www.gourme
ttoday.recipe
ecember 2016
S E A TH STM ON I I R IT C H ED
ISSUE 43 • D
s
DRINK AND BE MERRY THE FESTIVE SEASON AT THE THIRSTY BARBER
GOOSE CHRISTMA S
PECIALS SARDINIAN S
CHRISTMA S
GOODIES
CONTRIBUTORS
Rachel Agiu
s
Gaby Hollan
d
Michael Diac
ono
Editor’s note
C
hristmas lights, Christmas campaigns, Christmas carols – this can only mean one thing, Christmas is just around the corner! Presents, get-togethers, meals, drinks. All of this can seem overwhelming, putting a damper on a season that is supposed to be happy. The secret to having a good time at Christmas is planning. Plan your gifts before you shop, plan the meals you plan to cook at home, decide which places you want to go to and book your tables well in advance. If you’re still unsure about any of the above we have the perfect solution. Still not sure what to cook on the big day? Pippa Mattei was inspired by a trip to Germany and makes a typical German festive meal with a roast goose and potato dumplings, spiced red cabbage, marzipan apples for dessert and stollen for tea. The festive season is one where we all tend to let loose a little and indulge in one or two drinks more than usual. Whether you are hosting a party and looking for a festive cocktail recipe, choosing a bar for Christmas drinks or picking a gift of an alcoholic nature we’ve got you covered. Just remember to always drink responsibly and keep that number to the taxi service handy. We hope you enjoy this edition of Gourmet Today and would like to wish you a merry Christmas. We look forward to receiving your comments and suggestions. Bon appetit!
4 www.gourmettoday.recipes
Pippa Matte
i
Nick Formos
Kristianne
a
Azzopardi
Pascal Holla n
d
Sasha
Shumarayev
a
Nicola Collin
s
Ramon Musc
at
Amy Micalle Decesare
f
Italy’s Finest in Malta Italian Food Market Coming Soon at Ta’ L-Ibrag Road (corner with Triq il-Modd)
42
CONTENTS Contact us
8
Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt
DECEMBER 2016
GOURMET TODAY WISH LIST These are a few of our favourite things
13 TABLE-HOPPING We just love to eat out. These are our favourites this festive season
Design: Kevin Grech Photography: Chris Mangion, Steph Scicluna, Rachel Zammit Cutajar, Marc Edward Pace, Glen Slatterly and Jonas Kempter
27 PIPPA’S GERMAN CHRISTMAS Pippa Mattei cooks a Christmas meal inspired by her trip to Germany
Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia afarrugia@mediatoday.com.mt Contact for advertising: Philippa Zammit pzammit@mediatoday.com.mt
Published by:
Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 2138 2741 Fax: +356 2138 1992 www.maltatoday.com.mt
ISSU
www.g
ourme
.recipe ttoday
E 43
• Dec
ember
CH T R H ED IST E IT M IO AS N
2016
DRINK AND BE MERRY
s
THE FESTIVE SEASON AT THE THIRSTY BARBER
Cover: Gin and Tonic at The Thirsty Barber Photo by Marc Edward Pace
Printed at: Print It Printing Services
6 www.gourmettoday.recipes
CHRIS
TMAS
GOOS
E
SARD
INIAN
SPECIA
LS
CHRIS
TMAS
GOOD
IES
65
27
24
43 FAMILY DAYS IN THE KITCHEN From wines to whiskies, bars to recipes, we’ve got you covered for festive tipple
63 AVOIDING A WASTEFUL CHRISTMAS Michael Diacono gives us some tips on saving both food and money! 65 MAKING USE OF THE BIG BIRD Tired of turkey sandwiches? Try these turkey recipes 69 FESTIVE FAMILY MEALS Our homecooks share the work to make a stress-free family meal for the Christmas season 75 CHEF OF THE MONTH Who are The Definitive(ly) Good Guide’s Chef of the month?
www.gourmettoday.recipes 7
WISH LIST
Christmas is close enough for most people to be worrying about Christmas presents but still far enough for most of us to have done nothing about it. A job in food media comes with the greatest of occupational hazards. We come across way too many items that we just have to have. These are some of the items that have topped our wish list this season. Whether you’re looking for the perfect Christmas gift for a foodie, or just looking to treat yourself, these are certainly worth checking out
22 CARAT GOLD EMBELLISHED MUGS MUGS BY HENRI These elegant fine bone china mugs are embellished with 22 carat gold and are part of a wide selection of cups, mugs and other unique tableware items. For unique Christmas gifts with great discounts, visit the Open Week, 2-13 December.
Available from HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique, Pjazza Tigné & Mdina (next to Palazzo Falson). Contact: 2010 6306, www.henri.com.mt or facebook/henrimalta
CHEDDAR CHEESE THAT WINS AWARDS SNOWDONIA LITTLE BLACK BOMBER Where cheddars are concerned, this multi-award winning Little Black Bomber is a modern classic. Marrying a delicious rich flavour with a smooth creaminess, that is long-lasting on the palate yet remaining demandingly moreish! So much so that is has achieved awards at The Great British Cheese Awards, Nantwich International Cheese Awards, the World Cheese Awards and a Super Gold at Mondial Fromage in France. Available from leading foodstores and supermarkets.
Distributed by Nectar, Vjal L-Istadjum Nazzjonali, Ta’ Qali. Tel: +356 20140000 8 www.gourmettoday.recipes
WISH LIST A BOTTLE OF FINE SCOTCH BALLANTINE’S WHISKIES We love good products with a good story and Ballantine’s ticks all the right boxes. Named after the founding family of the company, Ballantine’s is one of the classic blends, created as the house whisky of the family’s grocery in the mid-1800s. Over the years it has grown to be one of the best-selling Scotch whiskies in the world, with a flavour profile focused around single malts from Miltonduff and Glenburgie. Ballantine’s whiskies you can expect to find in Malta are Ballantine’s Finest, Ballantine’s 12YO, Ballantine’s 17YO, Ballantine’s 21YO and Ballantine’s 30YO.
TRY BALLANTINE’S FINEST TASTING NOTES Nose: Soft, elegant, heather honey aromas with a hint of spice. Taste: Well-balanced subtle flavours with tones of milk chocolate, red apple and vanilla. Body: Rounded. Character: Soft, sweet and complex. Colour: A light gold. Finish: The sophisticated after-taste gives a fresh, floral and rounded glow.
Ballantine’s is marketed and distributed by Farsons Beverage Imports Co. Ltd. The Brewery, Mdina Road. Mriehel. BKR3000. Trade Enquiry 2381 4400
BURGERS THAT BITE BACK HANGOUT BAR AND KITCHEN The gourmet burger trend continues to grow and we’re always on the lookout for really great burgers that give proper respect to quality ingredients. The vast range of burgers, patties, toppings and other bits and bites at Hangout Bar and Kitchen make us wish it was lunchtime. Though having said that, they are open from 7:30am till 11:00pm, so it’s always lunchtime!
Available from Hangout Bar and Kitchen, Triq l-Espranto, Msida. Tel: 2700 1116
www.gourmettoday.recipes 9
COOKING EXPERTISE PIPPA MATTEI’S COOKBOOKS We love a good cookbook and its even better when the said cookbook is by a local writer. Why you ask? Well, you can be sure that they are using the local ingredients when they are at their best. We have to admit that we are a bit biased towards this particular writer – mostly because we love absolutely everything she does. As do the people who run The Gourmand World Cookbook Awards who thought it fit to bestow upon Pippa’s Festa the Entertainment Award in 2010. Her first solo book 25 Years In A Maltese Kitchen is now also available in Maltese. Either (or both) of these make great gifts or stocking fillers for any food lover. Books are available for purchase online at www.mirandabooks.com with free delivery to Malta and Gozo.
For more info contact Miranda Books: 21343772 – 99473123, info@mirandabooks.com
LUXURY FOOD HAMPERS The S. RAUSI TRADING GIFT LIST 2016 includes a selection of Maltese and imported wines, spirits, confectionery items and other delicacies which are reasonably priced and which will make the perfect gift this Christmas. A delivery service is available to all parts of the island at no extra cost. Please visit our website www.srausi. com for the full gift list and further information.
S. Rausi Trading Ltd. info@srausi.com Tel: 2133 0477, 2131 6210, 7949 6221.
FLICKS TUMBLERS & JUGS Available in a range of colour patterns, these brand new handmade ‘Flicks’ tumblers and jugs are a pleasure to behold and a joy to drink from. Free Malta delivery on orders of €30 or more. Make it a point to visit the Mdina Glass Open Week, 2-13 December for great discounts.
Available from Mdina Glass outlets or online at www.mdinaglass.com.mt. For more info contact 2141 5786 or onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt facebook.com/mdinaglass
10 www.gourmettoday.recipes
WISH LIST THE PERFECT PLACE TO GET MERRY THIS CHRISTMAS
HAND CURED SALUMI GOLFERA We love this exquisite range of fine ‘salumi’ by Golfera. Obtained from carefully cured hand salted high quality meats, these items go through production processes dating back to a time when first generation Italian ‘salumieri’ took pride in hand crafting delicacies. Available from leading foodstores and supermarkets.
Distributed by Nectar, Vjal L-Istadjum Nazzjonali, Ta’ Qali. Tel: +356 20140000.
TA’ MARIJA There’s nowhere quite like Ta’ Marija for a Christmas and New Year’s Eve party, or simply to meet up with family or friends during the festive season. Combining delicious food and drink with an exciting and friendly atmosphere, they have everything you need for a truly magical dining experience. Awarded for 10 times as the Best Maltese Food Restaurant right up to 2016, the stylish surroundings are matched by the quality of their menu and varied entertainment line-up including popular singer Corazon and resident DJ. Add personal service and an extensive wine and desserts list and it’s the perfect place to enjoy a festive feast. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, with Maltese themed nights every Wednesday or Friday (complete with folk dancers, mandolins and guitars) and an all-inclusive carvery buffet on Saturdays nights and Sunday lunches for only €25, with a singular show every Saturday night.
For more info visit www.tamarija.com or call on 2143 4444.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 11
HOME FINANCING SOLUTIONS
MAKING LIFE SIMPLE FOR YOU We make your home loan selection simple by providing clear terms for all of our products. Contact us today to find out more. We think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
psbank
facebook.com/a
2122 6644
apsbank.com.mt
values you can bank on
APS12 Bankwww.gourmettoday.recipes Ltd. is licensed by the Malta Financial Services Authority. Any loan application is subject to lending criteria and final approval by the respective branch.
Table-hopping As much as we love to cook at Gourmet Today, we also love to eat out. New restaurants are popping up all over the island, some that stay and some that don’t seem to make it. We take it upon ourselves to find out which ones are worth your while‌ a job we take very seriously. These are our favourite tables this festive season. PHOTO: DIAR IL-BNIET
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE AT BRASS & KNUCKLE
Brass & Knuckle has been building a reputation for itself as one of the top steak houses on the island. But what not everyone knows is that they also have the most incredible delicatessen counter exclusive meat counter, meaning you can also buy meat to take home. NICOLA COLLINS heads down there to see exactly what’s on offer
L
ocated in central Naxxar, a stone’s throw away from the parish church, sits the rather impressive Brass & Knuckle. A dream come true for meat lovers and for those who enjoy a finer eating experience at a very reasonable price. With seven generations of butchers behind him and many years’ experience in the delicatessen trade, owner, Mark Zammit certainly knows what he is doing. Opening at 8am and closing at midnight, offering everything in one place, Brass & Knuckle not only offers breakfasts, lunches and evening meals for those who wish to dine in, but also an exclusive delicatessen counter, exclusive meat counter and ‘takeaway’ service with a twist. The deli counter doesn’t have your standard cheeses and processed ham, but a selection of, to name a few, dried meats, cheeses from France, charcuterie from Lyon and Italy and fresh quiches, pies, and gourmet dips all made on the premises. The butcher’s counter is another force to be reckoned with. 14 www.gourmettoday.recipes
Wagyu Kobe beef, Aberdeen Angus, Charolais and milk-fed veal are some of the meats on offer, all sold at retail price. For an unarguably reasonable set price, you also have the option of choosing your type of cut and weight and having it cooked on the premises to eat in or take away. Whether it’s a meal for one or catering for a group, it appears Brass & Knuckle offer excellent value for all their cliental. I arrive at B&K midmorning, a few hours after my breakfast and knowing I have a meal with friends in the evening. Although the temptation is overwhelming to order a main meal of eight-hour slow-cooked pork cheeks with buttery mash, a pan glaze and a side order of truffle fries, I resist and opt for a more suitably sized Croque Monsieur. Boasting an Executive Chef who previously worked at five star Gleneagles, Scotland, I am quietly confident in the knowledge that
whatever I order will be divine. Sipping my latte, I have a browse through the menu again. Not only can you choose your cut of meat, but the menu also gives descriptions of their origins and how they are bred. Who knew that milk-fed calves produce a pale pink veal whereas grain fed produce a fattier meat? I certainly didn’t. There are choices for non-meat lovers too, so you could visit Brass & Knuckle safe in the knowledge that everyone would find something they like on the menu to suit them. My meal arrives in no time at all. I certainly wasn’t disappointed. Beautiful tender smoked ham on thickly sliced sesame seed toast with melted French Comté cheese and Dijon mustard. On the side, a leafy salad with roasted peppers and tomatoes and a harissa dip. A perfect early lunch that I could not fault. Leaving a clean plate and glancing through the recipes printed on my place mat I head for the door, but not before paying a visit to the deli counter on my way!
TABLE-HOPPING
Brass & Knuckle Oratory Street, Naxxar Tel: 27222722 Web: www.brassandknuckle.com brassandknuckle
EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY
It’s Christmas at the Corinthia Palace
Festive fun and glamour combine in unmatched surroundings at the Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa this season. Here JO CARUANA discovers why this beautiful hotel really is the ultimate destination for a Christmas and New Year to remember.
T
here’s nothing quite like the run-up to Christmas in a hotel kitchen. The creativity, the challenges and late nights that go into ensuring that every guest is well looked after over the festive season. Christmas has been a special time at the Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa since it first opened its doors in 1968. From the beautiful decorations in the lobby to the lively celebrations in the Villa Corinthia, the hotel has long been a Christmas institution – a destination that can be counted on to make this special time of year extraordinary. This year will be no different. From the Lighting Ceremony, the kick-start to their festive season, to its highly-anticipated New Year’s Eve gala dinner, the hotel promises to bring sparkle and excellence to every event. THE LIGHTING CEREMONY 8 December 2016 A true Corinthia Palace institution,
16 www.gourmettoday.recipes
the annual Lighting Ceremony brings a sense of celebration and festive sprit to the start of December. The evening begins with mulled wine, chestnuts and a performance of choral carols, followed by a scrumptious dinner by candlelight in the Villa Corinthia and – the culmination – the switching-on of the hotel’s beautiful Christmas lights! It really does get the season off to the ultimate start. THE FESTIVE SEASON Here’s something they can guarantee: there’s nowhere more magical for you to spend the festive season than at the Corinthia Palace. To celebrate this special time of year, the hotel will be hosting numerous events between Christmas and New Year’s Day. These include a four-course dinner in the Villa Corinthia on 24 December, an early morning Christmas buffet breakfast and a lavish Christmas
Day buffet on 25 December, a fantastic feast at the Rickshaw on New Year’s Eve, and an extravagant New Year’s Day buffet on 1 January. All of the menus have been beautifully crafted by the Corinthia Palace’s chefs, and live entertainment will accompany most events. NEW YEAR’S EVE – THAT’S AMORE 31 December 2016 The Corinthia Palace’s now-famous, larger-than-life Villa Corinthia New Year’s Eve party returns with a fantastic new theme to welcome 2017 – That’s Amore. Embracing the beauty of Italian culture in the 1950s, the evening will be resplendent with delicious food, incredible entertainment and red carpet style – complete with paparazzi! Tickets for this unmissable event are €210 per person.
TABLE-HOPPING
Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa De Paule Avenue, Attard Tel: 2144 0301 Email: events.palace@corinthia.com Corinthia-Palace-Hoteland-Spa
SIX COURSES OFF THE BRAND NEW MENU OF PERFECTION Any regular Gourmet readers know that we are huge fans of Palazzo Castelletti and we will not deny that their quarterly menu change is penciled into our diaries. This time AMY MICALLEF DECESARE does the honours of trying out their new menu and as we suspected, she was not disappointed
S
ituated in the heart of Rabat, Palazzo Castelletti is a hidden gem. A stone’s throw from Crystal Palace, or ‘Serkin’ as many of us lovingly refer to it, I knew we were in for something special. The Palazzo is as pleasing to the eyes as the vitello tonnato was to our stomachs. Palazzo Castelletti operates three completely different restaurants: San Andrea, a delightful a la carte fine dining establishment, RedWhite, the pizza, pasta and grill operation and Trois, a coffee shop which transforms beautifully into a wine bar upon sundown. The Palazzo has effectively revolutionised the art of dining, ensuring that they can cater for every single person who walks through their doors. Our meal took place on the third anniversary of restoration of the magnificent 400-year-old Palazzo. Having maintained an incredibly high standard throughout the past three years, all three establishments have consistently received the highest ratings possible from all available reviewing agencies. That being said, I was just itching to see for myself what the hype was all about. My guest and I, amongst another 60 or so other patrons, were treated to the quarterly menu launch of the San Andrea restaurant. We had been psyching ourselves up for what was to come all day and believe you me; it was worth it. Starting off with a bang, we were served our amuse bouche, round one of six. The warm, crisp frittatini with a carbonaralike filling were just what was needed to whet our appetite and prepare us for what was to come. If the amuse bouche was anything to go by, we were in for a treat. Within minutes, we were faced with round two: thinly sliced veal with a thick, rich tonnato sauce, contrasted perfectly with the sharp tangy caper berries and the fresh crunch of the rucola. Finished off with just a dash of sweet paprika, the dish was a delicious roller-coaster ride for our palettes. 18 www.gourmettoday.recipes
As we waited for round three, my guest and I escaped for a few minutes and wandered around the grounds of the Palazzo. We were taken aback by the stunning décor and overall ambiance that the management has created, their evident care for the building as well as a keen eye for detail. It’s no wonder many have opted for the Palazzo as their wedding venues. As we wandered through the grounds, we were suddenly struck by a wave of panic. The mere thought of our next course being served without us was too much to bear and we legged it back to our table. We made it just in time as the friendly waiter brought over our favourite dish of the night: the risotto nero di sepia. The combination of a chilly November evening and a warm satisfying bowl of risotto was just what we needed. As we dug in, not a word was exchanged between us. The perfect char-grilled squid lay atop a large portion of creamy, black risotto, flavoured with subtle hints of garlic and marjoram, we were two happy campers. Once we had cleaned our plates, we were in desperate need of some sort of intermission. It was at this point that we were presented with a fresh, palettecleansing lemon cream mandarin sorbet,
topped with fresh fruit and served in a champagne flute. Contrasting delightfully with the previous courses, San Andrea staff knew exactly what they were doing. We were not done yet, however. Round five: braised pork cheeks with potato puree and root vegetables, along with a separate bowl of perfectly seasoned roast potatoes. The pork had that melt-in-yourmouth quality about it and the vegetables were presented in the form of delightful little crisps, making it an absolute breeze to get through the course. Our stomachs begged us to stop but we had already gotten too far. We were served our dessert: homemade marshmallow bars, served with roast peaches and delectable white chocolate ice cream. A dish reminiscent of our childhood with a fine dining twist. As the meal came to a close, we thought it best to finish off the night with espresso lungos; just the kick we needed to ensure that we would make it home without slipping into satisfying food comas. Walking out into the chilly air, we couldn’t help but smile. Whether it’s a party you’re planning or a romantic meal for two, I strongly urge you to find out for yourself what the hype is all about. This is a personal guarantee that you will be walking out with the very same smile.
TABLE-HOPPING
Palazzo Castelletti St Paul’s Street, Rabat Tel: 21452562 Web: www.palazzocastelletti.com
Palazzo-Castelletti
A TASTE OF CHINA IN THE MEDITERRANEAN Being in the Mediterranean means there is no shortage of really good Mediterranean restaurants. However when it comes to oriental food it is difficult to find ones that serve authentic quality food. Nan Yuan on the Waterfront in Valletta does that. KRISTAINNE AZZOPARDI gets a taste of truly authentic Cantonese food
S
ituated on the scenic Valletta Waterfront, Nan Yuan is a little taste of China amongst a collection of Mediterranean restaurants. Charmaine and her husband Lee seem to have found the perfect combination of décor, music, and food to set the perfect ambiance at their restaurant. With Charmaine as front of house and Lee as head chef, they insist on the importance of the smooth-running of their restaurant, and aim to give their guests the most enjoyable and memorable experience of Cantonese-style dining they possibly can. They always aim to welcome and please their guests, and are happy to be at your service. Upon my arrival I was greeted by Charmaine, who kindly showed me to my table. After a few minutes she brought out a pot of refreshing Chinese green tea. This can be enjoyed both before and after your meal as it is both refreshing and light. It is also ideal as a palate cleanser between courses so that you can fully enjoy the new tastes and flavours that every dish has to offer.
20 www.gourmettoday.recipes
The first dish was a bountiful platter of mixed hors d’oeuvres which consisted of vegetable spring rolls, duck spring rolls, pork spare ribs, chicken wings, samosas, dumplings and various meat-stuffed dim sums. The hors d’oeuvres were freshly prepared and incredibly tasty. This was certainly the ideal way to kick off my meal. The next dish was the aromatic duck accompanied by steamed pancakes, a variety of chopped vegetables and hoisin sauce. The combination of flavours from the crispy aromatic duck – ever so tasty hoisin sauce and crunchy fresh vegetables wrapped up inside a steamed pancake – turned out to be a parcel bursting with flavour. Following this dish, were the restaurant’s very own special vermicelli noodles together garlic chicken and pork in plum sauce. These included a medley of chopped vegetables and chicken strips, and were generously seasoned with an array of spices. It was the optimal dish to accompany the sweet and tender pork in plum sauce, and the salty and crispy garlic chicken. My guest and I were served a very
light, fruity and crisp Rose Wine; Pink Giovello, which was carefully selected by Charmaine so as to enhance the experience of the different flavours offered by the food prepared by Lee. All food dishes were decorated artistically, with flower or swan carvings created using fruit or vegetables. This completed each dish’s presentation, and exposed the chef ’s creativity. In spite of the horrible weather, Charmaine and Lee still managed to set the ultimate traditional and cosy atmosphere with soft classical music in the background, traditional Chinese decorations, and appropriately dim lighting which added a lovely atmosphere for a perfect afternoon. This was a quality lunch experience. Great food. Tremendous service. Fantastic décor. I would certainly love to revisit Charmaine and Lee again, whether with family, friends or some colleagues, for any occasion or to simply satisfy a craving for some delicious Cantonese cuisine, which happens to be a personal favourite.
TABLE-HOPPING
Nan Yuan Valletta Waterfront, Valletta Tel: 21225310 Web: www.nanyuanmalta.com/
Nan Yuan Valletta Waterfront
A YEAR IN THE VILLAGE It has been almost a year to the day since Tal-Villagg opened its doors, much to the delight of the Lija locals and foodies from further afield. We caught up with owner/manager Johan to talk about what it’s been like.
Y
ou’d think that with his vast experience and the quality of the experience on offer at Tal-Villagg, Johan would really have nothing to worry about. Still, he will admit that at the start, he was willing to give the venture a test run and then decide whether to keep going from there. The tiny venue has become a second home for both Johan and his wife Lucienne, and their guests. “It feels like our clients are sitting in our living room, sharing a meal and a drink with us,” Johan says, before going on to explain that despite his years of experience in the restaurant business, he had never had the opportunity to build relationships with his customers like he does now. The short menu and the small size of the establishment mean that every meal is an intimate affair and Johan explains that it is not unusual for different groups of customers to start conversations with one another over a bottle of wine. The customers themselves have responded remarkably well to the ambience of Tal-Villagg. Johan recalls that over time, the customers who were looking for the relaxed evening, with
22 www.gourmettoday.recipes
quality food and carefully selected wines and whiskys, seemed to gravitate towards it. The success of private events is also a testament to Johan’s attention to detail and willingness to go the extra mile for his customers. He enjoys tailor-making menus to suit his customers, whose preferences he has memorised, and there has been no shortage of appreciation for his hard work. Customers realize that what Johan offers them is hard to come by in a food scene that is becoming increasingly preoccupied with fanfare and performance. The menu, although only occupying a small chalkboard on the wall at TalVillagg, is evidence of Johan’s experience with fine dining. He enjoys offering dishes that are, on their surface, a throwback to the cooking you remember eating at your grandma’s dinner table, but with some extra oomph – an unusual ingredient, an unexpected twist. Tal-Villagg has set down some deep roots in this cozy little venue in Lija and it’s clear that Johan has come up with
a winning formula that customers love and that keeps them coming back time and again.
TABLE-HOPPING
Tal-Villagg Cafe & Wine Lounge 77, Triq il-Forn, Lija. Tel: 27427058 • 9940 4487 Email: talvillagg@gmail.com
talvillagglounge
PHOTOGRAPHY: GLEN SLATTERLY
TAKE A PIECE OF XARA HOME We all love that little bit of luxury and Infinitely Xara does that particularly well. Though most of us are familiar with their stunning venues, it came to us as news that they also do outside catering. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE gets a look at some of the things they do that will take the stress out of your festive season
T
he Infinitely Xara brand is just that: infinite. Providing you with endless possibilities, the brand is all encompassing and includes The Xara Palace Relais & Chataeux, The Xara Lodge, Palazzo de Piro, and The Medina Restaurant.
24 www.gourmettoday.recipes
The brand is and always has been synonymous with extravagant, stunning events and with the festive season fast approaching, what better time to get in touch? Infinitely Xara, which specializes in outside catering, has made it their
mission to ease the pressure often associated with hosting events. Short of giving you a back massage, the staff does everything in their power to ensure that your event is an absolute success. By providing you with a stunning venue choice, a magnificent array of specialty food items and stellar service, every minute detail is taken into consideration. Seeing as the festive season tends to bring about its own set of worries and stresses, we’d recommend you call Infinitely Xara sooner rather than later. Be it a birthday, wedding, corporate event or festive celebration, they’ve got you covered. Expertly trained staff members collaborate to provide clients with fresh new ideas, the most exciting of which are their mouth-watering menus. Specifically tailored for you, their Chef de Cuisine and his kitchen brigade work together to make your wildest festive dreams come true, creating showstopping party pieces that your guests will talk about for weeks to come. Sit back, relax, pair one of their elegant hors d’oeuvres with a fine glass of bubbly and let Infinitely Xara host your Christmas party this year; you definitely won’t be disappointed.
TABLE-HOPPING
Infinitely Xara Tel: 2145 0560 Email: info@xaracollection.com Web: www.xarapalace.com.mt
infinitelyxara
MEZE I CAFÉ
Ibragg Road, Ta’ L-Ibrag • Tel: 2713 8540
PIPPA MATTEI
PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPH SCICLUNA
A GERMAN CHRISTMAS On a recent visit to Frankfurt, I was inspired to cook some German Christmas goodies. Here I have given you a selection of them. Instead of cooking a turkey, why not roast a goose? Ideal for a family of eight and accompanied by dumplings and red cabbage, this is a delicious alternative for a Christmas meal. With a starter of pumpkin and chestnut soup and dessert of baked apples, stollen for tea and a glass of gluehwein this is a complete German Christmas meal.
Get more of Pippa’s recipes in her book Pippa’s Festa.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 27
3 AM
PIPPA MATTEI
PUMPKIN AND CHESTNUT SOUP Serves 8 Ingredients • • • • • • • • •
900g pumpkin, roughly chopped 1 red onion, roughly chopped 4 cloves garlic, peeled 200g cooked and peeled unsweetened chestnuts 1.4 litres vegetable stock 1 orange, zest and juice 50g butter, softened 1 tsp chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1 tbsp fresh chives, chopped, plus extra to garnish
Method 1. Preheat the oven to 150C. 2. Put the pumpkin, onion and garlic in a large ovenproof pan with the chestnuts, reserving 25g. 3. Pour in the hot stock, cover and bring to the boil, then cook in the oven for 2½ hours until the vegetables are tender. Allow to cool. 4. Puree the soup with the orange juice and season. 5. Dry-fry the reserved chestnuts in a pan till golden. Cool and finely chop the chestnuts, then beat together in a bowl with the butter, orange zest, chilli and chopped chives. Cover and chill till firm. 6. Reheat the soup. Divide among eight bowls and serve topped with a tsp of the chestnut butter and extra chives.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 29
30 www.gourmettoday.recipes
PIPPA MATTEI
www.gourmettoday.recipes 31
STUFFED GOOSE WITH APPLES AND PRUNES Ingredients • 1 goose, with giblets weighing 4.5 kg • Salt and pepper • Fresh thyme FOR THE PRUNES • 350g no-soak prunes • 150ml Armagnac • 50g granulated sugar FOR THE APPLE STUFFING • 700g green apples (cooking apples) cut roughly into 1cm slices • 225 no-soak prunes, roughly chopped • 1 large onion, roughly chopped • 2 tbsp Armagnac • Pinch ground cloves • Pinch grated nutmeg FOR THE PORK SAUSAGE MEAT STUFFING • 1 goose liver, finely chopped • 1 red apple, cored and finely chopped (no need to peel) • 275g minced pork or two large Maltese sausages • 1 medium onion, finely chopped • 50g plain flour • 1 tbsp chopped sage FOR GLAZING • 1 tbsp honey • 1 tbsp butter, • 1 tbsp soya sauce Method 1. Put the prunes into a saucepan with the Armagnac and sugar. 2. Bring up to simmering point, then cool, cover and keep in the fridge. 3. Preheat oven to 220°C. 4. Make the apple stuffing by mixing all the ingredients together and make and make the pork stuffing, also by mixing all the ingredients together. 5. When you are ready to cook the goose, begin by placing the pork meat stuffing into the neck flap end of the bird, pressing it in as far as you can, tucking the neck flap all around it and patting it with your hands to make a rounded shape. Secure the flap underneath with a small skewer. 6. Place the apple stuffing in the body cavity. 7. Dry the goose skin, and season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with thyme leaves. 8. Mix all the ingredients of the glaze all over the goose, and place the bird on the rack in the oven pan. Put into a pre-heated oven cook for 30 mins. 9. Reduce the temperate to 180°C and roast for a further 2 ½ hours. 32 www.gourmettoday.recipes
GIBLET GRAVY Ingredients Stock • The goose giblets • 1 onion, sliced in half • 1 carrot, sliced in half lengthways • A few parsley stalks • 1 celery stalk and leaves • 1 bay leaf • 6 black peppercorns • Salt and pepper • 900ml water Gravy • 2 tbsp flour • 1 glass red wine • Gravy seasoning (stock pot) Method 1. Wash the giblets, put them in a saucepan with the halved onion, then cover with the water and bring to simmering point. 2. After removing scum with a draining spoon, add the remaining ingredients and half cover the pan with a lid and simmer for at least 1 hour. Strain the stock, cool and store covered, in the fridge. 3. When the goose is cooked the juices, remove the bird
4.
to a serving dish, snap off the wing tips and allow to rest for 20 mins before serving. Drain off the fat from the roasting tin and make a rich dark gravy from the remaining residue. Add the flour, red wine and stock pot along with the giblet stock and allow to simmer until thick.
PIPPA MATTEI BREAD DUMPLINGS (SEMMELKNOEDEL) Ingredients • 450g stale French bread, cut into 1-inch cubes • 200ml milk • 60g butter • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 tbsp fresh parsley • 2 eggs • ½ teaspoon salt • Pinch black pepper • 50g plain flour
Method 1. Place the bread cubes into a large bowl. 2. Heat the milk until it starts to bubble at the edges, then pour it over the bread cubes. Stir briefly to coat the bread. Let to soak for 15 minutes. 3. Melt the butter in a pan over medium heat. 4. Add the onions, cook and stir till tender. Stir in the parsley, and remove from the heat and add to the bread.
5. 6. 7.
8.
Mix in the eggs, salt and pepper. Use your hands, squeezing the dough through your fingers until it is smooth and sticky. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. The water should be at least 3 or 4 inches deep. When the water is boiling, roll balls of dumpling mix in the flour, and place into the boiling water. Simmer for about 20 mins and set aside.
BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH APPLES Ingredients • 1kg red cabbage, shredded • 450g onions, finely chopped • 450g cooking apples, peeled, cored and finely chopped • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped • ¼ tsp grated nutmeg • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon • ¼ tsp ground cloves • 3 tbsp brown sugar • 3 tbsp wine vinegar • 15g butter • Salt and pepper
Method 1. Preheat the oven to 150°C. 2. In a large casserole, arrange a layer of shredded cabbage and some seasoning, then a layer of onion and apples with a sprinkling of garlic, spices and sugar. Continue with these alternate layers until everything is in. 3. Now pour in the wine vinegar and lastly add dots of butter on the top. Put a tight lid on the casserole and let it cook slowly
in the oven for 2 – 2½ hours, stirring everything around once during the cooking.
This dish ca prepared be n be and warmed forehand ready to serup when also f reeze ve. It s well.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 33
34 www.gourmettoday.recipes
STOLLEN Ingredients • 350g strong white bread flour • ¼ tsp salt • 2 tsp easy-blend yeast • 50g caster sugar • 150ml milk • 110g softened butter • 1 egg, beaten • 40g currants • 50g sultanas • 40g dried apricots, chopped • 40g dried cranberries • 25g candid peel, chopped • 25g almonds, chopped • 1 lemon, zest only • 175g marzipan Glaze • 110g icing sugar, sifted • 2 tbsp lemon juice Method 1. First sift 300g of the flour together with the salt into a mixing bowl. Sprinkle in the easy-blend yeast and sugar and give it all a stir before making a well in the centre. 2. Pour in the milk, then add the softened butter and beaten egg. 3. Mix everything together, either with your hands or with a wooden spoon – until the mixture is well blended and leaves the side of the bowl cleanly. 4. Work in the fruits, peel, nuts and lemon zest, distributing them as evenly as possible. Knead the dough on a work surface sprinkled with 25g of the remaining flour for 5 mins, until it is springy and elastic. 5. Leave the dough in the bowl in a warm place, covered with cling film, until it has doubled in size. 6. Turn the risen dough out on to a board dusted with the remaining flour and knock the air out of it and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic. 7. Roll or press out the dough into an oblong 25 x 20cm. Using your hands, roll or press out the marziapan to form a sausage shape and place this along the centre of the dough, finishing just short of the edges. 8. Fold the dough over the marzipan and carefully place the whole thing on the lightly greased baking sheet, allowing room for expansion. 9. Leave it to prove in a warm place until it has doubled in size again. 10. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 190°C for 30-40 mins. 11. Make the glaze by mixing the sifted icing sugar with the lemon juice and spread over the top surface of the stollen (while it is still warm). 12. Serve as fresh as possible, cut into thick slices, with or without butter.
PROVING TIME THE TIME IT TAKES TO PROVE DEPENDS ON THE SURROUNDING TEMPERATURE AND MAY TAKE UP TO 2 HOURS
GERMAN BAKED APPLES WITH MARZIPAN Ingredients Homemade marizpan • 250 g almonds ground • 100g icing sugar • 100g sugar • ¼ tsp vanilla extract • ¼ lemon juice • 1 tbsp Maltese ilma zahar (optional) • 1 tsp brandy • A little water Apples • 6-8 red apples, same size • 50g marzipan • 25g icing sugar • 1 tbsp rum • 2 tbsp candied ginger, chopped • 2 tbsp flaked almonds • 1 cup white wine • 25g butter Method 1. To make the marzipan, ground almonds with sugars, extract, lemon juice, ilma zahar (if using) till well bound. 2. Add brandy and then blend in and add water till you get the right consistency. Wrap in cling film till ready to use. 3. To make the apples, remove stem, crown and core, but not the bottom (do this carefully with corer and teaspoon). 4. Knead marzipan with the icing sugar and rum, add the chopped ginger and mix well. 5. Fill apples with the mixture. 6. Place in ovenproof dish and pour wine around the apples. 7. Sprinkle apples with almond flakes and dot with little pieces of butter. 8. Cover with foil. Bake at 220°C for about ½ an hour or till apples are very tender.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 35
MULLED WINE (GLUEHWEIN) Makes 750ml Ingredients • 300ml water • 100g sugar • 4 cloves • 2 cinnamon stick • 5 cardamom pods • 2 lemons, thinly sliced • 1 bottle Burgundy or claret • 1 orange thinly sliced 36 www.gourmettoday.recipes
Method 1. Put the water, sugar and spices in a large saucepan. Bring to the boil. 2. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemons. Leave to stand 10 minutes. 3. Add the wine and heat through without boiling. Strain into heated punch bowl or another pot. 4. Add the orange slices and serve hot.
WHERE TASTE MEETS TRADITION AT THE DIAR IL-BNIET At Gourmet Today we always recommend buying local. This not only supports local farmers but also ensures the best quality of ingredients as produce does not have to travel very far. Think how haggard you feel after a long haul flight. Now impose those conditions on a peach! Diar il-Bniet does local best of all with all produce coming from their land just two metres away. NICOLA COLLINS heads to Dingli to find out what they are offering this Christmas
I
n the heart of Dingli sits the rather eye catching, Misfud family owned, Diar ilBniet. With Bougainvillea in full bloom climbing the walls outside, and boasting both an authentic shop and restaurant inside, it would be almost impossible to walk by without calling in to take a closer look. The restaurant’s accompanying farm is situated a mere two minutes away. The vast Bniet Valley stretches as far as Chadwick Lakes Valley. With Dingli being the highest point in Malta, the farm receives the purest of water helping to produce the ripest of crops which are brought straight to your table. Offering farm visits, fresh produce and delicious meals at the restaurant, Diar il-Bniet certainly has a lot to offer. Accompanied by my friend, we pop in for a spot of lunch and are immediately greeted by the welcoming aromas of delicious, traditional Maltese food, in a farmhouse style setting that is simple, rustic and beautifully laid out. Sipping the exquisite wine produced from grapes from the farm, we share a platter of ‘Togħmiet Minn Fuq L-Ixkaffef Tal Ħanut Tagħna’, translation, Flavours
38 www.gourmettoday.recipes
from the Shelves of our Shop. A wonderful selection of pickled eggs, sheep’s milk cheese, broad beans with garlic, aged sundried tomatoes, olives, capers and pickled onions all served with fresh bread and mini jars of quince jam, basil oil, tomato paste and beetroot pickle. To follow, a dessert platter, mince pies, Maltese bread cake and halva, beautifully presented, yet still maintaining that homecooked appearance. Finally, some jam tasting. All available from the shop, these jams only contain natural preservatives and each jar is handmade by a family member following age-old recipes that have been passed down from generation to generation. From garnished broad beans to pomegranate jam, the whole lunch was very aptly described by my friend as a ‘carnival of flavours’. Diar il-Bniet is unique. With all family members involved, all produce and ingredients come from their land. The menu changes with each season. All food is prepared using traditional recipes and following traditional methods. Side orders
include jacket potatoes and roasted vegetables – you won’t find any chips here! With Christmas preparations in full swing, I was lucky enough to spend some time with the company’s artisan, Rebecca. Creating wonderful original Christmas decorations from her workshop, Rebecca uses recycled materials and forage from the land making each piece original. Her Christmas hampers make wonderful gifts, beautifully presented so that decoration is minimal yet effective, making the contents more important. There is the opportunity to also create your own hamper. Fresh produce hampers can be made and children’s hampers are available containing a handmade moulded figures and mini pots of paint and not forgetting that all important Christmas chocolate. With two menus available throughout the festive season (even the turkeys are bred on the farm) and a set menu for Christmas Day and New Year’s Day, this is a diner’s experience not to be missed at any time of the year.
TABLE-HOPPING
Diar Il-Bniet 121 Main Street, Had-Dingli. DGL 1942 Tel: 2762 0727 Web: www.diarilbniet.com diarilbniet
COME AND ENJOY A FALL COCKTAIL. So called on account of the season, not the effect it has on you. Our Fall cocktails include The Hyperion, The Fall Rum Sour, The Ginger Apricot Fizz and the delightful Moon Festival. To sample these, and a whole host of stylish cocktails, pop over to the Palace, come and prop up the bar.
Some secrets are best shared. Palazzo Parisio, Victory Square, Naxxar, Malta. Tel +356 21412461 info@palazzoparisio.com www.palazzoparisio.com http://www.facebook.com/palazzoparisio
GETTING INTO THE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT The festive season is the time to indulge a little in drink as well as food. Whether you’re looking for the perfect gift – a great bottle of whisky is always appreciated - or you are looking for a great bottle of red to serve with Christmas lunch, or are simply looking for a good Christmas cocktail to serve around the festivities, we’ve got you covered. Just remember to drink responsibly and keep the number of a taxi service handy.
PHOTOGRAPHY: MARC EDWARD PACE
GROWN UP COCKTAILS AND GROWNUP CONVERSATION The Thirsty Barber opened its doors just four months ago to rave reviews. Anyone avoiding the place because it is in the heart of Paceville should think again as this place has a strict over21 door policy. With grown up conversation and grown up cocktails there is much to look forward to at this brand new bar. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE checks it out
W
alking through the hustle and bustle of Paceville late on a Friday night, I couldn’t help but notice the horde of people huddled outside what looked remarkably like a 1920’s barbershop. I made my way carefully through the crowd of cheerful patrons and was greeted at the door by Matthew D’Emanuele, James Stanton and George Adade, the three men behind the ingenious bar. Before I could even get a hello out, I was asked what my favourite drink was. Within minutes, head mixologist Beppe Volpe brought over a perfectly executed rosemary and hibiscus flower-infused gin. Intrigued and slightly buzzed with my drink in hand, I was itching to delve into the mind of one of the creators and learn the story behind The Thirsty Barber. Matthew walked me through the creative process as he outlined his initial research methods. He explained how Paceville had become, and maybe always had been a hub for 17-year-old kids, eager to down as many vodka Red Bull shots as humanly possible. Matthew and James’ eureka moment
42 www.gourmettoday.recipes
came about when he realised that he and his friends (who are just a tad older than 17) do everything in their power to avoid Paceville, especially on weekends. Pinning his friends’ reluctance down to the age profile of the majority of Paceville-goers and the types of drinks being offered, a clear image formed in their minds. Their mission was straightforward: they wanted to create a fun and inviting space, free from shot-downing teens and cheap vodka for over 21-year-olds to get together, kick back after a day of work and sip on a Peaky Blinder. Matthew clarifies that it is not a lack of decent bars in Paceville that led to the creation of The Thirsty Barber – he assures me that there are plenty of great bars in the area – rather the lack of a venue catering to the needs of the somewhat older crowd. Visiting the fruit of their labour just four months after they opened their doors and the Thirsty Barber is full to the brim and then some, with people often spilling out into the street, almost every weekend. Matthew claims that the secret to the bars’ success is simple: consistency. An example of this can be seen in the super
strict 21+ only policy, which ensures that at any given time, customers are surrounded by a slightly more mature crowd, just as promised. Matthew has always envisaged a cabaret, theatrical-themed bar. Inspired by the prohibition era, they strived to replicate the idea of the ‘speakeasies’, top-secret businesses that sold alcoholic beverages under false pretenses. In fact, the façade of the bar is designed to look exactly like a barber’s shop, complete with a 1920’s style barber’s chair and pole. They’ve done this so convincingly that Matthew attests that between two and three people per day enter The Thirsty Barber asking for a fresh cut. The theme is certainly not limited to the entrance, however, as it is integrated seamlessly into every aspect of the bar, ranging from the waitresses’ 1920-style flapper uniforms to the cocktail menus designed to look just like they did at the time. The overriding contrast between The Thirsty Barber and virtually any other bar or pub on the island is their team of qualified and experienced mixologists.
Peter, one of the few to make the cut, explained how bartenders are trained to make drinks that have been done a thousand times. Mixologists, on the other hand, are trained to think outside the box and find new and exciting ways to make masterful creations out of commonly found drinks. In the eyes of a mixologist, a Whiskey Sour is never just a Whiskey Sour but rather, a blank canvas; an opportunity to experiment with ingredients, fruits, herbs and other elements to create a drink that tells a story and let me tell you, we are listening. The Thirsty Barber team is not known to shy away from flavour and self-expression and their cocktail menu is indicative of that. It is comprised of everything you’ve ever dreamed of with a surprising twist at
every turn. I have just one piece of advice: tread carefully; because I guarantee you’re going to be tempted to order one of everything. If the first four months of business are anything to go by, The Thirsty Barber’s future is blindingly bright. Matthew and his partners are ecstatic with the public’s overwhelmingly positive reactions but they have a few more tricks up their sleeve. Within the next few months, they will be looking to install another bar and extend their bar staff to a total of eight mixologists to be able to deliver their divine white chocolate vodkas faster and with more ease. They also envisage branching out and serving gourmet food to go alongside their high-end cocktails as an attempt to replace
the inevitable 4am euro burger we are all guilty of ordering. If you’re over the age of 21 and looking for a novel and exciting experience, look no further than The Thirsty Barber. If you’re on the hunt for a cheap, watered down, run of the mill gin and tonic, keep walking.
The Thirsty Barber Ball Street, Paceville Tel: 79440909 thethirstybarber
KNOW YOUR WHISK(E)Y A bottle of whisky is an easy Christmas gift and with the increase in popularity of world brands, this could also make a thoughtful gift for a whisky lover. If only you could dechiper the labels! Gourmet Today has some tips to help you read those labels. WHISKY OR WHISKEY? You can’t pretend to be a whisky lover if you’re not even sure how to spell it! The answer is that both are correct if used in the right places. A simple rule of thumb states that if the country of origin of said whisky contains an “e” then so does the spelling of their whisky. Therefore you drink whiskey in America
and Ireland, but whisky in Scotland, Japan and Canada. PLACE Though whisky is made all over the world the big five in the whisky game are Ireland, Scotland, USA, Canada and Japan. Each country produces a whisky with distinct flavours. The Irish distil
their whiskey three times compared to their Scottish neighbours who only do it twice so you can expect Irish whiskies to be smoother while Scottish whiskies are fuller. AGE Whilst the general rule is that an older whisky has had time to develop flavours better and thus is a better whisky, the place in which it is made makes a difference as a result of climate conditions. Ageing for 18 years in Scotland will produce a complex and full whisky, however that same period in Kentucky may be too long and the whiskey may become tannic and too oak-y. SINGLE MALT VS. BLENDED SCOTCH Single malt simply means that the whisky is made entirely from malted barley whereas a blended Scotch is made from a blend of malted barley and unmalted grain. Neither one is technically better than the other and depends very much on personal preference.
PHOTO BY KRIS MICALLEF
SOUR MASH A whisky that uses sour mash simply uses some of the previous batch to make their whisky giving it an extra kick, much like sourdough does to bread.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 45
Raise a dram to excellence with Glen Grant’s
Award-winning 10 Year Old SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY
G
len Grant 10 Year Old epitomises Scottish excellence. A coveted favourite amongst many industry professionals, it comes as little surprise that the Glen Grant 10 Year Old single malt Scotch whisky has received numerous accolades, including the esteemed award for “Best Single Malt 10yrs and under (Multiple Casks)” by the Jim Murray Whisky Bible, for not one, but four years in a row and the guide’s top honour, the Single Malt of the Year 2016 (Multiple Casks). A rich golden liquid that encapsulates an added intensity of bouquet of sweet pear and vanilla, the Glen Grant 10 Year Old leaves a satisfyingly long and complex finish that is inimitable. Adopting a new, more distinct bottle shape with a clear label to certify its position in the luxury French whisky market, Glen Grant 10 Year Old also proudly features a new logo, the Grant Family monogram, featuring the delicately intertwined letters ‘J’, ‘R’ and ‘G’ to reflect James “The Major” Grant and his first wife Rose, as a nod to Glen Grant’s deeply rooted family heritage and the Major’s passion and craftsmanship. The sought-after blend is a result of Glen Grant’s unique double distillation process, introduced over a century ago by the ingenious James ‘The Major’ Grant and still in use to this day. As the ideal gift for whisky lovers or simply as a must-feature product for any drinks cabinet, the much-coveted Glen Grant 10 Year Old single malt Scotch whisky is not one to be overlooked or missed.
46 www.gourmettoday.recipes
“GLEN GRANT 10YR OLD WAS VOTED BEST SINGLE MALT 10YRS AND UNDER BY THE JIM MURRAY WHISKY BIBLE FOUR YEARS IN A ROW” Glen Grant whiskys are distributed by Red October. For more information contact 2147 0400 or visit www.redoctobermalta.com.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 47
PICKING GRAPES
Much like a person, every wine variety has its own characteristics. Here we profile one grape variety and even pick some of our favourites.
z a r i h S T
he Shiraz grape is the New World varietal grown of Syrah grown mostly in Australia, California and South Africa. Wine growers say that Shiraz is a varietal that likes a view because it grows best towards the top of this hills where there is less soil, making the wines produce less but more concentrated fruit. Shiraz wine coming from Australia will typically have a New World flavour profile, while reds labelled as Syrah wine (or with their French appellation, such as Hermitage, in the Northern Rhone) tend to reflect an Old World style. When different regions grow the same varietal, the resulting wines taste very different, with Australian versions tasting much sweeter and riper, more
TASTE PROFILE
The punch of flavour that greets the taster tapers off and then has a spicy, peppery note in the aftertaste. Expect notes of blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry as well as liquorice, with more subtle notes of pepper, clove, vanilla and mint.
48 www.gourmettoday.recipes
suggestive of chocolate than the pepper and spices often associated with Syrah in the Rhone. The Barossa Valley in Southern Australia is home to some of the best Shiraz wines in the world. The low plains from the city of Adelaide that lead into rolling hills are oddly reminiscent of the Central Valley of California. Since root louse that ravaged European vines never made it to the Barossa Valley, these are some of the oldest living vineyards. The shiraz grape has such thick skins that winemakers often cold soak the grapes before starting the wine making process to reduce some of the harsh tannins and herbaceous flavours. Fruitier than its Old World counterpart, this grape produces the darkest full-bodied red wines in the world.
FOOD PAIRING
The full-bodied taste of Shiraz pairs well with bold foods. Pair with soft and stinky cheeses. The fat textures and earthy flavours in the cheese will absorb the high tannin in Shiraz. The peppery spice also works very well with a peppery barbecue. Try spicing your meats with anise and cloves to bring out the subtle nuances in the wine.
ONE FOR THE CELLAR Though we love to quaff our wine, there are some that deserve to be treated better. This is one you should have in your cellars. PENFOLDS GRANGE Country of origin: Barossa Valley, Australia Grape varieties: Shiraz and cabernet sauvignon From the Barossa Valley in Australia, the Grange boasts an unbroken line of vintages from the experimental 1951 and demonstrates the synergy between shiraz and the soils and climate of south Australia. Though tasting notes change year on year you can expect a dense and imposing dark red that is exuberant, lifted and flamboyant with notes of red liquorice, gravy reduction and black olives.
Penfolds Grange is distributed by Charles Grech. www.charlesgrech.com
TOP SHIRAZ TWO OCEANS Country of Origin: South Africa Grape varieties: Shiraz Produced on the south east coast of South Africa, where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Indian Ocean, the Two Oceans’ range of wines are excellent ambassadors of South African wines at fantastic value for money. The Two Oceans shiraz is medium dark ruby red in colour with aromas of ripe, spicy, red cherry and vanilla. On the palate, it is dry, medium bodied and quite fruity with a sweet berry fruit core. The Two Oceans is distributed by Cleland and Souchet. www.clelandsouchet.com
LANGMEIL STEADFAST Country of origin: Barossa Valley, Australia Grape varieties: Shiraz and cabernet sauvignon The Linder family of Langmeil Winery operate in the Barossa Valley – one of Australia’s oldest wine making regions. Medium to deep crimson in colour with purple hues. A rich and alluring aroma of red and blue fruits jump out of the glass with herbaceous hints, black olive and roasty notes adding some savoury to the sweet. Ripe and juicy berries flow onto the palate which is medium bodied, with soft and velvety tannins adding a lovely structure and texture to the wine while sweet and briary spice balances the juicy fruit through to the finish. Langmeil Steadfast is distributed by Attard & Co. www.attardco.com
FRANÇOIS VILLARD L’APPEL DES SEREINES Country of Origin: Rhône Valley, France Grape varieties: Syrah The 2014 vintage of L’appel des Sereines is a wonderful 100% Syrah from Rhône Valley produced by François Villard. Selftaught, he is now one of the best producers in the northern Rhone. Purplish-red in colour, it has a powerful nose with dominant aromas of violets, spices and blackberries. Take pleasure in tasting this red showing a very fresh, supple tannins and a persistent finish. François Villard L’appel des Sereines is distributed by La Vini Culture. www.laviniculture.com
www.gourmettoday.recipes 49
50 www.gourmettoday.recipes
THE LEGEND OF THE BAROSSA VALLEY Peter Lehmann
T
he Barossa Zone in South Australia, is world renowned! It is by far, the most famous wine region in Australia, producing top-quality wines from vines that can be up to 150 years old, which will yield less fruit, but fruit of perfect phenolic and physiological ripeness. This region has a strong Germanic influence, due to 19th century immigrants, which is still evident today in some town and family names, and also in significant plantings of the Riesling grape variety in Eden Valley (part of the Barossa Zone). In the Barossa Valley however, Shiraz is the almighty ruler, and has built a strong reputation for producing big, concentrated, fruit forward wines, ranging from great value for money wines to world class reds worth tucking away in your cellar! Peter Lehmann is regarded as a legend in the Barossa and arguably the most famous man in the Australian wine industry. His story is one of loyalty bravery and commitment to independent
wine growers of the Barossa. The Peter Lehmann brand was actually established in order to “save� the growers, when the company that Peter worked for refused to purchase grapes from its contracted growers. Peter’s solution was to buy the grapes himself, with the original plan being to process the fruit and sell it off as bulk wine, but with an oversupply of bulk wine on the market at that time, they soon had to start bottling themselves, and so the Peter Lehmann brand was created! Till this day the winery relies greatly on 140 growers in the Barossa, who understand that they are not simply growing grapes but making wine, hence adhering to strict quality standards, which translates into the great Peter Lehmann wines that we know and love. Of its many different labels and varietals check out two of our must-try Peter Lehmann wines. Peter Lehmann wines are distributed by Red October. For more information contact 2147 0400 or visit www.redoctobermalta.com.
Layers Red, Barossa Valley 2014 The first time we tried this wine, its multi-layered character immediately answered any questions we had about its name. Made from four grape varieties, with 75% being Shiraz supported by three others, including Mourvedre, Tempranillo and Grenache, this wine offers the drinker a complex array of flavours and aromas, and at an incredible price!
8 songs Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2011 This has to be our pick of the lot for high-end Barossa Shiraz without breaking the bank. The fruit is sourced from very lowyielding, old vines. This wine will make you want to sneak away from everyone else in the room into a quiet corner to evaluate and enjoy what you are drinking. The wine is inky black upon appearance, has intense aromas of ripe blackberries, black plum, vanilla and subtle hints of chocolate and black pepper. Open one or two hours before and decant.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 51
TWO CHEFS AND A WINE MAKER PHOTOGRAPHY: JONAS KEMPTER
Every once in a while the culinary world experiences a partnership of which we should take note. One such occasion was a combination of efforts of two Sardinian chefs and a wine maker at L’Artista last month. SASHA SHUMARAYEVA meets the trio to find out what makes them so successful
O
ne sip of fresh vermentino and a bite of lightly but oh so perfectly grilled shrimp gently touched by a rich herby pesto and I quickly realize we are in for an absolutely divine taste of wine paired with typical Sardinian food. Hosted at the gorgeous L’Artista Restaurant in Bugibba, this immaculate wine-pairing event was a team effort by three kindred spirits – internationally renowned Sardinian chef Luigi Pomata, Sardinian chef patron Emanuele Orru’ from L’Artista Restaurant and Sardinian winemaker Fabio Pala of Pala Wines. Sitting down with each of them inside L’Artista Restaurant, I recognised, aside from the Sardinia connection, their core philosophies sang the same song – quality. Luigi Pomata is a third generation chef from a small island in Sardinia called Carloforte. He traveled around the world New York, London, Italy with the very best chefs to learn and improve his craft. When asked about his specialty, he said, “I am famous for tuna because in Carloforte we have [been] fishing [blue fin] tuna for 250 years by nets – the same methods, sustainable catching, just in May and June. Tuna for me is like meat and you can use red wine for the meat. With tuna, you drink red wine.” As an aside, this is the perfect moment to share the delights of Luigi Pomata’s tuna. The fire grilled spiced tuna belly coupled with a slightly charred mustardy eggplant and of course, naturally drizzled with Luigi’s signature red wine sauce made for 52 www.gourmettoday.recipes
a dish that brought out the most exquisite and rich flavours. My guest and I savoured each bite in silence. Indubitably, Pala’s Essentija, a Bovale sardo, with rustic yet smooth characteristics and a nice intensity, paired impeccably. He talks about how the only real style he follows when it come to food is the use of fresh, quality ingredients. “I don’t like to use a lot of ingredients. Because when you have the best food, you have to cook a little bit and you have to make a lot of food to mix. I like the real taste of quality food [...] You know, the food is our life. The people buy the bags for €1,000, the shoes €1,000, the dress €1,000, and the food - they don’t spend money. But you are your food. It’s the fuel for your body.” Like Luigi, for Fabio Pala of Pala Wines, winemaking is a family business in its third generation (with the fourth on its way). Organically grown wine, touched by the family with little addition of sulphites are core values in Pala’s vineyards. For Fabio and his family, each wine is a song and winemaking is their life. What is the greatest part about being a winemaker? I ask. “There is a word in our business. Terroir. It’s untranslatable. It’s French. That means everything. The term terroir means land, landscape, environment, family, heritage, culture. The wine is made all in this way. Meaning your grandfather was making wines, when you’re born you were playing in a vineyard, when you go out you’re talking about wines with your friends and
you’re enjoying it not only technically.” Chef Patron of L’Artista Restaurant, Emanuele Orru’ and his wife Lisa, cooked alongside Luigi Pomata to create the beautiful menu for the night. Emanuele, akin to Luigi, believes in quality, fresh produce – sticking to clean, simple flavours. At the end of the night, I could only wonder how they did it. Something that Luigi said came back to me. “I use my imagination. I use imagination because when you study a lot about food, you can make the mix, but you have to know which mix to use in which situation. I use a lot of lemon zest and orange zest because I like the acidity and the sweetness. You have to put some passion into the dish. Without passion the dish just isn’t very good.” Pala Wines are imported and distributed by NM Arrigo Ltd. For more information contact 2122 3755.
TABLE-HOPPING
L’Artista
NM Arrigo
Mosta Road, St Paul’s Bay. Tel: 9995 4947
Triq L-Intornjatur, Birkirkara Tel: 21225039
artistamalta
nmarrigo
54 www.gourmettoday.recipes
GOURMET TV
CHRISTMAS COCKTAILS
When having friends over for Christmas drinks you want everyone to get into the festive spirit. There is no better way to do this than with Christmas cocktails. Eggnog is a big thing in the US but doesn’t really get the attention it deserves. And while we often make a glass of mulled wine we rarely use the same spices for anything else. Michael Diacono makes uses apple cider for a twist on a classic.
ROASTED APPLE AND RUM CIDER PUNCH Ingredients • 3 apples • 3.7 litres dry cider • 6 cloves • 6 allspice berries • 2 tsp nutmeg • 175g lemon juice • 175g orange juice • 175g soft brown sugar • 1 cup rum (optional) Method 1. Cut the apples into wedges, sprinkle with sugar and roast in the oven at 200C for 10 mins until soft. 2. Add the juices, sugar and spices to a saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer. 3. Simmer for a few mins until the sugar has completely dissolved. 4. Add the apple cider and heat until just simmering. 5. Take off the heat and add the rum if using. This recipe will appear on Gourmet Today TV, on TVM on 24 December, 2016.
EGGNOG Ingredients • 700ml milk • 240ml cream • 3 cinnamon sticks • 1 tsp nutmeg • 5 eggs, separated • 130g sugar • 175ml rum Method 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the egg yolks until they lighten in colour. 2. Gradually add the sugar and continue to beat until it is
3. 4.
5.
completely dissolved. Add the milk, cream, rum and nutmeg and stir to combine. Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer and beat to soft peaks. With the mixer still running gradually add 1 tbsp of sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Whisk the egg whites into the mixture. Chill and serve.
This recipe will appear on Gourmet Today TV, on TVM on 24 December, 2016.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 55
Sistina Wine & Co. 188, The Strand, Gzira, GZR 1210
TEL: +0356 2131 4161
@sistinawineco
AVOIDING A WASTEFUL CHRISTMAS We’re coming up to the end of the year and we all know what that means: accepting invitations to an endless series of festive meals and, despite our big appetites, watching a shameful amount of food go to waste. Anyone can cook for an army but it takes a real pro to know exactly how much to prepare for their dinner guests and how to use any leftovers. Gourmet Today resident chef Michael Diacono is just such an expert and will be talking us through ways you can help prevent food waste, while reducing your spending as well!
F
ood waste is a big problem in the western world and, uniquely, it is one that regular people can all help to solve. Following some of Michael’s advice will reduce waste this Christmas without leaving you or your guests hungry. HAVE A PLAN The answer to reducing waste really starts with your shopping list. Do you know you have enough flour for those mince pies or are you just guessing? Taking stock of what you already have at home on a regular basis will prevent those supermarket moments when you buy an extra packet of something, just not to be caught without. This will also help you keep your spending in check. Another thing you can do before you even set foot in the supermarket is plan your meals. This can be on a weekly basis, if you do small, regular shops, or can be over longer periods like a month at a time if you like to prep and freeze 58 www.gourmettoday.recipes
your meals beforehand. When it comes to the festive season, figure out how many guests you need to feed and how much they are likely to eat. Decide what you are going to cook and stock up on recurring ingredients that will make it into several meals. If you are prepping in advance, you can easily estimate how much of one ingredient you need and multiply it by how many portions you will be making. Of course, plans don’t always work – a surprise dinner date or late evening at the office will throw your meal schedule off a little bit. So allow for a little flexibility here and there. SEPARATE THAT HUGE GROCERY
SHOP INTO PORTIONS Portioning your food is a good idea, whether or not you are cooking in bulk. This is especially true for meat – it’s easy to throw the six chicken breasts you just bought in the freezer as they are, but they’ll be impossible to defrost separately when you need them. Ask your butcher to separate portion-sized amounts into individual bags or do it yourself when you get home. Being able to make the right sized portion means none of it goes to waste. When thinking about Christmas lunch, it helps to calculate an average portion per person – say, 6 roast potatoes, a handful of sprouts and so on – so you can buy just as much as you need without going overboard.
“WHEN THINKING ABOUT CHRISTMAS LUNCH, IT HELPS TO CALCULATE AN AVERAGE PORTION PER PERSON”
LEARN TO STORE FOOD PROPERLY
TABLE-HOPPING Food going off is another reason so much of it ends up in the bin. This problem can be solved, at least in part, by planning and shopping more carefully. Does your two-person household end up throwing out half of a large loaf? Try a smaller version instead. Another way to extend the life of your food is to store it correctly. Check on the package to see if it belongs in the fridge or the pantry. Open packets should be stored in re-sealable bags or sealed off with bag clips. Some perishables, like carrots, last longer in plastic bags (which you can recycle), while others prefer paper bags – learn which is which so you can store your veggies to keep them at their best. BEST BEFORE? WHEN DOES FOOD REALLY GO BAD? Packaging can tell us plenty about the foods within and you can easily learn the difference between the most commonly used terms. Think of the term ‘Use by’ as a safety warning rather than a quality tip – this means that a food or drink will not be safe if consumed after said date and it is probably a bad idea to eat it. ‘Best before’ is a bit more flexible. Foods slightly past their best before dates will not be as fresh but they are still safe to eat. Some foods show a ‘Display by’ or ‘Sell by’ date. These mostly concern supermarket employees responsible for keeping the freshest products on the shelves so you do not need to look at them yourself. When it comes to shopping for large events like Christmas or New Year’s lunch, it is important to consider that you will have plenty on at the time, so it might be wise to stagger your shopping as needed. Store your ingredients correctly and you won’t need to worry about a chaotic, last-minute trip to a bustling supermarket. It is also a good idea to pre-book your turkey with the
Know how many people you are cooking for and plan you meal accordingly. If you don’t have enough people coming over for Christmas lunch to eat a whole turkey, try roasting a duck instead.
Products past their ‘sell by’ date are not unfit for consumption but are usually a guide for supermarket staff. Unless the date on the packet says ‘use by’ exercise a little bit of caution before deciding whether an item is still good.
butcher, as he’ll be particularly busy this time of year. BECOME A LEFTOVER PRO So you’ve bought your ingredients,
Plan your grocery shopping so that you do not end up buying more than you need. This will save you money as well as avoiding waste.
prepared your meal, fed your guests to bursting... and there is still some leftover. This is where a little inspiration comes in. There are thousands of quality food blogs and recipe collections online, as well as trusty ink-and-paper recipe books that can help you make the most of your leftovers. And it’s not all turkey sandwiches either – you’ll find a variety of options for all kinds of leftovers, so none of it ends up in the bin. Do your bit! Visit www.dontwastewaste.gov.mt.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 59
Exclusive Importers & Distributors; CKV Marketing, Hard Rocks Business Park l/o Naxxar. Trade enquiries; Tel 21445023 Fax 21489352 email info@ckvmarketing.com
Exclusive Importers & Distributors; CKV Marketing, Hard Rocks Business Park l/o Naxxar. Trade enquiries; Tel 21445023 Fax 21489352 email info@ckvmarketing.com www.gourmettoday.recipes 61
+356 2137 4894 fb.stjulians@islandhotels.com
Treat yourself this Christmas!
ENJOY AN UNFORGETTABLE CELEBRATION AT LE BISTRO AT THE RADISSON BLU RESORT, ST JULIANS
TIS THE SEASON FOR THE BIG BIRD
Christmas is the season for turkey and though (almost) everyone wants roast turkey for Christmas lunch, there are plenty of other turkey recipes worth your while this Christmas. Ramon Muscat of the Radisson Blu Resort, St Julian’s prepares some easy turkey recipes that can be rustled up for festive meals or even made with turkey leftovers after the big day.
PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPH SCICLUNA
Turkey and fig stew Ingredients • 3 tbsp olive oil • 200ml fresh cream • Handful parsley, finely chopped • 400g turkey breast, sliced • 1 onion, finely chopped • 100ml chicken stock • 2 tsp table salt • 1 carrots, chopped • 1 turnips, chopped • 1 potato, chopped • 1 tsp fresh thyme
• 10g crushed peppercorns • 100g fresh figs Method 1. Season the turkey slices with salt and gently fry the turkey slices on both sides until browned (approx. 2 – 3 mins). Remove from the pan and set aside. 2. In the same pan add the onions, figs and celery. Cook for about 5 mins, until the onions are
3. 4. 5.
6.
translucent. Return the turkey to the pot, add half of the stock and bring to simmer. Leave to cook slowly for approximately 1 hr. Once done add the rest of the chicken stock, bring to a simmer and cook until all the vegetables are tender, add the cream and reduce by half. Season with salt and pepper.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 63
64 www.gourmettoday.recipes
Curried turkey and barley minestrone Ingredients • 100g pearl barley • 2 litres chicken stock • 3 zucchini, diced • 2 tsp curry powder • 300g turkey, minced • 3 onions, diced • 2 sticks celery diced • 3 carrots diced • Handful chopped parsley • 1 cauliflower, chopped • 2 tsp table salt • 2 tsp crushed peppercorns
• • • •
2 tbsp olive oil 100g pumpkin, diced 2 tbsp tomato paste 3 potatoes, diced
Method 1. Fry the turkey mince in a hot pan and stir until the turkey starts to brown. 2. Add all the vegetables and the curry and stir well. 3. Add the tomato paste and the chicken stock and bring to the boil. 4. Add the pearl barley and simmer for 1 hr. 5. Season and serve.
Turkey and pumpkin pie Ingredients Chocolate mousse • 400ml chicken stock • 400g pumpkin, cubed • 1 egg, beaten • 2 tsp table salt • 500g short crust pastry • 100g rice, cooked • 2 onions, finely chopped • 1 tbsp chives, chopped • 400g turkey breast, sliced • 1 spring onion, sliced • 1 tbsp crushed peppercorns • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp sesame seeds
Method 1. Pan fry the turkey until golden brown. 2. Add the onions, spring onions, garlic and herbs and fry until the onions are translucent. 3. Add the pre-boiled rice and stir. 4. Add the chicken stock and once the liquid is absorbed season to taste. Set aside to cool. 5. Roll the short crust pastry and line the mould. 6. Add the mixture to the mould and place the pastry on top. 7. Brush the lid with beaten eggs and sprinkle the sesame seeds on top. 8. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 180°C for 20 mins until golden brown.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 65
Turkey and mushroom cannelloni Ingredients • 100ml fresh cream • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 onions, finely chopped • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped • 600g turkey, mince • 200g mushrooms, sliced • 400g ricotta • 100g mozzarella, shredded • Handful parsley, finely chopped • 500g dry cannelloni pasta • 500g basic tomato sauce • 200ml chicken stock • 2 tsp table salt • 2 tsp crushed peppercorns Method 1. Fry the turkey mince until starting to brown. 2. Add the onions, garlic, mushrooms and herbs and keep stirring. 3. Add the chicken stock and stir again. 4. Once all the liquid is absorbed, season with salt and 66 www.gourmettoday.recipes
5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
pepper and set aside to cool. When cold, fill the cannelloni with the turkey mix. Place some fresh cream at the bottom of a baking dish and top with the filled cannelloni. Top with the mozzarella and ricotta. Pour the tomato sauce on the cheese and finish with the remaining cream. Cook in the oven at 180°C for 30 mins till the pasta is cooked through.
Radisson Blu Resort, Malta St. Julian’s, St. George’s Bay, St Julian’s, Malta STJ 3391 Tel: 2137 4894 Email: info.stjulians@radissonblu.com Web /www.radissonblu.com/en/stjuliansresort-malta radissonblu
beyond the water Exclusively focusing on brass ware, kitchen mixers and accessories. Psaila Street, Santa Venera +356 2147 2241 www.bridgepoint.com.mt
68 www.gourmettoday.recipes
PHOTOGRAPH
Y: GULJA HOLL
AND
HOMECOOKS
HOMECOOKS
A Christmas meal doesn’t have to be an all-out affair. The turkey, the plum pudding‌ all those involve a lot of work and can also get expensive. Our homecooks put together a family meal that avoids all of the usual Christmas dishes but still feels festive nonetheless. Pascal Holland starts off the meal with salmon rillettes, Gaby makes a main of stuffed quail and Nick Formosa makes a sticky toffee pudding with prunes instead of dates to give it a more Christmas pudding feel. If you really must have turkey for Christmas lunch, this makes a great meal to have at any other time during the festive season.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 69
CASTILLO DE MOLINA SAUVIGNON BLANC VINA SAN PEDRO Greenish yellow, almost transparent in colour, this sauvignon blanc has an intense, fruity nose. Enhanced fruit notes, including passion fruit, grapefruit, and citrus fruits. Also present are notes of white peach and subtle notes of asparagus. The palate is fresh, fruity, with good body, rich acidity, well-balanced, and a prolonged finish.
HOMECOOKS
SALMON RILLETTES Ingredients • 250g wild boneless salmon • 175g unsalted butter • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 ½ tbsp lemon juice • 2 tbsp chopped chives • 125g smoked salmon • 1 tsp crushed pink peppercorns • Handful dill • Lemon zest Method 1. Remove skin from salmon fillets and season both sides lightly with salt, cover in tin foil and place in oven for 8-10 mins at 230°C. Once done, remove and allow to cool. 2. In a bowl mash together 75g butter and olive oil until smooth. 3. Take smoked salmon and slice into strips and again in 2cm pieces. 4. Place into bowl along with chives, lemon juice and, chopped chives and peppercorns. 5. Take cooked salmon and flake the cooked salmon over the mixture then fold into rillette mixture. 6. Finely chop the dill and stir well. 7. Take the remaining 100g of butter and place in saucepan over low heat. 8. Melt gently and skim off froth from the surface. You
will see a clear yellow layer (clarified butter) above a milky layer. Carefully pour the clear layer into a separate bowl and discard the rest. 9. Place rillette mixture into containers and pour over clarified butter. 10. Place into fridge to set.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 71
1865 - CARMENERE VINA SAN PEDRO Deep and intense violet red in colour, this carmenere is fruity and complex, where fruit and wood are perfectly integrated. It presents notes of blackberries, plums and black cherries, black pepper, vanilla, chocolate and tobacco. It has good volume in the mouth, oily, with good presence of ripe tannins that contribute with smoothness and roundness. 72 www.gourmettoday.recipes
HOMECOOKS FESTIVE STUFFED QUAIL PARCELS Serves 6 Ingredients Quail • 6 boneless quail • 1 packet filo pastry • 6 slices Parma ham • 2 small shallots, finely chopped • 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs • 1 cup cooked chestnuts, chopped • ½ cup prunes, chopped • 1 tsp cinnamon • 2 tsp grated ginger • Salt and pepper • 2 tbsp olive oil • 50g butter Artichoke and Pumpkin Mash • 500g pumpkin • 500g Jerusalem artichokes • 2 cloves garlic • ½ tsp allspice • Generous knob of butter Cranberry and port sauce • ½ cup port • ½ cup chicken stock • Knob of butter • ½ cup fresh cranberries • 1 tbsp honey Method 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2. Gently fry the shallots in a little olive oil until softened taking care not to brown them. 3. Transfer to a mixing bowl and stir in the breadcrumbs, chestnuts, prunes, cinnamon and ginger. Give all a good stir and season well. 4. Lay the quail skin-side down on a baking sheet and season lightly place 1 tbsp of the stuffing into the cavity of each quail. 5. Wrap a slice of Parma ham around each quail, tuck the thighs and secure with tooth picks. 6. In a large frying pan, brown the quails on both sides for around 5 mins on each side. Set aside to cool. 7. Take a sheet of filo pastry and cut in half vertically so that you are left with a sheet roughly 22cms x 44cms. 8. Brush half the sheet with melted butter and fold to a square 22cms x 22cms. 9. Place quail in centre and bring up all 4 corners of pastry to the centre to form a parcel and press lightly at the centre. Brush all over with more melted butter.
10. Repeat with the rest of the quails. 11. Patch up any tears with scraps of filo pastry if necessary. Bake the parcels until the pastry is golden, approx. 20 mins. Remove from the oven and serve over a portion of pumpkin and artichoke mash and a drizzle of port and cranberry sauce. 12. To make the artichoke and pumpkin mash, clean the artichokes and chop roughly. 13. Peel pumpkin and roughly chop. 14. Place in a steamer together with two cloves of garlic and steam until vegetable are tender. 15. Drain and mash the vegetables, add butter and seasoning and mash until smooth. 16. To make the cranberry and port sauce, add the port and chicken stock to the pan that was used to fry the quail and deglaze. Bring to a boil and then simmer for a couple of mins. 17. Stir in the butter, honey and the cranberries and simmer until the just cranberries pop. Season if needed. 18. Serve the quail parcels with the mash and cranberry sauce.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 73
PRUNE STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING Ingredients • 6 tbsp unsalted butter • 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour • 1 ¼ prunes, pitted and finely chopped • ¼ cup dried ginger • 1 cup hot strong coffee • 1 tsp baking soda • 1 tsp baking powder • ½ tsp salt • ¾ cup dark-brown sugar • 2 large eggs, CARAMEL SAUCE • 1 stick unsalted butter • 1 cup lightly packed dark-brown sugar • ¾ cup heavy cream Method 1. Preheat the over to 220°C. 2. Mix together prunes, coffee, baking soda and let set. 3. Add the butter and dark sugar into a mixer and mix slowly, gradually adding the eggs. 4. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl and slowly add half of this mixture to the butter, sugar and egg. 5. Next add the prune mixture and the rest of the flour mixture and combine slowly. Make sure not to over mix. 6. Butter a baking tin and add the cake mix into it. 7. Bake at 200°C until puffy about 25-35 mins. 8. While the cake is baking, combine butter, dark sugar and cream into a pot and stir on a low flame. 9. Keep on stirring until the mixture turns into toffee. 10. Once cooked, bring the cake out of the oven, pierce holes into the cake and pour half the toffee into the cake tin. Let it rest for about 15 mins. 11. Serve warm. 74 www.gourmettoday.recipes
Definitive(ly) Good Guide
CHEF OF THE MONTH ber
m e v o N
How did you start your career as a chef? It all started in my early teens, when I was looking for a summer job in order to be more independent and to gain my first work experience. As soon as I entered the kitchen and noticed the high level of passion, creativity and attention to detail, I was really amazed. From that moment, I said to myself that was what I really wanted to do and I would do anything that was needed to build strong roots in that sector. Which celebrity chef has most inspired you in the kitchen? I am inspired by multiple chefs that have solid restaurant organisation and that focus on sustainability, including providing good culinary education to the community. If I have to choose one, I will go for Massimo Bottura. He really inspires me as he delivers cultural simplicity to the highest possible standard. Who is the most famous person you have ever cooked for? Bruce Willis. What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten in outside of Malta? I had a wonderful experience at a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, De Leest, which is located in Vaassen
What advice would you give to someone considering a career as a chef? To become a chef, a lot of steps have to be taken and stages successfully reached without missing a single one. Therefore, my advice is to: • Choose your workplace wisely and don’t worry about what you are getting paid; you have to remember that at the beginning of your career it is all about learning. • Learn the basics and do not believe that you know better than anyone else. • Always stay focused on your tasks. • Last but not least, remember that your work ethic and attitude is everything.
TREVOR PORTELLI TRATTORIA SAN LAWRENZ in Holland, with head Chef Jacob Jan Boerma. After food, what is your greatest passion? After food, my greatest passion is bodybuilding, and I must say that this helped me a lot in my line of work in regards to discipline, commitment and consistency.
Win a meal for two at Trattoria San Lawrenz with the Definitive(ly) Good Guide and Gourmet Today. Like the Gourmet Today Facebook page and let us know why you would like to eat at these restaurants. Competition ends 31 December, 2016.
Trattoria San Lawrenz Triq ir-Rokon San Lawrenz Tel: 2211 0000
WIN a meal for tw o
The winner will be randomly selected.Terms and conditions apply.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 75
Definitive(ly) Good Guide
CHEF OF THE MONTHber
m e c e D
How did you start your career as a chef? As with many chefs, it all started as a kid helping my mum in the kitchen at home where I discovered my passion and started dreaming of becoming a chef one day. After finishing secondary school in 1999 I decided to go to ITS to start my career in the catering sector. This was my first step into this industry. Which celebrity chef has most inspired you in the kitchen? The celebrity chef that always inspired me is Marco Pierre White because of his perfection, determination and professionalism at work. Who is the most famous person you have ever cooked for? I have cooked for lots of famous people including Brad Pitt, Jennifer Aniston, Zucchero, Angelina Jolie and Vasco Rossi. Which is the best restaurant you have ever eaten in outside of Malta? The best restaurant outside Malta I have eaten at is Da Vittorio Ristorante, a fish restaurant on the beach in Porto Palo di Menfi, a restaurant with no menu but a vast variety of fish and shellfish at its best.
THE CHEF OF THE YEAR The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants will announce the Chef of the Year on 5 December during the Restaurants Awards Ceremony at the Grand Hotel Excelsior together with other Restaurant Awards. The Chef of the Month Competition will be back in 2017! Keep in touch on www.restaurantsmalta.com
restaurantsmalta.com
Karl Enriquez – Sciacca Grill After food, what is your greatest passion? When I do manage to find some time for myself I love going to the gym and to play waterpolo. Also in my spare time I involve myself in network marketing. Sciacca Grill South Street, Valletta Tel: 2123 7222 Facebook: Sciacca-Grill
What advice would you give to someone considering a career as a chef? My advice to newbies is simple, if you are ready to serve your family and friends while they are enjoying some time together and you are determined to do it, then go for it, as it is a job that gives a great deal of satisfaction.
Win a meal for two at Sciacca Grill with the DeďŹ nitive(ly) Good Guide and Gourmet Today. Like the Gourmet Today Facebook page and let us know why you would like to eat at these restaurants. Competition ends 31 December, 2016.
WIN a meal for tw o
The winner will be randomly selected.Terms and conditions apply.
76 www.gourmettoday.recipes
MELLIEĦA OPENING HOURS
24TH DECEMBER 7AM - 7PM
MON - FRI 7:30AM - 8PM
26TH DECEMBER 9AM - 6PM
SATURDAYS 7AM - 8PM
31ST DECEMBER 7AM - 6PM
SUNDAYS 8AM - 5PM
1ST JANUARY CLOSED
8TH & 13TH DEC 7:30AM - 8PM
2ND JANUARY 8AM - 7PM
NAXXAR OPENING HOURS
24TH DECEMBER 8AM - 7PM
MON - THU 8AM - 8PM
26TH DECEMBER 9:30AM - 8PM
FRIDAYS 8AM - 9PM
31ST DECEMBER 8AM - 6PM
SATURDAYS 8AM - 8PM
1ST JANUARY CLOSED
SUNDAYS 9AM - 6PM
2ND JANUARY 10AM - 8PM
25TH DECEMBER CLOSED
25TH DECEMBER CLOSED
8TH & 13TH DECEMBER 8AM - 9PM
/ValyouSupermarkets
The MTA Chairman Dr. Gavin Gulia and the CEO Mr. Paul Bugeja presenting one of the seven awards.
ASSURING QUALITY FOR MALTESE RESTAURANTS
T
he Malta Tourism Authority (MTA) is constantly working towards improving the local product offer for tourists and locals alike. In a bid to promote quality, the MTA launched the Quality Assured (QA) seal for restaurants in 2014. The aim of the seal is to encourage best practice and recognise those establishments that consistently deliver a quality product. The QA seal is a voluntary scheme through which restaurants are assessed and can achieve this prestigious status. Following two calls for application there are now over 100 restaurants on the QA list. The QA seal is based on a system of points which takes into consideration the budget category of the restaurant, thus allowing all classes of restaurants the opportunity to apply. For a restaurant to achieve the QA seal it has to undergo a mystery guest visit where the restaurant is assessed on a number of criteria covering service, hospitality, food and product offer (including ambience and physical state of venue). The report is 78 www.gourmettoday.recipes
then sent to the restaurant and during the announced visit, the assessor discusses the findings with the manager. The mystery guests have been specifically trained for this purpose and the MTA worked closely with VisitScotland both during the design phase and for the training of the assessors. This is to ensure a high standard of quality for the seal. The quality assured seal is also designed with the local product in mind and in the second call, a new criterion was included to promote wines from grapes grown in Malta. Furthermore, a new criterion related to staff having knowledge of first aid was introduced and the MTA has been organising free courses for restuarant staff. During the second awarding ceremony which took place in May, seven awards were presented, six of which were based on the results of the mystery guest visits organised by the MTA throughout the year, whilst the other award, sponsored by Review Pro, was for best customer
feedback based on over 13,500 customer reviews, covering all Quality Assured restaurants. The awards went to the following: Best in Class Award 1. De Mondion 2. Brookies 3. Diar il Bniet Best Service and Hospitality Award 1. Medina Restaurant 2. Commando Restaurant 3. Diar il Bniet Customer Feedback Award (sponsored by Review Pro) 1. Lovage Bistro To view the quality assured restaurants and for more info visit www.qualityassuredmalta.com. A printed annual guide with all the Quality Assured businesses is available at any of the 11 tourist information offices across the Maltese Islands.
ST. JULIAN’S Barracuda Blue Elephant Caviar & Bull Café Cuba Da Marina Dolce Vita Fra Martino MARSALFORN Pulena Il-Kartell L’Oro Da Napoli Qbajjar Restaurant Ristorante il Gambero
VICTORIA Brookies
gozo
XLENDI Da Manuel Il-Kċina Għawdxija St Patrick’s Hotel Stone Crab Zafiro Ta’ Karolina The Boathouse
SANNAT Ta’ Ċenċ Kantra Lido
MELLIEĦA Agliolio Commando
Gululu Kċina Maltija Henry J Beans Hugo’s Lounge Il Ponte Le Bistro Lulu Marina Terrace
Tradizione Italiana
San Giuliano Scirocco Scruples Suruchi
Pizzeria & Brasserie
XAGĦRA Cornucopia Hotel DVenue Oleander Ta’ Frenċ
ST. PAUL’S BAY Batubulan Café Delos Gate of India Tarragon
QALA D Bar & Restaurant
BUĠIBBA Lovage Bistro Venus
MĠARR Country Terrace Il Migiarro Porto Vecchio Tmun Mgarr
Paranga Quadro Sale e Pepe
Sushi Bar & Teppanyaki
SLIEMA Café Cuba Fratelli la Bufala La Cucina Del Sole Medasia Sa Re Ga Ma Ta’Kolina TexMex American Bar & Grill
Ta’Kolina The Chophouse
QAWRA Benjawan Thai Cuisine Oracle Casino Bistro Peking Tagine
PIETA’ Fumia
Flavours Il-Mitħna
The Avenue The Villa Waterbiscuit Zeri’s Zen Japanese
GŻIRA Ali Baba
VALLETTA Aaron’s Kitchen Michael’s Giannini Rampila La Mère Scoglitti Malata
VALLETTA WATERFRONT Nan Yuan
Cantonese Restaurant
Pintonino
MĠARR Tal-Majjistra Eat House
malta
FLORIANA Admiral’s Landing Haywharf
MOSTA Ta’ Marija
MDINA Bacchus De Mondion Medina Trattoria AD 1530
RABAT Il-Veduta San Andrea
DINGLI Diar il-Bniet
GĦAR LAPSI L/O SIĠĠIEWI Blue Creek
SIĠĠIEWI Chateaux Buskett
LUQA AIRPORT Vecchia Napoli (SKYPARKS)
SMART CITY Bistro Ten-O-One Wejla
quality restaurants
certified by the Malta Tourism Authority
www.qualityassuredmalta.com
BIRŻEBBUĠIA Ferretti MARSAXLOKK Il-Bukkett La Capanna
Southport T’Anna Mari
Ta’ Victor Tartarun
DECEMBER 2016
RECIPE INDEX STARTERS Pumpkin and chestnut soup
29
Turkey and mushroom cannelloni
68
Salmon rillettes
71
MAINS Stuffed goose
32
Fig and turkey stew
65
Curried turkey minestrone
67
Turkey and pumpkin pie
67
Stuffed quail parcels
73
SIDES Giblet gravy
32
Bread dumplings
33
Braised red cabbage
33
DESSERTS Stollen
35
Marzipan apples
35
Sticky toffee prune pudding
74
DRINKS Mulled wine
36
Rum and cider punch
55
Eggnog
55
EASY PARKING
Floriana Hamrun Ta’ Qali
PARK AT... facebook.com/mcpcarparks
www.mcpcarparks.com.mt
CAR PARKS