Low Season Traveller - Issue 2 by Low Season Traveller

TRAVELLER LOW S E A SON

Issue 2 August-September 2022

M AGA Z INE

SRI LANKA’S GREAT RESET:

A LOCAL GUIDE ON AFRICA:

The chance turn an economic crisis into climate-forward businessoppurtunity

Finding the low season all year around in Africa

THE WORLD IN BLOOM When and where to see to see nature’s finest displays of wildflowers

GOING LOCAL It’s easier than you’d think

FEATURED DESTINATIONS:

RIO OMAN SRI LANKA SEVILLE MELBOURNE AND MUCH MORE..

Editor’s note

Don’t get stuck in the crowds this summer International travel is finally getting its groove back. With more people travelling and more places open for business following a couple of devastating years for the industry all over the world, we’re seeing things really pick up! Places that have had long border closures or tricky quarantine or testing rules are slowing lifting more and more restrictions, allowing us all to travel again with ease! As someone who lived in Melbourne throughout a collective 262 days in six separate lockdowns throughout the pandemic (the most days in lockdown anywhere in the world), there were times when it felt like we’d never get to travel overseas again. Finally, in 2022 it no longer feels like the light is ‘at the end of the tunnel’, but instead shining down on us with full force – and boy does that feel good! In the last couple of months, I’ve moved across the world to France, and have been lucky enough to visit beautiful places including Paris, Lyon and the French islands of Guadeloupe (the picture above is a gorgeous view from Deshaies in Basse Terre, Guadeloupe). It feels like a lifetime since I’ve last been able to have such rich experiences – and I’m reminded once again that travel is what I live for!

Low Season Traveller

But enough about me, and more about issue two of Low Season Traveller Magazine!

For those living in the northern hemisphere, summer is here! It’s usually a time when many of us can take time to go on holiday. But when everyone else has the same idea, it feels like EVERYWHERE is absolutely heaving with people. That’s why we’ve chosen five fantastic destinations which will surprisingly be having their low season during July, August and/ or September; Melbourne (Australia), Oman, Rio De Janeiro (Brazil), Seville (Spain) and Sri Lanka.

We also speak with Pan-African safari guide Warren Pearson about what it’s like to guide people through some of the most epic national parks and conservation areas in the world, and die-hard foodie and LST team member Kate Burgess takes us on a food lover’s dream through the best places to eat in San Francisco in the USA.

Our CEO, Ged Brown has also been busy on the road over the last few months and he’ll fill you in on some exciting updates on Low Season Traveller and what’s in the pipeline. Our fantastic Editor-at-Large Lisa TE Sonne gives us the low down on how to really travel local when you’re away. Finally, I’d like to say a big thank you to you, our community who submitted your low season travel stories which will be featured in future editions of the magazine. Keep ‘em coming! Rachel Jacgung Editor-in-Chief Editor@lowseasontraveller.com

Contribute to Low Season Traveller Magazine We’re looking to grow our team of amazing contributors that are sharing their top tips and best bits of low season travel in LST Magazine. If you’re an avid writer, traveller and are passionate about sustainable travel and combating the issue of over tourism, we’d love to hear from you! Get in touch at editor@lowseasontraveller.com

Meet the team Featured and Destinations contributors

? n e p p a h t i Who made Publishing

Contributors

This edition’s guest stars

Ged Brown

Claire French

Warren Pearson

Claire has crossed the globe, living and working on 6 continents. She’s now working on Low Season Traveller feature pieces and dreaming of her next adventure from her narrow boat home on a quiet stretch of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, where it seems to be permanently low season.

Warren is a pan-African safari guide whose work experience extends from guiding to managing lodges, remote luxury bush camps, mineral exploration camps as well as working in disaster management and training. He has explored areas such as the Eastern Congo, Chad, Rwanda and many other regions in Africa. Warren has also spent time working for Animal Planet as well as National Geographic on different projects through Southern Africa.

Ged is the founder and CEO of Low Season Traveller; the world’s first organisation completely dedicated to the promotion of travel during the offpeak seasons in each destination as a way to alleviate the growing problem of over-tourism. A passionate advocate of the advantages of tourism, Ged has spent his entire career working with leading travel and tourism organisations.

Rachel Jacgung Editor-in-Chief

Rachel is an experienced writer and strategic communications professional with a master’s degree in International Sustainable Tourism. Joining Low Season Traveller as Editor of our quarterly magazine, Rachel hopes to inspire travellers to experience some of the world’s best destinations and places to eat, stay and play, while educating readers on why the low season is the best time to experience them.

Lisa TE Sonne Editor-at-Large

An award-winning writer who explored seven continents, dove many seas, and wrote for airline, Time-Life, and National Geographic media. Her books include “My Adventures” and “The Great Outdoors” for Quarto Publishers. Wrote for Oscar-winning and Emmy-winning projects. Co-founderCharityChecks.org; member of Space.com’s launch team and The Explorers Club.

Tony Hallwood

Business Development Director

Tony’s career has covered senior director roles for major travel companies including SAGA, Cosmos, Airtours and My Travel. Tony’s strengths are building strong partnerships with airlines, tour operators and national tourism partners alongside maximising his extensive PR and media experience to promote a wide range of new destinations, routes and services.

Kate Burgess Kate is a passionate traveller and ex-San Francisco resident. Her love of travel and food are intertwined with no trip being complete without filling her stomach up to the point of bursting. As a tourism marketing professional Kate knows how to avoid the tourist traps and discover the mouth-watering authentic meals of a city.

Chris Flynn

Chris is a member of the LST Advisory Board and is also the Founder & Executive Chairman of The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage. With more than 30 years’ experience in international tourism, Chris is a regular speaker at high profile international events and provides insights to leading news media channels such as BBC World News Asia Business Report.

Victor Dorff

Victor has written trivia books for Sterling Publications and Fall River Press on a range of topics and destinations, from New Orleans to the history of the British Royals. He travels wherever and whenever he can, usually on the lookout for the strange and quirky (as well as something to eat). He worked as a writer/ producer for ABC News in New York, and has written for the Los Angeles Times, The Washington Post, and a variety of travel media.

Advertising: Get in touch with Tony Hallwood at: Tony@lowseasontraveller.com

Nikki Morrison Nikki Morrison is a former BBC Journalist who will be setting off to explore the world’s low seasons for Low Season Traveller. She has a one way ticket booked for Bangkok in August. We are looking for partners to work with Nikki during her journey. If you’d like to offer help in return for featuring on Low Season Traveller’s many platforms, please get in touch.

Bec O’Loughlin Bec is an avid traveller from Melbourne who is always looking for her next adventure. Bec holds a Masters in International Development and is passionate about sustainable, ethical and affordable tourism. Her favourite thing about travel is experiencing different cultures and meeting new people.

Lea Loemueller Lea is a 23-year-old sustainable tourism student from Germany, currently living in Albania for her internship. Her passions are travelling, especially on horseback, but also other sports like hiking and yoga. Because she loves being outdoors and connected with nature, Lea’s vision is to change tourism for the good of nature and with that, for humanity.

Design Chris McNicholl

Owner of Overflowcreative.com

Low Season Traveller

Publisher and CEO at Low Season Traveller

Contents Scotland Yorkshire, UK Montana, USA Portugal

Colorado, USA

Seville

San Francisco, USA

Featured destination Low season journey Food focus

Low Season Traveller

Podcast

Cultural heritage The low down Reader’s stories Niche within a niche

Girona, Spain

Brazil Rio de Janero

Editor’s note...................................................................................01

Our low season adventure....................................................43

Contributors................................................................................02

Top 10 best stays.........................................................................47

Contents......................................................................................... 03

Food focus: San Francisco......................................................51

LST Update with Ged...............................................................05

5 of the best podcasts...............................................................53

Featured destination: Rio........................................................07

Featured destination: Seville.................................................55

Interview with a local guide................................................15

The low down: How to go local............................................59

Featured destination: Oman.................................................19

Featured destination: Melbourne.......................................61

5 cultural heritage icons............................................................25

Reader’s stories............................................................................67

Featured destination: Sri Lanka..........................................31

Really? The Low Season Travel quiz...................................71

Niche within a niche: Wildflowers......................................39

Poland

Albania Israel

Zhejang Province, China Thailand

Oman

Thailand

Sri Lanka

Africa Kimberley’s, Western Australia Geraldton, Western Australia

Melbourne

Sydney Australia

Low Season Traveller

Fremantle,Western Australia

4 Quiz answers: 1- Oman, 2- Dubai, 3- Rio de Janeiro, 4- Sri Lanka, 5- Portugal, 6- Melbourne, 7- Seville, 8- Pagosa Springs, Colorado

Ged’s update

Update Ged Copacabana beach, Rio

from

Low Season Traveller

Well what an interesting start to the main holiday season it has been here in the UK. At the time of writing, it is the end of June and already we have started to see reports of socalled over-tourism coming from parts of Europe. Venice has announced its new tourist tax with hefty fines for those not paying it and destinations like Greece (and Rhodes in particular) are al ready talking more about spreading the economic benefit (and burden) of tourism more evenly throughout the year.

Our airports have seen chaotic scenes over recent weeks and there is a feeling that these scenes will be replicated as we enter the traditional summer holiday period. The airlines had ramped up their flights for the summer but upon realising that the airports were clearly unable to cope with 2019 flight levels, have subsequently had to reduce their flight schedules causing frustration and chaos. These problems are not unique to the UK. It’s being replicated all over the world. Large numbers of redundancies

were made during the past two years in the aviation, tourism and hospitality sectors as companies sought to shore up their outgoing expenses in light of the global tourism industry entering a form of hibernation due to covid. Sadly, as a result, many of those made redundant have left the industry and this has created a huge staff shortage in many areas. So, this summer there will be scenes of chaos and crowding at airports all over the world as flights are cancelled, baggage stacks up and of course prices increase due to fewer flights. The war in Ukraine has led to fuel rises which are unparalleled in recent memory. Whilst we are seeing the effects of this at the fuel pumps and in our energy bills, the full force of these cost increases has yet to really show itself in aviation. But it is coming. Airlines tend to “hedge” on fuel up to a year in advance in order to protect themselves from any major price fluctuations. This means that most

Ged’s update airlines hedged in 2021 before the massive increases in oil prices came into effect. I predict that flight prices in 2023 onwards are about to increase significantly and of course, the airlines will be hedging at much higher rates this year for 2023 onwards too. And this is not a bad thing. I always felt that the value in a 1,200 mile flight from Manchester to Rome was significantly more than the fare of £15 charged by certain low fare airlines. Those prices in no way reflected the carbon emissions not indeed the value of such a trip. I always thought that one day in the future our grandchildren will be unforgiving when they ask us, against a backdrop of environmental catastrophe, “did you not figure that it was wrong when you could fly 1,200 miles to Rome for less than the cost of a pizza?”. It was and is wrong.

There are two main ways of getting from São Paulo to Rio. Flying takes less than 2 hours and costs about £450 return. Very time efficient if like me you only have 2 full days in Rio but…we know that these short flights are not the best environmentally. This is especially true when there is a good alternative - buses. The bus journey from São Paulo to Rio takes just under 6 hours and costs £10 return or, if like me you want to push the boat out, £16 for “Business Class”. The buses are frequent, run from city centre to city centre, are super comfortable with good wifi, charging points, air con, cool stops along the way and you are surrounded by locals. Despite being in both São Paulo and Rio bus stations late at night, I never felt threatened. The whole experience was really quite wonderful.

Two Days in Rio I attended a major travel industry event in São Paulo recently. It was my first time in a while having the opportunity to meet face to face with industry colleagues and it was also my first time in São Paulo. These events are incredibly valuable as I get to have 60+ pre-arranged meetings in 3 days in one place. It’s highly time efficient. As were are to be featuring Rio in this edition of the magazine and also on lowseasontraveller.com, I wanted to take the opportunity to visit Rio during the low season period to understand for myself what the low season experience is like in this famed city. Copacabana beach, Rio As for Rio itself, well, she is one beautiful city! I have a natural love of cities which have a beach. I love Brisbane, Valencia, Cape Town etc and Rio is one of the most picturesque cities you could ever hope to see. Picture endless stretches of glorious white sandy beaches against a backdrop of towering steep green mountains. I spent a fun 2 days in Rio and learnt a lot about what you should and shouldn’t do during a low season stay in the city. You can find out more about the experience in our Rio feature and in our podcast and live broadcasts from Rio where we caught up with some locals to get their advice. But it is nearly time for my small family to take our break. We are heading over to North Wales in August as, even the most die hard of low season travellers like me, sometimes has to travel in the kids summer holidays. Yes, we’ll have to roll the dice with the UK weather but at least we won’t have to face the airport chaos I guess.

Ged recording the Rio podcast, Copacabana Beach, Rio

Founder and CEO, Low Season Traveller

Low Season Traveller

Wishing you a wonderful summer (or winter depending on your location) and looking forward to catching up again in October.

Featured Destination: Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro A sultry fusion of green mountains, blue skies and golden sand

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: Mid April to November

Featured Destination: Rio de Janeiro By Claire French

Mystical cone-shaped mounts surround the azure lagoons and sandy beaches of Guanabara Bay. The city centre is filled with stunning Portuguese colonial and modernist Brazilian architecture, world renowned landmarks and the largest urban forest on the planet. It’s a site of breath-taking natural loveliness and that’s before you even consider the sleek bronzed bodies of the beauties who line the Ipanema and Copacabana shores each day. A hugely popular destination, Rio enjoys its most hectic party vibe during huge New Year celebrations and the famed carnival, held annually just prior to Lent. This period

coincides with the tropical South American summer, meaning soaring temperatures and packed beaches as sunseekers hit the water to escape high humidity. A low season option though is to get the party season and Easter holidays out of the way, and take your Rio break from mid-April to November. At this time the humidity breaks and you can expect clear blue skies and more pleasant temperatures of around 20 to 25°C. It’s the perfect time for exploring the city’s culture, hiking the iconic hills, or grabbing an outdoor table at a favourite restaurant, while remaining warm enough for beach days and watersports. Iconic landmarks Rio’s legendary hotspots are best explored under cloudless low season skies when crowds are fewest and the views at their most brilliant. Explore the distinctive Sugar Loaf Mountain and its thrilling cable car; reach the towering Art Deco statue of Christ The Redeemer; or get your perfect profile pic at the Insta-famed Pedra do Telegrafo, the illusionary cliff edge monolith for wannabe adrenaline junkies. In fact, during the high season summer, visitors often find these iconic features to be surrounded by disappointing haze and views full of cloud.

Low Season Traveller

There’s no denying that Rio is special. You can feel it in the throb of the samba beat. You can savour it in the sour sweetness of a late afternoon caipirinha. And if you’re still not buying it at the end of another sun-soaked day, ask the good folks at UNESCO. The World Heritage office found Brazil’s second city so exceptional that, in 2017, they designed a whole new category to encompass the unique combination of natural phenomena and man-made wonders united within one extraordinary urban landscape.

Featured Destination: Rio de Janeiro the calm waters of the Bay. Explore Fiscal Island just off the coast and its wonderful Gothic Revival palace before a spectacular sunset as the sun lowers over Corcovado Hill. Bike the beaches There are plenty of places to rent a bicycle and hundreds of miles of cycle paths throughout the city. A favourite route is the beachfront path taking in the Copacabana, Ipanema, Leme and Leblon beaches and the Botanical Garden with one of the best collections of plants in the world.

Rio cycling Outdoor living Al fresco adventuring is part of the Carioca way of life. Rio has a staggering 400km of bike tracks and when cooler it’s one of the best ways to see the city, either on a tour or using the bike share service. Hike to stunning waterfalls and caves inside Tijuca National Park, home to ocelots, howler monkeys, and more than 300 species of birds. Hang gliding off the steeply rising mountains which link the land to the ocean is a very popular pastime for both an adrenaline rush and the most amazing vistas. Feeling less active? Tour the city in an open top jeep, stroll round the beautiful Botanical Gardens, or wander through the colonial heritage of Rio’s downtown. Golden shores World renowned beaches like Ipanema, Leblon and Copacabana are equally adored by tourists and residents. The coolest months of July and August might see fewer sunbathers, but activities like volley ball and watersports continue through low season. Don’t stop there though, some of the beaches and islands in outer Rio are absolutely stunning and a great way to escape the crowds and return to a more tropical feeling. Check out the wilder beaches of Prainha which has a more secluded location, and Grumari for skinny dipping and nude sunbathing if that’s your thing.

Low Season Traveller

TOP EXPERIENCES

Downtown and Santa Teresa Enjoy low season exploration in Rio’s cultural centre, taking cool contemplation among the beautiful stained glass of the cathedral; checking out the colourful mosaic Selaron Steps and the spectacular Museo do Amanha; or the colonial buildings and street art in winding alleys of Santa Teresa. Guanabara Bay by Sailboat See Sugar Loaf, Christ the Redeemer, historic forts and landmark architecture from a different angle while enjoying

Território Aprazivel

FOOD AND DRINK Território Aprazivel, Rua Aprazivel 62, Santa Teresa Overlooking the charming neighbourhood of Santa Teresa, this atmospheric place has beautiful views and typical Brazilian dishes made with imagination and affection. Try feijoada, the most typical dish of the city, a black bean stew cooked with pork. Assador, Avenida infante don Henrique, s/n. Flamengo This well-known barbecue house or churrascaria overlooks the bay and boasts a bright interior with huge windows. It’s a premium, all you can eat, restaurant offering an endless meat feast, prepared and served in a tradition that dates back 300 years. Masserini Osteria di Mare, Av. Vieira Souto 320 On the first floor of the Sol Ipanema Hotel, this venue serves contemporary Italian cuisine in a cosy yet elegant atmosphere. Super fresh ingredients are on the menu with a focus on sea food. Tables overlook Ipanema Beach and the sparkling sea beyond. Christo Rendentor (Right) Guanabara Bay (page over)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Rio de Janeiro

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Rio de Janerio

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Rio de Janerio

Featured Destination: Destinations Rio de Janeiro

Colonial Rio

Tijuca National Park

Santa Teresa

Low Season Traveller

Rio Cathedral

Selaron Steps

Hangliding Rio

Featured Destination: Rio de Janeiro

INSIDER TIPS •

Take advantage of the cooler weather when visiting Sugarloaf Mountain. It’s possible to hike to the top of the first hill Morro da Urca on a beautiful trail through tropical forest, then take the cable car to the iconic second hill. It takes 30 minutes and is well worth the effort.

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For a different sunset spot try the city of Niteroi across the Bay. There are amazing beaches and the famous Niemeyer Way. The Parque da Cidade features a hang glider ramp where locals often sit to see tremendous views of a sunset looking back over the Bay and Rio’s skyline.

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A common error is to try and cram too much in to your Rio visit. The best way to get into the vibe is to take time to chill on the beach, stroll, and people watch while absorbing the energy of the city. Rio has a rep for crime but statistically is just as tourist friendly and safe as any big city.

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Enjoy carnival even during low season at a behind the scenes carnival museum showing how the world-famous event is created, including some of the massive floats and magnificent costumes used in the parade. Or visit Lapa’s samba clubs boasting the best musicians in town.

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The city has several handicraft fairs. The popular Lavradio Fair, in buzzing Lapa takes place on the first Saturday of each month where Cariocas go to buy cool clothes, antiques, craftwork, and vinyl records, and enjoy live music. Or check out the hippie fair in Ipanema on Sundays.

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Try local delicacies. Snack food or ‘salgadinho’ includes ‘coxinha’ fried dough stuffed with chicken and ‘bolinho de bacalhau’ a fried potato and cod ball. Caipirinha, the national drink, is lime, sugar and cachaça, a sugar cane spirit, sometimes with seasonal fruits like passion fruit.

LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

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GOOD TO KNOW

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Interview with a local guide: Africa with Warren Pearson

Africa’s guide a c i fr A n o n o s r Warren Pea Our Editor Rachel chatted with Pan-African safari guide Warren about his experience as a guide across all corners of Africa – and why there’s no bad time to visit! By Rachel Jacgung

I started off as an onsite safari guide 24 years ago in the western side of Kruger National Park. I was fortunate to work for a safari company that had lodges it managed all over Africa, so I was lucky enough to be able to request different lodges to work at. This is how I saw and experienced different parts of Africa. After a while I wanted to do something different and I had some clients who wanted to come back to Africa and asked me to guide them. So I started putting together private safaris, which is what I do now. I’m always trying to find new places where people haven’t heard of or are quite apprehensive to visit – places that are away from the crowds. Where in Africa do you take safaris? I’m what you would call a Pan-African guide. I will go anywhere I can convince clients to go – and I’m always looking for new places. I’ll go anywhere in Africa where there is wildlife and culture to be discovered and immersed in. For example, I’ve just come back from Chad. Most people, even South Africans, aren’t sure why Chad would be a good The Sentinal, Dead Vlai, Namibia (left)

idea. But there is an incredible national park there called Zakouma which has been managed extremely well by a nongovernment organisation over the last 12 years and is seen as the ‘Golden Child’ of what can happen when conservation and tourism is done well. How has COVID-19 impacted tourism in Africa and what is the recovery like? COVID decimated tourism in Africa. Billions of dollars usually brought in by tourism were lost. I think there were about 500,000 jobs in tourism lost just in South Africa alone. There are a lot of small companies that now no longer exist. All of this makes you realise how fickle the industry can be. BUT there’s a turnaround. 2022 is looking incredibly good and we’ve got international flights coming in every day. The biggest help has been getting rid of the PCR tests. Having to test every time you come into a country or region means there are too many variables involved in travelling and people are wary of this. Without the PCR tests and waiting sometimes days for results it makes things a lot easier. What is the most common misconception people have about travelling in Africa? There are quite a lot of misconceptions! I think the first that comes to mind is that people think that Africa is a country, and that it’s small. But it’s the second largest continent in the world made up of 54 countries. If you take China, India, USA and most of Europe combined, Africa is still bigger. The other thing is people think Africa is a big dark place full of disease and poverty. But there are so many good things happening in Africa that the world doesn’t get to see in the

Low Season Traveller

Tell us a bit about how you became an African tour guide and what you do. Growing up my grandfather was an avid birder and I used to accompany him to the Kruger National Park whenever he went out on his trips. I have always wanted to be in nature and around animals.

Featured Podcasts Interview with a local guide: Africa with Warren Pearson

Camp Nomad, Zakouma National Park, Chad news. Good news doesn’t sell, so we always only see the negative coming out of Africa and not the MANY positive things. People often come for the wildlife, but they end up leaving loving the people the most and wanting to get to know them more. Another thing is that people think it’s always hot, but there are so many climates and conditions across the continent – for example it’s winter here in Cape Town right now, so I am layered up with a scarf as it’s a bit chilly outside. Is there a low season? If you look at Africa as a whole, there is no low season. There is no bad time to come. However, you need to look at specific countries or regions, such as South Africa, our low season is during the winter in Cape Town, but in the rest of the country, the winter is the high season.

Low Season Traveller

You can travel at any time of the year and find a low season in Africa.

What is the best place in Africa to go to that no one knows about and why? Some of the best places are the best because they are not known. It’s a catch 22 because you want people to see these places but you also don’t want the secret to get out! I’d probably have to say Zakouma National Park in Chad, as I mentioned earlier. Only a small select group of people have been there. It’s a difficult place to get to – you’re in 45-degree heat with no fans or air-conditioning but it’s incredible because there are layers upon layers of birdlife and mammals

and other wildlife. For me it’s one of the best wilderness experiences you’ll have. How can travellers ensure they are making ethical choices when travelling in Africa? Make sure you go with an expert – someone with years of experience and who has lived and travelled in Africa. Usually, word of mouth is a good way of finding a good guide. It also comes down to common sense – there are lots of conservation charities out there but it comes down to getting in contact with an expert directly and asking them the hard questions. If something doesn’t sound right to you, it’s probably not - go with your gut. Things like elephant riding or experiences where one can pet lion cubs, these are not ethical experiences, so don’t go with guides or companies offering these experiences. Low season is variable across Africa, but what is something really special about travelling in the low season in South Africa, for example? You can go to places and feel like you have it to yourself, you can also hang with the locals and get to understand how a city actually works. Locals disappear during the peak seasons – they know better - but during the low season you can really get to know them. In the Western Cape region, the southern right whales arrive in the low season which is really special to see. And in the summer during the low season this is when a lot of the antelope are calving, which is a true privilege to witness for yourself firsthand. The abundance of life with the coming of the rains is truly spectacular.

Interview with a local guide: Africa with Warren Pearson

Leap of Faith, The Mara River, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

Thirsty Work, Ruah National Park, Tanzania

Moonscape, Namib Naukluft Park, Namibia

Low Season Traveller

Hanging Out, Virunga National Park, DRC

Featured Destination: Oman

Oman An Arabian secret of diverse beauty, plunging gorges, towering mountains, deserts and beaches

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: April-June and Sept-October

Featured Destination: Oman By Claire French

The most popular time to visit is over winter when Oman’s climate is warm and pleasant, but to avoid this peak priced period, at Low Season Traveller we recommend trying the shoulder months between Easter and June and then September to October. The low season of July and August is particularly hot. However Oman has a different climate to that of the Gulf countries so summer travel is still possible

City Life in Muscat Port capital on the sultanate’s northern coast boasting an intriguing mix of great foodie venues, world class shopping, friendly open-mined people, and a rich cultural tradition. Unlike other Gulf cities, Muscat remains free of high rises meaning you’ll enjoy unrestricted views of the ocean to one side and rugged mountains to the other. A highlight is The Royal Opera House, not only is it an architectural gem, it is Oman’s premier venue for music and performing arts. Another favourite spot is Ghalya’s Museum of Modern Art, a fascinating place to discover the past, present and future of Oman. You can’t miss the stunning Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, open to non-Muslims and a real jewel, with exquisite Persian carpets and Swarovski crystal chandeliers. Visitors of all genders are required to cover legs and arms.

Low Season Traveller

“We belong to the international family. Our foreign policy is defined with clarity - a hand building from within and a hand offered in goodness, giving…’ These words, spoken by former Sultan Qaboos, just about sum up the peace-loving attitude prevalent in this unique destination. Political neutrality and a virtual absence of violent crime have left Oman a super safe place to visit. Not only that, it is unbelievably beautiful, lauded for its UNESCO recognised World Heritage sites and diverse regions, including vast deserts, flat plains, deep valleys, wadis, towering mountains, and 2000 miles of stunning coastline. It’s a truly extraordinary nation steeped in tradition conjuring magical Arabian images of 1001 Nights within a contemporary infrastructure of top class facilities and some of the best hotels in the world.

and certainly guarantees the best prices. Situated along the Indian Ocean, the coastal towns have a summer breeze that comes in off the sea. Daytime temperatures along the coast are comparable to that of Cyprus and Turkey. In Salalah in the south, 632miles from Muscat, a summer monsoon lowers temperatures (although not humidity) and renders the mountains green and verdant as the Khareef, as it’s known, sweeps in from the ocean.

Nakheel Fort

Featured Destination: Oman

Salalah Desert adventures and beach breaks 1 or 2 week itineraries out of Muscat are possible exploring Arabian fortresses and deep wadi riverbeds. Self-drive options are great if you are confident and open-minded. If you are going to turn green when the road disappears and you are alone in the shifting sands of the desert’s Empty Quarter, consider a guided option where a local expert can offer anecdotes, historical detail and vital experience when conditions turn extreme. Just over two hours from Muscat is Wahiba Sands, a moving desert of 4800 square miles. Travel the towering dunes by 4x4 among the wandering camels and Bedouin tribes that still traverse the desert. In the low season though the interior is very hot and the sand is fine and you may not be able to stay in the desert itself or take part in dune bashing. At this time, maybe turn to one of Oman’s many beaches, each different from the last. Along the south coast between Masirah Island and Salalah you’ll find long, lonely unspoilt stretches.

TOP EXPERIENCES

Low Season Traveller

Jabal Al Akhdar Ascend the spectacular steep winding roads and spend a couple of nights in the mountains visiting local villages. Enjoy the most amazing views of what is Oman’s Grand Canyon, but look out for its sheer drops of 2000 metres.

200 years old. Narrow alleyways full of stores entice you in with the smell of frankincense in the air.

FOOD AND DRINK Al Tanoor, Shangri La Barr Al Jissah Resort Al Tanoor restaurant in Muscat serves up classic cuisines of the Arabian Gulf region in a traditional Omani atmosphere. The lavish Omani buffet is popular with guest and locals with live cooking stations and a vibrant Arabian tent décor. The Restaurant at The Chedi This top Muscat venue is styled in fusion of contemporary and traditional Omani details by Yasuhiro Koichi, renowned Japanese interior designer and lit by stunning crystal chandeliers. Serves Western, Asian, Middle Eastern, and Indian fare. Boulevard Tea House A charming Indian style tea house at the Kempinski Hotel Muscat. Here a ‘chai wallah’ will show you a selection of rare Indian teas and help you choose the perfect blend. Snacks and desserts to accompany your tea are on offer.

Salalah The small city in the south is the place to go in low season to avoid the summer heat. Due to the Khareef monsoon temperatures are a comfortable 25°C. See the transformation at Wadi Darbat, the majestic valley filling with rain and 30 metre high waterfalls. Muttrah Souk While in Muscat, visit to the souk at Muttrah Harbour, an old fishing port that is home to the oldest souk in Oman, at

Restaurant at The Chedi Oman Beach, Salalah (right)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Oman

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Oman

INSIDER TIPS •

If you are heading to the mountains, do so midweek between Sunday and Thursday as Emiratees and local Omanis head to the cooler climes at the weekend to avoid the heat.

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Speak to the locals. Omanis are renowned for being friendly. They are people that are kind and open, so sit down with them for Omani coffee, dates and conversation.

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Tipping is not a common custom in Oman. Some upmarket restaurants may add a service charge but tips are usually not expected. An exception may be if you have a good local guide.

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Being at the centre of the trade routes between India, China and East Africa, Omani cuisine is a delicious eclectic mix, very different from that enjoyed in neighbouring countries.

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It is easier to buy alcohol in Oman than in neighbouring countries. The airport is a good place to buy and be aware that there are still strict regulations regarding consumption.

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In souks look for silver, gold, frankincense, scarves and the prettily domed tea light holders. You must haggle to reach the right price which is often half the initial asking price.

Wadi Tiwi

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GOOD TO KNOW

Cultural Heritage

under-the-radar cultural heritage icons Cultural heritage is what makes a destination and it’s people unique. And sadly, it is disappearing at an alarming rate. Yet tourism can help protect and preserve our precious cultural heritage so we are proud to work closely with the World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage to highlight some icons which you may not be aware of. Join our resident cultural heritage expert and executive chairman of World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage, Chris Flynn, who provides an overview of five amazing cultural and natural heritage places that are just as mysterious as they are beautiful. Add these places to your bucket list and start planning your next trip!

CASTELLFOLLIT DE LA ROCA THE LITTLE TOWN ON THE CLIFF Castellfollit de la Roca is located in the comarca of Garrotxa, in the Province of Girona, Catalonia, Spain. Built upon a basalt cliff 50 meters high and less than a kilometre long, the geographical footprint of the township is less than one square kilometre, making Castellfollit de la Roca the smallest municipality in the province and the second smallest in Catalonia. It’s uncertain just how old Castellfollit de la Roca is but the earliest written reference to it dates back to 1110 AD. Castellfollit de la Roca is yet another magnificent example of Spanish heritage.

The caves were discovered by a local farmer in 1992 and at that time were filled with water. It is believed the caves were made in pre-dynastic China, at least 3,000 years ago. Each of the manmade caves has an average floor space of 1000m², which is an unimaginable feat of engineering for the time period it is thought they were created. What makes the Longyou Caves even more remarkable and mysterious are the stone cutting marks, which are all uniform with a set angle of 60 degrees, suggesting the possibility that some form of ancient technology had been used.

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THE LONGYOU CAVES OF CHINA Referred to by many as the Chinese 8th Ancient Wonder of the World, the Longyou Caves, also known as the ‘Xiaonanhai Stone Chambers’, are a group of 24 artificial sandstone caverns located on the Qu River, near the village of Shiyan Beicun in Zhejiang Province, China.

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Cultural Heritage

MCDONALD LAKE – MONTANA, USA McDonald Lake in Montana’s ‘Glacier National Park’ has been a sacred place for the Kootenai people for thousands of years. It is just one of more than 700 lakes that border Canada, and there is evidence of human habitation dating back more than 10,000 years. The evidence shows that numerous Native American tribes used the area for hunting, fishing, gathering plants and sacred ceremonies. The area was originally known as ‘Eagle in the Wind’ or ‘Good Place to Dance’, but like so many other Indigenous places of significance around the world, the site was re-named in 1878 after Duncan McDonald, the son of the Hudson’s Bay Company trader Angus MacDonald.

‘GWION GWION’ – ANCIENT CAVE ART In the Kimberly region of Western Australia there is a baffling mystery that continues to raise more questions than answers. Spread over thousands of square kilometres we find what’s known as the ‘Gwion Gwion’ cave art, which is thought to be around 25,000 years old. But they don’t appear to be Aboriginal artworks. In fact, since their discovery, local tribes have consistently said ‘this is not the work of their ancestors’. What’s striking about the artwork is they look to be distinctly African. Not only that, in the areas where the cave art is found we also find Baobab Trees, which are only found in two other regions of the world; South Africa and Madagascar.

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Today the lake is better known for its spectacular landscape, crystal clear waters and the amazing array of coloured stones caused by their high iron content and oxidisation which has taken place over thousands of years. It’s certainly a beautiful place and one to add to your list!

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Cultural Heritage

THE CROOKED FOREST OF POLAND Located in the village of Nowe Czarnow, near the town of Gryfino in Poland, is what’s known as ‘The Crooked Forest’ where there are hundreds of oddly shaped pine trees that have grown in a very peculiar way. Planted in the 1930s, the trees have grown with an almost 90-degree bend at their base, making them look more like fishing hooks than regular trees. Some believe that this is due to an old growing technique used to make the trees curve this way. Others speculate that a winter snowstorm or some other damage could have given this fascinating forest its interesting shape. But how or why this has occurred has never been determined and remains a complete mystery to this day.

Featured Destination: Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Tropical rainforest, sandy beaches, culture and wildlife on this Indian Ocean pearl.

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: May - September

Featured Destination: Sri Lanka By Claire French

It’s true that Sri Lanka offers an astonishingly diverse range of experiences crammed into one small teardrop shaped island: gorgeous beaches, breathtaking rainforests, tranquil plains, and no fewer than eight (eight!) UNESCO World Heritage Sites. But what truly sets this destination apart is its people. Their warm smiles, curiosity, way of life, and gentle manner makes the journey all the more worthwhile. Regional monsoons You can have a wonderful experience here at any time with

temperatures fairly constant around 28 degrees on the coast and 18 degrees in the highlands. Low season, when you’ll miss the masses and have real opportunity to connect with the locals, would be May to June and September to October. The crux of the issue is to understand the island’s monsoon pattern. Hot and humid May brings the south-western rains while the north and east remain dry. September can be very hot, and then in October the weather flips with monsoon weather in the north-eastern region. In fact, October can be wet island-wide. Remember that you can plan your itinerary to make the most of the dry areas and that, even during monsoon, it very rarely rains the whole day and that blue sky days are not infrequent. May is an excellent time to cover the Cultural Triangle, Kandy, Yala and the southern beaches. In June we recommend Colombo, Wilpattu, Jaffna and Knuckes. During September and October, you can focus more on the eastern side of the tea country, Wellawaya and then the beaches of the South, ending up in Colombo.

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“I honestly cannot understand how it’s even possible”, she said to herself peeking out of her exquisitely decorated luxury en-suite tent set deep within the wild beauty of Udawalawe National Park. “Not only have we seen herds of elephants drinking at a watering hole, wild boar, sambar deer, crocodile and ospreys, we’ve already explored historic caves, picked leaves at a tea plantation, worshipped at the temple of Buddha’s tooth and we still have a week at the beach with a package of Ayurvedic spa treatments and delicious cuisine to look forward to”.

Hikaduwa: Sri Lanka’s Surf Mecca

Featured Destination: Sri Lanka Cultural Triangle It’s not all about surf and sea and freshly prepared curry, a trip to the central area is essential to understand Sri Lanka’s long Buddhist history. A roughly triangular shape incorporates several major World Heritage sites including the sacred capitals of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa with their ancient stupas. Climb the 1250 steps of the steep volcanic rock fortress at Sigiriya, once a monastery and later a royal residence. Explore the atmospheric Buddha filled caves of Dambulla and admire the magnificent frescoes inside. Spend time at the magical city of Kandy strolling round Bogambara Lake, botanical gardens and renowned temples. Finally, relax, it’s time to head to the island’s golden shores for some well-deserved down time.

TOP EXPERIENCES A Sri Lankan cooking class A fabulous way to spend a rainy day, hone your culinary skills and impress friends back home with your recreation of fragrant dishes.

Leopard Spotting in Sri Lanka

Sri Lankan Cooking Jaffna Off the beaten track on the northern tip of the island, the fascinating Hindu city of Jaffna is rich in its own culture, heritage and history. Knuckles mountain range Trek or take a jeep through this UNESCO site in Matale, home to beautiful landscapes, waterfalls and exceptional scenery teeming with biodiversity.

FOOD AND DRINK Culinary Ceylon, Colombo This upmarket place offers a fabulous 7 course theatrical dining experience with age old traditional Sri Lankan recipes.

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Priyamali Gedara, Polonnaruwa Perfect lunch spot in a farm setting serving around 15 Sri Lankan rice and curry dishes, overlooking the rice paddies.

Mango’s Vegetarian Restaurant, Jaffna Even meat-eaters will love Mangos. Serving mouthwatering Sri Lankan South Indian food, specialising in dosas and biryan

The Famous Sri Lankan “Hoppers”

WHY TRAVEL COUNSELLORS? As your Personal Travel Counsellor, I’ll listen to exactly what you’d like from your holiday and the things that matter to you.

It’s important to me that you’re not worrying about your money’s security when you should be looking forward to your holiday! Your peace of mind is such a priority that Travel Counsellors introduced its Trust – a financial guarantee to cover every single booking. Our Trust is much more comprehensive than the basic ATOL protection, because you’re covered for everything, not just the bits of your travel that includes flights. From hotel stays to airport parking, from transfers to car hire, when you book travel arrangements with me, every penny is protected. No ifs, no buts, no maybes.

created using your holiday wish list to suit your exact needs and budget. All you’ll need to worry about is what to pack for your trip! My unique service also extends far beyond simply booking your holiday. When you travel with Travel Counsellors, I’m available to take your call every single minute of every single day. It means that no matter where you are, whatever the local time, you’ll be able to get in touch with somebody who cares about you. Travel Counsellors is a global community of friendly and experienced travel professionals offering a personalised travel service. We believe that holidays are personal and that’s why you’ll have your own travel expert who will work to build a trip that ticks every box on your holiday wish list. We’re an award-winning business with more than 20 years’ experience and we have over 1,800 Travel Counsellors around the world sharing knowledge, ideas and recommendations. Our community of experts can provide you with the very best personalised, hassle-free advice on any travel arrangements, anywhere in the world. Call me today and let’s plan your next holiday!

CONTACT ME FOR HELP WITH YOUR LOW SEASON TRAVEL NEEDS.

NIC FOLEY Travel Counsellor

+44 020 3051 1970 nic.foley@travelcounsellors.com www.travelcounsellors.com/nicola.foley

Featured Destination: Sri Lanka

SRI LANKA’S GREAT RESET Sri Lanka’s lush rainforest

Sri Lanka has the opportunity to turn its worst postindependence economic and political crisis into a global example for normalising conscious consumption and establishing a climate-forward business environment. We caught up with tourism advisor and Sri Lankan local, Chalana Perera, the Founder of RETRACE Hospitality, for this special report. Despite Sri Lanka making global headlines for mass protests and an ailing economy, it recorded nearly half a million foreign arrivals in the first seven months of 2022. Contrary to media sensationalism, the island remains open and safe for travellers.

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While remaining safe and inviting of tourists, Sri Lanka still battles multiple crises. Corruption, gross negligence, and incompetence through successive governments has led the once prosperous nation to bankruptcy. This translates to severe shortages of imported “essentials” such as fossil fuels to fuel powerplants and transportation, imported food, medicines and other “essentials” such as paper and books for schools.

Some Sri Lankans, however, are advocating for a much needed conscious awakening. They recognize the crisis and hardships as a much-needed wake-up call to redirect the debt-ridden path of a once booming economy. Why has a nation rich with renewable energy sources become so dependent on fossil fuels? Why import food to a fertile tropical island? Why order processed paper when there are digital and sustainable methods of teaching? The answer lies in conscious consumption and a more regenerative economy.

Chalana suggests that Sri Lanka’s tourism sector (reflective of much of the island’s wider economy) faces a timely and brilliant opportunity to embrace regenerative models and circular practices that ensure long-term financial gains are aligned with gains for people and the planet. In the case of tourism specifically, Chalana believes that industry veterans in Sri Lanka must “right much of the wrong that Sri Lanka tourism has been built upon since Sri Lanka’s civil war ended in 2009”. There was a boom in tourism development, and now a bust in the economy. Issues like waste management, water treatment, pollution, wildlife park and resource management, illegal construction, corruption, carrying capacity and guest experience management have to be addressed by the crisishit tourism industry. Chalana never valued the idea of “building concrete resorts with imported, extractive materials.” He is somewhat critical of the development of “internationally branded sky-scrapers dotting the once pristine coastline.” “Why would I want to stay in a skyscraper or concrete block on a palm-fringed beach?” he asks, challenging some in the industry. Such resorts incur massive development costs, and are often built on borrowed money with imported raw materials. Chalana suggests large buffets, multiple swimming pools and thousands of air-conditioned rooms are a strain on resources and the environment. They also reflect outdated tourism products that are easily experienced and replicated worldwide. “When I travel long-haul, I don’t particularly want to stay at an internationally branded, concrete resort behind high walls, served by people in stiff uniforms and welcomed by

Featured Destination: Sri Lanka security guards. That’s not my take on a high-quality travel experience. That’s old news, done and dusted. You don’t need to fly to Sri Lanka for that experience. We’ve got something more meaningful on offer”. In order to deliver real economic and monetary value in the long-term, Chalana encourages Sri Lanka’s tourism sector to transform from being “numbers-minded and air-conditioned big-building obsessed” to an industry that is driven by “quality, impact and well-being for people and the planet”. He believes that “far more revenue can be generated in the long-run” if Sri Lankans manage and market the destination and industry intelligently. The entire supply chain for tourism can reset itself, by becoming more conscious and adding more value. Sri Lanka’s crisis is an opportunity for entrepreneurs to create smarter local products and industries to supply tourism businesses. This could be in-room amenities, furniture, fixtures, equipment, non-extractive construction materials, non-toxic cleaning products, natural-fiber linen and upcycled uniforms, high-quality food and beverage or local artwork. This would counter the expense at which large international chains and big brands “gentrify” or “commoditize” the market. Mega tourism development projects carry unnecessary financial strain, jeopardize the island’s authenticity and incur severe environmental consequences. Chalana envisions a truly regenerative island destination where tourism is a force for much needed systemic transformation, for visitors, local businesses and residents alike. This means Sri Lankan businesses must regenerate themselves to better align their purpose with the planet, people and their profits.

Adrenaline fuelled water sports As the current crisis forces many Sri Lankan tour operators and hotels to operate on a resource-constrained basis, some are fast becoming more environmentally conscious – not by design, but by (financial) default. Nature-based experiences and digital-detox holidays can and must take centre stage. Sri Lanka has long been Asia’s favored destination for wildlife enthusiasts, including bird watchers. There are 26 national parks on the island and several more protected forest reserves and nature conservation areas. A lush network of 103 rivers and thousands of lakes provide great opportunity for lowfootprint, fossil-fuel free inland water activities alongside the sea-based kite-surfing, windsurfing and regular surfing. The Pandemic-induced demand for holistic wellness experiences and local, nutritious food offerings will only continue to grow. Spiritual and mindfulness retreats, meditation and yoga or the native angampora martial art, do not require any of the resources that are currently scarce or rationed in the country. Sri Lanka’s return to more traditional and healthy forms of regenerative agriculture suggests that travellers and locals alike can be nourished with a diverse range of fresh vegetables, fruits, seafood and organic meats- it’s not all just spicy curries! On top of all this, Sri Lanka can now be explored fossil-fuel free. You can hear the full interview with Chalana in this podcast episode which we recently recorded.

Sunset serenity in Sri Lanka

And you can learn more about Chalana and his work here: www.retracehospitality.com

Featured Destination: Sri Lanka

INSIDER TIPS •

Each full moon is known as Poya Day which is marked by a National Holiday to allow practising Buddhists to visit their temple.

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Conservative dress is essential for sacred sites; and don’t forget non-slip waterproof sandals for climbing. Feet may overheat in trainers.

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There is a growing trend in wellness, yoga and Ayurvedic retreats, plus properties are focusing on a sustainable approach to tourism.

GOOD TO KNOW •

Sri Lankans eat early. Although tourist restaurants will stay open later, if you explore local areas, expect to eat by 7pm.

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The weather can be unpredictable. Always get a forecast from a local expert and be prepared with sunscreen, hat and poncho.

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Train travel is an amazing way to see the country, especially the trip from Ella to Kandy, but beware, tickets do sell out.

Low Season Traveller

Ready to go to Sri Lanka? Join us on our Low Season Journey to Sri Lanka this September with Aitken Spence Travels. Learn more and sign up for the trip.

LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

Nuwaraeliya,, Sri Lanka

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Featured Destination: Sri Lanka

A niche within a niche: Wildflowers

e r a s r e w o fl d l i W Where the By Rachel Jacgung, Editor-in-Chief

Is there anything quite as beautiful as a sea of colour in the form of wildflowers? Think bright hues of purple, yellow, pink and blue as far as the eye can see! While Japan’s cherry blossom flowers and the Netherland’s tulips are famous all over the world, there are plenty of places where you can visit unique flowers blooming throughout the year. Here’s our suggestions for places and times when you can be in the right place at the right time to see the natural beauty of unique seasonal flowers in bloom all over the world!

Ogle over 12,000 species of flowers in Western Australia’s Wildflower Country Western Australia is home to over 12,000 species – 60% of which can’t be found anywhere else in the world! Just some of the blooms on display include banksias, wattle, orchids, everlastings and wreath flowers. ‘Wildflower Country’ stretches from north of Perth to Geraldton covering nine local government areas which band together to create a tourism destination dedicated to the region’s wildflowers.

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Katarina from Wildflower Country told us “This biodiversity hotspot is exploding with colourful, rare flowers that attract people worldwide. Wildflower Country lets you immerse yourself in vibrant fields of wildflowers surrounded by raw, ancient outback landscapes.”

Speaking of the best time to visit, Katarina added that “Wildflower season can vary from year to year due to seasonal changes, rainfall, and weather. But it’s usually from late July until October when you can see the most species of wildflowers.”

A Jacaranda-lined street in Grafton, Australia.

See sunshine yellow fields of gorse in Yorkshire, UK Gorse is a bright yellow shrub that grows all over the UK but is particularly stunning during springtime in the North Yorkshire Moors or Yorkshire Dales National Parks. Sometimes known as ‘whin’ or ‘furze’, this resilient shrub creates a carpet of yellow blooms across the moors and smells of coconut and vanilla. While gorse can be found year-round, the best season to see these yellow beauties in bloom is between January and June. Pink heather and yellow hay meadow flowers also blanket the moors and dales, making for a romantic backdrop to great walks in the British countryside while you channel your inner Heathcliffe and Catherine! Heather and yellow hay flowers usually bloom in June and July.

Road trip down a boulevard of Jacaranda dreams in New South Wales, Australia Jacarandas are famous all over the world for their stunning lilac leaves! These purple beauties are only in bloom for a short time between mid-October to mid-November during Australia’s spring. Vibrant Blue Lupins in Crested Butte (right)

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Colorado Lupins

A niche within a niche: Wildflowers

A carpet of Lupins

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Western Australia’s carpet of wildflowers (below)

A niche within a niche: Wildflowers

Start on the Jacaranda-lined McDougall Street in the Sydney suburb of Kirribilli where the Jacaranda trees create a gorgeous archway of blooms along the street. If you’re not leaving Sydney you can also find Jacaranda trees at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Lavender Bay, Hunters Hill and Paddington. If you’ve got some extra time up your sleeve then you can road trip six hours north from Sydney to Grafton. Here you’ll find 1,700 blossoming Jacaranda trees painting the whole town purple!

Look at vibrant blue Lupins in Colorado, USA The ski town of Crested Butte in Colorado is best known for its snow-based activities in the winter, but has plenty to offer during the summer months too – including fields of wonderful wildflowers! The best time to experience wildflowers blooming in Crested Butte is during June and July – you’ll find a sea of colour bursting from a mix of glacier lilies, sunflowers, marigolds, lupines and primrose. There are several hiking and mountain biking trails you can take to get the best view of the wildflowers, including The Lupine Trail where you can see – you guessed it – beautiful blue and purple lupines lining your path!

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If you’re in town at the right time you can either take a quick dip into the purple haze or make a full on Jacaranda road trip through New South Wales.

Low Season adventures

infection took him in just five days. When you’ve lived so long with relentless positivity you leave no room for failure, for what-ifs, and the shock was seismic; leaving me a widow at 45, with two similarly traumatised children aged just 15 and 12. I’m not a great mum, sometimes I’m a good mum, sometimes I’m a bloody awful mum.

By Nikki Morrison

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To relax, for adventures, for renewal? To experience new tastes, cultures, vistas? The answer will be different and personal to everyone, so perhaps I should just stick to giving my personal answer.

Nine years ago my world ended: my husband died. He’d been ill for nine years, diagnosed on our 10th wedding anniversary, but we’d spent those nine years very much alive and fighting for life. It wasn’t the cancer that killed him. He was undergoing a second stem cell transplant when an

I thought you only had to get them to five and then we’d be able to head off on adventures of our own once again, but ‘I can’t wait til the kids leave home’ quickly flipped to ‘Don’t leave me!’ So I guess what I’m saying is that I’ve been quietly bracing myself for this moment ever since Rory died. Every parent wants to launch their child into the world full of confidence and with barely a backward glance… but bereaved children are different. They’ve lost one parent and they keep a beady eye on the one they’ve got left. My daughter doesn’t do ‘Mother’s Day’, she sends me ‘MAD Day’ cards, because

Low Season adventures that’s what I am: Mum And Dad. In a near decade of slow recovery we have become incredibly close - a really good friend used to remind me that good things come in threes and I’ve finally learned she was right - I’m really proud of the three of us. So why go? Well, selfishly - I hate being left. Less selfishly, I want to free them from the responsibility of parenting the parent. To let them concentrate on finding their place in the world without thinking about me - and perhaps to set an example of having courage enough to do that. I want them to be proud of me… I want to live my life well, to take chances, to take part in the world. And to do that I need to let go. Nine years on I live in a house where my husband would still be able to find most things in the cupboards and drawers. His belongings are still here, hell - HE is still here. So this decision to take twelve months to travel the world is about finding a new world and my place in it. It’s scary but I feel if it’s to balance out the past it needs to be bold. When you’ve been through a bereavement that robs you of your future (and I am by no-means the only one, there are millions of us out there) for a long, long time you have to hunker down in survival mode, but eventually you function again and then you need to live again. I hope I’m not being reckless, rocking the boat unnecessarily or failing to count my blessings. I’m listening to the voice in my head (perhaps it’s Rory), saying, “What have you got to lose?” “You’ve survived the worst.” “Be bold because there might not be another day.” And that is why I am going to travel. I have a one way ticket booked to Bangkok for 9th August, and at the moment, that’s about it! The plan is - as far as possible - to explore the very best of the world during the low season. Thailand will be in the middle of the rains, a time of regrowth and rejuvenation (appropriately enough) and I hope to explore the north of the country first, the mountains and border with Myanmar. From there perhaps Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, and overland through Thailand again down through Malaysia to Singapore, then on to Indonesia and Borneo. Covid-19 remains a challenge, there’s still no tourist access to Papua, or Taiwan for example, but maybe things will change. Ukraine is another consideration, no flights through Russian airspace make getting to Japan a challenge. So maybe I will fly on to India, or Bhutan or Nepal next. It sounds like a crazy global shopping list, but I don’t want to just tick the destinations off. I’ll be sharing it all on social media, in podcasts, videos, pictures and interviews, highlighting how wonderful it can be to travel out of season and the damage being done by over-tourism. We all have a responsibility to consider our impact and with the help of Low Season Traveller and our partners I’ll be able to show you the way: real world experiences in real time.

Nikki, Honor and Reuben at Stainforth in the Yorkshire Dales Sometimes it won’t be pretty - sometimes it will take your breath away! The plan is journey overland as much as possible, to use trains, buses and boats and broadly speaking to divide the world (it’s a big place) into three chunks - Asia, Africa and Central and South America. So far the English speaking parts of the world tempt me less, which given my own appalling lack of language skills I may yet regret. I’m planning only to take cabin luggage, it’s less likely to get lost and it will teach me to live with less. In fact I think the whole experience will do that. If you’re reading this then I know you too want to learn how to travel mindfully. It’s hard and it takes time to research, my in-at-the-deep end approach will make it easier for you to make good choices and put you in touch with a world-wide range of tour operators, hoteliers and resorts who share our values. I hope to learn from them too, about their part of the world, the people in it, what connects us and how we can work - and play - together to protect it. It’s been about a year since I started to say out-loud that this was what I was going to do. Making myself vulnerable once again is hugely nerve-wracking, but if a 55 year old MAD, solo female, who’s good at denial can do it, then hopefully I can inspire others too. My son has just turned 21, my mum 80, and as I enter my tenth year of widowhood I’m off on @mylowseasonadventure - it’s going to be life-changing. Please follow along, I’d appreciate the company! Nikki Morrison is a former BBC Journalist who will be setting off to explore the world’s low seasons for Low Season Traveller. She has a one way ticket booked for Bangkok in August. We are looking for partners to work with Nikki during her journey. If you’d like to offer accommodation or experiences in return for featuring on Low Season Traveller’s many platforms, please get in touch. You can follow Nikki @mylowseasonadventure on Facebook and Instagram

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But mostly it’s selfish!

Top 10 best stays

Featured Destinations:Jordan

OUR TOP

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BEST STAYS

Top 10 best stays

LUXURY

SHANGRI-LA BARR AL JISSAH, OMAN This luxury hotel in Muscat offers the best of both worlds – stunning stretches of beach in front of the hotel and rugged mountains behind it! There are six swimming pools and even a lazy river attraction at the hotel for hours of fun. And that’s not even their most special offering. The Barr Al Jissah runs a special Turtle Care project the endangered Hawksbill and Green Turtle species native to Oman’s beaches. Their dedicated turtle ranger on site educates guests on protecting the turtles and there are opportunities to see the turtles (and if you’re lucky – their hatchlings) on the beach. Check out the Shangri-la Barr Al Jissah

Images sourced from accommodation providers.

ICONIC

HOTEL ALFONSO XIII, SEVILLE This hotel is fit for a King – so fit that King Alfonso XIII commissioned it to be built in 1929 and named it after himself! The architecture and décor showcases native Andalusian design and distinct Sevillian style. Located in Seville’s old town, this iconic building offers a luxury stay with stunning details and restaurants and bars serving authentic Andalusian cuisine and tapas. Prepare to be wowed by the hotel

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ICONIC

THE COPACABANA PALACE, RIO DE JANEIRO The Copacabana Palace is without a doubt a Rio icon. Combining old-world glamour and modern-day cool, the palace offers multiple restaurants and bars – including one with a Michelin star, a pool, spa and more inside its heritage building and art-deco design. If that’s not enough, the iconic Copacabana beach is just a few steps from the door! Marvel at the Palace and book your stay

Top 10 best stays

LUXURY

SANTANI WELLNESS RESORT, SRI LANKA Located about an hour’s drive from Kandy, Santani Wellness resort is set on a lush former tea plantation 2,800 feet above sea level. This stunning, contemporary resort offers a range of wellness experiences from ayurvedic, detox, weight loss, sleep and stress therapies to personalised yoga retreats. The resorts’ minimalist design aims to have a minimal impact on the environment and all meals are personalised for each guest with all dietary requirements also catered for. Book to unwind at Santani Wellness Resort

QUIRKY

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QUIRKY 47

SELINA LAPA, RIO DE JANEIRO Located in the trendy Lapa district of Rio, Selina’s Lapa hotel is the perfect base to explore the area’s art scene. The hotel boasts a rooftop terrace, yoga deck, cocktail bar, movie theatre, co-working space and even an in-house radio station which broadcasts local musicians and inspiring stories. Book a private or shared room at Selina Lapa

ADELPHI HOTEL, MELBOURNE The Adelphi Hotel is a food lover’s dream in Melbourne, located on the iconic Flinders Lane which is home to amazing restaurants and bars for any time of day or night. From the life-sized metal horse and pink carriage reception desk to the liquorice stools in your room, the hotel design is luxury-meets-kitsch with a touch of whimsy. A highlight of the hotel is its in-house restaurant and bar ‘Om Nom’ which is famous for its eclectic desserts, indulgent high tea and unique cocktail list. Stay at the Adelphi Hotel

Top 10 best stays

ECO

BANYAN CAMP, SRI LANKA Banyan Camp is an off-grid eco retreat located close to the Udawalawe National Park in rural Sri Lanka. This is the perfect getaway for those looking to unplug and be close to nature in peaceful surrounds. You’ll stay in an open-air lodge made from reclaimed wood and sustainable materials and you’ll feast on beautiful homemade Sri Lankan food with all your meals included in your stay. Stay at Banyan Camp

ECO

SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY, OMAN Six Senses Zighy Bay is a luxury eco resort located on the stunning Musandam Peninsula in Oman. The hotel takes sustainability seriously through a number of environmental and social initiatives including supporting the local village and schools, recycling their own water and using it for irrigation purposes and their diving hosts are trained to removed ghost nets left by fishermen and to rescue sea creatures caught in the nets. Stay at Six Senses for sustainable luxury

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BOUTIQUE

HOTEL AMADEUS, SEVILLE This unique hotel is inspired by classical music in both its design and its offering to guests. Watch an exclusive classical music concert or stay in a soundproofed room with a piano, harp or something else ready for you to play or practice on when you arrive. Also boasting a rooftop terrace and pool, this classically decorated hotel is located in the heart of Seville. Practice the piano at Hotel Amadeus

Low Season Traveller

Top 10 best stays

BOUTIQUE

OVOLO LANEWAYS, MELBOURNE This boutique hotel is centrally located on Little Bourke Street and is perfect for exploring the city. What sets Ovolo apart are the fun perks included in your stay. We’re talking a fully-stocked mini bar in your room, breakfast, self-serve laundry, an all-day candy/ snack bar in the lobby where you can even fill up with your own ‘loot bag’ of sweets to take with you – all of which are FREE. Yes, you can help yourself to the minibar and not pay an extra cent for your room! Did we mention there’s a daily social hour where the first drink is on the house? Get ALL the goodies at Ovolo Laneways

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Top 10 best stays

Food, Glorious Food!

San Francisco

! t u o t r a e h r ae t you

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San Francisco is famous for its hills and iconic historic trams

San Francisco is a wonderful melting pot of hoodie wearing tech-bros, Mexican and Latino immigrants, a huge LGBTQI+ community and your everyday progressive American. This assorted mix of people, found nowhere else in the USA, is the perfect recipe for some incredibly diverse and exciting food.

Food, Glorious Food! By Kate Burgess This list is the food the locals love, that isn’t going to break the bank. While we’d usually do anything to avoid a crowd, we’re making some exceptions with these popular spots. Anywhere you may have to queue for is worth the wait! Most of these restaurants are based in the Mission District where eating, drinking and partying is the number one priority. La Taqueria - The Mission District When you’re in California, Mexican restaurants spots are a dime a dozen. Admittedly (in the fear of making this section redundant) you’re going to get very delicious Mexican food if you pick one at random. But, I want to make sure you get the BEST Mexican food. La Taqueria on 24th and Mission, you’ll know you’re at the right spot because of the curling line that is always out the front, is a no frills family run restaurant with Miguel Jara as the head honcho. Boasting a vast open kitchen, you can watch the preparation of the succulent meats and tortillas that will have you drooling by the time you order. Please for me, order the super carne asada burrito - you will not regret it. I highly recommend you take your burrito, walk to Dolores Park and indulge while enjoying the best view in the city. Oh, did I mention that this unassuming family restaurant has a Michelin Star? Yeah, it’s THAT good. Brenda’s French Soul Food - Little Saigon If you don’t have time to make it to the Southern US, don’t fear because you can still experience the authentic soul, Creole and French food of New Orleans right here in San Francisco. Brenda’s French Soul food on Polk Street is a local legend. I highly recommend booking a table for brunch one morning and indulging in the Shrimp & Grits with spicy Tomato and Bacon Gravy, the Chicken and Andouille Gumbo and finishing off your meal with the famous Beignets: plain, apple and chocolate!

Señor Sisig wows with it’s delectable drunken Filopino food. Señor Sisig - The Mission District From the humble beginnings of a food truck created by two best buds, Senor Sisig now has five brick and mortar stores and three food trucks that roam the whole bay area. Sisig is a rugged Filipino drunken food - a heavily seasoned mixture of meat from the pig’s snout. However, Señor Sisig adapted the traditional meal for Western audiences and used pork shoulder, and adapted the method to chicken and tofu. In true Californian fashion you will get a Mexican twist with your meal. Keeping their menu simple you have your choice of meat, prepared in typical Sisig fashion, and can have it as a burrito, taco, nachos, fries, rice or a salad. After your meal, head round the corner to El Techo for the greatest rooftop bar in The Bay. Tartine Bakery - The Mission District Can you tell by this point that The Mission is the place to go for food?! Tartine Bakery - yes another spot that you may have to queue up for but the wait is so worth it. Using a wood-fire brick oven Tartine is baking elegant and oldsoul bread with methods learnt abroad. Tartine now has locations across California but the spot on Guerro is the original. You MUST try the country loaf. Yes, you can eat just bread as a meal. Go next door to Bi-Rite, an organic grocer, for some butter to slather on this heavenly life-changing bread. Of course it must be followed by a pastry. I recommend the frangipani croissant with almond cream and brandy. Enjoy having your life changed after visiting Tartine!

Their legendary Tea Leaf Salad has returned after COVID-19 related supply chain issues, was voted by Sunset Magazine and the Best of the West-Salad and winner of the “Good Food Award” in 2017. A fermented lead leaf with a crispy mixture of nuts, beans and garlic with lettuce will awaken your palette like you’ve never experienced before. Burma love is famous for its Tea Leaf Salad

Low Season Traveller

Burma Love - The Mission District The best Burmese (Myanmar) food in the US hands down. Burma Love (little sister of Burma Superstar in Downtown SF) is known for its legendary wait times and there’s a reason for that. Whether you’re heading out there for a big family dinner or it’s a first date, Burma Love is the place for you.

Featured Podcasts

Let us whisk you away from reality for 30 minutes as we escape to different exciting parts of the world each week. Since 2018, thousands of low season travellers like you, have been tuning in to listen to our Insider Guides podcast series. These podcasts are your chance to listen to locals from around the world where they tell us why their destination is at its best, during the low season months.

Low Season Traveller

In each edition, we bring you five of our favourite destinations and five of our favourite guests, so sit back, relax and let us take you away with us…

MAE HONG SON, THAILAND: CONNECTING DEEPER WITH COMMUNITIES

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Founder of the Fair Tourism Foundation Charlotte chats with Kate on the community based tourism (CBT) created in the Mae Hong Son province, specifically the Huay Pu Keng village. We discuss this magical sliver of Northern Thailand only accessed by braving the winding roads through endless mountains. This is the perfect spot for learning, immersing and engaging in rural Thai culture.

Featured Podcasts

LOW SEASON BARBADOS: WHAT’S IT REALLY LIKE? Today we’re bringing you to Barbados in this special episode. Ged and Kevin Brown were kindly invited over to Barbados last month to experience the low season on the island for themselves. Here are their initial thoughts and reactions of an outstanding low season experience recorded at the fabulous La Cabane Restaurant on the beachfront. LISTEN NOW

ISRAEL: “HUMMUS IS LIFE!” Israel is a popular destination and we were keen to speak with Sharon Bershadsky of the Israel Tourist Office to find out what the experience is like for visitors to Israel in the low season and learn more about this fascinating country which has an incredibly rich culture and heritage. Oh, and Hummus featured more than we intended!

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FREEMANTLE: “PEOPLE COME AND NEVER LEAVE!” Kate is joined by the passionate Michael from Fremantle Tours. Tucked in the coast of Western Australia Fremantle boasts an exciting and colourful culture while carefully preserving and maintaining its rich history. Hear the reason people visit Fremantle and never leave.

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Vikki, from MacLean and Bruce, returns to talk about whisky! Charles MacLean, Vikki’s business partner, is a world-leading whisky expert. Prepare yourself as we tackle everything you need to know about whisky - we cover it all from Ancient Egypt to royalty and even intoxicated angels...

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Low Season Traveller

SCOTTISH WHISKY: THE WATER OF LIFE

Featured Destination: Seville

Seville Have your senses seduced in this vibrant, historic and traditional centre

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: June, July, August

Featured Destination: Seville By Claire French When it comes to Seville, there really are only two types of people: those who have never been but are dying to go; and those who have been who are already planning their return. Spend a weekend or spend a month, either way this Andalucian capital will capture your mind, soul and taste buds with its characteristic sultry exoticism.

Low Season Traveller

Many people prefer to travel during the winter, spring and autumn and escape the northern European climate. However, to avoid peak crowds and get amazing deals, consider the low season months of June, July and August. Yes, it will be steamy with temperatures reaching the high 30s or more, but with research and planning, you can have an unforgettable experience at this time.

Flamenco in Seville

Featured Destination: Seville Magnificent landmarks Star Wars fans will do a double take at the stunning Plaza de España in beautiful Parque Maria Luisa. Covering the area of five football pitches, the sweeping 1929 structure combines styles from Art Deco, Renaissance, Baroque and Moorish architecture and was the setting of the City of Theed in Attack of the Clones. What a wonderful place to spend your time, especially after its €14 million government investment. Back in the old town explore the ornate Moorish Royal Alcazar and Seville’s magnificent cathedral, the world’s largest gothic structure and supposed burial place of adopted son Christopher Colombus. Its belltower, La Giralda, is visible across the city and is a handy landmark if you lose your way, which is kind of inevitable in the winding whitewashed narrow streets of Santa Cruz. Messing about on the river Ah the historic Guadalquivir. The closest thing that Sevillianos have to a seafront and a key player in Spain’s colonial past. Join the locals and stroll for miles along the pretty promenade. You’ll pass the Plaza de Toros, where you can pop in for a fascinating audio tour, and the Moorish Torre del Oro, brilliant against the bright blue sky. Stop for respite from the sun for refreshments in one of the shady river front bars. Get closer to the water with a cruise on the river. Boats depart regularly from the Torre del Oro costing €14 for an hour’s cruise. Or hire kayaks for a fun and relaxing experience. Several companies offer guiding and include safety briefings and snacks.

TOP EXPERIENCES Flamenco Feel the passion of the foot stomping, hand clapping, guitar strumming flamenco. Find Peña Flamenca Fernando del Valle Niño de la Alfalfa for a real local experience every Saturday. Cooking class at Estraperlo Fun and friendly lessons at this super cafe near Parque Maria Luisa. Book ahead. Estraperlo also prepares food for take away and a has a lovely organic shop. Las Setas by night When the heat of the day is over, head up the amazing modernist wooden structure of the Metropol Parasol. It a fab experience and you’ll gain great views over the city.

Metropol Parasol by night

FOOD AND DRINK El Pasaje Santa Maria La Blanca Tucked away down a winding alley, this lovely venue has delicious a la carte options or a choice of set menus. The carrillada de cerdo, slow cooked pork cheeks, are a real treat. Bar La Teresas In the heart of Barrio Santa Cruz this busy traditional tapas bar is compete with hanging jamons. Does awesome chickpeas and spinach, one of the region’s most delicious dishes for vegetarians.

Low Season Traveller

Plaza Espana

Triana Cross the river at Puente Isabel II, Spain oldest iron bridge, and reach the quieter neighbourhood of Triana. Many tourists never make it to this side but it’s well worth the trip. It’s the place to buy local ceramics and there’s even a museum dedicated to the craft. Try Santa Ana Ceramics close to the bridge. They don’t close for siesta, but they do rest on Sundays. Nearby is the authentic Triana Market busting with flowers, fruit and a load of food stalls selling fresh salmorejo (like gazpacho) and hand carved jamon. Come sit and eat with the locals before venturing to the old church of Santa Ana built in 1266 which is home to a painting of sisters Rufina and Justa, 3rd century potters and Seville’s patron saints.

Orange wine Everyone’s heard of Seville oranges, but you must try the city’s orange wine while you’re here. This sweet aperitif is a delicious novelty and makes a great souvenir to take home as well.

Bar Las teresas Caption needed image right

Featured Destination: Seville

INSIDER TIPS •

In the hot low season, do as the locals do and start early. Insert a siesta into your afternoon and then continue adventuring until (very) late.

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Even in low season, there can be queues for tickets to enter the stunning cathedral. Think smart and pre-book online for the same price and go straight through.

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Climb the staircases at Plaza de España to the first floor balconies for a different perspective and fabulous views. The central balcony is particularly magnificent.

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Seville has a happening rooftop terrace scene. Ideal for enjoying an evening breeze. Terraza Hotel Doña Maria is a good pick for cocktails and live music.

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Mudejar style is unique to the area with Christian rulers designing in a Moorish style using Moorish architects and labourers. The Real Alcazar is a perfect example.

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If you are in Seville for a longer stay, fascinating day trips to the nearby cities of Granada, Cordoba or Ronda are possible by train or with a car rental.

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Low Season Traveller

GOOD TO KNOW

The low down

The Low Down

Going local

By Lisa TE Sonne, Editor At Large

You probably wouldn’t be reading this magazine if you didn’t recognize that the real prizes for a seasoned traveller are getting to meet the locals, learning about their culture from the inside out, and experiencing the essence of a foreign place. Why go anywhere if you’re not going to be there when you get there? The numbers – hear me out here: a recent American Express poll showed that 72% of travellers want to help boost tourism revenue in local economies. Another, by Booking.com, revealed that 73% of travellers would like to have authentic experiences representative of the local culture. All that (and more) can be accomplished by Going local.

Low Season Traveller

Here are some suggestions about how you can create your own magic.

He learned that I liked books and writing and told me about bookstores as well as pointing out things that influenced J.K. Rowling when she lived in Porto and was writing her first Harry Potter book. 2. Be mindful when shopping for gifts and souvenirs Start your trip with a list of people at home who deserve a gift on your return. You might include your cat-sitter, someone with a birthday coming up, or anyone who might enjoy sharing your experiences. Maybe you even like to keep a drawer full of unusual gifts ready for the next holiday. Once you have your list, buy gifts as you discover handicrafts made by locals or locally-made items that tell a story about the culture you are visiting. And don’t forget to buy something for yourself!

1. Book a local guide with a small group for a tour on your first day. On a recent trip to Portugal, my husband and I made a point of trying to go local at every juncture and were glad we did. On our first day, in Porto, we booked a tour with a local guide who took us walking through the city, sharing his passion for the traditional and unique tiles that adorn so many buildings.

When I needed a hat for sun protection and warmth, I left the mass-made baseball caps on the shelf and went straight for the store with clothes made out of cork. Growing and harvesting cork is a major industry in Portugal, and the same substance that seals wine bottles can be used to make a fine, flexible, waterproof hat – from a material that is far more sustainable than leather from animal skins. Harvesting cork from the bark of the Cork Oaks actually keeps the trees living longer.

We certainly learned about the city’s architectural beauty and history, but our local guide was also happy to share what he knew about locally-run restaurants, entertainment that locals enjoy, stores run by local families, and some of his favorite local places that aren’t known by tourists.

We also had something for our home on our Portugal shopping list: kitchen curtains. We loved being able to go into a fabric shop in Coimbra and choose locally-made material for our window dressings. We look at them every morning now and remember what a good time we had, and

Centro Interpretativo (above)

The low down 5. Use your resources Reach out beforehand to groups that share your special interests. If those groups have events in the location where you are travelling, you may be able to attend like a local to see, for example, how the local chapter of a club holds its meetings or how religious services differ. There are also great online apps, like MeetUp, where you can find events with locals and special interest groups. Here are some examples of organizations you might check out:

Portuguese fado we feel good knowing that more of our money went into the local economy. 3. Choose a place to stay in a local neighbourhood In Portugal, we stayed at apartments we found on the internet. Borrowing someone’s apartment for a few days taught us much about how our hosts lived. The apartment we chose in Coimbra belonged to a couple of architects, one of whom designed the interior himself. Both he and his wife were extraordinarily helpful about recommending restaurants, a place where we could hear Fado (traditional Portuguese music) in a building with great acoustics that had once been a synagogue, then a church, as well as other tips about don’t-miss sights and sounds of their ancient city. Because all the places we stayed had kitchens, we ate breakfast at “home” each morning. That meant we had to learn where the local markets were and how to communicate with the shop keeper. It also meant that we could pick out local cheeses and fresh produce to try. Even when we ate at restaurants, we made a point of trying to be “loca-vores” [someone who eats locally-sourced food from locally-sourced people]. In Porto, for example, we found a place called Concept 31. After a lovely locallysourced meal, the owner offered us some port as she explained the name of her restaurant. In local slang, when a situation appears so complicated as to have no solution, she said, the Portuguese refer to it as a “concept 31,” although she wasn’t sure why.

· Service Clubs (Rotary, Kiwanis, etc.) · Churches or Spiritual Practices · Sports Leagues, Clubs, or Facilities · Professional Organizations & Business Associations · College Alumni Clubs (yours or your children’s) · Hobby Organizations (bird watching, gardening) You’ll probably think of more, once you get going. The people you meet through your own interests can share personal insights into where you are. And, who knows? You might even make a new friend. 6. Be open to meeting new people and having new experiences. This is probably the most important of all recommendations. Throughout the course of any day or night, be on the look-out for an opportunity to talk with locals for authentic experiences. For example, we had a great Low-Season-Traveller moment at the Fado performance we went to in Coimbra at a venue named A Capella. When the show was over, we went to thank the singer, Deolinda Bernardo, and talk to the musicians. The only other remaining audience members were a tableful of local students who clearly had been studying the genre. The performers asked us all to stay a while. Midnight would mark the Fado singer’s birthday, and they wanted us all to wait and to celebrate with a glass of champagne. It turned into a whole other impromptu show with the students and professionals sharing Fado songs. The experience was enchanting, and it wouldn’t have happened if we had been in too big a rush to leave. And, finally, you probably know that wherever you go, if you learn the local word for “thank you,” and use it – you will be grateful you did!

The idea of “reading local” extends to your choice of museums, too. You can usually find museums that teach you about the locals. One example is the very creative Centro Interpretativo da História do Bacalhau (the Cod Museum) in Lisbon. There, you can experience interactive exhibits and learn that cod is more than a staple-food in Portugal. It’s a cultural and economic phenomenon.

Port in Porto anyone?

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4. Read local to be local Even before you leave home, you can learn a lot about your destination by finding local news sources online. There may be a local event or festival where you’re headed, or you may learn about a popular venue (for eating, dancing, or peoplewatching) that you can visit when you arrive.

Featured Destination: Melbourne

Melbourne Sport, music, art and good vibes all year around

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: June - August

Featured Destination: Melbourne By Rachel Jacgung

What Melbourne may lack in terms of stunning landmarks (like those in neighbouring Sydney), it more than makes up for with its diverse culture, cool attitude, buzzing nightlife, and all-round good vibes. There are still plenty of iconic and historic buildings to see. Just a few of these include the State Library, Flinders Street Station and the Old Melbourne Gaol, not to mention amazing shopping throughout the city from big brands, small boutiques and up and coming designers.

Despite many thinking that Australia is a sunny destination all year round, down south in Melbourne the winters can be a little chilly! Average daily temperatures range between 6 -16°C during winter, so still warmer than a European or North American winter in most places! In winter many Melburnians escape to sunnier Queensland and overseas visitors are more likely to choose a northern hemisphere destination for their overseas trip, making the winter months the best time to visit to escape the crowds, hang with the locals and soak up the lifestyle. While it’s colder than usual in the winter months, Melbourne’s mood lends itself to the cooler weather, with cosy cafes, big sporting events, and dark and moody bars around every corner.

Low Season Traveller

Melbourne – it’s a place where you’ll never have a bad meal, will leave a coffee snob, can experience four seasons in one day and where spending hours aimlessly wandering through a labyrinth of laneways and boutique shops will make for delightful afternoon!

Cricket at the world famous MCG

Featured Destination: Melbourne Café culture at its finest Melbourne’s coffee and brunch culture is next level. You can almost walk into any hole in the wall coffee shop or neighbourhood corner café and be guaranteed one of the best coffees of your life and a menu with Melbourne favourites and unique creations. Smashed avocado on toast is a staple in any café and every one puts its own spin on this cult favourite – with each iteration a little fancier than the last. Australians love craft beers and spirits such as gin or whiskey and Victoria is also home to many top-notch wineries, so be sure to check out these local drinks with some very interesting flavour combinations. Winter after dark Head to the Queen Victoria Market’s (QVM) Winter Night Market. Every Wednesday between June and August the iconic QVM comes alive at night with countless street food stalls serving delicious dishes from all over the world. You’ll also find open fires to keep warm, live music and a silent disco.

See a live music gig With more music venues per capita than any other city, Melbourne is often considered the music capital of the world! From small venues showcasing local up and coming artists, to unique laneway performances and the world’s biggest acts playing at huge stadiums, you’ll find a great performance in Melbourne on any night of the week. The gig guide will always tell you what’s on.

FOOD AND DRINK Tippy Tay – Italian This restaurant opened in 2021 inside the Garden State Hotel on Flinders Lane and will transport you to the Italian coast with its bright and bold interior. The menu is plentiful and designed for sharing. Every table has a bell – if you ring it your waiter will bring you a Negroni fountain!

The National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) runs NGV Friday Nights between June and October, where you can visit the gallery at night, see some of Australia’s best bands perform live in the great hall or dine at a pop-up bar.

Order a Negroni Fountain at Tippy Tay

QVM’s Winter Night Market

TOP EXPERIENCES Go to an AFL game Australian Rules Football*, or ‘footy’ season is in full swing during winter and the Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG) is an iconic Melbourne landmark one must experience. Games are usually held between Thursday and Sunday every week during. Oh, and you’ll have to pick a team to barrack for…just don’t choose the wrong one!

Big Esso by Mabu Mabu Run by Torres Strait Islander chef Nornie Bero, Big Esso uses ingredients native to Australia and the Torres Strait Islands to put a unique spin on cult favourites and introduce new dishes and ingredients you may not have heard of – think native salt and pepper crocodile or kangaroo tail and pepperberry bourguignon. Big Esso is located at Fed Square next to the Koori Heritage Trust, which is also well worth a visit! 1806 1806 is a moody, velvet-clad cosy cocktail bar that’s perfect for a winter soiree. Their cocktail and spirit list is extensive and the employees are extremely knowledgeable when it comes to drinks. If you want to learn how to make some swanky cocktails yourself, you can also book in for a masterclass with them.

Low Season Traveller

*Note that AFL is a unique game which is a quintessential part of Melbourne culture – it’s not rugby or football (soccer).

Hit the streets to enjoy the art Meander the streets to enjoy Melbourne’s unique street art. Hosier Lane and ACDC Lane are a couple of must-see streets, but you’ll find amazing art works and murals full of bright colours and bold messages around every corner. NGV is host to fantastic permanent and temporary exhibitions in the city centre.

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Featured Destination: Melbourne

Blockbuster shows like ‘Hamilton’ are popular year round

Low Season Traveller

Melbourne; home of the Australian Open tennis tournament

The stunning Webb Bridge at Melbourne Docklands

Coffee culture in Melbourne’s hip Laneways

Featured Destination: Melbourne

INSIDER TIPS •

It’s all about the hidden bar in Melbourne. If we don’t have to walk down a dingy laneway, past some dumpsters and then take a questionable lift up to a nondescript door to enter the bar, we’re not interested. So going to a hip ‘hidden bar’ is an absolute must. Berlin Bar, Fall From Grace (underneath State of Grace) and Goldilocks are some fun options to get you started.

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If you visit one museum or gallery in Melbourne, make it the NVG. The galleries house amazing permanent and temporary exhibitions and exciting events to get more people excited about art all year round.

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Make sure you get out to the suburbs during your stay. Places like Richmond, Fitzroy, Brunswick, Prahran or St Kilda are just a short tram or train ride from the CBD and all have fantastic cafes, street art and distinct personalities and vibes of their own.

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Melbourne’s weather is famously unpredictable. Even on a 40-degree day the temperature can drop to 16 in a matter of minutes. Always dress in layers so you can be warmer or cooler and bring an umbrella if you can!

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To ride public transport you’ll need to buy a MYKI card and top it up before you get on – unfortunately you can’t buy single use tickets. Much of the city centre is considered a ‘Free Tram Zone’, so make the most of this and take the trams around the CBD if walking isn’t suitable.

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The Traditional Owners of Melbourne, or ‘Naarm’, are the Wurundjeri, Bunurong and Boon Wurrung people. Learn more about Melbourne’s Aboriginal History at National Gallery Victoria, Koorie Heritage Trust or by taking a guided Aboriginal Heritage Walk in the Botanical Gardens.

Low Season Traveller

GOOD TO KNOW

s a w I e m i t t a h T travelling in… Reader’s stories

Low Season Traveller

Travelling in the low season will give you unique and local experiences. If you’re lucky, you might experience something that will have you retelling stories of your time in a destination at a dinner party, or around the campfire, for years to come. We asked our readers and social media followers to tell us their stories of amazing experiences they’ve had while travelling during the low season! Readers Bec and Lea told us about their travels in Brazil and Albania!

A stunning sunset in Alter do Chão

Brazil images provided by Bec O’Loughlin

Reader’s stories

Bec and her group slept in hammocks during the trip. we had smothered ourselves in the strongest mosquito repellent to ensure no mosquitos got us in the middle of the night, we settled in for the evening. Each night I was awoken to a variety of loud sounds coming from the forest. The wildlife was awake and having a party.

Bec’s unique Brazilian experience in Alter do Chão I’ve been fortunate enough to travel to Brazil on two occasions. The first one was on a Contiki trip which I had ‘won’ while working at the now non-existent STA travel. The second time was for a study tour, while I was studying my Masters of International Development. This unique experience took me to a small town in the northeast part of Brazil, called Alter do Chão.

Our last night in Alter do Chão was spent dancing under the stars to traditional Brazilian music, while sipping on caipirinhas.   Alter do Chão is a 45 minute car ride from Santarem where the closest domestic airport is.   Want to hear more about Bec’s adventure in Alter Do Chão? Listen to our podcast episode featuring Bec...

In the dry season, it turns into a local resort town where Brazilians flock to soak up the sun along the banks of the Tapajós River. In the wet season, the beach town resort becomes a quiet haven for fishermen due to the swelling of the river. I was there in June, while the river was still full to the banks and was regarded as the low season. We were the only tourists in sight.   One highlight of this experience was taking a boat down the Tapajós river to spend a few days in a small remote community called Comunidade de Jamaraquá, where we slept in hammocks in an open air bungalow.  We ate freshly caught river fish daily and bathed in the Tapajós. After

Comunidade de Jamaraquá

Low Season Traveller

Bec learned about how locals use the Pará tree during her visit to Brazil.

We met local Indigenous community members who shared their experiences of using resources available to them, like the Pará tree, (aka a rubber tree) which was the main income source for the region.  We experienced the process of making tapioca flour and we were taught about medicinal uses of the plants in the forest.

Reader’s stories Lea’s warm welcome during winter in Albania Did you ever imagine going hiking on a snow-capped mountain in the morning, walking along a lonely beach in the afternoon and being welcomed by the friendliest people with a fresh homecooked meal in the evening? Yes, this and so much more is possible in Albania during the winter. We visited for a 2-week road trip in February. We saw everything from cultural sites like Apollonia, beautiful towns like Gjirokastra, to amazing natural areas like Osumi Canyon, and wherever we went we were almost the only ones. I think one of the best experiences was how all the locals were so warm and welcoming. Everyone was always so surprised when we wanted to rent a room. They were like, “What inspired you to come here in winter?” But even though most of them weren’t prepared for guests, they went out of their way to make our stay comfortable. One organized an electrical heater for us on a stormy night, someone else prepared fresh breakfast from oranges and eggs, which we collected from her garden, and another gave us homemade wine.

For that “Wim Hoff” experience… At Lake Ohrid we had a conversation with a local and his two goats for 30 minutes in Albanian. He was so happy to see visitors that he didn’t want to stop smiling and chatting. Another special moment was hiking at Karavasta Lagoon and not meeting another single soul while spotting flocks of pelicans and flamingos. One of the best parts of our trip was definitely going to the hot springs in Permet. What better time to hop in a thermal bath than when it’s cold outside, with nobody around, so you can fully relax and take in the breathtaking view around you. Albania is a real hidden gem, I am telling you, especially in winter! we had smothered ourselves in the strongest mosquito repellent to ensure no mosquitos got us in the middle of the night, we settled in for the evening. Each night I was awoken to a variety of loud sounds coming from the forest. The wildlife was awake and having a party.   Albania is a real hidden gem, I am telling you, especially in winter!

Tell us your amazing low season travel story to be featured in the next issue! We all have an amazing travel story we pull out to brag to our friends about our most unique, crazy or profound travel experiences – and many of these take place during the low season months!

Low Season Traveller

We want to hear your best ‘round the campfire’, ‘can’t make this stuff up’ and ‘best experience of my life’ travel stories to publish in our next edition. You might even get the chance to share your story on our podcast!

Send us your story of 300-500 words, along with 2-3 high resolution images to editor@lowseasontraveller.com

Lea in Albania Albania images provided by Lea Lohmueller

Albania’s empty beaches (right)

Low Season Traveller

Reader’s stories

Travel Quiz

Trivia expert, travel writer and former Broadcast Producer Victor Dorff joins us as our ‘Quizmaster’ for this issue, sharing fun and unique facts about some of our favourite destinations. Can you guess which destination Victor is talking about based on the photos and clues below?

Looking for Rufous-tailed Waters, Striolated Bunting, and Sooty Falcons? Then you are definitely a birder, and this destination is for you. You can see those species and a host of others in a variety of habitats, including white sand beaches, lagoons, and mangroves.

You’ll have a hard time out-running the police in this destination, because they’ll be driving Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and Maseratis. The department says the cars encourage the public to engage with the police on friendly terms. They even plan to acquire a Tesla Cybertruck.

Low Season Traveller

Just outside this destination, there is a pool hall and bar named after someone you might least expect. “Bin Laden’s Cavern” is just one of the Osama-binLaden themed pubs in this country.

Travel Quiz

Be careful what you ask for in this destination. The nearest hotel might actually be a snack-bar. The word “hotel” has two different meanings here. It could be a place where you spend the night, but it could also be a restaurant or even a simple source of junk food.

This destination is the original source of tempura. Yes, that crispy Japanese delicacy was originally brought from another country as battered and fried green beans in the 16th Century. The Japanese get credit for using the recipe on everything else.

The Guinness Book of World Records says the world’s first full-length feature film was made in this destination. It told the story about a notorious criminal gang and was first shown in the Town Hall in 1906.

This destination has the deepest geothermal hot spring in the world. How deep? No one knows. No one has ever hit the bottom. The longest line ever dropped into the water was 1002 ft. (305.41 m), so that’s the measurement that’s used to qualify it as the deepest.

Low Season Traveller

NO8DO is the abbreviation of this destination’s motto. A 13th Century king bestowed the phrase, “It has not left me,” to acknowledge that the people there remained loyal when his son tried to take the thrown.

LOW SEASON TRAVEL MAKES YOU FEEL FREE

Low Season Traveller - Issue 2

Articles inside

Sri Lanka's Great Reset

Low Season Melbourne

Low Season Seville

Food focus: San Francisco

Our Pick of Top 10 Low Season Stays

Our low season adventure

Under The Radar Cultural Heritage Icons

Our Guide, Warren Pearson, on Africa

Low Season Sri Lanka

Editor’s note

Low Season Oman

Low Season in Rio

Where the Wildflowers are...

Fly to Rome for the price of a Pizza...