Gourmet Today issue 17

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Today ISSUE NUMBER 17 • august 2012

€2.00 where sold

Keep the kids entertained in the kitchen A colourful meal with Susan Waitt Marilù Vella makes gourmet pastizzi OVER

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Editor’s note This summer’s been a scorcher and after so many days of incessant heat the last thing anyone wants to do is spend hours over a hot stove making elaborate dishes to impress friends. But a man’s gotta eat and we still enjoy entertaining friends by the pool, on the boat or under the shade of a tree in the garden. The trick to entertaining through the hot season is to make quick meals with minimal use of heat in the kitchen. Our homecooks prepare a completely raw meal that tantalise the taste buds – a cold, refreshing, garlicky almond soup, marinated tuna and a chocolatey amaretto mousse, without having to turn on the stove, oven, barbeque or anything else that can increase the temperature in the kitchen. The long summer holidays are great fun at the end of the scholastic year but tend to become more challenging as the days drag on and the kids become harder and harder to entertain. Getting them into the kitchen will not only give them something useful to do but will also increase their interest in home-made food steering them away from the clutches of junk food. Get a dose of Maltese love with Marilù’s gourmet pastizzi without the guilt trip – or the heartburn – that always follows such indulgence. Low-fat pastizzi with some interesting fillings are sure to add a little bit of flavour to your summer parties. We hope that you enjoy this issue of GOURMET Today and look forward to receiving your comments or suggestions.

HOME COOKS

Bon appétit!

Homecooks make a raw meal 11 Marilù Vella makes Maltese pastizzi – gourmet style 18 Discover liquid gold – Marsala wine 23 A colourful garden supper 34 Wine travellers get the low down on grappa 37 Make the most of the sweetness of tiny figs 41 Get in the kitchen with the little ones

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Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan • Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar email: gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt Design: Kevin Grech • Photography: Ray Attard • Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia Contact for advertising: Chris Sacco – 21382741 ext: 121 Cover: Sam Pace • Cover photo by Ray Attard

Published by: Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann • SGN 9016 Malta Printed at: Print It Printing Services Tel: +356 382741 • Fax: +356 21381992 www.maltatoday.com.mt

Entertaining in summer is a hot affair. Keep it simple and even better keep it cold during the hot summer days and nights still to come. After a trip to Spain, Gaby Holland comes back inspired and prepares a refreshing cold almond soup. Janet Grech marinates some raw tuna served with pickled cactus leaves and Sandra Dimech ends off a perfect meal with a cool chocolate amaretto mousse.

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photography by ray attard

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Ricotta and fig bruscetta Ingredients Serves 4 • • • •

200g ricotta 8 walnuts chopped 8 basil leaves 2 fresh figs washed and thinly sliced with peel (if unavailable used thin slices of dried fig)

• Salt • Paprika • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil • 8 slices rustic baguette

Method

1. In a small bowl mash the ricotta and add the chopped walnuts and 4 of the basil leaves. Season well. 2. Toast the bread and before serving drizzle some olive oil, pile on the ricotta spread and a few slices of fig and a basil leaf. 3. Drizzle some more oil and a sprinkling of paprika.

Ajo blanco Ingredients Serves 4

• 200g almonds, blanched and peeled • 3-4 slices stale baguette or white bread • 3 cloves garlic • 4 cups cold water • 5 tbsp extra virgin Spanish olive oil

• 3-4 tbsp Spanish sherry vinegar or cider vinegar • salt to taste • 8 seedless green grapes thinly sliced • 2 slices Jamon Iberico or Parma ham grilled until crisp

Method

1. Blanch and peel almonds. Dry thoroughly with a paper towel and set aside. 2. Peel garlic. 3. Trim crust from bread slices if using French-style or rustic bread. Place bread in 1-2 cups cold water to soak. 4. While bread is soaking, place garlic and almonds into a food processor or blender. Blend on pulse until smooth. 5. Remove bread from water and squeeze out excess water. 6. Tear bread into quarters and add bread and 1 tsp salt to processor or blender. Blend on pulse. 7. While blending, slowly drizzle olive oil, then vinegar, and finally the water into blender or processor. 8. Taste. Adjust salt, vinegar and oil to taste. 9. Strain through a sieve into a container or bowl. Press as much liquid as possible through the sieve. 10. Seal and chill at least 2-3 hours or overnight. 11. Serve in chilled bowls. 12. Garnish with some of the sliced grapes, crumbled Jamon Iberico and a drizzle with olive oil. If you do not have time to blanch and peel the almonds, use a package of ready peeled raw almonds.

Suggested wine: Guigal Cotes du Rhone

Fresh, aromatic scents of peach, yellow plum and lemon curd, lifted by a spicy overtone. Dry and precise, with sappy pit and citrus fruit flavours that put on weight with air. Closes with good energy and clarity, leaving spice and lemon notes behind. This is quite suave for the category and would be a great pairing for lighter seafood dishes.

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Marinated tunaOKS with pickled cactus pads, greens and fig salad

Ingredients • 400g thinly sliced fresh tuna Marinade • 4 tbsp Grenadine (or pomegranate molasses) • 4 tbsp sesame oil • 2 to 3 tbsp lemon juice • 1 tbsp crushed green peppers Salad • Mixed salad leaves • 4 ripe figs, well washed or peeled and quartered • 3 tbsp sesame oil • 1 tbsp lemon juice

Pickled cactus salad • 4 new light green pads • 1 red chilli pepper, finely chopped – remove the seeds and membrane for a milder flavour • 1 small onion, finely chopped • 1 small tomato, finely chopped • 375ml (1½ cups) white vinegar • 2 tbsp sugar

Method 1. Slice the tuna as finely as possible. 2. Pour the marinade over the tuna making sure all the slices are absorbing the marinade, cover with cling film and place in the fridge for about 1 hour before serving. For the pickled cactus 3. Using a knife, or vegetable peeler, peel off the skin on either side and cut in

strips – be careful of spiny prickles. 4. Boil them for 5 mins, drain and rinse. 5. Add the cactus fingers to a jar with the chopped onion, tomato and chilli and set aside. 6. Boil the vinegar and sugar and pour over the cactus mixture and close the jar turning it upside down for approx 5 mins before refrigerating it.

It may be served chilled and used straight away but its best made a day or more in advance. This pickle can be served with salads, tuna, beef, pork etc. 7. Place the salad around the plate with the slices of tuna in the middle and serve with pickled cactus salad.

Suggested wine: Rubillo

Intense ruby red in colour with a hint of ripe black cherry fruit and a touch of spice on the nose. On the palate this wine is bursting with black fruit flavour with a warm.

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Amaretto chocolate mousse

Ingredients Biscuit crust • • • • •

250g dark chocolate 250ml fresh cream 1 tbsp caster sugar 2 tbsp amaretto liqueur 18 amaretti biscuits

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Topping • 125 ml fresh cream • 2 tbsps chopped toasted almonds

Method 1. Melt chocolate ‘bain Marie’ and leave to cool. 2. Whip 250ml cream with sugar until soft peaks form. 3. Fold in amaretto liqueur and melted chocolate until well mixed. 4. Crush 2 amaretti biscuits in each of 6 glasses. 5. Divide half of chocolate mixture into the 6 glasses. 6. Sprinkle another 2 crushed amaretti on top of chocolate mixture. 7. Spoon over the remaining chocolate mixture. 8. Whip 125ml cream until soft peaks form and spoon over the chocolate. 9. Decorate with the chopped toasted almonds and whole amaretti.

Suggested wine: Viña San Pedro Late Harvest Riesling Hailing from Chile, this inexpensive late harvest Riesling delivers with aromas and flavours of honey, apricot, fresh peach and caramel. Though perfect on its own, a fruit tart, apple pie or gingerbread will make this wine even more enjoyable. This Viña San Pedro Late Harvest Riesling will also pair nicely with an aged cheddar.



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Morsels of Maltese magnificence There’s nothing as Maltese as pastizzi, a guilty pleasure nearly everyone enjoys to indulge in though the high fat content has most girls running for the hills. Marilu Vella has come up with the perfect solution making reduced fat pastizzi with exotic fillings from Pastizzi Gourmet. Her pastry is free from all animal fat though her recipe remains secret. Why not try making some of these yourself using regular puff pastry and some of these delicious fillings?

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photography by ray attard

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With family members into agriculture, MarilÚ has always appreciated the value of fresh local ingredients, grown with love in family gardens and fields. These she puts to good use in her pastizzi, using fresh ingredients that change with the seasons. We take the time to visit during the grape harvest where MarilÚ is busy experimenting with grape fillings for her pastizzi at a kitchen at her brother’s vineyard in Siggiewi. Check out the all new grape and walnut pastizzi lauched at Festa Gheneb in Siggiewi yesterday.

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Ricotta and spin

Ingredients

ach

• Fresh ricotta • A generous serving of spinach • A pinch of sea salt • Eggs • Secret spice and a special ingredient

Method

1. Wash spinach well and steam over boiling wat er for a few minutes until they wilt. Leaving them for too long can result in bitt er spinach. 2. Once it is done, coo l down and cut it finely. 3. Mash ricotta and add sea salt. Add the spinac h gradually. 4. Add the eggs until the mixture is smooth.



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Anchovy and black Ingredients

olive

• Pea mixture • Tuna - tinned or fresh in summer. If fresh tuna is used, this must be lightly coo ked before adding it to the mixture. • Black olives • Special herbs and spices • Fresh parsley • Anchovy fillets

Method

1. Pea mixture is made by boiling and mashing peas, adding a tiny pinch of sea salt, onions fried in home-made olive oil, and a few pinches of the kitchen’s special spices and herbs. Avoid using too much salt as the anchov ies are also very salty. 2. Finely chop black olives and added to the mixture, along with the tun a and parsley, cut fresh from the back garden. 3. Anchovies can be cut into very small pieces and added to the entire mixture , especially if this is used for a pie. Pastizzi Gou rmet however, adds generous pieces of anchov ies to each pastizz, for an authentic taste of anchov y pastizzi.


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Apple & Cinnam Ingredients

• Apples • Sultana cinnamon • A generous pinch of ves clo und • A pinch of gro

Method

m into peel them and cut the 1. Wash apples well, very small pieces. h the ingredients together wit 2. Add the rest of the l. wel mix apples and ks this mixture in their 3. Pastizzi Gourmet coo can use it also as it is. one special way, but

These pastizzi and many more are available from Pastizzi Gourmet – prepared and frozen so all you have to do it put them into the oven for a truly original take on a Maltese favourite. For more information contact Marilù on 99888829, info@pastizzigourmet.com or find them on Facebook



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Marsala wine - Liq

I

n small town just outside Trapani, Marsala the people seem to have discovered gold – liquid gold. Living in the birthplace of the sweet fortified wine, the people seem to be living the life, where everybody seems to be enjoying the good life with not too much time being dedicated to work. On an average Thursday morning the old town is buzzing with life as people enjoy a leisurely chat while sipping on an espresso. The story of Marsala wine began in the 19th century when the English troops were stationed in Sicily. While the English loved the flavours of the local wines, they knew the wine would not fare well on the long voyage to England. Pioneer exporter John Woodhouse came up with a solution to preserve the wine long enough to take it back to England by adding grape brandy to the mix – a taste the British were already accustomed to with port and sherry. The Florio empire was started with a small pharmacy and in 1833 Vincenzo Florio, a Calabrese by birth and a Palermitano by adoption, bought some land along the shoreline of Marsala and set up Cantine Florio as only a small part of his entrepreneurial endeavours, which included tuna canning, sulpher-mining and a steamship line. They began to their own Marsala

wine with a superior variety of grapes that proved so successful he eventually bought out the Woodhouse production among others to consolidate the Marsala

wine industry. The road to success was not free of obstacles and the Florio family fought hard to keep the vineyard afloat. During the Second World War, the cellars were hit by air raids and sustained a large amount of damage with some of the oldest vintages lost. A few barrels however did survive and some of the oldest award-winning vintages, still in casks, date back to 1939, and some bottled Marsala that goes back to 1889. Today Marsala is made with indigenous grape varieties that include Cataratto, Grillo and Insolia and is aged in French oak barrels. Available as both dry and sweet the sweetness depends on the addition of most cotto, or cooked must that is added to the wine. The cellars were completely renovated in between 1984 and the early 1990s returning them to their former glory following the destruction caused by two world wars. The ground slopes towards the sea with sandstone floors that absorb moisture and wooden barrels stacked on top of each other as they were at the dawn of Cantine Florio. Though the moscato cellars have been equipped with temperature control as the grape is much more fragile than that


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iquid gold

Marsala is classified as follows: • Oro has a golden color. • Ambra has an amber color. The coloring comes from the mosto cotto sweetener added to the wine. • Rubino has a ruby color. • Fine has minimal aging, typically less than a year. • Superiore is aged at least two years. • Superiore Riserva is aged at least four years. • Vergine e/o Soleras is aged at least five years. • Vergine e/o Soleras Stravecchio and Vergine e/o Soleras Riserva are aged at least 10 years.

used for the fortified wines. Though the dry versions were traditionally served as an aperitif or in between the first and second courses, today they are usually served at the end of the meal with cheese or with dessert.

Marsala wines contain between 15 and 20% alcohol and are classified according to their sweetness and duration of aging. Ranging from secco (dry) to semisecco and sweet they can have between 40 and more than 100g of residual sugar per litre.

The sweeter varieties are usually used for cooking – a vital ingredient in the Sicilian special vitella marsala and zabaglione or tiramisu desserts. Cantine Florio and Casa Vinicola Duca di Salaparuta, the producers of Corvo, are both owned by Illva Saronno Holding. The Salaparuta dukes were the first to bottle Sicilian wines in 1824. They used the knowledge they picked up while working in wine production in France to bring elegance and technical know-how to Sicilian wines. It was then that Duca Enrico was born – the first wine made exclusively from Nero D’Avola grapes, a variety that is now seen as symbolic of Sicilian wine production. The winery, in Casteldaccia just outside Palermo, is the largest in Sicily, producing a variety of wines from the value for money, quaffable Corvo Glicine to the more refined Duca Enrico and everything in between.

Florio, Corvo and Duca di Salaparuta wines are distributed by Paul Bonnici and Son Ltd., Jade, Mdina Road, Zebbug. Contact: 2258 5600 or info@pbsl.com.mt


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Make your summer sparkle with the stylish Martini Royale Cocktail Summer is in full swing and all the summer elements are in place, balmy summer nights, lazy hazy days on boats, trendy parties, and great nights out. The only ingredient missing now to make your summer even more stylish and fun is a fabulous cocktail. Cue the Martini Royale, a delicious mix of 50% MARTINI Rosato and 50% Prosecco with a squeeze of orange. A twist on the classic wine spritzer and

kir royal, the Martini Rosato adds an interesting hint of spice blending beautifully with the Martini Prosecco. This is an easy cocktail to drink

and perfect to share with friends. With its invitingly pale pink colour and a wedge of orange and mint leaves nestling between lots of ice

cubes, this is the perfect cocktail to serve, guaranteed to add a glamorous style touch to all your summer moments.

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Summer is a time of colourful fun, holidays and family visits. For artist Susan Waitt it means a visit from her daughter, India and her fiancĂŠ, Marco Allessio from the US. Together they whip up a summery meal easy to prepare and fun to eat surrounded by the beautiful colours of their garden. While the ladies are preparing the food, Marco, a certified mixologist at East Side CafĂŠ in Pittsfield Massachusetts gets busy with the cocktails. Barbequed lamb burgers, king prawns with a mojo salsa, a cheesy quiche and some cinnamon maple syrup twists make for a delightful family get-together.

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photography by ray attard

Summery garden fun


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mushroom ree-cheese spinach and

Th quiche

Ingredients

of • 8-10 eggs (depending on size eggs) • 2 containers soured cream • 2 containers double cream thyme • 2 tbsp dried tarragon or fresh and dill • A handful fresh parsley, chopped • 225g of 3 different cheeses Use two hard cheeses and one soft creamy cheese. I used an aged cheddar, havarti and gruyere. • 2 cups fresh spinach ed • 2 cups button mushrooms, cook • 2 cups diced gammon, optional • Extra dill to garnish • Savoury shortcrust pastry

Method

Brush bottom of pan with oil, dust with flour. Roll out dough in an irregular circle and fit it loosely into the pan with enough overhang to create a hand crimped edge. d in 2. Blend together at high spee a food processor half the soured cream, eggs, double cream and herbs. You will have to remove

1.

the blended ingredients to a bowl or even a large pitcher, whilst you whir together the remaining cream and eggs. ach, 3. Begin to layer cheeses, spin mushrooms and either ladle or pour some of the egg mixture to cover before repeating the process. Try to end with the egg

mixture. Add a few sprigs of fresh dill or thyme. 5. Loosely cover only the crimped edges with aluminum foil and carefully place pan in a preo heated oven at 225 C for about tes. minu 40- 50 the 6. All the baking takes place in last 15 minutes - so cover the entire quiche loosely with foil when you begin to see a hint of browning. Quiche is done when there is a bit of a springy resistance in the middle. 7. Allow quiche to “ rest” consolidate, and cool a bit for best results. Oilier cheeses such as cheddar may leave a shine on top of quiche that can be easily blotted away with paper kitchen

4.

towels.

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Jumbo prawns with m

ojo salsa

Ingredients

• Long- grain white rice • Long- grain black rice (squ id ink) • 25-30 fresh jumbo/king praw ns in

shell (try to stick to local)

For the mojo salsa: • • • • • • • • • • •

2 red peppers 1 yellow pepper 1 sweet onion 2 tbsp fresh lime juice 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce Zest from half a lemon 1 clove of garlic, minced 2 sprigs coriander or parsley , chopped ½ tsp sweet paprika 70g butter Cajun seasoning to taste

Method

1.

Lightly sauté washed and slice d (or diced) peppers and onio ns, garlic and the remaining ingredients in larg e skillet. Remove from heat whil st still crisp. 2. In the meantime, prepare the two rices separately in sma ll saucepots according to directions on pack age. 3. Add the prawns to skillet and coat completely, careful to keep them intact. 4. Cook for 5-7 minutes add more water, sparingly, if need ed – and a splash of cognac or brandy (optional) if you want to flambe the prawns. 5. Plate the two different rice s with the prawns and sauce lade lled into the centre. Dress with lime wedges and serve immediately.

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BBQ lamb burgers with garlicky yogurt-dill sauce

Ingredients

• 500g ground lamb (buy your preferred cut at the butcher’s and have him grind it fresh) • 1 egg • A handful breadcrumbs • A handful fresh dill, finely minced or, as an option, 1/8 cup fennel bulb, minced and lightly sauted. • 1 tbsp shallots, minced • ½ tsp dried oregano • Salt and pepper to taste • Gluten- free rolls • Red-leaf lettuce For the sauce • ¼ cup mayonnaise • ¼ cup firm-bodied plain yogurt • ½ tsp garlic, minced • 1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped

Method

1. Mix together in a mini- processor (or small bowl) mayonnaise, yogurt, garlic and dill. 2. Cover and refrigerate for a couple of hours . 3. Prepare barbeque grill or large pan by preheating and brushing with oil. If preparing sliders in a stove- top pan, we alway s have a bit of extra oil and red cooking wine on hand to keep meat moist and prevent it from sticking. 4. Mix together lamb, egg, bread- crumbs, dill or fennel, shallots, oregano and salt 5. Form into 4 lamb burger patties and sprink le with freshly ground pepper. 6. Place burgers on grill or in pan, being carefu l to keep them moist with a brush of oil and a splash of cooking wine 7. Cook for 3-5 minutes on each side. Turn once or twice. 8. Serve open-faced on rolls with lettuce and garlicky yogurt-dill sauce.


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To add some colour to your outdoor parties match the dishes with the following cocktails expertly mixed by Marco while the ladies prepared the food. Green Mamba (aka Summer Bummer)

Creamsicles Whilst the kids enjoy Creamsicles on a hot evening, their parents can enjoy a grown- up version of the same - in a Summertime drink also called Creamsicle.

Ingredients • • • • •

1.5 parts white rum ž parts melon liqueur 1 part pineapple juice 1 part orange juice splash Blue Curacao

Ingredients • • • •

Method

1. 2.

Shake and pour ingredients into hurricane glass Top off with Blue Curacao

ž ½ ž ž

parts parts parts parts

spiced rum Triple Sec pineapple juice orange soda

Method

1. Chill all ingredients and strain into a glass. 2. Top with orange soda

Serve with Bayou style jumbo prawns with mojo salsa and rice garnished with fresh limes.

Serve with India’s cinnamon maple sugar twists.

The Patriot Ingredients

• 2 parts Hypnotic • 1.5 parts raspberry vodka • 1 part cranberry juice

Method

1. Chill the Hypnotic and place into a martini glass. 2. Mix the chilled raspberry vodka and cranberry juice. 3. Float on top of the Hypnotic. Serve with lamb burgers with yoghurt-dill sauce on gluten-free rolls and a side of potato or parsnip fritters with coarse ground salt.

Continental Coffee Cooler

Restaurant opening hours: Lunch 12:30 - 14:00 Dinner 18:30 till late Pretty Bay, Birzebbuga BBG 2063, Malta Tel: (356) 21 651256, 21 651499, 21 651493 'BY t & .BJM TFBIPUFM!NBMUBOFU OFU 8FC XXX TFBCSFF[FIPUFMNBMUB DPN

Ingredients • • • • •

½ part Grand Marnier ½ part Frangelico ½ part amaretto 1 part Bailey’s Milk to taste

Method

1. Shake and pour into glass. Serve with a wedge of Taggart House three cheeses, spinach, mushroom, sour cream and dill quiche – always a hit with guests at the Taggart House inn in the US.


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Achaval Ferrer – Argentina’s finest wines Does Argentina really have a fine wine dimension? That’s a good question. The experts think ‘yes’, and largely because of the amazing wines of Achaval Ferrer, which for them is Argentina’s most impressive producer. Achaval-Ferrer is – and will always be – a small winery. They are joyfully committed to the production of limited quantities of the best red wines. The team shares this passion for making great wines that are a faithful expression of their terroir. A group of Argentinean and Italian friends started this adventure in 1998, with love for the land and the goal of achieving the highest quality. Achaval Ferrer wines retail at Charles Grech shops in range of € 12 to € 44 per bottle.

An enduring partnership A great champagne, like a great dandy, has a duty to be modest in its success. Firstly because its presence speaks for itself. It is merely the expression of the most exquisite taste. Secondly, and above all, because it is a great wine, in other words a work of patience and occasional doubt, the product of a complex, and often capricious terroir. The partnerships that endure are those with shared values. Aston Martin and Louis Roederer share not only exclusivity but the ethos that the best creations are those that take time and care to bring to life. Attention to detail, refinement and a heritage that echoes throughout history link two brands that are sure to share, not only a special relationship, but their future. Imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Valley Road, B’Kara

Tel: 2144 4400



Royale

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FILL WITH 7-8 ICE CUBES

POUR 50% POUR MARTINI 50% ROSATO MAR TINI PROSECCO

GARNISH WITH FRESH SQUEEZE MINT AND ADD ORANGE WEDGE

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Royale



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Summer living Local goats cheese baked in filo pastry

S

un, sand and beaches is what most people think of when summer is mentioned, but for a lot of us it is work as usual with the added bonus of unbearable heat and increased traffic. To add to the strain of all this we also tend to entertain more in the summer, but as I remarked in the last edition of Gourmet, no one in their right senses wants to spend countless hours slaving at a hot stove trying to create complicated and elaborate dishes. So, to continue with the same theme as last time, I am proposing two recipes that are quite simple, but make very tasty eating. They are also recipes with no actual recipe, if you get my drift. The exact measurements are not really required. Read on and you will see why.

Michael Diacono is chef patron at Giuseppi’s Restaurant in Mellieha and Rubino Ristorante in Valletta. Contact: 99493579

oil till translucent then adding dry chilli flakes. We flamed very carefully with brandy then added honey to get a thickish but still runny consistency.

Ingredients • 1 gbejna per person ( do not use the very fresh ones as they are too soft) • 1 sheet filo pastry per cheeselet • Olive oil to brush • A little fresh breadcrumbs • Sesame seeds

Suggested wine

Merlot Cabernet This Merlot Cabernet from Ta’ Mena in Gozo is well-blended, intense red in colour with a bouquet of mature red fruit. Serve at 17ºC to 20ºC Celsius with red meat dishes, pasta and cheese.

Beef ‘involtini’ on skewers For the filling simply mix some fresh breadcrumbs with coarsely grated Fiorucci pecorino, chopped fresh rocket, chopped parsley, some garlic and salt and pepper. Bind with a fresh egg. The rocket and pecorino work really well together and give a wonderful flavour. Ingredients Lay the beef on a board and season • 1 thin slice of beef lightly. Flatten slightly if too thick ( rump per person they should be the same as for beef • Handful fresh olives) breadcrubs Place some filling on the meat and • Fiorucci pecorino roll up. Cut into smaller involtini and • Handful fresh place onto the skewers which should rocket have been soaked in water for 30 • Handful parsely minutes. chopped Place into a large dish and drizzle • 1 egg • 2 cloves garlic with Bianconi extra virgin olive oil • Bianconi extra then cook on a hot grill for about 4 virgin olive oil minutes on each side till done.

Suggested wine Vermentino

This Gozitan Vermentino offers a lean, bright nose of citrus, fresh pear and hints of herb and spice, with a clean, flavourful and well-balanced finish. Best served at 8oC to 10oC with white meat and delicate fish dishes, pasta and salads

photography by Photocity

Michael Diacono

Simply lay the filo pastry sheet on a board and brush with Bianconi olive oil (keep the rest of the pastry covered as it dries very quickly). Sprinkle a little breadcrumbs on the pastry and fold over in half. Place a gbejna in the middle and wrap up into a parcel. Brush with more oil and sprinkle with some sesame seeds. Place on baking parchment. Cover and keep in the fridge till needed. To cook , heat oven to 200oC and bake for about 10 minutes till golden. Serve at once with some chutney or relish. We served it with chilli jam which we made by frying a little garlic and onions in


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gourmet today

La Grappa...the true Italian spirit

Dear Readers, In this issue we will be discovering together the world of grappa. By John Bugeja Tasting a beverage or food with appreciation and evaluating the sensory aspects and their qualities can be a gruelling task for non-experts. All this requires a certain amount of attention and above all the ability to listen to one’s senses, which are the fantastic receptors of everything occurring around us. In order to recognise a grappa by its bouquet it is essential to develop an olfactory memory and create in our mind an archive of fragrances to be used as a means of comparison in our tasting, but it also key to develop a tasting memory. After establishing these fixed rules for the tasting procedures, an adequate terminology, and ensuring the correct course of everything, it is possible to express an opinion on what we taste.

The production of wine distillate, for example became known when the Padua doctor Michele Savonarda published the first treatise on the subject “De conficienda Aqua Vitae”. The distilling of grape pulp probably began around the 14th -15th century or possibly even before. Grappa was not aqua-vitae intended for the privileged classes, who preferred wine or its distillate, leaving the common folk what remained, i.e. the skins, seeds and stalks of the fermented grapes. Grappa was certainly very different from the distillate we know today. It must have been drier, and sometimes even saturated with disagreeable and bland substances. Grappa existed over the ages with such characteristics of a plain, strong and invigorating drink. Recent statistical studies on the world of grappa have shown that consumers manage to distinguish this distillate from the others at first smell. This confirms

the very particular olfactory characteristic of Italy’s national distillate. In fact, its affluence of fragrances and flavours means it cannot be mistaken for any other aqua-vitae, even if, regarding this complexity, the vast majority of consumers have difficulty in defining or describing it in words. Grappa is perceived as a distillate be consumed calmly, discovering all its numerous qualities, at home


August 2012 or after dinner in restaurants or in wine bars; the increasingly severe Highway Code regulations have contributed to favouring the drinking of Grappa at home. This also explains the changed trends in grappa consumption: an aware approach to tasting of the distillate, which indicates discerning tasting, without any form of exaggeration. Grappa has crossed the national borders, above all, addressing those markets where products made in Italy are highly appreciated, such as in the United States and Canada. But the reference foreign market remains that of Germany, with its great esteem for Italian products. The Asian markets, however, are showing growing interest in Italian distillate, with a preference for grappa aged in wooden barrels. One of the leading Italian distillate firms is Distillerie Berta in Casalotto di Mombaruzzo, Piemonte. The modern state-of-the-art Roccanivo distillery owned by the Berta family opened in the grape harvest of 2002, a historic vintage for this family/business and for the economic development of the Asti wine sector. Also in 2002, on the eve of the harvest, the moment when the Berta family’s address took back the place-name of Roccanivo (Casalotto di Mombaruzzo) a large structure, that decided to expand further, built with a careful sense of its relation to the vine hills, where it peacefully sits, with a façade of a simple house, displaying the family name on the frieze. It is a house belonging as much to grappa as to the Berta family, open and comfortable, decorated with the coats of arms of all the surrounding regions, where wine is produced with artisanal mastery and state-of-the-art electronic systems. In a warm and cosy atmosphere, the steam-powered stills work slowly and rigorously, to transform the damp and aromatic grape pomace into something strong, but at the same time soft and subtle. Visitors are sheltered by an antique wooden roof and breathtaking, striking views of the hilly landscape. The Berta Distilleries have become not only an obligatory stop on any itinerary dedicated to food and wine lovers flocking to these hills, but it also continues to be the destination for friends from the world of entertainment and sports, artists, elite restaurateurs, and the great Italian winemaking families; all brought together by “that unmistakeable aroma of freshly pressed

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gourmet today

grapes”. The Berta house honours the ancient and valuable culture of hospitality, in keeping with the spirit of union and collaboration with all who work in the area. Thus the Berta family opened its tasting room to offer the widest possible array of products typical of the region. At Casalotto di Mombaruzzo the very best food and wines are on display and there are many delicacies from the hills of Asti: the Mombaruzzo amaretti and a selection of wines from the producers of the region: Arbiola, Abbona, Az Agr Alessandro, Balbiano, Braida, Bricco Maiolica, Cà d’Cicul, Chiappone, Conterno Fantino, Coppo, F.lli Bianco, Forteto della Luja, Garetto, Ghignone Augusto, Ghisolfi, Guido Berta, Hastae, La Barbatella, Lajeû, Malgrà, Meridiana, Michele Chiarlo, Olim Bauda, Parusso, Pico Maccario, Pelissero, Prunotto, Sebaste, Scagliola, Scrimaglio, Vietti e Voerzio, and other great labels to be added shortly. At Casalotto di Mombaruzzo, passing through the corridors, the rooms and suites of the distillery, you will learn about the history of a family that has made the art of distillation its guideline. The Berta family wanted to follow in the footsteps of the antiquity of a profession that has shaped the history and development of man- on display in a spacious room are the systems and equipment used in the past,

partly by the family itself, and partly objects recovered and acquired over the course of time. Among the stills, distillers, concentration bubbles and distillation towers that seem to march past, providing an exciting exhibition of a centuries-long history; the original distillation system of 1947 stands out, dating back to the distillery’s first year in the business. Adding to this important cultural heritage are some stills dating from 1968 made by German engineer Christian Carl of Goeppingen, some of the boilers of the F.lli Mussi Company in Milan and an original parchment from 1662 in Latin reporting the establishment of an ecclesiastical order in Casalotto di Mombaruzzo. The flagship grappa from Distillerie Berta is produced from Nebbiolo Grapes the 20 year old Grappa Riserva del Fondatore ‘Paolo Berta’. Here where the brothers Gianfranco and Enrico gave their best just to honour their father’s memory and the real superlative, no words to be added. Ciao a Tutti alla prossima

If you are interested in any of Distillierie Berta Products kindly contact us on. E-mail Adress: jbugeja@attardco.com/mvella@attardco.com/ pmintoff@attardco.com Tel: 25692203/25692111/25692109


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August 2012

gourmet today

Abundant sweetness of Maltese figs

37

Stuffed figs Ingredients

• 8 ripe but fir m figs (Tin) • 150g ricotta • 8 walnuts, sh elled and choppe d • 4 walnuts, ha lved • 3 tbsp pistac hios (chopped fin ely) • 2 blocks of dark chocolate • 2 tbsp hone y, plus some for drizzling

Method

By Gaby Holland

T

he fig (Ficus carica ) or Siġra tat-Tin as it is known in Maltese, has been cultivated since ancient times and there are now hundreds of varieties around the world. This deciduous tree or large shrub is native to the Middle East but grows very well in the Mediterranean since the dry and sunny climate is especially suitable for the plant. The fruit is actually an inverted flower, but since it looks and tastes like a fruit, it is referred to as such by convention. Pollinating insects gain access to the flowers through an opening of the fruit. This fruit grows well in Malta and may be found growing wild in the countryside. There are hundreds of varieties of figs around the world and the common fig tree can produce different varieties of fruit during different periods of the year. The first fruit is the larger one (bajtar) produced

in late June. The second smaller but sweeter fruit (tin) is produced in August/September. Figs range dramatically in colour and subtly in texture depending upon the variety. The bajtar and tin have a blackish skin whilst the farkizzan and parsott are smaller with a yellow-green skin. Although dried figs are available throughout the year, there is nothing like the unique taste and texture of fresh figs. They are lusciously sweet with a texture that combines the smoothness of the flesh, the chewiness of their skin, and the crunchiness of their seeds. However, like dates, the food value increases with drying. Figs are a good source of potassium, a mineral that helps to control blood pressure and a good source of dietary fiber and calcium. Figs also have a laxative effect and contain many antioxidants. Before eating or cooking figs, wash them under cool water and then gently remove the stem. Gently wipe dry. Figs can be eaten fresh or dried, and used in jam-

making. Most commercial production is in dried or otherwise processed forms, since the ripe fruit does not transport well, and once picked does not keep well. Dried figs can simply be eaten, used in a recipe as is, or simmered for several minutes in water or fruit juice to make them plumper and juicier. Figs were held in such esteem by the Greeks that they created laws forbidding the export of the best quality figs. Figs were also revered in ancient Rome where they were thought of as a sacred fruit. FUN FACTS

According to Roman myth, the wolf that nurtured the twin founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus, rested under a fig tree. The fig is symbol of abundance, fertility and sweetness. This fruit is immortalized in a sensual poem entitled “Figs” by D.H. Lawrence.

Photography by Gaby Holland

1. Wash and fry figs and cut a cro ss section withou cutting right throu t gh. 2. Mash up the ricotta and mix in th e honey, choppe walnuts, pistachio d s and chocolate. 3. Gently prise open each fig an d stuff with a ge spoonful of the nerous ricotta mixture. 4. Drizzle with so me honey and top 5. Sprinkle with with a walnut ha lf. some more crush ed pistachios an crushed chocola d te. 6. Refrigerate an d serve chilled.



August 2012

gourmet today

39

Meet the chefs

in collaboration with

Roberta Preca Tal-Familja Restaurant Triq il-Gardiel, Marsascala Tel: 2163 2161 www.talfamiljarestaurant.com

Ramona Preca Palazzo Preca Restaurant 54, Strait Street, Valletta Tel: 2122 6777 www.palazzoprecarestaurant.com

Tempura Prawns Serves 1

Ingredients • • • •

12 fresh prawns Salt and pepper 1 cup iced water 1 cup self raising flour, sifted

Banana tart tatin Serves 4

Ingredients

• 175g caster sugar • 50g unsalted butter, diced • 6 bananas • Fresh cream For the pastry • 250g flour • 125g butter • 3 egg yolks • 60g castor sugar • zest of ½ a lemon (optional)

Method 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2. Place the flour, butter, sugar and the lemon rind (if using) in a food processor. 3. Blend for a few seconds, then add half the beaten egg, and continue whizzing. Add the remaining egg slowly as needed until the pastry just comes together. Alternatively, if making by hand, rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar and lemon rind, then bring it

Method:

VWT Suggests to try out this recipe with a bottle of Sutter Home Pinot Grigio

1. Beat an egg in a bowl. 2. Add iced water to the mixture. 3. Add sifted flour and mix lightly, being careful not to overmix the batter and allow to stand for a few minutes 4. Shell the prawns leaving the tail on. 5. Holding the tail dredge the prawns in the batter and deep fry until the batter turns golden brown.

together with the egg. 4. Flatten out the ball of dough till it is about 3cm thick. 5. Wrap or cover it, and place it in the fridge for at least 30 minutes (it will keep well for a couple of days). 6. Make the caramel base for the tarts by combining the sugar and 50ml of water in a small heavy-based saucepan over high heat. 7. Cook the syrup until it is golden, then remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter and cream. 8. Divide the caramel among 6 tarte tatin pans. 9. Cut the bananas into 5mm slices and place them on top of the caramel, arranging the slices in a single, slightly overlapping layer. 10. Cut out 6 sweet pastry rounds to fit the tarte tatin pans and place one in each pan, tucking the edges in. Bake for 20 minutes or until golden. 11. Gently turn out each warm tarte tatin by turning the pan upside-down and tapping the bottom; it should slide out. 12. Place a tart in the centre of each plate, top with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream and serve immediately.

VWT Suggests to try out this recipe with a bottle of Sutter Home Gewurtraminer



August 2012

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gourmet today

Long summer holidays are great when the scholastic year comes to an end along with it the responsibility of exams, uniforms and punctuality. However as the summer drags on and the kids get bored, parents need to be more creative to keep them entertained and out of trouble. Getting your kids into food will not only give them something fun to do but will also teach them to ditch the junk food and go with home-cooked goodness. Chef de Partie Christian Spiteri and Executive Patissier Robert Spiteri at the Radisson Blu Resort in St Julian’s inspire Alec, Sam and Adele to make a three-course meal which they promptly went home to recreate for the family.

D

photography by ray attard

Junior Cooks


Junior Cooks

42

gourmet today

August 2012

Penne with Maltese sausage Ingredients Serves 2 • • • • • • • • • • • • •

250g penne 1 Maltese sausage 50g mushrooms ½ red pepper ½ yellow pepper ½ green pepper ½ a small onion Handful parsley, chopped 75ml white wine 1 can chopped tomatoes Fresh cream Oil Salt & pepper

Method 1. Fry the onions, Maltese sausage, peppers and mushrooms in a sauce pan. 2. Add the white wine and simmer until the sauce reduces. 3. Finally add the tomato sauce and cream, salt & pepper. 4. In the meantime boil the penne until al dente. 5. Toss with the sauce. 6. Top with chopped parsley and a sprig of basil to garnish. 7. Serve with plenty of fresh Parmeggiano Reggiano.

D



Junior Cooks

44

gourmet today

Chicken & pepper kebabs on a bed of couscous Ingredients Serves 2 • • • • • • •

2 medium chicken breasts ½ red pepper ½ yellow pepper ½ green pepper ½ small zucchini 4 bamboo skewers Salt & pepper

For the couscous vegetable salad • 200g couscous • 250ml boiling water • 3 tomatoes, chopped • 3 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar • 2 tbsp chopped fresh mint • 2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander • 1 lemon, juice only • 1 lime, juice only

Method 1. Dice the chicken breast, peppers and zucchini into squarish chunks. 2. Thread the ingredients onto the skewer in a sequential order until all have been used up. 3. Place on the BBQ or grill pan and cook for approx 20 mins turning occasionally. 4. Place the couscous in a bowl and pour over the boiling water. 5. Cover with cling film and leave for five minutes for the couscous to absorb the water. 6. Remove the cling film from the bowl and fluff up the couscous with a fork. 7. Stir through the remaining ingredients and return to the bowl. 8. Lay BBQ skewers on the couscous salad. If using a BBQ grill soak the bamboo skewers for 1 hour beforehand to avoid the wooden skewers burning out.

August 2012


45

gourmet today

Junior Cooks

August 2012

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gourmet today

Glazed fruit tarts Ingredients Serves 4 For the shortcrust pastry • 200g plain flour • ¼ tsp salt • 120g unsalted butter, at room temperature • 50g granulated sugar • 1 large egg, lightly beaten For the custard • 400 ml milk • ½ a vanilla bean • 1 cinnamon stick • Zest from ½ an orange and ½ a lemon • 80g sugar • 30g corn flour • 4 egg yolks Apricot glaze • 120g apricot glaze • 1 tbsp water

Method

5 6

Only add enough water to bind it and then stop. Wrap the dough in clingfilm as before and chill for 10-15 minutes before using. Line a tart dish with butter and bake blind for 15 mins in a preheated oven at 190°C.

For the custard 7 Put the milk vanilla, cinnamon and the orange & lemon zest in a pan and boil. 8 Mix in the corn flour and the egg yolk and stir till it boils. 9 Allow to cool. For the glaze 10 Heat the apricot jam and the water in a pan until it has melted. 11 Strain to remove any pieces of fruit. 12 Fill the tartlets with the cream and top with fresh fruit in season. Cover with apricot glaze with a pastry brush.

For the pastry 3 Using a food processor, put the flour, butter and salt in the food processor and pulse until the fat is rubbed into the flour. 4 With the motor running, gradually add the water through the funnel until the dough comes together.

Le Bistro restaurant located at Radisson Blu Resort, St.Julian’s is open 24 hours a day offering a brand new exciting menu with food options for all dietary requirements. From snacks and fresh salads that you can mix and match according to your taste buds, to angus beef burgers, deliciously baked pasta, fresh fish and a delectable choice of desserts, Le Bistro has something for you. In the heat of summer, you can enjoy al fresco dining on the terrace enjoying the beautiful sea view. Le Bistro is also offering a new You Choose lunch menu where you can enjoy any two courses for €20 per person including a bottle of mineral water. For reservations call 21374894

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Junior Cooks

August 2012


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August 2012

gourmet today - events

events

Aperitivo night at Palazzo Parisio

photography by MArtin Petersson

Yan Grima, Pippa Psaila, Julienne Sciberras, Anna Cesenni, Laura Cesenni, Francesco Sultana and Lucio Sciriha

Susan Ismajlova

Baroness of Tabria Christiane Ramsay Scicluna and Justine Pergola

Pippa Psaila and Julienne Sciberras

Gourmet Today recipe index Starters Fig and ricotta bruschetta..............................5 Ajo blanco...........................................................5 Ricotta and spinach pastizzi........................13 Anchovy and black olive pastizzi..............13 Goat cheese in filo pastry.............................33 Penne with Maltese sausage........................42 Mains Marinated tuna.................................................7 Three cheese quiche......................................24 Jumbo prawns.................................................25 BBQ lamb burgers.........................................27 Beef involtini....................................................33 Tempura prawns.............................................39 Chicken kebabs . ............................................44

Dessert Chocolate amaretto mousse.........................9 Apple and cinnamon ...................................16 Stuffed figs........................................................37 Banana tart tatin.............................................39 Glazed fruit tarts............................................47 Accompaniments Pickled cactus salad.........................................7 Mojo salsa.........................................................25 Cocktails Martini Royale ...............................................21 Green Mamba.................................................28 Creamsicles......................................................28 The Patriot........................................................28 Continental coffee cooler.............................28


"Intelligence is something we are born with. BBQ’ing is a skill that must be learned" - Edward de Bono

Gentle laughter, like a summer breeze, floats across the warm night air. The Aroma of fresh fish and sizzling Rib Eye Steaks gently grilled while the Pastry Chef’s creations patiently await your dessert. Enjoying the diverse Cocktails or sipping on a chilled wine or champagne. For more detailed information and bookings contact us on 2125 0520 or info@excelsior.com.mt.

www.excelsior.com.mt


Tel: 21896290/1 E-mail: events@james-caterers.com


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