Low Season Traveller - Issue 3 by Low Season Traveller

TRAVELLER LOW S E A SON

Issue 3 December 2022

ANDALUCIA’S CULTURAL WONDERS Low season delights in sultry southern Spain

RAILWAY TO HEAVEN

We check out the Venice Simplon Orient Express in the low season

HOTELS & SUSTAINABILITY How to spot greenwashing and choose truly eco hotels

M AGA Z INE

BELLA ITALIA The case for Italy in the festive season

FEATURED DESTINATIONS:

MONTENEGRO PUGLIA NEPAL PHILADELPHIA TANZANIA BALI AND MUCH MORE...

Meet the team Featured and Destinations contributors

? n e p p a h t i e d Who ma Publishing

This edition’s guest stars

Contributors Ged Brown

Publisher and CEO at Low Season Traveller Ged is the founder and CEO of Low Season Traveller; the world’s first organisation completely dedicated to the promotion of travel during the off-peak seasons in each destination as a way to alleviate the growing problem of over-tourism. A passionate advocate of the advantages of tourism, Ged has spent his entire career working with leading travel and tourism organisations.

Lisa TE Sonne Editor-at-Large

An award-winning writer who explored seven continents, dove many seas, and wrote for airline, Time-Life, and National Geographic media. Her books include “My Adventures” and “The Great Outdoors” for Quarto Publishers. Wrote for Oscar-winning and Emmy-winning projects. Cofounder- CharityChecks.org; member of Space. com’s launch team and The Explorers Club.

Tony Hallwood Business Development Director

Tony’s career has covered senior director roles for major travel companies including SAGA, Cosmos, Airtours and My Travel. Tony’s strengths are building strong partnerships with airlines, tour operators and national tourism partners alongside maximising his extensive PR and media experience to promote a wide range of new destinations, routes and services.

Claire French Claire has crossed the globe, living and working on 6 continents. She’s now working on Low Season Traveller feature pieces and dreaming of her next adventure from her narrow boat home on a quiet stretch of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, where it seems to be permanently low season.

Ryan Maley Ryan believes that travel truly makes people better, more well-rounded, and culturally intelligent. He’s keen to ensure that travel is accessible for all and believes that low season travel uniquely offers this opportunity, as well as the ability to connect more deeply with the communities that they visit.

Chris Flynn

Chris is a member of the LST Advisory Board and is also the Founder & Executive Chairman of The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage. With more than 30 years’ experience in international tourism, Chris is a regular speaker at high profile international events and provides insights to leading news media channels such as BBC World News Asia Business Report.

Andrea Grisdale As Founder of IC Bellagio, Andrea is a very vocal advocate of the travel industry, inspiring students at colleges and universities to follow in her footsteps with her many speaking engagements. She is also very conscious of the role inspiration plays for her staff as well, encouraging IC Bellagio staff to travel abroad and offering exciting career development opportunities.

Kate Burgess Kate is a passionate traveller and ex-San Francisco resident. Her love of travel and food are intertwined with no trip being complete without filling her stomach up to the point of bursting. As a tourism marketing professional Kate knows how to avoid the tourist traps and discover the mouth-watering authentic meals of a city.

Pauline Van Beneden

Our mission is to make the hotel industry more sustainable by guiding hotels in every aspect of their businessand keeping in mind the base principles of sustainability: making a positive impact on the environment, the society and the economy. Pauline is the co-Founder of the Ecotel Consultancy where their mission is to make the global hotel industry more sustainable but guiding hotels in every aspect of their business whilst keeping in mind the basic principles of sustainability: making a positive impact on the environment, the society and the economy.

Design Chris McNicholl

Advertising: Get in touch with Tony Hallwood at: Tony@lowseasontraveller.com

Low Season Traveller

Owner of Overflowcreative.com

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Featured Destinations

Note

From the Editor Well, autumn has well and truly arrived here in the North of England and whilst we have had an interesting few months with the passing of Her Majesty the Queen, the arrival of our third Prime Minister in just three months and an uncertain economy to face down this winter, at least we appear to have come through the worst of the Covid Pandemic as life and travel appear to be returning to normality. And whilst that normality is packing the peak seasons in destinations all over the world, more people are realising just how much better the experience is during the quieter, calmer low season months where there is little transport chaos, more ability to interact with the locals and yet still the perfect opportunity to appreciate the cultural, natural and historical elements of each destination. I was recently invited to speak about cultural heritage tourism in the low seasons at an event in Valencia, Spain, and I was reminded just how incredibly beautiful this city is. Often overlooked for Barcelona or Madrid, Valencia is truly one of the most captivating cities you will find and it also has the most wonderfully sunny and mild climate all year around. If you have never been, I highly recommend you look into visiting soon. And just today as I write this, Valencia has been awarded the European Green Capital for 2024. My advice; go before everyone else discovers just how amazing this city is! Italy is one of those destinations which is perennially popular with tourists year after year. I was recently invited to provide a keynote speech on the advantages of low season travel to an audience of Italian travel suppliers in Como. I was struck at just how incredibly beautiful Lake Como is during the bright, crisp autumn months and without any crowds at all of course. Reading up on Claire’s article on Puglia this edition, I am certainly keen to visit this region before the heat of the summer peak season begins.

Also In this edition, we feature low season guides to Bali, Nepal, Montenegro, Philadelphia and Tanzania, we feature the fabulous Venice Simplon Orient Express, the hidden gems of Andalucia and as always some incredible cultural wonders which you might not be aware of. One thing is for certain, this edition provides a myriad of sensational low season options. I look forward to seeing you for our first edition of 2023 when we will be bringing you to Jersey, Dublin, Tahiti and many more exciting destinations. Take good care, and...Happy Holidays!

Ged Brown Founder & CEO, Low Season Traveller

Contribute to Low Season Traveller Magazine We’re looking to grow our team of amazing contributors that are sharing their top tips and best bits of low season travel in LST Magazine. If you’re an avid writer, traveller and are passionate about sustainable travel and combating the issue of over tourism, we’d love to hear from you! Get in touch at editor@lowseasontraveller.com

Low Season Traveller

Hello and a warm welcome to this third issue of Low Season Traveller Magazine.

Contents Switzerland

Netherland Venice Simplon Orient Express Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Arizona

Maryland

Featured destination Low season journey Podcast

Low Season Traveller

Cultural heritage

The low down Reader’s stories Niche within a niche

Bolivia

Andalucía Puglia, Italy

Contributors..............................................................................02

Cultural heritage icons..........................................................48

Editor’s note..................................................................................02

Andalucía’s cultural wonders.............................................53

Featured destination: Tanzania......................................... 07

Note from our partners..........................................................58

Featured destination: Montenegro...................................15

Top 10 best stays.........................................................................60

Venice Simplon Orient Express............................................21

Featured destination: Bali, Indonesia...............................65

Featured destination: Puglia, Italy.....................................27

Hotels and sustainability........................................................71

Featured destination: Nepal................................................33

Top 5 travel podcasts...........................................................75

Featured destination: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania....41

ds Romania

Montenegro Japan

Rhodes Iran Nepal

Uganda

Nepal

Australia

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Tanzania

Featured Destination: Tanzania

TANZANIA Iconic savannah panoramas, unfettered Serengeti wildlife, huge volcanic craters

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Low Season: June - September

Featured Destination: Tanzania By Claire French

Adventurers take note, the dry mild Tanzanian winter June to September, is doubtlessly considered the peak visitor season with the very best game viewing. Not least it’s the time of the renowned migration when huge herds cross from the Serengeti to the Masaai Mara. But it is also the time of great crowds and inflated prices. Consider instead your low season alternatives during the wetter months. With November’s short rains come a long-awaited beauty and freshness, although any flooding dries up quickly. The longer rains of March to May bring heavier downpours which turn off less intrepid explorers who sadly miss the

dramatic skies and lush wildflower-filled scenery. This leaves fabulous crowd free opportunities for the rest of us wanting to hike to The Roof of Africa, set foot in a Masaai warrior village and embark on incredible safari adventures. The Popular Northern Circuit You can’t blame the hordes for wanting to get the best of Tanzania. This mega-popular route takes in Arusha National Park with its views of Kilimanjaro, the Rift Valley, and Tarangire and Lake Manyara National Parks. The Ngorongoro Conservation Area, a haven for birds and animals, is a 19km wide crater and a grand spot for hiking, while the plains of the Serengeti are a huge draw with some of the continent’s most superb wildlife viewing. It’s not unusual to spot lions, giraffes, elephants, zebras and wildebeest on the same day particularly from June to September when you’ll pay top prices and find the biggest crowds. Likewise, the January-February wildebeest calving attracts many tourists, their cameras and their cash. Try instead October-November or March-May. Yes, the green season brings rains, but these northern hotspots offer good game viewing year-round while Lake Manyara attracts in summer thousands of migratory birds, flamingos, pelicans, storks and spoonbills. A twitchers’ paradise which inspired Hemingway to call the lake “the loveliest I had seen in Africa.”

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Bumping by 4WD through the salmon pink light of dusk and ever hopeful of glimpsing a snow-capped Kilimanjaro, you begin to feel a stirring, a drum beat in your heart and an inkling of a sense of the power of this place. You think maybe you might know what Hemingway was getting at when he professed his passion in the acclaimed 1935 novel ‘The Green Hills of Africa’. “Now, being in Africa, I was hungry for more of it, the changes of the seasons, the rains…the discomforts …the names of the trees, of the small animals, and all the birds”. Here, among the dust and the dirt is a readiness that is like shot of adrenaline in your soul, an unrefined rawness, a fabled wilderness on the edge of the Indian Ocean. Here you are in the home of ‘The Lion King’, at the very cradle of civilisation.

Featured Destination: Tanzania The Hidden Gems of the South Break the mould with the lesser-known southern safari circuit, more heavily forested with a diverse landscape and undisturbed nature. This route is generally accessed from the capital Dar es Salaam’s Julius Nyerere International Airport and onwards by small plane. Explore, Selous, Africa’s largest game reserve, the size of Switzerland, three times bigger than Kruger. It’s home to thousands of lions, wildebeest, hippos, leopards, zebras and crocodiles, and yet many people have never heard of this UNESCO treasure. The reserve is crossed by the River Rufiji, the country’s largest, which forms a unique ecosystem of swamps, channels and lakes offering unforgettable boat safaris. Ruaha National Park provides a different experience again, with animals distinct from those in the north, such as the endangered wild dog and several unusual antelope species as well as huge prides of lion. This circuit is fairly uncrowded year-round, and but becomes very muddy in the heaviest rains and many accommodation providers pack up. Those that remain open through November to May though provide good value for money, exclusive experiences with excellent local guides who are skilled at seeking out optimum wildlife opportunities.

TOP EXPERIENCES Pemba & Mafia Islands Zanzibar remains the classic end to your safari-beach combo, but for a less commercialised alternative try other idyllic isles in the archipelago, namely Pemba or Mafia. Relax on beautiful white sand Indian Ocean beaches, snorkel coral reefs and dive with huge but harmless whale sharks. Cubs, Pups and & Calves Low season January to February sees the arrival of offspring among Tanzania’s herds. Who doesn’t love seeing baby elephants, zebras and giraffes running alongside their mothers? Be warned you’ll also experience larger predators attacking the fresh prey. It is the circle of life after all.

Serengeti Zebra Run Nyama Choma Perfectly grilled beef or goat is a favourite dish in Tanzania. Always fresh and slowly grilled to your liking over a bed of hot charcoal, seasoned with salt and pepper or marinated with onions, garlic and ground ginger. Served with barbecued bananas or a spicy salad of chopped tomatoes and onion. Chapatis Brought into East Africa by trade routes from the Asian sub-continent, unleavened chapatis are a treat for special occasions. They make for an exciting change to the starchy ugali maize staple usually served with meals. Fun to make and eat with a range of colourful sauces, veggies and meats.

Empakaai Crater A lesser-known neighbour of the huge Ngorongoro Crater, stunning Empakaai lies about 40km away. A deep soda lake covers half of its 6km wide caldera, and is frequented by elephant, buffalo, hyena and flamingo. The 45-minute hike into the crater is a beautiful if slightly challenging experience.

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FOOD & DRINK

Street BBQ, Stonetown, Zanzibar At sunset the picturesque Forodhani Gardens along the Stonetown seafront transforms into an exciting night food market. Choose from an array of culinary delights like Zanzibar pizza and fresh seafood. Be prepared to barter, remember no alcohol is allowed and watch out for pickpockets. Chapatis Maasai Welcome (Right) Afircan elephants in morning mist (page over)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Tanzania

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Tanzania

Featured Destination: Destinations Tanzania

Shepherd leading his flock

Lion and lioness courting

Lake Natron Flamingoes

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Kilimanjaro summit

Lilac Breasted Roller

Playful cubs

Featured Destination: Tanzania

INSIDER TIPS • Favourite add-ons to the north or south circuit are the Gombe National Park or the Mahale Mountains in the west of the country. Both parks are full of primates, yellow baboons, red colobus, blue-tailed monkeys and a thousand chimpanzees as well as beautiful beaches and lush forest.

• Tanzania is a very conservative country with a sizable Muslim population. Homosexuality is strictly illegal, and public displays of affection are frowned upon. Although travellers may be used to a more open-minded society, remember you are a visitor, wear long loose clothing and be respectful.

• The Oldupai Gorge is one of the most important paleo-anthropological sites in the world. It holds the remains of the earliest hominins ever found. These were discovered by archaeologists in 1959 and include the skull of the ‘Nutcracker Man’, believed to have lived about 1.75 million years ago.

GOOD TO KNOW • If you take on Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak at 5898m, balance the weather with the crowds. Most people make the attempt in dry JanFeb or Aug-Sept. Consider March or October avoiding both the heaviest rains and biggest crowds and note that the northern Rongai route remains the driest.

• Many of the best safaris take place camping out in pristine wilderness as per the explorers of old. These camps can be comfortable with electricity provided by generator, good wholesome good food and bucket showers. If you can do without wi-fi for a few days, it is such an incredible experience. Tanzanian itinerary. It’s pretty clear that the welcome dance, school tour and souvenir selling are specially arranged for tourists, but don’t let that put you off. It’s a great way to learn about Maasai culture, snap some pics and give funds to the community.

LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

Low Season Traveller

• Visiting a Maasai village is often up there on a

Featured Destination: Montenegro

MONTENEGRO Laid back Mediterranean gem of historic towns and dark mountains

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: November - March

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Montenegro

Featured Destination: Destinations Montenegro By Claire French ‘At the birth of our planet the most beautiful encounter between the land and the sea.’ So said poet Lord Byron of this small Balkan country, nestled on the Adriatic coast between Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina and Serbia. Home to just 600,000 inhabitants, Montenegro gained independence in 2006 and has rapidly won notoriety in its own right for summer beach life, medieval quarters, delicious delicacies and seriously Instagrammable scenery. Many of the 1.6 million annual visitors are attracted by peak season sunshine, adventure sports, and beautiful beaches. They are increasingly enjoying the fruits of significant investments made in infrastructure, luxury 5* hotel chains and fast free wi-fi. However, choose to experience Montenegro during low season, November to March, and you’ll find an authentic winter hideaway offering excellent value for money. The crowds of summer fade away, allowing you to engage with locals and enjoy activities in relative peace, buying artisan hand-made products and filling up on traditional mouthwatering cuisine. Plus, it’s so easy to get around. In a single day you can visit the mountainous north for a ski fix and a few hours later, be back at the beach for predinner cocktails in the mild winter sun.

Low Season Traveller

Coastal Fjords & Old Towns The twisting Montenegrin coastline is blessed with towering cliffs and rocky shores sheltering no fewer than 117 beaches from tiny, pebbled coves to 13km stretches of sand. With average low season temperatures of 10°C you might not be catching rays on the beach, but it’s perfect for strolling by the sea and exploring the coast’s picturesque old towns and villages. The historic centres once more belong to the locals as summer day trippers trail off. Roman, Venetian, Ottoman and more recent occupiers have all left their mark resulting in unique architecture, monuments and fascinating tales. Explore Ulcinj, a former pirate town; beautiful Tivat with its superyacht marina; Budva, which at 2500 years old, is the oldest urban centre in the Adriatic; Kotor with its February masquerade carnival; or Herceg Novi known for its beautiful structures, many steps and gorgeous mimosa festival that celebrates the start of each spring. Hire a car and find your favourite.

Adventures in the Rural North Head inland from the coast visiting family farms with wine and food tastings and experiencing live music, dancing and a traditional village lifestyle. Drive through woods, lakes, and pastures to reach UNESCO protected Durmitor National Park. Here there’s a stunning view of the Black Lake and an easy 4 km track around the lake meandering past historic caves and grazing cattle. Nearby, don’t miss Tara River Canyon the second deepest in the world, after the Grand Canyon itself. Montenegro boasts 4 other national parks including Lovcen and Lake Skadar. This latter is one of the biggest bird reserves in Europe with 280

species of birds including the rare kudrava pelican. Lake Skadar is also known to have the best wine in Montenegro, delicious with smoked lake carp. Finally, wherever your Montenegrin adventure takes you, you’ll never be far from the slopes of one of the foreboding mountain ranges that give this special place its name. Whether you climb the snowy peaks, or take an autumnal hike along the rushing streams, you’ll adore low season Montenegro.

TOP EXPERIENCES Explore Boka Bay The beautiful winding bay was designated a region of Natural, Cultural, And Historical significance by UNESCO in 1979. It’s packed with small towns and exquisite Orthodox and Catholic churches. Highlights are Kotor’s city walls, St. John’s Fortress, St. Tryphon Cathedral, Perast town and Our Lady of The Rocks islet. Cycle or E-Bike Lustica Bay peninsula The 20 km off-road ride will take you from the village of Tici, where you can taste local farm products, up Obosnik Hill, and through Luštica’s most interesting quaint villages. Take in the open Adriatic Sea views and Austro-Hungarian coastal fortresses of Mamula and Arza. A stunning ride at any time of year. Lovcen Mountain Visit glorious Lovcen National Park and its much-revered mountain, reaching a peak of 1749 metres. Locals love the picturesque hiking trails especially in autumn and spring, with views of almost the entire country. The mountain is also home to the mausoleum of Njegoš, the great Montenegrin ruler.

FOOD & DRINK Traditional Delights Pick up local snacks from street stalls and bakeries. Favourites are pogača (homemade bread), burek (filo stuffed with cheese, meat, spinach), raštan (a leafy green veg) with smoked meat, or priganice (dough balls) with honey and cheese. Rakija Every autumn families all around the country brew the grapes to make this strong brandy in a tradition dating back generations. It is said to cure everything from viruses to stomachache. Be warned, it is often 40-80% alcohol. Seafood Restaurants Don’t miss the small coastal restaurants serving up the freshest fish dishes. Try the fish grilled or fried, or ask for buzara - shellfish in a herby red or white wine sauce; or black risotto made from cuttlefish ink, garlic and nutmeg.

Featured Destination: Montenegro

Homemade moonshine or ‘rakija’

Low Season Traveller

Freshly grilled squid

Featured Destination: Destinations Montenegro INSIDER TIPS • Montenegro celebrates Christmas twice, once in December for Catholics and again on January 7th for Christian Orthodox Montenegrins. The entire period is filled with wholesome festivities for family and friends. Don’t be surprised in rural areas to hear gunshots being fired in celebration.

• 1355 little steps are all that separate you from the best view in Boka Bay. Impressive San Giovanni (St John’s) Fortress dates from the 9th century, and no visit to Kotor is complete without a hike to the top. The stunning views take in the whole bay, Mt Vrmac and Kotor harbour and old town.

The harbour at Kotor Bay

• If conditions are too cold or fast for white watering rafting, see Tara Canyon from the magnificent Djurdjevica Bridge, once the biggest vehicular concrete arch bridge in Europe. It towers 172 metres above the riverbed below. Autumn brings fabulous fall colours to adorn the wild landscape.

GOOD TO KNOW • There are two small airports in Montenegro, in

Old town of Ulcinj

the capital Podgorica and at Tivat in Boka Bay. In low season there are far fewer international direct flights so you may need to opt for connecting options. Arriving into Croatia’s Dubrovnik, just over an hour from the border, is one idea.

• Car hire is easy and well-priced, especially with low season discounts. Use the advantage of the small and diverse country to experience every hidden coner. With excellent networks, you can explore the coast, mountains, villages and coves that public transport doesn’t reach.

• Capital city Podgorica is worth a visit for good,

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affordable culinary offerings. However, if you are a history and culture fan, we’d rather recommend the old royal capital, Cetinje. Its monastery of 1701 and is said to house the right hand of John the Baptiste, while Lipa Cave is just 3 miles away.

LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

St George Island Lovcen Mountains National Park

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Featured Destination: Montenegro

The Railway to Heaven

Low Season Traveller

The Railway To

The Railway to Heaven

Heaven

The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express operates in December for the first time.

By Sally Hauser

The train runs from March to December on a variety of routes including the original Paris to Istanbul, the most frequent route between London and Venice/Verona, as well as periodically to Florence, Innsbruck, Geneva, Vienna, Prague and Budapest. “Sally, you’re going on the [Venice Simplon-]OrientExpress…!” were not words I had ever imagined myself hearing, and when I did I have no shame in admitting that I had a tear in my eye and felt almost nauseous with excitement. Not solely because it’s the ultimate journey for someone whose job is all about trains; in addition to that, over the years, I had spent many an afternoon in my grandmother’s room in our family home, engrossed in the adventures of one impeccably-moustached Hercule Poirot of “Murder on the Orient Express” fame. My grandmother had passed away earlier that same year and it was a very special thing to be offered - I was absolutely delighted. Once you have discovered the joy of travelling by train, it gets in the blood; you start to loathe airports and baggage reclaim and look to see how much of your trip could conceivably be completed by rail. Rail travel is also a great way to decrease your carbon-footprint, but that doesn’t mean you can’t do it in style! The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is – without a doubt – the most sought-after rail travel journey of all, if not a

highly-coveted travel experience in its own right outside the realms of rail enthusiasts. When I meet people for the first time and tell them what I do for a living, the first thing they ask me is almost always “have you been on [Venice Simplon-] Orient-Express?”, and of course, I can reply “Yes, I have!” It’s a brilliant ice-breaker and something I am immensely pleased to have done – I am also extremely grateful to have been given the opportunity. After a couple of nights in Venice, I was met at my hotel and personally escorted by Belmond’s representatives to St Lucia station. I boarded the train at around 11am on a very grey and rainy day in October but the dismal weather was soon chased away by the warm and cheerful smiles from members of the immaculate on-board team who are there to proudly welcome you on the red-carpeted platform (including the Chief Steward, the Maitre D’ and Head Chef). An equallyamenable steward will escort you to your private cabin and give you something cool and fizzy, served in dazzling cutglass, to help you settle in and unwind. By this point in my career, I had talked about this train to customers and colleagues alike at great length, so I knew a lot about it, but I was not prepared for quite how incredible it is. It’s important to take your time and really appreciate the detail of your surroundings and thus you will understand why it comes with the price-tag. Each unique carriage has been lovingly restored and has its own fascinating history details of which can be found in an inscribed plaque at each entrance way - so I walked along the train reading about the origins of some of these near-100-year-old passenger cars. For instance, some were built in France, some in England,

Low Season Traveller

Sally Hauser shares her experience of travelling from Venice to London on the most famous rail experience of all time, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, which will operate in December for the very first time in 2022 – connecting the cities of Paris and Venice by luxury rail in low season.

The Railway to Heaven some have connections with royalty across Europe, several formed part of the famous luxury train Le Train Bleu in the late 1920s, some were decorated by the renowned designer Rene Prou and one even has a rather more saucy past as a brothel during the Second World War! The oldest of all, dating back to 1926, is Sleeping Car 3309, which formed part of the rolling stock of the original “Orient Express”, travelling on the route between Paris to Istanbul and was marooned for 10 days in a snow drift outside Istanbul – an incident which became the inspiration for the afore-mentioned worldfamous and critically acclaimed crime novel “Murder on The Orient Express” by Agatha Christie. Each carriage features different decorative touches to the last; the colours of the wood in the corridors and the exquisite patterns in the marquetry within the bijou cabins change as you go along the train – which you should absolutely do! - for me one of the most exciting parts of the trip was walking along the corridors, you really feel like you’re on a movie set, or have gone back in time by a century. The wood-paneling is so pristine you can see your face in it, and I loved how the light and reflections from the picture-windows bounced off the polished wood as the train made its way along the tracks, shifting slightly from side-to-side as it goes. In my cabin was a beautiful frieze of tiny hand-cut pieces of wood collated into a colourful arrangement of flowers and foliage, set against the dark cherry-coloured wood of the cabin walls and door. Even the upholstery throughout the train is intricately elaborate, finished with lace head and armrests. A set of wooden doors opens a self-lighting vanity unit, complete with mirror, sink with running hot and cold water, plug socket for shavers or small hairdryers and a (frankly, fabulous) toiletries kit at your disposal. Elegant blue-and-white kimono dressing gowns are provided for you to lounge in and after an afternoon of watching the European countryside go by from your cabin with high tea, or with your fellow travelers in the Bar Car “3674”, it’s time to get ready for dinner. Dress to impress… There is no such thing as overdressed here!

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Dinner is a sumptuous affair, in both surroundings and culinary delights. The dining cars feature some of the most ornate and impressive marquety of all, with detailed Rene Lalique glassware and paneling lending an overall feeling of opulence. Then there is the food… it is nothing short of exceptional, cooked fresh in the train’s tiny galley kitchen by the team of chefs, using seasonal produce from the regions the train passes through and served on the finest china and silverware. After dinner, enjoy a cocktail and mingle in the bar area which, along with its resident pianist, will remain at your disposal until the last person is standing.

By whatever time you decide to retire, your steward (who is available 24/7) will have transformed your cabin into cosy sleeping quarters with pristine linens to slip into as the train continues its voyage throughout the night, gently rocking you to sleep. When you awake, simply call for your steward at a time of your choice and they will bring a mouth-watering array of Image courtesy of Venice Simplon Orient Express

The Railway to Heaven INSIDER TIPS • Travelling in the lower seasons generally means a lower price tag and better availability – the train is VERY popular. Although less popular in winter as there is less daylight, in my opinion this journey is all about the train and the experience of travelling on it.

• Really study the details of the train, it really is magnificent.

• Watch the “Murder on the Orient Express” movie beforehand to get you in the mood (although it doesn’t do the train justice!)

GOOD TO KNOW • Historic Twin Cabins (standard twins) feature upper and lower births and shared bathroom facilities. Image courtesy of Venice Simplon Orient Express freshly ground coffee, teas and pastries for you to sample. Once you have freshened up it is time for brunch and complimentary fizz as you make your way from Calais, through the Eurotunnel by luxury motor coach and on to the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express’ British counterpart, the British Pullman, a Belmond Train, to complete the final leg of the journey between Folkestone and London Victoria (please note this section does not run in December).

• Whilst the train cannot cater for wheelchairs,

ENHANCE THE EXPERIENCE: In 2018, the Grand Suites were introduced affording the highest level of comfort with full double beds, private dining and lounge area, full en-suite shower room, and free-flowing Champagne along with a host of other luxuries. Travel in style at its very best!

• There is wifi but phones must be on silent

those with reduced mobility can request cabins close to the restaurant and bars.

• There a scheduled stops to stretch your legs on the platform if you wish.

• Most dietary requirements can be catered for

NEW FOR 2023: Belmond have revealed eight stunning new suites available to book on board the iconic Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, meaning there are now three different ways to enjoy a journey on the most famous train of all time. The new suites feature lower beds (double or twin) and private en-suite facilities, offering a more luxurious alternative to the existing entry-level Historic Twin Cabins and bridging the price gap to the highest category Grand Suites. They will be available on journeys departing from June 2023 onwards, and are subject to availability. These cabins have been designed with the landscape in mind, taking inspiration from the forests, lakes, mountains and countryside of Europe to create a beautiful new intermediate offering. (suites incur a supplement where available)

Image courtesy of Venice Simplon Orient Express

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with advance notice.

Low Season Traveller

The Railway to Heaven

Experience it for yourself NEW! Festive Paris and The Venice Simplon Orient Express On this short tour you’ll spend three days in Paris, with free time to wander the Christmas Markets and marvel at the “City of Light” in its full festive glory, before boarding the most famous train of all and heading to Venice for a brief stay. Departing from London St. Pancras 5th December 2023 (other dates are available throughout 2023)

What’s included: •

Eurostar from London to Paris

•

2 nights’ 4-star accommodation in Paris with breakfast

•

Overnight full board journey on the Venice SimplonOrient-Express from Paris to Venice

•

Overnight 4-star accommodation in Venice with breakfast

•

Flight from Venice to UK

•

Overseas transfers

5 days from £3,999pp This package is also available in reverse and if you’d like to add rail back to the UK for a more sustainable option please ask.

sales@fredholidays.co.uk https://www.fredholidays.co.uk/rail-journeys

0800 038 1664 Terms & Conditions Price shown is subject to availability, based on 2 people sharing a twin/double room/standard twin cabin (upper and lower berth) on Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, departing London St Pancras on 6th December 2022. Eurostar may be in Standard Class, Standard Premier or Business Premier, depending on availability at time of departure. Price correct at the time of advertising and is subject to change. Full Fred.\ Holidays T&C apply. *Free champagne is one bottle per cabin on 2022 December departures.

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Call the Travel Specialists at Fred.\ Holidays (part of the Fred. Olsen group) to arrange your journey-of-a-lifetime today on:

Featured Destination: Puglia, Italy

PUGLIA, ITALY Discover the best kept secrets of the heel of Italy

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Low Season: October - April

Featured Destination: Puglia, Italy By Claire French

With over 800km of coastline and a strategically important location on the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, the region has historically been a scene of conflict and occupation with Ottomans, Greeks and Spanish all leaving marks of their heritage. Nowadays Puglians seem to have embraced the opposite vibe, enjoying a peaceful, laid-back attitude to life. Until, that is, night falls and locals take to the streets for their evening passiega. That’s when shops reopen, families come out and bars

are filled. You’ll find some tourists for sure, but these are mostly attracted by the high temperatures and buzzing beach life of the summer holiday period. From midOctober through to early April though, you’re up for a less crowded, more enhanced, low season experience. Wintertime in Puglia is very mild and although the coolest months of January and February can dip below 10°C, low season mostly remains moderately warm especially when compared with northern Europe. Showers are possible with the Salento area seeing the least rainfall, but when rain does come it tends to be brief and there are still plenty of clear, sunny days. In fact, when summer’s blistering highs cool down, that’s the perfect time to visit Puglia’s charming, whitewashed towns, see the stunning architecture of Renaissance cities and explore row after row of the olive groves of this beautiful region. Low season Puglia offers a real chance to find an authentic Italy, connecting with the southern land and people on a much deeper level than at any other time of the year.

Low Season Traveller

Remember that dream you had of wine flowing from petrol pumps like endless gallons of the best unleaded? That is no dream, that is Puglia. This still somehow lesser-known region of Italy’s south-eastern heel is one of Europe’s glorious hidden treasures. Not least, it boasts the very top picks for wineries with over 200 producers and 25 dominations of origin. The more discerning among us may choose to experience fine dining at an upmarket wine resort featuring the exquisite raisiny reds that Puglia excels in. But you can do a whole lot worse than rock up at a local consorzio for ‘vino alla spina’, literally wine on tap, and dispense your own very acceptable five litre haul for a dreamy €8.

Featured Destination: Destinations Puglia, Italy Stunning Coastline Puglia is surrounded by clear blue waters to rival those of the Maldives and Seychelles. Okay, you might not be enjoying watersports or sunbathing in winter, but the scenic coastal areas are still great for low season activities. The Salento peninsula especially is known for its historic watchtowers and unique limestone formations, and Porto Selvaggio National Park is a favourite place for exploring miles of pine trails, sandy coves, and wildlife hideaways. Drive along the rocky coast of the Gargano promontory that makes up the spur of the Italian boot, running 140km past ancient forests, spectacular cliffs and the famous faraglioni white rocks jutting from the Adriatic.

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Historic Centres Visitors to Puglia are taken aback time and again by just how many surprises are waiting round every corner. Each town delights with a charming personality, architectural masterpiece, or world heritage site to rival those of the much better-known centres of Northern Italy. Low season is the perfect time to take a bicycle tour of the city of Lecce, said to be the Florence of the south. Take your time exploring the beautiful squares, Roman amphitheatre, and the stunning Baroque masterpiece that is the façade of the Basilica di Santa Croce. Ostuni, the White City, is painted entirely with whitewash and offers a sparkling view to those who climb to the highest part of the city where you’ll find the Santa Maria Cathedral. Locorotondo is the prettiest of towns with its flower filled circular centre and narrow streets surrounded by olive groves. Alberobello is a must-see, with its distinctive Trulli, the peculiar cone shaped huts which date from 3000BC and are now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Check out the Roman seaside town of Monopoli and its harbour filled with small blue fishing boats, or just up the coast, lovely Polignano a Mare where you can walk in the old town and enjoy views from Terrazza Santo Stefano.

Great Culinary Tradition One activity that is most definitely available year-round is eating. Mouthwatering Puglian cuisine is to die for. Wonderful multi-generational tavernas, bars and bakeries abound with traditional home-cooked fare like mamma used to make. Cooking classes run from family homes are a great way to spend a low season afternoon. Local specialties include ‘orecchiette’ an ear-shaped pasta served with turnip tops, garlic and ricotta cheese; lemon custard pie from Lecce; the freshest seafood; and super soft burrata cheese handmade from mozzarella and cream. Visit Altamura where renowned bakeries sit side by side with ornate Romanesque architecture. The heavenly scent of hot fresh out of oven focaccia, taralli bread rings or pettole dough balls dipped in local olive oil might be just the finest experience of your low season adventure.

TOP EXPERIENCES Cycle through Puglia’s Culinary and Architectural History Hop on two wheels and join an expert biking guide to get your cultural fix while getting a workout. Itineraries include routes which stop at a 15th century Masseria farmhouse to taste olive oils and then continuing to the lovely hilltop villages of Cisternino and Ostuni. Learn how to make cheese in Alberobello Tour through the landscape around Alberobello and discover ancient trulli, dry stone walls, and old farmhouses. Don’t miss the local cheese laboratory where you can learn how to make burrata like a pro and try the freshest mozzarella you have ever tasted. Take a photography tour of Lecce The fewer passers-by on Lecce’s narrow winding streets the better the resulting urban shots. With your professional photographer guide, you’ll discover how the light plays with shapes and textures in this beautiful Baroque city, and other top photography tips.

FOOD & DRINK Dall’Antiquario, Lecce Here you can sample the finest lemon custard pie and they are open all year round. IRS’s a colourful rustic space serving home style Salento-region cuisine and decorated with hanging bicycles and charming trinkets. La Locanda di Federico, Bari Very authentic restaurant in the old town of Bari, mainly frequented by locals. Here you can find the freshest and tastiest pasta that Bari is famous for. Old-style “Barese” cuisine passionately made with a modern twist. La Nobilnonna dal 1990, Polignano a Mare Lovely venue with a great location and open all year round. Offers a spectacular sea food menu featuring dishes like fresh oysters, swordfish carpaccio, barbecue squid, and lobster gratin at inside tables or on the back terrace.

Fresh pasta making in Puglia

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Puglia, Italy

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Puglia, Italy

INSIDER TIPS • In the pre-Easter period, during Holy week, there are unique rituals on the streets of Puglia. In cities like Taranto and Martina Franca see processions of barefoot people with closed faces like capuchins that repeat the road to Calvary and ask for the atonement of sins.

• Visit the perfectly preserved 13th century Castel del Monte close to Andria. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996, it’s known for its characteristic octagonal shape. It’s also the inspiration for the fortress in Umberto Eco’s novel ‘The Name of the Rose’.

• Pizzica is a traditional Puglian folk dance, a mesmeric mix of jerky moves and rhythmic beats with a long historic tradition. It’s like a ballet filled with religious and cultural significance. You might well see street performances or book to see a live show.

GOOD TO KNOW • Apulia or Puglia? You see both, but the historic name for the region is the Latin Apulia, the version favoured by English speakers. Italians however use their preferred Puglia, pronounced ‘poo-lee-a’ and modern convention is now moving towards this usage.

• To really experience a slower pace of life, hire a car and take a trip into the Daunia Mountains where time stands still. Here you can fall asleep in one of the pretty villages like Bovino or Sant’Agata and awake to epic vistas of forested valleys and medieval castles.

• Southern Italians still embrace their version of

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siesta - ‘Pennichella’, much more so than in the north of the country. So take into account when making plans that in Puglia almost everything is closed during the lunch time, which can last anything from 1pm to 5pm.

Featured Destination: Nepal

NEPAL On top of the world in the birthplace of Buddha

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Low Season: February, June - August

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Nepal

Featured Destination: Nepal Wrapped up warm you look out over forested Himalayan foothills, the primary colours of fluttering prayer flags popping brightly against the clear winter sky. You well might be reminded of the words of Karen Carpenter as you look down on creation from your mountain village homestay. Magnificent though the vistas of towering summits might be, Nepal is about so much more than the single mystic giant it has become legendary for. It’s a land hugely rich in biodiversity, welcoming you into a unique culture. Take time to explore this diverse destination, from the frenetic craziness of Kathmandu’s buzzing streets and shrines steeped in spiritually to crashing rivers and zip lines through jungles. Spring and autumn are traditionally seen at the preferred times to visit Nepal, but they are also by far the most crowded and expensive.

Low Season Traveller

At Low Season Traveller we recommend considering either of the two off peak periods, which have so much to offer including some uniquely low season experiences, and heavily discounted rates. The hot summer months, June, July and August, see the renowned monsoon. Heavy rainfall can be expected which may restrict mountain views and mean some adventure activities are curtailed. However, it’s actually an ideal time to experience Nepal’s glorious greenery, the emerging shades and changing landscapes as life returns to the land. Join communities as they celebrate this annual phenomenon and tour the top spiritual and cultural centres with the best guides and learn how locals honour their Hindu and Buddhist traditions once the tourist crowds have left. In contrast December and January are cold and travellers can be put off by freezing temperatures and snowfall. Do keep in mind though that this winter period sees the clearest skies and most impressive views. Winter trekking is totally possible, especially on low elevation routes, and popular treks are void of the excited high season crowds. It’s also much warmer at this time in the south of the country plus it’s the very best time to explore jungle areas and the national parks of Chitwan and Bardia.

Find your Spiritual Side We love exploring Nepal’s historical, religious and cultural sites in low season when the crowds have gone and the spiritual vibration is strong. Hinduism is the most practiced form of worship, while Buddhism is also followed, particularly in the area around Lumbini where Siddhartha Gautama himself was said to be born in the 5th century BC. An openness towards minority faiths, as well an overwhelming attitude of compassion and generous, has led many seekers of enlightenment to come to Nepal for spiritual immersion, praying with monks and meeting holy sages. A fascinating Nepalese past, with blended elements from Indian and Chinese neighbours, has rendered a feast for culture seekers. In fact, there are seven UNESCO’s World Heritage sites within Kathmandu Valley alone including the architectural gem of Durbar Square and the massive Bouddhanath Stupa. Winter Wildlife Did you know Nepal is home to almost 10% of the world’s total species of bird as well as a huge number of butterfly and mammal species? It’s even been called the Amazon of Asia thanks to its unique biodiversity. The great plains in the south, known as the Terai, and the national parks of Chitwan, Bardia and Suklaphata are stunning places to conduct jungle treks, jeep safaris, and canoe rides under the guidance of experienced locals. Monsoon sees closures due to mud and landslides, but winter enjoys ideal viewing conditions as long grasses are cut back and you’ll have a chance to spot Royal Bengal tigers, leopards and rhinos, as well as gharial and marsh mugger crocodiles basking in the sun along the marshes and rivers.

Low Season Trekking From intensive 3-week odysseys to day long hikes, trekkers are spoilt for choice, with options across the length and breadth of Nepal. Everest, Annapurna and Langtang treks are the most popular and low season means you can enjoy these iconic trails in peace. Shorter hikes such as Sakhu to Dhulikhel and in the hills around Kathmandu also offer unforgettable opportunities, with superb winter vistas, and in summer, streams and waterfalls are in full flow. We recommend taking advice from local guiding services who can give up to date information about which trails are most accessible due to current conditions, avoid monsoon landslides, and help you get the best from your experience.

Kathmandu’s landmark, Swayambhunath Thamel district, Kathmandu

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Nepal

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Nepal

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination Nepal

Featured Destination: Nepal TOP EXPERIENCES Ropai Rice Planting Festival Falling in the middle of monsoon, this low season event occurs on Ashar 15 in the Nepalese calendar. Visitors can arrange to join local farming communities and celebrate another year of sowing in the fertile paddies with delicious home-cooked food and drink. Manaslu Trek This 108-mile circuit, known as the best all-round teahouse trek on the Great Himalayan Trail, offers beautiful scenery, fascinating culture, and wildlife. It’s demanding, but accessible year-round. Or find your favourite shorter trek, depending on your needs. Fly over Everest Experience an unforgettable mountain flight from Kathmandu or Pokhara. The winter views are great once you climb above the haze. Monsoon can be trickier due to cloud, but local services will advise, but prices are much more reasonable at these times of year.

FOOD & DRINK Forest and Plate, Thamel, Kathmandu This lovely venue specialises in organic salads made with the best locally sourced fresh herbs and leaves. Located in Thamel, in the heart of Kathmandu, organic coffee, and cocktails are also served. There’s a rooftop terrace with stupa views. The Village Café, Lalitpur, Kathmandu Serves delicious Newari dishes, while helping hundreds of women earn a living through training in their ownership of the café, production of fresh ingredients and hygiene guidelines. All used alongside their inherited traditional culinary skills.

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Newa Lahana, Kirtipur, Kathmandu A real culinary adventure. This small busy place serves real Newari food in the traditional manner – spread out on the floor while diners perch on cushions. Set against the western face of the historical hill of Kirtipur, it’s an experience not to be missed.

Traditional Nepali cuisine

Featured Destination: Nepal

INSIDER TIPS • Nepal is the only country in the world with a non-rectangular flag. It’s made up of two distinctive crimson triangles or pennants with a dark blue border and decorated with a sun and a moon. It’s been in place since 1962 but based on a millennia old design.

• Nepal is adventure sport paradise, especially around the picturesque city of Pokhara. Kayaking, paragliding, and bungee jumps are on offer with low season discounts of 50%. You can also visit caves, waterfalls, or Fewa Lake for more sedate activities.

• Dal bhat, lentil curry with rice, is standard Nepalese kitchen fare, but don’t miss other Newari delicacies. Favourites are yomari, steamed rice stuffed with sweets, dhido made with polenta, or momos filled with seasoned stuffing and absolutely delicious.

GOOD TO KNOW • Consider using a porter to carry luggage on a trek. You might feel like a total wimp, but locals are much more capable at high altitudes, and you’ll be supporting local economy when incomes from tourism are low. Plus, you’re free to enjoy the trek without the weight.

• Low season is a great time to interact with families, sharing a cup of Nepali tea. Gai Jatra is a festival of dancing and singing and falls in July or August. This festival of the cow commemorates the death of loved ones and people dressed as cows parade on the streets. meet. Or worse still, go in for a hug or a kiss. Instead, simply opt for placing your palms together, bow your head and say ‘Namaste’ (or ‘Tashidele’ among Sherpa communities). It means “I salute the God in you”.

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• Don’t try to shake hands with the Nepalis you

Featured Destination: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA Whet your appetite for iconic history, immersive art, and a Philly cheesesteak

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Low Season: November - February

Featured Destination: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania By Claire French

Sitting in the US north-eastern corner, the City of Brotherly Love is conveniently located with easy access by train or car from Boston, New York and Washington DC. It also enjoys direct flights from throughout Europe, making the birthplace of the Fresh Prince, a great choice for a stand-alone break, or a cool stop on a tour of the eastern states. Get your walking shoes on to discover the varied neighbours, particularly around the historic centre, and work up an appetite for the fantastic cuisine you’ll find to suit all pockets and palates. Within walking distance, you’ll be spoilt for choice in your exploration of genuinely iconic sites. Take in the UNESCO World

Heritage Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, snap a pic in front of the Liberty Bell, and get loved up in Love Park, before heading down to Spruce Street Harbour Park for a beer on the Delaware River Waterfront. Spring and summer visits to Philly are popular due to warm weather, numerous festivals and a beach-like vibe along the riverside. However, it is truly a four-season destination with historical attractions and worldrenowned art exhibits remaining open throughout the year. During the low season months of December to February, you’ll find top accommodation at bargain rates, easy entry to otherwise crowded sites, and wonderful seasonal menus at local restaurants. Although the weather can stay mild, winter wanderers should be prepared for possible sub-zero temperatures and even snowstorms. Pack your layers or even better pick up some new cold-weather gear at tax-free rates.

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Pop Quiz. Which major centre was the first United States World Heritage City? Where can you pay your respects at the tomb of Benjamin Franklin? Which city has achieved the accolade of the nation’s 5th most walkable? If you’ve answered, ‘Philadelphia’ to all of the above, go to the top of the class, your grades are looking good.

Featured Destination: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Culture Vultures Some have dared to suggest that there are just too many museums in Philadelphia. We say there’s no such thing… but with 354 art and culture institution to go at, you’ll need to do your research and choose your perfect place to while away a chilly afternoon. Our top picks include the slightly disturbing Mütter Museum, with its collection of medical specimens; the fascinating Eastern State Penitentiary whose most famous inmate was Al Capone and where you can listen to an audio tour by actor Steve Buscemi; and the fabulous Mummers Museum housing sequined and feathered costumes from the New Year Parades dating back to 1901. Festive Wonderland You can really get into the holiday spirit with pop-up markets, carnival atmosphere, over the top decks, and fireworks. Philly’s end of November Thanksgiving Day Parade is the oldest in the country, while the charismatic New Year’s Parade sees extravagantly costumed Mummers strut along Broad Street. Wrap up warmly for the Blue Cross RiverRink Winterfest and the Rothman Institute Ice Rink and Winter Garden. The whole period enjoys a magical vibe with craft markets like the Christmas Village springing up, and light displays like Macy’s Grand Court Light Show which dates from 1955.

TOP EXPERIENCES Ice skating at Rothman Institute At Dilworth Park’s outdoor rink, you’ll skate by the architectural marvel that is Philadelphia’s City Hall. Pop-up markets feature local vendors selling beautifully handcrafted art and crafts and the cosy Rothman Orthopaedics Cabin serves tasty food and seasonal drinks for hungry skaters.

The infamous Philly Cheesesteak Sandwich Reading Terminal Market Sample seasonal treats and local delicacies at America’s oldest Farmers Market. 80+ merchants sell fresh meats, cheeses, and baked goods. You’ll find the widest variety of restaurants under one roof, offering Philadelphia Cheesesteak, Roast Pork sandwiches, and i nternational cuisine. Parc Located in the lively and upmarket Rittenhouse Square neighbourhood, Parc is a Philadelphia-institution that draws crowds for its vibrant atmosphere. Whether you are looking to dress for an evening’s dinner or a lazy brunch, Parc’s morning-to-night menu offers seasonal fare and cocktails.

Awarding Winning Breweries With Philadelphia at the forefront of the craft beer revival, you’ll find dozens of local breweries offering guided tours with tasting sessions. Bars boast a range of rotating seasonal brews on tap and you may even get to experience the liveliness of a Philadelphia bar during a sports game. Tax-free Shopping Pack an extra suitcase because shoes and clothes bought here are free of tax. Tempted? Checkout Macy’s excellent department store in the historic Wanamaker Building; the malls at Liberty Place and King of Prussia; or explore your favourite neighbourhood for independent boutiques.

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FOOD & DRINK

McGillin’s Olde Ale House The city’s oldest continuously operating tavern and a cosy place to stop for a beer and bite. During the holidays, it’s decked out with 1,000 feet of garland, 3,000 Christmas lights, 150 red bows, and over 200 ornaments, and serves holiday-inspired drinks to match the décor.

McGilin’s Olde Ale House Boathouse Row on Schuylkill River

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

INSIDER TIPS • IDon’t miss the Museum of Art with its 225,000 exhibits, Renaissance masterpieces, and renowned Impressionists collection. Highlights are Van Gogh’s ‘Sunflowers’ and Cézanne’s ‘The Large Bathers’, but it’s perhaps best known for its 72 steps made famous by the Rocky movie.

• The iconic bronze statue of city founder William Penn sits on high atop City Hall. At 37 feet tall, he weighs an impressive 53,348 pounds. It’s the world’s largest statue on public building and marked the city’s high point from its 1894 unveiling until Liberty One Place was built in 1998.

• There are plenty of low season events to look forward to. The Chinese New Year Parade features dragons and delicious food; February’s Auto Show showcases the latest models and trends; and the Flower Show in March fills the halls of the Convention Centre with dazzling floral displays.

GOOD TO KNOW • Scope out pop-up bars in advance of your trip. During the winter season, many hospitality groups open ad hoc bars in venues that offer a one-of-a-kind experience with unique features. Many locations vary with every year, so you are always in for a new experience.

• If you plan to shop at holiday markets, visit during the week. The most popular markets can get extremely busy on weekends with regional visitors planning day trips with family and friends looking for last minute holiday gifts, or a reason to enjoy the city’s holiday splendour.

• If you have your heart set on a specific culinary

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experience, book restaurant reservations in advance to ensure you don’t have to wait for a table. Some of the city’s best restaurants fill up during the holidays with work group Christmas dinners, or families coming together.

Cultural Heritage

under-the-radar cultural heritage icons Cultural heritage is what makes a destination and it’s people unique. And sadly, it is disappearing at an alarming rate. Yet tourism can help protect and preserve our precious cultural heritage so we are proud to work closely with the World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage to highlight some icons which you may not be aware of. Join our resident cultural heritage expert and executive chairman of World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage, Chris Flynn, who provides an overview of five amazing cultural and natural heritage places that are just as mysterious as they are beautiful. Add these places to your bucket list and start planning your next trip!

THE MYSTERIOUS LIVING STONES OF ROMANIA Known as the Travonts, these mysterious stones continue to baffle geologists and scientists alike because of their strange and unnatural behaviour. These rare bulbous, budging boulders are only found in a small town in Romania called Costesti. So amazing are the stones that over the centuries they have become part of local #folklore, with some saying they grow, walk and even give birth to baby Trovants. The strange thing is, science says they’re probably right!

These odd, gravity-defying boulders have baffled observers for centuries because they literally grow whenever it rains. Scientists believed Trovants to be a type of concretion of mineral matter (specifically gritstone and conglomerates) which is embedded within rock layers of limestone, sandstone, or shale. It was this that caused the stones to blister, grow and move. However, in 2008, the International Geological Congress in Oslo claimed Trovants had been incorrectly classifies because there was no mineral difference between the stones themselves and the sandstone beds on which they lay. Whatever they are they are very, very strange.... but also simply amazing and scientists alike because of their strange and unnatural behaviour.

NASIR AL-MULK MOSQUE Constructed between 1876 and 1888, during the Qajar dynasty, which ruled Iran from 1785 to 1925, it has been dubbed the “Pink Mosque” due to the plethora of pinkcoloured tiles blanketing the ceiling. Located in Shiraz, a city famous for the ancient #Persian ruins of Persepolis which date back to approx. 550BCE, the spectacular rainbow of stained glass makes the “Pink Mosque” one of the most beautiful in Iran. This is just another reason to visit this amazing culturally rich country, a city famous for the ancient Persian ruins of Persepolis which date back to 550 BCE, the spectacular rainbow of stained glass makes the “Pink Mosque” one of the most beautiful in Iran. which date back to approx. 550BCE, the spectacular rainbow of stained glass makes the “Pink Mosque” one of the most beautiful in Iran.

Low Season Traveller

Trovants are spherical and/or irregular-shaped rocks that can be as small as a couple of millimeters and weigh only a few grams, or they can soar up to 4.5 meters high and weigh several tons.

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Cultural Heritage

THE HARRIET TUBMAN MURAL Harriet Tubman was an American abolitionist and political activist. Born enslaved in Dorchester County, Maryland, Tubman was beaten and whipped by her various masters as a child. In her early, she suffered a traumatic head wound when an irate overseer threw a heavy metal weight which hit her in the head, causing health problems throughout her entire life. Tubman managed to escape to Philadelphia in 1849 only to return to Maryland to rescue her family soon after. Slowly, one group at a time, she brought relatives out with her, eventually guiding dozens of other enslaved people to freedom. During the American Civil War, she served as an armed scout and spy for the Union Army. In her later years, Tubman was an activist in the movement for women’s suffrage. for the Union Army. In her later years, Tubman was an activist in the movement for women’s suffrage. The Harriet Tubman Mural, designed and painted by artist Michael Rosato, is a tribute to her extraordinary life. Located on an exterior wall of the Harriet Tubman Museum and Educational Center, Dorchester, Maryland, the mural was completed on May 20, 2019

It is in this isolated part of the world that we find a mysterious lost city consisting of incredibly smooth stone structures carved with precision-made cuts, clean right angles, and expertly fitted joints that leave experts today still scratching their heads. Originally believed to date from around 600 BCE, it was the Austrian archaeologist Arthur Posnansky who, having spent years studying the site, came to the conclusion that the astronomical alignment of the stone structures was better suited to a date of approximately 15,000 BCE. If he’s right, then these are the remains of a lost ancient civilisation far older and technically advanced than modern day academia would have us believe. What do you think?

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PUMA PUNKU – A MYSTERY THAT MAY BE GREATER THAN THE PYRAMIDS OF EGYPT Located 45 miles west of the modern-day city of La Paz, Bolivia - Puma Punku is situated close to the city of Tiwanaku, high upon a desert plateau of the Andes Mountains, at an altitude of more than 12,000 feet.

Cultural Heritage

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THE PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL PARK The Petrified Forest National Park is located in Navajo and Apache counties in northeastern Arizona.

It is estimated that the park’s earliest human inhabitants arrived at least 8,000 years ago. Evidence suggests that by around 2,000 years ago, they were growing crops in the area and building permanent dwellings in the form of pit houses. Named for its large deposits of petrified trees, the park covers approximately 900 square km (346 square miles) The Petrified Forest is known for its #fossils, especially fallen trees that lived in the Late #Triassic period 225 million years ago. The site, the northern part of which extends into the Painted Desert, was declared a national monument in 1906 and a national park in 1962.

Andalucía’s Cultural Wonders

Andalucía’s

s r e d n o W l a r u t C ul By Ryan Maley Andalucían adventures: Low season delights in sultry southern Spain Passion, culture, identity. Despite being Spain’s most southerly region, for me Andalucía is undoubtedly the country’s beating heart. Shaped by a melting pot of distinct cultures that are evident in the region’s food, architecture, and language, Andalucía boasts an abundance of attractions, gastronomic adventures, and secrets for discerning travellers to uncover. With one of the best climates in Europe for sun-chasers, southern Spain is the perfect getaway for low seasons. Whilst the cities are sweltering from June-August, the shoulder seasons can offer perfect weather and fewer crowds, especially as inhabitants from inland Spain tend to summer along the coast in the south. Flights from the UK to the gateway airport of Málaga are easily attainable for £50£100 return in the low seasons, a price that should put the region right to the top of your travel list.

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El Acebuchal El Acebuchal is a secluded village in the municipality of Cómpeta, just north of the well-known whitewashed village of Frigiliana. The village was in a historically important location between the coast and Granada, allowing the trade of goods between the two.

In 1948, the Franco regime’s Guardia Civil ordered the 200 inhabitants of El Acebuchal to leave the rural village, suspecting that the locals were helping the rebels’ fight. The village was left to fall to ruin in the 50 years that followed, becoming known locally as the ‘lost village’ of El Acebuchal.

project grew, and others also returned to rebuild their own homes. Today, the small, quirky village has been restored to its former glory, and is becoming a popular site for rural tourism. Antonio owns the main bar and restaurant in the village, which is worth the trip alone. Given the spectacular location in the Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama Natural Park, local produce and game feature heavily on the menu, but the showstopper has to be their stunning homemade bread and oil. Take a seat on the terrace and appreciate how the hard work and dedication of Antonio and his family have brought the village back to life. Las Alpujarras Nestled along the slopes of Andalucía’s Sierra Nevada, La Alpujarra is a famous collection of traditional white pueblos straddling the provinces of Granada and Almería. Typified by the white flat-roofed buildings and narrow streets built by the Berber population after the Moorish occupation of the region, the villages remain incredibly fertile thanks to the annual snow-melt of the Sierra Nevada mountains. The most well-known of the villages are the trio of those in the Poqueira valley: Pampaneira, Bubión, and Capileira. These three villages have capitalised on the touristic interest in the region, and have plenty of accommodation, attractions, and restaurants available for those wanting to make the picturesque trip up into the mountains. However, for an experience of true rural life in Spain’s low seasons, you should also take a wander through some of the quiet streets of the lesser-known villages such as Mecina Fondales or Ferreirola.

50 years later, Antonio Sánchez, the son of one of the original inhabitants, returned with his family and set about the task of rebuilding the village. Excitement about the Caminito Del Rey - not for the faint of heart! (right)

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Andalucía’s Cultural Wonders

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Mountain skiing - Pradollano, Sierra Nevada, Spain

Bodegas Bentomiz

Sheltered fireplace with jarapas in the Alpujarra of Granada

Andalucía’s Cultural Wonders

El Acebuchal

The success of the winery, located just above the unassuming village of Sayalonga, is down to the hard work of Dutch couple Clara and André. After lovingly restoring the vineyard, which contains 80 to 100-year-old vines, the couple began creating a range of fantastic wines that can now be found in over 20 European Michelinstarred restaurants. The spectacular building at the heart of the vineyard was meticulously designed by André to house a restaurant, winery, and offices, and is clad in Indian slate that complements the slate in the Andalucían soil. From here, Bodegas Bentomiz offer winery tours, tastings, lunches, and special events. Taking a tour in the low season allows visitors to experience the different stages of the life-cycle of the vineyard, from the sun-drying of the grapes on local ‘paseros’ (raisin-beds) to the trimming of the previous years’ shoots at the end of winter. Be sure to stick around for the lunch and wine tasting where André, who is also the head chef, develops a local, seasonal menu that perfectly balances with their wine. Sierra Nevada Despite being famous for its wonderful Mediterranean climate, a low season visit to Andalucía can, surprisingly, offer fantastic opportunities for skiing. Just 45 minutes from the stunning city of Granada lies Europe’s most southerly ski resort in the Sierra Nevada National Park. Operating from November to May, the

Pradollano ski resort offers over 100km of slopes ranging from easy to difficult, and boasts the largest ski slope in Spain amongst its 131 pistes. The Sierra Nevada Ski Station in Pradollano lies within the municipality of Monachil, which is certainly worth a visit itself. However, you can mix up your trip with a visit to the warmer climes of Granada, unbelievably just 35km away. The city has plenty to offer, not least the awe-inspiring Alhambra Palace, an opulent Moorish palace complex and gardens set against the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra Nevada mountains. Caminito del Rey Lying in the centre of the Province of Málaga lies the natural park of the ‘Desfiladero de los Gaitanes’. Easily accessible by train and car from Málaga city centre, this area of outstanding natural beauty is perfect for hiking and exploring in the cooler low seasons of Spain. At the heart of the natural park is an incredible gorge, with the best views coming from the Caminito del Rey, a 3km, 100ft high suspended walkway between the walls of the canyon. Originally constructed at the start of the 20th Century and named after the visit of the monarch Alfonso XIII in 1921, the walkway fell into disrepair before being completely restored and reopened in 2015.

Take a guided tour of the Caminto del Rey in the cooler and quieter low season in order to find out more about the families that lived nearby and used the original vertigo-inducing walkway, as well as the flora and fauna present, such as the large colony of Griffon Vultures.

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Bodegas Bentomiz For those that say that the climate in Málaga is too hot for a successful winery, Bodegas Bentomiz is here to prove them wrong.

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Note from our Partners

UN MESSAGGIO DA ANDREA As Founder of IC Bellagio, Andrea is a very vocal advocate of the travel industry, inspiring students at colleges and universities to follow in her footsteps with her many speaking engagements. She is also very conscious of the role inspiration plays for her staff as well, encouraging IC Bellagio staff to travel abroad and offering exciting career development opportunities.

We are enjoying the start of one of our favorite months of the year, with its perfect temperatures and weather conditions, fewer groups and lots of gastronomic and wine experiences to enjoy, not forgetting the wine harvest. We are delighted to see many new requests for travel in October, November, December and throughout the entire Festive Season. Ask any of our Supplier Partners which is their favorite time of the year and I am quite sure that October, November and December will be high on everyone’s list. Why? Quite simply… fewer people, more opportunities to spend valuable time with people, more opportunities to explore some of the lesser-known areas of our regions meeting new people and enjoying amazing authentic experiences and enjoying our home towns and cities without the crowds. Whilst October, November and December are great for many destinations this is not so for the entire country. One of Italy’s many advantages is that it is a country made up of 20 Regions, each with its own identity, traditions and reasons to visit. The Dolomites for example, one of the most requested of the lesser traveled regions actually closes mid-September following the summer and reopens early December through to early April before taking another few weeks off to prepare for the summer season. One trend that we are observing is that hotels that would traditionally close towards the end of October/early November following the summer season are now choosing to stay open through the Festive Season – such as Villa D’Este or beautiful new Passalacqua, both located on Lake Como. What a dream to spend the Festive Season in one of these properties and enjoy all the Italian traditions surrounded by some of the most special people. These months are also the perfect time to practice your Italian – one initiative that has been hugely successful for us this year is our Virtual Italian Lessons; travelers enjoying virtual lessons prior to their arrival in Italy with one of our Head Guides. Not only does this give the traveler a little more confidence when they are out and about, it also gives them the opportunity to ask any last-minute questions they may have. Wherever travelers are headed during these coming months, rest assured a very authentic, less rushed and more relaxed experience awaits them.

CEO IC Bellagio

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Buon Viaggio e Buon Lavoro a tutti

Top 10 best stays

Featured Destinations:Jordan

OUR TOP

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BEST STAYS

Top 10 best stays

LUXURY

THE CHEDI, LUSTICA BAY, MONTENEGRO This luxurious retreat, encompasses 111 exceptionally elegant rooms and suites, two restaurants, two bars, versatile meeting facilities, a private beach, an Asian-inspired Spa, an indoor pool, and an outdoor infinity pool. The Chedi Luštica Bay offers everything you could expect from one of the most exclusive luxury Montenegrin hotels, with genuine hospitality and flawless service that anticipates your every need. Book your Low Season stay

Images sourced from accommodation providers.

ECO

CAPELLA UBUD, BALI Nestled in the heart of lush green forests, this blissfully peaceful tented camp sits in harmony with the surrounding nature. Constructed within the trees and hidden from afar, it captures the imagination of those who seek a unique experience at the heart of Bali’s untouched natural surroundings. Within the camp are twenty-two onebedroom tents as well as one two-bedroom lodge, all with private saltwater pools. The best hotel in Southeast Asia? Conde Nast thinks so. Stay at Capella Ubud

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ICONIC

NGORONGORO CRATER LODGE, TANZANIA Ngorongoro Crater Lodge has been called the game lodge at the top of the world. Between the natural riches of the Crater spread out at its feet and the incredible architecture, it’s easy to believe that you have entered a realm of pure fantasy. Divided into three camps, 30 suites with banana leaf ceilings and grass roofs provide an intimate and exclusive experience where everything is chosen to delight the imagination and enhance the spectacular views of the magnificent surroundings. Book your fantasy Safari experience

Top 10 best stays

ECO

4CORNERSTONE B&B, PHILADELPHIA This quaintly beautiful Victorian gem is full of old world hospitality, well located and even sources their gourmet breakfast ingredients from local farmers whenever possible, including responsibly-sourced coffee. As a small business, the owners believe it’s important to support other local businesses so that guests can truly experience a taste of Philadelphia. Prepare to be wowed at

QUIRKY

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LUXURY 61

DWARIKA’S HOTEL, KATHMANDU “Born out of the owner’s quest to preserve the Kathmandu Valley’s heritage, Dwarika’s Hotel is a sanctuary for the architectural grandeur of the city. The intricately carved, original, wooden ornaments found throughout the property, are the soul of the Dwarika’s. With peaceful courtyards overlooked by the meticulously decorated spacious rooms, Dwarika’s is seeped in Nepalese culture. A truly authentic stay in this amazing city. Check out Dwarika’s Hotel

JABALI RIDGE, TANZANIA Jabali Ridge is a stylish camp in the wildlife-rich Ruaha National Park, set on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Mwagusi River and Ikuka escarpment. Rated as one of the most luxurious lodges in Tanzania, the suites at Jabali Ridge will delight guests and the setting will take your breath away. Commanding stupendous views in every direction (including from its famous infinity pool) Jabali lies in wild and wonderful Ruaha National Park, the ideal destination for an off-thebeaten-track safari. Book to unwind at Jabali Ridge

Top 10 best stays

LUXURY ECO

PAVILIONS HIMALAYAS, POKHARA, NEPAL Nestled in the natural paradise of a lushly forested valley and set against the backdrop of the majestic Himalayan Mountain range, The Pavilions Himalayas is a truly eco-sensitive luxury resort that gives back to the local community. Breathe, hike and explore the beauty of Nepal beyond your expectations. Set on an organic farm, guests enjoy the natural beauty of Pokhara, the gateway to the Annapurna Himalayas. Book your eco-stay at Pavilions Himalayas

BUE KOTOR BAY RESORT, MONTENEGRO The 5-star Blue Kotor Bay Premium Spa Resort is set in a protected area 5km from the medieval bastion “Kampana Tower”. With a light and airy décor throughout and a wonderful spa with indoor pool, guests may find it hard to leave for the glorious nearby beach walks and hikes which this area of Montenegro is famous for. Stay at the Blue Kotor Bay

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QUIRKY

PALAZZO BOZZI CORSO, LECCE, PUGLIA The luxurious and charming Palazzo Bozzi Corso is situated just a stone’s throw from the Basilica di Santa Croce. Erected in 1775, it is today dedicated to the memory of Enzo Fiermonte, world-famous boxing champion and great-uncle to the current owners Antonia and Giacomo Filali. With stunning suites, The Palazzo boasts an elegant Rooftop terrace with plunge pool and an extraordinary views over the City of Lecce, with its many bell towers, picturesque buildings and unforgettable sunsets. Book a stay at Palazzo Bozzi Corso

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Top 10 best stays

ICONIC

THE LEGIAN, SEMINYAK, BALI The Legian is a suite and villa only boutique resort and home to some of the most sought after accommodation on the island. Every suite has unparalleled, sea-facing views and guests can choose from a variety of options. As such, The Legian is simply one of the most renowned hotels in Indonesia. Since its opening it 1996, it has stood the test of time and is still the favourite choice for luxury travellers in Bali and continues to attract the great and the good from all around the world. Stay at The Legian

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Top 10 best stays

Featured Destination: Bali

Bali A spiritual journey through lush paddy fields, monkey temples and cliff top shrines Low Season: October - November, February - May By Claire French

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“Om swastiastu”. You’ll hear the Sanskrit greeting everywhere among the smiling Balinese. Offer this traditional hello and you’ll enjoy a reaction of genuine glee. Meaning something along the lines of “peace from God”, it’s very much in keeping with the spirit of Bali. This gem of the Indonesian archipelago is known as the island of the gods and it’s easy to see why. The emerald, green rice terraces, forested volcanic mountains and towering cliffs are almost painfully beautiful, dotted throughout with tiered pagodas, exquisite temples and hidden shrines reflecting a deep adherence to Hinduism entwined into the daily lives of the Balinese.

People here are extremely conservative, and this becomes immediately apparent, especially outside the heavily touristed areas around Seminyak and Kuta, which are best avoided in your discovery of an authentic Bali. The biggest crowds congregate in the dry season May to September, and then again around the period December and January. The wet monsoon season lasts October through May and apart from the Christmas and New Year peak, can be considered low season. March to May and October to November are magical times to travel – costs are lower, crowds are fewer and as you watch raindrops dripping off the elephant ear palms and revel in the relief humidity, you will relax, whether you want to or not.

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Featured Destination: Bali

Featured Destination: Bali Luscious Ubud A favoured hotspot, not least since its starring role in ‘Eat, Pray, Love’, Ubud is an absolute must for the low season. Nestled among rice paddies, rainforests, and steep ravines, it’s a centre for traditional crafts and dance. The picturesque Campuhan Ridge Walk is gorgeous undertaken early in the morning or just before sunset. At The Pyramids of Chi sound healing centre, you’ll spend an hour transcending through an energetic musical vibration. Take time to explore the sacred Monkey Forest, where 14th century temples sit within dense foliage and make a home for hundreds of long-tailed macaques. Just take care not to look any of the primates directly in the eye and keep your snacks well out of reach. Your Beach of Choice Each traveller’s idea of a perfect beach is different, so choose carefully. The popular sands around Canggu, Seminyak, Kuta are fabulous for Instagram shots of you and your pals enjoying cocktails and sun loungers at upmarket Finns Club, Ku De Ta and Café del Mar. If you are looking for something more pristine, it is worth venturing further to check out the cliffs at Yeh Gangga, the surf at Keramas, Amed in the northeast for incredible snorkelling, or the beautiful island of Nusa Penida. The Great Indoors Even in the wet monsoon, you’ll find sunny periods for much of the day, but to dodge the showers, there are loads of brilliant options. Bali is renowned for its super chilled yoga retreats. Whether you’re a dedicated yogi or beginner on the mat, take a single class or stay for a week and be at one among paradisial surroundings and spiritual vibes. Get inspired by Bali’s community of artists, keeping ancient traditions alive and pushing boundaries. Bajra Sandhi in a Denpasar Park showcases spectacular feats of architecture; Le Mayeur Museum home of Adrien-Jean features furniture sculpted with Hindu legends; and Tugu Hotel houses a stunning collection of Indonesian art and antiquities. Or just while away the hours in Bali’s many cocktail bars, coffee shops or fragrant local restaurants.

TOP EXPERIENCES

Relaxing Balinese Massage Massage Indulge in a wonderful pampering Balinese treatment complete with Indian Ayurvedic techniques and local herbal scrubs all in a serene setting. Full of ritual, massages are given to brides before a wedding, and are available for you at a fraction of the price back home.

FOOD & DRINK Zest, Ubud A completely plant-based restaurant that’s so good even carnivores will love it! Beautiful open-air organic restaurant with beautiful artistic touches and sweeping jungle views. Often featuring live music. Sundara, Jimbaran Bay The stunning beach club at Jimbaran’s Four Seasons. It’s an upmarket hideaway for daylong relaxation or sundowners. Dine on fresh seafood on the sun-kissed deck or in an intimate beach-front gazebo. Babi Guling Suckling Pig One of Bali’s most famed dishes. The pig is stuffed andinfused with a spicy concoction typically involving turmeric, coriander seeds, lemongrass, black pepper and garlic, and traditionally spit roasted.

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Climb Mount Batur This very sacred mountain rises to 1717m above sea level and can be climbed, if you’ve got the fitness levels, in time for an unforgettable sunrise. Take in spectacular views from the peak and tuck into a well-deserved breakfast beside the steam of an active volcano.

Water Palaces The quintessential image of Bali, Tirta Gangga was built for the royal family of Karangasem and the water is said to be from the River Ganges herself. Often less crowded, you may prefer the more remote but no less stunning Taman Ujung tucked away on the eastern coast.

Nasi Campur Babi Guling Another stunning Balinese sunset

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Bali

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Bali

INSIDER TIPS • During low season, in March or April, Bali celebrates Nyepi or the Day of Silence. No public facilities are open for 24 hours. The run up though is a chance to experience ritualistic ceremonies, painted statues, and locals banging pots to chase away demons.

• Don’t be surprised to see congested roads and stationery traffic, families on bikes, taxis, trucks with chicken. Low season brings something of a relief to this situation. Canggu to Ubud is usually 30 minutes but can take 4 hours in high season rush hour.

• There are some amazing upmarket eateries, but don’t miss the local warungs. These are family run cafes or stalls with a few tables, simple décor and delicious home-cooked food at low prices. Skip tap water and salad but do try nasi campur – a bit of everything.

• If you have your heart set on a specific culinary

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Hotels & Sustainability

& s l e t o H ustainability S With more properties claiming to be ‘eco friendly’ than ever before, we asked Pauline Van Beneden from Ecotel Consultancy to help us unpick the truth from the greenwashing… Please introduce yourself and the Ecotel Consultancy? My name is Pauline Van Beneden and I am the co-CEO and hotel sustainability expert of Ecotel Consultancy (ecotelconsultancy.com), which is a sustainability consulting firm for hotels specialized in sustainability advice, consultancy and ecolabelling/certification guidance for hotels.

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Our mission is to make the hotel industry more sustainable by guiding hotels in every aspect of their business and keeping in mind the base principles of sustainability: making a positive impact on the environment, the society and the economy. We founded our company after my colleague and I met in a hotel where we stayed for our family holidays. To make a long story short, sustainability was not at all the norm in the hotel and certain practices made us question how we could do better. We found a mutual interest in the topic of sustainable hospitality as well as a drive to change these things. And so, our company was born.

How are hotels becoming more sustainable today? As in all things, there are frontrunners and laggards when it comes to sustainability. While there are exemplary hotels that have implemented sustainability throughout the complete accommodation and operations, there are even more hotels who have not even started yet. However, as sustainability is becoming the norm in everyday life and

business, awareness of the sustainable mindset is being created globally. Consequently, the majority of hotels and other accommodations have already started to put steps in the right direction, some more than others. It must be said, however, that the majority of this group, has stagnated in their sustainability efforts and stopped at fancy policies and stickers on the wall asking guests to re-use their towels. There is of course nothing wrong with implementing the low-hanging fruit first as this is a good starting point for hotels, but there is still an incredible lot of work that must be done to get to a completely sustainable way of tourism. But I believe that the future is bright as hotels are being incentivized by all different hotel stakeholders, from policy makers to suppliers and of course the core of their business – hotel guests. These incentives are very necessary to get the laggards on the wagon and the ones that already started to keep moving. Is there still a lot of greenwashing going on in hotel accommodations? Guiding hotels on their sustainability journey allows us to see what happens behind the scenes which is unfortunately sometimes indeed greenwashing. However, it must be said that this is not always intentional. I have seen hotels that have tried to become more sustainable by buying for example ‘eco’ products for cleaning purposes, however Datai Hotel, Malaysia (right)

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Hotels & Sustainability

Hotels & Sustainability these products themselves are not always as green as they claim to be and use merely the name as a marketing tool. Another problem in my opinion is that many hotels that are part of a chain are hiding behind fancy policies concerning sustainability but in fact there is little done to make their premises truly sustainable. An example here is a hotel I recently visited in Belgium, one being part of a big hotel chain that has many of its hotels equipped with an ecolabel. One of the criteria of this label is that there is a card system in order to prevent excessive and unnecessary energy use. A very good idea in theory but this hotel had found no better solution then to provide their guests with an extra card and the explicit instructions to use that card to keep it into the card system to be able to constantly leave the lights and heating/air conditioning (one of the biggest energy consumers!) on and chargers plugged in. This is truly beyond my understanding and a great example of greenwashing. Firstly, this does not mean that the problem lies with the organizations that issue ecolabels as they cannot control hotels 24/7. These ecolabels are a great starting point for implementing sustainability and help to transfer knowledge on sustainable hospitality, both for the hotel and the guest. Rather, the responsibility lies in the hands of the management as the issue is often that employees are not informed or trained regarding sustainability and how to engage in sustainable practices within their hotel. Secondly, do not get me wrong, not all chain hotels are doing harm. There are in fact hotel chains that are going above and beyond their sustainability policies and have implemented their goals into their complete operations and accommodations. A lot of chains and independent hotels are making great efforts when it comes to transitioning to sustainable ways of operating. Moreover, the hotels we work with are really trying to implement positive changes but with these hotels, it is often the lack of knowledge that causes unintentional greenwashing, an issue that can be resolved with proper communication and information. For the accommodations that are just trying to look for an easy way out by intentional greenwashing, more drastic measures should be taken and the growing voice of tourists for a sustainable demand might be one of the most important aspects to finally make this happen.

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How can we spot greenwashing as a traveller? For an average guest who does not get to see what happens behind the scenes but wants to know if their hotel is greenwashing; try hanging your towel right next to the sign that says explicitly to hang them up in an effort to save the planet. 8 out of 10 times, you will have new towels anyway.

Another thing you can do, is thinking about the food you are eating. Are strawberries really that “local and seasonal” in January? Next to that, do not be afraid to ask questions to the hotel

staff. Do they really know their own policies? I believe it is always a good idea to do this, either way it can only result positively. Or you know the answer to your questions and the hotel is really making an effort or you have just opened room for a conversation and let them think about what they are doing. What role can travellers play when they are choosing a sustainable accommodation? Hotels can only do so much when it comes to integrating sustainability and yes, there is still a long way to go on their part, but an important role is reserved for guests and their involvement. It is thus vastly important that in the contemporary climate, tourists – especially in the luxury sector – contribute to the sustainable future in the tourism industry. Not only can you create a positive impact by opting for sustainable accommodations and opting for local activities, you - as a guest - have an important voice. If the demand for sustainable accommodations and low season travelling rises, (hotel) accommodations will follow so it is incredibly important for tourists to speak up and change the tourism patterns that have been stuck for years. It starts with choosing sustainable accommodations as there is still only a selection of hotels that have chosen the sustainable path. A good measure for guests is the presence of an ecolabel or green building certification for the hotel accommodation, sustainable initiatives that are being promoted (for example in the form of local excursions) or consistent communication regarding sustainability (but beware of greenwashing!). Choosing your accommodation well – in a sustainable way – is the beginning of contributing to this aspect as you are staying there for multiple days and as such your presence on its own makes an impact. With the right products and equipment present in the hotel, an enormous difference can already be made. Furthermore, ask questions to the managers of your accommodation, this will either let them think about what can be done and allow you to learn more about the activities you can do in the surroundings of your stay. Be aware of what you are doing, by this, I mean that you can choose to discover for example local food, local cultures, ... to support local stakeholders. In doing excursions, you have the opportunity to learn about your environment from local guides on private tours – a real privilege you can enjoy by spending some more on luxury travel. Ask yourself the question why you are in the country you are. You are there for the local culture, nature and the amazing sights there. So, discover them in a sustainable way with the people that live there. Try to support these locals as they are the ones living in this environment. In addition, they know the places not all people know, places that are not yet deteriorating by getting overcrowded with tourists. Places where you can enjoy in a luxurious way, without ruining the very place you ought to see.

Featured Podcasts

Let us whisk you away from reality for 30 minutes as we escape to different exciting parts of the world each week. Since 2018, thousands of low season travellers like you, have been tuning in to listen to our Insider Guides podcast series. These podcasts are your chance to listen to locals from around the world where they tell us why their destination is at its best, during the low season months. In each edition, we bring you five of our favourite destinations and five of our favourite guests, so sit back, relax and let us take you away with us…

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THE HEART OF JAPAN As Japan looks finally set to re-open, we speak with Avi Lugasi to learn more about the fascinating culture of Japan as we seek to discover things like; why you should never be late (or early for that matter), why the streets are so clean despite the absence of trash cans and why, for the Japanese, the intricate details matter so much…

Featured Podcasts

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SAAS FEE: THE PEARL OF THE ALPS In this episode we head over to Saas Fee, to join Florian Leven who is the General Manager of the Capra Hotel. Saas Fee is known as one of the most charming and beautiful regions in the Swiss Alps and has the advantage of being a perfect low season escape during the fall months of September through November when the plethoroa of 4,000 metre peaks surrounding the resort, explode with colour as the browns, reds, and yellows of the autumn appear.

FAIRER TOURISM IN UGANDA In this episode, we’re talking about equitable and responsible tourism with James Nadiope, who is the founder and CEO of The Justice Tourism Foundation in Uganda. James has a vision of a world where tourism brings greater benefits for local communities which in turn can participate in terms of job creation, poverty reduction and environmental management. Perhaps, this is what the future of tourism looks like in a world where the benefits are more evenly distributed.

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GUIDEBOOK WRITER’S RHODES Today we’re speaking Rebecca Hall, a renowned travel writer, about the Greek island of Rhodes which is just starting to enter it’s quieter low season months. Rebecca eats, sleeps and drinks Greece. And, as a testament to her knowledge of Greece and indeed Rhodes, Rebecca writes the guides for some of the world’s leading travel publications including The Rough Guides and Lonely Planet among many others.

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John Borthwick is one of Australia’s leading travel writers, his work is published by leading newspapers around the world and his photos have graced the covers of no fewer than five editions of the Lonely Planet. He has been Australian Travel Writer of the Year and awarded the Pacific Asia Travel Association Gold Award. When he turned out to be sharing Nikki Morrison’s Low Season Adventure in Northern Thailand she couldn’t have been more delighted…

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AUSTRALIA’S TRAVEL WRITER

LOW SEASON TRAVEL MAKES YOU FEEL FREE

Low Season Traveller - Issue 3

Articles inside

Hotels and sustainability

Top 10 best stays

Note from our partners

Featured destination: Bali, Indonesia

Featured destination: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Railway To Heaven - Venice Simplon Orient Express

Cultural heritage icons

Featured destination: Puglia, Italy

Featured destination: Tanzania

Featured destination: Nepal

Andalucía’s cultural wonders

Featured destination: Montenegro