Today ISSUE NUMBER 20 • March 2013
€2.00 where sold
Traditional Easter food with Rita Diacono A Spanish fiesta with Pippa Mattei Preserving winter citrus fruits
OVER
25ES
www.facebook.com/gourmettoday
RECIP INSIDE
www.facebook.com/GoHealthyMT
March 2013
gourmet today
3 Easter preparations with our homecooks 10 Rita Diacono makes some of her Easter favourites 19 Pippa Mattei reproduces the Spanish fiesta she encountered in Madrid 24 Preserving the zesty citrus fruits of the winter 29 Our Junior Cooks, the inspirations behind Lulu’s Café, make Easter figolli 39 Mick Gillen celebrates St Paddy’s Day under the Maltese sun 48 Get into the festive season with Gaby’s chestnut soup 51 Michael Diacono makes it just like nanna used to 52 Gaby Holland uses beetroots’ natural dye 55 Healthy office snacks
Editor’s note
24 29
10
3 39
The winter has been relatively mild with more sunny days I can remember certainly than last year and quite possibly the year before that. However this has by no means meant that warming soups and stews went amiss this winter. Easter is coming early this year and with it the promise of spring, longer, sunnier days and dining outside on the abundance of vegetables available at this time of year. Our homecooks prepare an Easter feast that includes the traditional lamb and chocolately dessert. Gaby Holland creates a hearty starter inspired by the local kusku, though transformed into a pasta bake. For main course she makes an easy-to-prepare, delicious butterflied lamb and Sandra Dimech rounds off the meal with a delicious chocolate and marmalade torte, which contains no flour and is thus suitable for the ever-growing population of gluten intolerants. To make this dessert even more ‘homemade’, make your own marmalade with Pippa Mattei’s recipes as she preserves the remaining citrus fruits. She also comes back from a holiday to Spain where she picked up some of the best recipes for paella along with beautifully fried salted cod cakes and churros with a rich chocolate dipping sauce for dessert, all of which is naturally washed down with loads of sangria. Gourmet Today has featured many of the Diacono cooks over the years. In this issue we go back to the source of their culinary learning to pick up a few tricks from the master herself, Rita Diacono, whose children and grandchildren have inherited her love of food and kept a close eye on what was going on in the kitchen. We hope that you enjoy this issue of Gourmet Today and look forward to receiving your comments and suggestions. We would like to take this opportunity to wish you and your family a Happy Easter, full of love and food. Bon appétit!
Published by:
Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 2138 2741 Fax: +356 2138 1992 www.maltatoday.com.mt
Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt
Design: Kevin Grech Photography: Ray Attard, Justine Navarro and Robert Smith Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia Contact for advertising: Chris Sacco – 21382741 ext: 122
Cover: Rita Diacono Cover photo by Ray Attard Printed at: Print It Printing Services
3
gourmet today
HOME COOKS
After a particularly mild winter, Easter signals the beginning of spring when we can slowly start to take to the ‘great outdoors’ and begin dining outside, enjoying the longer daylight hours and spring vegetables. Whilst Ann Gatt is off on holiday, Gaby Holland took over and prepared a kusksu pasta bake – a comforting variation of the local soup made with abundantly fresh veggies – artichokes, peas and broad beans that can be served as a starter or a meal in itself. With Easter just around the corner, lamb is a necessary main course, marinated in yoghurt and spices for extra flavour. Sandra Dimech rounds off the meal with a delightful, flour-free chocolate and marmalade cake, topped with fresh cream and marmalade bits.
D
photography by Justine Navarro
March 2013
March 2013
HOM
E CO 5 OKS
gourmet today
Kusksu pasta
bake Serves 8 (as a starter)
Ingredients • • • • • •
• • • • • • • • •
500g ditali pasta (zibbeg) 1 tbsp olive oil 50g butter 1 large leek, finely chopped 1 cup vegetable or chicken stock A few saffron threads (optional – besides the delicate flavour they give off a deeper yellow colour to the pasta) 5 fresh gbejniet 4 dried gbejniet 6 large, fresh artichoke hearts 4 eggs 1½ cups ful, outer skins removed 1 cup fresh peas 100g grated Parmeggiano or Grana Padano small bunch of finely chopped parsley Salt and pepper
Method
1. Boil the pasta in a large pot, 2 mins short of recommended cooking time. Rinse under cold running water to stop the cooking and drain thoroughly. 2. Heat the oil and half the butter in large frying pan and stir in the leeks and gently fry for a couple of mins.
3. Add the stock, saffron, ful, peas and season well. 4. Cook rapidly until stock has evaporated. 5. Quarter the artichokes and stir in gently into the mixture. 6. Tip all into the large pasta pot and mix in the drained pasta. 7. Beat the eggs and stir in together with the grated cheese, parsley and freshly ground pepper. 8. Spoon the pasta mixture into a greased flat bottomed springform cake tin. If you like you may use one that has a hollow in the middle. Once baked and turned out the hollow may be filled with coloured hard-boiled eggs for a special Easter treat. 9. Press the mixture down to level it out and bake in a pre-heated oven at 180°C for about 30 mins until the pasta is golden. 10. Remove from oven and leave to cool and settle then run a blunt knife around the edge of the cake tin to loosen, place the serving plate on top of the tin and carefully turn it upside down, give it a little tap and unmould. 11. If you have used a hollow cake tin fill with hard boiled eggs which may be eaten together with the pasta.
Suggested wine: MICHELE CHIARLO RORERO ARNEIS Made from the Arenis grape, a variety only appreciated since the mid 1970s despite its much earlier origins, this wine is straw yellow in colour with green highlights. It is intense, generous and ample in aroma with notes of linden, mint and apricot. It is a fresh and elegant wine with a silky texture, fine balance and a delicate finish.
D
6
gourmet today
March 2013
March 2013
HOM
gourmet today
Butterflied lamb and honeyed pumpkin Ingredients •
• • • •
1 large leg of lamb (ask the butcher to butterfly the meat the day before you need it) 1 tub of plain yoghurt 8 cloves garlic Large bunch of fresh coriander leaves, mint and parsley 2 tbsp cumin
• • • • • •
2 tbsp coriander seeds 1 tbsp cinnamon 1 lemon, juice and zest 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp harrisa paste (add more if you like it spicier) Coarse salt
7
E CO
OKS
Honeyed pumpkin • • • • •
1 large wedge of pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1cm slices Pinch cinnamon Olive oil Honey Coarse salt
Method
1. Place the garlic, herbs and spices in a food processer and blend. 2. Add the yoghurt, lemon juice and zest and olive oil and pulse until well blended. 3. Using a sharp knife punch slits all over the surface of the lamb and rub the paste all over the meat pushing some into the slits. 4. Allow to marinate in the fridge for 24 hours. 5. Sprinkle the slices of pumpkin with some cinnamon, drizzle honey and olive oil and season with salt. 6. Remove lamb from marinade and place in shallow roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast, uncovered, for 50-70 mins in a pre-heated oven at 180°C. 7. 20 mins before end of cooking add the pumpkin slices to the pan, around the lamb. 8. Remove from oven and cover lamb loosely with some kitchen foil and leave to rest for 5 mins. 9. Carve and serve hot with yoghurt and mint sauce.
Yoghurt and mint sauce • • • • •
1 tub Greek yoghurt Handful fresh mint leaves ½ lemon, juice only 1 tbsp harissa Salt and pepper
Method
Combine all the ingredients together and serve with roasted lamb.
Suggested wine: Cavit - Quattro Vicariati Trentino Superiore DOC Deep and bright ruby red colour. Balmy nose with hints of plum, blackberry and tobacco. Well-balanced on the palate, with notes of green pepper and ripe red berries. It mellows with rich notes of fruit and soft tannins. Long and enticing finish of spices. Pairs well with strong flavoured pasta dishes, meats and ripe cheeses.
D
KS
O E CO
8
HOM
Chocolate orange torte with marmalade Ingredients • • • • • • • •
125g unsalted butter 250g dark chocolate 6 eggs 125g sugar 2 tbsp marmalade 1 orange, grated zest only 1 tbsp Cointreau (optional) Cocoa powder (for dusting)
For the marmalade cream • • •
250ml fresh cream 1 tbsp marmalade 1 tbsp Cointreau
Method
1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Butter the base and sides of a 23cm spring form cake tin, and line base with baking paper. 2. Place butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Leave until just melted. 3. Stir in marmalade and grated orange zest. Set aside to cool. 4. Beat egg yolks with sugar until pale and thick. 5. Gently fold them into chocolate mixture to combine. 6. Put egg whites in a clean mixing bowl and whip until they form soft peaks. 7. Beat a third of the whisked egg whites into the chocolate mixture to loosen it a little, then carefully fold in the rest until mixture is a uniform brown. 8. Pour into prepared tin and bake for 30 – 35 mins until cake is risen and cracked. The cake will sink in the middle which leaves plenty of room for the marmalade cream. 9. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for at least 15 mins, use a sharp knife to loosen the edges, then carefully take it out of the tin and peel off paper. Transfer it to serving plate. 10. To make the marmalade cream, whip the cream until firm. 11. Mix in the marmalade and Cointreau and gently fold through to create a ripple effect. 12. Fill the centre of the cake with marmalade cream, easing it out gently to the edges of the cake. Dust the top lightly with cocoa powder.
Make your own marmalade with Pippa Mattei’s recipe on page 27
gourmet today
March 2013
Trade Enquiries VJ Salomone Marketing tel: 8007 2387
March 2013
11
gourmet today
Traditional Easter fare
D
photography by ray attard
If practice makes perfect then its no wonder that Rita Diacono is the perfect cook. Out of the same kitchen her husband built with her father when she got married, she feeds her 12 children, 30 grandchildren and three great-grandchildren regularly as well as the numerous husbands, wives, boyfriends, girlfriends and hangers-on hoping to get a taste of her wholesome food. She shares some recipes which she regularly makes around Easter – a chicken soup, a leg of lamb stuffed with artichokes and a ricotta roulade with candied peel.
! # " $ !
March 2013
13
gourmet today
Chicken soup Ingredients
• • • • • • • • • •
2 carrots, diced 2 marrows, diced 1 onion, diced 2 potatoes, diced 2 chicken breasts 1 tin corn 2 eggs, beaten Boquet garni Salt and pepper Parmesan shavings, to serve
Method 1. Place the chicken and vegetable s in the pot and cover with water. 2. Boil for approx 1½ hours. 3. Remove the chicken from the pot and set aside. 4. Transfer the soup to the blen der and blend until smooth. If too thick add water. 5. Slice the chicken into fine matc hstick pieces. 6. Add the chicken pieces, the corn and the beaten eggs. 7. Garnish with Parmesan shavings, fresh black pepper and parsley and serve immediately.
D
BOV CARDS LOYALTY REWARDS PROGRAMME
now you can redeem your BOV points at Corinthia Hotels More value for you with the BOV Cards Loyalty Rewards Programme. Earn BOV points for every €1 you spend when using a BOV Visa Platinum Card, BOV Visa Gold Card or BOV Visa Flypass Business Card and now you can choose to redeem these points at the Corinthia Palace Hotel and Spa, the Corinthia Hotel St. George’s Bay or the Marina Hotel St. George’s Bay. Your success is our goal.
BOV CARDS LOYALTY REWARDS PROGRAMME 2131 2020 I bov.com
Terms and conditions apply.
Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c. 58, Zachary Street, Valletta VLT 1130 - Malta
March 2013
gourmet today
15
Leg of lamb stuffed with artichoke Ingredients • • • • • • • • •
1 leg of lamb, deboned ped finely 1 large artichoke, cooked and chop mbs dcru brea e 1 cup whit 1 cup Parmesan shavings 2 eggs, beaten with a little milk y chopped 1 cup fresh parsley and mint, finel 700ml red wine 2 tbsp carob syrup Salt and pepper
Method leg of lamb. 1. Tell your butcher to debone a thing together. every ng mixi by g fillin 2. Prepare the and roll trying to ure mixt the 3. Fill the leg of lamb with e. shap the keep toothpicks, skewers or 4. Hold it together using string, netting from the butcher. nate in the red wine and 5. Put in a roasting pan and mari carob syrup overnight. cover the dish in foil and 6. Pre-heat the oven to 190°C, . roast for ¾ hour n to the oven until it meat 7. Turn the lamb over and retur ook. overc to not ful care be colours, serve immediately with 8. Allow to rest for 5 mins and s of your choice. baby roast potatoes and vegetable
Sesame roasted new potatoes Ingredients • • • •
New potatoes Sesame seeds Oil Salt pepper
Method skins. 1. Blanche the potatoes with their oil. in 2. Peel them and coat plate and roll the 3. Place sesame seeds in a flat s. seed the potatoes in on with salt and 4. Place in an oven-proof dish seas ut 20 mins). (abo ed cook until bake and er pepp
DD
16
gourmet today
Easter sponge roulade Ingredients For the sponge • • • • •
4 eggs 4 tbsp flour, sifted 2 tbsp cornflour, sifted 1 lemon, grated zest only 2 tsp vanilla essence
• • • • • • • • • •
500g ricotta 4 tbsp sugar 2 tbsp glace cherries, chopped 2 tbsp candied peel 1 medium glass brandy Freshly grated nutmeg 1 pkt puff pastry, or filo pastry Honey Flaked almonds, roasted Icing sugar
For the filling
Method
eggs with the sugar 1. To make the sponge, beat the until light and fluffy. fold in the flour, 2. Using a wooden spoon, gradually la. cornflour, lemon and vanil cake tin at 180°C for 3. Bake in a greased and floured n and a skewer golde and risen 25 – 30 mins, until comes out dry. placed in the centre of the sponge to cool. 4. Turn onto a wire rack and allow the top and bottom 5. Split down the middle and place eproof paper greas of piece a on other each to next r. suga sprinkled with icing ta with sugar, 6. To make the filling, mix the ricot and leave in the peel ied cand and ies, cherr chopped fridge until required. the sponge and 7. To prepare the roulade, unroll eg. nutm d sprinkle with grate cover the sponge with 8. Sprinkle with brandy and then re. mixtu the ricotta 9. Roll to form a Swiss roll. re and place the 10. Roll out the pastry to form a squa e. centr Swiss roll in the edges. 11. Roll up the pastry securing the C until golden 200° at oven eated pre-h 12. Bake in a . brown, approx 20 mins flaked almonds 13. To serve coat with honey, top with r. suga icing and sprinkle with fresh whipped cream. 14. Serve warm with ice-cream or
The roulade freezes well before cooking. Freeze after step 11 and allow to thaw before cooking.
March 2013
March 2013
gourmet today
17
!"#$%&'%()$*&"+,,,
Y&"8'2E'*$'5)/+6-'&%+7'12)8-)&2'9&%'*':2+"8*%Z'#[5#%"#8:#'&9'*'+"9#'$"0#H ?"%#:$+Z'9%&0'!"#0&8$#='D":)#+"8'E$*%'!"#$%&%'()"$'&"+ &9'*"(+%"#(,-&(.'$/"0-/1'(2-31"#$"/1+ *8G',#E"G#8$'9:';+!"$%'(456-78$%($&B#$)#%'X"$)')"E'$#*0' X"++'S#'>&"8"8B'9&%:#E'$&'&99#%'2E'*'X"8#'5*"%#G' 0#82'$&'$#*E#'&2%'E#8E#E''' ,&-#%#$&' ()*$+,$+()*$
!"#$%&'()"*%+&' !"##$%$&'
(#%#12"&' !)-"#"
.#'/%0# !)-.'-)+,/012$
3"-&+#' 3"1%)2"+,/012$
4%*55*'6#%$*' 4#$1$
!""# PIEMONTE 7&%'0&%#'"89&%0*$"&8':&8$*:$';*<7%#8:='4)*>8'?*00*'@$%##$'A*B)%*=' 4&C&='D*+$#E#'FE+*8GE' ;H'IJKLMN'OP'LLK'QQQ'R'0&SH'TUVL'VTUV'R'7H'IJKLMN'OP'LMV'OTP "89&W$*9%#8:%#E$*2%*8$H:&0'R'XXXH$*9%#8:%#E$*2%*8$H:&0H
19
gourmet today
Pippa’s Spanish fiesta The highlight of my recent visit to Spain’s capital Madrid was the visit to Mercado de San Miguel just behind Plaza Mayor. Open till late in the evening, this market has stalls selling and serving all kinds of Spanish food, a seafood stall serving raw and deep fried seafood, a stall selling and tasting the wonderful Spanish jamon, a stall making and serving paella, also stalls with sangria, saffron, smoked paprika, chocolates, good coffee and of course Spanish chorizo. Of course I came back laden with goodies including glacé fruit for my Christmas baking!
D
photography by ray attard
March 2013
20
gourmet today
Salt cod puffs
(known in Malta as bakkaljaw) ahead You need to begin this recipe a day Serves 6
Ingredients • • • • • • • • •
500g salt cod 500ml milk 2 fresh bay leaves 80ml extra-virgin olive oil 75g plain flour (sifted) ½ lemon, finely grated zest only ½ tsp ground cumin 3 eggs Vegetable oil for deep frying
Method 24 hours 1. Soak the cod in cold water for changing the water four times a simmer in a pan 2. Bring milk and bay leaves to . over low-medium heat er (8-10 mins) 3. Add cod and cook until tend milk, flake cod, and s leave bay 4. Drain, discard discarding bones. finely shredded 5. Process in a food processor until and set aside. r to the boil in a 6. Bring olive oil and 200ml wate pan. in and stir over 7. Add flour, lemon zest and cum th (1-2 mins). smoo and thick until high heat at a time, one eggs add 8. Remove from heat, beating well between each addition. and set aside. 9. Add salt cod, mix to combine -fryer or large 10. Preheat vegetable oil in a deep °C. 190 to epan sauc deep elles using 2 11. Form salt cod mixture into quen until golden dessert spoons and fry in batches 20. t abou es Mak ). (8 - 10 mins verde. 12. Serve immediately with mayo
Mayo verde (green sauce) Ingredients
185ml extra-virgin olive oil ved, finely 3 green habanero chillis, seeds remo chopped finely chopped • 2 spring onions, white part only, ped chop y finel s, • 2 small garlic clove • 1tsp white wine vinegar • ¼ tsp ground cumin • ¼ tsp ground coriander
• •
Method bowl and season to 1. Combine all ingredients in a k pepper. blac nd grou ly fresh taste with 2. Refrigerate until required.
March 2013
March 2013
21
gourmet today
Paella For this you will need a large paella pan or similar pan used for risottos or a heavy based sauc epan Serves 6
Ingredients
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
6 chicken thighs cut into 2 pieces 12 fresh clams 12 fresh mussels 24 medium local prawns – shells removed 450g calamari, cleaned and chop ped into bite-sized pieces 1 large onion, chopped 4 cloves of garlic 110g pancetta 500g Calasparra (Spanish short grain rice) 170 g Spanish Chorizo 125 ml white wine 1 red sweet pepper, sliced 1 tsp dried chilli flakes Some fresh thyme leaves ¼ tsp saffron 1 tsp smoked paprika 4 large tomatoes, skinned and chop ped Handful of frozen peas (or green beans), cooked 5 tablespoons chopped fresh pars ley Good olive oil Salt and pepper
Method 1. Pre-heat oven to 180°C 2. Heat 4-5 tbsp olive oil in the paella pan dish or heavy-based saucepan. 3. When hot, cook the chicken pieces for 12-15 mins until golden brown all over. Remove and keep warm. 4. Add 2 cloves of chopped garli c to the pan, plus the chopped onion and cook until softe ned. 5. Add sliced chorizo and diced pancetta and cook until crisp. 6. Add sliced red pepper and cook a little further. 7. Add all the rice and mix until coated and glossy. 8. Add the dry white wine and let it bubble and evaporate. 9. Start adding the chicken stock mixing the saffron into a ladle of this. 10. Also add the dried chilli flake s and thyme leaves. 11. Season with salt and pepper and the smoked paprika. 12. Add the chopped tomatoes and mix altogether. By now all the chicken stock should have been added. 13. Mix well and then return the chicken pieces to the rice and cook all for 5-10 mins. 14. Meanwhile, add some olive oil to another frying pan, heat and add 2 extra cloves garlic. 15. Fry the prawns in this for one or two minutes then add them to the paella. Do the same for the calamari and when cooked add to paella too. 16. Finally add the clams and mus sels to the paella with the join facing down so that the edge s open outwards. 17. Put the pan with the paella into the pre-heated oven and leave for 15 mins till clams and mussels have opened up, take out of oven, sprin kle with chopped parsley and serve immediately.
D
Mokka at the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa Golden Sands is the perfect venue for meeting friends, grabbing a coffee or enjoying a freshly brewed tea. With a vast range of hot and cold drinks, savoury appetisers and treats as well as delicious desserts, it’s not only the perfect location for informal meetings but also a great spot to relax and catch up while enjoying scenic views of both countryside and the sea.
Opening hours: 9am-11pm
Island Hotels. Always Genuine.
ˑƬ#+( !*/ * /Ɓ%/( * $+0!(/Ɓ +)ɆƷɆǠŰŲųɆůŰŲųɆŭŬŬŬ radissonblu.com/goldensandsresort-malta facebook.com/RadissonGoldenSands
March 2013
23
gourmet today
Chur ros with hot chocolate sauce Serves 6
Ingredients
• 2 blood oranges, finely grate d rind and juice • 500ml water • 1 tsp salt • 1 tbsp olive oil • 275g ‘00’ plain flour • Vegetable oil for deep frying • 225g caster sugar • 2 tsp ground cinnamon
Hot chocolate sauce
• • • • •
250ml milk 180ml fresh pouring cream 60ml orange liqueur (Grand Marn ier) 2 blood oranges, rind only, removed with a peeler 250g dark chocolate (61% cocoa solids), finely chopped
Method 1. Make the hot chocolate sauc e by combining the milk, cream, liqueur and orange rind in a saucepan and bring to the simmer over low heat . 2. Cook for 5 mins to infuse, strai n into a clean pan. 3. Add chocolate and stir continuo usly over low heat until melted. Keep warm. 4. To make the churros combine orange rind, 100ml orange juice, olive oil, water and salt in a large saucepan and bring to the boil over medium-high heat. 5. Add flour, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon until dough is smooth (2-3 mins), then transfer to a piping bag with a 1cm-fluted nozz le. 6. Heat vegetable oil in a deep saucepan to 160°C. 7. Pipe 7cm long pieces of doug h into hot oil, using scissors to cut off each one (be very careful as hot oil may splash). 8. Fry, in batches, until golden (8-10 mins), drain on absorbent paper, toss in cinnamo n sugar and serve with hot chocolate.
Home-made Sangria Ingredients
• 3 parts red wine • 1 part orange juice • 2 parts lemonade • Ice • Fresh mint and lemons • Sliced fruit such as oranges
Method
in a large jug. 1. Mix all the ingredients together or lemonade juice ge oran , wine red 2. Add more gth. stren ed desir according to taste and ish with mint garn es, glass into pour and Chill 3. sprigs and fruit.
D
24
A feast of citrus fruit
Marmalades with Maltese oranges, lemons and tangerines My two dear aunts Jane and Cella would faithfully make marmalade every year. Their marmalade was excellent and I still find their recipe for the Seville orange marmalade the best as it gives a less bitter taste than some other marmalade recipes.
March 2013
gourmet today
Seville orange marmalade
You will need besides very freshly picked fruit, a large pot, a mouli-legume (sometimes called a passé-rapid) or colander, a piece of muslin and string, some empty jam jars, a little brandy, waxed discs (or greaseproof paper), some pretty cotton material and matching ribbon and labels (optional).
Ingredients
• • •
Sugar Seville oranges and lemons Water
Method
1. Weigh oranges and two lemons. 2. Measure 600g sugar to every 400g fruit. 3. Measure 850ml water to every 400g fruit and throw away 550 ml (for example 14 oranges and 2 lemons might weigh 1.6kg. Therefore you need 2.4kg sugar and 3 litres water). 4. In a very large pot, boil oranges and lemons in the measured water until very soft. 5. When cool, take the fruit out of the water (Leave the water in the pot), and cut the fruit into quarters. 6. Scoop out the pith and pips which you put into a mouli-legumes, or into a normal large colander, placed over a large bowl. 7. Chop all the skins finely and set aside. 8. Press the pulp and pith through the mouli or colander collecting the thick juice below. 9. Put this and the shredded skins into the pot with the water. Do not throw away the dry pith and pips left behind in the mouli or colander, but gather them and tie them into a square of muslin which you secure with string and tie onto the handle of your pot so that the ‘bundle’ hangs down into the mixture in the pot (This helps add pectin to your mixture which makes the marmalade set). 10. Put the pot onto a low flame and warm the mixture adding the sugar when warm and stir constantly until the sugar melts. 11. Now bring the mixture to a ‘rolling’ boil, and leave to boil for some time (maybe ¾ of an hour) stirring now and again, removing the scum that may rise to the top and watching it like a hawk. (Believe me you do not want it to boil over!) 12. Now to test when the marmalade has ‘set’, put a little onto a very cold saucer (put it in the freezer beforehand), and push the marmalade with your finger – if it crinkles and gels it is ready. You might have to test it several times till you are sure it is ready. Try not to miss gelling point (You can over boil). 13. Meanwhile, an easy way to sterilize the empty jam jars, is to wash them in hot water, and then put them in a VERY slow oven till dry and warm. Keep them there till your marmalade is ready. 14. Fill the warm jars with the marmalade. While still hot, put waxed discs (you can buy these ready or cut out circles with greaseproof paper), into a cup with some brandy and place the discs on top of the marmalade in each jar. Now either seal with the lids while hot or allow to get cold (do not close them when ‘warm’) and when you are sure the marmalade has set. If the marmalade does not set, boil it again and add a sachet of fruit pectin. Though this alters taste a little it but it will be fine. 15. Cut circles out of material to top the jars and secure with ribbon. Label with the date and leave in a cool place until needed.
Malta - Attard & Co. Foodstuffs Ltd. Tel: 21 237555 Gozo - Abraham!s Supplies Co. Ltd. Tel: 21 563231
March 2013
27
gourmet today
Tangerine marmalade
The previous owner of our house Michael Radcliffe, left behind his tangerine marmalade recipe which is also delicious. Makes approx 5 jars
Ingredients
• • • •
18 tangerines 6 lemons 2.7l water 1.2kg sugar
Method
1. Cut tangerines and 5 lemons in half – squeeze out juice. Remove centre membranes from both fruits and put this in a small basin with the pips and 250ml water. 2. Shred the tangerine peel very finely. Remove the rind from the extra lemon with a potato peeler and shred this also. Put the pith from this lemon into the small basin with the other pips and membranes. 3. Put the fruit juices, shredded peel and remaining water in a large basin and leave overnight. 4. The next day put the pips etc through a moulilegumes and press out the juice which you set aside. Gather the dry pips etc and put them into a muslin square tied into a bag. Set aside. 5. Now put the contents of the larger bowl (discard 250ml of this) into a large pot. Add the juices that you have pressed through the moulie. Tie the muslin bag with the pips onto the handle of the pot and hang the bag in the juice mixture. 6. Boil steadily for 1 hour. Remove the bag of pips, pressing it well against the inside of the pot to release any liquid and the pectin. 7. Warm the measured sugar in a bowl (in the oven) and add it to the liquid in the pot. Dissolve slowly, then boil rapidly until this sets when tested (see previous recipe). Skim well and pour into warm sterilized jars as in the Seville orange marmalade recipe.
Join us for an egg-stra special lunch with your loved ones this Easter. You will be able to choose from traditional lavish buffets at the Oceana Restaurant or Portomaso Suite Price starting from â&#x201A;Ź45 for adults and â&#x201A;Ź20 for children. Complimentary parking also available For Reservations please contact: Richard Webb or Euan Phillips on 21 383 383 or via e-mail on richard.webb@hilton.com / euan.phillips@hilton.com
29
gourmet today
Junior Cooks
Sweeten your Easter
Easter brings to mind images of chocolate eggs and indulgence in a variety of sweets made specially for the occassion. Laura and Christine Pillow, help out with the family business and get some of the tradtional figolli ready for the Easter rush at Lulu’s Café. But Easter doesn’t only have to be traditional – anything chocolatey with lots of colours goes perfectly well with the season. Try some of these delightful cake pops, easy to make and lots of fun, the sky is limit when it comes to decorating these tasty treats.
D
photography by Justine Navarro
March 2013
Junior Cooks
30
gourmet today
Easter figolli Makes 6
Ingredients
Pastry 350g sugar 800g plain flour sifted 400g margarine 1 lemon, zest only 4 egg yolks
Almond filling
600g sugar 1 lemon, zest only 600g pure ground almonds 3 egg whites Water Royal Icing, melted chocolate and Easter eggs to decorate
Method 1.
2.
3. 4. 5.
6. 7.
Mix sugar and sifted flour, then rub in the margarine. Add the grated zest and the yolks to make a dough, cover and leave to set in refrigerator for at least one hour. To prepare the almond filling, whisk the egg whites to form soft peaks, add sugar, lemon rind and almonds adding some water if mixture is too thick. Roll out the pastry (half a cm thick) and cut out different shapes with figolli cutters making sure that you have pairs. Place one shape on a baking tray and spread with the almond filling leaving the edges empty for sealing. Get the same pastry shape and place on top pressing down the edges to seal. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 180째C for approx 30 mins. When completely cool paint the figolli with royal icing or melted chocolate and then decorate with different coloured royal icing or melted chocolate and Easter eggs.
March 2013
31
gourmet today
Junior Cooks
March 2013
D
33
gourmet today
Cake pops Leftover cake crumbs? Why not turn them into the gorgeous cake pops or bake a cake especially for them. Easy to make, these cake pops will ensure you are the star of every party.
Ingredients • • • •
Plain vanilla, chocolate or any dry cake of your choice Buttercream (approx 1 cup) Good quality chocolate, melted Sprinkles, coloured sugar, coloured cake crumbs or any other cake decorations of your choice
Royal Icing, melted chocolate and Easter eggs to decorate
Method 1. 2. 3. 4.
5.
6. 7. 8.
Bake the cake and allow to cool completely. Crumble the cake finely with a food processor and put in a mixing bowl. Gradually add buttercream to the crumbs, you might not require a lot of buttercream depending on how moist your cake is so just add a little at a time. Keep mixing until you have a fudge like mixture which you can shape into a ball in the palm of your hands. From the mixture make out equal sized balls of about 30g each and freeze on a tray for about 30 mins. In the meantime melt good cooking chocolate bain-marie and prepare lolly pop sticks or skewers to stick into the half frozen balls. Make sure the chocolate heats slowly as heating too quickly will make the chocolate too thick. Take the balls out of the freezer and take a stick and insert it into the top centre of each cake ball about half way through. Don’t insert it too deep or too shallow. Dip the cake pop into the melted chocolate and gently tap it to remove any excess chocolate. Immediately decorate with sprinkles or sugar decorations of your choice before the chocolate starts to dry and then leave the cake pops in an upright position to dry completely.
For more information contact Lulu’s Café on 21 384498
Junior Cooks
March 2013
Why the World Loves Curry
Chicken with Sweet Mango Chutney
Ingredients:
1 tbsp vegetable oil 4 chicken breasts, diced 1 onion, chopped 4 tsp Patak’s Mild Curry Paste 6 tbsp water 115g canned chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp Patak’s Sweet Mango Chutney 1 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped
Method: r Heat the oil and fry the chicken until lightly browned. r Add the onions and fry for 2 minutes. r Add the Patak’s Mild Curry Paste, water and tomatoes, cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. r Stir in the Patak’s Sweet Mango Chutney and serve garnished with the chopped coriander and with Patak’s Pappadoms.
Ingredients: Marinade: 450g diced chicken 2 tbsp Patak’s Tandoori Curry Paste 2 tbsp thick plain yogurt 2 tsp garlic, crushed 1 tbsp vegetable oil
Butter Chicken Sauce: 2 tbsp vegetable oil 100g onions, diced 300g chopped tomatoes 100ml cream 2 tsp sugar 1 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped 100ml water 2 tbsp butter 2 tbsp Patak’s Tikka Masala Curry Paste salt, to taste
Method: First marinate the chicken:In a bowl mix together the yogurt, Patak’s Tandoori Curry Paste, vegetable oil and garlic. Add the diced chicken, cover and marinate in the refrigerator for approximately 2 hours (overnight would be ideal). Cook the chicken in a preheated oven 200°C/400°F/ as 6 for 25-30 mins or until cooked. Turn the chicken throughout cooking. For the Sauce: r Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy based pan and fry the diced onions for 5 minutes. Add the Patak’s Tikka Masala Curry Paste and continue to cook for a further 2 minutes. Sprinkle in some water if the paste begins to stick.
New small convenient jars!
r
Add the chopped tomatoes and butter. Add the water and sugar, cover and allow to cook for 20 minutes.
r
Add the cooked chicken to this sauce and cook for a few more minutes until the chicken is well coated in the sauce and warmed through. Stir in the cream and check the seasoning.
r
Garnish with fresh coriander.
10%nt
discou on spirits T: 2122 3999
36
gourmet today
Borges raisin whole wheat muffins (Pure olive oil) Serving size: 4 Cooking time: 30 minutes
Ingredients • • • • • • •
50g raisins 2 eggs 125g wholemeal 100g sugar Borges Pure Olive Oil ½ packet of backing powder Grated orange zest
Method:
1. Wash the raisons in water and let stand 5 minutes. 2. Dry the raisons and batter in wholemeal. 3. Whisk the eggs with the sugar, add the oil, continue to whisk and add mixture of flour with baking powder and grated orange zest. 4. When all is mixed, add the raisins, stir the mixture and let stand for half an hour. 5. Pre-heat the oven at 180oC and bake 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before removing from the mold.
find us on:
March 2013
March 2013
gourmet today
39
St Patrick’s Day is gaining popularity throughout the world and not only with the Irish. Though it is officially a religious holiday, St Patrick’s Day sees a lifting on fasting during Lent and allows for merrymaking through food and friendy conversation. Michael Gillen, an Irishman living in Malta for the last seven years makes a typical Irish meal using fresh ingredients that are readily available around his Gozo residence. Irish soda bread, slathered in Irish butter with Irish smoked salmon, venison on a bed of buttery mashed potatoes, all rounded off with a warm apple crumble.
D
photography by robert smith
Celebrating St Patrick’s Day
Easter Sunday Buffet Lunch €31.50 per Person €15.75 per Child (06 – 12 years) Including: Coffee and Limoncello Liqueur Children’s Buffet, Animation and Bouncing Castle For further information contact us on 2152 0923 or events@maritim.com.mt George Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha - Malta Website: www.maritim.com.mt
March 2013
41
gourmet today
Ruth’s brown soda bread (makes 1 loaf )
Ingredients
• •
400g stone-ground wholemeal flour 100g bran, wheatgerm and pinhead oatmeal (to make it coarser) • 1 tsp salt • 1-1½ level tsp bicarbonate of soda • 1 organic egg, plus 1 egg yolk • 1 tbsp olive oil • 425ml butter milk (or milk with about ¼ - ½ squeezed lemon) • 2 generous tbsp seeds (sunflowe r, pumpkin, sesame, poppy, linseed or others), optional
Method
1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C. 2. Put all dry ingredients – whol emeal flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt – into a large mixi ng bowl and combine. 3. Lightly whisk buttermilk, egg and oil in another bowl. 4. Grease and flour a loaf tin (23 x 12.5 x 5cm). 5. Make a well in the dry ingredien ts. 6. Pour about a third of the milk mixture into the well. 7. Mix the mixture with your hand until it begins to get sticky. Don’t over-mix as the doug h will become tough. 8. Add another third of the milk mixture and mix again. 9. Finally add the last third and mix. The dough is supposed to be wet and sticky, so much so that you can pour it into the loaf tin. 10. Once the mixture is in the loaf tin, place it in the oven on the middle shelf for 45 mins to 1 hr. 11. Once the bread is nicely brow n, and sounds hollow when tapped, remove from the tin and leave it to cool completely on a wire rack before cutting.
Irish smoked salmon on Irish brown soda bread Serves 4
Ingredients
• 4 slices Irish brown soda brea d, buttered • 125g Irish smoked salmon or smoked trout • Crème fraîche • Capers or caper berries • Fresh lemon • Black pepper
Method 1. Cut each slice of Irish brown soda bread into 2 halves. 2. Generously butter with Kerrygold . 3. Take smoked salmon and top each slice of bread with a fold of salmon. 4. Season with a little freshly grou nd black pepper, then top each with a little crème fraîche, capers and a squeeze of lemon to serve.
D
March 2013
43
gourmet today
a bed of Irish mash Panfried venison loin on ne sauce with a juniper and red wi Serves 4
Ingredients For the mash •
• • •
s Piper or King 500g floury potatoes, such as Mari ks chun into cut and Edward, peeled Large knob of Kerrygold butter 100ml full-fat milk er Salt and freshly ground black pepp
For the venison • • •
16 juniper berries trimmed 1 x 250g loin of venison sliced and oil 1 tbsp olive
For the sauce • •
Large knob of Kerrygold butter A glass of good red wine
Method
toes together in 1. To make the mash, boil the pota r for about 15 wate d salte ng, boili of pan a large mins, or until tender. in the pan and 2. Drain thoroughly then tip back te to dry off any minu a for heat place over a low excess moisture. r and milk and 3. Mash thoroughly with the butte ly ground fresh and salt season to taste with black pepper. Keep warm. over a medium4. Heat a heavy-based frying pan sear for 1-2 high heat then add the venison and ook! overc not Do side. each on minutes, to rest on a 5. Remove from the pan and leave warm plate in your oven. butter in the pan to 6. To make the sauce, melt the deglaze the sauce. red wine. Increase 7. Add a generous glass of good reduced in volume until boil the heat to high and by half. al dente. 8. Prepare the vegetables until warm serving 9. To serve, spoon the mash onto Spoon over on. venis the with top and plates and green ts carro the some sauce and serve beans alongside.
D
VENITIAN VA L U E S
Masi Expertise Appaxximento certifies Masiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expertise in this technique in the XXI century. Masi is an historic producer, open to innovation, and has re-interpreted appassimento with modernity and originality both to make its five Amarone and three Recioto wines using â&#x20AC;&#x153;100% semi-dried grapesâ&#x20AC;? and to give character to a series of â&#x20AC;&#x153;double fermentationâ&#x20AC;? wines, the most emblematic of which is Campofiorin
! !! !" ! $ # % " !
March 2013
45
gourmet today
Veronica’s apple cr umble Ingredients
• • • • •
700g cooking apples (or Granny Smit h) 3 tbsp granulated sugar 150ml water Ground cinnamon Whole cloves
For the crumble
• • • •
140g plain white flour Pinch of salt 50g caster sugar 100g butter
Method
1. Pre-heat the oven to 190°C. 2. Peel and core the apples, slice them into a saucepan, add the sugar, water, a couple of pinches of ground cinnamon and some whole cloves, then cover and simmer gently until tender. 3. To make the topping sift the flour with the salt, stir in the caster sugar and then 4. Add the butter, cutting it into the mixture with a pallet knife. When the pieces of butte r are quite small continue to rub them in with your fingers. 5. Spoon the stewed apples into a pie dish, cover with the topping and a couple of smal l pieces of butter on the topping to give that extra butte ry taste! 6. Bake in the oven for 25-30 minu tes until crisp and golden-brown. 7. Serve with a generous scoop of whipped cream or your favourite ice-cream.
March 2013
gourmet today
47
Win a hamper of Irish products on St Patrick’s Day To celebrate St Patrick’s Day we are giving away a hamper full on Irish goodies in collaboration with the Irish Embassy and the Irish Food Board. www.bordbia.ie
To win this hamper simply answer the questions and send to gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt before 24 March.
Which actress appears in the Origin Green advert? For answer visit www.origingreen.ie
What solo stringed instrument is featured in the Culture Connects video on Youtube? For answer visit http://tinyurl.com/b5z3gw6
For more info visit www.ireland.com
The hamper inclu des:
• Durrus Farm ho • Knockanore use Cheese Mature Oakwood Smoked Cheddar • Cashel Blue Cheese Irish Farmhouse Cheese • Sheridans C he • Gubbeen Sm esemonger Coolea Extra Mature Gouda ok • Gubbeen Sm ehouse Salami okehouse Chorizo • Mcgeough’s Air-dried Lamb • Sheridans C he • Sheridans C esemongers Mixed Seed Cracker s he • Carhy’s Spe esemongers Irish Brown Bread C lt rackers • Macroom Sto ne • Macroom Sto -ground Wholemeal Flour ne-ground Oatm ea • Sheridans C heesemongers O l nion Marmalade • Sheridans C he • Janet’s Cou esemongers Chutney for Cheese ntry Fayre Cucum ber Pickle • Ed Hick’s B acon Jam • Ballymaloe Ori • Lily O’Brien ginal Country Relish ’s Luxury Chocola te Collection • Mella’s Butte r Fudge
photography by Ray Attard
This fantastic hamper includes some of Ireland’s very best products from delicious cheeses to dried meats, flours, crackers, and an assortment of relishes to help celebrate St Patrick’s Day.
48
gourmet today
March 2013
Flavours of Veneto
Great wine, it’s said, is grown in the vineyard, not made in the cellar. Wise words. Poor grapes, like bad ingredients in a recipe, tend to compromise the final product. It’s a tidy truth, but it’s by no means gospel. When winemakers trot out that old chestnut, I think By John zahra of the exceptions. Champagne is a prime example. Cool climates such as Champagne’s yield miserably unripe grapes. It’s hard to make good table wine that far north in France, yet it’s precisely those tart, teeth-corroding grapes that form the basis for blissful bubbly - thanks to aggressive intervention in the cellar. The still-wine world has its exceptions, too. Few winemakers know this better than the Venetians. Veneto
is among the foremost wine-producing regions, both for quality and quantity. The region counts over 20 DOC zones and a variety of sub-categories, many of its wines, both dry and sparkling, are internationally known and appreciated. The three most well known DOCs are Bardolino, from the town with the same name and surrounding the shores of Garda Lake, Valpolicella, and Soave. Other noteworthy wines produced here are the white Bianco di Custoza, the excellent sparkling Prosecco, the Breganze, and the Amarone (a rich and powerful red from the Verona province). If you travel to the Treviso area, look for the little-known Clinton, a wine that is banned from distribution because it does not conform to the DOC standards, but is produced in limited quantities for local consumption. The importance of winemaking in this region is underscored by the creation in 1885 of the very first Ital-
ian school for vine growing and oenology. In addition, Veneto was the first region to constitute the first ‘strada del vino’ or ‘wine road’. This first wine-touring road featured special road signs providing information on vines and the wines they were made into and joined the now well-known Valdobbiadene and Conegliano DOC zones crossing a series of hilly vineyards. The most appreciated wines in the region come from the provinces of Treviso, Verona, Padova, Venice, and Vicenza. The area around Verona, with its temperate climate and hilly surrounding, is believed to have cultivated grapes since the Bronze Age. The wines from the hills above Verona dominate the wine scene in the Veneto region. This region has 20 recognised zones for production, with grapes including Corvina, Rondinella, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon (reds); and Garganega, Vespaiolo, Pinot Bianco (whites).
March 2013 Some of the key areas in the Veneto wine region include: Amarone - is turbocharged Valpolicella. Grapes are laid out to dry for three or four months after harvest. This reduces water concentration by about half and concentrates sugars prior to fermentation, yielding powerful, dense wines, typically with 15-per-cent alcohol. Though dry, Amarone’s flavours are similar to those of sweet port wine, often raisin or prune-like, with complementary nuances of dark chocolate, tobacco leaf and fig. Bardolino - this area is on the southeast shores of Lake Garda and produces light, soft reds. Read More.... Bianco di Custoza - south of Lake Garda, this area produces easy-drinking whites. Prosecco di Valdobbiadene & Conegliano - as the names indicate, this area near Treviso produces the nowfamous sparkling white wine Prosecco. These wines have recently been upgraded to DOCG status, the top quality level in Italian wine. Valpolicella - north of Verona and arguably the most famous red wine in the Veneto region, this area produces wines with a fragrant but tangy cherry flavour, the tanginess attributed to the soils in the area. This region also produces the prestigious Amarone - one of the world’s most intensely flavoured dry red wines made with semidried grapes in a tradition that dates back to the Byzantine period. Ripasso - a sort of baby Amarone has become popular of late. It’s made with grapes dried for a shorter period or by mixing leftover pomade from Amarone back in with regular Valpolicella, providing an additional food source for the yeast. The technique adds texture and flavour and gooses up the alcohol content to yield a fuller wine. Soave - this area produces dry, crispy, fruity white wines; east of Verona. The cuisine of Veneto Almost every Italian experience is made better by food and the wines of Veneto are no exception. Home to carpaccio, tiramisu and pandoro, the Veneto region provides a corner of the world that is heaven to the taste buds in both wine and food. Veneto cuisine has influences from around the world. The dishes are known as exotic and exciting by many. From seafood and livestock to produce
49
gourmet today
from lush gardens, the Veneto cuisine is widely varied. Radicchio rosso is prized for its use in rice dishes, grilled as a vegetable, cooked into soups or eaten raw in salads. The white asparagus and olive oil in Veneto are also very high quality. Rice is the preferred starchy food in Veneto. The primary use for rice is risotto. Vegetables, meat, seafood and herbs are used in many combinations to create limitless dishes. Some options for Veneto recipes include risi e bisi, rice cooked with pork and fresh peas, seasoned with onions and served with grated Grana Padano, and risotto primavera, a selection of spring vegetables and rice. More exotic choices are risi in cavroman, a cinnamon scented mutton and rice dish, or risotto con i bruscàndoli, rice made with wild hop shoots. Pasta like paparele, similar to tagliatelle, is enjoyed with meaty sauces in Veneto cooking. Cassunziei, filled pasta, usually contains ricotta cheese and vegetables, and is topped with melted butter, grated cheese and poppy seeds. Veneto recipes often call for seafood, such as prawns, crabs, clams, mussels, scallops, octopus, sea snails, and many kinds of fish, to mention but two classics; spider crabs are boiled, then mashed with fresh parsley and seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice and pepper before placing in the empty shell to serve. The Baccalà alla Vicentina takes salt cod and cooks it with anchovies, Grana Padano cheese and onions in milk. Risotto nero is a creamy black rice dish made with cuttlefish ink. Freshwater fish are also enjoyed frequently, also. Carpione, or freshwater salmon trout, and bisati, the fresh water eels are popular in Veneto cuisine. Pork is cured to make salami known as soppressa or soppressata and sausages, including cotechino, made with ground pork rind, fat and scraps of meat. Beef and horsemeat are used as food in Veneto cooking. Pastissada de caval stews either meat in red wine until tender. The famous dish carpaccio originated in Veneto, where the paper-thin slices of beef were traditionally served with a mustard and Worcestershire flavoured mayonnaise. Veal liver, fegato alla veneziana, is sautéed with onions and flavoured with sage, parsley and a touch of red wine or vinegar in a combination of oil and butter. Food in the Veneto often features poultry. Turkey may be cooked with pomegranate. Duck offal and vegetables are made into an herb-flavoured sauce. This sauce is served over bigoli, a long tube shaped noodle traditionally made with buckwheat or whole wheat flour and duck eggs. Young chickens are braised with veal, rice and
vegetables to make risotto alla sbirraglia. Game birds can be presented with peverade, a piquant sauce made with salami, anchovies, chicken livers, garlic, oil and vinegar. Pigeons are often prepared in Veneto cooking. Sopa coada, sautées pigeons and vegetables in a herb and wine broth. This meat is then boned and placed in casserole dishes with broth underneath sliced bread topped with Grana Padano and baked. Wood pigeon and mushrooms are stewed and layered with polenta and baked to make the homey pie known as pasticcio di polenta. The most well known of sweet Veneto recipes is tiramisù, a dessert that layers espresso dipped ladyfinger cookies with a marsala or rum flavoured cream filling made with mascarpone cheese and beaten eggs. Another famous sweet is the Pandoro cake generally made for Christmas.
Food specialities of the region Fresh & Cured Meats: Sopressa Vicentina PDO, Prosciutto Veneto Berico-Euganeo PDO, Cotechino di Modena PGI, Mortadella Bologna PGI, Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO, Zampone di Modena PGI Vegetables: Radicchio Variegato di Castelfranco PGI, Asparago bianco di Cimadolmo PGI, Fagiolo di Lamon della Vallata Bellunese PGI, Radicchio Rosso di Treviso PGI Cheeses: Asiago PDO, Grana Padano PDO, Montasio PDO, Monte Veronese PDO, Taleggio PDO, Provolone Val Padana PDO Rice: Riso Nano Vialone Veronese PGI Fruits: Ciliegia di Marostica PGI, Marrone di San Zeno PDO John Zahra is a Food and Beverage Lecturer at the Institute of Tourism Studies. For more information contact john.m.zahra@gov.mt
!"#$%&'()*'+,-+##)."/'#
0/)1/'23'$4'5)4('+#1(')6(%7)8+-"6%(/"+
!"#$"%&%'$$"()%*%+,-%.,,)/$011/%2$)-%%34#5%67%689:::%%&%;,<,%&%'=(">"?@/%A0BB#C4/%+,-%2$)-%%34#5%67%:D8687
March 2013
51
gourmet today
Just like nanna used to make Pan fried liver with sage and onions Ingredients Michael Diacono
M
ost people of my age remember trips to the grandparents where we were served food from another age. Cooks then, and it really is not that long ago, were not so health conscious and cooking methods then might raise a few eyebrows today. The use of fats was more liberal whilst frying in lard was the norm. I remember that my mum always had a bowl of dripping in the fridge ready for use. The ingredients used were different too, and one of the casualties of time is offal, which is such a pity. It is true that we are seeing a revival of slow cooking with a few amendments to suit a more healthy diet, but I find that the inclusion of offal is still lacking. I am giving two recipes here for simple recipes using liver and tongue. Liver is quite straightforward whilst tongue might be a bit more daunting. What is true is that both are delicious.
• • • •
500g sliced fresh liver Seasoned flour to dust Butter to fry 1 large onion, peeled and sliced • 8 sage leaves • Salt and pepper • 1 glass dry red wine
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Melt some butter in a large pan. Coat the liver lightly in the seasoned flour and place into the pan. Add the onions and sage. Season and fry for a few minutes on both sides till browned. Add the wine and reduce over a high flame. Do not over cook as liver does tend to be a bit dry if overdone.
MODELLO ROSSO
Stewed tongue Ingredients • 1 ox tongue • 2 onions, peeled and chopped • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped • Oil to fry
• 4 carrots, peeled and chopped • 2 tins tomato sauce • 1 tbsp sugar • Salt and pepper • 3 bay leaves
Michael Diacono is chef patron at Giuseppi’s in Mellieha and Rubino in Valletta. Please call him on 99493579 regarding functions over the festive season.
1. Boil the tongue for 2 hours on a low heat in lightly salted water. (Be careful that the water does not dry out). 2. Cool slightly then when still warm peel away the skin from the tongue which some come off very easily. 3. Slice the meat and put aside. 4. Heat some oil in a large pot and add the onions and garlic.
5. Stir-fry till softened then add the carrots. 6. Add the tomatoes, sugar and season well. 7. Add the bay leaves. 8. When the sauce starts to simmer add the sliced tongue. 9. Cover the pot and leave to simmer gently for 30 minutes. 10. Check seasoning. You may also add some potatoes to stew.
PRINCIPATO CAB/MERLOT
photography by Photocity
Method
52
March 2013
gourmet today
Eat your beets
Natural red velvet beetroot cupcakes Beetroot was originally used to give colour to these now popular cakes. This healthy recipe replaces the artificial red food colouring that is normally used, with fresh beetroot. The rich red colour comes from fresh beetroot (which was originally the idea anyway), coupled with fresh or frozen cranberries - which you may substitute with raspberries or strawberries if you prefer and the result is a delicious, reddish (though not as vibrant), moist red velvet cake. Makes about 15 cupcakes
Ingredients
By Gaby Holland
L
ove them or hate them, the beetroot is an acquired taste. Many dislike them because they associate them with the shop-bought harsh, vinegary, pickled version, which is enough to put people off beetroot for life. But fresh beetroot with its sweet, slightly earthy flavour is jam packed with nutrients and health benefits. It is versatile and adds a dramatic splash of colour to any dish. The round shaped beetroot, as we know it today evolved from the botanically known Beta vulgaris and the root was long and thin like a carrot. It is grown in the ground and is related to turnips, swedes and sugar beet. In early times the root was mostly used for its medicinal properties to treat various ailments including fevers, wounds, stomach related ailments, skin
Fun facts
Buttermilk
Messy business:
The Elizabethans prepared beetroot by wiping it with fresh dung before cooking it
Nature’s Viagra:
One of the earliest known benefits of beetroot is its use as an aphrodisiac during the Roman times. And it wasn’t all folklore as it has been found to contain high amounts of boron, which is directly related to the production of human sex hormones.
Litmus test:
problems and also used as an aphrodisiac. The beetroot gained popularity in Central and Eastern Europe where the famous beetroot soup, know as borscht originated. During Victorian times the dramatic coloured vegetable brightened up salads and soups and used as a sweet ingredient in cakes and puddings. The dark red vegetable may be boiled, roasted, juiced, peeled and grated raw into salads or added to bake indulgent cakes. It contains potassium, magnesium, iron, vitamins A, B6 and C, folic acid, carbohydrates, protein, antioxidants and soluble fibre. It lowers blood pressure (when high), contains a potent anticancer compound and has powerful antioxidant properties. Today the humble beetroot has become a trendy vegetable featured in recipes by top chefs.
You can use beetroot juice to measure acidity. When added to an acidic solution it turns pink, but when it is added to an alkali it turns yellow.
Ingredients • ½ tbsp vinegar • ½ cup milk
Method 1. Pour the vinegar into a cup and fill with milk until the ½ cup mark. 2. Leave for 10 mins at room temperature. 3. The result will look like curdled milk.
• 1 large beetroot grated to make up ½ cup • 1/3 cup cranberries, raspberries or strawberries • 1 tbsp vinegar • 2 tbsp lemon juice • ½ cup buttermilk (see recipe below) • ½ cup butter, room temperature
• • • • • •
1 cup sugar 2 eggs Pinch of salt 1 tsp of baking powder 1 tbsp cocoa powder 2 tsp good quality vanilla extract • 1 cup of self-raising flour (you may need a little more)
Method 1. Preheat the oven to 170°C. 2. In a food processor blitz the beetroot and the berries, add the vinegar, lemon juice and buttermilk and blend well until smooth. 3. In a large mixing bowl use an electric whisk to beat the butter and sugar. 4. Add the eggs, one at a time until smooth. 5. Add the salt, baking powder and cocoa and combine well. 6. Fold in the flour and mix in the beetroot puree a little at a time. After adding most of it check for consistency of the batter and add some more flour if necessary (up to ¼ cup extra). 7. Use the batter as soon as possible as leaving it out for too long may cause the beetroot to oxidize and turn the red pigment to brown after baking. 8. Fill the cupcake liners until two-thirds full and bake in the preheated oven for 18 - 23 minutes, or until the sponge bounces back when touched. Over baking could also make the cupcakes more brown than red. 9. Cool and frost to your liking.
Ricotta and cream cheese frosting Ingredients
Method
• • • • •
1. Beat the ricotta and cream cheese until the mixture is well blended. 2. Add honey and vanilla and the sugar, a little at a time, until the frosting is light and fluffy. 3. Pipe the frosting to your liking.
150g ricotta 150g cream cheese 1 tbsp honey 100g icing sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract
Taâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Gorg ir-Ragel Ftira base topped with potatoes, pork belly strips, sheep cheeselet, green fava beans, rosemarie and eggs.
Real Baking. . as it was.. as it should be! Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 11pm Sunday from 11am to 4pm Monday closed
Nenu The Artisan Baker
Taâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Karmnu l- Bidija Ftira base topped with tomatoes, onions, marrows, green peppers, aubergines, marjoram - cheeselets on request.
143, St. Domenic Street, Valletta VLT1605 Email: info@nenuthebaker.com www.nenuthebaker.com
Tel: +356 2258 1535
54
March 2013
gourmet today
Mouton Cadet named official supplier of Wine to the Ryder Cup for 2014 and 2018 José María Olazábal, who captained Europe to a remarkable Ryder Cup victory in the ‘Miracle at Medinah’ last year, has attended a special reception at Château Mouton Rothschild with the famous gold trophy in celebration of that acclaimed success. Mouton Cadet joins an august family of Ryder Cup sponsors and Hugues Lechanoine, Managing Director of Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, commented: “In 1930, just three years after the first Ryder Cup was played, Mouton Cadet was created by the Baron Philippe de Rothschild. I am thrilled to see that almost a century later we share, under the same etiquette, the values of tradition, elegance, conviviality and respect. José María has made us a real honor to bring
the Ryder Cup for everyone to admire. We share the same passions – a love of golf and fine wines – and we look forward to an exciting and fruitful partnership.” Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA has two distinct lines of business: Premium wines and Branded wines. On the one hand, the Company manages in Pauillac three estates -owned by Baroness Philippine and her children, including the famous Château Mouton Rothschild. On the other hand, Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA also produces and distributes high quality branded wines such as Mouton Cadet, the world’s leading Bordeaux AOC wine. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd.,Valley Road, B’Kara TEL 2144 4400
San Pellegrino & Acqua Panna partnership with Andreas Larsson World Best Sommelier S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, are pleased to announce the renewal for 2013 of the partnership with Andreas Larsson 2007 Best Sommelier of the World! The first appointment with Andreas took place in UAE in both Dubai and Abu Dhabi where he gave to expert community, food & beverage managers and final consumers a unique opportunity to experience how to harmonize natural mineral waters with fine wines and food. Water & wine tastings, water & water blind tastings, water & wine & food harmonization and informal dinners with customers and press have been some of the activities that Andreas performed during the Abu Dhabi Gourmet, the star event of the
Middle East Culinary world that took place in February and that Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino have been the proud sponsors of for the fifth year in a row. It was a great occasion for the Italian premium brands to confirm their outstanding quality and their dedication to fine dining in the Arabic countries as well as an excellent opportunity to introduce the Sanpellegrino Sparking Fruit Beverages, a brand new product for the market. Education about water is a pillar to develop our brands, take advantage of Andreas’ expertise and book the next session! Imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Valley Road, B’Kara. TEL: 2144 4400
March 2013
55
gourmet today
As we prepare the change to summer time and start to look forward to the coming summer every female – and a few males – start to worry about bikini season not too far away. Most diets now tell you to eat more small meals or include protein-rich snacks in your diet but when you’re battling against the clock it isn’t always easy to be eating the right stuff. A few simple ideas can make healthy snacking a lot more exciting and what’s more is that they are easy to prepare so you can easily get them ready the night before and have something to look forward to for elevenses.
D
photography by ray attard
Keep hunger locked up till lunch
March 2013
57
gourmet today
Edamame and cranberries Preparation time: 30 mins Calories: 250 Protein: 13.3 Carbohydrates: 45g Fat: 2.7 Makes 4 servings
Ingredients • • • •
1 cup frozen edamame, shelled ½ cup cranberries 1 tsp olive oil Sea salt
Method
1. Add the olive oil and salt to the edamame beans and roast in a preheated oven at 200°C for 20 – 25 mins. 2. Allow to cool and mix with cranberries.
Apricot and nut bars Preparation time: 30 mins Calories: 110 Protein: 3g Carbohydrates: 24g Fat: 4.5g
Ingredients • • • • • •
1½ cups dried apricots ½ cup walnuts 2 tbsp shredded coconut ½ lemon, juice only 1 tsp coarse salt Dark chocolate, to drizzle (optional)
Method
1. Pulse the apricots, nuts, coconut, salt and lemon juice in a food processor. 2. Line a tin with greaseproof paper and press the mixture down. 3. Place in the fridge for 30 mins. 4. Remove from the fridge and cut into 6 bars. 5. Melt the chocolate and drizzle over the top.
D
58
March 2013
gourmet today
Peanut butter stuffed apples Preparation time: 30 mins Calories: 150 Protein: 7.5g Carbohydrates: 23g Fat: 9g
Ingredients • • •
1 apple 2 tsp peanut butter Handful rolled oats or granola
Method
1. Cut the apple in half and core. 2. Spoon a tsp peanut butter into the hole left by the core. 3. Sprinkle with oats or granola.
Dark chocolate and nut clusters Preparation time: 30 mins Calories: 150 Protein: 3g Carbohydrates: 12g Fat: 10g Makes approx 30
Ingredients • •
1 cup dark chocolate 1 ½ whole almonds
Method
1. Melt the chocolate slowly over a pot of simmering water. 2. Place a tsp of chocolate on greaseproof paper. 3. Top with a few almonds and another tsp of melted chocolate. 4. Allow to set in the fridge.
March 2013
59
gourmet today
Savoury yoghurt with veggies Preparation time: 30 mins Calories: 145 Protein: 4.5g Carbohydrates: 6.6g Fat: 11g Makes approx 30
Ingredients • • • •
1 tub Greek yoghurt 1 tsp dried oregano ½ lemon, juice plus 1 tsp zest Salt and pepper
Method
1. Mix all the ingredients together and serve with veggie sticks (carrots, peppers, cauliflower etc)
Hummus with veggie sticks Preparation time: 30 mins Calories: 106 Protein: 3g Carbohydrates: 12g Fat: 5g Makes 4 servings
Ingredients • • • • • • • •
1 tin chick peas 1 ½ tbsp tahini paste 1 tsp chilli flakes ½ lemon, juice only 2 tsp cumin 2 cloves garlic Olive oil Salt and pepper
Method
1. Put all ingredients in food processor except the oil. 2. Blitz and add oil until you achieve the right consistency. 3. Serve with carrot sticks or any other vegetables.
60
March 2013
gourmet today - events
events
Gourmet 100 Best Recipes cookbook launch Gourmet 100 Best Recipes cookbook was launched at The Arches on 12 December 2012. A compilation of the best recipes featured in Gourmet Today magazine. It is now on sale from all leading bookstores.
Gaby Holland and Sandra Dimech
Becky Attard, Katrina Attard and Kathleen Attard
Chrys Mangion
Joseph Meli, Doreen Grech, Ray Falzon and Kevin Grech
Mariella Dimech
Rachel Zammit Cutajar and Saviour Balzan
Gourmet Today recipe index Starters Kusksu pasta bake............................................5 Chicken and corn soup.................................13 Deep fried salted cod....................................20 Smoked salmon on soda bread..................41 Mains Butterflied Moroccan lamb...........................6 Lamb stuffed with artichokes.....................15 Spanish paella..................................................21 Venison with juniper berries.......................43 Liver with onions and sage..........................51 Stewed tongue.................................................51 Dessert Chocolate and marmalade torte..................8 Easter roulade..................................................16 Churros with chocolate sauce....................23 Apple crumble.................................................41 Red velvet beetroot cupcakes.....................55
Teatime Seville orange marmalade............................24 Tangerine marmalade...................................27 Easter figolli......................................................30 Cake pops.........................................................33 Irish brown soda bread.................................41
A Member of
There is a pla ce. li ke no pla ce on ear th. The Madhatter
Grand Hotel Excelsior is the place to be this Easter as it will be transformed into the magical world of Alice in Wonderland. Alice and the Mad Hatter is inviting you to enjoy a sumptuous Easter Sunday buffet lunch with your loved ones, whilst enjoying the spectacular views of Marsamxett Harbour. Feast on a mouth-watering spread of dishes from all corners of the globe in addition to the all time favourite, the traditional lamb carvery. Expect the unexpected in Wonderland. For the little ones there will be the chance to hop on the Easter Egg Trail and discover the White Rabbit as he rushes through the Excelsior Gardens to meet Alice and her friends. For more information and bookings please call 21250520 or email food.beverage@excelsior.com.mt
www.excelsior.com.mt
Now that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve set the date for your big day, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got one thing left... Our Congratulations! James Caterers is an established market leader in event catering, specialising in weddings, outside catering & private functions.
Velleran Street, Fgura / Tel: 2189 6290 / Web: www.james-caterers.com / eMail: events@james-caterers.com