jStyle Vol.12

Special Edition 2013/14

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Colourful Experiences

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Contents

T

he jStyle Editorial Team would like to offer its heartfelt thanks to the people and organisations who have offered support and encouragement during the production of this publication. We are very excited to see this project come to fruition.

In this special issue, we have carefully selected jStyle articles which demonstrate the diversity of culture, experience and landscape awaiting visitors to Japan.

The powder snow of Japan is internationally renowned, but how many people know about its subtropical jungles and exquisite coral reefs? For cycling enthusiasts, Japan boasts more than 70km of coastal cycling courses, while those who prefer to proceed at a more leisurely pace can stroll along mountain paths in regions traditionally thought to be home to the gods.

Each region in Japan has distinctive cuisine, which draws on local and seasonal produce and is enhanced by Japanese people's tremendous sense of hospitality and generosity of spirit. We encourage you to visit and experience this for yourself.

Once again, we would like to thank all the people involved in this issue of jStyle, from the English language writers and translators to our corporate sponsors and the JNTO (Japan National Tourism Organization).

The jStyle Editorial Team

Japan Highlights Discovering Japan

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World Heritage

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History

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Snow Adventure

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Nature

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Cool Japan

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Cuisine and Sake

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Accommodation

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jStyle Travel Features The Captivating Ski Resorts of Japan

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Nozawa Onsen

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Shiga Kogen

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Yudanaka, Shibu Onsen

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Hakuba

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Myoko Kogen

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Niseko

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Powder Belt

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Across the Breezy Seto Inland Sea on Bicycle

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Shimanami Kaido

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Shikoku

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Paradise Amongst the Waves - Okinawa

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Diving in Okinawa

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World Heritage Sites

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Amusement Parks with a Local Touch

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Chanpuru: Okinawa’s Distinctive Culture

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Editorial

Design

Nichigo Press Publications

Director

Art director & designer

Publisher

Tadasu Harada

Naoto Furuki

Kenji Sakai

Distination: Okinawa

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Editor

Designer

General manager

A zusa Mori

Junko Wakimura

A Pilgrimage Into the Past - Kii Peninsula

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Tadasu Harada

K a zuya Baba

Administration manager

Takako K ajiya

Yoshiko Arakawa

Advertising

Translators & writers

Anne Phillips Patrick Budmar

Sydney branch manager

Cecilia macaul ay

K a zuya Baba

Accounting manager

ROSE SHEN

Traditional Culture

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Okinawa’s Remote Islands

44

Kumano Kodo

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Wakayama

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Nara

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Mie

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Travel Tips

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jStyle Living

Andrew Dahms

Gold Coast branch manager

Christopher Hall

Aiko Yamashita

Food

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Bonson Lam

Sydney sales manager

Sake

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Trivia

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Event Calendar

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A Message from Executive Director of Japan National Tourism Organization

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Jaret Parker

Masanori Tsuchiya

Editorial

Mike de Kleer

Account executives

npeditor@nichigo.com.au

Tom Goodwin

Hiroyuki Matsuda

Design

Adam Feldman

Hideki Haijima

npart1@nichigo.com.au

Sam Kerr

Yasunori Eguchi

Advertising

Yuko Iwase

Eddie Wang

npsales@nichigo.com.au

Cover Image: Masaaki Kato jStyle is published by

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Disclaimer While we take every care in ensuring that material published in jStyle is accurate, data and information may change after the date of publication, 03 May 2013. Nichigo Press cannot take responsibility for the content of advertisements and contributions from external persons or entities. No material may be reproduced in part or in whole without written consent from the copyright holders. Nichigo Press requires as part of its terms and conditions of contract that the content of advertisements do not infringe the rights of any third party and do not breach any provision of the Trade Practices Act 1974 (Cth) or the Fair Trading Act 1987 (NSW) or similar legislation enacted in other states of Australia (or other jurisdictions). Nichigo Press cannot be held responsible for advertisements that breach these conditions.

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Mt. Fuji at dawn, the highest mountain in Japan

©Fujiyoshida City ©JNTO

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Discover and create your own story of Japan What comes to mind when you think of Japan: Sushi? Electronics? Ninja? Anime? Bullet trains? Japan is all these and more to people around the world, with many layers to the country waiting to be peeled away. Once an isolated island, now a mix of traditional, cutting-edge and hip, Japan has kept its soul and become a complex and beautiful place. Now that it’s recovering from the earthquake and the yen is cheaper, Japan is a flight away with only two hours time difference, waiting for you to explore it and create your own story.

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Jewels of Japan's history and nature

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World Heritage In Japan there are 16 UNESCO World Heritage sites, reflecting their Zen Buddhist heritage and feudal past. These are best visited with a winter backdrop of snowy vistas, in the Autumn amid forests of red and orange leaves, or in the Spring when the Cherry Blossoms delight the eyes.

1. Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage routes, Wakayama: Consists of six traditional pilgrimage trails along moss covered stone steps through Cypress forests leading to temples in Nara, the Three Grand Shrines and the religious hub of Mount Koya.

2. Horyu-ji Buddhist Monuments, Nara: A five-storey pagoda that’s one of the oldest wooden structures in the world and a time-capsule of Buddhist art.

3. Ancient Nara: Six temples including “Todaiji”, with the world’s biggest

bronze statue of Buddha.

4. Kyoto: The ancient capital with the original Zen rock garden and the Golden and Silver Pavillions.

5. Himeji Castle, Hyogo. A spectacular feudal castle.

6. Itsukushima Shinto Shrine, Hiroshima: The famous red “Torii” gate in the sea in front of a sacred island.

7. Hiroshima Peace Park: A stark reminder of the destructive power of a nuclear weapon.

8. Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine, Shimane: Once produced a third of the world’s silver.

9. Shirakawa-go & Gokayama Historic houses, Gifu: Traditional multi-generational cold-weather houses.

10. Nikko Temples, Tochigi: Lavishly decorated shrines.

11. Hiraizumi Temples, Iwate: “Pure Land”

Buddhist temples and gardens from the eleventh century.

12. Sites in Ryukyu: Ruins blending styles from Japan, Korea and China in a once independent kingdom.

13. Shiretoko, Hokkaido: A north-west wilderness that’s a trekker’s paradise. See trout and salmon swarming upriver, ice floes in the winter, an active volcano and dramatic cliff waterfalls.

14. Shirakami-Sanchi, Aomori. A vast primeval forest with deep gorges and gushing rivers in summer.

15. Yakushima, Kagoshima. A mountainous island famous for having millennia-old cedar trees, and both coral and Alpine plants.

16. Ogasawara Islands. Remote Galapagoslike tropical islands reachable by a 25 hour ferry trip.

©Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau ©JNTO

Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Routes

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©Sue Ann Simon / ©JNTO

Kiyomizudera temple in Kyoto

The Great Buddha of Todaiji temple

©Richard Luan

Himeji Castle in Hyogo Prefecture

©JNTO

Tradition and reinvention

History Japan’s history has been a process of redefining itself by rebounding after catalytic events. First was a period of warring clans that was settled in 1600. Around then the majestic “White Heron” castle in Himeiji was built. It has survived earthquakes, bombings and aggressive urban growth to remain standing today, complete with defensive keeps, twisting roads and impressive thousand mat rooms. After this was Japan’s golden age when quintessentially Japanese art, thought and religion came into being, leading to temples, palaces, castles and other timeless relics dotting Japan. Each has fascinating tales to tell, such as a dream about a golden dragon near a river leading to a temple being named Tenryu (“dragon in the sky”).

The temple Kiyomizudera in Kyoto was built on a hillside over a waterfall that is

said to have wish-granting powers, as well as stones fortelling love.

The original capital of Nara and areas to the south became home to temples, monasteries and pilgrimage trails, with Horyuji (“temple of flourishing law”) being the oldest. The 14m tall statue of Buddha in Todaiji is the symbol of Nara, while a temple on Mount Hiei is known for the “marathon monks” who lead a life of enlightenment. Kyoto, the second capital, laid out in a grid like Beijing, once housed the imperial palace, shrines and gardens.

Nijo Palace, complete with creaking, ninja-proof “nightingale floors” and ornate murals can also be seen, as well as Ryoanji, a temple known for its ornate gardens and zen pond. The pond is formed from carefully raked pebbles around 15 islands, though only 14 are visible if enlightenment

has not been granted.

A contrast to Japan’s heartland are the islands of Okinawa to the south, a once independent country with a culture that blends Japanese, Korean and Chinese influences. It’s also known as the birthplace of Japanese martial arts.

The idyll of this age and Japan’s isolation was broken in the 19th century, when the attention turned to rapid modernisation.

Following wartime devastation, Japan turned its attention to exports as a way to overcome its lack of natural resources, in the process creating an economic miracle that produced the world’s second largest economy. This astronomical growth eventually stalled with the crash of the real estate bubble in 1991, as well as the triple disaster of March 11, 2011, forcing Japan to once again redefine itself.

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A wonderland of skiing and snowboarding Powder snow in Nagano

Snow Adventure Every year frigid winds from Siberia come across the sea and hit Japan’s mountains, dumping 14 metres of snow on the 600 resorts across the nation. This makes for a paradise of many choices for skiers and snowboarders. Japan’s ski resorts are becoming more and more popular as the sheer amount of snowfalls and the quality of powder snow prized by skiers are being discovered. European and Canadian skiers are looking for the perfect slope and a variety of courses through which to challenge their skills and experience new thrills.

Most resorts are within a 90 minute flight or bullet train trip from Tokyo. The closest is in Niigata, on the north-west coast.

Niseko in Hokkaido used to be the most

popular, but others in central areas of Hokkaido, along with Appi and Zao in Tohoku and in the Japanese Alps of Nagano, are being discovered. This extends to resorts in Nozawa, Hakuba and Shiga Kogen (the largest ski area) in the central west. Some are huge: “Happo One” in Nagano has 135 lifts, 144 courses and an unbelievably long 8km long slope. A charming aside to ski resorts are volcanic hot springs (“Onsen”) that are heavenly for sore bodies after a day on the slopes and a terrific way to relax. There are other local attractions such as snow monkeys in Nagano and the Ice Festival in Sapporo, as well as the local cuisine and souvenirs.

Getting to these resorts is quick and effi-

cient; there are shuttle buses available to most resorts, and some (for example GALA) even have their own bullet train stations. There are also English-speaking guides, courses, signs and ski instructors available at the bigger and popular resorts, and depending on the location, there are a variety of apresz-ski venues to try. Kani-nabe (crab hot pot) is simply divine on a cold night, as is sake or shochu to warm you up. Costs for ski lifts and gear rental are cheaper than you’d expect: some only charge $30 a day and other prices are around half of those in Australia. With the strong dollar it’s great value for money, as well as an unforgettable experience.

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Nature Spanning from tropical south to the arctic north, Japan has an incredible variety of nature and national parks: snowy panoramas, mountain vistas, tropical lagoons, dramatic coastlines, primeval forests and even sand dunes and active volcanoes.

Some of the most impressive are the giant whirlpools in Naruto straits or the world heritage island of Yakushima with its cryptomeria forests. Most famous are the Sakura Cherry blossoms, and of course Mt. Fuji, which takes about eight hours to climb.

There is a huge variety of ways to get in touch with nature in Japan. Forest walking, hiking and trekking are popular: either through pristine natural parks or

between temples. In Shikoku there are 88 temples forming a loop around the island and the Kumano Kodo is a way to combine nature and history. Yakushima has a surrealistic landscape of verdant forest that inspired a famous anime film called Princess Mononoke. Hiking through this or up volcanic black earth in Mount Rishiri in Hokkaido to see a steaming volcano crater is an experience one can simply walk into! Cycling is also becoming popular: the Shimanami cycling route is a 70km route that crosses a bridge between the islands of Honshu and Shikoku. White-knuckle rafting can also be done in the summer months as snow melts and creates fastflowing rivers in Furano, Hokkaido, and in

Tokushima.

Japan’s local specialties and food varies by local landscapes, weather and ingredients, which makes for interesting experiences. In the north, for example, rice isn’t grown as much as wheat, so learning how to make soba and udon (varieties of noodles) from the locals or joining a Wanko-soba contest (how many bowls can you eat?) is an experience. In Okayama the Aizo-me indigo blue dye lasts longer than the clothes they colour and in Okinawa there is a kind of doll called Shisa. If you’re in Morioka, there’s a beautiful kind of black ironware called Nambu that’s made from local materials.

An Incredible variety of vistas

Hiking in Yakushima

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1. Traditional Japanese drum performance at Ise Shrine. 2. Intricate decoration at Sensoji temple. 3. A Geisha. 4. Visitors fanning smoke onto themselves from burning incense. 5. Singing karaoke. 6.

Maneki-neko (beckoning cat statue) at Gotokuji temple in Tokyo. 7. Kyo-Yuzen silk being made. 8.

A dancer at Yokagura Festival in Miyazaki. 9. The world’s biggest tower, Tokyo Skytree. 10. Akihabara.

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The side of Japan that makes you think 8

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Cool Japan The sheer diversity of manga (comics), anime (animation), video games, electronic gadgetry and the fashion, music and art subcultures that can be found in Japan reflects a creative, unrestrained and constantly changing youth culture. It goes against the usual risk-averse and collective nature of the Japanese, as well as from the understated asymmetrical simplicity of ancient wabi-sabi (quiet beauty) culture.

Tokyo provides a sampling of new and radical fashion before it goes mainstream, as does the electronics district of Akihabara. It’s also where you can find manga figurines, comics and other merchandise.

Traditional Japanese culture is being rediscovered for its sophisticated simplicity and artisans’ skill that are best appreciated

with an open mind for subtlety. They are also becoming more accessible, with the Kabuki theatre in Higashi-Ginza being rebuilt, where traditional plays can be seen with English commentary and guides.

The Spring Geiko Dance Performance (“Miyako Odori”) and the Gion corner in Kyoto are once in a lifetime brushes with feminine perfection in dance and music.

For Japanese masculinity, Sumo is also a fascinating sport to watch in the cavernous Ryogoku Kokugikan in Tokyo for its hand-to-hand intensity, as are other martial arts such as Kyudo, which is archery infused with meditation. In Mie prefecture, there is a ninja museum complete with trapdoors and weapons. Learning to make paper or traditional sweets, or how to write your name in traditional calligraphy, makes for a unique souvenir in itself.

Smaller villages on the outskirts of large cities are home to local artisans where you can find traditional pottery, kimono or jewellery.

As a sophisticated post-industrial society, Japan has no equal in the design department, having brought PlayStation, Mario, and ASIMO to life. Products are showcased at the Tokyo Game Show or Miraikan museum of innovation. Art hubs like 21_21 Design Sight and the Art Triangle Roppongi are like glimpses into the future, as is the Japan Fashion Week. Mori Tower in the Roppongi Hills complex is an architectural marvel, as is the recently completed Tokyo Skytree. Then there is the artifical island, Odaiba. For shopping, every designer brand of note can be found in the ritzy boutiques of Ginza to get that perfect look.

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©JNTO

A traditional Japanese multi-course "Kaiseki" dinner

Delighting all the senses

Cuisine and Sake

Fugu Sashimi ©Hamamatsu Visitors and Convention Bureau / ©JNTO

helpful staff are always on hand to cook the house special. Besides Ramen, there are many types of soba, which is thicker with variations made from rice. Every area has famous specialties: Hokkaido is famous for king crabs and a salmon stew called Ishikari-nabe. Nagoya is renowned for Miso Katsu, fried pork fillet with sweet miso sauce. There are also fast food outlets, but with a Japanese twist, such as mayonnaise on pizza. A Japanese kind of fast food is Gyudon, essentially beef on rice that is tastier than it sounds. There is also high cuisine and specialty food to suit the most demanding gourmet, whether it is high-end sushi restaurants or Wagyu premium beef. For thrill seekers, there is fugu, a poisonous blowfish that is expertly prepared by a certified chef.

Sake (called Nihonshu in Japanese), or Japanese rice wine, comes in a wide range of qualities and distillation methods: micro-distilleries, premium aged types and local styles. Niigata Prefecture is known for its premium sake made from pure alpine water from melted snow.

Another variation is Shochu, a kind of Japanese Vodka.

Skewered chicken and vegetables “Yakitori”

©JNTO

Japanese cuisine is famously light and healthy with very little sugar, salt, fat or oil.

It is based on a rice, fish or noodle staple served with mountain or sea vegetables.

It is made as much for taste and presentation as it is to fill you up, but even then Japanese people say “Hara hachi-bun”, which means they eat only 80% of what they can. Expect smaller servings, except if you’re trying Chanko-nabe (a hot pot), which is what sumo wrestlers eat to gain their bulk.

While sushi is the most recognisable Japanese food in Australia, it isn’t as celebrated in its native home. Instead, there are Ramen bars that serve noodles which are significantly better than the instant variety, and izakaya, which are reasonably priced corner restaurants with local vibes. Yakiniku (BBQ) is also popular with locals, as is other local styles such as Teppan-yaki. A battered mix cooked in Osaka on a hot plate is called Okonomiyaki, and Monjayaki, which is a Tokyo variation. Preparation of the battered mix is entirely up to the customer, meaning that the resulting pancake is only limited by one’s tastes and preferences, though

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A traditional delicacy served at a ryokan

Taking a stroll around the hot spring town of Tawarayama in Yamaguchi Prefecture

Accommodation Accommodation in Japan runs the whole gamut, from luxury five-star hotels to traditional inns at the peak of Japanese lifestyle and hospitality, to places that are more affordable to stay at. The uniqueness of accommodation in Japan embodies the omotenashi spirit, a personalised and thoughtful quality of service seen even in small inns in Japan.

Besides the usual chain hotels, there are cheaper “business hotels” that have the basics, such as WiFi. At the other end of the scale are extravagant places like the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Tokyo, a 38 storey embodiment of luxury with a spectacular night view and extensive spa facilities. The Conrad Hotel near Ginza is another example of luxurious living.

For longer stays, weekly apartments, share houses and even complete houses

are also available for travelers on a budget. Another cheap option is “capsule hotels,” though they are not for the faint hearted and best appreciated for a night or two at most. Beds in stacked capsules along a wall provide only enough space to lie down, while bathroom facilities consist of a shared bath known as a sento.

In the mountains near ski resorts are the usual hotels, as well as lodges that feature Alpine European design, complete with fireplaces and feather beds. Sometimes there may even be an onsen that can be used both as a bath and for relaxation.

A truly unforgettable once-in-a-lifetime experience of traditional cuisine and hospitality is a ryokan. A room typically consists of tatami mat flooring perfectly suited for sitting while wearing a yukata following a dip in the adjoining onsen. A

kimono-clad attendant serves a a kaiseiki course consisting of seafood and local dishes. The food is served in separate dishes, artistically arranged to balance their tastes, textures, appearance and colours.

Another option is a minshuku (B&B), consisting of a reasonably-priced room in a private house, typically located near resorts and sightseeing spots, with family style meals.

If you’re exploring temples and pilgrimage routes, then a fitting option is shukubo, or temple lodgings. These come with vegetarian meals and a chance to participate in morning chants and prayers. Buddhist mountain retreats on Mount Koya in Wakayama offer an especially unique opportunity to refresh the soul due to the holy nature of the location.

©JNTO

Places to stay and experience the culture

©Japan Ryokan Association / ©JNTO

©Japan Ryokan Association / ©JNTO

An outdoor hot spring in Yamanashi prefecture

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HOKKAIDO NISEKO P31 POWDER BELT P32

NAGANO and NIIGATA NOZAWA ONSEN P18 SHIGA KOGEN P20 YUDANAKA, SHIBU ONSEN P23 HAKUBA P26 MYOKO KOGEN P29 TOKYO KYOTO OSAKA HIROSHIMA

KII PENINSULA P46

SHIMANAMI KAIDO and SHIKOKU P34

OKINAWA P38

Travel From renowned national icons to unique hidden treasures, jStyle will take you on a journey through an array of destinations. Take a look at the best sights and entertainment options in each of Japan’s distinctive locations. Whether you want to enjoy or escape the crowds, Japan Text: jStyle team has something for you.

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jStyle Special Feature

The world's best powder snow awaits on the ski fields of Japan!

In recent years, Japan’s ski resorts have undergone an almost unparalleled boost in popularity amongst overseas skiers. In this feature, we take a look at what makes them so special.

In the 1980s and 1990s, Japan saw an unprecedented boom in skiing. With the skiing population seemingly set to reach 20 million, the number of ski fields also continued to grow, climbing to more than 700, despite Japan’s small size. With 70% of Japan’s north covered in mountains, it’s no surprise that the region has become renowned for its snow.

However, when the bubble economy burst in the early 90’s, this new craze soon came to end.

The number of ski fields began to drop, with less popular resorts disappearing

domestic skiing enthusiasts. However, for the last decade the ski resorts of Japan have seen a steady influx in overseas skiers, the vast majority of which are Aussies.

In the past, the topic of ski resorts would conjurer up images of the US or Whistler in Canada, though over time people have come to see Japan as an attractive alternative. This was aided by the fact that Japan was closer to Australia than North America.

The first area in Hokkaido Prefecture for which Aussie skiers showed a preference was Niseko. Towns about its foothills

completely. Yet in spite of this decline, some 500 ski fields in Japan today are still being enjoyed by countless skiing enthusiasts.

Ironically, it was just as the skiing boom was settling down that overseas skiers and snowboarders began to show interest.

As previously mentioned, Japan is known as one of the few countries in the world which experiences a large amount of snowfall.

The snow itself is also highly regarded for its quality, but for many years the fields were enjoyed almost exclusively by

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brimmed with Aussies, and an area akin to an ‘Australia town’ was born. The growing popularity and recognition of Niseko meant that the Aussie invasion had well and truly arrived.

As Niseko became a mecca for Aussie skiers, some people have begun to search for fresher territory. The place that is currently experiencing growth and recognition among Aussie skiers is Nagano.

Situated in the heart of Japan’s mainland, Nagano is known as one of the best areas for skiing, rivaled only by Hokkaido.

If the name Nagano sounds familiar, it is

because the town was host to the 1998 Winter Olympics. Nearly 80 ski fields can be found at Nagano, three of which are regarded as giant ski areas - Nozawa Hot Springs, Shiga Kogen, and Hakuba - and equalled only by Myoko Kogen in neighboring Niigata Prefecture. It is these four areas that are regarded as the most enjoyable for skiing. In this feature, we hear from Aussie journalist and Japan afficionado, Cecilia Macaula, who travelled to each of these sites in person to see what makes them tick.

Besides Niseko, a collection of neighbor-

ing towns in central Hokkaido, dubbed the Powder Belt, is starting to gain in popularity. The area’s inland climate and powder snow lighter than that of even Niseko is generating interest. In this feature, we present a special contribution from Masaaki Kato, founder of the Powder Belt movement, veteran editor-in-chief of the most famous ski magazine in Japan and resident of the area.

I hope you will enjoy this glimpse of what awaits in the increasingly popular skiing fields of Japan. (jStyle team)

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NAGANO-NIIGATA Snow Resort Alliance URL：http://www.snowlove.net/japan/ 7975NAGA

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Romantic, Adventurous or Traditional?

Five snow towns of Nagano.

Text: Cecilia Macaulay Photo: Kazuya Baba Co-operation: Ogasaka Ski, Goldwin, Ski Journal

In the centre of the main island, Japan’s four greatest mountain ranges rose up and joined forces, creating the outline of Nagano prefecture. The inland geography blessed Nagano with record-breaking amounts of snow and sunny days, plus a distance to Tokyo that makes day-tripping almost possible. Almost, but not quite, as Nagano is not the kind of place to lets you leave that easily. Visitors to the ‘98 Winter Olympics found this out firsthand. The

Olympic Games put Nagano on the world stage, planting the idea that if you travel for world-class skiing, go the whole way and make the trip exotic. Choose Japan, and the basics of eating, bathing and sleeping might become highlights. There you can enjoy elaborately prepared dishes, hypnotic hot springs, and tatami-scented nights. Even when things don’t go so well - say, Japanese attempts at Western breakfasts - it’s done so earnestly it’s amusing.

Ogasaka and Goldwin gear I amused my instructor by turning up for a beginners lesson in racy Ogasaka skis, akin to a teenager in a Ferrari.

These skis are often seen in high-level international competitions, but are difficult to buy outside of Japan.

My high tech suit was by Goldwin and made in Japan.

Which town is for you?

The town of Myoko is like something from the past, but the vast resort of Shiga Kogen, with over 70 interconnected ski lifts, is situated in the highlands. The traditional towns of Yudanaka and ShibuOnsen contrast with romantic Hakuba, a faux-European town with a surprising amount of European visitors. The village of Nozawa-Onsen could be the star of its own movie, with its winding streets, festivals that thrill and convivial night life.

Cecilia Macaulay is an expert in user-friendly daily life design, based in Sydney and Tokyo. Blending design ideas from clever Aussie Permaculture and Japanese culture, she runs unique training courses to get people re-designing their surroundings and communication for force-free living.

Hand crafted Ogasaka skis

High tech ski wear with Goldwin

Cecilia Macaulay

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NOZAWA ONSEN

Nozawa Onsen Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 20 Number of runs: 20 Longest run: 10,000m Maximum elevation: 1650m Steepest slope: 39 degrees Terrain: Beginner 40%, Intermediate 30%, Advanced 30% Night skiing: Yes, until 20:00 Season: Mid November until early May Other: Park facilities include, kickers, rails, boxes and walls.

First class skiing in a quirky spa town The skiing is world-class, but the star of the show is the village, a hot spring town now 1000 years old. Traditional wooden buildings in subdued colours give a peaceful, timeless atmosphere.

Surprises are built into the multi-layered, winding architecture of the village. Is that really a Jetson’s style escalator taking us comfortably up to the snow slopes?

Are the polite village ladies really cooking cabbage in the ..um....gutter? ‘The Cauldron’, the hottest spring in the village, is so hot that only the townspeople dare use it.

Hot water is everywhere. There are little

hot water spots for boiling eggs and rest for stops where people can sit and soak their cold feet. I even saw a parking lot covered in a layer of steaming water.

The people who create the thoughtful buildings, the year-round festivals and events, even the eccentric snowmen, do it because this is their home and they want to enjoy it. There are no corporations running or shaping this town.

It’s a village tiny enough to walk though in 20 minutes, yet it has produced eight Olympic medalists. “What’s Nozawa’s secret?” I ask Mr. Akira, the owner of the

hotel I’m staying in.

“Nothing else to do here,” he teases.

It’s early and the only other guests at the hotel’s lounge is a group of eight Australians all typing away on their Apple computers. Mysterious.

It’s theatrically lit, with a bar like an altar and a garden window which provides a living backdrop. I ask who the designer was.

“Me!” says Akira. The food is Japanese modern. It’s excellent.

Our rooms however are nothing like downstairs. They must be 30 years out of date.

But I love this town already, so I just think

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Life on the slopes

Nozawa’s traditional fire festival, Dousojin Matsuri

Powder Skiing

Street hot spring font for cooking eggs

Traditional hotspring at the Sakaya, Nozawa’s finest

it’s funny. I forgive the baffling heater with its Japanese buttons and the awkward bathroom. I set up camp in a pile of blankets and move the furniture around.

Akira showed me a video of the Dousajin fire festival, a tradition of Nozawa which inspired the opening ceremony of the ‘98 Nagano Winter Olympics. A gang of local men perch on a towering wood and straw pyre, fighting off a fiery siege by the rest of the town, bare hands against flaming torches. They fight with everything they’ve got, knowing full well that this year, like every year, it’s all going to go up

One of Nozawa’s many owner-run bars

in flames.

About one fourth of the guests are international, and come evening, you find them mingling in the many small, ownerrun bars. My favourite was one with the graceful sign that read “Request from a shop. We can talk only in Japanese. Are you okay?” Inside, the dishes served to me included candied soy grasshoppers and sake infused whole grilled river fish.

Just don’t go breaking the rules and ski in those tempting trees without police permission, a survival kit, and a written plan. I had a chance to go for a snowmobile tour,

plowing through three meter high drifts of snow in this noisy army-like vehicle.

According to my crusty, backcountry guide on this tour, 30 people go off the track each year and need a search party.

Approximately half of them are ruleflouting Australians. Being Australian and speaking Japanese, I got scolded for it. So just stick to the slopes.

The high point of my trip was the impeccably crafted hot spring bath at the Sakaya. I was hypnotised, never wanting to leave.

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SHIGA KOGEN

Shiga Kogen Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 62 Number of runs: 84 Longest run: 4000m Maximum elevation: 2307m Steepest slope: 39 degrees Terrain: Beginner 46%, Intermediate 40%, Advanced 14% Night skiing: Yes, until 21:00 Season: Mid November until early May Other: Park facilities include kickers, rails, boxes, and waves.

Find your groove on the slopes The word “Kogen” in Japanese translates in “high lands”. With a peak of over 2,300 meters, the resorts of Shiga are celebrated for their fine dry snows, and on clear days the dazzling view to the next prefecture.

Shiga Kogen is the largest ski area in Japan, with an interlinked collection of 22 resorts and over 120 interconnected lifts and gondolas. Imagine zig-zagging across the mountains all day, gazing across the peaks you’ve just conquered. I didn’t have the chance to do so because I got dazzled by the vastness at the first peak, but maybe you will. Lucky I had a

capable instructor to coax me down or I’d be there still. I took to Ken right away. His English had that no-worries Californian accent, while his heavy-duty suit and lean face gave him a manga hero look. “You look like a fire-fighter,” I told him. “That’s because I am, as well as an instructor, snow shoveler, and other things.” Life is like that in the mountains.

We skied all the way down a slope which ended right on the doorstep of a small hotel. “Come in, boots and all,” a sign said, so that’s what we did, with lunch on our minds. It was a hotel that looked like

it had been in the family a long time, full of mother’s pot plants, framed embroidery, and children’s books on the 60‘s style tables. When little girls appeared and started tumbling over my instructor, that’s when I realised what some of Ken’s other jobs were. Namely, this was his family hotel.

I was scared to go out after lunch, but this is Shiga, with every kind of run to choose from. We drove to Okushiga, one of the more isolated areas. They found me an beginner’s heaven that was snowboarder-free, wide and flat, with no

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Find the right slope for your skills

Snowfields in the national park

distractingly magnificent view to ruin my focus. I didn’t have my Ken, but Mr. Sato who runs one of the large hotels, Villa Ichinose, volunteered to come down to be my companion. We worked out that if he was behind me, acting as an invisible guiding voice, I could forget about the outside world and relax. My body and brain started communicating again, and a gliding rhythm appeared.

I’m now convinced you can’t think your way to success. You just need to prepare the right surroundings, including great teachers, so it all just clicks.

My instructor and hero, Ken

With all the large Japanese group tours that come to Shiga, the focus is on the slopes, not the food or nightlife. Most visitors choose a meals-included package and do their eating and socialising with their companions, mainly due to the lack of local restaurants or a real town centre.

The town of Ichinose, where I stayed, could be seen as the de facto main town of Shiga, and the best place to find a meal.

With the help of Facebook, my friends gathered their old friends and local gogetters for a BYO nightlife. We spend a lively evening at the Okinawa-themed

pub, The Olympic at our hotel. As soon as the first dish appeared, a crispy chewy savory pancake, with unusual Okinawan beer, I knew the owner was passionate about the food he creates and that it would be delicious. The islands of Okinawa have a distinctly different culture and cuisine to the rest of Japan, so even for domestic visitors, this might be the most exotic food to be had in Shiga.

For Nagano’s 1998 Winter Olympics, Shiga hosted downhill ski and snowboard events. In part due to this, overseas visitors to the area have been increasing

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View from Mt. Yokote

every year. It’s usual for the staff to speak some English. Shiga Sugiyama ski school is a large, capable institution with international teachers who provide lessons in English and other languages, and anything else you might need to make life on the slopes brilliant.

With its high altitude, the Shiga Kogen ski season runs from early December to May. The ski area is part of a Japanese national park, which in the summertime becomes a place for hikers to enjoy the lakes, forests and wildlife unlike anywhere else in Japan.

k to wa l A r e a d te s in u boar m 1- 3 / S now Ski

Back in 1980, UNESCO designated the majority of Shiga Kogen as a Man and the Biosphere Reserve, one of over 600 in the world. These are places where researchers are looking for innovative, whole-system ways for humans and the rest of the natural world to coexist with each other.

From the ski lift we saw strange footprints.

“Kamoshika” said my companion. I know Kamoshika, a Japanese goat-antelope, from the Studio Ghibli animated film Princess Mononoke. Imaginative, I thought.

This peaceful animal, with its wolf-like fur and mouse-like face, is said to be a protec-

The mink-like Okojyo

tor of forests. It is only at this moment that I find out that this mythical beast actually exists. My companions weren’t teasing me when they said that Shiga Kogen is an otherworldly place.

Another special animal of Shiga is the Okojyo, a little mink-like creature. The Okojyo puts on a white coat for the winter, just to keep out of your sight and keep you thinking she too is mythical.

If I ever find myself back at Shiga Kogen, it would be for hiking in mythical forests and I would bring a delicious lunch box of my own.

7967OKUS

INFORMATION Wireless LAN spot in the lobby & PC for Internet connection free of charge Dining rooms and guest lounge Restaurants (noodle bar and Teppan dining) and convenience store

ENJOY

ENGLISH SPEAKING SKI INSTRUCTORS AND GUIDES at

Sugiyama Ski & Snow Sports School Sugiyama Ski & Snow Sports School has an experienced team of locally and internationally qualified ski and snowboard instructors, ensuring you receive exper t tuition and can maximize your learning potential. Our professional instructors cater to all skill levels with lessons designed to suit first timers right through to advanced skiers and boarders.

Local Beer, Wine and Sake Meals are buffet style or Japanese style Karaoke Room Public bath is available 24 hours

Hotel Villa Ichinose, Shigakogen

7149 Hirao Yamanouchi-machi Shimotakai-gun Nagano, 381-0401 Tel: +81(0)269-34-2704 Fax: +81(0)269-34-2971 URL: http://www.villa101.biz/english/ E-mail: info@villa101.biz <Transportation> *By train and bus (from Tokyo) International Airport → Tokyo station (by Narita Express) Tokyo station → Nagano Station (by Nagano Shinkansen Express) Nagano Station → Ichinose Bus Stop (by Nagaden Express Bus)

7964VILL

Enjoy our warm and friendly service at Villa Alpen.

INFORMATION -Ski-in Ski-out Location (20 seconds to the Sunvalley lift) -The nearest ski area to Monkey Park -Free Wi-Fi in the lobby area -Ski and Snowboard Rental shop with ski binding set up by licensed mechanic.

-Bar & Restaurant located on 2nd floor WE ARE HERE!!!

Private lesson - Ski & Snowboard Adult / Child (Max 9 people per group) Suitable for Level 1 - 5 (All levels) Private Lesson Charges 1 hour (55min) .......... 8,000 JPY 2 hours (1h55min) ..... 15,000 JPY 3 hours (2h55min) .... 22,000 JPY 4 hours (3h55min) .... 28,000 JPY Full day (Max 5h) ...... 36,000 JPY Guided Tour Full day = 6 hours (incl. lunch) ※Max 6 people…36,000 JPY WE RECOMMEND TO BOOK EARLY TO ENSURE YOU RECEIVE YOUR PREFERRED LESSON TIME! (We operate on a first come, first served basis)

Kids School & Kids Park Kids ski school in Okushiga Kogen (Group lesson) Suitable for beginner to intermediate level (from 4 years old up to 12 years old) 2 hours (1h55min) ..... 4,000 JPY 4 hours (3h55min) .... 7,000 JPY

Villa Alpen http://www.shigakogen.jp/villa-alpen Tel: 0269-34-2731 Fax: 0269-34-2733 E-mail: villa-alpen@shigakogen.jp Address: Sunvalley, Shigakogen, Nagano Prf. JAPAN 381-0401

Contact us Email: info@sugiyama-ski.com Tel: +81 (0)269-34-2551 Fax: +81(0)269-34-2553

Web: http: //sugiyama-ski.com /

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Origami

Manhole design

YUDANAKA, SHIBU ONSEN

Baby snow monkey

Public boiled eggs

The historical hot spring towns have been refining the art of making visitors happy for over 1,000 years.

Shibu is essentially one long cobbled street, with over 50 traditional hot spring inns, or Ryokan.

If you have seen the dazzling Studio Ghibli animated film, Spirited Away, you’ve already glimpsed Shibu, with its 400-year-old bathhouses faithfully waiting for the gods to come and bathe.

These twin towns put effort into providing Japanese cultural experiences for their international guests. It was decided that I

Cobblestone streets and riverside inns: treasure towns of traditional Japan would first experience the joys of origami.

Surrounded by town officials, I succeeded in making a possibly very useful paper crane.

Back outside, people dressed in cotton bathrobes shuffle by, their faces glowing a soft pink. Some collect stamps at the public bath entrances to prove they had been victorious in visiting all nine, and collect their reward of health and happiness. I bet they are the same kind of people who enjoy origami.

I stayed at Biyu no Yado one of many large and impeccably-run traditional inns in Yudanaka. In my tatami-scented room,

I found teacups, tea and hot water were positioned so that everything was close to hand. The guests don’t know why life suddenly seems so light and manageable, but it’s all carefully engineered.

The evening’s entertainment was dinner, an endless succession of tantalising little dishes. The most memorable experience was when I had to pick my own shiitake mushrooms from the log which they grew in. Actually, it was a clever paper-pulp log that they packed for me to take home, along with a thoughtful stash of useful origami cranes.

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The owner of Biyu no Yado inn was telling me about an unusual guest from England.

This fellow was an award-winning nature photographer who booked in for 22 days.

“He left every morning at ten, spent the day photographing the snow monkeys and came back at four. We worked hard to make him happy, as he is a vegetarian!”

The hot spring bathing monkeys are a great tourist drawcard for Nagano. Just watching their expressions as they take refuge from the snow, worried little faces taking pleasure in the hot water, fascinates us. You have to earn your time with the monkeys. It takes a 30 minute walk up a mountain path that can be treacherously icy. An old Japanese lady who saw me sliding around gave me two walking sticks she had just finished with.

There is talk of constructing a road so busloads of tourists can see the monkeys without wasting time. The refined people of Yudanaka do not like this idea.

The long walk is beautiful and prepares your heart to see the monkeys. You forget about the built world and you become a forest-dweller.

Signboards explain the monkey visiting etiquette: Don’t talk to the monkeys. They don’t understand your language. What sounds friendly to you may be a taunt to them.

Don’t look into their eyes, as that’s an aggressive act, and you might get attacked.

Don’t eat in front of them. They do not yet associate humans with food and that’s the way it needs to be.

The Japanese macaque is the northernmost dweller of all primates, except for us humans.

The monkey park is a 10 minute ride from Yudanaka and 20 minutes from Shiga Kogen.

Tender moment between a mother and child

The treacherous path to ‘Hell’s Valley’

Suminoyu hot springs

Quaint accommodation with warm hospitality

Suminoyu

SUMINOYU is a traditional Japanese hot spring ryokan (inn) located in the 1,300-year-old hot spring town of Shibu Onsen.

Conveniently located right near the snow monkeys 100% natural spring water Traditional hot spring town with cobble stone streets Discover all nine of the free outdoor springs Enjoy the experience of wearing a Japanese yukata (light cotton kimono) during your stay Twenty minute drive to Shiga Kogen Sister property of the Olympic Hotel in Shiga Kogen

aust ralia nnat ure.c om © Pavel German

Traditional Japa nes e cuisine

Address: Shibu-onsen, Yamanouchi-machi, Shimotakai-gun, Nagano, 381-0401

Tel: +81 269-33-3128 www.suminoyu.com 7972SUMI

Elaborate meals at Biyu no Yado Inn

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A Naturally Fed Hot Spring & Deep Powder Snow Hotel Shiga Palace

Jigok udani

k Mon key Par

Come to Jigokudani Monkey Park, famous for its snow monkeys enjoying a bath at the hot springs.

Seeing the mama and papa monkeys bathing with their infants or eating an apple will bring a smile to your face.

Observe the wild monkeys in their natural environment, and take in the scenery of the Jigokudani hot springs.

te en , Mt. Yoko Sk i- Sh ig a Kog

On a fine day take in spectacular views of the Japan Sea and Mount Fuji. Experience the thrill of skiing on powder snow, and with the trees covered with snow from November to May; take your breath away with the stunning scenery. Try the ski runs from Mount Yokote, and at 2,305 meters above sea level, it has the highest ski lifts in Japan.

Information: Bath open 24 hours a day / English language support / Free Shuttle Bus to Monkey Park Free Shuttle Bus to Mt. Yokote (Ryokan Biyu no Yado only) / English speaking assistance for ski & snowboard hire

Ryokan Biyu no Yado Address: Yudanaka, Yamanouchi-machi, Shimotakai-gun, Nagano, 381-0401 Tel:+81- (0)269-33-4126 Fax:+81- (0)269-33-3800

www.yudanakaview.co.jp Shiga Palace Hotel Address: Kumanoyu Hotaru Onsen, Shigakogen, Yamanouchi-machi, Shimotakai-gun, Nagano, 381-0401 Tel: +81- (0)269-34-2221 Fax: +81- (0)269-34-2339

www.shigapalace.co.jpă&#x20AC;&#x20AC;

7978BIYU

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Hakuba Goryu Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 13 Number of runs: 16 Longest run: 5000m Maximum elevation: 1676m Steepest slope: 35 degrees Terrain: Beginner 35%, Intermediate 40%, Advanced 25% Night skiing: Yes, until 21:30 Season: Late November until early May Other: Park facilities include rails, boxes, walls and a quarter pipe.

Hakuba 47 Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 6 Number of runs: 8 Longest run: 6400m Maximum elevation: 1610m Steepest slope: 32 degrees Terrain: Beginner 30%, Intermediate 40%, Advanced 30% Night Skiing: Yes, until 22:00 Season: Early December until early May Other: Park facilities include kickers, rails, boxes, walls and cross country terrain.

Happo-One Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 24 Number of runs: 14 Longest run: 8000m Maximum elevation: 1831m Steepest slope: 35 degrees Terrain: Beginner 30%, Intermediate 50%, Advanced 20% Night skiing: Yes, until 21:00 Season: Early December until early May Other: Park facilities include quarter pipe.

HAKUBA A prosperous post-Olympic resort of fairy lights, cuckoo clocks and scary slopes Success came suddenly and recently to the fairy-lit village of Hakuba, the most glamorous of the resorts in Nagano.

Until skiing was introduced to Japan around 1900, this town was largely unvisited, apart from monks seeking solitude or the traders on the salt road, bringing their valuable currency inland and over the mountains.

Hakuba received its first ski lift in the 50’s and was visited mostly by hard core Japanese skiers.

The world saw Hakuba sparkling on the international stage of the ‘98 Winter

Olympics, hosting the Alpine, Ski Jump, and Cross country events. That changed everything. It stands out for its advanced slopes and the steep, long drops that attract the thrill seekers.

The first morning I went straight to Iwatake, one of Hakuba’s nine resorts.

You really can’t prepare yourself for such a vast expanse of clear blue, to be floating high above all those other mountains, so near the edge.

As the cliche says, it was so beautiful I really did forget to breathe. There was also the wind. Could I trust it not to carry

Tsugaike Kogen Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 19 Number of runs: 37 Longest run: 3500m Maximum elevation: 994m Steepest slope: 40 degrees Terrain: Beginner 30%, Intermediate 40%, Advanced 30% Night skiing: Yes, until 21:00 Season: Late November until early May Other: Park facilities include quarter pipe and tables.

Hakuba Iwatake Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 16 Number of runs: 15 Longest run: 3800m Maximum elevation: 1289m Steepest slope: 35 degrees Terrain: Beginner 30%, Intermediate 50%, Advanced 20% Night skiing: No Season: Mid December until early April Other: Park facilities include the slopestyle kickers, rails and waves.

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Hakuba Tokyu Hotel

Snowboarding at Happo-One

The view from a hot spring in Hakuba

me away? The drama of what I saw on the opposite peak was not reassuring, with dry snow being whipped about like smoke.

Terrified or not, the only way down is to ski down, and you find that even if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to, you can.

The hotel I stayed in was the Hakuba Tokyu, one of the top-end hotels of the town.

I was grateful for the lazy comfort of my well-appointed room with deep carpet and elegant furnishings.

Dinner was orthodox, elaborate French,

with its silver service, fine China, and no surprises.

The other guests were mostly an older crowd. The ones at the table across from ours talked the whole night about how to enjoy skiing.

The hotel hot springs were vast and bright, lined in gleaming tiles. There was a sign explaining how intruders are forbidden, and threatening random key checks of all bathers.

It seems these Hakuba guys really are new to this hot spring and graciousness thing.

They should talk to Nozawa.

Hotel Taigakukan

Not that the town is staid. There is a healthy diversity in prices and the nightlife, with little mini-cultures taking hold here and gathering at different bars. I spotted Reggae skiers and a few of their murals.

I heard thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a new breed of vegetarian crystal-loving skiers, and for sure there are plenty of shopping-loving skiers, with something to buy every few steps you take.

The Shakespeare Hotel is one such place.

Its architecture is pretend British, with its log-vaulted ceiling and western-style

Hakuba's Leading Accommodation Group with best Japanese hospitality.

Locals with regional knowledge will be your perfect concierge in your best ski holiday.

w w w . h a k u b a t o u r i s m . j p

7695HAKU

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The view from Happo-One

Cecilia sheltering under eaves at the Shakespeare Hotel

Hotel Taigakukan hot springs

rooms. Its shops are filled with cute, high-quality Japanese souvenirs and ski clothes.

There were even racks of opulently coloured, beautifully designed Goldwin ski gear. The designs have the kind of asymmetries and contrasts you would find in a refined Japanese garden. I won’t find these in Australia.

Having a Goldwin suit is a little bit like owning an Apple Mac, in that it looks expensive, disappears into the background, and takes away all your problems with its hidden pockets which appear

Hotel Hakuba Hifumi

when you wish for them.

It turns out that the construction of these jackets is based on ancient armour. Like Ogasaka Ski, Goldwin is one of those samurai-spirited companies with a long history, which has strived for excellence.

On my final morning, I had a chance to get up early and watch the snow jumpers compete. Of course, they are not jumping, they are flying. One of the banners for the event has the slogan, “Never good enough.”

Some people are just born with a desire to be chasing greatness, and I’m realising

you find plenty of them here on these snow fields.

Should I feel sad when they still believe, after all that hard work, they are never good enough?

Maybe its the chasing, rather than the arriving, that’s the fun of success.

Hakuba isn’t the first-choice designation of the Japanophile set, but it is one of the most beautiful ski resorts in the world. The presence of all those Europeans, so far from their own snow, is a big vote of love.

7963HAKU

Shakespeare Hotel

白馬山麓 八方尾根 シェイクスピアホテル

Hakuba's landmark English Tudor style resort hotel in Echoland Convenient access to all ski areas from the bus stop located right in front of the hotel Ski reservation and information service for the whole Hakuba valley Oaza Hokujo 3020-567 Hakuba Village Kita Azumi-Gun Nagano Prefecture Tel: 0261-72-6666 Fax: 0261-72-6500 Email: info@hakuba-shakespearehotel.com

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Photo: Matt Hull MyokoSnowsports.com

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Tree skiing(Photo: Matt Hull MyokoSnowsports.com)

With Rara, Myoko Snowsports School

MYOKO KOGEN

Peaceful nights in Myoko town (Photo: Matt Hull MyokoSnowsports.com)

Family friendly Myoko: with snow this good, you don’t need to renovate the lobby Myoko is a old-timer ski town that doesn’t need to put on glamor in its hotel lobbies.

They can just get by coasting on what nature provided, such as record-breaking amounts of snowfall accompanied by sunny days, family-friendly and adventurous slopes, and easy train access.

Walking down the main street at twilight, tiny shops, relics of the sixties, hold their ground amidst four meter drifts of snow.

Young Japanese tourists gather around steamng fonts. Exciting illicit substances?

Actually, hot-spring eggs. “It’s not much of a party town,” I was told.

“First, pay money! Next, Eat!” says the sign above the honesty box.

While the tone of the town is Tough Mother love, on the slopes you get pretty much whatever you want. Want to leave your kids on gentle slope with deft instructors? “Done.” Want some risky skiing in trees? “We have a off-slope guide to accompany you and a nice survival kit already packed.” You want instruction in Finnish or French? The school attracts and keeps the world’s most passionate teachers. A roving photographer records you in your snowy glory.

“We aren’t cooking tonight, so you’ll have to get your own dinner”, the Ryokan lady informs us the night we arrive.

We wandered down the main street, peering into the humble old-timer shops to choose our dinner. We pick a log-cabin style place with an eccentric menu that includes raisins in butter. People eat that?

No party animals to be seen.

Decorations include a stuffed tanuki raccoon, a fake cat curled snugly, and beside me, sit two handsome locals with a lapdog. It’s rough, charming, and yes, feels just like home.

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A ski paradise with the best powder snow in the world

Hokkaido is located at the Northern end of the Japanese archipelago. Geographically, it is an island surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, the Japan Sea and the Sea of Okhotsk.

Hokkaido is famous for its variety of landscapes and scenery, including vast marshes, sweeping grasslands and beautiful lakes among the magnificent mountains.

The weather in Hokkaido is generally cool and has the low humidity of a micro-thermal winter climate. It is also well-known as a comfortable area to be. Winter days are typically accompanied by heavy snowfall, which creates an abundance of ski grounds on the mountainsides. The Winter Olympics were held nearby in Sapporo in 1972, which is the capital of Hokkaido.

Niseko is a popular area among Australian skiers and snowboarders thanks to its exceptional soft powder snow, which makes it highly enjoyable to plow through. Recently, other areas in central Hokkaido are being explored by skiers for their excellent quality pistes. The region currently remains an open secret among international winter sports enthusiasts, which have dubbed it the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Powder Belt.â&#x20AC;?

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Niseko Grand Hirafu Ski Resort Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 16 Number of runs: 30 Longest run: 5600m Maximum elevation: 1200m Steepest slope: 40 degrees Terrain: Beginner 30%, Intermediate 38%, Advanced 32% Night skiing: Yes, until 20:30 Season: Late November until early May Other: Park facilities include waves, banks and rails.

©Photo courtesy of Niseko Village

Niseko Village Ski Resort Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 7 Number of runs: 27 Longest run: 5000m Maximum elevation: 1029m Steepest slope: 35 degrees Terrain: Beginner 36%, Intermediate 32%, Advanced 32% Night skiing: Yes, until 21:00 Season: Late November until early May Other: Park facilities include tables, kickers and rails.

Niseko An’nupuri Ski Resort Number of lifts (Incl. gondolas): 6 Number of runs: 13 Longest run: 4000m Maximum elevation: 1156m Steepest slope: 34 degrees Terrain: Beginner 30%, Intermediate 40%, Advanced 30% Night skiing: Yes, until 21:00 Season: Early December until early May Other: Park facilities include snow tubing.

NISEKO Three world-class resorts in one

Niseko An’nupuri Ski Resort

It is not unheard of to have -20 oC temperatures during night skiing

Niseko is a winter wonderland composed of 38 Gondolas connected by 61 pistes with 15 metres of powder snow brought

by Northwest winds straight from Siberia.

These resorts are linked by ski lifts and shuttle buses via a single pass, making it a prized location for international skiers, including 10,000 Australian skiers last year. This area has a unique international and Japanese feel, with lodgings and other facilities catering for tourists, including luxury apartments and services available in English.

The Niseko Grand Hirafu Ski Resort is

geared for all the needs of overseas skiers, including equipment rental, convenience stores and a pub, as well as ski lessons and tours in English.

The Niseko Village Ski Resort is a luxurious four season resort with sweeping panoramas of the dormant volcano, Mount Yotei.

The various slopes even have memorable names such as “Cruiser” and “Pure Magic” attached to them.

Niseko An’nupuri, which includes the smaller ski area of Hanazono, has 13 mostly wide runs aimed at beginners, and is open from December until May.

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Special Contribution

The Powder Belt of Central Hokkaido

Japan’s Last Frontier Text & Photos: Masaaki Kato

If you’re looking for the best snow in the world, then look no further People, people and yet more people rush into the rush-hour trains, lost in the smartphones in their hands. The elderly passenger right in front of them is all but invisible, pushed around while clinging to the hand rails. This is the daily life of the city, a life I chose to escape via a 20km route each day weaving through the traf-

Breathtaking sunsets (Asahidake)

fic on road bike. And three times a week, I would go to kendo training for an hour after work before riding back home.

In this way, I managed to get about my life as editor of a ski magazine with its equal parts of joy and stress. However, another voice inside was screaming to be set free.

“Go north,” it said. “You must go north. If you have to start again, then go north and learn to live in the wilderness.”

And so it was, at the age of 52, I found myself on a low-lying hill before the snowy mountains of central Hokkaido and began to build a small lodge.

Everyone I met had the same question “why are you here?” I suppose I must have been a curious sight, for after 28 years’ visiting famous ski resorts across the globe, the region I had chosen was the most untamed, the most dangerous and most beautiful of all. It was a place full of grandeur and freedom: the last frontier.

I knew full well of its beauty before arriving, but this knowledge made it no easier a place to live. The locals, grown strong

through many years in the wilderness, possess a great wisdom and endurance.

Strong-willed by nature, they look out for one another and are accepting of those who come from the outside.

But as a winter tourist destination, it left much to be desired. The ski resorts were entirely independent and unaware of their value within the grand powder belt.

The snow of Daisetsuzan National Park was undeniably some of the best in the world, with diamond dust and sun pillars, and a cold, dry inland climate that makes it hard for snow to melt, but few knew of its wonders. Or maybe the enthusiasts who had been quietly enjoying the area didn’t want to lose their secret.

A trip to the back country on snow shoes, with the lightness and clarity of the snow underfoot, is sure to take your breath away. The most beautiful snow flakes form when the conditions are just right.

When venturing out in the back country, I highly recommend taking a guide, as this is not the kind of place where there

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Heading to the Furano Town on Furano Blue Bird Day at Furano ski Resort

Plumes of smoke from Asahidake

Masaaki Kato Representative of Hokusei Kobo and editor in chief of the telemark skiing magazine, Soul Slide. Worked for Ski Journal from 1982 to 2010, and as editor in chief for the monthly Ski Journal for 12 years from 1995. He now works on the Northern Star Lodge in Hokkaido that is set to open this summer.

are patrols and other people around. This is a basic fact that needs to be accepted before exploring the true back country in any part of the world.

There are ski slopes with lifts for skiing the powder, but the magnificent backdrops that adorn postcards are only reachable by foot. If you are looking for the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best snow, then look no further than Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s last frontier, the Powder Belt in Hokkaido.

Cat Tour in Hoshino Resort Tomamu

Backcountry skiing from the top of Mt. Kurodake

Masaaki sidecountry skiing at Kamui ski links

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Across the Breezy Seto Inland Sea on Bicycle

AC R O S S T H E BREEZY SETO INLAND SEA ON A BICYCLE

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Shimanami Kaido is a scenic road weaving its way between the Shikoku and Honshu islands of Japan. In recent times it has become popular amongst Japanese and foreign visitors who attempt to cycle along its 70km route.

Part of the reason for its popularity is that most people of reasonable fitness can complete this route, which is lined with beautiful trees that change colour each season. When riding over the many bridges, you can become one with the wind and the sea.

Text: Azusa Mori

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Tatara bridge passes over numerous islands that dot the beautiful ocean

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Left: Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi Bridge. Top: The modest and tranquil Oyamazumi Shrine, where the body and soul can take a brief rest. Centre: Fresh seafood. Bottom: Onomichi in Hiroshima is famous for “Onomichi Yaki”.

TRAVEL TIPS 1. The Cities of Onomichi and Imabari mark the starting point of your trip. They are easily accessed by train with Japan Railways serving both cities. The tourist information centre is also nearby.

The Seto Inland Sea in Japan is surrounded by the three large islands of Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu. The Shimanami Kaido scenic road crosses over six islands on its way from Honshu to Shikoku, namely Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima and Oshima.

Onomichi at the northern end of the route is in Hiroshima Prefecture, famous for its “Atomic Bomb Dome”. The southern end is in Ehime Prefecture, which is famous for “Dogo Onsen”, one of the best hot springs in Japan.

While the course is about 70 km, even beginners can enjoy it by tackling parts of the route for a few hours each day. There are 15 locations on the route where you can hire and return bicycles, starting from just 500 yen per day. Whether you prefer Road Bikes, battery assisted bicycles, mountain or tandem bikes, they have them available for hire.

One of the highlights is the scenic view of the bridge. These spots are easy to find due to the many cyclists who park their bikes and admire the views. The beautiful blue sky offsets the lush mountains, which are in red and yellow hues depending on the season.

There are also roads that run through

mountains and pass by many a country house, providing a glimpse into what village life is like. I have met many kindly folk who have encouraged me with a friendly wave, a smile, and by urging me to take care and do my best.

For beginners who wish to complete the whole route, it is best to divide the trip into two days. On the way, take the time to try the gelato made with local ingredients or pick some mandarin oranges.

If you wish to make the most of the majestic scenery, I recommend that you go from north to south. I’m amazed by the sense of accomplishment as I ascend the hill leading to the bridge and then finally cross it, enjoying the breathtaking and magnificent views of the sea and mountains. Then, as I descended, I felt the sea breezes all around me.

When people think about travelling in Japan, many immediately think of the major landmarks in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and Hiroshima. Next time, why not stretch your legs a little and try the Shimanami Kaido by bike? Everyone can enjoy it, including families and couples.

If you are a keen fan of cycling, a competition is held on the Shimanami Kaido in October 2013.

2. If you plan to cross all the bridges, remember to carry 500 yen for the tolls.

For a limited time, the “Cycling Shimanami” coupon is available for $250. In addition to the tolls, it comes with the discount vouchers for local products and facilities. This coupon is sold at the bicycle terminals in Onomichi and Imabari, the Onomichi station tourist office, and selected convenience stores and hotels.

Besides only paying half price for the tolls, there are other benefits.

3. If you are going on a one day trip, leave your luggage at your accommodation, take a train or bus to the furthest point that you can return to in one day, and hire a bike from that point back to your accommodation. Alternatively, just ride as far as you can, but make sure that you can return in one day. If you are visiting Onomichi over two days, send your luggage to the accommodation place at your final destination, and just carry with you a change of clothes in a small backpack.

4. There are inns along the Shimanami route, so it would be good to stay somewhere on the first day. If you are not sure where to book, ask the travel information centre for advice.

5. If you aren’t used to cycling long distances, you are likely to get a sore bottom at the end of the day. To prepare for this eventuality, get some special cycling pants with extra padding or get a padded saddle cover. You can get either from a bike shop.

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1. Small Buddhist statues at Jikouji temple. 2. Paths for bicycles and motorcycles. 3. The famous gelato store called “Dolce”. Mandarin and salt flavours are recommended. 4. Kousanji temple. 5. Mandarins can be gathered at farms along the sea route. 6. The romantic sunset beach. 7. Clap your hands in the vicinity of the main shaft of Tatara Ohashi and the sound echoes 8. Offerings of sake barrels at Oyamazumi Shrine.

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Omishima Island

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Imabari

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Ikuchijima Island

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Oshima Island

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Mukaishima Island

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Innoshima Island

Recommended Route

1 Innoshima Ohashi Bridge 2 Ikuchi bashi Bridge 3 Tatara Ohashi Bridge

Intermediate Route

4 Omishima bashi Bridge 5 Hakata-Oshima Ohashi Bridge 6 Kurushima-kaikyo Ohashi Bridge

Advanced Route Rent-a-cycle Terminal

9. Mikan candy which was bought at a rest facility along the sea route called “roadside station”. 10. Taking a rest at Hakata-Oshima Bridge. 11. A beautiful rose garden. 12. Fresh seafood roasted over a charcoal fire can be eaten at the Yoshiumi-Ikikikan rest facility. 13. The swirling ocean tide. 14.

The longest bridge within the sea route is the Kurushima channel bridge. 15. Imabari Castle in Imabari City.

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WIN a Lucky Charm one of two amulets from Oyamazumi Shrine aimed at cyclists! Just attach it to your helmet and enjoy a safer journey.

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Send your name, postal address and feedback to nichigopress@gmail.com.

Valid between 1 May - 1 Dec 2013.

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Across the Breezy Seto Inland Sea on Bicycle

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EHIME

TOKUSHIMA

Ehime, the birthplace of wellknown poet Shiki Masaoka, is filled with places that will bring out your sensitive side. Here you can see traditional houses lined up along the streets, experience the culture of atmospheric towns such as Uchiko, or visit Dogo Onsen, one of Japan’s landmark hot springs. Dogo Onsen, which was first mentioned in an eighth century poetry anthology, is one of the oldest onsen in Japan.

Relax your mind and body as you feel the nostalgia of traditional Japan. Seafood is a big part of the cuisine in Ehime. You should try ‘Taimeshi’, the local cuisine made up of sea bream sashimi placed over sea bream infused rice. Mikan mandarins are also well known in Ehime, and there are even places where you can enjoy mikan picking.

The magic of nature can be seen and enjoyed all throughout Tokushima, from the Naruto Whirlpool in the Seto Inland Sea to the secluded Oboke and Iya valleys, located deep within the mountains. If you have time to go sightseeing, staying a few nights in Oboke to soak up the forest atmosphere is highly recommended.

You can also experience river-rafting down the Yoshino River in the Oboke valley while admiring the surrounding mountains. During the summer month of August, you can also see the traditional Awa Odori Dance Festival that is held in the city. Dancing together with the children will definitely become an everlasting memory. In the simple town of Iya, located deep within the mountain, you can learn how to make Iya Soba from the locals and taste the traditional flavour in the process.

Top: Awa Odori Festival is held every year around August. Bottom: Going down an exciting river is definitely worth trying.

The shape of this island somewhat resembles Australia, and the word ‘Shikoku’ translates to 4 (shi) provinces (koku). Shikoku thrives with beautiful nature and culture that has been protected over generations, giving visitors a feeling of comfort and well being. If you’re travelling to Tokyo or Kyoto to sightsee from Hiroshima, how about visiting the four provinces, Ehime, Kochi, Tokushima and Kagawa, as you travel across the Shimanami sea road into Shikoku?

KOCHI

KAGAWA

Kochi, which faces the Pacific Ocean, is where many leaders of Japan such as the Shishi political group and Ryoma Sakamoto (who was very influential from the end of Edo period to the Meiji Restoration) were active in the development of Japan. Their lasting effects can still be sensed through the nature and people. Why not visit the Shimanto River, known as ‘the last clean river in Japan’. The reflection of the surrounding mountains and clear blue sky will take your breath away. For sightseeing, Kochi Castle and the Sunday Markets are highly recommended. In summer, you can see many dancers partake in the Yosakoi festival. Sawachi cuisine, consisting of fresh sashimi and sushi, and lightly roasted bonito cooked in bundles of straw, is just one of the exquisite foods you can sample.

Kagawa, located in the northeast of Shikoku, is known not only for being a prime location for filming domestic movies, but also for its artistic and romantic feeling. On the island of Naoshima, which can be accessed by ferry from the major city by Takamatsu, many art works by leading current artists, such as Yayoi Kusama, can be seen around the island. Right now, the ‘Setouchi Triennale’ international art festival is under way. It will run from spring through to autumn (4 November) across the Setouchi islands, starting with Naoshima. On Shodo Island, there is a sand island (Angel Road) that can only be seen twice a day in low tide, making it popular among couples who see it as a sacred spot. In Kagawa, you can try the famous sanuki udon for just a few hundred yen. One taste and you will be hooked.

©JNTO

Top: It is enjoyable to walk around Kochi Castle. Bottom: The clearest stream in Japan, Shimantogawa.

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Experience the art of this ancient province

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Where nature and humans come together

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After cycling from Hiroshima, why not travel around Shikoku?

©Tokushima Prefecture / ©JNTO

©Ehime Prefecture / ©JNTO

Top: Dogo Onsen, one of the most famous onsens in Japan.

Bottom: Fresh bream is used abundantly in Taimeshi.

©Tokushima Prefecture / ©JNTO

Hidden beauties surrounded by nature

©Ehime Prefecture / ©JNTO

Abundant with historic sentiment

Top: The Kaede Gishi area of Kuribayashi Park. Bottom: Sanuki Udon.

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PAR ADISE AMONGST THE WAVES Okinawa, a paradise amongst the waves, is a group of 160 islands which dot the tropical blue seas about the southernmost reaches of Japan. Blessed by warm, subtropical waters and beautiful coral reefs, the islands are a treasure trove of wondrous plants and animals. Okinawa’s close proximity with mainland Asia and long relationship with different cultures has afforded it a different history and culture that is altogether different from that of mainland Japan.

The Okinawa of today is a product of diverse influences. During the period from 1429 to 1879, Okinawa was known as the Ryukyu Kingdom. Visitors can still see remnants of Okinawa’s history in the region’s traditional arts and crafts, culture and cuisine. In this article, we take a look at what Okinawa has to offer through the eyes of the three Miss Okinawas of 2013.

Courtesy of Okinawa Convention & Visitors Bureau Photo images: Copyright 2013 Okinawa Convention & Visitors Bureau, All Rights Reserved

The three Miss Okinawas of 2013. From left - Mei Matayoshi, Rina Nagahama, and Minami Yamada.

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Left: A manta ray near Ishigaki Island Upper right: Even beginners can dive Lower right: Beautiful coral reefs

MINAMI’S RECOMMENDATION

Diving in Okinawa Okinawa’s temperate climate allows visitors to enjoy the great outdoors throughout the year, with temperatures never dropping below 15 to 20 degrees.

The water temperature never falls below 20 degrees, providing the perfect environment for enjoying diving amongst the brilliantly colourful and mysterious underwater world of the coral reefs.

Okinawa is host to countless diving spots.

Diving shops are in abundance and you are sure to find a diving tour to suit your tastes.

Our first stop is the Kerama Islands, renowned worldwide for their crystalclear waters called kerama blue. Kerama Islands are a group of islands formed by over 20 independent landmasses which can be reached in one hour by boat from Okinawa’s capital city of Naha. Many of

An experience unlike any other

these islands are uninhabited and boast unspoiled natural beauty. The waters around Tokashiki Island, Zamami Island and Aka Island are popular diving spots, with beautiful coral reefs and sightings of sea snakes, manta rays, and even humpback whales from December to April each year.

Kabira Bay on scenic Ishigaki Island has been awarded three stars by the Michelin Green Guide Japan and is famous for its nearby viewing spots for manta rays. Visitors are almost assured of an encounter with these majestic creatures during the summer months from April to September, with the largest manta rays growing up to 5m in size.

Next on our tour is Yonaguni Island, the westernmost point of Japan. Yonaguni Island is the site of the famous Iseki Point diving spot, which is said to have been

formed when geographical formations above sea level sank beneath the waves 2000 to 8000 years ago. During the winter months, visitors can see schools of hammerhead sharks swimming in the waters.

A particular recommendation for advanced divers in the north of Okinawa’s island chain is the chance to go diving at a shipwreck site. The remains of the USS Emmons, a ship which was sunk during WWII, now lie beneath the waves at a depth of 40m. Irabu Island and Shimoji Island near to Miyako Island also offer an excellent spot for exploring underwater caverns.

The treasures of the seas around Okinawa are sure to please both beginner and advanced alike, and there is nothing quite like the experience of immersing yourself in the incredible world of the Okinawan blue.

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RINA’S RECOMMENDATION

World heritage sites Okinawa is the proud owner of nine buildings and other sites registered as world heritage in the Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu. The word gusuku refers to the castle sites of the nobility during the time of the Ryukyu Kingdom. Visiting these buildings and sites is a chance to come into contact with Okinawa’s unique history and culture.

The main attraction is without a doubt Shuri Castle, a symbol of Ryukyu history and culture. This castle was the centre of all politics, foreign affairs and culture during the reign of the Ryukyu Kingdom. Its unique architectural design incorporates elements from both Japan and China. At its heart is the main temple - the largest wooden building in all Okinawa, whose colourful decorations are a testament to the kingdom’s prosperity.

Near the Shuri Castle site are the Tamau-

Remnants of the Ryukyu Kingdom

dun Mausoleum and the Sonohyan Utaki Stone Gate. Tamaudun is the stone mausoleum where the royal family that reigned over the Ryukyu Kingdom for 400 years is now interred. It has three main chambers that are surrounded with stone walls and carved into the natural rock surroundings in a spectacular facade.

The Sonohyan Utaki Stone Gate was used as a site to pray for safe travel on leaving the Ryukyu Kingdom. The gate is entirely made from stone with the exception of its great wooden doors. The fine detail of the carvings hints at the high level of skill of the artisans at that time.

To the south of Shuri Castle are the Shikinaen Gardens, also known as Nanen, a leisure house of the royal family of the Ryukyu Kingdom. Here, visitors can follow a winding path and enjoy the many changes in scenery amongst these stately surrounds. These gardens are said to have been used for recreation by the royal

family and for entertaining guests from overseas.

Four other locations for Gusuku ruins are the Zakimi Castle Ruins, Nakijin Castle Ruins, Katsuren Castle Ruins and Nakagusuku Castle Ruins, each of which was built from the middle of the 14th century.

Only the walls and gates of these sites now remain, but the multi-faceted corallimestone used in their construction clearly displays architectural characteristics unique to the Ryukyu Kingdom.

The final ruin on the island is Sefa-Utaki, one of the Ryukyu’s most well-known and sacred spots, said to have been created by the godness Amamikiyo, the source of world creation myths for the Ryukyu.

Six homes of the gods are situated here, the oldest of which are Ufugui where the coronation of the highest ranked princess Kikoeokimi is said to have been held, and Sangui in which two large rocks come together to form a triangular cavern.

Left: Nakagusuku Castle Ruins Top: Katsuren Castle Ruins Lower left: Sefa-Utaki Lower right: Shuri Castle

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Ocean Expo park / Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium

Top: The main tank at Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium is called the ‘The Kuroshio Sea’ Left: The distinctive red brick of a traditional house at Murasaki Mura Village Centre: Stalactites at Okinawa World Right: Traditional dance at Ryukyu Mura

MEI’S RECOMMENDATION

Amusement parks with a local touch Okinawa is also home to a number of theme parks that can be enjoyed by couples and families alike. The following are four of its most famous, each of which offers a taste of Okinawa’s natural surrounds, its history and traditional culture.

Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium in the Ocean Expo Park in Motobu-cho boasts the world-class aquarium tank, called The Kuroshio Sea, which offers a view of the oceans surrounding Okinawa. From the giant viewing panel to the Aqua Room, this enormous tank of 7,500m3 provides visitors with a close-up look at giant whale sharks, manta rays, bonito fish, tuna, and other grand creatures of the Kuroshio waters. Other attractions include the Coral Sea tank that houses more than 800 colonies of coral of over 70 different types, and the Deep Sea Area

Your one-stop shop for Okinawan culture

in which inhabitants of the deep waters living more than 200m below sea level are on display. Churaumi Aquarium is one of Okinawa’s major attractions, delivering a glimpse of the magical world beneath the sea.

Another popular destination is Ryukyumura at Onna Village in Kunigami. This is a recreated folk village where each of the houses found here has red-tiled roofs 100 to 200 years old. Here, visitors can get a taste of the Okinawa of the past and discover firsthand how the people of the islands once lived. Nowhere else in all Japan will you find scenes of water buffalo being used to draw carts for cultivating sugar cane to produce dark sugar.

You can also enjoy Okinawan culture with performances of sanshin music, traditional bingata dyeing techniques, traditional Okinawan dance, weaving and pottery.

Moving on, we come to Murasaki Mura

of Yomitan Village in Nakagami - a theme park that brings to life the bright and colorful townscapes that gave birth to the noble culture of 15th century Okinawa.

Each of the red-tiled buildings in the park is home to workshops where visitors can try their hand at making lion-dog statues, bingata, glass blowing, glass bead making and much more. In total, 101 different workshops are on offer. Visitors can also experience the traditional martial art of karate, which is said to have originated in Okinawa.

Last of all, Okinawa World in Nanjo City is home to a traditional townscape that offers visitors a wide range of cultural pursuits. Its main attraction, however, is one of the few limestone caverns to be found in Japan. The snake and mongoose shows and traditional eisa dance that can be seen here for free each day are also a must see!

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Upper left: Hawaiian style shirts made using traditional weaving patterns Lower left: ‘Goya Chanpuru’ made with goya melon, tofu and pork Right: Awamori, Okinawa’s favourite alcoholic beverage

MINAMI’S RECOMMENDATION

In with the new Okinawa’s culture is overflowing with signs of influence from other regions such as China, Korea, South Asia and the US, each of which is blended into Okinawa’s unique culture. This eclectic culture is known as chanpuru.

Chanpuru takes its name from the Okinawan dish with a mix of ingredients around a base of tofu and vegetables.

Okinawa today is an amalgamation of many different cultures fostered through its geographical proximity to China, mainland Japan, Korea and Southeast Asia, as well as the influence of American troops following the end of WWII. An example of this is found in Okinawa’s local alcoholic beverage known as awamori, which originally hails from Thailand. Another example is the sanshin, a three-stringed instrument that is at

Chanpuru: Okinawa’s Distinctive Culture

the heart of Okinawan music and draws its roots from an instrument called the sanxian brought from China during in the 14th and 15th centuries. The original sanshin instruments were created using the skin of the Burmese Python, but in mainland Japan where this skin could not be obtained, the instrument evolved into the shamisen of today which uses cat skin in its place.

Another spot where visitors can come into contact with Okinawa’s chanpuru culture is Mihama American Village in Chatan Town in the mid south of mainland Okinawa, a city-style resort built by an American army base. This resort area features amusements, shopping arcades, bars and more.

The youth of Koza in Okinawa City, which includes many foreign residents amongst its population have been strongly influ-

enced by music brought in from the United States in the 1970s. Koza is famous for its new style of Okinawan rock, and now boasts a number of areas that feature live music and restaurants which have a distinctly foreign air.

Moreover, an increasing number of performers are beginning to use traditional Okinawan musical scales and apply them to rock, reggae and other genres, some of whom have made their debut not only in Japan but also overseas.

No talk of chanpuru culture could be complete without mention of ‘taco rice’, another Okinawan dish that has become a common item on menus. This dish combines minced meat, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and other taco ingredients with a bed of rice, yet another example of how a dish prepared for American troops has gained mainstream appeal.

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RINA’S RECOMMENDATION

Unique, bright, and colourful While Okinawa’s theme parks offer an easily accessible introduction to the region’s traditional culture in the one location, a more authentic experience awaits in the local townships, buildings and venues where Okinawa’s traditions thrive today.

Breweries of awamori, Japan’s oldest distilled alcoholic beverage, can be found all across Okinawa. A visit to a brewery for a tour or a tasting can be a wonderful experience.

Numerous workshops also promise the opportunity to see and experience Okinawa’s traditional arts and crafts firsthand.

See bingata, a dyeing technique used to create bright and colourful patterns and designs, Okinawan lacquer ware with its brilliant red that can only be produced in Okinawa’s warm climate, joyachi ceramics with their bright and decorative glaze, and bashofu, a type of cloth made using

Okinawa’s traditional culture

banana tree fiber.

However, no trip to Okinawa could ever be complete without seeing its traditional performing arts. Traditional Okinawan dance, performed in time to the soft sounds of the sanshin, can be broadly broken into three different categories: an older style that was performed to welcome visitors to the court of the Ryukyu Kingdom; the zoodori, a more energetic recent style for the common people; and a modern form that has been arranged to suit modern tastes. Each of these styles can be enjoyed as a professional production on municipal and prefectural stages or in Ryukyuan restaurants while enjoying the local cuisine.

Another of Okinawa’s dances is eisa, the region’s own local variant of Japan’s famous bon odori, a dance inseparable from images of summer and enjoyed by men and women alike. Eisa events can be seen from July to September each year all across Okinawa. The largest of these are

Upper left: The sanshin, a traditional Okinawan musical instrument Lower left: Exquisite Ryukyu glassware Right: Bashofu or banana fibre cloth Extreme Right: Dancers playing a traditional percussion instrument

the All-Okinawa Eisa Festival in Okinawa City held in early August, and the 10,000 People Eisa Dance Parade held in Naha City in late August. Be sure to mark them on your calendar!

Local, more intimate venues known as minyo sakaba, allow visitors to experience traditional local song at close quarters. There are many different types of minyo sakaba, from those with a more up-tempo beat to places where you can simply sit back and relax. All provide a place to enjoy awamori and Okinawan cuisine while listening to the traditional songs of Okinawa.

The people of Okinawa are cheerful by nature and love to sing and dance. Joining them for a drink while listening to a song and, as the night grows long, taking part yourself is a must.

Heading off to remote islands or the countryside is a great way to come into contact with locals, such as fishermen and farmers.

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Top: A beautiful beach on an isolated island Left: Touring Taketomi Island in a cart drawn by a water buffalo Centre: Traditional houses on Taketomi Island Right: Iriomote Island

MEI’S RECOMMENDATION

Okinawa’s Remote Islands The more remote islands of Okinawa are popular spots for tourists from all over the world. Enjoy clear blue waters under the wide open sky, the engaging local culture, the unique cuisine and the company of the friendly people.

Some 400km from mainland Okinawa are the Yaeyama Islands clustered around Ishigaki Island. Island hopping off the coast of Ishigaki at Taketomi, Iriomote, Kohama, Kuro, and Hateruma Island is a great way to see the area.

Ishigaki Island can be reached by plane in one hour from Naha Airport via the New Ishigaki Airport. Ishigaki Island itself has numerous tourist spots such as Kabira Bay and diving spots where manta rays can be seen, while the township on Ishigaki

Taking it easy the Okinawan way

Island is the perfect spot from which to visit the surrounding islands.

On Taketomi Island, the historic houses have been designated as one of Japan’s Important Preservation Districts for Groups of Traditional Buildings. The island’s residents have a keen interest in preserving the old town and the culture it holds. A tour of the island’s tourist destinations via a cart drawn by water buffalo or enjoying a drink while listening to tales of tourist guides and locals is sure to become a memory you will never forget.

Meanwhile, on Iriomote Island, over 90% of the land is covered in subtropical jungle, a feature that has earned it the title of the Galapagos of Asia. In addition to rare animals such as the Iriomote wildcat, a natural treasure, the island is

also blessed with mud flats covered in mangroves, clear blue oceans, coral reefs and white sandy beaches. Whether you want go mountain climbing through the jungles or kayaking in the mangroves, gliding down rivers in a canoe or diving and snorkeling, Iriomote Island has more than enough adventure for all.

Kohama, Kuro, Hateruma and the other islands around Ishigaki Island can also be visited, and the main attraction here is their inviting emptiness. The pure white beaches without a trace of human activity are a perfect place to spend the day and enjoy the beauty of having to do nothing at all. There are no showers or shops, but what you can experience is time alone in the midst of natural splendor and a chance to get in touch with your inner self.

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Destination : Okinawa In addition to flights from Australia to Okinawa via JAL and QANTAS, Okinawa can also be reached via Tokyo or Osaka by Jetstar. Okinawa is also close to the major cities of Taipei, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Seoul, all from 1.5 to 2.5 hours away via plane.

Travellers from Australia can reach Okinawa by travelling with China Airlines, Hong Kong Express Airways, Hainan Airlines, China Eastern Airlines, and Asiana Airlines.

How to get there

Beijing

Seoul Tokyo Osaka Shanghai

Taichung

In August Eisa dance events are held all over Okinawa

Taipei

Okinawa (Naha Airport)

Hong Kong

■Duration from Tokyo from Osaka from Seoul from Beijing from Shanghai from Taipei from Taichung from Hong Kong

approx. 3hrs approx. 2hrs approx. 2hrs approx. 3hrs approx. 2hrs approx. 1.5hrs approx. 1.6hrs approx 2.5hrs

Clever you. Discover the best way to Japan’s deep South.

Taiwan’s China Airlines Take the smart route into Okinawa and out of Tokyo. Combine ferries in Okinawa with the Japan Rail Pass from Kyushu Northwards. www.china-airlines.com/au

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P E N I N S U L A A PILGRIMAGE INTO THE PAST The Kumano Kodo, an ancient and intricate network of six pilgrimage trails traversing Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mountainous Kii Peninsula, spans three provinces and thousands of years in history. With its spectacular gorges and mysterious shrines and temples, the Kumano Kodo offers modern day pilgrims the opportunity to experience the physical and spiritual landscapes of Japan.

Text: Anne Phillips

Sea of clouds in Kumano ŠJNTO

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Kyoto

Osaka Yoshino

Mie Ise Shrine

Nara

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Kumano Kodo

Wakayama Kumano Hongu Shrine Kumano Nachi Shrine

Kumano Hayatama Shrine

Left) Moss covered cobblestones from Kumano’s old road. Right) Held every year on July 14, the intense Nachi Fire Festival includes running up stone steps aided only by torchlight.

For thousands of years pilgrims ranging from members of the Imperial family to well-heeled commoners have journeyed along the Kumano Kodo to visit the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano.

Historically, the return journey from Kyoto took over a month and consisted of long days spent traversing the mountain paths, interspersed with relaxing baths in the purifying waters of the Kii Peninsula’s many hot springs. Travellers also marvelled at natural wonders such as the

Nachi Waterfall and worshipped at the many shrines and temples found along the way.

Although pilgrims were undoubtedly glad to reach their destination, the journey along the weathered stone paths of the Kumano Kodo was an important part of their experience. Fittingly, the pilgrimage trail itself has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with the sacred temple precinct of Mount Koya and the Yoishino Omine area in Nara.

These days, the Kumano Kodo has been made accessible by modern transport and the availability of maps detailing well-defined trails which are suited to all ages and levels of fitness.

The trail meanders through the three prefectures of the Kii Peninsula: Wakayama extending down the western side to the southern tip, Nara in the north and Mie in the north east, enabling travellers to sample the distinctive culture and cuisine of each region.

KUMANO

KOYASAN

Holy mountaion

top town with a 1,200-year history

Japan's resting place of the Gods

UNESCO World Heritage Site

'Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range'

Wakayama Prefecture www.wakayama-kanko.or.jp/world/english/index.html

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Top) Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine.

Bottom left) Vegetarian Shojin Ryori served at Mt. Koya temple. Bottom centre) Nachi Shrine and Nachi Waterfall. Bottom right) Enjoy onsen or the beach at Shirahama.

WAKAYAMA Wakayama and the Kumano River

The Mount Koya Temple Precinct

Waterfalls and Beaches

The main shrine of Kumano, Kumano Hongu Taisha, has been a focal point for travellers for hundreds of years. The modern shrine sits high above the Kumano River for good reason. In 1889 the river broke its banks destroying the original shrine, except for the 30 metre high stone gates which can still be seen today.

Pilgrims once rafted down the mighty Kumano River and modern day travellers can follow in their wake by boating, rafting and kayaking along the world’s only UNESCO World Heritage listed river pilgrimage route.

The scared temple precinct of Mount Koya, the home of esoteric Buddhism, is located on a plateau almost 900 metres above sea level. The deeply forested terrain is dotted with hundreds of temples and temple lodgings. Staying at these lodgings provides an insight into the daily life of a monastery and the chance to sample beautifully prepared vegetarian shojin ryori (temple food) traditionally eaten by pilgrims because of its cleansing properties. Visitors can also learn calligraphy from a Buddhist monk or attend morning services at the temple.

Another must-see is Nachi Shrine, located at the base of the spectacular Nachi Waterfall, the tallest waterfall in Japan.

The southern part of Wakayama prefecture faces the ocean and the coastal town of Shirahama not only boasts one of the most beautiful beaches in Western Japan, but is also one of the oldest hot spring resorts in the country. When not enjoying glass bottom boat rides and visiting aquariums, visitors can sample delicious mandarins, persimmons and ume plums, for which the prefecture is famous, not to mention the local seafood.

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NARA The Many faces of Nara

A Walk in the Park

Narazuke and other Culinary Delights

The Kumano Kodo links the famous Yoshino area in Nara Prefecture with Kumano via Mount Omine. The 170km trek, which has been used as a training ground for ascetic monks since the 7th century, is one of the most difficult and dangerous trails of the Kumano Kodo, but there many less strenuous activities to enjoy.

Yoshino Mountain features more than 30,000 cherry trees which form clouds of delicate pink blossoms in the spring. The area is also home to the famous Kinpusen-ji temple and the esoteric monks who train there.

Nara city, originally known as Heijo, was established as Japan’s first permanent capital in 710.

Nara’s Todaiji temple, constructed in 752, is home to a 15 metre high seated Buddha whose raised hand is as tall as a human being. As with many of Nara’s attractions, Todaiji is located in Nara Park, which is also home to over 1200 deer. In Japanese folklore deer were considered to be sacred and they are certainly still well treated, with many visitors feeding them on specially made rice crackers called ‘shika senbei’ or deer crackers.

In Nara, it is not only the deer which enjoy the culinary delights on offer. Visitors to Nara can try Narazuke, a dish made by pickling vegetables or fish in sake lees, a much more sophisticated affair than the vinegary pickles which most Australians have grown up with.

Other local delicacies include Kaki no hazushi or Nara sushi, neat little packages of rice topped with salmon or mackerel and wrapped in a persimmon leaf. The antibacterial properties of the leaf were an important preservative in the days before refrigeration.

©Richard Luan

©Richard Luan

E

Top left) In Nara, deer are traditionally seen as divine messengers. Centre left) Old Japan emerges from the area around the remnants of Heijo Palace.

Bottom left) The giant Buddha statue at Todaiji is worth a visit. Right) A walk through Yoshino while looking at the cherry blossoms is a must.

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MIE Ise Shrine and Amaterasu Omikami Ise Shrine in Mie Prefecture, one of the most sacred destinations in Japan, is linked with the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano via the Kumano Kodo. Ancient legends state that the Japanese Imperial family is descended from the Sun Goddess, Amaterasu Omikami, who is enshrined in the Inner Shrine or Naiku at Ise. In keeping with traditional beliefs in cycles of death and renewal, the shrine is rebuilt every twenty years, with 2013 marking the occasion when the deities are transferred from their old homes to the new ones.

The Wedded Rocks and other Marvels The sacred Meoto Iwa or the ‘Wedded Rocks’ on the coast near Futama are said to represent the Japanese creator spirits, Izanami and Izanagi. The rocks are joined by a sacred rope or ‘shimenawa’, examples of which can be seen at many Shinto shrines around Japan.

Iga Ueno, which is midway between Osaka and Nagoya, will satisfy both lovers of military and literary history. In addition to being the birth place of the famous poet, Matsuo Basho, Iga Ueno is home to a castle which boasts the highest stone walls in Japan.

Rice Cakes and Rare Beef

Top) The Grand Shrine at Ise. Bottom left) Watch the fascinating sunset of Meoto Iwa. Bottom centre) Akafuku Mochi (sticky rice cake) is the local Ise sweet. Bottom right) The nearby town of Toba, located 20 minutes away from Ise by train, is the birthplace of cultured pearls

A visit to Mie Prefecture is not complete without trying Akafuku mochi, a pounded rice cake with a wonderfully chewy consistency, which is beautifully complemented by sweet red bean paste.

While this delicacy is readily available throughout the prefecture, a visit to the Oharai Machi shopping precinct near the entrance to the Inner Shrine at Ise is highly recommended.

Mie prefecture is also noted for its Matsuzaka beef, which hails from cattle fattened on beer and massaged to improve the texture of the meat.

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Getting around

A quick guide to where, when and how long for domestic flights and train travel.

■International flights, the easy way to get to Japan From

Departure

JAL Daily QANTAS Daily

JL772 QF21

08:15 21:30

17:05 06:15

SYDNEY JAL Daily QANTAS Daily

JL771 QF22

19:50 20:30

06:35 07:05

Airlines

SYDNEY TOKYO TOKYO

Wakkanai

Flight No.

To

Day

Via Cairns

Arrival

Asahikawa Sapporo Niseko

*The flight schedule is correct as of April 19, 2013 and is subject to change.

JAL: www.jal.com.au Qantas Airways: www.qantas.com.au Jetstar Airways: www.jetstar.com

Hakodate

■Domestic flights from Tokyo (by JAL or ANA) To

Duration

To

Duration

Shin Chitose (Hokkaido)

1 hr 35 min.

Hiroshima

1 hr 25 min.

Aomori

1 hr 15 min.

Matsuyama (Ehime)

1 hr 30 min.

Komatsu (Ishikawa)

1 hr

Fukuoka

1 hr 50 min.

Kansai (Osaka)

1 hr 15 min.

Kagoshima

1 hr 50 min.

Naha (Okinawa)

2 hr 40 min.

Nankishirahama (Wakayama) 1 hr 15 min.

Kushiro

Shin Chitose Airport

Aomori Aomori Airport Akita

Hachinohe

Morioka

Shinjo Yamagata

Sendai

Niigata Nagaoka Noto

Hakuba

Kanazawa Komatsu Airport Hiroshima Airport

Hiroshima Hakata

Nagano Karuizawa

Itami Airport

Takayama Gifu Mt Fuji

Izumo Kobe

Kyoto

Takamatsu Tokushima Kochi Beppu

Nagasaki Kyushu Shinkansen Line

TOKYO Narita International Airport

Haneda Airport

(Fukuoka)

Fukuoka Airport

Fukushima

Echigo-Yuzawa

Kumamoto

Shin Yatsushiro

Yokohama Nagoya Chubu Airport

Nara Osaka

Nanki-Shirahama Airport Matsuyama Airport

Kansai International Airport

Kagoshima

Naha

Kagoshima Airport

Naha Airport

Japan's Major International Airports NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT A few domestic flights do leave from Narita, but most domestic flights leave from Tokyo's Haneda Airport (95min. from Narita by the Airport Limousine bus).

Travelling to and from Tokyo <Trains> Narita Airport has two key rail connections operating between central Tokyo Station and the Narita Airport terminals. JR East's Narita Express (N'EX) is the fastest option (60 min., ¥2,940). The Keisei Sky Liner is the best choice for travel to Nippori (36 min., ¥2,400). <Buses> Airport Limousine buses stop at most major hotels and certain landmarks on the way to central Tokyo (75 - 155 min., ¥3,000).

<Taxis> Taxis can be expensive depending on your destination. Central Tokyo costs approx. ¥15,000 to ¥24,000 by taxi.

KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Travelling to and from Osaka and Kyoto <Trains> The Haruka limited express service travels from Kansai Airport Station to Kyoto Station

©Kansai International Airport Co.,Ltd / ©JNTO

(75 - 95 min., ¥3,280), Shin-Osaka Station (50 -70min., ¥2,770) and Tennoji Station (32 - 50 min., ¥2,170) .

The Kansai Airport Rapid travels to Osaka Station (65 min., ¥1,160).

Nankai Electric Railway operates the fast Rapi:tα train (34min., ¥1,390) from Namba to Kansai Airport Station at 7am, 8am and 9am only on weekdays. <Buses> Buses travel to Osaka Station (60 min., ¥1,500); Kyoto Station (90 min., ¥2,500); Namba Station (50 min., ¥1,000). <Taxis> ¥18,000 to Shin-Osaka Station; ¥16,000 to Namba Station; ¥32,000 to Kyoto Station.

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Using the Public Transport System Japan has an extremely efficient public transportation system. Trains and buses service a large network, especially in metropolitan areas and between cities, and are clean and punctual. Transport notices and signs are usually given in English as well as Japanese.

■ Estimated Shinkansen travel times JR Shinkansen (minutes from Tokyo)

100 NAGANO

200

Shin-Aomori

180

HACHINOHE

240

AKITA

220

SHINJO

130 NIIGATA

Travel sweeter with N'EX and Suica

JR (Tokyo Station)

Trains Most trains and train lines in Japan are owned by Japan Railways (JR). However, others are owned by a number of private companies, often sharing mutual tracks.

The urban train systems comprise of shinkansen (bullet trains), limited express, express, rapid and local trains. Many are owned by separate companies, so it can be a little confusing. It's a good idea to carry a route map (called rosenzu) with you at all times. You can pick one up from most train stations.

All individual tickets (including shinkansen, private railways and subways) can be purchased from vending machines or ticket offices. Individual ticket costs will be shown on the railway line map next to your destination station. Once you have checked the price, you can buy your ticket from one of the nearby vending machines. Children aged six to 11 pay half price and children under six travel free. Trains owned by different companies require different fares, so prepaid integrated-circuit (IC) cards such as Pasmo and Suica, are a useful way to simplify the system (see box). Passengers tend to form queues while waiting for the next train.

Buses Many bus routes link train stations and residential areas. Each stop is announced and displayed on an electric signboard on approach. Push the button to alert the bus driver when you wish to alight.

Tickets are purchased upon entering the bus, or when getting off, depending on the bus company and the bus route. Fares can be pre-paid or you can use cash or integrated-circuit cards (Suica or Pasmo) on the bus. *It is considered bad manners to use a mobile phone in trains and buses, so it is best left switched off in those areas.

NAGOYA

110

KYOTO

140

SHIN-OSAKA

160

JR Kyushu Shinkansen

HAKATA

430

320

KAGOSHIMA-CHUO

Foreigners travelling on the JR East line from Narita Station to the greater Tokyo or Yokohama regions can pick up a Suica and N'EX combination deal for only ¥3500 (economy) or ¥5000 (first class).

That's a saving of over ¥1400! Also, the round-trip package is priced at ¥5500 (economy) or ¥8000 (first class).

SHIN YATSUHIRO

Suica and Pasmo Suica and Pasmo are rechargeable, prepaid integratedcircuit cards that can be used for all buses and trains (except shinkansen), regardless of the operating company. Previously, only certain IC cards could be used in certain regions, but as of 23 March 2013, the ten IC cards including suica and pasmo can all be used on

public transport across Japan.

Suica/Pasmo cards can be purchased and recharged at rail vending machines and ticket counters in Tokyo. The initial cost consists of a small refundable deposit plus a charge amount of ¥1500 (for Suica) or between ¥500 and ¥9500 (for Pasmo).

When riding the train, touch the card to the card reader when you pass through the station's ticket barrier. The applicable fare will be automatically deducted at the ticket gate at your destination. When riding the bus, touch the card to the reader when you board. If you are required to pay when alighting, make sure you touch your card to the reader when you get on and again when you get off for the appropriate fare to be deducted.

THE JAPAN RAIL (JR) PASS

JR EAST PASS

The JR pass allows unlimited travel on JRowned trains, buses and ferries for periods of 7, 14 or 21 days. JR passes are available outside of Japan (either online or through your travel agent) before your visit. See www.japanrailpass.net for more information.

The JR East Pass provides tourists with unlimited travel on JR trains (including shinkansen and limited express trains) on 72 lines in the Kanto, Koshinetsu and Tohoku regions. Passes are available for five or 10 consecutive days or four flexible days within one month.

■JR East Pass Prices

■Japan Rail Pass Prices for Adult Economy 7 days 14 days 21 days

28,300 yen 45,100 yen 57,700 yen

Green (First class) 37,800 yen 61,200 yen 79,600 yen

1AUD=102.683JPY (as at 19 April 2013) *Children aged 6-11 years travel at half price.

Economy

Green (First class)

Adult Youth Adult (26 and over) (age 12-25) (12 and over) 5 days 10 days

20,000 yen 16,000 Yen 28,000 yen 32,000 yen 25,000 Yen 44,800 yen

Flexible 4-day

20,000 yen 16,000 yen 28,000 yen

*Children aged 6-11 years travel at half price.

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©JNTO

Handy tips and useful information to know before travelling to Japan.

Visas

Visitors to Japan from Australia do not require a visa for stays of up to 90 days.

Under Japan's New Immigration Procedures, all visitors must present their passport upon arrival and agree to be fingerprinted and photographed. Immigration may also ask a few quick questions.

See http://www.immi-moj.go.jp/english/ for more information.

Money and costs

The Japanese currency unit is the Yen (¥). Coins are available in units of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100 and 500 yen. Notes are available in 1000, 2000, 5000 and 10,000 yen.

ATMs that accept Cirrus, MasterCard, Visa, American Express, PLUS and JCB can be found at post offices, major convenience stores and many banks. Cash payments are still more popular than credit cards, especially in smaller stores.

Tipping

Tipping and bartering are not expected in Japan.

Internet

Internet cafes are readily accessible in Japan, especially in the cities. Although bigname chain stores like Global Gossip are prevalent, the most popular internet cafes in Japan are Manga cafes, which also provide comics, magazines and video games.

You pay time increments in either a private booth or a communal seating area. Special time-packages are available and there is even the option of an overnight stay on a reclining seat in a private booth.

Mobile phones

Currently, only some 3G models work in Japan that use the 2100 MHz band. With some global roaming plans from Australian service providers you can use your

Public phones

Green or grey public phones can be found everywhere in Japan.

They accept ¥10 and ¥100 coins, and telephone cards that can be purchased from kiosks and news agencies. You can make international calls from grey phones displaying the "international" sign.

■ Postage Domestic Mail to Mail Australia

EMS

Postcard

50 yen

70 yen

---

Standard Letter up to 25g

80 yen

110 yen

1200 yen

Standard Letter up to 50g

90 yen

190 yen

1200 yen

---

7

3

Number of delivery days

To call Australia

letter post (letters, aerogrammes and postcards); parcel post; and EMS (Express Mail Service). EMS takes two to four days to reach Australia. Airmail or letter post and parcel post takes three to six days and sea mail takes one to three months. Parcels must be under 20 kg. Most post offices are open 9am to 5pm on weekdays. www.post.japanpost.jp/english

Peak travel seasons

Train, bus and flight timetables may change during the following peak travel seasons: New Year (December 27 to January 3 and adjacent weekends), Golden Week (April 29 to May 5 and adjacent weekends), Bon Festival (the week surrounding August 15).

Water

All tap water in Japan is safe to drink.

Emergencies

For police assistance call 110 (free call from public phones if you press the red button) or look for the nearest "Koban" (police kiosk) marked with a red pentagonal light. For the fire department or an ambulance call 119.

©JNTO

own phone to send and receive calls and texts and to access broadband internet.

Alternatively, you can rent a SIM card if it works in Japan to use with your own phone, or a pre-paid phone from such service providers as Softbank and Mobal Narita at Narita Airport Terminal 1. Renting a portable Wi-Fi in Australia to use in Japan is also an option worth considering. Portable Wi-Fi is a device that allows multiple machines including laptops, tablets and smartphones to gain internet access wherever you are within the carrier service area.

Information centres

The Visit Japan Information Network consists of 250 information services across the country. Usually located near major train stations and town centres, they will provide information on local tourist sites.

Japan has three international call providers. Dial one of their access numbers (0033, 001, or 0061) + 010 + country code (61) + area code (without the zero) + personal number.

Postal service

International mail can be classified into

©JNTO

Travel Tips

Average temperature Highs Sapporo Lows Highs Sendai Lows Highs Tokyo Lows Highs Yokkaichi Lows Highs Osaka Lows Highs Fukuoka Lows

Jan -1.6 -7.6 3.8 -2.6 8.3 1.8 8.6 -0.3 8.9 2.7 9.4 3.7

Feb -1.3 -7.8 4.2 -3.1 9.1 2.2 8.5 -0.4 8.4 2.0 8.9 2.9

Mar 3.4 -3.1 9.0 0.7 12.5 5.3 12.7 2.8 12.9 5.5 14.4 7.6

Apr 11.5 3.4 14.2 6.3 18.5 11.0 18.6 8.1 20.4 10.9 21.0 12.1

May 17.7 9.8 20.3 12.3 23.6 16.1 23.0 12.5 24.6 15.6 24.6 16.9

Jun 22.1 13.5 22.2 15.5 24.8 18.6 24.9 17.4 27.4 19.8 26.9 20.6

Jul 26.4 18.2 26.6 20.0 30.1 23.5 29.8 22.4 32.0 24.8 31.9 25.2

Aug 27.2 20.4 30.8 23.4 33.1 26.3 31.5 24.1 34.3 25.8 33.6 26.0

Source: Japan Meteorological Agency, www.jma.go.jp/jma/indexe.html

Sep 26.5 19.0 28.0 20.9 29.8 23.3 28.7 20.5 30.7 22.7 28.4 21.6

Oct 17.0 9.0 21.1 12.5 23.0 16.2 23.0 12.5 23.9 15.5 23.8 15.3

Nov 8.2 3.0 13.5 6.2 16.3 9.6 15.4 5.6 15.9 9.3 16.5 9.5

Dec 0.4 -5.4 6.8 0.0 11.2 3.8 9.7 0.1 10.1 3.3 11.0 4.4

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Living Learn all about the food, drinks and lifestyle that are making Japan a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; place to visit. Check out this snapshot of culture, and maybe learn a thing or two about the Japanese language along the way.

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food Japanese food, worldwide appeal Text: Patrick Budmar

J

apan as a nation may not be much larger than the state of California in the US, but the country’s dense population spread out over a diverse geography has given life to a unique culinary experience. In fact, as time passed certain types of food become associated with a different prefecture. That is why traditional Kyoto is famous for its soba (buckwheat noodles), Kamakura is known for its hato sabure (dove cookies), and in Osaka you can find okonomiyaki (Japanese style pancake). As this selection demonstrates, unique foods spanning the traditional to the modern can all be found in Japan.

Fresh sashimi is eaten throughout Japan.

The Classic Beer of Japan’s Last Frontier Hailing in the snowy lands of Japan’s northernmost island of Hokkaido, Sapporo Premium Beer has a rich history dating back almost 150 years.

Sapporo beer was first brewed in 1876 by a German-trained Japanese brew master named Seibei Nakagawa. Bringing his passion for his craft back to Japan by using authentic brewing techniques and quality local ingredients, Seibei developed a perfectly balanced golden lager. As a former frontier town over a thousand miles north of the nation’s capital Tokyo, Sapporo became the home of Japan’s oldest brewery. The iconic gold star reflects the pioneering spirit of Sapporo and its famous brewer.

Sapporo, now the largest city in Hokkaido and its capital, is best visited during February to experience the splendour and grandeur of the Sapporo Snow Festival. Every winter, over two million people from all over the globe come to Sapporo to see the intricately carved snow statues

and ice sculptures lining Odori Park, the main street in Susukino and the grounds surrounding Tsudome Dome. For seven days these statues and sculptures turn Sapporo into a winter dreamland of crystal-like ice and snow.

To this day the city still celebrates the vibrant history of its oldest brand.

Enjoy some retail therapy in the Sapporo Factory, a shopping centre built within the walls of the original brewery or take in the story of the beer’s beginnings in the nearby Sapporo Beer Museum built within a historic malting factory. When you’re done, why not head next door to the Sapporo Beer Garden for a smooth Sapporo beer and a taste of the city’s other local specialty, the Genghis Khan Lamb BBQ. Brewed with intrinsic Japanese

attention to detail, the slow cool fermentation of Sapporo Premium Beer balances delicate hops and esters with a full malt character. This, combined with authentic brewing techniques and quality ingredients, produces a crisp and refreshing lager beer enjoyed the world over.

You can find Sapporo Premium Beer throughout Australia in all good liquor retailers and Japanese restaurants.

A snow sculpture of the Tsuruga Castle in Aizu at Sapporo Snow Festival

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Left: Similarly to sushi restaurants, there are shops that deal exclusively with only eels. Top: The taste of natural tofu can be enjoyed at a speciality tofu store Bottom: Unlike the Okonomiyaki from Osaka, the one from Hiroshima has Yaki-Soba.

With no shortage of customers looking for a bite to eat, particularly in metropolitan cities such as Tokyo and Osaka, numerous restaurants have branched out to focus on a particular speciality. Sushi and sashimi restaurants can be found in popular parts of town at varying prices, but people in the West are used to these foods for their variety. For those who want an entire culinary experience dedicated to fugu (blowfish), shabu-shabu (meat hotpot), or unagi (eel), Japan will likely have a restaurant that deals exclusively with that food. The specialisation is entirely dependant on the chef, typically is an expert in that type of cuisine and has the preparation skills to meet the needs of the unique menu.

Some foods that may be taken for granted in the West, such as tofu, are often elevated to a whole new level through this level of specialisation. Tokyo Shiba Tofuya-Ukai in Tokyo is an example of

this. The traditional means of preparing and serving tofu means the everyday product is cast in a completely new light.

Located at the base of Tokyo Tower and surrounded by trees that block out the outside world, the restaurant is housed in a traditional Japanese building and is run by skilled staff well versed in the ways of omotenashi (customer service). Though, one does not need to go all the way to Japan to experience omotenashi, as Sydneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Sake restaurant in The Rocks provides a glimpse of what it is like to be at the centre of the culinary experience.

In addition to good food, Japan has a long history and affinity with alcohol. The world has already become familiar with Japanese sake to the point where it has more or less become a household word, yet the country is also the home to many types of beer. Whether it is Asahi, Kirin or Sapporo, there is no shortage of local brew to enjoy in Japan. Bars and clubs

have gained a foothold in the country in recent years, though the most common way to enjoy alcohol is at izakaya (Japanese style bars). Like restaurants, the establishments run the gamut from the affordable to the upscale, catering to any audience on a particular night. Izakaya do not only serve alcohol, but a wide variety of snacks to go along with the drinks, with edamame (soy beans) being a particular favourite for locals.

At the upper end of the scale, an izakaya such as Gonpachi in Tokyo is famous among locals as well as overseas visitors.

The drinks and menu have made Gonpachi a mainstay in the posh Roppongi area, and it gained further recognition by being featured in Quentin Tarantinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2003 film, Kill Bill Vol. 1. Smaller and family owned izakaya can provide a similar experience at a reduced scale, and can often be found just about anywhere. In fact, they are not out of place in a residential area

7923DRAG

Japanese Noodle Bar Dragon Boy Japanese Noodle Bar is quickly becoming a destination for hungry but value conscious city workers. After opening in August 2012, Dragon Boy has been exceeding customers' expectations on every level.

We use authentic Sanuki Udon noodles, impor ted from Japan's most famous Udon Province.

Dragon Boy's valued Dashi soup is combined with our noodles to create the finest fusion of flavours.

From .90

$3

Opening hours Open 7 days 11:30am - 10:00pm (last orders - 9:30pm) Closed on Holidays Contact details Address: World Square Arcade Shopping Centre, Shop 17, 123 Liverpool Street, Sydney, NSW 2000 Tel: 02-9264-8880 Email: Info@dragonboy.com.au Facebook: www.facebook.com/dragonboynoodlebar We b : d r a g o n b o y. c o m . a u

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From left (clockwise): Edamame is the staple of any izakaya / Talking to the chef is one of the charms of an izakaya / The retro exterior of an izakaya / The chef’s skills can be observed from across the counter / There are various types of ramen all over Japan that are unique to certain locations.

or neighbourhoods. Those looking for a more standardised experience can go to chains such as Domadoma, Warawara and Watami, where drinks and snacks are easily ordered from a touch screen. Yebisu in Sydney’s CBD offers this very experience, allowing locals to drink the night away with edamame on the table.

Japanese who want to experience the drinking culture of the West can find pubs and bars often as readily as an izakaya.

International areas such as Roppongi in Tokyo and Amemura in Osaka provide a host of drinking venues that channel a British, American or Australian vibe. The Rose and Crown in Tokyo’s Yurakucho district, known for its imported beer and fish and chips, is a particular favourite among locals and expats. A younger audience is more likely to check out the Hub chain of British themed pubs or American flavoured TGI Friday’s for a quick drink and some snacks after a busy day at work.

Western alcohol is not the only beverage to gain foothold in Japan, with the tradition of drinking tea now being complemented by coffee. The enticing aroma and taste of coffee has enabled it to quickly and widely grow in popularity, to the point that a Starbucks can be found just about anywhere in Japan. Local chains such as Excelsior, Tully’s and Doutor have joined in on the craze to provide their own interpretation of the cafe experience. Areas such as Daikanyama and Sangenjaya in Tokyo have gained a reputation among cafe connoisseurs for their unique setting and method of preparing the beverage.

Japan is also famous for spinning the concept in a memorable way with maid cafes in Tokyo’s Akihabara district, where the staff at establishments such as @Home are dressed as French maids.

Japan, in particularly Tokyo, has an image of being expensive, though the reality is that cheap yet tasty food is plentiful and

easy to find. Family restaurant such as Jonathan’s and Denny’s may have English names but they serve Japanese influenced food designed not to break the bank, making them popular among students. The Ootoya chain is popular for its “home style” menu that hovers between 600 to 1000 yen for a typical teishoku (meal set), and there is no shortage of beef bowl and udon (wheat flour noodles) places such as Yoshinoya to grab something to eat for 500 yen or less.

This cheap yet tasty approach to meals has made Mappen and Oiden in Sydney’s CBD very popular among locals, not to mention visitors from Japan who want to have a taste of home while in Australia.

Japan may be the source of the recognisable and delicious food that we have all come to appreciate, but this growing popularity has meant that tasty sushi, sake and edamame can be enjoyed in an overseas city like Sydney without needing to step on an airplane.

0000NICH

Established 1977

Australia’s most highly regarded Japanese Publisher

DARUMA JAPANESE RESTAURANT s are k n i r All d % off!!

50 imi

sash Fresh

Nichigo Press National Edition

Nichigo Press Queensland Edition

Nichigo Press Move

Nichigo Let's Go

Nichigo Press Online (nichigopress.jp)

Soft drinks are not included in this promotion (beer, sake, shochu and wine are included)

Tel: (02)9281-2889 1st Floor, Prince Centre, 8 Quay St., Haymarket NSW

10:30am-9:00pm Opening Mon-Thu: Fri: 10:30am-9:30pm Hours Sat: 11:30am-9:30pm Sun: 11:30am-8:00pm Public Holidays: Closed

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New store TOPIC

Just the place you've been waiting for!

A chic new izakaya in Sydney’s CBD

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IZAKAYA Yebisu Looking for a place to enjoy a few drinks after work? Or maybe somewhere to wind up your evening after dinner or a party when you're in search of just that little something more? A place where both the food and drink are outstanding? Then IZAKAYA Yebisu is the place for you, and one you're guaranteed to come to over and over again. One of the many new stores to have opened at Regent Place in Sydney's CBD, IZAKAYA Yebisu is just the place you've been waiting for.

A relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere for a night out Its string of neon lights transports you to the alleyways of downtown Tokyo, and its retro feel is one of a kind - a touch of old Japan. IZAKAYA Yebisu's design, the work of an Australian designer who has spent many years living in Japan and has a self-professed love affair with all things Japanese, offers an immediately familiar feel to anyone who has ever stepped foot in the country.

More than 30 different types of Japanese sake and shochu line the walls of the restaurant, each of which can be ordered by the glass as shots. A cart called the SAKE-WAGON provides an added touch of entertainment, moving from table to table and allowing you to select the sake of your choice and watch as your glass is filled until it overflows.

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Sake is not the only option on the menu, however. Japanese single malt whiskey, best known by the brand Yamazaki, along with scotch and bourbon, are available for those looking to take things a little more slowly. A selection of wines can be ordered as well.

From bar seats to table seats and standing space, IZAKAYA Yebisu is the perfect place for a light drink, an evening out with that special someone or for a big night out with your friends.

Whatever the occasion, IZAKAYA Yebisu's relaxed atmosphere and old-time touch of nostalgia offers the right location for your evening, no matter how you choose to spend it.

The right food for the right drink Run by Sushi Samurai of Sydney's Neutral Bay markets, IZAKAYA Yebisu sports a menu that speaks of Sushi Samurai's considerable experi-

dney's CBD! pan Village in Sy

ence, presenting a selection of the perfect food to accompany your drink of choice.

More than 200 dishes are on offer, from shishkebabs of chicken and spring onion, sweet and sour pork, pork belly and pork tongue to the flavoursome okonomiyaki and other teppanyaki favourites, sushi and sashimi, seafood dishes such as chawan mushi and fish cooked in soy sauce, and tofu dishes such as grilled tofu with miso and hand-made tofu steaks.

Head chef Tsushima's recommendation is the giblet stew. Softened by a long turn in the pot, the meat in this exquisite dish simply melts in your mouth. The tom yam roll, a sushi roll with fried prawn and a hint of tom yam paste, also delivers a fresh new taste.

IZAKAYA Yebisu is open at lunchtime from midday until 3PM, and dinner from 5PM until 11PM (11:30PM on Fridays and Saturdays). With all this on the menu, you'll be sure to come again.

Chanoma Cafe

Arrival of the Ja

居酒屋 開店！

George St Gloria Jeans is in the entrance TENKOMORI

Yebisu The Japan Village Use escalator in the Kent St. entrance

Kent St

Liverpool St

Bathurst St

The Japan Village is a new and thriving appearance at Regent Place close to the Sydney Town Hall. In addition to IZAKAYA Yebisu, other stores include the self-service ramen noodle shop TENKOMORI, which sports an impressive array of toppings for a very affordable price, and the Chanoma Cafe with its green tea and traditional Japanese sweets for those looking to satisfy their sweet tooth with something a little different. One stop is all it takes to feel as if you've arrived in the country itself.

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1 Retro neon signs 2 An Intimate interior 3 Simmered Wagyu Beef Giblets 4 Tom Yum Goong Roll 5 Assorted Yakitori 6 Assorted Sashimi 7 A variety of sake

IZAKAYA Yebisu

Ground Floor, Regent Place, 501 George St., Sydney NSW Tel: (02)9266-0301 Hours: Lunch everyday 12PM - 3PM, Dinner 5PM - 11PM (11:30PM on Fridays and Saturdays)

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JSTYLE SPECIAL EDITION 2013/14

Living - Sake

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Sake from the

Sake Enjoy Japan’s iconic drink on any occasion!

Text: Christopher Hall

W

ith an unmatched tradition dating back some 2,000 years, sake is one of Japan’s most enduring products. Its unique qualities have been enjoyed throughout Japan for centuries but have only recently begun to attract international attention. On top of its newfound fame as a fashionable drink in both the United States and France, in 2007 in England a special sake category was created in a wine competition, further boosting its profile and popularity.

A perfect match for all cuisine Like beer and wine, sake ingredients are fermented to produce alcohol.

The drink can be enjoyed either hot or cold, with a temperature range from 5oC to 55oC being suitable for drinking. This “Magic water” also combines amazingly well with almost any kind of cuisine, making it the perfect accompaniment. For example, when drunk with fish or shellfish, sake works to amply the natural flavours while neutralising any fishy odours. Unlike many other alcoholic drinks, sake harmonises nicely with fresh fruit and also blends superbly with miso, soy sauce and most soup dishes.

The 1,700 sake breweries spread throughout Japan are known for creating sake with a wide variety of flavours. Sake flavour depends on the quality of the two main ingredients: a special type of rice and water. Typically, water makes up 80% of a brew. The brewing process itself also plays an integral role in determining the flavour of the sake.

Sake production methods Sake can broadly be divided into the three categories of Ginjo-shu,

Honjozo-shu and Junmai-shu with the classification of the sake dependant on the degree of polishing of the rice. The polishing of the rice is based on a percentage level.

For example, if the rice is polished to 60%, it means 40% of the outer part of the brown rice has been removed. Rice polished as close to the core of the grain as possible creates a consistently clean and clear taste.

Ginjo-shu sake uses white rice polished to less than 60%, koji yeast, water and brewer’s alcohol.

The Ginjo brewing method is then employed to produce sake with a nice, fruity aroma and clean taste.

Honjozo-shu uses the same ingredients as Ginjo-shu but the rice is polished up to 70% to give an appealing flavour of sake that is clean and very well priced.

Unlike Ginjo-shu and Honjozo-shu, Junmai-shu places no limitations on the amount of rice polishing and also does not use brewer’s alcohol as an ingredient. This gives the sake a true rice flavour with acidic characteristics.

The three main sake types can also be split further into the subcategories of Daiginjo-shu, Junmai daiginjo-shu and Junmai ginjo-shu.

The ranges of Mt. Hakkai form a string of craggy peaks that run through Minami Uonuma City of Niigata Prefecture. At an average height of 1,778m at their highest peaks, the mountains have long been worshipped as one of Japan’s sacred sites. The Uonuma basin that spreads out from their foothills is covered in the wintertime with a heavy snow so deep, you can not see over the top of the snowbanks.

Japan’s regional varieties of sake, collectively known by the term jizake, are a product of the environment and customs of the region in which they are produced, and each region in Japan is the proud owner of its own unique flavor. The sake of Niigata and Uonuma City in particular is known for its sharp flavor and almost complete lack of any overpowering notes,made possible by the incredibly soft water that flows down from Mt. Hakkai and the constant low temperatures found in Japan’s snowiest regions.

Brewers often describe the land as if it had been gifted by the gods purely for the production of sake.

Hakkaisan sake is one of Niigata’s most

Izakaya Masuya

A Japanese restaurant in Sydney’s CBD and specialist spot for junmaishu sake, Izakaya Masuya is one location where you can enjoy a special brand of Hakkai Brewery’s Hakkaisan sake that is made especially for the overseas market. The bright blue bottle is decorated with a label that shows a likeness of the Mt. Hakkai ranges, and its contents has a clear look and a smooth taste. The sake’s characteristic soft aroma and junmaishu taste have gained it high regard with sake fans the world over.

Address: Ground Floor, 12-14 O'connell St., Sydney NSW Tel: (02)9233-8181 Mon - Sat 12PM - 2PM, 6PM - Late

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sacred peaks of Mt. Hakkai famous local sake varieties from the city of Minami Uonuma, produced by Hakkai Brewery Co., Ltd. Ever since its establishment in 1922, this brewery has striven to produce only the finest sake. Taking the greatest care in selecting ingredients, no expense is spared in the methods and facilities used in production, with the aim of delivering the highest quality sake to as broad an audience as possible. To achieve this aim, Hakkai Brewery ensures that the rice malt used to create all its sake, not just the higher-grade daiginjoshu and junmai daiginjoshu varieties, is prepared entirely by hand. While the rice malt itself is undoubtedly a highly important element of sake that greatly influences its end taste and overall quality, the brewers of Hakkai Brewery believe that only rice malt that has been prepared by hand is fit to meet their exacting standards.

Needless to say, producing the best possible sake means using the best possible ingredients. In this case, that means water and rice. The water used in brewing Hakkaisan is a clear water known as the water of the lightning god Raiden-sama that runs

Hakkaisan

八海山

from the peaks of Mt. Hakkai and is used not only as brewing water, but in all stages of the brewing process. The rice, too, is taken from the local gohyakumangoku and yam adanishiki varieties that are highly suited to sake production, another of Hakkai Breweries efforts towards promoting local production and local consumption.

These carefully selected ingredients are then combined using traditional methods that consist of countless steps to produce a sake of the highest quality that is humanly possible.

The culmination of these efforts to create the best possible product with only the greatest ingredients is a sake that is free of overpowering flavors, as well as a palate that is perfectly balanced and a flavor and aroma that is clear. The sake’s taste is strong enough to let it stand on its own, yet subtle enough to make it the perfect partner for any meal, with a taste that is fresh and new no matter how many times you have tasted it before. Hakkaisan has a unique taste that lingers not only on your palate, but also in your memory. http://www.hakkaisan.com

Tokubetsu Junmai

Jyunmai Ginjyo

Honjoizo

Outlets for Hakkaisan sake and related goods Uonuma no Sato

Sennen Koujiya

A multi-purpose facility operated by the Hakkai Brewery, Uonuma no Sato includes stores for soba noodles and Japanese sweets throughout the peaceful countryside of Minami Uonuma City.

Amongst the foothills of Mt. Hakkai, a mini library with a collection of books on sake and food can be found, as well as places to take a rest. Here visitors can purchase Hakkaisan sake, along with a variety of other local specialties from the Uonuma region.

What’s more, summer 2013 is set to bring a new addition in the form of the largest snow room in all of Japan. This enormous freezer with its low temperature, humidity and dim lighting all year round, afforded by over 1000 tons of snow, is perfect for storing not only sake but also carrots, potatoes and other root vegetables. The snow room will host a shop for food under the theme of rice, rice malt and fermentation called Snow Room - Sennen Koujiya, with a shop called Okatte that handles kitchen goods. The snow room’s beautiful decorations representing all of the four seasons are sure to evoke nostalgic memories, allowing visitors to sample what many characterise as the true face of the Uonuma region.

Sennen Koujiya is Uonuma’s brand of food and culture produced by the Hakkai Brewery. In addition to its head store in Niigata and the snow room, branches can also be found in Tokyo’s Azabujuban and Kagurazaka. Not only do they offer carefully selected traditional food and ingredients from the Uonuma region, the stores also stock original foodstuffs created by Sennen Koujiya and numerous other popular items. The meticulously produced rice malt created by the brewers of Hakkai Brewery, as well as other select items such as salted rice malt, are a hit with customers.

415-23 Nagamori Minami-Uonuma City, Niigata Tel: 81-(0)25-775-2975 Trading hours may vary depending on stores

Head store 627-8 Nagamori Minamiuonuma-city Niigata Tel: 81-(0)25-775-2604 7 Days 9AM - 6PM / Azabujuban 1-6-7 Azabujuban, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 81-(0)3-57723930 7 Days 11AM - 8PM / Kagurazaka 109 Porta Kagurazaka, 2-6-1 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Tel: 81-(0)3-5227-8130 7days 11AM - 8PM / Snow Room (set to open in summer 2013) 415-23 Nagamori MinamiUonuma City, Niigata

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JSTYLE SPECIAL EDITION 2013/14

Living - Trivia

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Sing until your heart’s content, but don’t hog the limelight!

Everyone loves karaoke, especially in Japan! Enjoy the luxury of sharing your own private Karaoke parlour with friends. Songbooks usually have a large selection of songs for you to enjoy, but remember not to hog it!

The polite thing to do is to choose a song, sing it and then enjoy everyone else’s superstar renditions.

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Business cards and bowing the right way to get results

Business cards (called “meishi”) are extremely important when meeting clients for the first time, but you can’t just hand them over as we do here in Australia. The polite way of doing this is to hold the business card with two hands while bowing (called “Ojigi”).

This will ensure you make a good first impression and sew the seeds for future success!

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Friends come first when enjoying a few drinks

In Japan when drinking with a guest, friend or work associate, it is customary to pour their drinks first and to refill their glass as soon as it is empty. Your guest will also do the same for you and it’s very common to share large bottles of beer (called “Bin Biiru”) or sake amongst a group of people. Plus remember to always say a big “Kampai” (cheers!) to kick the night off.

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Capsule hotels - cheap sleeps in small places

Customer service is everything - you are the king

Japan is known as a country with some of the warmest hospitality in the world. No matter whether you spend 100 yen ($1) in a convenience store or 10,000 yen ($100) in a top class restaurant, you will always be greeted with a loud “Irrashaimase” (“welcome”) and given impeccable service. Hospitality is built around the notion that customers should be treated with the highest respect.

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Shoes are for the outside world, so leave them at the door

Cleanliness is paramount in Japan, so when entering a Japanese house it is customary to remove your shoes in the area known as the ‘Genkan’ (foyer area). There will usually be a small step where you can then change into the slippers provided to be worn inside the house. Japanese feet are generally smaller in size so you may find the slippers don’t quite fit but that’s half the fun!

Space is at a premium in Japan, especially in the major cities. It makes sense that capsule hotels (kapuseru hoteru) were developed in large cities for a cheap night’s sleep. The capsules generally measure no more 2m by 1m, but provide ample room to crash in the heart of the metropolis. Prices can be as cheap as 2,000 yen to 4,000 yen a night ($20 - $40) so if you don’t mind small spaces and want to try something unique to Japan, why not give one a go?

Text: Christopher Hall

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Japan you might not know about 07

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Enjoying nature’s gift to Japan, the onsen (hot spring)

Japan is a land of volcanoes and constant seismic activity, with thousands of natural hot springs (called “onsen”) spread throughout the country. The feeling of soaking your bones after a hard day’s skiing or sightseeing can’t be beaten, but there are a few points to remember. First, before entering the men’s (男) or women’s (女) baths, make sure you use the small towel provided and do not wear any swim wear. Then ensure you wash thoroughly from head to toe. When at last you let out that first ‘ahhhhh’ and slip into the spring water, place your small towel either on your head or on the side but not in the water. Enjoy!

Unlike in the western world where making noise while eating is frowned upon, slurping while eating soba and ramen noodles is very much encouraged. In fact, it actually shows appreciation and enjoyment! So next time you order a bowl, why not join in the chorus of slurping and enjoy your meal in true Japanese style. Plus if you really enjoyed them, try saying “Gochisou sama deshita” (thank you for the delicious meal) when you have finished!

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©JNTO

Slurp and enjoy - the art of eating noodles

The Japanese toilet - exactly what can’t it do?

The land of the rising sun is at the forefront of technology, with some of the craziest and most unique inventions known to mankind, but they all have a purpose including the multi-buttoned Japanese toilet. Forget your standard half flush / full flush option. In Japan, you can also choose the temperature of the toilet seat, the power and style of the cleansing water and even whether you would like accompanying music (Mozart anyone?). There are pictures explaining what most things do but if you ever need help, just ask out loud ‘Douyatte nagashimasu ka’ (how do I flush)?

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Tokyo Disneyland celebrates 30 years

Japanese love animation and western pop culture, so it’s easy to see why 30 years ago in 1983 Disney decided to open its first international theme park in Tokyo. Every day thousands of Japanese and tourists alike flock to the park to enjoy all the attractions and fun that only Disneyland can offer. So why not spend a day or two exploring when you’re next in Tokyo?

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Events Calendar 2013-14 May

July

Shikinen Sengu Ceremony @ Izumo Shrine

Sumida River Fireworks July 1-31 The Sumida River, between Ryogoku and Asakusa in Tokyo, is one of the oldest and most famous fireworks displays in Japan. Over 20,000 fireworks are set off on this occasion, promising a spectacular display. It’s estimated that around 950,000 visitors come every year to see the fireworks!

May 12- June 6 The Shikinen Sengu ceremony is a symbolic dismantling and rebuilding of a shrine that takes place only once every twenty years.

In 2013, the largest shrines in Japan - Izumo Grand Shrine (Shimane Prefecture) and Ise Grand Shrine (Mie Prefecture, during October 2013) will play host to the Shikinen Sengu ceremony. Izumo Grand Shrine will be open to the public during the festivities. Noh theatre (a classical Japanese musical drama), Sumo, live music and other events will be held throughout May and early June.

Gion Festival

*Details: www.sumidagawa-hanabi.com

July 1-31 Lasting for an entire month, Kyoto’s Gion Festival is one of the three biggest festivals in Japan. The festival showcases many traditional events, foods, clothing and activities, but the centrepiece of this religious festival is a large float parade taking place on July 17.

*Details: izumooyashiro-daisengu.jp (Japanese text only)

©Q.Sawami / ©JNTO

©JNTO

©JNTO

*Details: www.gionfestival.com

June

Supanova Pop Culture Expo June 21-23 (Sydney) This is a celebration of pop culture in all its forms - TV, film, books, comics, toys, gaming, animation, cosplay and more! A number of high-profile personalities are scheduled to appear, including actors, comic book illustrators, authors and voice over artists. Check the website regularly for ticket release dates, prices and schedule amendments. *Details: www.supanova.com.au

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August

September

Aomori Nebuta Festival

Cowra Cherry Blossom Festival

©Yasufumi Nishi / ©JNTO

August 2-7 A parade of lanterns shaped like samurai warriors is carried throughout the streets of the city of Aomori. Some can measure up to 8 metres high and 15 metres wide! This is the largest nebuta (float) festival in Japan, attracting a large number of tourists to view it each year. Since 1980, this festival has been designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property.

September 21-29 The Cowra Cherry Blossom (“sakura”) Festival is held every year. Enjoy pretty cherry blossoms as well as arts, crafts and cultural activities at the Cowra Japanese Garden. *Details: www.visitnsw.com/events/sakura-matsuricherry-blossom-festival

*Details: www.nebuta.or.jp

November

Japanese Film Festival Date TBD In 2013, Australia plays host to one of the largest Japanese film festivals worldwide.

This event has been presented by the Japan Foundation (Sydney) and will be travelling around the country, to Sydney, Melbourne, Canberra, Brisbane and Perth. A variety of films will be screened, showcasing both classics of Japanese cinema, as well as more modern offerings. *Details: www.japanesefilmfestival.net/index.html

October

SMASH!: Sydney Manga and Anime Show

Shurijo Castle Festival October 25-27& November 3

August 10 Now in its seventh year, Sydney’s leading Japanese pop culture convention is gearing up for its biggest year yet. Cosplay, workshops, games and guest panels are all scheduled to be on show. It’s a festival for everyone - not just anime and manga fans.

The Shurijo Castle Festiva in Okinawa Prefecturel features Ryukyu dance performances, as well as a recreation of a Ryukyu King Coronation Ceremony. The highlight is a spectacular Ryukyu Dynasty parade - over 1,000 participants in colourful and beautiful costumes parade down the famous Kokusai Street of Naha City.

*Details: www.smash.org.au

*Details: oki-park.jp/shurijo-park/english/index.html

43rd Tokyo Motor Show November 22- December 1 One of the top motor shows in the world returns! More than 840,000 people visited the last event in 2011, and 2013 looks to be a spectacular showcase for new cars, motorcycles and commercial vehicles. It’s a must for any auto enthusiast visiting Japan! *Details: www.tokyo-motorshow.com

Photographer: Kris Ezergailis

January

Awa-Odori ©Tokushima Prefecture / ©JNTO

August 12-15 This festival is the largest dance festival in Japan, dating back over 400 years. Over 1.3 million tourists visit the city of Tokushima every year to see the traditional dancers performing. *Details: www.city.tokushima.tokushima.jp/english/ awaodori.html

Hatsumode January 1 Hatsumode is the the first Shinto shrine visit of the Japanese New Year.

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JSTYLE SPECIAL EDITION 2013/14

Colourful Experiences in Japan Ba

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A Message from

Hiroshi Kuwamoto Executive Director of Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) Sydney Office

Japan’s Diverse Attractions As Executive Director of JNTO Sydney, I would like to introduce you to Japan’s many attractions.

Japan is full of fascinating places, but what is particularly interesting is the sheer number of experiences which cannot be gained in any other country.

Japan might be famous for cherry blossoms and ski resorts, but it is also home to many other attractions and experiences which appeal to Australians.

I could give many examples, but the one that instantly springs to mind is the culture of Japan, which along with its festivals and historical buildings, is many hundreds of years old. In contrast to this, modern shopping centres, pop culture and space age gadgets provide a totally different perspective on Japanese life.

For nature lovers, Japan offers many seasonal experiences, such as cherry blossoms in spring, festivals in summer, red maple trees in autumn and skiing in winter. Gourmands can experience the diversity of Japanese cuisine by having sushi at a real sushi restaurant, ordering snacks from roadside stalls or enjoying regional cuisine, such as handmade noodles.

Additionally, Japan has a highly efficient transport system and bullet trains, which make travelling between cities extremely easy. In Japanese culture there is also a highly developed tradition of hospitality, which ensures that your every need is met.

Australian tourists to Japan have placed a high value on diverse experiences such as these, with 84.4% of respondents to Japan Tourism Agency surveys stating that they were highly satisfied with their trip. Additionally, an extremely large proportion of those surveyed stated that they would like to visit Japan again.

It has been 10 years since the Japanese Tourism Agency began actively promoting Japan as a travel destination

overseas. To mark this event, we have created a promotional video which is designed to introduce the many facets of Japanese life to people in other countries. We would also like to take the opportunity to remind Japanese people living in Australia of Japan’s many attractions. We invite you all to view the video at http://www.visitjapan.jp.

I would also encourage you to visit JNTO Sydney’s home page at http://jnto.org.au and our Facebook page at http://www. facebook.com/VistJapanDownUnder where we provide Australians with upto-date information about events and experiences relating to Japan.

JNTO and Tourism Australia (TA) have designated 2013 as Australia-Japan Tourism Exchange Year. At JNTO we are using this as an opportunity to create campaigns and events which will deepen the relationship between the two countries.

To find out more about these events, visit our special site at http://www.jnto.org. au/2013/.

For many reasons, 2013 is a fabulous time for Australians to visit Japan. While the Australian dollar was equivalent to 80 At 634 meters, Tokyo Skytree is the tallest tower in the world and the new landmark of Tokyo.

yen in October 2012, towards the end of the year it rapidly strengthened against the yen and more recently surpassed the 100 yen mark. This is a factor which undoubtedly makes Japan more accessible than it has ever been before.

Although some people may be under the impression that Japan is an expensive place to visit, this is far from the case. For example, a delicious bento boxed lunch costs around AUD $5, while an all-day travel pass can be purchased for under AUD $20, making it a very affordable country to visit.

You will be interested to know that the number of Australians visiting Japan is actually increasing. Following the earthquakes of 2011, there was a steep decline in the number of Australian tourists visiting Japan, but this was relatively short lived. In January this year, the number of Australian visitors, many of whom were skiers, beat all previous records.

I would like to encourage readers of jStyle to take advantage of the current high value of the Australian dollar in order to visit Japan and enjoy some of the wonderful experiences awaiting you there.

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英 文ロゴの 組 み 合 わ せ