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THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE

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THE MOST IMPORTANT BEAUTY TRADE SHOW IN THE WORLD, DEDICATED TO ALL SECTORS OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY COSMOPROF.COM BOLOGNA, ITALY FAIR DISTRICT 10 – 13 MARCH 2022

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4 Transvital 6 Gandini 14-15 Astra MakeUp 18-19 Lumson

EVENTS On the cover Cosmoprof Bologna, next edition in March 2022

N. 4 ANNO XLI MAy-june-july 2021 BIMONTHLY MAggiO-giugno-luglio 2021 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

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12-13 34 40-41 46-48

TFWA Cannes Cosmoprof North America BeautyIstanbul China Beauty Expo

FLASH/NEWS 36-38

INTERVIEW

30-31

MakeUp in: S. Maguarian

LAUNCH

10 Teatro Fragranze 16 Concilium Cosmetics 20-21 Collistar 26-27 Artdeco 32 Arômélia 33 Byredo 35 Acqua dell’Elba 37 Teaology

report

8 Post-Covid shopper conversion on the rise – Mind-Set

22-24 Beautystreams, China Consumer Mindset Shifts

42-45 The sleeping bear has awoken and it’s taking on the beauty world – Valérie Kaminov 49 Eva Lagarde launches re-sources.co

50-53 The truth about carbon neutral – Valérie Kaminov

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9-11-Insert Astra MakeUp 39 BeautyIstanbul 25 Beautystreams 28 Cosmobeauté Cover Cosmoprof Bologna Worldwide 3 Cosmoprof North America 54-55 Export Magazine 7 Gandini Profumi II -1 HSA 17 Lumson III LuxePack 29 Makeup in NY 5 Transvital IV We Cosmoprof

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A NEW WORLD FOR BEAUTY BOLOGNA, HONG KONG, LAS VEGAS, MUMBAI, BANGKOK

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COMPANY

TRANSVITAL The landscape is that of the picturesque and impressive Dolomites. Here, in the heart of Cortina d’Ampezzo, the only Italian town to be part of the Best of the Alps Resorts and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009, is where you find the Cristallo Resort & Spa, a waking dream placed somewhere between the past and present. Opened in 1901, the Cristallo is a historic, 5-star luxury building – the only one in the Dolomites – that belongs to the elite hotel district icons. This year is the 120° anniversary from the opening with a renewed Spa, Special projects, and limited edition.

Tradition, luxury and well-being at high altitudes Immersed in a setting filled with scents and colors, and the friendliness and skill of our staff who caress your very soul, Transvital rituals lie at the heart of our Official Transvital Ultimate Spa. Due to the special focus given to the beauty service at Cristallo Ultimate Spa, genuine industry professionals work together, skillfully and scrupulously, within the nine Luxury Rooms. Targeted treatment plans for antiageing skincare with Transvital Professional Line.

Prevention and massages are carried out by expert hands, allowing you to discover the real pleasure of your own beauty in Cortina d’Ampezzo at Cristallo Resort & Spa. The massages and treatments offered have been selected from the most ancient traditions and the exclusive Transvital face and body range. The spectacular spa offers a vast range of therapies with detox, anti-ageing, relaxation and après-ski rituals.

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Transvital Spa Beauty Treatments Transvital Professional anti-age treatments specifically formulated for the face and body, allow to enter into a new dimension of beauty with Transvital Beauty Consultants.

Regenerate the health of skin, restoring the elements stolen by time: every treatment responds to the individual requirements of a prestigious international customer oriented towards wellness. With Transvital Professional Treatments, massage and harmonious application, every single product becomes a unique culture and philosophy of the senses, to achieve the best results for rejuvenation of the face and body. For this reason Transvital is unique in privileging the anti-aging benefits fruit derived from the great Swiss cosmetic tradition.

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GANDINI CREATIONS continue to celebrate the beauty and the art of seduction

Few brands are older than one hundred years.

Very few can represent history.

Gandini is a performer and main character of the most knowledgeable Italian tradition.

It was founded in 1896 thanks to Alessandro Gandini, an alchemist enlightened by a brilliant and refined creativity, inspired by nature’s perfection.

In the first half of the twentieth century his craftmanship and use of natural raw materials gave birth to unforgettable essences, becoming ageless emotions of an era and then traditions of the great Italian school.

Today, in the spirit of its tradition, Gandini continues to celebrate the beauty and the art of seduction with unique and surprising creations.

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AN TIC A C A SA D I PRO FU ME R I A I TA LI A N A DAL 1896

report

Post-Covid shopper conversion on the rise m1nd-set’s latest analysis compares shopper behaviour in airports over the past 5 years, through the pre-Covid era to the present day, comparing the evolution of footfall and conversion rates, changes in the categories purchased, as well as the evolution and variations over the years in why people purchase in travel retail, what triggered the purchase and some of the barriers to purchase.

International travellers in the post-Covid-19 context are more likely to convert into buyers than they have been in recent years according to the latest consumer research from Swiss travel and travel retail market research agency m1nd-set Among the key findings, m1nd-set reveals that while conversion (share of duty free buyers out of duty free visitors) had been decreasing since 2017, from 66% to 52% in 2020, the percentage of shoppers making a purchase in duty free and travel retail stores rose again in 2021 to reach the same levels as in 2018 (59%). Inversely however, the research demonstrates a clear downward trend in terms of footfall over this period among global passengers; airports have lost 5% of passengers according to the passenger feedback between 2017 and 2021. While 42% of travellers globally say they entered the duty free and other retail shops in 2017, that percentage has fallen to 37% in Q1 2021 according to m1nd-set.

Another interesting finding which emerges from the analysis is the evolution of categories purchased and purchase planning. Global travellers in 2021 are more likely to purchase categories that tend to be planned in advance. For the Perfumes category, 41% of shoppers purchased in 2021 vs 31% on average when considering all previous 4 years, an increase of 10%. For Fashion & Accessories, there

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is a 7% increase in 2021 compared to the previous years, (22% vs 15%), 6% for Skincare (25% vs 19%) and Jewellery & Watches (14% vs 8%), 5% for Tobacco products (22% vs 17%) and 4% for Make-up (20% vs 16%). For all these categories, the significant majority of shoppers – between 75% and 90% depending on the category – plan their purchases.

The percentage of shoppers in duty free and travel retail planning their purchases had been decreasing steadily since 2017, from 80% to 75% in 2020. In 2021, however, this trend has been reversed as 86% of shoppers say they will plan their purchases to at least some extent when travelling. They are less likely to purchase completely on impulse, however, with a decline from 25% of shoppers purchasing on impulse in 2020 to 14% in 2021. Commenting on the research findings m1nd-set Owner & CEO Peter Mohn said: “The global footfall and conversion trends over the past five years are very interesting to see, as there are still more than 40% of store visitors who need to be enticed to spend, not to mention the 63% of all passengers who do not enter the shops.” “More interesting still, however, Mohn continued, “are the non-visitor and non-shopper customer segments.

In the post-pandemic environment, the reasons for not visiting or shopping at an airport have, without question, evolved and will be quite different to the reasons for not-shopping expressed in 2017.”

“It’s important to underline though that while the global data demonstrated here paints a general picture, the realities will inevitably vary from one airport to another; even between terminals at the same airport. It is vital to approach these consumer insights from a regional-specific, market by market and even airport specific perspective. Each retailer and airport need to understand the reasons behind the barriers to visiting and shopping in the retail stores” Mohn concluded. The research data revealed here concerns the global trends. More detailed data on the regional or national market tendencies are available upon request from m1nd-set.

For more information, please contact m1nd-set: info@m1nd-set.com

ASTRA MAKE-UP CREATES ITS FIRST SKIN CARE LINE TO TRANSFORM THE SKIN CARE ROUTINE INTO A SENSORIAL AND PLEASANT PATHWAY: FROM GENTLE AND DEEP CLEANSING TO TONING AND MOISTURIZING TREATMENTS. A RELAXING AND PLEASANT PATH THAT LEADS TO THE SUMMIT OF BEAUTY: BEING YOURSELF IN THE BEST SUIT, YOUR OWN SKIN.

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

AS EFFECTIVE AS A TREATMENT, AS PRACTICAL AND PLAYFUL AS A PAMPERING. FOR WHENEVER THE SKIN DESIRES AN EXTRA BEAUTY BOOST, ASTRA SKIN’S FABRIC MASKS COMBINE PRECIOUS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS WITH SHEET MASK TECHNOLOGY, FOR A RESULT WORTHY OF A SPA. FROM MOISTURIZING AND EMOLLIENT TO PURIFYING AND ENERGIZING, NOURISHING AND PERFECTING THE COMPLEXION HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER.

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

COSMOGRAPHIC IS THE RETRACTABLE PENCIL CAPABLE OF UNDERLINING THE EYE WITH EXTREME PRECISION, SYNTHESIZED IN SEVEN COLORS INSPIRED BY THE NEBULAE AND VIBRANT COLORS OF THE COSMOS. ITS WATERPROOF COMPONENT ENSURES EXTREME RESISTANCE BOTH ON THE EYELID AND INSIDE THE RIM OF THE EYE: LIKE FLAMBOYANT COMET TAILS, FOR A LOOK THAT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO FORGET.

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

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TEATRO FRAGRANZE WHAT DOES A DIAMOND SMELL LIKE?

Teatro Fragranze Uniche, the Florentine workshop of home fragrances, asked the renowned Italian nose Simone Andreoli this question and the result is the latest in the brand’s line of home fragrances: Diamante- Scent of Art.

The aim was to create a fragrance as unique as the gem which inspired it. Is structure is articulated with accords of amber, woody, sugary molecules and resinous accents. The top notes are sugar crystals, amber dust and safranal. The hear is a bend of an extreme amber accord, ambrinol and galaxolide, while the base notes are karmawood, amberwood, timbertouch, Siberian fir and cedar wood.

The answer to this enigmatic question is the new home fragrance by the Florentine brand

This idea started the project which led to the creation of what could be defined a real contemporary evolution in home fragrance.

Simone Andreoli’s abstract concept of fragrance and the innovative vocation of Teatro Fragranze have been translated into a fragrance that evokes sensations of transparency, crystallinity and sensuality through abstract and powdery notes, which are rare and precious, unique and contemporary. Diamante – Scent of Art goes beyond the frontiers of the universe of concept fragrance: it does not lead to any odour resent in nature, but surprises and amazes, and captures the senses transforming the home into something that goes beyond.

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Diamante – Scent of Art comes in the traditional Teatro Fragranze Uniche bottle, for the occasion dressed in blue and enriched by 9080° silver screenprinting, done by hand in collaboration with the long-established Egizia Design Srl company. The box has been made from pearlescent paper, to recall the luminescence and the preciousness of diamonds.

Diamante – Scent of Art is available in the 100ml spray version and in the version with reeds in the sizes of 100ml, 250ml and 500 ml. For larger rooms, the elegant decanters in the 1600ml and 3000ml sizes will be available. The line also includes the spray pistol in the 500ml size and refills in the 500ml, 1000ml , 3000ml and 5000 ml sizes. The elegant line is concluded by the candles in glass holders in the 180 g, 750 g and 1500 g. Simone Andreoli’s expertise has also led to the creation of the fragrance in the 100ml size, which comes with a refined and exclusive marble cap.

THE PATH TO ACHIEVE LONG-LASTING MAKE-UP HAS NEVER BEEN SO PLEASANT AND RELAXING, LIKE A WALK IN A ZEN GARDEN. YOUR ZEN ROUTINE IS THE COLLECTION OF ASTRA MAKE-UP THAT HELPS YOU PREPARE THE SKIN FOR MAKE-UP THROUGH SENSES AND MOVEMENTS THAT CAN TRANSFORM THE MOMENT INTO A PLEASANT PERSONAL RITUAL, TO BE REPEATED EVERY DAY AS A BEAUTY TREATMENT.

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

EVENTS

TFWA in Cannes next 24th-28th October

The TFWA Management Committee has announced that, following extensive consultation with members and local partners in Cannes, it has decided to hold the long-awaited 2021 edition of the TFWA World Exhibition & Conference on 24th – 28th October.

The decision will allow maximum time for brands and visitors to best prepare their participation, and allow delegates to take full advantage of the positive developments in the health and travel situation in Europe and elsewhere.

While TFWA will continue to monitor the situation closely, the latest steps taken by the French government to allow live events, the gradual reopening of travel in Europe, plus the hard work

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EVENTS

undertaken by the City of Cannes to ensure a safe and secure environment, gives TFWA the confidence to work relentlessly to help bring the industry together in October once again.

TFWA brings again the industry together in October

Response to the Hosted Buyer Programme, launched

by TFWA last week, has been very positive according to the Association, with many retailers around the world expressing their intention to attend the event.

Retailers have until the end of May to register for the programme. Regular exhibitors at TFWA World Exhibition & Conference will be contacted shortly with full details of the event.

“There is no doubt that the return to live events is eagerly awaited by everyone in our business, and there’s a huge amount of excitement about the return of our industry’s flagship event, TFWA World Exhibition & Conference. The desire among exhibitors and buyers to meet in person to help revive our market is very clear.

“Our permanent staff, Management Committee and Board have been working tirelessly with the team at the Palais des Festivals and the City of Cannes to arrange the best timing that will be beneficial to all.

By selecting an end of October slot for this essential diary date for travel retail professionals, we plan to give our members and their business partners more time to prepare for a successful show. With the industry’s support, TFWA is determined to deliver a world-class platform that will allow us to establish new business foundations as we move towards recovery.”

TFWA President Jaya Singh

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COMPANY

ASTRA SKIN A REAL SENSORY JOURNEY

Astra Make-up, the 100% Italian company which makes beauty affordable and inclusive, arrives on the market with its first line dedicated to daily skin care

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Astra Make-up, the 100% Italian company which makes beauty affordable and inclusive, arrives on the market with its first line dedicated to daily skin care.

ASTRA SKIN is a complete line that takes us on a real sensory and voluptuous journey: from cleansing, gentle or in depth, to moisturizing and toning treatments.

To offer the skin of our faces its best version. That’s not all. Up to 99% of the ingredients in ASTRA SKIN are of natural origin, which makes to formulations very pleasant, as well as perfect for those to want to shop consciously, respecting the environment.

In packaging in a colour renamed Serenity Azure, i.e. a light blue that evokes the sea and the sky, the ASTRA SKIN products are ideal for the skin of the very young of the Generation Z, of Millennials, but also of the over 60s and, above all, both for men and for women.

Because for ASTRA inclusiveness is a fundamental value, on which the development of all its collections is based.

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The ASTRA SKIN range comprises 6 products for cleansing and moisturizing, completed by 4 masks (3 for the face and 1 for the eyes) for extra pampering of our skin. Let’s discover them together.

CLEANSING FACIAL SCRUB – GENTLE – With a gently exfoliating and regenerating action, it prepares the skin to receive the next steps in the skincare routine. With 97% of ingredients of natural origin, including blackcurrant and black cherry extracts and perlites of volcanic origin, it leaves skin radiant and even. Use from 1 to 3 times a week.

MOUSSE – GENTLE CLEANSER – It purifies facial skin by removing impurities, leaving it cleansed and moisturized.

With 97% of ingredients of natural origin, including blackcurrant extract, rice protein and hyaluronic acids of different molecular weight, it is perfect for daily cleansing, respecting the physiological pH. REBALANCING FACIAL TONER – It rebalances and soothes the skin, purifying it in depth. With 99% of ingredients of natural origin, including floral waters, panthenol, Aloe Vera and liposomes of hyaluronic acid. Applied on a cotton wool pad, after cleansing suppleness and tone are restored at the same time.

MOISTURIZING LIGHT MOISTURIZING FACIAL LOTION – Formulated to help reinforce the moisturizing barrier of the skin, it is suitable for all skin types.

With 92% of ingredients of natural origin, including a very high percentage of water and Vitamin B3 and an exclusive blend of silica, it can control both excessive production of sebum and reduce the unsightly appearance of open pores.

Apply in the morning and evening.

REGENERATING FACIAL SERUM – An elixir capable of reducing fine lines and fighting the formation of impurities, also improving the texture of the skin. With 98% of ingredients of natural origin including blackcurrant, sugar cane, maple sugar, orange and lemon extracts, it guarantees natural and gentle peeling. Apply in the morning and evening.

EYE CONTOUR- ANTI-FATIGUE CREAM – With lifting power, this cream gives the eye contour a more toned, relaxed and deeply moisturized appearance. With 97% of ingredients of natural origin, including hyaluronic acid and special peptides, it is suitable for all ages and for all skin types.

It minimizes dark circles and wrinkles and, if applied in the morning, decongests the area around the eyes, while in the evening it prepares the skin for regeneration during the hours of sleep.

FABRIC FACIAL MASKS AND EYE PATCH MASKS EMOLLIENT AND REVITALIZING MASK – Ideal to quench parched skin in depth, giving a feeling of relief and well-being.

With 97% of ingredients of natural origin, including Ficus and organic Goji extracts, Aloe juice, almond oil, shea butter, allantoin and hyaluronic acid, it is also perfect as an after-sun treatment to soothe and moisturize the face. Application time: 10 minutes.

MOISTURIZING NOURISHING MASK – A treatment that nourishes facial skin in depth, giving the right moisturization as well. With 97% of ingredients of natural origin, including avocado oil, shea butter, hyaluronic acid and Goji extract, it leaves skin soft, supple and looking replumped and radiant.

Application time: 10 minutes.

PURIFYING SEBUM-NORMALIZING MASK – Perfect for those who need to purify and rebalance their skin.

With 97% of ingredients of natural origin, including zinc PCA, allantoin and Spiraea Ulmaria extract, it has an astringent action, improving the skin’s appearance because it leaves it smooth and compact, naturally mattified.

Application time: 10 minutes.

ENERGIZING AND DECONGESTING EYE PATCHES – For bright and relaxed eyes.

With 99% of ingredients of natural origin, including caffeine, hyaluronic acid and the Bio-biosaccharide polymer and an ultra-fresh formula, the eye contour will look rested, toned and tonic.

Application time: 10 minutes.

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CONCILIUM COSMETICS BALANCE FOR THE SKIN

Products to preserve the perfect balance of the skin’s microbiota The skin’s microbiota is all those microorganisms that live in perfect symbiosis with our skin, which is why preserving it is fundamental.

Normally the skin hosts about one million “good” bacteria” and the microbiota reinforces the immune system and creates a protective barrier against the “foreign” bacteria to neutralize the harmful bacteria. The Microbiota is determined by a combination of unique factors for each individual and is influenced both by endogenous factors (sex, age, genetic make-up, ethnic group…) and by exogenous factors such as the temperature, the pH and humidity.

Concilium is the result of many years of experience ad research in the sector of cosmetic medicine: this line groups together all that knowledge in which every ingredient is supported by scientific evidence.

The Concilium products have been developed to help the skin regain its natural balance, make it less susceptible to aggression and external damage,

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to keep it young, glowing and healthy for as long as possible.The fragrances are extremely delicate, linked to the natural ingredients in the products, while the glass packaging preserves the quality of the product for longer.

The products are suitable for both men and women.

There are two key ingredients: the marine algae Laminaria Digitata and Chlorella Vulgaris in seawater.

This complex active ingredient moisturizes in depth and continuously, fostering the rebalance of the pH of the epidermis, nourishes and calms redness due to states of micro-inflammation.

Organic Silica with Hyaluronic Acid with a low molecular weight acts in depth, stimulating the production of proteins responsible for the compactness and suppleness of the skin, and visibly reducing lines of expression. Revitalizing, it promotes renewal of the skin, and has affirming, redensifying and moisturizing action.

The latest product is BBiome spf30, a smoothing day treatment. The spf30 emulsion is enriched with photoprotective agents which screen the skin, protecting it from aggression by the sun, creating a coloured protective film.

It optimizes the balance of the microbiota, limiting redness and irritation, sources of free radicals that induce ageing and dark spots.

It covers imperfections, giving a natural look and a healthy and radiant appearance. It protects from sensitivization and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It prevents the production of melanin and remains on the skin even under a mask.

Its active ingredients are Marine Algae and Silica together with acid extract of liquorice, which is antiinflammatory and healing, calming and soothing, and Allantoin, with moisturizing and calming properties and chemical and physical spf 30 filters to protect against UVB and UVA rays.

BBiome SPF 30 can be used in place of a sun cream.

COMPANY

L u m son Lumson’s noteworthy innovations are never the end of the story, they always bring something new and improved along with them compared to the past. It’s with this spirit that the Italian leader in the production of primary packaging and integrated dispensing and airless systems is proud to launch two new products on the market: Chisel, the new futuristic and functional dropper, and TAL, the first touchless available in aluminum. Two products that are immensely different but yet equally destined to be talked about: Chisel, because embodies Lumson’s style and design, TAL because it represents a concrete and functional answer to demands for sustainability and safety from the modern cosmetics market. After all, predicting the market’s requests and knowing how to translate them into avant-garde, trending products has always been a distinctive Lumson characteristic; that has allowed the company to grow and establish itself in the international market.

The infringeable Touchless, the revolutionary sustainable compact case Ecompact, and the eco-friendly lipstick PLA 2.0 are just some of the most recent examples of packaging that have become true trending topics. For Chisel and TAL, the expectations are the same: to become not only iconic products, but real case studies of success.

Avant-garde products predicting the market’s requests

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INTERVIEW WITH ROMUALDO PRIORE, LUMSON MARKETING MANAGER EM: Can you talk to us about Chisel, the dropper with the futuristic design that you’ve just recently launched on the market?

RP: Chisel embodies the concept of design and innovation according to Lumson. For Lumson, new ideas are always solutions that bring an added value with them.

Innovation is synonymous with the research and study of new shapes, materials, and technological and aesthetic solutions. Lumson’s style rejects the superfluous and focuses on what’s essential, it appreciates the beauty in a simple gesture and prioritizes understated elegance.

The minimalist style of Chisel illustrates precise design and a delicate, yet innovative way to apply cosmetics.

EM: Chisel represents a sort of “challenge” for Lumson: to transform a dropper into a design product…

RP: Yes, this is true in a certain sense.

For all of us, Chisel represents a challenge in terms of ergonomics and design. We wanted to create a practical and futuristic dropper where aesthetics would be inextricably combined with functionality, following the Lumson tradition. And looking at the result, I’d say we did it. The new dropper, with its elongated and ergonomic shape, is elegant and functional at the same time because it

COMPANY

guarantees precision in dispensing, safety, and ease of use- crucial elements for a product destined for the cosmetic sector. The application mode of cosmetics, for Lumson, is an element not to be overlooked: it must be immediate, intuitive, but at the same time-delicate and pleasurable to do. This is exactly what happens with Chisel, which allows for the calibrating of the product quantity desired with a simple “push-down” gesture on the button. Last but not least, it has the potential to be applied to a variety of products and the possible dropper/bottle combinations are endless.

EM: The new products don’t end here though. You’ve just officially launched TAL on the market, the first touchless in aluminum. Can you tell us something about this innovative airless packaging…?

RP: It’s a project that we strongly believe in that is the perfect answer to the current beauty market’s demands and we’re sure will also apply to the near future.

TAL: an acronym for Techno Airless Aluminum – is an aluminum airless with a pouch that combines technological innovation and functionality and responds to the market’s requests in terms of maximum safety and sustainability. It’s safe, eco-friendly, and customizable.

EM: Can you explain its characteristics a bit better, one by one?

RP: It’s safe because utilizing pouch technology, it guarantees that the product’s purity and integrity remain completely untouched. The multi-layered pouch, equipped with a Hermetic Snap Closure System (patented

by Lumson), has been studied to act as a barrier against external agents and protect the formula from any possible contamination. It’s sustainable because first off, it’s made of aluminum: not only is it the most common metal present on the Earth but it’s also light, modern, and has many technical properties that means can be recycled an infinite number of times while maintaining its characteristics. Secondly, it’s an ecofriendly choice because when the product is finished, the consumer can separate the aluminum container from the plastic components and recycle each part appropriately. It’s versatile and can be customized with a variety of effects. Thanks to lithographic printing methods that can unite up to 6 colors, various finishes and decorations are offered. Some examples include glossy effect with make the product more prestigious, perfect for a product destined for the luxury market; instead, satin-finishes and brushed effects are ideal for brands that want to focus on “green” and ecofriendly concepts. Undoubtedly in any case, this is a material that is versatile, ideal for both luxury and mass market products, created with great attention to detail and offering a modern and minimalistic design.

EM: Which products would you recommend packaging like TAL for?

RP: It’s packaging that is very versatile, contemporary, with clean, minimalistic lines ideal for face and body products. Also, the sizes available – 50, 75, and 100mL – lend themselves to being used in both the skincare segment as well as for products that would traditionally require larger formats (ex: body care, sun care, haircare…). This is packaging that is destined to be talked about.

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COLLISTAR SMART SUN PROTECTION®

Smart Sun Protection® is the innovative formula

by Collistar that maximizes the positive effect of sunlight while preventing photo-ageing.

This pro-Vitamin D filter system activates the health vitamin (fundamental for health in general and the skin in particular) when the product is applied before exposure to the sun, only excluding damaging rays and boosting the benefits of sunlight for the skin’s well-being and beauty. By changing the proportion of filters for the two types of rays (UVA and UVB), this vital vitamin can be produced while safely protecting the skin. Smart Skin protection® is also formulated with innovative Smart Anti-free radical protection.

The new system combats oxidative stress by releasing the active ingredients only when the skin needs it most: during exposure to the sun.

The Italian company reinvents sun care The range Collistar is a leader in sun care and its characteristics of effectiveness, safety, sensory qualities and fragrance remain the same. The Tanning Moisturizing Milk Spray SPF 10 and 15 have been replaced by SPF 20 and 30, based on the continuing demand for higher protection. The textures have been perfected for improved performance in terms of absorption, comfort after application and greater water resistance. In addition to 100% recycled materials for some containers and 100% FSC boxes, the designs of some bottles has been updated to make them easier to handle and the formulas have been adapted to make them sustainable and coral-friendly. With sensory textures, the products glide over the skin.

Silk effect oils, invisible sprays, unguents that perfect the skin, refreshing no-filter waters, light yet comforting spray milks and rich creams for dry skins: there is something for everyone.

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The final touch is the unique and unmistakable Collistar sun care fragrance; bergamot, freesia, rose, orange blossom and musky base notes… the essence of summer. The Hyper-Sensitive Skin Line comprises products with SPF 50+ and an Ultra Soothing After Sun Repair Treatment. The High Protection line has SPF 30 products in cream, milk spray and tanning spray formats. For Medium Protection (SPF 15/SPF 20), there is a choice between a milk spray, a dry oil, a face treatment a tanning spray and cream. The Low Protection, (SPF 6 or 10) products are intensive and supertanning, in a dry oil or moisturizing spray.

The three no-filter products can be used alone or on top of a sunscreen, according to individual requirements. For after-sun relief, six products provide tailor-made treatments, never-ending freshness, deep-down hydration and a long-lasting tan. The special treatment range of After-Sun Rebalancing Cream-Shampoo, After-Sun Intensive Restructuring Hair Mask and Protective Oil Spray for Coloured Hair tackles and solves every possible need of hair in the sun.

Limited edition sets This year Collistar has created three limited edition sun care sets, with the free gifts of After Sun Shower Shampoo Moisturizing Restorative and a pochette made from 100% recycled fabric. The Supertan Effect is for those with a dark complexion who want to intensify their tan; the Weekend Formula and Your Sensitive Ally for sensitive skins.

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COLLISTAR: A NEW CLEANSING RANGE Saying that particular attention should be paid to daily cleansing is nothing new, but recent research has shown that the skin hosts a huge number of microorganisms collectively known as the skin microbiome, which contains two classes of bacteria: “good” symbionts and “harmful” pathobionts. The balance between the two groups guarantees the skin’s wellbeing. To ensure cleansing that is effective and not excessively aggressive, Collistar Clean Research® has designed a solution with a new facial cleansing range of three products that join Gentle Micellar Water in protecting the skin’s barrier and its natural microbiome. The formulas are enriched with a special natural prebiotic, inulin, which “nourishes” and strengthens good bacteria only, helping to support the skin’s barrier. It feeds the skin’s bacterial flora with a beneficial effect on the skin and can be metabolized by good bacteria so that good flora flourishes and the balance of the microbiome is maintained.

Two-Phase Make-Up Removing Solution removes all types of make-up from eyes and lips, including waterproof, without leaving oily residues. Designed for optimum tolerance, it is enriched with precious active softening ingredients.

Brightening Cleansing Foam has a feather-light texture that cleanses the face incredibly gently, leaving skin soft and luminous without any feeling of “tightness”. Designed for optimum tolerance, including for sensitive skins, it is enriched with precious active brightening and soothing ingredients.

Cleansing is an imperative at all ages and the Collistar muchloved Anti-Age Cleansing Milk and Anti-Age Toning Lotion have been updated to make the formula even more effective and tolerable, while the texture and unmistakable fragrance remain the same. With Hyaluronic Acid and active anti-age and energizing ingredients, the formulas have been enriched with inulin – a natural prebiotic – to protect the skin’s barrier and its natural microbiome.

Deep Cleansing Gel-Cream is designed to cleanse the face deep down, with a cream-gel texture that purifies the skin without drying it out. Designed for optimum tolerance even for sensitive skins, it is enriched with a special active botanical ingredient to purify and rebalance the skin. The unique texture means it can be used on a wet or dry face, to suit all skin types: from normal to dry and from combination to oily.

The new cleansing range comes with a fresh, contemporary new design, as featured on the 100% recycled and recyclable plastic bottled and 70% recycled and recyclable plastic tube. The outer packaging has been eliminated to reduce paper consumption.

With every purchase from the cleansing range, as long as stocks last, there is a free gift of a pure bamboo fibre cloth, the perfect addition to the daily facial cleansing ritual.

The soft, delicate fabric helps remove make-up and impurities, with a gentle exfoliating action.

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REPORT

BEAUTYSTREAMS China Consumer Mindset Shifts Changing Attitudes

As the world struggles through different phases of lockdown, China has emerged as one of the most resilient markets. China’s economy advanced 2.3% last year, making it the only major economy to report growth, although the growth was still its weakest in 44 years. China’s economy is widely predicted to expand by more than 8% in 2021. While many global companies are looking to China, the market is quickly changing and complex to navigate. Applying the same international marketing approach and trend analysis as elsewhere would not be effective. Urban consumers in China are very savvy and expect to see products and marketing specifically targeted to them. BEAUTYSTREAMS’ special China Color Cosmetics Trends Report identifies eight consumer mindset shifts significant in China today and in the years to come. Taking into consideration those consumer mindsets, we developed original marketing storytelling, make-up looks, and packaging curated for the Chinese market. The following are some highlights from that report.

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Some trends that were already emerging preCOVID-19 have been further accelerated by the pandemic. National Pride, a trend that has been simmering in recent years, is now in full swing.

Whereas the older generations in China often favored foreign labels, younger consumers are supporting the plethora of exciting new local beauty brands that have launched on the market in the past several years. Another important mindset shift is the rise of Girl Power thanks to a new generation of Chinese feminists. Standing Out is another key shift.

Culturally, most Chinese people do not like to appear different from the norm, but younger consumers are now daring to distinguish and express themselves.

As consumers, they want to be among the first to discover niche, less common brands and products.

Sk’inclusivity is another emerging trend, still new in China, which we forecast will quickly scale up. Most color cosmetics brands in China offer only two to five foundation shades, with few choices for darker skin tones. Now a growing number of KOL’s and celebrities are embracing their natural tan complexions, which will prompt some brands to extend their shades by several nuances. As China is the world’s largest gaming market, Virtual Immersion is a trend that will grow. Expect that alternative digital dimensions will continue to inspire brands and consumers via hyperreal beauty looks, marketing storytelling, and retail innovations. Throughout the pandemic, SelfCare and the emotional and physical comfort it provides becomes just as important as appearance.

The COVID-19 lockdowns around the world have made consumers more accustomed to well-being rituals at home. While in China, the so-called “996 workstyles”, i.e., 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. six days a week schedules, prompt increasing numbers of careerdriven Post-90s to embrace self-care rituals during the rare moments they have for themselves.

At the same time, fitness and the pursuit of perfection is also a growing movement in China.

Gym memberships and non-invasive cosmetic interventions log a steady growth in the country,

REPORT

showing that Self Optimization is, and will continue to be, important among the active population in the upcoming years. Lastly, with China’s US$400-billion investment in ecological programs since 2017 (twice as much as the European Union), the country has emerged as one of the global leaders in the field.

This is reflected in a growing awareness among consumers who want a Holistic Life, including sustainability for themselves, but also for the environment. Discover more details in our China Color Cosmetics Trend Report.

Courting Chinese Consumers Through Color, Storytelling & Packaging The color cosmetics category in China is moving at a rapid pace. Many new local brands are launching on the market and the competition is heating up.

For international companies, courting Chinese consumers means having a deep understanding of local mindsets, tastes, and skin tones.

BEAUTYSTREAMS’ special China Color Cosmetics Trends Report presents marketing storytelling, make-up looks, and packaging adapted to the Chinese market. The following are some highlights from that report.

Upcoming Color Trends: Chromatic Nature Color trends draw on the lush beauty of nature’s own hues. This latest evolution sees a spectrum

inspired by surreal winter landscapes, as textures and effects twist shades with touches of fantasy that will resonate with Chinese consumers.

Color directions include Silent Sky, a color group inspired by painterly landscapes, which uses layering for subtle effects. A simple, straightforward approach prevails within the cool, inviting brown palette of Winter Woods. Murky Lake is a celebration of greens with delicate pearlescent effects and warm undertones. Glow Orange is a vivid palette - a sumptuous and warm counterbalance to the overall coolness of the other palettes.

Storytelling Territories: Neo-Minimalism & Creative Digitalism Taking into consideration the consumer mindset shifts, BEAUTYSTREAMS curated two stories for the Chinese market: Minify and Kooks. Seemingly contradictory, they will resonate with the diversity of the Chinese consumer taste spectrum.

The Minify story elevates the ”urge to purge.” Not to be misunderstood as minimalism, this is simplification at its purest, truest, and most characterful. By only selectively holding onto objects that evoke a precious memory or bring happiness, layers of excess are removed to allow true personality to shine through.

The Kooks story invites us to experience the reality of the future where sci-fi becomes sci-real with limitless capabilities. The future is now, coming through in a transient, mid-place space where boundaries between what’s real and not are blurred.

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REPORT

Make-up Look Directions: Streamlined & Surreal Developing the stories further, our Studio team in Paris and Sydney created original directions for make-up, hair, and nail looks. Curated specifically for Chinese consumer skin tones and regional tastes, Minify looks see astute downsizers creating a refined style with a pared-back product list. By streamlining, they focus on the essential, proving that downsizing doesn’t mean empty, dull, or minimal; but rather, honest and transparent. This results in powerful, striking looks, that revel in personality.

In the Kooks story, make-up looks are treated like superheroes. We present an imaginary superhero character whose power is to exert control over optical effects and illusions, creating a surreal version of reality. This is captured in Kook’s make-up, hair, and nail looks.

Packaging Trends: Sustainable Simplicity & Holistic Futurism Packaging trend directions for the Minify story reflects consumers’ growing desire to edit down their environment and possessions to their most functional, stylish essentials. The idea is that the objects they do keep are useful, sustainable, and convey a personality, as well as a point of view.

When it comes to packaging design, Minify promotes natural materials, spare decoration, and flat, neutral colors. Indeed, some of the packaging materials are compostable, so they can become part of the earth again when discarded, rather than needing to be recycled. Minify illustrates that sustainable simplicity can tell a compelling design story. The Kooks story explores a liminal world in which digital fantasy and reality converge. This universe appeals to the young Kooks consumer who is accustomed to a world in which such boundaries are increasingly obscured.

The concept’s hyper-real, pearl surfaces could only have been created in the digital space, while its shapes take the form of avatars, which change and morph in response to the user’s well-being. Surfaces have a calming, futuristic quality - ideal for virtual world conceived with wellbeing in mind.

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Artdeco presents its new Green Couture Collection

GREEN COUTURE

by Artdeco Sustainability is not just the latest buzzword for ARTDECO: it has been in its DNA since its beginnings as a family business, from in-house production to home-working to the refillable system at the centrepiece of the collections.

The three pillars on which the new Green Couture collection is based are sustainability, naturalness and top performance, to offer every woman sustainable products enriched with natural ingredients, with the customary excellent product performance.

The naturalness starts from the ingredients: between 60% to 99% of the texture ingredients are of natural origin and do not contain mineral oils, parabens, D5/ D6 silicones, microplastic beads, PEGs/compounds, GMOs or nanomaterials. The palm oil, if used, is only RSPO-certified. Like the whole of the ARTDECO range, all the products in this line are cruelty-free.

The lipsticks and lip liners are suitable for sensitive skins, free from mineral oils, parabens, silicones, PEGs/compounds, talc and GMOs and skin compatibility is dermatologically approved.

Packaging, which is also an important area in which ARTDECO has made great efforts in the cause of

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sustainability, has also found innovative solutions made from sustainable materials, with the detailed information on the product inside the folding box, eliminating extra materials. For example, the packaging of several products is made from at least 40% rice husk powder as well as PP, PETG and PS. The folding box in made from paper from sustainable forestry, the printing is non-toxic and environmentally-friendly with water-based inks. The label is made from 100% recycled polyethylene.

For the Natural Liquid Eyeliner, the packaging is made from glass, PP and aluminium. The pencils are made from wood from sustainable forestry, with caps in a recyclable material and the Double Sharpener is made of at least 85% of MATER_BI material and about 15% of bioplastic and is biodegradable.

The blades are made of high quality high carbon steel and not stainless steel, therefore they rust and break down. The Multi Powder Brush is environmentallyfriendly, made from dense, super-soft synthetic fibres, with a recycled aluminium ferrule and a handle containing biodegradable wheat straw and a bioplastic polylactide obtained from natural raw materials.

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The products

In a further step towards sustainability, top-performing products enriched with natural ingredients

Natural Cream Lipstick, with its 80% of natural ingredients, combines the powers of nature with the must-haves of a modern lipstick. Colour paired with a silky sheen ensures lips appear even and balanced.

The palette ranges from classic reds to nude shades, from berry tones to pinks that accentuate the lips.

The Smooth Lip Liner has 85% of natural ingredients such as shea butter and marula oil, which is non-irritating and ideal for sensitive skins. The liner precisely corrects the shape of the lips and expressively emphasizes them. The colour range is extensive, from perfect reds to rosewoods and from nudes to delicate shades of pink.

The Smooth Eye Liner is a perfect combination of natural oils, waxes and fats which nourish the skin and keep it supple. It is also lipid-replenishing, moisture-binding and prevents moisture loss, with a creamy, colour-intensive and long-lasting special texture that glides effortlessly along the eyelids.

It is easy to sharpen with the Double Sharpener, for precise application. The Natural Skin Bronzer gives the complexion a tanned glow, perfecting skin tone.

In the shade “bronzing hues”, it has a revitalizing and visually restructuring effect, as well as rejuvenating properties. Also for the face, the Silky Powder Blush gives the cheekbones a touch of colour, with intensity variable from subtle to striking, depending on the amount applied. The two shades available allow choosing between a fresh shade of peach or a touch of rosé. The Natural Trio Blush “peach perfect” offers three shades to be applied individually or mixed, giving cheekbones a hint of colour, again with

The eight shades range from black to grey, from intense blue to olive green and brown. The Natural Liquid Eyeliner, with only eleven ingredients, 80% of which are natural, is very comfortable to wear and gives a matte finish. The incorporated brush can be used to draw both fine and intensive lines. The Natural Brow Liner delivers a natural finish and its water-resistant formula ensures perfectly styled brows for hours. It comes in four shades to subtly contour brows and fill small gaps where needed.

The Smooth Eyeshadow Stick glides smoothly over skin and can be used as an eyeshadow or highlighter. The natural colours with shiny, shimmering effects can be matched individually and are long-lasting. The colour palette consists of ten shades for subtle eye make-up.

varying intensity depending on the amount applied.

The versatile Multi Powder Brush can be used for both loose and compact powder. Its round brush head is ideal for soft contours. The Natural Cream Concealer adheres well to the skin and has a silky, extremely light texture that glides over the skin, guaranteeing a second skin effect. The result is a natural and radiant make-up. It comes in four shades.

Finally, the Natural Finish Compact Foundation has a fine texture that makes the complexion spear even and silky-soft, mattifying shiny areas.

Intensity of the colour can be varied, depending on the amount applied. Two shades are offered in this vegan product, of which the skin compatibility is dermatologically approved.

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2021 September 22|23

NEW YORK Javits Center

MakeUp in NewYork is the exclusive BtoB event for brands with global skincare and make-up offers from ingredients, formulation, design, packaging, accessories to full service suppliers .

Get your free invitation here : www.makeup-in-newyork.com @MakeUpinWorld

@MakeUpinWorld

@makeupin_world

in

@MakeUp in

The Glo.Cal BtoB event boosting Beauty Innovation

INTERVIEW

The cosmetics industry never gives up!

Interview with Sandra Maguarian, Co-founder and Director of the MakeUp in™ brand, an international reference for tradeshows, specialized in makeup and skincare sector.

Full of optimism, Sandra takes stock of the field and announces new shows EXPORT MAGAZINE: Each year, these events bring together thousands of visitors and BtoB exhibitors around the world. Unfortunately, since 2020 the shows are on hold, how are you handling it?

Sandra Maguarian: The events sector has been on hold for over a year. Nevertheless, MakeUp in Shanghai was able to take place last July in the midst of the pandemic and observed a growth of more than 20% for the number of visitors, what a paradox!

This unprecedented situation revealed the creative potential of my entire team. In just two months, they were able to set up the interactive platform BeauteaMatch.com which allowed us to keep in touch with the community. In addition, we are incredibly lucky to be in a group (INFOPRO-DIGITAL) which, thanks to the diversity of its portfolio, has been able to support us

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and keep our jobs for the benefit of an entire industry.

I remain convinced that physical shows are the best business providers for beauty suppliers.

EM: What is the program for the coming months for MakeUp in™?

SM: The second semester concentrates all of our exhibitions usually spread over a year.

MakeUp in Shanghai will be held on July 7 and 8, MakeUp in New York on September 22 and 23, Clean Beauty in London on October 12 and 13 and MakeUp in Paris on October 20 and 21. We’ll end the year with the amazing MakeUp in Los Angeles on December 9 and 10.

It’s a lot of preparatory work but there will be new things in terms of animation with new works and conviviality spaces, digital communication etc.

INTERVIEW

We never lose sight of the fact that our exhibitors are there to showcase their know-how and all our energy is focused on this.

EM: What do your shows mean to exhibitors and professional visitors?

SM: I have the feeling that in many ways the Makeup in - and soon to be Clean Beauty - tradeshows are a creative refuge and an expert response in an exclusive area of ​​makeup / care. We can find the same spirit as the 17th century salons where we met each other linked by the same center of interest. At Makeup in, it is all the same. Exhibitors know that only brands from the beauty sector will visit them. It is a mutual benefit of commercial, sociological, cultural exchanges with museum exhibitions, conferences on colors, on consumer behavior or, creative workshops.

Above all, this is the huge opportunity to do business.

MakeUp in shows are an experience for the whole industry chain, with interactions between exhibitors as well. It is where brands discover beauty innovations.

EM: You are soon launching a new show in London, “Clean beauty”. What is this show for and what kind of exhibitors can you find?

SM: Here again, our listening to the market shows all its power since for two years the “clean beauty” movement - responsible cosmetics, non-toxic for humans and nature - is booming.

It was at this point that the need for an event was felt.

The launch delay, due to the pandemic, allowed us to refine the concept and focus on the innovation in this area.

Our exhibitors will be the suppliers of beauty brands in skincare, haircare, makeup, hygiene etc. who will meet the clean beauty brands of today and tomorrow.

EM: How did you manage to stay in touch with your visitors and exhibitors during this COVID crisis?

SM: By being worldwide with our local exhibitions, we have always had very privileged contacts with our exhibitors.

Yet they come from a variety of industries ranging from ingredients to packaging and formulation, but they all form a family - the MakeUp in family - that we take great care of. The Covid crisis has hardly changed the frequency of our communications. We created the BeauteaMatch. com platform which offers suppliers and cosmetic brands to keep in touch, to continue to present new products, and focuses on innovation and information in the sector.

EM: Your ranks have grown to welcome new “skincare” exhibitors. What is it in a few words and what is the link with makeup?

SM: Makeup in is a living brand that adapts to markets and needs. When it came to support the Brazilian market, we went to Brazil. For K-Beauty we went to Seoul. We support the emergence of indie brands in Los Angeles and so on. When again brand marketing managers asked us to expand our offering to ingredients, we did. Today we are witnessing a takeover of the hybridization of makeup and skincare. With ever more sophisticated claims such as a mascara that promotes eyelash regrowth, a moisturizing lipstick... Hybridization is born from the BB cream. So yes, Makeup in salons are - and have been for several years now - targeting both skincare and makeup brands.

EM: How do you see 2022?

SM: I am extremely positive for 2022.

The need to free ourselves from our chains will be such that there will be a boom in cosmetic purchases.

We will finally be able to meet and erase the traces of the distorting images of video conversations!

Thanks to research and innovation, the cosmetics industry never gives up and anticipates consumer trends, needs and expectations in terms of diversity or performance. Therefore, I predict happy days for the cosmetics industry and its players while caring for everyone’s health, especially at our shows.

C.S.

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REJUV’OIL

by ARÔMÉLIA

AN EXCEPTIONAL OIL FOR FACE AND BODY An unsaponifiable concentrate from Maracuja Oil, a patented, eco-designed active ingredient obtained by a molecular distillation process, repairs skin tissue at three levels. This oil repairs, tightens and smooths weak and damaged skin, regenerating, restructuring and remodelling it.

Skincare with a maximum concentration of ingredients for three actions in one product

Christiane Benet has been fascinated by the power of essential oils and natural plant extracts for numerous years now and is a pioneer in dry oils for the face and body. She has devoted the past two years, with her daughter Caroline, to the creation of a unique treatment for absolutely everyone: Rejuv’Oil. For the beautification of the face and body, Rejuv’Oil is exceptional skincare with three main actions: it has anti-ageing benefits, it reduces stretch marks and has a refining action, thanks to a maximum concentration of ingredients from scientific research.

It contains twenty-two powerful plant concentrates and energizing essential oils, delicately scented by its precious aroma. Formulated without preservatives, colour or fragrances, its innovative texture gently infuses the heart of the skin, leaving it sublimed, toned and plumped. For the anti-ageing action, an active blend of lemon, rosemary, sage, mint and thyme essential oils leaves the skin bright and vitalized, boosted and energized by the plants’ actions.

In addition, extracts of Lupin seeds stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. The active molecules from the seeds improve skin suppleness and firmness and tighten areas of sagging skin.

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Tomato carotenoids allow improving the elasticity of the skin, improvement of the appearance of stretch marks and orange peel and improvement of inflammation. The combination of linen, borage, almond and olive oils give Rejuv’Oil antioxidant properties to improve tissue elasticity and reshape areas of sagging skin.

Rejuv’Oil helps reduce recent stretch marks, and tones and firms at the same time. An extract of plankton detoxifies, helps reshape contours of the silhouette by acceleraing the burning of fat. The appearance and the texture of the skin are improved.

The surface of the thighs, hips and abdomen is smoothed. Tests have shown that after 34 days of treatment with two applications daily, Rejuv’Oil had markedly reduced the redness of the stretch marks, notably improving the condition of the skin affected by the problem. The product can quickly improve the elasticity and the smoothness of the stretched skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Rejuv’Oil can be used by women and men on the face to deal with ageing, dry skin and sensitive skin Thanks to its rapid penetration, when used on the body it is possible to get dressed immediately afterwards. It can be used as a toning massage after the shower, once or twice a day for a nourishing, firming, reshaping and refining action. To reduce stretch marks, the areas concerned should be lightly massaged with the oil morning and evening for two months, but not if pregnant or breastfeeding.

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OPEN SKY

BY BYREDO CELEBRATES SUSPENDED TIME The pandemic has meant that travelling has become a thing of the past, a memory of what many did, taking it for granted that you could wake up in the morning and go to bed in a different place, town, city or even continent. We have become prisoners in our own homes, the horizon limited to places where it is essential for us to go, whether to work or to buy food for survival.

The new limited edition fragrance explores the void between departure and destination

Enlarging the radius of our movements seems a very distant feat and we have to rely on our memories, as Byredo does, to relive the excitement and anticipation of travelling somewhere different. Hopefully this suspended time will soon come to an end and we can once again savour the travel experience.

The inspiration for this new limited edition fragrance was the period of immobility. In the words of Ben Gorham, Creative Director and Founder of Byredo, “Although we are stuck in one place, our memories have become particularly vivid- and what I remember most often is travelling. Beyond the physical nature of spaces, that idea of movement – of travel, of being on to road somewhere - is something that I really miss.

The void that exists between one place and another is what I wanted to capture.” Open Sky is a metaphysical tribute to the travel experience: a distillation of the journey itself, full of anticipation. By exploring the void between departure and destination, and the abstract appeal of an infinite horizon, this is a fragrance that does not exist here or there - but celebrates suspended time. Through the lively pomelo veiled with hemp leaves, the electricity of the expectations is high again. A seductive undercurrent – the spiciness of black pepper, the boisé romance of Palo Santo, the inebriating appeal of vetiver - offers a transcendent dimensionality to the refreshing realm of citrus fruit. This limited edition boundless blend has been created to evoke infinite possibilities.

This Eau de Parfum comes in the iconic signature Byredo 100 ml bottle.

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events

Cosmoprof north America (CPnA), the largest B2B beauty exhibition in the Americas, will host its 18th edition August 29th - 31st at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las vegas. The award-winning event will be the first live b2b exhibition of the Cosmoprof international network, offering domestic and international retailers, distributors, beauty brands and suppliers the unique opportunity to come together, make new relationships, and get inspired. This year, Cosmoprof north America is dedicated to

providing a safe environment for attendees.

In accordance with government regulations and guidelines, there will be capacity limits, physical distancing, increased sanitation and other safety measures. “Cosmoprof north America is proud to be the first Cosmoprof event in 2021 which will be held in a physical format,” highlights enrico Zannini, General Manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof. “We are looking forward to getting back to the show floor and meeting our community in Las vegas again, all while

ensuring a safe experience and following government regulations. new beauty brands will be able to introduce their revolutionary technologies, product innovations, and new channels for distribution, packaging, and manufacturing. With the strong first quarter performance and anticipated continued U.s economic growth projected for 2021, Cosmoprof north America is excited to provide exhibitors and operators with an optimistic return to the functional event space.

COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA IS READY TO KICK-OFF ON AUGUST 29th-31st

The 18th edition of Cosmoprof north America will be introducing new initiatives including a special area dedicated to CBD Beauty, new partnership with Ready to Beauty and a mentorship program from leading industry experts. the new CBD Beauty sector will be an all-inclusive special area on the show floor curated for beauty brands that have CBD as an essential ingredient in their entire product line and the suppliers that cater to them.

The 18th edition will open its doors to international companies and stakeholders, following all safety regulations As part of Cosmoprof north America’s ongoing commitment to help multicultural beauty entrepreneurs and brands, the award-winning event is excited to collaborate with Ready to Beauty on ReADIness is the neW GReen: An economic Data study on the Business of Multicultural Beauty in America, a firstof-its-kind economic data study focused

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on multicultural beauty. As an extension of this data study and a direct result of responses from it, ReADY to BeAUtY, along with Cosmoprof north America, is announcing the formation of a soon-tolaunch national #BankBlack banking and finance program to specifically support niche & emerging Black/African American beauty entrepreneurs and brands.

Cosmoprof north America has also created a Mentorship Program to help promising beauty brands’ dreams come to fruition. this program offers exhibitors the unique opportunity to have 20-minute one-on-one mentoring sessions with founders, CeOs, and executives bringing with them decades of experience. Mentors will be providing guidance in the following areas: retail & distribution, branding, funding, exporting, digital marketing & performance, seO, social media, press, trends, and the multicultural market. Cosmoprof north America will also be bringing back its three macro-sector divisions to facilitate the visit of qualified attendees.

• Cosmetics & Personal Care hosts finished products for skincare, personal

care, fragrances, make-up, and organic and natural beauty.

• Cosmopack is ready to welcome leading companies for the supply chain.

• Professional Beauty is the section dedicated to the professional channel, with hair care, accessories, and furnishings for hair salons, beauty salons and spas.

“We are thrilled to be one of the first major events to bring all sectors of the beauty community back together again,” shares steve sleeper, executive Director of the Professional Beauty Association, “We are dedicated to providing a compelling, engaging event that allows the industry to reconnect while maintaining the safest environment possible for our exhibitors, attendees and partners. the future of beauty is brighter than ever, with strong economic indicators, revolutionary innovations and unprecedented technological advances.” the event, which is recognized worldwide for its dynamic growth and unique programs, will offer stakeholders an opportunity to come together after the pandemic has imposed social distancing and travel restrictions for almost 12 months.

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The new fragrance in a him and her version that interprets Mediterranean emotions

ESSENZA

BY ACQUA DELL’ELBA: THE FRAGRANCE THAT IS BORN FROM THE SEA Acqua dell’Elba is a brand based on the isle of Elba, off the coast of Tuscany, that is well known for being the authentic interpreter of the sensations and emotions of the sea. Its new fragrance, Essenza, in a version for him and one for her, comes in painted glass bottles made by Tuscan craftsmen in the classic pale green of Acqua dell’Elba. L’Eau de Parfum for Women opens with the delicate notes of Bergamot, Orange, Sea Lily and Broom: the middlenotes are based on Jasmine, Magnolia, Orange Blossom, Lily of the Valley, Rose, Ruberose and Pepper; the base notes are WhiteMusk,CedarWood, Scents of Amber and Woods and Resins from the Mediterranean maquis. The version for men of the Eau de Parfum opens with the notes of Lemon, Bergamot, Marine Cistus and Sage; the heart notes are based on Jasmine, Violet, Geranium and Pepper, and the base notes are marine Algae, Oak Wood, CedarWood, Lentiscus Wood and Strawberry Tree Wood.

The testimonials for Essenza are Vanessa Benelli Mosell, a pianist and conductor and Jacopo Taddei, a young saxophonist from Elba whose name has already crossed the national frontiers.

Professionals selected for their talent and creativity, which has always been a source of inspiration for every Acqua dell’Elba article, the two artists have composed a piece of music specifically dedicated to Essenza and written by Jacopo Taddei. These musical notes join the olfactory notes to create a journey into the essence of Acqua dell’Elba and the sea. Essenza is also a line of bath products, for him and for her, consisting of a Moisturizing Body Cream, Hyaluronic Acid Cream, Shower Gel and Exfoliating Scrub.

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FLASH/NEWS

TRUSSARDI TRUSSARDIPRESENTS

STOELZLE CREATES AN EXCLUSIVE REFILLABLE BOTTLE FOR SILLAGES PARIS

Sillages Paris is a young brand, which was founded in 2017

by Maxime Garcia-Janin after he had worked for three years for the most important luxury brands. He decided to create his own brand to offer everyone the chance to compose their own perfumes online: a 3.0 revolution to reach a new generation. This different offer has won overall generations of the public, delighted to be able to create a fragrance to their personal taste, simply by choosing favourite ingredients online or in the Paris atelier, with the advice, if desired, of the brand’s perfumers. The fragrances are all hand crafted by master perfumers at the brand’s premises near the famous Bastille. These talented “noses” are Amélie Jacquin, Mylène Alran, Alex Lee, Nisrines Grillie and Sébastien Plan. All the ingredients are clean and natural and the fragrances are vegan and not tested on animals. In addition, all the fragrances are also sustainable and refillable. Stoelzle Masnières Parfumeri sas, the famous French glassmakers previously known as Verreries de Masnières joined the Stoelzle Glass Group in 2013 and has become the Group’s centre of excellence for perfume and cosmetic bottle. Stoelzle Masnières has accompanied Sillages Paris for five years now and the fragrance brand now uses a new exclusive cube-shaped refillable bottle, which is even more eco-responsible with 45.6% recycled PCR and PIR glass, no metallization or laser etching, an engraved signature on the bottom and a UV lacquering.

36 the use of an unscrewable pump and a screw ring Lastly, allows optimum recycling of the various elements.

This new classic fragrance has been conceived for the empowered woman of today, who is strong and independent and always in the driver’s seat of her life. It is on these founding values of contemporary femininity that Trussardi has built up a new classic in the art of perfumery and an authentic seal of identity for the greyhound brand. Using typical Italian ingredients, Julie Massé and Violaine Collas (Mane) have created a fragrance that evokes all the elegance and sun-drenched positivity of Italy. The olfactory score revolved around the cardinal points of Italianness and feminine audacity, with top notes of Neroli, Italian Mandarin and an Italian Accord, a heart of courage and pride, with Lavender, Jasmine Absolute and White Dahlia Accord and feminine and hypnotic base notes of a Suede Accord, a Violet Accord and Patchouli. The bottle is an authentic piece of contemporary Italian design, with this perfect cylindrical shape, evoking the sophisticated columnlike lines of women’s dresses in the 1970s, when the women’s liberation movement started. It also recalls an elegant object of design from the magical period of Memphis, the creative workshop of Mendini and Sottsass, suggested by the striped decoration of the upper part of the bottle. The box is an elegant cylinder in recycled and FSC certified paper, It reproduces the effect of contemporary sophisticated elegance of the bottle with a series of coloured lines in the typical chromatic palette of the new feminism, which does not reject femininity: white, rose, black and gold. The project of this new iconic fragrance is a green commitment, in the selection of partners attentive to the same objective of eco-compatibility shared with the brand.

The visual campaign accompanies a photo of the bottle on a dark glass table with an intense close-up of Noel Berry, top model and celebrity, against the backdrop of the scenic Lake Como, shot by Mariano Vivanco. Her natural glamour is exalted by a sensual leather top which underlines her audacity and expresses the style of the Trussardi tradition. In the advertising film, this audacity and supreme self-confidence is shown when the testimonial expertly drives a prestigious motor-boat herself, to reach a sumptuous lakeside villa where a Hollywood film starring her is to be premiered. She reveals her secret to a small girl who is one of her fans, saying “Let me tell you a secret: in life always remember to take the driving seat.” It is a fantastic message of empowerment and self-confidence for the Trussardi woman she is and for the Trussardi woman the little girl will grow up to be.

LAUNCH

TEA BALM

a new concept of lip treatment from Teaology Tea Balm is a luxurious lip treatment based on the principles of clean beauty. The range, which comprises five coloured lip treatments and one transparent protective lip treatment, benefits from nourishing and regenerating natural extracts (94% of the ingredients are of natural origin), extract of antioxidant tea and vegan colourings. The coloured lip treatments are

nourishing, volumizing, with a melting texture, and the shades can be built up from natural to intense.

The shades are Vanilla Tea, Peach Tea, Rose Tea, Cherry Tea and Berry Tea. The Transparent Matcha Protective Lip Treatment is nourishing, repairing and replumping. Clinically tested and made in Italy, they all have a delightful aroma.

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FLASH/NEWS

ESXENCE THE ART PERFUMERY EVENT

The twelfth edition is confirmed and will take place from 17th to 20th March 2022

The organisation of Esxence – The Art Perfumery Event announces that the twelfth edition of the most important event dedicated to the Art Perfumery will take place from 17th to 20th March 2022 at MiCo, Milano Convention Centre. “We are working on this important appointment to keep it as the reference point of innovation and of the stylistic and aesthetic research of the Art Perfumery and to make it as special and innovative as possible; to this end, we have decided to reposition the event in March 2022 in order to encourage the presence of the audience from the most important foreign countries, with a view to preserving the international profile of the event and launching a new phase

of Esxence, rich in content and insights” – says Maurizio Cavezzali, CEO of Equipe Exibit. In conjunction with the event, from 17th to 20th March 2022, in the spaces of MiCo, Milano Convention Centre, it will be held the second edition of Experience Lab – promoted

by Experience Me – the appointment dedicated to niche and excellence beauty.

EXPERIENCE LAB International Beauty Exhibition

The second edition of Experience Lab, the international niche beauty exhibition, is set to take place from March 17-20 2022 at MiCo, Milano Convention Centre CityLife District.

At the same time, the spaces of MiCo, Milano Convention Centre, will be also hosting the 12th edition of Esxence – The Art Perfumery Event, the international appointment dedicated to niche fragrances promoted by Equipe Exibit.

WORLD HALAL AUTHORITY A GREAT SUCCESS FOR THE ITALIAN EDITION OF “THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY & THE HALAL REVOLUTION”

The Italian edition of the event “The Cosmetic Industry & the Halal Revolution” organized by the WHA – World Halal Authority (www.wha-halal.org), the only Italian body of Halal Certification accredited at worldwide level, was held on Friday 14 May. We are going through a historic period at global level in which Italian companies need every support to be able to overcome this delicate moment of difficulty. Italian products are loved all over the world and Italy has to face this challenge by taking all the opportunities that arise. The Halal cosmetic market in recent years has grown enormously and the Halal issue takes us to look at the near future as an opportunity at worldwide level, a market of $66 billion which is revolutionizing the global cosmetic industry. The topics dealt with greatly engaged the participants who showed strong interest. Chromavis Spa, the guest of the webinar as a success story, explained in detail the technical requirements a company must have to access the Halal cosmetic market. The guests included Dr. Claudio Barbesino, Principal Managing Partner CSolution Italia, and Dr. Gian Andrea Positano, head of the research department of Cosmetica Italia, who talked about market opportunities for Halal cosmetics; Dario Antonio Barbatano, Head of Marketing of the World Halal Authority, who spoke about the marketing strategies for Halal cosmetics and Dr. Mohamed Elkafrawy CEO of the World Halal Authority who explained in detail the importance of the decision of the Certification body, of the accreditations the bodies must have to issue Halal certificates and how to check that they are effectively valid. During the webinar, one very important piece of information emerged which is that of the Halal market in areas such as America, Russia and France, underlining that Halal products are very sought after by non-Muslims as well. Many of the participants of “The Cosmetic Industry & The Halal Revolution” understood in detail how rich this market is, what its horizons of growth are and how to obtain the best commercial results. WHA – World Halal Authority is ready to present future webinars and all the information for companies that want to approach the Halal market can be found on the Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/worldhalalauthority.

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2nd International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair Home Care, Private Label, Packaging and Ingredients

ICC - Istanbul Congress Center - Taksim, Istanbul - Turkey

6 in in 11 EVENT EVENT 6 TARGET CLIENT PROGRAM • Personalized client leads for exhibitors • Connecting target markets and target audience directly

ONLINE REGIONAL BUYER MEETINGS

24/7, 365 DAYS ACTIVE: O2O ONLINE PLATFORM

Periodical exclusive buyer meetings

Reach 12.378 buyers from 175 countries in a click

HOSTED BUYER PROGRAM

VIRTUAL FAIR • Supported by the infrastructure of O2O Online Platform

• Delicately selected high-quality buyers from all over the world

• Strong user base and 2 years of expertise in digital events

PHYSICAL TRADE FAIR

• 756 Exclusive Hosted Buyers from 120 countries

2nd BEAUTYISTANBUL Exhibition October, 14-15-16, 2021

www.beauty-istanbul.com Organizer

Tel: +90 212 2229060

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+90 533 4843030 |

info@beauty-istanbul.com

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION

EVENTS

BEAUTYISTANBUL DON’T MISS NEXT APPOINTMENT IN OCTOBER

BEAUTYISTANBUL’s 9th and 10th Online Regional Meetings focusing on Middle East and North Africa regions were great success with a total of 403 buyers participating, following Central Asia, East Africa, Central America & Caribbean and Sub-Saharan Africa meetings respectively held in September, November, December and February; reaching 1363 buyers in total participating from 81 countries. BEAUTYISTANBUL Middle East and North Africa Online Meetings were held on March 31st and April 7th, 2021 in 2 sessions covering both regions. Meeting

1 hosted 214 buyers from 11 countries including Bahrain, Iraq, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Palestine, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates and Yemen.Meeting 2 hosted 189 buyers from 6 countries such as Algeria, Egypt, Libya, Morocco, Sudan and Tunisia. Participants included distributors, importers, retailers and wholesalers from the region, along with 110 suppliers from Turkey, Italy, Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, Croatia, France, India, Korea, Lebanon, Malaysia, Netherlands, San Marino, Spain, United Kingdom and United States of America.

403 buyers from 17 Middle East and North Africa countries connected with BeautyIstanbul exhibitors

The 1st meeting started with welcoming remarks of H.E. Ilhomjon Abdrurrahmanov, Consul General of Republic of Tajikistan in Dubai-UAE, Mr. Firas Al Hamadani, President of Baghdad Chamber of Commerce, Mr. Murat Albayrak, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Amman-Jordan, Mr. Atilla Ugur Basbug, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Kuwait CityKuwait, Mr. Sabahaddin Tarhan, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Jerusalem-Palestine, Ms. Rana Abusibaa, Commercial Counsellor of the State of Palestine in Ankara-Turkey, Ms. Ece Aksop, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Muscat-Oman, Mr. Abedallah F. Al-Banna, President of Jordan Dead Sea Manufacturers Association and Mrs. Gergana Andreeva,

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Executive Director of Bulgarian National Association for Essential Oils, Perfumery and Cosmetics (BNAOEPC). The meeting continued with the introduction speeches of important buyers from the region and BEAUTYISTANBUL suppliers. Important attendees of Meeting 1 included Madi International and Majid Al Futtaim Retail - Carrefour from United Arab Emirates, Ramez Group from Bahrain, Lulu Hypermarket from Qatar, Alowaid Trading and Lemon Pharmacies Group from Saudi Arabia, Royal Beauty Group from Kuwait, Somerland General Trading from Iraq, Lattafa LLC from Oman, Abdel Sater Group from Lebanon, EMS Jordan from Jordan, SAMA CO from Palestine and Ibrahim Ali A.Eshack Corp (AHIM) from Yemen.

EVENTS

Meeting 2 opened with welcoming remarks of H.E. Kenan Yilmaz, Ambassador of Republic of Turkey in Trablus-Libya, Mr. Mehmet Elbir, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in CasablancaMorocco, Mr. Göktug Bayri, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Khartoum-Sudan Mr. Müjdat Emre Semiz, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Tunis-Tunisia, Director of Tunisian Union Of Industry, Commerce and Crafts (U.T.I.C.A.), Mr. Anis Gharbi, Events Director of Izmir Chamber of Commerce, Mr. Aykut Terzioglu, President of Algerian Federation of Importers and Manufacturers of Cosmetics Hamadouche Majda and Event Manager of World Trade Center Algeria, Idir Kamla.

The meeting continued with the introduction speeches of important buyers from the region and BEAUTYISTANBUL suppliers. Important participants of Meeting 2 included Carrefour Algerie from Algeria, Nibrasdis Beauty & Barber Supplies from Morocco, Seif Group from Egypt, Kilani Groupe from Tunisia, Alnama Co from Libya and Bawakeer Int. Co. Ltd from Sudan.

BEAUTYISTANBUL’s experienced team of 25 people fluent in 10 languages and local contacts in SubSaharan Africa showed their difference from other B2B

organizers once more by bringing together some of the biggest companies in the region to attend the online meetings. Despite the global pandemic postponing exhibitions and limiting face to face interaction, BEAUTYISTANBUL aims to provide additional valueadded services to businesses worldwide. With already over 12,500 registered buyers from 175 countries and over 5,000 products uploaded since January 1st, 2019, BEAUTYISTANBUL’s O2O Online Platform is a clear leader in the hybrid exhibition sector. In addition to the O2O Online Platform, value-added services such as personalized Target Client Program, Online Regional Buyer Meetings and Virtual Fair will be available all year long. Once 14-15-16 October 2021 comes, the physical exhibition with the coveted VIP Hosted Buyer Program will once again be the center of global B2B discussions.

The next Online Regional Buyer Meetings will host buyers and distributors from East Europe in May. Make sure to follow the future editions of the series of worldwide regional meetings and all other activities held by the BEAUTYISTANBUL exhibition. If you too want to achieve year-long success, become an exhibitor at BEAUTYISTANBUL now and benefit from all value-added services!

For more information, please contact: info@beauty-istanbul.com BEAUTYISTANBUL: October 14 – 15 – 16, 2021 in Istanbul

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VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach.

Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally.

A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director.

From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry.

Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in Russia & China.

The Sleeping Bear Has Awoken and It’s Taking On The Beauty World Russia & Central Asia emerging markets are the next big power players in the beauty industry Beauty has become one of the most wide-reaching and influential businesses in the world, yet one market that remains an enigma to many beauty brands is Russia & Central Asia. The intricacy and individuality often overshadow the dynamism and rewards that can be achieved there.

As a simple Wikipedia reminder, Central Asia is a region in Asia which stretches from the Caspian Sea in the west to China and Mongolia in the east, and from Afghanistan and Iran in the south to Russia in the north. The region consists of the former Soviet republics of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. It is also colloquially referred to as “the stans” as the countries generally considered to be within the region all have names ending with the Persian suffix “-stan”, meaning “land of”.

In a geographical sense Russia and Central Asia are dominant in how much space they take up, but when it comes to the beauty landscape they are not yet playing on the global field. But that looks set to change, and fast. As digitalisation continues to open the world up and the economies of these countries expand, brands should be turning their attention to capturing the imagination of the increasingly sophisticated, well-informed and engaged consumer that resides in Russia and the Stans. With a total population of 225M, Russia, Central Asia and Caucasus represent a vast potential of consumer group. As the consumer group continues to grow, so does the potential to establish brands and product awareness. Are these the Lands of Mystery or Fortune that every beauty brand should capitalise on for 2022?

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Russia Within the cosmetics industry, Russia has emerged as a powerhouse with enviable growth figures (even during 2020) and is on course to have a value of over $11 billion this year, making it the 5th largest market in Europe and 11th in the world.

These figures along with the Russian consumer’s passion for beauty and their love for imported brands (particularly French) make it an important market for those looking to grow globally.

Such vast growth indicates that not only is the cosmetics industry vital to the Russian consumer but it is also a key contributor to the national economy.

Many more cosmetic products are imported to Russia than they are exported, indeed 80% of all products sold on the Russian market are imported because, as Anna Galochkina, IL Brand Consultancy’s Russia & CIS Beauty Expert Analyst notes “big well-known luxury brands win over Russian women of all ages.”

This presents a unique opportunity for domestic cosmetics as consumers, and the government, attempt to readdress the balance deficit that has befallen the Russian cosmetic trade in recent years. There is also an opportunity to win over a younger audience with “the introduction of new exciting brands to the market”, says Galochkina. However, she admits that “this process is slow and might take another decade to make Russian women change their minds and give preference to younger names.”

The Russian consumers do not just love beauty, they live and breathe it. 40% of Russian women believe that make-up and cosmetics play a major role in being beautiful, a controversial opinion perhaps, given the current global trend for bare-faced beauty but it leaves a wide gap for cosmetic brands to cater to their needs. Indeed, a whopping 99% of Russian women buy beauty products regularly with hair care products and disposable face masks taking the top spot for most popular purchases. While lip and eye makeup products made up the majority of imported decorative cosmetics bringing in a combined total of 299million USD. But like the rest of the world the Russian consumer is not satisfied with what they’ve got right now, they too are looking forward.

So, what exactly are they looking for? It is important to remember that a third of Russia’s 144 million population live in the urban zones of St. Petersburg and Moscow with a large percentage of them falling into the 20-40 age bracket. What they buy therefore is heavily influenced by social media, pop culture and worldwide trends. This has resulted in an appetite for innovation; the modern Russian consumer is seeking out breakthrough technologies particularly in the skincare and makeup space where hybrids are hero’ed particularly if they offer protection from UV, pollution and free radicals, think

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about offering DD and EE creams to appeal to this demographic.

Russian women are still looking for skincare that protects skin in the cold weather, says Galochkina - anything hydrating is a must in this territory. However, there is a problem to be aware of here warns Galochkina; “the unfortunate thing here is that the word itself - hydration - has a very unpleasant connotation when the outside temperature is for instance minus 10 degrees centigrade. An additional deduction effort has to be taken (instores and otherwise) to fight with this misleading presumption.”

Russia’s leading cosmetic chain L’Etoile is testament to this exceptional growth. With a turnover which is more than twice the other players, the visionary L’Etoile sets the benchmark in luxury beauty retail. With more than a thousand stores, the number one beauty website in Russia (ranks 10 in the world), 16 million monthly visitors on the web and app along with a database of 40 million this remarkable business has been a key driver in changing the beauty landscape for the better. Despite the pandemic, it experienced year-on-year growth and it continues to innovate the marketplace with their recently launched 3.0 stores designed to be atmospheric, friendly and instagrammable spaces filled with exclusive brands, the best beauty experiences and exceptionally well-trained advisors. Every detail is centred on their customer.

Product selections are also widening with the established import brands being challenged by a revival in domestic cosmetics while innovation from all around the world is proving popular and there is an increasing desire for natural, organic and cruelty free that is being fueled by the younger generations and companies such as L’Etoile who are very committed to sustainability.

Russian women can spend up to 30% of their salary on beauty, they are a highly informed and engaged consumer who enjoy trying something new. It is in the DNA of Russian women to take care of their skin and invest in beauty, but one of the key differences to many other markets is their age profile which is much younger. From the age of 55 there is much less emphasis on cosmetics and make-up, a group which is normally a strong purchaser of anti-aging products but in Russia women in their 30s include this category in their regimes. You also find around 35% of men are regulars to the grooming departments.

Skinimalism was a major prediction in Pinterests 2021 trends report and the idea of stripping back both skincare and makeup routines in favour of a more minimalist approach seems to have reached Russian shores too. Russian consumers are increasingly turning to dermocosmetics, harnessing the power of multitasking products, and committing to a more sustainable beauty routine.

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To succeed in Russia, the first step is to understand that the methodologies you use elsewhere will need to be re-worked and tailored not just to specific logistical and operational needs but to the unique character of the Russian consumer and the distribution channels.

“In order for brands to penetrate Russia the use of a local partner is essential” insists Anna Galochkina (ILBC Russia Export Analyst). “The distributor represents the brand on the spot, participates in the certification and import of product, ensures marketing and distribution throughout the country via its own network or through sub-distributors. In short, if you want to make an impact in the Russian market on-theground supply chain and distribution channels are essential.”

This is a market that is impacted by global influences but driven by distinctive consumer preferences. A fact that has been clearly recognised by the beauty retail sector, which is one of the most customer-centric in the world. Whether instore, online or via other channels, every element of strategy and product selection is defined and refined by constant communication and monitoring feedback. One impressive adopter of this approach is the multi-award-winning Shopping Live Russia which has gone from strength-to-strength since launching in 2010. With a reach of over 36 million households, its mission is to turn over the traditional ideas of TV Shopping in Russia via the use of modern technologies, an advanced quality of service and a hand-picked selection of products including many European brands. Beauty and wellness represent the 3rd largest share of their sales, a position created by an unwavering emphasis on quality, discovery, entertainment, and engagement with their loyal customer.

Partnering with Shopping Live Russia can reap impressive rewards, it takes time to get the foundation right but when you do sell-out sessions are the norm.

As Russia is now moving onto its next more established phase, we are seeing the emergence of the ex-Soviet Union republics of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan. Their real potential is in the future and is linked to the vast potential of natural resources including crude oil and natural gas which is found in all these countries.

In order to become an early adopter of these growing markets, brands and companies first need to be aware of the different distribution channels in each country. Next, an understanding of what the consumer in each of these countries is looking for; exploring what makes them tick will enable brands to reap the awards. And finally, a new logistical approach is necessary.

To take full advantage of the inevitable growth of these Stans markets, it is essential to establish a solid base for operations and a strong supply chain that can be used to introduce the product to the market with strong (country by country) sales and marketing. On crucial thing to note when considering distribution channels in these regions is that online shopping is still a long way behind in-store sales, even in Russia online

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sales only make up 10% of sales. Although covid-19 has seen an increase in consumers adopting digital shopping, currently if a brand wants to make an impact in these countries a physical presence is required. Let’s explore the country-by-country consumer as well as the distribution opportunity.

Azerbaijan “On the cusp of Europe and Asia, this safe and scenic oil-rich nation on the Caspian Sea is rapidly emerging as a tourism player. With a hospitable culture, it offers something for everyone, from luxurious modern city breaks to historic journeys along the ancient Silk Road, and a burgeoning eco-and wellness tourism” explains Mintel’s Senior Tourism Analyst Jessica Kelly.

Indeed, Azerbaijan is a hot ticket - or at least it was pre-covid - tourist destination for Western Europeans and with over 2million expats plus a young population hungry for international brands and treatments Azerbaijan is a growing beauty playground for global cosmetic brands.

Over the past two decades Azerbaijan has redefined itself from a struggling newly independent state to a rapidly developing major regional energy player. The country has made considerable progress in terms of tourism development in recent years, with the rapid development of hotels and spas leading to a prime opportunity for brands to tap into the country’s new international audience. Currently Azerbaijan is home to over 180 international brands and in 2019 the value of imported goods to Azerbaijan was set at around 12 billion USD. Perfume brands, skincare and makeup are mainly purchased at luxury cosmetic stores like IDEAL or SABINA perfumeries.

Personal care tends to be sold in pharmacies or independent retailers and supermarkets.

Consumer shopping habits in Azerbaijan have shifted over the last few years as the retail network has grown to support a growing interest in beauty and personal care. What’s interesting here is that consumers usually tend to go to a spa for a whole day to be looked after from head to toe. All beauty services including manicure, pedicure, hair, Botox injection, slimming

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program, LPG, massage, are provided in such places. There are around 400 Spa & beauty Clinics of this kind around the country.

Equally you can find hair specialist retailers which count for up to 3600 Hair Salons.vTraining and education for beauty therapists is very much sought after. Over 18433 specialists are registered as medical practitioners and 2000 are practicing pharmacists.

Customer service is fantastic quality, and Azerbaijanis are famous for their great hospitality in store.

Kazakhstan With a land area equal to that of Western Europe and one of the fastest growing economies in Central Asia, Kazakhstan should certainly be on every brand’s hit list if they want to be an early adopter in an emerging market. Indeed, the cosmetics market in Kazakhstan increased by 68% in 2019 and once the Covid-19 slump is over, the country is set to return to pre-covid levels of growth.

There are two key trends to be aware of for brands seeking to enter the Kazakhstan market: colour cosmetics and the health and wellness trend. Sales in nearly all areas of colour cosmetics recorded significant growth in 2019, this reflects the rise of women in Kazakhstan wearing, and experimenting with, makeup. While lipstick and foundation enjoyed buoyed sales, it was eyebrow makeup which saw the most astronomical uptake in consumers. Embracing the global health and wellness trend, consumers in Kazakhstan shopped for products that would make them feel healthier and happier. These included products that prevented skin, hair and body damage as well as products

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with therapeutic benefits that also promoted better skin, hair and body health.

Indeed, similar to the Russian market, consumerism in Kazakhstan has seen a rise in demand for multifunctional products.

This appetite for hyperfunctionality matches the country’s rising standards in beauty and personal care and their preference for convenience. Although the interest in skincare is growing the category is still behind other global markets in terms of innovation: “in Russia and the Stand everyone is still overly excited about retinol therapy and various vitamin actives (including vitamin C), explains Galochkina, noting that for brands to penetrate the market it’s more important to have a strong and trusted global identity over trying to explore virgin trends in these countries.

A key take out for brands is that amongst the Kazakhstan consumer there is a growing demand for colour cosmetics that incorporate skincare benefits and sun protection properties.

It was only a decade ago that the very first perfume and cosmetic store opened in Kazakhstan and today there are over 100 beauty retail stores in 18 cities throughout Kazakhstan, providing the 18million strong population with a wide range of personal care products, perfumes, cosmetics, and accessories.

The beauty retail stores with the largest presence in Kazakhstan are French House (23 luxury stores), Mon Amie (29 retail stores) and Beautymania with 42 stores throughout 18 different cities in Kazakhstan. There is also a major pharmaceutical revolution sweeping through the country led by Europharma who have 200 Pharmacies in Kazakhstani cities.

Join us in the September 21 issue for more information on the rest of the CIS region Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Armenia and Georgia. *Statista https://www.statista.com/topics/5668/cosmetics-and-body-care-in-russia/

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk

EVENTS

China Beauty Expo successfully closed out the 3-day show on the evening of May 14th at the Shanghai New International Expo Center (Pudong)! This edition welcomed more than 3,200 beauty enterprises, spread throughout 230,000 square meters of exhibition space.

Thousands of new products, trending goods and latest technologies were showcased to beauty professionals who came to share, learn, and collaborate.

More than 50 concurrent activities were held with jam packed audiences who did not want to miss the opportunity to acquire new knowledge.

The 3-day total reached 479,000 visits, a number that’s hard to fathom in such a challenging period.

China Beauty Expo Rejuvenates the Beauty Market

It is at this show that China Beauty Expo officially introduced the CBE virtual expo mini program on WeChat to the general masses. CBE virtual expo is a year-round online beauty platform hosting all of its current exhibitors with their products, so that communication and trading is possible throughout the year. At the end of the expo, the CBE virtual expo reached 458,000+ views just in 3 days, setting a great foundation as the platform acquires more exhibitors and gains further popularity.

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Raising the bar once again for beauty shows to come This year welcomed many famous brands who came in support of China Beauty Expo. Elixir, L’Oréal Paris, Albion, Shiseido, La Colline, Kose Cosmeport, Geoskincare, Isdin, Urara, Martiderm and many more took this great opportunity to showcase their latest products, covering skincare, masks, color cosmetics, fragrances, toiletries, personal care, makeup tools, etc. Supply chain vendors also came in abundance, such as Cosmax, Cosmecca, Easycare Group, Pang, Yalan, Cosmobeauty, and the list goes on. Coverage of the supply chain includes packaging, ingredients, machinery and OEM/ODM/OBM.

What’s Trending China Fashion – The phrase “People mountain, People Sea” is exactly what can be used to describe the scene inside the China Fashion Pavilion. Not only were people shoulder-to-shoulder, everyone was very enthusiastic. This year, whether it is products with deep roots in the Chinese history, brand design with Chinese aesthetics, booth layout with rich Chinese elements, all gained a large number of new fans.

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The PZH Cosmetics in Hall W1, with its Zen-inspired bamboo forest decorations, Chinese classical designs that complement each other, and the three new series of “Xianquan”, “Ganoderma lucidum”, and “Pearl”, rich in oriental charm, became one of the most popular booths at the expo.

Additionally, VITA LIXIR, a high-end oriental skin-care brand under UNIASIA Technology Group, also made its debut on the show.

Technology x Products – Technology driven products is way of the future and it is evident in the beauty industry. Pechoin, who has been focusing on herbal skin care research, brought together the world’s newest technologies under the new demands of “efficient skin care”, and explored the perfect fusion of “highefficiency technology + oriental talents”, and used “technological new herbs” to debut core products of its three main brands of Pechoin, Sansen and Flavor.

Shiseido on the other hand cooperated with Yaman, a leading brand of beauty devices, in launching a technological anti-aging brand – Effectim, a brand-new technological player of Shiseido Group in the anti-aging brand territory.

Emerging Brands – Newly established “Popping Zone” in Hall E7 were extremely eye-catching at the 26th China Beauty Expo, a new concept that’s exclusively adopted for emerging brands. CBE cooperated with Unilever’s headquarters to launch the world’s first external incubator Unilever Universe, a “New Eco-Digital Beauty Laboratory” which brings together emerging brands such as Devil & Detail and Spes to debut on the expo. Unicorn male brand dearBOYfriend, emerging personal care brand ROCKINGZOO, and MOJA, Le Jardin Retrouvé, HERYOO etc. were all thrilled to be able to show their products in this new hot zone. Makeup brand COMO and perfume brand ASSASSINA under the JALA Group, as well as GINGERFOM under the UNIASIA Group were all very impressed with the idea and results.

The JALA Group, which is based on technological innovation, not only demonstrated its brand matrix with high coverage and multiple categories at this CBE, but also shared the research results at the 7th International Cosmetic Technology Conference. In addition, Cosmax took the theme of “science and technology”, not only to create a huge exterior electronic screen with stunning visual effects, but also to bring in a series of innovative products and exclusive patented technologies.

Precise Skincare - At the 2021 Global Medical Aesthetic Dermatology Conference, themed on “Precision Engine· Efficiency Driven”, a team of authoritative doctors in the field of dermatology in China, led by Professor Liu Wei, a famous dermatologist

and PhD supervisor, and leaders in the skin beauty science industry, discussed the development and improvement to the accurate skincare section. FREDA Shenan pointed out for the first time that TriBioBoost technology can achieve accurate anti-aging which can further consolidate Shenan’s leading position in the precision skincare sector.

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In addition, during the exhibition, the biggest feature of the branded skins displayed by Chuanxi is the ability to DIY custom skin care, and the diversified product mix with strong suitability and significant effects to meet all-gender consumers with different skin care demands. Besides the traditional cosmetics brands, pharmaceutical companies such as Bayer launched its sensitive skincare brand Bellerain.

SEONGSE brought its special efficacy brand Centellian. SINOPHARM ZHIJUN, MAYINGLONG Pharmaceutical Group, Beijing Eastern Union Biopharmaceuticals Ltd., Renhe Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd, Nanjing Tongrentang all had something unique to demonstrate.

Sunscreen Demand - From the perspective of the sunscreen industry, in China’s 470 billion cosmetics & personal care market, sunscreen only accounts for 2%.

It can be predicted that sunscreen is the future highlight category of China’s skin care market. At this exhibition, ISDIN S.A launched their new product FotoUltra Spot Prevention Fusion, which is the only highpower sunscreen product on the market that uses peptides to prevent aging; Mistine launched their new sunscreen for sensitive skin uses pure physical sunscreen ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which are safer and gentler; Meifubao created a perfect sunscreen matrix to meet the sunscreen needs of consumers in different scenarios.

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Retail Summit - During the “China Cosmetics Retail Summit,” executive chairman of China Beauty Expo, Ying Sang pointed out that in the era of “traffic is king”, in order to achieve maximum profit, companies need to integrate online and offline resources.

Physical stores need to devote energy and find ways to convert online traffic into potential customers.

The key for the retail industry lies within its innovation to adapt to the new changes. L’Oréal emphasized the 5 important aspects that will empower the retail industry: people, product, setting, results, and content. While the CEO of Geoskincare, Xiaokun Liu shared the 4P theory on full clientele coverage: product, price, place, promotion.

Testing & Inspection – With the new regulations launched at the beginning of 2021, testing and inspection institutions will become friends with many in the beauty industry. The Testing & Inspection Zone in Hall N6 gathered a number of institutions to show the advanced inspection technology. NBC and BASF signed a strategic cooperation agreement during the exhibition, of which an important cooperation is on product testing. Bawei Biotechnology Corporation even brought its independent third-party testing agency – Youz Testing and setup its own pavilion within the pavilion. Youz Testing covers 1000+ testing including efficacy testing, anti-corrosion test, prohibited substance test, packaging material test, and has more than 3000 types of raw materials testing indicators.

Save the Date: China Beauty Expo 2022, May 12-14 The 27th China Beauty Expo will once again be held at the Shanghai New International Expo Center from May 12-14, 2022. The organizing committee is expecting to fulfill the entire venue with added outside tentage to satisfy the demand from our exhibitors as the result of this year’s expo.

Visitor numbers will surely be in the record books as China Beauty Expo continues to provide knowledge to the beauty community and assist in the development of the beauty industry.

REPORT

Eva Lagarde launches re-sources.co to help Beauty Brands Implement Sustainability into their brands’ portfolio help marketing, product development, R&D, and innovations directors take control back into their product development needs, in just 5-modules of online educational program about sustainability.

Through the platform, NPD professionals will connect and learn with hand-picked Experts, to find relevant sustainable solutions to gain insightful and implementable knowledge suitable to their brand and market.

re-sources.co is a new digital tool to help beauty brands become more sustainable.

It is launching now and comprises 5 online modules for a truly 360° sustainable approach to product development.

Targeted at marketing directors of beauty brands - final decision makers - to equip them for smarter and informed choices that will impact their business. Sustainability – making sure that business and brand’s activities don’t damage people and the environment for future generations – is no longer optional. Whether its packaging or employee diversity, ingredient sourcing or water usage, having answers to the questions that consumers – and increasingly investors - are now asking, is a must.

“But with so much conflicting, partial and often highly technical information out there, it can be overwhelming to know where to even start, let alone decide what sustainability strategy will deliver the competitive edge you and your brand needs,” says Eva Lagarde.

This is where re-sources.co is here to help.

Our interactive, learning platform cuts through the noise. We give Beauty

Professionals the most fundamental, focused, fact-checked information, insight and tools to help you make the right sustainability choices in a way that’s relevant to their brand, actionable, and easy to explain to your key stakeholders, consumers and c-suite. They will be able to justify their business decisions. Broken into five indepth modules - packaging, formulation, certification, marketing and retail – the resources.co programme offers engaging, accessible learning content, designed to suit busy beauty professionals’ available time and learning pace. Think hand-picked Expert interviews, downloadable reports, quizzes, live Q&A sessions and more besides, always kept bang up to update. re-sources.co will

So how does re-sources.co work?

The online platform offers a range of courses with interactive learning and includes the following subject matters (with an average of 10 sub-topic per module).

Module 1 - Sustainable packaging Module 2 - Sustainable formulation Module 3 - Sustainable certifications and labels Module 4 - Marketing of sustainability Module 5 – Sustainable retail of beauty Detailed presentation of re-sources.co, and detailed program of the modules are available to download on the website. www.re-sources.co The first module (packaging) will be available to the first cohort of professionals.

You can apply online for an early bird rate on www.re-sources.co

About the founder, Eva Lagarde Eva has worked in the beauty industry for over 15 years and worked on renowned publications and events including Cosmoprof (the leading B2B beauty event), and continued, MakeUp in shows and Premium Beauty News (leading B2B publication) where she was in charge of business development, marketing and events. Eva hosted annual events about innovation in beauty packaging, make-up, skincare and fragrance in Paris and is dedicated to opening up her network and knowledge help all beauty brands build a more sustainable future which led her to launch Re-source.co which means going back to the source of everything and giving back to the earth what she gave us, a sort of “retour aux sources” (in french).

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VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach.

Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally.

A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director.

From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry.

Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in Russia & China.

The truth about carbon neutral A beauty buzzword or a true green goal?

First there was ‘green’ beauty, then we had ‘clean’ beauty, next came ‘plastic free’ beauty and now, ‘carbon neutral’ is the latest trendy term being tossed around by brands trying to prove their environmentally friendly credentials. And who can blame them when the environmentally conscious beauty sector is predicted to have a global market value of £40billion by 2027, according to Statista. However the problem is it’s not just sales that are at stake here, the future of our planet is too. And sadly a clever marketing claim isn’t the answer to climate change so in an industry often branded as guilty of greenwashing, transparency is more important than ever. Environmental labelling and legislation is hard to understand and even harder to abide by but if the beauty industry is to make positive change that it needs to get to grips with its environmental impact. So, is carbon neutral just another green gimmick or is it a legitimate label to aspire to? Or, is offsetting emissions still not enough for an industry of carbon culprits to make a real difference to tackling climate change? Let’s find out…

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Carbon emissions across the globe have increased exponentially year on year and it is currently estimated that 36billion tonnes* of the stuff is emitted each year.

A harmful pollutant, carbon dioxide traps the sun’s radiation inside the earth’s atmosphere, causing it to heat up thus making it one of the key contributors to global warming. The result of the earth heating up will have a dramatic impact on our precious ecosystems and water resources which is likely to trigger mass movement of people, as many parts of the globe become uninhabitable.

Science lesson over but the homework for the beauty and personal care industry has only just begun. Across the globe governments, businesses and individuals are looking at ways to cut carbon emissions in an attempt to halt, or at least slow down climate change. This includes ambitious targets such as the EU’s climate plan which proposes to cut greenhouse gases by at least 55% by 2030 setting Europe on a responsible path to becoming climate neutral by 2050. If beauty and personal care brands are to avoid being hit with hefty fines for not meeting future sustainability regulations then they too need to adapt their business model in line with global targets.

According to the Carbon Trust, a carbon neutral footprint is one where the sum of greenhouse gas produced is offset by natural carbon sinks and or carbon credits. A carbon sink is anything that absorbs more carbon from the atmosphere than it releases, for example a forest, the ocean or soil And a carbon credit is basically a paid for permit that allows the company that holds it to emit a certain amount of carbon dioxide or greenhouse gases because the credit is put towards a certified climate action project which will reduce, remove or avoid greenhouse gas emissions, say carbon finance consultancy, South Pole. “Lots of people associate carbon credits with planting trees. However, there are lots of different types of projects which can remove or reduce carbon dioxide from the environment. The cost of the carbon credit is equal to the amount it costs to reduce or remove an equivalent amount (normally 1 tonne, per credit) of carbon from the environment – this means that not all projects are the same cost as different types of projects cost more or less to reduce or remove carbon dioxide” says Lisa Sexton, founder of carbon neutral skincare brand Bolt Beauty. This however is where things get a little dicey because effectively any company could become carbon neutral simply by purchasing the same amount of carbon offset credits as carbon it generates, which does not deal with the main issue that too much carbon is being produced.

For companies to make a real difference they should strive to reduce emissions, rather than just offset them.

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A recent global YouGov study revealed that 67% of consumers “would feel more positive about companies that can demonstrate that they are making efforts to reduce the carbon footprint of their products” and this consumer demand for carbon conscious companies coupled with government targets means that beauty and personal care brands have to address their carbon emissions fast, if they want to secure their future - and the future of the planet. Reduction in harm to the planet has become a basic consumer expectation and over the past few years all brands have had to shift to be more planet positive by overhauling their products to be closer to being 100% recyclable, reusable, plastic-free, plant-based and the rest to meet increasingly conscious consumer standards.

While the efforts to improve the environmental impact of ingredients and packaging have contributed to declines in carbon footprints and waste, brands need to take even more drastic measures and overhaul every step of the supply chain if they are to truly contribute positively to the climate crisis, and from a sales perspective - keep a competitive market edge. Indeed WGSN commented that “as a brand, becoming carbon-neutral has benefits beyond the climate impact. It’s said to increase revenue through market differentiation. Costs can be lowered thanks to reduced entry use, stakeholders become more engaged, and risks related to future regulations are mitigated”.

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Lisa Sexton. Of course, the sustainability of ingredients is yet another side of the ‘saving the planet’ coin and if brands are to be truly sustainable savvy they will need to ensure that any natural substances use are part of a regenerative scheme, but that’s another story!

@highrcollective

Reaching carbon neutral status won’t happen overnight, a total overhaul of the supply chain is required. Lorraine Dallmeier, biologist, environmentalist, and CEO of Formula Botanica recommends that brands begin by looking at their current carbon footprint and examining the entire lifecycle of a product; this includes the provenance of ingredients, manufacturing processes, what the packaging is made from and how a consumer eventually disposes of a product. A total audit of the supply chain is necessary before estimates of emissions can be made, let alone offset. BYBI is a natural skincare brand which published its 2020 carbon report detailing the results of their 20192020 carbon footprint; by reviewing their supply chain they could measure their true carbon footprint and set aggressive annual C02 reduction goals, with real life actions to ensure they met them. Indeed, they become a carbon neutral beauty brand at the end of 2020 and now have new targets in place to become carbon negative by 2025.

Bolt Beauty, a seaweed based skincare brand, is another example of a brand examining its carbon footprint in order to offset its emissions correctly; “to ensure we are a carbon neutral brand, we are meticulous in measuring our emissions across our business. While we strive to reduce emissions wherever we can, it is impossible to reduce these to zero. Even lighting in the office has a carbon impact. Therefore, detailed measurements are essential to understand our potential impact on the planet. Once we have calculated our carbon footprint, we purchase the equivalent in Gold Standard Carbon Credits” says founder,

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Start ups are taking the lead when it comes to achieving carbon neutral status, either because they have been creating products with a reduction mindset from the get go or they are able to introduce carbon-neutral processes relatively quickly and easily into their supply chain. The conglomerates who are the real carbon culprits are still having to set long term green goals which they are publicly promising to meet. Cosmetics giant L’Oréal has pledged to reduce its entire greenhouse gas emissions by 50% in ten years and to have all its sites carbon neutral by 2025, Jean-Paul Agon, Chairman and CEO of L’Oréal, said: “L’Oréal’s sustainable revolution is entering a new era. The challenges the planet is facing are unprecedented, and it is essential to accelerate our efforts to preserve a safe operating space for humanity. Beauty and personal care leader Unilever have also joined the fight against carbon committing to net-zero emissions from all their products by 2039. Recognising that transparency is key if carbon cutting promises are to believed a Unilever spokesperson commented that “to do this, we will set up a system for our suppliers to declare, on each invoice, the carbon footprint of the goods and services provided; and we will create partnerships with other businesses and organisations to standardise data collection, sharing and communication.”.

While brands big and small across the beauty and personal care sector are indeed making broad efforts to address carbon emissions, the trouble, as always with eco-claims, is proving that they are substantiated. @bolt.beauty

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@bybibeauty

Because carbon emissions can arise from all parts of the supply chain, from the energy sources used for manufacturing, to the farming of the ingredients, to the transportation methods, to the final packaging, there is scope for interpretation when it comes to companies measuring their own emissions. Molly Hart, founder of carbon neutral lipstick brand HIGHR recognises the difficulty in ensuring all parts of the supply chain are carbon compliant, saying that even if as a brand you’re using renewable energy for your formulation process, if the partners in your supply chain aren’t “you need to then offset the emissions they generate while working on your business to claim to be genuinely carbon neutral”.

In the UK for example, although it is mandatory for large businesses to report their energy and carbon emissions on a yearly basis, there is currently no legislation for carbon footprint measurement or labelling in the UK, says the Carbon Trust. So, if a brand wants to honestly declare themselves as carbon neutral, third party certification is essential. Brands looking for a trusted carbon emissions assessor can look to The Carbon Trust, which uses PAS 2060, an internationally recognised specification for carbon neutrality or the Gold Standard Certification from the United Nations. A certified label means that a product or band is able to genuinely communicate its sustainability credentials say the Carbon Trust.

So, if a brand wants to achieve certified carbon neutrality what does it have to do? Well, the answer is, a lot. “You can start to offset your emissions by purchasing carbon credits certified by The Gold Standard” say BYBI founders Elsie and Dominika. However, this may not be enough to ensure trusted certification, at the Carbon Trust ‘products using offsetting as a means of compensation, a commitment to year on year emissions reduction evidenced in a plan demonstrating how the reduction commitments will be met are also necessary to becoming certified.’. These

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reduction commitments could include identifying “key areas of your supply chain and business operations that are carbon culprits and making changes to these areas to see a significant reduction in carbon output for the year,” suggest Elsie and Dominika. These changes could include working with manufacturers that run off green energy, reducing air freight by switching to sea transportation instead, ensuring that everyone in the business from distributors through to your staff use electric vehicles or consider setting up local fulfilment in different markets.

To be truly carbon neutral requires an immense amount of due diligence and ongoing commitment if a brand is to become certified. But the benefits of reaching carbon neutrality cannot be denied, the Carbon Trust note that reaching carbon neutrality demonstrates a commitment to decarbonisation, proves that as a brand you have true green credentials, helps to differentiate you as an environmentally responsible brand and allows you to contribute to global decarbonisation efforts through the support of environmental projects, thus aligning your business to the UN Sustainable Development goal of reaching net-zero by 2050.

This brings us on to the next, and more pressing, issue in the fight against carbon. Is aiming for carbon neutrality enough to truly tackle climate change? Well, in short no. For the beauty industry to truly engage with environmental activism it will need to be far more aggressive with its targets than carbon neutrality allows.

Brands should “seek to be carbon negative” say Elsie & Dominika, “meaning as a company you absorb more carbon from the atmosphere than you generate - input processes within your supply chain that are effective at removing enough carbon to begin to balance out the rest of your emissions - this is called carbon sequestering”.

However, Lisa Sexton notes that “practically speaking, and within the limits of today’s technology and lifestyles, this is pretty much impossible to achieve. It’s important that we reduce our carbon footprint as much as we can – for example, by using solar powered energy, minimising unnecessary travel, and buying locally sourced produce.

However, it is practically impossible to reduce it to nothing.” One thing is for certain though, the beauty industry cannot afford to be neutral when it comes to climate change. The planet needs the support of the beauty industry and it is clear that those that embrace the challenge early will reap the benefits.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk

Wherever the beauty industry is EXPORT MAGAZINE is there too bringing the beauty industry on all 5 continents 4on your desk 4at major international exhibitions 4by visiting our site www.exportmagazine.net 4circulated in 121 countries 4distributed at 40 international exhibitions

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Via dei Pestagalli, 21 I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 fax +39-02/5061160 L’Erbolario s.p.a.

V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 fax +39/0371-491411 www.erbolario.com Cosval s.p.a.

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Via della Molina, 39 I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 fax 39-055/8739768 Nouba s.r.l.

I-24061 Albano S. Alessandro (BG) Via Santa Barbara, 6 tel. +39/035-581996 fax +39/035-4521099 www.nouba.it - info@nouba.it Paglieri s.p.a.

S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr www.payot.com Micy’s Company s.p.a.

Via De Gasperi, 22 I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 fax +39-039/89205859 Rancé & C. s.r.l.

Via Lombardini, 10 I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 fax +39-02/89401058 Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l.

I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it info@officinaprofumeriasarda Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a.

Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 fax +39-055/3360734 Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l.

Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it

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