOR

Avenida Olegário Maciel, 130, Loja E, Barra da Tijuca, 22621-200 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 3624-0032 www.kolector.com.br 5 PRAIA DA RESERVA

Avenida Lúcio Costa, 35, Barra da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro 6 PALAPHITA KITCH Avenida Epitácio Pessoa, s/n, Lagoa, 22471-003 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2227-0837 www.palaphitakitch.com.br 7 TALHO CAPIXABA Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva, 1022, Loja A e B, Leblon, 22440-032 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2512-8760 www.talhocapixaba.com.br 8 PEDRA DE ARPOADOR

Avenida Francisco Bering, 181, Ipanema, 22080-050 Rio de Janeiro

Rua Rodolfo Dantas, 16, Copacabana, 22020-040 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2541-5898 www.churrascariapalace.com.br

sg JARDIM BOTÂNICO

Rua Jardim Botânico, 1008, Jardim Botânico, 22470-180 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 3874-1808 www.jbrj.gov.br

dd OLYMPE

qf CRISTO REDENTOR

sh PARQUE LAGE Rua Jardim Botânico, 414, Jardim Botânico, 22461-000 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 3257-1800 www.eavparquelage.rj.gov.br

df JOBI

qg MUSEU DO AMANHÃ Praça Mauá 1, Centro, 20081-240 Rio de Janeiro www.museudoamanha.org.br

sj ESPÍRITO SANTA Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 264, Santa Teresa, 20241-260 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2507-4840 www.espiritosanta.com.br

qd CHURRASCARIA PALACE

Parque Nacional da Tijuca, Alto da Boa Vista, 22241-125 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2558 1329 www.cristoredentoroficial.com.br

qh ESCOLA DO PÃO Rua General Garzon, 10, Lagoa, 22470-010 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 3205-7275 www.escoladopao.com.br qj PEDRA BONITA

Parque Nacional da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro www.parquedatijuca.com.br

qk PRAIA DA PRAINHA

Avenida Estado da Guanabara 1102, Recreio dos Bandeirantes, Rio de Janeiro ql PRAIA DA MACUMBA

Avenida AW 1, Recreio dos Bandeirantes, Rio de Janeiro

sp COMPANHIA ATHLETICA GYM

New York City Center, Avenida das Américas, 5000, Lojas 112 e 113, Barra da Tijuca, 22640-102 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 3505-0000 www.ciaathletica.com.br

Avenida Pasteur, 520, Urca, 22290-240 Rio de Janeiro

sq SEU BAR Avenida Olegário Maciel, 175, Loja B, Barra da Tijuca, 22621-200 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 3495-7761 facebook.com/seubar

qp PRAÇA XV

ss LAGOA RODRIGO DE FREITAS

9 BAIRRO DE URCA

Praça Quinze de Novembro, s/n, Centro, 20010-000 Rio de Janeiro

Avenida Borges de Medeiros, 2116-2202, Lagoa, 22470-002 Rio de Janeiro

qq MARACANÃ

Avenida Pres. Castelo Branco, s/n, Maracanã, 20271-130 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 800 062 7222 www.maracana.com

Rua Barão da Torre, 358, Ipanema, 22411-000 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2123-7900

qs CONFEITARIA COLOMBO

sf GRUTA DE SANTO ANTÔNIO

Rua Gonçalves Dias, 32, Centro, 20050-030 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2505-1500 www.confeitariacolombo.com.br

sk ABBEY OF DESIGN (AOD) Rua Saint Roman, 301, Copacabana, 22071-060 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2247-4547 www.rioabbeyofdesign.com sl BRASEIRO DA GÁVEA

Praça Santos Dumont, 116, Gávea, 22470-060 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2239-7494 www.braseirodagavea.com.br dp IRAJÁ GASTRÔ

Rua Conde de Irajá, 109, Botafogo, 22271-020 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2246-1395 www.irajagastro.com.br dq ROBERTA SUDBRACK Avenida Lineu de Paula Machado, 916, Jardim Botânico, 22470-040 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 3874-0139 www.robertasudbrack.com.br ds FASANO AL MARE

Avenida Vieira Souto, 80, Ipanema, 2240-002 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 3202 4000 www.fasano.com.br/gastronomia/ restaurante/22

Rua Custódio Serrão, 62, Lagoa, 22470-230 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2539-4542 www.olympe.com.br

Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva, 1166, Loja B, Leblon, 22440-035 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2274-0547 facebook.com/barjobi dg BAR DO MOMO

Rua General Espírito Santo Cardoso, 50, Loja A, Tijuca, 20530-500 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2570-9389 facebook.com/bardomomotijuca dh GEPETTO

Estrada dos Bandeirantes, 23417, Vargem Grande, 22785-091 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2428-1100 www.restaurantegepetto.com.br dj DA ROBERTA

Rua Tubira, 8, Loja A, Leblon, 22441-070 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2239-1103 facebook.com/garagemdaroberta/ timeline dk PARQUE NACIONAL

DA TIJUCA Estrada da Cascatinha, 850, Alto da Boa Vista, 20531-590 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2492-2252 www.icmbio.gov.br/portal dl FAVELA VALE ENCANTADO

Alto da Boa Vista, 20531-340 Rio de Janeiro ' +55 21 2493-3920 www.valeencantado.org.br/site

NESPRESSO BOUTIQUES & CLUB

FIND THE TWO BOUTIQUES IN RIO DE JANEIRO ON THE MAP. NESPRESSO CLUB BRAZIL: TOLL-FREE NUMBER 0800 7777 737

sd CAVIST VINOTECA & RESTÔ

Rua Silva Jardim, 148, Centro, 24030-005 Niterói, RJ ' +55 21 2621-5701 www.grutadesantoantonio.com.br

1 Boutique Ipanema, Rua Garcia D’Avila, 117, 22421-010 Rio de Janeiro 2 Boutique BarraShopping, Avenida das Américas, 4666, Piso Lagoa, 22790-972 Rio de Janeiro LOCATE ALL THE BOUTIQUE ADDRESSES AROUND THE WORLD USING THE NESPRESSO MOBILE APP FOR SMARTPHONES AND TABLETS.

TH E E TE RNAL MOVE ME NT Ulysse Nardin, from the movement of the sea to the perpetual innovation of Haute Horlogerie. For over 170 years, the powerful movement of the ocean has inspired Ulysse Nardin in its singular quest: to push back the limits of mechanical watchmaking, time and time again.

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