The Menlook Tribune #3 (English) by Menlook.com

spring

su m m e r 2 0 1 3

The

menlook T r i b un e

T H E J O U R N A L f o r ME N O F S T Y L E ( S ) one man, one style

charlie le mindu Hairdresser to the stars, artist, and fashion designer, Charlie Le Mindu is our Frenchie in London. In his apartment located in the trendy Shoreditch neighbourhood, the visionary designer invited us to discover his wild universe. page 18

inspirations

lonely sailor A fashion story shot in Deauville, a composure and hedonism-fuelled wandering. It’s the story of a modern-day Corto Maltese, the story of an agreeable loneliness on the beaches of Normandy. Unaffected by the passing of time, this pause is punctuated with poetry and brutality. page 20 fashion and politics

the confessions of

rama yade

Why are politicians’ wardrobes always monotonous, grey, and boring? Clothes don’t make the man, so why do they make the minister? We met Rama Yade for a tell-all interview. page 34

motor

page 40

watch out

€ 1 , 5 0 – T H I S I S S U E I S O FFERED BY ME N LO O K .C O M

page 41

food

page 42

backstage

page 44

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editorial

the editor’s letter

rints are the new way to fight depression. Bring in some lightness! Why is there such a surfeit of childish patterns in our wardrobes? Why do people need to flaunt their animal print sweat-shirts. Why is camouflage back? Are we soldiers? What are we fighting? Do we want to resist? Resist what? Life goes on and insists on making us feel gloomy. Prints are a way to thumb one’s nose at morosity... Prints are the new black. A fashion alternative to light therapy, neon colours also act as a welcome blowoff valve. Because life should be agreeable, in 2013, you’ll have to think pink... neon pink. In those changing times, clothes allow us to flaunt our enthusiasm and a positive mood. This year’s trends have proved that prints express our general mood. Flowery when Liberty invaded wardrobes, hesitant when neon hues teamed up with pastel tones, colour-bloking went wild. We just cannot make a choice. Let’s opt for total freedom.

Marc ménasé Founder of Menlook.com

Receive the next issues of The Menlook Tribune by subscribing at the following address: http://tribune.menlook.co.uk/subscribe-print/

C.E.O. Marc Ménasé

Editor-in-Chief Monia Kashmire

Communications Manager Chloé Marengo

Editors Sarah Drenca, Charles Marius Thélu

Publishing Director Pierre-Etienne Boilard

Translator Stéphane Gaboué

The Menlook Tribune is produced by MenInvest: Simplified Stock Company with a capital of €1 287 728 Siret 514 035 534 00023 11, rue Paul Lelong, 75002 Paris, France Tél. +33 (0)1 76 21 03 31 Copyright upon publication.

Publisher Christophe Sengthong Advertising Manager Jean-Baptiste Vo

Artistic Direction and graphic design Julie Pech-Laveau

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contents

contents The “Mode in France” issue

page 3 The Editor’s Letter by Marc Ménasé page 7 News page 12 Web: The best from Tribune.Menlook.com page 14 The Carven saga: History of a rebirth page 17 Iconic product: The Lacoste poloshirt turns 80 page 18 Man of style(s): Charlie Le Mindu’s hairitage page 20 Fashion: Lonely sailor page 30 Portrait: Jérémie Elkaïm, a Parisian gent page 34 Woman of the moment: Rama Yade fashion confessions page 37 Fragrances: Green gold page 38 Adam Ikx’ column: Save French cinema page 39 Eric Maggiori’s column: Beckham overwhelms PSG page 40 Report: Lazy Riders page 41 Timefy: It is time for minimalism page 42 Food: Meatology page 44 Crazy Horse: Lust in translation

page 46 Travel: Saint-Tropez

40 Contributors

ADAM IKX

AXL JANSEN

PAPS TOURé

NIKOLA DERRSTROFF

ERIC MAGGIORI

JULIEN COZZOLINO

Adam Ikx, 35, has written for GQ, Première, and Studio, and shown his bohemian-alcoholic face on the TV channels Canal + and CinéCinéma. For The Menlook Tribune, he worries about the French film industry and raises controversial questions.

Born in Germany, Axl Jensen studied philosophy and design before branching into fashion photography. He has notably shot campaigns for Shu Uemura, Christophe Lemaire and Tsumori Chisato. He’s currently working on his first exhibition followed by a book.

A 19th arrondissement kid, Paps grew up in an family from the Ivory Coast and knows all the streets in the Danube neighbourhood by heart. His life changed after his firts picture which caused an emotional shock. Paps was overwhelmed by the image he had just created, one that told the story of life, his street,...

A subjective columnist who studied Fine arts, Nikola Derrstroff is a trend specialist. A magazine collector, art trotter, and a voice over for wildlife documentaries, he leads a messy life, but doesn’t mess with his career. This contemporary observer is fuelled by his passion for fashion, architecture, and history.

When he is not writing for SO FOOT, where he has worked for more than two years, Eric Maggiori collects vintage clothes, from 1950’s denim jackets to rock t-shirts through soccer jerseys. On the weekends he watches Lazio soccer matches, with his Guinea pigs on his lap.

A studio assistant and retoucher, with a degree in photography, Julien Cozzolino mixes all the techniques he has learned during his different professional and personal experiences, and draws inspiration from great fashion photography masters like Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, Peter Lindbergh, and Patrick Demarchelier.

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news

Lacoste L!VE American Boy For spring-summer, Lacoste L!VE is all about outdoor trips, with a line inspired by the Californian lifestyle. Named “Beach Burner”, the collection echoes the look of skaters and surfers on the big avenues of Los Angeles, with bright and original t-shirts and shorts, some of them using purple and tie-dye. This hippie and streetwear-tinged sartorial fest will keep Lacoste L!VE’s fans happy this season. - SD

NEWS Surface to air x aaron young an arty collaboration The season got off to a strong start at Surface to Air, which teamed up with the urban artist Aaron Young for exclusive pieces inspired by his work. He is indeed known for painting flat surfaces, which are then burnt with motorcycle tyres. This controversial technique encouraged him to create three men’s t-shits for Surface to Air. He paid homage to his detractors by printing catch phrases like « Go Home », « Locals Only » or « Go Back to the Valley ». This season, we will gladly follow him in this artistic rebellion. - SD

Cuisse de Grenouille x Menlook For spring-summer, Cuisse de Grenouille and Menlook have collaborated on a collection that takes us to sandy beaches. Inspired by Australian surfers, this limited-edition wardrobe includes pairs of swimming shorts, (one beige, the other blue), and two tee-shirts adorned with urban logos. We love the sophisticated details mixing elegance and urban edge. This exclusive collection will be available on Menlook.com in May. - SD

The Strokes’ « Come-Down »

miansai Inspired by American style, Miansai jewels continue their ascent in the menswear universe. This season, designer Michael Saiger focused on a sailing trend, with rope-like bracelets, anchor-shaped pendants and leather links. These rustic, classic, and timeless creations will add fantasy to any masculine outfit. Available on Menlook.com. - SD

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After a two-year hiatus, The Strokes are back in 2013 with an unexpected album called The Comedown Machine. After almost imploding during the recording of their latest album Angles, the band released a surprise electropop influenced single titled One Way Trigger. Thankfully, with their new single All the Time, they’re going back to their roots. Produced by Mike Kaplan, this promising fifth album will be available on March 25. - SD

news

a casual summer at ymc

a dog’s life Dogs are the new cats. Men’s most faithful companions are stealing cats’ limelight by wearing the latest fashionable clothes. United Bamboo started the trend by putting cats in city clothing. Now dogs also have their icon in Bodhi, a Shiba who wears berets and varsity jackets like no one else. Virile, masculine, and canine: he’s our current Lol Dog. - SD

This summer, You Must Create “took inspiration from a hodgepodge of ideas inspired by vintage kimono prints, 1960’s West Coast surfers, and the casualness typical of the 1980’s”. Imagined by Fraser Moss, the YMC star silhouette looks casual yet structured. Colourful without garishness, the collection is cut in fabrics as soft as silk and cotton. This summery masculine line can be worn as easily in the asphalt jungle as on hot beaches. - SD

©Wegman

the crème de la crème of festivals

fabric invasion

During summer, festivals are the places to be. Here are the three events you shouldn’t miss this year. © DR

- The Coachella Festival attracts indie music lovers as well as fashionistas with rubber boots and flowery. The must-see concert of the year: the Red Hot Chili Peppers. April 12-21 in California, United States. - The Rock Werchter will host about 50 of-themoment artists including Green Day, Rammstein, Blur and Bloc Party. A real melting pot. July 4-7 2013 in Werchter, Belgium. - With Rock en Seine, the whole city of Paris will dance to Phoenix, Paul Kalkbrenner and System of a Down. The latter’s fans will surely be particularly happy, as the band will reunite for the occasion. The definitive schedule will be released in June. August 23-25 at the parc de Saint-Cloud, France. - SD

Vivid African fabrics (actually wax cotton printed in Holland) have now invaded many Western catwalks, and the art world’s version of this West-meets-Africa alliance is to be found in the masterful work of Yinka Shonibare, a Nigerian-born, British artist who’s made the fabric the mainstay of his creations. Expressing his vision though painting as well as sculpture, photography, film, and collage, he has used the fabric on historical figures, stuffed animals, a ballet dancer, or cosmonauts. Fabric-ation, his largest retrospective in the UK, runs through September 1st at Yorkshire Sculpture Park, where one of the highlights includes one of his Wind Sculptures, an open air fibreglass sculpture representing a piece fabric caught in the wind. A perfect metaphor for a highly consistent, yet lighthearted body of work. - SG www.ysp.co.uk Photo: Jonty Wilde Courtesy Yorkshire Sculpture Park, Stephen Friedman Gallery & James Cohan Gallery

sixpack france x menlook the bestiary A French brand that jumpstarted the concept of artist collaborations, Sixpack France forges ahead with an exclusive collection with Menlook. Always in a French graffiti art vein, sweatshirts, tee-shirts and cotton scarves, flaunt animal prints and sober shades for a chic and urban look. Each piece in this limited collection is only reproduced 35 times, and will be available in April on Menlook.com. Prices: tee-shirt: €45, sweatshirt: €99, scarf: €29 - SD

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news

the godfather of cool With vintage 1970’s street culture currently all the rage, clearly a new generation should discover (or rediscover) the oeuvre of Barkley L Hendricks, whose seminal 1970’s paintings of urban black youths define the word “cool”. Many of these treasures, plus landscape paintings and photographic works, are on display in Heart Hands Eyes Mind, a new exhibition at the Jack Shainman Gallery in New York until April 6. Spanning four decades, the show summarizes everything the Black American pioneer stands for: elegance, grit, sex, beauty, and originality. - SG www.jackshainman.com Photo: courtesy of the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York

(ele)gant rugger Within a few years, the Gant Rugger line (which belongs to Gant) became a must-have in the male wardrobe. Launched in 1949 by Bernard Gantmacher in the Lower East Side in New York, the brand draws its inspiration from the sportswear chic world. Poloshirts, leather-sleeved teddy jackets and sneakers set the pace through the seasons. A strong identity which seduces any American elegance aficionado. - SD

the cook eats out Need to find some croissants after a (positively) exhausting night with your lover? You’re broke, but still fancy a nice meal? You just arrived in a foreign country, and want to find the best restaurant in town? Phaidon tackled all these problems in Where chefs eat, an original new book, in which 400 of the best chefs in the world talked not about their own restaurants, but the places where they love to eat. With more than 2,000 recommendations all across the globe, you may well discover that the best restaurant in the world is located just a few blocks from your flat. - SG www.phaidon.com

a.p.C. gets bigger A.P.C. is on a roll! Last January, the hip and minimalist brand opened its eighth Paris store on the upper side of the Marais neighbourhood. Aimed both at men and women, the boutique displays the latest collections, and in further good news, A.P.C. announced the opening of new stores in New York. Which should satisfy fans of parkas and regular jeans. - SD

the series of the moment magic city and american horror story

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A Mad Men aesthetic and intrigues worthy of the Godfather: that is what you will find in Magic City, the new series currently broadcast in the United States. Miami is the new haven for players, with murder, prostitution, and dirty money on the menu. Just come over for dinner at the Playa Miramar. That’s where the action is. American Horror Story is the first series dedicated to horror. Its strength lies in its ability to change stories while keeping the same actors. While the first story took place in a haunted house, the second happened in an asylum. The third one takes place today, in a little town in the South of the United States. Jessica Lange has the leading role, and she will have to escape the misdeeds of a psychopath. Less creepy and funnier, this season will put women’s power to the fore. - CMT

news

macklemore the thrift-shop rapper While all rappers flaunt bling up to their teeth, Macklemore is surfing the vintage trend. He even went as far as naming a song Thrift Shop, which boasts more than 145 million hits on YouTube. Directed by Jon Jon Augustavo, the video pays homage to thrift clothing like fake fur coats, fringed jackets, or printed shirts. For the American rapper and his entourage, wearing vintage means flouting preconceived ideas. We already like the idea of seeing 50 cent wearing a beret and loafers. - SD

men rule at ted baker Painting the men from the boys: that’s Ted Baker’s idea for spring/summer 2013. By tucking scarves into the pockets of his jackets and poloshirts, the British brand wanted to reveal the dandyish side of men. Available in a variety of colors and prints, the collection also includes chinos, light sweaters, or Merino wool jumpers for outdoor parties. Inspired by ancient dressmaking techniques, the fearless Ted Baker mixed vivid colors and bold prints. Preppy, efficient, and essential, the new line offers a nice selection of light pieces lined with eccentric fabrics. As for the accessories, leather and canvas make up a surprising satchel. Confidence is a state of mind at Ted Baker. In short: here is a perfect and classy wardrobe for summer. - SD © DR

destination tumi It will soon be time to get your luggage out. For both chic weekend get aways and long haul trips, one can rely on Tumi, the leading brand for travel accessories. Its fans include Brad Pitt, David Beckham and Barack Obama, who just can’t get enough of their clutch bags and rolling suitcases while travelling. Just pick your next travel companion from a wide range of leather and fabric luggage. - SD

pantone goes green

obey : shepard fairey or the art of the tee-shirt

Goodbye Tangerine Tango! The Pantone colour chart has elected emerald green as the official colour of the year. The American company, which assesses the influence of colours throughout the world, categorically stated that in 2013, green would be our best ally. Seen on the runways of Jil Sander and Burberry, emerald green looks as good on trousers as with small prints, and it easily suits all complexions. Throughout the months, this audacious and elegant shade will actually be a perfect wardrobe companion. Who knows? We might even turn into Robin Hood. - SD

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When Shepard Fairey is not roaming streets in search of spots for his street art, he designs clothes. This season, the artist illustrated his t-shirt line with his artwork. The star item is the “Berlin Tower” t-shirt, inspired by a graffiti he did two years ago. As graphic as ever, the line also includes the famous “Obey Propaganda”, or the timeless red “Obey” on a blue background. Hard to find a better means of expression. - SD

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internet

tribune.menlook.com

best of the web The Menlook Tribune is not just available on paper. Visit our web version to discover these 5 unmissable features on tribune.menlook.com: online and on-trend.

HOW TO TALK WINE LIKE A CLASSY CONNOISSEUR? This elegant nectar with its intoxicating power is the French tipple of choice. Once upon a time every man knew how to choose the right grape variety to match his food. But that was before all the big brands started to appear, leaving the majority of sommeliers out of a job. The Menlook Tribune takes the opportunity to create a little phrase book on “talking wine”

A.P.C: ELEGANCE AND SOBRIETY Pieces that take their inspiration from different musical genres, never foregoing quality and elegance. It’s A.P.C’s forte.

UGLY MODEL AGENCY: THE FIRST AGENCY FOR UNATTRACTIVE MODELS Small, too fat, too big, crooked teeth, big nose, unusual physiques now have their own agency.

STREET STYLE: BAG BOYS Seeing as pockets are never big enough and we find ourselves accumulating technological items by the second, why not give in to the man-bag trend? Clutch, messenger bag, trendy backpack or satchel… bags are undergoing a revolution in men’s wardrobes.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FITTED AND TOO SMALL ?

Us men have taken a step forward in fashion. Until fairly recently we didn’t know what T-shirt, shirt or trouser sizes we were. But a revolution is taking place. However, there’s still a small question mark hanging over us and we find ourselves standing in front of the mirror for hours wondering: “Is my blazer fitted or just too small?” Well here’s your chance to find out.

Find the full articles on http://tribune.menlook.com

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saga

focus

carven a freNCH SUCCeSS STOry With a fresh and spontaneous image, and a new wardrobe of menswear staples, the french brand carven has just risen from its ashes, like a phoenix. here is a true fashion story. By Nikola Derrstroff

The 1970s also marked a high noon for the men’s line, as their famous ties, jewels, scarves, and clothes were coveted by dandies at the time. The brand had become part of the establishment.

he house of Carven can be thankful to Guillaume Henry. After successfully designing the brand’s women’s line for three years, the 35-year-old Frenchman was handed the reins of the menswear in 2012, wowing the fashion world with his first show.

Unfortunately, these multiple licensing deals led to the brand’s slow decline, and the subsequent, numerous takeovers only weakened the brand even more.

The Carven men’s collection for spring 2013 collection was presented in Florence on June 21, 2012, at the Pitti Uomo, the most important men’s ready-to-wear fair. The designer instantly entered the fashion dictionary as the reformer of Parisian chic. The event was a roaring success, one he remembers as “the most beautiful day in his professional life”.

The house’s founder, Carmen de Tommaso, retired in 1993, and the following year, the Carven Homme license was bought by the SCM group. In 1996, Carven was forced to abandon its haute couture activities, and the Italian designer Angelo Tarlazzi was named creative director. edward Achour took over from him two years later, until 2001, when Pascal Millet took the creative reins of the house, allowing Carven to get the Haute Couture label again.

Guillaume Henry quickly set out to turn the house into a byword for French style. Carven has got its lustre back, thanks to his collections teaming with fresh and youthful items. The creative director clearly defined his work when he stated: “Carven is essentially about freshness”.

a sTELLar cOMEBacK

THIs nEw GOLDEn aGE cOMEs aFTEr a TOUGH pErIOD And yet, Carven has come a long way. Its incredible story started when Carmen de Tommaso founded the house in 1945, during fashion’s golden age. The French ready-to-wear house was granted the haute couture label until 1996. In its wonderful headquarters on the prestigious RondPoint des Champs-elysées, Carven showed its first haute couture collection, featuring a nowlegendary cotton dress baptized Ma Griffe. It became a worldwide hit. A women’s and men’s fragrance quickly followed. Vetiver was actually relaunched in 2009 under the name of Le Vetiver. Building on this success, as of 1965, Carven started making uniforms for about 15 airlines, and also dressed the French athletes at the 1976 olympic Games in Montreal.

carven key dates

The real change happened in 2009 with the appointment of Guillaume Henry, a wizard who previously worked for Givenchy and Paule ka.

‘‘The Carven fashion house is an historic place for French fashion.’’ Frédéric Mitterrand (former French Minister of Culture)

His challenge was to turn the house into an affordable ready-to-wear brand, which the talented designer pulled off with flying colours. Such was the success of his collections that he was put in charge of the men’s line. For this new endeavour, he quickly took inspiration from the Carven values: freshness, an easygoing elegance, and freedom. The line is more about charm than sophistication. It’s about a real man, in fact. And a realistic wardrobe. With its fabrics, colours and cuts, Carven has what it takes to satisfy demanding as well as more free-spirited men in their sartorial choices. It’s all

1945

1965

2009

Carven was founded in May, by Carmen de Tommaso

Carven creates uniforms for about fifteen airlines

Guillaume Henry is named artistic director of the House

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saga

carven

by jean-paul cauvin

shop on menlook.com

Fashion critic Lecturer at Atelier Chardon-Savard who is the carven man? Jean-Paul Cauvin: He is a young man who is not frightened by colours. He has a urban elegance, reinterpreted with a sporty side.

Yellow sweatshirt “Madras”, €186

who would perfectly embody the carven man?

about affordable luxury. Such is the line’s success that the house brandishes its menswear like a trophy. “Like we did with the women’s, we’re starting from scratch with the men’s line”, a spokesperson told us.

a wOrLDwIDE rEnaIssancE At the sumptuous new headquarters smack in the middle of the chic Saint Germain des Prés neighbourhood, the staff is raving about the brand’s numerous points of sale (550 for the women’s line and 150 for the men’s collection). As the Carven adventure has just started (again), a clean-smelling men’s fragrance concocted by the nose Francis kurkdjian is due for 2013. And freestanding stores are prospering. The brand’s image is thriving. Carven has a great future ahead. The adventure has only just begun (again).

JPC: Benoît Magimel without any doubt. His bony silhouette, combined with the physical roughness he now has, would make him a perfect ambassador. We could also mention Robinson Stévenin who would be a perfect match through his style and character.

why does the carven men represents French style?

Grey sweatshirt “Herbier”, €149

JPC: Carven puts the intellect ahead. Taking care of oneself, of one’s appearance without being showoff. The brand strength is to dress a personality without hiding it.

On warm days, what does the carven man look like? JPC: The Carven man wears cotton canvas trousers – either slightly cropped or rolled up at the ankle, with a small checkered pattern. He has a buttondown collared shirt with a windbreaker in bright colours, like klein blue. His shoes are two-coloured and laced; I would also picture derbies or moccasins which would pick out another colour in the outfit.

a style tip for our readers?

Pistachio green polo shirt “Herbier”, €159

Matte leather moccasins, €270

JPC: The Carven suit with shorts, even if it is quite appealing, isn’t safe for work yet.

2011

2012

Guillaume Henry takes the reins of Carven men’s line

Guillaume Henry presents his first menswear collection for Carven summer 2013 in Florence, during Pitti Uomo

Neon Orange keyring “Donkeys Ears”, €35 Discover the latest carven collection on Menlook.com

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must have

lacoste

crocodile dandy Gabrielle Chanel introduced jersey to fashion. Lacoste made it popular. The famous Lacoste polo shirt is celebrating its 80th anniversary this year. With a crocodile as a seal, it is an emblem of French cool/ chic. This menswear staple is now worn worldwide: 12 million pieces are sold every year. Let’s take a look back at the history of this iconic item. By Sarah Drenca

he story of the label started in 1927, when René Lacoste, the famous French tennis player, was given a nickname as fierce as his game: the “crocodile”.

At the time, the champion used to wear a traditional, thick white shirt, which was a must among tennismen. In his quest for greater freedom of movement during his matches, in 1933, he came up with an audacious short-sleeved white polo shirt adorned with a crocodile, and closed with mother-of-pearl buttons. This was totally new at the time. Flaunting a logo on the outside of a garment was very daring in the thirties, but the true innovation was the ultra-light cotton fabric that allowed the skin to breathe, all while making movements easier. The L. 12.12. Lacoste polo shirt was born. With this revolution underway, tennis players quickly dropped their shirts, clearly preferring René Lacoste’s new (and first) creation. From the fifties onward, the Lacoste polo shirt was made available in an unlimited variety of colours. With its elegant image, the brand became a favourite among members of the chic Rotary Club, and also became a signature look in upscale neighbourhoods. A few years later, the polo shirt became a trend. It was widely worn in the street, and countless fans emerged. Students, sportsmen, rappers, and young aristos all proudly flaunt their famous crocodile poloshirts. Hats off to the croc.

The Lacoste polo shirt, as seen by... Felipe Oliveira Baptista, designer, creative director at Lacoste

Thomas Lélu, writer, contemporary artist

Louis-Marie de Castelbajac, actor/designer

Blaise Matuidi, soccer player

“I first discovered the label as a child, by wearing polo shirts. The first I received as a gift at 14 was navy blue; with time, it turned indigo. This item is full of memories. I still wear it on holidays”.

“I once found an old pair of used shorts with the famous crocodile on it. It was old, tired, and too big, but it had the famous green logo. I carefully cut out the animal and sported a Lacoste polo shirt that all my friends envied”.

“I have early childhood memories of my father’s very old and used Lacoste polo shirts. He wore them to paint. The fabric was strewn with felt pen stains and pigments. As a child, I saw them as a summer armour”.

“My big brother was a bit of a model for me. As he was old enough to experiment everything before me, I admired him and dreamt of looking like him. I was a young teenager, he was old enough to go clubbing. Getting ready was like a rite for him. I watched him. For really big nights out, he wore this magnificent red striped Lacoste polo shirt. I found him so classy!

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a Man of style(s)

meeting

charlie’s hairitage He is the hair whisperer. He is also the king of hair. Charlie Le Mindu is a French hairdresser/couturier/ contemporary artist from Bordeaux who lives in London, much to the pleasure of the fashion industry. Le Mindu is an exceptional hair artist. He has made Haute Couture his specialty. He has a salon at Harrod’s (London), an upcoming one at the Ritz, and he is on first name terms with Queen Elisabeth II. He is actually one of those personalities you call Sir. During the latest haute couture shows, Charlie showed his Spring-summer 2013 collection off-calendar. By Monia Kashmire

here is Charlie? Everywhere. When you count Lady Gaga, Lana Del Rey and Mylène Farmer as customers, and Rossy de Palma as a confident, you are bound to have a wild aesthetic. That’s the case with this hair-raising young man, whom we met at his home in the trendy Shoreditch neighbourhood.

Inspirations The director John Waters is a huge inspiration. I admire his universe. I also admire Frida Kahlo. I am also tremendously influenced by architecture and futurism, notably the artist Giacomo Balla. But I don’t follow fashion, because I’m too scared of being influenced by another designer or another hairdresser. And anyway, I prefer creating without an inspiration at first.

collections I collect wigs. I am a fan of wigs and extensions. Not only for my work, but also as decoration for my apartment. It makes it happier. I have been passionate about hair since my childhood, that’s why I collect vintage Barbie dolls, as well as everything about the singer Cher, of whom I am an absolute fan.

Dressing I have a lot of leather clothes. My style is classic and a little “dark”. I have a lot of leather pants, many high-waisted pants, but also simple suits (although not only in leather). But I don’t wear vintage, but I don’t really like wearing labels. I prefer made-to-measure clothes. That’s a way for me to stand out. As far as shoes are concerned, I generally wear George Cox or Dr Martens.

‘‘I don’t follow fashion, because I’m too scared of being influenced by another designer or another hairdresser. I prefer creating without an inspiration at first.’’ menlook.com

Accessories I own a lot of glasses. I started my collection when I lived in Berlin, then I continued in London. I have dozens of them: eyeglasses, sunglasses. They are all hanging on a wall in my showroom.

a Man of style(s)

Ink I have about 20 tattoos. For me, it’s like doing a house up. Once you’ve started, you cannot stop. It’s the same with plastic surgery. Generally I don’t think about what I’ m gonna tattoo. I like it to be spontaneous. As a consequence, I don’t regret them. They make me laugh. Like the one on my hand, a pigeon saying “Where is my kebab?”, or the one my chest saying

“Shit on the dock or blood on the blade”. Tattoos are a way of expressing oneself easily. On my eyelid I had “Gypsi King” tattooed, with a spelling mistake, because it’s me. First because I cannot write without making mistakes, and second because I’ve felt like a nomad since I was a kid.

Beauty

Travel

I’ve worn the same fragrance since I was a kid: Guerlain’s Habit Rouge. It reminds me of my grandfather, whose look I was obsessed with. I found him magnificent. I also have Cartier’s Déclaration d’un Soir, which was the fragrance of my mother’s best friend, who was gay, and whom I admired. These two fragrances mean something for me. I’m faithful to them. As far as creams are concerned, I only use Guerlain’s Midnight Secret. It’s a magical potion for difficult morning-afters. I did a diet for 3 years, and lost 34 kilos, and then I started practising sport in order to maintain my new physique. I think I will soon start plastic surgery, because I love extreme or caricature physiques like Thierry Mugler’s, for example.

I travel by bicycle or taxi, depending on the weather. I don’t like public transportation, although the Parisian metro has some charm. It’s the only one I take. Since I was a child, I have been telling my mother I don’t want to get my driving licence because it would be of no use if I have a driver. I still don’t have a driver, of course.

Home I live in a loft in London, which is divided into several areas. There is a hairdressing space where I greet my clients, my friends, or celebrities. There is a couture space where all my team works on my creations, and another corner I consider my office, although it’s a real mess. That’s where I start my creations, with drawing and research. I have a team of seven who are here every day. I love that. I insist on being surrounded by very few people. Then I can check everyone’s work. My furniture is old. I have a marble table, and I love taxidermy, so there are a lot of stuffed animals everywhere.

addresses

In the pocket

food

In Paris, I love going to the Crazy Horse, Michou, the RA store, the Krash Bar, the Grévin museum, and in London I like the restaurant L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, and the Little Bay restaurant where for 14 pounds you can savour a full meal. It’s delicious. I love going to the monthly KAOS parties. And as far as culture is concerned, I like the Victoria and Albert museum a lot.

I always have my keys with me, my 4 phones, although only one works, a mascara to blacken my moustache and eyelashes, condoms, hair wax, a comb/knife, and a fake gold tooth. Nothing more. I keep everything in my pocket. I don’t have a bag.

I love cooking, but it’s difficult to do it in London. Apart from eggs and jelly, there isn’t much here. I love treating myself to a delicious meal when I am in Paris. I am crazy about steak tartare or rabbit with prunes. Generally my fridge and cupboards are empty. I make a lot of soups, and I am happy with jam on toast in the morning, and that’s it.

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fashion

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the story of a sailor, the story of a nostalgic loneliness on the beaches of Normandy. Composure and hedonism fuel this wandering. Unaffected by the passing of time, this pause is punctuated with poetry and brutality. There is duality everywhere. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lonesome cowboy in Deauville.

fashion

Yellow waxed coat “Elka”, Norse Projects Cardigan with striped collar “Regimental”, Hackett Raw denim pants “Rinsed Washed Eco Spencer”, Wrangler Bundle bag, Rain’s Printed cap, Obey Thick-soled shoes “Forester Dark”, Bally

fashion

Sailor’s top, ARMOR LUX Cream-coloured pants “Mercer”, TOMMY HILFIGER Oversize bag, A.P.C. Rubber boots “Goëland”, AIGLE

fashion

Bi-colour sweater “Buscemi”, ACNE Dolphin-printed pants, PAUL & JOE Suede topsiders “Nate”, TOMMY HILFIGER

fashion

Left page Bi-colour sweater “Buscemi”, ACNE Dolphin-printed pants, PAUL & JOE Right page Shawl-collared cardigan, Ralph Lauren Denim & Supply Burgundy shorts, Carhartt Notebook, Moleskine Scarf, Woolrich Black and gold resin pen, Montblanc “Week-end” canvas bag, polo ralph lauren “People 51 faded grey and crystal” eyeglasses, SUPER “Ingaro” beige shoes, Lacoste L!VE

fashion

Right page Checkered cardigan, Le Mont Saint Michel White t-shirt “Granville”, Acne Shorts, Polo Ralph Lauren

fashion

Suit jacket “Gosting”, McQ by Alexander McQueen Fitted white shirt “Martin”, BillTornade Suit pants “Peg”, McQ by Alexander McQueen Black silk bow-tie, Menlook Label Black shiny shoes “Tailors Nero Florida”, Paul Smith

fashion

Text & production: Monia Kashmire - Photographer: Axl Jansen - Style: Charles Marius ThĂŠlu - Style assistant: Sarah Drenca Hair & make-up: Mounira Boughanem - Production: Mathieu Even et Christophe Sengthong all the articles in this series are available on www.menlook.com

interview

White shirt “Call Me”, dsquared Contrasted belt trousers, commune de paris

menlook.com

interview

exclusive

Jérémie Elkaïm a Parisian gent Do-re-mi... Jérémie. His first name could be likened to the first keys of a melancholy sonata. A tormented hero’s hair, brooding eyes. He is a romantic character. As one of French cinema’s unavoidable faces, he has built his career one film at a time, very quietly. By Monia Kashmire

his spring, he will star in Un grand départ alongside Pio Marmaï and Eddy Mitchell. The story of two brothers faced with their father’s mental degeneration. A funny movie on a much darker subject. And that’s what makes Jérémie Elkaïm stand out - he is a bubble of lightness and futility imprisoned by the laws of gravity. He is not unlike a bubble of champagne. An infectious intoxication to be had without moderation. “I’m a staunch advocate of frivolousness, I love fickleness”. Could it be a remedy to his anxiety? Jérémie Elkaïm is a sort of ideal son-in-law for French cinema. You can picture him having an oh-so-boring chat about the wrongs of the 75% taxation with his father-in-law, sitting in the family living-room by a Sunday afternoon, with the image of Michel Drucker in the background, while sipping at a freeze-dried coffee served by his mum-in-law, who blushes when he compliments her on her good looks and blanquette of veal. A French version of the boy next door. And a genuine seducer. He never answers questions directly. “Any brothers or sisters? - Er... yes. - What is your place in your family? - I’m here and there, the eldest at times, the youngest at others”. He likes beating about the bush. As if conversations should be foreplay. “I love imposture in life. The idea of making up a different life. Last time I took myself for someone else, I claimed my father owned a stewed apples factory and that I lived on my private income. It is just another way to seduce, and when a seduction relation appears, I love entering into it”. A seduction that works very smoothly, his feminine sensitivity being his best ally. “I’m very much attached to my feminine side, I like women’s company, I’m not much into what you could call male friendships. Probably because I’m a woman myself”. He lives his love stories both with women and cinema, and sometimes on screen with his ex-wife. And it’s this moving unhappy love affair that links him to Valérie Donzelli in the film La Guerre est déclarée. One of French cinema’s fairest successes in 2011. “Shooting with Valérie was just as exciting. We had written this script together, it’s a story built by the two of us”. And it was the first and only time ever that a film graced the cover of the French daily newspaper Libération.

Last year was intense for Jérémie. Two films, acclaimed by the audience, highly praised by the press : Polisse, by Maïwenn, and La Guerre est Déclarée. Two films in which Jérémie is directed by two women he knows well. His longtime friend Maïwenn and Valérie Donzelli, the mother of his two children. Two powerful films in which he respectively plays the part of a father fighting against his son’s disease, and a naïve policeman, just out of school, with a tendency to give big speeches. “Maïwenn really liked the idea that the policeman I play should use complicated words. On set, she kept telling me: say complicated words. Even if sometimes it made this character sound crazy. Maïwenn liked the comedy feel that came out of this rhetoric”. A certain nonchalance emanates from this young man, who’d rather turn down a glass of champagne for green tea. While reading the composition of the ayurvedic infusion I offer him, he confesses he loves indulging in idleness. “I love the idea of living things with a certain dilettante spirit. I like living by night, because it has a slower rhythm”. And this love for idleness is something he has cultivated since an early age. In secondary school, he already skipped algebra classes to hang about film theatres, devouring classics such as Mauvais Sang by Leos Carax, found in his parents’ VHS collection. A rather

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‘‘I love the idea of living things with a certain dilettante spirit. I like living by night, because it has a slower rhythm.’’

interview

Navy blue jacket “The Hopshack”, Gant rugger White shirt “Play Pat”, hartford Coral chino trousers, wrangler

cinema- enthusiastic approach to playing truant. While smoking a Marlboro, he tugs at his A.P.C. sweater. A discreet look for someone with a strong taste. Jérémie prefers beauty to fashion. “I try to surround myself with beauty. I’m not passionate about fashion, I’m attached to the sobriety that goes hand in hand with the anonymity I like to cultivate”. There is elegance in the choice of the material, demand concerning the cut. Jérémie is a dandy. A French-style Lord Byron who would have swapped his monocle and silk scarf for a pair of sneakers and jeans. An urban chic style that suits him well. His telephone rings several times. His son. We take up the conversation at a faster pace. The questions are rolling out like a speed-dating session. Iconic women? “Marilyn Monroe, Françoise Dorléac...”.

‘‘I’m a staunch advocate of frivolousness, I love fickleness.’’

What moves you? “Scars”. The music on your iPod? “The Stranglers, Bob Dylan, David Bowie, M.I.A... ”. Your secret haunt? “I used to take walks in the alleys of the Louvre and think”. Distinctive feature? “I suffer from insomnia”. The food you can cook? “Whole cereal galettes”. A trip? “Japan! The cheapest way to go to Mars”. You and social networks? “I have no Facebook page or Twitter account”. One last confession? He smiles and admits he has once googled his name and doesn’t like his pic on his Wikipedia page at all.

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Woman of the moment

confessions

Rama Yade politically correct Rama Yade is unique. She is a UFO of a politician. When she talks, she looks you straight in the eyes. She speaks frankly, with no benevolent adviser in tow. She’s not calculating. She’s a real woman. We exchanged text messages to arrange the time for a meeting. She is polite and sweet. She ends all her text messages with “Best regards”. We met for a cup of tea in a café, in the Odéon neighbourhood of Paris. By Monia Kashmire

immediately put her mind at ease, telling her I will not talk about her pregnancy, and that I will ask her if she fathered Rachida Dati’s child. Rama laughs. Actually, many of her strong assertions are punctuated with her irresistible smiles.

Our orders arrive: tarte Tatin for her, a millefeuille for me, hot chocolate for both of us. She addresses me in the “vous” form, but she shared pastries. To put her at ease, I try to skim through the political topics of the moment. She is in favour of gay marriage. For her, the UMP crisis is due to a lack of leadership. She is pessimistic about the French economic situation, but thinks French people should be reassured and not terrorized. According to her, Depardieu’s departure crystallizes a larger problem: the anti-rich climate in France. Rama is a political prodigy. She attended Hypokhagne and Science Po Paris. Her mother was a literature professor and her diplomat father was Léopold Sédar Senghor’s right hand men. Despite this prestigious heritage, Rama is a self-made-woman. She is an audacious kid. We beat around the bush for a while. There is an awkward silence. The waiter brings another round of drinks. Then I launch into the conversation. How does it feel to be a minister at 30? What are her memories of this period? Always frank, she confesses: “It is both a blessing and a burden. It is a blessing, because at my age, I have had the opportunity to meet amazing men and women like Condoleezza Rice, Ayaan Hirsi Ali, Ingrid Betancourt, Aung San Suu Kyi... You just cannot be mediocre after that. But it was also a tough period, because I constantly had to justify myself. Many people thought I had taken their job”. With her cute face and elongated silhouette, she was barely 30 then... Some newspapers even nicknamed her “the government’s Naomi Campbell”. Yet her career path and her risk-taking statements prove the contrary. Rama may be pretty, but she knows how to say no. People found her too young, too beautiful, and thought she was only appointed thanks to affirmative action. People blamed her for all this. The minister of human rights found herself in the hands of humans, of men, but also a fusty political world ossified by an apparatchik system. People define her as insolent. She made headlines after showing nerve regarding Khadafi, way before the end of his regime. This attitude is now interpreted as courage. “Khadafi welcomed us in a desert, in an immense, luxurious tent. He greeted each of us like a rock star, with his curly, long, and wet hair. Wearing a white suit and a black plastic African continent on his chest, he approached me, saying: “You’re already a minister at your age?” I laughed and replied: “Didn’t you make a military coup here before the age of 30?”. She proved she could be the French first lady of jibes. She tells us about the cruelty and the stupidity of some newspapers who wanted to liken Rama Yade to Rosa Parks. She still bitterly remembers an article titled “Princess of the Sahel”. “As if I was just arrived from the bush”, she said ironically.

We promise we won’t title the article “the black pearl of politics”, or “Rama Yade, a black panther in the political jungle”... We do some black humour. She is amused. She tells us about how being the first black woman in the government is no easy task: “I got several letters from black women. Some encouraged me. Others lectured me about my appearance. We like you, Rama Yade, but you have to do something about your braids”. She put up with all the initial problems, paving the way for Christiane Taubira. “I received a lot

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Woman of the moment

of letters about my hair, my makeup, or my clothes. I was once invited to attend a diplomatic evening party in Asia. I was very simply dressed, with black pants and a jacket. After the event, I received a letter from a lady who was shocked because I wore jeans. Even if it wasn’t denim, I started to understand the power of clothing, and the impact of fashion”.

A political etiquette looking for labels Rama Yade has found her new political family. She is the vice-president of the UDI, the new centrist party led by Jean Louis Borloo, but she is still looking for the right wardrobe. “I never thought about my look when I was a minister. I dressed as simply as possible, as if I was on my way to a job interview: a black jacket, black pants, and a white shirt. I wore a lot of Zara and H&M, out of practicality, as I was busier trying to free political prisoners. But once I became a minister, I could no longer go to such stores. I even had to have

Chanel boutique on the rue de l’Elysée. This was a strange experience, because that was the first time i had been to this kind of store, and the saleswoman, who was trying too hard, wanted to choose for me. As a result, the dress I wore wasn’t really suited to an official night. As we have no style advisors, we are often close to diplomatic incidents. So I went on an official trip to meet the Queen of England without wearing a hat. Later I understood how crazy that was. In the world of politics, we’re wrong to think that talking clothing just means discussing rags. Our role is to bear a message. Despite their compulsory sobriety, our clothes must tell this message. And for female politicians, it’s even more complicated, because we do not want to be just known for our clothes”.

Fashion police After one hour, things get more relaxed. We’re having fun. We gossip. “Fillon was indisputably the most classy of all ministers”. The worst? “All of them”. From Cécile Duflot’s jeans to Roselyne Bachelot’s “Pink Crocs gate”, no subject is taboo. The best dressed women? “Queen Rania of Jordania, and Letizia of Spai. Some Asian first ladies are often too much: too much cleavage, too much makeup”. Politicians’ wardrobes: “basic grey”. Manuel Valls “too colorful, too tight”. Hollande “could do better”. Sarkozy? “Same problem as Hollande at the beginning. Towards the end of his mandate, he wore his suits very well. But fashion is a real passion for Sarkozy. He talks about fashion, diets, music, the finale of The Voice... Apart from his political conversations, Sarkozy is like a good girlfriend”. Barack Obama? “Very classy. He is advantaged by his great looks. He is not my type of guy, but he is the most stylish. He is the James Bond of politics”. Merkel, “no style”, Cameron, “it’s a shame”, Berlusconi, “no comment”. Omar Bongo, “Gabonese style with seventies-ish big sunglasses”. So what about Roselyne Bachelot and Cécile Duflot? “The first is an heiress, protected and accepted by the system, so she can take risks. Her Crocs are just a joke. And Duflot’s jeans are a green manifesto. They carry a political message. I don’t like them at all”. I finish the last slice of Tarte Tatin. After a battle over who will pay the bill, I finally win, arguing that “my office will pay for it”. We say goodbye with no kiss or handshake. She vanished after smiling to my last question. “Do you think about the Presidency while shaving?”

‘‘My cabinet, essentially made up of men, realized that my choice of an evening dress could be political.’’

a bodyguard to go shopping at Monoprix. It was too complicated! So for my minister wardrobe, I took advantage of my holidays In the United States to shop in malls, as anonymously as possible. The hardest was during official nights, especially when you work for the Quai d’Orsay. We often had to follow strict protocol rules. Men had to be in suits, and women in gala dresses. I remember pretty funny moments, when my cabinet, which was essentially made up of men, realized that my choice of an evening dress could be political. For my first evening party, my cabinet arranged an appointment in a

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beauty

perfume

green gold This spring, perfumers’ organs are turning green. Cut grass, green wood, lavender, viola... this Pantonelike color model of fresh notes is meant to evoke virility in a light-handed way. Fruity notes are now becoming masculine. Blood orange, fig leaf, citrus, bergamot… the “five fruit a day” adage is becoming a new olfactory option. The Menlook Tribune editorial team has selected the best green gold. In green we trust. By Nikola Derrstroff

Green Eau de parfum by Byredo, €95 for 50ml – Figuier Eden Fragrance, Les Eaux Armani Privé, €120 for 100ml – Bel Respiro Fragrance from the Exclusifs de Chanel collection, €120 for 75ml L’Eau du trente-quatre Eau de toilette by diptyque, €75 for 50ml – Candour Fragrance by Humiecki & Graef, €160 for 100ml – (untitled) Fragrance by Maison Martin Margiela, €80 for 50ml

The art of wearing fragrance when you are a man

By Nicolas Cloutier, Founder of the Nose perfumery in Paris. This temple of niche fragrances has also invented the concept of olfactory diagnosis.

How should a man wear a fragrance without smelling like an over-perfumed lady?

So what’s your advice for spring or summer?

Do you know the perfect technique to apply perfume?

You first have to find your own olfactory personality, according to your age, the season, and the moment. It means that you don’t wear the same thing for day and for night. Choose your deodorant and creams carefully. They should be fragrance-free.

Of course, you should go for lighter fragrances, those who evoke holidays and freshness. Citrus notes. You should avoid what we call animal notes like leather, amber, or spices, which are better suited to winter.

Focus on the “golden triangle” formed by an open shirt. Avoid the inside of your wrist, as the fragrance will mix with sweat. Focus on the forearms. You can also spray the handkerchief you keep in the pocket of your jacket. You can also put perfume at the back of your calves, to leave a trail behind.

menlook.com

38 38

voitures the tribune

adam ikx’s column

SAVE french CINeMA For several weeks, French cinema professionals and their system have been plagued by countless attacks. The Depardieu and Maraval affairs are not isolated cases. The problems are deep-seated. How far will this indecent masquerade go?

Adam Ikx, journalist, movie critic Premiere.fr

ust like Spielberg’s Private Ryan, French cinema needs to be saved. Although the valiant soldier fighting Nazi enemies on the beaches of Normandy had problems of a different kind, our film industry is going through a crisis that is undermining it from within. This is the only conclusion we can draw after a year like 2012 that saw all the French blockbusters failing at the box office – Sur la piste du Marsupilami, La Vérité si je mens 3, and Astérix and Obélix: God save Britannia – and when most of the other movies lost millions.

producer Vincent Maraval wrote a fiery column in Le Monde that spared no one: “After American studio movies, France has the highest record for average production costs: 5.4 million Euros, while the average cost of an American independent movie is around 3 million Euros. This average cost never drops, although more films are being produced, movie theaters’ figures are stalling, the sales of DVD’s are crumbling, and movies on television are losing viewers to reality TV and TV series. So why all this fuss around the Depardieu affair?”

In a time of crisis, it is a darkening blow to this starry industry. Beyond the worrying figures, this new awareness of these problems, and the stir it caused among actors in the media, coincide with Gérard Depardieu’s fiscal exile. The fact that this monstre sacré, who single-handedly symbolizes French cinema, left France (disappointed with the country’s politics) has traumatized the entire industry. The unlikely Torreton diatribe – a violent, gratuitous, and insulting open letter published in Libération – and the following ones – the great Catherine Deneuve going astray with an article in Le Parisien to stand up for her friend Gégé – are proof of the palpable tension and fragility of a system that was long considered unsinkable.

Indeed, for Maraval, the production problems are clearly linked to the astronomical salaries of movie stars, a consequence of an unhealthy system that has movies financed by TV channels, who insist on hiring popular celebrities so that they can sell their evening advertising space. Is the whole system wrong, from its financing to its showing in cinema? The CNC and many have since confided that the system was unhealthy. Of course. But how can we believe this when Dany Boon earns 3.5 million Euros for Le Plan Parfait, which attracted only 1.2 million viewers? How could we not be skeptical when Asterix at the Olympic Games costs more than Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull?

‘‘The unlikely Torreton diatribe and the ones that followed are proof of the palpable tension and fragility of a system that was long considered unsinkable.’’

After this sorry masquerade, a winter’s saga that revealed the darker side of this dream industry – the

And what if, beyond the financial system, the main problem of French cinema was deeper, and more original: a problem of creativity?

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the tribune beauty

eric maggiori’s column

what Beckham’s arrival is going to change for PSG There it is. David Beckham has become a Paris Saint-Germain player. Supporters had stopped believing in it. Last year, Manchester United’s former star had almost committed himself with PSG. The club had even ordered whole batches of jerseys bearing his name.

Eric Maggiori, journalist So Foot

Prevarication, hesitation, waiting, refusal. Becks had finally chosen to remain under California’s sun rather than getting a taste of the Parisian grey skies. Not that we can’t understand him. After a year spent between Santa Monica and Melrose, the Golden Boy has settled down in Paris at last. What for? To play, probably. For his experience, in all likelihood. In a decorative role, certainly. But one thing is already for sure: David Beckham’s arrival at PSG is going to make quite a change. Paris, which has already acquired a new standing since Qatari investors took charge, followed by a bunch of stars (Zlatan, Thiago Silva, Lavezzi, Pastore), is going to reach the next level. Because David Beckham does not only come to Paris as a mere player. He is also Beckham the sex-symbol, with his ads for briefs, his tattoos, his denim shirts, his reputation. First measure taken by the Parisian managers: you now have to obtain an accreditation to be allowed to attend the club’s training sessions. And then what? Are we soon going to require an accreditation to write an article about PSG? Or a discharge form signed by Prince Al Thani to have the right to down a bottle of beer on one’s couch while watching one of the Parisian team’s matches? Science-fiction, football-fiction. Well, not that much, really. Yes, Mister Posh’s arrival blurs the rules, but its impact and consequences are not necessarily bad. First, it would give people whose paths hardly ever cross occasions to meet. We can already picture the unlikely encounter of diehard PSG supporters, wearing CommodoreTourtel jerseys and red beanies jammed tight on their heads, and Grazia editors perched on their 12 centimetre-high Louboutin stilettos, coming

to see “David”. Calling him by his first name just sounds better, you know. Oddly enough, they won’t be the only ones to take an interest in the Beckham phenomenon. Gentlemen, do not panic if, within the next few weeks or months, the Mrs wishes to watch a PSG match with you. “And who is that small bald guy there?” / “That’s Christophe Jallet ” / “ Well, he’s less gorgeous than Beckham”. A real fashion (in both senses of the word) phenomenon, so to speak, that will certainly lead the parodic TV show Les Guignols to make a puppet of him and invent the verb “to beckham”. I beckham your girlfriend, you beckham this three-piece suit just fine, and so on. This media stunt could send the outspoken Zlatan Ibrahimovic back to anonymity, at least. The peak of this Parisian-style Beckhamism could be a Spice Girls’ come-back gig (this time it’s really, really the last one) organized in the Parc des Princes to celebrate PSG’s title

‘‘Gentlemen, do not panic if, within the next few weeks or months, Madam wishes to watch a PSG match with you.’’ in the French championship. Yes, thanks to David Beckham, everything becomes possible and conceivable for PSG. Yes, We Ckham.

menlook.com menlook.com

39 39

report

blitz motorcycles

lazy rider

Blitz Motorcycles is an independent garage that turns old motorbikes into desirable objects. These vintage and unique creations have earned it a cult following. This atelier, called Blitz (German for lightning) is secretly hidden in the 17th arrondissement. By Nikola Derrstroff

hese two aesthetic mechanics behind Blitz are dream sellers and pleasure distributors. Their cavern is hidden at the back of a banal Yamaha dealer. They’re not your ordinary mechanics. They create motorcycles. They don’t do oil changes upon request, or regular service. In their atelier, they fuse vintage motorbikes after hunting them down. Blitz is made up of two guys. Two men of rugged good looks. Their hands are dirty, and their beards are bushy. Their atelier-cum-loft is full of stuffed animals and a 1960’s flipper adorns the salon space where they greet their clients. Who become their friends in time. Fred Jourden, almost 40, and Hugo Jézégabel, who is ten years younger, are sedentary during the week, but they become free as birds at weekends, which are spent on road trips. Their engines hum like purring cats. They love cruising. They just want to enjoy riding their powerful motorcycles between friends. They don’t care about speed, preferring the art of living. The road is their playground. In their heads, they

picture Steve McQueen driving his BMW in The Great Escape. They decided to make motorcycles their livelihood after some

So he took evening classes and passed an NVQ in mechanics. And they ditched everything. Sure, his lifestyle changed, but happiness

loved working on motorcycles. So they took the plunge. Blitz Motorcycles was born in 2011. Old BMWs, Hondas, Kawasakis, Yamahas, Harley Davidsons or Royal Enfields have all had the Blitz treatment. And clients flock to their garage. They even turn some of them away. For a price between 13,000 and 15,000 euros, the lucky ones can treat themselves to an exceptional item. On condition that they remain patient. Their order book is full for a year and a half. Like Hermès’ famous Birkin bag.

soul-searching. Fred was a successful online marketing director when he realised that his life was missing something. He needed something more concrete.

came with it. He would spend his days working on motorcycles. He skipped his keyboard in favour of dirty oil. As for Hugo, he was a landscape designer, but had always

‘‘Their order book is full for a year and a half. Like Hermès’ famous Birkin bag.”

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They permanently work on 5 different motorcycles for about 4 months. Then the mechanics deliver the spanking new motorised artwork. Fred and Hugo never do the same machine twice, perfectly in tune with the spirit of customization. In our troubled era, people are going back to real, basic things. Hands are made to create and craftsmanship has regained its prestige. These Blitz guys are two real artists.

watch out

timefy

it’s Time for minimalism Good old minimalism is the trend of the season. Watches sport clean lines. The dial goes back to its primary function: to indicate time. Elegant and timeless sobriety is just what you need for summer. By Sarah Drenca Style: Charles Marius Thélu

Jacob Jensen Watch 605 Titanium Blue Chrono Sapphire Leather bracelet, water-resistant to 50m €339 Nixon The Unit SS All Black Green watch with stainless steel bracelet €229

Clomm

Mutewatch Mutewatch Pure Black Rubber watch €199

Silver grey Clomm watch, with black ceramic background and black leather bracelet €349 Daniel Wellington Sheffield Silver watch with black leather bracelet €175

Maison Martin Margiela Russian dolls Thanks: Made In Design www.madeindesign.com ALL THE WATCHES IN THIS SERIES ARE AVAILABLE ON TIMEFY.COM

food

beef up

meatology: carnal pleasure A good entrecôte steak-and-French fries meal (entrecôte frites) is not just any meal. These 400 grams of meat, which can be served either rare, well-done, grilled, smoked, thick or tender, are cut up with a knife and savoured with delight. You just cannot get enough of the entrecôte, which tastes heavenly when accompanied with homemade fries generously cut in fat potatoes and then dipped into a succulent Béarnaise sauce. What better choice to make when you want to have a delicious meal at the restaurant? By Nikola Derrstroff

he entrecôte-frites is actually an easy choice. It’s about comfort food, something you pick almost automatically because the risk of being disappointed is minimal. There are several cuts of beef, among them the undercut, the rump steak, the tail, or the tenderloin, but the entrecôte or rib steack is the real thing. Probably the most famous cut. It has even become an ambassador of France and its bistrot cuisine. Accompanied with fries, it turns into a masculine meal, more than a meal actually: a symbol of virility. One specialist has managed to capture all the mouth-watering sides of the entrecôte. An outstanding butcher, Hugo Desnoyer knows the subject by heart. This Parisian is passionate about his job -the noble art of butchery- and his hard work has made him a reference point. He is, quite simply, the French star in the business, the supplier to celebrities, as well as the biggest restaurants in the capital. In his second book, Morceaux Choisis, he talks about his “carnal job”. This recipe book has meat as its main ingredient, but it is also about the history of flesh. Hugo Desnoyer shared his knowledge with The Menlook Tribune. This meal has a story to tell. “If the entrecôte-frites has become a synonym for great food, it is partly due to the rise of feminism, but also to America’s hegemony”. In the past, beef wasn’t a favorite of the aristocracy, who preferred big game or poultry, leaving beef to peasant’s stomachs. And yet, meat was emblematic of the powerful. “Flesh symbolized physical strength, might, richness, and sexual power”. Since the age of female emancipation, which gave women less time to devote to their kitchens, meal that took hours to cook. Rich and good meals that are quicker to make progressively entered households and restaurants. The entrecote was part of them. Entrecôte-frites has become a portmanteau, as if this piece of beef had never existed

‘‘A real « meat in France » label. A carnal desire.’’ without its fried pals. It’s become almost impossible to bring oneself to eat entrecôte with anything else. And yet, at the beginning of the last century, entrecôte was savoured with mashed potatoes and bone marrow. Then the Americans arrived with their culture, their chewing gums, and their fries.

restaurants serve pieces of meat in gargantuan proportions (800 grams). They are grilled in ovens. Well-cooked in some African countries, the entrecôte can also be marinated in a lactose sauce and served as carpaccio in Belgium.”

Of course, the entrecôte has also been successful abroad. “It is cooked in different ways, according to the countries. In Japan, for example, the meat is finely minced and then cooked in vegetable broths. On the contrary, in the United States,

A mainstay of contemporary cuisine, the entrecôte is a symbol of France. A real “meat in France” label. A carnal desire. That is, if you can cook…

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food

Entrecôte-frites: Chief Benjamin Darnaud’s recipe

ooking a good entrecôte-frites at home is not always easy. It would be a pity to miss out that meal, as this first-rate piece of meat can be cooked in just a few minutes. The highly respected cook Benjamin Darnaud has shared with us his entrecôte-frites recipe.

talented, busy chef, who has done the menus at Favela Chic and Wanderlust, and authored the books Recettes en Direct (Live recipes) and Cuisinier sans restaurant (Cook without a restaurant), Benjamin shared his advice with the carnivores that we are. For me, it’s all about choosing the right meat. I like Aubrac meat, and it has to be really bloody. I choose a nice entrecôte, 300 grams minimum, otherwise there’s no point in cooking it. I have a secret: before I start the cooking, I grill a few grains of pepper on the pan before putting them back in the mill, like coffee beans. Then I

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heat up the pan (it has to be really hot) with a little salt and ground pepper, and then I throw my entrecôte into it. I cook the meat for 5 minutes on each side, then I remove it. I put foil on it, and let it rest for a few seconds, because, with the heat, makes the blood rise to the heart, so I wait for it to get back. Then I grill it again in the pan, but for much less time, before savouring it. As for the fries, go for easiness, which means salt and pepper, never cook them in olive oil, and choose seasonal potatoes. That’s the only prerequisite. Then I serve it all with a sauce made of olive oil, coriander, garlic, and lemon juice. Scrumptious.

backstage

crazy horse

lust in translation In a Menlook Tribune exclusive, the Crazy Horse has opened its normally closely guarded stage door. We spent some time with the most beautiful girls in Paris. By Monia Kashmire

ith its numerous female bodies, its legwork, its light shadows, its graphic wigs, and its head-spinning derrieres, the Crazy Horse has maintained its mythical reputation as a Parisian institution. This fantastic cabaret is a French-style temple of eroticism where many celebrities have undressed, personalities whose names are whispered like a caress: Lova Moor, Dita Von Teese, Arielle Dombasle, Pamela Anderson, Clotilde Coureau. Divas, princesses, revue leaders... Well,

never mind the label. Let’s just worship them. On stage is a brigade of strippers wearing nothing but a pair of Louboutins, sidestepping, precisely contorting themselves, their bodies and souls reeling. Their acts resemble Toile de Jouy paintings. With beams acting like spanks, only the light can pride itself on being able to stroke them. The lascivious dancers and their curves make one shy, so shy in fact that the room’s velvet furniture could blush. It’s a clash of the tits. One no longer knows which breast to turn to.

‘‘Only the light can pride itself on being able to stroke them.’’

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backstage

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travel

hot spots

Do you, do you Saint-Tropez? Long regarded as an overrated town, Saint Tropez has managed to disprove this point. It has been a fashionable destination again for the last three years. The house of Chanel made it a star when it staged its cruise show there...The Madrague is under the limelight right now. Here are the hot spots in the legendary resort. By Sarah Drenca

To relax

Eats

what to do: Recharge your batteries at the Pandei, with its massage room, hammam and luxury suites with private, Bollywood-style gardens. WHERE? 52, rue Gambetta, 83990 Saint-Tropez +33 (0)4 94 17 71 71

what to do: Savour the truffle raviolis, fruttini, and frosted fruits at Cristina Saulini. WHERE? 13, rue des Feniers, 83990 Saint-Tropez +33 (0)4 94 97 46 10 what to do: Taste the bistrot food at Chez Fuchs, with its superb potatoe and celery pancake. WHERE? 7, rue des Commerçants, 83990 Saint-Tropez +33 (0)4 94 97 01 25

WHAT TO DO: Enjoy an authentic breakfast with a view of the beach with homemade watermelon jam at the Ferme d’Augustin. WHERE? Route de Tahiti, 83350 Ramatuelle / +33 (0)4 94 55 97 00

what to do: A coffee break at Sénéquier to savor the Saint Tropez pie and a glass of champagne at snack time. WHERE? Quai Jean Jaurès, 83990 Saint-Tropez +33 (0)4 94 97 35 93

WHAT TO DO: Enjoy a 5-star luxury moment at Byblos and treat yourself to a four-handed massage. WHERE? Avenue Paul Signac, 83990 Saint-Tropez +33 (0)4 94 56 68 01

what to do: Taste the homemade ice cream flavours, including Kinder Bueno at Barbarac, by the seashore. WHERE? 2, rue du Général-Allard, 83990 Saint-Tropez +33 (0)4 94 97 67 83

WHAT TO DO: Chill out at the Sezz Saint-Tropez, an ultra-exclusive 5 star hotel, with only 37 rooms, set up by two daring talents, architect and interior designer Christophe Millet and landscape gardener Christophe Ponceau. This unique hotel boasts an avant-garde spa with energy check-up on arrival, yoga classes and more… WHERE? Hôtel Sezz Saint-Tropez (5 star) 151 Route des Salins, 83 990 Saint-Tropez +33 (0)4 94 55 31 55

what to do: Sip a Saint Tropez sparkle cocktail on a deckchair, surrounded by celebrities at Nikki Beach. WHERE? Route de l’Épi, 83350 Ramatuelle +33 (0)4 94 79 82 04

shopping

GOING OUT

what to do: Bring back a pair of Tropéziennes sandals, Picasso’s feet and also those of all the stars who vacationed there in the past. WHERE? 18, rue Georges Clemenceau, 83990 Saint-Tropez +33 (0)4 94 97 19 55

what to do: Visit the Cabane Bambou, a heavenly place in Pampelonne WHERE? Plage de Pampelonne, route de Bonne Terrasse, 83350 Ramatuelle +33 (0)4 94 79 84 13

what to do: Act like a trend forecaster at the stylist’s haunt Battaglia, with its selection of edgy, little known brands. WHERE? Traverse de la Garonne 83990 Saint-Tropez / +33 (0)4 94 97 05 94

what to do: Go to the Azur Park on the gulf of Saint Tropez for the thrilling ejection seat. WHERE? Carrefour de la Foux, 83580 Gassin what to do: Dance into the wee hours at Caves du Roi, where you will hobnob with the crème de la crème of celebs. WHERE? Avenue Paul Signac, 83990 Saint-Tropez / +33 (0)4 94 56 68 00

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