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export.magazine@mteedizioni.it
THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE
exportmagazine.net
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N. 2/2022 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via R. Gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - € 7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi.
YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
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COME TO VISIT US AT 28 APRIL - 1 MAY 2022 HALL 14 - BOOTH D26 E25 WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM
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COMPANY
On the cover: Astra Make-up, avant-garde products for a demanding clientele
N. 2 ANNO XLII APRIL - MAY 2022 BIMONTHLY APRILE - MAGGIO 2022 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Faenza Group SpA Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni
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6 8 14 24/25 23 36/37 40/41 48/49 84/85
Fila Transvital Sifarma Lumson Bellagio Naturaverde BIO Qualimed Nouba Anothian
EVENTS 16 42 64 66 80
Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Cosmoprof North America TFWA Asia Pacific PCD Milan Beautyworld Saudi Arabia
INTERVIEW 10/11 12/13 20/21 28/29 30/31 56/57
Cosmetica Italia: R. Ancorotti Astra: L. Menghella, S. Settimi Layla Cosmetics: B. Spagnolo Fedua: L. Gonzini Pharmacos: V. Misitano HSA: S. Zanzi, D. Zanzi
LAUNCH 22/23 38
Dsquared2 Desìo
report 26 m1nd-set 44/46 Beautystreams 74/79 Beauty and the nft Beast – Valérie Kaminov
Advertisers’ list Cover-II-1 9 86 61 47 81 33 83 34 82 43 17 39 69 73 27 7 50/55 19 3 60 18 35 IV 67 65 15 III 87 5
Astra Baralan BeautyEurasia BeautyIstanbul Beautystreams Beautyworld Middle East Bellagio CBE CosmeTokyo Cosmobeauté Cosmoprof North America Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Desìo Esxence Experience Lab Fedua Fila HSA Layla Cosmetics Lumson LuxePack Montecarlo MakeUp in ...Paris Naturaverde Nouba PCD Milan Paris Packaging Week Sifarma Transvital Vivaness Xerjoff
ARTISTIC PERFUMERY 4 58 68 70 71 72
Xerjoff S4P Esxence In Astra Simone Andreoli Experience Lab
company
SCENT OF DARK
Photo: Max Sticca
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A song… a fragrance from Tony Iommi and Xerjoff
The new single from the iconic Black Sabbath guitarist is also a fragrance that Sergio Momo, parfumeur, designer and CEO for Xerjoff, has created, inspired by the common aromatic reminiscences of 1960s’ and 1970s’ rock music. While luxury fragrances, such as the Xerjoff brand, and heavy rock may not seem to have much in common, Tony has always been interested in fragrances, collecting them on tour in different countries. Having met Sergio through a mutual friend, the perfumeur asked Tony if he was interested in creating a fragrance of his own. Tony sent Sergio a list of his favourite smells and the latter created some samples, with Tony picking the one he liked best and the project moved on from there. It was a real joint venture, as Sergio also plays the guitar n Scent of Dark and has one of Iommi’s collectable models of guitar the 64 Gibson with the cartoon monkey image, which even appears on one of the bottles. The final result of Scent of Dark, with amber and patchouli reminiscent of festivals ad gatherings in the 1960s and 1970s, harmoniously characterizes the dark sound of Iommi’s original famous ’64 Monkey Special’ guitar with spicy and seductive scents. Made with the finest raw materials, handpicked rare ingredients and exquisite packaging, this exclusive edition Xerjoff blends for Tony Iommi is the world’s first multisensory experience between sound, scent and spirit, with the launch scheduled for November 2022. Tony wanted to encapsulate in a bottle the evocation of emotions, alongside a new music track and video, and even a bespoke cocktail. The various aspects of this multi-sensory experience successfully inspired the musical visualization of Scent of Dark, developed at Iommi’s home studio. Scent of Dark is an excellent example of how friendship and passion when combined, can create great and unique results.
COMPANY
FILA
FRAGRANCES
Anniversary Limited edition eau de parfum The tangible FILA F serves as a shell for a fragrance that aims at mirroring the FILA essence: daring, free, out of the box. A scent that is for everyone but who sticks to the rules. A molecular fragrance was the only choice to reflect this kind of attitude.
A different fragrance for different people
FILA fragrances joined the celebrations for FILA 110th anniversary creating the exclusive Anniversary Limited Edition eau de parfum: only 1.000 items available all over the world. The most iconic and recognizable element of FILA heritage is phisically built, brought to life. All is focused on the FILA “F” concept, that through a long process of study and artisan work becomes not only the bottle that contains the fragrance, but a real and unique collector’s piece.
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The only kind of fragrance that is by its very nature unisex, not easy to label or put under any type of constraint, yet easy to adapt and fit to the skin of who is wearing it. The scent is a perfect blend of its woody, ambery and musky notes. The freshness of the ice accord top note is perfectly balanced by the rich ambery note with some woody cedarwood facets of the heart and base notes, resulting in a fascinating and sophisticated scent. But what makes it really unique is the skin of who wears the Aniversary eau de parfum, that unfolds the molecular fragrance effect creating unique fragrances individually depending on one’s own body odour. Not only a fragrance, but a concept of uniqeness that pairs with FILA’s iconic heritage.
GIVE YOURSELF
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COMPANY
Transvital Lip Volume two in one
From the root of the cogon grass, a sub-tropical plant which survive in arid climatic situations and in excessive salinity, has been created a botanic exclusive complex from which has born the new Transvital Lip Volume. The Lip Volume has a new formulation to create a product with a double effect: volume effect and filler effect. It provides a 24h moisture and, thanks to hyaluronic acid, it makes lips and lip contour firmer and more elastic. Seaweed has a detoxifying action and it acts as a cellular protector: with UVA and UVB filter, it protects skin from solar radiation and from premature aging. Lip-plumping agent stimulates collagen’s synthesis, has restructuring properties and, combined with vitamin E, it has an antioxidant action. The new Transvital Lip Volume is perfect for those who want redefined and plumped lips.
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INTERVIEW
COSMETICA ITALIA
A PATH OF GROWTH AND MODERNITY FOR AN INDUSTRY ‘THAT DOES THE COUNTRY GOOD’
Interview with Renato Ancorotti, President of Cosmetica Italia EXPORT MAGAZINE: How has Cosmetica Italia evolved over the past few years? Is the final result positive, despite the well-known events that affected the global population? RENATO ANCOROTTI: The numbers speak by themselves: we have gone from 500 to 631 members, with a significant increase in the actual members and the whole supply chain. The new members have meant that the loss of turnover during the pandemic (as is known
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the membership fees are calculation in proportion to the individual turnovers) was compensated by the increase in value of the membership fees. In the meantime, the general economic situation is improving, even though there is still worry over the ‘winds of war’ and, for the next two years, we expect a general increase in the membership fees in value. EM: Is anything new planned, at the structural level? RA: For the purpose of providing services that are increasingly targeted to our members, we are studying new services that can meet specific requirements; for example, we are assessing how to give the best support to companies in mass retail and to companies linked to artistic perfumery. EM: The initiatives you promote and support include Milano Beauty Week, in its first edition. Can you tell us about this? RA: Milano Beauty Week is a cultural project dedicated to beauty and well-being aimed at increasing the reputation of all the sectors of our activity.
INTERVIEW
It is a privileged occasion to promote the different facets of the sector and its values: economic, social and scientific. The economic value is shown by the “figures” that bear witness to the excellence of our companies, which are appreciated all over the world for the quality of their products. The social value of cosmetics, on the other hand, is represented by their being essential allies for well-being and self-care in our daily lives. This feature emerges clearly in the activity of La forza e il sorriso, the non-profit organization sponsored by Cosmetica Italia which offers beauty workshops free of charge to women undergoing cancer treatments. There will also be initiatives linked to La forza e il sorriso during Milano Beauty Week, from charity boutique corners to speakers in the calendar of the Beauty Talks. Lastly, the scientific value of cosmetics: ours is a sector led by science and oriented towards continuous investments in research and innovation; you only have to think that about 6% of the turnover is invested in this sector, about twice as much as the average of manufacturing industries. EM: Are we going towards a new way of conceiving beauty? RA: Our companies continue to explore beauty in all its facets, taking into account the need to have an attitude that is increasingly attentive to sustainability, both in the formulations and in production. What we possess, and is typical of Italian-made quality products, is knowing how to make the products well. This is the value that the whole world asks us for, and that we can supply. EM: The Association you chair is national. Glimpsing at the figures on the sector shows that Lombardy groups together the majority of the companies that produce cosmetics. RA: 55% of Italy’s cosmetic companies are in Lombardy and about 65% of the cosmetic turnover is in Lombardy.
This shows that the cosmetics sector is driving and fundamental. EM: How important is training? RA: Training is compulsory to reach a Cosmetic 4.0. The Association is carrying on various projects to train new professional figures for the future, technicians, commercial, marketing etc. Cosmetica Italia aims to promote high level training thanks to which we can insert well trained operators into our companies. This is the case, for example, of the ITS course for Higher Technicians in 4.0 Cosmetic Production, a new offer on the scene f training opportunities in the field of cosmetics, promoted by Cosmetica Italia, the Chamber of Commerce of Cremona, ACSU – Associazione Cremasca Studi Universitari, Fondazione ITS Nuove Tecnologie della Vita of Bergamo, Fondazione ITS Nuove Tecnologie per il Made in Italy, REI – Reindustria Innovazione, IIS Galileo Galilei of Crema and Crema City Council. It is a two-year course of study after the secondary school leaving certificate specifically for cosmetics and unique in Italy, which trains youngsters to enter the world of work straight away, thanks to the close synergy between school and companies. Training is also important to carry on research into all the topics linked to sustainability, starting from the study of packaging in line with the needs for compatibility with the raw materials used for the products. We cannot conceive of a product without considering where it will be put. EM: Beautystreams recently presented a project called ‘No age anxiety’, a transversal and universal message. What do you think of this? RA: It is an interesting project, one of substance, and a topic of the future, that leads consumers to reflect on how to go through the various phases of age without great anxiety, and our cosmetics companies on how to present ad hoc products to accompany the increasingly long lifespan. Claudia Stagno
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INTERVIEW
ASTRA MAKE-UP
Interview with Lucia Menghella CEO of Astra - and Simone Settimi General Manager of Astra
lucia menghella, ceo of astra make-up
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SIMONE SETTIMI, GENERAL MANAGER of astra make-up
Let’s take stock of the first quarter of 2022: lots of news and important projects at ASTRA. ASTRA continues its growth in terms of brand awareness and visibility, positioning itself as a global band in the world of cosmetics and a point of reference of an inclusive public thanks to its concept of “democratic luxury”, which everyone can afford and which puts individuality and the unique characteristics of each individual person at the centre. The brand, 100% Made in Italy, as well as standing out for the launch of innovative, natural and performing products, in recent months it has also featured two very well-known programmes on the media scene - X Factor 2021 and “Citofonare Passoni – Sanremo Kermesse” – which further brought them closer to all its fond consumers, as well as further increasing its public. In addition, these first three months of 2022 saw the entry of Astra in the e-commerce of the beauty giant Douglas, a very important partnership which we are sure will bring us further visibility as well as make our online distribution more widespread and efficient.
INTERVIEW
Let’s speak about the products that are important this quarter In these first months of the year, we have mainly concentrated on colour, meeting the market trends in a targeted way: from mono eyeshadows to extending the shades in the face make-up range to satisfy any tyoe f phototype up to meeting a demand for extreme radiance for the face amd for the lips using avant-garde amd melting textures. Color Idol is the new range made up of 10 mono eyeshadows in iconic shades and in 2 different finishes (satin and matte) which redefine the concept of colour as the star of every eye make-up look. Its powders contain emollient oils that give creaminess to the texture, making application easy and smooth. Astra is continuing its path in inclusivity. The colour range has been extended both of the best-seller foundation Transformist Foundation + Concealer, with the innovative dual-action formula - foundation + concealer – which ensures an impeccable complexion, and of Long Stay Concealer, the long-lasting and high coverage concealer, with a creamy and airy texture . Now even the fairest ad the darkest skins can find their ideal shade for a perfect make-up look.
During Cosmoprof, we will also present the new collection Glow Couture: a range of products for the lips and for the face that will allow everyone to be radiant and to bring out into the open their inner radiance. Madame The Sheer Lip Stylo is on its way, a lipstick with a lightweight and enveloping consistency, a magic balm for the lips in six shades with dazzling reflections based on hyaluronic acid that exalts the volume of the lips. Then there is C’est Glow Highlighter, the compact highlighter in a silky powder, in two shades suitable for all types of complexions, which gives the face a radiant appearance as though sculpted in pure light, thanks to its new-generation beads. Lastly, Jumbo Highlighter is the maxi pencil that gives a soft shimmering line with multiple uses: it highlights and defines the brow arch, exalts the key areas of the face and gives radiance to the eyes.
You mentioned Cosmoprof, at last we will be able to meet people in the flesh again… At last after a long absence due to the pandemic, we will be returning to Cosmoprof: an opportunity both to be in contact with our most loyal public and to each new consumers and to carry on our plan of growth which aims to extend not only or network of distribution in Italy but also to expand our already strong presence abroad thanks to which we are distributed in over 30 different countries in the world. This year, we will have a new and large stand that will host all the different worlds of Astra: make-up, natural cosmetics, skincare and semi-permanent nail varnishes. It will be a new start that we cant’ want to share with our clients. Claudia Stagno
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COMPANY
Frankie Garage
Sifarma
This is a lifestyle brand inspired by sport, dynamic life ad street art. With its cool logo, cheerful colours and a vintage touch, the Frankie Garage range of fragrances comprises Sporty Fragrance, Black Out, Red Tag, Blue Tag and Green Tag, all inspired by the smart casual and sportswear brand.
AN INTERESTING SELECTION OF FRAGRANCES ‘MADE IN ITALY’
Sifarma, based in Milano - Italy, is a company that was established and developed by the Berchi Family. It has been operating in the aesthetic and dermatological sector for more than 30 years. More recently it entered the Masstige Perfumes market by signing licensing agreements with Italian designer brands. Great value for money: the products are the perfect combination of quality, refined fragrances and affordable prices. It is a selection of fragrances designed for all occasions and suitable for all budgets. All the brands are Italian, mainly coming from a production chain MADE IN ITALY. The product portfolio is in continuous evolution and constantly enriched with new brands and innovative products.
Morris Created in 1946, the Morris brand is present with both male and female fragrances, offering a touch of originality and refinement combining French charm, British style ad Italian creativity. All the fragrances are made in Italy in a certified Morris plant, with the highest standards of production quality. From the iconic Gocce di Napoleon to Morriselle Potion d’Etoiles and the Wild Man Land, Morris fragrances explore the various olfactive families.
Plinsky This brand is inspired by the American lifestyle and skateboarding to escape a conventional daily routine. It takes its name from the character of Jena Plissken in the film “1987: Escape from New York”. Plinsky White Flash and Plinsky Black Flash are inspired by the street style of skateboarding and surfing, all in a vintage mood.
Enrico Coveri Enrico Coveri is one of the most famous Italian fashion brands which emerged in the 1980s. The keywords of the Enrico Coveri style are colour, patterns and sequins. Coveri fragrances have been created for both women
Lotto Sifarma distributes the male fragrances and treatments of the famous sports brand, Lotto. The design of the bottles of the Lotto Eaux de Toilette highlights the sporty and contemporary character of the product. and men, including the classics, Paillettes. The latest fragrances are Contemporary Girl, an elegant eau de parfum in the oriental olfactive family and Green Contemporary, an aromatic fougère for men.
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Basile The Basile fashion label is characterized by attention to sartorial details and high-quality fabrics. The Basile fragrances reflect this, whether Pour Homme, Pour Homme Intense, Oceano and Pour Femme.
Burani The female fragrance reflects the romantic and glamorous spirit of the 1930s and the “luxury gypsy” of the Mariella Burani fashion collections, while the male fragrance is a magnetic and contemporary composition for the sophisticated and demanding man.
April 29th - May 2nd • 2022 Hall 36 Booth D18 - E17
Come and visit us to discover our fragrance portfolio.
Distributed by Sifarma Spa
Sifarma S.p.A. Via Filippo Brunelleschi, 12 - 20146 Milano - Italy Tel. | +39 02 422015.1 - Mail | info@sifarma.it Web | sifarma.it/en | thefragrancesfarm.com/
EVENTS
Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna The cosmetic industry is ready for the 53rd edition, scheduled from 28 April to 2 May 2022 in Bologna
This edition confirms previous years’ results, despite the complications related to the international scenario. Over 2,700 companies from 70 countries, organized in more than 30 pavilions, will be present to find operators and launch the latest collections. There will be 26 country pavilions, with small and mediumsized companies ready to tell the best of cosmetic production in Belgium, Brazil, China, Czech Republic, Ecuador, France, Germany, Greece, Indonesia, Ireland, Israel, Japan, Latvia, Mongolia, Poland, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Turkey, UK, and the USA. Apart from the difficulties for operators from China and Taiwan due to the anticovid restrictions still in force, and from Russia and Ukraine because of the war that broke out in recent weeks, Cosmoprof records 30% of exhibitors attending for the first time or returning to Bologna after a few years of absence, pleasantly impressed by the event’s ability to renew itself and adapt to new business tools. Thanks to its constant adaptability, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna has already received confirmation of the participation of buyers from more than 90 countries.
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“For 2022, thanks to special projects withmedia partners and trade associations, we are organizing ad hoc programs for Italian and European retail chains and perfumeries. Thanks to the support of the ITA agencies, we are ready to welcome distributors and importers from North and Eastern Europe, as well as from Angola, Cameroon, Canada, Korea, Kuwait, India, Indonesia, Latin America, Malaysia, Myanmar, North and South Africa, Oman, Philippines, Qatar, Republic of Congo, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Thailand, UAE, USA, and Vietnam. Our goal is to offer a quality event to stakeholders, combining faceto-face initiatives and digital tools to facilitate matchmaking and business development”, concludes Zannini.
16 & 17 June 2022 - Carrousel du Louvre
The Glo.cal event boosting beauty innovation
Join the community ! Download you invitation www.makeup-in-paris.com
@laylacosmetics
INTERVIEW
LAYLA COSMETICS An authenTIc brand perfectly combining irony and innovaTIon A solid gel polish created to “break the rules”, as the slogan says. The second in the long-awaited waterproof version of the acclaimed The Longer The Better mascara. Ready once again to amaze with an updated formula created to create water-resistant threads. Super long and voluminous lashes that survive diving!
INTERVIEW WITH BABILA SPAGNOLO, LAYLA COSMETICS CEO EXPORT MAGZINE: What have you planned for your participation in Cosmoprof 22? BABILA SPAGNOLO: Our buzz word for Cosmoprof 22 is innovation. We will be presenting two brand new products, one which is destined to revolutionize the most deep-rooted habits in semipermanent nail varnish and the other to answer one of the most frequent requests of our public. The first is the Solid Gel Polish, which has never been made in Italy before. It’s the end of bottles, with convenient “pods” like eyeshadows and a solid consistency that offers the additional option for whoever wants it: the possibility of easily applying the product to cover the correct portion of nail before polymerization, getting round difficulties that the least expert encounter with liquid varnishes that inevitably tend to run.
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EM: In the past few years, Layla Cosmetics has implemented some major changes. Can you tell us about them, explaining the strategy behind the various initiatives you have undertaken? BS: In modern society, everything can change very quickly and it is important to keep up with habits and customs that are continuously evolving. At the same time, it is fundamental to characterize each initiative with something that represents a link with our history, something that identified, makes recognizable and, if possible unique, anticipating trends instead of undergoing them. Layla Cosmetics is not a brand that gives its preference to glossy models suggesting easily accessible standards of perfection; Layla Cosmetics chooses communication channels that are instinctively enjoyable that satisfy the needs of the body and the mind at one and the same time. Layla Cosmetics chooses the irony of Taffo and the innuendos of Rocco Siffredi in the conviction that makeup should be used to smile and not to be perfect. There has only been one aim since the beginnings way back in 1936, to convey authentically and transparently who we are, what we do and why we do it.
INTERVIEW
EM: In our opinion, you have not restricted yourselves to launching ‘new products’ but rather ‘new concepts’. Is the path you are taking proving you right? BS: Exactly, you have hit the bull’s eye! WE do not make do with launching products that are of excellent quality but within everybody’s reach, we also focus on communicating what we believe in, concepts in which we think many can recognize themselves. The reaction is definitely positive, perhaps because never as before there has been such a desire for authenticity. EM: What are your bestsellers? BS: We started as a company making nail varnish, so first of all there is the Gel Polish but the important progress obtained in the recent past has consolidated us as an all-round make-up brand, so immediately afterwards we find The Longer The Better mascara, the Eternal lip colours and the three-colour Rarity eyeshadows. EM: The present time, at an international level, is not the simplest. Are there any foreign markets that you deem are more inclined to implement the current commercial and communication strategy of Layla Cosmetics? BS: In this economic-social situation that forces us not to approach some markets, we care continuing to have great confidence in the potential of the brand and the
LAYLA communication and we effectively believe that there are various areas we can focus on with the awareness of having at our disposal all the right instruments for brilliant results. Taking into consideration the geographic Asian macro-area, we know that we have an important possibility of expansion on the South Korean and Japanese markets, thanks above all to the latest launches characterized by packaging that is even more suitable for that potential clientele. China is a separate matter which we want to approach with an online-first strategy but which will have a fairly wide horizon. We are also on the right road in India to start collaboration with a market place that would allow us for the first time to have visibility on an extremely complex market but which at the same time is fascinating and potentially interesting. As far as Europe is concerned, we are expanding in the online segment to cover almost all the main markets, thanks to the agreement with two global strategic partners. Traditional distribution here is clearly in difficulty even though we continue to be able to establish new collaborations with the Baltic countries and Romania. Closing the circle, we can see opportunities for expansion in both offline and online distribution in the United States and probably in Latin America as well, precisely in Chile, through direct agreements with chains of drugstores and perfumeries. Claudia Stagno
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LAUNCH
DSQUARED2 DEFINING THE CONTEMPORARY MAN
The Canadian twins, Dean and Dan Caten, behind the DSquared2 brand, present a new fragrance inspired by the wood of their homeland’s vast forests. Original Wood is designed around the characteristics of this ancient material: strong and sturdy, with a complex structure that makes it unique and inimitable. This makes it perfect to define the contemporary DSquared2 man, who is sensual, with confidence in himself and in his personality.
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The Original Wood man lives by his passions, on good vibes and is attracted by what is new. Looking for a sophisticated essence that expresses the authenticity, depth and passion that defines him, he finds it in this intense and vigorous fragrance. Evoking the elements of nature, the top notes are of natural and reassuring violet leaves and the fluid freshness of the aquatic accord which vibrate with the spicy accents of the responsibly sourced cardamom Guatemala.
LAUNCH
The heart of woods, the core and character of the perfume, include cedarwood, silver fir and vetiver Haiti. In the drydown, the evocative tones of musk, deep patchouli Indonesia and sensual vegetal amber. The linear bottle for this woody floral fragrance is made from opaque glass. The original cap is made from the highest quality ash which is created piece by piece, offering a level of craftsmanship that has almost disappeared. The cap also features a magnetic closure.
Like wood, this fragrance is strong and sturdy with a complex structure The mixture of warm and cold materials meets without losig their own sensory qualities. Wood as a material lends an archaic flavour which is powerful yet reassuring, while the brilliance and clarity of glass and aluminium enhance the preciousness of the liquid it contains.
The exclusive crafting of the bottom allows the glass to spread into a curve, which creates a new element inside the bottle- a teardrop shape, like another ampoule to hold the fragrance. The packaging is elegant and sealed with a maple leaf, the unmistakable symbol of the DSquared2 fashion house and the homeland of its founders, is a guarantee of quality, research and innovation. The visuals for the advertising campaign show the Original Wood man by DSquared2: a man used to the outdoor life and wild surroundings, rugged and powerful with confidence in his own abilities and skills. The model is the former Italian rugby player Alvise Rigo who has been photographed by Giampaolo Sgura.
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COMPANY
LUMSON AT COSMOPACK 2022
After MakeUp in Los Angeles, Lumson is preparing for the most important event of the year: Cosmopack 2022, which will take place in Bologna from April 28th to May 1st. “Over these past few weeks, our attention has been focused on the preparation of Cosmopack, a muchawaited event after two years of forced ‘absence’ due to the pandemic. At the event, in addition to the mainstays of our portfolio like the Touchless® systems and dispensing systems, we’ll also present various new innovations that combine Lumson’s green approach with its technological spirit”, explained President Matteo Moretti.
matteo moretti, president of lumson “TRIED AND TRUE” SOLUTIONS AND MANY NOVELTIES
Following the road of sustainability and the principles of a circular economy - Reduce, Reuse, Recycle- after having launched Ecompact, the compact-case made with Marino Belotti that is completely separable and recyclable, already the winner of Best Packaging 2020, Lumson launched Re Place at the end of 2021, the 50ml jar with a refillable inner cup for skincare products.
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company
Already noted for its TAG, APP, and TAL systems which incarnate three of the core values of the company’s philosophy- technology, safety, and sustainability – at the trade show, Lumson will officially present the brand new Envers Glas, the airless system in a jar. “Envers Glas reveals a new chapter in the story of Lumson’s airless with pouch systems, combining all the characteristics of the ‘classic’ Envers with the exquisite
M ARINO BELOTTI
A choice consistent with the path taken by many beauty brands, including luxury ones, which have added refillable solutions to their ‘traditional’ formats. The advantages deriving from the use of these systems are tangible: reusing alreadyexisting packaging means avoiding producing, transporting, and throwing away new ones. “Re Place is easily removable and replaceable and is the perfect answer to the market demands for sustainability. In the new design systems based around a circular economy, refills represent an effective solution due to the extremely positive impact they have on the environment and because they suggest new, more ethical and virtuous consumer habits to more attentive consumers. All eyes are also on airless systems, a segment in which the Crema-based company is recognized as one of the key players at an international level.
quality of glass, a material that is sustainable but at the same time, sophisticated and valued”, declared Moretti. Catering perfectly to the consumer needs of women who prefer products in jars for their beauty routines, Envers Glas is practical to use and guarantees formula integrity and high product restitution. An emblem of positive luxury, Envers Glas, like all Lumson’s airless systems, was designed with an eco-conscious approach: once the product is finished, the glass and plastic components can be separated and disposed of using the appropriate recycling method. Cosmopack will be the occasion to present another new innovation: we’re talking about XPaper, the revolutionary paper airless that is already the winner of ADI Design, a finalist in the Golden Compass 2022, and in the running for Cosmopack Awards. A packaging that has everything needed to win over brands and consumers.
Marino Belotti, a leader in compact cases which became part of the Lumson Group in 2019, will also be present at Cosmopack. Marino Belotti will present Overlayer – cosmetic à la carte, the new collection that explores the market trends and innovatively combines materials, finishes, and decorations.
Lumson will be in Bologna from April 28th to May 1st in Hall 15, Stand C14-D13 and Marino Belotti in Hall 15, Stand D14-E13
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REPORT
Pandemic impact on customer segmentation in travel retail Significant changes in the agency’s benchmark customer segmentation models According to its latest research, the five customer segment families have changed quite significantly in terms of their respective proportions among shoppers in the travel retail environment, as a result of the pandemic. The five segments are: “Local Touch Seekers”, “Emotional Brand Image Seekers”, “Price Sensitive Shopping Lovers”, “Rational Pre-Planners” and “Low Income Buyers”. The proportion of Local Touch Seekers saw a sharp decline in 2021 compared to the 2017-2020 period, reaching an all-time low in 2021, falling from 36% in 2020. This segment now represents 20% of shoppers. The Rational Pre-Planners segment on the other hand has grown quite significantly in 2021, reaching 27% of all shoppers, considerably higher than the pre-covid period, when it accounted for between 17% and 19% of shoppers in duty free and travel retail. This change in behaviour, m1nd-set says, may be explained by sanitary concerns that emerged from the pandemic. The Emotional Brand Image Seekers and Price-sensitive Shopping Lover families both saw a slight increase in size between 2020 and 2021 and each segment now represents 20% of all shoppers according to the m1nd-set customer segmentation. The fifth of these customer segments, the Low Income Buyers, has remained quite stable between 2017 and 2021, representing between 13% and 14% of shoppers in duty free; but experienced a gentle decline to 12% in 2021. In this latest research, m1nd-set, who has analysed traveller behaviour, including both
shopper and non-shopper behaviour for 15 years across all world regions, categories and channels, provides a detailed analysis of how shopper behaviour across the segments has evolved across these variables, as well as by gender, age-group and travel purpose. In terms of the regional overview, m1ndset claims that Rational Pre-Planners are the most representative among all buyers in duty free shops with the exception of the Asia Pacific region, where the buyers are more likely to be Emotional Brand Image Seekers. By age group, Millennials and Middle-aged shoppers are more likely to be Rational Pre-Planners compared to the other age groups, while among Gen Z buyers there is a higher share of Price Sensitive Shopping Lovers, compared to the other age groups. In the Senior age bracket, Local Touch Seekers are the most representative of the customer segments. Emotional Brand Image Seekers is the segment purchasing Makeup, Confectionery and Skincare the most compared to other segments. m1ndset Chief Operating Officer Clara Susset said: ”Shoppers behave quite differently in the travel retail environment and have a different set of expectations than consumers when shopping in the high street. Customer segmentation therefore needs to be adapted to the various influencing elements that are unique to the sector; elements such as excitement, stress, desire for novelty and expectations of differentiation and uniqueness. Dr. Peter Mohn, m1nd-set CEO and Owner, added: “It is important
for the airport, airline, cruise or ferry operator and their commercial partners, to understand the proportions of each customer segment that are travelling through their facilities and visiting their shops to adapt the product selection and brand portfolio”.
26 More information on the research can be obtained from m1nd-set by writing to info@m1nd-set.com.
A DIFFERENT POINT OF VIEW
PAV. 36 - STAND B10 WWW.FEDUA.COM
INTERVIEW
FEDUA A LIFESTYLE BRAND
immediately perceived and appreciated, making us easily recognizable. I have been and I still am very proud to know that an idea which was simple in itself like a paint pot, net of the complications of making it, would then be taken as an example of successful product design in various schools of design and communication in Italy and abroad, from Barcelona to Paris and even in Buenos Aires. Without me ever knowing. This was the basic idea we started out from, but it was not to be taken for granted that it would be understood. And to think that I have a degree in economics…
Interview with Luca Gonzini, CEO LG Distribution and FEDUA brand worldwide EXPORT MAGAZINE: FEDUA is a young company that in only a few years has won a noteworthy space on the nails market. Can we say that you are one of the first brands to have acted in a ‘disruptive’ way? LUCA GONZINI: We entered a mature market with a different idea on communication and outside the normal strategies. Thanks to an idea of packaging, which turned out to have great visibility and impact, we have been able to tell a true story that people
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EM: As well as having chosen unusual packaging, you opted for multichannel distribution right from the very start. Has this decision been the right one? LG: Absolutely. Nail varnish and hand and foot care products is not something that is “niche” but is part of the daily routine of every woman and, increasingly, of every man. Extending the offer moving away from “old style” concepts that work for other product categories was definitely a farsighted decision, considering then the advent of the pandemic which radically changed the way of purchasing for the majority of consumers. EM: What is your price positioning compared to other brands of nail products? LG: Our positioning is in line that our multinational competition. The high quality and visibility have allowed us to develop markets with prices in line with the most prestigious brands in the world. EM: Have you extended your product portfolio? LG: Obviously we have expanded the colour range both for the more traditional and the professional nail varnishes and we have invested heavily in the skincare category for hand and foot care, a sector that is not very developed in detail of the specific requirements by our competitors. Our Jelly Golden Mask is now a musthave an international level.
INTERVIEW
Luca Gonzini has proven in only a few years that it is possible to enter a mature market like that of nails and bring a revolutionary idea, starting from the packaging and continuing with the product, distribution and communication EM: You have grown rather rapidly; has this made you make corporate choices to be able to develop the Italian and the international market as best as possible? LG: Absolutely. Now that the storm of the pandemic has passed, a period which we used to correct some internal and product situations, I began to look for investors to accelerate the development of Fedua. By doing so, as well as opening the Australian market and shortly the Indian one and the Balkans, we are doing an operation which will let us expand the American market in grand style within the next six months with a very important project. EM: Eco-sustainability and the respect for the planet are issues that are increasingly recurrent at industrial level as well. Have you undertaken any initiatives at the level of the selection of raw materials and to reduce the environmental impact? LG: We have tried to use raw materials that are less and less polluting at the environmental level and that guarantee performances at least equal to the previous products. Unfortunately, there are major studies that indicate that the average consumer of beauty products is still more attached to the culture of the price rather than to the environment. They are, on the other hand, more linked to health and personal safety dynamics. I think it will still take a few years and above all legislation which will impose limit at international level, as well as stricter controls on cheap imported products. Claudia Stagno
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INTERVIEW
PHARMACOS ABILITY AND INNOVATION DRIVEN BY PASSION
INTERVIEW WITH VINCENZO MISITANO, PHARMACOS CEO
EXPORT MAGAZINE: Pharmacos is an important manufacturing company in the contracting sector. How has the company evolved over the years? VINCENZO MISITANO: Pharmacos was founded in 2004. In February 2020 I joined the company and in November 2021 I decided to dedicate myself wholly to this company, becoming the majority shareholder. The aim of this operation was to outline an important path of growth for a company that in recent years had already shown strong potential based above all on its capacity to produce products of quality, anticipating market trends. This potential, however, needed to be implemented in all its aspects, especially with regard to installation, management and manufacturing, with the inclusion of executives and the internalization of the whole production process.
EM: What is your programme of development based on? VM: Before answering this question, I would like to briefly summarize my personal path. For over forty years I worked for the main manufacturing company in the sector, at first in the R&D department and then reaching positions of technical management and operations and plant manager. These roles have allowed me to acquire detailed knowledge of all the aspects that form the complex of a cosmetics company, from raw materials to the processes of transformation and product industrialization, as well as all the issues that may arise within a company and above all the solutions to be provided to an international clientele. As a result, my professional path has allowed me to organize as best as possible the Pharmacos entrepreneurial path of growth, which is mainly focused on two fundamental aspects, i.e. people and the products. The arrival of new
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figures with significant experience in the sector has made it possible to create a highly professional managerial structure capable of supporting the different corporate functions, thus allowing a leaner management of the whole company and at the same time greater interaction between the departments. Furthermore, the renewal of the laboratories as well as the setting up of new areas and the acquisition of new machinery were indispensable investments to reorganize the company and make it autonomous on the production level, internalizing the production of the complete product range. EM: Your background is therefore of great help… VM: Of course, we could not have organized in only four months the new direction that we wanted to give to Pharmacos. To do so, first of all we had to boost our team, adding to the already valid elements in the company new human resources for each sector. The intention, from the very beginning, was to recruit the new figures based on the role that they would have covered in the organization: operations, the supply chain, quality assurance, the information system and any other position necessary so that a company can structure its growth. All the functions, from marketing to administration and commercial, the latter dedicated both to the Italian market and to export, are managed by strongly motivated professionals capable of supporting the growth not only of the company but also of the young resources on which the company Pharmacos has decided to focus on. As a matter of fact, our strategy lies in the creation of a varied team made up of a mixture of new talents supported by senior figures to provide an expertise in tune with the current needs. EM: What are the instruments you use to promote your growth? VM: We operate with the mentality of a medium-large company that is equipping itself with the most suitable instruments to grow, although still being a small
INTERVIEW
EM: If you were to define you ‘savoir faire’, what where would you start from? VM: As I have already said in part, our skills go from trend research carried out by the marketing to the study of new formulations by the R&D department; this allows us to create consumer-oriented products ready to be put on the market. We also propose a range of ready-to-go products that covers four areas: bulk products, semi-finished goods, assembled and turnkey. Why choose Pharmacos? Our formulations, textures and colours are unique and special, the result of our experience. We can create innovative products, with an enviable price/quality ratio. We try to win; however we do not always succeed, in this case we have the humility to ask the client for the reason. In order to be able to improve, and raise the so-called bar.
company. We focus on service and on speed to make flexibility one of our strong points; our timing is greater than the average, and this has allowed us to introduce the concept of ‘infinite capacity’, which indicates our ability to be flexible and produce from a small to large amount in a short time. We succeed in respecting and shortening the delivery times because we have opted for procurement by stock and no longer by commitment. It is certainly a strong investment which, however, allows us to practically never be without the materials for production, starting from raw materials, whose shortage, in particular in recent months, has created serious problems in our sector. We have also established a department dedicated to packaging, aimed at offering a wide variety of solutions. Besides focusing on market studies, our packaging department takes into account current requirements, in order to offer products of quality accompanied by a packaging able to satisfy the needs of the client while being perfectly suitable for the characteristics of the formulations to enhance their performance. EM: How important is it to bring innovation today? VM: It is indispensable. We formulate and make innovative products by developing unique formulations. To obtain performing products, we have to use raw materials of very high quality and exclusive technologies, alongside in-depth technical and managerial competence. We have equipped our departments to provide clients, even the most demanding ones, with products that meet the requested standards.
EM: Do you take part in international trade shows, now that these events are being held in person again? VM: We strongly believe in trade fairs, and we were affected during the pandemic by the slowdown in personal meetings, even though we were equipped to approach the market differently. 2022 will be a year where we will be present at the main trade fairs, with great expectations in regard to Cosmopack, which represents a unique occasion to meet ‘the world’, our world. We will continue throughout the year with various shows in Europe and outside Europe. Claudia Stagno
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company
BELLAGIO
A NEW FRAGRANCE FROM DIAMOND INTERNATIONAL Diamond International – a dynamic company based in Milan and belonging to the Sodico Group – has been able to interpret in a unique and intense fragrance for women - “Bellagio Eau de Parfum” – Italian production understood as synonymous with responsibility and value, excellence and creativity. Diamond Int. drawing on its role as a top player in the masstige market, thanks to important partnerships in the world of fashion, lifestyle and sport, has created a fragrance where the past and the future meet on its refined notes of great appeal.
A contemporary interpretation of a timeless Italian place There is a place at the bottom of the soul where sooner or later we all return to: it has the reflections of light of an iconic spot, with a comfortable name, as soft as a light breeze on summer evenings, like the scent of the green gardens of marvellous villas. It has the name of Bellagio, a precious pearl, lying on “that arm of Lake Como”, the timeless incipit of The Betrothed, the unique setting of a new dolce vita, in the shadow of the majestic Alpine peaks. Bellagio Eau de Parfum starts from the same incipit, from that arm of Lake Como which turns off to the south: a cocktail of worldly notes which blends the flavour of strawberry and raspberry, intense and bold, with the freshness of mandarin, as lively and intense as the glittering lights on the ripples of the lake. The sweet floral and elegant heart notes embrace and warm the timeless base notes of patchouli and musk, classic, refined and ambitious like the woman who chooses Bellagio, a unique and timeless fragrance. The very sophisticated bottle evokes the harmony of the buildings reflected on the lake’s surface, brightened by the frivolous tassel which tickles with a hint of guile, the soft pink hue of the perfume. We find this colour again in the Bellagio
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Body Cream, a lightweight and soft texture that leaves skin moisturized and pleasantly seductive. Diamond International is synonymous with excellence, experimentation in creating exclusive fragrances, highly advanced formulas and innovative packaging, to satisfy the pleasure of the senses of whoever wears them and of the brands that want to be represented by a unique emotional experience of the fragrance that excites and of precious essences that evoke unequalled atmospheres and worlds.
The licence projects –the result of close collaboration between an excellent team of marketing, R&D and the Sales area, have as their objective to offer a product of high quality, created with excellent and innovative formulations, with attention paid to every detail: from the fragrance to the packaging and the texture, the values and the style of the brand relive in the products. The brands under licence are Ducati – 1926, Ice and Sport – Fiat 500, Jeep, Romeo Gigli, Gattinoni and Henry Cotton’s.
COMPANY
A 100% natural line of quality products
So.Di.Co FOCUSES ON WITH THE
ORGANIC NATURAVERDE BIO MAKE-UP LINE
Authentic beauty and respect for the skin, these are the keywords that make the face, lips and eye make-up line of Naturaverde, a certified and organic brand of cosmetics belonging to the So.Di.Co Group, unique. The Naturaverde mission has always been to offer products of quality guaranteed by the experience in the sector of organic cosmetics and continual research in the field of dermatology. The innovative formulas – enriched with selected raw materials, such as Vitamin E, Rice Powder, Corn Starch, Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Aloe Juice and
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Carnuba Wax – together with new pigmented and highly performing colours, are the two key elements of the concept of the 100% natural line which, with its 95 references, aims at emphasizing authentic beauty, in full respect of the skin and its delicate balance.
COMPANY
by CCPB Italia, they are tested dermatologically by accredited research institutes and they do not contain Parabens, Silicones, Petroleum derivatives, Fragrances or Synthetic colourings. So.Di.Co has represented a real universe of beauty and well-being for over 30 years, which enters every home, every day, in every simple daily action. The cosmetics for body care are the result of research and careful selection of raw materials: ingredients and formulations conceived to guarantee well-being for the person and respect for the environment.
This green philosophy pervades all the elements in the collection, from the lightweight, comfortable and easily blended in textures to the sustainable packaging with a low environmental impact, from being Made in Italy to the certifications: all the formulas of the cosmetics are verified and certified
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LAUNCH
Desìo’s latest novelty is a purple contact lens. Not a purple like many others, but the Pantone color of 2022: Very Peri. The brand, a leader in colored contact lenses, has decided to pay homage to the Pantone color and create a contact lens of a periwinkle blue with a delicate red-purple undertone. Result? Purple eyes reminiscent of the legendary ones of Liz Taylor: penetrating, intense, sensual. With all things considered, it’s a safe bet that Very Peri will repeat the success of Classic Blue, the lens created in 2020 to pay homage to that year’s Pantone color.
Desìo’s new colored lens is a tribute to the Pantone color of 2022
PURPLE, A COLOR LOVED BY STARS AND ROYALS
ATTITUDE VERY PERI BY Desìo
Already widely regarded by fashion and cinema, purple in its variations, from wisteria to lilac to the very recent Very Peri, is an iconic and versatile color. Perfect for enhancing fair-skinned blondes as well as brunettes, it has always been much loved by movie stars and royals. If in more recent times we remember the purple shirts, dresses, suits and coats worn by Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle - different in style, but sharing the same love for this color time has handed over to history the extraordinarily glamorous purple looks worn by Lady D in the 90s and still very current today. And if we also combine makeup of the same color with the outfit, the result is truly top (Lady Gaga docet!).
In this scenario, in which physical reality and the virtual world merge together and open the doors to new chromatic expressions, Desìo has chosen to make this very special violet also the protagonist of the gaze. Thus was born Attitude Very Peri by Desìo, the 2-tone monthly lens that offers intense and deep purple eyes. The material with which the lenses are made, Hioxifilcon D, ensures UV protection and longlasting comfort even for sensitive eyes thanks to the high percentage of water content(54%). The lens pattern is designed to blend with the iris and give the desired eye color with a realistic and very natural effect. The color of the lens is so multifaceted and the design so sophisticated that everyone can wear Attitude Very Peri: for those with light eyes the new lens gives a delicate and bright purple, while on dark or very dark eyes it gives a deeper and more sensual color. Attitude Very Peri, like all Desìo colored contact lenses, is a safe product, ophthalmologically tested, CE certified and approved by the American FDA. Attitude Very Peri can be made in the “plano” version and with diopters from -8.00 to +4.00. Desìo colored contact lenses are on sale on the www.desiolens.com website and in the best optical shops.
VERY PERI, A MIRROR OF THE TIMES WE LIVE IN But let’s come to Very Peri. Not a purple like many others, but a color of its era. A happy fusion of all the qualities of blues and the lively and joyful attitude of the red undertone, Very Peri is “the representation of the zeitgeist of the moment and of the transition we are going through. As we emerge from an intense period of isolation, our notions and lifestyles change and our real and digital lives merge in new ways. Digital design
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helps us extend the limits of reality, opening the door to a dynamic virtual world where we can explore and create new color possibilities. Very Peri shows how color trends in the digital world manifest themselves in the physical world and vice versa”.
Model is wearing: 2 tones - INTENSE BLUE
WOULD YOU LIKE TO HAVE your own brand of successful Colored Contact Lenses? T RU S T I N Q UA L I M E D, T H E I TA L I A N C O M PA N Y O P E R AT I N G I N C O N TAC TO LO G Y S I N C E 2 0 1 1
Qualimed exclusively produces and develops colored contact lenses, with or without diopters, with the Desio brand and on behalf of third parties. Every aspect of the lens, from the choice of materials to the pattern of the lens, is studied in detail to ensure a product of the highest quality, safe, easy to wear and well tolerated even by sensitive eyes. The colored contact lenses made by Qualimed meet the customer needs, reflect market trends and fully respond to the consumer’s expectations: once worn, they allow you to get the desired eye color with an extremely realistic and natural effect. All Qualimed products are CE certified, cleared by FDA and ophthalmologist tested.
Registered office: Piazza della Radio 37, 00146 Roma - P.IVA 11653721008 - Headquarter: Via dell’Unione Europea 8, 21013 Gallarate (VA) - Italy Phone + 39 0331 162 99 10 – Fax + 39 0331 183 84 72 - www.qualimed.it - info@qualimed.it
COMPANY
QUALIMED BRINGS BEAUTY TO THE FIELD OF CONTACTOLOGY If the idea has won you over, then the partner to develop your successful line is Qualimed, an Italian company that has been operating in the field of contactology since 2011. The company exclusively produces and develops colored contact lenses, with diopters (to correct myopia, hyperopia and astigmatism) or without correction, under the Desio brand and on behalf of third parties. Every aspect of the lens, from the choice of materials to the pattern, is studied in detail to ensure a very high quality product, safe, easy to wear and well tolerated even by sensitive eyes, thanks to the chosen materials and the workmanship. The lenses made by Qualimed reflect market trends in terms of colors, comfort, ease of use and fully meet customer expectations: in fact, once worn, they allow the wearer to obtain the desired eye color with an extremely realistic and natural effect. All Qualimed products are CE certified, approved by FDA and ophthalmologically tested to ensure maximum comfort even for those with sensitive and delicate eyes.
Rely on the leading Italian colored contact lens company Qualimed, to give intensity to your gaze Today the eyes and the gaze are the center of attention. So why not focus on a line of colored contact lenses under your own brand, comfortable to wear and of high quality, to conquer a range of consumers who want to give intensity to their gaze in an easy and safe way? Lenses to be worn not only on “special” occasions, but also habitually, as an alternative to traditional glasses or colorless lenses.
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company
PRODUCed IN ITALY
Qualimed’s identity
Qualimed began in 2011 from the creativity and intuition of Tereza Uhrova who, combined her passion for fashion, beauty and elegance with her long experience in the field of contactology to create a brand of colored contact lenses, Desio. Capable of combining design, a natural result, perfect dioptric correction, safety and maximum comfort in a unique way. The leading brand is present in Europe, South America, the Middle East and the USA and registered in over 150 countries. The main feature of Desio, and more generally of Qualimed products, is the attention to detail, which is reflected in the design and quality of the lenses and in the wide range of colors. Elements that have allowed the company to grow and establish itself around the world.
The next appointment for Qualimed will be at MIDO 2022, an international event dedicated to global eye-wear to be held at Fiera Milano Rho from April 30th to May 2nd, Hall 15 - stand M27 N40
Qualimed, which just last year celebrated its first 10 years of activity, in the course of 2022 will move to a new modern and functional over 3,000 square meters headquarters, with the aim of further developing its business and production “ third parties”. The distinctive assets of the company? Strong segment expertise, high lens quality and competitive time-to-market. Qualimed aims to increase its sales volume by more than 50% by the end of 2025, from nearly 3 million to more than 4,500,000 colored contact lenses sold each year. “The move to the new headquarters will allow us to rationalize the organizational structure and to achieve the growth objectives that we have set ourselves for the next few years - explains Tereza Uhrova, CEO & founder -. The new headquarters will cover an area of over 3,000 square meters, of which 1,000 will be dedicated to production. The important investments in the production area and in the tools for controlling the optical power and geometry of the lenses will allow us to ensure a high level of control over the quality of the final product. Further investments will be made in R&D for the creation of new geometries, new colors and materials. The company objectives are also aimed at certifying all products according to the new European MDR regulation by 2023“. The numbers recorded in 2021 and 2020 demonstrate the solidity of the company: despite the pandemic, in 2020 Qualimed recorded a + 18% (vs 2019) and in 2021 the turnover grew again, closing at + 15.4% compared to the previous year. This is thanks to a business model focused on an attentive and punctual quality service, on selective distribution, on the supervision of the digital channel and on a constantly evolving product portfolio. “Since our debut on the market ten years ago, we have wanted to differentiate ourselves from our competitors by focusing exclusively on the colored contact lens segment and offering an assortment of unique iris designs, colors and refractive powers. A strategy that proved to be successful because the pattern of the lenses, the quality of the materials and the visual comfort have become our ‘trademark’ and the secret of the success of our products“.
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EVENTS
Cosmoprof North America
A new venue in Las Vegas for the US show From Tuesday July 12 to Thursday July 14 inclusive, the largest B2B beauty exhibition in the Americas will be hosted at the Las Vegas Convention Center (LVCC) in Las Vegas, Nevada. With the return to business, the beauty industry is adopting and advancing to support the newfound optimism and opportunities for growth in the United States. Cosmoprof North America will be once again opening its doors and providing attendees with an exhilarating show experience to learn and share the most important new developments in the industry. This year, the show has a new two hall format. For the first time Cosmopack North America, the only event in the Americas fully dedicated to the entire beauty supply chain, will have its own dedicated North Hall. At Cosmopack, visitors can discover innovative ingredients, raw materials, packaging, cutting-edge components, technological advances and more to take brands from concept to creation. Also featured is a dedicated Cosmopack Buyer Lounge, special activations, and
on the floor education complementary to exhibitors and attendees. Dedicated to finished products, the Cosmoprof North America West Hall will feature four macro sectors of Hair Care, Skin Care & Make-up, Nails, and Natural Products. Country Pavilions will showcase authentic elements and innovations from countries recognized for their strong heritage in beauty.
Featuring the returns… Returning this year are special areas dedicated to curated exhibitors including Discover Beauty, Discover Beauty Spotlights, Discover Green and The Beauty Vanities. Also returning are Cosmoprof North America special projects, including Boutique, a oneof-a-kind beauty sampling bar, the Buyer Program, which encourages networking between exhibitors and top buyers, Cosmoprof and Cosmopack North America Awards, CosmoTrends, Mentorship Program, and Press Zone. Cosmo Talks’ wide-ranging seminars and workshops that combine creativity, inspiration and business will be hosted by powerhouses such as NPD, FIT, Spate, Insider’s Guide to Spas, and BEAUTYSTREAMS amongst others. With more than 20 seminars and workshops, it aims to be the widest ranging series of conferences and in-depth talks in the beauty industry.
New initiatives Several initiatives are new in 2022, starting with Discover Black-Owned Beauty. This personalized curated display area is specially created for Black-owned beauty brands seeking access to market opportunities, educational resources, retail distribution and brand exposure. Curators Adrienne Mason and Maria Torres created the Beauty International Group with the intention of ensuring Black-owned beauty brands have access to investment capital, retail distribution, logistics and valuable industry know-how. This area facilitates retailers’ commitment to the “15% pledge” which asks businesses to dedicate 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned brands.
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THE LEADING B2B BEAUTY EVENT IN THE AMERICAS, DEDICATED TO ALL SECTORS OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY COSMOPROFNORTHAMERICA.COM NEW VENUE LAS VEGAS LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER (LVCC) JULY 12 – 14, 2022
REGISTER BY MAY 27 AND SAVE UP TO 25%
SALES OFFICE US, CANADA AND MEXICO PBA, Scottsdale, AZ, USA P +1 480 281 0424 F +1 480 905 0708 sales@probeauty.org
SALES OFFICE EUROPE, AFRICA, MIDDLE EAST, ASIA AND SOUTH AMERICA BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 international@cosmoprof.it
MARKETING AND PROMOTION BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it
A NEW WORLD FOR BEAUTY BOLOGNA, HONG KONG, LAS VEGAS, MUMBAI, BANGKOK
ORGANIZER – NORTH AMERICAN BEAUTY EVENTS LLC
REPORT
ETHICALLY CORRECT The consumers’ holistic eco demands
The definition of what ethical means continues to expand. As vegan, cruelty-free, and Fairtrade claims have become baseline, especially in the Western markets, companies today are coming under increased scrutiny for the way they treat employees and execute their full supply chains. Consumers are beginning to judge ethical correctness not only by the “made in” label and origin of a product’s raw materials, but also by its “made by” aspect, i.e. who is behind the production, and how are these individuals being treated? This also applies to ethnic and gender equality. Going forward, consumers will value companies that don’t push for excessive consumerism, that have clear goals for circular economies, and that engage in restorative actions to repair past ecological “sins.” The prominent movement for Ethical Correctness requires brands to demonstrate impeccable ethical behavior in all aspects, and this demand is continuing to gain importance as consumers are increasingly conscious of a more holistic approach to their purchasing habits and the industry as a whole. It is clear that society is going through seismic changes and reinventing its rules. Will this lead to a “reset-all” of our traditional standards? At BEAUTYSTREAMS, we have identified five territories that will drive ethical consumer behavior in the coming two years.
Active Contribution Imagine a brand that is harnessing the power of its community to take a public stand on social, political, and sustainability issues. At Beautycounter, an early clean beauty proponent, that strategy has helped the company to attain $1billion in value. The Californiabased brand is a frequent visitor to U.S. Congress and has helped pass legislation on clean ingredients and transparency, directly impacting local communities in its home state. Beautycounter has cut over 1,800 harmful ingredients from its formulations, which it has found are disproportionally affecting women of color, something it considers both unethical and unjust.
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And its ethical actions are paying off. According to World’s Most Ethical Companies® index, honorees have historically outperformed others financially, demonstrating the market value correlation between ethical practices and performance. At Beautycounter, this translated into sales soaring by an estimated 20% to more than $500 in 2020, a pandemic year, which many found challenging.
All Together Society is witnessing a rise in minority populations, an increase of inter-racial marriages and migration, and a clear rise in a willingness to assert one’s individuality. We are finally entering the age of full equality with regard to gender identity, ethnic background, age, religious beliefs, sexual orientation, and special needs. Creating inclusive cultures that value difference means avoiding terms such as “multicultural” or “ethnic” to designate nonCaucasians because true multiculturalism includes everyone. Increasingly, brands are addressing needs rather than ethnicity – cue hair products, for example, that are designated for “tight curls “as opposed to “Afro hair.” Positive examples include: DEPIXYM’s highly-pigmented cosmetics which celebrate the idea of self-discovery, regardless of race or gender, through the power of make-up. “We got tired,” saythe brand’s founders. “Tired of everything being positioned to within an inch of its life... We wanted to launch epic products, for people. That’s it. No positioning. No gender. No rules.” The discussion around gender has become louder over the past few years with politics and corporations now deploying further initiatives to help abolish the cliché of “human identity definition through sexual identity only.” Note that more than half of Gen Zs agree that gender is non-binary. Meanwhile in fashion, the industry is leading efforts to address consumer concerns about non-standard body types, as seen on the latest round of runway shows. Brands are increasingly recognizing the market significance of those with disabilities, too. Considering that one billion people around the world live with some form of
REPORT disability, making up around 15% of the global population, the opportunities for innovative product development are plentiful. Even when it comes to product packaging, inclusivity is key. Think disability-friendly designs, e.g. using symbols and braille, easy-toopen mechanisms, and ergonomic tools. To wit: Olay developed their Easy Open Lid – a winged lid with imprinted braille, for those who struggle with grip or who are visually impaired. The brand has chosen not to patent this lid, but rather to share the design with the rest of the beauty community, and is also offering the lid to consumers at no additional cost.
Cultural Sensitivity In order to genuinely understand and address consumers it is key to reflect our diverse society within the product development, and, on a human level, within the marketing teams themselves. Only a team that lives and breathes like the society it targets will be culturally sensitive enough to successfully address consumers who look for authenticity and transparency.
The Latinx (used as a gender-neutral term to describe people of Latin-American origin, mostly in the U.S.) community especially is seeing a surge in attention. With Latinx consumers in the U.S. spending 13% more than the national average consumer on beauty and personal care products, and with their overall beauty spending expected to top $1.9 trillion by 2023, the market has seen a notable rise in Latinx celebrities, influencers, and entrepreneurs launching brands that champion the richness of the Latin culture through heritage ingredients and local pride. Cue Rare Beauty, LU LatinUS Beauty, Treslúce Beauty, to name but a few.
From “Made in” to “Made by”
A truly multicultural brand goes beyond the expected lineup of models and influencers with a spectrum of skin shades and gender identities, and incorporates cultural sensitivity in product development and communication at the base level, and this includes a plethora of religious beliefs, too. Takes cues from Australian beauty brand Sienna Byron Bay which launched a collection of nail polishes that are Wudu-friendly, meaning: because their new formula is water- permeable, it is compatible with the cleansing ritual practiced by individuals of the Muslim faith, an aspect that is often overlooked. White-centric ideals of beauty have long dominated the mainstream skin care industry, driving a significant lack of inclusion and representation in terms of care for darker skin, when in fact the distinct physiological characteristics of melaninrich skin demand a more targeted skin care routine that treats and caters to its special requirements. Since melanin-rich skin can display various common skin conditions differently than white skin, it is also more reactive and prone to forms of trauma and inflammation which can lead to the likes of hyperpigmentation, acne, and over-active scarring, among other issues. Consider that by 2050, what are now minority populations are expected to constitute the majority of the United States. And, by 2045, “white” individuals are slated to account for only 49.7% of the population while those who identify as Hispanic and Black will represent 24.6% and 13.1% respectively. In fact, Gen Z already boasts a non-white majority in the US.
Consumers are closely watching how employers are treating workers, especially in difficult times of crisis, and this influences their purchases. 65% of people say that a company’s actions will likely impact which brands they decide to purchase in the future, according to a survey by People magazine’s Insider Panel. The survey also found that more than 89% are monitoring the treatment of employees by the companies they work for, and watching whether corporations lay off workers, offer paid sick days, give back to their communities, etc. Showing the people behind a brand, for example, those involved in product development, helps humanize the brand and create a direct link to the target consumer (the “made by” factor). Cue Beco, the soap company with a disabled workforce (accounting for a whopping 80% of its staff), which invites businesses to “Steal Our Staff” in a campaign that works to help close the disability employment gap. Far-sighted brands are supporting local communities where they sell their products. Engaging in collaborations with hyperlocal non-profit organizations is only one way to show genuine support. The implementation of educational programs and the integration of local companies and individuals in the supply chain also highlights the will to solve the problem long-term from the bottom up, instead of simply “buying a good conscious” to look good. Others such as Lush are 10% employee-owned, instilling great value in its “made by” factor.
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REPORT
Restorative Actions The time is now to set realistic yet ambitious goals to not just reduce or eliminate waste, but actively reuse it. This requires reimagining what waste is, and how it should be addressed. Transparency is key. There is a groundswell of philanthropic actions designed to “repair” past mistakes. These include brands erasing their carbon footprint since their inception with the goal of becoming carbon-positive (going beyond achieving net zero-carbon emissions in order to create an environmental benefit by removing additional carbon dioxide from the atmosphere). Eco-aware brands are avoiding aggressive seasonal communication to push “new stuff” and are focusing on a “fewer but better” approach, namely developing evergreen collections that stand the test of time as well as favoring small-batch production which effectively curbs overproduction. To wit: Tropic is certified CarbonNeutral® and has doubled its offset emissions since 2018, meaning the brand removes twice the amount of greenhouse gases from the atmosphere than it emits. All the energy used on site is obtained from 100% renewable resources and the brand is also completely landfill-free. In 2020, Tropic recycled 122 tons which equated to 65% of all their total waste. Anything they can’t recycle is repurposed into an alternative fuel (which replaces fossil fuels) to power homes and businesses. All of the energy used to do so, such as all aspects of their operations, creates a double carbon offset. The brand also funds sustainable projects in order to counteract the greenhouse gases it emits through essential business activities and it invests in the Acre Amazonian Rainforest Conservation project in South America – an initiative which aims to protect biodiverse habitats by preventing deforestation across 105,000 hectares of pristine forest. Tropic also started supporting The Rimba Raya Biodiversity Reserve in 2019, which works with local communities to protect 65,000 hectares of forests in Indonesia from the threat of unsustainable palm oil conversion. Moreover, they have closed the gender pay gap, and have established a first aid program for mental health in every department to ensure their employee’s mental well-being. An impressive niche brand pushing the envelope forward in the ingredients department is Seilich, the UK’s first Wildlife-friendlycertified company, which goes beyond “just” organic. Run by
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botanist Sally Gouldstone as a “pro-nature business,” this Scottish brand grows natural ingredients on its own wildflower meadow (#grownnotflown), which it intends to expand to 7 acres this year. This will provide habitat for around 20 million wildflowers, support thousands of pollinating insects, and sink around 641kg of carbon every single year. Customers can become so-called Seilich supporters, and get treats in return. Seilich is also one of the few beauty companies that openly address the issue of essential oils, considered to be one of the most unsustainable ingredients in the industry. They use high-quality flower waters instead, which through their wildlife-friendly practices augment in potency – and that’s how the system comes full circle. The growing frequency of climate emergencies highlights that reversing climate change is not an option, but a duty, with both consumers and corporations waking up to the fact that their behaviors and consumption habits have a direct impact on the planet and therefore their own businesses as well as their quality of life. This has started long before the global pandemic, which however has accelerated conscious consumerism, and here especially the consumer demand for organic and sustainable products as well as production methods. During the pandemic consumers have started putting their health and immune systems at the forefront of their purchasing decisions, and have taken a more critical stance towards consumption in general. These factors are expected to continue to accelerate change across industries. This appetite for change is also reflected among beauty professionals. 55% of those beauty industry professionals surveyed by BEAUTYSTREAMS’ non-profit organization Openstreams Foundation believe that the industry’s immediate sustainability priorities are reducing packaging and using sustainable materials. The market for sustainable products is forecast to grow exponentially over the next five years, making it an even more logical decision for companies to invest in ecofriendly and ethical business practices, production, as well as sourcing options. The mantra is: Invest now or pay later.
ABOUT BEAUTYSTREAMS: BEAUTYSTREAMS is the go-to insights platform for the global beauty industry. With a team of over two-hundred collaborators on five continents it is the key reference point for strategy, product development, and marketing teams worldwide.
COMPANY
NOUBA Self-confident make-up The over 40 years of experience in the sector have not only been functional for Nouba in asserting and reaching its status as a recognized cosmetic brand guaranteed for its solidity; over the years the brand has learned the importance of evolving, and has taken advantage of its solid structure to follow process and innovation. In particular, the past few years have helped to implement a change which today the brand has incorporated as a vision, aimed at sustainability and attention towards the final consumer with a more exciting and complete communication. This is a vision that Nouba offers and concretizes at various levels therefore, faithful to the promises of 2021, innovation guides research towards products that are increasingly natural and sustainable, the focus remains on the product but attains a higher level emphasizing the value that it can give to those who choose it. Choosing Nouba today has an even more important significance, not only a certainty in the quality and performance of the product: choosing Nouba today means adopting values such as self-confidence, and choosing to express your beauty in its most natural form.
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COMPANY
YOUPHOR I A This vision is concretized in 2022 with the launch of the new Youphoria collection, through which women can take care of themselves and express their essence to the maximum, besides, isn’t it our imperfections which also make us unique? Choosing ourselves for Nouba means accepting and exalting our characteristics and the products in the new Youphoria collection are instruments to reach this objective. The “no make-up make-up”, the most up-to-date and sophisticated trend of the year, is based on choices of products with a minimalist finish, warm and natural. It is sufficient to think of one of our most awaited products in the new collection: Pretty wet - face glow up is a primer but it can also be used as a highlighter, it can be applied on the eyelids or on the lips to obtain a wet look, it can be mixed with foundation to obtain a natural and radiant base for the face. It is a product that gives a smooth and replumped effect to the skin and in combination with our Soft compact in the two shades: soft honey and pale banana, it gives the wearer a sophisticated finish for a timeless appeal. The face base us therefore fresh, radianeyest and with a healthy appearance. For the lip world we find Noubalm, a lip balm that is positioned in care make-up for the care and hydration it gives the wearer. A must-have of the collection is Burn baby burn, a lip plumper which gently succeeds in emphasizing the volume and the fullness of the lips, giving a gloss effect with nude shades. The natural look is defined in the “warmed cheeks” and in the naturally coloured lips with our Chimera, a “mock” black lipstick, completely covered by microbeads, which reacting to
the pH of the lips gives every woman a unique colour. The product, which is made up for 92% of natural ingredients, can also be applied on other parts of the face, for example as a blush for naturally coloured and bright cheeks but also as an eye shadow on the upper lid. Since the face mask has become a “must-have” accessory, make-up, in all its simplicity or excess, has focused on eyes, so the new collection has to include Skeyeliner, a waterproof and long-lasting eyeliner which is applied on the eyes to create lines which go from the ultra-fine to bold, from intense colour and elongated and/or geometric thanks to the ultra-fine felt tip. To enrich the eyes and attain a natural look in the day and intense in the evening, the Urban Soul and Free Spirit palettes propose 9 eye shadows in matte, pearly and metallic shades to play with and blend together extremely easily thanks to their soft and light textures. The new collection therefore leads to a process of “glowing up” which is not only for those who choose Youphoria products, but is a process that the brand itself is living through extremely successfully. This evolution brings with it the attention in the choice of raw materials, up to obtaining products with formulas that are clean, incredibly simple and effective and the focus on the force of the colours which are used to represent the real essence of the beauty of those who use Nouba products. 2022 represents for Nouba a moment of fundamental importance, a moment of rebirth, starting from the origins of the brand. With the relaunch of the most iconic Nouba product, completely redesigned in a modern and sustainable packaging, the brand reconfirms its strategy of repositioning towards an approach that is increasingly attention to the planet. The appointment is for May 2022, stay tuned!
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HSA
INTERVIEW
AN IMPORTANT OPERATION TO STRENGHTEN INTERNATIONAL RECOGNIZABILITY
INTERVIEW WITH Stefano Zanzi, HSA CEO EXPORT MAGAZINE: Recently there has been a change in the shareholding of your company. Can you illustrate this to us? STEFANO ZANZI: Last December, after a long preparation, we announced the conclusion of an important operation for our company. Tec Beauty Spa-The Equity club, which is a private investment company, supported by some of the most important Italian entrepreneurial families and by Mediobanca, joined the Board with a majority shareholding. Such an important step definitely marks a new phase in our history, in which we can further support the growth that has distinguished us in recent years, but accelerating some processes of innovation as well as the penetration of some new markets or channels. EM: What were the main aims of this operation, but where your family is still present? SZ: Throughout 2021 we evaluated several investment funds, but we confirmed entering into a partnership with Tec Beauty for the peculiarity of the project that they presented. Personally, I did not want to do a mere financial operation but I was looking for one or more entities with whim to develop a beauty pole made up of several companies all focused on cosmetic products, whether for hair care or skincare or even make-up and fragrances. The idea was not to change the nature of the vocation of H.S.A., but to strengthen its international
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recognizability thanks to an all-round offer in the world of beauty. The new boost of the company will take pace supported by well outlined strategic pilasters: 1-extension of the offer of products, 2-greater penetration of some key markets such as the USA and China, 3-collaboration with the rapidly growing community of independent brands, 4-support and expansion of our brands. To attain these objectives, my brother Davide and I remain fully committed to the company and keep our current managerial roles, providing continuity and guaranteeing an integrated development coherent with our values and our history which began 40 years ago. EM: HSA started as a company specialized in professional hair care, both as a private label and with its own brands. How has it evolved over time? SZ: For the first decades of its history, H.S.A. was always focused on the creation and production of professional products for hair, with regard to the world of colour then becoming, at global level, one of the most sought-after players for permanent or semi-permanent colouring. Over the years, extending our presence and recognizability, we have also developed all the hair care products, to give an answer to the various needs of care or style of clients all over the world; to keep high the level of innovation and quality, we have therefore created several vertically specialized laboratories, i.e. r&d colour, r&d hair care and a few years ago r&d skin care as well to complete our cosmetic offer. Despite the problems caused by Covid 19, the sector of hair products has seen an important growth with respect to other categories, with growth both in the professional sector and above all in home care. Very many new brands have come into being in the world of hair and are establishing themselves and conquering space in channels such as online, department stores, perfumeries and pharmacies. This development, unthinkable until a few years ago, represents an important opportunity for our company which is increasingly interested in
INTERVIEW
HSA enters a new phase of its story to propose an all-round offer in the world of beauty, characterized by innovation davide Zanzi products linked to the care of the scalp, regeneration and protection of damaged hair or to fight specific issues such as dandruff, sensitive skin or fragile hair. EM: This operation certainly strengthens your presence on the beauty market. Do you expect to implement new strategies in the short- medium-term? SZ: With the new partners of Tec Beauty, we are defining both the short-term and the medium- and long-term strategies. They include various corporate areas, from the supply chain, to digitization and product development. In the immediate. We are already extending our client base, especially private label, thanks to a wide-range commercial and product strategy, coming into contact with companies and brands that not necessarily belong to the professional sector, but which are present on the market place and in e-commerce or in brick-and-mortar concept stores or chains which are moving towards independent brands. We have organized ourselves with great determination and effort, conceiving new product categories that will be presented at Cosmoprof in Bologna in the new space that we have called Innovation Hub. It is an area dedicated exclusively to the world of private label, where it will be possible to interact with clients and develop together innovative products which reflect the trends or even anticipate them! EM: Is the fact of being made in Italy still a factor of success on international markets? SZ: The importance of Italian production, more than established in some sectors such as food, fashion and design, is still not so clear in the beauty sector, even though the turnover definitely has a high value in the country’s trade balance. Those who work in our industry know perfectly well that Italian products are synonymous with quality, creation and innovation, but this perception is not yet so deeply rooted in the final consumer. This is because the Italian private label companies have only recently started to present
themselves to the world as a united and solid sector, communicating the values and the capacities and the dizzying numbers that we actually create. Few know, for example, that more than half the colour cosmetics at world level are made in Italy. The fact of being made in Italy is and will be an even stronger factor of success if we also innovate at the level of communication and not only of the product.
EM: Will you be taking part I trade fairs, now that the majority of the shows will again be with physical attendance? SZ: The participation in events and trade shows, totally reduced to zero in the past couple of years, is obviously subject to our analysis in this period of reopening. There will be budgets dedicated to the shows in the commercial and marketing strategies that will help us to improve the contact with potential clients like Cosmoprof Bologna Worldwide, Beautyworld Middle East, Cosmoprof Asia, China Beauty Expo, but also new fairs for us such as the PLMA in Amsterdam or other events dedicated to independent brands. We are carefully assessing new distribution channels so some shows that are not linked only with the professional world will help us understand the market better, meet the companies directly and their buyers or product development managers. In short, the digital world represents an important slice of our budget but we are not overlooking the live contact that only a trade fair can offer. Claudia Stagno
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COMPANY
S4P
A COLLECTION OF FRAGRANCES INSPIRED BY THE NOBLEST DESIRE
Celso Fadelli, President and Fragrance Curator of INTERTRADE GROUP 58
Celso Fadelli, President and Fragrance Curator of Intertrade Group, is introducing a timely and highly ambitious project celebrating science and one of the most sought after states of being: Peace. Conceived by Umberto Veronesi, in collaboration with the Veronesi Foundation with the mission of devising and implementing scientific solutions that promote peace- Twenty-one Nobel laureates and scientists from different countries, including some of the most renowned personalities in the world, responded enthusiastically to the initiative. “Science for Peace” has two main objectives: the fusion of a culture of Peace with the overcoming of tensions between
States, and the progressive reduction of military expenses in favour if investment in research and development. The idea that science can promote and work for peace is reflected in the mission of the S4P fragrance project, which is to make Peace immediately perceivable and recognizable, reflecting on how “Science is a wind that inspires good, freedom, dignity and quality of life.” The four fragrances have been named after four winds that represent the breath of our planet. These four rare scents reflect the sacred nature of knowledge inspired by the desire for Peace, the invisible memory of beauty and hope for life.
The fragrances Aurisse is a wind blowing inland from the southern coast of France: it announces brief changes in weather and expected meteorological events after warm and sunny days. It comes from the sea at 15-20 knots, cooling the air and transporting intense salty aromas, while intensifying their ozonated notes.
COMPANY
The wish for peace is behind this quartet of exquisite fragrances The tope notes of Petit Grain, White Rose and Pink Pepper prepare the way for the heart of Grapefruit, Bitter Orange and Line. In the base, Basil leaves, Geranium, Mint, White Amber, White Cedar and Incense put their seal on the fragrance. Sharky is a warm and dry wind that blows from the east or south-east, typical of Morocco, and is most frequent in the summer. In the re-Saharan region, its persistence and temperatures can rise considerably. In the winter, it is colder and less frequent. The fragrance opens with delicious Fig Leaves, ^White Rose and Lilac Buds. The heart is floral and sensual with Jasmine, Musk and Amber, wile the base notes of Vanilla, Sandalwood and Cedarwood add depth and persistence. Laawan is a wind that blows from west to east, known as “the helper” because it helps farmers air their precious wheat grains before threshing. Warm and reassuring, as it is heated by the sun, this wind distributes energy to men and nature, helping them to flourish and proliferate. Its top notes are fresh and piquant, with Pink Pepper Grapefruit Peel and Iris. The heart is soft with Ylang Ylang, White Wood and Jasmine, and the base notes add sensuality and warmth, with Musk, White Amber and Cedarwood. Skiron (or Skeiron) is associated with ancient Greek mythology and specifically Skiron, the ruler of the north-western
winds. He is portrayed as a bearded man tilting a cauldron, which represents the start of winter. The top notes of Sage, Chinese Cinnamon and Almond Flowers are gentle and welcoming, the Heart notes of Zanzibar Carnation, Myrrh, Wisteria, Palmarose and Opoponax add mystery yet in a lighthearted way, and the base notes add depth and sweetness, with Guaiac Wood, Vanilla Absolute, Sandalwood and Cedar. The bottle’s “attire” and packaging are by visual designer Simone Micheli. His interpretation expresses an ethereal feeling of balance and freedom, achieved through a candid and essential extension of the senses. An inspiration that opens the mind and leads it to unexplored places, where life frees itself from the slavery of ignorance and pain.
Fragrances are available on the webstore: www.averyperfumegallery.com
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#LuxePack
3rd International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair Home Care, Private Label, Packaging and Ingredients
October 13 - 14 - 15, 2022
ICC - Istanbul Congress Center & ICEC - Istanbul Lutfi Kirdar / Taksim, Istanbul
Now in Tel: +90 212 2229060
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2 Venues
+90 533 4843030
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info@beauty-istanbul.com
3rd International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair Home Care, Private Label, Packaging and Ingredients
October 13 - 14 - 15, 2022
ICC - Istanbul Congress Center & ICEC - Istanbul Lutfi Kirdar Taksim, Istanbul - Turkey
ICE COLLECTIVE PARTICIPATION AT
BEAUTYISTANBUL 2022
Following the success of 45 Italian exhibitors at 2021 edition, meeting qualified buyers from 152 countries and reaching the world markets in Istanbul, we are delighted to announce that ICE-Italian Trade Agency will organize a collective participation to BEAUTYISTANBUL 2022 with 800sqm and 60 companies.
In addition to the 30 confirmed individual exhibitors as of March 2022, ICE Pavilion will bring around total Italian exhibitors count for 2022 edition to 90 companies, a record high for Italian participation at exhibitions abroad!
You are also invited to join Italian companies exhibiting at BEAUTYISTANBUL 2022, for lucrative opportunities to export all around the globe, from a single place: Istanbul!
3rd edition of BEAUTYISTANBUL International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair, Home Care, Private Label, Packaging and Ingredients will be held on 13-14-15 October 2022 at Istanbul Congress Center and Lutfi Kirdar in Taksim, Istanbul-Turkey. ASTRA MAKE-UP
BEAUTYLAND POINT
BEST COLOR
CARTACOR ITALIA
CERIOTTI
www.astramakeup.com
www.artisthaircare.com
www.bestcolor.it
www.cartacoritalia.com
www.ceriotti.it
CHRISTINE MOR
COMPROF MILANO
COSM&TIC ASSIST
COSM.O SRL
COTRIL SPA
www.christinemor.eu
www.comprofmilano.it
www.cosmeticassist.com
www.cosmohairproduct.it
www.cotril.it
DCM DIAPASON COSMETICS
EUROVETROCAP
EXPORT MAGAZINE
FARMEN - VITALITY’S
GERARD’S
www.diapasoncosmetics.com
www.eurovetrocap.com
www.exportmagazine.net
www.farmenspa.com
www.gerards.it
ICC SRL
INDUSTRIE PAGODA
INFINITY MAKE UP
INTERCOSMETICS GROUP
LA DISPENSA
www.icc-italy.com
www.industriepagoda.it
www.infinitymakeup.it
www.intercosmeticsgroup.com
www.ladispensabellusco.it
LACA TRADE
MARCHESINI GROUP
MAZZONI LB SOAP
MYOSOTIS - ORISING
OYSTER COSMETICS
www.lacatrade.com
www.marchesini.com
www.mazzonilb.it
www.orising.it
www.oystercosmetics.it
OZONO HEALTH & BEAUTY
PROCOSMET SRL
RENEE BLANCHE
VITALFARCO SRL
VIVIPHARMA SPA
www.ozono-hb.it
www.procosmet.com
www.reneeblanche.it
www.vitalfarco.com
www.vivipharma.com
www.beauty-istanbul.com For more information:
info@beauty-istanbul.com - +90 212 222 90 60 Organizer
EVENTS
TFWA ASIA PACIFIC THE FIRST LIVE NETWORKING EVENT IN TWO YEARS Marina Bay Sands Expo & Convention Centre in Singapore is the venue from 9 to 11 May of the TFWA Asia Pacific Live networking event, giving the duty free and travel retail industry the opportunity for in-person networking after the pandemic. The event is also being sponsored by the Asia Pacific Travel Retail Association and the Singapore Tourism Board.
Wednesday’s workshops start with one on the State of the travel market in Asia Pacific, exploring retail, tourism and air traffic trends in Asia Pacific, along with emerging destinations and traveller preferences. In the afternoon, a discussion on Sustainable Futures will be held. It will draw on a recent major consumer study by travel research consultancy, mind-set and explore what sustainability truly means for shoppers across the region, hearing from brands and retailers on how they are adapting their own business models to meet the expectations of consumers and business partners. Lastly, a Digital Transformation in Southeast Asia workshop will be held on Wednesday afternoon. Dhruv Vohra and Praneeth Yendamuri, authors of the report ‘Southeast Asia, the home for digital transformation’ will share their insights on how migration from offline to online will shape consumers’ way of life in post-pandemic Asia and how brands and consumers will interact in the future.
An opportunity for in-person networking for the duty free and travel retail industry
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The workshops
TFWA One2One meetings
Six workshops will be held on Tuesday May 10 ad Wednesday May 11. Beginning with the Opening Plenary Session featuring addresses from TFWA President Erik Juul Mortensen and APTRA President Sunil Tuli. There will be a talk by Dr Ayesha Khanna on how new technologies and modes of consumption are changing the way brands are bought and sold. In the afternoon, there will be a Focus on India workshop. The third and final workshop of the day will be the APTRA Exchange, a knowledge-sharing session in the APTRA members and their business partners will be updated on the current status of the duty free and travel retail industry in Asia Pacific.
In between workshops, delegates are encouraged to conduct face-to-face formal conversations using the TFWA ONE2ONE meeting facilities. In order to do so, attendees can register for the event, complete a form during the registration process to confirm heir interest in the meeting service and get targeted ONE2ONE Business Meetings prior to the event. Delegates can then confirm when they are available for meetings and select the workshop sessions they would like to attend to avoid overlap. Delegates will have access to their Business Meetings Agenda by the end of April and the TFWA team will ensure meetings run smoothing on-site.
29 & 30 June 2022 | Paris Expo Porte de Versailles
Innovate and connect at the world’s leading beauty packaging event
REGISTER TODAY AT
PARISPACKAGINGWEEK.COM Your registration code: EM22
Part of
Co-located with
EVENTS
PCD Milan The countdown to the first edition of PCD Milan has officially started Since its launch in Paris in 2001, PCD has become the world’s leading event for the beauty packaging community. For more than 20 years, PCD has been the driving force in packaging innovation for fragrance, cosmetics and personal care products. Packaging Première and PCD Milan - both part of the Easyfairs group - will be the crucial moment to create new connections and enhance the entire packaging supply chain, of which PCD represents the excellence for primary packaging. These are the main objectives of the two events, which will be held at Fieramilanocity, Hall 4.
Packaging of Perfume, Cosmetics packaging innovation, launches its Italian edition which will be held along with Packaging Première from 24 to 26 May 2022 66
About Packaging Première
& Design, the driving force in beauty
“We are very proud to be able to organise in Milan the Italian edition of an event that has made packaging history at an international level. An important city like Milan is strategic for sectors that represent the excellence of Made in Italy, such as cosmetics, and can be a springboard for the growth of exhibiting brands in the Italian market and not only,” says Pier Paolo Ponchia, Founder and Director of Packaging Première. “With this event we continue to pursue our goal of creating unique experiences for our community, which follows us in the initiatives we carry out throughout the year and through our social channels”. Exhibitors will include suppliers of airless systems, bottles, caps, contract manufacturing and filling, design, artwork and 3D printing, glass packaging, labels and label materials, sampling technologies, tubes and pouches, valves and pumps and more. The current list includes the following brands: ACTI PAK, ADVANCED TRACK & TRACE, ALBIS PLASTIC ITALIA, AMERI, BARALAN, BERRY M&H | Berry PET Power, BRIVAPLAST GROUP, CAPS&FASHION BY CORNA & FRATUS, COVERPLA, CTLPACK, DEKORGLASS DZIALDOWO, DESJARDIN, DISCOS, ELIDOSE, ENVASES GROUP, ESTAL, FACA PACKAGING, FLEXPET, GERRESHEIMER, HEINZ-GLAS, HOPF PACKAGING, INCA, INTERKAP, LAJOVIC TUBA, LIVINGCAP SOCIETÀ BENEFIT, LUMSON, LPI Europe, LVM PRINTING MACHINE, MAV PACKAGING, MC&CO, MYC, Nuova Algis, OFFICINA TOTI, OVERPRINT GROUP, SERIPLAST, SURICATE, TANKLUX, VAL LAQUAGE, VALMATIC. Packaging Première is the selective exhibition dedicated to designers and manufacturers of luxury packaging; and to major international brands who entrust the safekeeping of their products to packs that bear the tangible, unmistakeable mark of luxury. The world of luxury is visionary and needs to be ahead of its time, of seasons and tastes; Packaging Première creates an environment where creators of luxury products experience that vision. The event highlights the latest new products and launches, provides opportunities for experimentation and innovation, and helps managers understand trends and speeds up decision-making so brands can get their products to market first. The show treats luxury packaging as a world unto itself. It is a world where brands have a strong personality; a world where packaging expresses itself in evocative, original and surprising shapes; a world that demands exquisite quality throughout the supply chain, from the processing of raw materials to the finished product. Packaging Première is the platform driving creativity, business and excellence across the entire industry.
24-26 May 2022 Fieramilanocity, Milan
co-located with
Free entrance, compulsory preregistration with code 1011 Scan the QR-code and register online
www.pcdmilan.com
EVENTS
ESXENCE
WHERE INNOVATION MEETS ARTISTIC PERFUMERY
The 12th Esxence - The Art Perfumery Event will be held in Milan, at the MiCo, Milano Convention Centre in the futuristic CityLife District, from 15 to 18 June. This event is an exclusive showcase of the best artistic production in perfumery and will once again bring together the international community of the sector and its enthusiasts.
This year’s event is to be held in Milan from 15 to 18 June 2022 More than 260 brands are due to take part with some exhibiting for the first time from Japan, Australia, Argentina, Hungary and Hong Kong. From May onwards, the Esxence App will be available to channel all the useful information, such as the map of the exhibition area, the programme, the
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calendar of the meetings, the list of brands, news and press releases for the trade professionals and enthusiasts. Esxence will also host the original “Fleeting-Scents in Colour” exhibition, a part of the original one from the Maruitshuis Gallery in the Hague. Thanks to pedal-operated perfumers at the base of the reproduced paintings, it will be possible to smell the odours and scents of the landscapes of the 18th century portrayed in the works, with the aim of exploring the works of art not only visibly but from the new perspective of the sense of smell. In the over 7000 square metres of MiCo, the public of professionals, distributors, buyers and enthusiasts will be able to discover not only the Main Brands which represent the excellence of Artistic Perfumery but also those in the Spotlight, the emerging brands. Most of these (about 70%) come from abroad, confirming Esxence as a prestigious occasion to become known on the international scene. This year’s concept is “Through the Mirror”, which can be translated into beauty, uniqueness, awareness, intimacy and conscience. The mirror will be characterizing element of this year: it allows us to see multiple facets of reality and fragrance can be considered the mirror of our personality, capable of telling the story of our deepest being and essence. At the same time, it can also reflect the most hidden and mysterious part of ourselves: what we are and what we would like to be. Artistic perfumery is still a minor element
in the global beauty market (under 2%) but in many countries it accounts for 10% of the perfumes. Italy is one of the oldest markets for these creations and in 2021 the turnover was around euro 270 million, corresponding to 30.6% of the sale of fragrances. “Niche” perfumery is therefore undergoing a radical and rapid transformation, and the preferred definition today is “artistic perfumery of research.” MiCo will also be hosting Experience Lab, where unique brands, selected according to their excellence in their niche of reference, can be connected with professionals in the international perfumery and beauty sector. This year marks the second edition of this encounter between unique, emerging and avant-garde brands which will offer experiences and discoveries. Over 60 exhibitors will present their new products in the categories of skincare, sun care, make-up, grooming, baby care, bath and body, home beauty, lifestyle and beauty tools. This event-within-the-event will also host workshops and talks with the sector’s experts. With the aim of promoting olfactory culture, Esxence is also a rich calendar of meetings, round tables, workshops, presentations and olfactory paths, with international experts, scholars and researchers, including Michael Edwards, author of Fragrances of the World and Annick Le Guérer, anthropologist and historian of perfumes. All the appointments in the calendar of events are free of charge and the lecture theatre will be open to the public on all the days of the event.
organized by
Since 2009 Esxence - the International Artistic Perfumery Event is the opportunity for operators and enthusiasts to meet the real protagonists of a fascinating world of fragrances, where history and tradition are combined with innovation and research.
12TH EDITION
15 -18 JUNE 2022
MiCo | MILANO CONVENTION CENTRE CITYLIFE DISTRICT
www.esxence.com
@esxenceofficial
COMPANY
IN ASTRA INTERPRETING THE MARVELLOUS UNIVERSE OF THE STARS Two sisters, Sofia and Fabiola Bardelli, are behind the young brand In Astra, founded in 2020, driven by their intuition and passions. The two sisters (Sofia is a perfumeur and Fabiola an artistic director) launched their first line of niche fragrances, during the Covid-19 lockdown, with the wish of bringing light, hope and a desire for rebirth. Their passions for perfumery and astronomy underlie an artistic project which aims to create a parallelism between the stars and fragrance. Just as stars change gradually in the course of their lifetimes, fragrances also reveal themselves gradually, thanks to their different notes.
The range
IN ASTRA proposes four fragrances, each dedicated to a star. The most representative olfactory notes of each star are chosen, capable of telling an exciting and moving story. The products are 100% made in Italy using raw materials of excellence.
Betelgeuse… an eclectic and genderless fragrance Betelgeuse is inspired by the second brightest star in Orion’s Constellation. A poudré heart is given by an intriguing note of iris together with a fruity osmanthus capable of immediately capturing the senses.
The elegant bottle has a golden cap which reproduces the surface of a star, perfectly representing the concept of the brand.
A brand of artistic perfumery that combines two passions: for fragrance and for astronomy Antares… the expectation of culmination Engulfed in a narcotic aroma, the opulence of white flowers with a fresh accent of pink pepper leads the way to bloom into a powerful amber and woody accord. Mismar… at the centre of the firmament An overwhelming fragrance of woody, earthy smells transport us towards the scents of juniper and ginger intertwined with deep aromas of conifers, to accentuate an amber facet, liberating a soothing addiction to frankincense. Tistar… the brightest of stars Aldehydes light up the fragrant freshness of yuzu and pink grapefruit, giving way to a floral glowing iridescence of lavender and peony. The fragrance lingers on in an explosion of musks scorched by earthy scents of cade and fir blossom. All the fragrances come as 50ml Eau de Parfums. A discovery set containing the four fragrances in a 2 ml phial is available to explore this marvellous universe of fragrance inspired by the mysterious elements of the heavens.
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LAUNCH
SIMONE ANDREOLI A REVOLUTION IN THE “MARINE”GENRE Simone Andreoli’s creative flair has produced the most structured marine fragrance in modern perfumery. “Ocean of a Midnight Moon” is a refined, rich and bewitching marine fragrance, which releases all the force of the sea in aquatic and citrus scents which merge with the aromatic notes of mint, myrtle and juniper berries. The olfactory standards of the “marine” genre are revolutionized in this new creation with hyper-contemporary stratifications and a deeply modern sensory approach. With 130 ingredients expertly blended together, the result is the most structured and complex marine/woody fragrance on modern perfumery. Precious extracts and natural oils of noble origin enclose unprecedented quality. Marine and ozone notes merge with the natural oils of lemon, grapefruit, yellow mandarin, bergamot and bigarade petitgrain, creating a tidal wave of freshness that recalls the white and mineralinfused foam of a wave. Myrtle, mint and Moroccan artemisia contribute to the aromatic part which takes us by surprise with an extraction in CO2 of juniper berries, creating a highly sophisticated “gin and tonic” aquatic effect. The rich woods in the base notes form an accord of precious essences. An intense blue seabed which guards an absolute of oakmoss, sweet fir oil and earthy Indonesian
patchouli enveloped by suede leather soaked in the saltiness of the sea. A unique and innovative driftwood accord expresses the majestic power of the sea and its overwhelming poetry to make a shipwreck of the senses.
Ocean of a Midnight Moon captures the force of the sea and combines it with aromatic notes This fragrance confirms the expertise of Simone Andreoli, whose debut in 2014 at the age of 24, made him the youngest Nose in Italy and whose brand today represents Italian excellence in the world of artistic perfumery. With more than 130 doors in Italy and present in more than 18 countries all over the world, Simone Andreoli shows a positive trend with a focus on the search for extraordinary raw materials and highly advanced technologies. The original and sophisticated olfactory structures celebrate the quality of the ingredients and trigger off powerful emotions: excellence without compromise and creativity and beauty as the expression of the Italian heritage.
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EVENTS
EXPERIENCE LAB The appointment with niche beauty excellence makes its return
five senses and awakening emotions, sensations and memories. The brands have been selected through a careful selection process by the Technical Committee, whose members are world-recognized experts. The new concept for this edition, Endless Beauty, is a statement of the conquest of personal awareness, underlining the value of beauty at all ages, which does not chase time, based on the search for products of excellence that can accompany and express the beauty and uniqueness of each person
After its highly successful debut in 2019, then put on hold due to the Covid-19 pandemic, 2022 marks the return of Experience Lab, the event that connects unique brands, selected for their excellence in their reference niche, with operators in the international perfumery and beauty sector. Created as a tangible response to a new type of consumer, digitalized, interested in products other than mass market or wellknown brands, attentive to concept and innovative content, Experience Lab will take place from 15 to 18 June at MiCo, Milano Convention Centre in the CityLife District. Here, industry professionals and visitors will find unique emerging and cutting-edge brands offering experiences, discoveries and insights. The event will feature more than 60 exhibitors from all over the world (including UK, USA, Taiwan, Australia, Germany, Switzerland, Denmark, Spain, France and Sweden) who will present their latest products in the skincare, sun care, oral care, makeup, grooming, baby care. Experience Lab represents a look to the future of cosmetics, with a wide range of cuttingedge beauty products recognized as top of mind, attentive to detail, from texture to packaging, from ingredients to fragrance, capable of stimulating the
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at every time in life. The exhibition area will give visitors the opportunity to get to know the brands, try the products and there will be themed area outlining the orientations of the beauty sector for the future. Including high-tech cosmetics, mindful beauty, upcycled beauty, holistic experience, sustainable skincare etc. The calendar includes workshops and talks with experts in the sector. Lastly the event will display the 5 projects by the 22 students of the Health & Beauty New Generation course at the Milan Politecnico. The students had the opportunity to study the most suitable strategies for devising new concepts for niche cosmetic products by developing their vision, mission, design, integrated communication and the possibility of implementing brand extension projects.
06.15-18.22 MILANO MiCo Citylife District
www.experiencelabmilano.com @experiencelabmilano @ExperienceLabMilano ExperienceLab Channel
organized by
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BEAUTY AND THE NFT BEAST Major beauty brands such as Valdé, Clinique, NYX, Nars, e.l.f., Givenchy, and Look Labs are now minting NFTs, launching products with parties held in virtual worlds, and investing themselves in the metaverse. Their goal? To boost customer engagement and foster brand loyalty by giving each consumer a new way to experience a product of choice. Is the trend just a fad? A glance at the most pertinent data suggests not.
VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach. Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally. A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director. From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry. Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and74 her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in Russia & China.
Globally, 106 million people are now using cryptocurrencies. Advisory group deVere found 70% of its 2021 clients, aged over 55, had, or were going to, invest in digital currencies, despite bitcoin and others being strongly associated with younger investors. Today, cryptocurrencies are widely accepted over 87 nations. According to a PricewaterhouseCoopers report published in 2020, blockchain technologies will reach a tipping point in 2025. PWC contends “digital currency will be adopted at scale across the global economy, boosting GDP by nearly $2trn over the next decade”. Furthermore, according to the report, The Metaverse Mindset: Consumer Shopping Insights, one-third of all respondents, (40% of Gen Zers and 40% of Millennials), want to shop for real or virtual products in the metaverse. Additionally, 41% want brands to set up metaverse stores because it would be convenient for buying both physical products and digital goods like NFTs. In fact,74%, of Gen Z participants purchased digital items in games, 52% said they would pay up to $49.99 to buy something for their avatar.
To be ahead of the pack and at the forefront of change, it’s important, now more than ever, to understand what trends are emerging in the beauty metaverse. For those unfamiliar with this world, getting a grip on the terminology is a must. All too often, the words, NFT, bitcoin, Ethereum, and metaverse are little understood, beyond the fact that they might have something to do with cryptocurrency. Therefore, before jumping into a discussion on trends, let’s go over a few basics.
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METAVERSE 101
words, not only can one buy an NFT as an investment, one can buy a token of a blockchain that holds it. With the price of some NFTs fetching millions, a great deal of attention and debate has been focused on the question of whether these tokens may be considered a new form of investment for consumers.
Blockchain is the technology that enables the metaverse by guaranteeing the reliability of data and providing proof of ownership. Anything and everything can be recorded on a blockchain. Think of it as an immutable ledger for currency and a copyright for anything anyone might create. Every financial transaction on a blockchain is transparent and visible. Both cryptocurrencies and NFTs are built on blockchains.
TOP TRENDS
Metaverse refers to a virtual world where anyone can gather, socialize, work, play, and spend money. It’s accessible to all because it’s public. In simple terms, a metaverse is the virtual equivalent to a universe.
Cryptocurrencies started out as uniquely digital assets, that is, forms of payment that could only be used in a virtual context, such as a video game or virtual world. However, today, Visa, PayPal, Venmo and other payment systems allow an individual to shop for real-world commodities using cryptocurrencies such as bitcoin. How does it work? An individual buys a token of a cryptocurrency on an exchange, much like one buys a share in a stock. And cryptocurrency prices rise and fall, just as stock prices do. Once the currency is bought, it can be held in a digital wallet or even a digital bank. Accounts holding these digital assets can be made available for use with crypto-backed payment systems.
NFT stands for nonfungible token. An NFT is a record of something tangible, such as a work of art, music, or other collectible. That record, or token, both certifies the original file and is a one-of-a-kind, verifiable, asset, easily bought and sold on the blockchain. An NFT, as a digital asset, may also represent digital artwork (such as GIFs, virtual trading cards, images of physical objects, or even tweets). For some artists, the value of an NFT is much like a copyright, in that it digitally stamps ownership and prevents rights from being stolen. Many musicians, for example, will create an NFT for a part of a melody by recording it, then registering the recording on an NFT. NFTs are “minted” onto a blockchain, such as Etherium or Solana. These blockchains are themselves bought and sold as cryptocurrency on exchanges. In other
Priced high or low, brands are leveraging hero products, engaging artists, and supporting charities. Beauty brands (E.l.f., Valdé, NARS, Clinique) are leveraging hero products to tap into an existing fan base and create excitement around their NFTs. Many brands also engage artists and/or support charities or causes, often serving under-represented communities. (Valdé , Givenchy, NARS). While some NFTs are accompanied with corresponding physical products, others are not. Two different strategies are employed in regards to pricing. In a bid to define the NFT beauty marketplace as accessible to all, some NFTs are free or offered at lower price-points. NARS sold its NFTs at fixed prices, with one artwork being given away for free. Nivea and Clinique have also chosen not to charge for their NFTs. On the other end of the spectrum, certain brands (Valdé) offer a more expensive limited edition collectible, but then donate the proceeds to charity. Though some say that applicability of NFTs to the beauty industry has been hard to define, customer engagement has emerged as a clear trend in the industry’s use of NFTs. A closer look at the specifics of NFT mediated consumer experience elucidates the opportunity this technology represents. A few case studies follow.
VALDÉ Valdé offers its customers a chance to purchase a coveted spot in its NFT Collective, and 100% of the net proceeds from NFT sales support collaborating artists, as well as fund a beauty grant for Latinx entrepreneurs. As a member of the collective, one receives:
•A
limited edition, individually numbered, quartz refillable lipstick case made from one of three quartz crystals (Chevron Amethyst, Rose Quartz, or White Quartz),
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• A unique NFT (based on an interpretive depiction of a woman’s • • •
armor made from one of the three quartz stones listed above), each created by emerging Latinx artist Serena Ellis, The entire collection of refillable shades (11 total, a $440 value), A one-year supply of the purchaser’s favorite lipstick shade, and Early access to all future collections.
The launch party for the Divine Collection NFTs and début of the Valdé NFT Collective was held in a virtual location: the Ainsley Gallery in Decentraland. Marie-Laure Fournier-Uder, President of Fournier PR + Consulting which was responsible for hosting Valdé’s launch, explained the vision behind the event: “We chose to host a press launch in the metaverse because it’s a way to reach a wide swath of influential people efficiently. But, unlike others dabbling in virtual events, we were not interested in creating a game or something gimmicky. I envisioned a chic, fun, elevated cocktail party that would appeal to grownups. In my experience, Gen X is just as ready as Gen Z to engage virtually.”
GIVENCHY Givenchy Parfums has teamed up with London gallery owner Amar Singh and the Rewind artist collective to create, “Pride,” a series of limited edition NFTs. In support of the LGBTQIA+ cause, the proceeds of 1952 copies in the series, sold on the Veve platform, were donated to Le MAG Jeunes (Movement for the Assertion of Young Gay, Lesbian, Bi & Trans people) association. The artwork is based on photos that were reinterpreted in the colors of the Rainbow Flag. The result is a series of animated depictions, supporting diversity and the fight for equal rights in all forms of sexual identity assertion.
NARS NARS celebrated its blush product, Orgasm, by commissioning a collection of three NFT artworks by artists Sara Shakeel, Azéde Jean-Pierre, and Nina Kraviz. As with many NFT initiatives, some of the NARS digital tokens were accompanied by something physical, in this case, makeup. NFT art created by contemporary collage and crystal artist Sara Shakeel was made available for free in an unlimited number. However, the open-edition piece created by fashion designer and multimedia artist Azéde Jean-Pierre was priced at $50. And, electronic music artist Nina Kraviz created a $500 limited-edition piece. The $50 NFT buyers received a limited-edition jumbo Orgasm blush and lip balm. The $500 piece included a makeup set for cheeks, lips and eyes called “The Ultimate Orgasm Bundle.” “We believe that NFTs will ultimately empower a deeper connection with NARS’ highest-value and most passionate consumers, empowering selfexpression and creativity in immersive digital environments including the metaverse. “ - Dina Fierro, VP of Global Digital Strategy and Social Engagement for NARS
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e.l.f. e.l.f.’s NFTs are gold renditions of its cult classics, Poreless Putty Primer, 16HR Camo Concealer, and Ride or Die Lip Balm. The NFTs were sold for the same price as its retail counterparts. Gayitri Budhraja, Chief Brand Officer for e.l.f cosmetics explained that their NFTs are a, “…new way for super fans to be a part of the brands they love.” Three NFTs of each product (a total of nine) sold out in under ten minutes.
CLINIQUE Clinique created three editions of its first NFT, “MetaOptimist.” The NFTs were awarded, rather than sold, to winners of a contest. A social media campaign asked members of Clinique’s Smart Rewards reward program to share their stories of optimism and hopes for the future via Instagram, TikTok or
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Twitter. At the end of the competition, Clinique selected three winners with “the most inspiring” content. The winners were to receive, their physical Black Honey product, an annual assortment of other products for ten years, as well as a copy of the three NFTs available.
NIVEA Partnering with Italian artist Clarissa Baldassarri, who suffered from a temporary visual impairment early in her career, Nivea uses its first NFT to highlight the value of touch. Research found that 88% of people ranked sight as their most important sense, followed by hearing. Nivea is said to be the first mass brand to offer copies of this digital work for free.
METAVERSE NOTABLES LOOK LABS Look Labs founder Jordan Katzarov created a digitized version of his brand’s fragrance Cyber Eau De Parfum using the GC-MS (gas chromatography-mass spectrometry) fragrance testing method. Near infrared spectroscopy was used to imprint the scent Cyber Eau de Parfum in the art piece itself (in the form of spectrum data). Each NFT comes with an actual collector’s edition bottle of Cyber Eau de Parfum. Ten fragrances, available in an NFT format, will be accompanied by a physical collector’s edition of the perfume in a bottle that lights up when touched. A example bid on Rarible, which trades the NFT, was 0.4 wrapped etherum. Given that etherium’s price has swung between $2,600 and $4,500 per token in the last six months, the purchase as a worthy investment is definitely in the eye of the beholder.
In the beauty industry, NFTs have proven a new medium for creative expression, a means to increase customer engagement and/or brand loyalty. There are also other metaverse initiatives worthy of noting.
LOLLI Lolli, an online shopping platform lets you earn free cryptocurrency rewards when you check out. Lolli not only has a waiting list, but also has over a thousand partner merchants. Thirty percent of Lolli’s users are female, and the platform’s Health and Beauty category boasts hundreds of well-loved brands, from Amorepacific, Fenty Beauty, EM Cosmetics, Glossier and Foreo, to retail giants Sephora and Ulta. Lolli’s wait-list is a testament to its success.
NYX NYX Professional Makeup minted an NFT based on a painted look, created in real life by special-effects makeup artist Mimi Choi. A digital version of an avatar, created via a hologram capture of Choi modeling the makeup look, was featured in the “Meta Gala,” a virtual fashion show streamed live on YouTube and Twitch. Viewers could enter to win the NFT in a giveaway.
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BENEFIT COSMETICS According to consumer insights data by Niko Partners, Google and Newzoo, around half of the world’s gamers are women, with 500 million from Asia alone as of 2019. Championing gamers with a predeliction for beauty, Benefit Cosmetics asked users to create their game face with the brand’s products. Gamers, identifying themselves as women were also encouraged to speak up on topics from harassment and bullying to underrepresentation. Giving over 500 million women (from one continent alone) an opportunity to have their voices heard is a success in and of itself!
MAC MAC Cosmetics hired Perfect Corp., industry leader in artificial intelligence, augmented reality and e-commerce, to create an AR try-on lens via Snapchat, allowing users to put on filters of different lip and eye products, browse product categories while on Snapchat, then purchase them. In the first month of its implementation both online and in-stores, MAC saw a 200 percent increase in customer engagement. According to Deloitte’s Snap Consumer AR Global Report 2021, there are 100 million consumers shopping with AR online and in-stores, and 94 percent agree that they’ll use AR when shopping in 2022.
THE RISE OF META-SHOPPING
Many beauty brands are merging gaming with shopping, taking a hybrid approach. For example, Charlotte Tilbury sponsored the Girl Gamer Festival in 2021, L’Oréal-owned YSL Beauté partnered with streamer Talia Mar for a sponsored stream promoting the Black Opium Fragrance, and within Estée Lauder’s microsite Anrcade, users play arcade-style minigames while
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learning about the brand’s Advanced Night Repair serum. Drest, a mobile gaming app in which users complete styling challenges, launched a Beauty Mode featuring both Gucci Beauty and Nars. According to CEO Lucy Yeomans, their users see themselves as creators. “I see a demand from the next-generation customer to actually be part of a kind of creative experience,” she says. “The experimentation and discovery are incredibly important, because it’s so immersive...Branded challenges offered on Drest are most popular, with the highest engagement,” she adds.
THE NEED FOR SELF-EXPRESSION
According to cultural critic and PR sprecialist, Afshan Hussain, the human need for creation is driving a confluence between the beauty industry and metaverse engagement, as a tool for self-expression:“We are all born with the oldest blockchain in history, that is DNA, and yet, one’s DNA does not define who we are. If the last century has taught us anything as humans, it’s that bio-essentialism is a myth we need to outgrow. The myth says, You can’t be this/You have to be that because you are a woman, or a of a certain skin color, or a certain sexuality. This is a lie. We create who we are.” For Afshan Hussain, beauty products have always been a part of our toolkit, some would even say, arsenal, that we can use to take what’s given (by our DNA) and reshape it into who or what we want to be. In this sense, beauty products, like art, Hussain contends, can truly represent and hold our identities. “What’s really interesting about the NFT space is that both artists and beauty brands are now minting individually shaped identities onto another blockchain, that of a cryptocurrency. And in this way, NFTs have the power to bury the last existing relic of bioessentialism: DNA,” she added. Clinique’s Optimist campaign asked users to post their stories of Optimism on Twitter, Tiktok, and YouTube. There’s a potential for every brand to ask consumers to post before and after photos on social media, using their products (in context to some theme or simply to remake themselves), and then to incorporate a selection of these submissions into an NFT. An artist might even interpret the selection and create the NFT. If it were to happen more and more, it wouldn’t simply be a trend or fad. Rather, it would be yet another means realized to fulfill the human need for self-expression. With Givenchy or Valdé, the brand is further defining itself by conceptualizing its NFT, choosing a cause to support. Consumers then decide to identify themselves or not. Clinique and Benefit Cosmetics, on the other hand, ask the consumer to put a part of themselves out on social media, to voice who they are, what they feel, and ultimately connect it back to the brand. What’s portrayed, what’s happening, and/or what’s supported
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emissions from an NFT, is another option. Gucci partnered with Offsetra to purchase carbon offsets auctioned via Christie’s, reducing the negative environmental impact associated with its NFT.
FINANCIAL RISK
isn’t chosen by the brand, but by the consumer. Christina Wootton, Vice President of Brand Partnerships at Roblox, the online game platform and game-creation system, reminds us: “It’s important for brands to remember that the younger consumer doesn’t want to be told what to wear and what to do. They love it when a brand is listening to them, and they’re being a part of that process.” I asked Marie-Laure Fournier-Uder, President of Fournier PR + Consulting, what she thought about consumer driven versus brand derived use of the metaverse and creation of NFTs. She responded, “There’s really room for everything in the metaverse. It’s a place you can be anything you want. There’s no one strategy or one box you can put trends into. The space isn’t defined. And therein lies the opportunity for extra-ordinary evolution and outreach. What I love about it [the metaverse] is that it democratizes a world of possibility. It opens up all ends of the spectrum, for both brand and consumer. Getting back to your question. Clinique’s mass-market approach is in line with its target market. That said, a more high-end luxury brand might employ a very different strategy, more in line with the history of what that brand represents, maybe a collaboration with an artist whereby a more expensive NFT is created and sold. In exchange for purchasing the NFT, the customer might have the first choice of pick in a limited edition collection of products, for example. What’s important for brands to offer is true value and belonging to a community. It’s often an experience, not a gimmick, that people want.”
FINANCIAL, ENVIRONMENTAL, AND OTHER CONCERNS ENVIRONMENTAL A significant proportion of NFTs rely on the ‘proof-of-work’ model to verify each transaction on the blockchain, which consumes vast amounts of energy. Beauty brands built on clean credentials must be aware of the problem and its solution. Blockchains using proof-of-stake validation with low power consumption make for a much more environmentally friendly option. Nivea’s NFT was minted on Polygon. Offsetting
NFTs are considered a type of cryptocurrency and this market is highly volatile. A token can be worth thousands or even millions in one month before losing over 90% of its value the next month. Additionally, hackers constitute a real problem for all metaverse spending. Whether purchasing an NFT or shopping in a metaverse mall, hackers can steal from users in a variety of ways.
CUSTOMER CONFUSION Customer confusion, over what one owns when owning an NFT, is also an issue. When someone buys a digital artwork that is authenticated by an NFT, they are not buying the artwork itself. Instead, they are purchasing a digitally authenticated note that proves the physical version exists or existed without actually owning the physical asset. If they own the asset as well, the NFT can serve as a copyright in that NFTs do guarantee rights to the original idea, product, or artwork, but this does not stop the original from being copied and distributed elsewhere. And hackers that gain access to the server where an NFT is stored can also endanger its integrity. Brands will therefore need to inform customers about what they are actually getting for their money. In accordance with the transparency requirements under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, any terms governing a customer’s purchase must be in plain and intelligible language. This means that brands should provide a document setting out what rights the purchaser has with regards to the underlying digital asset. Furthermore, brands considering entering the NFT space for the first time must verify whether their existing trademark registrations extend to digital tokens.
STORAGE Where the NFT is stored can be an problem if the platform that issued the NFT stops hosting the digital media. If a brand is selling its NFTs through a platform, it should seek clarification as to where the assets are stored. Platforms which publish the digital artworks to the IPFS (which stands for an InterPlanetary File System) may offer more protection. The IPFS is a peer to peer network for storing and accessing files and data in a distributed file system. Brands have the option to pin the artwork themselves on the IPFS, rather than relying on the platform, thereby granting the brand more power and the consumer more security.
79 For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk
EVENTS
Beautyworld Saudi Arabia 2022
Successful conclusion of
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia: The 3rd edition of Beautyworld Saudi Arabia concluded on a successful note, welcoming 4,758 Saudi trade buyers through the doors at the Riyadh International Convention and Exhibition Centre from 21-23 March 2022. The tremendous industry response underlined a welcome return to business for the Kingdom’s only dedicated exhibition for beauty products, fragrances, haircare, and wellbeing, which last took place in 2019 before the global pandemic put an abrupt full-stop on large scale events in Saudi for more than two years.
Dedicated cosmetics, skincare, haircare, and fragrances exhibition attracts 4,758 Saudi buyers sourcing products from 76 exhibitors Now however, the Covid-induced hiatus nearly seems like a distant memory, with both visitors and the 76-strong exhibitor line-up from 11 countries at Beautyworld Saudi Arabia delighted to be back in a safe, controlled physical environment at the purpose-built Riyadh venue. Perhaps not surprising, given Saudi’s beauty and personal care market will top US$5.5 billion in retail value this year according to analysts Euromonitor International, up by nearly three percent from US$5.36
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billion in 2021. Opportunities aplenty, and many taken, with international players and local companies alike eagerly networking and laying the ground work for potential long-term business partnerships in one of the world’s flourishing beauty markets. Beautyworld Saudi Arabia 2022 made its Riyadh debut in style, following two equally successful editions in the Western port city of Jeddah in 2018 and 2019. The Kingdom’s capital and commercial hub responded in kind though in 2022, having delivered a wealth of high quality visitors and serious trade buyers. The annual three-day event is organised by Saudi-based Al-Harithy Company for Exhibitions (ACE) Group under licence from UAE-headquartered Messe Frankfurt Middle East, the name behind Dubai’s Beautyworld Middle East – the region’s largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair care, fragrances, and wellbeing. “Beauytworld Saudi Arabia has once again demonstrated its position as the most influential trade fair brand specifically catering to the needs of Saudi’s beauty, hair, fragrance, skincare, and cosmetics industries,” commented Maria Cecilia Canlas, interim Show Director for Beautyworld Saudi Arabia. “After such a long break, this year’s edition has been a magnet with quality visitors and contacts in a safe and engaging environment. We feel privileged to have successfully reunited the industry once again, and look forward now to an even bigger, more successful show in 2023.” Dubai-based distributor Creative Beauty Source was among the exhibitors launching new brands in the Saudi market. General Manager Manwel Yehya said the company was delighted with the visitor
response, and is confident of some fruitful partnerships: “We have nine brands in our portfolio and are launching two key brands in the Saudi market,” he said. “We’re going to present in the Saudi market from today onwards, and we’re so happy to be a part of Beautyworld Saudi Arabia. The response has been outstanding and we will be exhibiting more often.” Mr. Yehya’s comments were echoed by fellow exhibitor Juana Birkenkamp, Communications Specialist at Parfex, a French fragrance house that produces perfumes for fine fragrances, body care and home products. “Saudi Arabia is such an important market for us, and likewise Beautyworld Saudi Arabia has been that crucial platform enabling us to meet new clients and establish some strong networks,” said Ms. Birkenkamp. “We’re developing a special collection of fine perfumes that follow the vision of Saudi Arabia and we’ve had a very good audience this week, which is why we’re coming back next year.” Beautyworld Saudi Arabia 2022 featured four dedicated show segments covering Fragrance; Hair, Nails & Salon Supplies; Cosmetics & Skincare; and Machinery, Packaging, Raw Materials & Contract Manufacturing. The 2022 show also hosted the Beauty Academy where current and aspiring hair and makeup professionals and salon managers honed their skills, organised in collaboration with the Baheya Academy and TVTC (Technical & Vocational Training Corporation). Beautyworld Saudi Arabia is the 5th Beautyworld event globally, following annual shows in Dubai (Beautyworld Middle East) and Japan (Beautyworld Japan, Beautyworld Japan West, and Beautyworld Japan Fukuoka).
Book your space now! Join us for the region’s largest international trade fair for the beauty industry in the Middle East. Make the most of a unique opportunity to meet thousands of visitors from the industry on the show floor, and get genuine leads. Tel: +971 4 389 45 00 beautyworld@uae.messefrankfurt.com www.beautyworldME.com
31 October – 2 November, 2022 Dubai, UAE
COMPANY
ANOTHIAN a new B2B skincare treatment born from ALPS USA’s medical expertise From research in the health sector to innovation in the beauty sector. Since 1989 ALPS has been a renowned US manufacturer of medical devices serving people with permanent limb injuries. Their constant research into the protection and care of those most sensitive areas of the skin which come into contact with artificial limbs has led the company to become a market leader, thanks to its use of technology and its development of innovative formulations with proven effectiveness. The extraordinary benefits obtained from their gelbased medical devices were the starting point and the inspiration for the research and development center of the company. ALPS decided to use its thirty years of experience to develop an effective daily treatment regime for one of the most sensitive and delicate parts of our bodies: the face. Thus was born the ANOTHIAN skincare line, designed by ALPS’ R&D laboratories, which offers cutting-edge formulations for companies who are looking for innovative and extraordinarily effective products to add to the facial beauty routine
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lines of their brand. ALPS offers companies the possibility of customizing the packaging with their own brand labels by purchasing existing ANOTHIAN formulations (White Label). Using the “Private Label” option, the ALPS R&D center is also available to individual customers to make “tailor-made” changes to the formulations, making the treatment unique and even more exclusive.
ANOTHIAN SKINCARE LINE Inspired by nature empowered by technology
OCEAN BOOST - EYE PATCHES The latest product in the ANOTHIAN line is “OCEAN BOOST,” an advanced biomolecular gel. A transparent and very pure gel formulated based on oceanic algae, capable of delivering the active ingredients it contains to a greater depth and more uniformly. A pioneering biocompatible release system that, thanks to its micropores, allows the ingredients to reach the deep layers of the skin more efficiently to provide more effective skin nutrition. Ocean Boost gel is easy to apply because it adheres with extreme precision to the face, is hypoallergenic, and is suitable for all skin types. The first product from ALPS laboratories made with Ocean Boost technology is a specific treatment for the eye area that helps prevent fine wrinkles and eliminate signs of fatigue. Two light “eye patches” using biomolecular gel technology to prevent aging wrinkles by counteracting the imperfections of dark circles and swelling of the eye area. A highly moisturizing treatment based on hyaluronic acid and niacinamide that deeply and uniformly delivers the active ingredients that compose it, toning the areas around the eyes. The pleasant sensation of freshness it confers can be enhanced by placing the gel petals in the refrigerator for a few minutes before use.
company
ANTIOXIDANT CREAM ANOTHIAN’s antioxidant cream is extremely rich and full-bodied, and even from the first applications, it helps to renew the elasticity and radiance of the skin. Its composition with a high concentration of antioxidants, formulated to counteract the effect of free radicals, stimulates skin regeneration. It has a soothing effect on irritated skin and helps to reduce imperfections. Applied daily, it gives the skin natural elasticity and hydration and helps prevent premature skin aging. Its composition is also ideal for more mature skin. The fragrance of the antioxidant cream is pleasantly fresh, with notes of cucumber and melon.
ANTI ACNE CREAM Our anti-acne cream has a full-bodied texture, rich in antioxidants and salicylic acid in its formulation. Thanks to its active ingredients, it helps repair cell damage and rehydrates the skin barrier, reducing the discoloration of scars and lesions caused by acne. Reduces skin imperfections, renewing the skin’s radiance. The delicate composition of the cream has been specially designed to provide a calming treatment and stimulate skin regeneration after each use. It is an ideal cream for all acne-prone skin, and its fragrance, light and neutral, evokes the ocean breeze.
ANTI ACNE MASK This targeted treatment to help fight acne is particularly effective when combined with ANOTHIAN’s anti-acne cream. The acne mask is soft and comfortable thanks to the natural cotton and bamboo fabric, whose formulation, rich in effective active ingredients, gives the skin an immediate moisturizing and soothing effect. It contains a high concentration of salicylic acid and antioxidants to act on a deep level in areas affected by acne. The treatment fights free radicals to minimize imperfections, improves skin elasticity by stimulating skin regeneration, and visibly reduces skin damage.
ANTIOXIDANT MASK The antioxidant mask offers a moment of relaxation, at the same time providing a deep treatment with an intense repairing effect. The ANOTHIAN mask in natural cotton and bamboo fabric is rich in active antioxidant ingredients: avocado butter offers a smooth texture, ensuring maximum skin hydration, while vitamin E oil reduces the signs of skin stress, counteracting free radicals. The effect is immediate: it significantly reduces imperfections, improves elasticity, and stimulates skin regeneration.
Please visit us at COSMOPACK 2022: Pav. 20 – 85 Booth D51 – E50 www.anothian.com
15-17 June 2022
vivaness.de/en/newsletter n f of tio e- di On er E m m Su
Nuremberg, Germany
26 - 29.7.2022
International Trade Fair for Natural and Organic Personal Care
VIVANESS True beauty We’re finally back to meeting in person again! At VIVANESS 2022, you can experience live and at first hand the close connection between beauty, health and natural products. Be captivated by beautiful fragrances, explore nature’s products with all your senses, and be part of the large community that harnesses these treasures. #intonaturalbeauty
In association with BIOFACH2022 Trade visitors only
World’s Leading Trade Fair for Organic Food
Dunlop - Engelsrufer Jette - Kaviar Gauche Leonardo Essenza Lufthansa Scotch & Soda Hugh Parsons - Panama
Acampora Profumi
Air-Val Beverly Hills Fragrances
Alyson Oldoini Parfums
Ancorotti Cosmetics
Antiqua Firenze IO•KO
Arômélia
Ars Mirabile - CBN I-Care - Longevity M Masterpiece Fragrance division: Arrogance - GMV Valentina by Guido Crepax Cosmetic division: Pikenz Astra
Artdeco
Aubade - Montana
Alain Delon Jaguar - Lalique Nikki Beach Parfums Grès Ultrasun Amarena Bella Oggi
Aquolina - Baldinini Paglieri 1876 Pink Sugar Balmain Parfums - Celine Lanvin - Paul Smith - Roxi Van Cleef & Arpels Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc Battistoni - Joseph Abboud Maserati - Rocco Barocco
B.Kolor
Cale’
3 Senses GmbH Senefelder Strasse 1/T4 D-63110 Rodgau www.3senses.eu tran@3senses.eu Profumart s.r.l. Via A. Costa, 2 I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 info@profumitalia.net www.profumitalia.it Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l. Via G. Filangieri, 72 I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 www.brunoacampora.com Air-Val Int. s.a. C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. +34-93/6355335 fax +34-93/6629806 Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Via del Commercio, 1 I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 fax +39/0373-876811 Enzo Galardi Via Ilio Barontini 22 I-50018 Scandicci (FI) elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com www.bois1920.it Arômélia 21, Boulevard Haussmann F-75009 Paris tel. +33 (0) 156036603 contact.aromelia@orange.fr S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. Via della Liberazione, 56 I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 fax +39-02/98280975 The First s.p.a. Via Fieno, 8 I-20123 Milano tel. +39-02/661381 fax +39-02/66138519 Giufra S.r.l. Via Veneto, 152 I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. +39-075.8987455 fax +39-075.8987691 Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 fax +49/8131 390129 Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 fax +33-1/42650074 Art & Fragrance SA Bühlstrasse 1 CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Direct +41-43/4994532 Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com Eurostyle s.p.a. I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 fax +39-081/3158162 www.amarenamakeup.com info@amarenamakeup.com Selectiva s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Interparfums 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées F-75008 Paris tel. +33/1-53770000 fax +33/1-53763626 Italart Via I Maggio 5/A I-43022 Basilicanova (PR) tel. +39/0521-681990 fax +39/0521-681993 B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A - Loc. Geromina I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. +39/0363-590011 fax +39/0363-590212 info@bkolormakeup.com www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com CALE’ s.r.l. Via S. Maria Podone, 5 I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 fax +39/02-76009407 ww.cale.it - s.levi@cale.it
Charriol - Morgan Salvador Dalì
Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827 Collistar Collistar s.p.a. Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 fax +39-02/6775454 Confalonieri Matite Confalonieri Matite s.r.l. I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) tel. +39/0343-42011 fax +39/0343 42000 www.confaloniericosmetica.com confaloniericosmetica.com Costume National Beauty San s.p.a. Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net Coverderm Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. Covermark GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 fax +39-02/89200371 diego dalla palma Cosmetica s.r.l. Via S. Carlo 28 diego dalla palma RVB Lab I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 fax +39-0542/670911 Dsquared2 - Missoni Euroitalia s.r.l. Via G. Galilei, 1 Moschino - Naj Oleari I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) Versace tel. +39-02/95916.1 fax +39-02/95916500 Enrico Gi Fragrances Enrico Gi Fragrances Via della Tecnica, 32 I-37066 Sommacampagna (VR) tel. +39/045-8960480 fax +39/045-8960482 www.enricogifragrances.com info@enricogifragrances.com Exclusive division: Eurocosmesi Braccialini - Byblos - Fila - Gandini Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) Genny - Luciano Soprani tel. +39-051/6649238 Transvital fax +39-051/6649248 Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport Lola - Looney Tunes Renato Balestra - Rockford Franck Olivier Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 fax +33-1/42210888 Giorgio Jäneke Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. fax +39-0362/911100 Grioni-Myc Group Grioni-Myc Group Via Cavour, 2 c/o COMONEXT Innovation Hub www.grionipackaging.com Gritti Venetia Gritti Fragrances Via della Torretta, 52 I-40012 Calderara di Reno (BO) tel. +39-051-828087 export@grittifragrances.com Guudcure HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 Pollution Free I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 fax +39/03332-850307 hsa@hsacosmetics.com www.hsacosmetics.com Bellagio - Henry Cotton’s Diamond International s.r.l. Via Foce Cesano,4/9 Ducati - Gattinoni - Juventus I-60019 Senigalla (AN) Mcs - Monello Mascalzone tel. +39/071-6610226 NY League fax +39/071-6611104 info@diamondint.it www.difragrances.com Inika Organic Inika Organic 813 Springvale Road, - Mulgrave VIC - Australia 3170 tel. + 61 3 8544 80000 hello@inika.com.au Intertrade Europe HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 - I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 fax +39-049/762 5177 Jean Couturier VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier - F-75008 Paris Léonard tel. +33-1/58183970 fax +33-1/40060210 Kiko Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. Via Depretis, 6/9 I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 fax +39-035/3693612 La Closerie des Parfums Groupe Panther – La Closerie des Parfums ZI Gradignan Bersol 11 Avenue de la Madeleine F-33173 Gradignan cedex (France) tel +33/05.56.75.79.04 fax +33/05.56.75.53.36 valerie.madrid@lacloseriedesparfums.com www.lacloseriedesparfums.com
Layla
L’Erbolario
Locherber
Lubin
Lumson Belotti
M:PLUS Cosmetics
The Merchant of Venice Furla - Police - Replay - Zippo Manila Grace - Blauer USA Pino Silvestre - Monotheme I Profumi di d’Annunzio MI-RE
Molinard
Nouba
Paglieri
Parfums Pergolèse Paris
Payot
Pupa Miss Milkie Qualimed - Desìo
Rancé
Sandalia
Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro
Teatro Fragranze Uniche
Xerjoff Yuzen
Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Via dei Pestagalli, 21 I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 - fax +39-02/5061160 L’Erbolario s.p.a. V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 fax +39/0371-491411 www.erbolario.com Cosval s.p.a. V.le delle Industrie 10/5 I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 - fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com Lubin 3, rue du Roule F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 fax +33-1/45021316 Lumson S.p.A. Via Tesino, 62-64 I-26010 Capergnanica (CR) tel. +39/0373-2331 fax +39-0373-233355 www.lumson.com lumson@lumson.com M:PLUS Cosmetics Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 I-20065 Inzago (MI) www.mascaraplus.com info@mascaraplus.com Mavive S.p.A. Via Altinia, 298/B I-30173 Venezia (Dese) tel. +39-041/5417771 fax +39-041/5417798 MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 www.mirecosmetics.com etremosa@mi-in.kr Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com www.molinard.com Nouba s.r.l. Via Bastia 5 - I-20139 Milano tel. +39/02-35954290 www.nouba.it - info@nouba.it Paglieri s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr www.payot.com Micy’s Company s.p.a. Via De Gasperi, 22 I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 - fax +39-039/89205859 Qualimed - Desìo Viale dell’Unione Europea 8 I-21052 Gallarate 21013 (VA) tel. +39/00331-1629910 fax +39/0331-1838472 info@qualimed.it - www.qualimed.it Rancé & C. s.r.l. Via Lombardini, 10 I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 fax +39-02/89401058 Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it info@officinaprofumeriasarda Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 fax +39-055/3360734 Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l. Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it Xerjoff Group s.p.a. Via G. Tenivelli, 29 10024 Moncalieri (TO) Forma Italiana s.p.a. Via Cascina Nuova, 1 Frazione Villamaggiore I - 20084 Lacchiarella Tel. +39/02-9007713 info@formaitaliana.it
YOUPHORIA #GLOWUPYOURTRUTH 2022 SS COLLECTION