L'Officiel Hommes Malaysia Fall/Winter 20-21 by L'Officiel Inc.

NÂ° 02 Autumn/Winter 2020/21

THE REBOOT ISSUE SILAS AND XDIQ

N° 02 Autumn/Winter 2020/21

Edito

Contributors

Spinning Around

Golden Letters

The Return Of Jackie

The Crossover

Icon Being Symbolic

Role: Versatile

The Unstoppable 30 Treasure Trove

Sky High

Time Of Desire

ON COVER PHOTOGRAPHY CHUAN LOOI/ YIPIEYAYA STYLING MONICA MONG GROOMING CHU FAN STYLING ASSISTANTS AMELIA TAN & SYAZIL ABD RAHIM MODELS SILAS & XDIQ / TOPBOI CITIZEN LOCATION THE CHOW KIT – AN ORMOND HOTEL ALL OUTFITS AND ACCESSORIES COACH AUTUMN/ WINTER 2020 COLLECTION

Life â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Celebrated

Turn Back Time

Downtown Cool

Autumn/Winter 2020 Trend Report 58 Are You Happy?

When The Sun Comes Out

New Kid On The Block

On A High Note

100

Beat, The Generation

112

Autumn Flex

118

Cool Self-Care Resolutions

124

Face Forces

128

Fix Zit

132

Catch You On The Sunny Side 134 The New Wonder 140 The Future Is Here 142 Art Speaks

144

N° 02 Autumn/Winter 2020/21

EDITORIAL

SALES & MARKETING

GROUP EDITOR JOHN NG

VICE PRESIDENT AILEEN SOH

SENIOR WRITER NAWAF RAHMAN

SENIOR SALES & MARKETING DIRECTORS CHRISTINA LOH ASHLEY LOH

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR CHONG MENG CHEE GRAPHIC DESIGNER AZRAEI RAHIM EDITORIAL ASSISTANT SYAZIL ABD RAHIM DIGITAL DIGITAL DIRECTOR CALVIN CHONG DIGITAL WRITER NAWAF RAHMAN

SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR HELEN TANG FINANCE CHIEF FINANCE OFFICER ELLIN ZHAO MANAGEMENT CEO/PUBLISHER OLIVIER BURLOT EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS GAËL BURLOT JULIAN PEH MOHD KHALID BIN IBRAHIM

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All rights reserved. The edition in Malaysia of “L’Officiel Hommes de la Couture et la Mode de Paris” is published under an exclusive license granted by Les Editions Jalou. All texts reproduced from the French edition of “L’Officiel Hommes de la Couture et la Mode de Paris” and included in the Malaysia edition have been translated under the exclusive liability of the company Heart Media Group. “L’Officiel Hommes de la Couture et la Mode de Paris” is a registered trademark of Les Editions Jalou. The rights for reproduction, including reproduction on electronic media, of editorial and publication material appearing in the present edition and initially published in the French edition of “L’Officiel Hommes de la Couture et la Mode de Paris” are exclusively owned by Les Editions Jalou. Total or partial reproduction, on any media, in any language, without prior written consent of Les Editions Jalou is strictly forbidden. Les Editions Jalou are a limited liability company, with a share capital of 606,000 Euro, organized and existing under the laws of France, whose registered office is located at 5, rue Bachaumont, 75002 Paris, registered at the trade registry of Paris, under number 331 532 176 and represented by Marie-José Jalou acting as manager. L’Officiel Hommes Malaysia is published 2 issues a year. Printed by BHS Book Printing Sdn Bhd Lot 4 Lorong CJ 1/1B, Kawasan Perindustrian Cheras Jaya, 43200 Cheras, Selangor, Malaysia Published by HEART MEDIA SDN BHD C10 2nd Floor, Mail Box 334, Fahrenheit 88, 179 Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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N° 02 Autumn/Winter 2020/21

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ÉDITO

If you started following us when we launched our first issue earlier this year, you might remember us claiming that we were inclined toward creating as opposed to waiting for opportunities. Well, guess what! Nothing has changed. “Does print matter right now?” It’s a question that comes up more often than not ever since I start meeting up with clients, readers and contributors again. While some of them assume that the pandemic has turned print efforts otiose, others with a wider point of view wonder whether print and digital are mutually exclusive – or not. “My answer is not going send out shock waves but it’s important that we understand the fundamentals,” I say. “The team and I feel that the way we consume information on both mediums keeps changing and therefore it only makes sense for them to complement each other in order to cover all the bases.” The moment of revelation is usually punctuated by enthusiastic nodding or a small gasp. The next question is, “What do you mean when you say ‘complement’?” and the boldest of them will ask if there’s a real difference between the two anyway. To the first question I explain that print content has the edge in terms of credibility, trustworthiness and engaging the right target audience, and digital content offers instantaneity and accessibility, as I imagine about how unbelievably remarkable it is when they operate in synergy. I then go on to explain that the distinction can typically be found in the presentation. Themed “Reboot”, for this issue – fronted by two top Malaysian models decked out in head-to-toe Coach – the team was tasked to deliberate big ideas that would spark stimulating discussions about what’s next on the fashion and lifestyle landscape. (Confession: I got sidetracked on numerous occasions staring at pictures from Autumn/Winter 2020/21 shows, thinking if we would ever return to life as we knew it.) Fashion and grooming trend report (p58 and p124, respectively), interviews with six next generation fashion and accessories designers (p30) and headline-making timepieces (p42), as well as L’Officiel Hommes compilations of the most intriguing concept cars (p142) and international resorts (134) are just some riveting reads you will discover within the pages. Stay inspired. John Ng Group Editor

CONTRIBUTORS LINUS MORALES Photographer Born in the 80s in the south of Sweden, Morales has a unique style of fashion photography and ar t combined. With an eye for graphic and clean lines and wants to create something unique in every image, his strength is in capturing models in a cinematic way. After working as a photography assistant in London and New York for several years he moved back to Sweden to continue building his career. Today Morales is based in Paris and work with clients like Prada and Kenzo. 1

CLAVERIE BENOIT Makeup Artist After spending five years as a beauty advisor at Guerlain at Toulouse Airport, Benoit went on to Paris to pursue his makeup career. To improve his skills, he attended the Make Up Forever Academy and found new ways in expressing himself. Since then, his works can be found in esteemed m a g a z i n e s s u c h a s L’ O f f i c i e l, Cosmopolitan, Elle, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar – and seen at various events like Le Salon du Chocolat and Le salon international de la Lingerie. Benoit strongly believes that makeup is one of the most impactful ways for a person to portray him and herself. HANIBALL SALIBA Stylist Born and based in Berlin, Saliba’s love for fashion started at a young age when he spent his free time flipping through fashion magazines and, mixing and matching clothes. After completing a degree in product design, Saliba set his sights on a career as a fashion stylist. With a keen eye for details and a fresh approach to styling, Haniball’s works have graced the pages of numerous international magazines such as GQ Style, Kinfolk, Vogue, Esquire and Men’s Folio.

CHUAN LOOI Photographer The photography world caught Chuan Looi’s at tention when a childhood friend gave him a vintage camera. Born in Malaysia, he moved to work overseas at actress Charlie Yeung’s image consultancy before becoming an assistant to legendary photographer Wing Shya in Hong Kong. To date, he has photographed many celebrities including Elle Macpherson, Ai Tominaga, Edison Chen and more. His photographs can be found in distinguished local fashion labels and magazine titles such as L’Officiel Malaysia, CittaBella Malaysia and more.

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Spinning Around

Hermès’s Objets Autumn/Winter 2020 collection is a nod to classicism with modern-day twists and twirls. BY SYAZIL ABD RAHIM

a removable strap and a coloured lace that form a perfect blend of trekking spirit and Hermès bootmaker style. The same treatment is given to the ankle boots that are presented in several mellow tones with a bold rubber contrasting line around the sole edges while sneakers are designed to amp up the smart casual wardrobe. It is safe to claim that Hermès silk scarves have long been a favourite accessory of both the ladies and gents. This autumn/ winter collection sees the double-face scarf with diverse technical prints on both sides – a vintage car on one side and a Formula One race car on the other – intricately designed by the French luxury fashion house’s favourite artist Dimitri Rybaltchenko. Hermès also commissioned other talents like digital artist Miguel Cevalier and Warsaw-based illustrator Jan Bajtlik to show off their immersive digital works on the scarves. Last but not least, perfectly in line with the high-fashion glove trend, is the elegant Hermès version of heavy silk neck ties, with automotive motifs embroidery at the back, a nod and a wink to the silk scarf collection.

One can be carried away by the shoe offerings without even knowing it. The classic combat boots are expressed in a contemporary silhouette, boasting a thick lug sole with 14

Photos Hermès

It goes without saying that Véronique Nichanian has for years been channelling her creativity into the Hermès menswear as well as accessories collections – and her powerful savoir faire continues to influence this season’s Objets Autumn/Winter 2020 range. The Far West-inspired Birkin luggage aside, there are arrays of interesting pieces that jumble between utility and sportwear codes without going afar from Hermès’s masterful regal in classicism. For instance, the notable Sac à Malice which has undergone a number of reiterations since it was first created in 1988 is treated in Monsieur calfskin, giving the bag a more sophisticated curvy line at the base with multi-coloured leather patches of a rocket and planets in the solar system. Making their debut on the runway were the Tote Bag 50 and Hermès Second Side where both received a full expression of the sensuality of the material without compromising style and practicality.

Golden Letters

Louis Vuitton presents a sophisticated unisex LV Volt. BY SYAZIL ABD RAHIM

Francesca Amfitheatrof is no stranger to fine jewellery. When she was appointed as the artistic director for the watch and jewellery division at Louis Vuitton, she brought together with her an eye for elegant designs she developed over the years. Her debut collection for Louis Vuitton called LV Volt was a work of art and architecture, with an elaborate attention to details and craftmanship, featuring the iconic Maisonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s initial in myriad genderless shapes, volumes and dimensions.

rings and bangles. Each piece underlines rigorous precisions in design with clean silhouettes and soft, smooth contours. The collection is designed to be stacked, mixed and matched, to emerge as unique prismatic figures with tubular structure that coils and hang fashionably around the fingers, neck, wrists and on the earlobes. In celebrating this versatile collection, Louis Vuitton has tapped four visionary talents in fashion, art and film industry to front its latest print and digital advertising campaign. The ensemble includes Oscar-winning actress Alicia Vikander, French ballet dancer Hugo Marchand, multi-talented painter, activist and model-artist Sharon Alexie and Chinese model XiaoXing Mao. Judging from the leitmotif graphical force of the range, LV Volt proves to be proves to be a compelling compelling Louis Vuitton offering with an unmistakable fashion appeal.

The key feature of the LV Volt collection is the dramatisation of the motifs. Volt Curb sees the initial comes together on prepossessing 18-carat chain links while Volt Mesh is a work of the Monogram tessellations consisted of latticework bib necklaces, drop earrings and cuff bracelets. Volt Multi, on the other hand, breaks up the logo to imprint individual letters in repetition along the surface of metallic white and yellow gold 15

The Return Of Jackie

Known for its era-defining designs and signature details, Gucci’s extensive bag archives are packed to the brim with inspiring authenticity. And the Jackie 1961 collection is one recent example.

You can always judge how successful a bag is going to be by whether it instantly turns into the most coveted musthave that survives beyond a single season. In Gucci’s whimsical, retro and inclusive universe, there are numerous collections of them that are masterfully crafted for both men and women. The latest is the Jackie 1961 – a hobo bag introduced in 1961 that became very popular in the 60s and 70s – which creative director Alessandro Michele unveiled at the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2020 women’s and men’s fashion shows.

The chevron quilting made in Italy (where else?) is an extraordinary piece of work. Naturally, the bag melds functionality and beauty with a wide variety of shade and material options. As Gucci is famed for its daring colour schemes, it comes as no surprise that an assortment of different hues can be found in the GG Marmont 2.0 collection. We like the look of contrasting a subdued bag with a bold statement-making ensemble and vice versa – as much as putting together a monochromatic look. Adorable details such as the embroidered hearts on the back add to the style and sophistication of the bag. And how could anyone talk about the GG Marmont collection without bringing up the Gucci Ghost Bag, masterminded in collaboration with Canadian snowboarder Trouble Andrew?

Prior to that, Gucci rereleased the unisex GG Marmont belt bag. Part of the Gucci Pre-Fall 2017 collection, Michele pulled inspiration for the bag from an archival buckle design from the fashion powerhouse. Adopting the softly structured shape, clean lines and sumptuous quilting that of its predecessors, the bag features the reinterpreted double GG emblem of Gucci’s 80s heyday – and fitted with a leather belt which allows it to ride high on the waist. The design versatility makes it the perfect companion to a preppy gentleman’s wardrobe as it does to a quirky lady’s blouse and skirt ensemble.

Then, there is the Gucci Print leather belt bag. A 90s streetwear staple, without a doubt, belt bags have come a long way from being stylishly accessory strapped around the waist to slowly but surely creeping up north the body. With rappers (possibly the most significant driving forces for the style) being instrumental in cementing its status in the mainstream, the non-binary gender identity of belt bags has become more 16

PHOTOGRAPHY ANTON GOTTLOB

BY JOHN NG

and more apparent. Inspired by retro prints of the 80s, the Gucci logo is emphasised. The vintage-style pattern is shown on the front of the belt bag made of supple, textured leather. It comes with an adjustable nylon Web strap – with plastic buckle closure and a zipper closure – which is fashionably appropriate to be worn as a belt on the waist as it is a crossbody bag.

name of the bag from “Fifties Constance” to “Jackie” when the fashionable former First Lady of the United States, Jacqueline Kennedy was often photographed carrying one. A pivotal member of the Gucci bag family, the Jackie has been reinterpreted a couple of times over the years, with the most impactful comeback made by Tom Ford in 1999, and most recently, Michele at Gucci’s Autumn/Winter 2020 shows. Blending the past and the future into one distinct non-binary vision, the relaxed and relatively unstructured bag, which come in three sizes – medium, small and mini – in black and red leather as well as GG Supreme canvas with Web stripe. Additionally, the small and mini are available in assorted leather colours including neutral-coloured python as well as pastel hues like lilac, buttercream, light blue and pale pink. A detachable shoulder strap magnifies the new Jackie’s flexible personality, and at the same time, the signature piston strap closure positioned right at the centre enhances it with a sense of excitement. This newest evolution of the Jackie in its most original form, which at the same time, exudes a completely innovative character is evident that the Jackie 1961 bag style is here to stay.

At the Gucci Resort 2020 show in 2019, Michele debuted the Gucci 1955 Horsebit bag, a style recreated from an archival design from more than six decades ago. It’s impossible to miss the distinctive metal detail of the Horsebit that take reference from the equestrian world, marking the first time Michele used it since taking the creative helm of Gucci in 2015. The collection is consisted of a shoulder bag, messenger bag and bucket bag – offered in various fabrications, from leather and exotic skin to monogrammed canvas. This year, Gucci is presenting one of the Maison’s most celebrated styles – the Jackie 1961. A resurgence of yet another iconic archive collection – this time, from the 60s – that signifies an era of the carefree spirit as it was designed as a genderless bag right from the very onset. Did you know? Gucci changed the 17

The Crossover Kim Jones revitalises the Dior Saddle bag with contemporary touches making it a fashion musthave accessory â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for men. BY JOHN NG

Photos Dior

The year was 1999 when the Dior Saddle bag debuted on the runway with the Maison’s Spring/Summer 2000 collection. Taking reference from the world of equestrianism, the “ugly-chic” kidney-shaped, short-strapped bag adorned with a dangling Dior charm was quick to have savvy style influencers as well as A-list celebrities giving their stamp of approval. Just when fans seemed to have lost interest, the emblematic piece with its unmistakable silhouette sent one after another shock waves so intense it ripped through the fashion landscape with persistent tremors that show no signs of calming down – and thus cementing its status as a true staple accessory.

metal with gold-tone elements. Crafted in collaboration with Hajime Sorayama – a Japanese illustrator famous for his sensual portrayal of feminine bots – the Saddle bag took cues from the artist’s space-age creation just like the sculpture he made for the show’s décor. Functional and faithful to structure of the Saddle bag, cross-body style bears the Dior logo as imagined by the contemporary artist with details like nuts and bolts, as well as a classic interior from the Maison’s leather ateliers. The rollercoaster buckle, commissioned by Kim Jones and designed by creative director of 1017 ALYX 9SM Matthew Williams, reinforces Dior’s innate connection between craftsmanship and innovation.

Since taking the creative helm of Dior Men in 2018, Kim Jones has doggedly paid tribute to the fashion brand’s tradition while stimulating it with a more pragmatic approach on the business front. Interweaving characteristics of womenswear into his Spring/Summer 2019 Menswear collection, Jones reinterpreted the Saddle bag into men’s offerings such as soft leather side bags, pouches and backpacks. Why the Saddle bag? There’s no denying that Jones is cognisant of the fact that he needs to find the middle ground of the dichotomy in maintaining brand vision and generating commercial hits – and the men purse, alongside sneakers, is indispensable.

Another rendition of the Saddle bag was presented during the Autumn 2020 show. Inspired by the flamboyancy of vintage American cars from the ’60s, it features a highly innovative technique – and again, on the metal and is boasted with an interior entirely lined with soft leather. Once the bag’s base has been created, the artisan painstakingly paints on superfine layers of aluminium, one by one, to create a relief effect. Punctuated by the colour red, the laser-engraved plexiglass detail showing the Dior Oblique motif, while the strap adorned with the “Christian Dior” signature with a buckle featuring the initials “CD” adds a final touch to the bag.

One example is during the Dior Pre-Fall 2019 Men’s show when Jones took the Saddle bag design a step further and presented a collectible version in the form of chrome

When it comes to cult accessory, it’s safe to say that Jones takes the Dior Saddle bag very seriously. 19

Icon Being Symbolic

Decades since the unveiling of Le Smoking, Saint Laurent perpetuates the imposing presence of the revolutionary tuxedo suit which irrevocably transformed the fashion landscape. BY JOHN NG PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF SAINT LAURENT

It was meant to make an impervious stamp in the history of the luxury fashion industry. It still is.

If Vaccarello is renowned for merely one trait, it is most certainly his ability to imbue his sexually high-octane Saint Laurent collections while respecting Saint Laurent’s signatures – as it is the case with his men’s offerings. At his first menswear show in New York in 2016, Vaccarello displayed a spectacular turn of events where women’s clothes were tailored to fit men. Fun fact: it took him two years to feel confident enough showed his first full men’s collection at Saint Laurent.

When Yves Saint Laurent introduced Le Smoking which featured a black tailored tuxedo blazer worn with a white ruffled shirt and trousers as a part of women’s eveningwear back in the mid-1960s, the divisions of opinion among fashion critics were palpable and understandably so given that it was controversial for women to even be spotted wearing trousers in public during that time.

Vaccarello brought Yves Saint Laurent’s wardrobe back to life with unforgettable pieces such as slim-fit suits, highwaist trousers and loose tucked-in shirts shrewdly paired with skinny jeans to emphasise the contemporary yet nostalgic vibe. Predominantly black, leather and heavily sequined jackets, as well as a combination of sheer shirts with lightweight scarves bestowing a touch of rock ’n’ roll sophistication. Accompanied by footwear ranging from boots to Cuban heels to scuffed white sneakers, the looks denoted the versatility of Vaccarello’s creations, with the collection as whole nodding to the past with a look to the future, suggesting that the creative director is game for progression.

The attitude toward the “androgynous” tuxedo only started shifting later on after style influencers such as Catherine Deneuve, Lauren Bacall and Bianca Jagger adopted the look, not forgetting the series of photographs by Helmut Newton that ran in French Vogue. It radiated a power surge that carries on to be timeless until today. “I wanted women to have the same basic wardrobe as a man. Blazer, trousers and suit – they’re so functional. I believed women wanted this and was right,” said Yves Saint Laurent in an interview. Le Smoking continued to be a key component of the designer’s collections until his retirement in 2002. Since Anthony Vaccarello started taking charge of the creative team, he has constantly putting his own spin on Le Smoking in various less traditional but equally confident reinterpretations. “I really wanted to pay an homage to Le Smoking and the tuxedo. To say: this is the house of the tuxedo, if you need a tuxedo you have to come to Saint Laurent because otherwise it’s like a fake tuxedo,” said Vaccarello after his Spring/Summer 2020 presentation.

Whatever materials and whatever form the Le Smoking has evolved into throughout the years, it remains identifiably Saint Laurent, in the same vein as the brand’s most classic and coveted jackets boast their smooth satin surface, silk lapels and, immaculate shoulder design and sharp cut. Looking for an iconic yet modern suit to add to your wardrobe? 21

Role: Versatile

More than just pretty faces, top Malaysian models Silas and Xdiq fill in the blanks to let you know them a little better. The question is: are you ready? PHOTOGRAPHY CHUAN LOOI/YIPIEYAYA STUDIO STYLING MONICA MONG ALL CLOTHING, BAGS AND ACCESSORIES COACH AUTUMN/WINTER 2020 COLLECTION

SILAS My biggest inspirations are… the people around me. I feel most empowered when... I’m with people I love and trust the most. My dream dinner guests are… Jordan Peterson, Rick Owens and Carl Jung. The best piece of life advice I’ve gotten is… that it’s okay to move at your own pace, no matter how much life seems to make you think otherwise. My most treasured possessions… are letters and postcards from my friends, and my vintage Kenner dinosaur toys. My skincare routine… consists of just a cleanser and a moisturiser. My everyday hairstyle… requires me to keep shaving my head. My island product pick is... a Flex Tape. My favourite item in my wardrobe is... my A nn Demeulemeester A/W16 Vitello runway boots. My biggest indulgence is... getting lost in exploring about whatever it is I’m obsessed with at any given time, even if it’s unnecessary or gratuitous. I like to travel… by train. My favourite place on earth is... my room. My favourite meal of the day is... a good ol’ plate of Kolo Mee. Sneakers or leather shoes? Leather shoes. I can’t live without… my glasses. You can usually find in my bag… a sketchbook and pens and pencils. The fashion trend I just don’t get is… skinny jeans with tennis shoes. Nothing wrong with it; just seems a bit too “safe” for something considered fashionable. My favourite part of being a model is… the ability to contribute to an industry I have a passion for. And the hardest part is… job stability and availability. On my Spotify playlist… there’s a lot of garage rock – rock music in general, synthwave and city pop. I’m kept awake at night by… past relationships and failures; fears that I’m not good enough. I fall asleep… drinking chamomile tea and watching YouTube videos. If I can travel back in time, I would… love to hang out and talk with Carl Jung in the late 1800s and early 1900s. The most embarrassing thing I’ve ever done is… usually something new every time I get drunk. I can get dressed and ready to go… in about half an hour. The closest I’ve ever come to death was… after spending a lot of my life in the hospital, you get a new appreciation for life. My favourite insult is… best served personally catered and curated to the situation and the person. My favourite quote from the movie is… “It’s like I’m reading a book, and it’s a book I deeply love, but I’m reading it slowly now so the words are really far apart and the spaces between the words are almost infinite. I can still feel you and the words of our story, but it’s in this endless space between the words that I’m finding myself now. It’s a place that’s not of the physical

world – it’s where everything else is that I didn’t even know existed. I love you so much, but this is where I am now. This is who I am now. And I need you to let me go. As much as I want to I can’t live in your book anymore.” The best bargain I’ve ever got was… at a sale at Barneys New York where CK205W39NYC items were cut by up to 90% after Raf left as creative director… bought a bunch of shoes for a huge steal. If I were a super hero… I want to have the ability to be financially competent. If I could teleport… I would love to travel to Iceland for a day or two, just to get away from everything for a bit. If I were invisible… I would probably attempt to travel internationally for free. The one thing that annoys me the most is… constantly talking about change without any attempt or drive to do so. The strangest things I’ve ever eaten are… [hesitates] can’t say I’ve eaten anything I would consider too strange or weird. My biggest addiction is… comfort food. When it comes to adapting to change, I am… on the fence. On the one hand I love new challenges and hate stagnating, but on the other hand, once I’m in any position of comfort it’s hard for me to get out of it. One of your weird quirks is… that I find chips way more attractive in a can than in a bag. The last time I cried was… recently when I was dealing with a lot of overwhelming and violent emotions and action with someone I cared about greatly. I am spontaneous… all the time. I smile when… someone I love realises how much they’re worth. A leader or a follower? A little but of both I think. I am impressed by… successful people that haven’t lost themselves in the process; that have stayed humble and are still hungry to learn and improve. The current social issues I believe need more attention are… many. I feel like not enough conversations being held about important topics such as wars and injustice that are still going on in the Middle East and I find the modern-day reaction of immediately getting offended and defensive to be tiring and counterproductive. I am afraid of… the feeling like I’m going nowhere in something I’ve put so much effort into. To me, success is… knowing that you’ve improved compared to before. And happiness is… tied into success, having known that you’ve grown from the past you, and knowing that there’s always going to be so much further to go. I’m challenged by… social interactions – but I honestly think that they challenge me for the better. My biggest strength… comes from my calves. When I need to think, I go to… anywhere but home. A personal secret that I can share with you is that… I’m a huge dork but then all my friends already know about it anyway.

XDIQ My biggest inspiration is… my dad who teaches me a lot about life. I feel most empowered when… I wear a good outfit. My dream dinner guest is… Megan Fox. The best piece of life advice I’ve gotten is… “not to put your trust fully on a person.” My most treasured possession is… my mum’s ring which she asks me to take good care of. My skincare routine… includes Yves Rocher’s face wash and toner for morning and night. My everyday hairstyle… have me shaving my head every two weeks or whenever I feel like it. My island product pick… would have to be hair gel. My favourite items in my wardrobe are... all my accessories. My biggest indulgence is... thrifting. I like to travel… on my own personal transport. My favourite place on earth is… Thailand because I like the kind of vintage items you can find there. My favourite meal of the day is… butter chicken from Quan Ice Cream & Coffee House. Sneakers or leather shoes? Leather shoes. I can’t live without… my phone. You can usually find in my bag… my wallet, although I don’t usually carry a bag. The fashion trend I just don’t get is… pop collar. My favourite part of being a model is… getting to meet creative people. And the hardest part is… waiting for payment. On my Spotify playlist… is mostly hip hop and rap music; some XXXtentacion and some Juice Wrld. I’m kept awake at night by… the thought of not being able to succeed. I fall asleep… naturally, especially at the end of a busy day. If I could travel back in time, I would… choose not to because I’d rather focus on the present since everything in life happens for a reason. The most embarrassing thing I’ve ever done was… when I did a TikTok clip for work. I can get dressed and ready to go… in about half an hour.

The closest I’ve ever come to death was… when my friend and I got into a major road accident on our way to Genting. My favourite insult is… “botak” because I clearly am, so I don’t disagree. My favourite quote from the movie is… “with great power there must also come great responsibility.” The best bargain I’ve ever got was… my Gianni Versace sweatpants for just RM1. If I were a super hero… I want to read people’s mind. If I could teleport… I would want to go to Europe and try out modelling there. If I were invisible… I would go scare people for fun. The one thing that annoys me the most is… being asked and having to explain the same thing repeatedly. The strangest things I’ve ever eaten… chicken feet. My biggest addiction is… shopping for clothes. When it comes to adapting to change, I am… aware that I need to adjust my preset routine and attitude. One of your weird quirks is… that I mumble things to myself sometimes. The last time I cried was… when I ate Samyang. I am spontaneous… anytime, any day, anywhere. I smile when… I am surrounded by a good circle of people. A leader or a follower? It depends on the situation… preferably a leader when I really have a good idea that I’m passionate about. I am impressed by… a good-looking ensemble. The current social issue I believe need more attention is… the Yemen crisis! I am afraid of… losing my parents. To me, success is… when I make my parents proud. And happiness is… to appreciate what life gives you. I’m challenged by… time. My biggest strength… would have to be my self-confidence. When I need to think, I go to… no any particular place as long as it is not crowded with people. A personal secret that I can share with you is that… I don’t eat veggies.

WORDS JOHN NG GROOMING CHU FAN STYLING ASSISTANTS AMELIA TAN & SYAZIL ABD RAHIM MODELS SILAS & XDIQ / TOPBOI CITIZEN LOCATION THE CHOW KIT – AN ORMOND HOTEL

The Unstoppable

Against all odds, these uprising local fashion brands remain on track. BY SYAZIL ABD RAHIM

EVAN YAP OF WEARMASQUAD There is great deal of competition amongst online based jewellery brands. What is your strategy to make sure your brand cuts through all that clutter? WEARMASQUAD jewellery have been worn by the likes of many online fashion influencers such as Evonne (@d8.eyes), Sushi (@suhsi.be) and Cheng (@cyiichengg). I personally choose to collaborate with these people because I think their styles represent the identity of WEARMASQUAD, which is all about making statements, and to me, this approach is very important as it directs our brand to the right target audience.

Tell us about yourself and WEARMASQUAD – and how would you describe your design? I’m a student, a fashion blogger and a freelance fashion stylist. I became interested in designing jewellery and accessories since I was 14 years old. There’s always this part of me that cherishes the beauty of art and I think WEARMASQUAD is an outlet for me to express my creativity. In terms of my design concept, I’d say it changes from time to time – like right now, it’s the neo-romanticism style and I’m not sure what comes next. As a young designer, what is the most difficult part of breaking into the industry? Social media has made it wildly accessible for just about anybody to start and own a business. On the flip side, this also makes it difficult because it has become even more competitive. This paradox makes it tough to grow a strong social media reach, particularly with engagement and followers. The way that I overcome this challenge is by giving some of my products to my favourite fashion influencers and have them style and advertise the pieces on their Instagram posts.

What are you fascinated by at the moment – and how does it feed into your work? I’m very interested in seeing the way people in the Victorian era used to dress and accessorise themselves. It gives me ideas on how they would look like if I were to add some WEARMASQUAD elements to their wardrobes. What can we expect from your upcoming collection? Something that plays with the concept of Bohemian and Victorian designs.

How are you coping with this challenging situation that we’re in right now as the result of the COVID-19 crisis? I think most entrepreneurs including myself right now are dealing with a lot of concerns. So, I say the best thing that we can do at the moment is to prioritise what’s important for the growth of the business and stay in the present. I work closely with my team to break down our business plans into smaller churns and try to get them done step by step.

Any advice for our readers who are working towards the same dream as yours? If you are going to take the plunge and start your own business – warning: it will consume a lot of time, money and energy. And if that is your passion then just go for it because no one ever gets tired of doing something that they love. 30

PHOENIX TAN PEK HAN OF PHYN STUDIO For starters, tell us about yourself and how you got into fashion design. I was born in Pantai Remis, Perak, a very small town that is not big on fashion. I have a soft spot for arts and handicrafts. When I was in the middle school, I began to see that suitable dressing brings self-confidence, and as I grow older I feel like fashion design is the perfect path for me to be on as there is no limitation on the way I express my thoughts and ideas, except myself.

these variations represent the emotions and stories that I want translated into my wearable clothing. What is your thought on the industry’s digital approach? Are you for or against it – and why? I have mixed feelings about this. On the one hand, I think the pandemic has accelerated the speed of digital development and that is something that we should celebrate. On the other hand, I also feel like this situation happens so quickly that not all of us are ready for the transition. I believe there is more to come in the future but as of now, the world of technology and the situation that we are in have opened new windows in the fashion industry. So, you can say that I am partially in favour of it.

What do you think is the most challenging part of your career – and what is most rewarding? I believe that the most challenging part for me and my team is to find the balance between our creativity and consumer demand, especially during this uncertain period. We have to cater to what our customers look for but at the same time we also need to adhere to our aesthetic. Having said that, what I think is the most rewarding part of my career is freedom of expression.

How has the pandemic influenced your design? The pandemic has forced us to focus more on producing wardrobes that are timeless in design. What is the one good thing your noticed from this crisis? The fact that we’re still here and remain strong shows that nothing can bring us down.

Looking at your previous and current collections, we can say that they are sartorial and edgy. What inspires you – and how do you translate it into your work? The collections that I have presented are related to different life elements. My designs are usually influenced by time, people, ambiance and movies that I find interesting. If you take a closer look, you can see that my designs play with different kinds of fabrics, materials, textures and silhouettes. To me

What do you say to those who wish to have their own fashion label? My advice to young fashion designers is keep exploring, be playful, and dare to be different. Break the boundaries if you have to and have faith in what you are doing. 31

NAZIFI NASRI OF NAZIFI NASRI For those who are not familiar with Nazifi Nasri, what would you like them to know about the brand? Nazifi Nasri is an eponymous brand that was established in 2014. Our specialisation is in producing men’s sandals and footwear that are both classy and minimalistic in design with comfortability in mind. Over the time, we have tried to expand our niche little by little by introducing a few limited-edition footwear for women as well as unisex accessories that include bags and small leather goods. The idea of the brand is to redefine the classic look without compromising the sensuality of the materials and craftmanship.

How are you coping with the changes in designer and consumer behaviour due to the pandemic? Ours is totally an online driven brand, we sell and market our products almost entirely via our website and social media. So, when this kind of situation came about, we amplify our online marketing campaign by creating contents that are more engaging such as flash sale and teaser for new products. Other than that, we also take customer feedback very seriously so that we can cater to what they are really looking for from our brand. How has social media helped you in expanding your brand? I’d say social media has helped us immensely, as it has with the other brands out there. In my opinion, business owners today should not take this “free opportunity” for granted because this is and has been the best platform for us to flourish our labels and to engage with customers globally.

What is the innovation you bring into the world of footwear design? We are very specific when it comes to design, which is to stay simple and not being too elaborate, yet powerful enough to amp up any look or style of the wearer. For a brand like yours that values design and craft, was it difficult to find the right business partners to make it scalable whilst preserving the quality of your products? We found it is quite difficult because Nazifi Nasri treasures arts and craftsmanship very much, thus it is vital for our brand to have experts in the shoe and accessory making field. Topping off, our products are very limited and exclusive, and we see that as an opportunity for our production team to really take their time in creating each piece so that the end result is impeccable.

What’s next for your brand – and how do you plan to get there? We are currently working on new cardholder and bag designs. This time around, we’re looking at bold and bright colours, something unusual compared to our original colour scheme which are usually dark and mellow. We are also on the verge of introducing new products for women so stay tuned and check out our social media for more details. 32

SHAO FEN SEAH OF SHAOFEN What comes into your mind when you started Shaofen? Shaofen is a brand with an androgynous aesthetic. The objective is to design clothing for the modern wardrobe with quality and timeless design. The outfits are designed to stay relevant at all time regardless of trends and seasons. It started with the idea of building an ideal closet with clothes that I personally will wear and want to be comfortable in.

Our studio operates with a CMT (cut-make-trim) system where majority of pieces are made-to-order to prevent overproduction nor create unnecessary waste. What is your take on fashion’s digital approach? It is a great approach, but I am not in favour completely of this medium yet. I feel like there is a lack of sensuality to it. I believe that there will be other better ways of doing this and I am really looking forward to it.

What makes Shaofen different from other ready-to-wear brands? I try to incorporate modern twists to traditional silhouette. Therefore, you will find that most of my designs are unique in their own way and wearable at the same time.

How has social media contributed to your brand? Social media has been a truly important platform for me as it allows my brand to be exposed to the entire world. It allows my products to be articulated across the web and connected with Shaofen’s followers, potential buyers even collaborators. Things get more exciting when they are unpredictable – whether it’s an opportunity or a challenge, you just have to keep soaring upwards.

What kind of person owns Shaofen? Ideally someone with a great interest with everything under the roof of art and design. Also, someone that values details and craftmanship.

What do you think the upcoming fashion trends are going to look like? I can say that technology has pretty much dominated the world of fashion. In the future, we can find more quality garments being produced by machines with more sensible designs making their ways into the industry.

How is your brand coping with the world’s current concern? At our design house, we have made some changes to our collection release date and we try to slow down on our production. We also want to be extra conscious with our products that they shall be practical and appropriate to be worn for any occasions.

Any advice for budding fashion designers out there? Practice makes perfect, and understanding your subject is equally important.

What does sustainability look like for your brand? 33

DAREN YEAP OF UGLYPRETTY How did shopping at thrift stores drive you to launch UglyPretty? I started off reworking the outfits that I bought from secondhand shops and wore them out in public. I also posted a few of the restructured pieces on my social media. Soon, I began to receive inquiries from my followers and sometimes strangers about my outfits and they liked and were interested in buying them. So, I decided to start UglyPretty where I sell repurpose and redesign clothes that I purchased from thrift shops.

The fact that UglyPretty is a new to the industry, how has it been so far? How are you adapting to the current situation? Due to the pandemic, it has been very challenging. As a designer and a business owner, I have to adjust and adapt quickly. A major challenge is to maintain a sense of communication with my audience. I learned that social media is an extremely powerful tool for maintaining easy and effective communication. Has the pandemic influenced your design concept? My designs were meant to be “quirky” and “unconventional”. It is still largely that way, but the pandemic has force me to tweak my approach. I’m exploring more wearable designs such as modern corsets, shirts and crop-tops as alternatives, while still maintaining UglyPretty’s aesthetic.

Where do you usually go to find inspiration? And who do you look up to? My design inspiration comes primarily from my daily life and my “out-of-the-box” approach to fashion. With a sketchbook always in hand as I look around at magazines or boutique display, I would get many “what ifs” idea. An example would be, “What if a mannequin hand is stitched on a jacket?”. Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo is largely the reason why I think this way. She has inspired me to make design normality in a different way.

What do you hope people take away from your design? I always welcome positive criticisms because it helps to improve my brand and designs. I also take note of negative criticisms and consume them in strides. In a way, those comments help me fill up those loopholes in my works and drive me to be creative.

In your opinion, what makes UglyPretty so different from other independent fashion brands out there? UglyPretty will always be about seeing beauty in different ways. What is the definition of “ugly”? What is “pretty” for that matter? Such notions are subject to the eye of the beholder. UglyPretty celebrates and champions this ideal for all to live by.

Can you tell us what’s your plan for UglyPretty? I hope to bring more new styles and forms of clothing into the market. I want my brand to drive people to dress up for themselves and be proud of what they are wearing. I also wish that my designs will inspire other uprising fashion designers to think out of the box. 34

KEL WEN OF BEHATI How would you describe Behati and your sense of design? Modern traditionalist. Whenever I create, I always refer to classic silhouettes, whether it is baju kurung, kebaya or sarong skirt. I try to modernise them with tailoring details, or the other way round. I like to infuse Malaysian heritage elements into my designs.

and we will reconstruct them based on a few design options. Fashion industry going digital – yay or nay? I am always supportive when it comes to digital content because I feel like this will be the future of fashion. To me, the digital platform allows all, if not most fashion labels to be more creative in expressing their creativity, and above all, their creations get to be seen internationally.

And you have instilled even more local elements into your latest collection. Why is that so? Malaysian history inspires me the most, especially our traditional costumes because I think the subject is pretty much untouched in the global fashion scene. I found that exploring into this course very inspiring, while allowing me to reinterpret classical designs with current concepts. Other than that, I also included a bit of the historical elements into our ad campaign, from colours to mood and backdrobe.

As a fashion designer, it must be tough when it comes to trendspotting in the middle of the pandemic. How do you overcome it? I personally feel that at Behati we are at ease with this matter because again social media has played a major role for us in doing our research. The digital access that we have has allowed us to observe and follow global fashion trends, and what I have noticed recently is that people are opting more towards dressing down. Most fashion designers today are showcasing pieces that are timeless, and as one of them, I think Behati is also driving towards the same path.

Fashion designers and consumers have been behaving differently since the pandemic. How is your brand adapting? We focus more of our attention on creating interactive online contents. We make sure that we are engaging our customers as much as possible through our website and social media platforms. We produce more wearable wardrobes with designs that are practical and sophisticated, that our customers can pull off as daily wear. The first drop was released in September. We also look at the sustainability aspect of our products, which means that our collections are now limited to a few pieces. This will help us to supervise our production and minimise the waste of materials and fabrics. Another initiative that we have in the pipeline is to reinvent and redesign old garments into brand new pieces. Customers will have to send their clothes to us

How are you feeling right now that we are in the RMCO phase? I’m slowly getting back on track, busier than before honestly. Having to spend much of my time at home has allowed me to think of new ideas. Recently, I worked with our homegrown talent Ernie Zakri to direct her latest music video entitled Boneka. I was also requested to dress up Dato’ Sri Siti Nurhaliza for her two upcoming music videos. It is indeed a tough time for everyone, but we just have to keep moving forward. 35

Treasure Trove

Ahead of their new comeback with ‘The First Step: Chapter Two’, we talk to 2020’s rising K-Pop boy group TREASURE about their aspirations, success and ideals. BY CALVIN CHONG

Your group marks as the band with the highest album sales for their debut within the YG family. How does that achievement make you feel? We are honoured and so grateful! We still can’t forget the day we did our first ever performance on a music show! We have had so many fans and Treasure Makers who supported us since day one, and we are just so grateful to have their support throughout our journey. They are the reason we all want to work and train harder to give our best performance and we would do anything to give them joy, especially through our music. We can’t wait to see all our fans!

If you’re in the K-Pop world as an artist (be it solo or group), the road to debut is a hard one and sometimes, it involves a talent search reality programme. For TREASURE, a 12-member boy group, that was their path – auditioning and working hard as trainees under YG Entertainment, participating in a massive reality TV show YG Treasure Box and even more training and preparation before their major debut titled The First Step: Chapter One, a single album featuring four tracks. Even during YG Treasure Box, the boys’ talents are apparent and their fandom (named Treasure Makers) grew bigger by each episode and by the time of their debut, TREASURE broke multiple records, including taking the record for largest number of albums sold by a rookie group in 2020 and breaking YG’s internal record for highest pre-order sales for a rookie’s debut, surprising the likes of their seniors BLACKPINK, WINNER, iKON and BIG BANG, proving that they are one of the monster rookies to watch for 2020.

How is the team dynamic within the group? Who do you see as the father or big brother figure and who is the baby? TREASURE has two leaders! Since our trainee days, Choi Hyun Suk and Jihoon have led the group. They are like father figures to us! They are very charismatic and always take good care of us! The youngest of the group is most definitely our “Super King Cow Baby” So Jung Hwan. He is like a baby, but there are times when he behaves more mature than most of us!

And in celebration of their latest comeback The First Step: Chapter Two, which was released just recently, we have an exclusive interview with the boys to talk about their journey in K-Pop and what the new single album means to them.

What do you hope to achieve in the coming years? As of now, we are preparing to release several albums by the end of the year, so we are just hoping everything goes well as planned! In the long term, we hope TREASURE as a group can grow to become one of the world’s greatest artists! Each and every one of us is talented with our own individual merits, and we hope to make good use of them to bring happiness to our fans!

Coordinated by Will Kim I MAXPERIENCE (MPE) I www.maxperience.asia

Do you think your first single album The First Step: Chapter One captures the aesthetic and essence of your group? Well, we are still in the process of defining the true essence of TREASURE! In our first album, we tried to mix the original vibe of YG with a twist of our own distinct styles. We really tried our best to make our music more approachable to various listeners in a way that they could see our charm and potential.

Your next single album, The First Step: Chapter Two have just debuted – can you tell us more about it? Is it a continuation from the narrative of the previous album? Through BOY, the title song of The First Step: Chapter One, we tried to express the innocence of a reckless boy in love. In The First Step: Chapter Two, those emotions grow and become stronger. It is somewhat of a sequential love journey. We have devoted all of our passion into the music and choreography of this second single!

Since there are so many of us, we hope that our listeners can experience the many different sides of TREASURE and the dynamics in our choreography! We think that BOY is a song that really emphasises our diversity! Was the preparation very intensive for your first single album debut? Since it was our debut album, we really put in a lot of hard work and effort into it! We spent most of our time in the studio recording and practising until everything was perfect. We knew that a lot of our fans were eagerly waiting for our debut, so we uploaded several cover song and dance videos to show them snippets of what we had in store. We would like to thank all our fans who have patiently waited for the album and have given us support throughout the process!

Do you have a message to the Malaysian Treasure Makers? We would like to thank all of our Malaysian Treasure Makers! We have prepared a lot for you guys so please stay tuned! We hope you all stay safe, stay healthy, and stay positive during such difficult times. We love you all and always find your treasure! 37

Tudor

Sky High

In the horology realm, the colour blue is grabbing headlines. Here, our favourites â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and why. BY JOHN NG

Omega

IWC

Jaeger-LeCoultre

After introducing its completely new (and extremely successful) Heritage Black Bay watch two years ago, it is about time for Tudor to release the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”. The watch didn’t just get its name from its colour, but also the year 1958 in which the first Tudor divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres was presented. The 39mm diameter, polished and satin-brushed surfaces, screw-crown with the rose logo and domed sapphire crystal are the same technical specifications as the previous model. Inside, the watch is also powered by the Calibre MT5402 with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and silicon balance spring. The use of dark blue aside, the silver-coated applied indexes and hands are filled with white luminous material, with the bezel following suit with a 60-minute track with silver gilded markings.

With its sporty, nautical note, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club collection has always offered versatile watches capable enough for your sailing trip as they are for a casual cocktail party by the beach. The new Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is encased in a large 44.6mm case crafted in 18-carat rose gold. Instead of your usual chronograph, the dial features a novel indication based on two sub-counters. The one at 6 o’clock displays the expected times for the next high and low tide, while the other at 12 o’clock – indicating both the northern and southern hemisphere – showcases the moon phase and also provides information about the strength of the current tides. The watch is further enhanced with the classic leafshaped Portugieser hands and gold-applied Arabic numerals as well as a matching blue rubber strap.

It was early 2020 when the Omega Constellation Gents’ collection received a major makeover and the watch brand has since then launched the larger and sportier Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 41mm. Although it may not be considered a drastic overhaul, the new variants with updated cases, dials and movement are enough to give the watch collection a fresh look. So what’s new? The case diameter reaches 41mm (from 39mm) with blue ceramic bezel filled with Ceragold; the blue sun-brushed dial features slimmer indices and hands; and the robust Calibre 8900 comes with anti-magnetic properties and power reserve of up of 60 hours.

Featuring hours and minutes functions with a running time indicator and unidirectional bezel one would expect to find on a dive watch, as well as an instant-jump date display, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is a practical yet fundamentally powerful watch. Highlighted by their rich gradient-blue colour, the dial consists of multiple parts finished with different textures – where the sunray-brushed central disc is complemented by the subtle graining of the middle ring and the opaline finish of the outer ring – and features bold indexes and three Arabic numerals. The Super-LumiNova-filled hands, indexes and numerals, together with the use of different 39

Tudor

Hublot

Panerai

colours, make them readable in low light conditions. The two crowns are distinctive of super compressor-style diving watch cases, with the upper crown operates the inner bezel and lower one sets the time and date. Powered by a new-generation version of Calibre 899, the watch is fitted with some technical improvements to guarantee a power reserve of 70 hours.

Longines

combination of white and sky blue. The hefty 45mm ceramic case shows off polished and satin-finished surfaces, with a white central case to add an ultramodern contrast effect. The dial with the bold numerals and indices integrated into the skeleton latticework feels a lot more legible compared to the other skeleton chronograph dials. Equipped by the in-house HUB1242 UNICO automatic chronograph flyback movement with column wheel and a power reserve of 72 hours, the watch may not be a diving watch per se but it is still water-resistant up to 100 metres.

Continue establishing its proud marine heritage, Panerai unveiled the Luminor Blu Mare – 44mm, which exhibits a sporty yet sophisticated interpretation on a diver’s watch. It features a blue dial boosted by the satiné soleil decorating technique alongside Arabic numerals and indices as well as hour and minute hands filled with green Super-LumiNova inside a highperformance AISI 316L steel case with the Panerai Screw System. The double arrow “OP” logo, a stylised version of Panerai’s logo that dates back to the 1980s, can be found at the 6 o’clock position. Powered by the Calibre P.6000, designed and developed entirely in-house by the Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel, the Luminor Blu Mare – 44mm is neatly finished with a calfskin strap in blue and secured by a pin buckle in brushed steel.

Last but not least, paying tribute to famous sky adventurers such as Amelia Earhart, Paul-Emile Victor, Elinor Smith and Howard Hughes, the new Spirit Collection from Longines’s Heritage line carries watches that are retro-inspired with modern-day aesthetic. Recognisable details such as the oversized crown, the distinct step around the crystal, the legible Arabic numerals on the dial and the large and luminous baton-styled hands are classic elements of a pilot’s watch from back in the pioneering days of aviation. This chronograph is proposed with a sunray blue dial with a sturdy 42mm stainless steel case. Outfitted with the column-wheel movement Calibre L688.4, it beats at 4 Hz (28,800 vph) and has a power reserve of 60 hours.

Not a brand that shies away from vibrant shades, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is a dynamic watch in a vivacious 41

Time Of Desire Whether it’s the modern material, striking shade, assertive aesthetic – or a combination of everything, you want to add these watches to your collection. BY JOHN NG

A SENSE OF SUBTLE GRACE This chronograph calendar from JaegerLeCoultre’s Master Control collection has been making headlines since its release. The traditional dial configuration features a stopwatch and full calendar, framed by a pulsometer scale. Equipped with the newly developed Calibre 759, JLC combines a chronograph with a triple calendar and moon phase for the first time. Measuring at 40mm wide and 12.05mm high, the watch is surprisingly compact.

AS LARGE AS IT IS PRETTY This stunning IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide number, featuring a moon phase for both hemispheres and a newly developed tide display, boasts time defying design and functionality in equal parts. Despite the 44.6mm rose gold case, the watch is anything but uncomfortably chunky. Further heightening its charm is the immaculately decorated IWCmanufactured 82835 calibre, which can be viewed through the sapphire glass back.

SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED This Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Edition watch stands out with a 42mm case crafted in platinum-gold, with a platinum-gold plate on the side where the numbered edition number is engraved. In addition, more details can be found throughout the design, including the black ceramic bezel ring and black enamel dial. In commemoration of the 50th anniversary of the latest James Bond film, there is a hidden number 50 within the Super-LumiNova of the 10 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock index.

FUSION OF SOPHISTICATION Designed with city adventurers in mind, the Bell & Ross BR 05 line-up is identifiable by the integrated bracelet which fuses with the case to create a unified piece. This new BR 05 Black Steel & Gold addition goes back in time â&#x20AC;&#x201C; specifically the 80s when two-tone was a huge trend â&#x20AC;&#x201C; by combining 18-carat rose gold with satin-finished and satin-polished steel. The black sunray dial contrasts perfectly with the rose gold applique numerals, indices, and skeletonised hour and minute hands.

THE SQUARE WITHIN Charmingly irresistible, this reincarnation of the Cartier Pasha 41mm watch boasts a square filigree rail-track with four bold Arabic numerals and one of its most distinctive features, namely, the screw-down crown fitted with a blue spinel or sapphire that reveals a customisable engraving underneath. In steel, gold or leather, all versions can be interchanged thanks to an adaptation of the Cartier-developed QuickSwitch system.

TO THE MOON AND BACK The Hermès Arceau L’heure de la Lune watch reasserts Hermes’ mission for creating goodlooking timepieces that pushes traditional design conventions by turning the concept of traditional moonphase watch on its head. The 12 o’clock moon features silhouette of the Pegasus artwork designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko, while the 6 o’clock moon illustrates the actual lunar surface. And get this: the dials are made with an actual meteorite material.

THE SHADOW Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a revival of a 1970s chronograph model that was never serially produced, is a reimagining of a historical prototype. Housed in a 37mm case, it has opted for microblasted titanium over PVDcoated steel used in the original that enhances the dark nuances with a completely matte finish. The black dial contrasts with the three counters and tachymeter scale close in hue to the case colour.

FEEL THE PRESENT A throwback to one of Rado’s icons, the Golden Horse 1957 Automatic Limited Edition comes with the original hands and indexes, the two traditional golden seahorses just about 6 o’clock, and the red date at 3 o’clock, an emblematic feature of Rado watches from the 60s and 70s on a fantastical black to green gradient dial. Although the 37mm polished stainless steel case is small by contemporary standards, the overall watch appearance is balanced and proportionate with a very well done old-school rice-grain bracelet that comfortably wrap around the wrist.

LIVE, PLAY, REPEAT Appropriate for hardcore athletes and casual enthusiasts as well as fashionable enough for everyday wear, Breitlingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Endurance Pro combines high precision, innovative technology, and vibrant, colourful design, making it the ideal luxury sports watch. Equipped with the COSC-certified Breitling Calibre 82, whose SuperQuartz technology offers exceptional precision, the watch is crafted from Breitlight, a robust, ultra-light material that is highly resistant to scratches, traction, and corrosion. The rubber stap colour is the same as the inner bezel ring for a pop of visual excitement.

NO SMALL ACCOMPLISHMENT The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds watch comes with a streamlined 40mm steel case topped by a gently domed sapphire crystal and features a fumĂŠ dial in vibrant Matrix Green with sunburst pattern. Proving small design details go a long way, the case middle has hollowed and satin-finished forms on the sides. The flexible integrated bracelet with contains fluid lines. Displaying the hours and minutes, the 3D hands are formed of two sections and utilise inserts made from Globolight, an innovative ceramic-based material which contains Super-LumiNova.

Life – Celebrated

The Dior Men’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection by creative director Kim Jones that pays tribute to the life, work and extraordinary vision of Judy Blame. BY JOHN NG

For the Dior Men’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection, Kim Jones offers a view of the future by exploring past and present iconographic archives of the Maison. Additionally, the creative director also delves into Dior’s rich haute couture history all the while honouring his chief inspiration the late Judy Blame.

the line-up, each look is completed with opera gloves and buttons covered in fabric, alongside riveting plays on volumes, and fickle yet focused depths, pleats, and drapes that reference to couture tailoring techniques. The mid-20th century, a symbolic crossroad in fashion history, influences the accessories range. Footwear retain their traditional magnetism, a distinct characteristic of Dior’s heritage on leather craftmanship. The Saddle is reinterpreted with considerably more fluid structures as a soft Saddle, reminiscing of graphic briefcases and camera bags. Made in calfskin, the bag is available in subdued palette such as black, camel-vicuna and navy blue, embellished with finely-beaded embroidery.

Photos Dior

A well-established fixture of the early Eighties London club scene, the late British stylist, accessories designer and punk iconoclast was known for his prowess in transcending mundane objects to open the gate to the artistic world. Blame was one of the founding members of The House of Beauty and Culture in Dalston, a unique effervescent gathering place for talented creatives such as Christopher Nemeth, Mark Lebon and Dave Baby. In his later years, Blame collaborated with designers like Rei Kawakubo, Gareth Pugh, Marc Jacobs, and yes, Kim Jones.

Dior’s signature Toile de Jouy print, a motif which adorned Christian Dior’s first boutique, get a Blame twist with a pair of graphic intarsia knit sweaters called “Toile de Judy”, designed alongside Trust Judy Blame, a foundation established in Blame’s honour – and draws on the artist’s revolutionary work.

Continuing blurring the gender line, the silhouettes illustrate the notion of clothing as a creative process of building a fashion piece as opposed to showcasing the finished products. Details, cuts and engineered zips that enhance the construction of the clothes, shoes and accessories, Christian Dior’s deep affinity for architecture resonates loudly and boldly in the pieces. The Dior logos are pierced with an image of a safety pin, a nod to Blame’s DIY-inspired roots.

Jewellery, designed by Dior Men’s jewellery designer Yoon Ahn, features a range of metallic chains and charms that hang on coat lapels take cues from Blame’s very own pieces and engraved and embossed with the Dior logo, as well as decorated with cannage or lily of the valley motifs. Referencing to Blame’s punk style, the metal zip hardware embellishes the most unlikely of items such as berets and Chelsea boots. This meaningful and creative conversation between Dior and Judy Blame is testament to the power of savoir-faire, which made this the most eloquent effort yet from Jones at Dior.

The collection, enriched in shades of grey and blue, comes together in silk, embroideries, and the arabesque motifs and paisley patterns. Welcoming a dramatic emotion to 53

Turn Back Time

If thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only one designer who can assertively claim to have shaken up menswear in recent times, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highly possible that he is Alessandro Michele. Challenging the traditional idea of masculinity, the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2020/2021 collection returns to childhood when gender code is a non-issue. BY JOHN NG

The innocent childlike scribble, “You are invited to my fifth birthday rave, Ale” on the French vintage postcard-style invitation serves to refresh the memory of every guest that 2020 is Alessandro Michele’s fifth anniversary as the creative director of the Italian house, while ever so discreetly announcing that the Gucci Autumn/ Winter 2020/2021 show is going to be a celebration to remember.

words, toxic masculinity produces oppressors and victims at the same time.” The collection includes a prim powder blue suit with knickerbockers, black leather school shoes and square metal bags and GG-patterned knee-high socks, as well as a gingham coat, a knitted sweater with the mantra “Mon petit chou” and a couple of low-slung jeans. There are also oversized knits, and a striking-looking leopard-print coat, metallic flares and grungy ’90s denim, as well as a couple pair of jeans appearing soiled by the unmistakable green bruising of grass stains: a perennial laundry-day challenge for parents of boys. The silent killer has got be the blue velvet blazer, especially so when it is finished off with a hard-to-miss earring.

Instead of being nostalgic, Michele invites us to reminisce on an interesting period of time in everyone’s life as we reflect on the established norms of masculinity through a collection inspired by childhood, when there’s absolutely zero constraint on the dressing front. “Childhood is a free time, there are fewer labels [and] you can be yourself. When you grow up you are told ‘you can’t do that [because] you’re a boy and you’re going to primary school’” he was once quoted saying.

Other highlights are comprised of bags with the word “fake” one the one side and “not” on the other, and T-shirts with the slogan “impotent/impatient” and “thank/think”. The tidy pair of Ultrapace R sneaker gets a makeover with a performance-inspired look, featuring a more modern tech composition – the type you can envisage making its mark on mainstream in the vein of the Rhyton. What about accessories? There’s everything from bolero hats to animal pins to diamond chandelier necklaces to sparkly gems.

What Michele does here isn’t a stark contrast from what his past collections have been reverberating though. Since his debut show, he has been tabling the cloud of connotations surrounding the preconceived notions on inclusiveness. The first collection was soft yet powerful with a gender-fluid message – and the conversation continues in this collection conveying through pieces from preadolescence.

Photos Gucci

“In a patriarchal society, masculine gender identity is often moulded by violently toxic stereotypes. A dominant, winning, oppressive masculinity model is imposed on babies at birth. Attitudes, languages and actions end up progressively conforming to a macho virility ideal that removes vulnerability and dependence. Any possible reference to femininity is aggressively banned, as it is considered a threat against the complete affirmation of a masculine prototype that allows no divergencies,” the show note states.

For the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2020/2021 collection, it isn’t Michele’s intention to coerce us into revising and reconsidering our old, learned conception of masculinity. Instead, the creative director offers alternative interpretations about being a man in a world that is diverse and brimming with different elements because no matter how open-minded and socially conscious we think we are, it is our responsibility to not allow stereotype and prejudice influence our discernment process. “It’s not about suggesting a new normative model, rather to release who was constrained. Breaking a symbolic order, which is nowadays useless. Nourishing a space of possibility where masculine can shake its toxicity off, to freely regain what was taken away. And, in doing this, turning back time, learning to unlearn,” the note ended. And in this case, we reckon Michele appears to have successfully communicated his point of view with an array of gender-refuting garments.

“There is nothing natural in this drift. The model is socially and culturally built to reject anything that doesn’t comply with it. And this has very serious implications. Toxic masculinity, in fact, nourishes abuse, violence and sexism. And not only that. It condemns men themselves to conform to an imposed phallocratic virility in order to be socially accepted. In other 55

Downtown Cool

Coach creative director Stuart Vevers embraces the kaleidoscopic spirit of â&#x20AC;&#x2122;80s New York for Coach Autumn/Winter 2020 collection. BY NAWAF RAHMAN

Photos Coach

Walking into the Coach show at an industrial warehouse, replete with upcycled shearling benches in downtown New York City, it was pretty much immediately obvious what the theme was. A continuation to his refreshingly stripped-back Spring outing and the Pre-Fall collection, creative director Stuart Vevers had his sights on 1980s New York’s downtown art scene with bursts of primary colours, geometric prints and a decidedly youthful energy for Coach Autumn/Winter 2020 collection.

through and through. As with previous collections from the American label, layering plays a huge role in each look together with the house’s signature shearling outerwear pieces. This collection, the fits are more relaxed and oversized, harking back to the 70s and leather boots have been swapped out for retro-inspired sneakers and pumps, fit for Coach’s city dweller. Without neglecting the brand’s tongue-in-cheek charms, the relaxed vibe carries into the accessories. Geometric bags were effortlessly carried like wristlets while slouchy ones were folded and tucked under the arm.

Despite the infusions of familiarity from last season’s city vibe, Coach managed to keep things fresh with modern homages and touchpoints. This season’s collection was created in collaboration with influential African-American artist, JeanMichel Basquiat. In that vein, Vevers rendered a selection of Basquiat’s paintings into eclectic prints that appeared on key pieces such as trench coats, T-shirts, bomber jackets, wool scarf and all leather accessories. To mark the collaboration, members of Basquiat’s family were in attendance, including the artist’s niece, Jessica Kelly, who also walked the show.

Then Vevers pulled out one more surprise: Debbie Harry, wearing a dress and camel coat emblazoned with Basquiat prints, arrived to join the Coathangers for a performance of Dreaming while models walked the finale. Certainly, Vevers has done an impressive job of pushing Coach beyond its humble roots as a heritage leather goods brand and this season he took things up a notch yet again. If one had to sum up the story of this collection in a couple of words, it might go something like: chic American in the 21st century goes to downtown New York.

Dressed in distressed leather jackets and colourful 80s aesthetic, the models exuded a “busy New Yorker” attitude 57

Autumn/Winter 2020 Trend Report

A new season deserves a closet refresh! Start by getting well inform of the top trends from the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris â&#x20AC;&#x201C; consider this your ultimate edit.

MSGM

Xander Zhou

HANDS OFF

Gloves are a winter staple, but this season, a number of designers have given the underrated accessory their own unique spin with the general mood being almost over the top in its fabulous fashion edge. At Dior, Kim Jones overtly, wholeheartedly nodded to the romantic, bygone glamour by incorporating the velvet opera gloves while others used gloves in more subversive ways, like Armani and Xander Zhou, who added neon pops to their sober coats and suits. Though they wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ever form the foundation of an outfit, be mindful that they can change how one looks and nothing elevates an ensemble quite the same way a pair of gloves does.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Dior Men

Emporio Armani

Versace

Dries Van Noten

BY NAWAF RAHMAN

Marni

Hermès

Givenchy

Gucci

Off-White

Magliano

If you’re looking for a way to update your a/w wardrobe without giving the closet a complete overhaul, it’d be wise to add a cardigan to your cart. Besides the usual outerwear staples, this piece is bound to be a major player this season with many of the men’s collections embracing oversized cardigan to offset the rise of slimmed-down silhouettes. Gucci, Ferragamo and Givenchy took the preppy staple for a high fashion spin, but we suggest you start by scouring your dad’s closet first to get on the trend. 59

Salvatore Ferragamo

EVERYDAY CARDIGAN

Raf Simons

Yohji Yamamoto

JW Anderson

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Prada

Burberry

Loewe

WRITE A CHECK

Although tonal dressing certainly dominated most A/W ’20 collections, there was one print that definitely made itself heard and that was checks. This season, checks are styled in courageous, eclectic colours, with designers trying out in a less referential light head-totoe plaid dressing and unconventional mixed patchwork patterns. The traditional checked was seen in various incarnations across the cities, finding itself in chic check jackets at Loewe, Raf Simons and Dries Van Noten, expanded gingham at Prada and embracing its more traditional roots at Giorgio Armani and Burberry. JW Anderson and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus were among those who made checks work.

Bode

Bethany Williams

No. 21

Gucci

David Catalan

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy

Contrary to popular belief, it wasn’t all covered and layered up on the A/W ’20 runways as shorts were everywhere this season. This might be the divisive trend of the season for some, but according to Gucci, No. 21 and Per Götesson, showing some skin in cool seasons won’t hurt. If the thought of wearing shorts alone in low temperature is enough to make you shiver, here’s the trick: pair them with knee-skimming boots or socks. How much to conceal and reveal? That’s up to you. 61

Per Götesson

SHOW SOME THIGHS

Craig Green

Ann Demeulemeester

Balmain

OAMC

Jacquemus

Lanvin

Ludovic de Saint Sernin

TOTAL WHITEOUT

Timeless and beloved but always playing the safe foil to showier pieces, this season designers deconstructed and reconstructed new identities for the classic all-white outfits. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s growing subset of fashion fans who find themselves increasingly frustrated by the way clothes are now geared towards online virality, resulting in over-shouty showpieces. The return of the unfussy all-white piece symbolises a rejection of flash in favour of quiet chic.

Amiri

Vetement

Natasha Zinko x Duo

Juun.J

Alyx

Ludovic de Saint Sernin

TOTAL LEATHER

Gucci

Leather is no newbie during this season. However, the question is no longer “if” but “how” leather will be styled. While recent years have given way to leather in bold colours, this season is forecasted to be dominated by heavy, black leather in head-to-toe looks. Thick, tailored pieces, leather trench coats with leather boots, and matching, matte leather separates are now the new black–again. 63

Louis Vuitton Private Policy

Todd Snyder

To no oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surprise, utility garments are staying on, with (enormous) pockets appearing in good proportion all across runways. Putting fun in functional, designers proposed the more pocket the better and stacked the maximalist details on some vests, jackets and cargo pants for your essentials and built to stand the test of time. Tony Snyder, Louis Vuitton and Casablanca experimented with extra pockets on jackets and vest while the coolkid brands such as Maison Mihara Yasuhiro and Private Policy pushed for more pockets on cargo pants. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s low-effort but definitely high-impact and useful.

Maison Mihara Yasuhiro

Casablanca

OAMC Wooyoungmi

PURE UTILITY

We11done

Sacai

Comme des Garรงons Homme Plus

Rick Owens

GmbH

Ann Demeulemeester

The traditional tailoring will remain a perennial menswear code but this season, designers enlivened the pieces with a sculptural element. With unexpected slits and slices on the waist, chest and other random areas, the cut-out treatment gave tailoring a very good run for its money because that tiny slither of skin can make far more of an impact than you might think. A slash of skin looks particularly alluring peeking out as seen at Sacai, GmbH and We11done. 65

NIHL

CUT IT OUT

Fendi

Dolce & Gabbana

Loewe

MYAR

Salvatore Ferragamo

Sacai

Prada

WELLY, THEN

While the glove was an unexpected dose of traditional elegance, one of the more prominent footwear trends to come out of the shows was quite the opposite. Gone were the chunky sneakers weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve become familiar with Prada, Loewe, Sacai and Ferragamo all giving the humble Wellington boot a high-fashion makeover, suggesting that clunky comfort is set to rule the seasons. Waterproof and cozy, this is a shoe you can look forward to stomping through the wintery slush in.

Gucci

Givenchy

Munn

Dior Men

Off-White

THE BIGGER THE BETTER

Fendi

Stefan Cooke

Mini bags and backpacks? Been there, done that. This season, up your bag game with a larger than life carry-all. For those who’ve been holding out for the perfect specimen, A/W ’20 is here to serve. The options are many, from Dior Men’s Saddle Soft to Givenchy’s Antigona Soft Bag. This season also marks the return of handbags, as evidenced by the various houses that have given their own interpretation of it on the runway including Gucci and Stefan Cooke. 67

Are You Happy? Oversized jacket, printed shirt, high-waist pants – only throw on clothes that make you smile – inside. PHOTOGRAPHY LINUS MORALES/LOMO MANAGEMENT STYLING & CREATIVE DIRECTION HANIBALL SALIBA

Wool coat, Lemair. Leather shirt, Cerruti 1881. Pants, Raf Simons. Turtleneck, Z Zegna. Boots, Givenchy. Opposite page Couduroy suit, Kenzo. Polo shirt, Balmain.

Leather jacket, Bally. Turtleneck, Falke. Shirt, Alexander McQueen. Trousers, Bottega Veneta. Boots, Gucci.

Blazer, Prada. Mask, Falke.

Twill coat, Bottega Veneta. Pants, Alexander McQueen. Turtleneck, Falke. Derby, Z Zegna.

Jacket, Cerruti 1881. Pants, Dries Van Noten. Boots, Bottega Veneta. Turtleneck, Falke.

Wool coat, Givenchy. Polo sweater, Dries Van Noten. Derby, Burberry.

Turtleneck, Saint Laurent. Shirt, Z Zegna. Trousers, Comme des Garรงons.

Corduroy suit, Kenzo. Polo shirt, Balmain. Socks, Falke. GROOMING DIRK NEUHÃ&#x2013;FFER MODEL BONG KIM/ NEST MODELS MANAGEMENT SPECIAL THANKS TO HOTEL ART NOUVEAU BERLIN

When The Sun Comes Out Use colour to brighten up a gloomy day â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and wardrobe.

PHOTOGRAPHY STEVE HARNACKE (@STEVE_HARNACKE) STYLING & ART DIRECTION ALESSANDRA BLOOM (@IAMALESSANDRABLOOM)/ CORNE FASHION MANAGEMENT (@CORNEFASHIONMANAGEMENT)

Jacket and trousers, Amiri. Shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti.

Denim T-shirt, pants and belt, Salvatore Ferragamo. Shirt, Tommy Hilfiger. Shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti.

Jacket, shirt and trousers, Tommy Hilfiger.

Turtleneck, jacket and pants, Versace.

Blazer, shirt, trousers and shoes, Alexander McQueen.

Suit, shirt and shoes, Alexander McQueen. Opposite page Jacket and shirt, Louis Vuitton.

Trousers, Louis Vuitton.

PRODUCTION & CASTING SIMONE BRONZI (@SIMONE_BRONZI) PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS BILLY JAYNE, EVELYN BELTRAN, MILES JAYNE, DYLAN MOORE & LUCAS HALAC STYLING ASSISTANTS MARIA BERNARDI (@MBSTYLIST) & VITTORIA ROSSI PROVESI (@ VRP_STYLING) MODEL GABRIEL JAYNE (@GABRIEL_JAYNE)/ WILHELMINA LOS ANGELES (@WILHELMINALOSANGELES)

New Kid On The Block

The very essence of casual attire is its adaptability. Disclaimer: this is not a permission to ignore dress code where respect is due. PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID GARCIA (@DAVIDGARCIAPHOTOGRAPHER) STYLING ELISABETH MERINO (@ELISABETHSTYLIST)

Jacket, turtleneck sweater, trousers and boots, Dries Van Noten.

Sweatshirt, Custo Barcelona. Trousers, American Vintage. Watch and necklace, Guess. Shoes, Versace. Opposite page Shirt, Lorenzo Martinez. Necklace, Andres Zurru. T-shirt, Gucci. Trousers, Custo Barcelona. Shoes, Premiata.

Shirt, Etro. T-shirt, Fred Perry. Trousers, Lorenzo Martinez. Shoes, Versace.

Jacket, trousers and sneakers, Versace. Watch, Michael Kors. Opposite page Jacket, trousers, Custo Barcelona. Polo shirt, Lyle & Scott. Watch, Guess. Socks, Happy Socks. Sandals, Timberland. Necklace, Andres Zurru.

Shirt, Andres Zurru. Trousers, Lorezo Martinez. Sunglasses, Pablo Erroz. Watch, Michael Kors. Shoes, Premiata. GROOMING EMMA LÃ&#x201C;PEZ (@EMMALOPEZMAKEUP) RETOUCHER MARGARITA MEDVEDEVA (@RETQA. RETOUCHER) MODEL VICTOR CHITANU (@CHITANU)/UNO MODELS (@UNOMODELS)

On A High Note

It is as important to own your style as it is to know the best pieces you need to complete it.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALESSIO MATRICARDI STYLING MIRKO DE PROPRIS

Coat, shirt, pants, bag, belt, shoes, gloves, Dior. Hat, Borsalino.

Gilet, sweater, trousers, bag, Fendi. Shirt, Dior. Shoe, NÂ°21.

Coat, shirt, trousers, shoes, Versace. Hat, Borsalino. Accessories, Giuliana Mancinelli Bonafaccia.

Jacket, shirt, trousers, boots, Saint Laurent. Accessories, Alan Crocetti.

Jacket, sunglasses, Acne Studio. Gilet, trousers, bag, Dior. Shirt, Gucci. Shoes, Dolce&Gabbana. Hat, Radà. Stylist’s own necktie.

Gilet, shirt, trousers, shoes, Louis Vuitton. Accessory, Alan Crocetti. Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own necktie.

Blazer, sweater, pants, NÂ°21. Coat, Salvatore Ferragamo. Hat, RadĂ . Bag, Rosantica.

Suit, shirt, Burberry. Accessories, Alan Crocetti.

Jacket, shirt, trousers, boots, accessories, Givenchy. Necklace, earrings, Giuliana Mancinelli Bonafaccia.

Sweat vest, trousers, shoes, Prada. Earrings, Alan Crocetti. Bracelet, RadĂ . Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own gloves

Sweat vest, shirt, shirts, shoes, socks, ties, Jackie 1961 bag, Gucci. Earrings, Alan Crocetti. GROOMING COSIMO BELLOMO SET DESIGNER ALICE ARIANO STYLING ASSISTANTS MORGAN DILDAR, ELENA LUCA, MARTINA FERRETTI & ALESSANDRO ALLEGRA MODEL FEDERICO SPINAS/ELITE MODEL MILAN

Shearling Teddy patchwork jacket, cotton shirt, organic stretch denim jeans, croco leather belt, alpaca/wool felt fur hat, metal, chain bracelet, metal/leather bangle, jacquard grand ascot camouflage, calf leather Cole 45 boots

Beat, The Generation

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccerelloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Autumn 2020 collection has plenty to offer in the form of immaculately structured jacket with a battered pair of pants.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF SAINT LAURENT

Leather jacket, Crepe de Chine shirt, denim jeans, croco effect leather belt, metal chain bracelet, wool mesh scarf, calf leather James 60 chelsea boots

Felt caban jacket, cashmere hammered V-neck sweater, cotton shirt, velvet high waist jeans, metal chain bracelet, felt cap, calf leather Cole 45 boots

Flannel fitted jacket, herringbone twill shirt, cotton denim high waist jeans, croco effect leather belt, silk pouch, acetate/nylon sunglasses, jacquard scarf, metal/ resin bracelet, metal chain necklace, metal link chain bracelet, wool socks, leather Marceau 20 shoes

Wool trench coat, suede shirt, organic stretch denim jeans, acetate/nylon sunglasses, croco effect leather belt, wool mesh scarf, eel Cole 45 boots

Felt sand caban jacket, poplin shirt, metal/enamel hexagonal cufflinks, metal/enamel set of five shirt buttons, denim jeans, leather Cole 45 chelsea boots

Autumn Flex

Spice up your wardrobe with the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best accessories that worth copping on the double. BY NAWAF RAHMAN

GUCCI JACKIE 1961 BAG Meet the It bag of the moment. Tailored to modern times, Gucci has updated the classic silhouette of this iconic bag that was created in the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;50s for a timeless, statement accessory.

PRADA LEATHER BOOT In case you have yet to go through our Trend Report, leather welly is one of the must-have items this season. This proposal from Miuccia Prada is the perfect choice for anyone wanting to put the right fashion foot forward.

BURBERRY FACE MASK Burberry is the first luxury fashion house that makes staying safe look good. Sustainably produced from excess fabric from their cotton archival vintage check, this face mask is a stylish option to sync up with the rest of your wardrobe.

YSL BELT IN MATTE CROCODILE EMBOSSED LEATHER This is the ultimate belt from the brand that will automatically make you look cool. The subtle monogram detail does a good job of levelling up everything you wear it with, even if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just a simple white T-shirt and jean ensemble.

DIOR EARRING SILVER TONE BRASS WITH SHELL Those inspired by Harry Stylesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Met Gala look should wholeheartedly invest in this shell earring from Dior. Comes with silver tone brass, this piece is to be worn on one ear.

LOEWE KNIT HAT IN EMBROIDERED WOOL Beanie season is upon us but not all beanies are created equal. This embroidered knit hat from Loewe will make you both the coolest and coziest guy in the room.

Sunnei

Rochas

Off-White

Cool Self-Care Resolutions The Autumn/Winter 2020 runways saw the return of classic grooming trends for men with some daring looks that made themselves heard. Here, a closer look at the best styles direct from the runways. BY NAWAF RAHMAN

The wet look has been the preference of du jour for a few seasons now – and it’s going nowhere fast. The shiny, slicked strands were splashed across New York, London and Milan fashion weeks and the Paris runways were likewise soaked with ultra-smooth, gleaming hair. Wet comb-backs with glistening roots gave an undone appeal at Valentino and Sunnei, while taut, polished styles secured neatly gave a sleek, sculptural finish at Versace. Whether used to counteract haute couture, ethereal clothes, as seen at Loewe or playing into the general feel of sci-fi, à la Raf Simon, it’s efficiently cool and as long as there’s no hair hanging in your face – you’re now on trend. The only rule? More is more, so stock up on hair gel. 124

Raf Simons

Versace

WET STRANDS

Dior Men

Louis Vuitton

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy

Not one for day-to-day, perhaps, but for occasion wear – from festivals to red carpets– the catwalks served some jaw-dropping inspirations for facial adornments. Eye embellishment, in particular, had a moment, with cr e ati ve a n d im a ge dir e c to r of Christian Dior makeup, Peter Philips decorating the inner eye corners of the models at Dior Men with subtle silver studs, while models walked the Louis Vuitton runway wearing holographic masks. Elsewhere, at Kiko Kostadinov, metallic string adorned the model’s face while Virgil Abloh took it up a notch by putting face mask on the models to complete his collection. 125

Kiko Kostadinov

Astrid Anderson

FACE ACCESSORIES

Lanvin

Bottega Veneta

Gucci

Clear skin, full brows, can’t lose. Yep, you guessed it – flawless, pampered skin is firmly on the agenda for autumn/ winter runways (when is it not?). When the eyes and lips were pared back this season, skin was highly polished as evidenced by models that walked down most of the shows across the four cities such as Jacquemus, Berluti, Gucci and Bottega Veneta. At dunhill, make-up artist, Wendy Rowe focused on the skin prep with lots of hydrating products that meant she needed less make-up to achieve a beautiful glow. Proof that looking effortless fresh-faced is still the beauty (and wellness) holy grail. 126

dunhill

Hermès

BARELY-THERE

Wooyoungmi

Givenchy

Dries Van Noten

An imperative look this season, the pixie cut was seen on the runways from New York to Paris. Led by Prada, Fendi and Givenchy, the buzzwords here are texture and micro fridge, pulled together for a rebelliously relaxed and still statement-making mane. The great thing about this hairstyle is this is a versatile cut that can be styled differently for any occasion. Take the plunge and look to the retro icons like Mia Farrow for this but keep it modern with choppy layers to add volume. You also want to invest in a good pomade to keep it shiny and piece-y. 127

Alyx

Prada

FRINGE TIPS

Face Forces

We help you identify which skincare products you should consider adding to your daily routine to keep you looking fresh – so that you don’t have to. PHOTOGRAPHY ETCHEVERRY DAMIEN (@DAMIENETCHEVERRYPHOTOGRAPHE)

Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum

Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief

Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum

La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum

Clarins Double Serum Complete Age Control Concentrate

HOLY PORTIONS Face serums are like spices for the skin: they may be small and lightweight, but don’t underestimate their potency. With active ingredients that promise to lift, calm, brighten, hydrate and smooth, these highly concentrated formulas solve skin problems more effectively than just applying a moisturiser.

Sunday Riley Ice Ceramide Moisturizing Cream

La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Calming Gel Cream

Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream

Aesop Mandarin Facial Hydrating Cream

CRĂ&#x2C6;ME DE LA CRĂ&#x2C6;ME Hydration is key to healthy skin and this is why moisturisers are important. They seal, support and protect the top layers of the skin while perking it up, giving you a healthy glow, and at the same time, minimises the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as pigmentation.

Chanel LE LIFT Firming AntiWrinkle Flash Eye Revitalizer

Verso Reviving Eye Mask

Elemis Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Recovery Eye Mask

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Recovery Eye Mask

Shiseido Benefiance WrinkleResist24 Pure Retinol Express Smoothing Eye Mask

LET GO OF THE BAGGAGE An eye mask a day keeps dark circles, fine lines, dryness and puffiness at bay. Rather than concealing by layering on makeup, treat your tired eyes with some extra love with these miracle workers. After all, your delicate eye area certainly deserve extra TLC.

WORDS NAWAF RAHMAN HAIR ETCHEVERRY ANTHONY (@MONSIEUR_ANTHONY_PARIS) GROOMING CLAVERIE BENOIT (@CLAVERIEBENOIT) NAILS AÏSSI DELPHINE (@DELPHINEAISSI_YDALAGENCE) MODEL HENROTAY MAXIME (@HENROTAYMAXIME)/SELECT MODEL LONDON (@SELECTMODELLONDON)

Eau Thermale Avène Soothing Sheet Masque

SK-II Facial Treatment Mask

Guerlain Abeille Royale Honey Cataplasm Facial Mask

Dr Dennis Gross C Collagen Biocellulose Brightening Treatment Mask

Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mask

PUT ON A MASK The best sheet masks can do wonder for your skin. They plump and hydrate, brighten and smooth tired skin, shrink pores, all in the space of 20 minutes. Use them once or twice a week to leave skin looking instantly refreshed.

Photo Shutterstock

Fix Zit

Maskne is a real thing and here’s how to deal with it. BY NAWAF RAHMAN

I’m an advocate for wearing face masks as they are the best defence against COVID-19, alongside social distancing. But this new normal has brought with it an inevitable skin concern. You’ve probably heard the term “Maskne” – a random outbreak of pimples caused by wearing a mask. Coupled with humid weather and hot breath, it creates a hospitable environment for acne bacteria to overgrow. These pesky breakouts often occur along the jawline, or anywhere where the mask makes contact with the face skin, trapping bacteria and dirt within our pores.

avoid taking off and re-wearing the same mask for too long; make sure your mask fits well and try to avoid moving your mask around too much to minimise friction,” she says, adding, “When you remove your mask, make sure to put it back on with the same side facing outwards.” Dr Anna also points out that only wear the mask when you need – so getting on and off public transport and while you’re in highly congested areas. “As much as possible, try to avoid wearing your mask for too long, as it may have absorbed your sweat, make-up and dirt and bacteria,” she advises. “When contaminated, the microbes will grow into the weave of your mask fabric, and it will breed more acne,” she adds. It’s also super important to wash your cotton mask and make sure it’s completely dried after every use as it’s crucial to get rid of all the oil, grease, make-up and bacteria that tends to rub off on your mask and clog pores.

If you’re experiencing maskne or other related skin irritations, know that you’re not alone. While 2020 feels beyond repair, maskne doesn’t have to be on the list. Here’s the good news: there are steps you can take to minimise flare-ups and treat existing maskne, and at the same time, protect yourself wearing a face covering. We reached out to Dr Anna Hoo, the founder and CEO of Anna Hoo Clinic, an aesthetic group practice to learn about maskne, including – more importantly – how to treat and prevent it.

Good mask wearing habits and hygiene aside, you should also look after your general health too. “Acne, including maskne, is best dealt with from a wholesome perspective which includes staying hydrated by drinking lots of water, eating a balanced diet and exercising regularly,” Dr Anna says, adding that getting enough sleep is also important for the skin to rejuvenate.

What is Maskne? Technically, the clinical name for this kind of breakout is called acne mechanica. It may be new to the public but it’s a common term even before the pandemic especially among professions that have to wear PPE all day and athletes wearing helmets and chin guards, says Dr Anna.

Should I Change My Skincare Routine? Dr Anna warns us not to go overboard with trying out new skincare routines during this time as “too much experimenting will inevitably lead to skin irritation”. Instead, she recommends washing your face with gentle, hydrating cleansers if you don’t already and avoid heavily formulated products. It’s also important to moisturise regularly during this time. “The moisturiser does double duty here: besides moisturising the skin, it can protect it from mask friction,” she says. “Do take advantage of mask-free times of the day such as when you’re sleeping to apply a hydrating moisturiser. If you use retinol, you may apply it on an alternate night and hydrate your skin well.”

What Exactly Causes Maskne? Maskne is caused by the rubbing and friction on the surface of the skin due to mask wearing. “When the tiny hair follicles on our face become irritated from friction, which are further compounded with the moist and humid conditions as we breathe into our masks, our skin becomes a breeding ground for bacteria,” Dr Anna explains. In other words, not only does the friction lead to micro-tears in the skin and clogged pores, the mask’s closed or occlusive environment and the absence of oxygen stop our skin to function normally and encourage growth of bacteria that feast on the oil and dead kin in your pores. “This does not only make acne worse, but may also cause more severe conditions such as a reddish rash at the lower part of the face where your mask usually sits,” says Dr Anna. And there’s more. Warm, humid weather, perspiration and stress can upregulate all these effects.

She also encourages limiting the use of make-up while wearing masks. “Those who regularly apply foundation should consider going make-up free when wearing a mask, at least until the maskne clears up.” Dr Anna states that sunscreen is important, whether in the midst of a pandemic or not, saying, “Daily sunscreen is still essential even if half your face is covered with a mask, and don’t forget to moisturise your lips with a gentle balm or serum.” But if you’re experiencing persistent maskne that cannot be controlled with lifestyle adjustments and topical medication, you should consult a professional.

How Can I Prevent Maskne? Dr Anna suggests few steps to follow when wearing a face mask. “Practice good general mask-wearing habits such as 133

Catch You On The Sunny Side

Everyone is eagerly wondering when their next overseas vacation will be. While we wait until it’s safe to travel again, L’Officiel Hommes has scoured the globe and listed these exceptional stays for reboot that worth adding to your bucket list because more than ever, solitude is what travellers are looking forward to get away – properly. BY NAWAF RAHMAN

CAMP SARIKA BY AMANGIRI, UTAH, USA

in. Sarika delivers the glorious sense of seclusion that comes with pitching a tent in the middle of nowhere, plus the nightly bonfires, s’mores, storytelling, and acoustic guitar sessions you might expect with that. But the pavilions, each with a private plunge pool for sunset dips and telescopes for counting Saturn’s rings, not to mention the camp’s communal spa and restaurant and bar (plus access to all of Amangiri’s bells and whistles), make the experience more akin to a stay at an exclusive mini retreat than even the most elevated form of glamping, let alone camping. On-site activities like outdoor meditation, hiking, and rock climbing deep-sync guests with the landscape, and Lake Powell, as well as five national parks (including Bryce, Zion, and Grand Canyon), is an easy day trip. If space and privacy are indeed the new luxury, Sarika delivers it in spades – along with plenty of the old-fashioned kind.

Over the past three decades, high-end resort group Aman has perfected a formula at its 32 hotels across 20 countries – generous rooms, invisible service, and complete privacy – that is exactly what luxury travellers are looking for during these strange times. Its newest endeavour, in remote southern Utah, applies those principles to a new model: a year-round tented camp. Located down the juniper-and-wild-sage-scented road from Aman’s iconic Amangiri property and surrounded by 600 acres of high desert in the Colorado Basin, Camp Sarika consists of 10 one- and two-bedroom tented pavilions. Even when both properties reach full capacity (110 guests between them), there will be no shortage of striated slot canyons, 165-million-yearold sandstone formations, or flat-topped mesas to get lost 134

CHETZERON, CRANS-MONTANA

lamb. The first of the now 16 bedrooms came a few years later – as Lama explains: “Everything starts with the food; it had to be perfect before we opened the table.” The mountains are integral to the design: the concrete walls are bare of paintings, the towering porticos frame 25ft windows that flood the restaurant with a skyline of rocky peaks; solar and photovoltaic panels which provide hot water and electricity; and the bespoke potions in the bathroom, crafted with edelweiss, bottle the smell of the custom-made pine furniture. It’s about as ski-in, ski-out as you can get in winter, and in summer, four-wheel-drives bump up the empty pistes delivering digital detoxers, climbers, romantics and foodies for hiking and yoga weekends. Just getting to the front door is an experience.

Around 15 years ago, looking out of the window during a meeting about what to do with Crans-Montana’s decommissioned gondola station, Swiss-Labanese hotelier Sama Lamaa had the idea to turn it into a cracking hotel. He bought the derelict Sixties block on a spectacular 7,000ft-high mountain crest in the Swiss Alps and then sough feng-shui expertise froma sect of Taoist monks. Whatever they decreed appears to have worked; the soaring industrial building has been reimagined as a beautiful contemporary space. The restaurant was the earliest part to launch, upgrading regular ski-lunch stalwarts such as hot dogs and spaghetti Bolognese to lobster bagels and slow-cooked 135

TRUNK(HOUSE), TOKYO, JAPAN

people behind 15-bedroom Trunk(Hotel), Shibuya – one of Tokyo’s coolest boutique hotels – and is spread over two floors, with grey mortar walls, dark terrazzo floors, shoji screens and wood-panelled ceilings that nod to the traditional architecture. On the first floor is a bedroom, bathroom, lounge and tatami tea room, while below there’s a high-tech kitchen, dining room and landscaped mini-garden. There are even dedicated chefs, while an English-speaking butler is on call 24/7 to do everything from facilitating local tours and reservations at Michelinstarred restaurants, to whipping up cocktails or late-night noodles. This discreet urban retreat feels a world away from Shinjuku’s famous neon nightlife – but if that’s what you’re craving, simply pull back the soundproof doors on the ground floor to reveal Trunk(House)’s very own pocket nightclub, complete with illuminated floor, glitter-ball cocktails and karaoke machine. It’s history meets hedonism at Trunk(House) – a brilliant microcosm of Tokyo itself.

Trunk(House) isn’t the easiest place to find – but that’s as it should be. This discreet Design Hotels gem is secreted in cobbled ‘Hide and Seek Alley’ in Kagurazaka, a historic district of Shinjuku and one of the few places where elusive Tokyo geisha still flit in and out of traditional high-class restaurants known as ryotei. Trunk(House) itself has a deep connection with this vanishing world: not only is it located in a 70-yearold townhouse where geisha once trained (their old class schedule is still mounted on an original wall), but it is also now an address so exclusive that Kagurazaka geisha will accept a request to attend to sing, dance and play music for guests. Their performances are rare and are unusually intimate – because Trunk(House) is a highly private, exclusive-use property, which accommodates a maximum of just four guests. Immaculately restored and renovated, Trunk(House) was created by the 136

MANDARIN ORIENTAL LAKE COMO, ITALY

tutelary eye of southern Italian chef Vincenzo Guarino and the whole property’s decoration. Overseen by Milan-based American designer Eric Egan, the baroque decoration favoured by the previous owners has been toned down – today, the interior and rooms are refreshed with subtle Oriental charm (which is a nod to Mandarin’s heritage) while preserving as much as possible of the operatic neoclassical background (think those Chinese rooms that were all the rage in the 18th century, but reinvented for today). The historic Villa Roccabruna main building – with the reception, bar, lounge and lovely little basement spa – is the structure’s opulent core; rooms are spread across this and eight other villas on the long, shorehugging estate. Perhaps the most extraordinary thing about this hotel has to be the rooms that provide picture-postcard views of Lake Como, framed by tumbling bougainvillea.

Lake Como has always been the most luxe holiday destination and attracted celebrities for decades. A stay here is all about a bounty of culture with an unbelievably picturesque setting where it’s the sort of place you go when you want to be both lazy and luxurious at the same time. The Mandarin Oriental group’s first European country property delivers this spirit perfectly – it’s a renovation of one of the most historic buildings, Villa Roccabruna, a 19th-century opera singer’s home with immaculately tended lush gardens and an outdoor pool and sundeck that seem to float on the surface of the water. But at the same time, it puts a twist on the old-school formula by fusing an unequivocal dose of modernity with the estate’s neoclassicism with a classy mod-Med restaurant under the 137

ZANNIER HOTELS SONOP, NAMIB DESERT, NAMIBIA

and connected by curving boardwalks and stairs. The lodges are designed for a human being away from home and the worldly property contrasts well with the simplicity of the vast surroundings for you to unwind and appreciate the opulent view of the desert. Although the landscape of alien sand flats and rocky hills has the potential to overwhelm – not to mention the luminous cosmos arching overhead after dark – designer Geraldine Dohogne grounds the interiors with a forceful sense of civilisation: four-poster beds, clawfoot tubs, antique steamer trunks, the occasional pith helmet. There’s plenty to do – horseback safaris, game drives, electric biking with nature guides, or a hot-air-balloon breakfast safari – but that’s not really the point. The lodge is more about escaping into profound simplicity; an immensely sanctuary of silence and calm.

At 55 million years old, not only is the Namib the planet’s most oldest desert, but its enormity, dryness and extreme temperatures land it among the most forbidding places yet inviting on earth. Even its name, derived from the Nàmá language, means ‘an area where there is nothing’. Ominous, sure, but fret not this place is far from lifeless come 2020 now that Sonop, an impressively thoughtful luxury tented camp from inventive brand Zannier, has finally open its doors. Sonop, meaning sunrise in Afrikaans consists of a main lodge and 10 British colonial styled guest tents – all entirely solar-powered - that are set amid a 100ft-high pile of a boulder-strewn hill, 138

QUINTA DA COMPORTA, PORTUGAL

Comporta’s breezy, barefoot spirit. The luxury is low-key here; there’s no grand entrance and everything is purpose-fully neutral with beach-shack interior and the winding paths are set on a manicured landscape dotted with cacti. Rooms are refreshingly simple: white walls, sisal rugs on smooth concrete floors, wicker armchairs. Outside, a slimline 130ft pool is perfect for lengths and bicycles can be pedalled, via waterways, all the way to the beach, or you can spend your afternoons by the long, glass-sided pool. The focus is very much on appreciating nature. And it’s hard not to in this setting, surrounded by the vegetable garden and paddy fields. They also have their own-brand vegan Oryza Lab products that have a base note of rice, with pine, sandalwood and citrus to reflect the landscape.

Call it a sleepy town, but Comporta has long been where the fashionable European crowd goes off the grid, drawing weekenders from Lisbon, Paris and beyond to its sweep of rolling sand dunes, twisted cork tress, vibrant rice fields and rustic beachfront fish restaurants. Due to the strict preservation laws and stewardship, it used to feel impenetrable to anyone without an invite and until now there’s only ever been one hotel with any clout – Sublime Comporta. But now there’s a second. Designed by the Portuguese owner-achitect, who has spent his holiday here for more than 40 years, this property ticks all the right boxes for a relaxing retreat in upstate style and brilliantly in keeping with 139

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The New Wonder

The Chow Kit – an Ormond Hotel is where extravagance and simplicity, as well as tradition and modernity, exploration and relaxation collide. BY SYAZIL ABD RAHIM

Photos The Chow Kit

Touted as one of 52 Places to Go in 2020 by The New York Times, The Chow Kit – an Ormond Hotel, marrying old energy of the city with cosy comfort, is a traveller’s sanctuary that is not just for leisure but also for a unique exploration and artistic inspiration. A one-of-a-kind boutique hotel that it is, The Chow Kit is the first design-led, experience driven hotel that simplifies grandeur in its glitzy and old-Hollywood style seven-storey building and sits cheek-by-jowl with Kuala Lumpur’s golden triangle of entertainment and commerce capital, Bukit Bintang in the well-trodden street of Jalan Sultan Ismail. The new, simplified, luxury boutique concept foregrounds commendable service, design, and price ensures that guests get to experience while cosseted with the highest quality essentials alongside beautifully designed space.

as the public areas. The free spaces at The Chow Kit flawlessly blend the zestful, bold atmosphere of its location with the serenity desired from an upscale boutique hotel. The lobby is a reminiscent of the casual social parlor with grandiose ceiling heights and bespoke warm-glass chandeliers that bring a palatial feel to the space while the furnishings play within the idea of modern-classic in romantic colourway and are treated in detailed trims with references from the early 19th to mid20th century. Situated at the heart of the hotel is The Chow Kit Kitchen and Bar where people come together to participate in the most basic human function – to eat or simply to hang out while having a good time. Operating all-day, guests are welcome to dive into Chef Ell’s exquisite passed-downfrom-generations recipes, bringing back the authentic tastes of Malay cuisine, drawing from the north and south Malaysia. From the rich rojak-rojak bowl to the juicy satay set to the creamy daging salai masak lemak and zesty ikan asam pedas platters, all of its crowd-pleasing classics are made to celebrate the honest flavours of locally sourced produce, from local artisanal vendors and the nearby Chow Kit market. Exclusively from now until November 30, enjoy a dining credit that is equivalent to the room rate when you stay at Den, Twin Den or King Den.

Both the exterior and interior architecture of The Chow Kit are commissioned by Brooklyn-based design practice, Studio Tack. The design and feature concept take after the late-night folic that lingered in the shadows of Chow Kit’s alley’s and bars circa 1970s and 1980s. The boutique hotel boasts 86 rooms and 27 suites layered in the aesthetic and somewhat noir-ish moody colourway that is both discerning and sophisticated, from the polished timber floor to the bed frame in mahogany to the white plushy linen. Putting art as a talking point, guests will also find curated art pieces that were individually selected and tailored by visionaries in Malaysia and Southeast Asia making up the walls and as articles in the guestrooms as well

Visit www.thechowkit.com or call +603 2778 6666 for inquiries. 141

The Future Is Here

Every year, the automotive world gives us a glimpse of future mobility and what it will look like by revealing cool concept cars. Buckle up as we present you the top five models that excite us the most. BY NAWAF RAHMAN

MERCEDES-BENZ VISION AVTR Presenting the concept of “mobility in the distant future”, Mercedes-Benz takes cue from another world when designing its all-electric concept car, namely Vision AVTR (abbreviation for Advanced Vehicle Transformation). The show car is inspired by the James Cameron’s 2009 mega-successful film Avatar and created in partnership with a team that worked on the movie to showcase the German automaker’s design and tech capabilities. Aimed to connect human, machine and nature in an unprecedented way, Mercedes-Benz describes the car as a “living creature” that can interact with passengers as well as the outside world. Most notably, the vehicle features 33 “bionic flaps” on the rear designed to connect through flowing movements in subtle gestures like some amphibians. Inside, it features a completely new way for passengers to interact with the vehicle, which can be operated with hand gestures and biometrics, is able to recognise the driver’s heartbeat and breathing. With its stretched “One Bow” design and organic design language, the Vision AVTR offers a visionary outlook on the design of the future.

NISSAN ARIYA CONCEPT ELECTRIC SUV Designed as a vision of Nissan’s electrified future and future of mobility, the Ariya concept car represents the company’s forward-thinking direction to produce more confident, more exciting and more connected driving experience. Boasting minimalist and state-of-the-art design, Ariya will incorporate Nissan’s all-new semi-autonomous driving system called ProPilot 2.0 where you can combine navigated driving on the highway with hands-off single-lane driving capabilities which allow drivers to remove their hands from the wheel in certain situations. As you would expect, technology features will be cutting edge. It will include what the manufacturer called door-to-door navigation, a feature that enables drivers to simply change directions on their smartphones to the vehicle’s infotainment display. Other outstanding highlights include the Ariya Concept’s ability to sync together with your schedule. For instance, you’ll be able to pre-heat or pre-cool your vehicle’s interior while you’re on your way to it. You’ll also be able to use your smartphone to park the Ariya Concept automatically through ProPilot’s Remote Park feature. 142

AUDI AI:ME Made to be a fully autonomous car that goes beyond navigating the roads, Audi’s latest concept car, AI:ME allows the German brand to explore with the idea of how we can interact with a vehicle when we’re no longer charged with the responsibility of driving it all the time. The “emphatic car” is equipped with artificial intelligence which learns its user’s preferences and can intuit their possible needs and desires over time. At its most basic form, that can mean things like understanding the sort of temperature, interior lighting, and common routes the driver prefers. Beyond that, though, a combination of autonomous driving and personalisation can make each of them more effective. AI:ME could proactively suggest ordering food from a restaurant it has learned is your favourite, and since you don’t have to focus on the road you could spend your time choosing your desired meal via the widescreen dashboard display. It’s fully electric and designed either to drive or be driven depending on your mood.

SONY VISION-S Sony surprises the motoring world by unveiling its biggest gadget to date: an all-electric concept car called the Vision S. As the brainchild of an entertainment technology giant, the Tesla-like vehicle, according to Sony, is meant to showcase the company’s new sensor, audio and peripheral in-car entertainment technologies. The main highlights are the sensors: 33 of them that monitor the external and internal environment. These sensors allow the car to offer Level 2+ autonomous driving systems, as well as monitoring the driver’s attention and providing customised infotainment. Apart from self-parking, advanced cruise control and autolane change functions, the silver model also features a panoramic sun roof, what appears to be carbon ceramic brakes, a plush interior and an ultra-wide monitor can be used for entertainment and information purposes, linked up to the company’s 360 reality audio, which provides immersive audio via speakers built into each seat. The Vision-S is, essentially, a movie theatre on wheels.

POLESTAR PRECEPT Polestar’s latest electric saloon concept, Precept showcases a design language of its own and is intended to set the brand on its own trajectory. Low, aerodynamic and spacious enough for four, it blends elements of automotive design with new styling cues enabled by its electric drivetrain and a greener future. Redefining the meaning of future cars, Polestar is keen to highlight the use of sustainable material in the Precept. The vegan interior builds on that of the Polestar 2 with high levels of recycled content. Light, strong flax-based natural composites developed by Bcomp reduce typical plastic usage by 80%. Recycled plastic bottles are used for the headlining, the carpets use nylon from reclaimed fishing nets and recycled cork from the wine industry is employed for seat bolsters and headrests. The Precept also features advanced autonomous functions via a roof-mounted lidar pod and marks the debut of a 15-inch infotainment screen that uses the latest Android, OS and Google Assistant features. 143

Art Speaks

An expression in its most genuine form, these thought-provoking works portray the world turned upside down by the coronavirus crisis. BY NIKITA NAWAWI

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JILLY BALLISTIC @JILLYBALLISTIC If you’ve ever lived the life of a New York City straphanger, chances are you’ve already stumbled upon some of Jilly Ballistic’s eerie historical images of World War II soldiers and civilians in gas masks. The subway artist describes these black-and-white wheatpaste figures as “modern protest work” as she’s of the opinion that words and images are the two best mediums to reflect what is currently happening in the society.

doesn’t have the energy it is known for having. It’s somber, with the occasional glimmer of hope. What do you think about the handling of this pandemic and its effect on the people? The State of New York is doing its best to handle the pandemic without any Federal help. Individual states are left to fend for themselves, which is leading to more suffering, confusion and instability. We aren’t unified as a country and that’s going to take a toll on our citizens. Art will reflect this and art around the globe will record what is happening for the history books.

Tell me about the artwork that you’ve been doing. It changes day to day as the situation with the pandemic changes. I’d comment on things like the absurdity of reopening the country while death toll continues to rise or I’d use a historical image that reflects our current situation; this is to show how little has changed for us. We’re repeating the same mistakes.

What does your daily routine entail now? I’m entering my second month of quarantine, which entails me living alone and producing artwork that I apply to walls on the street or within the subway system. I do have a full-time job that I’m able to work remotely from; I try to find a good balance between these two areas of my life. It keeps me going.

How are things going? New York City has become a completely different world. Subways are mostly empty and the streets are bare. It certainly 145

DUYI HAN @DUYI.HAN collaborators and I were still deciding on the final location. We figured that we might use either the church that’s no longer in use today and not a registered heritage building, or an interior space that’s separate from the church.

The recent outbreak is devastating on a worldwide scale but it hits especially close to home for Duyi Han. Making headlines for his mural at a historic church in China’s Hubei province, Duyi’s journey to the region where the virus originated is deeply personal as it’s also where his grandparents reside. The Doesn’t Come Out creative director was travelling back and forth between New York and Los Angeles for work when China was first swept by the pandemic.

Where are you self-isolating at? I am now in Shanghai and free to move around in China after my 14-day hotel quarantine. Having travelled to China from the United States, I witnessed directly the shocking difference in the level of precautionary and safety measures between the two countries.

How are your grandparents holding up? They are doing fine. I was worried about them when the outbreak was severe earlier in the year. People in the city were very nervous during the crisis. But basic food and supplies were available at their door, at least in the neighborhood my grandparents live in. So they were able to stay home without much difficulty.

How has the lockdown affected you personally and the people around you? It’s just that I have to adjust my short-term and long-term life plans accordingly. There are lots of phone and video calls. Lots of recipe sharing. But on the bright side, I have plenty of ideas for future artworks. The situation is getting better in China, so I hope the world will recover soon too.

Tell me about the mural. Was selecting a church a conscious choice on your part? I was already aware of the local architecture although my 146

TV BOY @TVBOY Italian artist TV Boy believes that art should mirror the times that we’re living in. So when he heard about a spike in coronavirus cases in Barcelona, a city where he’s based in since 2004, he rolled up his sleeves and got to work. Through his artwork, TV Boy captured the severity of the circumstances with a touch of triviality that casts the world in a more positive light. Love in the Time of Coronavirus, for example, is a bittersweet note on how love can survive the pandemic.

with “I Want You” slogan because I want people to stay home. I also use the phrase “united we stand, divided we fall” in reverse because I want people to avoid close contact with strangers to protect themselves as well as the frontliners. Which of your artworks are you most proud of? The first one is always the best. So for that, I think Mobile World Virus with the Mona Lisa with a mask and smartphone would be a solid pick. But I also like Love in the Time of Coronavirus that’s inspired by a Francesco Hayez piece of work because it is both poetic and romantic.

At what point did the gravity of the situation hit you? It started with the cancellation of the Mobile World Congress. The virus was supposedly still contained in China, but the decision to call off the fair prompted me to come up with Mobile World Virus featuring the Mona Lisa. It made me think about how technology could be both of help and a kind of virus in itself too.

What is it like being a street artist when there’s no one on the street? Street art can also be found on digital platforms because whatever it is on the wall could realistically be erased. So, the Internet and online channels like Instagram give us artists the platform to share our work. It is a way of allowing the artwork to live a little longer.

Tell me about some of the famous references in your artworks. I just bring it back to reality. I reimagined the Uncle Sam poster 147

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L'Officiel Hommes Malaysia Fall/Winter 20-21

Articles inside

The Future Is Here

Art Speaks

The New Wonder

Catch You On The Sunny Side

Fix Zit

Beat, The Generation

Turn Back Time

Downtown Cool

Autumn Flex

Face Forces

Life – Celebrated